THE UNIVERSITY OF HUDDERSFIELD SURFACE TEXTILES CRAFT GRADUATES 2O14 PRESS PACK NEW DESIGNERS PART1
Heidi
Beesley Heidi designs unique woven fabric, taking inspiration from Japanese methodologies around the making and process of woven craft, taking inspiration from Japanese myths and legends celebrating fabric that represents the beauty behind the craft, through symbolism, communication and meaning. Without replicating the culture Heidi creates her own trend using photography as a way to represent the use of imagery and meaning within the culture, this is used to inspire each decision in the design process, from colour, pattern and yarn type, therefore creating a unique contemporary collection based around historic traditions. Through research and experimentation Heidi has developed an understanding of the way she works, naturally working to create fabric for the need of fabric alone letting the buyer decide what it is best suited to. As the fabric is created using personal meaning, once the decision has been made from the buyer it creates additional meaning from the users point of view. Each piece was made using two weaving techniques, these are arm loom and Dornier loom weaving, by using both machine and handmade weaving a diversity is shown through the same craft process.
Heidi has recently received an award for outstanding work based on creativity and innovation awarded by Huddersfield Textile Society.
07415070410 Heididesigns@outlook.com www.heiideii.beesley.wix.com/heidiweavedesigner
The Serendipity...
...of Everyday
Each piece is unique; a change in pattern and colour is used, experimenting with a variety of photographs and drawings. Through each piece Heidi aims to show the beauty in the unnoticed, the idea that the fabric started off as a photograph is unusual and unexpected to those viewing the fabric. There is no restriction to the target audience; Heidi works by creating fabric that can be used in a number of industries.
Amy
Green Eclectic Vibes is inspired by a hazy, chilled out- yet young, fresh and bohemian vibe. My aim was to create a collection that would reflect a relaxed, festival hippie style- perfect to throw on and have fun with friends in. To gain insight into this kind of style I gathered much inspiration from gypsy cultures that for centuries have fashioned themselves based on floral elements, folkloric patterns and jewellery. Their nomadic, adaptable, and unusual lives reflect the eclectic vibe of my work. My knits have a real miss-matched, handmade impression- full of unusual techniques and colours, each very unique and personal. The colours are bright yet wearable due to the tonal hues, and the use of such a variety of yarns adds a real diverse compilation. The bespoke designs were created on a domestic brother knitting machine; they were heavily hand manipulated through techniques such as fleshage and lace detailing Targeted at a high-end market for women, this hand crafted and detailed collection will assist in unleashing a real bohemian, eccentric and eclectic vibe for all who dare to wear it. Amy has recently won First Prize for Creativity and Innovation in Design (Knit) 2014 from the Huddersfield Textile Society.
Eclectic...
...Vibes
07576678418 amyleighgreen@live.com www.wix.com/amyleighgreen/alg
Iona
Grubb
07578065232 ionaludlow@yahoo.com http://ionakimgrubb@wix.com/textiles
A Polish...
...Spring
Taking influence from the rich and colourful patterns within traditional polish costume, this collection has been inspired by the work of Polish photographer J. Kreiger who photographed peasants from around Krakow, producing a beautiful record of their regional costumes. Iona was drawn to these photos by their powerful use of colour. The photos are washed out and aged but the costume detailing has been painted on with bright and vibrant colours. Kreiger’s style has a modern look to it, which Iona has interpreted into her knitted designs. Folk trends are forever evolving to stay relevant to the current market and this project to taps into folk trends in a fresh and airy way. Designed for the spring/summer 2015 catwalk the collection uses light, innovative knitted structures and embroidery techniques to create colourful impressions, which dapple over the garments fading in and out of sight. The use of colour, the shaping of the garments and the placement of the designs has all been developed from aspects of Polish costume. The collection combines a traditional folk look with modern techniques and more minimal presentation. The knitted structures and embroidery techniques were developed to achieve quite graphical designs on the knit. Experimentation with weaving stitches into the knits was built up into impressions and images based on the patterns in traditional polish costume. The knitted structures were developed to compliment this stitching. Monofilament was integrated into these structures to create negative space, which would hold the stitching and add lightness to the fabric. Textile samples were then developed to become a collection of five garments, which combine elaborate, polish pattern with a more modern minimal look, perfect for S/S 2015.
Megan
Hamer
Visually stimulating geometric shapes and optical illusions are prominent in this genre for interior design with graphical geometric shapes globally influencing our interior environments.
