A TEXTILES SCOTLAND PUBLICATION
KNITWEAR
TO DYE FOR BRIGHT DAYS AND
NEON NIGHTS A TWIST ON
TWEED
FASHION A/W 11/12
contents 3 4 6 12 14
Editor’s Note Introduction from Stewart Roxburgh. Our Top Ten Season must-haves from Scotland. Scottish Cashmere An essential wardrobe investment.
Essential Accessories Scotland is fashion’s one-stop-shop. Knitwear Scotland has couture all knitted up.
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Behind the Scenes Our first ever photoshoot in Scotland’s capital. Fashion Shoot Scottish garments styled to perfection. Prints + Neons Vibrancy and detail are a key element in collections. Feature: Tweeds 100 years dedicated to fashion. NYC Shoot Taking a bite out of the Big Apple.
contributors Anna Isola Crolla, Photographer Starting her career as photographer David Darling’s assistant, Anna’s main bodies of interest are portraits, fashion and advertising photography which she has been awarded for throughout her career. Working with designers like Ulrich Engler Couture, Shonagh K and Graeme Armour she is renowned in the business for capturing that image that every client craves for.
Chris Hunt, Stylist Chris Hunt began his career in journalism and PR for a number of high profile media, brands and agencies. In 2003 he moved to Glasgow before expanding and establishing the Genuine brand in 2005. A regular contributor on style in the media, including presenting for the BBC and STV, Chris is a well-known stylist and has worked with big names such as L’Oreal, VOGUE.COM, Harvey Nichols, AllSaints, Christopher Kane and Gok Wan.
Gerardo Jaconelli, Photographer With experience of photography from both sides of the lens, Gerardo uses his long career as a model on the catwalks of Milan, Miami and Chicago to influence his creative approach to capturing images. Regularly on assignments across the globe, Gerardo has photographed for Italian and Australian Elle magazines working with several leading stylists.
Rob McDougall, Photographer An award winning professional photographer specialising in creative photography, Rob is well known for capturing the picture in context. Understanding the needs of different media Rob has worked for VisitScotland, Taylor Wimpey, Historic Scotland and Weber Shandwick. He was the official photographer for Homecoming Scotland 2009.
Front cover: Jessica wears William Chambers hat and Di Gilpin shrug. Taken on location at Edinburgh College of Art’s Evolution House by photographer Anna Isola Crolla. Main photoshoot make-up and hair by Beverly McColgan. Styling for the New York photoshoot courtesy of Janis Sue Smith.
EDITOR’S NOTE | 3
editor’s note The burgeoning industry in Scotland shows no signs of disappearing off the world stage any time soon. Bursting with creative talent, inspiring design and the ability to fuse centuries old techniques to create modern day catwalk classics, Scotland delivers for the fashion industry far and wide. In this, our first ever edition of – fashion, a Textiles Scotland publication, we will give you a snapshot of what you can expect for Autumn/Winter 2011/12 from our wealth of talent. We hope our reputation precedes us, secretly we confidently know it does. Coming to Scotland for any creation be it fabric, design or the finished article, in essence guarantees a quality which is globally recognised. Not unscathed by recent economic pressures, and frankly few have escaped across the globe, we remain a key player in the Scottish economy and we intend it to remain that way.
We know to maintain our market leader status means working together, and we make a conscious effort to do this. Collaborations between young and old, established and new, keeps the industry fresh, interesting and enticing to buyers. Why would we change the habits of a lifetime? Scots are renowned for an undying patriotic love for everything Scottish and you will find a piece of that passion in every product that leaves our land. From the classics made with tweed, cashmere and wool to contemporary couture using these fabrics and more, the designers and design houses of Scotland collectively provide an eclectic mix of forward thinking fashion. Read, digest, enjoy and explore all we have to offer, from Scotland with love.
Stewart Roxburgh, Editor Stewart is a Senior Executive, National Textiles Team, Scottish Enterprise.
4 | OUR TOP TEN
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Knickers by Strumpet & Pink.
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Glenisla Kilt using Calzeat fabric.
Underwear Fit for Outerwear
Not content with leading the way in the perfect outer garments Scottish textiles firms are making waves in the underwear markets too. From jewelencrusted bodies to luxury knitted underwear, which can be described as ‘art’, the industry is dressing the world from the inside out.
A ‘Kool’ Kilt The trouser alternative is synonymous with the Scots. From formal attire to the epitome of ‘kool’, the kilt is a firm favourite for men about town in Scotland and beyond. With an established celebrity following, the kilt is continually evolved by Scottish designers and manufactures year-on-year.
our top ten… Hats by Joyce Paton.
Statement Headwear
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Scotland boasts some of the most creative milliners in the UK. From the classic to contemporary, designers draw on influences such as tweed, the natural Scottish countryside and urban city culture to create stunning pieces of headwear.
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Tights by Bebaroque.
