TEXtalks International - November/December 2017

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November/December 2017

“Let’s create... together”


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Editor-in-Chief Yousaf Fareed Editor Hassan Saeed Sub-Editor Saba Noor Alexandros Ali Khan Farooq Malik Advisory Board: Dr. Tanveer Hussain Dr. Muhammad Tausif Imran Sarwar Marketing Manager Sadia Javaid Saeed Ahmed Abdul Haseeb Layouts Faizan Khan Circulation Incharge Abdul Mughees Adddress C-302, City Towers Main Boulevard, Gulberg II Lahore-Pakistan Phone: + 92 42 35 788 700 Fax: + 92 42 35 788 700 Email: info@textalks.com Skype: textalks www.textalks.com

DPS World 2017 led to successful business collaborations; ICTT on importance of technical textile; Ministry revised PM export package; Cotton production estimated to be 12.60mm bales Third successful DPS World 2017 was held at Expo Center Lahore on October 20-22, 2017 where a large number of visitors from across the country visited. The event proved to be a great success leading to a number of business opportunities for digital printing and signage industry. Inaugurated by Mr Tahir Javed Malik the President of Lahore Chamber of Commerce, the event was attended by a large number of dignitaries who showed great interest in the displayed digital technology and machinery. The exhibition covered two halls where one was precisely projecting the textile digital printing while the other displayed a large number of digital printing and signage related machinery from the leading companies in the world. The exhibition also introduced a large number of latest trends and technologies to the digital textile and signage market. The 1st International Conference on Technical Textile highlighted the importance of technical textile providing a platform for the textile industry on November 9-10th 2017 at the National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan. The event proved to be an influential platform for the enhancing the knowledge and expertise related to technical

textile and its importance. The conference focused on exchange of research related ideas and generated results, through keynotes, poster session, panel discussion, and oral presentations. The Ministry of Textile Industry has revised “PM Exports Package� of incentives for textile sector exporters according to which 50% of the rate of drawback of local taxes and levies shall be provided without condition of increment. The textile division also notified that duty drawbacks under this order shall be allowed for exports goods declaration at the rate of 7% for garments, 6% for made-ups, 5% for processed fabrics, 4 % for greige fabric and yarn. The Cotton Crop Assessment Committee (CCAC) estimated that the cotton crop output at 12.60 million bales for the crop season 2017-18. The 2nd meeting of CCAC held with Federal Secretary Ministry of Commerce and Textile Industry Hassan Iqbal in the chair. It was informed that cotton crop had been cultivated over 1,865 hectares of land in KP, whereas about 90 % crop picking had completed and average 15-18 munds crop achieved.

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TEXNews

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Cover Story Mimaki Europe B.V.

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Happenings

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Corporate Highlights

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Reports Generalised Scheme of Preferences in South Asia Moisture Wicking “Cool Action Suit” Spinning the Future of High Performance Fabrics

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What’s New…

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TEX Events

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News

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Ministry of Textile industry revised PM export package In a notification, the Ministry of Textile Industry has revised “Prime Minister Exports Enhancement Package” of incentives for textile sector exporters according to which 50% of the rate of drawback of local taxes and levies shall be provided without condition of increment.

namely: Duty Drawback of Taxes Order 2017-18. It extends to the whole of Pakistan including export processing zones and shall come into force at once. The duty drawbacks under this order shall be allowed for exports GDs filed on or after the said dates in July 2018.

The textile division of Pakistan has also notified that duty drawbacks under this order shall be allowed for exports goods declaration (GDs) filed on or after July 1st, 2017 to 30th June, 2018 at the rate of 7% for garments, 6% for made-ups, 5% for processed fabrics, 4 % for greige fabric and yarn. Notification further stated that in pursuance of entry 7 of item 39 of Schedule II of the Rules of Business, 1973, the Prime Minister package of incentives for exporters approved by Economic Coordination Committee (ECC) of the Cabinet.

The Ministry of commerce and textile showed their commitment to increasing value addition through Prime Minister “Trade Enhancement Package” amounting to Rs 162 billion for the textile industry, announced by the government. They told media that “We want to revive the confidence of the textile sector through PM ‘Trade Enhancement Package’ amounting to Rs 162 billion for the textile industry.”

ECC approved the incentives in order to provide duty drawback of taxes collected from garments, home textiles, processed fabric, greige fabric and yarn manufacturing cum-exporter units. Duty drawback of taxes order 2016-17, textile division makes the order, namely: “Duty Drawback of Taxes Order 2017-18”. It extends to the whole of Pakistan including export processing zones and shall come into force at once. The notification issued also states that in pursuance of entry 7 of item 39 of Schedule II of the Rules of Business, 1973, the Prime Minister package of incentives for exporters approved by Economic Coordination Committee (ECC) of the Cabinet. ECC approved the incentives in order to provide duty drawback of taxes collected from garments, home textiles, processed fabric, greige fabric and yarn manufacturing cum-exporter units. Duty drawback of taxes order 2016-17, textile division make the order,

In revised Prime Minister Package of incentives for exporters approved by Economic Coordination Committee (ECC) of the cabinet in order to provide duty drawback of taxes collected exporter units and extends to whole Exports Processing Zones (EPZs) in the country. Senior official said that 50% of the rate of drawback shall be provided without condition of increment and remaining 50% of the drawback rates shall be provided, if the exporter achieved an increase of 10% in export during fiscal year 2017-18. Senior official informed that Rs 946 million was allocated in Public Sector Development Program (PSDP) 2017-18 for three different projects in textile sector. Further it was said that small incubator industry was also proposed for coming years Public Sector Development Program (PSDP) to persuade the young entrepreneur like Malaysia and Vietnam. Speaking on the whole the PM packages seems to be implemented soon, though with some changes but all for the good and revival of the textile sector of Pakistan, overall.

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Bank of China’s operation in Pakistan will boost economic activities The Prime Minister Shahid Khaqan Abbasi, said that launching of Bank of China’s operations in Pakistan would be a significant milestone in further strengthening of banking ties and promotion of economic activities between the two countries. The statement was given while the PM was having a word with Chen Siqing who is the Chairman of Bank of China. Referring to the China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC), the Prime Minister observed that the flagship initiative was a clear manifestation of the firm commitment of the leadership of the two countries to

work in close collaboration for the socio-economic development of not only the people of the two countries but also for the region and beyond. The Prime Minister also highlighted the huge economic potential and vast opportunities created by the CPEC project and observed that the Government of Pakistan was committed to providing facilities to the foreign investors and business community in undertaking profitable business ventures in the country. Chen Siqing thanked the Prime Minister for support and cooperation extended for the launching of Bank of China’s operations in Pakistan.

Made in Pakistan Expo to be held in UK UK Pakistan-Chamber of Commerce and Industry (UKPCCI) has planned to organize “Made in Pakistan Expo” in UK that will be held in October 2018. The purpose of the event is to promote Pakistani products in the Britain market. The information as given by the President UK-Pakistan CCI Chaudhry Muhammad Sadeeq, who along with a 10 members delegation visited Islamabad Chamber of Commerce and Industry. The delegation had representatives from chain of hospitality and restaurants, real estate, furniture, health, education, importers of rice and food products, livestock and halal meat. On the event, President UKPCCI said that Pakistani community in November/December 2017

UK wanted to see a progressive and prosperous Pakistan as they had utmost love for it. He said a 25-member delegation of UKPCCI was visiting Pakistan to attend Karachi Expo and study its market as Overseas Pakistani investors in UK were keen to explore opportunities of joint ventures and investment in various sectors of Pakistan’s economy. He further said that the delegation has already held fruitful meetings at Karachi and Lahore many delegation members have also finalized business deals in Pakistan. He insisted on focusing on the positive projection of Pakistan rather than a negative one.


What’s New in DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR 2018 DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR – the annual epicenter for Asia-Pacific flooring professionals now welcomes visitors to register for the 2018 edition, March 20th – 22nd in Shanghai. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the event’s fruitful campaign and to celebrate, 100+ pre-registered visitors will be granted signature VIP access and receive invitations to concurrent conferences and festivities during the show. InnovAction - The InnovAction Flooring Campaign empowers Carpet, Wood, and Resilient flooring companies to LAUNCH new products within custom showcases. These flagship pavilions are designed by Kostas Chatzigiannis and his team of international architects at KCArchitecture. Companies looking to introduce their products to an audience of 55,000+ at DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR should contact Lida Kokkini at +86 21 61956039 or email lida.kokkini@vnuexhibitions.com.cn. Outdoor Decking – Hosted Buyers Program - 15 international wood flooring professionals looking to

increase their business ventures in China will have the opportunity to network and participate in exclusive meetings with up to 100 Chinese exhibitors from the outdoor decking sector. Some of these exhibitors include: SENTAI, NEWTECHWOOD, VIDAR, SUNSHINE, FORESTAR, LESCO-KINGFA, ZHENGYUAN, HELONG, FURISEN, & XINFENG. Candidacy is based on a company’s purchasing power and level of interest in the Chinese Wood Flooring market. To apply, all interested parties are encouraged to contact Mr. Lawrence Zhang directly at +86 2161956065 or email Lawrence.zhang@vnuexhibitions.com.cn. Luxury Brands - VIPs and invited guests will have the opportunity to visit Luxury Brands, a distinct display area presenting 15 world-renowned carpet designers who indulge invitees with a variety of new, extravagant products. Luxury Brands is co-organized and sponsored by COVER Magazine, a key partner of DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR.

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Italy grants for duty free access to Pakistani products

Italy agreed for a duty free access to Pakistani products for stimulating an impressive growth in bilateral trade. Bilateral trade between Pakistan and Italy has increased from 906.96M Euros in 2013 to 1.2B Euros in 2016, Secretary Commerce Muhammad Younas Dhaga said in undertake meetings with high officials of Ministry of foreign affairs and Ministry of economy of Italy on a visit to Italy. The purpose of the visit was to exchange views on matters pertaining to bilateral trade as well as to discuss upcoming review of Generalized Schames of Preference (GSP-Plus) by the European Parliament, Ambassador of Pakistan in Italy Nadeem Riyaz,

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Commercial Councilor of Pakistan Ms. Saira Imdad Ali, and Deputy Secretary; Ministry of Commerce Ahmed Fasih also accompanied Secretary Commerce. He said that this represents an increase of 35% and both sides agreed that bilateral trade could be enhanced beyond the existing levels, in statement issued by Ministry of Commerce. During the meetings the Italian side showed considerable interest in learning about the investment opportunities in Pakistan in the fields of infrastructure, energy and Automobiles. Secretary Commerce explained that Italian business could benefit from opportunities available to foreign investors in SEZ and EPZ in Pakistan.


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12.44% increase in textile exports in September 2017 Minister for Commerce and Textile Muhammad Pervaiz Malik apprised the Senate that country’s textile sector export witnessed 12.44% and 8.55% increase in September and August respectively as compared to last year corresponding year owing to special package announced by the government. Replying to various supplementary questions during Question Hour, the minister said the Prime Minister had announced package worth Rs 1 billion to the textile sector to enhance exports. To another question, he said Pakistan’s exports stood at $ 20.448 billion against imports of $ 53.026 billion during fiscal year 2016-17. Major export items

were rice, made-up articles, leather manufactures, fish and fish preparation and fruits while major import items were petroleum products, power generating machinery, petroleum crude, road motor vehicles and electrical machinery & apparatus, he said. While replying to a question, the minister said a total 3182 industrial units were set up across the country. Giving the breakup, he said 501 units were set up in Faisalabad, one in Gilgit, 183 in Islamabad, 942 in Karachi, 1385 in Lahore, 111 in Multan, 119 in Peshawar, 9 in Quetta and 11 in Sukkur. He also said Pakistan has also signed three Free trade agreements with Sri Lanka, China and Malaysia.

Heimtextil 2018: international trade fair for home and contract textiles in Frankfurt Planned to be held in Frankfurt from January 9-12, 2018, the exhibition is world's most important platform for furnishing and upholstery fabrics. This time the event had booked additional hall level 4.2 that will present furnishing and upholstery fabrics. In the past few events, the trade show has shown a prominent increase in the number of high-quality suppliers of furnishing and upholstery fabrics and now the upcoming season is expected to set a new milestone for the service providers of the industry. Heimtextil 2018 will present upholstery and decorative fabrics on a total of five hall levels (3.0, 3.1, 4.0, 4.1 and 4.2). The Hall 3 will be presenting textile manufacturers and leather suppliers from Europe where around 50 textile manufacturers will present their collections. Heimtextil 2018 is also November/December 2017

recording steady growth among leather suppliers. Hall 4.2 will expand the range of products and services in this segment from 2018 onwards. More than 400 manufacturers will be exhibiting their wares; among them would be a number of international names. While the range of decorative and upholstery fabrics in hall 4.2 will offer individual solutions for architects and interior designers. Hall 6 will have a total of three floors that are available for exhibitors from Asia to present a wide range of products. Heimtextil 2018 thus ranges from suppliers of the highest quality goods to suppliers of functional textile solutions in this segment and also manufacturers of high-volume goods and seems to be the most important event of year 2018.


