December 2018 | Textile Today by Textile Today

Bangladesh

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ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 December 2018 www.textiletoday.com.bd

Volume 11 |

Issue 12 | 128 Pages |

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2018

December 2018

Reviewing

U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s

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Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel Editor in Chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim Consulting Editor Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed

SAVE ENERGY save money Use ecofriendly energy saving

Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Managing Editor Akhi Akter Sub Editor Sanjoy Kumar Saha Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum

Effective pretreatment of your knit fabric

Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Rakibul Islam Al Takbir Mahim

money

Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin

Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. ÂŠ All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018 Volume 11, Issue 12 (December 2018) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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Published on 3rd January 2019 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd

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Bangladesh

Driving business with knowledge

ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 December 2018

Issue 12 | 128 Pages |

BDT 200, USD 10

On the Cover

Driving business with knowledge

A c t i v a t e Yo u r L i f e

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS 5.0)

12-14

Editorial

Bangladesh’s textile & apparel industry-safe, sustainable and has more potentials to offer

December’ 18 |

29 Market Analysis Polyester filament sales valued at US$ 87 bn in 2018

Editorial

In Focus

t a l Focu

34-36

Exclusive Interview

There is still huge scope in woven and denim sector

ion

ent

Textile and apparel industry to lose competitiveness in global market if gas price rises

38-40

CSR as a tool to increase "Employer Branding"

47-48

Top Story

Strategies to secure competitiveness in spinning in Bangladesh

50-53 Trade war: Impact on the industry of Bangladesh

24-25 Employment Employment trends in 2018 of Bangladesh textile and apparel industry

tn sh

A quick revise of 2018’s investment trends in Bangladesh textile and apparel sector

20-22 Investment

Par

16-18 Sustainability Bangladesh textile and apparel industry needs to focus more on economic sustainability

Reviewing 2018

Issue 12

45 Factory Taless

30-33

Volume 11 |

Factory Tales

i ro

December 2018

Content

GOTS Approved

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See details at page 81-84

TEXTILE AUXILIARIES

DIAMONTEX P Premium Pigment Inks

2018

Con

Reviewing

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf GmbH & Co. KG is a well known Germany based textile auxiliaries and specialty chemical manufacturer. Their high performance auxiliaries are easing the textile finishing process.

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Bangladesh Textile Today

www.textiletoday.com.bd Volume 11 |

Strategies to secure competitiveness in spinning in Bangladesh

54-56

26-28 However, already hundreds of factories have been closed for several reasons including increased production cost, compliance issues and low price of the product etc. In this reality, how the textile and apparel manufacturers are covering the added cost?

CSR initiatives of Comfit Composite Knit Ltd

58 Turnaround of terry towel sector returns manufacturers motivation

121 21 clothing companies awarded Export Trophy for FY16

Content

December’ 18 |

Supplementary on Sustainable Technology

63-64 Editorial

Processing Today

81-84

Volume 11 |

Issue 12

Denim Today

99-100

All are looking forward to ITMA 2019 to see the next level of sustainable technologies

Bangladesh government has to prioritize denim sector and provide all-out support to the entrepreneurs

66-70 DTG'19 Preview

102-105

DTG 2019 to showcase varieties of sustainable technologies

71-74 Technology Adoption

Viyellatex Group, the first Bangladeshi knit fabric manufacturer ...

85-86 Sustainable Processing

Bangladesh’s denim washing and its fashion scenario

106-107 What will be the denim trend of 2019?

108-110 Denim goes greener through the whole weaving value chain

112

Technology can transform apparel industry

75 BRÜCKNER’s sanforizing range brings best solution for traditional textile

CPB dyeing saves 50% water of Robintex Group

Sustainable Processing

Biolase APC – a combined bio-scouring & bio-polishing enzyme by Raas Biotech

Denim goes greener through the whole weaving value chain

92-93 Exclusive Interview

Denim hubs decline as a new tier of jeans suppliers arise

“Transfar Chemicals is in the global platform with a vision of ethical and sustainable business”

Sustainable warp preparation-economical and good cost : benefit ratio

113

114 20 fashion companies to dominate the world’s fashion industry in 2019

117

94-96 Steam Management Illustrations: Benefits of Condensate Return High Feedwater temp.

Reduced fresh water

High efficency with better boiler health

Reduced Blowdown

Rieter’s customized solutions with upgraded ring and compact spinning machines

Condensate Return

Forbes Marshall solution for recovering condensate and flash steam

Youth gets momentum on entrepreneurship

118-121 Importance and understanding of fashion trend for a merchandiser

Editorial

Bangladesh’s textile & apparel industry- safe, sustainable and has more potentials to offer Rahbar Hossain, Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Bangladesh’s textile industry is progressing with a vision of US$ 50 billion export by 2021. To achieve this export target, significant positive changes are happening here. Industry is seeing a huge transformation in human capital, automation, workplace safety and newly developing with ultra-high facility economic zone establishment. Workers wage increased to almost 51%, which is already implemented from this December, and it is another significant happening. Alongside these positive things, there were many unfavorable situations like devaluation of competing countries currency, unwanted incidents, utility cost and supply shortage, increasing cost of business etc. but the industry growth was in an up-trend in 2018 and still counting. Now Bangladesh almost the first trustworthy name for the international brands. Bangladesh is entering into a new era Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is moving towards digitalization and automation. Industry 4.0 is expecting to enter by the next year, which can be considered as new era. The whole industry is trying to do business in a digital way aiming to maximize profits while achieving zero inventory loss, zero leftover stock, zero lost sales opportunity and most importantly zero waste emission through smart, speedy and sustainable production. Without the automation and integral decision making it won’t be possible. Machinery companies are continuously working on

bringing new featured machinery focusing customers demand.

Human capital transformation is getting success

Industry 4.0 gains momentum in the manufacturing world. The use of artificial intelligence, processing of big data and connecting the dots together in a quick and fast

Though automation trend is increasing but it cannot replace efficient work force significantly. At present the manufacturers are investing immensely to build skilled workforces. This is the year where many factories associated with Textile Today in the march of ‘Human Capital Transformation’. Although automation is making a significant impact, still the textile and apparel industry needs more skilled people. Because of lack of skilled manpower, foreign professionals are taking away almost 5-6 billion dollars every year from the country.

Bangladesh government has already raised the minimum monthly wage for the workers to TK 8,000 ($95) which was TK 5,300 ($65). Now it is time for the workers to be more efficient as the government has kept their demand. Implementing sustainability

decision-making would be the key changes in the industry’s success of Bangladesh. Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA) has been working to set up 100 economic zones by 2030, which will create jobs for about one crore people and produce goods and services worth US$ 40 billion. BEZA has identified 74 locations across the country for setting up economic zones.

Sustainability has been the most uttered word throughout the year 2018 and a number of significant developments happened in this arena. Bangladesh has taken the leading position in sustainable green industrialization with the world’s several top ranked Green factories. As of the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC), Bangladesh’s RMG sector now has 67 Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) green factories. Among them 13 are LEED Platinum rated while more than 280 garment factories in Bangladesh would get the LEED

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Editorial

certification soon. A lot of awareness activities done by many stakeholders including Textile Today. It has launched a training and capacity building program in collaboration with Engineering Resources International (ERI) Ltd aiming to make efficient professionals for the textile industry who will run the Sustainability Department and implement Sustainability Management System (SMS) in the factories and help the same to get the social, environmental and economic benefit and make the textile and apparel industry sustainable in the long run. Bangladesh is the next hotspot for apparel sourcing Bangladesh will remain the apparel sourcing hotspot for international retailers and brands because of competitive prices and China’s

Figure in %

TOP FIVE APPAREL SOURCING COUNTRIES IN NEXT 5 YEARS

35 22

BANGLADESH

ETHIOPIA

MYANMAR

VIETNAM

INDIA

Figure: MCKINSEY report says Bangladesh is one of the top five apparel-sourcing countries in the next five years.

declining market share in garment business, says a global survey. At the same time, the apparel sector improved workplace safety and other compliances after fixing the structural, electrical and fire loopholes. However, to continue the higher export growth, the government should improve the infrastructure and make sure that the Chattogram port and the national airports are running smoothly.

In July-November period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the readymade garment sector went up by 18.59% to US$14.18 billion, which was US$11.96 billion in the same period last year, according to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). It is expected that the growth trend will be continued throughout the 2019 and many more new horizons will open for Bangladesh textile and apparel industry.

RMG export jumps over 18% in July-November Bangladesh RMG sector, the lifeline of the economy, has earned US$14.18 billion in the July-November period of the fiscal year 2018-19. Staff Correspondent In July-November period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the readymade garment sector went up by 18.59% to US$14.18 billion, which was US$11.96 billion in the same period last year, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data released today. The sector has exceeded the export target set for the period. The earnings from the sector were 11.09% higher than the target of $12.76 billion set for the period. Of the total amount, Knitwear products fetched $7.30 billion, which is 17% higher than the $6.24 billion in the same period a year ago. Woven products earned $6.88 billion, up by 20.33%, compared to $5.71 billion a year ago. “Bangladeshi RMG manufacturers have improved the safety standard, which enhanced the

On the other hand, export earnings from the Jute & Jute goods declined by 22.09% to US$0.3515 billion, which was US$0.451 billion in the same period last year. This jute sector could not catch the export target set for the period. The Figure: Bangladesh exports earnings from RMG earnings from the sector sector have seen an 18% growth in July-November, were 17.07% lower than the 2018. target of 0.4238 billion set for the period. buyer’s confidence and they are now placing more orders. Another Now, let’s see what happen to thing is, buyers are concerned the home textile, export earnings about the new minimum wage for from the home textile increased by the garments workers which will 2.92% to US$0.3407 billion, which be applicable from December, so was US$0.331 billion in the same they did more order throughout period last year. the year,” Bangladesh Knitwear This home textile sector could not Manufacturers and Exporters catch the export target set for the Association (BKMEA) Vice period. The earnings from the sector President Mohammad Hatem said were 7.22% lower than the target of the Textile Today. 0.3672 billion set for the period.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Reviewing 2018

Sustainability

Bangladesh textile and apparel industry needs to focus more on economic sustainability Textile Today Analysis Sustainability has often been defined as only an environmental issue. But, the 21st-century definition of sustainability goes far beyond these limits. In the present day, it refers to a balancing act that meets the need of the present without compromising the wellbeing of future generations. For textile and apparel industry, one of the basic industries, sustainability means to ensure environmental, social and economic balancing in the business process. Sustainability in Bangladesh textile and apparel industry 2018 has been a long and eventful year, where textile and garment sector saw an enormous growth. Sustainability has been the most uttered word throughout the year and it was not only discussed, a number of significant developments were happened in the gamut. However, progress has been made more in the environment and social sustainability but not in economic sustainability. The economic sustainability is also equally important like other two elements. Without settling economic sustainability how could the textile and apparel manufacturers ensure environment and social sustainability? Manufacturers cannot ensure them for a long time without upholding economic sustainability.

Tarasima Apparels

Mithela Textile Industries Limited

Plummy Fashions Vintage Denim Studio

SQ ColBlanc

LEED Platinum certified factories

SQ Birichina

Columbia Washing Plant

Envoy Textiles Ltd

Genesis Fashions

Genesis Washing

Echotex Kaniz Fashions

SQ Celsius Unit 2

Bangladesh goes on top to secure LEED certification

It has been long and eventful year 2018, where textile and garment sector saw an enormous growth. Sustainability has been the mostly uttered word throughout the year and it was not only discussed, number of significant developments were happened in the gamut.

Bangladesh, the second largest ready-made garment exporter in the world, has taken a leading position in sustainable green industrialization with the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s several top-ranked Green factories. Bangladesh already has become a role model for Green Manufacturing of textile and garment in the world. According to the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC), Bangladeshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s RMG sector now has 67 Leadership in Energy and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Sustainability

90 percent remediation across Accord-affiliated factories is complete

Environmental Design (LEED) green factories. Among them 13 are LEED Platinum rated while more than 280 garment factories in Bangladesh would get the LEED certification soon. In South Asia, Bangladesh has taken the lead in green initiatives. LEED Platinum certified factories are: Tarasima Apparels, Plummy Fashions, Vintage Denim Studio, Columbia Washing Plant, Echotex, SQ Celsius Unit 2, Kaniz Fashions, Genesis Washing, Genesis Fashions, SQ Birichina, SQ ColBlanc, Envoy Textiles Ltd and Mithela Textile Industries Limited (MTIL). A model for ensuring safety standard Significant improvement has been made in safety conditions. National and international reform platforms National Action Plan (NAP), Accord and Alliance have made a visible progress to ensure workplace safety.

Reviewing 2018

93 percent remediation across Alliance-affiliated factories is complete

As of a November update on Accordâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s site, the Accord noted that 90 percent of remediation for safety issues have been completed where the ninety-seven percent of Accord factories have removed lockable and collapsible gates, and 90 percent have adequate lighting in fire exists. On the other hand, 93 percent remediation across Allianceaffiliated factories is complete and 428 factories completed all material items in their initial Corrective Action Plans (CAP), according to the 5th annual report of Alliance. In addition, Alliance declared Bangladesh RMG industry as the safest industry in the world and suggested other rival countries to follow Bangladeshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s safety initiatives. Progress happening in a rapid way Most of the companies now could really understand that sustainability is important for their own. Sustainability today

Figure 1: Now-a-days factory owners are practicing sustainability as it reduces costs and risks. Picture shows first in the world LEED Platinum certified woven processing factory Mithela Textile.

Sustainability

Reviewing 2018

has become companies’ own agenda. And so they are taking some initiatives to become more sustainable. The benefits to be sustainable in all aspectslike social, environmental and economic- will be:

have separate responsible people for sustainability. These people should have tools, capacity, and authority to make a change. Then the innovation cycle will move.”

•C ommitment and transparency to the social and environmental cause •A pioneer among the similar organizations locally and globally •B etter reputation with increasing brand value •M eeting the expectation of stakeholders and employees • I mproved access of funds and capitals • I ncreased resource efficiency and reduction of waste The owners have understood that sustainable practices reduce cost and reduces risks. Thanks to awareness activities done by many stakeholders including Textile Today. ‘Sustainability’ is one of the core pillars of Textile Today that wants to implement the concept throughout the whole textile and apparel industry of Bangladesh. In this regard, it has launched a training and capacity building program in collaboration with Engineering Resources International (ERI) Ltd aiming to make efficient professionals for the textile industry who will run the Sustainability Department and implement Sustainability Management System (SMS) in the factories and help the same to get the social, environmental and

economic benefit and make the industry sustainable in the long run. Tareq Amin, Founder and CEO of Textile Today said, “In a world where people are struggling every moment to sustain in the current status they are living, the fashion and apparel industry, on which millions of peoples are directly dependent have some responsibilities to the society and its’ elements. Stakeholders like the governments, brands and buyers, consumer right protectors, labor right protectors, community right protectors, trade associations, financial institutions and the factories have their own perspective of sustainability.” He said, “This is the time to transform this compliance department into the sustainability department. Whatever you do, you must have a sustainability department, and you must

On the other hand, ZDHC along with bluesign® has increased their presence to promote sustainability. They have been organizing a lot of seminars over the year. First time ever Viyellatex Group has got bluesign® aggrandized certificate as a composite factory. ACS Textiles BD Ltd , Envoy Textiles Limited (ETL) etc. are one of the sustainable factories that other factories can follow them. Sustainability issues bringing significant changes in the approach of textile chemical manufacturing as well. Conclusion The industry felt mostly the lack of ‘Economic’ sustainability, as profitability of the businesses has been significantly low. An average profitability of 5-7 percent is very poor for such a high-risk industry involving so much manual works and complexities in the supply chain. However, concerns over environmental and social issues were not diminished at all. And in future, economic issues will get more attention as discussion and initiatives are ongoing towards it.

Figure 2: Textile Today and Engineering Resources International (ERI) Ltd jointly launched a campaign for 'Implementing Sustainability' in Textile & Apparel industry.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

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Reviewing 2018

Investment

A quick revise of 2018’s investment trends in Bangladesh textile and apparel sector Local and foreign investments increased significantly in textile and RMG industry Textile Today Analysis Bangladesh’s textile and apparel sector has seen a sharp rise in investment as local investment and Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in 2018 in the sector have increased. However, the overall net inflows of foreign direct investment in the country declined. The country’s textile and apparel sector has received a foreign investment of around $500 million in the year 2018, which was $421.68 million in 2017 and $364.44 million in 2016.

real investment is not completely represented in the figures above. Many existing companies have reinvested and expanded their capacities and exact amounts could not be accumulated. Investment Trend As apparel export has been rising significantly the companies had to increase their production and so they invested to add capacities to their existing plants and also

Existing companies prompted to increase their capacity. The same trend is likely to be continued in the coming days as well. As export of woven garment is increasing, so the demand of woven fabric is also rising. As the buyers were asking for shorter lead-time and they are as well keen to develop a good supply base from Bangladesh, they encouraged Bangladesh companies to invest more in the woven sector. And so

Investment trend of 2018 in Bangladesh Textile & Apparel Industry.

Garments accessories and packaging manufacturers made an investment of Tk722.5 crore

Huge investment was made in green building project

On the other hand, according to a recent data from the Bangladesh Garment Accessories and Packaging Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGAPMEA), garments accessories and packaging manufacturers have made an investment of Tk722.5 crore, with more proposals in the pipeline. New investment has been made in woven fabric production and processing. Bangladesh was having a huge supply gap in woven fabric. A huge amount of denim and non-denim woven fabric is being imported to meet the local demands. However, this is to note that the

Significant investment was made in improving safety conditions

Significant investment has been made in woven and denim fabric production

invested in increasing productivity. Investments made to make the supply chain further smooth and faster. Significant investment has been made in both forward and backward linkage. To cope with supply need to the apparel manufacturers strong demand prevailed for fabric production and accessories production. Some significant number of woven fabric production mills started operation in 2018. Some others have increased their fabric production capacities. Significant investment has been continued to make in the denim sector as well. The growth of knit sector was also continued.

Foreign investment was around $500 million

many companies invested a lot in increasing capacity of producing woven fabric and processing them. A sister concern of Mithela Group, Mithela Textile Industries Limited (MTIL) is world’s first LEED Platinum certified woven dyeing factory. They have invested hugely to develop their production and products quality. “Achieving the LEED Platinum certificate was not that easy, we had to invest huge money for it. We have built a solid reputation and market leadership in this short span of time and over the foundation of quality, timely delivery, and top-class services,” said Azahar Khan, Chairman of

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Investment

Reviewing 2018

Mithela Group and a Director of BTMA. A huge investment was made by the textile and RMG millers in green building project. Of the top 11 LEED-certified factories in the world, eight are from Bangladesh. All eight are “Platinum” rated, which is the highest category that can be reached under this globally recognized certification. Twenty factories are in the LEED Platinum category and 40 are in LEED Gold. Indeed, there are 73 Bangladeshi LEED Green garment factories certified by the USGBC. There are some 320 factories in the pipeline waiting for LEED certification. Significant investment has been made in improving safety conditions. As of a November update on Accord’s site, the Accord noted that 90 percent of remediation for safety issues have been completed where the ninety-seven percent of Accord factories have removed lockable and collapsible gates, and 90 percent have adequate lighting in fire exists. On the other hand, 93 percent remediation across Allianceaffiliated factories is complete and 428 factories completed all material items in their initial Corrective Action Plans (CAP), according to the 5th annual report of Alliance. However, many RMG units have been shut down due to failure in Accord-Alliance inspection process that has increased default loans in the apparel sector. Most of the default loans lie in readymade garment (RMG) and textiles sector in a number of banks in the country. The reason behind the rise of investment As Bangladesh is the second largest exporter of apparel products in the world after China, there is a huge investment opportunity in the textile and garment industry. So, though by the end of the year many

Bangladesh Textile Today |

investment processes have been slowed down due to the approaching election, the year overall has seen some significant investments. The available workforce at a reasonable wage, duty-free market access in the major export destination, preferential location in the heart of the Asia-Pacific region acted as a catalyst to attract foreign investment in the textile and apparel industry. At the same time, the government has reduced corporate tax from

The government has reduced corporate tax from 15% to 12% and also brought down the tax at source on export items, except jute goods, from 0.7% to 0.6% for the current fiscal year for garments sector, the $30 billion industry. It encouraged the local investors, though, they want longtime policy support for the sector that will help them to make the decision for investment.

15% to 12% and also brought down the tax at source on export items, except jute goods, from 0.7% to 0.6% for the current fiscal year for garments sector, the $30 billion industry. It encouraged the local investors, though, they want longtime policy support for the sector that will help them to make the decision for investment. “As a government organization, Bangladesh Investment Development Authority (BIDA) is providing all-out service through one-stop service. While the

Volume 11, Issue 12

digitized system has made the process very easy, which pushed the foreign investment in the textile sector up,” BIDA Executive Chairman Kazi M Aminul Islam said. Bangladesh government has taken steps to establish 100 Special Economic Zones (SEZs). On the other hand, it has given importance to ease the registration process for the foreign as well as the local investors through onestop service, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed said to Textile Today. As a result, foreign investors have become more interested to invest here. In the year to come, the investment in the textile sector from the foreign investors will see a sharp rise as the SEZs are becoming ready for investment, he added. Already, China, Japan, India and many native entrepreneurs, including Sterling Group, invested in SEZs. FDI could be more FDI flow could be more increased if foreign investors got more supports. Many Chinese and multinational companies were interested to invest in fabric production and manufacture dyes and chemicals in Bangladesh. Leading Chinese company Color Root was keen to invest about the US $500 million to set up manufacturing plants in Bangladesh. However, the investment went back as they did not get proper support and facilities in Bangladesh. Md Delwar Hossain, MD of D & D Chemicals (Color Root’s agent in Bangladesh), said, “We needed around 400 bighas land to establish the manufacturing plant and other supports regarding utility and safety. Therefore, the Bangladesh government should have a master plan regarding the matter.” A number of Chinese companies expressed their interest to invest in Bangladesh. Though Bangladesh

Reviewing 2018

Investment

government and textile garments associations like BGMEA and BTMA won’t encourage investment in traditional product production, they welcomed investment in technically new products. They also asked foreign investments which will help to reduce import dependency. “Foreign investment in the textile sector will help Bangladesh building a strong backward linkage for the woven sector,” said Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) President Abdus Salam Murshedy. In an exclusive interview with Textile Today recently Rubana Huq, Managing Director of Mohammadi Group also have mentioned that we don’t need any foreign investment in the products which we easily can do, we need investments in the products which we are not yet habituated. Huge foreign investment has been

Figure : Mirsarai special economic zone is in under construction

made in this year in Bangladesh. Such an example is Huaren Linen Group who has invested in Anwar Group to produce Linen fabric in Bangladesh. Bangladesh has been importing a huge amount of Linen fabric every year. The investment will reduce import dependency of the country. Finally, to attract more

investment from local and foreign investors improvement of trade competitiveness, the increment in physical and social infrastructures, quality of economic and political institutions, reforms in trade policy, monetary and fiscal policies, industrial policy and quality service delivery by the public institutions are needed.

NBR to withdraw VAT on 4 services for RMG sector Apparel makers have been enjoying 100 percent VAT exemption for 13 types of services since 2005, now they will enjoy for more 4 services. Desk Report Association (BKMEA).

Bangladesh’s National Board of Revenue exempted value-added tax (VAT) for four services of the export-oriented readymade garment (RMG) sector. VAT wing of NBR on November 29 issued a statutory regulatory order exempting export-oriented apparel makers from payment of VAT on expenditure for workers welfare and entertainment, laboratory test fee, IT-enabled services, and renta-car facility. The VAT was applicable ranging from 5 percent to 15 percent for the services and RMG sector availed the benefit just a month back of national election scheduled to be held on December 30. Officials said that NBR offered the benefit to the sector following demand from Bangladesh

Expenditure for workers welfare and entertainment

Rent-a-car facility

Laboratory test fee

In fact, the two associations had long been demanding for VAT exemption for all types of services citing recordkeeping complexities as the sector enjoys VAT exemption for most of the services.

Excluding the four new services, apparel makers IT enabled since 2005 have been services enjoying 100 percent VAT exemption for 13 types of services including supply of Figure: NBR is going to withdraw VAT on the above 4 goods and services, security, services for the RMG sector. transport contractors and port services, and partial exemption Garment Manufacturers and up to 80 percent for another three Exporters Association (BGMEA) types of services including electricity, and Bangladesh Knitwear water, and natural gas bills. Manufacturers and Exporters

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Step up the beat Boost your productivity with technologically advanced solutions for weaving preparation – by Stäubli. From warp-tying machines to process-optimisation equipment and automatic drawing-in machines, Stäubli has innovative solutions for

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Reviewing 2018

Employment

Employment trends in 2018 of Bangladesh textile and apparel industry Textile Today Analysis The ready-made garments (RMG) and corresponding textile industry have been the biggest employment generator in Bangladesh. Of the 6.08 crore total workforce of the country, RMG and textile industry is said to generate almost 45 lakh employment together. Till now no comprehensive study is made to know the exact amount of employment in the sector. BGMEA was providing the figures which are only based on the initial information given by their members which has differences with the reality. However, according to a recent survey conducted by the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD), there are 3,596 active RMG factories in

Bangladesh with 35 lakh workers, of which 60.8% are female and 39.2% are male. The number of workers are not increasing As Textile Today has been following the industry, it is understood that for last about 5 years employment in the sector was not increasing significantly. It seems the entry and exit rate of workers are almost same in the sector. Though by this time export has increased significantly but the employment generation didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t increase at the same rate. Only a few years ago, employment generation from RMG sector was 45 lakh. According to the World

Employment Trends in RMG Industry

Overall employment growth was slow

Women employment declines

Foreign experts hiring rate was high

Huge number of textile and apparel graduates entered the sector

Bank, the rate of job creation has slowed down day by day due to the weaker economic growth, infrastructure gap, predominance of informality in labor markets and slow structural reforms. Industry insiders mentioned the progress in technology and the increase of know-how and productivity in the garment industry for the reduction of employment in the sector. Today workers are using new generation machinery and per capita, production and value addition has increased in the textile and apparel industry. The same trend is likely to continue in the coming days. Segments like sweater production have seen a major change in recent times in reducing the number of workers. The textile and apparel industry today is also facing competition with other sectors in attracting workers. With the increase in economic activities in the country, people now ask higher rates and so many people are not much interested to work in textile and RMG industry. The industry has seen a great influx of textile and apparel educated graduate Bangladesh has seen significant growth in textile education in Bangladesh recently. A huge number of university graduates studying in textile and RMG related subjects are coming out from the education system. As there were availability companies now are hiring a good number of such graduates in the positions

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Employment

Reviewing 2018

where previously they were hiring normal graduates. This is bringing a qualitative change in the textile and apparel industry. Now a good number of engineers, designers, and management graduates are joining not only in textile and apparel productionrelated jobs they are widely in marketing, merchandising, IE, product development and in many others sections. Foreign experts hiring rate was high However, according to many industry insiders, the foreign employee-hiring rate is increasing day by day in the RMG sector. Records from different ministries show that around 450,000 foreign nationals, mostly from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, China, Taiwan, South Korea, and some European and African countries are currently working in Bangladesh, mostly in textile and RMG sector. Of them, India has taken 10 billion dollars in 2017 from Bangladesh and it becomes fourth largest remittance source for India. India remitted $ 8.320 billion in 2016 from Bangladesh, which was $4.5 billion in 2014. Women employment trends Faruque Hassan, Senior Vice President of BGMEA & Managing Director of Giant Group said that around 34% of total working people in Bangladesh are women. Interestingly most of the employee is women in RMG sector that have increased women’s contribution in Bangladesh entire economic system. Women are not only working in worker or helper level positions, but they are now also moving towards supervisor level to the top-level positions. However, female workers participation in RMG sector is decreasing due to the automation of manufacturing said a survey conducted by the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD). According to the most recent survey, in

Bangladesh Textile Today |

2015, the female to male workers’ participation ratio was 64:36, but it has now declined to 60.8: 39.2. On the other hand, according to a very recent joint study by the government’s a2i project and International Labour Organization (ILO) female and male, both workers are at risk for automation.

According to industry insiders, the foreign employee-hiring rate is increasing day by day in the RMG sector. Records from different ministries show that around 4,50,000 foreign nationals, mostly from India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, China, Taiwan, South Korea, and some European and African countries are currently working in Bangladesh, mostly in textile and RMG sector. Of them, India has taken 10 billion dollars in 2017 from Bangladesh and it becomes fourth largest remittance source for India. India remitted $ 8.320 billion in 2016 from Bangladesh, which was $4.5 billion in 2014.

The study said, some 27 lakh or 60 percent jobs of RMG sector are till 2041 for the advent of automation in industries and services sector. Initiative to enhance skilled manpower

foreign currency for hiring foreign professionals. Mirza Azam MP, State Minister for Textiles and Jute, said to the Textile Today, “It does not make sense that we will hire efficient manpower from India or Sri Lanka and spend our earned money for them.” In this regard, public and private both sector are working to create efficient manpower. Textile Today Training, an initiative to enhance textile and apparel professionals’ skills, is playing a great role in the development of the people. Tareq Amin, Founder, and CEO, Textile Today, said, “Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is in a crying need for skilled professionals as the industry lacks skilled mid-level management. As a result, every year we see foreign employees take billions of dollars of hard-earned currency.” To mitigate this dire condition Textile Today Training (TTT) has taken the initiative to transform the professionals into efficient human capital through different comprehensive training programs. Textile Today has been working as a platform to integrate resources to train the professionals in the industry and also to people who want to join the sector. Textile Today has joined hands with factories like Northern Tosrifa Group and providing a certificate, yellow, green and black belts in key technical skills areas. TTT is also providing training in Soft Skills Development and also creating professionals for managing sustainability in the industry. On the other hand, BGMEA started Capacity Development Program for Mid-level Managers of the RMG Industries. BUTEX jointly with SEIP project has introduced a center called Executive Development Center (EDC) to produce mid-level managers for the sector.

Last fiscal year we expanded almost 30% of our payment of

Volume 11, Issue 12

Textile Today Question of the Month The minimum wage of RMG workers was BDT 5,300, extremely insufficient to fulfill the minimum standard of workers life. Trade union leaders and buyers were pushing RMG manufacturers to raise the workers minimum wage and following this Bangladesh government have raised the minimum wage to Tk 8,000, 51 percent higher than the previous minimum wage.

Year

Amount in TK

1994-2005

940

2006-2009

1662

2010-2012

3000

2013-2017

5300

2018

8000

Figure 1: Minimum wages in RMG sector from 1994 to 2018

However, already hundreds of factories have been closed for several reasons including increased production cost, compliance issues and low price of the product etc. In this reality, how the textile and apparel manufacturers are covering the added cost?

Md. Siddiqur Rahman President, BGMEA We see, already hundreds of the factories have been shut down due to wages and several other issues. Day by day production cost has increased but the price has decreased. Now we should focus on our worker's efficiency for increasing productivity. We are moving to a new market and our government is trying to support us. If buyers do not increase their product price, our small and medium category factories could not sustain for new minimum wages.

Saving resources to reduce production cost

Buyers should take part by few cents increase per product

Should focus on workers efficiency for increasing productivity

Should go value added products for better price from the buyers

Figure 2: The way outs for the RMG manufacturers to cope with the new wage hike.

David Hasanat Chairman, Viyellatex Group Our workers are the biggest asset to our textile and apparel industry. As an owner, we should provide better salary and facilities for RMG workers. Our customers always talk about ‘sustainability’ but sad but true that they would not pay for this. To manage this wage hike, we should establish a price-fixing policy and always negotiate with buyers for the right price. Besides, most of the world’s green factories are in our country, so we should also go for branding.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Textile Today Question of the Month

Monir Hossain Emon Managing Director, Divine Fashion (BD) Ltd As a medium category factory owner, we are facing a lot of challenges due to this wage hike, production cost has increases, Accord and Alliance issues etc. Owing to new wages structure, salary cost will be increased by half a crore per month in our factory. Regarding the issue of increasing workers’ wages, buyers should take part by a cent’s increase for the per product. At the same time, the government can negotiate and lobby with the EU, US, and any related trade bodies. We have many positive side .So we should brand and promote our industry in the globally.

Engr. Aslam Parvez Executive Director, Hazrat Amanat Shah Spinning Mills Ltd Yes, wage hike is a severe challenge for our textile and apparel industry right now. Product low price is one of the biggest reasons behind increasing our workers’ wages. In the competitive global market, primary textile factories are facing challenges due to the low price. At present, due to wage status, we are trying to improve our worker's efficiency and efficiently using our own resources.

Mohammad Faruque Hossain General Manager (IR & Compliance), Comfit Composite Knit Ltd Due to the new wage structure, more than two and half a crore BDT salary is increasing per month in our factory. Now we are facing a huge challenge and to overcome the challenge we are increasing our worker's efficiency for better productivity. Besides, we are trying to save resources to reduce production cost.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Market Analysis

Polyester filament sales valued at US$ 87 bn in 2018 Desk Report Polyester Filament Market Increment Opportunity Assessment, by Region

APEJ 1.5X

MEA

1.4X

Japan

1.4X

Latin America

North America

1.3X

Europe

High Market Valu (US$ Mn)

The polyester filament market is likely to witness a revenue generation surpassing US$ 87,000 million by 2018 end. A significant growth in the use of polyester in textile industry including apparel and home furnishing and growing demand for the polyester filament in the manufacturing of automotive textile are some of the prominent factors driving the polyester filament market revenues.

1.7X

1.6X

Fact.MR study opines that the fully drawn polyester filament sales are likely to outsell other types of polyester filaments. Continued preference for fully drawn yarn used in the production of textiles and fabrics for highend sportswear, undergarments, and home textiles are driving the significant growth of fully drawn yarn in polyester filament market.

Figure1: The polyester filament market is projected to reach 4.9% CAGR in terms of volume during the forecast period, 2018-2027.

The demand for both drawn texture yarn and fully drawn yarn is growing in the textile industry. However, with the development of post-treatment technology and lower cost of fully drawn yarn, it is likely to outsell drawn texture yarn over the next few years. India, China, Thailand, and Malaysia are the leading manufacturers and exporters of fully drawn yarn across various countries.

With textile, apparel, retail, and fashion industries moving towards sustainability, the area of interest in recycled polyester filament yarn in the production of new products is rising.

Textile industry accounts for over 60% of revenue share in polyester filament market The demand for polyester filament in the textile industry is expected to witness healthy growth. The textile industry is creating strong demand for polyester filaments which have the ability to substitute cotton yarns to some extent. The report opines that broader gains in a range of end-use industries will increase the proportion of polyester filament yarn used in the products with an aim to control cost.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Low

High

CARG (2018-2027)

Source: Fact.MR

APEJ to remain at the pole position in polyester filament market

In recent years, there has been a huge demand for the polyester filament in medical textile covering a wide range of products including surgical gowns, diapers, and products for internal uses like surgical procedures. The demand is likely to continue in the years to come.

According to the study, APEJ will be the most lucrative market for polyester filaments. The demand is expected to surpass US$ 14,000,000 tons by 2018end. China, India, Indonesia, and Thailand are the major countries in APEJ dealing in polyester filament market. Polyester and nylon fiber manufacturers in the Asia Pacific have also increased the prices with the rise in crude oil prices and growing demand for synthetic fibers.

Global Polyster Filament Market Taxonomy Type

Yarn type

Dyeing

No. of twists

Region

- Drawn Texture Yarn (DTY)

- Single Yarn

- Dyed

- Low Twist

- North America

- Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY)

- Ply Yarn

- Non- Dyed

- Litin America

- Partially Oriented Yarn (POY)

- Cord Yarn

- Medium Twist

- Europe

(230-900 twist per meter) - APEJ - High Twist

- MEA

(above 900 per meter)

End-use Industry Textile Industry - Wearing Apparels •Protective wear •Mining Wear •Sports Wear •Others apparels - Home Furnishing - Decorative Textile Manufacturing - Others

Automotive Industry - Devorative Automative - Manufacturing - Airbag Manufacturing - Mechanical Rubbers Goods - Tirecord

Automotive Industry Other end-use industry - Orthopedic Bandage - Non-biobegradable sutters - Uniforms - Protective Clothing - Others

Figure 2: Textile industry accounts for over 60% of revenue share in polyester filament market.

Volume 11, Issue 12

In Focus

Textile and apparel industry to lose competitiveness in global market if gas price rises Textile Today Research Industry people are still concern over the quality supply of energy and its future cost as they are in uncertainty about the cost of the natural resource after liquefied natural gas (LNG) has connected to the national grid. There is no clear indication from the government about the costing after LNG entered in the national grid and the RMG sector people are worried that the price might go up after the national polls. The government has moved to increase the existing gas price in June while it took a u-turn in October from its previous stance of raising the gas price. And the industry people believe the national election is the reason behind the u-turn.

The Bangladesh Energy Regulatory Commission (BERC) in one of its press conference at October announced its decision of not raising the price of gas in the present situation of the country especially just ahead of the general election to avoid any political repercussion.

According to officials currently 300 mmcfd gas is being supplied from LNG and it was supposed to go up to 500 mmcfd in a month or two and soon after 1,000 mmcfd gas would be flowed from next year as per a government plan.

While participating at a hearing, the gas entities argued that as per the government decision they had to submit their respective price hike proposals because of the high import cost of LNG as it will push up their cost substantially. The Petrobangla started supplying the imported LNG to the national gas network from August 18 through re-gasification by private sector-operated floating storage and re-gasification unit (FSRU).

The textile and clothing industry of the country has already been facing a number of challenges to remain competitive in the global market and is in the dark about future costing of gas with a number of existing problems including fluctuation in energy supply, high cost for other utility services, high bank interest rate, inefficient port facilities, long lead time, huge investment for workplace safety initiatives, recent wage hike for workers and an appreciating local currency value

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

In Focus

Existing challenges in Textile & Apparel industry Huge investment for workplace safety

Fluctuation in energy supply

High cost for all utility services

against the US dollar. Besides, the government is not giving any new gas connection to the factory that meets the requirement of energy through captive generation. The support once considered as the policy support given by the government

SPINNING YARN FROM COTTON

High bank interest rate

Inefficient port facilities

Long lead time

Rather, the government hinted several times for reducing the gas supply to captive generators last year and asked for enhancing their efficiency level to at least 60 percent through cogeneration process as cogeneration plants are more thermally efficient.

FABRIC

Recent wage hike for workers

Rising local currency value against US dollar

power (CHP) system, the flue gas – the energy byproduct of power generation termed waste heat – is recovered from the atmosphere, mostly in the form of steam, and used to produce more electricity. Currently, more than 80 percent

ACCESSORIES

FINISHED RMG PRODUCTS

Figure 1: All portions of textile value chain will be affected by the potential increase of gas price.

since mid of the ‘90s due to an unreliable gas supply to the industry. The state-owned energy provider Bangladesh Oil, Gas, and Mineral Corporation – commonly known as Petrobangla – stopped allowing new connections to captive power plants since August 2015.

A captive power plant is a localized power generation facility solely used by a commercial or industrial consumer. Cogeneration is the simultaneous production of electricity and heat. In a cogeneration system, also known as combined heat and

of the captive generators in the country are releasing their flue gas into the atmosphere. Some captive plants have already converted to CHP to tackle the severe shortage of gas, but 70 percent of the flue gas collectively released by the existing captive power plants is

Accessories, packaging and washing cost by more than 4.88% (during last two years) Wage cost by 51% Electricity by 15% C&F/Freight/ Transportation by 40%

Gas by more than 7.0%

Figure 2: Showing the cost rising scenario of the factors that ultimately raise the cost of production.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

In Focus

still being wasted. According to the power sector insiders, around 17 percent of the total gas consumed currently goes to the captive power plants and they can generate around 2,400MW of electricity. How affects In a recent CIP (commercially important person) Cards awarding ceremony the chief of the apex body of the chambersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;FBCCI also pressed the issue saying that the industry needs not only gas but with quality supply at a time when it is the era of digitalization, innovation and fourth industrial revolution. Fluctuation of gas supply means damages of automated and computerized machinery worth of thousands of millions of taka, damages of products and their quality that finally resulted in losses. It not only increases the cost of doing business but also creates obstacles in a whole supply chain from producing backward linkages ranging from yarn, fabrics, accessories and final shipment of finished products. On the other hand, prices of apparels are not increasing in line with the rising production cost. Industry people feared that if gas price increases after the election it would add further woes to the industry. It would raise the production cost in several phases from spinning yarn to manufacturing finished products. Transportation cost would also increase from the import of raw materials to the store and internal movement of backward linkages like yarn, fabric and accessories and final shipment to ports. What should be done? The industry also believes that, as LNG is being imported it would require some additional cost. Though the majority of the businesses are not in favor of a further hike in gas price, a good number favored a rational level of the hike so that the industry can survive. The existing per unit price of gas at captive generation unit is Tk 9.66 which they believe to make an increase, not more than by Tk 2.0 (there was a proposal to increase by Tk 14-15 per unit). They also seek the hiking phase by phase. The first hike might last long for at least for four to five years and there would be indication time of next possible hike. Any policy changes should be for long-term ranging from at least five to ten years so that entrepreneurs can plan their investment for setting new industries or for expansion.

Exclusive Interview

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

There is still huge scope in woven and denim sector Mohammad Ali Khokon, President, BTMA

BTMA is the national trade organization representing yarn, fabric manufacturers, and textile product processor mills of the country under private sector. It is working to promote and protect the trade, commerce, and manufacturers of Bangladesh. Including 425 yarn and 796 fabric-manufacturing mills, BTMA has a total of 1461 member mills. Recently Mohammad Ali Khokon has been elected as the President of BTMA uncontested for the next two-year term of 2019-2020 session. He has a versatile experience of more than three decades with the sector and within that period of time, he steered many organizations. He is a self-made charismatic entrepreneur who has been engaged with the textile and apparel trade since 1987. He has been the head of five different companies and currently occupies the position of Managing Director & Director at Metro Spinning Ltd., Managing Director at Maksons Group, Managing Director at Maksons Knit & Rotor Spinning Ltd. and Managing Director at Maksons Properties & Development Ltd. (both are subsidiaries of Maksons Group) and Managing Director & Director at Maksons Spinning Mills Ltd. Recently in a recent conversation with Textile Today, he opened up some paramount issues including cotton sourcing, the prospect of weaving and denim business, investments trend etc.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Exclusive Interview

Textile Today: You are the new President of BTMA, what are your plans to make BTMA’s roles more effective for the textile industry? Mohammad Ali Khokon: As the President of BTMA I have some plans regarding the textile industry. You know that the textile sector is contributing more than 12% in GDP and over 82% of the total export earnings come from the sector. BTMA is already assisting more in country’s total earning exports, the Primary Textile Sector (PTS) is contributing US$ 17bn in a total of US$ 29bn of textile and RMG sector. Around 90% yarn demand for knit RMG and 35-40% yarn demand for woven RMG are met by the PTS. Without this value addition, our apparel industry could not have come in this position. Still, we have a lot of work to do in woven and knit sectors. Export-oriented woven garments manufacturers have 12 billion meter fabric demand each year, of them, we import 6 billion meters from China, almost 3 billion meters from India and rest of the 3 billion meters are being produced by the PTS sector. So in woven, there is still a 60% gap where we need to work on it. In this regard, we have a plan to do specialized task to move forward the woven sector fulfilling the demand gap of woven fabrics. We will urge the government to announce the weaving sector as a separate sector and to provide special incentives for the sector. I am going to work with the weaving industry and denim as well. Denim has a great future in Bangladesh, we have more demand but we are supplying less right now. For the scarcity of own raw materials, technological inefficiency, and skilled manpower we are facing several challenges. I will strongly urge the Bangladesh government to take initiative in growing raw materials and efficient workforces. Above all, we need to set up a positive mindset to achieve US$ 50bn by 2021.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Everyone should come up with helping hand for the development of Bangladesh.

Cotton sourcing Lead time country for after opening Bangladesh the LC

Textile Today: Bangladesh is currently the second largest cotton importer in the world sourcing mostly from India. How do you see Bangladesh’s dependence on India for cotton sourcing? Should we go for diversification in cotton sourcing?

USA

3-4 months

Africa

6 weeks

Brazil

4 months

Mohammad Ali Khokon: Indian cotton quality is not good, it is not contamination free, short

Export-oriented woven garments manufacturers have 12 billion meter fabric demand each year, of them, we import 6 billion meters from China, almost 3 billion meters from India and rest of the 3 billion meters are being produced by the PTS sector. So in woven, there is still a 60% gap where we need to work on it. In this regard, we have a plan to do specialized task to move forward the woven sector fulfilling the demand gap of woven fabrics.

staple length and other quality parameters are not good. Then why are we importing cotton from India? It’s only because of short lead-time. On the other hand, if we want to import American cotton, it takes huge time to arrive in the factory, almost 3 to 4 months after opening LC. It takes 4 months if we import cotton from Brazil and it takes 6 weeks from Africa.

Volume 11, Issue 12

Thus, only for short lead-time, we are bound to order Indian contaminated cotton whereas American, Brazilian and African cotton is contamination free. I personally for my factory import only 20-25% cotton from India and we source rest of the cotton from other countries. On the other hand, freight charge in our port is higher than that of any of our rival countries. Ports should be used effectively so that we can get our main raw materials like cotton easily. Textile Today: We know African countries produce high-quality cotton, how can Bangladesh spinning mills source cotton more from Africa? Mohammad Ali Khokon: We already know that in Africa, there are three cotton zones: East Africa, West Africa, and Central Africa. These are well known for highquality and long staple length. The productivity of Africa’s cotton is 10-12% higher than that of India’s cotton. If we want to source cotton from Africa, we need to make an order at least 3 months prior as they have limited cotton. So, there is no issue to buy more cotton from them as we cannot buy more even if we want to. Textile Today: Could the investors of Bangladesh invest in Africa for cotton sourcing? How BTMA can a play role in this regard? Mohammad Ali Khokon: African countries can be a major source of cotton for raw materials in Bangladesh’s garment industry. The cotton that we import from India and China is not even original. It is very difficult to get original cotton from these countries. African countries can be a good alternative for cotton import. Bangladesh’s garment 35

Exclusive Interview

the expenditure in the industry and commercial sectors as the cost of electricity generation will be increased. I think imported LNG will be three times more expensive than our locally extracted natural gas.

Figure: Textile Today team is congratulating Mohammad Ali Khokon as the new president of BTMA.

industry mostly depends on imported cotton for raw materials. If Africa can produce more cotton, it will be really helpful for Bangladesh. Bangladeshi mills are sourcing cotton from countries like India, the United States, and Africa. Currently, Bangladesh sources around 20.88% of its total cotton demand from African countries. We are bargaining with our government, to give us policy support to import more cotton from Africa. Textile Today: Sometimes Chinese and Indian yarn and fabrics are imported under bond licenses and illegally sold in the domestic market at low prices. Is it generating challenges for local manufacturers? How do you see the matter and does the BTMA take any initiative to overcome this situation? Mohammad Ali Khokon: You are absolutely correct as we are already facing challenges regarding this. BTMA is going to take the initiative to overcome this situation. We will inform the matter to NBR then let us see what happens then. Last year we did not do any commercial import but the question is from where these fabrics have come to Bangladesh? If you go to the shopping malls, you will see a lot of Indian, Pakistani and Chinese fabrics.

Bangladesh will import LNG from Qatar, Oman, and Switzerland to add to the national gas grid. LNG import will immensely affect the gas price in the country.

Some corrupted businessmen are making this type of offenses, they are importing garments illegally as they do not want to see Bangladesh on top. We need to be honest in our business, otherwise, the development of Bangladesh will come to a standstill. Textile Today: The government has taken the initiative to import Liquefied Natural Gas (LNG), how will LNG be cost-effective than Natural Gas? Or what will actually happen when captive power plants of textile mills run with LNG? Will it increase the expenditure of textile millers? Mohammad Ali Khokon: Bangladesh will import LNG from Qatar, Oman, and Switzerland to add to the national gas grid. LNG import will immensely affect the gas price in the country. The move will increase

Textile Today: What will be the impact of the current agreement with India for using Mongla and Chattogram ports as transit points to access Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northeastern states for trade? Will textile millers face any difficulties for it?

Mohammad Ali Khokon: I do not see any impact here for using Mongla and Chattogram ports as transit points to access Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northeastern states for trade. Many countries are using others port for doing business. Bangladesh government is establishing another port at Payra for doing business smoothly. Therefore, there is no point in facing difficulties for textile owners as I think without proper arrangement and capacity improvement government is not allowing India to use these ports. Textile Today: What are the prospects of the current trends of investment in the textile sector? Do you think the investment trend is going in a proper way? What are your suggestions for investors? Mohammad Ali Khokon: I will say that the current trends of investment in the textile sector are going smoothly. And our government has made 100 economic zones for investors. If investors invest properly then our economy will boost. Also, for investment, political stability is very important and for the last 10 years, Bangladesh is in a stable political condition. After the election, if this government continues, nobody can stop the economic development.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

To p S t o r y

Trade war: Impact on the industry of Bangladesh AKM Asaduzzaman Patwary, Research Fellow, DCCI The world has witnessed various trade wars throughout history. The recent trade dispute of the USA and China engendered a new threat and destabilized the geo-economic balance of the world. A unilateral trade for China to become WTO member in early 2000 was over. Now, Chinese and the US-led war is apparently to attain the economic hegemony in the World. LDCs are already in unwritten battle on tariff and nontariff barriers for their sustainable existence. However, the war of China and USA is considered unsolicited and undeserving. However, on 1 December the U.S. and China have agreed to a 90-day trade ceasefire in a bid to work out their trade differences. At a post-G20 summit meeting in Buenos Aires, President Trump agreed not to boost tariffs on US$200bn of Chinese goods from 10% to 25% on 1 January 2019. There have been five major tariffs related trade wars occurred in the world in different centuries, which stirred the world trade. Remarkable wars were the Opium war between 1839 and 1842 between the UK and China, the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act in 1930 was to protect the falling stock market and domestic industry, US President Herbert Hoover signed the Smoot-Hawley Tariff Act led to 61% dip in US export by 1933 and led to great depression, the Chicken war in the early 1960s where France and Germany imposed high tariffs on American chickens and the USA retaliated with imposing higher tariffs on a bunch of commodities. The Pasta War- the Regan administration of USA raised tariffs on Pasta from Europe in 1985 as itsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; complains of discrimination against its Citrus 38

products fell and the Banana war was to restrict the import of Bananas to its colonies in Africa and the Caribbean. Europe imposed heavy tariffs on the import of Latin American bananas in 1993, which ended 20 years later. It is worth mentioning that the USA was involved in four of five historic trade wars. After the triumph of Donald Trump in the US election, the world economic state has come across various instabilities, challenges rather than unity. The so-called patriotic ideology of President Trump â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make America Firstâ&#x20AC;? and other unnecessary policies of the US government have politically and economically made the nation volatile. The longheld trade relationship of China and the USA became stagnant due to the unwise and adverse decision of putting an extreme duty on Chinese products and trigger many crises in the world trade. The size of global trade is around $23.01 trillion having $17.73 merchandise trade and rest is service with 4.7% growth in 2017, which may stumble and hurdle the global economic growth, hovering

around 3.6% to 3.8%. Initially, 25% border tax was imposed by the USA on $34 billion worth of Chinese goods imported into the USA though planned $200 billion tariffs. China responded to this policy with a 25% tariff on $34 billion worth US goods like soybeans, cotton linters, uncombed cotton, lobsters, and automobiles. The intent behind the 25% trade tax by the USA was to punish China for its controversial trade policies, by making their products expensive for American consumers, pushing them to find an alternative market. The war seems to continue and have long-lasting damaging effects and different assessment and forecast especially (IMF) indicated the cost of the trade war is about US$430 billion, which is 0.81% of world GDP. There are various vulnerabilities, which will affect many economies globally including Bangladesh. The trade imbalance of the USA with China was on the rise and this move is also expected to affect the middle-class American citizens, as China imports around

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

To p S t o r y

$200 billion of US goods whereas America’s dependence on Chinese goods is huge, and fulfilling the gap created by these tariff will not only increase the prices within the American market substantially is also going to be stern for American industry to match the demand. 41% of US apparel consumption, 72% of America’s footwear consumption and 84% of travel goods sold in the USA are sourced in China. The USA is the traditional export market for China’s textile and apparel production. Although China has substantial penetration in the EU, ASEAN and Japanese markets as well. China is the largest global exporter as many countries rely on China pushing its export to $4.5 trillion. Bangladesh is an import dependent and export-oriented economy and trade and GDP ratio is around 13.5% and many countries in ASEAN like Vietnam, Malaysia and Cambodia are heavily export-oriented economies. Our export has emerged underpinned by RMG export but far behind the ASEAN neighbors. Trade war impact on Bangladesh especially in our textile and RMG industry Textile sector is expected to expedite our export growth. Many Asian economies, which are potential sources of Textile products for the USA and other countries, can end up in trouble. Bangladesh has strong trading relation with USA and China and these relations are very instrumental. The USA is the single largest RMG export destination for Bangladesh. Bangladesh is a potential source of import and low cost production hub to supply many countries in the world and the trade battle is creating risk on the other hand generating some opportunities to attract new relocation business from Japan, South Korea, Malaysia, Singapore and Taiwan especially countries which maintaining smooth political and diplomatic relation with USA

Bangladesh Textile Today |

to sustain low cost export business in the USA.

face more new challenges and may have some new opportunities also.

The escalating labor cost in China and other South East Asian economies have tensed them to sustain their market share and recent tariff escalation will add fuel to the flame in the export market. Bangladesh can remain safe and secure in terms of grabbing the attention of global textile, leather goods, and other potential local consumables export market position. As tariffs on Chinese clothing would escalate price, America may lower existing tariffs on imports of clothing from Bangladesh and Vietnam. Bangladesh has meanwhile become renowned as the second

The overall scenario following the trade war is highlighted here:

Bangladesh has strong trading relation with USA and China and these relations are very instrumental. The USA is the single largest RMG export destination for Bangladesh.

largest global RMG exporting country in the world. In a bid to find some alternatives elsewhere, China decided to lower or cancel tariff on thousands of goods from Bangladesh, India and three other countries to sustain their global export market. The trade war needs to be ceased in order to ensure conducive global trade environment. However, as a whole, our export could gain comparative and competitive benefits due to this trade war. Due to the trade war, already Bangladesh is facing some new phases and if the USA reactivates the trade war after the three months truce, Bangladesh may

Volume 11, Issue 12

•T he Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) deal has been canceled which would have given Vietnam, Bangladesh’s major trade competitor, a considerable advantage in the American market. •B angladesh imports scraps, a raw material for steel, mainly from the United States but steel millers in the country are stockpiling the raw material anticipating more protectionist measures. •B angladesh could benefit taking advantage of the supply chain relocation in the long run if the trade war persists. •B angladesh needs to identify strategic advantage and challenge of the situation and address accordingly to reap economic benefits. •B angladesh will also receive a lot of investment as the Chinese sunset industries are looking for a new destination as production costs in China rose coupled with a higher tariff. • I t is imperative to protect the growth of local industries. Therefore, we need to exert caution when receiving FDI because in many areas like in the garment sector as the local entrepreneurs are performing well. •T o compete with the ASEAN and neighboring countries which are potential relocation hub, Bangladesh needs to take advantage and start building its logistics, distribution and strong regional connectivity other competitiveness factors as inadequate logistics facility and connectivity can hold back our growth. •S ince the USA is the single largest export destination for Bangladeshi goods, it can harvest better opportunity from the trade war. In doing so, Bangladesh has to increase the supply side capacity to meet

To p S t o r y

demand. Improving the doing business position and Investment climate of Bangladesh require to be improved. •B uilding collaboration among researchers, academia, industry is crucial for moving up the product value chain and product diversification in reaching our larger market. •A n overall “strategic plan” by the government and the private sector needs to be made. And, the SEZs need to be implemented in fast-track basis to address relocation investment in Bangladesh. •T he trade war between USA and China may not last long but Bangladesh has to develop integrated infrastructure including competitiveness in transport, port, and logistics facility in a way so that FDI trend can be routed to Bangladesh and be sustainable. • The focus should be made on improving productivity, efficiency in production and export diversification to sustain the competition. •B ecause of this trade war, the country’s backward linkage industry would flourish more to position Bangladesh as the rewarding investment hub in this region. •B angladesh also needs steps in order to improve in the ease of doing business index, such as allowing currency other than Dollar in opening Letter of Credit which can ease cross-border trade. •O ur capability is not enough to attract foreign investment in all sectors, as local industries are focused mainly on laborintensive industries. Bangladesh also needs to invest in robotics and artificial intelligence and modern technology to attract investments to gain a high-value product market. •B angladesh can conduct a study on trade war between the USA and China, outlining the emerging economic benefits in all export and potential export

sectors for readiness focusing on building supply-side capacity. •E U put a sanction on Cambodia’s entitlement of (EBA) which opened a window of opportunities for Bangladesh to penetrate more into the EU and this opportunity is to be harnessed. • Bangladesh needs careful monitoring of the high-priority sectors to what extent those are affected during this trade war regime and ensure safeguarding policies. •C urrency war and its possible impacts are already evident and mechanisms to offset the devaluation impact associated accordingly. We need to exercise caution when

•L ight engineering sector should be brought under compliance framework to attract the sunset industries in the long run. •S trengthening the PPP platform through essential reforms to attract Chinese investment under the PPP scheme. •E PB needs to map out the export dynamics needed within this trade war regime which will help secure readiness of Bangladesh in the long run. •T o compete with the regional countries, which are potential relocation hub, Bangladesh needs to start building its logistics and distribution strength for becoming a Centre for Supply Chain Hub – and therefore, logistics and warehousing should be looked into as a priority, declared as thrust sector for reducing leadtime for major industries, import, and export items.

Bangladesh needs careful monitoring of the high-priority sectors to what extent those are affected during this trade war regime and ensure safeguarding policies.

receiving FDI protecting the local industrial interests.

•T ransform focus to other sectors and orient them in the global supply chain and endeavors to bring necessary certification and compliance standards to ease other growth drivers.

•B angladesh has to create a smooth transition process, establish an enabling situation focusing on ease of doing business for the factories to be relocated, and should have a planned branding and promotional mechanisms. •T he balance of trade may shift upward in the coming years if export soars. •T he readiness of Bangladesh to reap the opportunities provided by this on-going trade war requires a supply of capable human resources along with an orientation of modern technology. •T he government must put strategic stances during the

negotiation of the relocation of Chinese sunset industries because there will be chances that China cuts the price and cost of manufacturing while doing business in Bangladesh. If this happens, there will be a negative impact on the growth of our local industries.

To implement and gain utmost benefits of a trade war in our industry and economy, we must mobilize our trade and investment diplomacy with China and other industrially rich countries affected by trade war and attract relocation of Chinese sunset industries in Bangladesh. To gain optimum outcome, we also need to stress on infrastructure development, skills development, and technologybased industrial capacity above all economic competitiveness in doing business state to harness real economic leverages.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

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1 Certificate Achievers of Recently Completed Training Programs of Textile Today Training

2 3 4 1

Certificate achievers of “Lean Manufacturing” under FSD Training Program of Textile Today Training. Factory Trainer Md. Arafat Rahman, Deputy Manager, Central IE of Northern Tosrifa Group handed over the certificates to the Trainees.

Certificate achievers of “Sustainability Management System (Higg FEM)” under SMS Training Program jointly organized by Textile Today Training & Engineering Resources International (ERI). Trainer Mohammad Sahadat Hussain, Senior Consultant-Sustainable Development of ERI handed over the certificates to the trainees.

Transforming Human Capital

Certificate achievers of “Safety Management” under SMS Training Program jointly organized by Textile Today Training & Engineering Resources International (ERI). Trainer Md. Abdullah Al Zaman, Professional Safety Trainer ToT (Alliance worker Safety) handed over the certificates to the trainees.

Certificate achievers of “Sustainable Use of Resources” under SMS Training Program jointly organized by Textile Today Training & Engineering Resources International (ERI). Trainer Engr. Md. Jainal Abedin, Certified Energy Auditor (USAID) and Product Manager – PEG & Mohammad Sahadat Hussain, Senior Consultant -Sustainable Development of ERI handed over the certificates to the trainees.

NORTHERN TOSRIFA GROUP

December 2018 w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 12 l Pages 43 to 113

Strategies to secure competitiveness in spinning in Bangladesh

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Profitability crisis of knit sector: key factors & possible way outs (part-1)

CSR as a tool to increase "Employer Branding" 55

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Textile Today has already done several case studies on CSR activities of different apparel manufacturing units of Bangladesh. MBM Group spends more than 2% of its profit for CSR activity. Comfit Composite Knit Ltd, Envoy Textiles Limited,

To mitigate these adverse impacts several initiatives have been taken by the industry people and Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is one of them which is being promoted in different ways throughout the textile and apparel industry. CSR is how companies manage their business process an overall positive impact on society that covers sustainability, social impact and ethics. The social responsibility of the corporate bodies especially the RMG sector has been focused by all stakeholders including buyers and the civil society members because of global competitiveness and demand. Thus, CSR has become an unavoidable part of textile and apparel industry.

We are living in a world where everyone is doing everything mostly for benefits. The capitalistic world is always encouraging us to do everything for maximizing our profit. But what is actually happening when all of us running after profit? If we observe our area only, the textile and apparel industry, the thinking of profit maximization creates an imbalanced situation in the industry both internally and externally. The planet ‘Earth’ and citizens of the ‘Earth’ are facing different adverse circumstances, which could be defined as ‘unsustainability’ as several negative impacts on social, economic and environment are increasing drastically day by day.

Akhi Akter

CSR is how companies manage their business process an overall positive impact on society that covers sustainability, social impact and ethics. The social responsibility of the corporate bodies especially the RMG sector has been focused by all stakeholders including buyers and the civil society members because of global competitiveness and demand. Thus, CSR has become an unavoidable part of textile and apparel industry. Northern Tosrifa Group, Epyllion Group, Jamuna Apparels Ltd etc are also practicing CSR activities those are really praiseworthy. They are providing free lunch, fair price shop, childcare facilities, healthcare facility, health insurance project, financial support, educational support, provident fund, in-house and outdoor training, recognition and entertainment to the apparel workers.

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We have seen that the awareness about CSR is rapidly increasing among Bangladeshi textile and apparel manufacturers because of intense pressure from buyers and realizing that CSR enhances the reputation of their company that brings new business. However, a textile industry in developing country like Bangladesh should start their CSR activities for the welfare of their employees. Other reason behind that factor is that many garments companies in Bangladesh still are not conscious about the workers as a consequence they give little weight to this factor. Textile and apparel industry can contribute to the CSR activities through the motivation of their employees because of employees certainly are key stakeholders. Several studies of Textile Today have found that CSR is working as employer branding. Employees feel comfort to work those factories which are practicing CSR. Finally, CSR activities can be promoted through the employee’s involvement thus employees may feel that they are a vital part of the company and this concept helps to become a satisfy employee and thus it contribute on productivity, quality improvement as well as profit. 45

An initiative of Textile Today

Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...

The Team Tareq Amin Founder & CEO Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development

Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator SN Abdullah Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Research & Development

‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and explore positives and significant stories from sites of the industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video contents will be developed to highlight & promote best practices; product and process development stories; social and environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturing companies.

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Engagement & Communication

Major Factory Tales Services are Brand Strategy Making (Identity & Positioning)

Nizam Uddin Shipan Head of Design and Branding

Best Practice Story Building (Marketing/Branding Story)

Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing

Yeasin Mia Graphic Design

Ashraful Alam Cinematographer

Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer

Brand Manual Making

(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand Materials and Websites)

Photography & Videography

(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)

Brand Communication- PR Services

Amenities of Factory Tales

Identical position in the industry

Buyer and consumer loyalty

Vantage in price negotiation

Employer Branding

New business possibility

Robust & sustainable business

Award on best practice

Riasad Rion Sr. Executive, Web & IT Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com

25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh Tel: +88 02 55093682, Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748 Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Strategies to secure competitiveness in spinning in Bangladesh Bangladesh has to take some key decisions to remain competitive in the spinning sector Abdul Wadud, Management Consultant, TRANSFORM The world economy is gradually taking a new shape due to the advent of information technology that helped the emergence of e-commerce, new opportunities, financial tools and systems, and a new economic world order. At the same time in 2018 trade war between USA and China, Brexit, North Korea, and the Middle East crisis have resulted in a slower world economic outlook. Currency devaluation has affected the competitive strength among the countries as well as in Bangladesh, especially the spinning sector. In the domestic scenario, the minimum wage has been adjusted higher to be effective from December 2018. LNG is coming into the supply chain to assure power for the different industries and domestic use that is likely to

escalate the power cost further. In Bangladesh, the spinning sector started on a high note in 2018 as the market price of yarn was matching the cost of cotton that are all imported. Subsequently, the market price of yarn went down as the cotton price went down. But due to booking at a higher price in comparison with our competing yarn exporting countries who have their own cotton plus relatively higher devaluation of currencies of those competing yarn exporting countries, local spinning mills were forced to sell at marginal or lower cost. After closely watching the market and cotton price, I see it is unfolding into a new dimension, which I believe would result in a scarcity of quality cotton and abundance of inferior quality cotton. Let us wait and see what

actually happens in the next quarters of 2019. So, the spinning business at this moment is facing a higher cost and marginal price pressure. The question is what can be done to iron out the edges? In this article, we would like to highlight some issues that can secure the competitiveness of spinning business in Bangladesh in the future that is positively contributing to the overall economic development through ensuring shorter lead lime with the right product to the exportoriented ready-made garments industry. It is of our countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interest that the huge investment made in the backward linkage industries by our entrepreneurs to remains viable in the long run in order to support and sustain

Figure: 2019 scenario will likely lead to scarcity in quality cotton and available inferior cotton for the spinning sector.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

the growth in export-oriented RMG which is likely to remain the major export earning sector in the decades to come. 1. Market data: For any future investment, investors need authentic data based on which they can plan their investment. Right data would not only ensure the investment in the right area and assure profitable return but it’ll also save from excessive investment, which may lead to unhealthy competition. BTMA (Bangladesh Textile Mills Association) can assist investors with data against a nominal fee. 2. Protection against dumping price of imported yarn: It is a worldwide common practice to assist local industry from undue/ unfair competition from imported products. Since “Shorter Lead Time” is a paramount element in the rapidly changing fashion industry, it is important to support the local spinning mills from unfair competition, from time to time, if necessary. With this regard, BTMA can have a monitoring cell to monitor the major issues and negotiate with relevant government agencies. 3. Strategic plan for each and individual mill: Spinning business in Bangladesh has reached a matured stage with an installed capacity of 12.50 million spindles and 0.26 million rotors, where to remain competitive individually each mill should have their own strategic plan and a clear action plan to attain those objectives. Each mill is unique. One mill can differ in a wider range from the other as the mission or vision, core values, objectives, recourses and technology, target market, product range, manpower and expertize, size, capital, and organizational structure, etc. are different. To make a proper strategic plan, it is necessary to have a good understanding and practical experience of the market, technology, raw material, process, quality, factory operation, people management, cost of fund and product cost and most importantly driving all those towards the

common goal without breaking the harmony. Setting the right strategy and driving the team towards achieving it is the key issue that can only be done by a competent experienced person who should be at the top level in the organization. Organizations can also outsource such services from expert consultants.

higher productivity. Increasing productivity is a gradual process and it requires proper leadership, process, material, motivation, training, and manpower. I can share my experience in one of the mills where I started with GPSS of 160 and in four years could take it to 185-188.

4. Managing cotton: Cotton consist of roughly 60-70% cost of a spinning mill. So, it is needless to say that cotton management is the key to sustainability of any spinning mill. Selection of right cotton, setting a Standard Operating Procedure, price fixation, and risk management are the key elements of cotton management. Mills should have an efficient cotton management team to deal it professionally and they can also deploy cotton consultants to train the team and advice in price fixation and risk management. 5. Marketing and quality assurance: Understanding the customers’ need and transforming it into the right quality is as important as marketing yarn to the right customer with the right price. It is important to have the right people and system in place to ensure timely delivery, quality, after sales service and payment realization. An expert can assess the gap and suggest to bridge the gap for improvement. 6. Process and productivity: It is important to have the right process in order to produce the right product at the optimum rate. Bangladeshi spinning mills are lagging behind in terms of productivity with the competing countries spinning mills where we have the scope for improvement. For instance, the mill, which became first in 10th SITRA (The South India Textile Research Association) