TEXtalks International - October/November 2017 by TEXtalks International

October/November 2017

Eco friendly denim finishing

Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Saba Noor Alexandros Ali Khan Farooq Malik Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Marketing Manager Mohammad Ahmed Mohammad Khan Abdul Haseeb Layouts Faizan Khan Circulation Incharge Abdul Mughees Adddress C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com

DPS World-Digital Printing expo in Lahore; New joint ventures expected with China; ITMF Annual Conference; Growth in world cotton production; New cotton verities Going to be the third consecutive event after the success of DPS World in 2016 the exhibition is said to be a groundbreaking platform for uniting potential exhibitors and visitors engaged in digital printing and signage business from across the globe. Starting from 20th October the event will end on 22nd October at Expo Center, Lahore. The objective of the event is to address the critical issues that this booming industry is facing. Many of the international machinery manufacturers and Chemical for this industry will be exhibiting their latest products in the three-day event which will be organized by FAKT Karachi. A Six-member delegation from Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hi-Tech Group, visited the FPCCI on 19th of September 2017. The delegation had sector specific detailed discussion with their counter-parts on how to upgrade Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile industry especially the spinning mills. The acting President, Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce and Industry, Manzoor-ul-Haq Malik and senior leader of FPCCI and a leading textile industrialist and exporter Dr. Mirza Ikhtiar Baig along with other senior businessmen welcomed the Chinese team at the Federation House. Mr. Malik and Dr. Baig led the FPCCI team.

The International Textiles Manufacturers' Federation (ITMF) annual conference for the year 2017 was a grand success with participation of over 280 experts and delegates from more than 28 countries. The international conference was held recently in Indonesia based on the theme of technology, trade, and climate in disruptive times, indicating where the challenges come from. The world cotton production is projected to increase by 10% during 2017/18 reaching 25.4 million tons. Higher cotton prices during 2016/17 and better cotton price ratios to other competing crops during 2017 planting campaign resulted in expansion of cotton area by an estimated 3 million hectares to over 32 million hectares. World production is projected to edge over mill use during 2017/18, world ending stocks could increase moderately and reach 18.7 million tons with stocks to use ratio remaining little changed at 75%. The Punjab government has decided to introduce climate smart and high yielding cotton varieties to facilitate the farmers. The new offered verities will contribute a great deal in enhancing the national economy.

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TEXNews

Cover Story A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG

Interviews H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo Mr Christian Straubhaar Mr. Silvano Rufo

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Happenings

Corporate Highlights

Articles Boost your mill performance by Massimiliano Biganzoli

Reports Printing Prospects Sustainable Denim Finishing FESPA Global Print Expo

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What’s New…

TEX Events

The Innovative Market Leader at page 44

October/November 2017

News

China is eager to convert Pakistani textile into economy of scale A Six-member delegation from China’s Hi-Tech Group, a state-owned company dealing in textile and energy generation machinery, visited the FPCCI. The delegation had sector specific detailed discussion with their counter-parts on how to upgrade Pakistan’s textile industry especially the spinning mills.

Chinese were keen to enter joint ventures for modernization and up-gradation of Pakistan’s spinning mills to make them cost efficient and competitive, said Mr Zhang. They wanted to start with installing one million spindles at least at one spinning mill, which iss the lowest benchmark for a spinning mill in China.

“About 80% of yarn and other textile products will be re-exported to China for value-addition to sell the finished goods at better prices in the international market,” Pakistani businessmen were informed. Led by Executive Director of the Group, Shaohul Zhang, the Chinese delegation was on a 5-day visit to Pakistan from September 17. The delegation also flew to Lahore for business sessions with the textile industry people.

Head of the Chinese delegation informed that China wants to relocate its textile units to Pakistan to benefit from Pakistan’s low paid and well-experienced textile labor. “We can contribute in power supply at very favorable price. There can be very good partnership in spinning mills and power plants owners,” Zhang remarked adding that “give us land, we will bring textile machinery here.”

The acting President, Federation of Pakistan Chambers of Commerce and Industry, Manzoor-ul-Haq Malik and senior leader of FPCCI and a leading textile industrialist and exporter Dr. Mirza Ikhtiar Baig along with other senior businessmen welcomed the Chinese team at the Federation House. Mr. Malik and Dr. Baig led the FPCCI team.

FPCCI Acting President Manzoor-ul-Haq Malik and Dr. Mirza Ikhtiar Baig assured the Chinese delegates they would pursue their initiatives with the textile related FPCCI members in the country. “We will work together on this program,” Malik remarked. Dr. Baig recalled that China’s Hi-Tech Group had supplying machinery to Pakistan’s textile sector for the last 25 years.

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Cotton stocks outside China are projected to grow in 2017/18 The world cotton production is projected to increase by 10% during 2017/18 reaching 25.4 million tons. Higher cotton prices during 2016/17 and better cotton price ratios to other competing crops during 2017 planting campaign resulted in expansion of cotton area by an estimated 3 million hectares to over 32 million hectares. During 2017/18 the largest gain in production of 23% to 4.6 million tons is projected in the USA. Production is projected to increase in all other major producing countries during 2017/18, including India, China, Pakistan, Brazil, Francophone Africa and Turkey as per the official press release published by International Cotton Advisory Committee. Global cotton mill use is projected to increase at an improved growth rate of 2.7% during 2017/18 reaching 25.2 million tons. In comparison, during 2016/17 world October/November 2017

cotton mill use grew by 1.6%. Mill use in China is projected to grow by 1.5% to 8.1 million tons. Cotton mill use is also projected to grow moderately in India, Pakistan, Turkey, Bangladesh, Vietnam and Brazil. In 2017/18, world trade is projected stable at 8 million tons and USA will remain the largest exporter accounting for 40%, or 3.1 million tons of world shipments. Bangladesh will remain the largest importer in 2017/18 accounting for 18%, or 1.4 million tons of world imports. World production is projected to edge over mill use during 2017/18, world ending stocks could increase moderately and reach 18.7 million tons with stocks to use ratio remaining little changed at 75%. However, ending stocks in China are projected to decline by 1.7 million tons during 2017/18, while outside China stocks are projected to increase by 1.85 million tons.

Smart garment technology in focus at ITMA 2019 ITMA is the world's largest textiles and garment technology exhibition. For its next edition to be held in June 2019, the ITMA will be focusing on smart garment technologies. According to Fritz P. Mayer, President of CEMATEX, which owns the ITMA exhibition, the garment making industry is labour intensive and associated with low productivity. Things are set to change. Recently, there has been much publicity about sew-bots, considered as a major breakthrough in garment automation. Manufacturers fast enough to ride the digital wave will find new opportunities and gain an edge over their competitors. The automation, especially in an integrated textiles and garment manufacturing chain, will help to address the fashion and clothing industry's current concerns of short production cycles and sustainable business practices. With greater automation on the cards, industry players are seeing the resurgence of garment manufacturing activities in Europe and other developed economies. The garment manufacturers can be more competitive by improving competencies through branding, innovation and R&D. ITMA 2019, which will be held in Spain, will be an excellent platform for garment manufacturers to explore integrated solutions, ranging from textile and garment technologies to fibres, yarns and fabrics.

To help garment manufacturers exploit technologies that optimize the manufacturing process for productivity gains, ITMA 2019 is expected to feature a wide array of innovative solutions. They range from garment making machinery to other textile processing machinery, auxiliary machinery and accessories, such as: Software and systems for product planning, design and related automation technology for garment making, Equipment for product development, Machinery for shrinking, fusing, cutting preparation, cutting and related automation technology, Machinery for sewing, quilting and linking, Sewing supplies and consumables, Machinery and equipment for product finishing, Auxiliary machinery for the garment making industry. Besides a huge display of technologies, fibres, yarns and fabrics, ITMA 2019 will be complemented by conferences and meetings that will add value to the visits of garment technology buyers, as well as brands and retailers. It will showcase an integrated textiles and garment manufacturing value chain and in addition to machinery, exhibits will also include yarns, fibres and fabrics, and solutions for technical textiles and nonwovens, and garment making. The event will be held from 20th to 26th of June 2019, at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via.

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First chief sustainability officer at Cotton Incorporated The Cotton Incorporated is a US based research and promotion company for US cotton producers and importers. The organization extends its commitment to sustainability of cotton across the supply chain by appointing Dr Jesse Daystar, Vice President and Chief Sustainability Officer. “Dr Daystar brings a wealth of experience and knowledge to this newly created role, which will oversee and coordinate our internal and external sustainability efforts,” said Berrye Worsham, President and CEO of Cotton Incorporated. “As our company's sustainability programs continue to gain momentum, Dr Daystar will be a valuable resource for the company and the cotton industry.” Dr Daystar is well-versed in the complexities of

sustainability research, particularly as it relates to cellulosic fibres, including cotton. His research has appeared in scholarly journals and his consulting work has led to the development of sustainability and chemical engineering tools, and certifications for clients including the United States Department of Agriculture, Department of Energy, Eastman Chemical, and Piedmont biofuels. He earned a doctorate in forest biomaterials from North Carolina State University. Cotton Incorporated is funded by US cotton producers and importers of cotton and cotton textile products and conducts worldwide research and promotion activities to increase the demand for and profitability of cotton.

Ali Pervaiz takes charge as Chairman APTMA Punjab Mr Ali Pervaiz has taken charge as Chairman of All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) Punjab in the Annual General Body Meeting of the Association. He, along with the other office bearers, were elected unopposed in the annual elections of the Association. Among other office bearers, Mr Adil Bashir has been elected as Senior Vice Chairman, Mr Aamir Sheikh as Vice Chairman, and Mr Shargeel Khalid

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as Treasurer of APTMA Punjab. Those elected as members includedMr Asad Kamal, Mr Asher Khurram, Mr Azhar Majeed Shaikh, Mr Faisal Shafi, Mr Muhammad Siddique, Mr Zaeem Ahmed, Mr Imran Ghafoor, Mr Umair Umar and Mr Omer Latif Chaudhry. Chairman APTMA Punjab has vowed to actively engage with the government to get industry issues resolved on priority basis so that pressure on external account of the country can be eased.

China-Pakistan FTA- Second phase of negotiation The 8th meeting of 2nd Phase negotiation of China-Pakistan Free Trade Agreement (FTA) was held in Beijing the mid of September. The negotiation concluded with a breakthrough which was at an impasse over the last few rounds. The meeting was co-chaired by Mohammad Younus Dagha, Secretary Commerce, Pakistan and Wang Shouwen, Vice Minister for Commerce, China. The information related to the negotiation was provided in an official press release. In the last seven rounds, Pakistan had been pleading the case of restoration of its preference under the FTA which had been eroded due to subsequent FTAs of China. Younus Dagha pointed out that the preference on 79% of Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exports to China had been eroded. Pakistan has also been concerned over not having been able to get meaningful market access during the first phase of the FTA.

Pakistan had been raising this issue with the Chinese side time and again during the previous rounds without any consensus to address these concerns. It was in this back drop, the Secretary Commerce decided to lead the negotiations with the Chinese Vice Minister as his counterpart. After two days of negotiations, Chinese side agreed to address the major concerns of Pakistan side regarding preference erosion for Pakistani exports and meaningful market access during the 2nd phase. In this regard Pakistan shared a list around 70 high priority items of its export interest for immediate market access, which the Chinese side agreed to consider favorably. These tariff lines constitute more than 80% of Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current exports to China. The meeting ended with exchange of pleasantries and a resolve to continue working together to make China Pakistan Free Trade Agreement a win-win proposition for both the countries.

Chinese investors to invest $300m Pakistan textile sector The Chinese businessmen have planned to invest about $300 million in Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s textile sector in joint ventures with Pakistani companies for the promotion of the bilateral trading relation between the two countries. In this regard a Memorandum of Understanding (MoUs) has already been signed between the Chinese firms and the Pakistani firms with an aim to enhance the mutual cooperation and the investment in different textile sectors including; fabric, accessories and importing modern machinery from Beijing for modernization and value addition in textile sector, the Chairman Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exports October/November 2017

Association (PRGMEA) Mr Ijaz Khokhar said. The Chinese firms have huge opportunities in distribution and joint venture with local potential industries and individuals from Pakistan, for increasing trade and investment cooperation between business communities of both sides, he further added. Khokhar believed that the CPEC would enhance the regional and global connectivity for connecting the local market with the developed economies. He also said that local industries are fully prepared for grasping the trade and business opportunities after the completion of CPEC.