Denim Première Vision, the leading premium denim supply show hosted world’s famous denim brands Denim Premiere Vision is a leading premium denim supply show that was held in Paris Event Center, Paris, France on November 14-15, 2017. The Denim Première Vision is a biannual fair that focuses on initiating movement, surprise and innovation organized by the Première Vision S.A which is a leading French company that has been organizing textile and fashion trade fairs since 1973.

displayed by weavers, manufacturers, fiber producers and finishing companies from different countries. Denim by Premiere Vision is indicative of how denim wear has revolutionized casual dressing all over the world. Some 72 exhibitors participated in the show, and availed the opportunity to catch the attention of key decision makers from leading denim wear companies etc. in the Apparel & Clothing industry.

The relevance of its strategic choices, and the quality of its services, has earned the company an impres-

The event comprehensively offered all the products and expertise that one might need for their denim

sive international recognition. Première Vision S.A. is a subsidiary of Association Première Vision, a textile trade association, and GL Events, a world leader in the events business, and is today at the heart of a comprehensive international network.

collections. The industry experts used this event as a mean to find innovations, techniques, expertise, services, R&D: the very soul of indigo. With a large number of exhibitors and visitors the event was once again a success and an impressive platform for hosting the inspiration for targeted market perspectives. The event displayed special Denim trends area, cutting-edge products, special finishing, and the season fits. According to the official numbers about 3,000 international denim heads visit the show including pure players, premium brands, star designers, luxury houses, major retailers, denimistas, and iconic personalities.

This event showcased products from Apparel & Clothing industry and products related to Denim. The Premiere Vision has designed and dedicated this event specifically to the makers of denim wear. This event hosts world famous denim brands, inviting them to be a part of a unique showcase where a wide variety of denim garments and accessories are

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be a part of inspiring Change

International Conference on Textiles Covering the emerging global issues & the innovative solutions for textile industry The strategic geographic location of Pakistan and the recent progress in CPEC (China Pakistan economic Corridor) has attracted the investors’ interest in Pakistan, from around the globe. Textile industry is one of the most important sectors and is backbone of Pakistan’s economy. Amid all the potential, the textile industry is facing challenges and a clear way forward is the need of the time. The industry has gone through many challenging phases in past few years. The lack of implementation of policies and the absence of a proactive approach by industry have led to the recent turmoil in this key sector. TEXtalks International is providing a new forum to facilitate the industry to identify key problems and, more importantly, their solutions. A platform where the industry experts can sit with all key stakeholders to find the solutions. Objectives of the Conference • to disseminate the latest global trends • to present overview of Innovative technological advancements • to find solutions for the key challenges faced by the textile industry • To suggest measure to boost the sector leading to increase in the textile exports. History Since its establishment in 2006, TEXtalks International is serving the textile industry efficiently and effectively, by providing latest updates and

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reviews with the aim to seamlessly connect different sectors of the industry. Dates & Venue of Conference A two-days conference will be held in LahorePakistan on April 24 & 25, 2018. What will be Presented The event will bring an opportunity to our participants to attend “TEX(tile)-talks” by a number of key national and international experts who will share wealth of their knowledge and experience about various issues related to textile industry. The participants will also get the opportunity to directly interact with the experts. Who will be Attending The conference will be attended by senior corporate personal from textile industry including; • CEOs from the sector • Technical Heads of the textile industry • Representative of Government Agencies • Leading Academics, Researchers and Engineers • Textile machinery manufacturers • Textile importers and exporters The event is expected to host more than 250 key decision makers from all over the world. We will keep you posted with the details about the topics, speakers and participants in future TEXtalks issues. To be a part of the Inspring Change, reach us now at email: info@textalks.com phone: +92 42 35 788 700


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Long staple cotton production in Egypt to be expanded Long staple cotton production in Egypt will be expanded and 128 firms owned by the public business sector are being renovated to boost production said Prime Minister Sherif Ismail. He further added that the government is also keen on renovating public spinning and weaving firms. The premier made the remarks during the inauguration of the second "Destination Africa Fair" for apparel and textiles, which is co-organized by ExpoLink. The state is keen on renovating public spinning and weaving companies, as well as state-owned and private weavers, Ismail said. He added that the production of long staple cotton will be expanded, noting that 128 companies owned by the public business sector are being renovated to boost production. "Destination Africa" is a sourcing event for apparel and textiles from Africa targeted only at a limited number of invited trade visitors. The two-day fair last week was jointly organized by the Egyptian Government and the Egyptian Exporters Association – Expolink. The product range comprises both ready-to-wear clothing for men, women and children and textiles, as well as fabrics for apparel and interior design, such as bed and table linen, curtains, carpets and upholstery. Egypt wants to reach out to Africa as it attaches a lot of importance to the continent, a press release from the fair organizers said quoting the prime minister. About 75 companies took part in the fair that took place at Nile Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Cairo on November 11-12. November/December 2017



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Conference on “Emerging Trends in Knitting” Department of Knitting is going to arrange a two days conference on “Emerging Trends in Knitting” from 7-8th February 2018 at National Textile University, Faisalabad. The objective of the conference is to enhance interaction between researchers and professionals working in the field of Knitting. Many CEOs, machine manufacturers, government personages, industrialists and technical experts are attending this conference. Some international dignitaries are also expected to join. The participants of this conference will get a podium to listen, share and invigorate applied research and recent advancements in Knitting. Technical Training for individuals from the industry and others and competition of innovative products from industry and academia are also part of the event. All participants who want to sponsor or present their idea(s) can contact Dr. Hafsa Jamshaid, Conference Chair or can send queries on etk@ntu.edu.pk

FESPA Asia back to Bangkok in February 2018 FESPA is ASEAN region’s premier wide format print and signage event brings together 100+ leading brands. The upcoming edition of FESPA Asia 2018 is expected to provide print and signage professionals a chance to see the latest product innovations and applications in the market and discover new opportunities for business growth. The exhibition will feature more than 100 exhibiting companies, with many leading international brands already confirmed to participate including M&R, Siser, d.gen, Multicam, JK Group, Caldera, Fimor, Sensient and Hexis, the official World Wrap Masters Partner. The 2017 session of FESPA Asia was held successfully in February attracting over 4,500

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regional and international visitors. Attendees travelled from 63 countries, with the largest delegations coming from Thailand, Singapore, India, China and Malaysia. FESPA Asia 2018 is supported by Thai Garment Manufacturers Association, Thai Advertising Business Development Association and the Thai Textile Institute (THTI) who are proactively promoting the exhibition to members. Further support comes from FESPA’s ASEAN member associations in India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Republic of Korea, Japan, China, Philippines and Australia etc. Visitors to FESPA Asia 2018 will also have access to a focused program of educational and inspirational content including a textile printing workshop, and other sessions. For more info visit www.fespa-asia.com.


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Textile exporters demand reduction in energy tariff In an official meeting on November 4, 2017, the exporters of various textile products have demanded the government to reduce the tariff of electricity and gas for their industry to reduce the cost of doing business. The meeting of Federal Textile Board was chaired by Federal Minister of Commerce and Textile Mr Muhammad Pervaiz Malik and the State Minister of Commerce and Textile Haji Akram Ansari. Other event attendees include the Textile Division secretary along with Ministry of National Food Security and Research secretary, senior officials of Textile Division, Commerce Division, Ministry of Industries and Production and Finance Division. The chairmen and senior representatives of various textile associations, including All Pakistan Textile Mills Association, Pakistan Readymade Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Pakistan Textile Exporters Association, All Pakistan Textile Processing Mills Association and others also attended the meeting.

The meeting discussed a multitude of issues being faced by the largest export industry of Pakistan and the facilitation given by the federal government. Representatives of the associations appreciated the federal government for providing policy and budgetary facilitations to textile industry of the country which resulted in an increase of textile exports as compared to last year. Some demands regarding the betterment of the industry situations were also placed at the meeting including the reduction of tariff, GIDC, custom refunds and sales tax matter etc. In his closing remarks the minister said that the government had taken bold steps to reduce the cost of doing business and in this connection; this meeting had been called to finalize the proposals of the textile sector. He added that he would take up these matters with the prime minister to provide a platform for the development of the textile sector.

15.65% increase in readymade garments exports in two months The exports of readymade garments from the country during first two months of current financial year increased by 15.65% as compared the exports of the corresponding period of last year. During the period from July-August, 2017, around 6,326 thousand dozens of readymade garments worth US$ 418.631 million exported as compared the exports of 5,217 thousand dozens valuing US$ 361.971 million of same period last year. Meanwhile, exports of knitwear grew by 7.53% as about 20,334 thousand dozen of knitwear valuing US$ 439.258 million exported during the period under review as compared the exports of 17,776 thousand dozen worth of US$ 408.495 million of same period last year said PBS. During the period under review, exports of bed-wear increased by

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8.09%. The exports of towel decrease of 0.67 %. Towels worth US$ 116.782 million exported in first two months of current financial year as compared the exports of US$ 117.574 million of same period last year, the data reveled. Exports of textile group increased by 5.81% in first two-months of current financial year and were recorded at US$ 2.179 billion as compared to US$ 2.059 billion of same period last year. The exports of raw cotton during first two-month was recorded at 5,225 metric tons worth US$ 8.697 million as compared the exports of US$ 10.197 million of same period last year. During first two-months, exports of other textile materials grew by 13.29 % as above mention products worth US$ 75.744 million exported as compared the exports of US$ 66.85 million of same period last year.



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Mass customisation of textile-based home goods is becoming a reality that is accessible to just about everyone. The key to effective mass customisation is the ability to deliver an increase in variety without a corresponding increase in costs and delivering against these consumer expectations requires digitally printed textiles. Ronald van den Broek, General Manager Sales EMEA We are focused on developing new inks for each application that will reduce costs, maintain or improve quality and make digital textile printing more environmentally friendly. This, we believe, will speed up the adoption of digital textile printing and open the market to a variety of new applications and opportunities. Ronald van den Broek, General Manager Sales EMEA For years, textile-based home goods have been mass produced. It surely is a huge business: in 2015, consumers in the Netherlands alone spent approximately 1.5 billion euros on home textiles. These goods have traditionally been selected from mass-produced designs placed into the market by manufacturers, and this model has been accepted by the public because there really wasn’t any alternative. But as with so many other areas of our lives, the digital revolution is changing that: consumers want

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personalised or individualised textiles, with short delivery times. They want to make their homes truly their own, expressing their personalities, passions and beliefs. Interior designers are increasingly aware of the both the opportunity to provide unique designs to clients and the technology that is making this economically feasible, even for individual homeowners. Textile printers are already adapting to these requirements


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Making your home truly your own The Promise of Digital Textile Printing November/December 2017


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and are changing their business models, with a growing focus on the production of small order volumes through to one-off pieces. Advances in the digital printing of textiles is the enabling factor in making this happen. Do you want your family room drapes to carry the logo of your child’s sports team? It can be done quickly, economically and with very high quality. Need to change that as your child moves to university? No problem, we can handle that, too. According to Ronald van den Broek, General Manager Sales EMEA at digital printer manufacturer Mimaki, mass customisation of textile-based home goods is becoming a reality that is accessible to just about everyone. The key to effective mass customisation is the ability to deliver an increase in variety without a corresponding increase in costs. It is a collaborative effort between consumers and manufacturers, delivering the best match between individual specific consumer needs and the manufacturer’s customisation capabilities. And in most cases, delivering against these consumer expectations requires digitally printed textiles. “We often think about home textiles coming to us from the Asian market,” van den Broek says, “more specifically, China. But in actual fact, although China is the most important producer of home textiles, in particular, rugs and bedding, the demand for these goods is so high in China itself that only 1% of its production is exported. From 2009 to 2013, in fact, the imports of home textiles into China have risen annually by 20%!” What is coming together, then, is the demand for more customised home textiles and the shift in supply chain dynamics for these materials. This is opening new market opportunities in the European and North American markets for personalised or customised home textiles produced at or near the point of need and with short cycle times. Van den Broek believes demand for mass customisation in home textiles is also being driven by changes in post-war families, with parents born between 1945 and 1970. These people are retiring or their children are moving out of the home. Their children are setting up new households and are buying new bedclothes, carpets, curtains and much more. They are likely to want more customised choices for these goods. And the parents may follow suit as they update their own homes. This includes the ability to coordinate textile