Chunky Knits There is no better place to come for that perfect woollen garment than Scotland. Historically wool has been a staple of the fashion industry here and will undoubtedly remain so. Home to hundreds of hand knitters and specialists creating catwalk pieces adorned the world over, a Scottish knit must take pride of place in every wardrobe.
Perfect Prints Whether you like the bright and bold or the subtle and traditional, Scottish designers use an eclectic mix of prints throughout collections. Adding that extra special je ne sais quoi to couture designs, an array of prints can be found in Scotland.
five Midnight chunky coat and pocket scarf by Angela Cassidy.
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OUR TOP TEN | 5
Winter Warm Socks Harris Tweed boots by Mandarina
Harris Tweed With a Twist
As the colder weather descends, everyone needs to keep cosy from the feet up and there is no better way than with a pair of socks. Whether you opt for cashmere or chunky wool knit, you are guaranteed warmth from Scotland with love.
Happy Birthday to you! As it celebrates 100 years, the luxury fabric has never fallen off the fashion fraternity’s radar. Optimising quality in every square inch the ‘champagne of fabrics’ always deserves a toast and continues to be the centre of attention across the globe.
Socks by House of Cheviot.
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With so much to choose from here is a snapshot of the ten must-haves from Scotland this Autumn/Winter... Luxury Scarves
Scarves by Eribé.
eight Any cashmere connoisseur recognises the Made in Scotland mark. Scottish cashmere has a rich heritage and continues to be a force to be reckoned with in world markets. From traditional pieces to unique catwalk collaborations, it is a musthave for any fashionista.
Hawick Cashmere.
‘Be Seen’ Brights
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Love it or loathe it bright is back. The use of neons and vibrant colours has crept in to many collections this year and the trend continues in to the Autumn/Winter lines. Many Scottish designers and manufactures have embraced the trend offering customers combinations of brightness to suit all tastes.
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Cosy Cashmere
Legwarmers, gloves and hats by Eribé.
There is nothing like a good scarf nestling around your neck when the chill wind blows. Whether you opt for soft velvety cashmere or the snugness of real wool, a scarf from Scotland is a necessity.
6 | CASHMERE
100% Cashmere diagonal stripe jumper and cashmere and silk mix scarf from Johnstons of Elgin. Photograph by Oliver Pearce.
scottish
welcome to the world of
CASHMERE | 7
It is little wonder that this soft, luxury fibre routinely graces the world’s leading catwalks and boutiques, offering elegance and comfort while remaining fashion-forward – a must-have wardrobe investment. Johnstons of Elgin has been synonmous with quality, Scottish-made cashmere for many years and has paved the way for many other Scottish companies to follow in its footsteps. Independently run since 1797, its beautifully crafted products speak for themselves. Classic, yet contemporary, flavours form the basis of the collection, gaining it a deserved reputation and brand loyalty. Johnstons is the UK’s last remaining vertical woollen mill; the only mill still to carry out all processes from raw fibre to finished garment within the one site. With a diverse customer base, from international and domestic, tourists to land-owners and even royalty, the highly successful firm has embraced the everchanging face of fashion, now stocked by the likes of Harrods. Garments include the tweed aviator, blazer, and riding style jackets, in addition to cutting-edge winter warmers in the shape of cable wrist warmers, boot socks and snoods; each adding a touch of opulence to any cosy ensemble.
Hawick Cashmere.
Johnstons’ focus for Autumn/Winter 2011/12 is on functional fashion; the season of covetable, but very much wearable, pieces. Camel continues its comeback, flirting with cognac, toffee, nutmeg, bitter chocolate and espresso shades; each complemented by cream, winter white and navy blue. The camel shades are ideally matched with checks, plaids and tweeds, as well as emerging feminine tones of pink, salmon and old rose with a hint of violet and fuchsia.
cashmere
8 | CASHMERE
Section of cashmere scarves by Begg Scotland.
Cashmere has proved itself in the style stakes time and time again Meanwhile, the men’s collection offers smart yet casual. Shawl collar cardigans and round neck sweaters are layered underneath coats and jackets for a relaxed look. Silhouettes are classic and refined but attention to detail is important to keep the look modern and relevant with suede details and contrasting. Camel is currently the ruler of knitwear – a sophisticated, classic colour taking on a modern edge when teamed and layered with bitter chocolate, caramel, blonde and putty tones. Begg Scotland is another brand continuing to shine through cashmere. Its focus is pure cashmere scarves, shawls, throws and stoles in more than 30 ranges and available in a limitless range of colours. Plains, woven jacquards and printed patterns are each created to flatter, caress and seduce. Begg adds its own personal touch to the indulgent creations, brushing only with natural teasels to give the delicate fabric its characteristic ripple.
Also flying the Scottish textiles flag is former Heriot-Watt University and Cardonald College textiles student, Claire McInally, who has created pieces that bear testament to her love of the geometry and angular shapes of modern architectural structures – a look which caught the eye of buyers from UK high street fashion chain Oasis at the New Designers exhibition in London, driving them to buy them up and incorporate into its Designer Collective. Her collection includes limited edition 100 per cent silk dresses and footwear in classy neutral shades, celebrating her appreciation of structure. Being attracted to symmetry, she has been able to incorporate this into different folding and pleating techniques, printing and fabrics. Her scarves and dresses successfully incorporate delicate pleats and folds within the fabric itself which creates a 3D effect in the print while the fabric retains a delicate and feminine feel.