New cotton varieties to boost economy The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) office bearers and the Executive Committee members have been elected unopposed for 2017-18. According to the official sources; Ali Pervaiz has been elected unopposed as Chairman APTMA Punjab for 2017-18. Also, the whole executive committee of APTMA Punjab including Adil Bashir as Senior Vice Chairman, Aamir Sheikh as Vice Chairman, Shargeel Khalid as Treasurer and Asad Kamal, Ashar Khurram, Azhar Majeed, Faisal Shafi, Muhammad Siddique, Zaeem Ahmed, Imran Ghafoor and Umair Umar have been elected as members unchallenged. Syed Ali Ahsan, the outgoing Chairman APTMA Punjab, congratulated the newly elected office bearers and members, wishing them successful journey ahead. For the said positions, no other contestant filed for the nominations against the six empty seats from Punjab region for the Central Executive Committee CEC. Therefore, Gohar Ejaz, S. M. Tanveer, Ahsan Bashir, Tanvir Gulzar and Fazal Ahmed Sh were selected from Punjab for the CEC APTMA.

All the new elected members and office bearers of the Executive Committees will take charge of their office on 29th September 2017.This is the ninth consecutive year of ruling group in the annual elections of APTMA. During the subsequent year, the APTMA management and leadership has secured Rs180 billion textile industry package from the government and presently working for its implementation in true letter and spirit. Expected is that the upcoming team will be able to take the industry ahead so far as the restoration of the viability and growth in the exports related to textile is concerned. Speaking about the matter, Gohar Ejaz expressed deep gratitude to Allah Almighty or bestowing upon his group the 9th consecutive win. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The unopposed victory of my group is a clear manifestation of the confidence reposed by the APTMA members on their leadership,â&#x20AC;? he said. The also gave best wished to the newly elected members are the central and zonal level, urging them to give their best in the larger interest of the industry and the association.

BCI 2017 Pakistan regional members meeting With an aim to deliver the latest updates on the Better Cotton globally and locally the BCI has planned a meeting with regional members of Pakistan. The event is planned to be held on October 25 2017. The meeting was planned to be held at the Pearl Continental Hotel, at Mall Road Lahore on October 25, while on October 26, 2017 following the meeting, the BCI members were planned be taken on a field trip. This meeting is thought to be a perfect opportunity for networking with fellow BCI members across the cotton supply chain, including ginners, cotton traders, spinners, fabric/garment mills, and retailers/brands. Further details about the event can be found at the website www.bettercotton.org.

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Edana debates on nonwoven waste management The European Disposables & Nonwovens Association (Edana) based in Belgium, has discussed the need for management of waste in nonwovens and its related industry at a workshop. The objective of the workshop was to develop a strong network and relationship with relevant stakeholders directly or indirectly involved in waste management in South Africa. This workshop was a follow-up to a first meeting with South Africa's department of environmental affairs in May 2016, prompted by growing concerns related to littering and the rising volume of waste from absorbent hygiene products. The focus of the workshop was on the solutions for management of waste from absorbent hygiene products to address collection and disposal gaps and raise consumer awareness. Product manufacturers, government agencies, provinces, municipalities, waste management companies and environmental civil society groups participated in the workshop. The roundtable enabled stakeholders to understand each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s concerns and expectations and was an effective platform for constructive discussions. EDANA is an international association for the nonwovens and related industries. The association has served its members for more than 40 years. The committees, programs and events are designed to bring the industry together and EDANA is helping its members design their future. The association aims to provide best in class value to its members and promote industry competitiveness through innovation and social, environmental and economic sustainability. It is also focused to create positive awareness of and trust in the industry and its products and services and promotes free and fair trade in favor of the consumer and members through shaping of the regulatory and market environments.

China limits textile trading activities with North Korea The changing political demographics around the globe has also lead to the changes in trading policies of major players of different market sectors. According to the latest updates, China has decided to limit the oil supply to North Korea and stop buying textile from the politically isolated nation of North Korea. China is most important trading partner of North Korea and its only source for hard currency. This said ban on the textile trades will have a huge negative impact on the Pyongyangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s income. At the same time the Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oil exports are the main source of petroleum products. The decision is followed by the fresh sanctions agreed at the United Nation earlier in the month of September.

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1st International conference on Technical Textile at NTU

The National Textile University, Faisalabad is all set for the 1st International Conference on technical Textile that is planned to be held on November 9-10, 2017 at the National Textile University. The objective of conference is to facilitate interaction between researchers and professionals working in the field of textile engineering. The conference will provide an international forum for professionals from academia, industry and governing bodies to discuss their problems and share achievements in order to develop the nations through recent manufacturing techniques and technologies.

The event is an opportunity to hear from the renowned textile experts including international speakers like Prof. Hatice Sinem SAS (Turkey); Prof. ICK Soo Kim (Japan); Prof. Jiri Militky (Czech Republic); Prof. Mehmat Karahan (Turkey); Prof. Prasad Potluri (UK); Prof. Xiodang Wang (China) and Prof. Xiuguo Cui (China) along with a number of national speakers including; Dr Awais Khatri; Dr Iftikhar Ahmad Soomro; Dr M. Dawood Husain; Dr. Mumtaz Hassan Malik; Dr. Rehan Abbasi; Dr. Saad Nauman; Dr. Usman Ali; Dr. Waqar Ahmad Rajput; Dr. Zameer Shah; and Dr. Zeeshan Khatri.

The focus areas of the conference includes; textile engineering, textile management and economy, polymer engineering, protective engineering, smart, functional and interactive textile, medical textile, nanotechnology, advanced fibers, recycling, ecology and environment, textile manufacturing systems, green manufacturing, automation, industrial management, tissue engineering, technical and protective textile, advanced fiber and materials, composite materials, textile education and training and product development etc.

The event is thought to be a great opportunity for collaboration among the researchers, industrialist and policy makers. It will be an extensive platform for the industry experts to discuss and share modern cutting edge techniques and the updates about the state of the art technologies in the textile engineering. The conference is also said to be focusing on the interchange of the research ideas and results through keynotes, oral presentations, posters sessions and panel discussions with experts. More details about the event can be found at www.edu.pk/ictt while for further assistance you can write at ictt@ntu.edu.pk.

US FTC rule for RN on textile product labels The US Federal Trade Commission recently streamlined requirements under the Fur, Textile and Wool Labelling Rules as part of acting Chairman Maureen K. Ohlhausenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulatory reforms agenda. The update will implement web-based electronic filings of requests to obtain, update, or cancel registered identification numbers (RN) used on product labels. The use of the web-based RN system will streamline the application process for participating businesses and greatly increase the agencyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s October/November 2017

efficiency in delivering RN services to the public. The FTC website has been updated to allow real-time data validation for applicants and alert them to possible errors to avoid unnecessary delays. Under the current rules, most clothing and textile and fur products must have a label that identifies the manufacturer or other business responsible for marketing or handling the item. The updated RN system makes it easier for companies to obtain an RN and avoid having to put long company names on labels, said the official press release.

Official opening of IAF regional office in Pakistan PRGMEA (Pakistan readymade garment manufacturers and exporters association) and IAF inaugurated the first ever IAF regional office in Pakistan. This regional office, which will form an active link between PRGMEA’s member companies and IAF’s global network and knowledge, is housed within the new ‘PRGMEA house’ in Sialkot which was also inaugurated on September 27th. It will be developing services to Pakistani apparel companies in support of their export, their capacity building and their compliance. The inauguration event was graced by the presence of the Pakistani State Minister for Textiles and Commerce Mr. Haji Akram Ansari, by the Dutch Ambassador to Pakistan Mrs. Ardi Stoios-Braken and by chief guest IAF President Han Bekke and drew a large crowd of industrialists and dignitaries from all over Pakistan. The President of PRGMEA, Ijaz Khokhar, also sits on the Board of Directors of the IAF and he has been the driving force leading to PRGMEA house and the IAF regional office within it. The IAF will run the regional office as a pilot which could lead to similar regional offices in other countries.

International Business Conference and Exhibition 2017 by UMT

The University of Management and Technology once again organized the 2nd International Business Conference and Exhibition (IBCE) 2017 that was scheduled to be held from October 28-30, 2017 at Expo Center, Lahore. The event is a unique platform that offers the businessmen, multinational corporation, exhibitors, manufacturers, foreign investors, CEOs, academicians and entrepreneurs from all across the globe to join the transact business and enlighten and inspire the youth in their quest for knowledge and innovation. The event is also said to open new doors for investment in Pakistan that will have the potential to transform the national business profile of the country.

The event will be held on 4000 sqm floor space and is expected to have more than 300 exhibitor and 200000+ visitors offering extensive opportunities for B2Y and B2B meetings. More than 15 countries are participating in October/November 2017

the event. The event will also offer more than 50 conference sessions where above 200 national and international speakers will share words to the audience sitting in the 800+ seating capacity area where the inauguration and closing technical sessions will be held. This event is an important occasion to participate because a number of renowned international and national speakers will be present. Due to the presence of a large number of business entities, there would be huge product and services marketing opportunities and expands business through technology transformation. The focus area of the event includes; CPEC, construction and housing, automobiles, services, manufacturing, textile, IT and telecom, health, food and agriculture, fast-moving consumer goods, and clean energy. More details about the event can be found at www.ibce.com.pk.

AD KARL MAYER THE INNOVATIVE MARKET LEADER

www.karlmayer.com

Digitalization in Sports- Focus of ISPO Munich 2018

The ISPO Munich is a leading global trade fair and an important platform in the sports business. The fair is set to present its latest innovations and products in the sports industry at the expo in 2018 which will be held from January 28 to 21 in Germany. ISPO Munich 2018 will focus on major topics like digitalization, cross-industry, women in sports, and sustainability. The 8 different segments in 16 halls of the venue will display segments like; snowsports, outdoor, health & fitness, urban, teamsports, vision, manufacturing & suppliers as well as trends and innovation & industry services. The fair will also have a focus on the areas that will provide and insight to different sport wears related themes. Water sports, for instance, will be showcased in a large area as part of the outdoor segment and wearables in health & fitness. Retailers, distributors, and sports enthusiasts will have the opportunity to gain insight, information, and inspiration about upcoming trends. Advanced-training and innovation platforms like the Retail Lab and the ISPO Academy will present trend-setting developments. The focus of planned

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presentations, seminars, and interactive forums will be the digital transformation of the sports industry. Under the name â&#x20AC;&#x153;Digital Readiness,â&#x20AC;? industry and retail representatives will learn how to competitively run their business in the future. The segments Outdoor and Health & Fitness promise to provide growth and potential for sales channels and retail space. The four outdoor halls will supply information about trends and innovations ranging from mountain and rock climbing to bouldering, trail running, camping, and water sports. Health & Fitness will present trends in running, urban fitness, body & mind, and athleisure. Visitors to the trade fair will experience live just what new types of concepts will be offered by digitalisation in sports: sporting devices that can be controlled by app, washable and expandable sensors in functional clothing, digital customer services and online solutions for specialist sports storesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;digital business models and smart, connected sports products are constantly being refined. New technologies will provide important momentum to the sporting goods industry.

