Unveiling industry best practices
F i b e r to Ya r n August 2019
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 08 l Pages 123 to 138
How internal policy and international trade matrix affecting primary textile sector?
Unpredictable policy leading spinning sector to destruction
India’s cotton yarn market suffering due to US-China trade war
Unveiling industry best practices
August 2019
F i b e r to Ya r n
Bangladesh Textile Today |
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
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How internal policy and international trade matrix affecting primary textile sector? Mohammad Jewel Rana, Asst. Manager (HR, Admin & Comp), Maksons Group Bangladesh is the 2nd largest Ready-Made Garments (RMG) exporter in the world after China. Its RMG sector has been rapidly expanding for the last four decades. In the beginning, the RMG industry was not adequately supported by the domestic supply chain (e.g. spinning, weaving, knitting, fabric processing, and the garment accessories industries). Until FY 1994, Bangladesh’s RMG industry was mostly dependent on imported fabrics- the Primary Textile Sector (PTS) was not producing the necessary fabrics and yarn. According to Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) presently around 90% yarn demand for knit RMG and 35-40% yarn demand for woven RMG are met by Primary Textile Sector (PTS). Once, it was a dream but our visionary entrepreneurs have made it a reality. They have invested more than US$4.5 billion in the Primary Textile Sector. There are 1461 member mills under BTMA, of them yarn manufacturing mills: 425, fabric manufacturing mills: 796, and dyeing-printingfinishing mills: 240. At Present, due to some international and national policy and realities, this industry is facing severe crisis and some millers forced to close their factories. Some core crises are discussed below Increasing cost of production: The cost of production has been surged due to many reasons,
Bangladesh Textile Today |
including increasing interest rate, double-digit inflation and decreasing value of Bangladeshi Taka. These reasons have increased the cost of production of the textile industry which created some difficult challenges for the primary textile sector to compete in the international market. Energy crisis: the Energy crisis is one of the major problems in Bangladesh textile industry. a) Price hike of electricity and electricity crisis: As a consequence of load-shedding, the textile production capacity of various sub-sectors have been reduced by up to 30 percent. The load-shedding of electricity causes a rapid decrease in production which also reduces the export order. The cost of production has risen due to the sudden increase in electricity tariff. For such a dramatic turn
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of events, the capability and competitiveness of this industry in the international market affected seriously. b) Price hike of gas and gas shortage: Low pressure of gas continues in textile industries despite a significant increase in temperature. Continuous gas disconnection over months, causing huge production losses and badly affecting the capability of the industry. Because of the low pressure of the gas, some mill owners use an alternative source of energy like generator which increases their cost of production further. PTS (Primary Textile Sector) industries are producing around 1200 MW power through Captive Generator. Presently, Captive Power Generator per cubic meter gas price is Tk.13.85, previously which was Tk.8.62. It shows an increase by 60.67%. In addition, if the gas price hikes according
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S T- E d i t o r i a l
to the recent proposal then many textile mills will be forced to shut their units. Cost of compliance: To implement compliance operational working environment millers are investing a lot. Though the buyers are pushing the compliance issue strictly, they are not increasing apparel prices from their end. Competition to attract the buyer: Factory owners compete among themselves to attract buyers, it reduces the price of the product which impacts on the profit. Tight monetary policy: The continuity of tight monetary policy causes an intensive increase in the cost of production. Due to the high-interest rate, the financing cost increased, which has a severe effect on production. Increasing the problems for the industry. Fourth-generation automation: We are entering a robotic economic or robotic industrialization – meaning automation – but we are not ready for the notion and challenges it brings for our labor sector. We have to prepare ourselves for that kind of situation. US-China trade war US’s widening trade deficit with China is a major cause for the country’s economic woes. US government has started imposing protectionist measures on import
from major trading partners like China and Canada. US has recently decided to slap 25% tariff on imports worth up to USD 200 billion from China. Bangladesh can directly benefit in the event of an escalating trade war between the US and China, especially if the US imposes higher tariffs on imported Chinese apparel. Alongside, Bangladesh can be benefited from the capital flight, as some Chinese apparel manufacturers would be seeking to relocate operations to a country having normal trade ties with the US. The trade war is contributing to price volatility in the cotton market, which is a key raw material for the apparel sector. China’s stockpiling and procurement of cotton from regional cotton producers like Uzbekistan and India, instead of the US- will cause a mismatch in the demand-supply scenario. Bangladeshi textile manufacturers may suffer, as a result. Reduced-order: Almost all top clothing retailers like H&M, Walmart, JC Penney, Inditex, Zara, Gap, M&S, Uniqlo, C&A, Tesco, Hugo Boss and Adidas have been souring garment items worth of billion dollars from Bangladesh every year. Presently they are shifting orders from Bangladesh to others country. Raw material prices: Prices of
cotton and other raw materials used in the textile industry fluctuate rapidly in Bangladesh. The rapid increase in the price of raw material affects the cost of production badly. The above all scenarios are badly affecting the textile industry. The demand for textile products going down locally and internationally as well. The export order reduced due to unpredictable conditions and other various reasons in Bangladesh. The cut down in the production of textile increases unemployment. More worryingly, Bangladesh's garment and textile manufacturers will have to face steep competition from countries such as India, Pakistan, China, and Thailand, from whom the country now imports fabric to meet the demands of its RMG sector. We are importing most of the items to produce readymade garments except our unskilled or semiskilled workforce. It is tough to compete with countries like China or India as they are producing raw cotton to machinery as well. So, they can sell their product at a lower price than us. In this regard, it is the high time for our regulatory body to look into the matter-how the textile industry can survive in this situation.