CASHMERE | 9
Claire McInally grey cashmere and leather dress.
As part of this year’s annual Dressed to Kilt event in New York, Claire McInally produced a glamorous evening gown using cashmere from Begg Scotland and two other pieces using fabric from Johnstons, describing the opportunity as ‘a dream come true’. Hawick is a place known for its quality knitwear production, often dubbed ‘the home of cashmere’ because of the number of brands which have emerged from the area. Privately owned Hawick Cashmere has over a century of experience. The Hawick Hosiery Company was founded in 1874 and is still, today, based in the original 19th century mill in Hawick. In the late 20th century, electronic knitting machine technology emerged to radically change design capabilities. Previously, designs could only be produced by hand. Hawick Cashmere is recognised within the industry as having led the way in employing and improving this new technology, while retaining the traditional skills. The result has been the development of the Seamless Garment, an innovation which has had as big an impact on the production of high quality knitwear as the first knitting frames did over a century ago. As one of the founding members of the Scottish Cashmere Club, Hawick Cashmere has been a driving force behind the establishment of the Cashmere Made in Scotland® trade mark and the exacting quality controls that it represents.
10 | CASHMERE
As well as being noted for its warmth, light weight and softness, cashmere is durable and will last for years if treated with care. It is versatile, blending well with other fibres including silk and cotton, much to the liking of vintage lingerie line Strumpet and Pink. Its fabulously over-the-top array of ruffled corsettes and peek-a-boo styles use silk and cashmere to depict the designer’s playful and fluffy, but comfortable, nature. The quirky collection adopts a style and attention to detail rarely seen in today’s world of factory manufactured mass production. From creamy whites and pinks to black and shades of blue, Strumpet and Pink is a must-see for any underwear lover.
Cashmere jumper collection by Jaggy Nettle.
Jaggy Nettle, another luxury company to emerge from Scotland’s impressive pool of textile talent, is based in the Borders and have produced baby soft cashmere sweaters and tweed boots. The Harris Tweed Hi Tops are hand finished and feature their signature orange leather lining. This unisex offering is narrowly cut to create a more stylish shape. Last year saw them reveal a range of exclusive hand printed Scottish cashmere jumpers inspired by classic book covers at Textile Scotland’s Rediscovered showcase in London. The collection included authors from selected titles including Samuel Beckett’s ‘Play’ as well as Sylvia Plath’s ‘The Bell Jar’.
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And what’s exciting is that Scotland is set to remain a market leader
Hawick Cashmere Harmony dress, shown in Brume.
The Scotland Redicovered event, facilitated by Scottish Enterprise, was developed out of an industry requirement to improve its link with the London and South East markets, demonstrating the fabulously diverse range of traditional and contemporary textiles on offer in Scotland. Former supermodel, Claudia Schiffer, is another who is flirting with the fashion world as a result of her love for the luxurious. This year’s Paris Fashion Week was the platform for the launch of her own-label cashmere range. The former face of Chanel has delved into effortless chic in the shape of granddad jumpers, perfectly matched with leggings, tube dresses and knit capes this Autumn/ Winter. A neutral palette includes charcoal, beige and midnight blue.
Hawick Cashmere Voltaire shawl collar cardigan, shown in Tyrol/Porcupine.
Cashmere has proved itself in the style stakes time and time again. From its softness and warmth to sheer durability, it has been incorporated into timeless fashion pieces across the world. To say it has a faithful following is an understatement. And what’s exciting is that Scotland is set to remain a market leader with emerging designers such as Claire McInally, Jaggy Nettle and Strumpet and Pink taking the fibre to a new level, conjuring up eclectic, ‘out of the box’ creations sure to be adored by the masses. Photography by Christian Ammann.
12 | ACCESSORIES
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acces essential
The Scottish textile industry is just as famous now for unique accessories as it is for clothing – providing a one-stop-shop for top-to-toe couture. Exciting creations from milliners such as Joyce Paton, Pea Cooper and William Chambers to shoes from up-and-coming designer Emily Lamb to the all important hosiery by celeb favourite Bebaroque. This is undoubtedly one of the most exciting sectors in Scottish textiles. Of course we cannot forget one of Scotland’s most historically important outerwear providers – Mackintosh – which ensure the ‘return of the mac’ every season.
ACCESSORIES | 13
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1. Hats by Pea Cooper Millinery. 2. Tights by Bebaroque. 3. Jackets by Mackintosh. 4. Shoes by Emily Lamb. 5. Hats by William Chambers. 6. Shoes by Emily Lamb. 7. Hats by Joyce Paton.
14 | KNITWEAR
Throughout 2011’s various Fashion Weeks across the globe, key events for any fashionista’s calendar, knitwear dominated both the catwalks and imaginations of many designers. Milan Fashion Week, recognised for making future trends easy to understand, saw Missoni champion the diversity of its chunky knitwear in nudes and bright purple by teaming pieces up with dreamy maxi dresses. Meanwhile, Mary Katrantzou went as far as reinventing her renowned prints for London’s event – an effort she admitted gave the knitters in Italy a nightmare but proved there are still new, glamorous creations to be had when knitting with a certain skill, dynamism and patience; a complex garment typically takes nearly 100 hours to create.
The UK has embraced handcrafting since the 1400s and established designers, including Di Gilpin, Bill Baber and Jo Storie, to name but a few, are continuing to set the world alight with their individual take on intricate knit couture. One design house based in the Scottish Borders, Hawick Knitwear, announced in its 2010/11 annual accounts that it had experienced a 20 per cent increase in turnover, to £8 million a year. The knitwear specialist has increased its production to 9,500 sweaters each week, from around 7,500 in 2010, to keep up with demand, selling to Sweden, Finland, Ireland, Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Italy and Spain, the US, Canada, Mexico, and Japan.
scotland has couture
KNITWEAR | 15
‘Willow’ knickers by Strumpet & Pink.
Knitwear – love or leave? With new knitwear designers emerging from every corner of the fashion world, this movement is undoubtedly one surrounded by love and is here to stay.
16 | KNITWEAR
On the catwalk at this year’s LFW, the luxurious Pringle of Scotland’s creative director Clare Wright Keller set the bar for Autumn/Winter 2011/12 trends, blending the past with the present for her traditional knitwear techniques and creative technology. She may have listed ‘attic chic, multi-mix jacquards and early 1970s silhouettes’ as her inspiration, but there was a definite feeling of folk craft coming through from the heavily patterned wool knits. She successfully played on mixing and matching different patterns and weights of knit on garments such as blanket wrap capes, ponchos, shift dresses and wrap-around fringed skirts, each finished off with tied and twisted tassels along hemlines. Long, straight, high necked over-coats in wool or tweed, some with fur, flared tweed trousers and laser cut leather trimmings appeared in muted fall shades of silver grey, rust, burgundy and contrasted with a flash of teal. This beautiful collection was perfectly suited to Pringle’s face, Tilda Swinton, who accompanied American Vogue’s Hamish Bowles in the front row.
Scarves by ROAM.
Pringle has specialised in manufacturing quality, sought-after knitwear for over 195 years, having started off as a hosiery and underwear brand. It has mastered the art of mass appeal, featuring in the diverse and innovative wardrobes of fashion lovers and celebrities including David Beckham and Nicole Kidman; even going as far as making those in warm climates yearn for that chilly day. Knit couture is in such high demand that fashion forward-thinking Scots including Eribé and Hillary Rohde frequently have to regrettably say no to orders coming in from global designers. Based in Edinburgh, Rosie Eribé counts the likes of Burberry, Prada and Liberty of London as key clients who appreciate her passion to create magic from a knit. All of Pringle’s timeless cable knit collection is created by this highly successful hand-made brand.
Harlequin jumper from Hawick Knitwear’s Ladies Merino Collection.
Autumn/Winter 11/12 is full of continued promise for the knitwear world if the Fashion Weeks are anything to go by – from vibrant, chunky knits to precise detailing requiring years of practice, it is the continued must-have of the season and beyond.
The super chunky knitwear look is one to consider
KNITWEAR | 17
Fair Isle knitwear is a recurring ‘in vogue’ feature which adorned London’s showcase in particular. The fashion conscious among us can appreciate the concept that the recession has resulted in an increased hunger for garments that look lasting, faithful and homemade; like we could continue to select them from our exquisite wardrobes for a couple of years rather than bin bagging after a season. The Americans have dubbed French designer Sonia Rykiel ‘The Queen of Knitwear’ since the 1960s and her look can be described simply as stripes and knitwear – a key look as we go into Autumn. Her bold and unforgettable approach attracted much attention at Paris Fashion Week and has earned her ambassadors such as Madonna and Michelle Obama. In 1980 she was voted one of the world’s 10 most elegant women and continues to prove, today, that knitwear can fit elegantly within any trend. Exaggerating her signature clean lines and modern silhouettes, Stella McCartney’s Autumn collection, also previewed in Paris, is playful with knits – picture graphic print meets bold patterns as tweeds, layered knitwear and masculine tailoring takes centre stage. Textures are also important with an array of silk, wool, corduroy, grossgrain and lace. John Galliano also saw the ever serious capital of fashion as an opportunity to showcase men’s leggings and knitwear as he prepared onlookers for the much anticipated wrap up season. This year is no exception when it comes to designers arming us with comfortable, warm textures and designs, many of whom hail from Scotland. The super chunky knitwear look is one to consider, offering us the chance to sport the most fabulous of wools as well as fur garments to look pretty but cosy with throughout the whole season. The beauty of it is that most have nostalgic knits lurking in their wardrobes already, so this needn’t even be a trend that will cost. And even better, this is not a trend restricted to females as a result of knitwear’s true versatility. Jo Storie ‘navaho’ cardigan available in undyed natural sheep breed colours. Chunky weight knit.
