October/November 2018
The potential of Industry 4.0 some significant new developments by Monforts
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Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Ezzah Aqeel Alexandros Ali Khan Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Marketing Manager Kaiynat Khan Saeed Ahmed Layouts Faizan Khan Marketing Incharge Abdul Mughees Adddress C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 expecting 100,000 participants; A modest increase in textile exports; Global Yarn and fabric production decreased in first quarter of 2018 The sixth edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 is gearing up for another huge exhibition in Shanghai, China with a participant’s expectation of approximately 100,000 from around the world. 1700 local and international textile machinery manufacturers from 28 countries are expected to demonstrate their latest machinery as well as other products that boost automation and energy saving features. Mr Wang Shutian, president of China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), said, “The strong demand for space attests to the effectiveness and popularity of the combined show. We had a long waiting list for space by the deadline for applications. Therefore, we made the decision to book the additional space available in the venue.” In August 2018, the textile exports continuously inched up as value added product segments witnessed a moderate growth whereas, there was also an increase in exports of cotton yarn and cloth. The textile exports hiked by 4pc in the second month of fiscal year 2019 on year to year basis. The figures were slightly higher for August 2018 that saw the overall textile exports grow by 7pc compared to August 2018. Global yarn production has decreased by 9pc between the
fourth quarter of 2017 and first quarter of 2018. The Increase of 12pc in Brazil has been cancelled out by reductions in production in Africa, Asia and Europe by 13pc, 11pc and 1.5pc respectively. Most responding countries from Africa, Asia, and North America are optimistic about the evolution in second quarter of 2018, while Europe and Brazil expect a decline in production. Global yarn stocks decreased in all regions in first quarter of 2018 except in Brazil by 1.5pc. PHMA (North Zone) has elected Mr Adil Butt, Mr Sh Sarwat Kapoor and Mr Kashif Zia as unopposed Chairman, Vice Chairman and Senior Vice Chairman respectively for the year 2018-2019. For the post of Central Chairman Mr Javaid Bilwani was elected and the results have been approved. PRGMEA chief coordinator Mr Ijaz A Khokhar stressed that display houses ought to be established as they can facilitate domestic entrepreneurs to handily settle business deals at minimum travel costs. He further said that a large number of foreign businessmen were visiting Dubai because it had become major trade and business hub, therefore, display centers would enable the domestic entrepreneurs to settle their business deals more easily as well as help to reduce the additional burden of travel cost. October/November 2018
TEXNews
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Cover Story Cover Story – A. Monforts Textilmaschinen
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Corporate Highlights
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Reports Developments in Fibres
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Smart Textiles and Connectivity
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What’s New…
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TEX Events
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October/November 2018
2nd
International textile conference INSPIRING CHANGE
Inspiring Change, organized by TEXtalks is a series of conferences held to provide an enabling environment to the local textile industry. It brings together the industry stakeholders to identify, recognize and propose solutions to the problems faced and exploit the untapped potential of the local textile industry. The event is more than just an intellectual activity, it is a channel of information to decision makers and influencers for the formation of future policies and direction by means of presentations, panel discussions and interactive dialogue. The largest conference of its kind in Pakistan, the 2nd confrence of INSPIRING CHANGE will take place in the month of July, 2019 in Lahore.
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China to narrow down the trade gap by increased buying from Pakistan
News
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Advisor to the Prime Minister on Commerce, Textile, Industry and Investment, Mr Abdul Razaq Dawood said that PTI government has made the Chinese government realize that the trade gap between Pakistan and China needs to be narrowed down and a good trade balance needs to be established. Pakistan’s imports from China are presently at $15.38 billion and exports at $1.5bn only. Mr Abdul Razaq Dawood commented, “We have already discussed the issue of trade gap/ trade imbalance with the Chinese Foreign Minister during his recent visit to Islamabad and the Chinese Ambassador to Pakistan and we will seek concessional tariff on 330 items.” PM’s Advisor to the Prime Minister on Commerce assured the business community that he would not negotiate anything with China about trade and investment without maximum possible consultation with the business community of the country through their representative trade bodies. For this purpose, he would soon hold a detailed meeting with the representatives of value-added textile sector here to get their feedback / recommendation before his planned visit to China on November 4, 2018– leading an important Pakistan government team. Talking to textile industry leaders and exporters at PHMA House, the adviser said production cannot be increased without introducing new cotton seeds. Also, the ginning units require latest technology for contamination free cotton. Furthermore, the adviser also informed the textile leaders that the number of preferential tariff lines with China has now been increased from 57 to 313 and discussions were under way for revising the Free Trade Agreement (FTA) with China and
Pakistan is seeking concessions equal to Asian countries. He also informed that a large buying mission from China is arriving in October. The adviser assured that no negotiations will take place without consultation with trade and industry. Mr Razak said that a delegation headed by him will leave for China in November with the aim of luring Chinese investors. Mr Razak highlighted that Pakistan’s tariff policy needs to be rationalized and that the Chinese foreign minister has assured to provide special corridor and space to Pakistan in bilateral trade which in the past has not been fully explored. Declared by the representative of the federation, Mr Zhang Yang, at a news conference in Hyderabad Chamber of Commerce and Industry (HCCI) that Chinese industrialists from the Chongqing Federation of Industry and Commerce are going to invest $400 million in several industrial and trade projects in the Sindh. A memorandum of understanding has also been signed between the office bearers of the HCCI in China and the federation. According to Mr Zhang Yang the investment would be made in the form of steel, textile and clothing products, real estate, tourism, agriculture, education and training, municipal as well as solid waste disposal sectors. The Chinese official further added that the agreement is a part of CPEC, the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor. Earlier, the top officials and industrialists from Pakistan, China, Egypt and Europe gathered in Cairo to attend the CPEC and Belt and Road initiative summit. The Pakistani delegation is going to meet their counterparts to encourage trade relations between Pakistan and Egypt.
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Online visitor registration and ITMA 2019 app launched On-line visitor and participants registration for ITMA 2019, the world’s largest textile and garment producing and manufacturing technology showcase has commenced. Every four years, the exhibition is going to be staged at Fira Barcelona, Spain. Early bird visitors can enjoy lower rates till 15th of May 2019. Once they have bought the badges on-line at www.itma.com/reg. A one-day badge price is forty euros, and a seven-day badge is eighty euros. The first bird rates are up to fifty per cent below the onsite rates, per CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery manufacturers, that owns ITMA. Mr Fritz P. Mayer, president of CEMATEX, said: “ITMA 2019 exhibition space has been sold out since April, and many of our exhibitors will be using the platform to launch new machinery and innovative solutions. We expect interest from visitors to be very strong. Hence, visitors are advised to book their accommodation and buy their badge early.” Visitors shopping for their badge can even book seats at the conferences and forums that are going to take place throughout the show. To avoid onsite queues, once they purchase their badges they can have them printed before arriving at exhibition. Additionally, guests requiring a visa to enter Spain can request a call for participation invitation once ordering their badge. ITMA 2019 app Coinciding with the online registration is the launch of the official app for ITMA 2019. The app can be downloaded free of charge from the Apple App Store and Google Play.
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A modest increase in textile exports by 3.72pc in July-August 2018 In August 2018, the textile exports continuously inched up as value added product segments witnessed a moderate growth whereas, there was also an increase in exports of cotton yarn and cloth. As per the data released by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS), the textile exports hiked by 4pc in the second month of fiscal year 2019 on year to year basis. The figures were slightly higher for August 2018 that saw the overall textile exports grow by 7pc compared to August 2018. During the period under review, Knitwear recorded the highest growth by almost 30pc. Cotton cloth and ready-made garments saw a rise in volumes by 11 and 27pc respectively. Growth in textile exports are often primarily attributed to the rupee depreciation that has allowed exporters to gain additional orders in international markets. The incentives provided to the textile sector based on the PM incentive package has additionally provided a lift to the sector. Going forward, the sector is to gain from exemption once it involves increase in gas costs. Punjab based textile industry is getting 28 percent system gas and 72 percent RLNG at an exorbitant rate of almost Rs1500/MMBTU. The government has exempted zero-rated sectors which include textile, leather, sports and surgical products from the rise in gas costs to lower their value of production by giving a grant to the tune of Rs44 billion. During the first 2 months (July and August) of the current fiscal year, the textile exports of the country grew by 3.71 pc compared to the preceding year. The textile products valued at $2.280 bn were exported compared to exports of $2.179 bn last year
during the same time period. According to the month on month basis, Pakistan’s textile group exports saw a growth of 7.33pc in August 2018 compared against the same month last year. During the period under review country earned $ 1.258 billion by exporting the textile products as against the $ 1.172 billion of same month last year. During the first 2 months a positive growth was recorded which included cotton yarn by 6.52pc, yarn other than cotton by 2.84pc, bed wear by 2.72pc, knitwear by 11.29pc and towels by 7.02pc respectively. During the period under review, the textile products that recorded a negative growth include raw cotton by 62.14pc, cotton cloth by 0.69pc and other textile products by 13.13 pc respectively. From July-August, 2018 about 79,733 metric tons of cotton yarn valuing $224.145 million exported as against the exports of 81,064 metric tons worth $ 210.418 million of same period of last year. Meanwhile, 7,450 thousand dozens of readymade clothes valuing $435.425 million during the same period as compared the exports of 6,108 thousand dozens valued at $418 million at same time of last year. At the same time, exports of raw cotton decreased from $8.695 million in July-August, 2017 to $3.292 million in the same months of current financial year, recording decrease of 62.14 pc and the exports of cotton cloth stood at 345,229 thousand square meters worth $346.780 million, which were recorded at 328,741 thousand square meters valuing $349.197 million during the same period of last year. October/November 2018
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IGATEX PAKISTAN 2019 will be a game changer The 12th edition of International Garment, Textile Machinery Exhibition (IGATEX) organized by FAKT Exhibitions (Pvt) Ltd. will take from 26th – 28th February, 2019 at Karachi Expo Centre. Mr. Saleem Khan Tanoli, CEO of FAKT Exhibitions said, “As the total exports from the textile and clothing sector jumped 7.33% to $1.25 billion in August 2018 from $1.17bn in the same month last year I am confident that IGATEX Pakistan 2019 will provide a platform for all textile stakeholders, government regulators, associations and academia to enhance business networking and further improve our exports in the long run”. This time IGATEX will be much bigger than previous editions as it will be taking place in 6 Halls of Karachi Expo Centre including participation of
more than 500 Exhibitors from 32 countries. Participation coming from China, Italy, Germany, France, Japan, Russia, Switzerland, Turkey, UAE, USA, UK etc. There will be thousands of visitors expected to visit this mega event. IGATEX Pakistan 2019 will also have professional conference just like last edition in which key topics related to textile sector will be discussed to help in further improvement in this industry. The most important objective behind organizing this exhibition under one roof is to highlight and find new investment opportunities in Pakistan’s textile sector. This event would be an ideal venue to build and develop business relationships with key professionals so they may discuss the dynamics of development and growth of the industry.
EU probe mission to review GSP+ status by month end Mr Jean Francois Cautain, the EU Ambassador said, by the end of October an investigation mission team would visit Pakistan to examine the initiatives implementation to meet requirements of 27 conventions by Pakistan linked with the GSP Plus facility. The EU 2017 report says there has been positive developments in strengthening the human rights framework and legislative actions on the rights of women, children, minorities and labor rights, with legislation on, inter alia, torture, and juvenile justice and transgender rights in the pipeline.
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Chairman APTMA said that new government was keen to resolve viability and growth issues to overcome trade deficit. He added, the industry is considering new investment in technology up-gradation and value addition to generate exportable surplus and create jobs. The industry plans to increase exports $27bn with an investment of $7bn in next five years and 1.5 million jobs. APTMA has taken various sustainability initiatives and established Sustainability Production Centre (SPC) in association with GIZ, Ministry of Textile and five other textile associations.
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Kihak Sung elected as new ITMF President In September, 2018 during the Annual Conference 2018 of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) in Nairobi/Kenya, the Committee of Management of the Federation elected the members of the Board for the period 2018-2020. Mr Kihak Sung (Korea Rep.) was unanimously elected as the new President of the Federation, Mr Ruizhe Sun (China) and Mr. K.V. Srinivasan (India) were elected as Vice Presidents of the Federation, Mr Heinz Michel (Switzerland) was elected as the new Treasurer, Mr Loek de Vries (The Netherlands)
and Mr Rafael Cervone (Brazil) were re-elected as Board Members and the Committee of Management elected Mr Mohammad Kassem (Egypt), Mr Juan Parès (Spain) and Mrs Michelle Tjokrosaputro (Indonesia) as new Board Members. Mr Peter Gnägi (Switzerland), Mr Andrew Macdonald (Brazil) Mr. John Cheh (Hong -Kong, China) and Mr Muharrem Kayhan (Turkey) were coopted as Board Members. Mr Jaswinder Bedi (Kenya) was appointed Honorary Life Member of the Federation in recognition of his outstanding contribution to the Federation as Vice President (2012-2016) and ITMF President 2016-2018).
Government to set up Business Advisory Council Mr Asad Umar, Minister for Finance and Revenue said that the government is holding consultation for setting the business Advisory council to ascertain a liaison between the government and the business community in order to make Pakistan a business hub for investors. Speaking to a delegation of Overseas Investors Chamber of Commerce (OICCI) which was led by the President Mr Irfan Wahab Khan, Mr Asad Umar commented that in the tax system latest technology will be introduced to reduce hassle and also bring in more transparency to the system. He said that the Government is firm on its commitment to address the key structural issues of Pakistan’s economy. He
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said that the Government would soon introduce necessary changes in the Finance Act 2018 to make it more relevant to the current economic state of the country and reflective of the progressive vision of the new Government. The Minister said that the government wanted to address the issues of twin deficits on a long term basis and he believed that the key to the problem lies in promoting manufacturing industry and creating jobs for the youth of the country and this is the area where Overseas Chamber could assist and lead the way. He further assured the delegation of his all possible support in improving business environment in the country.
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Pakistan’s first LEED Gold Certified socks sustainable production facility Interloop Limited - Plant 4 The Plant 4, LEED Gold Certification is one of the many milestones achieved by Interloop Limited on the sustainability route. Driven by its Mission, Interloop Limited’s sustainability philosophy is to transform the way it operates business, from sourcing responsibly to reduce the carbon footprint, from supporting labor rights to taking care of its communities along with the continuous growth of business. Pursuing its commitment to environmental protection, Interloop took the required sustainable building development initiative in Pakistan in August 2018. Interloop’s new socks sustainable facility is established in Faisalabad – the Plant 4. The Plant 4 has become Pakistan’s and Regions first socks production facility to have achieved the LEED Gold Certification from US Green Building Council, under the Version 4 (V4) rating system. It is the latest and most rigorous LEED rating system until now. The Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, LEED, is the most widely used green building rating system in the world which provides a framework in order to create a healthy as well as highly efficient and cost saving green buildings. This LEED certification is globally recognized as a sustainability achievement. The new vertically integrated manufacturing facility, Interloop Plant 4, has been planned on LEAN based operational procedures and is also equipped with 736 state of the art knitting machines, e-Flow Washing Technology as well as the latest boarding machines. The newly built construction, Plant 4 was evaluated
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under the LEED V4 BD+C categories and scored 65 out of the attempted 74 points. The points scored includes integrative process location and transportation, sustainable sites water efficient energy and atmosphere materials, resource indoor environmental and quality innovation regional priority credits. The path that was followed by Interloop to achieve LEED Gold Certification includes improved erosion and sedimentation control to reduce negative impact son water and air quality during construction, metered and monitored energy, reduced water consumption with efficient water fixtures and metering of water at each consumption head, used environmentally friendly material including low VOC paint material and recycled material, installed efficient HVAC system having electric water cooled chillers, evaporative coolers, energy recovery ventilators and VRF system for office block, enhanced thermal comfort by using the double glazed glass and insertion of insulation boards at all outdoor windows, walls and ceiling respectively, construction of external roads with tuff paces replacing the bitumen carpeted road to reduce the heat island, a developed rainwater management plan to store water and reuse for horticulture, to harvest renewable energy and reduce grid electricity targeted to install the 260 KW solar system. Overall the sustainability results that have been achieved in the new construction, Plant 4 includes 26pc saving in energy consumption, 51pc reduction in portable water usage and 25pc enhanced fresh air intake to improve comfort.