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Export Opinion
Unpredictable policy leading spinning sector to destruction Shafiqul Islam Sarker, Managing Director, Purbani Group, Director, BTMA The govt. has hiked the price of gas for all sectors including industry to reduce the subsidy of imported LNG. This decision will bear down heavily in the spinning sector. As the cost will increase from 8 to 15 cents depending on the product type. Already, the spinners are operating business with 15 to 20 cents loss over input cost. Meaning this additional 15 cents loss will add on top of that and pave the way for the closure of 20 to 30% spinning mills. The most worrying reality for the investors is, when the government frequently changes its policy in the key sector like energy – which is the mother of all other industrial growth – it generates a negative appetite for investors, and scare them away from further future investment. As the investors always worry for a sudden increase in cost due to a government decision. So, all the stakeholders are asking for minimum 5 years unchanged policy support as investors can get confidence to invest more. This situation can only be eased if the government takes a long term plan in the energy sector. When a country lacks in ease of doing business due to frequent changing of government decisions, it will have an extremely negative impact on the GDP growth and slows down the GDP growth for sure. The government and other relevant bodies/organizations must provide all possible facilities to the investors. Especially for the primary textile sector. Providing all types of facilities for investors is essential for the economic development of a country. Keeping in mind, the more comfortable an
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investor feels, the more risk he will take. Ensuring more development and rapid growth of GDP. The government must fix a long term policy for the energy sector
to resolve this scenario and bring back investors’ confidence and saving the primary textile sector of Bangladesh. We must understand that unlike
An increase in locally produced yarn and fabric price means losing the price edge locally & internationally
Spinners are operating business with 15 to 20 cents loss over input cost
A likely scenario for the spinning sector
20 to 30% spinning mills will shut down
Increased gas price will increase cost up to 8 to 15 cents
S p i n n i n g To d a y
Export Opinion
other industries of Bangladesh, who are manufacturing for local markets and protected by bond and other facilities, the primary textile sector is competing against global players. Otherwise, we will lose the price edge with other yarn and fabric producing countries. When the locally produced yarn and fabric price increases than it will remain unsold and overburden our millers who are already operating in loss with a bank loan. On top of that, they will be losing the local and international market leaving no room for the spinning manufacturers to stay afloat. This will give a huge blow to the backward linkage industry. The forward industry can import fabric and yarn from abroad with the bonded facility as they are not bound to use the locally produced yarn and fabric. If this situation continues, in the future, we might see this business moving out of the country. Spinners have complex realities, some are running mills with heavy loans, and some have light debt. On the other hand, those who have full cash – closing factories for a couple of months for them is not a problem – but the majority of the spinners will be in a crippling situation when they shut their factories. As they are operating with loose and piling up bank loans, ultimately bank will force the manufacturer to close down its factory. In last FY, the textile and RMG sector alone exported US$34.133 bn. But is it the overall picture of the sector? A recent report by a prominent news media (Daily Jugantor) showed, every year the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) do not subtract the cost of raw materials import and back-to-back LC from the export amount. Which is a staggering 80% (around US$27 Bn) of the total export earnings. Meaning the export amount shows a partial figure. More worryingly, when the forward sector will start using imported
Bangladesh Textile Today |
The gross value addition from RMG 65.00 63.66%
63.75 62.50
62.37%
61.76%
61.67%
60.52%
61.25
60.94%
60.00 58.75 57.50 56.25 55.00 FY 13
FY 14
FY 15
FY 16
FY 17
FY 18 Source: Bangladesh Bank
Gross value addition from RMG
accessories.
