Unveiling industry best practices
Apparel Accessories & Fashion N ove m be r 201 8
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 97 to 108
Getting rid of “Hidden Factory�
Scenario of African fashion industry
TWELVE for trendy and gorgeous dresses in winter
Unveiling industry best practices Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
A p p a r e l To d a y - E d i t o r i a l
Getting rid of “Hidden Factory” Rasel Ahmed Likhon, Project coordinator, EPIC Group The Hidden Factory is a term that refers to non value-added unnecessary activities in an operation or activites out of standard operating procedure (SOP). It reduces the quality or efficiency of a manufacturing operation or business process, but are not initially known to managers or others seeking to improve the process. The Hidden Factory is where the largest amount of money, time and resources are spent that are considered as ‘waste’. The Hidden Factory coexists with the actual, visual factory. What is a Process? A process is a systematic activity comprising of smaller activities that culminate in an outcome (end product). A process can take up time, space, and resources. Categories of Process 1. Value-added: This step in the process adds form, function, and value to the end product and for the customer. 2. Non-value added but necessary: This step does not add value but is a necessary step in the final value-added product. 3. Non-value added: This step does not add form, function, or assist in the finished goods manufacturing of the product. (2.) & (3.) naturally create waste, which causes ‘Hidden Factory’. Types of waste that can contribute to ‘Hidden Factory’ i. Over-Production: Producing more than is needed, faster than needed or before needed. ii. Wait-time: The Idle time that occurs when co-dependent events are not synchronized. iii. Transportation: Any material movement that does not directly
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QUALITY
REJECTS WARRANTY LONG CYCLE TIME LONG SALES LOST CUSTOMER LOYALTY
WASTE
HIDDEN FACTORY
support immediate production.
.
Effects of Hidden Factory • I n 1977, the quality guru ‘Armand Feigenbaum’ estimated the endeavor within the hidden factory might be 15% to 40% effort of the total company. •R educe the profitability of the company. • I mpact on the competitiveness of the company. • I mpact ability to satisfy the Customers. •P revent the company from achieving the world-class Performance. Hidden Factory in the garment industry The Hidden Factory can be seen to those who look for it. It exists right in front of our eyes. Yet, most of us are blind to its existence and the Hidden Factory continues to eat profits. Signs of ‘Hidden Factory’ in the Garment Industry •L ess production than target due to rework. •C arton audit failure due to unacceptable quality level. •R eproduction of short quantity to meet up shipment quantity. •O ver time working hour of the factory.
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•R ecruitment of sub-contractual manpower. Example 1 Cause: Unplanned production of short quantity due to damage after washing. Effect: Total cycle of production (spreading, cutting, sewing, washing etc.) need to be done again separately. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, manpower, money, raw material) that required to recover the damage of washing is totally waste. Example 2: Cause: Wrong label is attached to the garment due to the carelessness of operator or miscommunication with a supervisor. Effect: After finding the wrong label in the QI table, the garments are given back to the label attach operator. Wrong labels are removed and correct labels are attached. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The time that required to remove the wrong label and attach correct one is totally waste. Example 3 Cause: Different types of marking, turning, trimming, de-chaining is
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done in the garment industry. Effect: Requires extra manpower and time. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, manpower) used in marking, turning, trimming, de-chaining is totally waste as all these add no value at all. Example 4: Cause: Production of more garments than order quantity due to lack of planning.
Fast Fashion
Effect: Remain excess garment after shipment.
III. E liminate the cause that feeds ’Hidden Factory’
Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, raw material, manpower, money) to produce these extra garments all are waste.
There are hundreds of ways you can find ‘waste’ in every department; in every process; in every action. It is everyone’s responsibility in the organizational team to find the Hidden Factory in his or her area. If someone finds any Hidden Factory, he or she should expose it and implement solutions that will eliminate the waste.
Steps to eliminate ‘Hidden Factory’ from Garment Industry: I. F ind out ‘Is there any sign of Hidden Factory?’ II. F ind out the root cause of that sign
Fast fashion and low prices are responsible for clothing disposals The apparel industry is a major contributor to waste and carbon use. Recycling charity Textile Reuse & International Development (TRAID) said this. Desk Report TRAID is a charity working to stop clothes from being thrown away. They turn clothes waste into funds and resources to reduce the environmental and social impacts of the clothes. In evidence to the Environmental Audit Committee’s (EAC) hearing on the sustainability of the fashion industry, the trend towards disposable ‘fast’ fashion meant the amount of discarded material had increased sharply in recent years, said TRAID. According to TRAID, some 650,000 tons of clothing were collected for reuse and recycling in 2014, and a survey two years later by the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan found 39% was donated to charity shops. 18% was given through charity bag household collections, 13% brought to textile banks, 7% was sold and 6% of disposed of in general waste collections. It said that if the fashion industry continued to operate under its current model then, by 2050, it could use more than 26% of the carbon budget allocated for keeping within reach of the 2°C
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Figure: ‘Fast’ fashion meant the amount of discarded material had increased sharply in recent years.