18 | BEHIND THE SCENES
The ‘mood board’ and scene ! sequence – essential planning
Not your average make-up kit!
It will be a long day and that hair needs to stay in place!
A final few tweaks to the clothes...
Briefing the modelscrubeciaforl.e the shoot begins is
scenes behind the
Our first edition, the first photoshoot – the pressure was on!
BEHIND THE SCENES | 19
Even the carpet gets a makeover!
Priority No. 1 uct must be returned intact –soallprprecod autions are needed!
And a last-minute retouch of hair and make-up...
Encapsulating the essence, the style, the quality and the luxurious undertone of the Scottish fashion industry was no mean feat. Armed with an expert crew and product from across the country, we set about giving you a taste, just enough to tickle the tastebuds of what the fashion industry here can offer.
And the shot is in the can, one down, many to go! Working with such creatively produced garments and an artistic, professional team produced some stunning results, check out the next ten pages, the proof is on the page‌
20 | MAGAZINE PHOTOSHOOT
Freddie wears: Walker Slater tweed suit with a Jaggy Nettle green and black literature-inspired cashmere jumper and Jaggy Nettle cream Harris Tweed shoe boots.
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Jessica wears: Henrietta Ludgate grey studded suede jacket with a Strumpet and Pink burgundy sleeveless body. Freddie wears: Walker Slater leather and tweed shoes, burgundy tie and cream shirt with a Harris Tweed Hebrides two-piece black suit and cufinks by Howie Nicholsby at 21st Century Kilts.
22 | MAGAZINE PHOTOSHOOT
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Jessica wears: Bebaroque sheer mesh and lace black bodysuit, with a Di Gilpin long cream hand-crochet knit cardigan and Emily Lamb black leather and patent shoes. Freddie wears: Johnstons of Elgin brown cashmere v-neck jumper with Jaggy Nettle blue denim jeans and Versace black wellington-style boots.
24 | MAGAZINE PHOTOSHOOT
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Freddie wears: Glenisla Kilts cream, blue and denim kilt, made with Calzeat fabric with a navy trench jacket from Mackintosh, khaki knitted cable socks from House of Cheviot, Jaggy Nettle grey and inner orange Harris Tweed trainers accessorised with an Armani navy top and a limited edition Rolex watch.
26 | MAGAZINE PHOTOSHOOT
Jessica wears: A Johnstons of Elgin suede trim, camel coloured cape with burnt orange House of Cheviot socks.
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28 | MAGAZINE PHOTOSHOOT
Freddie wears: Walker Slater Tweed Suit with Jaggy Nettle green and black cashmere jumper and Jaggy Nettle Harris Tweed cream shoe boots. Jessica wears: Claire McInally grey cashmere and leather bodycon dress, cream and black striped Mackintosh trench coat with Emily Lamb yellow leather court shoes.
MAGAZINE PHOTOSHOOT | 29
Jessica wears: Youngjoo Yoo cream and black full length jumpsuit with earrings from Brazen Jewellery.
30 | PRINTS + NEONS
Shift dress from ten30’s Ukranian Girl collection.
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prints neons The use of graphical prints is nothing new in the fashion world. However as is true to form the Scottish fashion industry has added its own unique twist to printed couture. Hot new designers are stamping their signature approach on collections which sets them apart from the rest. From Holly Fulton’s critically acclaimed Autumn/Winter 11 collection, which is a mesmerising collection of textured designs with trance-enhancing graphics to Louise Gray who is expert in using embroidering and printed techniques. And the talent just keeps coming. ten30’s latest collection is based on a fictional character ‘Abigail Teliha’ who has inspired its Ukrainian and Persian-style influenced prints. With an intrigue of Ukrainian pysanka, European ballet and 90s Versace, the new range combines the most interesting features from all three to create a contemporary ready-to-wear collection.
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Consisting of luxurious silk shift dresses, teamed with street style trousers and pure wool boleros, all garments are printed and hand made in Scotland. Iona Crawford is another Scot who uses personal influences to create unique prints. Acclaimed for couture gowns and standout pieces, Iona is a bona fide artist and takes the canvas to the catwalk. Her visionary talent runs through her collections like it was destined for nowhere else. Continuing to be inspired by her surroundings in the Stirlingshire countryside her latest collection is wildlife-themed bringing a whole new meaning to the term ‘country chic’. And it is not just the new talent embracing print in varying forms. Many of the mills and manufacturers in Scotland continue to deliver interesting designs and varied fabrics to the world market.
The Farquhar Dress by Iona Crawford. Photographed by David Stanton.
32 | PRINTS & NEONS
Corset and headpiece designed by Chris Clyne and woven by Dovecot Studios’ Master Weaver Naomi Robertson.