More worryingly, when the forward sector will start using imported yarn and fabric etc., the situation will be much worse as a lump sum will require for the imported yarn and fabric. It will Shrink our already thinning hard-earned valuable foreign currency. yarn and fabric etc., the situation will be much worse as a lump sum will require for the imported yarn and fabric. It will Shrink our already thinning hard-earned valuable foreign currency. According to the quarterly review of Bangladesh Bank, the gross value addition from the readymade garment sector stood 63.23% in the first half of the current financial year 2018-19. The value addition in FY 18 was 60.94%. Bangladesh Bank calculated the value addition considering the import price of raw materials including cotton, synthetic/viscose fiber, synthetic/mixed yarn, cotton yarn, and textile fabrics and
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A Bangladesh Bank report showed that import price of raw materials in the July-December period of FY 19 stood at $6.28 billion which is 36.77% of total export earnings from RMG sector of $17.08 billion in the period. Thus, raw materials prices shared 36.77% of the total value of RMG export, it means local value addition is estimated at 63.23%. On the other hand, in recent years foreign investment in various sectors has increased a lot. Bangladesh received $3.61 billion FDI (Foreign direct investment) last year, according to a World Investment Report 2019 by United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD). But we have to put these investments under scrutiny. In conclusion, the government should take long term policy for the primary textile sector and bring foreign investments under scrutiny. Author
Shafiqul Islam Sarker, Managing Director, Purbani Group
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C o t t o n To d a y
India’s cotton yarn market suffering due to US-China trade war Cotton yarn exports from India downed by 33% Desk Report Due to uncertainties in the global apparel market with the USChina trade war looming over the horizon created a negative domino effect in the spinning sector. The second-largest cotton producer country India has been observing uncertainties in its spinning sector due to this. Between April and June of FY 2019 alone, cotton yarn exports from India downed by 33% compared to the same period last year. The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil) has said that cotton yarn exports from April to June 2019 was 226 million kg as against 338 million kg during the same period last year. In June, exports were just 59 million kg, which is 50.74% less compared to June 2018. One of India’s major spinning producing state Gujarat – with 5.2 million spindles across all the spinning mills – is witnessing a downturn of 30% export. Spinners are cutting production by 15% and 0.7 million spindles are sitting idle amidst this scenario, estimates by All Gujarat Spinners’ Association (AGSA). Saurin Parikh, President, All Gujarat Spinners’ Association (AGSA) said, “Mills from Gujarat export a significant 30% of their total cotton yarn production, while the remaining is supplied in the domestic market.” With the ongoing US-China trade war, Chinese fabric and garment
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50.0
50% production cut, in the North Indian spinners
50% drop, exports to China
37.5 33% down, cotton yarn exports from India from April and June of FY 2019
25.0
12.5
15% production cut by spinners in Gujarat, with 0.7 million spindles sitting idle
0.0 Figure: The bleak scenario of Indian cotton sector
manufacturers are facing a huge inventory pile-up, because their garment exports to the US have declined. As a consequence, the demand for cotton yarn in the international market has gone down, he added.
were higher than international prices and the trade war between China and the U.S. had affected the sentiments in the global market. While Indian yarn attracts 3.5% duty in China, Vietnam has duty-free access.”
In the domestic market, the demand for apparel and fabric has also been down and the weavers have begun to reducing their inventory gradually to cope up with the situation.
According to Rajiv Garg, President, Northern India Textile Mills’ Association, some textile units are considering a production cut of as much as 50% to bring down borrowing/outstanding and stocks. Weather and quality of inputs also seem unfavorable at present.
