March 2019 | Textile Today by Textile Today

Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 March 2019 www.textiletoday.com.bd

Volume 12 |

Issue 03 | 120 Pages |

BDT 200, USD 10

March 2019

New Market

New Product

Value Addition

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Reducing Cost

Sustainability

longevity

Innovation

March 2019

Profitability

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Productivity

U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

Not job cut, improving performance a must to reduce operational costs

A c t i v a t e Yo u r L i f e

Capacity building is more effective than reducing 'Management Costs' Unveiling industry best practices M arc h 201 9

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Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel Editor in Chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim Consulting Editor Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed

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Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir Rakibul Islam Al Takbir Mahim

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Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin

Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. ÂŠ All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018 Volume 12, Issue 03 (March 2019) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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Published on 27th March 2019 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd

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Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 March 2019

Bangladesh Textile Today

www.textiletoday.com.bd Volume 12 |

Issue 03 | 120 Pages |

BDT 200, USD 10

New Market

New Product

Value Addition

Productivity

Profitability

Reducing Cost

Sustainability

longevity

Innovation

See advertisement at page 19

Not job cut, improving performance a must to reduce operational costs Capacity building is more effective than reducing 'Management Costs'

March 2019

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Driving business with knowledge

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On the Cover

Editorial

30-32

Marchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 19 |

Jute Today

16-18

Yarn and fabric dumping pushing local millers to brink of the cliff

48-50

26-28

51-52

Cover Plus

SEZ is the first gateway for development of North Bengal

33-34

Export Today

RMG export jumps 14.17% in JulyFebruary

Investment Today

Bangladesh should brand its economic potentialâ&#x20AC;Ś

Top Story

Proposed gas price hike to hit textile & apparel sector hard

Workers' Today

Australian brands contributing to driving wages down, Oxfam reports

Capacity building is more effective than reducing 'Management Costs'

Ways to make RMG industry safe, sustainable for Bangladesh professionals

Editorial

Diversified jute products to restore the lost glory of golden fiber

36-40 Exclusive Interview

20-25

Issue 03

Factory Tales

45-47

Not job cut, improving performance a must to reduce operational costs

Cover Story

Volume 12 |

In this context, Investment behind technology or people- what should we prefer?

54-57

Spinning Today

The challenges of spinning industry and ways to cultivate success and assure sustainable development

Content Processing Today

Editorial Top to bottom of RFT dyeing

66-69

Effluent Processing

Invisible price of producing garment is concerning for environment

70-71

Marchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 19 |

knitting Today

81-82 Editorial

84-86 knitting Technology Pailung machine is good option for knitters to swell productivity and profitability

76-77

Sustainable Chemical

Biolase APC -a combined bio scouring & enzyme by Raas Biotech

99-102

Editorial

Digital textile printing to bring a new era for Bangladesh textile industry

104-107 Investment

Opportunities

Young entrepreneurs can start new business in screen printing

108-110 Printing Tales Intertextile showcased 4 key trends of Spring/Summer 2020

92-93 Textile Icon ZDHC conference shows the implementation of ....

Printing Today

89-90 Fashion Trend

Sustainable Processing

Chemical Management

Issue 03

More innovation and investment can boom Bangladesh's knitwear industry

Profitability vs performance: dyeing polyester-cellulosic blends

Volume 12 |

Bangladesh apparel enterprises moving ahead overcoming mammoth challenges

Impress-Newtex focuses on top quality printing

112

Event Review

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 2019 concluded successfully

Editorial

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Not job cut, improving performance a must to reduce operational costs In a recent development, Bangladeshi apparel makers have moved to reduce cost by cutting jobs in the mid-level management and to some extent workers. This is because of the rise in production costs due to adopting new technologies, implementation of new wage structure, which came into effect from December last year. The makers are making a huge amount of investment in automation, which posed a threat to the new employment generation in the $30 billion apparel sector. Since its journey in 1978, the sector now employs about 4.4 million workers mostly women. According to World Bank President Jim Yong Kim recent statement, about two-thirds of jobs in the developing world may

be lost due to automation. While the International Labor Organization (ILO) report on Textile and Clothing Sector in ASEAN states that the textile, clothing and footwear sector is at the highest risk of losing jobs due to automation. The present status of Bangladesh’s apparel sector in a small scale reflects the voice of the World Bank and ILO regarding the use of technology in production. In the given situation, panic gripped the mid-level managers and staffs, which impacting the productivity of the workers hurting the employers. “As an officer, I have to manage the total production floor and the productivity of the total team demands on the performance of mine,” Anisul Alam (not real name), a mid-level management

officer at an RMG factory located in Gazipur told Textile Today, while sharing his thoughts on the issues. Anisul also lost his immediate boss as the factory has terminated him in a bid to reduce operating costs. “The termination of my colleague made me afraid and I am a little bit in confusion about the future of my career, which cast a negative impact on my performance impacting the total team,” said Anisul. How to reduce cost without job cuts There is a common tendency among the employers of cutting jobs to reduce operational costs. But it is not good for the industry as it drives away skilled and potentials mid-level managers as well as a worker from the sector. So, in keeping the production and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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Editorial

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operational cost at a reasonable level, instead of making a huge investment on machinery upgradation, the makers should invest in human resource development. If it is done, they will contribute more in the production process.

The regional lender stressed on skilling more mid-level managers so that they can take the lead in increasing productivity and produce value-added goods to avoid the impact of new technology up-gradation. There are compelling reasons to remain optimistic about developing Asia in some areas such new technologies often automate only some tasks of jobs, technical feasibility does not guarantee economically feasible, rising income and demands and new occupations and industries, he added.

“In line with the inflation rate, the cost of living and other costs of doing businesses will go up and it is a common phenomenon. And in remaining competitive in the global market, everyone wants to reduce cost,” former caretaker government Advisor AB Mirza Azizul Islam told Textile Today.

Meanwhile, there is an important role from the government, which can help in making the mid-level managers and staffs more capable to remain in the jobs with training. The government has an important role to play in the leveraging technological advances for inclusive growth. The government has to play a role in the field of education and training, favorable labor regulation, social protection, tax policies, facilitate skills development and job making. Also, the provision of public goods and service and investment in ICT infrastructure said Sawada.

“But this should not be by cutting jobs.” To this end, an employer has to increase productivity first, then have to think to reduce another operational cost beyond the employees’ wages, said the economist. “In addition, the makers have to increase negotiation skill in getting a better price from the global buyers and retailers, while move should be given toward products diversification.” How to adopt technology without job cut In coping up with the world market trend, Bangladesh needs to upgrade technology in improving products quality. But the question is how much it will adopt and where to introduce. “There is growing concern that the new technologies could lead widespread job losses, a countervailing force is at work across the Asian region. And the

According to a ILO report on Textile and Clothing Sector in ASEAN states that the textile, clothing and footwear sector is at the highest risk of losing jobs due to automation.

Meanwhile, top management of apparel makers opined that workers education level and better training could be a safeguard against automation.

arrival of new technologies to cause a 17% decline of the labor force in the region,” Yasuyuki Sawada, Chief Economist of Asian Development Bank (ADB) said recently in the seminar on 'Impact of Emerging International Trade Relations on Bangladesh' held in Dhaka. “But there is hope as the market expansion absorbing more employee workers and technology are not being replaced workers everywhere in production.”

“In Bangladesh context, the education level of apparel workers is very low, while there is a lack of graduates in relevant fields. These are barriers in making them capable of new technology,” Mohammad Hasan Executive Director of Babylon group told Textile Today. While there is a lack of proper training in making the staff capable of new technology, if these two things can be ensuring, there is no risk of losing jobs, he added.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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Capacity building is more effective than reducing 'Management Costs' It is not wise just to increase capacity adding new machinery and make the management smaller to reduce cost. Investment and expenditure behind people always shift the business towards sustainability and give better capacity to remain competitive. Mohammad Nurul Alam Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturers are struggling on profitability due to higher production cost. Lower prices from brands and recent wage hike are contributing to increasing the cost more. Textile and apparel manufacturers are looking for ways to keep the cost affordable. Management staff is no exception to be considered as high cost by the textile and apparel manufacturers. To keep the overall salary expenses within a limit, recently many companies are looking for ways to reduce 'Management Costs’. Many staffs are being fired in this regard. Instead of investment behind the capacity building and employee training, the trend to shorten the size of the management staffs or limiting salary expense may not

be effective to save cost. This may lead the whole industry to cripple into collapse in the near future. So, it is high time for manufacturers to think twice before cutting the size of management staff. Cost for paying salaries to the management staffs For the textile and apparel manufacturing company’s contribution of the cost for paying salaries to the management staffs (staffs other than supervisors and workers) is usually very less. It is mostly less than 25 percent of the total salary. Management staffs and other types of decisionmaking jobs are classified as an exempt job. They are responsible for thinking operations, customer support, legal counsel, marketing, strategy engineering management,

program management, and finance. An error may cost him his life and several others, the cost of the company may billions of dollars. On the other hand, nonexempt jobs related to worker usually get a wage or an amount of money per hour and paid over-time. An error may not cost bigger than that of management staffs. So, a good pay for the management staffs highly important to keep the organization profitable and sustainable in the competitive market. Key responsibilities of management staffs A profit organization exists primarily to generate profit and aligns the team with profit goals. Hence the most important parts of running a business is

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

Te x t i l e M a n a g e m e n t

ď&#x192;ś

Cover Story

ď&#x20AC;&#x2022;

Capacity building project among the management staff

Improve innovation in product and process development

Improve machine efficiency and technology adoption

Figure 1: Infographs showing the importance of proficient management.

planning. Management staffs usually contribute in value addition, implementation as well as providing the resources and process discipline to enable and ensure the highest possible level of quality, reliability, and productivity at the lowest overall cost and securing profit. Management staffs also put efforts to build a productive, dynamic and sustainable business and ensure the industry to run for a successful robust business. Proper business execution is important to increase volume in production and reduce risk and make the business adaptable to the market and other changes. Below things should be considered before reducing management cost: Job insecurity and extra load on management staffs: Unless building capacity in the management staff the trend of reducing 'Management Costs' by direct and indirectly cut off management size is resulting job insecurity in the organization. This is an extra load on management staffs for chances of losing the position and to search for new job opportunities, as a whole the organization is becoming less innovative and rigid to

Bangladesh Textile Today |

ď&#x201E;? Today it is well understood that investments behind human provide a fastest and safest return. Textile Today Training is integrating the resources joining hands with many experts and organizations to create an effective platform for helping the industries to transform their human capital.

changes and development in the individuals. Focusing to increase value addition may not effective: Most of the textile and apparel industries are focusing to increase value addition to innovate in product and process development rather invest behind people. Instead of creating strong marketing team to reach out to better markets, instead of an

Volume 12, Issue 03

employee development plan by training if the textile and apparel companies reduce 'Management Costs' resizing management part in number and salary strategically the whole sector once again may cripple into collapse in near future. Investment behind innovation and productivity: If the key challenge for the sector is to increase profitability, the approach companies should have taken is to increase investment behind innovation, improving business processes to increase efficiency, productivity and performance as if the company become adaptive and less prone to market shift. The innovation will not only improve the chances of business surviving but also help it to thrive and drive increased profits. Investment behind technology: Technology Adoption is good but needs to be careful if that technology doesn't reduce scopes of being innovative and adaptable to change. Big investment behind technology may reduce the cost of per unit product today but it may make the industry captive to limited products, processes etc. The industry is making another great mistake as they did previously by just increasing capacity adding new machinery,

Cover Story

now making management smaller and incapable depending mainly on technology, the companies in future may become more captive other value chain players. Investment behind capacity building among the management staff Employee development can be seen as a benefit by offering training, continuing education, conference attendance or even something reading practice of a book, professional magazine to be updated in the same line of the modern world for process and technology adaption. It has been proven that investment and expenditure behind management people always shift the business towards sustainability and give better capacity to remain competitive. Capacity building project among the management staff, on the contrary, make business lively, innovative, and creative and can help fight

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Te x t i l e M a n a g e m e n t

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any sort of market change and challenge.

limited management staff can be offensive and unproductive.

Figure 1 shows how investment behind management staff by offering training can improve process development as well as the machine’s productivity. Because men run the machine and apply new process so investment behind people is more effective rather than investment in automation or process development.

So, it is high time for manufacturers to think twice in reducing their capacity to deal with changes.

On the other hand, fast fashion is a high changing world. Once the industry adopts a high-cost technology, it is very costly to change. But people are much easy and fast changeable. And sometimes by reducing a number of management staff and more centralizing the power within limited management people may drive the business towards more one-man-show. The consequent is lack of innovation and delay decision over the problem by the

Today it is well understood that investments behind human provide a fastest and safest return. Textile Today Training is integrating the resources joining hands with many experts and organizations to create an effective platform for helping the industries to transform their human capital. The campaign of Textile Today named ‘Transforming Human Capital’ is helping to create awareness on the importance of professional level on job learning and training. Besides Intertek-SEIP, BKMEASEIP, BGMEA-SEIP, BUTEC-SEIP etc. are some collaborations under which institutions are providing training to build a skilled workforce in the textile and apparel sector.

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Ways to make RMG industry safe, sustainable for Bangladesh professionals Ashfaque Ahmed, MSC. (University of Manchester, MBA (IBA-DU), BSc. Textile (BUTEX) Introduction Ready-made-garment export is the lifeline of the Bangladesh economy. According to the last report Bangladesh has earned more than 83 percent of its export earnings from this sector (Nikkei Asian Review, 2018) where the total RMG export in the last fiscal year 2017-18 was US$33.93 billion (BGMEA, 2019). How much of this huge export is accounted for our own benefit? Is the textile and garment industry safe and sustainable for the local professionals? The industry has its own way to find solutions through different stakeholders- buyers, factory owners, governments, NGOs, buying offices, human right activists, local government, etc. Let us see the types of workforce we have in the garment industry, the evolution of the availability of skilled workforce, building capacity for the future workforce, expats working in Bangladesh,

and our responsibility to leverage own hard work and intelligence to retain our hard-earned foreign currency in our own country. Workforce in Bangladesh garment industry If we divide the workforce in the garment industry then there are broadly four categories: 1. G arment workers including supervisors, line-chiefs, QCs, helpers, etc.

Self-reliance in the technical and managerial workforce

2. Sub-sector workers 3. S upport staffs, including clerks, peons, chefs, guards, etc. and 4. P rofessionals- CEO, Executive Directors, GMs, Managers, Merchandisers, QA, and Inspectors, The latter workforce is the intelligence of our garment industry. They are the brains for the industry who really run the show by means of managing, operating, giving technical

support, and marketing the factory products. There is a government concern about increasing the wages of workers, government employees etc. but this group is the most hard-working people in the country for them there is no wage board, no government intervention on illegal employment of foreign expats, no legal retirement benefits, no medical benefit, etc.

When the textile and garments industry started in the late ‘70s, it was the Japanese and Koreans who brought those orders and tried to find local partners to make the shipment. In the ’80s, quota benefit attracted investors from all around the world and they hired professionals from their own country as well as from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines. ’90s was the era for mushrooming of knit composite

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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Figure: Bangladeshi professionals- CEO, Executive Directors, GMs, Managers, Merchandisers, QA, and Inspectors are the brains for the garment industry who really run the show.

factories because of comparatively lower initial investment cost and a handful of local textile engineers dared to run them. This industry showed us that we could run the factories with our own capabilities. After 2000, it is probably the golden decade for Bangladesh textile and garments industry amid negative speculations of post MFA era, when local professionals started to replace those foreign nationals in managerial positions, maintaining the export growth, graduates from local textile and fashion universities take up the communications quite strongly, worked out the chemical threats and child labor issues. Just when it looked like Bangladesh is all set to become next RMG sourcing hotspot by securing 2nd largest apparel exporter ‘Tazreen Fashions Fire’ and Rana Plaza Collapse’ brought a big question mark on country’s safe handling of the work environment. In the last 5 years, Bangladesh textile and garments industry has done well with Accord and Alliance for a rapid improvement in that area. Building capacity in the workforce Bangladesh has signed the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

 Bangladesh has become 4th largest remittance source for India with US$10 billion in 2017. They also reported that about 1 million Indian workers working in Bangladesh, mostly, through illegal channels. As per Reserve Bank of India, this amount is deposited in different Indian banks with the declaration. The actual value through non-declaration could be even higher. According to a Indian publication Daily Industry (2018) MDG and SDG where it will give a mammoth growth in our economy by achieving those targets by 2030 (SDG, 2017). This target was set mainly based on our ability to achieve US$50 billion export target from RMG by 2021 (Textile Today, 2018). To maintain this growth, we need to increase our export quantity by increasing productivity or doing

Volume 12, Issue 03

more value-added products or increasing the number of factories as well as a number of workers and professionals in textile and garments industry. Recently, the government has taken steps to enhance the quality of our professionals by arranging free training for them (Islam and Islam, 2018). We also need lots of vocational, TVET institutes for technical professionals, and make as much space in the industry for managerial professionals. It is obvious that the local professionals alone are capable of running the whole textile and apparel industry. It is a matter of sorrow that there are still many factories who hire foreign nationals in key positions. What is the number of expats? According to The Daily Star dated December 31, 2016, the number of foreign employees working in the RGM sector is about 200,000 (Two Lakhs). In the year 2014, they draw nearly US$5 billion as salary and allowances. From September 2009 to September 2019, a total of 7,030 work permits were issued. In 2014, The Board of Investment (BOI) issued 3,511 extensions and in 2013, it was

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Bangladesh’s garment exports 40

Ready-made garment export (in billions of dollars)

Share of total exports (in percent)

UAE

100

United

Soudi A

Bangla

Kuwait

0 1983 ‘85

‘90

‘95

2000

‘05

‘10

‘15 ‘17

Source: BGMEA

2,907. From this data, it is quite evident that most of the foreign nationals working in this country under illegal contract and totalare exports residing without valid documents (in violating percent) the immigration rule of an independent 100 country. New Age (2018) in one of their recent issues has claimed that more than 5 lakh foreign75 nationals are working in Bangladesh and the same amount as reported by The Daly Star in 2015 is50 draining the hard earned foreign currency out of the Country. The sectors include apparel, textile, buying 25 house, telecommunication, information technology, poultry, and poultry feed sector. 0

Remittance Inflow of India in 2017

nt exports

hare of

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‘10

‘15 ‘17

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturer Association (BGMEA) after enquired 5,000 of its member factories to submit a report of a number of foreign employees they have. Only 233 of those member factories replied out of those 5,000 factories. As a matter of fact, most of those expats do not have a legal work permit and this is the reason factories cannot report them to BGMEA. Foreigners and expats mainly come from India, Sri Lanka, China, Pakistan, South Korea, Taiwan, and some European and African Countries as per security and immigration sources.