Bright and beautiful is a claim many Scottish designers and manufacturers can make. Whether it is underwear, outerwear or headwear, the Scots can make it work. Hosier specialists Bebaroque continue to dazzle customers with vibrant pieces from stockings to tights to bodysuits. And with an added sparkle of crystals and sequencing on many pieces they continue to deliver show-stopping pieces.
Bebaroque Body Suit.
Morag MacPherson Kimono.
With a graphic design background Morag MacPherson brings a new digital technology to textiles. A passion for typography, ďŹ ne art and photography she has re-invented herself as a textile artist and produced some visually stunning pieces over the years. Obsessed with colour, she adds a unique take on shape and form to produce high fashion pieces.
PRINTS & NEONS | 33
Taking stunning block colour to the max is now synonymous with Henrietta Ludgate, recent recipient of Young Designer of the Year 2011 at the Scottish Fashion Awards. Renowned in the fashion world for her air for structural design sprinkled with a true sense of Scottish heritage, Henrietta leads with stand-out collections. With an artisanal approach, the minimalist silhouette of her creations is always elegant yet distinctive and modern.
Henrietta Ludgate Neon Pink Dress at Times Square.
34 | TWEEDS
Rachel wears Harris Tweed and Scottish Wool Dress with Vintage Japanese Kimono Bird detail by Judy R Clark. Photograph by Gerardo Jaconelli, taken on location at Urban OutďŹ tters, Glasgow.
100 years
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As the Harris Tweed Orb celebrates its centenary we explore why this iconic fabric has continued to be a staple of couture the world over. This year marks an important milestone for the distinguished Harris Tweed brand – 100 years since the luxury handwoven cloth’s inception by Hebridean craftsmen. Since then, the company’s instantly recognisable style has been embraced, capturing the imagination of iconic designers and fashionistas around the world. Harris Tweed has successfully remained at the forefront of Scottish textiles; often referred to as the champagne of fabrics at the heart of Scottish island culture. Cutting edge collaborations with celebrated designers have meant the cloth’s versatility and success has been taken beyond the reaches of the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. To celebrate the centenary of the “Orb” trademark, which certifies Harris Tweed as the genuine article, an exclusive fashion show was recently staged in Stornoway. Key UK designers, including the prestigious Vivienne Westwood, Henry Holland and Deryck Walker, showcased pieces directly influenced by the birthday brand and their individual passion for their own twist on the deep-rooted and enviable yarn.
Donald John MacKay at his loom.
Emerging Glasgow-based womenswear label Obscure Couture designed a Harris Tweed and Kobe Leather Playsuit for the show, bringing the fabric to life with their take on current trends. The cutting edge piece has since attracted much attention and adoration from the style-conscious among us. The event also saw Lewis-based textile artist, Alison MacLeod, join forces with Scottish designer Judy R. Clark to produce a selection of frock coats to open the show. Their pieces then jetted off to the catwalks in New York as they secured a showcase at the established Dressed to Kilt event, placing the Scottish textiles market once again on the international stage.
dedicated to fashion
36 | TWEEDS
As the saying goes, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery; something which Harris Tweed can identify with. The tweed dates back to 1846 when Lady Dunmore, who was the widow of the late Earl of Dunmore, approached Harris Tweed weavers to create the Murray tartan. Pleased with the creation, she began marketing the collection to her wealthy friends south of the border. As a result, the famous Harris Tweed industry was born and business boomed. Naturally, others tried to replicate the product, prompting an historic stand against imposters. The Harris Tweed Association Limited was born in 1909 with a duty to protect the use of the name ‘Harris Tweed’ from inferior imitations and to carry out the important role of enforcing the world’s oldest trade mark – the ‘Orb’ – and the first cloth was then stamped in 1911. Further success for the textile industry as a whole saw the introduction of an Act of Parliament in 1993 which further protected product authenticity.
Harris Tweed Shoe Boots by Jaggy Nettle and Nike.
With this Act also came a new governing body, the Harris Tweed Authority, which was established to continue the work of the Association, as well as new responsibilities such as continuing the success of the industry for the future. As a direct result, Harris Tweed has proved a key player in the drive to highlight the Scottish textiles market as one of the best in the world. Fashion collaborations with Harris Tweed have not been restricted to the British Isles. American sportswear manufacturer Nike masterminded a training shoe design featuring extensive use of the tweed in 2004, putting the Scottish island community at the pinnacle of youth fashion. The world leader in athletic apparel was looking for innovative ways to refresh The Terminator trainer, a basketball shoe dating back to the 1980s, and ordered nearly 10,000 metres of cloth to create the retro look – a welcome boost for the profile and economy of Scottish textiles.
A Harris Tweed product is for life
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Harris Tweed has proved a key player
Hat and Skirt by Joyce Paton. Bag by Juliana Lawson all for Harris Tweed Hebrides.