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wall and ceiling hangings, room dividers, furniture and decorative objects using customised textile designs. And that requires robust digital printing technologies as well as a shift in manufacturing model. Changing the Business Model But changing the business model comes with a price. Van den Broek explains, “Keeping up with the changes while earning money in this business is not a simple matter. Large print shops need to adjust to these new challenges. Sales models must be modified. Management information systems between shops, design studios, production, accounting, logistics and shipping departments must be adapted. The profit margins are traditionally low in home textiles. Any firms producing large volumes that end up selling warehouse stocks at a discount aren't going to make any profit. Digital textile printing makes it possible to produce and sell products precisely aligned with customer requirements, on demand or to a limited inventory.” Digital textile printing presents designers with significant challenges, as well as opportunities. In traditional processes, prints were designed for use across an extended period and for high print volumes. Conversely, digital textile printing offers a considerably higher level of flexibility. This makes it possible to respond in the short term to new fast fashion trends, as well as to individual consumer requests. This has a significant impact on textile designers, demanding much more creativity. Inks: The New Frontier Until now, a significant barrier has been ink – digitally printed textiles need to feature vibrant colours with a broad colour gamut, good washability, durability over time, and a nice feel to the fabric. There is also a requirement to print on all types of textiles with minimal impact to the environment. This is the Holy Grail for digital textile printing, and although the industry is not all the way there yet, progress is being made. Van den Broek states, “The available reactive inks for inkjet printing remain the leading technology for home textiles. However, there is a new generation of pigmented inks on the horizon for which a case can be made. Sublimation technology is also improving and is an alternative for the digital printing of home textiles. Digital printing presses are becoming faster and the print quality continues to rise. In addition, print shops and service providers are developing workflows that enable home textiles to be produced more cost-effectively. This wave of


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innovation, I believe, will open the flood gates to a broad range of new opportunities.� The table below reflects the most commonly requested fabric types and the inks best suited for each.

water usage and contamination. With specially-designed Mimaki inks, this process results in deep blacks, excellent durability and a broad colour gamut. Inks are available in CMYK, light black, light cyan, light magenta, as well as pink and yellow

Sublimation Dye Sublimation inks are designed to work best with polyester-based textiles and can be used in two ways: directly on the polyester material or by printing on a sublimation paper and using a heat press or calendar to transfer the inks. Unlike conventional dyeing, no washing is required, thus reducing both

fluorescents that are ideal for sportswear applications. These inks are increasingly popular for production of customised upholstery and other interior textiles. For the first time at the recent FESPA show, Mimaki showed its new high-speed direct-to-textile November/December 2017


28

Tiger-1800B printer using sublimation inks and sold the printer off the show floor to a Spanish textile company. Not only does this printer deliver high speeds with great quality, but its robust software RIP also makes colour substitute possible -- when the printed colour differs from that expected, the colour substitution function enables users to quickly and easily obtain a colour closer to the target. Reactive Dye inks These inks are suitable for printing on natural fibres such as cotton, silk and wool. This also requires a printer with a belt transport system that flattens the fabric, making it possible to more easily print on material that stretches. Mimaki reactive dye inks are designed to produce deep, bright colours in the complete gamut of shades which are required for the home and outdoor segments and meet automotive lightfastness standards. Acid inks Acid inks are very similar to reactive inks. Pre-treatment and after-treatment are both required. The process is the same, but these inks require a different pre-treatment liquid. Acid inks from Mimaki offer good wet-fastness and lightfastness, delivering the broad colour gamut and brilliant colours that the textile industry demands. Dispersion dye These inks are designed for printing with excellent lightfastness and outstanding build-up on polyester and micro-polyester. They are ideal for sportswear, curtains, home and outdoor textiles and the automotive industry. A heater or steamer fixes the dye, and is followed by a reduction cleaning process that creates the deep shade. Following a chemical bath, first hot air and then cold water are applied. Textile Pigment ink The advantage to this ink is that there is no need for steaming, washing and cleaning, reducing the cost and environmental impact. But the technology is not quite there yet to achieve the same results that can be achieved with other inks. We are working to develop a binder or primer that will improve the durability and colour gamut.

November/December 2017

Dual Ink Systems for Even More Flexibility And now, digital textile manufacturers can have even more flexibility with Mimaki direct-to-textile printers that can load both pigment and sublimation inks, enabling the use of a single printer to print directly on a wide range of textiles without the need to change out ink systems. Mimaki’s Tx300P-1800 and Tx300P-1800B direct-to-textile printers are unique in offering this capability. Van den Broek adds, “It means that producers can switch fabric types quickly and easily, selecting the appropriate ink system for each fabric. And these inks do not require usage of water or steaming in the post-treatment process, making them environmentally sustainable as well.” These and other innovations in digital textile printing are also making it easier for interior and fashion designers to bring work in-house that might otherwise have been outsourced, giving them greater control over the process and speeding time to market. Soft Signage and Flags Digital printing of textiles is also driving growth in the soft signage and flag printing industry. Here, too, customisation is a growing requirement. And there’s a shift towards printing in a more environmentally conscious way, which results in many producers moving to use more water-based inks and textile signage. Textile signage has the advantage of less weight and the ability to fold for shipping, reducing those costs, which also contributes to its smaller environmental footprint. Looking Ahead Mimaki has been a key player in the digital textile printing industry and is dedicated to applying its extensive knowledge and expertise to providing the best solutions for digital printing on textiles. Van den Broek concludes, “We are focused on developing new inks for each application that will reduce costs, maintain or improve quality and make digital textile printing more environmentally friendly. This, we believe, will speed up the adoption of digital textile printing and open the market to a variety of new applications and opportunities.” More details about Mimaki products, including its full range of printers and inks, can be found at www.mimakieurope.com



Happenings

30

DPS World 2017, Lahore Pakistan

November/December 2017

DPS World 2017 was the third successful event held in Expo Center Lahore from October 20-22, 2017. A large number of visitors from across the country visited the event proving the exhibition to be the most influential event in digital printing and signage industry of Pakistan. Inaugurated by Mr Tahir Javed Malik the President of Lahore Chamber of Commerce, the event was attended by a large number of dignitaries who showed great interest in the displayed technology and machinery.


Happenings

31

November/December 2017


Happenings

32

USTER Summit, Lahore Pakistan With an aim to help industry take advantage of latest technologies of USTER and deliver the solutions for high-quality yarn with the ultimate cost-effectiveness, the USTER Summit was organized on November 23, 2017, at the Avari Hotel in Lahore Pakistan. The event was a comprehensive platform for the textile professionals to share words with USTER professionals’ team. Presentations on the occasion were given by Mr Oswald Baldischwieler, Mr Vasileios Archontopoulos, and vote of thanks by Mr Rashid Jalal that was followed by an official dinner.

November/December 2017


Happenings

33

November/December 2017


Happenings

34

I.C.T.T, NTU Faisalabad The 1st International Conference on Technical Textile was held on November 9-10, 2017 at the National Textile University, Faisalabad, Pakistan. The event proved to be an influential platform for the enhancing the knowledge and expertise textile industry of Pakistan. A number of national and international speakers were present on the occasion who shared words with the event attendees about the relevant matters. The conference believed to be an international forum for professionals from textile industry, academia, and the governing bodies and will provide an opportunity to them to share their concerns and achievements.

November/December 2017


Happenings

35

November/December 2017


Happenings

36

Jingwei CHTC Symposium, Lahore

November/December 2017

JINGWEI organized a seminar on digital spinning solutions on November 10, 2017 in Lahore where the Chief Guest was Mr Li Peng – Managing director of Pak China Investment Company Limited. Other known personals at the event were Mr Wu Xiuhua-VP CTMTC; Mr Wu XudongCEO JINGWEI; Mr Rana Mahboob Hasan.


The University of Management and Technology organized the 2nd International Business Conference and Exhibition (IBCE) 2017 from October 28-30 2017, at Expo Center, Lahore. The event offered businessmen, multinational corporation, exhibitors, manufacturers, foreign investors, CEOs, academicians and entrepreneurs from all across the globe to join the transact business and enlighten and inspire the youth in their quest for knowledge and innovation.

November/December 2017

Happenings

International Business Conference and Exhibition 2017

37


Happenings

38

BCI 2017 Pakistan regional members meeting

November/December 2017

Better Cotton Initiative planned a meeting with regional members of Pakistan that was held on October 25, 2017 followed by a field trip on October 26. The meeting was held at the Pearl Continental Hotel Lahore where a large number of members from the cotton supply chain, including ginners, cotton traders, spinners, fabric/garment mills, and retailers/brands.



Corporate Highlights

40

Quality and innovation as a driving force for 125 years After starting in a small workshop in 1892, Stäubli has developed into a leading industrial partner for high-quality mechatronic solutions and technologies. With three dedicated activities – Connectors, Robotics and Textile – Stäubli is valued by industrial customers worldwide for its high-quality products and cutting-edge technologies. Two family threads came together at the end of the 19th century – the heyday of the Swiss textile industry – and were woven into a new corporate fabric: Rudolph Schelling and Hermann Stäubli, displaying both commercial acumen and technical skill, founded the company “Schelling & Stäubli” in the Swiss village of Horgen in 1892. At that time, this village on the shore of Lake Zurich – and on the silk road as well – was the site of many mills operating a total of some 1,000 weaving machines. Hermann Stäubli had acquired his initial know-how by repairing these machines. After a short time, he set out to produce superior machinery. His credo from the start was the highest quality and a pronounced customer

November/December 2017

focus. He sought no less than to make the world’s best dobbies – with which weaving mills could achieve optimal results. Even in those early days, Stäubli set very high targets for efficient production – specifically, to weave more fabrics at lower cost, higher quality, and with a greater variety of patterns. Already in 1893, Schelling & Stäubli introduced their first dobby, designed and constructed in house. In 1900 they introduced the world’s first paper-card dobby, equipped with a warp-leasing system that is still in wide use today. Following the death of Rudolph Schelling in 1909, the company was renamed Stäubli.


Historic brochure cover (1st price list for Stäubli cam motions and dobbies)


42

SAFIR S60 automatic drawing-in machine

Geographical spread and portfolio expansion The Stäubli Group has grown exuberantly since 1892, in both technical and geographic terms. Already in 1909 Stäubli built its first factory in France, followed by additional production sites in other European countries as well as in the Americas and China. The Group’s Textile activities have grown in line with its corporate targets, and Stäubli has become a leading supplier to the global weaving industry. In 1969 Stäubli acquired the German company Trumpelt, which specialised in heavy dobbies. Expertise in electronic Jacquard machines As a shedding solution specialist in frame weaving, the company further decided to expand its range to include Jacquard weaving. This led to the acquisition of Verdol in Lyon, a manufacturer of mechanical Jacquard machines, and the founding of Stäubli Tagliabue S.p.A. in September 1985. The Italian production site specialises in the design and construction of Jacquard machines, and at that time double-lift open shed as well as oblique-shed Jacquard machines with endless paper (Verdol system) were being built. Already in 1986 Stäubli launched its first electronic Jacquard machine, an important milestone in Jacquard weaving. Easy November/December 2017

handling, precision, speed, and increased design options are just a few of the advantages that have led to the continuing success of these machines. Stäubli solutions cover the complete weaving process The companies Zellweger (weaving preparation solutions) and Schönherr (carpet weaving systems) were purchased in 1994 and 1998. Since then, Stäubli’s product range has been significantly further developed. In terms of weaving preparation, Stäubli offers a comprehensive range that allows any mill to improve the efficiency of its weaving preparation workflow. The range includes machinery and solutions for automatic drawing in, warp tying, reading in 1:1 leases, and making quick style changes. The SAFIR automatic drawing-in installations exemplify what Stäubli stands for in the textile industry: innovation, quality, and reliability. Featuring state-of-the-art technologies such as double-end detection and yarn-repeat monitoring & management, they enable perfect warp preparation. The company’s most recent expansion step was the acquisition of DEIMO, a long-time industry partner providing drive and control systems for a wide range


43

LX electronic Jacquard machine

of applications. Stäubli’s expansion strategy has been constantly augmented by intensive R&D activities, and today the result can be seen in a comprehensive range of high-performance products integrating state-of-the-art technologies. The machinery is renowned for exceptional reliability, unsurpassed production speeds, and very long service life. Whether automatic drawing-in machines, the latest generation of cam motions and dobbies (S3000 and S3200 Series), the electronic Jacquard machines, carpet and technical textile weaving systems, or automation solutions for hosiery knitting – all attest to continuity and a passion for innovation, which are embedded in the DNA of the company. Excellence means constant improvement and development in all areas

Latest dobby S3260

“The spirit of innovation has defined our company from the beginning – it’s rooted deeply in the nature of Stäubli”, says Rolf Strebel, Stäubli CEO. “It’s the reason we constantly develop new solutions which add value for our customers. Other decisive factors for our long-term success are the spirit of cohesion amongst our staff around the globe, our inquisitiveness, and our philosophy of continuous improvement. Our aspiration is to constantly improve – on a human, professional, and technical level – and to remain just as successful during the next 125 years.” Stäubli is represented in Pakistan by SIMAG Enterprises (PVT) Ltd 505-506 Al-Ameera Centre Shahrah-e-Iraq, P.O. Box 8733 Saddar PK-Karachi-74400 / Pakistan Téléphone: +92 21 3567 0757 / +92 21 3568 4470 Fax: +92 21 3520 0098

125 years of passion for innovation Technological advancements and visionary ideas have formed a company that is poised to operate as successfully in the new millennium as it did at the end of the 19th century. Today Stäubli is a mechatronics solutions provider with three dedicated activities: Connectors (fluid and electrical), Robotics (4- and 6-axis industrial robots), and Textile. With a global workforce of over 4,500, the company generates an annual turnover of 1.1 billion Swiss francs. Founded in 1892, today Stäubli is an international group headquartered in Pfäffikon, Switzerland.

November/December 2017


44

U.S. Cotton quality task force paves path to zero contamination Producing and delivering quality fiber is the U.S. cotton industry’s highest priority. Cotton USA aim to deliver exactly what you order every single time. High quality cotton fiber does not happen by chance. Both quality and yield are greatly influenced by a producer’s seed selection, as well as cotton production, harvesting, and ginning practices. This commitment to quality is why Cotton USA created a special “Quality Task Force” many years ago. The Mission of the Task Force The Quality Task Force meets regularly to discuss a wide range of topics, including improvements in fiber quality measurement, fiber quality preservation, loan premiums and discounts and more. It is comprised of industry leaders from every segment—from cotton producers and ginners to fiber merchants and marketing cooperative officials and textile manufacturers. The mission of the task force’s is simple: contamination-free U.S cotton in order to increase the efficient use and performance in the textile mill. However, simple does not mean easy. It means diligent enhancement of best-in-class seed, production, harvesting and ginning. And, the mission of Cotton USA is driven by a strong belief that consistent, high quality is what sets U.S. cotton apart from other cotton growths. The U.S. Cotton Difference Much time and resources are put toward to maximizing fiber quality, and Cotton USA pride there selves in their ongoing efforts to improve the fiber’s quality characteristics of strength, length and uniformity. It starts with the producer’s seed selection and extends through the growing season, as well as during harvesting and ginning. The United States is the world’s largest breeding ground for new cottonseed innovation. Cotton USA collaborates with scientists from universities, private enterprise and the U.S. cotton industry on the development of and

November/December 2017

testing of new seed varieties. During the harvest, U.S. cotton producers focus on removing the open white bolls from the plant at their peak of maturity, quickly getting the seed cotton from the field to a gin and then the resulting ginned lint into a well-protected bale. This ensures preservation of the fiber’s quality for textile manufacturing customers. And the gin’s electronic control systems monitor moisture, color, air and material flow to improve productivity and fiber quality. Quality In, Quality Out The U.S. cotton industry works to grow the highest quality, cleanest fiber in the world in the most sustainable manner. And Cotton USA’s assessment of the 2016 U.S. cotton crop showed that the task force is having an impact in five keys ways: 1- 90 percent of U.S. crop had color of 41 or better and 71 percent had a color of 31 or better. 2- U.S. cotton had 18 percent fewer non-repairable defects than other cottons. Because U.S. cotton is cleaner, spinning efficiency has improved by three percent, which saves money on cleaning costs. 3- The average staple for upland cotton in the United States was 36.3 -- a new U.S. record. 4- Average length uniformity for the 2016 crop was 81.3 while 76.3 percent of the 2016 crop had a uniformity index of 80.3 or higher. 5- There was a significant increase in cotton considered high quality across all U.S. growing regions. That is 31 color with a 3 leaf, 35 with a 3.5-4.9 mic with no extraneous matter. The bottom line is that the U.S. cotton industry is proud of the progress that Cotton USA has made and that Cotton USA is setting the bar for higher standards. You have Cotton USA pledge to continuously produce the longest, strongest, most uniform and sustainable fiber every day!



46

Polar Evolution winding machine

Savio at Shanghaitex with Polar Evolution winding machine Since 1911, Savio is specialized in the yarn-finishing segment, being the leading supplier of winding, twisting and rotor spinning machines, with manufacturing plants spanning over Italy, China, India and Czech Republic. As a manufacturer of textile machinery, Savio offers winding systems that are ideal for many different needs, supporting customers in the textile challenge of developing new applications to meet their requests. Savio will exhibit in Shanghai the Polar Evolution winding machine: a high performance, energy saving and less labor-intensive product for the Chinese customers. Polar winding machines have been recently developed to the Evolution series, gathering all the innovative solutions in terms of technology, efficiency, quality output and maintenance. A further step for Polar family to catch the world of I.T. connectivity and the new fibers applications. The machine on display will be a freestanding fully automated one, provided with new features to process bobbins produced by ring frames not November/December 2017

equipped with automatic doffing device. "Premium" winder is a solution for processing yarn bobbins whose formation is not originally "favorable" to reach efficiency, for example bobbins with tangles, entanglements and misplaced yarns tail. The newly designed hopper “Pace Sorter Feeder” will optimize the bobbing feeding for a fast and smooth bobbin flow. In addition, special solutions have been engineered for automatic devices (bobbin preparation, transport, etc.) present in the fully automatic winder models to control and process springy elastic yarns. A special “Lycra kit” is available for yarn end finder station of fully automatic winding machines, in order to grant the highest efficiency for the bobbin preparation in presence of single or dual core yarns. New Evo drums for improving package-unwinding performance In downstream processing, the unwinding behavior of the package and the take-up speed facilitate process to be more efficient and geared to benefit. Savio has now a full range of grooved drums to cover all yarn types, counts and downstream processes. The EVO drums offer new capabilities to


Savio Smart Bracelet - Smart Industry Solutions

optimize both the unwinding speed of the packages and the package yarn content, through variable number of turns with different winding angles. The package shape is optimized in order to obtain advantages for a better unwinding ratio in the downstream process, for homogeneous package density and for lower rewinding breaks. Upgraded Splicing Solutions The Polar Evolution winding unit is equipped with splicing and tension control devices for ensuring perfect joints and perfect package shape. Air and MoistairŽ splicers boasts a Duo Air Feeding system, for yarn tail preparation and splicing. This splitting allows the individual setting of the most appropriate value of air pressure, and makes these splicers able to easily process any different fibers and blends combination. Savio Winder 4.0 – Smart Industry Solutions for Textile Mills Once composed solely by mechanical and electrical parts, now winding machines have become complex systems that combine hardware, sensors, data storage, microprocessors, software and connectivity. These smart machineries can increase the efficiency of the spinning mill and perform predictive maintenance avoiding breakdowns and downtimes. Savio winding machines can be equipped upon request of Smart Industry Solutions for connectivity, data management, remote machine set up and operator real-time interactivity. Savio Winder 4.0 represents an important step towards a wide digitalization process, being a solution for intelligent networking of machines in the spinning/winding room. This data management system is a very modern and important management tool, relieving mill management staff of time-consuming routine work. The mill manager can have the winding room live monitoring directly from his/her desk. Thanks to data analytics, a wealth of data are available, allowing to manage the different production phases in the best possible way and to monitor all significant parameters anytime and anywhere, making use of mobile devices. All these features enable Savio customers to control overall equipment effectiveness, increase workforce efficiency, and maximize quality and working time.


48

SERVOtrail

A Must for Efficient Spinning Mills

Fig 1. SERVOtrail roving bobbin transport system – for efficient and quality-conscious spinning mills.

The transport system for roving bobbins offers all customers a tailor-made solution. It is maintenance-free and ensures high yarn quality and consistently good machine efficiency. Personnel savings of up to 30 % are possible. The modular roving bobbin transport system SERVOtrail offers the best possible material flow between the roving frame and ring respectively compact spinning machines (Fig.1). It fulfills the most diverse customer requirements, thanks to various levels of automation. The functional system design and the modular combination of the SERVOtrail installation enable several levels and November/December 2017

buildings to be linked. Optimized personnel requirement Whether manual or fully-automatic variants – SERVOtrail simplifies roving bobbin handling, reduces personnel requirements and consequently the production costs. The well thought-out bobbin transport shortens servicing paths for the operator. The ring spinning machines integrated into the circuit are working at optimal capacity. Above all, with fully automatic solutions and short cop runtimes of the ring spinning machine, the savings are substantial. A customer with a 16320 spindle mill and coarse yarn can save up to 30 % ring


49

spinning personnel

advantage that no dust or dirt can adhere and cleaning is not necessary. The traveling cleaner on the ring spinning machine supports the cleanliness of tracks and trains. The downtimes required for cleaning work are minimized and maintenance costs decrease.

Fig 2. With large mills and coarse yarn counts, personnel savings of up to 30 % in the ring spinning sector are possible.

Guaranteed yarn quality The SERVOtrail system transports the bobbins suspended. The outer, sensitive layer of the roving bobbins therefore remains unaffected (Fig.3).

Fig 4. The tilted sliding surfaces of the aluminium profile prevent soiling and are thus maintenance-free.

Proven, stable components and the simple design make SERVOtrail a reliable and long-lasting system.

Fig 3. Perfect, contact-free bobbin transport ensures consistent quality.

When processing different assortments, a clear distinction is made and the appropriate spinning machine correctly allocated. Controlled intermediate storage by the transport system ensures that the bobbins remain clean and dust-free. Chaotic spaces congested with bobbin trolleys and dust-covered bobbins are thus a thing of the past. Full roving bobbins are always available and the roving is supplied to the ring spinning machine in reliable quality and perfect condition. Well considered, maintenance-free concept Soiling, one of the greatest challenges in the spinning mill, is resolved with the SERVOtrail system by open, maintenance-free track profiles. These precisely manufactured aluminium profiles have tilted sliding surfaces (Fig. 4). That has the

The right solution for every customer Every spinning mill has its own individual requirements. Rieter offers its customers a modular transport system, that permits customized solutions due to its high level of flexibility. The following systems are available, with various degrees of automation for flexible and continuous requirements. Productivity increases The SERVOtrail bobbin transport system combines many advantages: planning security, the optimal use of resources, a strict process sequence and guaranteed yarn quality. The permanent availability of full roving bobbins on the ring spinning machine makes a decisive contribution to increasing machine efficiency and productivity.

Anne Eckerle Project Engineer Machines & Systems anne.eckerle@rieter.com

November/December 2017


50

Santex Rimar group corporate fast track special award

Corporate Fast Track Award Start - Winners

One of the final events of PREMIO GAETANO MARZOTTO took place in SANTEX RIMAR GROUP, SMIT workshops (Italy). The award is inspired by Gaetano Marzotto, a twentieth-century entrepreneur. During the event five start-ups have been selected and awarded by Santex Rimar Group, Illycaffè, Santa Margherita wine producer Group, Selle Royal Group and ZCube - Zambon Research. SANTEX RIMAR GROUP has chosen INDIGO AI, the first AI platform that uses chatbots and machine learning to automate customized experiences between companies and customers. Stefano Gallucci, CEO of SANTEX RIMAR GROUP, says: "SANTEX RIMAR GROUP is developing 4.0 projects focused on the relationship with more than 30.000 customers located all over the world. Our new technologies will help to save energy,

Corporate Fast Track Award Start - Winners

November/December 2017

understanding the processes and avoiding time waste and lack of quality. We offer services that enable our customers to achieve and maintain quality production standards and implement predictive maintenance. With this Startup we can develop solutions to solve customers’ problems faster and better. “We want machines that can assure that there is no waste, no second quality, that can prevent errors and suggest how to repair malfunctions. Machines that allow low downtime and help schedule maintenance. These machines will help solve the challenges of such a competitive textile industry” says Stefano Gallucci, CEO of the Group. The final event of the seventh edition of the PREMIO GAETANO MARZOTTO is scheduled be held on November 23rd in Rome.


USTER QUANTUM 3 ®

Anniversary Edition Tuning in to the vibe: fashion with quality

Fashion moves fast, so spinners must be up to speed with the right yarns. Exciting colors and styles, stretchy fabrics…whatever the customer wants. USTER ® QUANTUM 3 Anniversary Edition lets spinners tune in to the fashion vibe with confidence. Its special new features ensure that ‘on-trend’ also means ‘on-quality’.

Core yarns are important in designer denims with stretch and fancy effects. The Core Yarn Clearing feature prevents ugly – and costly – results when core yarn sections are either missing or off-center. Creative fashions also rely on color consistency – but errors in the spinning mill can mix up different colored bobbins, ruining the yarn. The USTER ® QUANTUM 3 Color and Shade Variation feature removes the risk, detecting even the smallest deviations. Spinning mills around the world are already reaching new heights with USTER ® QUANTUM 3 and its intelligent yarn clearing. Now, they can step boldly into the fashion sector, with a simple software upgrade.

www.uster.com/quantum


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Regina Brückner New Chairperson of VDMA Textile Machinery Association

Chairperson and Vice Chairpersons of the Textile Machinery Association: Regina Brückner, Fritz P. Mayer, Verena Thies (L-R)

Ms. Regina Brückner, Managing Associate of Brückner Trockentechnik, is the new chairperson of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. The businesswoman from Leonberg was elected at the members’ meeting of the Association in Berlin. The new executive board is completed with Ms. Verena Thies, Thies Textilmaschinen, and Mr. Fritz P. Mayer, Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik, who were elected as vice chairpersons. After her election, Regina Brückner stated: „ I am pleased to have Ms. Thies and Mr. Mayer by my side, the two chairpersons who complement each other very well. Mr. Mayer is an entrepreneurial personality with decades of experience which he is meanwhile bringing in as the president of CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers. Ms. Thies assumed responsibility in the family company early on and has been working for the traditional company Thies in international textile machinery business since 2009.”

The new executive board for the legislative period until 2021 is composed of: Regina Brückner (Chairperson), Brückner Trockentechnik Verena Thies (Vice Chairperson), Thies Fritz P. Mayer (Vice Chairman), Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik Johann Phillip Dilo, Oskar Dilo Maschinenfabrik Peter D. Dornier, Lindauer Dornier Arno Gärtner, Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik Roland Hampel, A. Monforts Textilmaschinen Dr. Janpeter Horn, Herzog Markus Kleindorp, Memminger-Iro Martin Küppers, Saurer Schlafhorst Georg Stausberg, Oerlikon Textile Andreas Lukas, Andritz Küsters Benjamin Mayer, Mayer & Cie. Eric Schöller, Groz-Beckert Heinrich Trützschler, Trützschler

November/December 2017


The World’s First Digital Cationic Dye Ink T&T Industries Corporation (Taiwan) T&T Industries Corporation (Taiwan) digitalize the acrylic / CDP fabric.

Digital Printing Machines & Heat Transfer Machines

Digital Printing Inks

Sole Agent: Dacca Trade Agency 24 SP Chamber, B – 9 / B – 1, S.I.T.E., Karachi | Ph: 021- 32551386- 7 – 8 | Email: pakpolarbear@gmail.com


Philosophy of innovation and sustainability at Shanghaitex Saurer Group will proudly present its full range of new technologies in fiber processing from raw material to a multitude of yarns during the upcoming Shanghaitex 2017. The product range further includes different finishing processes. Shanghaitex will take place from the 27th until 30th of November in the premises of the Shanghai New International Expo Center / Pudong. For Saurer it will be yet another opportunity to present the group as the partner of choice along the textile value chain with its full product range. Saurer Group’s E3 (triple added value) – philosophy of innovation and sustainability was developed with a clear customer focus. Highest productivity, maximum raw material utilisation and excellent yarn characteristics are key success factors for today’s textile producers. All these properties are reflected in our products. Saurer is present with its machinery brands; Schlafhorst, Zinser, Allma, Volkmann, Saurer Embroidery and Components brands; Accotex, Daytex, Fibrevision, Temco, Texparts in Hall E1, booth F01. Some of the main products will be - Ring spinning machines from Zinser: a new level of efficiency in the commodity segment - Rotor Spinning at Schlafhorst: Sustainable and future-oriented - Winding machines from Schlafhorst: Benchmark for winding efficiency - Allma Volkmann – Setting new benchmarks with Saurer E3 technology - Saurer Embroidery – The shuttle embroidery benchmark


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REVOFIX WET

Fixing agent for revolutionary rubbing fastness properties

Dark textiles on light coloured fabrics? Have your customers been sweating in the past? Then REVOFIX WET brings a revolutionary effect: REVOFIX WET distinctly improves the

November/December 2017

dry rubbing fastness and especially the wet rubbing fastness on CEL and synthetic fibres. REVOFIX WET is just what the world is waiting for since long.


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Limits & Problems of Past Years Skiing anorak

Rubbing Dry Fastness Rubbing Wet Fastness

*Staining

Swimwear

Inlet

Blouse

3

3

4

4

3

4

3-4

3

Coat

Kintwear

3,5

3

4

4

4

Trousers

4

3

Pyjamas

3

4

4,6

4

4

3-4

3-4

3-4

3-4

This is the table of a document: The fastness demands of the clothes manufacturers had to be marked with footnotes.

The The right right path path to to innovation innovation Aside from the Aside from the dye dye class class and and colour colour depth, depth, the the rubbing fastness also depends on the rubbing fastness also depends on the following following factors: factors: -- Substrate Substrate (polyester, (polyester, cotton,....) cotton,....) -- Material structure Material structure (smooth (smooth fabric, fabric, knitwear,....) knitwear,....) -- Dyeing process Dyeing process -- Post-treatment Post-treatment -- Finishing Finishing -- Moisture Moisture when when rubbing rubbing Examinations Examinations have have shown shown that that poor poor rubbing rubbing fastnesses are not only caused fastnesses are not only caused by by abraded abraded dye, dye, but but also by abraded fibre material, especially from also by abraded fibre material, especially from natural natural fibres. fibres. The The following following applies applies for for some some dyeings/prints: dyeings/prints: A A poor poor wet rubbing fastness strongly tends to a wash-out wet rubbing fastness strongly tends to a wash-out effect, effect, especially especially with with multiple multiple washings. washings. REVOFIX REVOFIX WET WET is is aa revolutionary revolutionary masterpiece masterpiece for; for; -- All major dye classes: reactive, All major dye classes: reactive, sulphur, sulphur, vat, vat, pigment pigment dyes dyes -- On On various various fibre fibre types types -- No impact on No impact on the the other other fastnesses fastnesses and and on on the the handle handle -- Hardly Hardly any any impact impact on on the the shade shade -- Improves the wet rubbing Improves the wet rubbing fastness fastness by by up up to 2 grades to 2 grades

Blazer

Underwear

3,5

4

4

4

All All of of the the amazing amazing technologies technologies are are brought brought together together with an excellent environmental compatibility. with an excellent environmental compatibility. REVOFIX REVOFIX WET WET reduces reduces the the colour colour abrasion abrasion from from dyed cellulose fibres, synthetics and dyed cellulose fibres, synthetics and their their blends. blends. The The innovative innovative fixing fixing agent agent of of the the CHT CHT Group Group increases the wet rubbing fastness increases the wet rubbing fastness of of dyeing dyeing nearly nearly by by up up to to two two grades. grades. ItIt not not only only increases increases the the fabric fabric quality, quality, but but also also the the coolness coolness of of your your customers. customers.

Skirt

3

4

3-4

4

4

4,6

4

3-4

3-4

3-4

Foot note! 3 = for full colours grade 3 4 = for full colours grade 2-3 ! 6 = for denim grade 2

Limits & Problems of Past Years Limits and Problems of Past Years

CO/PES disperse/vat woven wear colour black: CO/PES disperse/vat woven wear colour black: Dry

Wet

Dry

Wet

Dry

Dry

4-5

4-5

Wet

2-3

Wet 2-3

CO/EL knitwear colour black

CO/EL knitwear colour black Dry

Wet

Dry

Dry

Wet

Wet

Dry 5

Wet 2-3

5

2-3

Limits and Problems of Past Years

Limits & Problems of Past Years CO/PES woven wear Dry

Vat/disperse

Wet

Withoutwoven wear CO/PES aftertreatment 1.5 grades !

Vat/disperse

Dry

Dry

Wet

4-5

2-3

Wet

Dry

5.0% REVOFIX WET 30 min at 40o C

4-5

Without 50g/l REVOFIX WET Padding aftertreatment

4-5

Wet 4

4

4-5 2-3

1.5 grades !

CO/EL knitwear

Dry

Reactive

5.0% REVOFIX Without WET aftertreatment 30 min at 40 o C

Wet

Dry

5

Wet

4-5

2-3

4

1 grade !

5.0% REVOFIX WET 30 min at 40o C

50g/l REVOFIX WET 50g/l REVOFIX WET Padding Padding

5

3-4

4-5 5

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4 3-4


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REVOFIX WET forms a film around the fibre preventing thus the abrasion of fibre/dye.

- Finishing - Moisture when rubbing

The fastness to light, washing and contact of the treated textiles are not impaired and the shade intensification is tolerable. The handle of the fabric is hardly impaired by the application of REVOFIX WET. REVOFIX WET forms a film around the fibre preventing the color abrasion and at the same time reduces the fibre abrasion. This results in a perfect interplay of elasticity, adhesion and formation of a gliding film.

The examinations have shown that poor rubbing fastnesses are not only caused by abraded dye, but also by abraded fibre material, especially from natural fibres. The following applies for some dyeings/prints: A poor wet rubbing fastness strongly tends to a wash-out effect, especially with multiple washings.

REVOFIX WET can be applied for the after-treatment of dyeings and prints and is universally applicable - Fixing agent for dyeing cellulose fibres, synthetic fibres and their blends - Wet rubbing fastness increases by up to 2 grades - For reactive, vat, sulphur, dispersion dyes and pigments - Applicable by exhaust and continuous procedures The environmental compatibility of REVOFIX WET is self-speaking. The product fulfils the demands of Oeko-Tex® and ZDHC MRSL and is also bluesign® approved. Performance of REVOFIX WET: While talking about the performance of the REVOFIX WET; With REVOFIX Wet, wet friction produces a gliding film: after applying the product, the textile is covered by a surface film which adheres to the textile due to its specific product properties. The dry film is elastic and therefore gives the textile a mechanical protection. Wet friction produces a gliding film that reduces the friction between the textile and the friction body. While on the other hand Dye and fibre abrasion are greatly reduced by these specially designed product properties, dry and especially wet, thus improving the rubbing fastnesses. According to the manufacturers the REVOFIX WET is the right path to innovation, side from the dye class and colour depth, the rubbing fastness also depends on the following factors: - Substrate (polyester, cotton,....) - Material structure (smooth fabric, knitwear,....) - Dyeing process - Post-treatment

November/December 2017

Recommendations for use The product is applied with the exhaust process from a fresh bath after dyeing. Work at a liquor ratio of 1:10 with 3.0 - 5.0 % REVOFIX WET. The optimal pH value is between 5.0 and 5.5. The process is carried out for 20 minutes at 40 °C. In the padding process we recommend a liquor pick-up of 60 - 100 % at an application amount of 30 - 60 g/l REVOFIX WET and a pH value of 5.0 - 5.5. For utmost dyeing processes we recommend the addition of the following products: 1- REWIN ACP increases the washing and wet fastness properties on dyeings with reactive and direct dyes on natural and regenerated cellulose fibres. REWIN ACP meets the highest fastness demands presently made on a cationic after-treatment agent. 2- BEIZYM SPELL to avoid fibre abrasion. Cellulase mixture for bio-finish on CO and CV with magical spectrum and with lint dispersing and hydrophilic effect. 3- COTOBLANC PCS removes non-fixed reactive dyes from cellulose substrates. The product has the feature to hold back the hydrolysate in the bath and to prevent its reabsorption. A special property of COTOBLANC PCS is its efficiency also in the presence of electrolytes such as residual salt and alkali. 4- ARRISTAN 71 is a high-grade softener for an excellent handle. The following properties stand out for ARRISTAN 71: - very soft, flowing handle with distinct surface slip - outstanding resistance to yellowing and therefore particularly suited for ultra-white articles - improves the resilience of knitwear - improves the sewability and thus further processing of textiles


SWISS-MADE IS PLUS-MADE.

The Swiss textile machinery industry opens up crucial competitive advantages for its customers with creative, economic and sustainable overall solutions – the FACTOR : Quality + Lasting Value Strength + Partnership Creativity + Success High Tech + Reliability Performance + Sustainability

www.factor-plus.ch


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A big success for the first European Machinery Roadshow in COLOMBIA The first European roadshow of 14 textile machinery manufacturers took place on October 18 in Bogota and the following day in Medellin. With more than 100 Colombian textile producers attending, it exceeded the expectations of the organizers, the Belgian (SYMATEX), French (UCMTF), Spanish (AMTEX) and Swedish (TMAS) textile machinery associations. The event format included a 15 minutes presentation by each machinery manufacturer. In parallel, a mini fair was held where they showed animated videos of their machinery running at client’s sites and showcased textile samples produced on their equipment. They were available to develop business cases and personalized technological solutions. The four associations are very satisfied with this result and will continue to explore the format and collaborate among the European Textile Machinery Associations to showcase the latest technology to different markets. The following machinery manufacturers presented their knowhow and latest technologies: BONAS (Belgium): Bonas, the jacquard brand within VANDEWIELE, produces state-of-the-art electronic jacquards for all kinds of fabric applications: terry toweling, furnishing fabrics, curtain fabrics, apparel. CANMARTEX (Spain): Electronic Jacquard circular. Single and double jersey. Since its constitution in 2002, Canmartex Catgrup has always sought an exclusive, differentiating space in the textile machinery industry. DOLLFUS & MULLER (France): Dollfus & Muller founded in 1811 develops, manufactures and sells endless belts and felts for textile finishing machineries, net conveyors for various dryers among them printing dryers and thermobonding oven. ESCARRE (Spain): The most comprehensive solution to improve efficiency and productivity in the textile industry. Specialists in monitoring and control of dyeing and finishing since 1990. GOMPLAST (Spain): Gomplast S.A. (Barcelona 1958) engages exclusively in the coating of rollers with

November/December 2017

rubber, polyurethane and fluropolymers, supplying both original equipment manufacturers and the end consumers of the main industrial countries. ICOMATEX (Spain): Icomatex is a family owned company located in Terrassa, just outside Barcelona, Spain. Founded in 1975, the company started out as a manufacturer of mainly dyeing and drying machinery. INDUSTRIAL SAGARRA (Spain): Industrial Sagarra is a high-specialized company in manufacturing and distributing paper cores. Founded in 1965 has grown throughout the years reaching 70 employees and an annual income of 8M Euros. IRO (Sweden): Iro AB was founded in 1958 and has since then been active in yarn feeding business. IRO strengthened its leadership position by buying Roj Electrotex in 1992. LAROCHE (France): As a pioneer in fiber processing machines, Laroche has been developing new solutions for almost 100 years. With integrated manufacturing, can supply lines for a wide range of industries. N. SCHLUMBERGER (France): Manufacturer of textile machinery and complete fibre-to-yarn lines. Founded in 1810, N. Schlumberger is a member company of the NSC Group. PETIT SPARE PARTS (France): Petit Spare Parts, the specialist partner for textile industries. Petit Spare Parts today is the specialized provider for textile industries. PICANOL (Belgium): The Picanol Group is an international, customer-oriented group that specializes in the development, production and sale of weaving machines, engineered casting solutions and custom-made controllers. TACOME (Spain): Tacome S.A. present in the market for more than 40 years, is dedicated to the manufacturing of textile printing and finishing machinery. VAN DE WIELE (Belgium): Vandewiele develops, builds, assembles and installs carpet and velvet weaving machines, weaving machines for technical fabrics, extrusion lines, heatsetting, jacquard machines and finishing lines.


Loepfe Brothers Ltd. Next generation textile quality control Systems – Built to be on Top From Switzerland, Loepfe Brothers Ltd. with its optical yarn clearers has revolutionized quality control in the textile industry. Today, Loepfe is the world-wide leading manufacturer and solution partner for electronic online quality assurance systems. Machine manufacturers as well as spinning mills and weaving mills around the globe use Loepfe technology from Switzerland. They know what to expect: Innovation at top level, quality made in Switzerland. Spinning Solutions Loepfe guarantees 100% quality monitoring for winding and open-end spinning mills. The quality of Loepfe YarnMaster yarn clearers is unique. They The universally usable sensors detect smallest faults and achieve reliable results under all production conditions. One sensing head is

Laboratory Solutions Loepfe’s laboratory test instruments follow a new ground-breaking philosophy.

various textile test procedures in one laboratory system – with regard to time, resources and result analysis. Loepfe thereby all-in-one-principle of Loepfe LabMaster automates the complete test procedure, reduces space requirements, maintenance,

Weaving Solutions Loepfe is accredited supplier of all well-known weaving machine manufacturers. Loepfe’s WeftMaster is the leading technology and always sets new standards. Loepfe develops tailor-made overall solutions for machine manufacturers that ensure 100% weft thread insertion. Thanks to Loepfe know-how and Loepfe master technology, weaving mills have their production under control.

Contact Service at top level Loepfe has a well coordinated sales network with about 90 representations in more than 70 countries. We are local, close to the customer. Our service is the key for our customers’ success. Our assistance goes beyond mere product support.

Loepfe Brothers Ltd. Kastellstrasse 10 8623 Wetzikon / Switzerland Phone +41 43 488 11 11 info@loepfe.com www.loepfe.com

www.factor-plus.ch


62

An Interview with Mr Henning L. Eilders

Business Development Manager, Global Printing DyStar GmbH Germany Mr Henning L. Eilders

TEXtalks: Can You Please describe about the history of DyStar? Henning L. Eilders: DyStar was founded in 1995 as a joint venture between Hoechst AG and Bayer Textile Dyes. In 2000, the textile dyes business from BASF was integrated. In February 2010, DyStar Group was acquired by Zhejiang Longsheng Group and Kiri Industries Limited (KIL). The DyStar Group is a leading dyestuff & chemical manufacturer and solution provider, offering customers across the globe a broad portfolio of colorants, specialty chemicals, and services. With a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation for the textile industry, DyStar also caters to multiple sectors including the November/December 2017

paints, coatings, paper and packaging industries. Its expansion into the food & beverages and personal care sectors reinforces the company’s position as a specialty chemical manufacturer. DyStar’s global presence offers customers reliable access to experts from offices, competence centers, agencies and production plants spanning over 50 countries. TEXtalks: How do you see the scope of Reactive and Vat printing? Henning L. Eilders: Reactive and Vats both are known since many years, both with typical advantages. Reactive dyes from DyStar are well known with the trade name Remazol®, Levafix® and Procion®. For printing, mainly MCT-dyes from the Procion PX-range are used. Brilliant shades with


63

highest color yield are achievable. Selected Remazol and Levafix dyes can also be used in printing application. The work with reactive dyes is even simple. Trichromatic coloration can be done. The task for high sophisticated reactive prints is the usage of high quality dyes, a low-viscose thickening agent and a perfect wash-off process. The last point will be explained later in the presentation. Indanthren® is the trade name of DyStar’s offer of vat dyes. Selected dyes of the Indanthren range can be used for vat printing in 1phase and 2phase-fixation processes. Indanthren prints have specific fastness properties, not achievable with other dye ranges. An exceptional fastness to light and weathering, very good washing fastness and fastness to multiple washing are the main advantages of this range. DyStar is the only supplier of Jettex® Vat inks for digital printing machines. These inks have the same advantages regarding fastness properties as usual Indanthren dyes. TEXtalks: How do you compare this analogue printing with digital printing? Henning L. Eilders: Printing on digital printing machines spends high flexibility regarding the design. The repeat and the number of shades are unlimited. Typical mistakes from screen printing as unfitted repeat don’t happen. The design can be printed immediately without long-lasting retooling of the machine and bigger loss of fabric before the machine runs. And no screens and print pastes must be prepared. These are big advantages of the digital printing against conventional printing. But in digital printing color strength and penetration are limited and also the color space. And a separate production step is necessary: the preparation with separate drying. Main cost driver in digital printing are ink and preparation. Conventional printing has other advantages: Screens and print pastes are necessary; the machine needs retooling and more operators. But conventional printing is done with cheap reactive dyes. Shorter running jobs can be done in a more economical way on a digital printing machine, but the big jobs run more economical on a rotary screen printing machine. In my opinion, there is a change from the conventional printing to the digital printing. That’s already visible in the segment of flatbed printing;

flatbed printing is technique on a stable level. No further developments. Flatbed printing is still used because equipment exists but no further investment or investigation will be done. TEXtalks: How do you see the industry shift from analogue to digital printing? Henning L. Eilders: The digital printing has an estimated share of 3 to 5% of total printing output. 95% of the total printing business is analogue printed and it will need a long time before this will change. We see an annual growth in the printing industry of 3-3.5% in total. While in the digital printing, we see an annual growth of 25%. But even with its very strong growth, it will take time before it covers everything. TEXtalks: How do you describe DyStar’s concept of Sustainability? Henning L. Eilders: Sustainability is very important for DyStar. We are the first company who really go with this term with idea is sustainability because this is what everyone is asking for. Sustainability is our commitment at the DyStar Group, both in how we run our own organization, our production, logistics, as well as in the products and services we offer to brands, retailers and their industry partners. We are working in two different ways. On one side what we can do as DyStar- a manufacturing company, what we can do for ourselves is to reduce the use of water, energy and other resources in our plants. We have done big steps, big reduction of ressources. And on the other way we are partner for our customers, for the textile to reduce the resources to prepare the fabric. Today we will present the Cadira® concept. Cadira is an acronym for for carbon dioxide reduction. What can be done to reduce the consumption of water, electricity and steam in customer’s processes. This is also profitable for the textile company. TEXtalks: How do you see Pakistan’s market for DyStar products? Henning L. Eilders: Pakistan is very important; it is one of the big textile markets. It is an increasing market. DyStar had a year in 2016 and we are sure to make it even better this year. We have a good team of local experts in Pakistan, with seniors and new members. This team is supported by specialists from Europe. The people and colleagues are experts in exhaust dyeing, in continuous dyeing and in printing as well. They have big experience in denim which is very important. Pakistan, will be now and in future a big player in the textile market.

November/December 2017


Reports

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Generalised Scheme of Preferences in South Asia - Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka European Union’s GSP programme supports economic growth and job creation in the beneficiary country by generating increased export revenue. At the same time, GSP supports EU businesses' competiveness by lowering the costs of imported components. The GSP has three objectives: • contribute to poverty eradication by expanding exports from countries most in need • promote sustainable development and good governance • ensure that the EU's financial and economic interests are safeguarded The GSP Regulation provides a sliding scale of preferences within three schemes according to the different needs of developing countries: • Standard GSP for low and lower-middle income countries - The standard General Scheme of Preferences reduces EU import duties for about 66% of all product tariff lines. • GSP+ for vulnerable low and lower-middle income countries - The Special Incentive Arrangement for Sustainable Development and Good Governance (GSP+) grants full removal of EU customs tariffs on over 66% of product tariff lines. GSP+ helps developing countries manage the new responsibilities that come from ratifying and implementing 27 core international conventions on human and labour rights, November/December 2017

environmental protection and good governance. • EBA (Everything But Arms) for least developed countries - The Everything But Arms scheme grants full duty free and quota free access to the EU Single Market for all products (except arms and munitions).

GSP

GSP+

EBA

India

Pakistan

Afghanistan

Sri Lanka

Bangladesh Bhutan Nepal

Pakistan – GSP+ EU-Pakistan bilateral trade relations are governed by the Cooperation Agreement from 2004. Enhancing bilateral trade and investment is also part of the EU-Pakistan 5-year Engagement Plan from 2012. Pakistan is a major beneficiary of the trading opportunities offered by the EU Generalised Scheme of Preferences (GSP). From 1 January 2014 Pakistan benefits from generous tariff preferences (mostly zero duties on two thirds of all product categories)


65

under the so-called GSP+ arrangement aiming to support sustainable development and good governance. In order to maintain GSP+ Pakistan has to keep ratification and effectively implement 27 core international conventions on human and labour right, environmental protection and good governance. The EU being Pakistan's most important trading partner taking 21.2% of Pakistan's total exports. EU-Pakistan trade increased by almost 4.7% annually between 2007 and 2011. Pakistani exports to the EU are dominated by textiles and clothing as well as leather products. Textiles and clothing account for just under 75% of Pakistan's exports to the EU. Pakistan's imports from the EU mainly comprise mechanical and electrical machinery as well as chemical and pharmaceutical products. Sri Lanka – GSP+ Sri Lanka has been a major beneficiary of the trading opportunities offered by the Generalised Scheme of Preferences. Since a decision to temporarily withdraw the Generalized System of Preferences Plus benefits in 2010, Sri Lanka has still enjoyed preferential access to the EU market for its key export items to the EU, such as clothing. The EU is Sri Lanka's

largest export destination, absorbing 36% of its exports. Textiles and clothing account for more than half of Sri Inkjet printing Lanka’s export value with machinery, rubber-based goods, jewellery and agricultural products making up for the rest. Bangladesh – EBA As a Least Developed Country (LDC), Bangladesh benefits from the most favourable regime available under the EU's Generalized Scheme of Preferences (GSP), namely the Everything But Arms (EBA) arrangement. The EU is Bangladesh's main trading partner, accounting for around 24% of Bangladesh's total trade in 2015. In 2015, Bangladesh was the EU's 35th largest trading partner in goods. EU imports from Bangladesh are dominated by clothing, accounting for over 90% of the EU's total imports from Bangladesh. EU exports to Bangladesh are dominated by machinery and transport equipment (49%). From 2008 to 2015, EU28 imports from Bangladesh have almost trebled from €5,464 million to €15,145 million, which represents nearly half of Bangladesh's total exports. November/December 2017


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In July 2013, in response to the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory complex which killed scores of workers, the EU took the initiative of launching a Sustainability Compact for Bangladesh with the aim of improving labour rights and factory safety in the ready-made garment industry. The initiative brings together the EU, the Government of Bangladesh, the USA, Canada - i.e. the main markets for Bangladeshi garment production - as well as the International labour Organisation (ILO). The Compact is based on short and long-term commitments related to three inter-linked pillars: • respect for labour rights; • structural integrity of buildings and occupational safety and health; • responsible business conduct. The Compact has contributed to tangible improvements in workplace safety, though respect of workers' rights remains a pressing issue in Bangladesh. The EU's Fourth Technical Report on the Bangladesh Sustainability Compact was published in October 2017. Impact of the scheme For some of the countries concerned, the share of preferential exports to the EU is significant, compared to their total worldwide exports (Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka) and this partly explains the leverage the EU has been able to garner from its trade preferences in order to promote human rights. The garment sector in the beneficiary countries has benefited most from the scheme. This economic sector has great potential to create employment, especially for women, lifting people out of poverty. Thus, GSP contributes both directly and indirectly (through its conditionality) to improving human rights. On the other hand, the benefits of the system accrue mainly to a small number of countries. Around 90 % of the total volume of preferential exports to the EU under GSP originates in less than 10 countries, located mainly in South and South-East Asia. Pakistan was the second country in South and Southeast Asia to receive the trade advantage, giving it a 10 to 14 percent duty advantage over major regional competitors including China, India, Vietnam, Thailand, and Indonesia. Between 2013 and 2015, Pakistan’s most important export industry – garments – increased exports by 10 percent. But Bangladesh and India increased their garments

November/December 2017

exports in the same period by 13 percent and 17 percent, respectively. This shows that Pakistan has not yet fully exploited the benefits of the GSP plus status. The desired benefit of the GSP plus status – substantially higher exports – will be realized only when the energy, tax and customs challenges are addressed comprehensively. Improving Pakistan’s business environment will also be key to attracting foreign clients including Chinese investors, given that the Chinese garment industry is relocating to lower-cost developing countries and Pakistan offers the additional advantage of easy access to European markets. The main sector, which substantially benefited from GSP+, was the ready-made garment industry, which is instrumental in generating employment and reducing poverty in Sri Lanka. The potential negative consequences on employment and poverty showcase the kind of dilemma the EU faces when deciding on sanctions. The new Sri Lanka government, elected in January 2015, made significant progress on human rights (praised by NGOs) and decided to reapply for GSP+ in June 2016. Bangladesh is the biggest beneficiary of the EBA scheme. Its ready-made garment sector is the main producer of goods exported to the EU. As per the plan of the government, Bangladesh will graduate to a middle-income country from the least developed country by the end of 2021. After the graduation, the country may not enjoy the zero-duty benefit under the EU's everything but arms (EBA). Maplecroft, an international agency that ranks countries according to their investment climate, places Pakistan and Bangladesh in the high-risk category. Pakistan fares much worse than Bangladesh on most categories. Currently, more than 80% of Pakistan’s exports to the EU consist of textile and clothing. Almost 72% of exports to the EU went to five countries – the UK, Germany, Spain, the Netherlands and Italy. Pakistan’s adverse business climate hinders investments in export manufacturing particularly by new EU-based clients. International buyers prefer suppliers from less risky countries, especially where physical engagement with firms is possible. Pakistan should take full advantage of GSP Plus and increase exports of its traditional and non-traditional products to the EU member states. On a separate note, the UK leaving the EU can be a loss for Pakistan’s dealings with Brussels, and Pakistan would be looking for a GSP+ like deal with post-Brexit Britain.


4th International Digital Printing & Signage Technology Exhibition & Conference DPS World – 2018

DPS WORLD 2018 Forecast

25

Countries

200

Companies

13,500

Floor Space Sqm


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Moisture Wicking “Cool Action Suit” Idea becomes reality Comfort may be defined as a pleasant state of psychological, physiological and physical harmony between a human being and the environment. Today humans rely on clothing which protects body from cold and heat throughout full range of human activities, otherwise it leads to discomfort. Discomfort mainly results from the build-up of sweat on the skin and insufficient heat loss during overheating in hot environments and exercise. To create a comfortable clothing a designer considers fashion and other technical factors; fibre nature and size, surface modification of fibres (hydrophobic or hydrophilic treatments), hydrophobic or hydrophilic membranes fused to the textile layers, weaving or knitting patterns and abrasion of the fabric surface etc. are parameters by which we can enhance comfort of clothing. Some professionals who are always on the go, the need to remain cool, composed and comfortable is integral to performance. This is especially true for business professionals who often work in hot climates. The inventors of the Cool Action Suit (CAS) have collectively worked alongside global dignitaries (including U.S. presidents) from the worlds of politics, sports and entertainment. Oftentimes on hot tarmacs across the globe on summer days, federal agents, including U.S. Secret Service Agents, would talk about how warm, sweaty and uncomfortable they were in their traditional business suits. Embarrassing perspiration and discomfort can impede job performance and confidence, betraying any outward November/December 2017

poise or self-assurance. Being an advance man for President Barack Obama had its advantages for Northeast Ohio native Ron Carson and Carson says “I was standing on an airport tarmac waiting for US dignitaries to land, alongside the US Secret Service and other law enforcement personnel; it was about 120 degrees (about 50 °C) in New Delhi, India. We were all perspiring profusely through the suits, so I said, ‘There has to be a better way’. I was a big fan of moisture-wicking fabrics, so a lightbulb went off and the invention was born” The inventors saw a void in the market and a need for a business suit that would provide wearers with a cool and comfortable experience while tackling high-performance jobs. It is not uncommon for US federal agents, as well as state and local law enforcement officers, to work 20-hour days and spend weeks at a time on the road, all of this usually outside in extreme weather for extended periods of time. These individuals may be called upon to exert themselves physically at a moment’s notice while maintaining a cool demeanor, and at the same time “blending in.” The agents do all of this while wearing professional attire. One of the only logistical functions perhaps outside of their control is the mitigation of perspiration due to activity and heat exposure. The Cool Action Suit incorporates • Flexible, lightweight, moisture-wicking fabric for business suits. • Draws moisture away from the body and dress shirt.


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• Leaves the inner layer protected, comfortable and cool. All men and women who need to wear business suits can benefit from the suit’s cool and comfortable attributes—including professional athletes working in between the lines, coaches working up a sweat during the heat of competition, attorneys in steamy courtrooms, news anchors and reporters working in the field or under hot studio lights—all while needing to keep a cool demeanor and a professional appearance and comfort level. Key Features of the CAS • Made for concealed carry. A built-in an extra-wide waistband to accommodate your concealed carry. • The suit is elegantly designed with a proper fit for an active person. • Extra pockets places to put in extra necessities. • The suit features performance-based, breathable, wrinkle-free, moisture wicking fabric. • Utilises a unique fabric blend strategically placed in the lining of the suit jackets and pants, which helps to reduce sweating and keeps the wearer's body cooler and drier, leading to overall comfort. And, it appears, the functional properties of the suit will not stop at moisture-wicking. “We’ve been speaking with the US military about different applications such as GPS satellite devices – we could introduce those into the suit for military and personnel in the line of duty to track them as they go

about their work,” says Carson. “We’ve also been speaking to law enforcement officers about designing school suits for children equipped with these tracking devices, in case they go missing. The possibilities are endless.” The W. Diamond Group Corporation, makers of the Hart Schaffner Marx suit brand, and one of the world’s largest suit manufacturers, manufactures the Cool Action Suit in the United States. Hart Schaffner Marx suits are made in both Chicago, and at the Keystone Tailored Manufacturing factory in Ron Carson’s hometown, Cleveland, Ohio. The Cool Action Suit is Patent Pending and has hit the market, currently being sold through Carson’s e-commerce business www.coolactionsuit.com. Suits for both men and women retail on the Cool Action Suit website for $499.99. Men’s and women’s pants can be purchased separately for $124.99. High performance apparel is engineered to perform a function or achieve a certain level of performance, over and above normal functions of clothing. The idea of performance clothing has been dominated by sportswear and protective clothing. However, Pakistan’s climatic conditions presents an untapped opportunity for local clothing manufacturers to offer high performance clothing for certain apparel applications. These efforts need to be backed-up by robust research and development to offer new products which offer premium comfort in hot weather. One successful example of this has been the development of a new uniform for Pakistan’s military. November/December 2017


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Spinning the Future of High Performance Fabrics Mimicking the Spider Silk

Spiders produce silk fibres with remarkable properties including high tensile strength, elasticity, durability and softness. Researchers have gone through a menagerie of host organisms searching for the secret to spider silk production. They’ve tried using goats, modified silkworms, and microorganisms such as Salmonella and E. coli. And some of them did make silk. But no one ever achieved the holy grail of spider silk fibres: making sufficient quantities at a price reasonable enough to sell commercially. November/December 2017

Bolt Threads claims to develop technology to replicate this amazing process sustainably at large scale. Bolt Threads is a venture backed, idea driven company, led by world-class scientific and engineering talent, as well as experienced executives from the technology and apparel industries. Bolt Threads is a team of eighty people with robust technology and It all started back when the co-founders Dan, David, and Ethan met in 2009. There are no spiders involved at all in the making of


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Bolt Threads Engineered Silk™ fibres. The real spiders’ silk was studied to understand the relationship between the spiders’ DNA and the characteristics of the fibres they make. The technology allows to make those proteins without using spiders. Looking at the DNA of spiders, the company then creates sequences engineered for product performance. The whole process is informed by the understanding of how spiders make silks. The company is already actually producing the Engineered Silk™ fibres at commercial scale, this is being done at a cost that makes it viable for widespread use in consumer products such as apparel. Looked under a microscope, Engineered Silk™ fibres have the exact same chemistry as naturally occurring animal silks from spiders or silk worms. Studied silk proteins found in nature to determine what gives them their incredible properties

Developed proteins inspired by these natural silks by putting genes into yeast

Produced the protein in large quantities through fermentation, using yeast, sugar and water

Spun the silk protein into fibres

Conversion of these fibers into fabrics and garments

Production The primary ingredients are sugar, water, salts and yeast. In summary, yeast produces silk protein in a liquid form during fermentation. After some processing, the liquid silk protein can be turned into fibre through wet spinning. Wet spinning is required for polymers that require dissolving in a solvent to be spun. It is named wet spinning because the fibres are extruded directly into a liquid bath. Being extruded into a liquid provides a greater drag force on the filament than those extruded directly into air, therefore the speeds at which this occurs is reduced from that of melt and dry spinning. Once evaporated these fibres then have to be drawn or stretched in order to orient the polymers to give the fibre its strength. Wet spinning is based on precipitation, where a polymer is drawn through a spinneret into a non-solvent. The prepared spinning dope is extruded into the non-solvent and precipitation or coagulation occurs. Fibres spun using this

Dress from laboratory-created silk, designed by Stella McCartney

November/December 2017


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process include Acrylic, Rayon, Aramid, and Spandex. The recipe for Engineered SilkTM is still being refined. As the technology is scaled up, the company commits to being completely transparent about the process used to make the fibres. All of the production is currently in the United States and the plan is to keep it there. Making the products in the US, using domestically grown crops and manufacturing resources, enables the company to create jobs and also eliminate some of the environmental impact of transportation. The Engineered Silk™ fibres are made of protein—they contain no DNA and no genetically modified organisms. The process by which the fibres are made involves many steps. One step utilizes genetically engineered yeast. This step takes place in a closed loop process in a sterile facility, at the end of which the yeast is destroyed by heat. This is the same process that is used to make most of the cheese, along with insulin and many other drugs. The technology has been in use for decades: It was approved for making insulin and vaccines in the 1980s and has been used in cheese-making since 1990. There are concerns about GMO crops and GMOs in food. It’s important to thoroughly examine these technologies and balance reasonable concerns with the potential for doing good. The process used to modify yeast has been in widespread use for decades, and the company claim that they are confident that it poses no harm. Currently, all large fermentation facilities in the US use corn sugar from genetically modified corn, so that’s what Bolt Threads are using. The company states that in the future, large-scale fermentation can be done with non-food crops known as cellulosic feedstocks. Need of the new material Bolt Threads identifies two key reasons are

November/December 2017

performance and sustainability. It is possible to get much better performance from textiles and garments which are both softer and longer-lasting, and offer better protection from a variety of elements. Unfortunately, it is no secret that the textile industry is among the dirtiest industries on the planet: According to the World Bank, 20% of water pollution globally results from textile processing. Compare this to polyesters which are made from petroleum. Currently, more than 60% of textiles are made of polyester and other petroleum-derived fibres. The main input in the fibre-making process is sugar from plants that are grown, harvested and replanted. Furthermore, the company is driven to produce fabrics that can meet consumers’ needs while minimizing impacts on the environment. However, the life cycle analysis of the product is not yet reported. Natural silk is a wonderful, versatile fabric. It’s soft and breathable and remarkably warm. Woven silk—think pyjamas and silky dresses—is very different from a silk knit, which was the original technical base layer. Silk has fallen out of favour for everyday wear because it is not an easy-care fabric. Fabrics from Engineered SilkTM claim to combine the best qualities of silk, but will look and feel quite different from traditional silk, and also be easier to wash and wear. It is pertinent to mention that creating synthetic silk is not the only option. For example, Kraig Labs invented a new technology and acquired the exclusive right to use the patented genetic sequences for numerous fundamental spider silk proteins. The company employed its proprietary genetic engineering spider silk technology to an organism which is already one of the most efficient commercial producers of silk: The domesticated silkworm. This is a developing area and we will keep our readers abreast of the future developments.


Master the entire range of fabric weaves Master every type of weave using Stäubli solutions for frame weaving, which feature state-of-the-art technology. Whether ground fabrics, fancy fabrics, heavy and technical fabrics, double-pile or velour and carpeting, with Stäubli’s dobby solutions you will weave with outstanding productivity, reliability and cost efficiency - with any type of weaving machine and weft-insertion system. Make full use of Stäubli’s expertise: Draw upon the entire range of Stäubli machines – from weaving preparation to all weaving processes.

www.staubli.com/textile


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Levi’s jacket with Jacquard by Google debuts

Designed for the urban commuter, Jacquard technology woven into this Levi’s jacket lets the wearer access their music, navigation, and communication, such as texts and calls, with the swipe of their sleeve. “As we see it, this isn’t just about technology for technology’s sake – it’s about addressing a real need for our consumers on the go,” said Paul Dillinger, vice president of global product innovation for Levi Strauss & Co. “This garment allows cyclists to literally navigate their rides, and manage other simple tasks, while never having to take their eyes off the road. That, to me, is the true triumph of this jacket.” The Levi’s brand is Google ATAP’s first partner with Jacquard. Jacquard by Google enables designers like the Levi’s brand to embed digital interactivity and connectivity into apparel as part of their natural design process, allowing technology to become a new ingredient for their creative expression.

Graphene Plus (G+) for work-wear Directa Plus, a producer of graphene-based products, has signed its first contract to supply high performance technical textiles with Graphene Plus (G+) to Alfredo Grassi, a leading manufacturer of customised protective clothing, work-wear and uniforms. Directa Plus is one of the largest producers and suppliers of graphene-based products for use in consumer and industrial markets. Established in 2005, the company has a patented technology process and a scalable and exportable manufacturing model. It produces graphene-based products at its own factory in Lomazzo, Italy, and can set up additional production at customer locations.

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Illuminated pajamas for treating newborns

protection. Irradiation with blue light in an incubator is necessary because toxic decomposition products of the blood pigment hemoglobin are deposited in the skin in newborns with jaundice. Researchers of the Empa division Biomimetic Membranes and Textiles have now improved the not-so-child-friendly procedure by combining the treatment with the needs of the newborns: The team, led by Luciano Boesel, developed illuminated pajamas for babies that are designed to turn the treatment into a wellness experience. Empa researchers have developed illuminated pajamas that replace the treatment with shortwave light in an incubator for babies who suffer from jaundice after birth. “This means newborns can get healthy while warm and happy in their mothers' arms,� researchers explain. Newborns being treated for jaundice lie in incubators alone, naked, and with their eyes covered for

To do this, the material researchers created textiles with optically conductive fibres woven into them. Battery-operated LEDs serve as a light source for the light-conducting threads. Together with conventional thread, the optical fibres are woven into a satin material that distributes the light supply evenly throughout the fabric, as the researchers recently reported in the trade journal Biomedical Optics Express.

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Polish researchers develop layered textile solutions for premature infants

A team of researchers from Poland’s Lodz University of Technology (LUT) is working to develop innovative textile clothing for premature infants that is to protect them against dehydration and ensure thermal stability through special layered textile systems. “The overall objective of the project is to develop innovative solutions for the construction of clothing products for prematurely born infants. These new products should reduce dehydration due to evaporation, and, at the same time, provide thermal comfort,”. “Total body water content changes drastically from before birth until one year of age. At

Teijin develops cooling vest for firefighters

24 weeks gestational age, a baby's total body water content is close to 80% of total body weight. This slowly decreases until the child is around one year of age, when total body water content is about 60% of total body weight,” the study says. “After birth, infants are expected to lose approximately 5%-15% of their body weight, with more being lost in low birth weight infants.” “The cotton knitwear that is currently used [to protect such infants] causes thermal discomfort because the water that is absorbed from an infant’s body and its surrounding evaporates, and, as a result, it reduces its body temperature,”.

The cooling vest is said to effectively reduce body temperature and heart rate through sweat absorption, quick drying and moisture permeability. The electric fans pull in outside air for up to eight hours. Conventional flame-retardant protective clothing for firefighters tends to trap body heat, raising the risk of heat stroke, particularly in the summer. The cooling vest helps firefighters maintain performance and energy levels while fighting fires, as well as benefit from high levels of comfort and flexibility,” the company explains. The outermost of three fabric layers is made with Teijin’s Teijinconex, a heat-resistant, flame-retardant meta-aramid fibre. The middle and innermost layers are made with high-functional polyester fabrics for sweat absorption, quick drying and moisture permeability.

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Sensil premium Nylon 6.6 Sensil is said to be naturally softer, stronger, more durable, and more moisture-wicking and odour-resistant than other man-made fibres. Sensil creates fabrics with beautiful drape and hand. “Sensil performance yarns are enhanced to provide additional attributes that consumers require in today’s advanced fabrics,” the manufacturer explains. “Sensil Breeze imbues apparel with a cooling effect. Sensil Body Fresh protects against the odours microbes can cause, which means clothes don’t have to be laundered as often. Sensil Heat provides warmth on chilly days while Sensil Aquarius wicks perspiration to stay comfortable on warm days. There’s even Sensil Innergy that helps energize cells and reduce the appearance of cellulite.”

New textile keeps hospital door handles germ free A spin out company from the University of Leeds has developed a self-disinfecting device known as Surfaceskins that is said to reduce bacteria levels by more than 90%, following seven years of research and development. By incorporating the specially-engineered textile in a device designed to be used on hospital doors instead of the traditional aluminium door plate, that part of the door that people push to open it – scientists aim to bolster hand hygiene. Hospital doors are recognised as a key weak link in hygiene because of the number of times people touch them. It takes just one person with dirty hands to pass through a door to put everyone else who follows at risk of cross contamination. Surfaceskins antibacterial door pads work by dispensing a small

quantity of alcohol gel onto the pad when it is pushed, to disinfect the surface ready for the next person to use the door. This low-cost device, which incorporates three separate nonwoven textiles is designed to be replaced after seven days or one thousand pushes, whichever comes sooner. November/December 2017


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French brand presents jeans with Smart yarn

French brand Un Jour Ailleurs has collaborated with Emana, the smart yarn developed by the Global Business Unit Fibras at the Solvay Group, to produce new Apollon slim jeans. “The ideal companion for a streamlined silhouette, the garment launched by the French brand might look like ordinary jeans, but it actually hides a beauty secret,” the company reports. Emana, an innovative polyamide yarn with incorporated bioactive minerals, in contact with the body, facilitates heat exchange, which is said to boost skin microcirculation and improve skin’s appearance. Manufactured and distributed in Europe exclusively by Fulgar, the Emana yarn is said to absorb body heat then return it in the form of far infrared rays, harmless and imperceptible natural thermal energy waves, which are said to help stimulate microcirculation at skin level. “Clinical tests, conducted by independent and international cosmetic laboratories, guarantee the effectiveness of the yarn and highlight its effects, which include improving blood microcirculation, making the skin more elastic, firmer and softer, as well as – last but not least – reducing skin imperfections,” the company explains.

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Smart helmets to prevent hearing injuries Tiny microphones almost invisible to the naked eye are being knitted into the fabric covering army helmets to reduce the risk of soldiers developing hearing injuries, thanks to new research by Nottingham Trent University. The microphones – when knitted into the fabric covering regular personnel headwear – will be undetectable to the user and avoid interfering with military activities. “This innovation will dramatically reduce the risk of service personnel injured due to long-term noise exposure,” said Professor Dias. “By integrating a low-cost and discrete dosemeter directly into a textile, such as a helmet cover, the noise exposure of personnel will be monitored and stored, providing the data necessary to take preventative action in the future.”

New recombinant spider silk Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, a leading developer of spider silk based fibres, has announced that it is now working to create a set of new custom designed transgenic silkworms under its contract with the US Army. The company says it is working with material performance objectives, defined by the customer, to develop entirely new genetically enhanced silkworm strains. “This project is an excellent opportunity for us to demonstrate the incredible potential and power of engineered silk,” said COO Jon Rice.

These new silk polymers will be evaluated against defined performance requirements and the best performing materials will be scaled up to produce upwards of 100kgs of silk thread. The company expects the new strains to complement its Dragon Silk fibres, but, with an eye on additional targeted applications, the fibres will be designed to generate even higher tensile strength. As a result, these new enhanced fibres should provide outstanding performance in protective textile applications.

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New suit by Reebok and Huntsman The Huntsman prototype suit will extenuate the versatile potential of Reebok Flexweave, testing the material’s innovative figure-8 weave structure that can interlock different individual fibres. Led by Huntsman Head Cutter and Creative Director Campbell Carey, Huntsman will take the first generation of Flexweave material designed for footwear and curate the textile into a premium suit. “This a unique, creative and exciting proposition from Reebok. After closely examining Flexweave, we were both surprised and inspired by the challenge of using this non-traditional material to create a bespoke garment. The perfect suit is a fusion between fit, comfort and style – working with Flexweave to hit each of these essentials is an experiment we’ll relish,” said Campbell Carey, Head Cutter and Creative Director, Huntsman.”

Cordura introduces new protective fabric technologies New Cordura brand high visibility, lightweight, waterproof, durable 2- and 3-layer laminated fabrics for outerwear are targeted for garments used in road/rail construction, as well as security and emergency services. A range of flame retardant coated fabrics engineered with Cordura fibre technology for enhanced abrasion resistance feature fabrics from Arvind, India and SR Webatex, Germany. Carrington FlameTougher 280AS made with Cordura Nyco fabric technology are said November/December 2017

to offer enhanced abrasion and tear resistance and designed to meet EN1162 for flame retardant clothing. An enhanced range of high tenacity polyester and nylon 6,6 Cordura fabrics with Lycra T400 stretch technology for workwear garment reinforcement include options tested to meet high temperature industrial wash requirements. The latest hardwearing, hard-working denims include cutting-edge fabrics with high tear strength and stretch recovery functionality for service trousers.


Plasma nanocoating solutions Nanofics refers to nanoscaled functionalisation into the core of complex shaped materials and products. It is Europlasma’s patented and patent pending nanocoating technology platform, first applied on industrial scale in 1996. Since then, more than 45 companies in textiles and filtration industries worldwide have adopted the technology, the manufacturer reports. Three innovative nanocoating types have been designed for use on both gas and liquid filtration media and products. The coatings can be applied by Europlasma equipment in a roll-to-roll fashion or on the finished product. Nanofics 120 coatings are highly water repellent (water contact angle of 120 degrees according to ASTM D5946) and highly oil repellent (oil repellency level 8 according to ISO 14419) fluoropolymer type of

Leaders in textile sustainability, Cone Denim, Lenzing and Unifi, are collaborating on the launch of Future Black+ denim featuring Lenzing Modal branded fibres and Repreve Black recycled fibres.

nanocoatings deposited by low pressure plasma technology. Nanofics 110 coatings are highly water repellent (water contact angle of 110 degrees according to ASTM D5946) and highly oil repellent (oil repellency level 6 according to ISO 14419) fluoropolymer type of nanocoatings. The unique aspect of these coatings is that they are completely free from PFOA and PFOS, the company explains.

Cone denim launches Future Black+ denim

Future Black+, the industry's first certified fade-resistant black denim, will join Cone Denim's family of TruTone fabrics. According to the manufacturers, jeans made from Future Black+ denim contain as many as 17 recycled plastic bottles and feature superior softness, colour retention and stretch, while minimising the impact on the environment. Future BLACK+ denim achieves its durable color by utilizing dope dyeing, an energy-saving and environmentally friendly dyeing technique that introduces the pigment during the production process. Adding the colorant during manufacturing allows the entire body of the fiber to be colored instead of only the surface and eliminates the need for a dye bath later in the process. Wash tests[1] have shown that denim made from Future BLACK+ showed no sign of color loss even after more than 20 washes, producing a denim that's built to last.

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Shanghaitex 2017 The 18th International Exhibition on Textile Industry November 27-30, 2017 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre, China.

GTex Global Expo Karachi An international Textile Machinery Brand Expo January 26-28, 2018 Venue: Expo Center Karachi, Pakistan.

DOMOTEX asia/CHINAFLOOR The second largest flooring trade exhibition worldwide March 20-22, 2018 Venue: New International Exhibition Centre (SNIEC) Shanghai, China.

ITM 2018International Textile Machinery exhibition April 14-17, 2018 Venue: TĂœYAP Fair Convention and Congress Center Istanbul, Turkey.

IGATEX Lahore 2018 International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition April 26-29, 2018 Venue: Expo Centre Lahore, Pakistan.

FESPA 2018 International leading print and digital printing exhibition May 15-18, 2018 Venue: Messe Berlin, Germany.

DPS World 2018 Pakistan’s premium Digital Printing & Signage exhibition October 12-14, 2018 Venue: Expo Center Lahore, Pakistan.

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2018 An International Garment, Textile Machinery & Accessories exhibition October 26-30, 2018 Venue: National Exhibition and Convention Centre (NECC) Shanghai, China.

be a part of inspiring Change

International Conference on Textiles Covering the emerging global issues & innovative solutions for textiles April 24-25, 2018 Venue: Lahore- Pakistan.

ITMA 2019 The world's largest international textile machinery exhibition June 20-26, 2019 Venue: Barcelona, Spain.

textalks.com/category/events.

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