UAE

12.575 billion

United States

10.657 billion

Soudi Arabia

10.225 billion

Bangladesh

10.00 billion

Kuwait

4.173 billion

Qatar

3.769 billion

3.585 billion

Oman

2.917 billion

Bahrain

2.744 billion

Canada

2.617 billion

Indian publication, Daily Industry (2018), in their report showed that Bangladesh has become 4th largest remittance source for India with US$10 billion in 2017. They also reported that about 1 million Indian workers working in Bangladesh, mostly, through illegal channels. As per Reserve Bank of India, this amount is deposited in different Indian banks with the declaration. The actual value through non-declaration could be even higher. Though Bangladeshi

E-paper, Daily Sun (2018), has claimed it to be false news and further claimed that Bangladesh earns 35 times that of India earns from us. Such contradictory reports reflect our level of patriotism towards solving the drainage from remittance outflow. Threat from foreign professionals

A Study carried out by Islam et. Al (2017) for Center of Excellence for Bangladesh Apparel Industry (CEBAI) revealed that expats have specialized skills in communication, negotiation, leadership, decision-making, and operational skill and are reported to be paid two to five times higher than the local professionals. Categorically, we cannot say that professionals working in our textile and RMG industry are facing tough competition from foreign nationals. It is because most of our local professionals are nowadays

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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highly educated, experienced, and gained industry exposure to run by themselves. Then why are we nourishing such highly paid foreign nationals against our national interest? For decades, our textile and RMG factory owners believed that foreign experts are more skilled and there are a few still believe the same way. Firstly, it is not uncommon not to get the best result with some specific local professional but from here making a generalization would be a fallacy. Secondly, it is also a part of some bad politics. There are lots of liaison offices working in Bangladesh. Many of those offices, mostly US-based, controlled by their regional office located in our neighboring country. In those offices, the decision-making employees are foreign national from a neighboring country. The factory people doing marketing is also from that country. Even many professionals and technicians of that factory are also from that foreign country. It is like making of a little cantonment or a gang of foreigners in those buying office and factories whereas the same responsibilities (may not be the purpose) can be served by local professionals at a low cost. The reason I mentioned purpose because social and cultural aspects should not be a bar in international business which is greatly driven by technical knowledge and most of the people nowadays understand the English language. The possibility of unethical trading as a team cannot be denied too. Lastly, many of the owners are accused of money laundering by using their highly paid foreign employees as a medium for transferring money to other countries. Most of these foreign professionals working in this textile and RMG industries do not have a valid work permit. Most of those come to Bangladesh in tourist visas and

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extend their visa by liaising with immigration officials. There are lots of talk about this but no action had been taken about this very simple legal matter. Bangladesh has been a target of terrorist attacks and it is not unlikely that there are foreign agents dwelling in Bangladesh in the guise of a garment expert. Most of the foreign offices employ Country Managers preferred to be non-Bangladeshi. The government must check their skill, experience and managerial capacity in order

ď&#x201E;? Nowadays, there are young breeds from public and private universities educated in textile engineering, fashion design, business administration, physical science, applied arts, and many of them having a foreign degree from renowned universities. They could be a much better worker for now and for the future who can work for the company for the rest of his/ her life.

delivery, on the other hand, push us to be 10 cents cheaper than last season. This whole thing is not only relegating our good name in the international market but also the country is renounced from foreign currency. Most ridiculous thing is that you got to ask this question when, why and where we do need a foreign expert. It is not only the case that they are working as Country Managers or General Managers. They are working massively in woven mills and we should admit that we might still have some lacking in that area, especially in dyeing and finishing. But you will find them working in laboratories, R&D, warping, sizing, and looming, etc. areas too. Though Bangladesh is a forerunner in knit composite but yet you will find foreign professionals in knitting, dyeing, finishing and even in cutting, pattern making, sample making, quality control, fashion design, washing plants, accessories factories, fabric marketing, yarn marketing, etc. However, I must not admit that there are a few advantages of hiring foreign professionals. They work hard because they do not have any social works here. They do not leave the job in short notice. An office with foreign staffs gives customers the feeling of visiting in a multinational corporation. And of course, individuals have their own personal charisma which makes them different from others.

to give them work permit with a valid reason for working in Bangladesh.

Recommendations

One of the reasons buyers need them is to screw prices, put penalties and recover claims. Whereas, in such position, a local national would perform much better at reasonable price to get the right quality for on-time shipment. Understanding the local culture is very important for the Country Managers. If you talk to any of them working here for more than 10 years will speak very badly about our working condition,

It is very easy to leave some recommendations to improve the present scenario. Ironically, everybody understands the fact but do not take any actions about it. Firstly, we need the correct data. The Ministry of Labor and Employment does not have any data related to the actual number of foreign employees working in our country. According to various reports, it could be higher than a staggering 1 million foreign workers

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Te x t i l e P r o f e s s i o n a l s

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and from valid sources, it is half a million workers. We need the actual count in order to control it. Secondly, MNCs often assign expatriate to facilitate knowledge transfer and enhance foreign direct investment purpose. Here is this case, we need to check the capability of the foreign expats working here to teach our technicians, managers. In case, they are here only to learn we are making big accounting mistake by assuming them as FDI. Thirdly, according to the Income Tax Ordinance 1984, tax officials can impose a penalty on companies up to 50 percent of their total payable income tax, or BDT 5 lakh, and deny all other tax benefits as a fine for hiring unauthorized foreigners. It is now up to the integrity of the tax department to investigate those or they keep quiet of being allured with greater personal benefits. There are also a few other recommendations which are the key topic for today’s discussion. That is, how to make our textile and RMG industry safe and sustainable for Bangladeshi professionals. Many of our textile and garment owners complain about the poor knowledge and English literacy of our local professionals. It is very common that academic knowledge, experience, and English as communication will not be the same for everybody. In general, the expats working in our industry has on an average better English. This does not mean that there is no local professional who speaks better English than expats. Nowadays, there are young breeds from public and private universities educated in textile engineering, fashion design, business administration, physical science, applied arts, and many of them having a foreign degree from renowned universities. They could be a much better worker for now and for the future who can work for the company for the rest of

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his/ her life. There must be some professional institutes like there is for Doctors, Engineers, or even Lawyers where the professional institutes will be able to certify the employability, and also conduct technical and management workshop, a symposium to improve the skills and knowledge of local professionals. It is natural, in Bangladesh, to have good demand for technicians, managers, merchandisers, marketers, etc. However, we have

 If we compare the compensation package between the expat and local professionals then there is a big difference. If the local professional is more qualified we still do not want to offer the same package that we offer to a foreign professional with more than US$10,000 as salary plus house rent US$2,000 plus airfare twice a year with family and profit bonus. How could we expect the same dedication from a local professional?

complaints about them that they leave the job even with a small raise from other companies. One of the most popular theories on motivation was given by Frederick Herzberg (1959) which sets forth management theories for workers. He believed that workers are motivated anything other than money. Those are praise, responsibility, achievement, and advancement. Our industry owners are in fact lagging behind in their knowledge in management

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Cover Plus

theories by believing in Taylor (1900) theory where money is the only motivator. Many of the factory owners are applying Herzberg theory in practices, and there are a lot of examples where the best performers in the industry are management hires young managers, gives them the responsibility, praise them while performing, rewards when achieves and promote them as advancement. In today’s world, everybody wants to have a young worker who is keen to learn. It is because of the change in technology, work processes, motivational factors, etc. As the phrase says, “unlearning is difficult than learning”, it is wise to recruit young staff who later is trained with various on the job training so as to capable of giving new knowledge for improving the work process. If we compare the compensation package between the expat and local professionals then there is a big difference. If the local professional is more qualified we still do not want to offer the same package that we offer to a foreign professional with more than US$10,000 as salary plus house rent US$2,000 plus airfare twice a year with family and profit bonus. How could we expect the same dedication from a local professional giving only a part of it and expecting he would sacrifice all his social and personal life? For real professional, they deliver results not his working hours like foreign professional work in Bangladesh. Next thing is that the factory owners must introduce pension and gratuity like other countries which are used as an effective tool against employee’s turnover. Richard Branson, one of today’s most illustrious and successful entrepreneur, quoted about employees, “Clients do not come first. Employees come first. You take care of your employees, they will take care of your clients”.

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Proposed gas price hike to hit textile & apparel sector hard Textile Today Analysis

Figure : Bangladesh’s textile and apparel industry will sink if the newly proposed gas price hike comes into effect. [Courtesy: Energy & Power]

Fear gripped the country’s $33 billion apparel exporters as the gas distribution companies have proposed to hike prices of gas for the industry, which will increase the production cost of the sector. In addition, the primary textile sector, the backward linkage industry of the readymade garment sector, also to bear brunt of gas price hike as the sector is dependent on captive power. The apparel sector is already in the trouble as production cost went up due to the implementation of new wage structure and for investments in safety standards improvement.

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another jerk for the sector as the production cost will go further up.

“A further hike in gas price will be disastrous for the apparel industry as well as textile sector and the owners will be forced to shut factories due to the burden of production costs.

In a recent move, gas distribution companies have proposed Bangladesh Energy Regulatory Commission (BERC) to increase prices of gas includes industries, power, fertilizer, households and other customers for a gas price hike of up to 60%.

Mohammad Hatem MD, MB Knit Fashion Talking to Textile Today, sector people said the new proposal of hiking the gas prices would be

In the proposals, the distributors of gas have proposed to increase prices of gas from Tk7.76 per cubic feet to Tk15.70 per cubic feet or 93% for the industry, while it proposed to rise by 63% to Tk15.70 per cubic feet from Tk9.62 per cubic feet.

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To p S t o r y

Meanwhile, the authority also proposed to increase prices of gas by 17% to Tk20 per cubic feet from Tk17.04 per cubic feet. The government wants to hike prices of gas to reduce the burden of subsidies as it has to buy per cubic meter of LNG at Tk32 and selling it at Tk7.17. In setting the new prices of the gas, the regulator is going to hold a hearing on the price hike on March 11, 12, 13 and 15, 2019. Bangladesh to lose a competitive edge in the global market “In recent years, production cost in the apparel sector has gone up by manifold caused by the safety improvement expenses. While the new wage implementation expedited the rise of production cost,” Mohammad Hatem Managing Director of MB Knit Fashion told the Textile Today. “On the other hand, global buyers and retaliates are not increasing prices of goods rather they cut it.” In the given situation, a further hike in gas price will be disastrous for the apparel industry as well as textile sector and the owners will be forced to shut factories due to the burden of production costs,” said Hatem also a leader of Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB). I think the government should first consult with the industry people and consider the capacity of the textile and apparel industry. Based on the bilateral talks outcome, the government should set the prices, so that it cannot hurt the industry, said Hatem. If the prices of gas go up once again, it will eat up Bangladesh’s competitiveness in the global market due to rise in production cost and the competitors will take the opportunity in grabbing export market share, he further said. “Textile sector is highly dependent

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Gas Price

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on captive power and the distributors proposed a whopping 63% increase. If the government increased the prices of gas based on the demands, the sector will fall into deep crisis,” Bangladesh Textile Mills Association President Mohammad Ali Khokon told the Textile Today. The sector employs over 3 million people and invested about $7 billion, so considering the investment and impact on the society government should not increase the price of gas, said Mohammad. The policy should be long term On top of that sector, people urged the government to set long-

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Regarding the policy on gas price, economists also echoed the private sector voice and support the demands of long-term policy and keeping the price within limits to help grow the investment. “Government needs to increase revenues in reducing the subsidies and to increase income to meet the development costs. But it should not be hurting the industrialization,” former caretaker government advisor AB Mirza Azizul Islam told the Textile Today. Prices should be reasonable and the policy must be stable. Otherwise, it will have a lasting impact on investment and manufacturing industry hindering employment, life support for reducing unemployment, said the economist. Why textile apparel sector needs attention

Frequent changes in policy is a barrier to invest, while it hinders the stability on investments both from home and abroad.

RMG sector, the $30 billion industry with 4.4 million workers mostly women, contributes over 83% to the national exports. So, trouble in the sector will hurt the export earnings as well as the economy since the Bangladesh economy is driven by export.

Abdus Salam Murshedy, MD, Envoy Textile

term energy policy for the exportoriented manufacturing industry. “In attracting investments from home and abroad, the policy should be predictable so that an investor can take decisions in making new investors,” Abdus Salam Murshedy former president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association BGMEA) told the Textile Today. Frequent changes in policy is a barrier to invest, while it hinders the stability on investments both from home and abroad, said Salam, also Managing Director of Envoy Textile.

In the first eight months of the current fiscal year, the RMG sector has contributed $23.12 billion to the national exports of $27.56 billion posting a 14.17% rise. In the same period last year, the apparel sector earned $20.25 billion. Of the total, knitwear products earned $11.49 billion posting a 13.50% growth, while woven products contributed $11.63 billion, a rise of 14.840%. In the previous year, the earnings were $10.12 billion and $10.13 billion respectively. However, In the July-February period of the current fiscal year, Bangladesh earned $27.56 billion, up by 12.98%, comparing $24.39 billion in the same period a year ago.

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E x p o r t To d a y

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RMG export jumps 14.17% in July-February Bangladesh RMG industry, the prime exporting sector, has earned US$23.12 billion in the July-February period of the fiscal year 2018-19 Staff Correspondent In July-February period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the readymade garment sector went up by 14.17% to US$23.12 billion, which was US$20.25 billion in the same period last year, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data. The sector has exceeded the export target set for the period. The earnings from the sector were 7.97% higher than the target of $21.42 billion set for the period. Of the total amount, knitwear products earned $11.5 billion, which is 13.5% higher than the same period a year ago. Woven products drew more than $11.64 billion, up by 14.84% compared with the corresponding period a year earlier. Terming the growth 'satisfactory' considering the present apparel prices and global demand, garment sector leaders stressed the need for enhancing price competitiveness, productivity and government policy support to sustain competitiveness. Mahmud Hasan Khan, Vice President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), opined that woven subsector's growth was still below expectations. "Local woven item makers have been struggling to cope with new challenges as their buyers are reducing the volume of orders following failure to meet lead time," Mahmud Hasan said. Without efficient port and strong

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: July-February period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the RMG sector went up by 14.17% to US$23.12 billion.

backward linkage industry, especially for the woven subsector, it might not be possible for the subsector to achieve the growth and earnings as expected, Hasan mentioned. “Maintaining a moderate export earnings growth in the current financial year is a good sign for the readymade garment sector but there are some concerns as the volume of RMG export is increasing but not the value,” Centre for Policy Dialogue Distinguished Fellow Mustafizur Rahman said. He also opined that diversification was needed within the RMG and manufacturers would have to go for value-added products to remain competitive in the global market. Mustafiz also urged that the government should take initiatives to make the non-RMG products competitive in the global market to attain the required economic

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growth in the future. According to the data, export earnings from leather and leather products fell by 11.50% to $694.72 million in July-February of FY19 from $784.97 million in the same period of FY18. Export earnings from leatherfootwear increased by 7.62% to $393.31 million while leather products fetched $222.87 million with a 42.05% negative growth in the period. Export earnings from jute and jute goods in July-February of FY19 fell by 24.36% to $560.56 million from $741.12 million in the same period of FY18. Export earnings from specialized textiles (Chapter 58-60) in JulyFebruary of FY19 increase by 42.13% to $98.21 million from $69.1 million in the same period of FY18. Chapter 58-60 include terry towel (5802), specially woven fabric (59) and knitted fabrics (60).

J u t e To d a y

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Product Diversification

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Diversified jute products to restore the lost glory of golden fiber Staff Correspondent Shamima Binte Tanha, a government employee cannot believe herself, whether she is visiting a textile exposition or an exhibition on jute diversified goods. This happened when she touched a Saree made of jute and displayed at a two-day Diversified Jute Products Fair on National Jute Day 2019 and the held at Bangabandhu International Conference Centre (BICC) on March 6. Not only Shamima but also everyone who visited the exhibition became puzzled after seeing the variety of jute diversified goods for clothing, ornament and home decoration. I never thought of seeing such beautiful and quality Sarees and three pieces made of jute, Shamima Binte Tanha told the reporter, while buying goods from the expo. In addition, household decorative goods were very attractive to me, she added. Since the goods made of jute is very decorative in beautifying the home, I always choose it for my home decoration, Jamal Uddin, a banker told the Textile Today. On top of that, the goods of jute are biodegradable and environment-friendly. As a conscious woman my preference is diversified jute goods for all aspects, he added. In the exposition, exhibitors were very happy as they received a good response from the buyers especially from home.

Figure: visitors were amazed to see the diversified jute products.

Industry people gave credit to the government’s initiatives, which is paving the ways to retrieve the sectors glory. As of last year, sales of diversified jute goods stood at about Tk7 billion in the home and abroad market.

 If the government provides more policy support in reaching out the global buyers, we will be able to export goods worth billion dollars as the demands of jute diversified goods are increasing very fast in the global markets.

jute bags (ladies, school, executive, laptop), purses, bed sheet, sofa cover, blankets, curtain, floor mat, sweater, blazers, gents and ladies shoes, Sarees, Ornaments and ornament boxes ladies three pieces and home décor items. “For the last couple of years, sales of diversified jute goods picked up and we are witnessing 15% to 20% yearly growth,” Iman Hossain, Director of Ifty Craft told the Textile Today.

Iman Hossain Director, Ifty Craft

In the given status of the sector, it is very clear that jute diversified products come up with hope in restoring the glory of jute once known as the golden fiber of Bangladesh, opined the sector people while sharing views with the Textile Today.

If the government provides more policy support in reaching out the global buyers, we will be able to export goods worth billion dollars as the demands of jute diversified goods are increasing very fast in the global markets, said Iman. However, there are challenges

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J u t e To d a y

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Product Diversification

Diversified jute goods

Jute bags

Sofa cover

Different types of apparel Blankets Bed sheet

Floor mat Curtain Shoes to attain the target and connect buyers. Meanwhile, several exhibitors, who took part, shared their sorrows of not getting international buyers, while they are in crying needs for government steps and financial subsidy in participating the expo in abroad. “Bangladeshi manufacturer’s jute-diversified goods have a wide range of products lists with a reasonable price offering to the global market. While there are huge demands of it in the global market. But the problem is finding a foreign buyer,” Mohammad Ali Khan of Hand Touch told the Textile Today.

Bangladesh has to concentrate on research to learn about the products line, potential markets,” said Rashedul, Managing Director of Creation Jute Limited. In addition, financial support for exploring markets as the number of entrepreneurs and market size has increased but the incentives remained same, said Rashedul Karim Munna, Secretary General of Bangladesh Jute Diversified Product Manufactures and Exporter Association (BJDPMEA) told the Textile Today. And my suggestion is on creating a network between buyers and makers and creating branding to the globe, he added.

It costs Tk7-8 lakh to participate in the expo in EU and America or Japan. It is very difficult to join for a small entrepreneur, said Ali.

On top of that, experts called for creating opportunity in the domestic ground to showcase goods to attract global buyers.

Though the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) is helping but it is too insufficient, he claimed.

“It is not possible for a small maker to join an expo in a foreign country. So, arranging exposition in the domestic grown can enable them to showcase,” former Caretaker Government Advisor AB Mirza Azizul Islam told the Textile Today.

In tapping the opportunity of the export market, Ali urged the government in providing financial support to explore the market and customers. “In taking the advantage of global demands of jute-diversified goods,

On top of that, the government should rethink about the incentives

and create more opportunity for the emerging sector as it would reduce dependency on a single sector, said Islam. He also suggested to ensuring more participation of entrepreneurs in the foreign expo and to this end subsidy can be a solution. According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, in JulyFebruary of the current fiscal year, Bangladesh earned $560.56 million exporting jute and jute goods, down by 24.36%, which was $711.23 million in the same period a year ago. Of which Jute good earned 86.85 million, jute yarn and twine $341.25 million and jute sack, bags fetched $62.64 million and other goods $70 million. According to Jute Diversification Promotion Center (JDPC), there are 232 items of diversified jute goods including jute bags (ladies, school, executive, laptop), purses, bed sheet, sofa cover, blankets, curtain, floor mat, sweater, blazers, gents and ladies shoes, Sarees, Ornaments and ornament boxes ladies three pieces and home decor items.

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Textile Today Question of the Month To keep the overall salary expenses within a limit, in a context of increasing wages of the workers, recently the textile and apparel companies are looking for ways to reduce 'Management Costs'. In this regard, companies are firing management level professionals and adopting new technologies. Instead of investing behind people focusing to increase value addition to innovate in product and process development and instead of creating strong marketing team to reach out to better markets, if the textile and apparel companies reduce 'Management Costs' strategically the whole sector once again may cripple into collapse in near future. Technology adoption is good but we need to be careful if that technology doesn't reduce our scopes of being innovative and adaptable to change. Investment behind people, on the contrary, make business lively, innovative, and creative and can help fight any sort of market change and challenge.