Weaver Donald John Mackay was unable to cope with the demand on his own which prompted him to rely on the help of a nearby mill to complete the firm’s large order. The quirky and popular take on sports footwear, bearing both firms’ labels, can now be seen for sale as collectibles, cementing the popularity and achievements of this partnership which has rejuvenated the Harris Tweed empire and enthusiasm towards it. Following Harris Tweed’s success around the globe, the trademark has undoubtedly
benefitted from featuring within popular culture – with iconic figures papped in tweed jackets. This has undoubtedly prompted a surge in the popularity of the yarn within the younger market, a step forward from the likes of Robert Langdon in The Da Vinci Code and Angels and Demons and fictional detective Miss Marple. These high profile references ensure a new twist on the old cloth while drawing attention to the quality and complex vibrancy, often lacking in other fabrics.
38 | TWEEDS
Blythswood Square Hotel, Glasgow; cinema room with a colourul mix of Harris Tweed Hebrides chair covers.
You would be forgiven for thinking Harris Tweed’s presence stops at clothing, jackets in particular, but it is far more varied than that. In addition to featuring on the back cover of singer and actor David Bowie’s album Hunky Dory and the QE2, Harris Tweed recently provided 9,000 square metres of fabric in a range of colours for use on bespoke luxury furnishings throughout one of Glasgow’s newest five star boutique hotels – Blythswood Square. The material has also been incorporated into the gadget world, forming the basis of handcrafted iPad and laptop sleeves and iPhone pouches, each extending the Tweed appeal to today’s ever-changing luxury living trends. To this day, the authority continues to develop the Harris Tweed industry as a means of livelihood for those who live in the Outer Hebrides. Three mills produce the yarn which is then sent out to the weaver’s homes in the area for hand weaving. This is a legal requirement as the Act states the fabric has to be hand-woven at the weaver’s home on single or double width looms, producing cloth in a variety of weights.
The cloth is then returned to the respective mill and completed prior to being stamped with the Orb before travelling to customers spanning the globe. The industry relies heavily upon the intricate skills of almost 200 people, half of whom are weavers based at home and this is increasing. The industry continues to stand the test of time, much like the fabric itself with the definition of the Orb: “Harris Tweed meant a tweed, hand-spun, handwoven and dyed by the crofters and cottars in the Outer Hebrides”, as true today as it was 100 years ago. As to what we can expect from Harris Tweed during the next 100 years, new and emerging markets will likely be key factors. It is, after all, one of the most cherished and important parts of Scotland’s national heritage, and all involved will safeguard the industry, ensuring it is developed and maintained for generations to come. A Harris Tweed product is for life because of the sheer skill and quality of material involved and it is not going anywhere, except into the hands and hearts of those around the world.
KOOL KILTS | 39
kool
kilts
Dating back to the 16th century, Scotland famously brought the world the ‘kilt’ and this traditional attire for the ‘menfolk’ continues to be a key piece of formal dress the world over. But, the humble kilt has come a long way from its Braveheart days and now, with edgy designs and unique collaborations, the fashion statement kilt is a must-have item for both boys and girls.
Glenisla Kilt using Calzeat fabric.
Slanj.
21st CENTURY KILTS in action.
Kiltpin.
With a host of kilt makers residing in Scotland there is an array of choice for customers. Many keep pushing the boundaries which undoubtedly keeps kilts firmly in fashion. From companies such as Slanj Kilts and Kiltpin, providing everything from kilts to sporrans to those working with designers putting the kilt on the catwalk. A leading name in the trouser alternative is 21st CENTURY KILTS. It has taken kilt making to new levels with collections ranging from leather, gold and denim to camouflage and pinstripe – providing a realistic alternative to the mediocre trousers. With a keen celebrity following the company has a worldwide following with new collections hotly anticipated. Glenisla Kilts continues to produce stunning collections year-on-year, most recently working with established fabric house Calzeat to dress celebrities at the Dressed to Kilt event in New York. Producing quality garments for over 30 years, its kilts are tried and tested by the Ministry of Defence as being ‘fit for purpose’, and you can’t argue with that stamp of approval!
40 | NYC SHOOT
Fernanda and Amy wear Hayley Scanlan studded leather jacket hand-painted and Henrietta Ludgate grey studded suede jacket.
A-listers Brushing shoulders with the A-listers, Scottish textiles took New York by storm for the annual red carpet Dressed to Kilt event, now in its ninth year. This time the catwalk not only boasted a wealth of talented seasoned professionals, but was also a first showing for some new kids on the block who added their own, contemporary dimension to the show.
We thought the ‘Big Apple’ could handle a bit of ‘tartaning’ up before the main event itself in the iconic Hammerstein Ballroom, so we took to the streets with some of the glamourous ensembles to give New Yorkers a sneak preview of the Scottish creations the celebs would be wearing on the catwalk.
NYC SHOOT | 41
Micha wears: Specially commissioned cashmere lambswool fabric for Lord Willy’s by Holland and Sherry. Claire McInally grey cashmere and leather dress, taken at Brooklyn Bridge
42 | NYC SHOOT
NYC SHOOT | 43
Micha wears: Harris Tweed Hebrides Jacket for Folk, cashmere and Harris Tweed shoes by Jaggy Nettle, taken at Jackie Onassis Reservoir in Central Park.