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Cotton production estimated at 10.874 million bales in the current sowing season Cotton production throughout the current cotton crop season is probably going to remain 10.874 mn bales as against the set targets of 14.37 mn bales which shows a decrease of 22 pc. According to the Cotton Commissioner in the Ministry of National Food Security and Research, Dr Khalid Abdullah, the low output is attributed to the drastic climate changes, acute water shortage and the prolonging weather patterns throughout the crop sowing season in the province Sindh. He further added that the cotton crop within the Sindh region remained under the water stress due to below average rainfalls in the crop growing areas of the Sindh province which was going to supplement the overall output in the second and final estimation. In Punjab, the cotton crop production was expected to be 8.077 mn bales as compared to Sindh where
the crop production was expected to be 2.600 mn bales due to water stress which is a reduction of 5-20pc in the Sindh cotton production yield. The cotton production in Balochistan was estimated at 0.150 mn bales and Khyber Pakhtunkhwa was estimated to produce 0.020 mn bales. However, he said that it was an initial estimates and figures of output may improve in second and third estimation as the weather was dry and pest attack was not reported so far. The pest attack including cotton mealybugs, pink ball worm also reduced and it was reported at 23 percent as compared the 27 percent of same period of last year. Overall the cotton cultivated was more than 2.31 mn hectares in the Punjab province, registering 11pc growth and in Sindh it was reduced by 31pc.
Mr Khurram Mukhtar, the new PTEA Chairman demands a viable textile policy For the second time Mr Khurram Mukhtar has been elected unopposed as the chairman of Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA). Mr Rizwan Ehsan from Rizwan Enterprises has been elected unopposed as Senior Vice Chairman and Mr Muhammad Idrees of Afino Textile Mills (pvt) Ltd as the Vice Chairman for the two year term of 2018-19. Other officals have also been elected unopposed. New PTEA Chief Mr Khurram Mukhtar hails from a noted, distinguished and prosperous business family. He’s an active member of famous business network referred to as M/s Sadaqat Ltd. He is additionally serving as chairman of FESCO Board of directors, Director of Faisalabad Garment City Company (FGCC), member of core Committee of Young Entrepreneur Organization of Pakistan (YEOP) and member of International Textile October/November 2018
Manufacturers Federation in Switzerland. Additionally, he also has a glorious trade record of serving in social sector. Mr Khurram Mukhtar, the new PTEA Chief commented, “Presently the textile industry is facing many challenges in almost all segments particularly high utilities cost, trade deficit as well as additional levies and other impediments directly affecting the cost of doing business. It has hampered exports of the country. Textile sector will have to deliver to steer the country out of economic troubles. For this, we need the cooperation of not only the entire sector but also of value-added associations.” He appealed to the Govt. to draw a viable policy on textile as this sector has the potential to wipe out the whole trade deficit, provided that the factors impeding its growth are removed.
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Indonesian textile industry targets exports of $14 bn The Indonesian textile and apparel industry is hopeful of meeting an export target of $14 billion by the end of this year with an exports figure of $7.74 bn for January-July 2018. The completion of the Indonesia-Australia comprehensive economic cooperation agreement (IA-CEPA) can facilitate to boost exports. Interacting with representatives of a hundred medium as well as small textile industries at Bandung in West Java recently, Mr Hartarto mentioned the import duty tariff on Indonesian
textile and clothing merchandise to Australia would be abolished when a an agreement is signed later this year. Both sides proclaimed the substantive conclusion of negotiations on IA-CEPA on the 31st of August of the current year. Additionally, Indonesia is attempting to nail down a free trade agreement (FTA) with the European Union and also the United States. The export value of the country’s textile industry was $12.58 billion in 2017, up 6pc over the previous year.
Pakistan and India trade potential stands at $37bn: World Bank
According to the World Bank, the bilateral trade potential between India and Pakistan is $37 bn without any artificial barriers compared to the actual $2 bn. In the report “A Glass Half Full” by the World Bank, it was stated that continuous political tensions and lack of trade relations between the both the countries have hindered cooperation efforts in South Asia.
Highlighting the factors behind lack of trade, the report pointed out that Pakistan has a long list of 936 items (almost 17.9 pc of tariff lines) that applies to imports from all SAFTA (South Asian Free Trade Area) countries. Meanwhile, India contains a sensitive list of 25 items (0.5 pc of tariff lines, which are only goods such as alcohol, firearms, and so forth). However, it has a way longer list of 614 items (almost 11.7 pc of tariff lines) for Sri Lank and Pakistan but that only effectively is applicable only to Pakistan because a
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smaller sensitive list is applied to Sri Lanka by India. Items on the Indian sensitive list can be imported at most-favored-nation tariffs from any SAFTA country, including Pakistan, because India accorded Pakistan most-favored-nation status in 1996. In addition, the preferential access granted by Pakistan on 82.1 pc of tariff lines under SAFTA is partially blocked in the case of India because Pakistan maintains a negative list comprising 1,209 items that cannot be imported from India. In practice, many of these items are exported from India to Pakistan through third countries, usually the United Arab Emirates. The report also stated that the application of non-tariff measures (NTMs), that is, policy measures other than tariff has created another barrier to bilateral trade.
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PRGMEA urges Govt. to set up Pakistani trade houses abroad According to the PRGMEA chief coordinator Mr Ijaz A Khokhar, PRGMEA, The Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and Exporters Association has recently stressed the need to explore non-conventional international markets to promote and increase the textile exports. Pakistan display houses and exhibition centers ought to be established in Dubai and Rotterdam to aid the domestic exporters. Mr Ijaz A khokhar commented that these centers can facilitate domestic entrepreneurs to handily settle business deals at minimum travel costs. He further said that a large number of foreign businessmen were visiting Dubai because it had become major trade and business hub, therefore, display centers would enable the domestic entrepreneurs to settle their business deals more easily as well as help to reduce the additional burden of travel cost. Urging the govt. to separate the textile sector into 3 categories—raw material, home textile and apparel, he mentioned a garment export promotion council ought to be established comprising representatives from the public and private sectors to administer garment manufacturing activity and policymaking.
Sri Lanka reduces VAT on imported fabric to 5pc
Considering the requests that have been made by the fabric industry stakeholders, the Sri Lanka Govt. has decreased the VAT (Value Added Tax) to 5pc on the imported fabric. This step can assist the small scale industrialists under the Enterprise Sri Lanka scheme which provides raw material and other fabric at a lower cost. Earlier, at the time of imports the fabric was subject to Rs 100/kg CESS. 15pc VAT on goods has been proposed in the Budget 2018. Hence, the Value Added Tax Act No 14 of 2002 was accordingly amended and also the new VAT scheme came in to effect from the 16th of August, 2018. Sri Lanka’s ministry of finance and mass media commented, “As fabric was also subject to 15 per cent VAT, importers, traders and industrialists engaged in using fabric as raw material for making readymade garments had appealed to the minister of finance to provide them some relief as small-scale traders and industrialists who are not covered under VAT act have the adverse effect.”
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PHMA elects Mr Adil Butt as unopposed Chairman, Executive Body for 2018-19 PHMA (North Zone) has elected Mr Adil Butt, Mr Sh Sarwat Kapoor and Mr Kashif Zia as unopposed Chairman, Vice Chairman and Senior Vice Chairman respectively for the year 2018-2019. For the post of Central Chairman Mr Javaid Bilwani was elected and the results have been approved.
products with over $2.7 bn earning previous year.
Furthermore, other recently elected Executive Committee members include Mr Sajid Hussain Bhatti, Mr Qamar Aftab, Mr Afzal Awan, Mr Shaheen Tabssum, Mr Kashif Zia and Mr Muhammad Sarwat Kapoor.
A research to undertake thorough research and brief the SMEs on the emerging challenges should be done. He hopes that the government will help boost the textile exports and address the macro and micro issues of the trade and commerce. Mr Adil Butt said that growth of value-added textile industry was a must to steer the industry of worse situation and contribute to the exports of the country.
In a statement, the new Zonal Chairman, termed the knitwear industry as the best in ranking of export
He promised that the value added textile sector is ready to work closely with the new government with a prospect to increase the exports and revive the growth momentum.
US and Japan to negotiate a bilateral trade agreement Japan recently united to barter a trade written agreement with the US once Japanese Prime Minister Mr Shinzo Abe met United States of America President Mr Donald Trump on the sidelines of the annual UN General Assembly session. In a joint statement, each pledged to “refrain from taking measures against the spirit” of their understanding for as long as negotiations proceed. The statement said, “The United States and Japan will enter into negotiations, following the completion of necessary domestic procedures, for a United States–Japan Trade Agreement on goods, as well as on other key areas including services, that can produce early achievements.” Japan understands that the agreement implies the
United States will not take any action under Section 232, a US legal clause that allows the country to restrict imports due to concerns over national security. US Trade Representative Robert Lighthizer commented, “The president is not going to join the TPP (Trans-Pacific Partnership). But this is a very important step, in terms of expanding our relationship with Japan. However, the proposed trade deal will only focus on goods and will not be a full-fledged free trade agreement, a much more complex and time-consuming deal that also looks at the service sector.
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Lenzing temporarily suspends lyocell expansion project in Mobile, Alabama
The international company, Lenzing Group produces high quality fibers and filaments from the renewable raw material wood with environmentally friendly and innovative technologies. These fibers form the basis for a wide range of textile and nonwoven applications, and are also used in work and protective wear and in industrial applications. Lenzing’s quality and innovative strength set global standards for wood-based cellulose fibers. Lenzing Group is the only company in the world which produces significant volumes of all three wood-based cellulose fiber generations. Its products are marketed under the following brands: TENCEL™ for textile applications, VEOCEL™ for nonwoven and LENZING™ for special applications in other areas and other products. Innovations like REFIBRA™ technology, the identifiable LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded fibers and TENCEL™ Luxe branded lyocell filament yarn make Lenzing a global innovation leader. Lenzing’s Managing Board has concluded to temporarily stop using the lyocell expansion project in Mobile, Alabama but keep it in good condition so that it can readily be used again. The increased probability of rising trade tariffs, paired with the potential surge in construction costs due to the buoyant US labor market, has increased the risk profile of the lyocell project. Subsequently, Lenzing will place all its efforts to readjust the execution of its October/November 2018
growth plan to meet strong market demand of its lyocell fibers. The readjustment will include increased focus on the lyocell expansion project in Prachinburi, Thailand. Lenzing will reassess this decision on a regular basis but no substantial additional lyocell volumes, over and above the successful 25.000 tons expansion in Heiligenkreuz, Austria, will be added to the market in 2019 and 2020 by Lenzing. Lenzing continues to be completely committed to implement its sCore TEN strategy and remains on track for the specialty expansions such as TENCEL™ Luxe filaments and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose fibers, but this decision can weigh down the implementation of the lyocell specialty staple fiber growth. The Lenzing Group’s success is based on consistent customer orientation combined with innovation, technology and quality leadership. Lenzing is committed to the principles of sustainable management with very high environmental standards and can underscore this commitment with numerous international sustainability certifications for its business processes as the most sustainable company in the sector. In addition to fibers, which form the core business, the Lenzing Group is also active in the fields of engineering and plant construction – mostly for its own locations, but also for external customers.
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Innovation born of tradition Schoeller celebrates 150 years of performance textile history
A global textile solutions brand, Schoeller Textil, specializes in the development and production of innovative smart textile finishing technology and technical fabrics. It is celebrating its 150 years of tradition and futuristic opportunities. It began as a yarn spinning mill in 1868, Switzerland and achieved global recognition for its highly technical textiles as well as its dedication to sustainability. For its more than 500 brand partners in 50 countries, Schoeller produces an average of over six million meters of performance textiles per year in its mills in Sevelen, Switzerland and Balingen, Germany. When Rudolph Schoeller established what would be known as “Schoeller & Sohne” in Zurich in 1868, it absolutely was with. in age of ground-breaking accomplishment and progress inspired by the beginnings of Swiss Red Cross as well as the completion of the Gotthard Tunnel in Switzerland. Schoeller quickly expanded its business and in 1954 went on to buy a textile mill in Sevelen, set within the St. Gallen Rhine Valley that presently is the company’s headquarters. That mill would shortly launch the extremely elastic fabric for the ski industry – or the world’s extremely soft shell fabric – called “Skifans.” Sustainability Pioneer Mr Schoeller, CEO Siegfried Winkelbeiner said, “Being able to reflect upon 150 years of textile experience, customer relationships and progress is an incredibly proud moment for our entire Schoeller family. This milestone is one for which we would like to thank our consumers, customers and partners who have continually supported and inspired our advancements. Protecting and supporting millions of consumers in doing what they love most, and October/November 2018
keeping a close eye on the next level of innovation every day, drives us on and gives us tremendous fulfillment - just as I am sure it did for Rudolph Schoeller so many years ago.” To Schoeller sustainability has always been of significant importance. In 1994, it was the first activewear and leisurewear manufacturer to receive Oko-Tex Standard 100 certification. Schoeller also served as one of the founding developers of the bluesign® system, which has since become established worldwide. Schoeller then became the very first company to receive the bluesign® award in 2008. Bio-technologies and electronics in textiles Schoeller’s bio-technology and electronic innovations include its c_change membrane technology, the world’s first intelligent membrane, as well as the well-known NanoSphere®, coldblack® and corkshell® technologies. 3XDRY® Bio and ecorepel® Bio, the new PFC-free technologies based on renewable raw materials, were first introduced to customers in 2016. Most recently, Schoeller announced the availability of its heatable E-soft-shell, which won the DesignPrize Switzerland 2017/2018 for the textile category. In 2012, Schoeller joined forces with the Eschler Group, experts in tailored, knitted fabric solutions, to offer an extensive range of complementary textile options to its joint brand partners. Winkelbeiner commented, “Today, as ever, Schoeller strives to deliver what our brand partners’ end users need to differentiate themselves. We work to stay ahead of the curve on all fronts – providing our customers with what they need, sometimes even before they know they need it.”
VDMA Textile Machinery conjoint Walter Reiners Foundation awards five young engineers
Mr Peter D. Dornier, executive board member VDMA Textile machinery Federation and Walter Reiners Foundation Chairman for the Promotion of Young Engineers, honored five young talents. Several entrepreneurs and managers from the German textile machinery industry participated in the award ceremony at the Digital Capability Center (DCC) in Aachen, Germany. The dissertation category prizewinner, Dr. Ing. Benjamin Weise, is from the Institute of Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University (ITA). For the manufacturing of modified multifilament yarns, he dealt with complex production processes which now offers new prospects for the manufacture and development of textile charge carriers. Prizewinner of the master thesis Ms Susanne Fischer has comprehensively and systematically
resolved the difficult tasks of integration motion sensors into a fingers glove at Reutlingen University. Team Mr. Jan Merlin Abram and Mr Alon Tal from ITA Aachen as well as Mr Eric Otto from the Institute for Textile Machinery and High-Performance Textile Materials Technology (ITM) in Dresden are the winners of 2018 creativity award. Abram and Tal students for the hybrid morphing textiles design have developed a guideline. Additionally, to the classic functions in conventional and, in particular, composite applications, locally defined, functionally effective joint, torsion, expansion and compression mechanisms can be integrated into the textile. The prizewinner Otto is awarded for a concept study for the development of a circular knitting machine with a variable diameter needle cylinder, which can lead to further flexibility in the circular knitting process.
Yarn and fabric production decreased in first quarter of 2018 Global yarn production has decreased by 9pc between the fourth quarter of 2017 and first quarter of 2018. The Increase of 12pc in Brazil has been cancelled out by reductions in production in Africa, Asia and Europe by 13pc, 11pc and 1.5pc respectively. Most responding countries from Africa, Asia, and North America are optimistic about the evolution in second quarter of 2018, while Europe and Brazil expect a decline in production. Global yarn stocks decreased in all regions in first quarter of 2018 except in Brazil by 1.5pc. The strongest reduction has occurred in Asia by 6pc, followed by Europe by 3pc and Egypt by 1.5pc. Altogether, yarn stocks reach 89pc of their previous year level for the same quarter. Global yarn orders decreased in all countries by 5pc on average, except in Japan where it increased by 2pc. Global fabric production decreased from fourth quarter of 2017 to first quarter of 2018 by 10pc at
world level. It fell by 12pc in Asia, 5pc in Africa and 2pc in Europe. It increased by 1pc in Brazil. The world output level now reaches 96pc of its first quarter of 2017 level. South Africa, Pakistan, and Turkey expect a further increase in fabric production in second quarter of 2018. All other countries foresee stability or decrease. In first quarter of 2018, the global fabric stock level grew by 1pc. It was driven by Brazil’s stocks improvement of 5pc, which was sufficient to bring fabrics stocks 13pc over their first quarter of 2017 level. Fabric stocks remain stable in Asia, Europe, and the U.S.A. They continue to steadily drop in Egypt and South Africa and constantly increase in Brazil. The global fabric orders have reduced between fourth quarter of 2017 and first quarter of 2018 by 6pc. Europe’s small improvement 2pc was balanced out by reductions in Brazil and Africa by 10pc and 18pc, respectively, which brought the global index to 88pc of its previous year level. October/November 2018
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China clothes sharing start-up YCloset secures US$50m in new funds from E-Commerce giant Alibaba
Mr Liu Mengyuan, YCloset CEO says, “YCloset will continue to expand garment and accessory ranges and offer diversified services. In the future, our platform will become a one-stop shop.” YCloset is a leading Chinese garment sharing platform which has completed an undisclosed strategic fundraising round from the e-commerce giant Alibaba Group Holding Ltd, to provide better catering to female users fashion needs. Proceeds from the new funding are going to be used to tap furthermore into consumption scenarios, expand the algorithm system and also build its warehouse and cleaning operation centers nationwide. This move marks Alibaba’s latest attempt to promote the diversified development of its business. Mr Liu Mengyuan, YCloset CEO informed that the company will cooperate with Alibaba’s flea market platform Xiaoyu, e-commerce platform Taobao, Tmall, Alipay payments and other relevant platforms. Mr Liu Mengyuan, YCloset CEO said, “The market is huge. Clothes will always top the agenda of almost every woman. Compared with buying items in a store, clothes rental services will allow women to update their looks more frequently and wear more dresses that they could not afford to buy." Beijing based YCloset brand was founded in 2015. It charges subscription fee to its users and allows the users to rent clothes and accessories. The platforms target market are the female users, particularly those between the ages of twenty two and thirty, living in October/November 2018
first-and second-tier cities in China, including Beijing, Shanghai and Hangzhou, Zhejiang province, meeting demand for office, party, dating and travel clothing. According to the company it has more than 15 million registered users and it also provides a wide range of subscription plans making sure all needs are being catered to accordingly. For instance, it charges a monthly membership fee of 499 Yuan ($73; 62 euros; £55), and users are able to rent an unlimited number of items during that period. It does not charge additional fees for delivery and cleaning, and users also can purchase garments they like via the platform. Investors have shown enthusiasm for the newest addition to the sharing economy, pouring tens of millions of dollars into it. Last year, YCloset received $50 million in a series C fundraising round led by Alibaba Innovation Ventures, Softbank China and Sequoia China. Mr Li added, “However, there are also challenges ahead. Users will have concerns about hygiene. Other challenges include costs and how to keep sufficient inventory to offer better user experiences." YCloset updates its inventory as per the season and current trends. It has 4 storage and cleanup centers, in Beijing; Nantong, Jiangsu province; Chengdu, Sichuan province; and Guangzhou, Guangdong province. Beijing-based Fornet, a leading domestic cleaning company, and Guangdong-based Tiantian Inc are its technical strategic partners.