07809219809 megan.hamer@aol.com meganhamer7.wix.com//surfacedesign
Geometry...
...Through Illusion
Geometry through illusion is a project that is heavily influenced by geometric forms and graphical structures. Megan applies this to her own design work embracing this through hard materials. She explores shape through linear forms using Perspex to explore layering, to create illusion and graphical matter. This is combined with light emitting LED light and a great influence of energetic colours, allowing her to push the boundaries of acrylic. Her aims set out are to create unusual ways to involve Perspex into spaces of relaxation and social interaction. She focuses her designs are aimed at open space statement interiors that are visually effective in a number of environments. The combination of structure, linear forms and layering are a component that allows her to design for contemporary and current interiors with unique twist. Focused for grander scale environment Megan wants her work to consume a grand impact in open surroundings for open interior spaces. A simple, more refined approached through colourblocking and angular geometrics forms influence graphic inspired pattern displays. Over layered repeats and refined pattern blocking creates a fresh, contemporary textile approach and surface interest for upcoming interior spaces.
Sally
Hancock
07704676359 sally_hancock@hotmail.com www.sallyhancock.wix.com/shdesign
Experimenting with...
...Texture through Weave
Using time, thinking and the concept of “slow” as working methodology, I use a weaving arm loom as my main drawing utensil, to create intricate woven fabric that explores texture. As a crafts based loom weaver whose chosen direction is design, my practice is predominantly based on the quality and design of the fabric made. The choice of yarns and the structures used to create such beautiful, unique cloth are a major part of my practice of which I am continuously challenging myself. My work begins to explore how slow is incorporated into crafts and how important it is within my textile practice. The thinking processes behind how I, as a textile practitioner, work, and the daily questions I have to ask myself that continue to define my work. Questions such as, materials I wish to use, are they appropriate? What is the purpose of the end result? And what will happen next? Is the structure used, appropriate for my project brief and will it relate to my research? These are all questions I will ask myself daily in order to achieve my goals and ambitions. The design processes along with the idea of working at a slower and controlled speed, are two core themes that run throughout my practice and make my work unique and individual to me as a textile craft practitioner, but in particular as a weave craftsperson. Identifying the connections between my thinking processes and the work that is being produced, helps me gain a better understanding of what achievements can be made within each project, and what the final outcome will be. Using a variety of diverse yarns and a collection of structures, I produce fabric for a bespoke market that is directed at female buyers. The fabric is created for interiors of a high end “rich country chic” market that can be used for a variety of home furnishings, such as throws, cushions, and upholstery.
Kimberley
Harrington
Kimberley Harrington 07447947670 kimberleyharrington@outlook.com
A New Way of...
...Telling New Stories
This collection began with a trip to Berlin in summer 2013. The designer was hugely inspired by the growing variations of street art throughout the colourful city. Harrington wanted to capture the vivid colours and general culture of today’s many forms of street art into her collection. She started with primary photos from the trip, which were used for colour reference to create bright and textural hand woven samples. Harrington concentrated on experimenting with various yarn types, and was particularly interested in comparing wool to man-made multifilament fibres and fancy textured yarns. This resulted in a whole new driving force for the project as she began to examine the on and off loom finishing effects of these various fibres. When she translated initial armloom fabrics to jacquard ideas, Harrington started to examine the effects these different fibre yarns had on organic hand drawn jacquard artworks, compared to purely CAD generated images. This was similar in many ways to her original research material: the CAD generated images are similar to the cleverly calculated and accurate stencil art pieces, where the hand drawn artwork reminded the designer of graffiti. The new question became, what happens if you weave a purely CAD generated image with a mixture of highly textured boucle yarns or have long floats in areas that will change on finishing? Earlier development trials with wool forming 3D features with extra weft floats proved a key process for the final collection pieces. This, combined with finishing trials of the various wool and man-made yarns used, creates the modern, bright and highly textured collection you see today.
Rebecca
Horner Tropical Abundance is a fashion based project inspired by the vibrant colours, luscious plants and wild animals found in tropical zones of the world. The fabrics created have been designed for scarves at a high end market level. The designs merge illustrations with colourful textures in a variety of layouts. The finished scarves have all been delicately hand foiled to add an extra element to each piece. The trends that have inspired this project started in Spring/ Summer 2014 and have developed further into 2015. By combining past and present trends there is a wide variety of imagery and patterns that has been collated to help create these designs. In addition to the trends; photo shoots were the main source of research, by visiting tropical plant houses and zoos to gain inspiring images. The photographs were translated into drawing and paintings, which were the foundation for the cad designs. A combination of Photoshop, Illustrator and AVA were used in the designing of the scarves. The scarves have been digitally printed onto silk twill and areas of the designs have been hand foiled with a variety of pearlescent and metallic foils.