In this context, Investment behind technology or people- what should we prefer?

,, ,, Jamal Abdun Naser Director, Shasha Denims Ltd.

Our textile and apparel industry is moving forward with new technology and immensely investing in machinery for better productivity. We have no investment in human capital who will drive the technology. As a denim manufacturer, our main portion is the R&D department. We need skilled manpower who will lead the overall department. We need to bridge the gap between universities and the industry to make efficient manpower. If u make and invest in human capital all the challenges can be mitigated. I think we need up-to-date machinery as well as efficient people for sustainable business.

Salman A Rahman Director, Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd & BTMA

Rafee Mahmood Director, Mahmud Group.

Disproportionate investment in technology definitely will create an imbalance in any organization. To achieve the maximum efficiency of a machine we must need to increase the manpower efficiency. I would say that will be more feasible and sustainable and balanced investment in the long run. Another focal point should be optimizing our worker's efficiency to equal or even better from our neighboring countries. Then I think we will be able to bring back the extra costs we are paying. So, we should invest equally on technology and people to achieve our target.

When it comes to prioritizing between human expertise and machine-based technology, the answer is unquestionably human. Because a creative mind will always prevail over any technology or AI.

However, if you look at the current scenario, you will see, both Textile and RMG industry is facing a mighty pressure from all ends. Making survival in this business a complex task. I believe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high time we get long term government support to mitigate the undertrained mid-level management challenge. We need support from our government. As the government can help us grow by keeping the gas price affordable, controlling land ports and illegal import of raw materials and yarn, in that case, we will be able to provide more employment and better wages.

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Textile Today Question of the Month

,, ,, Redwan R. Chowdhury Director (HR & Ethical Trades), Echotex Ltd

Price is the major challenge of the RMG sector. Every day we are negotiating with our buyers, as the production cost is ever increasing. That is why we are adopting automation for better productivity.

As well as we are improving our worker's efficiency through proper training. Besides our technology providers train our management.

And I hope every factory should invest in human capital development by setting up own training department, from management to worker level. As we are entering the 4th industrial revolution, we need more efficient and skilled people who will drive the technology for better productivity.

A.K.M Saifur Rahman Farhad Head of Merchandising & Marketing of Interlink Dresses

Manpower is one of the core assets of our RMG industry. Factories should focus on ways to increase manpower efficiency.

Mohammad Showket Iqbal, Deputy General Manager-HR, Epyllion Group

Technology has changed the way how we do business, interacting with customers and how we deal with data. According to research, technology help to increase employee’s productivity and employee engagement. But everyone should invest in tech based on their business needs and budgets. Investment at the right time in the right technology should be the top priority for any business. Furthermore, every business should not shift to new technology just because it is new and innovative. Investment behind talented people on the contrary and give them the freedom to create, they will be able to test, experiment and build something innovative. Education, Experience, and Research help to be being innovative and creative and thus investment in talented people is topmost. When a company invests in talented people, they will research the market and based on the market research and business need, they will understand which tech will be needed for the business and will work accordingly. Hence, Investment behind people and technology both are equally important for sustainable development of a business.

Vice versa, we should focus on our management efficiency. Particularly the mid-level management challenge that we face as well. As it is common that most of the time we cannot delegate much to our mid-level management because we did not properly train them up as well.

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Exclusive Interview

Bangladesh should brand its economic potential… H. E. Harry Verweij, the Netherlands Ambassador to Bangladesh

A very good trade relation is prevailing between Bangladesh and the Netherlands. The trade relation between the two countries ranges from agricultural products and services to industrial products and services. However, almost 85% of the exports to the Netherlands are apparel products. According to a recent data, total apparel export from Bangladesh to the Netherlands was $986.93 million in 2018. The Netherlands has been supporting Bangladesh through providing financial and technical aid to water resources and coastal management projects in Bangladesh. It is also assisting Bangladesh in enhancing its business enabling environment. On 12 March, H. E. Harry Verweij, The Netherlands Ambassador to Bangladesh shared several issues with Team Textile Today.

How do you see the growth of Bangladesh? How do you evaluate the contribution of the textile and apparel industry in Bangladesh’s economic growth? H. E. Harry Verweij: Bangladesh has progressed tremendously in the last 10 years. I would say that the economic growth of this country has been remarkable and impressive. And if you compare this with many other nations in the world, Bangladesh really stands out. The country is progressing to become a middle-income country and with the current pace upper middle-income is also possible. I guess that Bangladesh will achieve upper middle-income status by 2030. In terms of development, the Bangladesh economy is becoming more mature. Economic growth has been very impressive. This is not to say that all the problems are solved. Of course, many people have been taken out of poverty, but still, there is still over 30 million people who

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ď&#x20AC;&#x2022; Exclusive Interview

I think there are some further opportunities to explore. Be it governance, engineering, or sustainable solutions. We think we can expand our relationship with Bangladesh on those levels. We have been working very hard on waste management issues and inspection units. We are onboard with many aspects of the garment industry which go well beyond just being a trading partner. For the other part of the question, I think there is room for further economic expansion in terms of trade between the Netherlands and Bangladesh in other sectors than RMG. There are opportunities for joint ventures between Netherlands companies and Bangladeshi companies in the more general sense. And I consider it my personal aim and goal to expand our trade relations. We will focus on the maritime and agricultural sectors.

H. E. Harry Verweij, the Netherlands Ambassador to Bangladesh

continue to live in extreme poverty. I feel that the Bangladesh government is working towards developing into a sustainable growing economy. Textile Toaay: Every year Netherland imports a large number of apparel products from Bangladesh. But overall apparel exports to the Netherlands is not satisfactory. How Bangladesh can boost its apparel export to the Netherlands more? H. E. Harry Verweij: Dutch brands under the textile covenant do business with 238 producers in Bangladesh. Almost all brands have participated in the Bangladesh Accord. I think in terms of our relationship in the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

garments industry, the Netherlands plays a very limited role with 1% of the world market, but in terms of sustainability, the Dutch textile sector plays a pioneering role internationally. This is reinforced by the close cooperation with the German textile partnership. The Netherlands is also a major player in the Bangladesh textile industry from a development perspective, mainly due to the financing (together with the UK and Canada) of our flagship project - the ILO RMG program. This program trains the labor inspectorate and inspects the factories outside Accord (and Alliance). The ILO plays a coordinating role.

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In terms of Dutch foreign investments, we are still in the top 10 list of foreign investments in Bangladesh. There is scope for change in the export trade disparity. I think we could even improve on that. That is another goal for which Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m working for. Textile Toaay: G Star Raw is a major Dutch buyer of Bangladeshi apparel products. How important is sustainable apparel manufacturing in Bangladesh for Dutch brands? H. E. Harry Verweij: We have a few important Dutch brands, that as I said before, work with about 238 factories in Bangladesh from which Dutch companies source. We aim to work for improvement in working conditions and/ or wages in textile-producing businesses as well as in animal welfare and environmental protection. More and more garments and textiles will be produced under better and safer conditions, and a growing number of factories will be able to meet the consumer demand for fair and

Exclusive Interview

sustainable products. In this context, we have a few very important partners, and the most important partner is actually the Government of Bangladesh itself. We really believe in the fact that the Bangladesh government is working with all stakeholders towards harmonizing sustainability requirements. I think Bangladesh has made tremendous progress since the Rana Plaza incident which created a worldwide negative image of Bangladesh. And ever since setting up of Accord and Alliance as major inspection organizations, Bangladesh and major manufacturers have achieved tremendous progress. And that element of progress, safety, and security for the workers are yet to be better marketed worldwide. I think Bangladeshi manufacturers should be willing to open up more proactively to the world and should endeavor to actually bring themselves to the frontlines of the world market – in particular Bangladesh’s important markets, the US, the EU – and also start working in their common interests

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on other issues like working conditions of the workers in general. And in so doing become pioneers in terms of upgrading the production and processing of products. I would say the major manufacturers in Bangladesh have achieved already a remarkable progress in innovation of production processes. I have seen some of these factories and I am absolutely positively surprised with the innovations they have achieved which are of worldclass standards. I give credit to Bangladeshi manufacturers for reaching higher in the market chains with value-added products rather than just the lowest price garments. Textile Toaay: How is PaCT contributing in saving cost and resource of Bangladesh textile industry? H. E. Harry Verweij: PaCT is all about clean textiles and ensuring a sustainable industry with the least possible impact on the environment. We and our partners, IFC and the manufacturers, have achieved impressive results especially on water saving, reducing

effluent flows as well as on introducing new resource-efficient technologies. The impressive figures show what PaCT has really achieved for the manufacturers. Of course, it’s a fast investment program so you need to spend money before achieving these results. But eventually it saves the investors a lot of money through reduced operational cost. For the larger companies, it’s a feasible approach to ensure that you have adequate sustainable waste bottom management and electricity. PaCT has united the key stakeholders in the RMG sector with a common cause: to make the industry more sustainable. I am proud that the Netherlands is part of this partnership. Not only as a donor, but also as a partner in providing the necessary water technology. I consider it essential that we use the coming years to further develop this partnership, to introduce new technologies and to stimulate and facilitate investments in cleaner production. Textile Toaay: How is the Textile

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the ultimate for comfort finish

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Technology Business Center (TTBC) ensuring sustainable development of Bangladesh textile industry? H. E. Harry Verweij: As with any new set up this will take time. But we are hopeful on the plan that BGMEA and IFC have worked out to make it operational and sustainable. Textile Toaay: Bangladeshi textile and apparel manufacturers are struggling on profitability mainly due to less price from brands. Do you think manufacturing could be sustainable with the current prices they are offering to Bangladesh companies? H. E. Harry Verweij: Well, this is a matter of demand and supply. It is a matter for the industry in Bangladesh to position themselves. The pricing issue is a very important element of our exchanges with the government and the textile and garment industry. Politically, it is extremely sensitive both here in Dhaka as in my Headquarter, The Hague. We want to approach it sensibly and delicately. But we need to make progress to the next level. It is in the interest of the brands, manufacturers, unions and of the workers. My embassy will certainly pick this up again as a follow-up of our efforts in 2016, when we organized a conference on Sustainable Sourcing. Also in 2017, we organized a roundtable on living wage. Both these events were organized to discuss pricing, sustainability, and wages. Our message in both these events was that performance indicators used by buyers should focus less on price and more on other aspects, like sustainability. We also urge producers and buyers to form longterm partnerships for sustainability. I think we will be able to build on the achievements we have so far in the industry and see how we can step-up our efforts. Textile Toaay: Recently the Bangladesh government has increased apparel workers salary, will this initiative help to shine the 40

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sector’s image in the global arena? H. E. Harry Verweij: I recognize the political will to ensure an increase in salaries. The recent increase in the minimum wage in Bangladesh is modest and barely keeps up with inflation. For a living wage the current minimum wage would have to be doubled. I note that this raise has been agreed upon by the manufacturers and the government. But there is still a lot more work to be done. I want to say that the issue of wage needs to be seen in the context of pricing, working conditions etc. We feel as more and more sustainability requirements are being set, prices continue to fall that brands pay to producers. We continue to appeal and advocate for responsible purchasing and paying fair prices. The Netherlands takes its responsibility as a partner in the strife for responsible purchasing very seriously and we will remain at the forefront. Textile Toaay: Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is the second largest in the world. What are the opportunities do you see for the Netherlands in investing in Bangladesh textile and apparel industry? H. E. Harry Verweij: The international market does not know much about Bangladesh. There are 500 million citizens in the EU. And I think more than 499 million of them don’t know anything about Bangladesh. I think Bangladesh has actually not done enough to promote the country for its full potential. I think this is a branding and marketing issue that the industries, the government and maybe we should invest a lot of time and energy in. For me, as a Dutch Ambassador, I want to expand the trade relationship between Bangladesh and the Netherlands, as both our countries have enjoyed an extremely good relationship since independence. I think Bangladesh should brand its economic potential. Looking at the growth figures, the expanding

middle class, the huge market place, and the above average productive workforce; these things need to be brought up in a professional manner to show that Bangladesh has achieved a lot and the opportunities it offers for the future. I think slowly but surely this country will get more positively in the minds of partners in your important markets. I always say, ensure that you have an open economy, an inclusive economy – meaning include the poor – and an innovative economy. Textile Toaay: Bangladesh is one of the lowest performers on ease of doing business, how can Bangladesh improve the ease of doing business? H. E. Harry Verweij: Well, that is another branding issue. If I were a Bangladeshi, I would never accept Bangladesh to be so low on this list. This country should work hard to conform to the indicators of the World Bank. It is up to the Bangladesh government to ensure that Bangladesh quickly moves up the ladder of the WB list. This is my wish, as it is absolutely necessary to improve the ease of doing business in Bangladesh in the interest of all your partners including the Netherlands. If I talk to Dutch companies that do business here, they say that business is feasible in Bangladesh and profitable. That is my personal indicator! My major message to all is: show that Bangladesh is expanding, prove that it can be a preferred destination to do business. Step up efforts to brand the nation, its economy and its high value products. This will eventually, I’m sure, create a somewhat more positive image of Bangladesh and its economy. I believe Bangladesh has become more self-confident. It’s an energetic country where we, the Dutch, feel at home. And rest assured that the Netherlands will remain your partner, as we have been since your independence.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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CERTIFICATE ACHIEVERS OF RECENTLY COMPLITED TRAINING PROGRAMS OF TEXTILE TODAY TRAINING 

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Certificate achievers of Knitting & Knit Processing (1st batch) under FSD Training program of Textile Today Training.

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Certificate achievers of Sustainability Management System (Higg FEM) program jointly organized by Textile Today Training & Engineering Resources International (ERI).

Certificate achievers of Sustainable Chemicals and Environmental Management program jointly organized by Textile Today Training & Engineering Resources International (ERI).

Transforming Human Capital

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March 2019 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 03 l Pages 43 to 111

w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m March 2019

Australian brands contributing to driving wages down, Oxfam reports Yarn and fabric dumping pushing local millers to brink of the cliff

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s E d i t o r i a l

Yarn and fabric dumping pushing local millers to brink of the cliff India, China, and Pakistan are dumping yarn and fabric to Bangladesh that is impeding local millers and pushing them to operate business at a loss Textile Today Analysis Bangladesh has many achievements in the international trade market, still, the huge negative trade balance is a matter of great worry. Bangladesh is having an acute problem of dumping a huge quantity of raw materials for the textile industry by mainly India along with China and Pakistan. China is providing direct cash returns to the exporters of about 15 to 20% on their export of fabric to countries like Bangladesh. The Chinese government also provide direct support for the fabric manufacturers and traders for promoting their products by participating in different international exhibitions. This ultimately creates countless sufferings for the Bangladeshi local millers, especially for backward linkage millers. Now the moment, Bangladeshi backward linkage factories (spinning, weaving, and knitting) are running their business at loss because of yarn and fabric dumping to Bangladesh from India, Pakistan, and China. Mainly, India is dumping yarn where China and Pakistan are dumping fabrics to Bangladesh. According to WTO, if a company exports a product at a price lower than the price it normally charges in its own home market, it is said to be dumping the product.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: Bangladeshi backward linkage factories are running their business at loss because of yarn and fabric dumping to Bangladesh from India, Pakistan, and China.

Let’s see how Bangladeshi millers are losing business1. For the last three months, Bangladesh spinning and fabric mills are facing severe unfair competition from India, China, and Pakistan. These countries are dumping yarn and fabric to Bangladesh at an unbelievably low price with which local companies are not being able to compete with. 2. The dumping campaigns of these three countries came in such a time when Bangladesh has enforced new wage policy pushing the worker’s salary up to 60%. 3. Many Bangladeshi spinning, weaving and knitting millers

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have expressed their depression to Textile Today saying that if such trend continues for upcoming months, they have to shut down their factories. 4. There have been cases where India and China are quoting 30% lower prices than rational minimum production costs. India is dumping yarn and China fabric mostly. 5. Usually, every year during cotton harvest Indian spinning mills dumps yarn to earn cash to buy cotton at a low price. At that time spinning mills of Bangladesh suffer cash flow shortage and can’t buy cotton and later on, they need to buy cotton at a higher price. This is

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An initiative of Textile Today

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Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...

The Team Tareq Amin Founder & CEO Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development

Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator Arif-Uz-Zaman Business Process Analyst

‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and explore positives and significant stories from sites of the industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video contents will be developed to highlight & promote best practices; product and process development stories; social and environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturing companies.

SN Abdullah Research & Development

Major Factory Tales Services are Brand Strategy Making (Identity & Positioning)

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Sanaullah Sabuj Engagement & Communication

Best Practice Story Building (Marketing/Branding Story)

Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing

Yeasin Mia Graphic Design

Ashraful Alam Cinematographer

Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer

Brand Manual Making

(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand Materials and Websites)

Photography & Videography

(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)

Brand Communication- PR Services

Amenities of Factory Tales

Identical position in the industry

Buyer and consumer loyalty

Vantage in price negotiation

Employer Branding

New business possibility

Robust & sustainable business

Award on best practice

Riasad Rion Sr. Executive, Web & IT Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com

25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh Tel: +88 02 55093682, Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748 Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com

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a double-edged sword cutting all the competitive edges of Bangladesh spinning industries. 6. Due to the low yarn and fabric prices, apparently the apparel makers may get an advantage but they are also going to fall within a great trap. While buyers are looking for low price sources now, they are making coatings with these low-price Chinese fabric and Indian yarn, later on, while the apparel makers won’t be able to increase it easily. This will create a strong dependency on imported fabrics and yarns increasing lead time pressure and hurting the supply chain advantage. Our competitor countries like China, India, and Pakistan have their own policy and law to protect their local millers from

F a c t o r y Ta l e s E d i t o r i a l

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dumping issue. It is high time for Bangladesh to take anti-dumping measures to save its spinning, knitting, weaving and processing industries. By policy, Bangladesh can make the process of importing of yarn and fabric very strict. Engr Md. Mozaffar Hossain, MP told Textile Today, “We cannot completely stop the illegal import of yarns as it is an era of the free market. But we can make policy and impose a tax on imported yarns like India. And we must ensure taxation and impose a duty in all seaports, airports, and border posts.” To be a sustainable cotton importer we have to reduce our dependency on one country. In this case, African countries can be a major source of cotton for raw materials in Bangladesh’s spinning

industry. “Currently, Bangladesh sources around 20.88% of its total cotton demand from African countries. We are bargaining with our government, to give us policy support to import more cotton from Africa,” Mohammad Ali Khokon, President of BTMA said Textile Today. “The cotton that we import from India and China is not even of good quality,” Khokon stated. So that the country should take measures to keep cotton import easy and smooth. The country can go for major investments in African cotton-producing countries to keep its cotton supply smooth. This is to mention that Bangladesh is the highest important destination in the world for cotton exporting countries.

Z&Z fabric week shows innovative fabrics to attract the global buyer Z&Z is going to create new brand Bluejeans Staff Correspondent One of the major Bangladeshi textile exporter Zaber & Zubair Fabrics Ltd, a sister concern of Noman Group, has organized Zaber & Zubair (Z&Z) fabric week for the third time in country’s textile history. The seven days mill week that held from 2 March to 7 March displayed fabrics and garment products for global buyers on the company’s corporate office premises at Gulshan in the capital. “We are proudly announcing that very soon we will create our new brand Bluejeans which will coordinate our Director Lisa Malik. As a big company we have all resources so at the end of this year we will launch our new brand for local and international market” said, Anol Rayhan, Brand Manager, Zaber & Zubair fabrics ltd.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Anol Rayhan. Our next fabric will be organized with lots of activists, added Anol Rayhan. In the 3rd fabric week, Zaber and Zubair displayed various developments of fabric collection along with regular developments Figure: Global buyers visited Z&Z fabric week. by analyzing current fashion trend for upcoming “Z&Z fabric week is a very big clothing display. opportunity for Bangladesh to attract the customer that the real strength of woven fabric in Bangladesh”. More than 500 buyers registered and more than 300 unregistered customers visited in this fabric week and choose their collection for Spring-Summer 2020, Said

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Ocean Stripes, Viscose, Vintage Heather, Butterfly Hatch, and Blooming Seersucker were their new presentation for the buyer. The design and construction were selected from their experience, customer demand and trend analysis by their expert R&D and design team.