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Ahead of progress with Monforts at ITMA Asia + CITME The potential of Industry 4.0, in combination with the drive to reduce waste and minimise raw materials usage, has led to some significant new developments by Monforts. “We are already embracing many Industry 4.0 principles in our approach to new machine concepts and the Qualitex 800 has all the intuitive features operators will be familiar with from touchscreen devices. It is making navigation extremely easy for operators, cutting down the time required for becoming familiar with a new system and allowing complete control of all machine parameters. Whatever your company’s specialism, we have the technologies and the process knowledge to help you take your business to the next level. We look forward to meeting customers old and new in Shanghai.” Klaus Heinrichs Vice-President of Sales and Marketing A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG
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The new Monforts Qualitex Web-UI
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Denim finishing range at customer BERTO in Italy
At this year’s ITMA Asia + CITME, in Hall 6 at booth H6/D05, visitors can learn about the company’s latest Qualitex 800 control system, which along with the Web-UI app, allows the remote visualisation of Monforts technologies via smart phones and tablet devices. Resource efficiency is being addressed via the latest technologies such as the company’s Eco Line for denim, based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator for minimum application of the selected finishing chemicals and the ThermoStretch. As an alternative to conventional padding, especially for wet-in-wet solutions, the Monforts Eco Applicator can significantly reduce the amount of finishing chemicals required prior to the stretching and skewing of the denim fabric. In many textile mills globally, the cost of energy for running integrated manufacturing lines – especially those for fabric finishing that can involve numerous sequences of heating and subsequent drying – is now eclipsing the cost of paying people to operate them. The ability of the Eco Applicator to significantly reduce energy costs has seen it rapidly accepted on the market. The Monforts ThermoStretch unit meanwhile carries October/November 2018
Advanced technical textile web finished on the Monforts TT-Range
out the skewing (weft straightening), stretching and drying in a continuous process. “The Eco Line system reduces energy requirements and losses, increases thermal transfer and keeps the drying energy on the textile material longer,” says Monforts Area Sales Director and Head of Product Management for Denim Hans Wroblowski. “As a result energy savings of up to 50% are being achieved.” Monforts is also the only manufacturer which is able to offer completely integrated coating lines from a single source and at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018, the company’s specialists will be on hand to explain how its latest coating heads are being tailored to drying technology for maximum benefits. For an unprecedented range of options, Monforts now offers multi-functional coating heads for both its industrial texCoat and Allround coating units. Module options include those for screen printing, magnetic coating and knife coating, either integrated into new lines or retrofitted into existing installations. “Our system has the shortest fabric path from the coating unit into the stenter and all of these options are available in wider widths,” says the company’s Head of Technical Textiles, Jürgen Hanel.
Continuous developments for denim
As the number one supplier of finishing ranges to the denim industry globally, the benefits of the latest Monfort Eco Line are already being enjoyed by several of the sector’s leading manufacturers in both Asia and South America. Denim manufacturing consumes huge amounts of energy and resources at virtually all stages of production, but especially during shrink finishing, and on conventional ranges, large volumes of water, steam, chemicals and thermal energy are required.
A significant portion of these resources, however, can be wasted without precise feeding, monitoring and control. This is an issue that Monforts engineers have successfully addressed with the Eco Line for denim, based on two key technology advances – the Eco Applicator for minimum application of the selected moist finishing chemicals and the ThermoStretch. As an alternative to conventional padding, especially for wet-in-wet solutions, the Monforts Eco Applicator October/November 2018
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ThermoStretch which carefully measures and controls the fabric width & skewing.
can significantly reduce the amount of applied humidity required prior to the stretching and skewing of the denim fabric. It also allows mills to apply finishes to just one side of the fabric, or both, and even to apply separate finishes to each side, or to specific areas of a fabric, for endless denim differentiation possibilities. The Monforts ThermoStretch unit carries out the skewing (weft straightening), stretching and drying in a continuous process. A modified hotflue with reinforced and adjustable rolls for determining the longitudinal tension within the fabric, the ThermoStretch benefits from a structure detector with Pleva SD 1 camera technology employing transmission and reflection lighting for the highest detection capability, in order to carefully measure and control the fabric width and the skewing. Due to its large number of guide rolls, it is possible to stretch damp fabric in a heated chamber at a longitudinal tension of between 200-300 N with the ThermoStretch, compared to the high forces of up to
4,000 N that have previously been required to finish a typical denim fabric with a starting width of 157cm and a finished width of 151cm. “Due to these innovations, the Eco Line system reduces energy requirements and losses, increases thermal transfer and keeps the drying energy on the
Thermo Stretch to measures and controls the fabric width & skewing
textile material longer,” says Monforts Vice President Sales and Marketing Klaus A. Heinrichs. “As a result energy savings of up to 50% are being achieved. We will be introducing a number of new innovations for denim in the near future, including a solution for the introduction of two-way super stretch into denim in a single processing step.”
The Monforts ThermoStretch.
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ThermoStretch, carefully measures and controls fabric width & skewing.
Corporate Highlights
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exhibits latest products in Shanghai In the world of Trützschler it's all about the core expertise of "getting fibers into shape". Trützschler is committed to achieving the optimum quality level for natural and man-made fibers to create the basis for first-class final products. In Shanghai, all Trützschler divisions will exhibit current and new products on a 600 m² area. Highlights of the products on the display are
T-Data allow a real-time quality monitoring. TC 15 Benchmark in productivity
TD 10 The new Trützschler autoleveller draw frame
TC 15 Card
TD 10 draw frame
ITMA ASIA marks the launch of the new Draw Frame TD 10. It features increased compactness and has a highly modern regulating system. This results in a significant increase in control dynamics and an improvement in sliver quality. Despite 20% less space requirement, it was possible to increase the filter once more. The intelligent SMART CREEL in combination with T-LED offers an unprecedented level of functional reliability and more comfort for the operator and mill manager. Digitalization and connectivity are not only catchwords at Trützschler: Machines connected to
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A whole range of individual measures ensure performance increases compared to the predecessor machine. In addition to high productivity, the 1.28 m wide Card TC 15 stands for increased sliver evenness and improved running behaviour. Trützschler will demonstrate the high flexibility with five different sliver coiling systems on the stand. TC 10 The most successful card in China Made in China – for China. The Card TC 10 is the card for the Chinese market. This Trützschler card in the traditional working width of one metre has been specifically designed for the Chinese market. T-MOVE Space saving and increased efficiency The can filling station does more than just save space. The new moving head allows a can change at high delivery speeds. This improves card efficiency. T-MOVE is also designed for JUMBO CANS with 1,200 mm diameter.
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With the aim to get the best out of every single fibre
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T-SCAN Five technologies work hand in hand for highest separation rates In the Foreign Part Separator T-SCAN TS-T5, five detection technologies ensure an all-time high separation efficiency: F-module Detection of coloured parts G-module Detection of shiny parts P-module Detection of transparent and semi-transparent parts UV-module Detection of fluorescent parts LED-module Detection of smallest thread-shaped parts
configuration with downstream unwinding, slitting and winding increases process stability. The Surface Winder TWW-SD provides an appropriate solution for spunlace systems, for a variety of thermal bonding processes as well as for technical nonwovens. Winding of master rolls up to 1,800 mm diameter and system speeds up to 300 m/min can be realised. GX1 The cylinder clothing that no longer requires grinding The new GX1 clothing has been specifically developed for all spinning processes in the area of
IDF Vortex Shortened preparation system for air-jet yarns In cooperation with the Japanese company Murata, the leading manufacturer of air-jet spinning machines, TrĂźtzschler has developed a new sliver preparation technology. When processing viscose, two of three draw frame passages can be eliminated. This represents an enormous economic advantage. T-WIND Semi-automatic Surface Winder TWW-SD Robust master roll winders are used when the production of ready-for-sale rolls is decoupled from the nonwovens production. The two-stage
GX1 clothing
cotton. Improved fibre guidance results in less short fibre content and significantly better nep separation. The clothing is basically maintenance-free, but can also be ground when required. NOVOTOP 30 The very special flat clothing Picture-5 The flat clothing NOVOTOP 30 has been newly developed for the processing of coarse and/or dyed fibers and reclaimed fibers for rotor spinning.
TWW-SD
NOVOTOP 30
TWW-SD
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It is ideally suited for use with yarn counts below Ne 10 and realises high production speeds. The flat type NT 30 is available as MAGNOTOP and CLASSICTOP.
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new rapier weaving machine GTMax-i 3.0 at ITMA Asia A world premiere: the new rapier GTMax-i 3.0 Picanol’s newest rapier, the GTMax-i 3.0, will be shown for the first time to the textile world. The GTMax-i 3.0 is building further on the success of GT-Max and GTMax-i. The combination of a redesigned gripper drive and extra reinforced sley drive as well as the integration of the future-oriented BlueBox electronic platform allow for even higher production speeds. Moreover, the look of the machine has been reworked completely, with a special focus on ergonomy and user friendliness.
quality terry fabric.
In total 4 machines of this type will be on display at the show. On the Picanol booth, a GTMax-i 3.0 will be weaving a denim fabric, another one will be weaving a zebra style curtain fabric. On the Bonas booth a decoration fabric is running on a GTMax-i 3.0 with jacquard, whereas on the Tongxiang booth a GTMax-i 3.0 will be weaving label.
1. OMNIplus Summum 4-P 190 weaving a bottomweight fabric
Product portfolio at ITMA-CITME Next to the all new GTMax-i 3.0, four more machines will be present, completing the Picanol weaving machine range on display. On the Picanol booth two OptiMax-i 190 cm weaving para-aramide and shirting are being presented. As for the airjet machines, two OMNIplus Summum will be shown, one weaving a bottomweight fabric and the other weaving sheeting. On the Stäubli booth a TERRYplus Summum with jacquard is weaving a high
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So in total 9 Picanol machines will be on display, of which six on its own booth (Hall H3, booth F01). One Picanol TERRYplus Summum with jacquard will be on display at the Stäubli booth and one GTMax-i 3.0 on the Bonas booth. On the booth of Tongxiang a GTMax-i 3.0 will be weaving label. Picanol weaving machines on display at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018
This airjet combines performance, flexibility and energy effectiveness. Waste control and style changes are simplified thanks to the Blue22 EasySet prewinders. Warp Yarn count: Ne 10/1
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Material: Polyester/Cotton Density:23.7 ends/cm
Material: Cotton Density: 47 ends/cm
Weft Yarn count: Ne 16.1/1 Material: Polyester/Cotton Density: 25 picks/cm
Weft Yarn count: Ne 120/2 Material: Cotton Density: 35 picks/cm
Drawing-in width: 167 cm
Drawing in width: 178 cm
2. OMNIplus Summum 4-P 280 weaving a sheeting fabric
4. OptiMax-i 2-R 190 weaving para-aramide
This machine brings the answer to the increasing demand to weave sheeting fabrics on a type 280 at the highest speeds thanks to the air tucking version for continuous reeds. Warp Yarn count: Ne 60/1 Material: Cotton Density: 72 ends/cm Weft Yarn count: Ne 40/1 Material: Cotton Density: 45 picks/cm (double pick) Drawing-in width: 274 cm
The OptiMax-i, also perfect solution for a range of technical fabrics, such as Para-Aramide fabric. Warp and weft provided by Teijin Aramid. Warp Yarn count: dtex1,680f1000 Material: Aramide Density: 6.7 ends/cm Weft Yarn count: dtex1,680f1000 Material: Aramide Density: 6.7 picks/cm Drawing in width: 163 cm 5. GTMax-i 3.0 8-R 340 weaving a zebra fabric
3. OptiMax-i 8-R 190 weaving a fancy shirting
Machine specified to show the top performance achievable with the new OptiMax-i.
The new generation of GTMax-i 3.0 in wider width execution. Weaving a high versatility article.
Warp Yarn count: Ne 100/2
Warp Yarn count: dtex 78 October/November 2018
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Material: Polyester Density: 24 ends/cm Weft Yarn Count: 5,5Nm / 10/2Nm / 2,5Nm Material: Various filling material Density: 18 picks/cm
Yarn count Pile: Ne 30/2 Material: Cotton Density: 26 ends/cm Weft Yarn count: Ne 14/1, Ne 58/2 Material: Cotton Density: 22-80 picks/cm
Drawing in width: 327 cm Drawing in width: 256 cm 6. GTMax-i 3.0 6-R 220 weaving a denim
Thanks to the technological evolutions this machine continuous to set the standard for denim as well as shirting fabrics. Warp Yarn count: Ne 16 Material: Cotton Density: 35 ends/cm Weft Yarn count: 15den + 30den /200den + 40den Material: Lycra Density: 30 picks/cm Drawing in width: 214 cm Stäubli booth: 7. TERRYplus Summum 6-J 260 weaving a Terry fabric
Bonas booth: 8. GTMax-i 3.0 8-J 340 weaving a decoration fabric
Warp Yarn count: 30den Material: PA monofil Density: 64 ends/cm Weft Yarn count: 300d / 120d Material: PES FDY (7 colours) / Lurex Density: 72picks /cm Drawing in width: 310 cm Shanghai Tongxiang Booth 9. GTMax-i 3.0 weaving labels Warp Yarn count: 50den Material: Polyester FDY Density: 43,4 ends/cm Weft Yarn count: 50den Material: Polyester DTY Density: 31,4 picks/cm Drawing in width: 170 cm
Warp Yarn count Ground: Ne 30/2 October/November 2018
Teaming up with Picanol is the best guarantee for weavers of being competitive and profitable – now and in the long term. So come and see Picanol at booth F01 in Hall H3.
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Live JAVELIN demonstrations Witness the high-quality output of digital textile printing at first hand
SPGPrints JAVELIN
SPGPrints is a leading global company in the textile, label and industrial printing markets. It provides total system solutions, with a portfolio including screens, lacquers, inks, digital engravers, and a broad range of rotary screen and digital printing systems. The company has applied its electroforming expertise to developing highly reliable rotary screen technology.
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At ITMA Asia 2018, SPGPrints will give visitors a chance to see with their own eyes how digital textile printing can improve quality, increase design flexibility and accelerate your speed to market. These live demonstrations at the SPGPrints stand (H5, D05) will give you a real-time experience of the JAVELINs high-quality output and rapid production speed.
Besides live demonstrations, highlights of the SPGPrints booth include our full NEBULA ink portfolio with a particular focus on the newly developed ultra HD inks, plus the presentation of SPGPrints conventional printing methods. Live demonstrations
substrate – assures fine line details, blotches, and tonal curves thanks to its high resolution, large drop-size and high jetting frequencies. With only six colors, the JAVELIN offers a color gamut that exceeds the HD-gamut of today’s digital textile printing solutions. Digital inks optimized for all major industrial print heads Textile printers are always looking for ways to
SPGPrints JAVELIN SPGPrints NEBULA digital ink
improve the quality of their designs and fabrics. An essential element of design quality is the type of ink that is used for printing. At ITMA Asia 2018, SPGPrints will showcase its full NEBULA digital ink portfolio optimized for all major industrial print heads, including the Kyocera print heads.