07446285596 becky.horner@hotmail.co.uk www.rebeccahornerdesigns.co.uk
Tropical...
...Abundance
The colours chosen for this project have been taken from the natural vibrancy of the plants as well as taking elements from the trend predicted pantones colours. The designs clash colours with a wide range of greens; from lime to emerald with bright pinks, oranges and yellows adding to the mix. Hints of Moroccan blues and turquoises finish off the chosen palette. The aim of this project is to push tropical designs further; creating a new collection that is unlike anything else in the jungle inspired fashion world.
Daniel
Matthews This series of innovative luxe fabrics have been designed for RTW Womenswear fashion, with paper weaving at the core of this project, and is influenced by the architecture of London and the diversity it has to offer. Mixing traditional with contemporary, both inspirationally and methodically, the design process started to initiate interesting shapes from the weaves created, thrown together with the brash yet controlled blocks of brush stroked colour. Wanting to produce a sense of illusion CAD became a heavy influence, photographing paper weaves and sculptures and adding them to the bright bold striking designs. The shapes of colour evolved from the intricate tight structures of the large scale paper weaves, which were then laser cut on a contrasting fabric and bonded to the base layer, to create a glistening effect when the light is refracting from different angles, giving yet again another sense of illusion. Daniel has recently received two awards – Winner of the North of England Regional Heat of the Society of Dyers and Colourist’s Competition 2014 for his use of colour and innovative design in his collection. He will compete in the national heat in June at the Houses of Parliament. He has also received first prize from the Huddersfield Textile Society for his creativity and innovation in print design.
Bloc
Bloc
07969436724 danmatthews5@hotmailco.uk www.wix.com/danmatthews5/djm
Tavares Adriana
Adriana Tavares is a hand tufted rug designer and maker with a passion to promote craft education. She curated a collaborative community lead project entitled ‘if you can draw it, you can tuft it’. The project enabled younger generations to experience craft education outside the National Curriculum and understand how beneficial craft can be to all walks of life. Adriana ran several workshops within a school and these workshops informed her own practice through the translation of drawings into rugs. Via these translations she gave the students a voice, a voice saying what they produce is valued, respected and an inspirational piece of artwork. Collaboration is used highly within Adriana’s practice and through this collaboration she is able to teach high levels of craftsmanship and utilise it within her own work. Adriana uses the drawings to develop new techniques such as translating a watercolour painting into a rug, or a textured piece of artwork into a tactile product.
When the high end rugs are purchased, each individual rug supports the promotion of craft education as 10% of profits go back into supporting and further developing craft education. The rugs retail between £800-£1700 and can be purchased from craft fairs and her website: www. adrianatavaresrugs.wix.com/ifyoucandrawityoucantuftit. Adriana has exhibited at The Knitting and Stitching Show and recently won the Best Final Year for BA/BSc in Manufactured Wool Products 2014 by The Worshipful Company of Woolmen.
07511299772 adrianatavaresrugs@gmail.com
www.adrianatavaresrugs.wix.com/ifyoucandrawityoucantuftit
If you can draw it...
...you can tuft it
Adriana’s process when designing is hands-on and methodical. She steps away from the traditional aesthetics of rugs and opens up questions on the boundaries that rugs can be pushed, with the focus on shape, design and colour. Her designs recreate the same techniques that are done when drawing freehand with a specialty in blending colours. Each rug is bespoke and made using locally sourced woollen yarns.
Emily
Thomas Emily Thomas is a hand embroiderer who explores narrative through unconventional ways. Offering an alternative approach to hand embroidery through closely linking this narrative with inventive drawing techniques. This is then translated into hand embroidery that depicts texture, colour and the unique marks of how the paint lies on the papers surface.
Studying textile crafts has equipped Emily with a broad knowledge and understanding of textiles both traditional and contemporary. Challenging what is expected from a traditional craft is very much embedded within Emily’s practice. Exploring colour, repetition, deconstructing stitches and even working inside out are all techniques that are explores within her practice. Taking on the skills and techniques of traditional embroidery with a different approach. Emily’s job at Hand & Lock will continue to inspire, perfect and build upon her practice and working methods. Emily will continue to champion hand embroidery taking inspiration from everyday occurrences. Capturing wit and humour within her work gives Emily’s craft driven approach to embroidery a fresh and intriguing aesthetic.