Poor demand has adversely affected revenues. In the past twothree months, cotton yarn exports went down by 22%,” said Dr. Bharat Boghra, Chairman, AGSA. China is the main market for Indian cotton yarn exports. But, exports to China have dropped nearly 50%. Besides, exports to Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Columbia have also declined, Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director of Texprocil, said. Sanjay K. Jain, Chairman of Confederation of Indian Textile Industry, said “India’s cotton prices
Spinning mills in Andhra Pradesh have declared a production holiday from July to cut down on the number of working days the backdrop of a decline in exports and rising production costs. Near-term prospects of cotton spinning mills are bleak. With falling land of cotton in India and easing global demand for yarn, the differential in prices between domestic and overseas markets is an additional challenge.
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Cotton is half of total raw material cost in the Indian textile industry Khurram Bahadur
Cotton plays an important role in the Indian economy as the country’s textile industry is predominantly cotton based. India is one of the largest producers as well as exporters of cotton yarn. Cotton accounts for 51 percent of the total raw material cost in the Indian textile industry and continues to remain at an elevated level. The situation is forcing domestic industry margins, according to India Ratings and Research (Ind-Ra). India Ratings and Research (IndRa) has published the June 2019 edition of its credit news digest on India’s textile sector, which highlights the trends in the subsegments of the textile sector, including cotton, man-made fibers, yarns, and fabric with a focus on commodity prices, imports/ exports, production, capital expenditure and recent rating actions. Cotton yarn and fabrics exports account for about 23 percent of India’s total textiles and apparel exports. This decreasing price spread, along with a gradual improvement in demand, provides much-needed respite for cotton industry players. Capital expenditure in textiles has been majorly to replace machines with new technologies. The benchmark variety of cotton jumped to Rs 12,373 a quintal on Friday from Rs 11,698 a quintal at the beginning of the month. With fall in the spreads, the agency now expects a continued trend of increased imports in FY 2019-20 and for the current sowing seasonOctober 2018 to September 2019cotton production projections have been reduced by 0.6 million bales owing to the scarcity of water in few states and lower
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acreage/yield of the crop. This means 1.5 million bales will need to be imported to meet the domestic consumption, the report said.
production improved by about 34 percent year-on-year and exports improved by 18 percent year-onyear.
According to Rahul Mehta, President, Clothing Manufacturers’ Association of India (CMAI), the textile industry works at a very thin margin of 2-3 percent.
Readymade garment exports have decreased as the world economy has slowed down and removal of tax incentives for exports by the government have made Indian textile goods less competitive Vietnam and Bangladesh, which have improved their market share in the global textile industry in select sub-segments. Decreasing exports and weak consumer sentiments have impacted the industry’s capacity utilization.
“The raw material price rise of 6-7 percent along with the increase in other cost is creating pressure on profit margins,” he added. Meanwhile, yarn production has been fluctuating over the last six months, although the production average has been maintained. Exports have risen to more than 30 percent during March 2019. Prices of cotton yarn are co-related to raw cotton prices and thus have seen an upward movement in line with raw cotton prices. Synthetic fabrics have seen a gradual revival in demand due to the reduced cost of production. Falling crude oil prices have made synthetics more competitive against increasing cotton prices. Partially-oriented yarn and texturized yarn prices declined by eight percent and seven percent month-over-month respectively. Overall apparel
Some major reasons behind the continuity of remaining elevated level of inflation in raw material cost: • Cotton exports are freely allowed, and rightly so, this makes domestic cotton prices follow international prices. Cotton accounts for 65-70 percent of the yarn cost and a 35 percent increase in cotton prices mean a 20 percent increase in yarn prices. • Power constitutes the second most important element of cost: this has gone by 30-40 percent due to power cuts and needs to buy power from the
C o t t o n To d a y
open market or generate it using liquid fuels. For mills that pay the full cost of power. It accounts for 15 percent of the yarn cost in normal conditions. In today’s situation, it is high as 20-21 percent.
Cotton yarn and fabrics exports account for about 23% of India’s total textiles and apparel exports
• There is going to be an increased shortage of yarn in days to come, as per consumption is increasing day by day in India. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimates India’s cotton output at 5.9 million tons for 2018-19 as compared to 6.3 million tons for the previous year.
Cotton accounts for 51% of the total raw material cost in the Indian textile industry Cotton exports have risen to more than 30% during March 2019
Overall apparel production substantially improved by about 34 percent year-on-year for the latest-available date for April 2019 and exports improved by 18 percent year-on-year, as per the latest available data for May 2019. Capital expenditure in textiles has been majorly to replace machines with new technologies and shift to premium/niche products in the existing line-up. Projects outstanding for the quarter ending March 2019 were worth ₹680 billion as against completed projects of ₹10-15 billion. New projects announced were balanced by the completed projects for the quarter ending March 2019.
Cotton prices hit the lowest in 10-years Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba The past months can be characterized as a time with significant uncertainty and volatility in the global economy. The Sino-U.S. trade war has caused sourcing shifts, concern over prices and great tension in the apparel and textile supply chain. Just like a domino effect, the world cotton market is suffering and its prices hitting the lowest within 10 years says most of the story. The long-term effect on the cotton market is undulating from the farm to the commodities market, with prices taking a sizable hit as the U.S. loses out on its major export market, China. Consequently, the supply and demand dynamic is being greatly disturbed. The USA, the third-largest producer of cotton in the world plays a significant role in the global cotton industry. In 201819, about 16% of the total cotton production came from the USA. But the current scenario isn’t so satisfactory for the farmers and the cotton infrastructure. U.S. spot cotton prices fell to 52.73 cents a pound on August 5, Monday from 53.76 cents on August 2, Friday,
Bangladesh Textile Today |
director of Olah Inc., said, “When the cotton market sees a major export market like China disappear, particularly in a short period of time, the reaction is to contract and prices plunge. That’s because there isn’t any overnight solution to demand, and it is a supply and demand situation.” Figure: Cotton prices hit the lowest in 10-years due to the trade war.
according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). This is the lowest price for the commodity since 2009. Prices bounced back a bit on August 6, Tuesday, closing at 53.09 cents per pound. Prices averaged 57.75 cents per pound for the week ending August 1. That was up from 57.71 cents from the prior week, but down from 85.78 cents reported the corresponding period a year ago, USDA reported. U.S. cotton futures prices for October contracts closed at 57.91 cents a pound on August 5, from 58.94 cents on August 1 and 64.24 cents on July 25. On 6 August, they inched up to 58.25 cents. Robert Antoshak, managing
Volume 12, Issue 08
Since China implemented a 25 percent retaliatory tariff on imports of U.S. cotton fiber last July, its imports from the U.S. have dropped 44 percent, or 868,000 bales, according to the USDA. Antoshak said that Chinese buyers always came in and bought the best cotton because they wanted quality, especially for their quality ring spinning. But now, when there’s a large and healthy U.S. crop the situation is getting worse because the Chinese buyers are left asking “now what?” Before the unrest situation, when there was no trade war, cotton was at around a $1 a pound. According to Antoshak if the prices keep dropping in this trend, a lot of farmers and the whole cotton infrastructure will suffer.
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Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t
Te c h n i c a l A r t i c l e
Design and development of smart personal floatation device with location tracking Rashedul Islam, Department of Wet Process Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles Dr. Hasan Shahariar, Co-Founder and CTO, Funxion Wear Inc. Raleigh, NC State. Dewan Murshed Ahmed, Assistant Professor, Department of Fabric Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles Abstract In this work, we designed and developed a smart personal floatation (sPFD) device which is less bulky and comfortable in comparison with existing personal floatation devices or life jacket. It is able to send the exact location to a specific server build in the vehicle. Generally, PFD has bulk appearance due to the use of different foam materials in its structure. Due to bulk structure and discomfort to wear, the passengers, as well as marine corps, are not willing to wear any protection devices during their journey or regular activities in the waterway. Every year more than thousands of people die in the maritime and waterway accidents. One of the reason is not to wear any personal floatation device. Here, we reduced the bulkiness by examining the different floating material and their proper ergonomic distribution according to the human body structure. Simultaneously it provides enough buoyancy force to keep floating a human body. It will save thousands of human lives dying every year due to water transport accidents or any kind of waterway accidents. In addition, it can also be used as a swimming suit for the new learners as well as for the people who works in the river or in the sea.
proposed a formula to measure the human volume as following: For any human body: V= S×(51.44×W/H+15.3) V = Volume of human body in litter S= Surface area of the body in square meter W= Weight of the person in kg H= Height of the person in centimeter A nomogram is used in medical science to calculate the surface area of the human body and which is prepared according to the Du Bios formula. Then, we are able to calculate the required buoyant force need to provide by a PDF to float a body. But the volume of the weight of the human body varies according to the weight and height of the body. In this work, height and weight of adult with different ages as well as slim, fatty both male and female were taken to measure the surface area, volume and then the required buoyant force. After calculating volume, we have found that almost 3 to 5 kg extra weight submerge the human body into the water 3 to 5 kg extra buoyant force is required to float a body. Our sPFD will provide 3 to 5 kg buoyant force for floatation of human body with minimum bulkiness.