average global warming limit. Because of fast-changing trends and low prices a significant increase in clothing purchases is happening. As a result, the rate of discarding, with 1.13 million tonnes of clothing purchased in the UK in 2016, a 200,000 increase in four years. The committee last week called on retailers Amazon, ASOS, Pretty Little Thing and Missguided to give evidence to the inquiry. EAC Chair, Labour’s MP, Mary Creagh, said, “Our recent evidence hearing raised alarm bells about the fast-growing online-only
retail sector. Low-quality £5 dresses aimed at young people are said to be made by workers on illegally low wages and are discarded almost instantly, causing mountains of non-recycled waste to pile up.” EAC Chair, also informed that they would be calling some of these online retailers in front of the committee to answer questions. “But, in the meantime, my letters encourage them to face up to the social and environmental consequences of their business models,” she also added.
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Volume 11, Issue 11
A p p a r e l To d a y
Scenario of African fashion industry Md. Tanvirul Hasnat Story behind Africa’s fashion crosses the complex designs of the continent’s culture, heritage and her dress. The next big thing is to provide a solution to the potential of Africa to drive the future of Africa and slow economic growth due to rising youth unemployment and increased value of commodities. Sub-Saharan African clothing and footwear market is worth $ 31 billion US dollars. Growing creative ambition in African fashion trends is essential, but poor supply discipline, the lack of international partners and the challenges of inferior infrastructure will be resolved promptly. Cotton, textile and apparel manufacturers in 18 sub-Saharan African countries are backing a new initiative to boost confidence in Africa as a sourcing location and attract new buyers and investors to the region. Effect of African Culture and Beauty on the global fashion scene, the number of non-selected and African descent models has increased significantly, running the runways for fashion’s biggest brands, which featured in leading
fashion magazines and featured among most of the world’s landbreaking advertising campaigns. In 2018, Amitoy Lagum of Uganda and Harith Paul of Tanzania, such as Harith Paul, will see the continual increase in African models of fashion. Although the African market for footwear industry is still young, the continent is heavily involved with raw materials, extraordinary talent and affordable labor, which is the perfect push to
Scopes for having investors in Africa
More Gorgeous Models on the International Scene
An Increase In Footwear Production
An Appreciation of Formal Fashion Training
build an extraordinary footwear industry. Countries like Ethiopia, Ghana, Kenya, and Nigeria lead the revolutionary footprint of the continent. In 2015, Ethiopia has earned more than $ 30 million from the export of shoes, which has achieved ninth place in the leather products industry worldwide. And this is just the beginning. In 2018, we can expect to see further growth from Ethiopia and other African countries, the price of African footwear industry may be likely to rise to $ 1 billion in the next decade. Today, though very few universities across the continent are offering first or master’s degree in fashion, the perception of fashion on the continent is improving as a result of African fashion being increasingly accepted and adopted across the globe. Recently South Africa, a country on the southernmost tip of the African continent, is planning to
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Large population, big market According to UNICEF, there are 1.2 billion people in Africa. The United Nations agency estimatesby 2050 population will be 4 billion. This large market size represents a great opportunity for investors. Fashion brands with proper marketing strategies and creative acumen have a huge market that they can sell.
A p p a r e l To d a y
Alibaba Group collaborates with Fung Retailing Ltd. Desk Report
First Mover Facility
Africa’s middle class is growing
The first investor in Africa's fashion industry will be the biggest beneficiary of the industry's growth potential seriously. Small and Medium Scale Enterprises (SMEs) make up 90 percent of Africa’s fashion industry, most of who are talented and whose growth has been hampered by lack of capital.
Investors may be ready to invest in the industry, but a thought often lags behind; Feel the kind of product and what kind of services it is. However, with the growth of Africa's economic growth, with the growth of the middle class, investors will not have to worry anymore with more disposable income of Africans.
+
$
13+ Increase in minimum wage for textile workers in Nigeria
$31bn worth African Fashion Industry
$65.1bn export target of Kenya by 2023 in woven apparel, knit apparel
Figure : African fashion industry’s present scenario
develop a master plan for the growth of the apparel, textile, footwear and leather retail value chain, targeting creation of 60,000 jobs, according to Trade and Industry Minister Rob Davies. He said that his department is working with Justin Barnes, facilitator for the new automotive master plan till 2035, to come out with a similar plan. The plan may be announced early next year, according to a report in a South African newspaper. Thanks to the upward trend of Africa’s clothing exports, especially thanks to the Bangladeshi investors, there has been a threat to the second position in the world’s clothing
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business. Under the African Growth and Scope Act (AGOA), the United States enjoys duty-free and quota-free access for certain goods with clothing. And among the main reasons for growing garments exports from African countries is one of the impressive Bangladeshi garment makers to take advantage of responsibility under the African Growth and Opportunity Act, or AGOA. AGOA is a piece of legislation that was approved by the U.S. Congress in May 2000. The purpose of this legislation is to assist the economies of subSaharan Africa and to improve economic relations between the United States and the region.