JAVELIN Archerbar
The JAVELIN scanning digital textile printer will be in full production during the live demonstrations at various time slots at the SPGprints stand. The JAVELIN printer offers unsurpassed quality and value to textile printers who are taking the first step into digital production and are looking for ease, reliability, and productivity. Experience yourself how the JAVELIN can help you make short-run, fast-turnaround jobs affordable for customers, since it eliminates screen preparation time and frees up time for printing full production runs. With an annual output up to 2 million meters, the JAVELIN is the perfect solution for companies ready to supplement their existing capabilities. See, touch and inspect the high-quality fabric coming out of the JAVELIN and evaluate the output of the scanning digital textile printer yourself. The innovative Archer technology featured in the JAVELIN – with nozzles positioned 4mm from the
When you demand nothing less than outstanding results, the ink you use should meet your high standards. The NEBULA inks from SPGPrints are specially formulated to deliver optimum performance and unattended printing for Kyocera print head users. Since all SPGPrints inks are developed and produced in-house, SPGPrints can offer unrivaled quality and runnability at competitive prices. SPGPrints specialists at the stand will be more than happy to discuss the possibilities of the digital inks with you and help you optimize the quality of your designs. SPGPrints: your reliable partner with more than 70 years of experience in the textile industry Since the foundation in 1947, the primary focus of SPGPrints has been the textile printing market. That has led to ground-breaking, technical innovations and SPGPrints being the first to be able to offer high-speed printing of popular designs to the customers. The primary goal has always been to provide the customers with faster, more reliable and more versatile printing solutions. Visit SPGPrints in Shanghai: Hall: H5, Stand: D05 October/November 2018
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Energy Saving and Industry 4.0 Winding solutions
Savio Eco PulsarS winding machine
Since 1911, the Italian manufacturer Savio is specialized in the yarn-finishing segment, being the leading supplier of winding, twisting and rotor spinning machines, with manufacturing plants spanning over Italy, China, India and Czech Republic. Savio will exhibit in Shanghai energy saving and Industry 4.0 solutions in the winding segment: Polar Evolution and Eco PulsarS winding machines, plus an Industry 4.0 corner with smart solutions for mill monitoring. Polar Evolution winding machine: a high performance, energy saving and less labor-intensive product for the Chinese customers. Polar winding machines have been recently developed to the Evolution series, gathering all the innovative solutions in terms of technology, efficiency, quality output and maintenance. A further step for Polar family to catch the world of I.T. connectivity and the new fibers applications. The machine on display will be a round magazine feeding one, provided with an efficient and fast automatic doffer. Eco PulsarS: with its innovative platform can save up to 30% power bill thanks to “Suction on Demand” system Eco PulsarS winding machine, with its sustainable eco-green advantage, replies to the market demand of energy saving, including room air conditioning, October/November 2018
together with improved production performances, high quality packages and utmost automated solutions. Energy is a major cost component in the textile industry. The rising energy prices, affecting fuel and electricity, have caused soaring costs in the process, thus reduced the competiveness of textile products in some domestic markets, where imported products may be cheaper. Suction represents 75% of the total energy of a winding machine. EcoPulsarS’s solution of the “individual and independent suction unit per spindle” represents a real break-through versus the conventional system. Each unit operates at optimum suction values without influencing the rest of the spindles. This means no more compromises in balancing the suction as in conventional centralized systems, in which the fan is permanently in operation. Since suction is generated only when needed, customer can save up to 30% power bill costs, while a better efficiency, a smoother winding process and overall superior package and yarn quality are achieved too. Reduction of noise is another key aspect. EcoPulsarS combining all new features and design has created an environment in which each part of the machine can operate at its optimum level. Spindles and
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bobbins feeding systems set independently the level of suction required. Suction is generated as needed and used without losses. The new Controlled Cut System, Yarn Tension Control System, Waste Collection System and Upgraded Splicing Solutions, each contribute to the overall reduction of noise and process downtimes. Automation - Link system The Savio Direct Link System (I/DLS) solution, for linking the ring spinning frames (RSF) to the winders, enables a fast and efficient direct feeding of bobbins, along with the full interfacing flexibility with all kind of RSF. From RSF bobbin to the final package, the yarn is processed untouched and with zero transit time, ensuring maximum quality, less material handling and no chances of contamination. Many important markets are investing on this kind of high-automatic systems for the production advantages that such solution offers, but also for guaranteeing the end-product quality. In order to satisfy each new developments on ring frame design, Savio Direct Link System has been designed in a “modular type� granting the possibility of reaching the highest number of winding heads, to match the trend of the spinning frame manufacturers with longer and longer machines up to 2.000 spindles. Savio Winder 4.0 – Smart Industry Solutions for Textile Mills Once composed solely by mechanical and electrical parts, now winding machines have become complex systems that combine hardware, sensors, data storage, microprocessors, software and connectivity. These smart machineries can increase the efficiency of the spinning mill and perform predictive maintenance avoiding breakdowns and downtimes. Savio winding machines can be equipped upon request of Smart Industry Solutions for connectivity, data management, remote machine set up and operator real-time interactivity. Savio Winder 4.0 represents an important step towards a wide digitalization process, being a solution for intelligent networking of machines in the spinning/winding room. This data management system is a very modern and important management tool, relieving mill management staff of time-consuming routine work. The mill manager can have the winding room live monitoring directly from his/her desk. Thanks to data analytics, a wealth of data are available, allowing to manage the different production phases in the best possible way and to monitor all significant parameters anytime and anywhere, making use of mobile devices. All these features enable Savio customers to control overall equipment effectiveness, increase workforce efficiency, and maximize quality and working time. Savio Winder 4.0
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En route to the digital yarn factory “We want to become the textile machine construction trendsetter for technologies of this kind and to show that the ‘digital factory’ is becoming a reality in conjunction with our machine exhibits and that we are in a good position to further optimize the efficiency of our equipment and quality of their end products – with digital solutions” Georg
Stausberg, CEO- Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment
“From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens – Bring it to Life” – is the motto under which the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment will transform itself into a digital machinery and plant manufacturing company showcasing its power as one of the innovation leaders for the production of chemical fibers. ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018, taking place in Shanghai from October 15th to 19th, is the world’s biggest textile machinery exhibition this year and with over 750 square meter exhibition space will be a virtual show for trendsetting digital products and services “From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens”. En route to the digital yarn factory, technologies such as artificial intelligence, machine learning or innovative HMI (Human Machine Interface) solutions promise the bridging between material and data flow – for customer value. These topics are also the central point of the “Oerlikon Innovation Forum” at which presentations in English and Chinese will be held several times a day for visitors of the exhibition booth.
interfaces between all systems involved and the collation, channeling and evaluation of tremendous volumes of data in real time.
The scenario of the future: textile production – from the supply chain through to dispatch – is autonomously controlled in the fully-networked Factory 4.0. The product being created controls and monitors the processes itself using embedded sensors. The manufacturing or order status is known at all times, raw materials are automatically reordered, wear and maintenance are planned as integral parts of the production process and error processes are identified, alleviated or displayed. This should cut costs, convert production lines more flexibly and help reduce downtimes and waste. For this, the machine construction sector has to provide correspondingly intelligent and Web-enabled production systems. No easy feat, as this requires
AIM4DTY: Automated detection of error cause At ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 the company gives an insight to this as well as an outlook for new developments for the digitization of the process chain “From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwoven”. The digital future solution AIM4DTY provides help with the identification of possible error causes in texturing machines to help reduce quality risks. Here, machine learning is being used: The system recognizes and is being “trained” using trend charts and their respective errors. An example: In the texturing machine, the UNITENS monitoring sensor continually measures the yarn tension at all positions. An error is generated if a measurement value does not lie within the prescribed tolerances. In a lot of cases, the form
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Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment wants to face those technical development challenges and has high standards. “We want to become the textile machine construction trendsetter for technologies of this kind,” says CEO Georg Stausberg. The first steps on this journey have already been taken. The Plant Operation Center (POC) for process monitoring enables the collation of existing production data in a central location and to make these data available. HMI based services such as process monitoring via a service online app on smart phones and tablets were introduced as well as an assistance system based on mixed-reality glasses (Microsoft HoloLens). The system supports predictive maintenance concepts and enables virtual 360-degree tours through spinning systems.
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From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens – Bring it to Life
of the graphs can provide information on the error causes and ultimately provide targeted and efficient response to these. A manual analysis and optimization is nearly impossible with more than 125,000 graphs per day. With the automated solution AIM4DTY the information is instantly available to customers, therefore allowing them to immediately optimize the quality during running production. It also ensures that predictive maintenance is now a reality. Here, data security, data minimization and transparency are extremely important. This means that the data are utilized at the customer site as far as possible and only transferred to the Oerlikon central customer data center if required – and only following customer
approval. “We process all data in accordance with the new European General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), taking all further international data protection standards into account. Our customers always know which data we use and why”, explains Mario Arcidiacono, Business Intelligence & Data Warehouse specialist for the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment. Wiping robot with intelligent control system The crucial advantage of the wiping robot used for the cleaning of the spinnerets is automation: intelligent control system which connects machines and processes. The information relating to all wiping positions, cycles and times can be saved in the October/November 2018
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management system. The robot accesses the saved wiping intervals in an automated and safety-relevant manner. To this end, the robot can cope with up to 48 positions, corresponding to one entire production line. However, more decisive here is the impact of the intelligent control system, with whose help the spinning pump can be moved up and down in an automated and ‘in-time’ manner. To this end, pump stops can be kept to the absolute minimum using a robot, considerably reducing the impact of the wiping on both the polycondensation system process stability and on the yarn data of the spun yarn. The advantages over the manual process are for example extended cleaning cycles, less silicon use, more production time, less operating costs as well as advantages for human resources and health management. The wiping robot has been operating at two major yarn manufacturers in China now. World premiere: Staple FORCE S1100 There are even more news regarding the exhibition to come: The Staple FORCE S1100 is a one-step plant, which spins, draws, crimps, cuts and bales in a single process step, produces small batches (up to 15 tons per day) and can be swiftly reconfigured for various requirements, including polymer, dye and titer changes. Its process control system for easy operation is absolutely unique. The service for repair-coating from Oerlikon Barmag for thread-handling parts such as godet jackets also includes the expert’s know-how to identify and review abrasion in order to recreate the correct surface structure at the location. This way they can provide all important requirements to creating optimal plant and yarn quality. News from the PA6/66 sector With the acquisition of the PE Polymer Engineering October/November 2018
Plant Construction GmbH, based in Thuringia, Germany, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment expanded its now completed polyamide process chain for fibers and filaments. The now available and tested technologies in the melt preparation process include the entire polyamide 6 polycondensation systems division and its PA6/66 co-polymer and the patented dimer-hydrolysis procedures for feeding recycled-lactam with the very highest end-product quality. En route to digitization with a new mindset To show its direction towards digitization, the company wants to offer its visitors at the exhibition booth in hall 2, B24 alongside machine exhibits mostly virtual experiences. They will be deploying playful solutions to present the topic of artificial intelligence as well as a virtual showroom to allow visitors to experience complex systems live in 3D. “We want to show that the ‘digital factory’ is already in part becoming a reality in conjunction with our machine exhibits and that we are in a good position to further optimize the efficiency of our equipment and quality of their end products – with digital solutions” affirms Georg Stausberg. According the CEO the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Segment already started establishing new ideas and mindsets a few years ago, are working between disciplines, departments, areas and companies. An important step was the acquisition of the newly integrated partner AC-Automation who has substantiated know-how in large-scale automation, transport, packaging and warehouse logistics and end product automated quality control. “Together with our process competencies and digital data handling we not only want but will offer further innovative Industrie 4.0 solutions for our customers – all the way to the digitization of the complete process chain”, promises Georg Stausberg.
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Comprehensive control and economic benefits USTER® ring spinning optimization system now offers much more than end-break detection unmatched detection of end-breaks provides the basic platform, which is extended to total control of end-breaks when combined with USTER® ROVING STOP. The instant stop of roving feed at an end-break will reduce waste significantly and make raw material usage more cost-effective. Calculations show that 70% less pneumafil waste equates to a saving of nearly 1% in raw material, based on current spinning conditions. This obviously makes for a shorter investment payback. Designed for top productivity
USTER® SENTINEL
USTER® SENTINEL is much more than an end-break detection system. It is a comprehensive solution for ring spinning optimization, with benefits in quality, productivity and efficiency. Data can now be integrated with the Total Testing Center through USTER® TESTER 6, giving spinners an overview of quality through all process steps in the mill, for focused control of production management. Adding USTER® ROVING STOP enhances the economic advantages still further, reducing waste by stopping the roving feed immediately an end-break is detected. USTER® SENTINEL’s bobbin build-up report is the key to optimized yarn production. The system’s
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USTER® ROVING STOP – complete control over end-breaks
Using USTER® SENTINEL with USTER® ROVING STOP improves productivity and cuts down the risk of quality problems in ring spinning. Potential quality claims are avoided, since waste material and uncontrolled fiber – which could affect neighboring spindles and the entire machine – are greatly
reduced by the USTER® ROVING STOP. Overload on rollers is also prevented, ensuring higher productivity through reduced lapping. These benefits together can be expected to extend the service life of spinning components such as aprons, cots and cylinders by around 20%. The design of USTER® ROVING STOP is striking. Its streamlined and uncluttered profile is geared to optimum machine performance. The unique compact shape leaves operators clear access, saving time and speeding up responses. And its smart design enables the USTER® ROVING STOP to implement a rapid and complete separation of the process, to avoid raw material waste. Higher yield and fewer quality claims The advantages of USTER® SENTINEL go far beyond end-break detection: it brings a completely new approach to quality, productivity and efficiency in ring spinning. Bobbin build-up information and end-break detection are the basic functions, but total optimization is the result. The intuitive reports on bobbin build-up include every parameter influencing end-breaks. Clear visuals point to exact reasons for breaks, making optimization easy. Mills benefit from improvements in ambient conditions, service life of mechanical components – and machine speed. Machine performance is displayed in real-time, giving a fast overview of the most relevant production and laboratory data – as well as the machine’s energy
consumption. The well-established expert system supports mills with clear guidance to profitable optimization. Higher yield and fewer quality issues also result from reduced repair times. Badly-performing spindles are reliably identified and the USTER® SENTINEL guides machine operators quickly to spindle breaks, through clear and simple indications. Other issues which often impair the spinning process – such as idle, rogue and off-quality spindles, as well as spindle slip – are all monitored for fast response. Profitability: the ultimate goal USTER’s ring spinning optimization system maximizes profitability where it matters most. USTER® SENTINEL measures and controls the most expensive process in yarn manufacturing. It monitors the productivity of all spindles, as well as providing the required links and information to help the spinning mill optimize both machine performance and the entire process. Connecting USTER® SENTINEL to the Total Testing Center of the USTER® TESTER 6 opens the way to extended analysis, based on centralized quality data from all spinning processes. This is the route to management of a spinning mill with quality in mind. Adding USTER® SENTINEL data to this creates the ultimate quality optimization package. This is a significant further development milestone, supporting spinners to achieve the ultimate goal of excellence in quality and profitability.
“New Generation Drafting” ® (NGD) Rotorcraft AG of Switzerland to introduce New Generation Drafting at ITMA Asia NGD consists of RT3 ® top arm and the mechanical compacting system Green Compact ® RoCoS. The top arm RT3 ® solves a problem prevalent in every mill: conventional top arms use setting screws for changing the distance between rollers. Manually adjusting the settings of the top arm in this way invariably leads to different distances along each ring frame. This in turn leads to uneven yarn quality. By contrast, the RT3 ® eliminates set screws, and therefore human error. The distance between rollers is changed by easily interchangeable, differently colored roller holders instead of set screws. In this concept, each differently colored roller holder
represents a different distance. This not only solves the problem of wrong manual distances, but also makes it easy to check the setting of each top arm by checking on the colors. The mechanical compacting system Green Compact ® RoCoS combines superior yarn quality with remarkable power savings (as compared to first generation, pneumatic systems). It is easy to install and simple to operate. Much as RT3 ®, Green Comact ® RoCoS follows Rotorcraft’s design imperative: make life easier for the mill! Combined into New Generation Drafting ® (NGD), they provide a simple and effective solution for drafting that is second to none. Visit Rotorcraft in Hall H-1| C-23. October/November 2018
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innovations at the ITMA ASIA BONAS, trendsetter in jacquard weaving, will present their latest innovations at ITMA ASIA 2018. The Si range, known as trailblazer in jacquard weaving
Bonas’ other successful Jacquard range, the Ji, is of course displayed as well. This model is available from 1.920 up to 5.760 hooks. The Ji is manufactured in a state-of-the-art factory in Belgium as well as in a brand new plant in Nanjing. Nanjing is producing exclusively for the Chinese market. Hundreds of Ji’s are installed in several countries for numerous weaving applications. At ITMA Asia, a Ji5 equipped with 5.000 hooks will weave Furnishing Fabrics on a Picanol GT Max-340 cm. A Ji2 with 2688 hooks will produce Terry Towels on a Rifa Air Jet. Another 6 Ji’s will be on display at the exhibition weaving from Label over Terry to Furnishing fabrics.
Ji2 jacquard with 2.688 hooks on a rapier loom weaving designs on double width in 8 repeats
thanks to its most compact design, lightweight, low energy consumption and high efficiency is now available from 2.688 up to 31.104 hooks, the largest single jacquard machine available on the market.
Bonas’ Ji range, already producing in many countries worldwide, uses the best jacquard technology. The synergy of the micro-selection technology and the state-of-the-art, maintenance-free drive mechanism with integrated dwell, makes the Ji the reference in jacquard double width weaving. Superior technology at the best price. All the machines are equipped with the latest BONAS Ci Controller. The Linux based BONAS Ci controller and software offer solutions for every weaving application. Use of icons on a 10.4” touch screen is user friendly, self-learning and makes operation very easy and self-evident. The Ci controller is Industry 4.0 compliant and hence ready for the future.
High capacity Si jacquard with 31.104 hooks
On the VANDEWIELE booth you can discover the Si27 on an Itema R9500-340 cm with 27.200 installed hooks, weaving wall covering & bed covers. To date, numerous Bonas Si’s with over 25.000 hooks are installed in the market, weaving a wide range of applications. The performance and stability of the Si is demonstrated while weaving OPW airbags at high speed, with 11520 hooks, on a Dornier Air Jet. The double-sided drive mechanism proves its usefulness. The Bonas Si range is used for all applications on all possible jacquard Air jet, Rapier and Velvet looms. October/November 2018
Van de Wiele is proud to present as a world’s first the 3 meter execution of the Velvet Smart Innovator VSi for plain and jacquard velvets. The main specs of the machine include parallel reed motion, reinforced cross members, single beams over the full width and up to 24 servo driven smart frames. The VSi “345”-type is now available for plain velvets as well as jacquard velvets including light viscose carpets and prayer rugs.
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VSi22 Velvet Smart Innovator for weaving plain velvet on 3 meters width
The new showpiece in carpet weaving is the “HCiX2” in reed 1500 dents per meter, 8 colour frames (1500/8). This high density carpet weaving machine, available in 3 and 4 meters width, is able to weave carpets with up to 5 million points per square meter, creating niche high end products, with a handmade look. The same machine is able to weave carpets in reed 750 dents per meter, using 16 colour frames. More colours or effects can be created using a filling selector. The HCiX2 is perfectly suited for picture weaving: instead of the traditional labor-intensive designing of woven carpet, a photo-realistic picture is processed in real time and converted to a design that fits the weaving machine. The HCiX2 is also available in the common configurations 1200/8, 1000/10, 1000/8… Van de Wiele Spare Parts Service offers technical assistance to all customers for the order and delivery of original VdW parts. Technical assistance is provided with fast response and genuine parts are delivered within short delivery times. These original spare parts, of course assured of Vandewiele’s high quality standard, will increase efficiency of your loom and extent life time.
A key development of Cobble is the Individual Pile Delivery (IPD) for the Colortec tufting machine, giving a more even pile surface of the tufted carpet, resulting in less yarn consumption. The Colortec, in combination with the in-house developed software TuftLink, is able to produce carpet with multiple density and color gradients. Also, it is perfectly suitable for the production of imitation hand-tuft qualities up to 4.2 kg/m², even with combinations of different yarns. On the Myriad tufting machine, designs of 240 m² without repeat are possible for wall-to-wall side matching. The Myriad is available up to 1/12” gauge
Sample tufted on Colortec with a combination of standard acrylic yarn (white) and fancy polyester (black)
and can be equipped with double sliding needlebar. All Cobble tufting machines are available up to 5 meters width. Fabric samples of all these machines will be presented on our stand. SUPERBA S.A.S (France), member of the VANDEWIELE family of companies, is the world leader in space dyeing and heat setting machinery for carpet yarn (PP, PES, PAN, WOOL & blends).
Present on the Chinese market since 1992, SUPERBA is having a subsidiary in Shanghai (SSRO) with sales & technical Chinese people, as well as a stock of spare-parts to ensure a high level of service to local customers. The Chinese market has recovered a satisfying level of activity since 2016 and the number of SUPERBA heat-setting lines sold has increased accordingly, not only to existing companies willing to extend their production capacity, but also to new prospects. The Chinese carpet market is currently focused on the use of polyester and polyamide fibers to manufacture rugs; one of the current favorites is the tufted printed carpet for domestic market. This kind of carpet requires a well-defined pin-point effect to get a precise printed drawing. SUPERBA TVP3 heat-setting line offers the highest pin-point definition with their saturated steam process. The recent improvements in SUPERBA’s space-dyeing technology, like bicolor printing, or dyeing polyester yarn, are likely to arise great interest among the Chinese manufacturers looking for innovative end-products. October/November 2018
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Twice the power! Biancalani AIRO 24 TANDEM
The success of AIRO 24 tumbler in the application to the terry towel sector has been striking. The results obtained with the terry towel are great: the loop is perfectly raised on both sides of the terry cloth thanks to the action of the air that continuously crosses it (cross effect) and the alternating flapping. With the TANDEM version the performance of the AIRO 24 machine is instantly doubled, with a high level of appreciation from the end users in every country where terry towel is an important industry. The volume reaches its maximum levels and also the softness is unmistakable and typical of the AIRO 24 treatment. This Italian machine, with its sustainable treatment, October/November 2018
reaches its highest levels of appreciation from customers also in the sectors of clothing, home furnishings and home textiles. But it is in the terry towel treatment that the AIRO 24 TANDEM offers the doubling of production: the most important producers of this textile can confirm the results of great satisfaction that offers this machine, sustainable and very performing. For more information visit www.biancalani.com to ask anytime to the Biancalani. For the discussion, meet Biancalani team at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 exhibition in Shanghai at stand - H6 | C40.
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No ITMA without KARL MAYER! Versatile solutions under the motto „Cleaner.Productions“
PROSIZE ® - A breakthrough innovation in sizing
Innovations related to key issues of our time KARL MAYER’s exhibition full of future opportunities presented at ITMA ASIA + CITME, Stand B 11, H 4 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai.
new, digital brand will be launched at ITMA ASIA + CITME.
At the upcoming ITMA ASIA + CITME to be held from 15 to 19, October 2018 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, the world market leader will be present on Stand B 11, H 4, with an innovation show on the mega trends of our time, demonstrating how it is possible to implement such major topics as innovations, digitization and sustainability.
Concerning the topic of sustainability, the company will provide versatile solutions under the motto “Cleaner.Productions“. These include new warp knitting machines which have a lower energy consumption due to their intelligent technology, and application concepts with increased advantages for the environment. One of the highlights will show how it is possible to replace formerly mainly woven articles by warp-knitted textiles as an ecological alternative. An example in this respect is TERRY.ECO for the manufacture of terry articles.
As far as digitization is concerned, KARL MAYER underlines its position as the undisputed number one in the market. For the development of new digital solutions with high customer benefit, KARL MAYER recently set up its own company. KARL MAYER’s
The warp preparation business unit will be displaying a sizing machine with minimum resource consumption. Less demand for water, energy and sizing agents also means less costs and thus, even more advantages for the customers. The technical
Reinforcement grid for textile concrete
October/November 2018
COP 5- five-bar tricot machine
Long Chain Beamer
Ball Warper
core of the machine with focus on the ecological aspect will be presented during the trade fair. Besides, a new direct beamer with improved price-performance ratio will also be premiered at ITMA ASIA + CITME. For the production of technical textiles, KARL MAYER will be demonstrating comprehensive expertise in Shanghai. Especially in the building and construction industry it is possible to open up new, lucrative areas of application by using textiles produced on KARL MAYER machines. Important keyword here is textile concrete. Moreover, during the trade fair in Shanghai, KARL MAYER will invite its guests to take part in an in-house show at its plant in Changzhou. Here, the visitors will have the opportunity to see a performance show of the new COP 5 EL equipped with five guide bars, as well as lace raschel machines featuring an excellent price-performance ratio, and new developments in the double-raschel and terry-fabric fields. Besides, the visitors will also have the chance to see market-oriented developments for the warp preparation business, especially for the players in the shirting and sheeting market, and in the denim sector. In other words: an exhibition full of future chances will be waiting for KARL MAYER’s guests.
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at ITMA Asia 2018 in Shanghai • New digital platform: Digital Spinning Suite • Four new G and K models expand product range • Premiere for the Autoleveler Draw Frame RSB-D 26 • SSM with world first winding machine CWX-W • Modernization solutions for existing systems • Customized spinning systems for maximum efficiency and competitiveness • Premium-quality technology components With the new Digital Spinning Suite platform, Rieter writes a new chapter in the digitization of spinning mills. The platform makes it possible to operate and control spinning mills with just a few clicks. It visualizes potential improvements for the entire spinning process at a glance. The Digital Spinning Suite offers more flexible and more accurate functionality than any other available solution; it is open to third-party applications. The new platform with the Rieter rotor spinning system will be presented at ITMA Asia; in 2019, this solution will also be available for ring, compact and air spinning systems. From mid-2019, the existing Rieter digital systems UPtime and SPIDERweb will also be migrated to the Digital Spinning Suite. UPtime adds intelligence to the planning of maintenance tasks in spinning mills. Based on the monitored parameters and big data analytics, the system collects performance-critical data, identifies deviations including causes and indicates potential future errors or even failures. UPtime optimizes the maintenance of spinning mills in terms of predictive maintenance. Four New Ring and Compact-Spinning Machines
Rieter launches the ring spinning machines G 37 and G 38 and the compact-spinning machines K 47 and K 48. G 32 and K 42 remain part of the Rieter portfolio. The 8 series machines are ideal for markets where staff availability is limited and the requirements for flexibility and yarn quality are particularly high. With these all-inclusive models, customers get the benefit of the highest degree of automation, top performance and complete flexibility for standard and special yarns, based on an electronic drafting system drive, the integrated individual spindle monitoring system ISM premium and the integrated slub yarn device. The 7 series machines were designed for markets where the shortage of personnel is not an issue and the requirements for flexibility and yarn quality are high. They allow customers a high level of flexibility due to their unrestricted application range with full machine length, even with all special yarns. The electronic drafting system drive reduces the downtime for article change. The integrated individual spindle monitoring system ISM basic increases the efficiency of the operators – and hence the efficiency of the machine. The new LENA spindle, which is available as an option, facilitates further significant energy savings with the four new models. The compacting system “EliTe® Compact Spinning System” is available as an option on the three conventional ring spinning machines G 32, G 37 and G 38. Premiere for Autoleveler Draw Frame RSB-D 26 Rieter also has interesting things to offer in the field of spinning preparation. The autoleveler draw frame RSB-D 26 celebrates its premiere in Shanghai. It impresses due to superior sliver quality, low production costs and easy operation and maintenance. After-Sales Business Offers Modernization Potential Rieter After Sales improves the performance of existing Rieter machines through a range of
Rieter UPtime
October/November 2018
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G 37 Ring Spinning Machine
K 47 Compact-Spinning Machines
modernization solutions. For example: The latest development from Rieter, the take-off unit, allows the UNIfloc A11 to increase production to a maximum of 1,400 kilograms per hour. Energy consumption can also be reduced by up to 20% and maintenance and spare parts costs can be saved. Advantages of a System Solution Customized system solutions for every customer need: Rieter enables spinning mills to achieve extremely high efficiency rates and a competitive
G 38 Ring Spinning Machine
K 48 Compact-Spinning Machines
advantage over the entire life cycle of a spinning mill. At ITMA Asia, Rieter exhibits practical, interactive examples of four different process lines. Exhibits shown are spinning systems with ring spinning machine G 32, compact spinning machine K 47, rotor spinning machine R 36 and air spinning machine J 26. See for yourself the many advantages on offer from Rieter. Visit Rieter at ITMA Asia in Shanghai from October 15 to 19, 2018: Hall 1, Booth D01.
Discover the benefits of SSM machinery in Shanghai
The Swiss based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, will show the latest applications at ITMA Asia 2018.
World premiere of the new drum winder After the successful introduction of the XENO-platform in 2016 and the X-Series in 2017, SSM has extended the range of applications on these platforms. With the brand new drum winder the power consumption per spindle is lower than ever (down to 35 watt). The small pitch and integrated control cabinet maximize the space utilization. The new drum winder, CWX-W, is also available for assembly winding as CWX-D.
In the top quality segment, SSM customer can now benefit from a wider range of applications, such as fancyflex™ options for the production of slubs and thick & thin effects, controlled overfeed variations, creation of “neps” and intermittent intermingling of drawn textured yarn (DTY). Another benefit is the maximized productivity and profit, when using the DIGICONE® 2 for the XENO-platform to increase the dye package density with unchanged dyeing recipes.
Last but not least SSM is exhibiting the winding machine for the preparation of low-density muffs made of high-elastic yarns. October/November 2018
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Italian Machinery with latest technology offerings in Shanghai Around 130 Italian companies will be exhibiting at the upcoming ITMA ASIA+CITME 2018, from October 15 to 20 in Shanghai. Of these, 63 manufacturers will be presenting their technology offerings within National Sector Groups organized by ACIMIT, the Italian Association of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and the ICE-Agency. The total exhibition surface area occupied by Italian businesses amounts to roughly 6,300 square meters, placing Italy among the main exhibiting nations at the event. Asia, and China in particular, represent the primary foreign markets for Italian machinery manufacturers in the sector. Over the first half of 2018, fully 46% of Italian exports of textile machinery was destined for Asia, compared to 37% for European Countries, and 12% to the Americas. The Chinese market is the main destination for Italian exports, with a 16% share of the total. Over the first six months of the current year, the value of exports amounted to 156 million euros. Other major export destinations for Italian machinery manufacturers in Asia include India, Bangladesh and Pakistan. The most required Italian textile machines in Asia are finishing machines (making up 32% of the total), followed by spinning ones (27%), accessories (20%), knitting and weaving ones (8%) and other machines (5%). All the textile operators, visiting ITMA Asia + Citme 2018, could find among the Italian textile machinery manufacturers the proper answer to their needs in terms of quality, technology and creativity. ACIMIT will be present at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 at the INDUSTRY INFORMATION HUB – Association Village (Hall 1, Stand F58).
Italian Textile Machinery Exports - main Asian Markets (1° half 2018 - million euro)
October/November 2018
Italian Textile Machinery Exports in Asia - Categories (1° half 2018)
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Two brand-new weaving machines and breakthrough weaving innovations Itema, the world’s largest privately held provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services, has prepared an impressive product line-up for ITMA ASIA+CITME 2018 in Shanghai on October 15-19, 2018. Itema at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 Visitors to ITMA Asia will have multiple chances to appreciate and study the Itema weaving technology, with a total of 15 Itema weaving machines on display, of which 6 in Itema booth (Hall 3 Booth C25) and the rest in Partner booths across Hall 3. Absolute stars of the Itema machines’ line-up will be two brand-new rapier machines, both representing the Second Generation of well-known Itema models, the R95002denim and the R90002. Itema R95002denim: to make its debut in China
R95002denim
The second generation of the Itema denim-dedicated rapier weaving machine, the R95002denim will be exhibited for the first time in China for the benefit of Asia-Pacific weavers. Launched in April 2018, the Itema R95002denim already became the success case of the year, amassing interest and requests from all over the world. ITMA Asia visitors will see first-hand the extraordinary advantages provided to denim weavers by the R95002denim.
October/November 2018
Unparalleled cost savings, superior fabric quality and outstanding user-experience are the key words of the R95002denim which features breakthrough devices and enhanced skills guaranteeing an unrivalled competitive advantage in the market to denim mills. Saving is the crucial point of the R95002denim. Not only the optimization of the main mechanical components allows a considerable energy consumption reduction but the machine is equipped with the iSAVERTM, a revolutionary device, never-before-seen in the industry, that eliminates the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric thus leading to unparalleled savings. Designed and developed by ItemaLab – the Itema advanced innovation department, the iSAVERTM combines the most innovative mechatronic principles and provides the saving that the weaver never expected that would have been possible to get. Furthermore, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach to fabric production is possible thanks to a significant reduction in resource use and wastage. The R95002denim is produced with the same quality guarantee in both Itema world class manufacturing plants in Italy and in China, guaranteeing the fastest time to market and the same excellent machine to worldwide Customers. Itema R90002: presented to the weaving world for the first time at ITMA Asia 2018 Produced and assembled in the Itema manufacturing plant in China, the R9000 comes at ITMA Asia in a fully revamped version by borrowing some of the latest Second Generation technological advancements implemented on the Itema R95002denim. The R9000 Second Generation will set the machine even further apart from its competition
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R9500 540cm
Itema R90002
due to tangible and substantial benefits for the weaver. In fact, the R90002 has been implemented with optimized components and mechanical highlights leading to significant energy saving and performance improvements compared to the previous model. Moreover, the new machine’s ergonomy guarantees an outstanding user-friendliness by facilitating machine accessibility for the weaver when carrying out daily textile operations and the Itema Electronic NCP – New Common Platform – comes here loaded on a high-performance, super sensitive touch-screen console. The R90002 on show at ITMA Asia – weaving a fashion apparel style – is equipped with the Itema FPA – Free Positive Approach weft transfer which due to no guiding elements in the shed – ensures superior versatility. Furthermore, the R90002 will run with the Stäubli dobby 2678 providing enhanced speed and superior machine’s performances.
R9500 by Itema the perfect machine for the manufacture of the full range of technical textiles, including ones with the finest monofilament yarn, multifilament yarn with high tenacity, and multiple pick insertion fabrics. Considering the prevalence of technical fabrics production in China and in Asian Countries, the R9500 540cm weaving a coating fabric style will definitely represent an attention point in the weaving hall. On the airjet side, ITMA Asia will be the stage for two Itema airjet machines, the A9500 weaving an apparel fabric and the A9500p weaving a bottom weight fabric. Developed to run faster and launched in the market
Itema booth: the complete line-up In addition to R90002 and R95002denim, two more rapier machines and two airjet machines will be exhibited in the Itema booth.
R9500terry
The R9500terry, the champion of the worldwide high-end terry weaving market comes to ITMA Asia fully loaded with its famous and unique advantages and will weave a heavy bath mat style to show its unparalleled textile versatility and superior fabric quality. Last, but not least, Itema will showcase at ITMA Asia the R9500 in the widest weaving width of its range, 540cm. The continuous roll-out of customized special versions tailored for technical fabrics, as well as dedicated devices for each application, make the
A9500p
during ITMA Asia in 2014, the A9500p is today a real market success due to its tireless production capacity demonstrated in the most demanding Indian mills where a huge number of A9500p daily weave non-stop and with superior fabric quality the widest range of apparel fabrics at the highest production speed. The A9500p on display during the upcoming ITMA Asia will be equipped with all the outstanding technological advancements which make this machine the most innovative airjet in the playground, including the Itema Double Tandem Nozzles which provide superior fabric quality and significant cost savings. Moreover, an absolute key improvement for the benefit of apparel and fashion fabrics weavers will be exhibited on the A9500 - 280cm - on show. The machine will be equipped with the new Pneumatic Tuckers for 10mm selvedges which ensure a superior fabric quality and represent a substantial added value for weavers. October/November 2018
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Itema booth: spare parts and after-sales service In addition to Itema’s line-up of the latest and most innovative new weaving machines in the market, the Company will also feature its spare parts and after-sales support: fast and reliable service when it comes to offering Customers peace of mind through high-quality replacement parts, customized upgrade kits to optimize machine performance and retrofit latest Itema innovations on existing looms, electric, electronic and mechanic repairs to give new life to looms, as well as training to ensure Itema weavers get the most out of their weaving machines. Come by Itema booth to meet our dedicated Product Care and Spare Parts teams. Lamiflex – an Itema Group Company – booth In Hall 3 – Booth E9, Lamiflex representatives will be
on hand to demonstrate the most comprehensive portfolio of original flexible rapier tapes, sprocket wheels and other accessories on the market. Lamiflex invented the first flexible rapier tape in the market and is now an undisputed technological leader when it comes to advanced composite materials design and manufacture of best-in-class tapes and accessories for weaving, as well as a broad range of other industries. First result of synergies between Itema and Lamiflex is the brand-new TLC triple-layer carbon tape featured on the R95002denim. To learn more about Itema’s technological innovations, make sure to visit ITEMA Stand @ ITMA Asia: Hall 3, Booth C25.
Final dimensional stability for textiles by ShrinkTEX Textile finishing, especially sanforizing of woven and knitted fabrics, takes an important role in fabric properties, appearance, softness and residual shrinkage. Sanforizing is carried out for several purposes, the main one is to give fabrics dimensional stability. This process is needed to avoid that garments shrunk after their garmenting. These results can be achieved using ShrinkTEX series for woven and knitted fabrics. Thanks to the rubber belt and the felt calender, ShrinkTEX lines can guarantee the highest standards of quality for the control of residual shrinkage in warp and weft direction. The process guarantees a final dimensional stability near to 0% for wovens, which is complying with the highest international standards of lab controls, while for knits we can go below a final 4-5%. In addition to shrink-proof results, fabrics will October/November 2018
acquire softness and a nice finishing surface aspect. The sanforizing machines that Cibitex offers can be completed with various accessories to process a wide range of cotton and blends woven fabrics. Sanforizing is also used to process synthetics and pigment printed fabrics to assure a better finishing touch to them. The production and controls on the Cibitex machines are fully automated with the supervision of all the production necessary data for machines setting. These lines are the fruit of a long experience and research in closed contact with end users and Cibitex’ customers spread all around the world. This experience is put at disposal of all our new customers who select Cibitex solutions for their finishing and sanforizing process. For further details, visit Cibitex at ITMA Asia - Hall-6 | Booth-C45
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An ideal opportunity to find out Stäubli’s latest solutions at ITMA Asia Stäubli’s extensive range of products and solutions includes: • shedding solutions for frame weaving (cam motions, dobbies) • electronic Jacquard machines with harnesses, in formats for every woven application • weaving preparation solutions for mastering warp preparation and warp tying • weaving systems for carpeting and technical textiles • Deimo automation solutions for sock knitting Stäubli Textile will be presenting its machinery range and latest solutions at two inviting booths at this year’s ITMA Asia. At Booth E01 in Hall 3, weavers will learn about innovations in weaving preparation and see high-speed shed formation solutions for all sorts of woven applications in action. Carpet weavers will see brand new pattern samples that impressively demonstrate Stäubli’s innovative binding technologies. At Booth D14 in Hall 4, knitters are invited to meet with Stäubli knitting specialists and observe the latest automation device in action – it drastically shortens the sock knitting process. ITMA Asia is an ideal opportunity to find out all about Stäubli’s comprehensive product range, which is perfectly suited to the needs of Asian mills. Automation in weaving preparation – Stäubli unveils a world premiere in warp beam preparation With its SAFIR automatic drawing-in machines, Stäubli has made a name for itself as an advanced solution provider for reliable automation in weaving preparation for the widest range of applications. Visitors to ITMA Asia will now see a further October/November 2018
development: the SAFIR S30 set up especially for handling filament yarns. Featuring a new 16 frame/rod capacity, this setup is ideal for high-density warps with fine filament yarns. The SAFIR product range features state-of-the-art AWC (active warp control) technologies such as double-end detection, colour repeat, and S/Z-yarn management. These technologies are the result of continuous research and development driven by Stäubli’s values such as the vision to provide innovations that deliver further advantages to customers. This spirit of innovation has now led Stäubli once again to go one step further in the warp preparation process:
BEAMPRO yarn repeat reading-in machine
As a world premiere at ITMA Asia, Stäubli will unveil the new BEAMPRO yarn repeat reading-in machine, an automation aid at the sizing machine for sizing
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coloured warp sheets. Visitors can learn more about this weaving preparation solution at the show. Frame weaving solutions for water-jet applications As another novelty, Stäubli will be presenting its latest high-position rotary dobbies for water-jet applications, the S2658 and S2678 series. The S2678 will be on display in combination with the new de82/83 harness motions for high mounting, featuring an ingenious design incorporating valuable features such as maintenance-free bearings. These machines can be installed in the high position on the weaving machine, supporting the production of quality patterned fabrics. In addition to electronic rotary dobbies, Stäubli’s S1300 and S1600/S1700 series of cam motions will also be exhibited. These machines are available for high-speed weaving using all type of weft insertions. Jacquard weaving – Large format application on display Visitors will see two complete Jacquard installations
172 and the UNIVALETTE electronic Jacquard machine. The latter features individual warp-thread control, opening vast possibilities for a wide variety of applications. Both machines allow weavers to apply added value to their woven fabrics. Carpet samples showing innovative binding technologies Exclusive samples woven on ALPHA carpet weaving systems will be shown, exhibiting binding technologies and patterns ranging from extra-high-density carpets with traditional patterns to ultra-modern designer carpets. Automatic toe-linking device for a shorter sock production process Stäubli will be showing the recently launched D4S device on two circular knitting machines. This automation solution allows closing the toe of the sock directly on the knitting machine. It significantly shortens the sock production process. Original Stäubli spare parts for extended longevity
LXL electronic Jacquard machine
featuring different kinds of weft insertion. These installations are equipped with the LX and LXL Jacquard machines, designed for the production of terry and large-format clothing fabrics. Dedicated to large formats, the LXL setup is equipped with 19,584 harness cords (format of the machine exhibited is 10,240 hooks). The display will show the heavy payload capacities of this machine when weaving dense clothing fabrics. The LX setup (format of the machine exhibited is 4,096 hooks) will be shown producing terry fabric, operating 6,652 harness cords with two repeats. At the two-level booth, visitors will be able to observe the precise operation of these machines from the ground floor and from above. A DX Jacquard machine will be shown in an area also demonstrating the broad range of Stäubli harnesses. Jacquard weaving solutions for name selvedges Two different examples of this will be shown: the CX
Original Stäubli spare parts
Stäubli offers original spare parts even many years after purchase of the machine. A sampling will be on display at the booth. Visitors to the fair will get a good overview of the vast application areas of Stäubli machinery at many places in the weaving hall and are invited to visit the two Stäubli booths E01 in Hall 3 and D14 in Hall 4. The pioneering products of Stäubli are the result of a well-balanced combination of performance, technical perfection, and proven solutions.
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New Control Centre "senses"
"senses" New control centre to get an overview of the entire spinning mill
Textile professionals definitely should not miss this year's ITMA Asia in Shanghai: The textile machinery manufacturer Saurer is presenting its new "senses" control centre at China's largest textile exhibition. Digital senses for bigger profits "senses" is an innovative control and analysis tool that furnishes textile companies with digital senses: for more profits along the textile value added chain. The innovative Big Data system collects, aggregates and analyses the production, quality and machine data of the entire textile fabrication process across all locations. The valuable data is available to operators on the mill floor as well as mill and company management via an intuitive web interface and standardized ERP interfaces anywhere – even on the move. There's no life without senses, says Michael Nikolic, the responsible product manager in the Saurer Intelligent Enterprise Solution department (SIES). Our five senses are our gateway to the world. They help us to find our way around. They reveal to us both the big picture and the smallest details. We use them to find vital resources. They enable us to react in an instant when danger threatens or when a unique opportunity arises. Without our senses we would be lost. The same applies to companies. Without valid information, they lose their competitiveness.
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"senses" are the digital senses that a textile company needs to make use of raw materials, time, personnel, energy and capital efficiently and profitably. With "senses", operators as well as mill and company management will discover new productivity potential and synergy effects. Anyone who has valid information about their own performance can establish advantageous partnerships and communicate successfully with the markets. "senses" is the gateway to a new world of plannable success. Modular, non-proprietary and expandable The new software from Saurer is non-proprietary. It not only evaluates the production and quality data of Saurer textile machines, but also integrates machines from other manufacturers into the innovative information and control system. "senses" is suitable for companies of all sizes. The software has a modular structure so that customers can book only the modules they need, cost-effectively. A convenient software shop turns software management into child's play: New modules can be booked or cancelled at the click of a mouse. The basic system and the first modules of "senses" will be available from the first quarter of 2019. In the course of the next year, Saurer will then continuously release further modules in the "senses" software shop.
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quality control solutions in Shanghai
Loepfe will present a comprehensive portfolio of quality control solutions for the textile industry at ITMA Asia, which will be held in Shanghai from the 15th to 19th October and will include the well-known YarnMaster ZENIT+ for winding and the WeftMaster FALCON-i for quality control of high-tech materials. Various innovative solutions in different areas of yarn quality control will be shown to ensure an interesting visit to the Loepfe booth for all visitors. New measuring results of the highly precise YarnMaster ZENIT+ OffColor feature collected in cooperation with a customer will be available. The case study shows impressive results in detection of shade variations in polyester. The Loepfe employees will be pleased to provide more detailed information. The increasingly popular yarn defect sensor WeftMaster FALCON-i will also be displayed. After the growing demand noticed from North America, Loepfe sees a similar growth in the Asian market for reliable yarn quality control of latest high-tech materials such
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as carbon fibers, monofilaments, multi-filaments as well as spun yarns in all material compositions. The optical yarn defect sensor removes smallest knots, fluff, filamentation, thick places and capillary breaks before being interwoven into the fabric. The sensor is being used more and more for safety-critical applications such as fabrics for airbags, tire cords, filtration materials, architectural fabrics and sailcloth where quality requirements are very high. The Laboratory Solutions corner will also provide interesting information. With Swiss precision, Loepfe works systematically on its revolutionary laboratory test instruments. The focus during the ITMA Asia will be on the YARNMAP which provides a tremendous increase in yarn testing efficiency with regard to time, space, maintenance and operator attendance. All kinds of short and long staple yarns are tested fully automatically while, at the same time, preparation products of the spinning mill can be tested on a second measuring sensor. Visit Loepfe in Shanghai at Hall 1 Booth C24.
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Groz-Beckert at ITMA Asia with new insights in glass Groz-Beckert will be present with all six product areas and receiving customers and partners at its booth in Hall 4, Booth D25 in the sixth ITMA Asia and CITME.
high-performance tying machine KnotMaster will be presented in the field of weaving preparation.
In order to establish optimal communication in the Chinese market, the Groz-Beckert WeChat Account went online in 2017. Since then, the needle manufacturer has been providing weekly news on the company, its products and services, as well as the latest topics relating to all aspects of the Chinese textile market. The Knitting (knitting and warp knitting) product area will be presenting its portfolio for circular knitting, flat knitting, leg wear and warp knitting at ITMA Asia. The division will be placing a particular focus on a system-oriented approach.This year, a new acrylic exhibit of a sock machine rounds off the glass
KnotMaster
Heald frames and healds, as well as warp stop motions, drop wires and the PosiLeno® leno system will be available for customers to experience in action in the WeavingLoom. Groz-Beckert has expanded its range for application advice with its own staple fiber needle punch line in the field of Felting (nonwovens) in the Textile and Development Center (TDC) in Albstadt, Germany. The division will also be presenting its patented GEBECON® Felting Needle, which offers improved surface quality and optimal bending resistance. The EcoStar® Felting Needle is a real highlight for all applications with the highest demands for surface quality.
Litespeed Plus
For spun lace customers, Groz-Beckert will be presenting the innovative HyTec® jet strip.
insights into the different knitting technologies. The exhibit demonstrates a wide range of Groz-Beckert products in different gauges – with needles and system parts for ten different models from the fields of socks and seamless hosiery.
As a system provider, Groz-Beckert also offers all tool components – consisting of tufting needles, loopers, reed fingers and tufting knives, in the field of Tufting – all from a single source.
As a system provider, Groz-Beckert offers a unique product variety with its Weaving division. The
A perfectly coordinated interplay between the clothings in the field of Carding achieves an optimal
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carding result both in the revolving flat card and in the roller card. The use of special clothing geometries in the nonwovens industry, like the worker and doffer wires SiroLockÂŽ and EvoStepÂŽ leads to better fiber control and a more even web.
The Sewing product area will be showing how the different stitch formation types work in detail at ITMA Asia. The individual stitch types differ in the number and geometrical arrangement of the threads and are divided into six basic types (classes 100 to 600).
Card Clothings
cover chain stitch (cover chain stitch)
For processing synthetic fibers in particular, the company offers a special card clothing with a curved tooth profile: the synthetic doffer wire D40-30-52C CBF.
There will be an opportunity to experience the stitch type 605 (cover chain stitch). It consists of three needle threads, one looper thread and a covering thread and is used for sewing bindings.