1. Experimental procedure
1.2 Cutting and assembling the pattern pieces
1.1 Mathematical calculation
The weight of a person is W.
A full sleeve T-shirt is made from elastic fabric (20% lycra and 80% cotton) with maintaining the proper size as base garment. At first the pattern is cut according to the size as follows Chest 21.5, nick opening 17, waist 20.5, shoulders 18.5, center back length 29. After cutting the pattern, all of the components are stitched together and made a base for sPFD.
The weight of water replaced by the person itself is Ww
1.3 Making air tube and air pocket
Required buoyant force needs to provide for the flotation of one person, Br= W- Ww
After preparing the cotton-lycra base garment for sPFD, we made small air tube having 1.4 cm diameter by using ultra-thin bladder with an opening by which air is pumped (see Figure 1). Different length of air tube is prepared for specific region of the base garment. These air tubes will be installed in the air pocket. At first fabric was cut according to the size and then stitched together with maximum compactness. Thus, air pocket is made. Polyester waterproof fabric is used to make air pocket in the base garments.
One person will submerge into the water due to the difference of the weight of the person to the weight of the water that is replaced by the person own-self. To float a human body minimum amount of buoyant force needs to be provided by any PDF. Let’s assume,
It’s very easy to measure the weight of a person but the weight of water Ww replaced by the person itself is not so easy. Volume of this person is required to measure the weight of the water. The volume human body is in irregular shape which can be measured by displacement method but the method is not highly accurate as well as its not suitable for the high number of people. The study of George and Gehan
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Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t
1.4 Installing air tube in the air pocket
Te c h n i c a l A r t i c l e
Weight in inch (W)
Height in cm (H)
Volume of body in liter (V)
Water replaced by body in kg (Ww)
Surface area in m2(S)
Required buoyant force in kg (Br)
49
154.94
45.77356331
45.77356331
1.45
3.226436685
58
161.29
54.4145562
54.4145562
1.61
3.585443797
56
154.94
52.19363547
52.19363547
1.54
3.806364528
50
149.86
46.4216398
46.4216398
1.43
3.578360203
59
160.02
55.16846807
55.16846807
1.61
3.831531934
74
168.91
69.61828619
69.61828619
1.84
4.381713812
61
158.75
56.80679244
56.80679244
1.62
4.193207559
59
147.32
54.56973337
54.56973337
1.52
4.43026663
44
153.67
41.43961203
41.43961203
1.38
2.560387974
49
154.94
45.77356331
45.77356331
1.45
3.226436685
52
148.59
48.28753718
48.28753718
1.45
3.712462817
2. Result and Discussion
57
149.86
52.64684626
52.64684626
1.51
4.353153743
2.1 Required buoyant force
52
148.59
48.28753718
48.28753718
1.45
3.712462817
We collected the weight and height of the several adult people both male and female of different age to calculate volume, surface area and buoyant force. As we know that the human body has irregular shape. Due to irregularity, it’s not easy to measure the human volume. Here we used the most precise formula to measure the volume of the body and that was, V= S×(51.44×W/H+15.3) proposed by George and Gehan. But in this formula surface area is required. Several established formula are available to calculate the surface area.
52
157.48
48.75113818
48.75113818
1.51
3.248861824
61
167.64
57.48996111
57.48996111
1.69
3.510038893
53
160.02
49.79955031
49.79955031
1.54
3.200449694
45
152.4
42.37967717
42.37967717
1.39
2.620322835
55
152.4
51.13509974
51.13509974
1.51
3.864900262
56
157.48
52.40367691
52.40367691
1.56
3.596323089
55
162.56
51.67237598
51.67237598
1.58
3.327624016
50
152.4
46.65612861
46.65612861
1.45
3.343871391
52
157.48
48.75113818
48.75113818
1.51
3.248861824
62
157.48
58.30522835
58.30522835
1.64
3.694771654
70
157.48
65.262365
65.262365
1.71
4.737635001
After making air pocket in the base garments, the air tubes were installed in the air pocket. Before installing, air was pumped in the tube and closed the opening. Then the air pockets were closed by the stitching. The air tubes were installed side by side with minimum space between two air tubes. 1.5 Fabrication of location identification devices A waterproof active GPS tracker is fabricated in the shoulder in the sPFD which will give the exact location of the wearer after any accident to cloud sever build in the vehicle.