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Alibaba Group Holding Ltd announced a strategic partnership with Fung Retailing Ltd to bring more international lifestyle brands to mainland China at the CIIE in Shanghai on 6th November. The partnership will help global brands tailor their product development and marketing strategies to meet the ever-changing needs of Chinese consumers.
Figure: Left to right- Sabrina Fung, Group Managing Director of Fung Retailing Limited; Dr. Victor Fung, Group Chairman of the Fung Group; Daniel Zhang, CEO of Alibaba Group; and Toby Xu, Vice President of Alibaba Group. Courtesy: Fung Retailing Ltd
In addition to bringing more international lifestyle brands to mainland China, the partnership will better serve global brands by leveraging Fung Retailing’s global portfolio of brands, offline retail channels and marketing know-how, as well as Alibaba’s ecosystem, digital retail leadership, technology, and consumer insights from Alibaba’s over 600 million users. Under the MoU, both companies will join forces in global brand recruitment and offer brands merchandising, marketing and Omni channel distribution services. This collaboration will focus on the mainland China market as a first step, and potentially expand to other regions riding on Alibaba’s platforms, said a release. The partnership will focus on China first, but the two sides said they could potentially expand to other regions served by Alibaba’s platforms.
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Apparel Brands
TWELVE for trendy and gorgeous dresses in winter Twelve is a popular name right now in Bangladesh’s fashion fraternity. This winter, Twelve is offering trendy at the same time affordable and fashionable clothing’s focused on men and women fashion appetite of ages between eighteen and thirty-five. FT Research Team Winter is always a season of fashion. Men, women of all ages and kids love to wear fashionable clothing’s in this season. Twelve Clothing, a sister concern of TEAM Group offering special winter collection for the fashion conscious people in all their five outlets across Dhaka. Twelve Clothing revealed as a brand in 2012 with their very first outlet at Uttara, Dhaka. With a vision of pioneering the fast fashion culture in Bangladesh by blending ethnic and western fusion. Unparalleled and uncompromising quality, trendy fabric and designs are Twelve Clothing’s unique selling point. With individual clothing line for both men and women, they have come up with a wider range of variety of style and color in their Jamuna Future Park (Level-1, Block- A) Uttara (Jashim uddin Avenue)
Banasree (Road - 9, Block – C
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latest addition of fashion focusing the winter season. From party wear to a casual day out or family program you can find whatever you need according to your fashion appetite. Men’s casual and formal Blazers, Casual Bomber, Denim Jacket and husky jacket etc. are very fascinating. For ladies, traditional Kurtis, Suit Sets, cardigans, Jackets, Dhanmondi (KB square) Sweat Shirts, Denim jacket and Palazzo are very eye-catching.
Mirpur
Fahmid Islam, Chief Executive Officer of Twelve Clothing said, “We have brought trendy, colorful and feasible winter collection for men and
women available in our all five outlets. Sweater and hoodies price starts at BDT 900 and up to 1500. Men’s jacket from starts from BDT 1290, Blazer 4250 and ladies jacket from BDT 1990.” Abdullah Hil Rakib, Managing Director of Team Group said, “I believe, in the next five years there will be a lot more brands and the entire industry will be standardized into an ideal level with the support of the new generation who will lead this industry. So, that is the main theme which pushes us to come up in the industry with a new Bangladeshi brand ‘Twelve’ in 2012.” All outlets of Twelve Clothing are at Uttara (Jashimuddin Avenue), Jamuna Future Park (Level-1, BlockA), Banasree (Road - 9, Block – C), Mirpur, Dhanmondi (KB square).
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Volume 11, Issue 11
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Pakistan’s knitwear garment exports surge over 16% in October Desk report The knitted garment sector of Pakistan has maintained a growth in its shipments and led the sector with an increase of 16.13% in its exports where overall textile exports were recorded at $1.13 billion in October, down 0.12% compared with $1.132 billion in the corresponding period of previous year. Central Chairman of Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA), Muhammad Jawed Bilwani said, “Knitwear garment exports grew 10.41% in July-October 2018 against the same month last year so especially this sector has a great potential for expansion.” He expected that the knitwear garment sector can achieve new milestones and its export can be raised by 25% every year, provided the government considers the proposals sought from the sector. Where the size of annual global exports from Pakistan is only around $20 billion but the knitted exports alone earned $2.719 billion in the fiscal year 2017-18, which included knitted products like hoodies, shirts, t-shirts, jerseys,
Figure: Pakistan is the 25th largest economy in the world and one of the few countries where complete value chain of textiles manufacturing exists.