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Australian brands contributing to driving wages down, Oxfam reports The report came to notice while manufacturers of Bangladesh has increased their workers’ wage up to 51% and to afford the new wage structure manufacturers are urging supports from brands and buyers Desk Report Groundbreaking research conducted by Oxfam has exposed the undeniable truth behind the clothes being sold in shops across Australia. The research shows workers are trapped in a cycle of poverty, no matter how hard they work.

structure manufacturers are urging supports from brands and buyers. Oxfam interviewed 470 garment workers employed at factories supplying brands such as Big W, Kmart, Target and Cotton On, and found 100% of surveyed workers in Bangladesh and 74% in Vietnam could not make ends meet.

According to the report released on 25 February by Oxfam, women in Bangladesh and Vietnam making clothes for the $23bn Australian fashion industry are going hungry because of wages as low as 51 cents an hour. The report came to notice while manufacturers of Bangladesh has increased their workers’ wage up to 51% and to afford the new wage

Bangladesh

100% of garment workers earn below the living wage compared against Asia Floor Wage and Global Living Wage Coalition.

85% 48

“The investigation has uncovered the widespread payment of poverty wages and the impact this is having on the lives of the workers, mainly women, making the clothes Australians love to wear,” Oxfam Australia Chief, Helen Szoke, said. Women who are unable to get

Figure: Workers making clothes for Australian brands can’t afford to eat,

MIND THE GAP: WORKER’S WAGES AND DEBT LEVELS

87%

of workers take loans and

9 OUT OF 10 felt that their income is not sufficient or partially sufficient to meet their needs. reported that they regularly run out of money at the end of each month.

56%

purchase on credit from the local shop to fill in the income expenditure gap.

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VIETNAM

99% of garment workers earn below the living wage compared against Asia Floor Wage and

felt that their income is not sufficient or partially sufficient to meet their needs.

74%

Earn below living wage compared against Global Living Wage Coalition.

28%

37%

workers have to borrow from friends, relatives or neighbours to fill in income expenditure gap.

reported that their wage is not suffcient to sustain thair family for the whole month.

treatment when they fall sick, workers who cannot afford to send their children to school, families that cannot make their pay stretch to put enough food on the table, people sleeping on floors in overcrowded houses, spiraling debts, mothers separated from their children – these are just some of the common realities of the failure of big brands to ensure the payment of living wages, the reports highlighted. Nine out of 10 workers interviewed in Bangladesh said they could not afford enough food for themselves and their families and were forced to skip meals or go into debt. In the same country, 72% of workers interviewed could not afford medical treatment, compared with 53% in Vietnam. In Bangladesh, one in three workers interviewed was separated from their children because of inadequate income. The report details the plight of a Bangladeshi 21-year-old single mother, Tania, who works up to 12 hours a day in a factory supplying clothes to brands including Kmart and earns $169 a month, or about 55 cents an hour.

7 OUT OF 10

27% experienced no change in wage and 5% experienced that their wage reduced in the past year.

She was forced to send her baby back to her village to be cared for by her parents and sees her daughter only twice a year. Tania holds the only photograph she has of her daughter, who she only sees twice a year. Another worker profiled, Chameli, earns about 51 cents an hour for her work as a helper in a factory in Bangladesh that supplies clothes to brands including Big W. Her family cannot afford to send any of her three daughters to school and the eldest, aged 14, has also started working in a garment factory. The family of five live in a crowded compound on the outskirts of Dhaka in a 3.6 meter by 2.4 meter room, where the two youngest girls sleep on the floor. Deloitte Access Economics estimates that on average just 4% of the price of a piece of clothing sold in Australia goes towards the wages of the workers who made it. Oxfam said if brands absorbed the cost of paying a living wage, it would amount to less than 1% of the garment price.

The aid group found practices by Australian companies were contributing to driving wages down. “They undertake fierce price negotiation, often jump between contracts instead of working with factories over the long term, squeeze lead times for orders and operate with a separation between their ethical and standards staff and their buying teams, who negotiate directly with factories,” the report said. “One factory owner even reported the extensive measures a company had taken to keep their clothing safe in case of a fire, but a lack of interest from the very same company in fire safety measures for the workspaces where people sew their clothes.” Szoke said Oxfam was not advocating boycotts of brands but encouraged shoppers to contact fashion retailers via social media to demand living wages for garment workers. Cotton On, Kmart, Target and City Chic have recently announced plans to achieve a living wage for the workers in their supply chains.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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angladesh government has planned to set up more than 100 special economic zones by 2030 across the country in all potential areas. Among all, Sirajganj Economic Zone Ltd. (SEZL) is the biggest privately owned economic zone in Bangladesh. It will be a green economic zone and the first gateway to the development of the North Bengal. SEZ is located in the west side of Bangabandhu Bridge at Sirajganj district. The investment of this mega project amounted to USD 32 billion. The zone is envisaged to be developed over a land area of approx. 1041.43 acres. It is very well connected through the river, rail, road, and air, targeting to create a total employment of approx. 500,000 people. The entrepreneurs for the economic zone are titled ‘Sirajganj Economic Zone Limited’ and has been formed by a consortium of eleven

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SEZ is the first gateway for development of North Bengal FT Research Team

companies and individuals. All the companies and individuals are well-reputed entities of Bangladesh and has a rich experience in the industrial business. Here, Mahmud Group is one of the proud partners of SEZ.

Fashion, Ratul Knit Wear Limited, SM Industrial Holding, Paragon Feed, Change Bangladesh and Mohammad Kamruzaman, PhD. from the Technische Universität Dresden, Germany are among other partners.

Knit Asia Ltd, Rising Holdings Limited, Textown Limited, Esquire Knit Composite Ltd., Manami

Why investing at SEZ? • Available land

Expected industry segments

at SEZ including textile & RMG.

Automobile Engineering & Assembly

RMG & Textiles

Plastic

Food Processing

Fertilizers

Pharmaceuticals

Non-metallic mineral products

Electrical & Electronic Equipments

Leather processing & products

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

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• Attractive incentives from the government • Well connected by rail, road, air, and water • Hazardous solid waste disposal facility • Moderate climate

MRSS

Educational Instiuttions

Entrance plaza

• Access to labor pool

Admin & customs

• Availability of feedstock nearby

BEZA park

Residential area

River front development

• Effluent collection, treatment, and disposal facility etc.

Logistics

Key features of SEZ • Central supply of utilities like water, electricity, alternative power, steam etc. from integral source. • The proposed ICD (Inland Container Deport) in Western Side of Bangabandhu Bridge is only at 1 km distance from SEZ. This will facilitate the export through Chattogram and Mongla seaport. • The project stands beside the river Jamuna having a frontage 4 km. The integral jetty of SEZ will ease the transportation of imported raw material from the seaports to SEZ as well as transportation of export items from SEZ to the seaports. • Disposal of industrial wastes through Central Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP) with zero discharge. • One-stop custom house solutions. • Administrative and logistic facilities. • Central fire-fighting facilities. • Provision of the ready factory for sale or long-term lease with full compliance besides its core product rental of industrial land. • Commercial facilities like financial institutions, retail shops, restaurants etc. • Technical institutions to train the labor, technicians, and executives. • Marine drive road, recreation centers, amusement parks etc. for refreshment.

STP & CETP

Others industries zone

Q.A & Q.C lab Textile & RMG zone

Food processing zone

Boiler & WTP

Non-metallic Mineral Products zone Power plant

STP & CETP

Jatty Leather & Leather Products zone

Logistics zone Resettlemnts & Rehabilitation zone

Figure: Proposed layout plan of Sirajganj Economic Zone Ltd.

SEZ project got all the licenses last year and now it’s in landfilling stage. Rafee Mahmood, Director, Mahmud Group said Textile Today in a discussion that, “Landfilling will be finished hopefully within two years and then we will move for construction works.” About 400 factories from different heavy industry will get plots. The entrepreneurs are encouraging foreign investors to invest here. Local people are happy because they will get a job here since this northern part is an underdeveloped area of Bangladesh. But now it is getting the momentum. There were a total

of 756 families used to dwell in the procured land of the project. SEZ authority has deliberately plan to rehabilitation program (in addition to payment of financial benefit against the land, household, and crop) with a plot area of 5.12 decimal each with following urban facilities like educational institute, graveyard, surface water source, market, playground, commercial area etc. “This mega project has been designed dedicatedly. We all the entrepreneurs are committed not to harm the environment but to contribute in the national economy,” Rafee Mahmood stated.

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The challenges of spinning industry and ways to cultivate success and assure sustainable development Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, Transcom Introduction The pharmaceuticals industry is one of the most vibrant industries in Bangladesh that is not only meeting the majority of local needs but also being exported to many countries around the world. If we look back in the early ’80s, the industry was completely dominated by multinationals. The National Drug Policy of 1982 formulated through a committee of 8 (Eight) members during President Ershad’s regime, had dramatically changed the context of the industry and local pharmaceuticals companies started growing rapidly. Now, the industry is dominated by the local giants like; Square, Incepta, Beximco, etc. You must be wondering what the heck with Pharmaceuticals to do with Spinning! The logic

behind drawing the example of Pharmaceuticals industry is to show an example of the impact of policy in making or breaking an industry and also to highlight the importance of homegrown policy that can bring the best result if it is done with a good intent through competent policymakers. Recently, Indian Government has taken the following steps for their RMG and backward linkage industry, in order to attain their ambitious goal to export USD 30 billion RMG by 2020 and Indian textile industry be worth the US $ 300 billion by 2025: • Spinning sector: 2% interest subsidy for modernizing spinning mills where spindles are of above 15 years’ vintage. • Weaving and garments Sector: 10% capital subsidy for all new

machines. TN Govt. to assist in setting up of trade facilitation center where 25% of the project cost with a ceiling of Rs. 10 crores shall be provided by the state. • Dyeing, printing and wet processing sector: 10% subsidy for wider width fabric processing, 5% interest subsidy for the common effluent treatment plant, 15% capital subsidy for the individual treatment plant and RND assistance of 1 crore offered for effluent treatment plants. An analysis of the current status of spinning in Bangladesh and a way forward: Now, let us come to our main point of discussion - the current situation of the spinning industry in Bangladesh and seeking a way

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to cultivate success and assure sustainable development. We would like to divide the discussion into two stages: A. Macro or policy support from the government B. Micro or individual mill management. A) M acro or policy support from the government In order to assure the smooth growth of the spinning industry the following government policy supports are very crucial: 1. Delisting specific HS codes from existing bonded warehouse licenses, increase cash incentive and the to impose a ban on import of raw material through land ports, to encourage backward linkage industry: Bangladeshi knit and Denim RMG that has already developed a very strong backward linkage industry (Spinning-Knitting/ Weaving-Dyeing & Finishing) that are mostly made with cotton and cotton blends of different kinds. The spinning industry of Bangladesh with 12.50 million spindles is capable to meet 95% of local yarn demand. Rest is woven, sweater and home textile which is mostly based on imported fabric and yarn where spinning industry can support 40% of their yarn requirement. Therefore, the government in collaboration with Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) need to design a policy to exclude the HS codes of imported yarn (Cotton and cotton blends) and fabric (Denim fabric), from the existing bonded warehouse licenses of RMG exporters, that BTMA mills are capable to supply. In addition to that, to encourage the use of local yarn and fabric in export-oriented RMG, cash incentive can also be raised. An alternative to it is to impose an anti-dumping duty that creates a negative country

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image, even if we don't consider the difficulty in executing it. It is also important to impose a ban the on the import of any raw material (Cotton, yarn, and fabric) through any land ports and allow imports only through seaports (i.e. Chattogram and Mongla). However, to accommodate emergency shipments or sample quantity of a maximum of 500 kg can be allowed to be imported through airports. 2. Hedging opportunity against cotton import: Now, if we look at the cost component of yarn, 60-70% consists of cotton or

 The government in collaboration with Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) need to design a policy to exclude the HS codes of imported yarn (Cotton and cotton blends) and fabric (Denim fabric), from the existing bonded warehouse licenses of RMG exporters, that BTMA mills are capable to supply. In addition to that, to encourage the use of local yarn and fabric in exportoriented RMG, cash incentive can also be raised. raw material cost. Last year Bangladesh imported 7.20 million bales of cotton, the biggest importer of cotton in the world. In the ’90s cotton had little fluctuations (Say, the cotton index had a breath of maximum 5-10 cents in a year). Over the period, the cotton index has become 2 to 3 times riskier than it was earlier. So, in such a risky market the only way to mitigate risk is hedging which is not permitted

as per the existing guidelines of Bangladesh Bank. As I remember, Beximco wanted to do it back around 1999 and it was too complicated to get the permission and the market beta was quite low to exercise it in comparison with cost and benefit. As a matter of fact, the number one reason why we could not compete with imported yarn is not having a hedging opportunity. However, our spinners are also quite reluctant to hedge the risk. 3. Power: Spinning is a power hungry industry that mostly comes from captive gas generators. Still, we are not sure what is going to be the cost of power in the coming decades. Also, earlier different regions in the country had different levels of gas availability, though the situation has improved a bit in recent times. However, this is vital for the spinning industry to be assured of uninterrupted power at a reasonable cost in the long run and the government should work out ways to assure it. 4. Money laundering /bank eating activity: Spinning is a capital intensive industry and it needs to be free from activities that encourage unscrupulous funding activities that discourage committed and performing entrepreneurs. A level playing professional financing ground is required for the spinning as well as for the banking industry. 5. Recruitment of foreign experts: Homegrown solutions work well and our spinning industry has more than four decades of experience and there are enough human resources to feed the spinning industry; both professional and technical. At best, they may need some local and foreign training. But we find the rampant presence of top foreign officials in spinning mills. The government needs to validate thoroughly before

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allowing any employment of foreign nationals in the spinning industry. It is not only draining out a huge foreign currency but also resulting in unemployment and frustration for local professionals and technicians. Eventually, the spinning industry is losing grounds for sustenance. 6. Systematic pay scale review: Employees are our best resources to assure productivity, quality, and results. The government in collaboration with BTMA should assure systematic review of wages and salaries in order to assure the living wages of workers and executives. The working conditions need to be reviewed and updated and set a benchmark for the spinning industry. This would improve the working condition, reduce grievances and act as a boost to improve productivity, quality, and harmonious employee and

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employer relationship in the long run which is depleting gradually. B) Micro or individual mill management In Bangladesh, most of the mill's management are still ownercentric and not managed by professionals. This is a key disadvantage for the industry. Beximco showed the path of professional management and few mills followed their footsteps that resulted in much better performance than the industry average; i.e. Square, Ha-meem, Envoy, Pahartoli, Viyellatex, etc., who experienced much better result than the existing management models in the market. Actually, the size and capacity of our respected entrepreneurs had scaled up significantly that requires professional management. This would not only give them a solid footing on their investments

but also create many opportunities for professionals and management consultants to have a mutually beneficial scope and growth to sustain. The owners need to validate their vision, mission, core values to business professionals to set strategic goals and cascade it down to activities and achieve those. Connecting the dots needs to be left with business professionals as done by top business houses throughout the world. Conclusion In brief, the challenging situation of the spinning industry in Bangladesh is a function of under management of cotton costs and risks as well unscrupulous import of yarn from outside counties, in my opinion. Last but not least, every spinning mill should have a unique strategic plan in order to face the battle in the short run and win the war in the long run. I gladly look forward to different opinions.

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Pioneer Denim bagged the LEED Platinum certificate FT Research Team Pioneer Denim, a sister concern of Badsha Group, has achieved the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) Platinum certification recently. Their production unit has been constructed focusing on the requirements of LEED Platinum certification, saving energy with green building technology as well as considering all other safety measures has been closely taken into consideration. Badsha Group of Industries is one of the largest conglomerates in Bangladesh, specializing in the textile and RMG sector. Badsha Group started its journey since 1976. Pioneer Denim stepped in the manufacturing of denim fabric by keeping a closer eye to the environmental factors of production. Sustainability is their utmost priority and environmental friendly denim fabric has been their goal and priority since the start. They save almost 20% of water and 18% energy. How Pioneer Denim saves water? •U sing radiator system power plant

•F rom ETP, re-using 20 m³/hr. of water and in the future it will increase up to 150 m³/hr. (using 80% of reusable water at the factory)

water, resources, generate less waste and support human health. Certification levels remain consistent with the LEED

Table 1: Pioneer Denim at a glance Mother company

Badsha Group

Location

Habiganj, Sylhet, Bangladesh

Area

150 acres

Plant facility

1.4 million sq. ft.

Production capacity

40 million yards per year (Expansion plan to 80 million yards per year)

Certifications

LEED Platinum, BSCI, GRS, GOTS, OEKO-TEX 100

Points and certification of LEED LEED is the most widely used green building rating system in the world. LEED buildings save energy,

rating system. A project team’s performance score determines the level of LEED certification awarded.

Table 2: Performance score and certification levels of LEED.

•2 /1 pick wash system dyeing machine which saves water at a greater level

Performance Score

Certification Level

40-49

Certified

50-59

Silver

•2 0,000 m³ rainwater harvesting system

60-79

Gold

80-100

Platinum

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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f ro m f i e l d to fa s h i o n

Sales Inquiry +88 0184 1166 233 amran@maksonsgroup.com.bd www.maksonsgroup.com.bd

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U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

March 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 03 l Pages 61 to 78

Top to bottom of

U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

RFT dyeing March 2019

Profitability vs performance: dyeing polyester-cellulosic blends

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Invisible price of producing garment is concerning for environment

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Top to bottom of RFT dyeing

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Dyes & chemicals should be from branded suppliers and tested to achieve expected RFT%.