Du-Bois formula: Body surface area= 0.007184 × W0.425 × H0.725 Mosteller formula: Body surface area= 0.016667 × W0.5 × H0.5 Haycock formula: Body surface area= 0.024265 × W0.5378 × H0.3964 Gehan and George formula: Body surface area= 0.0235 × W0.51456 × H0.42246 Boyd formula: Body surface area= 0.03330 × W(0.6157 × H0.3
0.0188 × log w) 10
Fujimoto formula: Body surface area= 0.008883 × W0.51456 × H0.66 Takahira formula: Body surface area= 0.007241 × W0.425 × H0.725 Schlich formula: Women body surface area= 0.000975482 × W0.46 × H1.08 Men body surface area = 0.000579479 ×W0.38×H1.08 Above all this of these formulas are used to measure the surface area of the human body and comparatively the Du-Bois formula are more accurate[16]. In our study we used the Du-Bois formula. After measuring the surface area of the body then volume of the body is calculated to find out the weight of the water replaced by human body prioritize the calculation of the required buoyant force. In the volume calculation, we used the Gehan and George’s formula when weight and height is known. The formula is V= S×(51.44×W/H+15.3)
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There are also several ways to measure the human volume such as displacement method but it not suitable all time for bulk amount of data. We found the maximum required amount of buoyant force 4.73 kg-weight and minimum amount of buoyant force 2 kg-weight (see Table 1). This buoyant force is required to float a body in the water having 1000kg/ m3 density which must be provided by the sPFD. So, in our work we first ensure that our sPFD will provide 5kg weight buoyant force as well it will provide an extra amount of force to ensure the maximum safety of the wearers. This required buoyant force needs 5-liter volume which will be uniformly distributed in the specific region of the body. We find out the specific region of the body part by ergonomic study where it will be distributed to reduce the bulkiness and to increase the comfortability It was the big challenge to select the buoyant material. We investigated several foam materials as well as the air as buoyant materials. We also investigated the internal foam structure of the polyester and polyurethane foam to reduce the bulkiness. But in the existing PFD contain the foamy material inside it and some of sPFD are inflatable with carbon dioxide gas. That’s why we selected air as buoyant material inside a cylindrical tube having small diameter which will reduce the bulkiness. 2.2 Structure of the fabric with buoyant material The sPFD contain three layer of the fabric, inner layer
Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t
Te c h n i c a l A r t i c l e
air can be controlled and air can be pumped if required.
Inner side of thr sPFD
Outer side of thr sPFD
Cotton lycra base fabric
3. Conclusion
Water proof polyster fabric
Here to the best of our knowledge, existing life jacket or sPFD has bulk Back Side Right Side Air structure due to use of foamy material inside the Ultra thing rubber bladder sPFD as buoyant material Void except the inflatable life vest. In this work, we introduced a new design structure of buoyant Front Side Leftt Side material using air tube which Figure 1: cross section of the layered structure of Figure 2: Design and the distribution of consists of ultra-thin bladder. sPFD and air tube placement layered structure in the base garment We also reported on the proper region of the body is consisted of cotton/lycra blend C= Multilayer structure is placed in where the buoyant materials are fabric which will provide softness the right side of the belly placed to retain proper shape. and comfortability to wearer. The D= Multilayer structure is placed in Moreover, it reduces the bulkiness middle and outer layer of the sPFD the upper chest of the structure and gives the is made of fine polyester fabric E= Multilayer structure is placed in comfort to wearer due to the and is called air pocket. the front belly use of the cotton/lycra base Cylindrical air tube is placed material. Every year thousands F= Multilayer structure is place in between two layers; middle layer of people are dying in the water the left belly and outer layer. The water proof way accident. Very few of the polyester fabric will resist water People who knows how swim or passengers are alive after the to penetrate into the sPFD. The doesn’t know how to swim, has accident due to the lacking of air tube is placed side by side. The natural inclination to sink the head proper safeguard. Passengers are void space between two adjacent in the front side. To overcome not willing to wear the life jacket/ air tubes will provide extra this problem, multilayer structure life vest during their journey via buoyancy as well as the lightness is placed in the A and D region. waterway due to the discomfort to sPFD. Thus, the multilayer Right belly C and left belly E ability and bulkiness. This sPFD structure of sPFD is produced and is connected with front belly E will reduce the bulkiness and then distributed uniformly to the and lower back B. Mainly this improves the comfortability. specific region of the body shape region will provide the required Moreover, thousands of lives (see Figure 2) buoyant force and the A, D will will be saved during waterway give the extra protection. Human 2.3 Distribution of the buoyant accident by wearing this sPFD. body has natural tendency to material to the specific region Acknowledgement rotate clockwise heading to the When an accident occurs, the chest due to the different center We strongly acknowledge Dysinhaphazard movements of the body of gravity and center of the Chem Limited, a renowned textile are created. This movement can volume[17]. A and D is placed chemical manufacturer and easily sink any people into water in the upper side of the body to distributor who sponsored this no matter he can swim or not. So overcome this problem. When research. We especially thank all uniform distribution of the buoyant an accident is occurred, the GPS lab instructors of Research and material is required. We studied system will send the location and Development (R&D) Lab and the physical structure of the motion data of the affected people Accredited Lab of the Bangladesh human both man and women and to cloud sever. University of Textiles who provided found the suitable region to place expertise and good support during the multilayer structure (see Figure Air is used as buoyant material and our experiment. We also thank full the sPFD contain the air tube so 2). A and D is connected with each to Textile Today for all support as that there is possibility to punch other and help to keep the head well as for their great initiatives. the air tube. Due to have high above from the water level. resistance to punch out, ultra-thin Interest of conflict: The author A= Multilayer structure is placed bladder was used to diminish the has no interest of conflict to between neck and dorsum or back possibility. There is an opening in disclose. B= Multilayer structure is placed in every air tube by which amount of the lower back This research is supported by Dysin Cylindrical air tube
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 08
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Premium Corporate Member Skyros Trading Limited (STL): Skyros Trading Limited, an Apparel Sourcing/ buying Agent and supply chain management company, offers complete apparel sourcing solutions through its’ dynamic and highly professional set-up in the field of Ready-Made Garments (RMG) industry, established in 2009 with a turnover of approx. US $45 million a year. The Range of Garments
Mahbubur Rashid Sohel, Managing Director, Skyros Trading Limmited
Circular Knitwear includes T-Shirt, Polo Shirt, Tops, Trouser, Shorts, and Jackets etc. Fabrics are commonly used Single Jersey, Rib, French Terry, Interlock, Pique Polo, Lacoste, and Fleece etc. with different composition. Woven products are including Basic pant, Cargo pant, Trouser, Shorts, Shirts, Jacket and ranges of Denims. Fabrics are commonly used Twill, Canvas, Poplin, Rib stop, Calico and Denim with different fabric composition.
Flat knitwear includes Sweater/Pullover, Cardigan, Jumper, Vest, Scarf and Muffler etc. Gauges are 1.5GG, 3GG, 5GG, 7GG, 10GG, 12GG, and 14GG. Yarns are used from locally & imported and different kinds of composition. Major Customers: Lpp S.A, Poland; Carry Sp., Poalnd; Altex S.A, Greece; Gourand, French; Importation Rally, Canada, EWM, England; Slate & Stone, USA. Own Supply Chain: STL manages its own chain with specially appointed and nominated yarn, fabric and accessories suppliers. Skill Professional: STL sourcing solution prides itself over its highly efficient and motivated 40 staffs, from senior merchandisers to quality controllers, lab technicians to support staff.
Corporate Member Rashed Ahmed has an extensive experience in the field of Knitting and planning for last 11 years. He completed his B.Sc Engineering in Textile from the Primeasia University.
Engr. Rashed Ahmed Asst. General Manager (knitting) Aswad Composite Mills Ltd. (Palmal Group)
In his long service period now he is working as an Assistant General Manager (knitting and planning), Aswad Composite Mills Ltd (Palmal Group), from 2018. Before that he worked as a Deputy Manager from 2011 to 2013 and Knitting Manager in the same group from 2013 to 2017. In his long professional career he also worked as a Divisional Deputy Manager in the Fabric RnD Department at Interstoff Apparels Ltd and Production Officer in the Hypoid Knit Composite Ltd He is involved with many project works in the field of knitting and planning and has active participation of social work in the textile community.
In his leisure period he loves to Gardening, listening song and reading books.Asst. Manager Knitting n later promoted Deputy Manager in palmal from 2011 January to 2013 early.