Pachanga On

Recipes and Tips for the After-Party

Article by LORIE A. WOODWARD Photos by KRISTIN PARMA

Dove, a versatile, dark meat with a flavor reminiscent of beef, is a small package with big flavor.

“Once you realize that game because of its leanness can't be cooked like other meats, then a world of possibilities opens up to you,” said Kristin Brooke Parma, TWA Membership Coordinator. “You can adapt almost any recipe to game and likely have folks enjoy it.”

In recent years, Parma's skills as a wild game cook have grown alongside her passion thanks to the mentorship of Chef Jesse Griffiths. Griffiths owns Austin's Dai Due and the New School of Traditional Cookery, where Parma also works as a guide. Griffiths, a Texas leader in the field to table movement, continues to lend his talents to TWA's popular Hunt to Table Dinners.

Like steak and most game, doves are at their best when cooked rare to medium rare. Because of their size, it is easy to overcook doves and turn them into “dove jerky.” While doves are delicious grilled and fried, Parma suggests searing them because the technique gives cooks the greatest control.

If the dove breasts have been refrigerated, first allow them to come to room temperature, and then season them with salt and pepper. Next, drop them in a sizzling pool of butter waiting in the bottom of a favorite cast iron pan. Sear 1-2 minutes on each side. Allow to rest.

“When I work with dove, I want the dove flavor to be the star in the show,” Parma said.

To that end, she eschews overpowering flavors and concentrates on complementary flavors that elevate the dove. She turns to beef recipes for inspiration. Like beef, doves pair well with mushrooms and red wine as well as butter- or oilbased herb sauces. One of her favorites is chimichurri, an oilbased Brazilian sauce featuring fresh garlic, parsley, cilantro and sometimes other tender herbs such as oregano or mint.

During the season, Parma and her husband often go dove hunting after work. Supper that night is whatever they harvest that afternoon.

“We enjoy eating dove in their season,” Parma said.

Sometimes they breast the birds, while other times they pluck them, depending on how they will prepare them. They also save the hearts as nibbles.

Because the couple likes the immediate connection to the land, the harvest and the food, the Parmas generally do not freeze any birds. For those who want to enjoy the high-flying steak nuggets later, she suggested purchasing a vacuum packer to keep the meat freezer burn-free. To maximize flexibility, package the dove in 2-3 bird serving sizes.

“Cooking is my love language. If I adore you, I want to feed you,” Parma said. “I'm not five-star chef, but I get excited to share food with my people.” According to Parma, September is the perfect time to break bread because they can share the bounty of their garden, their foraging and their dove hunting bags, if nature and luck allow. By design, the post-hunt dinner isn't elaborate.

“Because I'm hunting too, I aim for simple, but elevated,” Parma said.

She builds her menu around garden-fresh salsas and sauces and field favorites such mesquite bean jelly or prickly pear mint juleps. A good cocktail is always part of the mix.

“For me this gathering is less about the menu and more about sharing a meal that comes from the land in more ways than one—and keeping us connected to one another,” Parma said.

FROM KRISTIN'S KITCHEN

Kristin Brooke Parma

SPICY CHIVE CHIMICHURRI DOVE & ROASTED SEASONAL VEGETABLES

Ingredients

• 2-3 dove per person, halved or breasted out • ½ bunch of Italian parsley • ½ bunch of cilantro • Handful of chives, roughly chopped • 1 serrano pepper, with seeds • 2-3 cloves of roasted garlic • Dash of sea salt • Dash of black pepper • ¼ cup red wine vinegar • ½ cup of oil, I use olive • Butter, as needed • Serve with your favorite seasonal vegetables: carrots, potatoes, onions, asparagus

Method

Add ingredients (except dove) to a food processer and pulse until smooth. Alternatively, you can use a mortar and pestle; this is the authentic way to make chimichurri. Cover and let stand for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. Refrigerate up to three days. Salt and pepper the dove generously. In a cast iron skillet with a touch of butter, pan sear in batches the dove on both sides, about 1-2 minutes each side, until they have some color. Let the dove rest before slicing and serving with chimichurri slathered on top. Serve with roasted seasonal vegetables of choice.

Refreshingly easy cocktail for entertaining

Kristin Brooke Parma

PRICKLY PEAR MINT JULEP

Ingredients

• 2 ounces bourbon • ½ ounce *prickly pear simple syrup • Mint leaves • Topo Chico (optional)

Method

Muddle mint leaves and prickly pear simple syrup in a cocktail glass, add crushed ice. Pour in the bourbon, stir. Garnish with a sprig of mint. For a lighter option finish with sparkling water such as Topo Chico *For simple syrup, combine prickly pear juice and sugar. Reduce over low heat. Stirring periodically.