Rahbar Hossain What is RFT dyeing? The term RFT means ‘right first time’ is often used in the wet processing factories. RFT actually defines the flawless processing of fabric at the first time. Every dyehouse has an RFT% target to be achieved. Doing things right first time especially when it is fabric or yarn dyeing is not that easy because there are lots of things at the back end that has to be done rightly. So, the RFT is not just a concept, it is a process that needs to be developed by practicing daily and it is kind of a commitment from the organization. Benefits and objectives of RFT Modern dye-houses always focus on achieving satisfactory RFT%. Certainly, there are some objectives and benefits of RFT dyeing and these are• Reduce excessive chemical cost. • Increase the loading capacity. • Save the time which is directly convertible to money. • Increase productivity hence the profit. • Sometimes re-dyeing process

Bangladesh Textile Today |

damages the fabric, by RFT dyeing fabric quality is protected. •S horten the lead time. •R educe the business risk and gain the vendor's faith etc. Phenomenon to achieve good RFT% Before dyeing process, there are many norms and issues at the back end that are directly related to achieving good RFT%. •C hemical management system (CMS): Chemicals are the vital part for right first time dyeing. Shade mismatch occurs mostly for dyes and chemicals. Non-tested chemicals, error dispensing system, strength variation of dyes, not following MRSL, wrong chemical selection etc. occurs shade variation. Proper 'Chemical Inventory Management' is the fundamental to improve RFT%. Continuous NPO analysis and mitigation will help further. Chemical and dyes must go through a certain protocol before it enter to the storage and production floor. This will help avoiding

Volume 12, Issue 03

inconsistency in application. So, chemical storage and handling must improve. So, if a dye-house follows the MRSL then many difficulties can be avoided. The core objective of the MRSL is to avoid and control the substances that are used in the textile production processes to the final product. Now, ZDHC Foundation is helping the factories to establish a proper chemical management. •S tandard operating procedure (SOP): Standardizing all the processes before dyeing, during dyeing and after dyeing should be done first to achieve the expected RFT%. Standardization is must to bring non-standard conditions within the standardization tolerance limits. Actually, there should be SOP for every action in a dye-house like lab to bulk, bulk to bulk, how to dose the color, cutting sample from the running machine etc. •M odern laboratory: A major factor to contribute in the

Editorial

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successful implementation of RFT dyeing is a well-organized and equipped modern laboratory with appropriately trained laboratory staffs. Evaluation of dye-staffs, database preparation for computer color matching, stock solution preparation and many other core staffs that should be perfect for RFT dyeing. •S killed workforce: Behind every success, there is human involvement. Wrong shade passing, not following M:L ratio, lack of knowledge in shade matching, negligence attitude etc. leads to shade mismatch. So, a skilled and experienced workforce is a must to achieve the targeted RFT%. •U pdated machinery: Technology is power, of course when it is the right technology for the regarding process. Variation from machine to machine increases the risk of non RFT dyeing. If you expect an under-capacity, the machine will give you higher efficiency- it will be wrong thinking. So, selection of machine and maintenance is a very

Figure: A well-organized chemical store of a Bangladeshi dye-house.

important issue to achieve the RFT dyeing. • Six-sigma: Six Sigma DMAIC (Define-Measure-AnalyzeImprove-Control) methodology is a tool for improving the fabric dyeing process. It is possible to increase more or less 5% RFT by implementing this method in a dye-house. •D ata bank: Information is power and wealth. Eventually, the data bank reduces the time of dyeing process because it helps to prepare the right recipe in first hand. Data bank also helps to continue the quality consistency of fabrics.

•A wareness & commitment: Operators needs awareness and management needs the commitment to achieve a decent percentage of RFT. And that’s why ownership transformation from management to operators is very much needed unfortunately which is missing in the industry. Variation in steam pressure, water quality, grey materials etc. are also directly responsible for not achieving the expected RFT%. Whatever the causes, the decision to achieve RFT% has to be taken first from the management and then it will be easy for others who will implement.

Archroma starts production of Aniline-free Denisol® Pure Indigo Desk Report Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, on 04 March 2019 said in a PR, that the production of its new aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo has been fasttracked due to the high demand encountered on the market.

color that consumers associated with denim and jeans.

Figure: Archroma moves forward with full-scale production of Aniline-free Denisol® Pure Indigo.

Archroma makes the Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 dye in the most sustainable way as currently possible. The new dye is produced in Archroma’s facility in Pakistan, a plant that made the headlines in 2012 for being what Archroma believed to be the industry’s first zero liquid discharge plant.

Aniline-free Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid was first announced in May 2018 at the Planet Textile Conference held in Canada and allows a cleaner way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue

“True to our commitment towards continuous innovation, Archroma challenges the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable. Denisol® Pure Indigo is the result of our efforts

to challenge accepted technologies in order to find a better way to advance sustainability, and it is therefore extremely exciting to see that brands, retailers, and manufacturers are eager to offer more sustainable denim to consumers,” remarks Alexander Wessels, CEO of Archroma. Alexander Wessels, further added, “We owe the successful launch of Denisol® Pure Indigo to the shared vision of the textile value chain to preserve our planet and its people, after all – it’s our nature.”

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

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Effluent Processing

Invisible price of producing garment is concerning for environment We need to develop innovative technologies and policies for textile dyeing and effluent treatment to reduce water use for protecting water pollution, which is threatening for fisheries, biodiversity, and groundwater M M Uddin Bangladesh textile & apparel industry has a good reputation at home and abroad as a quality garments product manufacturer. It is a great proud for the industry that every third European has a t-shirt made in Bangladesh on his back and every fifth American wears jeans manufactured in Bangladesh, the world’s number two garment exporter. But the invisible price we pay every time for producing a garment is concerning for our environment. Textile factories use on an average 120 liters of water to dye and wash a kg of fabric (about two pairs of jeans) and the effluents are discharged into nearby rivers or wetlands mostly without proper treatment, said a recent study of a BUET team led by Mohidus Samad Khan, a teacher at the chemical engineering department. Textile industries would be dumping a mind-boggling 20,300 crore liters of untreated wastewater into the country's waterbodies every year from 2021 if the current situation did not improve, said the BUET study. It said the pollution would be threatening for fisheries, biodiversity, and groundwater.

Figure 1: Untreated effluents pose a dangerous global threat for the living being and the environment. Courtesy: catchnews

Textile factories use on an average 120 litres of water to dye and wash a kg of fabric (about two pairs of jeans) and the effluents are discharged into nearby rivers or wetlands mostly without proper treatment, said a recent study of a BUET team. The untreated effluents could instigate quick changes in the aquatic ecosystems and have a

high economic impact on fisheries. The warm wastewater might also increase the temperature of the water bodies and affect flora and fauna, the study counseled. Factories pumping out water for washing and dyeing fabrics has caused groundwater levels to drop in the apparel industrial belts like Dhaka, Gazipur, Savar, and Narayanganj. Rivers and water bodies near the textile industrial zones Dhaka, Narayanganj, and Gazipur are the major receivers of the unprocessed effluents. Many villages in Gazipur and DND (Dhaka-Narayanganj-

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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Effluent Processing

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Figure 2: Many factories of Bangladesh textile industry has state-of-the-art Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs).

Demra) embankment are now being threatened by environmental degradation caused by textile effluents. By consuming and using polluted water for bathing, washing and for household work, marginal people, especially the children, are suffering from various diseases. The study predicts that by 2021, the textile sector would export goods worth $50 billion a year. The predicted yearly effluent discharge figure for 2021 and onwards was conservative since it was assumed that 65 percent woven and 15 percent knit fabric would still be imported. “The wastewater generation has been increasing in Bangladesh and it will go up higher than the projected rate considering the steady growth of the local textile industry,” said an expert. The government categorizes textile dyeing industries as ‘Red industries’ (most polluting) under the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Act, 1995 and the Environment Conservation Rules, 1997 and made Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs) mandatory for the factories.

approach could reduce water usage by 23 percent.

Almost all large factories run effluent treatment plants as it is mandatory. They invest Tk 20 crore to Tk 35 crore to install an ETP

Strict monitoring of effluent treatment to curb pollution is urgent as the situation regarding environmental pollution is getting worse every day.

Sources in the Department of Environment (DoE), however, claimed that they have issued ETP installation permission to 1,376 textile factories. According to sources in the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association data, the country has around 450 spinning mills, 1,200 weaving mills, and around 5,000 export-oriented dyeing factories. There are several thousand small dyeing factories catering the local markets as well. The study highlighted, intended for policymakers, textile engineers, and environmentalist so that they could develop innovative technologies and policies for textile dyeing and effluent treatment. A more scientific

Individual accountability has to be ensured so that none can dump wastewater into the river without treating it. In this regard, setting up of central ETPs for clusters of factories is important. Factory owners have already taken measures Already textile factory owners have started to use modern technologies to reduce the use of water to make their plants less expensive to run. They are very much concern on this issue and they are using several eco-friendly technologies to protect the earth from the textile waste. Factory Tales, a Textile Today initiative for branding Bangladesh textile and apparel industry, already covered many stories on several factory’s best practices regarding sustainability, innovative technologies for textile dyeing and effluent treatment etc. We have found numerous factories-- Shasha

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

Effluent Processing

Denims Limited, Pioneer Denim Limited, Masco Group, Denimach Washing Limited, Viyellatex Group, ACS Textiles, APS Group, Envoy Textiles Limited (ETL), Mithela Textile Industries Limited and many more—have already reduced water usage in the production process. Shama Proshad Ghosh, Senior general manager of Envoy Textile, a reputed denim factory in Bhaluka, informed, “The parameter of our ETP is set at a high standard as the discharged water is used in the fish pond on the factory premises. We collect samples from the ETP to test in our own lab for maintaining the quality of discharged water. Running the ETP is expensive. We spend Tk 24 for treating one cubic meter of water.” Monsoor Ahmed, Secretary of Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), said that almost all large factories run effluent treatment plants as it is mandatory. They invest Tk 20 crore to Tk 35 crore to install.

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Vilyellatex Group Pioneer Denim Ltd

Denimach Washing Ltd

Shasha Denim Ltd

APS Group

Factories that already taken measures Envoy Textiles Ltd

ACS Textiles

Mithela Textile Industries Ltd

Masco Group

Figure 3: Some factories taken exemplary effort to save the environment

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Sustainable Processing

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Profitability vs performance: dyeing polyester-cellulosic blends Anish Paliwal, Global Technical Marketing Manager, HUNTSMAN performance.

Demand for polyestercellulosic fiber is growing worldwide. The blend combines the power of polyester and the comfort of cellulose to satisfy consumers who want apparel and home furnishings that perform better and look and feel good for longer.

The selection of disperse and reactive dyes is fundamental to achieving good wet-fastness results and a shorter and most cost-effective dyeing process for polyester-cellulosic blends. Key considerations To dye polyester-cellulosic blends, you need a reactive dye for the cellulosic fibers and a disperse dye for the polyester. There are three main criteria to consider:

The polyester fiber in the blend provides excellent crease recovery and shape retention, as well as easy care and durability. The cellulosic fiber offers absorbency, comfort and good heat conduction for winter warmth and summer cooling.

• Thermo-migration and cellulose staining Conventional polyester dyes stain cellulosic fibers. This staining can occur in the washing bath, or during post-bath heat treatment, for example, or during the finishing process or wash-fastness testing (when it is known as thermomigration).

Unfortunately, there is a catch: producing polyestercellulosic blends is challenging.

• Reduction sensitivity

Processing challenges Each fiber type has its own dyeing process, so the overall dyeing cycle is much longer. This drives up costs, as you need more dye, more chemicals and more energy and water.

Figure 1: Demand for polyester-cellulosic fiber is growing day by day.

Using more energy and water also carries a high environmental cost, especially in an age of stricter government regulations and higher consumer expectations. Furthermore, the standard way to dye polyester-cellulosic blends uses hydrosulphite, which is harmful to the environment and makes wastewater more difficult to treat. Many leading brands today have a clean, green image that means their suppliers must avoid pollutants and minimize the

water and energy they use during production. Difficult choices Adding to the challenge, polyestercellulosic blends command a lower price in the market than pure cellulosic fibers because polyester costs less than cotton or other cellulosic. Despite this, blends require longer to process, consume more utilities and create fastness and reproducibility issues. All of these factors mean that textile mills are constantly making difficult choices as they strive to balance profitability and

Reduction leads to loss of color yield and poor reproducibility when dyeing polyester-cellulosic blends. Bluish-red, blue and navy chromophores carry the most risk of reduction. And this risk is further raised in the absence of air, as in a fully flooded dyeing machine. Reductive chemicals can be carried into the dye bath by fibers such as wool, viscose, bleached and neutralized cotton, and greige cotton. Some economical dispersants (such as sulphonated lignin) can also have a reduction effect. • Substrate suitability Some disperse dyes offer good wash fastness or wet fastness on 100-percent polyester, but fail to do so on a polyester-cellulosic blend. That’s why it is important

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

Sustainable Processing

to select dyes that are known to have high fastness properties for polyester-cellulosic blends. New solution Huntsman Textile Effects believes that it has created the best solution available today for dyeing polyester-cellulosic blends. Combining TERASIL® W/WW disperse dyes and AVITERA® SE reactive dyes in a new SE Fast process provides the shortest possible processing time and the lowest environmental impact, along with robust dyeing behavior for all shade depths. A key factor in this process is that

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hours. The process uses around 50 percent less water and energy and produces around 50 percent less carbon dioxide emissions. To illustrate, let’s consider the case of a plant with production capacity of 100 tons per day, of which 40 percent is polyester-cellulosic. Switching to the AVITERA® Fast SE process with TERASIL® W/ WW, this plant can save more than 150,000 cubic meters of water per year, along with more than 16,000 tons of steam. What’s more, it will be able to produce an additional 2,700 tons of fabric each year, without making any other production changes. This is

Figure 2: AVITERA® SE, the best solution available today for dyeing polyester-cellulosic blends.

the TERASIL® W/WW dyes are alkali-clearable and less sensitive to reduction, even under extreme conditions. These dyes are washed off during the fixation phase of cellulosic dyeing and in the alkaline washing bath. This means that the TERASIL® W/WW dyes will not stain cotton or other cellulosic fibers, delivering outstanding fastness. With TERASIL® W/WW dyes allowing alkaline clearing and AVITERA® SE delivering highspeed, low-temperature wash-off, the time required to dye polyestercellulosic blends is reduced from around nine hours to just six

the equivalent of an extra month of production annually. In short, this combination of innovative TERASIL® W/WW and AVITERA® SE dyes help mills overcome the challenges of dyeing polyester-cellulosic blends. It helps achieve the best possible production efficiency, operational excellence and sustainability – all with reliable fastness results, even on difficult shades like Dark Navy and Dark Red. Ultimately, this improved productivity and resource saving brings the textile sector closer to environmental and economic sustainability.

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Chemical Management

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ZDHC conference shows the implementation of sustainable chemical management practices Speakers at ZDHC South East Asia conference opined that as sustainability is a single approach, so, the measure of the sustainable product also should be one Arindam Choudhuri, Technical Head, Britacel Silicones Ltd. ZDHC Governing Body organized first South East Asia regional conference in Mumbai, India on 13 February 2019. In the one-day conference all stakeholders of the textile value chain, including ZDHC Signatory brands, manufacturers, chemical industry, partner organizations, and service providers, were present. Stakeholders discussed on three ‘I’s such as Integration, Implementation, and Innovation in sustainable chemical management practices. Being a platinum sponsor Britacel Silicones Ltd actively took part in the conference. Britacel is one of the leading chemical manufacturers from India having a wide presence in 16 countries and more than 100+ sustainable products across all the stages of chemical processing field (yarn, fabric, and garment) strongly join hands with Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC), being the first contributor from textile chemical manufacturing field. The textile industry is facing many challenges on sustainability having a huge impact on the environment/human health with direct and indirect measures. A small manufacturer who is not associated with top brands and concentrated on local domestic production does not understand chemical pollution and sustainability role towards a clean environment. Though the big players in the industry are concentrating on ZDHC the small players still polluting air/soil/water body, misusing energy/water due to old machinery and processes.

Figure: Experts opined on chemical management best practice Implementation from the lens of manufacturing facilities in India, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka.

So how will we live healthy a healthy life, if everybody doesn’t come under the same norms and regulation? The government should take necessary steps if anyone in the textile industry pollutes river/ sea/soil/air. As the environment will not remain safe for a single polluted factory. Also, Brands now talk about ‘REUSE/RECYCLE’ circularity but I feel many things are still in their hand which they should control in a better way. For example, when a production lot is off shade if we stop re-dyeing/re-process can save a lot of energy/decrease pollution to some limit. So, we should improve the RFT% the same way people should accept minor off shade or minor finishing issue to avoid re-process of goods. We should be more generous accepting a few things which will save plenty in the future. Just need to change the mindset. Also, brands should come in a common platform to stop giving extra burden on the chemical supplier by different certification process of different countries. They should think more “Sustainability is a single approach. So, the measure of the sustainable product also should be one.”

In a panel discussion on ‘Implementing best practices in chemical management in manufacturing- challenges and opportunities’ Charles Ng, Technical & Innovations Manager of UL Consumer and Retail Services talked about sustainable chemistry and supply chain management. It is now mandatory to work with both National and international brands, retailers and NGOs who are committed for ZDHC by 2020. The presence and control of restricted substances in final articles to comply with local and global regulations set by brands etc. and non-conformance to RSL may result of rejection thereby creating a huge financial loss, image loss, and order. Chemical management objectives •T o better manage dyes and chemicals • In process/products and discharge from a factory • Use of Safer chemicals or reduce/ eliminate hazardous/harmful For protection/preservation of • Human and consumer health • A Clean environment To achieve ZDHC by 2020 mostly all textile mills and processing units in India have introduced a chemical management system which is a simple guideline to follow.

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Volume 12, Issue 03

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More Details

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Sustainable Chemical

CHT sets goal to become preferred partner for sustainable chemical solutions Desk Report The CHT Group with its headquarters in Tübingen has set the goal to become the preferred partner for sustainable specialty chemicals all over the world. In all of the business fields, the product ranges are being permanently tested and increasingly substituted by future-oriented, more sustainable products. As far as possible, CHT has been developing alternatives which not only meet but even exceed legal regulations. It is CHT’s goal to completely substitute critical substances and to develop future-oriented alternatives even if the industry has not yet the demand for such solutions. CHT’s business with binders for textile finishing, which are mainly applied in textile coating and pigment printing, is a successful example. The dangerous goods classification by the European Union in 2016 led to clearly stricter legal provisions concerning formaldehyde. In autumn 2017 classic binders,

usually having low formaldehyde contents, were strongly demanded by the German textile market. The CHT Group reacted promptly and invested in higher production capacities to meet the increased needs. The production focused on new, completely formaldehydefree binder technologies which even exceeded legal regulations and the textile industry’s demand. The products are suited for manufacturing textile products according to Ökotex 100 product class 1, the highest possible standard which generally does not even have to be met. Formaldehyde-free binders have many benefits but some customers remained skeptical. After all, many customers expected that formaldehyde-free technology would lead to higher costs and necessary adjustments in production processes. Nevertheless, in 2018 the team of CHT Germany was able to sell more than 500 tons of formaldehyde-free binders in Germany alone. With its team

of experts, CHT supported the necessary adjustments of processes and recipes professionally and without additional costs. “The successful new orientation of our binder business has strongly contributed to textile sustainability in various ways,” Alfons Erb, Head of Sales Textile Auxiliaries at CHT Germany GmbH states. He explains this statement, “On the one hand, formaldehyde is persistently eliminated. Then, the concentrations allow for a lower quantity of binders in the process. Finally, resources are saved in logistics as lower volumes need to be transported.” The example of the textile binders shows that CHT has been working on being the preferred partner for sustainable chemical solutions and products in all of the textile’s applications. The CHT Group offers among others a broad range of formaldehyde-free fixing agents for a completely formaldehydefree implementation of textile functionalities.

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Bluesign to bring cloud computing solution In 2019, Bluesign will fully-integrate its powerful set of tools, taking the system to the next level with a cloud-based platform. Desk Report Conscious consumers increasingly want products that are free of harmful chemicals and that have

they will be Bluesign approved and made searchable in the Bluesign bluefinder.

had as little environmental impact as possible. Producers also want to meet this demand but there’s a lot of hangtags out there and navigating to the right one is not an easy task.

bluefinder: Identifying problems is easy but finding solutions requires experience. That’s why Bluesign created the most comprehensive positive list in the industry – always kept up to date. The Bluesign bluefinder is a webbased, advanced search engine for manufacturers containing Bluesign approved chemical products.