07784255798 emilythomasembroidery@gmail.com www.emily-thomas.wix.com/emilythomas
A Chaos of Threads...
...and Nothing Matches
This collection has been based around the process of getting ready and the routines that we cannot leave the house without. Gathering narratives and routines have inspired drawing and mark making. From spontaneously flicking paint with hair bobbles onto tights, to painting with an electric toothbrush; every intricate texture and line is examined. Building upon this vibrant colour palate can be compared to mixing and marbling paint with fine silk threads. Translating this into embroidery is created by hand with rigour and a strong sense of craftsmanship. This collection focuses on her own personal, disorganised and sometimes chaotic routine. This has been captured through the threads that appear to be tangled in a disorderly manner and vibrant colours that paint the pictures in her daydreams. Embroidering onto shift dresses makes this collection fun, playful and ready to wear.
Rachel
Webb Surface Botanics is an innovative façade collection formed through a material research project which aimed to establish a means of applying design to one specific material, ultimately giving it a possible new purpose. The material developed is DuPont™ Corian® Solid Surface, supplied by CD (UK) Ltd. Rachel began a unique, research project challenging the surface of DuPont™ Corian®. Corian® Solid Surface is a material formed of natural minerals and acrylic, this making it non-porous and resistant to bacteria and stains. Corian® is a practical and resilient surface which can be formed into various shapes and is used for products such as countertops, furniture and wall cladding. Rachel investigated the current market of Corian® worldwide and researched how design has previously been explored, this steered towards a potential future that Corian® could have with the skills and vision of a surface designer. Rachel questioned how techniques for implementing design could be adapted and tailored to work with the Corian® surface. Rachel wanted to explore design possibilities for the surface, to see if texture, design and effects could create a more subtle and less clinical appearance.
07703040963 rachele.webb@aol.co.uk www.rachelwebb.co.uk
Surface...
...Botanics
The Surface Botanics collection was created for urban facades or interior wall decoration which focuses on a theme of floral and naturalistic imagery, with the intention of injecting the perception of nature into city life thus improving community well-being, as proven by the Biophilia theory. This theme is achieved by using a range of tailored techniques, including a selection of laser effects, UV printing and dyeing. Early conceptual designs from the Corian® material research development were exhibited at the Surface Design Show (Business Design Centre, London ’14), Rachel along with this collection were also featured in Essential Kitchen & Bathroom Business Magazine (April Edition ’14) and The University of Huddersfield’s article ‘Making it Real’ (January ’14).
Samantha
Williamson Hand Crafted By Code is an interior collection of soft furnishings and upholstery, embroidered by machine and hand finished using a range of natural embroidery yarns. Computer generated code and randomly selected instructions are the core concept behind the drawings and design process for this collection. Each unique shape has been drawn, developed and translated into embroidery on a hand dyed mixed fibre fabric, using a combination of hand and digital drawn and stitched elements. A collection of linear pencil drawings gathered over the length of the project have been transformed into a range of furnishing designs and embroidered to create a collection of cushions and an upholstered chair. With a fresh eye for design, the designer brings a contemporary, unusual and exciting new concept to the bespoke market in the form of mid-high end products that are guaranteed to add a bounce of life to the standard every day interior. The designer is inspired by hybrid craft, and the combination of digital and hand crafted techniques, which play a vital role within the making of the final products for this collection. By exploring hybrid craft through her embroidery technique, Samantha is able to embrace modern technology of the 21st century while retaining her passion for traditional embroidery techniques and her desire to keep handcraft alive within the technological age.
07425163026 swilliamsonuk@gmail.com www.samanthaemily.co.uk
Hand Crafted...
...by Code
Each final design includes a combination of developed drawings which have been hand drawn or generated by a computer following the same set of coded instructions, portraying the difference within the hand and the digital in a drawing and design related format. The initial drawings are manipulated within Photoshop to create a finalised design before digitally embroidering the design to the fabric. Finally, the Samantha uses her hand embroidery technique to mirror the digital shapes within the design, resulting in an interesting surface, which explores the hybridity of stitch and the combination of the hand and the digital within textile craft and design.