44 | NYC SHOOT
NYC SHOOT | 45
Fernanda wears: Di Gilpin long cream hand-crochet knit cardigan, taken at Brooklyn Bridge.
46 | NYC SHOOT
Amy wears: Harris Tweed Centenary frock coat and lace dress by Judy R. Clark. Hat by Fabhatrix for Judy R. Clark. Henrietta Ludgate Neon pink dress at Times Square
STOCKISTS | 47
I
A
Iona Crawford
+44 (0)7989 235537, www.angelacassidydesign.com
+44 (0)7816 504926, www.ionacrawford.com
B
J
find us
Angela Cassidy
Bebaroque
Jaggy Nettle
+44 (0)131 661 2332, www.bebaroque.co.uk
+44 (0)7850 342892, www.jaggynettle.com
Begg Scotland
Jo Storie
+44 (0)1292 267615, www.beggscotland.com
+44 (0)1289 309500, www.jostorie.com
Bill Baber
Johnstons of Elgin
+44 (0)131 225 3249, www.billbaber.com
+44 (0)1343 554099, www.johnstonscashmere.com
Brazen Studios
Joyce Paton
+44 (0)141 552 4551, www.brazenstudios.co.uk
+44 (0)7879 407336, www.joycepaton.com
C
Judy R. Clark
Calzeat +44 (0)1899 309222, www.calzeat.com
K
Chris Clyne
Kiltpin
+44 (0)131 554 3686, www.chrisclyne.co.uk
+44 (0)1324 624588, www.kiltpin.co.uk
Claire McInally +44 (0)7584 674580, www.clairemcinally.co.uk
M
D
+44 (0)20 7493 4678, www.mackintosh-uk.net
+44 (0)7933 658642, www.judyrclark.com
Mackintosh
Di Gilpin
Mandarina
+44 (0)1334 840431, www.digilpin.com
+44 (0)1307 819488, www.mandarinashoes.com
Donald John Mackay
Morag MacPherson
Luskentyre Harris Tweed Company +44 (0)1859 550261
+44 (0)7734 421029, www.moragmacpherson.com
Dovecot Studios
O
+44 (0)131 555 3660, www.dovecotstudios.com
Obscure Couture +44 (0)141 1234567, www.obscure-couture.com
E Emily Lamb
P
+44 (0)141 644 2556, www.emilylambshoes.com
Pea Cooper Millinery
Eribé
+44 (0)7845 755637, www.peacoopermillinery.com
+44 (0)1896 755540, www.eribe.co.uk
Pringle of Scotland +44 (0)1450 360200, www.pringlescotland.com
F Fabhatrix
R
+44 (0)131 225 9222, www.fabhatrix.com
Roam +44 (0)1896 758 604, www.studioroam.com
G Glenisla Kilts Ltd
S
+44 (0)1698 254579, www.glenislakilts.co.uk
Strumpet and Pink +44 (0)131 661 3061, www.strumpetandpink.com
H
Slanj
Harris Tweed Hebrides
+44 (0)141 248 7770, www.slanjkilts.com
+44 (0)1851 702862, www.harristweedhebrides.com
Hawick Cashmere
T
+44 (0)1450 372510, www.hawickcashmere.com
ten30
Hawick Knitwear
+44 (0)7920 096553, www.ten30.co.uk
+44 (0)1450 363100, www.hawickknitwear.com
21st CENTURY KILTS
Hayley Scanlan
+44 (0)131 220 9450, www.21stcenturykilts.com
+44 (0)7500 595794, www.hayleyscanlan.blogspot.com
W
Henrietta Ludgate +44 (0)141 416 4666, www.henriettaludgate.com
Hillary Rohde +44 (0)131 225 3948, www.hillaryrohde.com
Walker Slater +44 (0)131 220 2636, www.walkerslater.com
William Chambers
Holland and Sherry
+44 (0)7815 096367, www.williamchambers.co.uk
+44 (0)1721 720101, www.hollandandsherry.com
Y
Holly Fulton +44 (0) 20 7268 6122, www.hollyfulton.com
House of Cheviot
Youngjoo Yoo +44 (0)7501 044510, www.saatchionline.com/profile/254410
+44 (0)1450 378670, www.houseofcheviot.com
A special thanks to Edinburgh College of Art (www.eca.co.uk, +44 (0)131 221 6000) for use of Evolution House in Edinburgh for our main photoshoot and to The Point Hotel, Bread Street, Edinburgh (www.pointhoteledinburgh.co.uk, +44(0)131 221 5555) for the preparation area and coffee. Design and editorial by
Glasgow (www.webershandwick.co.uk, +44 (0)141 333 0557)
(m ud) n. 1. mode, fashion, style 2. manners, good breeding 3. respect, honour 4. good morals