A simple solution Since 2000, Bluesign has provided a simple yet effective solution to both shortcomings: start at the beginning of the manufacturing process, using scientific verification. A set of applications have already worked closely together to ensure that textiles are manufactured using the least but most environmentally friendly resources available. But following increasing requests from stakeholders for collaboration, transparency and traceability, Bluesign began the transformation of its web-based service platform, making it a highly-integrated system that allows partners to interact throughout the whole supply chain. In 2019, this work will culminate with the Bluesign cloud computing solution. Integration brings new possibilities The Bluesign cloud computing solution is the science gateway to responsible consumer textile products. This service platform provides continuously growing and updated information, as well as applications related to the Bluesign system. Digitalization brings new opportunities, and Bluesign’s cloud-based integration

Bangladesh Textile Today |

will provide additional, farreaching possibilities for the industry and its players. There will be many new features aim to simplify the collaboration and exchange throughout the whole supply chain and will automatically lead to more transparency and traceability for Bluesign’s system partners. The transformation will be implemented incrementally in 2019. Once complete, Bluesign’s service platform will become the first in the industry to contain such a vast quantity of verified data checked against scientific criteria.

blueguide: The Bluesign blueguide is a comprehensive database of garment manufacturers and assemblers as well as brands and retailers containing Bluesign approved materials. blueXpert: Combining intelligent processes and smart chemistry for increased resource productivity, the Bluesign blueXpert is a productivity calculator for manufacturers allowing process calculation with Bluesign approved chemical products and benchmarking with verified best practice processes.

Fact box bluetool: For chemical suppliers, Bluesign’s bluetool is a concerted guide that helps System Partners navigate through the homologation procedure. Bluesign bluetool provides all the necessary information on the evaluation of products and processes. Once products are verified to be in compliance with Bluesign system by means of the Bluesign bluetool,

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Sustainable Chemical

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Biolase APC -a combined bio scouring & enzyme by Raas Biotech Desk Report RAAS Biotech brings groundbreaking revolution in knit pre-treatment and enzyme process. It offers a combined bio-scouring and enzyme process by a single product called Biolase APC that eliminates using of seven pre-treatment chemicals. The combined process considerably reduce chemical, water, time and energy consumption in the knit dyeing process. This Malaysia based company is renowned for manufacturing enzymes and auxiliaries, operating a business in Bangladesh for the last 10 years. Biolase APC offers a combined bio scouring and enzyme process that eliminates seven to eight chemicals like, Sequestering Agent, Anti Creasing agent, Caustic Soda, Peroxide, Stabilizer, Peroxide killer, and enzyme. “In recent days the cost of business has been increased

 We choose Biolase APC as it needs 15% less process time, around 20% less water and saves significant amount of energy for fabric processing, because as a part of sustainability practice we always try to implement 3R process (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle). This also allow less TDS on ETP as the product is enzyme based biodegradable Imtiaz Uddin Topu, General Manager (Fabrics), Hams Garments Limited.

Benefits of using Biolase APC over the conventional process Parameters

Regular Process

Biolase APC

Total no of Bath

4-6

1 -2

Total time

3 to 4 hours

1.30 hours

Energy

Standard

65% of Standard

Process loss

11-12%

9-10%

Effect on ETP (COD&BOD)

High

Low

Amount of Dyes

Regular

Less

Chemicals Needed

1. Detergent

2. Sequestering Agent

2. Biolase APC

3. Soda 4. Caustic 5. Hydrogen Peroxide 6. Stabilizer 7. Peroxide Killer 8. Enzyme

significantly. We are always looking for the product and process that could reduce the cost as well as maintain the quality. Biolase APC has significantly reduced the fabric pre-treatment and enzyme cost as it needs less chemical, water, energy and time” Engr. Kawsar Alam Sikder, COO, Textile Division, Asrotex Group one of the users of Biolase APC told. In this fast fashion arena, the manufacturers are in the hustle to meet the shorter shipment date. Companies have set up R&D department to innovate process and ideas to enhanced production efficiency to deliver more production within the time bound. Generally, the knit pre-treatment and enzyme process takes 3.30 hours while Biolase APC only takes 1.30 hours to complete the process and delivery more production as it saves time. “Our dyeing production per day has been increased after using Biolase APC. Generally, it takes 3.30 hours, but Biolase APC only takes 1.30 hours for souring and enzyme” Mohammed Ashraful Hossain (Shimul), General Manager, Knit Dyeing Division, Shovon Group of Companies Limited. In fabric dyeing industry maintaining the cost of sustainability is a quite big issue as the dyeing process uses many of hazardous chemicals and to neutralize them a huge amount of ETP chemical is needed. Biolase APC is an enzyme-based product

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Sustainable Chemical

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so it is totally biodegradable so the process releases minimum TDS on ETP thus minimize the usage of ETP chemical. “We choose Biolase APC as it needs 15% less process time, around 20% less water and saves a significant amount of energy for fabric processing, because as a part of sustainability practice we always try to implement the 3R process (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle). This also allows less TDS on ETP as the product is enzyme based biodegradable,” said Imtiaz Uddin Topu, General Manager (Fabrics), Hams Garments Limited. Biolase APC becomes widely

Less Water

Less time

Less energy

accepted and reliable to popular Bangladeshi knit dyeing and finishing factories like HAMS Group, NAZ Bangladesh Ltd, Asrotex Group, Crony Group, Libas Textile, Model De Capital, Shovon Knitwear, Unity Fabric, Rising Group, Anontex Group, Mascom Composite Ltd, Rony Textile, Ibrahim Knit Composite, Fatullah Dyeing and many more companies.

Cost effctive

Sustainability

“The dyeing industry is facing rising process cost as the price of energy and material goes up, Biolase APC is the demand of time as it saves overall 35% of energy consumption. We are getting a very good response from the dyeing industry as this product meeting their demand,” Rashidul Islam Russel, ECO Aux & Hue (Local agent of Raas Biotech) expressed.

Dysin Calibration Laboratory receives the ISO-17025 accreditation certificate Staff Correspondent The Calibration Laboratory of Dysin International Ltd has got the ISO-17025 accreditation certificate from Bangladesh Accreditation Board (BAB) recently. Now, they are capable to provide a broader range of services to the textile industry. Dysin Calibration Laboratory is the first private accredited lab which got the accreditation from BAB in 2015. “Generally, any equipment which is having the kind of measuring instrument, it should be calibrated to ensure the perfect operation of that equipment,” stated Amanur Rahman, Managing Director of Dysin International Ltd. “Not only laboratory, production machinery like the dyeing machines should also be calibrated to know the perfect readings,” Amanur Rahman added. Right now, they are only focusing on the textile industry, but very soon they will extend their calibration service to the other industries. Dysin is offering textile laboratory services for Bangladesh Textile

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: Amanur Rahman, Managing Director of Dysin International Ltd receiving the ISO17025 accreditation certificate from Md Monwarul Islam, Director General of BAB.

Industry since 1990. They are the first dyestuff company in Bangladesh to provide computerized color matching service since 1998. Now Dysin has fully equipped1. Application Lab 2. Textile Testing Lab 3. Calibration Lab 4. Chemical R&D Lab and 5. Printing Lab Dysin Textile Testing lab was founded in 2008 for providing Textile Testing service to its

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customers. The testing laboratory is accredited by Bangladesh Accreditation Board (BAB) on 30th June, 2013. The accreditation certificate for ISO/IEC-17025 is a milestone in this journey. This laboratory is now providing accredited testing service at an affordable cost to the textile industry commercially. They also provide consultation on ISO/IEC-17025 accreditation of Textile Testing and Calibration Laboratory. Dysin also conducts training on AATCC methods for textile testing jointly with Textile Today Training.

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Venue: The House of Textile Today, 25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka-1230

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Unveiling industry best practices

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Knitting & Knitwear Marc h 2 01 9

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 03 l Pages 79 to 96

Unveiling industry best practices

See advertisement at page 87

Intertextile showcased 4 key trends of Spring/ Summer 2020

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Pailung machine is good option for knitters to swell productivity and profitability

Knitting & Knitwear

More innovation and investment can boom Bangladesh's knitwear industry

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More innovation and investment can boom Bangladesh's knitwear industry Abir Basak Bangladesh knitwear export has increased by 11.76% to 16.24 billion USD in 2018 compared to last calendar year that was 14.30 billion USD in 2017. One of the prime reasons for this outstanding growth of the knitwear industry is the preferences of the new young generation. The taste of fashion lovers has been switched. Due to its best of touch and feel factors, knitted is being preferred over woven. The best part about knitwear is its versatility. It can be worn formally as well as casually, depending on the mood and place. People today do not look at t-shirts as a basic item of clothing, but something that can express their attitude towards life. Knit t-shirt or polo shirt is getting popularity among youth and aged because of having different looks and less hassle for quick outwear. Md. Amran Khan, Manager (Knit Division) of Echotex Ltd said, “Despite being a bit strong in woven, the knitwear industry of Bangladesh is on a double-digit growth trajectory. The Bangladeshi knit industry is gearing up for a bigger play in the RMG. Trade in knitwear is running better compared to woven and there is an increased demand for knitted apparels as Bangladesh is selfsufficient in the knit sector.” “Styles and designs can be changed easily and faster in knitted garments, but not in a woven. These garments are easy to maintain and comfortable to wear Bangladesh Textile Today |

addition of woven products is less than knit products. The capital investment required for starting a new knitting unit is lower comparatively over other fabric making units. Stakeholders are investing to upgrade knit machinery to go for value addition. This will boost the buyer’s confidence and they will place orders for higher end knit products in Bangladesh.

Figure 1: Bangladesh is witnessing an outstanding growth in the knitwear industry.

compared to the woven-market,” Amran Khan added. Knitwear production growing rapidly Almost 1500 factories in Bangladesh makes knit clothes, according to BKMEA. Knit products exports are on the rise as Bangladesh has a strong backward linkage and good productivity. However, woven products manufacturers are highly dependent on import for fabrics which costs more. As a result, export earnings from knit goods have seen healthier growth and it is gaining its strength in the global market. On the other hand, the value

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Knitwear is also popular in the domestic market. Knitwear products are more favorable in the mild weather countries like Bangladesh where hot atmosphere prevails for 9-10 months. So, the country's fashion houses and local suppliers are seen to work more with light GSM knit tee or polo shirts and tops in the summer while heavy GSM knit hoody or pullover are seen in the winter. Besides, woven is also given more precedence. Variety of knitwear products In the case of making, Bangladesh is producing more basic knit items like innerwear, t-shirt, pullover, sweater, hoodies, trousers, leggings etc. But currently, manufacturers are making highvalue items with knit. Flat or single jersey, purl, rib, interlock, jacquard, fleece, burn out the single jersey, micro or baby terry, pique, lacoste, pique slub, mesh, french terry fabrics (inside brushed) etc fabrics are being made in our country. Knit denim

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and stripe attires are spreading craze among the young generation nowadays. Knitting R&D Along with wash and dyeing, in almost every factory knitting has an R&D department to develop better products. It's such a department where all kinds of new fashionable creation have been developed and designers try to show their immense creativity level. To earn more profit scale and tempt to global buyers, factories need to emphasize on knitting R&D section more where new designs, new style, new innovations will be born. Innovations in knitwear The biggest innovations that are happening currently are in the recycled, eco-friendly fabrics as more global brands are adopting them. Knitwear, today is more appealing and attractive compared to before. New creative technologies have been invented to beautify knit items such as digital printing, glossy foil prints, inkjet printing and these are heating up the market. Knit wash is the key at this moment and is going to be a new fashion trend. Jacquard, special or fancier yarns are another fabric that is gaining popularity. Knit fabrics are seen to be used in furniture and footwear making nowadays which looks really attractive and glamorous. Seamless knitting and finishing technology are two of the major innovations in the knitwear world. This warp knitting machinery manufacturer sees significant opportunities in the seamless market and has been expanding its activities in that area. Shima Seiki is the largest and one of the oldest automated knitting machine producers. Mayer & Cie and Pilung offer advance semi-automated knitting machine for circular knitting. Stoll, Cixing and Groz-Beckert are another two leaders in knitting

Figure 2: Stronger 'Product Development' is enabling local manufacturers both in global and local markets.

automation. Recently Pilung develops its four-track singlejersey float plating machine to produce a knit fabric that looks like a woven but has the feel and breathe-ability of a knit. The industry’s machine manufacturers have focused on increased energy efficiency and waste reduction, moving more towards sustainability. Md. Atikur Rahman, Programmer (Knit Fabric Design and Development) of Ningbo Cixing Co. Ltd said, “Bangladesh is still relying on old technology while only a few factories are using automated jacquard or flatbed jacquard machine. That’s why we cannot make enough high valueadded items. Now knitting speed is 1.30 meter/sec whereas it was 0.9. The automation will help us reducing wages and makes sure more productivity if we all adopt it soon.” Global market The global market for knitwear is growing rapidly, and Bangladesh has a huge scope to expand its export to the global arena. Europe is identified as the single largest regional market for knitwear, although the US dominates with

55% market share. The Asia Pacific like China, India, Bangladesh etc are currently growing to be a promising market for the same. The global knitwear market is competitive and fragmented. The knitwear fabrics and interactive textiles market will return to growth, reaching a value of US$ 364.8bn by 2020, according to new research by Global Industry Analysts (GIA). It seems that the revival of economic growth, recovery of consumer confidence, product innovations and sustainability would all help to put growth back on track. It can be safely assumed that the knitwear industry lifecycle is at the mature stage. Conclusion It is said that knitting Industry is the biggest contributor and backbone behind the RMG growth in Bangladesh. This industry has progressed due to the low cost of making, adequate order, better profits, skilled manpower etc. To reach targeted USD 50 billion dream by 2021, this country will have to invest more in this sector. The focus should also be given more on design and innovationoriented products.

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Volume 12, Issue 03

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Pailung machine is good option for knitters to swell productivity and profitability Vincent Fang, Sales Deputy Manager of Pailung Haroon Ur Rashid, CEO of Tex Excellence Limited Pailung Machinery Mill Co. Ltd. is one of the leading knitting technology and solution provider in the world. They have a huge variety of machines for the knitters. Pailungs’ yearly turn-over is around USD 62.5 million and in Bangladesh, they have almost 30% market share. More than 6000 Pailung machines are installed here in Bangladesh. Recently Textile Today Team had a conversation with Vincent Fang, Sales Deputy Manager of Pailung and Haroon Ur Rashid, CEO of Tex Excellence Limited (Bangladeshi agent of Pailung) about how Pailung is operating in Bangladesh and what more they are going to offer Bangladeshi manufacturers. Textile Today: Please update us on Pailung current status. Vincent: As you know that we have started our glorious journey from 1977. Right now our machines are available in 72 countries through over 35 agents. Pailung has around 200 types of machines where Bangladeshi manufacturers have more than 5 popular types of machinery. We have collaboration with many brands to create supreme quality fabrics. In 2009, Pailung acquired the historic Vanguard Supreme Machinery Company, thus Vanguard Pailung was formed.

Figure 1: Vincent Fang, Sales Deputy Manager of Pailung.

With over 80 knitting machine variations, and 6,000 fabric options, Pailung not only offers a very wide range of product but has also developed an experience that is uniquely customizable based on each client’s need.

manufacturers with its technology?

Textile Today: How is Pailung supporting the brands and

We have ‘Open Innovation lab’ (OIL) platform which differentiates

Vincent: At Pailung our goal is to help brands, designers and manufacturers to develop innovative fabric technologies that will boldly transform end results.

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Pailung from others. The core objective of this OIL is to find the solutions of most challenging textile problems. If any of our customers comes with any new idea we try to materialize the idea here in OIL. Giant brands like Nike, Adidas, Under Armour and their key suppliers share their ideas with us and we develop fabrics together which may come in the market 10 years later! This is how we actually support and work with brands, designers, and manufacturers. Figure 2: Pailung machine installed at Palmal Group. We not only collaborate with our clients to build better knitting machines, owners are not much focused on also build and ship them faster, the knitting section rather they allowing us to keep pace with our are more focused on garments client's most challenging needs sections. Though, the scenario and aspirations. is changing as the industry is

Textile Today: How is Pailung contributing to Bangladesh knitting sector to meet the profitability crisis?

entering into the third generation. So, it is high time to look into this sector if we really want to secure profitability.

Haroon Ur Rashid: It is true that profit margin in the knitting sector is very tight, but still there are many ways I think to placate this situation. As I am a technology provider, I can say that Pailung knitting machine is a very good option for the knitters. Because it is feasible in every way.

Textile Today: Does Pailung has any intensive plan to support the Bangladeshi manufacturers in the future?

We also help the factories by providing technological solutions. We provide customized coarse gauge machine to produce sweater like fabric to DBL Group, a renowned textile business entity in Bangladesh. Other than DBL, N.R. Group has a huge quantity of Pailung machinery, Palmal Groups’ 80% knitting machine is Pailung, Metro Knitting & Dyeing Mills Ltd also has a good number of Pailung machines. As of my experience, usually,

Vincent: Service and know-how is our main strength. Quick sales service and right feedback for a solution are more important than providing technology. We also have plan to give some facility like technical training facility to enhance the efficiency and make people familiar with the new technology. Haroon Ur Rashid: As we are the sole agent of Pailung in Bangladesh, we want to introduce more new technology of Pailung in Bangladesh. As Vincent already mentioned in the answer to the first question, in Bangladesh, more types of machinery are available among 200 types machine of Pailung. We are also committed to

giving the best service. Textile Today: What are the major innovations Pailung going to bring in ITMA 2019? Vincent: Pailung always the pioneer in the innovation of machine and fabrics. And we all know that ITMA is the biggest trendsetting textile machine and technology platform where the industry converges every four years to explore fresh ideas, effective solutions and collaborative partnerships for business growth. From Pailung we also have some groundbreaking innovations that I’m not revealing everything right now (Vincent smiling). We are going to bring the advanced industry 4.0 concept in knitting application, uneven spacer fabric (usually spacer fabric edges are even), 3 layers fabric to replace part of the laminated skill in current activewear, Quadro fabric (lycra will stretch in fourway), spacer mesh fabric in sports shoe upper and many more. All are welcomed at ITMA 2019 to visit our stall and experience the best innovations in knitting!

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Courtesy: turbulentintellect

Global sportswear market to touch $36b by 2024 Desk Report The global sports goods retail market size will reach $36 billion by 2024 from $21 billion now, on the back of increasing use of sportswear items worldwide, according to a report published on Business Matters, a leading UK-based business magazine, on 15 March. “For one thing, growth is being driven worldwide by continuous innovation and development on the part of major producers. Namely, the design and manufacture of the most gorgeous sporting accessories, sports apparel and general memorabilia ever created,” said Business Matters, a leading UK-based business magazine, said the report. “You only have to look at the quality of today's sports posters, football strips, and novelty collectibles to see how far things have come. Some of the world's most important emerging markets are also playing a role in driving the industry's growth.” The magazine said thriving economies like India and China are contributing enormously to the growth of the industry, as millions of new customers spend

vast combined sums of cash on sporting merchandise. Of the total $32.92 billion worth of garment items exported from Bangladesh in the last fiscal year, more than 10 percent was sportswear garment items, according to the industry insiders. A new opportunity has opened up for Bangladesh, the world's second-largest garment exporter after China, as an increased number of global fashion retailers and brands are placing work orders to source sportswear along with other garment items. Almost all major sportswear brands and retailers like Reebok, Nike, Adidas, Decathlon and Puma purchase sports garments from Bangladesh as local apparel manufacturers are capable of meeting their demand. Many factories have separate machinery to make sportswear items. Almost all the major compliant garment factories in Bangladesh have sportswear making facility as the number of foreign retailers and brands seeking such goods from Bangladesh is growing.

Mohammed Hatem, Managing Director of Narayanganj-based garment factory MB Knit Fashions Limited, said production of sportswear items requires a special kind of fabric which can absorb sweat quickly. “I have received a lot of work orders for sportswear garment items recently, but I do not have the fabrics. So, I have to import the fabrics from China,” said Hatem, also a former Vice-President of the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association. MB Knit Fashions Limited exports total $15 million-worth per year, of them, at least 3 percent comes from sportswear sales. Bangladeshi manufacturers have a lack of technical know-how on sportswear production, and also for the lack of skilled people they can not expand in this regarding the market. “We need technical know-how and skilled people to grab more of the sportswear market worldwide. We have machines and markets. Now, we need special attention in this particular area,” he advised.

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F a s h i o n Tr e n d

Intertextile showcased 4 key trends of Spring/ Summer 2020 Special Correspondent Spring edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabric displayed four key trends of Spring/Summer 2020 trends. “In the coming era, technological innovations and human experiences will become inseparable,” the latest Intertextile Directions trend guide, presented by Designer Michel, explained the season’s new theme, Hybrid. Exhibitors at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition displayed on-trend fabric samples at the Intertextile Directions Trend Forum, while more in-depth analysis of 2020 trends was discussed in a series of seminars. This edition’s fringe program has taken place in three onsite venues, each dedicated to a different topic, covering trends, sustainability, and business strategies, and was also featured three-panel discussions. The latest Intertextile Directions fabric and pattern trends for Spring/Summer 2020 illustrated a world of sustainable fashion, where innovative technology supports fashion for modern lifestyles. Sustainability was at the core of these trends, as the fashion industry’s eco-footprint remains firmly in the global spotlight. Meanwhile, with the next generation expressing self-identity and activism online, fabrics for stand-out fashion are on offer. The season’s new theme ‘Hybrid’ covered four trends Human Vision: Emphasizing on the history of mankind and the great civilizations following colors

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 1: A visitor is looking for a perfect fabric at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel FabricSpring Edition that showcased Spring/Summer 2020 trends under the new theme ‘Hybrid’

and trends were being promoted in this trend. The trend explored the intersection between manmade and natural, adding technology for contemporary style in neutral color palettes. Earth Energy: With more application of natural resources, sustainability was sought in fabrics and designs. The trend tailors for a responsibly slow living, with eco-conscious materials, such as organic cotton, linen, and denim with technical coatings for functionality. Well Lab: It was a touch of light color ranges and delicacy to promote the beauty and strength of youth and its well-being characters. The trend was inspired by future-thinking revolutionaries – eco-friendly materials were repackaged in vibrant colors, showcasing a bright new attitude to sustainability. Hype Glam: To challenge the challenges coming towards the

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glamorous lifestyles, strong party colors and hypes have been promoted strongly. This trend presentd glamorous materials with eye-catching effects, while sports lifestyle influences add hightech performance for ease and functionality. Intertextile Apparel’s fringe program was a useful platform for dialogue between industry players – while exhibitors and other experts presented their ideas and collections, audiences gained useful insight into industry topics and trends. This edition, three onsite venues was specialized in different topics. Textile Dialogue hold design and trend seminars such as Data and Garment Accessories Trends by Shanghai Shide Network Technology; Intertextile Spring/ Summer 2020 Fashion Trends by NellyRodi Agency; and Spring/ Summer 2020 Denim Fabric Trends by Prosperity Textile.

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Figure 2: Designer Michel presented the trends at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabric Expo Spring Edition on 12th March 2019.

More trend seminars also held by Pantone, COLORO, PeclersParis, and Italtex, while a CTIC Trend Forum can be found across the hall, in Talking Point, along with other highlights including Digital Printing Forum, and Changing Trends and Challenges for Vietnam’s Textile and Garment Industry panel discussion by VITAS.

On the final day of the fair, CTIC holds the Future Forum, bringing together new textile products, technologies, green solutions and services targeted at the China market. Other fringe program highlights included three domestic trend forums and an open workshop held by CNTAC. They invited finance (HSBC), R&D and

sustainability institutions (WWF) to create an industry-wide platform for innovative technology promotion. Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition 2019 was co-organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Textile Information Centre.

Turkey exports record quantity of socks Desk Report In the first 10 months of 2018, Turkey's socks manufacturing sector earned US$900 million in revenue. According to recent data released from the Turkish Statistical Institute (TurkStat).

countries, with the Russian Federation, Eastern Europe, Balkan countries, Middle Eastern countries and the Turkic republics among the rising potential markets.

Turkey is the world's secondlargest socks exporter behind China. Turkey made 1.4 billion pairs of socks, most of which were exported to European countries. Turkey accounts for about 9% of global sock production, according to İlker Öztaş, Chairman, Hosiery Manufacturers Association. "Our market share is above 16% in EU countries and our country is the biggest supplier of socks after China," Öztaş said. 90

"Turkey ranks first in the UK with a market share of around 32% and second in Germany with a market share of 20% after China," İlker Öztaş also added. Around 85% of Turkey's socks production is exported and 90% of foreign sales are made to EU

"African countries, which have a low level of sock consumption and sock wear, are an opportunity for us. On the other hand, I think that the US market is of great importance for our sector. I think we will reach a better position in the US market by making a new move in the country with the appreciation of the dollar," İlker Öztaş expressed.

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www.knitdenim.com

Hengliang textile, as a national knitting denim product development base enterprise, after more than ten years of growth and development, has become a number of domestic and foreign clothing brands designated fabric suppliers. Company equipped with rope dyeing production line, imported circular knitting machine, high speed warp knitting machine, finish line, and other knitted denim production equipment, dyeing, weaving and finishing of knitted denim comprehensive management and production, have professional scale. Company produces 5000 tons of hengliang brand knitted denim corn yarns, 8,500 tons of hengliang brand knitted denim fabrics, and 2.5 million pieces of knitted denim garments annually. The company’s main customer base at present is throughout Europe, America and southeast Asia, enjoying a good reputation in the denim industry and fast fashion brands at home and abroad.

Indigo knit

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 Bangladesh

apparel enterprises moving ahead overcoming mammoth challenges Akbor Haider Munna, Director, Youth Group

Akbor Haider Munna, Director, Youth Group and a young entrepreneur, shared his views on the infrastructural problem, automation and economic zone in a recent conversation with Textile Today FT Research Team. Here is the glimpse of the discussion for the readers. Bad impact on export due to traffic Lack of infrastructural facilities which is a by-product of bureaucratic tangles is one of the major barriers to the industrialization of the country. Garment industries are divided into several zones including Gazipur, Tangail, Mymensingh, Chandra, Ashulia, Dhaka, Narsingdi etc. These zones have numerous factories and the using of vehicles to export-import creates heavy traffic on the road. According to industrial police, around 2000 factories situated at AshuliaGazipur zone. Due to the slow construction of Konabari and

Chandra flyover, a couple of hours are being wasted on the highway. Also, the government is not taking any visible step to facilitate the Ashulia road. Our buyers wonder how Bangladesh is managing such horrible traffic condition as they experience the horrible traffic when visiting Bangladesh. Literally, this traffic is killing our valuable working hours and the fourlane highways are not giving us expected facility. When a buyer says they will visit us, full management get anxious! This is not just happening with us, this is the story of every manufacturer who is dealing with foreign buyers. However, if the effective initiative is taken from the government to reduce traffic congestion and it also helps the factories, then this horrendous situation could be mitigated. In the Gazipur belt, there are more than 400 factories and

around 2000 or more vehicles daily route to give the employee's a transport service. But, if there were a shuttle train or professional bus service then this traffic could be avoided. Besides, highway traffic management can take the responsibility to facilitate the industrial zones properly. Fixed plot in economic zone may create difficulty Bangladesh economy is witnessing a boom like never before. RMG sector has a dream to export $50 billion by 2021. To make the dream come true and attract large-scale foreign investment, the Bangladesh government took a great initiative to establish 100 special economic zones across the country on 75,000 acres of land by 2030. Usually, there is fixed plot for each factory in an economic zone. But if the business goes well and after a certain time the miller will want to expand and I think it will be difficult because of limited land. In

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that case, we can build a factory outside of the economic zone if the government approves. Stable business environment is must On the other hand, labor or political discontent is a barrier to run business in Bangladesh, an RMG friendly country. If any unwanted situation happens like political turmoil or price reduction by the buyers, small factories cannot survive in the business. So, keeping in mind the present scenario, big factories should be made instead of a 3/4-line garment. The industry is fast forwarding towards automation. Industry stakeholders are anxious that if automation is adopted, labor employment will be clipped extensively from the textile and apparel industry.

Figure 2: Huge tailback of traffic choking the apparel export and the Bangladesh Government needs to find a way out to meet the $50 billion export target by 2021.

However, we are not unanimous about this issue. Migration percentage of workers in Comfit per month is around only 6-10%.

Although automation will bring profit margin, cost-effectiveness, generating more foreign currency, increasing production and ultimate relief for the

If a worker gives 80% efficiency, after his/her migration the post is appointed with someone new who again need at least 6 months to gain the same level of efficiency. But, there is no problem with automated machinery. From the beginning, it will work with 100% efficiency.

manufacturers, end of the day, it will directly cut employment. Besides, we need political stability for economic development. Infrastructural support is a priority, and both the government and the textile and apparel industry must work in tandem. The government should take a proper decision about the transport issue especially for making 4 lanes in Ashulia and Gazipur highway.

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Bangladesh joins ‘International Federation of Knitting Technologists’ Staff Correspondent Bangladesh is the second largest apparel exporter in the world. There are huge scopes for the fabric or garments manufacturers if they focus more on research and development. To facilitate and develop learning culture all over the world especially in knitting, International Federation of Knitting Technologists (IFKT) has been working since 1956. Bangladesh and USA joined in 49th International Congress of IFKT in 2018 at Lodz, Poland.

Bangladesh and USA joined as the new members of IFKT. The next IFKT Congress is expected to take place in 2020 at Belfast, Ireland. “Bangladeshi experts, professionals, under graduate students and those who are working in knitting sectors can submit their papers to us, after some screening process their papers will be selected for the presentation,” Haroon Ur Rashid said.

In the July-February period of the fiscal year 2018-19 knitwear products earned $11.5 billion, which is 13.5 percent higher than the same period a year ago. Main focus of 49th congress was to explain and discuss the global development in the textile field, especially related to the knitting area including new aspects of design, new process and technologies and new products were presented. The congress was like a get together of scientists,

Figure 1: 49th International Congress of International Federation of Knitting Technologists (IFKT) held in 2018 at Lodz, Poland.

Engineer Haroon Ur Rashid participated as the President of IFKT Bangladesh chapter at the 49th International Congress from 2-4th October 2018. Experts from around the globe presented 20 keynote papers in the congress, focusing the global development in the textile field, in particular the knitting sector. Among the 12 countries, participated at the event,

In addition to his textile engineering background, Haroon Ur Rashid has been working in this field since 1993. He is solely working for advanced and sustainable knitting industry in Bangladesh to bridge with the wider spectrum of the world. “IFKT could be a great platform for Bangladeshi experts to get recognition worldwide,” Haroon Ur Rashid added further.

engineers and all technical persons from the textile and related industries all over the world. Some of the research topics were presented at 49th congress: Investigation of thermal comfort properties of double face knitted fabrics; New weft insertion technology for warp knitting; The evaluation of microclimate comfort properties of wool fiber-content seamless garments; Tensile properties of rib knitwear

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influenced by yarn produced by different spinning technologies; Positive effects of knitting on the psychology of people; Efficiency evaluation of bioactive textiles protecting against Tick-Borne diseases; Micro plastics shedding from knitted polyester fabric; Thermal diffusivity property of some footwear material packages; The modified textiles with using permethrin properties and assessment of insecticide content etc. The International Federation of Knitting Technologists was founded in 1956. It was conceived to establish friendly ties between works managers, technicians and knitting specialists from different countries and thus promote the general interests of the knitting industry and its further technical development.

Figure 2: Engr. Haroon Ur Rashid, President, IFKT Bangladesh.

The organization holds annual conferences, termed International Congress, since 1958, with the first one dating back to 1956. Countries that organized International Congresses so far are Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,

Czech Republic, Germany, Great Britain, France, Hungary, India, Israel, Italy, Poland, Russia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the US. Bangladesh could also be a proud organizer of IFKT International Congress.

If anyone is interested to submit paper, please visit IFKT website- www.knittingfed.com

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Digital textile printing to bring a new era for Bangladesh textile industry Impress-Newtex focuses on top quality printing

Young entrepreneurs can start new business in screen printing

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Digital textile printing to bring a new era for Bangladesh textile industry involves painting with resist techniques using patterns prior to coloring or dyeing the fabric.

FT Research Team

Digital textile printing

Printing on textiles, which are materials made from natural or man-made fibers, has been around since the 3rd Century B.C. People create printed textiles to produce attractive designs on fabric. These designs form artistic arrangements or motifs in a variety of colors and patterns. Dyes or pigments bond with fibers in the fabric and help to protect printed fabrics from fading. The two primary techniques of printing on textile fabrics can be classified as coloring and patterning. The former technique consists of the direct application of color to fabric whereas the latter technique

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Digital textile printing is often referred to as direct-to-garment printing (DTG). It is the method of adding colorful designs to numerous sorts of texture or fabrics by utilizing digital inkjet printing equipment. It is considered to be more costly than conventional or traditional textile dyeing. Digital textile printing gives the capacity to print detailed outlines in splendid colors. One of the main reasons driving the market is continuous advancement or innovation of new technologies. Conventional print creates a huge bunch of effluents which are

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hazardous for the ecosystem and even for the human being. The technology makes possible to have faster production cycles, to reduce the water consumption. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why digital inject all over printing is becoming very popular day by day due to the less environmental impact. Nowadays, consumers want to change frequently and give them a much greater individual touch. There is scarcely any other technology that combines brilliant colors, wonderful designs, and production on demand with low resource utilization. Currently, 60 percent of digitally printed textiles are produced in Bangladesh, India, Indonesia, Pakistan, and Vietnam. Due to the increase in demand, many of the factories in

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Digital Printing

2.66

1.29

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Figure 2: Projected digital all over printing clothing market size in value (USD in billion).

Figure 1: Colorful digital print.

Bangladesh are opening the digital printing section. According to the UK-based market research firm Smithers Pira report on “The Future of Digital Textile Printing to 2021”, the future of digital textile printing to 2021 confirms that this industry segment will continue to see double-digit strong growth across the 2016-2021 period. Its exclusive data shows that a total of 870 million square meters of fabric were printed on digital equipment in 2016 and was worth the US $1.29 billion.

1.95

0.87

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2021

Figure 3: Projected digital all over printing clothing market size in volume (Billion square meters of fabric).

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This volume is expected to increase a rate of 17.5% CAGR across the next two years to 2021, consuming nearly 1.95 billion square meters in that year and a market value of US $2.66 billion. This rapid and lucrative market expansion is being fueled by a series of factors – including technological innovations and evolving end-user demands – all of which are examined and quantified in full in this report. Digital textile printing in Bangladesh The current shoppers are quite fashionable. So the garments manufactures are also making garments keeping fashion in the mind. New technologies are developing through which it is easy to work. Bangladesh is going to value addition to achieve the US$50bn exports target by 2021. Digital printing is attracted by buyers of all ages. Due to having its colorful design, it’s used almost in every program. Some forward-looking Bangladeshi companies have started making the digital makeover anyway. Square, Liz Group, Habil, Masco Group, Knit Concern, Metro Group, Padma Textiles, and Mondol Group are among the big-name producers and exporters involved in large-scale digital printing.

When talked with a textile insider regarding digital printing, he said, “Though digital printing is expensive we want to move to value-added products. Demand is increasing of it day by day, now it is time to get a fair price from buyers.” Engr. Md. Liaquat Ali, General Manager (Printing), Midland Knitwear Ltd, said, “Printing is now a thrust sector in the garment industry of Bangladesh. You’ve got to sustain your business through printing now it is time to value addition.” He further said, “I see only growth and textile printing will keep growing over the next 30 years. Bangladesh is now the main hub for printing because garments are here. Where else will it go from Bangladesh? The Myanmar government is not interested. African countries couldn’t brand them well.” Faruque Hassan, a Senior Vice President of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), said, factories should not mind spending on digital printing to harvest higher margins. Now, we get US$1-US$1.5 for a T-shirt. But digital print will help us fetch US$4-US$5. Even if we spend US$1 on print, we’ll get US$2-$US3

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margins. The international market doesn’t want to take single-design clothing much as manual printing had made it difficult for the manufacturers to bring variety to designs in the past, he added. Digital all over printing in Bangladesh The cost of digital all over printing machinery is usually ten times higher than rotary or flat beds. The fashion houses of our country (Aarong, Kay Craft, Cats eye, BishwoRang etc.) have emphasized on all over print. The different show is being organized in the capital. But the production cost in digital inkjet printing machinery could be cost-effective is sustainability and environmental issues are considered. However, the biggest benefit of the digital machine is flexibility, robustness, fast batch/design

Figure 4: Inside of a Bangladeshi all over printing factory.

changing capacity. Though the digital printing cost is more, the color combination can be done as desired. There is no problem to create a screen. Finally, we want to conclude putting a comment, “Quality and accuracy are the first priority in the printing industry. Once your quality falls down you will be out

of business for sure. Furthermore, fast service, understanding whole value chain, RFT, positive mindset about new technology and process adoption etc. are also very important factors that could keep you one step ahead of others,” delivered by Shah Imtiaz, Assistant General Manager & Head of Production, DB Tex Ltd. expressed.

Researcher Presents Case Study on Partially 3D Printed Lace-Like Dress Desk Report basic plain weaves of silk fabric – and did not require an additional closure in the form of a zipper.

Researcher Lushan Sun recently presented her case study about a 3D printed garment, titled “Instilled: 3D Printing Elastic Lace,” at the International Textile and Apparel Association (ITAA) Annual Conference Proceedings. Numerous designers are experimenting with the use of 3D printing in customized apparel design, in order to solve some issues as well as creating a unique design that’s also functional. While some designers, like Continuum Fashion with its N12 bikini, use SLS technology to create articulating structures for clothing, others, such as Israeli fashion designer Danit Peleg, use FDM and more flexible materials to make pieces that are actually comfortable to wear. Sun took FDM and more flexible materials for the study, which focused on the “inspiration of 102

visual illusion.” Sun integrated organic forms, which fused together to look like lace, in the prototype garment, which featured a delicate torso and skirt portion, completed with a flared silk skirt with an uneven hemline. The torso part of the dress, which blends two digital design applications, was lined with silk habotai – one of the most

There were four important phases in the development of the dress. First, Sun explored and sampled the chosen engineered textile prints in order to work out the appearance and color schemes, using Adobe to generate graphics for rendering and manipulation. Draping techniques were then used to develop flat patterns for the flowing piece. The third step consisted of using direct 3D modeling techniques in Rhino to fully reflect the style of the dress’s organic shapes. Finally, Sun used commercial Rit dye to give the 3D printed part of the garment the same ombre transitioning color scheme that the textile portions had.

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Young entrepreneurs can start new business in screen printing Mohammad Nurul Alam Engaging youth in entrepreneurship is the best way to use their potentiality for the RMG sector. Bangladesh is a country where more than 34% of the population is young generation. So young people should not always run after job as soon they complete graduation rather they can create jobs for more people by establishing their own business. But this is not easy within the current context for the youth to run any business unless they have enough money and experiences related to the business area. However, strong willpower can drive someone to establish themselves as an entrepreneur and then no barrier can stop him. For the young entrepreneur, there are several good business areas, which can be the options to start a new business in the textile and RMG industry. Starting a factory of Screen Printing can be a good idea for a young entrepreneur if invests carefully and work hard with dedication and perseverance. A brief discussion to set up a screen print factory: Purchase a running factory One way of starting a new business is to buy a sick factory. Because with the existing factory

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Figure 1: An operator is putting the color paste on the screen for print.

building including the electric power license and power just needs to be turned on and all the legal factor is existing. So, it will not be hard to start immediate production, however, the sick factory can be very expensive because of its all liabilities and outdated machinery. The location and size of the premises

very hot so without better cooling system workers will get sick. Must keep in mind about the availability of water and electricity while selecting the location. Generally to build an ideal premise for a screen print factory, 25003000 sq. is good enough. The floor will include – Factory equipment

If anyone cannot purchase any old factory then better to set up own factory. For a screen print factory most important is to get big premises where there are existing huge ventilation facilities. Because screen printing environment is

Equipment is the most significant part of setting up a screen print factory. For a new entrepreneur, buying, second-hand machines can be a good option to save money if new ones are not afforded. Machine efficiency need

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Store Room

Dark room for screen exposing Production

Floor

Color mixing room

Office Space

Figure 2: Possible layout of a Screen Printing factory.

to be assessed before making a purchase. This can be automated or laborintensive based on investment size. The equipment that requires a screen print factory based on labor-intensive as below – •G lass Table for screen print – minimum 10 mm tempered glass manual flat screenprinting table. Dimensions (L*W*H):1000*1200*780mm per glass size. 30 Meters minimum length of the table for one production line required. Generally, 5 glass table of screen print required for good productivity in a small factory. Per day production can be 5-7 thousand pieces based on color 2-3 screens. •A uto dryer – This is to immediately dry the print color for screen rotation on the garment. Earlier it was done by a worker with hand dryer but due to wages hike industrialists are preferring to the automated dryer.