Eco friendly denim finishing from Monforts at ShanghaiTex Monforts will be placing special emphasis on its latest Denim finishing technologies at ShanghaiTex - 27 – 30 November – in Hall W5, Booth A11; including the innovative ThermoStretch skewing unit avoiding the expensive need for steam-operated cylinder dryers. The new ThermoStretch skewing unit from Monforts offers new and improved features for Eco friendly denim finishing avoiding the excessive use of ‘expensive to generate’ steam that was previously necessary for the cylinder dryers; thereby replacing the need for steam-operated cylinder dryers. It also provides a much gentler treatment of the denim fabric during stretching than was previously achievable together with an optimised fabric hand. The ThermoStretch unit also continues to be available as a ‘long stretch’ unit but without heating properties for the fabric. Monforts has in depth ‘knowhow’ in high speed processing ranges for denim finishing with the ‘double rubber’ twin compressive shrinking unit working in tandem for working speeds even above 80 metres / minute. The larger fabric content of the ThermoStretch unit in combination with the ‘double October/November 2017

rubber’ twin compressive shrinking unit ensures minimum residual shrinkage values and highest production speeds which could not be achieved before. In the denim industry, this concept is making a significant contribution to higher productivity and lower energy consumption and the company has references in Vietnam and Mexico. Denim technologists will be at the exhibition to offer detailed advice to visitors on the latest denim finishing processes. Monforts will also highlight its texCoat coating processes and finishing of technical textiles, especially airbag materials at the show. Monforts is the only manufacturer that can offer completely integrated coating lines from a single source with the coating machine tailored to the subsequent Monforts drying technology. The Monforts system has the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the stenter and offers all variations of coating application systems, such as knife over air, knife over roller, magnetic knife or printing head. All of these options are also available in wider widths, with the engineering from a single source.

The new ThermoStretch skewing unit from Monforts offers new and improved features for Eco friendly denim finishing. Illustrated a complete Eco denim line in Mexico - the first to use the technology for finishing denim fabrics of up to 300 g/sqm.

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Machine operation gets close to ‘child’s play’ with the Monforts Qualitex 800 The latest Qualitex 800 control system from Monforts is available on line to make operation of the company’s finishing machines ‘childs play’

Qualitex 800 control system

Access to the internet is turning everyone into an instant handyman and when a job around the house needs doing, YouTube is the place to go to for demonstrations and instructions from experts, just as Wikipedia has become the default source for information. Previous obstacles to knowledge such as language and access to specialist manuals are fast disappearing as a result. The same instant connectivity and easy distribution of know-how is changing the face of industrial manufacturing, making the operation of complex machinery much simpler and cutting down the required training periods, while at the same time, reducing the chance of human error. This is certainly the case with the latest Qualitex 800 control system which has been introduced by Monforts to make operation of its finishing machines as close to ‘child’s play’ as is possible. This highly advanced system is available for the automatic and continuous operation of the company’s Montex stenters, Thermex and

E-Control continuous dyeing ranges, Monfortex and Toptex shrinking systems and Eco Applicator and texCoat coating units. Familiar features The Qualitex 800 has all the intuitive features operators will be familiar with from touchscreen smart phones and tablets to make navigation extremely easy and cut down the time required for becoming familiar with the system. Operation is via touchscreen and wheel effect selection and the dashboard can be individually configured to meet the exact needs of an operator’s tasks. All parameters for setting up a machine – the working width, the chamber temperatures, drive selections and energy settings – can be pre-selected to a comprehensive range of stored and well-proven recipes specific to the weight, construction and fibre content of the individual fabric being processed. The machine can then be set to ‘Monformatic Mode’ to allow it to operate automatically, based October/November 2017

Qualitex 800 configured to meet the exact needs of an operatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tasks

on maximized pre-set values in respect of parameters such as machine speed, fabric dwell time and the fixation temperature for specific finishing operations. A series of checks and balances has been built in for both the machine and the operator, with actual performance constantly compared to the pre-set values and compensatory measures introduced either automatically or by simple manual intervention. All machine parameters are stored for further evaluation and the creation of historic trend charts and any potential problems are flagged up by instant alarms for later performance analysis. If a problem occurs that is serious enough to lead to a potential downtime in production, more help is at hand via the Monforts Teleservice portal. With this service, companies can enter into internet conferences with Monforts specialists in Germany, with video, audio, chat or whiteboard problem solving available, and all documentation in respect of operation, maintenance and wiring diagrams

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can be accessed. If necessary, the E-CAD drawings and the spare parts catalogue can also be remotely consulted and a camera can be called up at any time for remote visualization of the individual machine and its parts. Cost comparisons The Monforts Teleservice also allows operating data to be acquired for historic analysis and production batch comparisons, with a nine-parameter cost breakdown allowing mills to carry out highly accurate financial forecasting and keep a tight rein on costs. With the Qualitex 800 and Monforts Teleservice all data and communication can also be accessed away from the mill too, via common mobile devices, as components in an overall service intended to very rapidly and efficiently turn machine operators into experts and allow for uninterrupted, trouble-free production.

Interview

An Interview with

H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo

The Ambassador of Italy in Pakistan

ITEMA is a leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services. On 4th of October 2017 the company opened a weaving training campus with the name â&#x20AC;&#x153;ITEMA Training Campus.â&#x20AC;? H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo the Ambassador of Italy in Pakistan was the respected guest at the event and shared his views about the decision made by two authorities and also discussed about the trade potential between Pakistan and Italy. Here are some details

October/November 2017

TEXtalks: How do you see the trade potential between Pakistan and Italy? H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo: In this specific field the sky is the limit. In the textile sector, the objective compatarimenty which there is between the Italian economy and in the Pakistani economy is at the highest level. Pakistan is already the sixth market for Italian textile machinery and more and more Pakistani textiles are heading toward Italy. I believe, there is a huge potential which is already been expressed and which will grow in the coming years. TEXtalks: What steps Pakistani government should take to increase exports in Italy? H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo: I believe that the Pakistani government has already been on the right course for a long time. There is general issue of enhancing exports from the Pakistan and we all must support the textile industry which will be keeping Pakistani exports going. So the incentives no doubt, the last scheme for the ten years scheme which was announced in favor of the Pakistani textile industry is the right thing to do. You will need a few more incentives of this type to assist in particular to the exports sectors and not only with the internal matters. I can add that with the growing knowledge of the quality of Pakistani textiles and the production, it is not gone to be a difficult task for Pakistani government. TEXtalks: How do you see the venture like ITEMA Campus to effect the Italian brands promotion in Pakistan? H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo: It certainly will affect the Italian brands. ITEMA is worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the largest privately owned company, in the textile sector. It is a bell weather in Italy. People in the textile industry look at what ITEMA is doing and follow it. In textile industry Pakistan is well known, as I said it is the sixth market for our brands. But the fact, ITEMA is actually investing in the country, is a further sign of confidence which other

Italian companies will certainly be able to wage. TEXtalks: Pakistan got the GSP status from Europe, how do you see it is going on and what would be the steps for the review process? H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo: Review processes are never easy. I am very confident that the review process will acknowledge the progress Pakistan is making. I will say, it is very curious that there are some difficulties as Pakistan legislation in some cases is much more advanced than the UN conventions have prescribed. I think the small efforts by Pakistan authorities could go a large way towards soothing the EU preoccupations on the issue. All, I believe is that it would be extended. TEXtalks: Do you see any joint ventures for the promotion of Italian machinery brands in Pakistan? H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo: We are here celebrating one of them and I have been contacted through our commercial office by three Italian companies who are interested in finding good partners over here. But this is not only in the sector of textile machinery. Textile machinery is of course a sector which leads because we have been here for 30 years, we know the market, the textile machinery makers are well versed in treating with the Pakistani partner, but this is going to mechanical industry and to a number of others, to all the agriculture industry and to others. So this trend, we would see strengthening. TEXtalks: How was your experience as an ambassador to Pakistan? H.E. Stefano Pontecorvo: Wonderful, in one word, absolutely wonderful. We have relaunched 360 degrees, our cooperation. Last year, we had five members of Italian government visiting Pakistan. The last one to come before was might ten years before, was in 2008. We have increased more than 150% of bilateral trade. We had this year, three Pakistani ministers, who have gone or going to Italy and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wonderful.

October/November 2017

Interview

An Interview with

Mr Christian Straubhaar

Group Sales & Marketing Director, Itema Group - Italy

ITEMA is a leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services. On 4th of October 2017 the company opened a weaving training campus with the name â&#x20AC;&#x153;ITEMA Training Campus.â&#x20AC;? Mr Christian Straubhaar, Group Sales & Marketing Director, Itema Group, shared his views with TEXtalks International about the decision made by two authorities and also its effects on the textile sector of Pakistan. TEXtalks: What made you take the steps of founding training center in Pakistan?

October/November 2017

Christian Straubhaar: This step is very important for us. Since one year we have been looking to make some major improvements in Pakistan and decided that in order to demonstrate in the best way our devoted commitment to the Pakistani textile industry, we would establish a meaningful physical presence of ITEMA working in close collaboration with NOON International, our agent. That is why we have decided to open our ITEMA Campus today. This campus is equipped for now with two looms and is fully dedicated to our Customers - to come here in order to see and touch the machines and also to receive hands-on training and demonstrate what one can expect when

weaving with our best-in-class machines. TEXtalks: Can you please brief about the machines installed in the ITEMA campus? Christian Straubhaar: In ITEMA Campus we have, for the time being, installed one A9500p Airjet Machine with a Stretch Shirting style in weaving width 220 cm and a R9500p Rapier Machine with a Stretch Denim style also in weaving width 220cm. These are just the first two weaving machines installed for the launch of the ITEMA Campus and reflect two of the main markets of strategic importance for us in Pakistan that we are fully committed to serve with the right equipment in the next years. We will of course evaluate the need to change, as necessary, the weaving machines and/or the styles woven for training purposes in order to best reflect the needs of our clientele. TEXtalks: What kind of training sessions will ITEMA conduct in this Training Center? Christian Straubhaar: Although our weaving machinery range is very user-friendly and straightforward to use, we, nevertheless, believe that mastering the finest aspects, as well as hands-on practical sessions with instructors can go a long way in order to further familiarize weaving mill personnel with our technology. We are so excited about our technology that we want to share the vast technological possibilities with our customers and be available for face-to-face interaction in order to pass on as many handy tips on how to get the most out of our looms and optimize performance, versatility, consumption, as well as efficiency statistics. For example, it is still a little known fact that Itema airjet weaving machines consume on average between 10% and 20% less air than the alternatives on the market today. This and other advantages of using Itema machines will come out first-hand during the training sessions in ITEMA Campus Lahore for the ultimate benefit of the Pakistani textile industry. In addition, we tell our customers to come here, bring their weft yarns, bring their textile designers, test the machines, as well as learn how to best ue the technology to their advantage. I think this message is important and we will increasingly encourage our customers to make the most out of the Itema Campus facilities. TEXtalks: How do you see this training center changing game in the textile sector in Pakistan? Christian Straubhaar: Everything starts with

education. Our past experience with the Sulzer (one of the companies that now make up Itema) training facility opened in Pakistan in 1994 has been extremely positive allowing our company together with Noon to thoroughly train over 1,600 Pakistani technicians. We want to build on that success and provide a modern facility with the latest machinery in an ergonomic environment conducive to learning and knowledge transfer. The collateral advantages of training and education are endless. Continuous and timely training of weaving mill technicians will undoubtedly increase not only their performance and output, but also the competitive advantage of their employers, the textile mills across the country, and, why not, entire country of Pakistan. TEXtalks: how do you see the potential and the capabilities of the local textile weaving industry in Pakistan? Christian Straubhaar: The textile industry of Pakistan is very well organized. The millsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; owners, managers and personnel are impressive, very professional people who know what they are doing. It is a sophisticated market, geared to compete at the very top of the worldwide textile market. I believe that ITEMA can support Pakistani mills with our latest and most advanced weaving machines that we have, thus enabling them to boost even more their success and the success of their customers. We see a great potential here in Pakistan in the near future. TEXtalks: What are the latest products from Itema and how is the response from the industry? Christian Straubhaar: The latest loom we brought onto the market, our R9500terry Rapier Machine has been from the start a very successful product, instantly loved and appreciated by terry weavers around the globe in pursuit of the very best technology to weave luxurious, premium quality terry fabrics. Repeat orders and a huge volume of sets sold worldwide have both contributed to making our R9500terry weaving machine the most successful terry machine in recent history. TEXtalks: How do you see Pakistani market for ITEMA products? Christian Straubhaar: I see it very positively. We have finalized many deals in the last few weeks. We are progressing rapidly, quicker than what I had expected and I am confident that next year will be an even better year for us in Pakistan.

October/November 2017

Interview

An Interview with

Mr. Silvano Rufo Vice President Marketing, Business Group Rieter Components, Switzerland The 5 companies Bräcker, Graf, Novibra Suessen and SSM joined their sales forces, uniting the world's leading brands for the supply of technology components to the textile industry, forming the only global provider of components for all spinning technologies. The assortment includes the complete product range of components from fibre to yarn. Mr Silvano Rufo is the Vice President Marketing of Business Group Components at Rieter Machine Works Ltd and he shared his views about the companies achievements at the Symposiums held in three cities of Pakistan in September 2017. TEXtalks: How do you think the business model has changed after the collaboration with Rieter Machine Works? Silvano Rufo: The collaboration with Rieter Machine Works is successful for a long time. The companies Bräcker, Graf, Novibra and Suessen are part of the Rieter Group. This is an excellent combination. TEXtalks: How do you see the impact of machine parts on product quality of yarn? Silvano Rufo: Components are crucial for producing yarns in terms of quality and productivity. It means that components and machines are the best combination so that our customers could achieve the most profitable conversion costs. TEXtalks: Could you describe the range of products presenting in the various symposia? And how do you see them receiving response from the Pakistani market? Silvano Rufo: In the symposia Bräcker presents ORBIT rings. They match the high running speed requirements of the Pakistani market. Titan rings are

October/November 2017

already running worldwide on more than 50 million spindles. Graf introduces new card wires solutions, the magnetic flat attachment EasyTop and the new generation of circular comb, called X-Comb. Novibra launches LENA spindles. They save energy, which means reduced power consumption and therefore lower conversion costs for our customers. Suessen is well-known for its compacting system: More than ten million EliTe spindles are running worldwide. Rieter Components shows also some new application ranges and new releases to make compacting yarns more profitable for the Pakistani market. TEXtalks: Any new product innovation in the coming days? Silvano Rufo: We are continuously developing new products. Next big step in launching new products will be the ITMA Asia 2018 exhibition. TEXtalks: How was the response from the participants in the Karachi, Multan and Lahore symposia? Silvano Rufo: On all locations we received positive feedback. More than 300 people joined the symposia; this is a real success and confirms the interest in our products and solutions. We had a lot of fruitful discussions with our customers and this indicates the value of such symposia for both parties. TEXtalks: How do you see the Pakistani market for your products? Silvano Rufo: The Pakistani market is well-known for its high speed production. I just visited a few customers here in Pakistan and I had the opportunity to see that our products match the requirements concerning production speed and quality of the Pakistani market.

Happenings

Itema Training Campus opened in Pakistan ITEMA, Italy- A leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, along with Noon International recently setup a state of the art training facility by the name of â&#x20AC;&#x153;ITEMA Campusâ&#x20AC;? at the Noon International, located at Raiwand Road, Lahore, Pakistan. Based on keen interest of the Italian textile companies in Pakistan and their admiration for the skilled professionals and exceptional production speed of the Pakistan textile mills, the decision is made to train manpower to benefits Italian as well as local textile weaving industry. This opening ceremony was executed on Wednesday October 4, 2017. A welcome speech was given by the officials from Noon International that was followed by introduction to ITEMA from Mr Christian Straubhaar (Group sales and Marketing Director). Later on, Mr Roberto Cortinovis (Product Marketing Manager, ITEMA) addressed the audience about the market trends and ITEMA developments while H.E. Stefano Pontercorvo (Ambassador of Italy in Pakistan) also addressed the audience and appreciated the decision made by two authorities and showed his hope for the better results of this venture. Mr Aamir Fayyaz Sheikh (the CEO of Kohinoor Mills Limited and Chairman of APTMA) was the chief guest at the event. Ms Diana Profir (Head of Marketing and Communication, ITEMA) was also present with the Itema team to welcome the guests from industry, the highlights of which are here.

October/November 2017

Happenings

October/November 2017

Happenings 38

Happenings

Rieter Group Component Symposium received appreciation Under the slogan of Rieter Machine Works Ltd, the Premium Textile Components provides technology components and service facilities both for spinning mills and machinery manufacturers. In September 2017, a technical symposium was held in three different cities of Pakistan where the company representative projected their latest products and services. A large number of accomplices from textile sector took part in the symposium and showed a great interest, making it a successful venture of the Rieter group. Marking its journey from fibre to yarn the Rieter group is empowered with skills and expertise of BrĂ¤cker, Graf, Novibra, Suessen and SSM. The 5 companies had joined their sales forces, uniting the world's leading brands for the supply of

October/November 2017

With the idea to provide the customer with an extensive range of products of all levels from “Good to Better and to Premium,” the Symposium Road Show was held in Pakistan in September 2017. The show was held in three different cities of Pakistan where the participating companies presented their new and upcoming product details to the customers. The event was held on alternatives dates of 25th, 27th and 29th of September 2017. A large number of textile representatives attended the symposium which was recorded as about 126 participants in Karachi, 110 participants in Multan, and 175 participants from Lahore were on the board that shared words and took great interest in the symposium activities. Mr Ahmed Shafi Ghauri, in his welcoming speech, appreciated the joint efforts placed in executing the event and also showed hope for better future of textile in Pakistan with such events. On Monday 25th of September, the speakers briefed

about the machines and components at the Hotel PC in Karachi while they moved to the Ramada Hotel, Multan on 27th of September. The last show was held in Hotel Avari, Lahore on 29th of September. The three-day symposium was a big success where a large number of decision-making authorities including the technical directors and general managers from the textile industry of Pakistan were present at the event and showed great interest in the projected machinery and products. Mr Silvano Rufo from Rieter Components was among the respected speakers while sharing his views with TEXtalks International he said that “More than 120 people joined the symposium and this is nice. We have had about 120 people who showed up from different mills. How I can chart sheet the moment and the response was; we had a lot of questions and discussions from customer side and this is a sign that such kind of events is fruitful for both of us.” Other presenters who shared words about the machines include; Mr Fritz Moser from Bracker; Mr Georgios Katis from Graf; Mr Lucaks Castulk from Novibra and Mr Ioannis Spiridopulos from Suessen. As said by Mr Rufo from Rieter; “the success of this event and the deep interest of people from the textile sector of Pakistan showed that such events are helpful for both ends of the corporate sector to grow.” These events are said to be an extensive platform for the companies to interact with their potential

October/November 2017

Happenings

technology components to the textile industry, forming the only global provider of components for all spinning technologies. The assortment includes a comprehensive range of products related to the fibre up till the yarn the technology parts for sliver preparation, spinning components for all spinning technologies, products for high-end and basic technology as well as global sales, service, engineering and manufacturing are part of the services offered by the business group.

Happenings

October/November 2017

Corporate Highlights

Securely packaged

An online process for the non-stop production of sacks on KARL MAYER’s RDS 11 EL machine

Fig 1. The whole line with the FTL unit, the RDS 11 EL and the batching unit for automatic sacks

KARL MAYER has revamped its machine technology for producing packaging sacks. As before, this fully integrated system enables ready-to-use, high-quality products to be manufactured non-stop from film at maximum efficiency. What is new, however, is the machine’s level of flexibility. As the most important element, the double-bar raschel machine has been equipped with an EL pattern drive, which enables variable sack lengths and lappings to be worked. Five blades per inch produce tape yarns from film An FTL unit is located at the beginning of the processing chain for producing sacks. This element in the production line has a cutting bar for cutting a double-layered, primary polyolefin film into tape yams and drawing them in a heating zone to produce

October/November 2017

monoaxial flat film yarns. These yarns are delivered to the Double-bar raschel machine, in depending of the demand. The needs-based delivery of the tape yarns is a decisive factor for online process control, just as is the exact harmonisation of the machine technology as a whole (Fig. 1). “With this non-stop sequence, everything must function perfectly and all the components have to be in perfect harmony, rather like an orchestra,” says Rainer Baier, a product developer, at the machine presentation. A tried-and-tested basic design An RDS 11 EL is used to knit (Fig. 2) the tape yarns to produce complete sacks. The machine is supplied with a width of 193", a gauge of E 6, a threading arrangement of 1 in, 2 out, and a set of warp knitting

Fig 2. The knitting elements on the RDS 11 EL

elements comprising two compound needle bars, two knock-over comb bars, four ground guide bars and seven pattern bars. With this configuration, the RDS 11 EL works a combination of a pillar stitch and weft lapping. Two separate webs are produced, one by ground guide bars, GB 4 and GB 5, on the rear needle bar and one by GB 7 and GB 8 on the front needle bar. The two mesh webs are joined together on one side in the working direction by pattern bar, PB 6. The seam forms the base of the packaging sack. The opposite side is open to enable the sack to be filled. The openings in the horizontal direction are also closed, by changing the lapping, to produce the side seams of the sack. The EL facility produces customised sacks The RDS 11 EL offers a number of options for the efficient production of ready-to-use sacks, including the incorporation of sealing tapes, flaps for automatic filling, an adhesive strip for the subsequent application of labels, and contact yarns for subsequent process control. Above all, the dimensions of the product can be varied. For example, the opening widths of the nets can be varied via the stitch density, i.e. via the take-down, and by the lapping. The depth of the sack can also be changed via the threading arrangement of the guide bars as a function of the number of webs produced in parallel. The width of the sacks can also be varied as required. The width is determined by the repeat length, which can be freely selected and changed easily. The reason for this is that,

unlike its predecessor, the RSD 11 EL has been equipped with a new feature, the EL pattern drive (Fig. 3).

Fig 3. The EL pattern drive on the RDS 11 EL

This electronic system replaces the old, mechanical NNC type. It does not use pattern chains or discs and enables the pattern to be changed easily. The repeat lengths can also be changed easily to adjust the size of the sacks. The RDS 11 EL has also been newly equipped with the tried-and-tested KAMCOSÂŽ-system, so that its extensive potential can be easily exploited. Stacks or rolls â&#x20AC;&#x201C; both types of take-up are possible Two systems are available for taking-up the warp-knitted sacks, i.e. the 26/6 batching unit and the STMR sack separating machine. October/November 2017

Fig 4. Swivel-mounted delivery frame with the sacking web

The batching unit produces rolls from the sack webs which, as “automatic sacks”, are fed fully automatically to the filling machine. Alternatively, the STMR process produces piles of individual sacks that are ready to be filled.

removed via a conveyor belt (Fig. 6).

In this case, the textile webs run via a roller feed unit to a thermal cutting unit on a swivel-mounted frame (Fig. 4). Once the predetermined width of the sack has been reached, it is cut by a horizontal stroke of the cutting unit along the side seams. The RDS 11 EL incorporates a marking thread (Fig. 5), so that sensor technology can be used to detect the cutting points. The separated sacks are then stacked using the swivel-mounted frame until the set number has been reached. They are then

Fig 6. Laying table with conveyor belt and finished piles of sacks

A machine that is ideally suited to the market Thanks to online process control and the high efficiency of the RDS 11 EL, KARL MAYER’s line for producing sacks operates at an extremely high production rate. At a speed of 900 courses/min, an average of about 900 sacks per hour can be produced – depending on the dimensions selected and the stitch density.

Fig 5. Marking thread for initiating the cutting process

October/November 2017

The market is extremely impressed by this high productivity and flexibility. The first complete line with FTL unit and batching unit for automatic sacks left KARL MAYER’s headquarters in Obertshausen in September 2016. This delivery was the result of two years of successful development work.

October/November 2017

IDF

The success story

Thousands of successfully producing IDF demonstrate that draw frames are superfluous in rotor spinning

There is no easier way to earn money than through process reduction. Machines that are not needed require no investment and no operating costs. This applies to draw frames in rotor spinning. In modern rotor spinning, conventional draw frames are not necessary. In connection with the Integrated Draw Frame IDF, thousands of Trützschler cards successfully produce high-quality slivers for rotor spinning. The advantages in terms of quality and economic efficiency are well known: • Improved yarn quality and product quality • Improved running behaviour of the rotor spinning machines • Significantly reduced space requirement • Savings in energy costs • Less cans and reduced personnel requirement

The second generation IDF features a two-over-two drafting system.

The second generation The launch of the second generation, the IDF 2, has expanded the spectrum of applications. The first generation was primarily used in the area of coarse and medium yarns. The second generation also successfully covers fine rotor yarns.

The Integrated Draw Frame IDF 2 makes draw frames superfluous in rotor spinning

October/November 2017

Italian textile machinery at African Sourcing & Fashion week An Italian textile machinery delegation will be on hand at the upcoming African Sourcing & Fashion Week (ASFW), to be held in Addis Ababa (Ethiopia) from 3 to 6 October 2017. The companies will exhibit at the Italian pavilion organized by the Italian Trade Agency. Among these are the following ACIMIT associated members: Autotex, Bianco, CarĂš, Corino, Europrogetti, Fadis, Ferraro, Lonati, Loptex, Mei, Mesdan, Reggiani, Ssm Giudici, Tonello, Ugolini, Willy.

Italian textile machinery exports to Ethiopia (million euro)

In Ethiopia textile and garments industry has a long history and tradition. The sector represents the lion-share of employment in the manufacturing sector. The Ethiopian government has launched the IIÂ° GTP, Growth and Transformation Plan for 2015-2020 period to promote the industry and to exploit the several bilateral trade agreements signed with Western Countries. Moreover the Country is experimenting a long period of GDP growth. In this positive economic climate, the demand for machinery by local textile companies has grown significantly. Over the past five years, Italian exports to Ethiopia have increased on average by 14% annually. Their value in 2016 reached 3 million euros and in January-May period Italian sales were worth 1 million euros.

Italian textile machinery exports to Ethiopia by categories (January-May 2017)

October/November 2017

Due to the relevance of this market ACIMIT, in cooperation with Italian Trade Agency, has set up over the years an intensive program for increasing contacts between operators from the two Countries, including institutional and commercial missions in the Country and incoming missions of Ethiopian delegates in Italy. Moreover ACIMIT signed a MoU with the Ethiopian Textile Industry Development Institute in order to realize a textile technology center.

October/November 2017

Lenzing™ EcoVero™

the new standard in eco-responsible viscose

“With the viscose fiber EcoVero™ from Lenzing, we can offer our customers an eco-friendly solution for the viscose segment. We appreciate the high standard in Lenzing’s eco-friendly fiber production. Also, supply chain transparency is getting to be for us more and more important as customers want to know which kind of material is used for their garments. With the new identification technology from Lenzing, which is used in EcoVero™ fibers, we have full supply chain transparency. Our consumers can be sure that they are buying eco-responsible viscose garments” Anna Appelqvist, Brand Director - Gina Tricot

“We support Lenzing in their efforts of transitioning towards more sustainable viscose production. EcoVero™ fibers show concern for the origin of raw material as well as having a reduced environmental impact in the production process. We hope that this initiative will drive the development towards producing more sustainable viscose in the industry” Anna-Karin Dahlberg, Production Sustainability Manager - Lindex

“The German brand ARMEDANGELS Viscose fiber production had been taking the wrong way for long time. We are more than happy to see Lenzing taking now the right step and being a pioneer in the industry by offering the first clean and sustainable viscose fiber made from certified wood in a new and clean process with the highest standards. Allowing brands to identify the use of Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers in the final product is adding an increased level of trust in the supply chain, thus ensuring full traceability. As a radically responsible fashion brand this is a great match for us and we are excited to be working with Lenzing to include EcoVero™ in our future product range” Martin Höfeler, CEO - ARMEDANGELS

Mr Martin Höfeler, Ms Anna Appelqvist, Ms Anna-Karin Dahlberg at PV Paris

Lenzing™ EcoVeroTM branded viscose fibers from Lenzing, with its state-of-the-art identification technology, supports eco-responsible fashion retailers and brands to become more transparent, especially with sustainability-minded consumers. Well known retailers are teaming up with Lenzing to advance their sustainability strategies with traceable Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers. Transparency trending up in the textile industry Society’s environmental awareness has been growing steadily over the last decade, especially in October/November 2017

the fashion and textile industry. Consumers today expect responsible retailers and brands to know their supply chains and to be able to trace product origins. To meet these increasing consumer demands, the industry is anxiously looking for more sustainable and transparent supply chain solutions. With Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers, Lenzing launches unique environmentally friendly and traceable viscose fibers. A special manufacturing system enables Lenzing to identify Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers in the final product, long after the textile processing and conversion steps have been

completed. This ability to easily verify the original fibers means that retailers and brands can be sure that they are indeed incorporating Lenzing’s eco-responsible viscose fibers, and not just any generic viscose that might not be in line with their sustainability goals. With this special identification technology for Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers, Lenzing provides an one-of-its-kind solution for the fashion industry and its supply chain to respond to consumer demands for reliable visibility of product origins that can be traced back to the fiber. Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers the new benchmark in viscose fibers What makes Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers so eco-responsible? Lenzing enforces strict environmental standards during viscose production and has invested millions over the years to achieve eco-resposible production processes. Lenzing’s viscose production sites where Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers are made comply with the stringent guidelines of the EU Ecolabel, a world-leading environmental manufacturing standard. Lenzing is also very

transparent regarding raw material sourcing practices. Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers are made from wood. The wood comes from sustainable forestry plantations that are independently certified by industry-leading associations. Lenzing has a comprehensive wood sourcing policy that goes above and beyond the call of duty to ensure that the most sustainable wood sources are used for viscose production. Lenzing™ EcoVeroTM fibers set a new industry standard in sustainable viscose based on the use of these sustainable wood sources (FSC® or PEFC® certified) and an ecological production process with significantly lower emissions and water impacts than conventional viscose. Retailers and brands teaming up with Lenzing Leading industry brands and retailers are teaming up with Lenzing and are using Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers in their collections to improve transparency and traceability, two critical components of a verifiable sustainability strategy that is in line with the demands of today’s market.

Iran exhibition sees Swiss textile machinery firms build on symposium success

The Swiss Textile Machinery Association’s pavilion at Irantex provided a busy hub to stimulate business discussions and networking

For the first time ever in Iran, Switzerland’s textile machinery manufacturers exhibited in their own pavilion at the recent Irantex show, under the umbrella of their representative body the Swiss Textile Machinery Association (Swissmem). A total of 13 Swiss companies took part, reinforcing the impact of their successful symposium in Tehran last year. The exhibition, at the Tehran fairgrounds from September 4 to 7, attracted wide international participation, and Switzerland’s special pavilion – its first for a decade – helped its companies to make a strong impression on trade visitors. Business contacts were enhanced, and the Swiss exhibitor group was able to report that some notable project negotiations were finalised at the event. “Feedback was very positive,” said Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association. “Our companies valued their participation and the quality of business contacts, and the exhibition provided an excellent follow-up to our Iran symposium in 2016.” Swiss firms exhibiting were: Jakob Müller, Benninger, Willy Grob, G. Hunziker, Stäubli, Norsel, Retech, Heberlein, SSM, Luwa, Steiger Participations, Saurer, and Drop Chemicals. A highlight was the visit of Switzerland’s ambassador to Iran, Mr Markus Leitner, to the pavilion. He met with the Swiss exhibitors and discussed the opportunities and challenges of doing business with Iran. The reaction to the show from Benninger area sales October/November 2017

director Peter Vormbruck typified the enthusiasm of the Swiss exhibitors: “We found that customer interest in high-quality and technology-driven machinery was very positive,” he said. “There was even a strong desire to overcome the financial complexities to enable the Iranian industry to take advantage of the imported products. We were pleased to have some very open discussions on technology and opportunities in this important market of Iran.” Following the ending of most international sanctions on Iran at the start of 2016, there was a need to reintroduce and expand the financial and trade frameworks, to allow the Iranian textile sector to upgrade its technology levels. The 2016 symposium provided guidance on this issues via experts in the field, and this progress was continued at Irantex. In this context, consultant Verena Utzinger attended the show to support both Swiss and Iranian partners. She outlined the work of SERV, the Swiss Export Credit Insurance organisation, which secures exports of Swiss companies against political and transfer risks, as well as payment losses, and provides additional liquidity for specific export deals. She commented: “SERV has many years of very positive experience with Iranian buyers. At Irantex we were able to present the available services for transactions between Swiss and Iranian companies, and facilitate talks about the markets, politics and customs of Iran.”

Dye sublimation textile printer from Epson Epson has launched a new dye sublimation textile printer, the 1.6m-wide SureColor SC-F9300. Replacing the existing SC-F9200 flagship model, Epson's new SureColor SC-F9300 dye sublimation textile printer is designed primarily for fast, high-volume printing for clothing, textiles and soft signage, as well as other printed merchandise. The printer features new Epson Precision Dot technology for dye sublimation including a halftone module, look-up tables and micro-weave, while Epson's wide gamut CMYK input profile combined with UltraChrome DS inks is intended to ensure the maximum possible colour gamut, for accurate reproduction of even the most complex designs.Offering print speeds of up to 108mÂ˛/h, the SC-F9300 is designed to maximise uptime and eliminates problems such as cockling and head strike with its improved take-up and other reliability features. The SureColor SC-F9300 comes with Oeko-Tex Eco Passport certification and has passed Japan's AZO test for household products, meaning that clothing and textiles produced on the printer using UltraChrome DS inks are completely safe to wear for adults and children, including babies. "Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a challenge to top a product that is already incredibly reliable, very fast and produces extremely high quality prints," commented Epson UK sales manager professional printing solutions Phil McMullin. "Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s faster, with improved handling of even very thin substrates, and all but eradicating cockling and other common feeding problems." "Epson offers a complete solution - printer, inks, substrates, software and support - so everything is designed to work perfectly together. Combine that with straightforward setup and operation, and it's the ideal solution for print companies looking to move into dye sublimation, or those who want to update an earlier model," McMullin concluded. The SureColor SC-F9300 will be available from October 2017.

Alpha Ink R HD fulfills strict GOTS 5.0 guidelines Durst, manufacturer of advanced digital printing and production technology, has received the coveted GOTS certification in version 5.0 for its new reactive ink system Alpha Ink R HD. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the most exacting seal of approval for the entire textile production chain and is also acknowledged by consumers to be a reliable quality standard. Introduced in March 2017, version 5.0 of the standard must be implemented within twelve months by textile manufacturers in the areas of bio-production, textile processing and textile chemistry; it has further tightened the environment criteria right along the whole supply chain. The new guidelines refer to clothing and other textile products consisting of at least 70% certified organic fibers. All used chemicals including dyes and auxiliary substances must fulfill stipulated criteria in terms of environment and toxicology. Textiles produced according to the GOTS 5.0 guidelines give consumers the necessary transparency that these are sustainable products, which were also made under socially acceptable conditions.

Durst is one of the first inkjet printing system manufacturers to offer a GOTS 5.0 certified reactive ink system for the digital production of home textiles, clothing, accessories and furniture upholstery. The newly formulated Alpha Ink R HD reduces ink consumption by approx. 30% compared to Durst's existing reactive ink system. "Following the market success of our soft pigment ink system Alpha Ink P for sustainable, economic production based on universal applicability and a one-step process without pre- and post-treatment, we are now taking another step forward with GOTS 5.0 certification for the classic cotton production", says Martin Winkler, Segment Manager Durst Textile Printing. "Durst's Alpha Series and our excellent inks offer a perfect eco-system for digital textile production."