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French Technology at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 N.SCHLUMBERGER Head of GC40 chain gill
LAROCHE tearing machine JUMBO 2000
French textile machinery manufacturers are the sixth textile machinery exporters worldwide with world leaders in such fields as long fiber spinning (wool, acrylic), yarn twisting and control (including technical yarns), space-dyeing, heat setting for carpet yarns, carpet systems, dyeing and finishing, felts and belts for finishing processes, nonwovens, air conditioning of textile plants and recycling processes of textile materials. NSC FIBRE TO YARN NSC FIBRE TO YARN will take the opportunity to introduce its service center with its genuine spare parts stock in Zhangjiagang, Jiangsu and significant evolutions. LAROCHE LAROCHE has been a major player in the textile waste recycling and airlaid nonwoven field and is now deeply involved in new technologies for turning post-consumer goods into valuable products. SUPERBA SUPERBA, member of the VANDEWIELE family of companies, is the world leader in space dyeing and heat setting for carpet yarn (PP, PES, PAN, WOOL & blends). SUPERBA TVP3 heat-setting line offers the highest pinpoint definition with their saturated steam process. FIL CONTROL The company stands as one of the market leader for
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SUPERBA TVP3 FULL LINEx2
The Compacting Felt 60x90cm
4 major fields: - Yarn Cutter, which can satisfy all kinds of bespoke demands. - Yarn Sensor, utilizing capacitive, optical, reflective and piezoelectric technology in products such as the Tension Sensor. - Hall Effect Sensor, install on numerous different kind of application, such as motor rpm counting. - Quality Control Devices, such as tension sensor and digital length meter. AESA Air Engineering AESA is a worldwide leader in air engineering for all textile production processes of natural fibers, manmade fibers and filaments in their different stages: spinning, knitting, weaving, hosiery, different types of nonwovens and fiber productions, as well as dyeing and finishing. DOLLFUS & MULLER DOLLFUS & MULLER is a leading manufacturer of endless felts and dryer belts for the textile finishing and nonwovens factories: - compacting felts for knit finishing - sanforizing felts for denim and woven fabrics finishing - printing dryer belts for textile printing - sublimation blankets for transfer printing - decatizing felts for wool finishing - dryer belts for thermo-bonding ovens - tensionless dryer belts for knit finishing
Reiners + FĂźrst presents latest TURBO rings and enhanced travellers at ITMA Asia
The latest generation of TURBO spinning rings provide excellent results especially for Compact and Siro-Compact yarns. Since its introduction more than 25 Mio units of TURBO rings have been installed and contribute to the customers’ success. The enhanced surface allows increasing machine efficiencies by up to 10%. Managing Director at R+F, Mr Benjamin Reiners said, “The new TURBO rings with benefits including low yarn hairiness, longer service life and increased machine efficiency by up to 10% are extremely beneficial for the demanding Chinese spinners.â€? At ITMA Asia 2018 Reiners + FĂźrst will also present new ring travellers for 100% Viskose, as well as Modal, Micromodal und Tencel. World-wide R+F customers achieve highest efficiencies of the ring frames benefitting from unique traveller surface treatments for optimized spinning conditions of each application. Customers value the professional service and support R+F provides for finding solutions of increasingly complex applications. Visitors are invited to stop by at R+F’s booth at ITMA Asia: H 1 – Stand D 10. R+F is a leading manufacturer of premium spinning rings and ring travellers. R+F successfully implements the policy of in-house manufacturing for setting premium quality standards Made in Germany.
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Mesdan AQUALAB at ITMA Asia Accurate assessment of moisture regain and content in textile materials
Mesdan-Lab - division of MESDAN Spa, Italy - has recently introduced AQUALAB, an innovative instrument based on low frequency microwave technology designed for an instantaneous and accurate assessment of regain, moisture content and commercial weight in textiles. It allows high volume control of moisture throughout every stage of the textile chain. The main features of the AQUALAB are • sample weighting not required • extremely fast (just few seconds for each test) • perfect correlation with traditional oven drying system (Delta 0,999) • non- destructive method (no material waste) • maintenance free, no parts wear • no calibration needed • low energy consumption (only 0,1Kwh versus 8Kwh of a traditional regain oven) • very simple operation, no skill required to use AQUALAB • ITMF and ICCTM recognized. The ITMF International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM) gave full recognition to AQUALAB during the International Bremen Cotton Conference in 2014. • IWTO accreditation under process. MESDAN will be exhibiting the Aqualab equipment during ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018, in Hall 1, stand C24, together with other laboratory instruments, like Burstmatic (pneumatic fabric bursting tester), and Airtronic Plus (fabric air permeability tester), and the full line of yarn joining devices. October/November 2018
BMSvision focusing on Industry 4.0 and smart textile manufacturing
Through intelligent wireless networking of all production equipment in the mill, the BMSvision Manufacturing Execution System (MES) turns the huge amount of data originating from various production machines and processes into meaningful information for managers. The BMSvision MES suite for the textile industry includes software modules for real-time monitoring, reporting, scheduling, preventive maintenance, fabric inspection and traceability. The Management Dashboard allows the combined presentation of data from these different software modules into one single web based report showing important KPIs at a glance. ITMA ASIA will also see the premiere of two new BMSvision products: MyMES and Argus. MyMES is an App available for both Android and iOS devices and includes a cockpit and an alert module. With its Cyclops system, BMSvision has been a pioneer in the field of on loom quality control for weaving mills. For the first time ever, a system capable of inspecting unicolor jacquard fabrics is now available for weavers of top quality products. BMSvision looks forward to welcoming its customers and any mill planning its next steps into smart manufacturing on its stand C16 in the weaving hall H3.
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Dornier will exhibit weaving technology for high performance fabrics
Rapier weaving machines, the P2 TGP
Quality before quantity: China turns increasingly to superior quality weaving machines from DORNIER for manufacturing technical fabrics. High-tech boom in China: More and more Chinese textile companies are choosing weaving machines from DORNIER in order to meet the growing demand for high quality technical fabrics for aircraft parts, filters, automotive and safety textiles. At the ITMA Asia International Textile Machinery trade fair in Shanghai (15-19 October), Dornier will exhibit the world‘s advanced weaving technology for producing high performance fabrics. Audacious investment objectives, rising wages, enormous funds for research and development (equivalent to about 226 billion euro in 2017 alone) and emerging aspiration towards quality: China‘s evolution from the overflow production facility for the West into a high-tech industrial powerhouse in its own right shows no signs of flagging. This trend is also reflected strongly in the Chinese textile industry, and is being monitored attentively at the Lindauer DORNIER GmbH (LiDO): “China has always been an important market for us, but since the demand for higher quality textiles has also begun to grow, it has become our biggest market“, says Wolfgang Schöffl, Head of Business Unit Weaving Machines at DORNIER. October/November 2018
In China, LiDO weaving machines are used to create fine scarves and elegant women‘s apparel from cashmere wool and silk as well as intricate airplane parts from carbon fibers. This last category is part of the growing global market for technical textiles, which is supplied with special coatings, airbags, tirecord and filters as well as much else which is manufactured in the Middle Kingdom on weaving machines from DORNIER. And the volume of these high-performance fabrics required just to satisfy China‘s domestic demand is enormous. Flawless processing of high-performance fibers Let us consider filtration, for example: The fact that the Chinese city of Xi‘an cleans its air with the tallest anti-smog tower in the world (100 m) is convincing testament: cleaning air and water is a major concern in China. And this is one reason why DORNIER in Shanghai – for the first time ever in Asia – will exhibit its new P2 rapier weaving machine in its most powerful configuration (Type: TGP). This machine is able to bring a reed beat-up force of up to five tons for producing wide, seamless fabrics for high density air and water filters. “The textile is exposed to exceptionally high forces specifically for wet filtration; seams are weak spots, which should be avoided if possible“, explains Schöffl.
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TMAS members set to showcase the latest innovations in Swedish machinery The highly inspiring, exciting platform for the world to view the latest technological developments, ITMA Asia + CITME is happening in Shanghai, China. TMAS member companies are at the forefront of automation and innovative production processes, they look forward to working closely with Chinese customers on this exciting journey towards next-generation solutions. IRO (H3 C01) will be displaying their wide range of yarn feeding equipment, that are optimized to meet the demands of advanced modern weaving machinery. Eltex (H3 C10) will have their new Eltex EyETM Yarn Tension Monitoring System on display. The system
monitors the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and you are able to immediately detect any fault position. Eton Systems (HS B14) will show their unique concept for material handling, developed to create efficiency, increase production and full traceability. ES Automatex (H5 D04) deliver high performance automated systems with high reliability, designed to meet specific customer requests. TMAS member companies who are participating at ITMA Asia + CITME 2018, include: Eltex of Sweden AB, ES Automatex Solution AB, Eton Systems AB, IRO AB.
Quality makes the difference!
Visit us at the
ITMA Asia H6B21 FASCINATING TEXTILE MACHINERY www.brueckner-textile.com
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British heritage & innovations at ITMA ASIA “To be a good innovator you need to be confident of your ability to make a significant leap and get it right – first time if possible, but certainly to respond very quickly. BTMA member companies have that confidence because they’re used to being leaders in technological development across a wide spread of areas in textile production.” Alan Little - Director, BTMA BTMA helps UK manufactures of textile machinery and associated products improve their export performance. BTMA is highly regarded internationally for its work in linking textile producers with world-beating UK technology companies. Saurer Fibrevision Saurer Fibrevision, a specialist of textile yarn measurement, Fibrevision’s products include on-line monitoring units, sensors and instruments for both at-line and laboratory testing. They will be exhibiting their latest products at ITMA ASIA in Hall 1, F01. Slack & Parr Ltd Slack & Parr Ltd is renowned manufacturer of gear metering pumps to fit any specific customer application, from spinning standard polyester and acrylic to sensitive polymers. They will be exhibiting at in hall H2 and Booth C20. Cygnet Texkimp Cygnet Texkimp is a market leader manufacturer and exporter of fiber handling and converting machinery to process advanced materials for the global aerospace, automotive, wind energy, sporting goods and industrial markets. The five major product category include Creels, 3D & Filament winding, Handling and Automation and Converting. AVA CAD/CAM Group Ltd AVA’s computer-aided design and manufacturing (CAD/CAM) software solutions are primarily aimed at the printed decorative, textile, fashion, flooring, wallpaper, table-top and education industries. Sellers Global Engineers Ltd Sellers Global Engineers are world leaders in the October/November 2018
design and manufacture of finishing machinery for the carpet industry. Garnett Controls On-line control systems for the nonwovens and fiber-related industries are the key products manufactured by Garnett Controls. Their product range includes fiber weight control systems, laboratory instruments and online moisture measurement control. James Heal James Heal is the market leader in the design, development and manufacture of precision testing solutions and support services within the global textile industry. James Heal will be launching their latest new product: TruFade – Light Fastness Tester with Weathering at the ITMA ASIA. SDC Enterprises Limited SDC Enterprises Limited is recognized and trusted globally as a preferred supplier of color fastness testing consumables for use in BS, EN and ISO test procedures. Sam Weller & Sons Sam Weller & Sons is the manufacturer of decatising wrappers, endless felts, belts and cylinder coverings and specialist cotton weavers. Shelton Machines Ltd Shelton Vision produce a comprehensive, powerful and proven Automatic Textile Inspection System known as Shelton WebSPECTOR. These systems are used to reliably inspect millions of meters of textile product everyday.
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Developments in Fibres from Natural Sources Thinking on sustainability and textiles is ripe with misconceptions. Across the full life cycle (growing, manufacturing and specifically usage) natural fibres are not necessarily more sustainable than synthetic fibres. This report covers some of the promising sustainable options which are regenerated into fibres or blended in the existing yarns. EcoVero™ The fibres are produced using pulp, which is derived from the renewable resource wood as raw material. Lenzing purchases wood and pulp derived from responsibly managed forests and certified to come from sustainable sources. It uses an eco-responsible production process by meeting high environmental standards and contributes to a cleaner environment.
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EcoVero™ fibres have been certified with the EU Ecolabel as meeting high environmental standards throughout their life cycle: from raw material extraction to production, distribution and disposal. The fibres can be robustly identified in the final product, assuring you that your purchase contains genuine EcoVero™ Viscose fibres. The fibre generates up to 50% lower emissions and water impact compared to generic Viscose. SeaCell™ The unique properties of seaweed can help to protect our skin against the harmful environmental influences which we are exposed to in our daily lives. The seaweed is pure and rich in essential substances such as vitamins, trace elements, amino
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Kapok tree having natural cellulose fibre in the dried fruit
acids and minerals. The substances found in seaweed can help to activate cell regeneration, which in turn can help to relieve skin diseases, reduce inflammation and soothe itchiness. Its high level of antioxidants protects the skin against harmful free radicals, which damage our skin cells. Smartfiber AG claims that the natural moisture level of the skin enables an active exchange of these beneficial substances between the fibre and the skin, providing a noticeable sense of wellbeing. The fibre is produced from sustainable raw materials – wood and seaweed – using methods that save both energy and resources. The fibre is carbon neutral and completely biodegradable. The dried seaweed is crushed, finely ground and incorporated into a cellulose fibre. Harvesting of the seaweed is a gentle, selective and, most importantly, sustainable process. It removes only the part of the seaweed that is able to regenerate. The seaweed is entirely untreated, and all its ecological value is retained. SeaCell™ is produced using the Lyocell process, an
innovative and eco-friendly production method. Production takes place in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. This meets the expectations of the industry both today and in the future. It is one reason why the European Union awarded the procedure with the 2000 European Environmental Award in the category “technology for sustainable development”. The high-tech fibres are produced exclusively for smartfiber AG on modern fibre production plants at Lenzing AG in Austria. The patented process embeds the seaweed firmly within a natural cellulose fibre. As a result, the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fibre, even after multiple washing cycles. The fibre is suitable for a vast range of applications, from sport and fashion clothing, underwear and loungewear to home textiles, and combines easily with any other fibre. It adds a smooth, silky feel to any fabric, together with the comfort and care elements required from a generation with an active, health-conscious lifestyle. October/November 2018
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CRAiLAR CRAiLAR’s expertise begins with planting the seed in the ground and continues with every aspect of the production chain. Once the plants have been harvested the fibre is mechanically stripped from the stem. This raw fibre is rough and tough and definitely not something you would want to wear or use. The fibre is then transformed via CRAiLAR’s proprietary process into a soft and fluffy fibre made up of thousands of individualized bast fibres. It is claimed that they resemble cotton in feel and appearance, and outperform cotton on almost every level. Bast fibres are among the most environmentally favourable crops on the planet and grow in cool climates without the use of irrigation. The need for chemical inputs is very low – just a fraction of other annual textile crops. Bast fibres produce both food and fibre – seeds of hemp and flax are widely consumed in food and industrial industries. CRAiLAR is Compostable, USDA 100% BioPreferred and Leed Certified. It offers enhanced moisture management (naturally wicking), Improved abrasion resistance, Unchanged garment hand feel and drape, no static, pilling, or lint problems, is machine wash/dryable without being wrinkle prone, and offers improved dye uptake. Strong yet soft, CRAiLAR fibre is well suited for denim, outerwear, footwear, towelling and upholstery. It can be blended successfully with a wide range of natural and synthetic fibres. In textile applications CRAiLAR fibre would generally be blended in ratios of 20-40% with other fibres like cotton, tencel, wool, etc. CRAiLAR can be used in a wide variety of nonwoven applications, including; dry laid, needle punched and hydro entangled. In non-woven applications. It finds applications from industrial wipes, to mop heads, to felted items like insoles. October/November 2018
Kapok fibres in spun yarns Shanghai-based textile brand Flocus produces sustainable yarns blends, fabrics and fillings made with kapok, a natural cellulose fibre found in the dried fruit of the kapok tree. Kapok is the most sustainable fibre in the market leaving no human
footprint behind. Nature has given Kapok numerous properties like its silky soft and dry touch of the fibre itself, anti-moth and anti-mite properties as well as insulation properties comparable to down, and many others. With the most advanced technology in the market, FLOCUS™ can spin the highest kapok %, offer yarns in the finest counts. Utilizing Kapok, FLOCUS™ offers products which can reduce the presence of animal and synthetic products in the market, utilizing a completely natural alternative without abandoning functionality. FLOCUS™ is a 100% sustainable ‘open’ source textile concept in which buyers can tailor blend their needs for their sustainable collections. Kapok fruits are hundreds of pods of about 15 cm each. They contain the seeds of the tree protected by a fluffy, silky and soft fibre.
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Smart Textiles and Connectivity
“Technology becomes invisible and is interwoven in the living environment” Deutsche Telekom is working with the German Research Centre for Artificial Intelligence (DFKI) in Berlin and Berlin University of the Arts (UdK) to research potential uses of Smart Textiles. With the knowledge of research and science, integrated electronic technologies are getting small enough to be invisibly processed into fabrics. Tenuous conductive metal threads are interwoven and embroidered with normal yarns. These technical components react to heat, pressure or tension. They change the colour or the shape, recognize movement patterns, react to them and provide helpful information. Today, sports and medicine are already focusing on research on intelligent fabrics. Just as fashion designers have discovered the fascinating possibilities of combining electronics with design into a digitized garment. Deutsche Telekom’s vision is to take advantage of research on smart
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textiles in in-house connectivity, so Wi-Fi can be individualized and integrated into ordinary textile furnishings. The fusion of textiles and conductive yarns will bring about a completely different and individual in-house connectivity experience. With the interweaving of metallic yarns and microchips, textiles can trigger actions through people’s natural patterns of movement: in-house connectivity can be created by drag, pressure or heat. Wi-Fi will be available where and when needed, integrated into surrounding materials. Connectivity will be experienced in a fascinating way and with a self-determined appearance. With the University of the Arts, Deutsche Telekom has developed appropriate use cases that are
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already experienceable today. By using pressure, tension or heat, Deutsche Telekom developed applications like a bag that changes its colour according to the amount of data availability. A rug that turns Wi-Fi on or off and shows movement patterns. A towel which provides Wi-Fi for guests by tension on the towel rack and which turns it off again as soon as the towel gets into the laundry basket. Tiles that make information readable by heat, for example the warmth of a hand. A wallpaper/tapestry that changes its shape indicating the current state of Wi-Fi. The core business of Deutsche Telekom is connectivity, mobile and at home. The vision and the idea of innovation is to develop intelligent textiles with a completely new kind of in-house connectivity and to realize this for customers with strong partners from research, design and industry. The advantages for Deutsche Telekom customers will be an individual in-house connectivity which is integrated in intelligent textile furnishings. Telekom Fashion Fusion is an example of how fashion and technology merge into a digitized garment. The Deutsche Telekom Fashion Fusion competition is supported by adidas and Intel,
Sport gloves with KeyPod technology - winner
as well as the Premium International Fashion Trade Show and many other well-known partners. Telekom Fashion Fusion programme Deutsche Telekom, through its Telekom Fashion Fusion program, is fostering the visionary ideas of start-ups, entrepreneurs, designers and students in the fashion, technology, and product design industries on new and intelligent ways of linking high-tech, wearables, and smart services. The goal of the Telekom Fashion Fusion program is to use digital technologies to connect apparel, accessories, and devices together intelligently in ways that provide their users with new and innovative benefits. • The challenge was open for start-ups,
entrepreneurs, engineers, fashion designers and students of the fashion, design and technology scene from all over Europe and beyond. • A high-calibre jury made from renowned experts from technology and fashion selected the best ideas and approaches from the many entries in three pre-set categories: Connected Devices & Smart Accessories, Haute Couture & Show Fashion, and Business Solutions & Smart Services. • Coaches and trainers, prestigious specialists from the nexus of cutting-edge fashion and technology, empowered the eight finalists to develop quality prototypes of their concepts in the Fashion Fusion Lab Phase in Berlin and other cities. • The prototypes were then demonstrated at a Fashion Fusion Award Ceremony held during Berlin Fashion Week in July 2018. The following winners of the third annual Telekom Fashion Fusion competition were announced at Berlin Fashion Week. KeyPod Clothes with Superpower: KeyPod aims to add interactivity to any apparel or accessory to enable
Vest with KeyPod technology - winner
the mobile-first generation to focus on the experience, on the here and now, while being on the move. The Keypod team from Haifa was delighted to win the 15,000-euro first prize. Sharon Greenberg, Roman Alperovich, and Einat Israeli make apparel and accessories interactive. Their mission: helping the” mobile first” generation to concentrate on the here and now when they're on the go. The unit integrated in the clothing is revolutionary: small, light, washable, and with a multi-year battery life. Interknitting The idea behind Interknitting is to make human communication visible using wearable knitted interfaces. Second prize was awarded to Zsófi Lévai, October/November 2018
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Interknitting develops apparel which responding to movement, touch or sound - wins second place
Sarolta Setet, and Zoltån Istenes from Budapest for their Interknitting project. Their idea: make interpersonal communication visible through interfaces integrated in the clothing. One interface responds to noises, while another responds to movement and touch – the project even visualizes encounters between two people. The status of the interactions is displayed by LEDs integrated in the knitted clothing.
Team Radice wins third place
Radice Third prize was won by Nele KĂśstler and Jonas Diezun from Munich, for their Radice project. The business idea of Radice is based on the desire to help people have restful sleep. While many apps help users to structure and shape their everyday lives (and work) better and more efficiently, the Radice team has designed an innovative sleeping mask to help their customers get a fresh, active start to the day.
The three winner teams and the jury
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Whats New
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Pointcarre presents a complete solution for color separation
For designing, color separating, recoloring and printing, Pointcarre ColorSep is the complete solution. Saving time and money spent on the materials, Pointcarre ColorSep creates separations in one minute only. These easy to use tools assist by creating amazing halftones images, clean up patterns, and create repeats of the most intricate designs. A full range of textile and surface design tools are included with the software: Pencil, Paintbrush, Bucket etc. These tools have special “Pressure sensitivity” options: The added benefit in precise control is valuable with a tablet or a touchscreen. ColorSep is an incredible tool for rotary and digital printing which makes the users life easier by automating the foremost common tasks that are needed for printing a design. From the heart of Pointcarre, a powerful tonal separation engine assists the user to separate colors, there is no need to be an expert. Pointcarre detects automatically the best colors for printing an image, along with PMS matching. Users can add, remove or change the colors and see print proofs immediately. The most accurate channels can be obtained by just following the intuitive workflow. Color separations have never been so quick and simple to create. Pointcarre Color Separation provides all the tools that are required to recolor watercolor images: The Pantone® Color Library is included with the Pointcarre software. Users can easily build custom color libraries or import ones from alternative systems to be used. This calibration system allows the user to simulate on paper the same results that would be obtained if printing on cloth. Thanks to Pointcarre Composer, Print Layouts can now be customized, assigned, mapped and sized. Add color chips and any information needed to the page. Each color chip will list its name, number and coordinates and even include the user’s company logo.
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Developing green alternatives for artificial leather in footwear To develop a sustainable solution for coated textile materials for shoes, Lenzing and Covestro have collaborated. Despite all of its properties, genuine leather is being increasing criticized by animal welfare organizations as well as the growing vegetarian community and also because the environmental impact of the conventional tanning industry with its high water consumption and chemical use is very controversial.
Artificial leather is not very sustainable and can also cause severe health effects, due to which Lenzing and Covestro joined forces to develop sustainable coated textiles for the footwear industry. Both companies are working to provide sustainable solutions to the market. Lenzing, known as an innovation leader for high-quality fibres made from the renewable raw material wood with environmentally friendly and innovative technologies, has recently entered the footwear segment.
technology uses 95% less process water than with conventional PU and in a recent life cycle assessment study they found, that it substantially reduces the carbon footprint of the material by 45%, as compared to conventional, solvent-based technology.”
Covestro’s Mr Thomas Michaelis, recognizing a strong interest in environmental concerns said, “We moved our focus from solvent based to a waterborne system. Covestro’s Insqin brand stands for new Polyurethan Dispersions formulations, entirely free from DMF. According to an internal Covestro study, the production of PU synthetics with Insqin
Tencel Lyocell is known to have a smaller environmental footprint compared to conventional cotton. In particular, the water impact of Tencel Lyocell fibres is up to six times lower than that for conventional cotton, according to Lenzing. Additionally, to this significantly smaller footprint, Tencel Lyocell fibres are compostable and are bio-based originated.
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Whats New
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US varsity student cultivates bacterial cellulose in lab
A student at the Liberty University in Lynchburg, Virginia, Mr Luis Quijano, to cultivate durable bacterial cellulose that can be used in home grown clothes but needs to be refined for commercial use, used white sugar, green tea, kombucha tea, distilled water, coconut oil, food color and vinegar. According to Mr Luis Quijano, bacterial cellulose is comparatively more eco-friendly to produce. Mr Luis Quijano by research work and utilization of more efficient growing processes, wants to modify the manufacturing process so that the bacterial cellulose can be grown faster. Additionally, he also wants to explore new methods of waterproofing the bacterial cellulose. In the world of fashion, there is a growing interest in using recycled and alternative fabrics. Partly, this is driven by environmental concerns: The fashion industry is notorious for being a major polluter, and the amount of natural resources required to fuel the industry is staggering. Also, the supply of natural fibers and leather is limited. But there is also the novelty factor: People might want to wear cool new materials, and brands want to position themselves to respond to that demand.
Gerber welcomes Fusalp to Digital Solutions family To power the company from design to production Gerber Technology has announced that French skiwear brand Créations Fusalp has chosen YuniquePLM. Since 1952, Fusalp has been developing and clothing both ski enthusiasts and Olympic champions with functional outerwear and fashionable knitted sweaters and sweatshirts. Ms Sophie Duflos and Odile Renard, both drivers of the supply chain at Fusalp said, “We found that Gerber’s YuniquePLM was the most robust system to effectively deliver data from our creative team through to production of the garments.” Fusalp draws dynamic silhouettes to create slender October/November 2018
lines allying technicality and performance without compromising on style and comfort. Créations Fusalp has begun its digital journey with Gerber’s product lifecycle software YuniquePLM, designed to enhance data connectivity from the creative’s team Adobe Illustrator through to the ERP systems. The availability of YuniquePLM on the Cloud was a contributing factor to Fusalp’s decision, while enabling its team to streamline their workflow and to support the company’s growth. Fusalp will also be integrating Gerber’s AccuMark software with YuniquePLM, to improve efficiency and gain better control of its pattern grading and marker data.
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Invista to launch 'Crafted in Japan with Cordura Fabric' Leading fibers and polymers company, Invista Japan, has declared its new ‘Crafted in Japan with Cordura? Fabric’ series together with leading Japanese brands to showcase specialized manufacturing techniques and cutting-edge design. The campaign is a testimony to the Cordura brand’s appreciation and support for Japanese craftsmanship. Incorporating Cordura fabric technologies trusted by the US military for exceptional strength and durability, the series celebrates the development of forward-thinking, innovative bag, pack and carry solutions built to withstand the test of time. In the initial phase of the project, made in collaboration with the leading bag brand master
piece (MSPC), the Cordura brand will release a video. Close up shots of the detailed work of the artisans will be taken including design planning to cutting and sewing, the video will emphasize the intricate detail and beauty of Japanese craftsmanship with Cordura fabric. Mr Takashi Kawasaki, Cordura brand Japanese business manager said, “Cordura fabrics are used in a wide variety of stylish and long-lasting products from apparel to bags, packs, and footwear, and are trusted by many militaries and protective clothing companies around the globe. Our new series demonstrates how these fabrics can be utilized by Japanese brands and designers, who are global tastemakers on the forefront of product innovation.”
Teijin Frontier Develops Linen-like Polyester Fiber The Teijin Group’s fiber and products converting company has declared that it has developed a linen like new fiber that boasts an extremely fresh, natural appearing for extra comfortable outer clothing, bottoms, jackets and blouses. Teijin Frontier is going to commercially launch the product in the 2019 spring/summer season, targeting annual sales of 250,000 meters by the fiscal year ending March 2021. Natural look alike synthetic fibers have drawn attention due to their combination of easy care, functionality and cost performance at the same time when the prices of natural fibers are rising due to increased demand for natural materials. Moreover, high-functional linen-like materials are gaining popularity with the reprisal of certain 80’s retro
styles. In response, Teijin Frontier has developed its linen-like polyester by utilizing a special technique to capture the unique uneven feeling of linen. The fiber, in addition to offering the resilience, luster and natural appearance of linen, also boast properties that natural linen materials do not offer, easy care and functions adding. For a complete natural look, the distinction between the thickest and thinnest components of the thread is regarding 1.5 times in diameter. While natural linen is at risk of wrinkling and bleaching, Teijin Frontier’s linen-like polyester is wrinkle resistant and retains its color because of dimensional stability. Furthermore, the new fiber doesn’t stick to skin, is stretchy, washable, customizable as well as pleasingly comfortable because of its fine uneven surface. October/November 2018
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ProGARM introduces arc flash protection gloves and belt belts are often worn with the addition of a traditional belt to ensure a tighter fit, in turn making garments more comfortable.
ProGARM, the UK’s specialist in arc flash protection, has declared the launch of 2 innovative products arc flash dexterity gloves and a flame-resistant belt which are designed to increase the safety of workers at risk from an arc flash incident. While those across the UK at risk of an arc flash are already encouraged to wear full PPE, workers crucially ought to grasp and hold items well, which means that ill-fitting arc flash resistant gloves are often disregarded because of their impracticality. And when it comes to the universal fit of safety garments,
None arc flash protecting gloves and belts can burn and melt under the extreme heat of an arc flash, inflicting severe burns to the skin that might disable the casualty’s ability to work for a long period afterwards and leave them with a dynamic life change, if not fatal injuries. ProGARM’s arc flash dexterity gloves are coated with neoprene and natural rubber to ensure comfort, grip and flexibility. Thus, providing the user with A4/Cut five resistance, along with heat and arc flash protection, making them appropriate for a number of high-risk environments. The company’s new belt is formed using inherent flame resistant materials and also features a buckle as well as an end tip made from PA 6.6 which is a material with extremely high temperature resistance.
Teijin introduces Silk Wool polyester material as a new SOLOTEX® family product The Teijin Group’s fiber and products converting company has declared that it has developed an new innovative polyester material that achieves the design, texture, aesthetic appeal and comfort of hybrid silk wool for a wide range of medium-thickness apparel applications including jackets and bottoms, as a new product of SOLOTEX family. A hybrid of silk and wood, Silk wool came into existence in the 1950s which is a high function material noted for swelling, smoothness, softness, mélange and dense colorings is a combination of properties not possible with synthetic material until now. The new SOLOTEX material offers silk wool-like October/November 2018
high-quality look, softness and smoothness, elegant gloss, and dense coloring. Teijin Frontier uses a multi-thickness structure to process straight polyester filament yarn, employing a proprietary higher-order thread-processing technology to achieve the luxurious look and feel of natural silk wool. Later the yarn is blended with SOLOTEX and at last undergoes post dyeing processing. The new SOLOTEX material realizes colorings with dense spots that are close to those of natural materials. It additionally eliminates the dry, rough touch of traditional wool-like materials and replicates the smoothness and high resiliency of wool.
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Sanguis project to produce universal plasma from donated blood Leading a consortium of expert consultants in their respective fields, the Nonwovens Innovation Institute (NIRI) has reached successful proof-of-concept in developing an innovative and new nonwoven filter technology – through the Sanguis project – to get rid of antibodies from donated blood then produce universal plasma. The Sanguis filter uses an artificial antigen that mimics the structure of the naturally occurring antigens found in red blood cells, incorporating NIRI’s patented linker technology and nonwoven expertise. The process for producing universal plasma involves functionalization of conventional melt blown filter media with the artificial antigen, welding into hard plastic casing and, finally, sterilization. During the functionalization process, the filament surface in the nonwoven was plasma treated, introducing carboxylic acid groups onto the fiber surfaces, providing a grafting point for other species, i.e. the antigen. Quantification of functionality has been determined and the process has resulted in a loading level in excess of that required for antigen immobilization.
Wrangler first to adopt Dry Indigo® Denim Wrangler is the primary to embrace innovative technology of a new foam dyeing method that is going to help eliminate 99pc of the water generally used in indigo dyeing. This can transform the denim industry. The primary line of foam-dyed jeans are going to be Wrangler’s most up-to-date action to minimize environmental impact and save precious resources. An agreement has been confirmed by Wrangler to produce denim fabric this year by using this technology. Recognizing the potential of this breakthrough, Wrangler and also the Walmart Foundation provided Texas Tech University with early-stage funding for development of the foam-dying method. The Iconic Denim Brand has helped introduce fabric mills to the newest technology and will currently incorporate the recent foam-dyed denim into a line of jeans launching in 2019. Tejidos Royo, a fabric mill in Spain with a reputation for prioritizing environmental performance, are going to be first to integrate the foam-dye method, that it calls Dry Indigo. Royo is scheduled to receive the foam-dye machinery in the month of October and expects to start providing supply to Wrangler with denim before. Among the brand’s incontestable sustainability actions the ongoing operations in the US sustainable cotton also includes a commitment to lower wager consumption by 5 billion liters by 2020. As per Royo, applying indigo dye to raw denim with foam rather than water can eliminate the necessity for the tens of million gallons of water generally consumed by typical wet-dye systems. October/November 2018
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ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 An International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition October 15-19, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) Shanghai, China.
DPS World 2018 Pakistan’s premium Digital Printing & Signage exhibition Novenber 02-04, 2018 Venue: Expo Center Lahore, Pakistan.
International Apparel & Textile Fair Sourcing Fair for Apparel and Textile industry November 12-14 , 2018 Venue: Dubai World Trade Centre.
IGATEX Karachi 2019 International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition February 26-28, 2019 Venue: Expo Centre Karachi, Pakistan.
DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR The second largest flooring trade exhibition worldwide March 26-28, 2019 Venue: New International Exhibition Centre (SNIEC) Shanghai, China.
Techtextil 2019 Leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens May 14-17, 2019 Venue: Frankfurt am Main, Germany.
Heimtextil 2019 Int'l event for interior textiles, interior design and interior trends January 08-11, 2019 Venue: Messe Frankfurt, Germany.
FESPA Global Print Expo 2019 Leading international trade fair for screen, digital and textile printing May 14-17, 2019 Venue: Messe MĂźnchen, Germany.
GTex Global Expo Karachi An international Textile Machinery Brand Expo January 19-21, 2019 Venue: Expo Center Karachi, Pakistan.
ITMA 2019 The world's largest international textile machinery exhibition June 20-26, 2019 Venue: Barcelona, Spain.
textalks.com/category/events.
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