pullovers, trousers, jackets, etc. The sector has ranked high in the textile group over the past three years. Most Exported Knitted Product from Pakistan Hoodies T-Shirts
Pakistan’s annual exports. Pakistan is one of the few countries where complete value chain of textiles manufacturing exists. Pakistan annually produces more than 11 million bales of cotton. The cotton is domestically ginned and then spun into yarn by a robust spinning sector. Bilwani urged the government to consider and set separate electricity tariffs for the five zero-rated industries and introduce uniform tariffs for water consumption as well. Currently, water tariffs for the industries in Karachi were the highest when compared with other regions and provinces. The area of product diversification and branding are also being given due attention. Pakistan is moving towards achieving more market diversification and improved market access.
Jerseys Pullovers Trousers Jackets Shirts Pakistan is the 25th largest economy in the world. Textiles sector is the mainstay of their exports sector, which, together with cotton and yarn, accounts for more than half the total value of
Meanwhile, the PHMA has written a letter to the finance minister, requesting to support the textile industry as it thinks Pakistan has a great chance to go on top in the world.
India’s apparel exports slumped by 26% in Sep Desk Report According to data released by Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics (DGCI&S), Kolkata, India’s garment exports fall by 26% in September due to higher input cost and lack of favorable trade agreements for major global markets. Exports of readymade garments of India declined sharply in September 2018 worth Rs 7968cr compared to Rs 10705cr in September 2017. The decline is a shock to apparel
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Pradesh (UP), who blame it on high input costs. Production costs in the northern hubs are high compared to other competing countries.
exporters of India, particularly from Punjab, Haryana and Uttar
Overall, India exported readymade garments worth Rs 35860.16cr in April-July 2018, and during April-July 2017, India’s apparel exports were to the tune of Rs 39857cr.
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Volume 11, Issue 11
from f ield to fashion
Sales Inquiry +88 0184 1166 233 amran@maksonsgroup.com.bd www.maksonsgroup.com.bd
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Apparel exports to new markets rose by 42% in July- October of FY19 Bangladesh’s apparel exports to non-traditional markets have seen a sharp rise by 41.81% to nearly $2 billion in July-October period of the current fiscal year. Staff Correspondent According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, during July-October period of the fiscal year 2018-19, Bangladesh has earned $1.88 billion exporting clothing products to nontraditional markets, which is 41.81% higher compared to $1.33 billion in the same period a year ago. Of the total amount, woven products earned $940.20 million, up by 53.78%, which was $611.41 million in the same period. While knitwear products fetched $950 million, which is 31.66% higher comparing to $721 million a year ago. Talking on the export performance in non-traditional exports, manufacturers, and trade analysts attributed government and exporters efforts in exploring new markets and duty-free market access. “As the government is providing cash incentives against apparel export to non-traditional export destination, exports earnings from the new market has seen a sharp rise in July-October period of the current fiscal year, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed told the Textile Today. For the current fiscal year, the Bangladesh government has increased cash incentives to 4% from 3% against export to new markets. The present government is very positive to business expansion and it will continue its policy support for market diversification. In the months to come, the export earnings from the non-traditional market will see further growth, said the minister. He also urged the apparel manufacturers to explore more new markets in a bid to enlarge
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Clothing products exports to non-traditional markets Year
Woven products
Knitwear products
% compared to the same
(million$)
(million$)
period a year ago
2018-2019
940.20
950
53.78
2017-2018
611.41
721
31.66
the export destination to reach the export target of $50 billion by 2021. “In the recent year, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has taken some massive initiatives to explore new export destination by participation in various exposition. While some of the countries have provided dutyfree market access, which pushed the export shipments to the new markets sharply,” BGMEA Senior Vice President Faruque Hassan told the Textile Today. On top of that, safety improvement in the Bangladesh apparel sector has rebuild buyers confidence in procuring products from here, said Hassan also Managing Director of Giant Group. I think it’s high time for Bangladesh to grab more market share from the global export market. But the government has to be more active in this regard by offering proper and effective
policy support, he added. “Bangladesh is doing better in non-traditional export markets. This is because of manufacturers move for new markets, while the government policy support including cash incentives expedited the growth,” Former Advisor to caretaker government AB Mirza Azizul Islam told the Textile Today. In addition, the China-US trade war also was another reason for the sharp rise as the buyers of northAmerican placing orders here, said the economist. He urged the government to continue policy support to diversify export destination to reduce dependency on EU and US markets. Non-traditional export markets for the Bangladesh garment sector include China, Russia, Japan, India, South Africa, Australia, Turkey, Brazil, Chile, Mexico, South Korea, Malaysia, and New Zealand.
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Volume 11, Issue 11