SPGPrints’ new Experience Center

Global digital textile industry innovation hub “The opening of the Experience Center marks our commitment to driving the adoption of the digital workflow. Not only will this provide the opportunity for brand-owners and printers to gain a first-hand, real-time insight into this technology’s tremendous potential; it will provide a dedicated space for further innovation in quality, productivity and sustainability, complementing our resources for the continued development of traditional rotary screen technologies." Dick Joustra CEO, SPGPrints

The mayor of Boxmeer, Karel van Soest (left) and SPGPrints CEO Dick Joustra (right) officially declare the Experience Center open for business

What is sustainability and why could be an opportunity to textile industry - In essence sustainable development is about five key principles: quality of life; fairness and equity; participation and partnership; care for our environment and respect for ecological constraints recognising that there are 'environmental limits'; and thought for the future and the precautionary principle. In order to create a sustainable textile & apparel industry, a number of challenges need to be addressed in different areas of the textile supply chain. What do textile business expect of tomorrow’s technologies - The performance enhancements October/November 2017

most expected regard the ability to cut energy costs for the production processes. A great deal of importance is related to the versatility of machinery with a significant implications both on energy consumption and the management of work processes. One of the priorities is also the reduction of chemical products for processes reducing the environmental impacts of many textile manufactures. Textiles production processes such as sizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing, and finishing are characterized by a huge consumption of water, energy, and chemicals. The toxic effluent discharge generated in these processes mainly contains by-products, residual

The PIKE® digital printer at SPGPrints’ new Experience Center, Boxmeer, The Netherlands

dyes, salts, acids and alkalis, auxiliary chemicals, and other solvents. Their discharge into neighboring water bodies is posing a serious threat to the flora and fauna. Is the demand for sustainable textile additives high in the market - The demand from product companies on sustainable and non¬toxic chemistry is very strong. Many of the major players in the apparel industry have gone public with their intention to phase out conventional chemicals. Textile manufacturers supplying the apparel industry need to cope with these restrictions and are therefore investing heavily into the implementation of eco-friendly products. Encourage initiatives, project innovation and provide incentives could be the policy key points for the development and take-up of environmentally friendlier textiles. How is Laros changing to reach these changes Textile processing is the major source of industrial water pollution across the world, and sizing and desizing operations account for nearly 30% of the water consumed in a textile plant. Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is the non-degradable synthetic polymer that dominates sizing chemical market with 2.5% global share, and leads to severe pollution. To mitigate environmental problems caused by non-biodegradable synthetic polymers, using natural macromolecules as replacements is a feasible approach. Laros has established a strong cooperation between research institutions (i.e. ENEA) and universities (i.e. Polytechnic University of Milan) to develop new biodegradable products with similar properties like PVA. The strong cooperation between company technical skills and several research teams in the world is the key aspect of Laros’s green horizon.

What are the new requests for the future green textile companies like Laros - Certifications for textile companies are important for the near future of “sustainable industry” at low environmental impact. The aim of the standards (like GOTS) is to define world-wide recognized requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer. Therefore, textile manufacturers are enabled to export their organic fabrics and garments with one certification accepted in all major markets. Another example is the Detox campaign, that since July 2011 has mobilised hundreds of thousands of people around the world to challenge major clothing brands to eliminate all releases of hazardous chemicals from their supply chains and products. In the last years, Laros is extremely active to meet these market requests from its international fashion companies. What could be the role of research organisations to increase the companies competitiveness Universities/research organisations and industry have been collaborating for over a century, but the rise of a global knowledge economy has intensified the need for strategic partnerships that go beyond the traditional funding of research projects. When companies and universities work in tandem to push the frontiers of knowledge, they become a powerful engine for innovation and economic growth. The assiduous participation in R&D and technology transfer projects at national and European level have allowed at many organizations to consolidate a vast network of links and collaborations, with important industrial companies, universities, research centres and companies service operating in Italy, Europe and wordwide. October/November 2017

Living The Digital Dream LaRio Single-Pass Ink-Jet Printer: Next-generation textile-printing technology from MS Printing Solutions to grow business and to optimize operating costs “Eventually digital printing will be accepted like seal belts in a car” Paolo Milni, MS Printing Solutions. “Customer have said to us that I came to you because you have a LaRio.” Federico Curti, President Stamperia di Cassina Rizzardi (SCR)

Federico Curti, President of Stamperia Di Cassina Rizzardi (SCR), and his son, Lino, Vice President of Operations

We all remember the days when film cameras were at the cutting edge of photographic technology. They ascended to those heights because the film was easy to load, use and develop, especially when compared to the old days when cumbersome photographic plates and darkrooms were required to produce a photographic image. Photographic technology took another gigantic leap forward when the digital camera was invented, which eliminated the need for film, the trip to the store to get the film developed and even the uncertainty of how the pictures would turn out. But as with anything new, users who have grown October/November 2017

accustomed to the old ways can be leery of the new. Some textile printers in the fashion industry fell into this camp when new digital textile printing came onto the market some 15 years ago. Though they could see the benefits of digital printing, they were still married to the old screen or rotogravure (rotary) printing technologies. This means that they may be consciously forsaking the advantages in terms of optimized printing times, costs and, most significantly, quality that converting to next generation digital ink-jet printing machines can provide. “It’s a very conservative industry and they are not really open to the change; some people still don’t consider digital as an industrial solution,” said

Paolo Milini, Vice President, Sales & Business Development for MS Printing Solutions S.r.l., Caronno Petrusella, Italy, a developer of digital ink-jet printing systems. “Implementing new technology takes time, but eventually digital printing will become accepted like seat belts in a car.” To illustrate that reluctance, though digital textile printing has been a viable technology for nearly 10 years the latest usage figures indicate that it accounted for just 3% of the textile-printing market in 2015. Despite that, some industry insiders are confident that rate will grow to 20% of the market by the end of 2020. Taking The Digital Leap One company that has fully embraced the idea of digital textile printing is Stamperia di Cassina Rizzardi, or SCR. The company originated in Como,

colors are better on traditional printers and prefer to still print on rotary machines. We don’t think we’ll go back, however. We’ll keep our rotary machine and screen table, but it’s more expensive and complicated; we think it’s crazy to do traditional printing today. To elaborate on his point, Curti noted that in 2007 not a single meter of textile printing done by SCR was digital, but by 2011, 50% of the company’s printing was of the digital variety, and he estimates that as much as 80% of the printing will be done digitally in 2016. In addition to higher print quality, there are several other significant benefits to digital printing – most notably, savings in time and space, faster print speeds and the ability to print with both reactive inks, which are used with fabrics like wool, cotton and silk, and disperse inks, which must be used with polyester. The most notable benefit of the LaRio’s ability to dispense both types of inks from the same machine is that the changeover time between inks is only 10 minutes, compared to 120 minutes associated with traditional printing. Additional Benefits of Digital Printing: - The time and resources needed to prepare and clean the components (screens, cylinders, etc.) on traditional machines are eliminated. “There is a big difference with water usage. When you print with digital, you need nothing, just put the fabric on the machine,” said Curti. “With traditional printing, you have to put an order into the color kitchen; you have to mix the ink, have to prepare the cylinders, and have to clean the screens. Then the color kitchen

The MS LaRio not only revolutionizes the textile-printing process, but it can be controlled from anywhere in the world via iPad, iPhone or any other handheld device.

Italy, in 1947, but relocated in 1984 to the northern Italian town of Cassina Rizzardi, which is about a 40-minute drive from the European fashion hub of Milan. SCR is unique among textile printers in that the company not only does third-party printing for many recognizable high-end fashion labels (some of whom, in a bit of irony, prefer their fabrics to still be printed with rotary printers), while also designing and selling its own proprietary fabric designs. “We are going through a revolution with digital printing, and digital printing has completely changed the market,” explained Federico Curti, President of SCR. “The colors, shades, fastness of the ink are much better with digital. Some of our customers say that the

Since the printing heads on the MS LaRio are fixed, there can be no loss of alignment as the ink is dispensed, which helps eliminate printing errors.

may be closed, or a cylinder may break, which will delay the print run at least 24 hours. October/November 2017

- Changeover time between production runs is greatly reduced. “You only need time to change fabrics, around 10 minutes, and if you don’t need to change fabrics, it takes one minute to change the digital files versus 120 minutes for traditional printing,” marveled Lino Curti, Federico’s son and SCR’s Vice President of Operations. - Digital printing allows for faster printing speeds, but with no loss in printing quality. “The quality is the same no matter what speed you print at and the speed is capped only by the rate that the ink can be injected,” said Lino Curti. - SCR used to need 3,000 square meters (10,000 square feet) of space to store its printing screens and cylinders, but without the need for those traditional printing components, that space can now be used to store more fabrics. A Perfect Partnership SCR’s conversion to digital printing was aided by having a partner that was committed to the cause in MS Printing Solutions. After being in business for nearly two decades as a designer, developer and distributor of screen and rotary technologies for use in high-end, roll-to-roll textile printing, Luigi Milini made the critical, forward-thinking decision in 2002 to deemphasize the old technologies and go all in on the digital-printing revolution. MS Printing Solutions, which was acquired by Dover Corporation, Downers Grove, IL, USA, in 2014, produced its last conventional machine in 2007 after building around 2,000 of the machines between 1983 and 2007. SCR firmly entered the digital-printing universe in 2007 with the purchase of 10 MS JP5 Ink Jet Digital Printers from MS Printing Solutions, which at the time could print at a maximum speed of 20 linear meters an hour. Today, the same machines can print at 100 linear meters per hour max. The company later added a pair of larger MS JP7 models with a maximum printing speed of 335 linear meters an hour. Those purchases, though, were just the

Though SCR still does a great deal of its textile printing with traditional rotary machines (foreground), the addition of the MS LaRio will help put the company at the forefront of the digital-printing revolution.

appetizer before the main course. Luigi Milini began October/November 2017

developing what he would eventually call the MS LaRio in 1996 (LaRio is the name of the northernmost of the three branches of nearby Lake Como; in fact, the stylistic “A” in the graphic representation of the LaRio name is an outline of the famous lake). Nearly a decade-and-a-half later, in 2010, the LaRio was launched as the world’s first “single pass” digital printer. One look at the capabilities that the LaRio, which is the only single-pass digital printer in the world that works with both reactive and disperse inks, would bring to his printing operation and Federico Curti was sold. “In 2015, we started thinking about the single pass because the market was changing and we needed to break out of the market,” he said. “It was emotional to go with the LaRio, we thought it was crazy, but here we are. We saw that single pass could be a new way for us to improve digital printing. The LaRio is incredible. We can do 40 to 50 meters (131 to 164 feet) per minute, double the speed of rotary, with none of the problems of rotary printing.” “The LaRio is like two machines in one,” added Lino Curti. “The quality is the same no matter what speed you print at, and we’re currently printing at 35 meters (114 feet) per minute, while the LaRio has a maximum of 75 meters (246 feet). And with the LaRio the heads are stable, the alignment is fixed; with other types of printing it can be hard to print in the same spot.” Coupled with an equally large MS Maxi-D Fabric Dryer from MS Printing Solutions, the LaRio setup takes up an entire wall in SCR’s printing shop, but with the space saved through the elimination of the need for screen storage, it looks like a natural fit in the facility. Conclusion Confronting change can always be a scary proposition, but when it can be accomplished with a trusted partner at your side, the task is made easier. Federico and Lino Curti knew digital textile printing was the future and they also knew that MS Printing Solutions was a trendsetter in the transition to the new technology, with the LaRio setting a new standard within that realm. This year alone, SCR anticipates it will print two million meters (6.6 million feet) of fabric on the LaRio machine out of the more than seven million meters (23 million feet) it will produce this year. “We feel the market is very interested in SCR now because we have a LaRio,” said Federico Curti. “Customers have said to us that I came to you because you have a LaRio. The market is happy we have a LaRio; it has helped us change our approach to the market.”

Articles

Boost your mill performance

In close contact with the customer Rieter After Sales conveys extensive know-how for a successful future.

Author

Massimiliano Biganzoli Solutions Manager After Sales massimiliano.biganzoli@rieter.com

October/November 2017

In a highly competitive environment such as the textile industry, staying competitive is of utmost importance. With a mill assessment, Rieter After Sales analyses the customer's spinning mill and develops solutions for a successful optimisation.

evaluate the current performance of the entire mill including organisational aspects. Our specialists collect data, evaluate the process conditions, study the machine history and maintenance records and observe work practices in all process stages (Fig. 2). This process typically requires 3-5 days.

Rieter offers, based on particular customer needs, solutions to increase productivity, improve yarn quality, reduce energy consumption or extend lifetime of the spinning system. Optimising the original investment Over the life cycle of a spinning system, the machines encounter several phases. As shown in figure 1, the equipment reaches its initial full potential at commissioning (according to order); afterwards, performance typically slowly diminishes over time based on wear and tear of its components.

Rieter specialists collect data and analyse the complete spinning mill.

Based on this thorough analysis, a report is drawn up including suggestions for corrections and adjustments and a range of solutions from process optimisation and reorganisation to wear and tear parts and conversions. Rieter’s continuous innovations allow the improvement of the machine performance beyond its original capabilities.

Through proper maintenance by mill personnel or Rieter specialists as well as timely replacement of wear and tear parts through original Rieter spare parts, the level of performance of the machine remains at an acceptable level throughout its lifetime. Rieter’s continuous innovations in spinning technology lead to the availability of upgrades and conversions, allowing the improvement of the machine performance beyond its original capabilities. With a mill assessment, Rieter brings in an expert team to assess the settings and status of the spinning system and develops recommendations based on specific customer requirements and solutions available from Rieter Mill assessment – customised solutions Through a detailed inspection of the entire spinning system at the customer’s site, our team of experts

Maximizing your production output Customers know they can rely on Rieter After Sales to offer solutions with sustaining value (Fig. 3). In one specific example, Rieter conducted a mill assessment and was able to subsequently develop recommendations leading to a production increase of up to 10 %. The findings included: • adaptation of end spinning machines (technology, components and automation), • rebalance of upstream process capacities, • modification of complete blow room for high production of complete line. The quality of the yarn delivered would remain unchanged and the return on investment would be only 1.5 years. Your competitiveness is our focus Rieter After Sales is focusing on the long-term competitiveness of customers, consulting them to achieve maximising returns on their original investment with a wide portfolio of products and services.

October/November 2017

Reports

Inkjet printing

Printing Prospects

Conductive inks for e-Textiles Industry data shows that after a decade of advances in digital printing technologies for textile, only 2% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s printed textiles are produced digitally. Most of digital printing on textiles is done today mainly on polyester fabrics using dye sublimation. e-Textiles or smart garments, smart clothing, electronic textiles, smart textiles, or smart fabrics; have a digital component or electronics embedded within them. While it may still be in its infancy, it is a fast-growing market with new capabilities being developed that will enable users to interact with their surroundings and to communicate data via embedded sensors or conductive yarn through the clothes they wear. e-Textiles are impacting the October/November 2017

development of the printed electronics industry. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re new and novel, and the business opportunities they present are growing exponentially. Recent advances, such as embroidering circuits into fabric or transparent sensor material that can be printed on to textiles, are helping to create a range of technologies that bring together the clothing, technology and textile industries to create fabrics with capabilities for users as varied as athletes, patients, soldiers and ordinary consumers. Most of the current wearable technologies rely on rigid electronic components mounted on flexible materials such as plastic films or textiles. These offer limited

compatibility with the skin in many circumstances, are damaged when washed and are uncomfortable to wear because they are not breathable. Wearable, textiles-based electronics present new possibilities for flexible circuits, healthcare and environment monitoring, energy conversion, and many others. Electronic textiles (e-Textiles) are innovative textile materials, (fabrics, yarns and threads), that incorporate conductive fibres or elements directly in/on to the textile substrate. These materials eliminate wires and hard electronics, and the resultant products are soft and tactile. Current technologies include weaving of separate metal

in flexible printed electronic devices such as transistors and oscillators. Apart from the obvious requirements of conductivity, fine line resolution, adhesion and flexibility, the new applications require stretchability, washability and formability, Silver nanoparticles (NPs) as inkjet printing inks are the most reported and utilised conductive inks because of their excellent electrical conductivity and strong antioxidant characteristics. However higher concentration of NPs and higher sintering temperatures are required in order to obtain continuous metallic phase, which increase processing cost and limit the choice of substrates to

Inkjet printing

threads into the textile, printing/deposition of conductive polymers, printing metallic inks on to the surface, plasma deposition on the threads and electroless plating. Inkjet printing is one of the most promising techniques for the fabrication of wearable electronics due to number of advantages over conventional manufacturing techniques such as digital and additive patterning, reduction in material waste, deposition of controlled amount of materials and compatibility with various substrates. The requirement of conductive inks can be divided into two categories based on their use. First, there are transparent conductive inks for applications such as replacement of indium tin oxide, photonic and optical devices, display, solar cells, and touchscreens. Second, there are conductive inks for interconnects

be printed because of their heat sensitivity. Conductive inks are useful for a range of applications, including printed and flexible electronics such as radio frequency identification (RFID) antennas, transistors or photovoltaic cells. The advent of the internet of things is predicted to lead to new connectivity within everyday objects, including in food packaging. Thus, there is a clear need for cheap and efficient production of electronic devices, using stable, conductive and non-toxic components. These inks can also be used to create novel composites, coatings and energy storage devices. In the past, DuPont Microcircuit Materials (DuPont) introduced a suite of stretchable electronic ink materials for use in smart clothing applications and other wearable electronics. The materials provide an elegant, manufacturing-ready alternative to many traditional methods of embedding electronics in October/November 2017

clothing. These stretchable electronic inks deliver stable performance despite repeated elongation. A third-party evaluation of fabrics that incorporate these DuPont materials to create thin electronic circuits have shown them to be washable, durable, and capable of withstanding up to 100 wash cycles. These DuPont materials can be used in many common manufacturing processes to produce smart clothing, including fitness and outerwear, without significant investment.

large areas. The conductive tracks are produced in a four-step process and one of these can be patterned using an inkjet printer. Inkjet printing of graphene-based conductive inks is an encouraging research approach in the field of printed electronics as both the benefits of inkjet printing and extraordinary electronic, optical and mechanical properties of graphene can be exploited and has recently been an active field of research.

Inkjet printing

Crucially, smart fabrics will require devices to be connected, much like with a PCB. National Physics Laboratory UK developed a new method for producing conductive textiles which could end up turning a fabric into, effectively, a wearable PCB, connecting all the active parts of the wearable. It can be applied to almost all woven and knitted fabrics. This technique could make the integration of electronics simple and practical by enabling lightweight circuits to be printed directly onto complete garments. The methodology binds, chemically, a catalyst to the fibre â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a nanometal seed layer, and can be applied at any stage of the manufacturing process. It is highly conductive, provides excellent flexibility and can be used on

October/November 2017

Graphene is carbon in the form of single-atom-thick membranes, and is highly conductive. The graphene-based inks can be applied onto cotton to produce a conductive textile. The work, published in the journal Carbon, demonstrates a wearable motion sensor based on the conductive cotton. The adhesion of the modified graphene to the cotton fibre is similar to the way cotton holds coloured dyes, and allows the fabric to remain conductive after several washes. The printing, especially digital printing, of conductive inks on to textile substrate is an active research area and has the potential to revolutionise the e-Textiles arena and can offer a multitude of opportunities for smart clothing and flexible electronics applications.

Sustainable Denim Finishing

Jeanologia

About 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing, According to Textile Exchange. With this growing realization of need to have sustainable products and looking at this huge impact of textile industry on the environment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; of which denim is an important segment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the natural way forward is only devising new products, ways and processes which can help in reducing the environmental footprint of textiles. Denim finishing is one of the processes utilized to give a certain look to the jeans. There are many techniques used for denim finishing such as, stone wash, mill wash, moon wash, bleach, distressed look, whisker effect, 3D effect, PP spray, sandblast, etc. The dry finishing can create many effects on denim which has enticed the customers and enhanced its prospect in the denim market. Laser wash is an exceptional method which can create extraordinary jeans and reduce the environmental impact of this industry. In laser wash, there is no use of water, stones or sand to wash the jeans. The wash is done using laser which goes across the October/November 2017

jeans and burns the wash into them. The process is very quick and the washes look amazing. This water-free technology can give much wanted 'distressed' or 'vintage' look to the denim. It is the fastest growing and accepted technique in the denim market, as this technology has made denims go green. This method creates patterns like dots, lines, text and even images which are executed through computer managed process.

Jeanologia TWIN HS

Concept and Technology Jeanologia designs & develops laser and ecosystems that: • Enhance industrial productivity • Provide Energy Efficiency • Reduce Water Consumption • Eliminate damaging emissions and waste The two key technologies are laser and eco finishing. As evident by name, lasers are applied to finish denim and the company is global leader with 85% market share in this segment. In Eco finishing, ozone and nano-technology based solutions are exist for sustainable denim finishing. The laser technology can bring savings of up to 70% I water consumption, 60% of energy and 80% of chemicals at a production rate of 200 jeans pairs per hour. eFlow is an eco-technology – one glass of water, one garment which offers up to 95% reduction in water consumption compared to conventional processes requiring 70 litres. Air from the atmosphere is converted into nanobubbles. Products and water naturally distribute forming the nanobubble skin. Please visit/scan the following exemplar links for video demos.

e-Flow (Eco) https://youtu.be/oqCBqKluGH8

Company Jeanologia is a multi-cultural / multilingual company with more than 120 technical and creative people with one common passion: innovation. Located in Valencia (Headquarters), Barcelona (laser production factory) and Izmir (service & development centre) Jeanologia is today composed by a team with abroad experience in laser and eco-efficient technologies. Jeanologia has 1700 m2 Production Centre, and has developed some of the most revolutionary industrial laser machinery in the world. This has been done not only for the textile industry but also for applications such as marking, id coding + tracking, engraving, cutting, welding, micro-welding, surface treatments, micro-perforation and pre-cutting, in a wide variety of sectors: packaging, foodstuffs and beverages, leather, metal, ceramics as well as pharmaceuticals. In Valencia, Jeanologia has R&D facilities. A laboratory, a laundry room and a fully equipped hi-tech machinery, which are a for research and prototype development by international brands and customers. At Sant Quirze production facilities, the latest laser technologies are developed. In Turkey, Jeanologia has teams and facilities prepared to give service to local production platforms as well as to a vast geographic area. The company also has a local technical centre in Pakistan.

Jeanologia Laser Twin HS

Twin HS (Laser) https://youtu.be/OfbjVqtR338

October/November 2017

FESPA Global Print Expo

the leading globally connected imaging community re-investing its profits for the purpose of inspiring, educating and growing the industry The next edition of FESPA Global Print Expo is all set for display in Messe Berlin, Germany from 15th to 18th of May 2018. The event is expected to cover about 9 hall of the Berlin Messe showcasing screen, digital and textile printing solutions. FESPA 2018 will again be co-located with European Sign Expo for non-printed visual communication solutions. The FESPA is a global federation of 37 national associations for the screen printing digital printing and textile printing communities and is providing an extensive platform for the industry experts to meet share, display and collaborate about the latest advancements brought in the industry. Founded in 1962, FESPA organizes the leading exhibitions and conferences for this community. Since its inception over 50 years ago, FESPA has been supporting the print community via successful exhibitions, events and publications, providing education and networking opportunities. Successful worldwide events of FESPA generate profits which are reinvested for the benefit of the global print community. Via extensive network of 37 national associations, FESPA supports hundreds of projects each year to educate and grow the industry. Headquartered in Surrey, UK and with offices in Mexico and Turkey and partners in Brazil and South Africa, FESPA is working with a team of experts who have diverse and extensive experience. Some of the most appreciated upcoming event from FESPA for which the details are as follow; October/November 2017

FESPA Mexico 2017 The event is scheduled to be held on November 16-18, 2017 in the Mexico City and this special edition of the exhibition promises to be the best till now. The event is the largest dedicated exhibition for the print and graphic arts industry in Mexico and Central America to discover the market potential. The visitors of the event will have the opportunity to gain new business ideas and meet with suppliers and manufacturers from the digital wide format, screen printing, garment decoration, signage, print finishing, software and 3D printing sectors. The visitors of the event will have access to all 3 days of the show and will have the opportunity to witness the brand new product launches, live equipment demonstrations, free seminars, to take advantage of the networking breaks and the chance to discover market trends for the year 2017 and 18.

FESPA Eurasia 2017 The event is scheduled to be held from December

7-10, 2017 at the Merkezi, yesilkoy-Bakirkoy, Istanbul. the event is the region’s leading wide format digital printing, screen printing, signage, textile printing and garment decoration exhibition that provides the market with a complete range of solutions for the digital printing community right from the commercial printing to wide format signage solutions. The exhibition provides a comprehensive display of the latest product solutions from over 400 brands with innovative ideas to enhance your business performance and profitability. It also offers free educational features and live workshops and demonstrations. More information can be found at www.fespaeurasia.com.

FESPA Asia 2018 Planned to be held from February 22-24, 2018 in Bangkok, Thailand, it is a key event for the Asian print service providers to source the latest equipment, software and consumables in a single yet vibrant location. The event focus on the wide format digital, textile and screen printing with a focus to serve the Asian region by providing them an easy yet comprehensive access to the latest technological innovation in the printed graphics and signage industry. At the same time it hosts educational content to share the global trends and knowledge.

FESPA Global Print Expo The event is planned to be held from May 15-18, 2018 in Messe Berlin. Roz Guarnori, (née McGuinness) divisional director, FESPA, comments: “We always consult with our exhibitors on the location of our shows and Berlin was one of the favorites. We’ve received positive reactions from October/November 2017

exhibitors for the Berlin event, which is evident from the floor space already booked and optioned, even before FESPA 2017 began. “Berlin is a favorite city as many of our exhibitors have positive memories of our last Berlin event back in 2007. It is the capital and largest city in Germany and the seventh largest in Europe, and a world renowned center for culture, politics, media and science. Importantly, Berlin is a continental air and rail traffic hub, accessible from all Major European and international cities.” Throughout the event, thousands of print service providers and sign-makers from around the globe will be gathering to the exhibition venue to see the latest innovations in technology and consumables from more than 1,000 supplier brands, and will witness dozens of product launches. FESPA European Sign Expo 2018 The event is set to showcase from May 15-18, 2018 in Berlin. The Euorpean Sign Expo is Europe’s largest annual exhibition dedicated to the signage and visual communications industry. Planned to be held in the vibrant city of Berlin, Germany, visitors can be assured to find the very latest developments in technology, software, tools, applications and industry trends. All signage and visual communications professionals; sign-makers, advertising agencies, retailers, sign and display producers, installers and those looking to enter the signage market, are invited to visit and be inspired by world class exhibitors. Berlin Messe, one of the leading conference organizers, is in an accessible position, located just a 10 minute car journey from Berlin airport. This makes it easily reachable for international visitors and just a short journey from the city center, which is home to over 750 hotels. Last session of FESPA at Berlin attracted a large number of audiences from Eastern Europe, especially Poland and Russia, in addition to the traditional core audience from Western Europe. More information about FESPA and the event can be seen at www.fespa2017.com

Whats New

such compounds is questionable with respect to possible adverse ecological and toxicological effects. In addition, these compounds are generally expensive, said is so by the Hohenstein Group reports. A new research project at the Hohenstein Group deals with antimicrobial effects of Lewis acids that are applied on textile surfaces. According to the information provided by the group, the results of this work may significantly contribute to countermeasures against multi-resistant bacteria as found, for example, in medical facilities.

New antimicrobial solution for textiles

Anti-microbial protection is something demanded both in professional and personal life. Such effect on textile surfaces is recently achieved by using silver or ammonium containing compounds. However, the use of

Lewis acids exhibit an acidic surface effect and an antimicrobial effect has been demonstrated as well. Therefore, these compounds can already be found in applications such as the cleaning of floors in hospitals. However, they have not been applied on textile surfaces. In presence of moisture, Lewis acids (metal oxides, e.g. zinc oxide) generate low pH-values on their surfaces resulting in antimicrobial effects comparable to the natural protective acid mantle of human skin. Compared to commercially available antimicrobial substances, Lewis acids have proven to be useful against different pathogens like fungi, bacteria and even viruses. Furthermore, they have found to be very effective and stable even during exposure to human sweat and proteins. Besides, estimations suggest that the use of Lewis acids in antimicrobial textile coatings may result in cost-reductions of up to 90%.

Introducing Lycra Bra Fabric Finder

Invista says it has developed the Lycra Bra Fabric Finder in response to the current consumer-driven shift towards casual bras. Invista, owner of the original elastane Lycra fibre, aims to strengthen its leadership position in the intimate apparel category with the development of a new proprietary tool: the Lycra Bra Fabric Finder.

First of all, casual bra designers identify the desired October/November 2017

comfort and support level they need: Active fabrics are meant for high support and medium comfort; Everyday fabrics grant a mix between comfort and support; Leisure fabrics provide high comfort and medium support. This is then followed by the shaping type â&#x20AC;&#x201C; either natural shaping for a softer, truer silhouette, or power shaping for more defined curves. Then, they can

select the appropriate certified fabric to meet their needs. Fabric goes through a rigorous testing process to ensure it meets the predetermined parameters of

each IP-protected index. As a result, designers will be able to create the perfect casual bra that delivers the shape and support women need, and the comfort they want, the company explains.

Gerber’s AutoMatch™ for apparel reduces labor by 50%

Auto-Match for apparel provides cutting accuracy ensuring that stripes, plaids or other patterns flow seamlessly from a bodice to a sleeve and throughout any garment without interruption. Testing of Auto-Match comes with some impressive statistics including a reduction in labor costs by as much as 50 percent while increasing throughput and improvements in cut part accuracy. “Pattern continuity is a hallmark of quality for the fashion industry. However, ensuring continuity can be extremely time consuming and prone to errors, adding significant time and cost with wasted materials and labor associated with re-cutting. The Auto-Match technology captures a piece of fabric in a single digital image and automatically corrects for placement errors, pattern repeat variations and distortions. Auto-Match is accurate and repeatable, and most importantly, it can help apparel manufacturers slash costs over conventional methods that rely on teams of operators to manually align patterns before cutting. Traditional matching methods require highly-skilled workers and rely solely on the human eye for accuracy. In addition to being time consuming, the manual

system is costly and more likely to result in waste as a result of poorly matched patterns. In addition to ensuring greater accuracy, Auto-Match helps manufacturers save on labor costs: The system utilizes a single operator, and – unlike the manual alignment method – it does not require extensive training or labor skilled in apparel design and pattern matching. Visit Gerber Technology in stand E2-A22 at CISMA to see Auto-Match and other industry-leading solutions that help ensure accuracy, optimize productivity, maximize material utilization and minimize labor costs. Gerber Technology delivers industry-leading software and automation solutions that help apparel and industrial customers improve their manufacturing and design processes and more effectively manage and connect the supply chain, from product development and production to retail and the end customer. Gerber serves 78,000 customers in 130 countries, including more than 100 Fortune 500 companies in apparel & accessories, home and leisure, transportation, packaging and sign & graphics. The company develops and manufactures its products from various locations in the United States and Canada and has additional manufacturing capabilities in China. October/November 2017

Whats New

Hyperlite mountain gear expands into technical apparel

Hyperlite Mountain Gear, a manufacturer of 100% USA-made ultralight outdoor equipment, is launching its first-ever outerwear product with The Shell, an ultralight technical jacket weighing between 5.16 and 6.20 ounces, depending on the size. All Hyperlite Mountain Gear products utilise Dyneema fabrics; materials incorporated with the strongest man-made fibres that are 15 times stronger than steel in weight per weight ratio. Working closely with Dyneema, St. Pierre helped test

and refine a highly durable, waterproof breathable fabric for The Shell ultralight technical jacket. Known as Dyneema Composite Fabrics with waterproof breathable properties, also known as DCF-WPB, the fabric is said to achieve the optimal balance of weight and durability consistent with all Hyperlite Mountain Gear products, while the eVent membrane provides the waterproof, windproof and high-breathability characteristics achieved through eVent’s patented air permeable waterproof technology.

Enhanced silk, strong as carbon fibre A team of scientist led by Nicola Pungo at the University of Trento-Italy, have successfully combined the spider silk with the grapheme and carbon nano-tubes, resulting in production of a composite material that is five times stronger. This silk incorporated graphene and carbon nanotubes are produced by spider spinning, after feeding spiders with water containing the nanotubes, said the Sydney Morning Herald report. The study states in its final reports that; “Spiders placed in an environment with water solutions containing nanotubes or graphene may produce dragline silk with enhanced mechanical properties, realizing the highest fibre toughness to date, combined with a strength comparable to that of October/November 2017

the strongest carbon fibres or of limpet teeth.” The report further states that; “Our proof-of-concept experiment paves the way to exploiting the naturally efficient spider spinning process to produce reinforced silk fibres, thus further improving one of the most promising silk materials, as compared to synthetic recombinant silks.” “This procedure of natural integration of reinforcements in biological structural materials could also be applied to other animals and plants, leading to a new class of bionicomposites for innovative applications” it added.

Cotton that is grown to glow Since the Eli Whitney’s gin, the glowing cotton is believed to be the biggest advancement in cotton technology. The scientists have found a way to augment the fibers with useful new properties. Around 7 to 8 thousand year ago the humans figured out these natural fibers of the cotton plants produce could be spun into strands and can also be woven into fabrics. During the Industrial revolution and even after that, cotton remained one of the most valuable commodities of the world. It has also helped to drive the slave trade in the European and African regions.

stand a bit about how the biochemistry works and you respect that, then you’ll be able to integrate new functionality and eventually create new materials,” he says. The group of scientist just modified the glucose molecules and the cotton ovules did all the work of incorporating them into the fibers.

According to Filipe Natalio, a chemist at the Weizmann Institute of Science in Israel, cotton can still do better, even thou it is already considered as the most divers and marvelous commodity on earth. Natalio demonstrates a way to enhance cotton with new properties in a new paper in Science. He’s made fibers that glow and fibers that are magnetic. His team of researchers in Israel, Germany, and Austria used sugar molecules to sneak new properties into cotton. They tested the method by tagging glucose with a fluorescent dye molecule that glows green when hit with the right kind of light. They bathed cotton ovules—the part of the plant that makes the fibers—in the glucose. And just like flowers suck up dyed water in grade school experiments, the ovules absorbed the sugar solution and piped the tagged glucose molecules to their cells. As the fibers grew, they took on a yellowish tinge—and glowed bright green under ultraviolet light. Later the group took about six months to be sure they were actually delivering the fluorescent protein into the cotton cells and not just coating the fibers in it. Once they were certain, they decided to push the envelope with something very unnatural: magnets. In the next try the team of Natalio modified glucose with the rare earth metal dysprosium, making a molecule that acts like a magnet. And just like they did with the dye, the researchers fed it to cotton ovules and ended up with fibers with magnetic properties. It’s not going to make a t-shirt you can decorate like your refrigerator, but that’s not the only use for magnetism. Almost all digital storage is done magnetically—in your phone, your computer, Amazon’s servers. According to Natalio this research shows the power of adapting natural processes. “If you under-

There were a number of other researches conducted in the past to deal with the construction of augmented fibers. But past work has mostly been on synthetic fibers, like polyester, and has focused on coating the fibers rather than embedding the functionality inside them. Natalio argues that his approach is sturdier—the modifications his group made are fundamental to the fibers and can’t be worn away. They said that their paper does show some evidence that the additions they made might change cotton’s properties for the worse. A number of other experiments were done to add different functionalities to the cotton. The reason for these researches is the belief that cotton could be dyed blue before it’s picked, simplifying the production of blue jeans. Natalio also envisions cotton plants with unique molecular signatures, like barcodes. That would let manufacturers track their fabric from the seed to stores so they could promise their products were fully organic or 100% fair trade. October/November 2017

January 26-28, 2018 Venue: Expo Center Karachi, Pakistan. DPS World 2017 Pakistan’s premium Digital Printing & Signage exhibition October 20-22, 2017 Venue: Expo Center Lahore, Pakistan.

BCI 2017 Pakistan Pakistan regional members meeting. October 25, 2017 Venue: Pearl Continental Hotel Lahore, Pakistan.

IBCE 2017 International Business Conference and Exhibition October 28-30, 2017 Venue: Expo Center Lahore, Pakistan.

ICTT 2017 International Conference on Technical Textiles November 9-10, 2017 Venue: National Textile University Faisalabad, Pakistan.

Shanghaitex 2017 The 18th International Exhibition on Textile Industry November 27-30, 2017 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, China.

GTex Global Expo Karachi An international Textile Machinery Brand Expo

August/September 2017

ITM 2018 International Textile Machinery exhibition April 14-17, 2018 Venue: TÜYAP Fair Convention and Congress Center, Istanbul – Turkey.

IGATEX Lahore 2018 International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition April 26-29, 2018 Venue: Expo Centre Lahore, Pakistan.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 An International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition October 26-30, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) Shanghai, China.

ITMA 2019 The world's largest international textile machinery exhibition June 20-26, 2019 Venue: Barcelona, Spain.

textalks.com/category/events.

See live demonstrations of MS Italy machines at Hall 2 20-22 October 2017 Expo Centre Lahore

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