4. Auto dryer •P rint curing machine – After natural dry of the printed part on the hanging frame, the part need

Hanging printed part for natuaral dry

Hanging printed part on top for natuaral dry

Auto dryer

Light for the table

Curing for plastisol, pigment, flock, HI density, foam, sticker, discharge and all types of inks. Electrical and Gas both machines are available in the market so an entrepreneur should find the suitability. • F ilm exposer machine – Screen printing screens are coated with a light-sensitive emulsion using a scoop coater. When the emulsion is dryed then it requires to place a positive print of the image on the screen. Once UV burns the screen, the emulsion that did not get any UV will wash out of the screen exposing the tiny pin holes. The surrounding areas that were exposed to UV will be cured. Hence the ink will pass through the screen onto the substrate. •S creen making framing machine – Screen stretching is the most important procedure to make the screen. Manual machine to perform the tensioning process of meshes in the frames is useful for small factories. •C olor mixing machine – For screen print color mixing tool is a must. Color variation can be avoided through properly color mixing in the screen print process. •L ight box – Colors appear differently under different lighting sources. To avoid/ reduce the assessment error when performing color contrast,

• H anging frame for natural print dry – Hanging frame on top of glass table is set for: 1. Lighting for the table, 2. Hangging printed part for natural dry, 3. Hanging printed part on top for natural dry and Figure 3: Film exposer machine

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Figure 4: Curing is an important step for printing.

a Light Booth to simulate different light sources to obtain an objective assessment of color and color difference is essential. Color check light box can be accommodated up to 6 light sources. •P ower generator – As Bangladesh, textile and garment industry is suffering hugely due to energy and power crises, so to start any production unit a power generator is compulsory. A print production unit cannot be run without power supply because most of its production process need heat and high temperature.

2. N eed to do extensive research before setting up a factory. The best way to understand the screen print process to work in a print factory for six months. It can be with or without a salary only to know the things in deep and to gather experience. Because without experience screen print factory cannot run with good profit.

10. Good marketing strategy is crucial to run the screen print factory. Hence building a chain relation with the garment merchandiser is more effective. Because they are the key player to get a work order for the factory. If production don't continue in full pledge throughout the year then the project will go in loss gradually.

3. E xperts also suggested getting a mutual partnership with someone who has vast a knowhow in this regard.

11. Finally, integrating the overall health, safety, and environmental regulations is must.

4. T he vast idea is required for best and affordable chemical sourcing.

A total of 4560 garments factories in Bangladesh are exporting apparel products in the global market, of them about 2500 are knit garment factories. Knitwear export has increased by 11.76% to 16.24 billion USD in 2018 compared to last calendar year that was 14.30 billion USD in 2017. Knitwear export earnings of 2018 is 1.71 billion USD higher than the previous year.

5. H azardous substances of the chemical can be very harmful for the industry set up. Hazard free chemical should be used though safe chemical is a bit costly. 6. S killed operator for screen print production is essential. 7. Color maker is the key person who is responsible to make different colors. Based on his skill and experience screen print can get good color matching. 8. R educe production wastage, error, and rework process to get good profitability. 9. P ricing is vital to identify proper pricing and only experience will secure the best deal.

This data is important for the screen print factory because most of the knitted garments are having screen print and all the factory does not have the internal capacity to complete their production. And some knit factories do outsource print, which is a golden opportunity for the screen print supplier. Young entrepreneurs should not miss this opportunity.

Other factors to consider setting up screen print factory While discussing with different print experts regarding setting up a new screen print factory they suggested some tips for the new entrepreneur that can be very helpful for them. Minimum investment of 30 lakh BD Taka is required to set up a screen print factory. Following can be effective for the young entrepreneur. 1. L egal and logistics issue to know in details that needed for a factory set up.

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Figure 5: Screen making framing machine

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Impress-Newtex focuses on top quality printing FT Research Team Printing is a versatile and most significant part of the textile arena. Nowadays 55-60% orders are placed by buyers on print. In the case of print technology, screen and AOP (rotary, flat bed) is known for all. But recently digital AOP is spreading a craze among textile millers although its cost is bit higher. It is said that printing is a complex process as there is no way to recover if any wrong step is done. Printing brings a new dimension and attractive appearance to the fashion. Country’s many investors come forward to invest in the printing sector and Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd (INCTL) is one of them. INCTL has started its printing journey since 2014. Right now, their screen-printing capacity is 1.5 lakh pcs/day. All over printing capacity is 12-14 ton/day which is under installation

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process. But screen printing will be 4.5 lakh pcs and AOP will be 15-20 ton/day within the next two years.

quality of printed attires.

Quality assurance

M&R (4 pcs) and KTK (3pcs) are installed to provide the best manufacturing.

Quality is the key to the success of Impress-Newtex. A skilled workforce and world-class printing machinery are being used here to ensure the

They produce a multitechnological print at a time and especially glitter, puff, photo print, vinyl, emboss, burn out are done

Table: Basic information about Impress-Newtex printing Existing daily capacity

1.5 lakh pcs/day (screen print) & 12-14 ton/day (AOP) (production will be started within one month)

Future expansion

4.5 lakh pcs/day & 15-20 ton/day (within next two years)

Machinery

M&R (4 pcs) (6-12 heads, 8-16 plates) KTK (3pcs) (12-16 heads, 14-42 plates) Jimmer (flat bed) (1 pcs) 10 colors Reggiani (rotary) (2 pcs) 12 colors

Future plan

30 screen print m/cs (within two years)

Printing table

ETP

3 m3/hour (for screen print), AOP ETP is under process to make

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along with the conventional process. They use Jimmer (flat bed) and Reggiani (rotary) for AOP and they have a plan to use digital print in the near future. Raw materials are the key factors in printing where grade changes now and then. As printing is the most sensitive process, that's why to secure quality the full process needs to be supervised especially. They mainly use European branded chemicals and some are from Malaysia and Turkey. Silkflex, CHT, Inkuin are best printing chemicals in the world which are being applied in the printing house since inception. A good printing paste is mainly responsible for good printing effect. Each and every printing chemical go through the standard fundamental quality testing process before it is used in the bulk process. 479 workers and staff are working in a printing house and R&D team has a strong chemistry background. “Our printing management gives the highest importance on purchasing and using right and quality dyes, chemicals to manufacture better goods,” said Md. Anwar Hossen Khan, Manager of Printing. Research and development Impress-Newtex has 11 members of print R&D team and 30 members in all R&D departments where 6 are Italian. These experienced and young enthusiastic persons ensure the total quality of products and develop new designs. Almost 70% of designs are chosen by buyers which are developed by ImpressNewtex. This company is currently working with H&M, C&A, Best

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works are done mostly as a trend, informed Mr. Anwar. Sustainability, environment footsteps and appreciation Protecting the environment is not just a trend; it has been a part of company’s strategy since day one. In this case, they always give the highest priority. Seller, Kaufland, Lidl, Primark, Zara, Cotton On, Celio, Brand machine etc and are making kids & ladies items more. Md. Anwar Hossen Khan, Manager (Printing) of Impress-Newtex Composite Textiles Ltd said, “Printing is such a place where we can convince buyers easily & which can't be possible from other sites. We emphasize on maintaining strong quality to satisfy our customers. Our strength is our variety of products, quality & accuracy.” “Buyers willingly accept our eye catching products and appreciate us continuously for new innovation. Moreover, now we are getting a better prices than before,” he added. Printing fashion The taste of fashion lovers has been changed with time and this phenomenon has touched the printing world too. Due to the growing demand for all over printing along with screen printing, Impress has recently invested in AOP track. But, AOP design is used more to make ladies and kids items. Especially the R&D team monitors the global demand for the next 3 years and then the product is being developed accordingly. Nowadays slogan, theme or writing based print

They have an effective chemical ETP plant with a current capacity of 3 m3/hour and fulfill all the code of conduct requirements of the clients. ETP runs 24 hours to maintain company's strict commitment. Another ETP is under building process only for AOP purpose. This printing house uses non-hazardous, azo-free chemicals with superior formula. The company follows ethical employment practices and adheres to National and International laws on labor employment. Impress-Newtex provides a clean, safe and healthy environment, adopt fair labor practices, reward them with wages without any discrimination and they do not interfere in their freedom of association and personal freedom. The company has an on-site daycare center for the workers' infants/children. There is a plan to harvest rainwater and make rooftop gardening. For better customer satisfaction, this company has achieved 'silver supplier' award from H&M and the best 'strategic supplier' award from C&A. C&A deals more one million USD to purchase Impress's print products. Silkflex has already recognized by giving a special 'sustainability award' to this company for their stunning works.

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SPWA is committed to develop the screen printing sector Staff Correspondent Screen Print Welfare Association (SPWA) published the second annual edition of ‘SHADOW’ a magazine that speaks about screen printing sector. In this regard, a ‘Grand Launching Program’ of ‘SHADOW’ was held on 1 March 2019 at Dhaka Regency hotel where Chief Guest was A.K.M. Mozammel Huq, Liberation War Affairs Minister of Bangladesh. S.M. Anworul Karim, Deputy Director, Dept. of Social Services, Gazipur; S.M. Shahjahan, Deputy Director, BTEB; Helena Jahangir, Director, FBCCI; Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahman, President, ITET; Nesar U Sikder, Member, AATCC; Dr. Fredrick Christopher, Director of Child Poverty, Save the Children in Bangladesh; Tahsinah Ahmed, CEO, UCEP Bangladesh; Zakir Hossain Jewel, Managing Director, Best Style Composite Ltd; Tareq

Figure: ‘Grand Launching Program’ of ‘SHADOW’ observed with leaders of the textile sector.

Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today and Amit K Biswash, Editor & Publisher of The Apparel News were present as the special guest. KM Nazrul Islam Jashim, G.H.M.K Zaman, Md. Omar Faruk, Saiful Islam and many other founding members of Screen Print Welfare Association (SPWA) were also present at the program. Wellwishers, representatives and general members of SPWA also participated in the program actively.

Screen Print Welfare Association (SPWA) is a non-government, non-profit and nonpolitical organization established in 2015 to serve the screen printing professionals’ communities in Bangladesh.

At the program, SPWA extended their hands to late Abdul Kaiyums’ family by giving them 50,000 tk cheque, a member of SPWA. They also gave 20,000 tk to another member for his mother’s medical treatment. All the members of SPWA showed their commitment to bring the association in the next succession level and the invited guests applauded SPWA’s activities towards the development of screen printing sector.

AATCC International Training Program on Evaluating Colorfastness & Physical Properties of Textile. Day-1 Programs Overview of Program & Introduction to AATCC Basic Colour Theory, Gray Scale for Color Change and Color Staining. AATCC Test Methods 8, 15 (Perspiration), 107(Water),61(Laundering:Accelerated), 133 (Heat: Hot Press) AATCC Test Methods 135,150 (Dimensional Changes), 179 (Skewness), 172 ( Non Chlorine Bleach) & 188 ( Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach

Day-2 Programs AATCC Test Method 16 Lightfastness, 125 Light Perspiration ASTM D 1424 Tearing Strength of Fabric by Falling-Pendulum

Md. Amanur Rahman

Director, Dysin-chem Ltd. AATCC Certified Trainer. MBA (IBA) University of Dhaka B.Sc. In Electrical And Electronic Engineering (BUET)

ASTM D 5034 Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabric ASTM D 3775 Fabric Count of Woven Fabric ASTM D 3776 Mass Per Unit Area of fabric AATCC Test Methods 124, 88B, 88C, 143 (Appearance), 22, 35, 42 (Water Resistance), 130 (Soil Release)

Program Schedule: Date : 27th & 28th April 2019 Time : 10.00 AM – 5.30 PM

The Certification:

After successful completion of course the participants will receive prestigious The AATCC Certificate. Also, all participants shall receive one year of free membership in AATCC, which includes a subscription to AATCC Review.

Fees:

Trainer's Profile:

One person from one Organization: BDT 15500/Two or more person from one Organization: BDT 13500/- (Per person)

Contact:

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Manager Industry Engagement & Sub editor Mob: 01734211085

Venue: DYSIN Conference Center & Testing Lab Skylark Point (11th Floor), 24/A Bijoy Nagar 175 S.S. Nazrul Islam Shoronee, Dhaka-1000

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Event Review

Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 2019 concluded successfully Special Correspondent Spring edition of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics 2019 successfully ended with larger product zones and country pavilions. This year’s spring edition proved the fair’s growing recognition from worldwide suppliers who viewed these zones as gateways to the apparel market. Welcoming the VIP buyers and overseas media partners Wilmet Shea, Deputy General Manager, Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, said, “This year, we open the doors for visitors to meet a strong line-up of sourcing options. Around 3300 high-quality exhibitors from 23 countries and regions will join us at this edition. The contribution is done by our valuable including pavilion organizers, associations and Messe Frankfurt sales partners.” She also welcomed the great variety of new international exhibitors “again the show is going to be more sophisticated by having different zones like Accessories Vision, Beyond Denim, the Digital Printing Zone, Functional Lab, and Salon Europe, as well as in country and region pavilions. Not to forget over 2700 high-quality domestic exhibitors staying in different zones as well.”

Figure 1: Faruque Hassan, BGMEA Senior Vice President and Ashaab Hassan, Project Coordinator, Giant Group with Tareq Amin, Founder and CEO, Textile Today at Textile Today booth.

Turkey, and the UK. Salon Europe offered an ideal meeting platform for brands from all over Europe, which in turn attracted highquality buyers. Forum space focused on sustainability. Also, business strategy and technology were discussed. A series of 25 seminars, 3-panel discussions, trend forums, and a Digital Printing Forum provided opportunities for networking and gaining further industry insight. To create further support for

international networking, the fair also arranged 110 meetings through the business matching program. Wilmet Shea welcomed buyer delegations from Bangladesh and Vietnam and invited all to join here in September for the 25th Autumn Edition. Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition 2019 was co-organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry of CCPIT and the China Textile Information Centre.

With an increase in floor space and four new international exhibitors joined the zone this year, including Dessin & Cie from France, Linestudio from Italy, DMD Amsterdam from the Netherlands and Her Studio London from the UK. For those who seek more European exhibitors, Salon Europe brought the best of the European textile industry to China. Countries include Austria, France, Germany, Italy, the Netherlands, Switzerland,

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Calendar 2019 Special Sections in 2019 January February March April May June July August September October November December

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

We are looking for Editorial Case Studies Results of piloting Feasibility reports Product/Service analysis Interviews News & Views etc. For more details, please contact Cell: +88 01775 999 748 Email: info@textiletoday.com.bd

Address: 25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector- 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh.

Knitting & Knitwear

F i b e r to Ya r n

Knitting & Knitwear

F i b e r to Ya r n

Knitting & Knitwear

F i b e r to Ya r n

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

Textile People

Textile Today welcomes its new campus correspondents Special Correspondent Textile Today organized an orientation program to welcome its newly recruited ‘Campus Correspondent 2019’ at Northern Tosrifa factory premises, Tongi on 4 March. Students from different

“There is a huge scarcity of proper soft and technical skilled manpower in Bangladesh. In the future, this demand will increase more. So before entering the competitive job life, one should

way they are contributing to the industry.” Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO of Textile Today introduced and described the activities of Textile Today at a glance.

Figure 1: New campus correspondent with guests at the orientation program.

institutions including BUTEX, NITER, BUFT, AUST, Prime Asia University, South East University, MBSTU, and many others were present. Textile Today has been working with the vision of creating skilled manpower and transforming human capital of Bangladesh textile and apparel industry for 12 years. Mohim Hassan, CEO & Managing Director of Northern Tosrifa Group (NTG) was the Chief Guest of the program. Mizaan Rahman, Sr. HR Manager of NTG and Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO of Textile Today were also present in the orientation program. The speakers talked about the current scenario of the textile sector, upcoming challenges and how to overcome the challenges by self-development and contributing to the industry.

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focus more on self-development and should utilize the resources available in our surroundings,” Mohim Hassan advised the young. Mizaan Rahman said, “NTG is not such a typical business organization, we believe a human is more valuable resource than anything. Our door is always open for anyone who wants to learn. We really appreciate the effort of Textile Today Training and the

“Young people are full of life and naturally those who are proactive, they engage themselves with many activities. One should set his/her goal and then he/she should decide what have to do attaining the goal. Current writers and authors of Textile Today also participated in the program and shared their practical knowledge with the newcomers.

Figure 2: Students from different institutions including BUTEX, NITER, BUFT, AUST, Prime Asia University, and many others were present.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 03

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20-26 JUNE 2019 Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com

VIP Trade Delegation to ITMA 2019 jointly led by

Institution of Textile Engineers and Technologists (ITET) & Textile Today Events (TTE)

Who can join

• Textile & Garments Association members • Textile & Garments Industries Professionals • Brands, Retailers & Buying Office professionals • Trading Companies, Universities & Institution members • Members of government & non-profitable organization • Banks & Financial Institutions

How can we assist

• • • • • •

VIP Greetings & Tours in Fairground Preparing Documents for VISA Application Badge Purchasing Accommodation Air Ticketing Shuttle Service

Interested participants are requested to contact soon

THE INSTITUION OF TEXTILE ENGINEERS AND TECHNOLOGISTS ITET-BANGLADESH

Contact: Amzad Hossain Monir, Cell: +88 01775 999 748, Email: monir@textiletoday.com.bd

THE INSTITUTION OF TEXTILE ENGINEERS AND TECHNOLOGISTS ITET-BANGLADESH

Terms & conditions: • Seat Limited • Textile Today Events has all rights to accept or deny any application.

P ro m o ting Susta ina b ility

F I R E

C O N T R O L

United States of America

FULL PROTECTION FLOW CHART

RING FRAME

ROVING FRAME

FIRE ALARM SYSTEM United States of America

Typical Gamewell-FCI S3 SeriesTM Installation

Optional Digital Communicator

Italy

SLC Loop

Remote Annunciator

Manual Pullstation

wittch LED Sw Switch Control

The erma ma mal Thermal Detector

Di s lay LED Disp Display Driver

e/C /Carbo bo on Fire/Carbon Monoxide Detector

Remo mote te Remote Annunciator

Inte In tell llig ig gen entt Intelligent Duct Detector

O ti t Optional 2nd Loop

NotiďŹ cation Appliance Circuit

RS485 Bus

Graphic Workstation

Ph P hot oto oto Photo Detector

H / St Horn/Strobe

Dual Du D al Input/Output Module

S St t b Strobe

Mult Mu M ltti Cr C itt Multi-Criteria Detector

H Horn rn//S /Str tr Horn/Strobe

Relay Module

P Powe we er Power Booster

Polyurethane Belts

Style 7 for Unsurpassed Survivability

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Italy

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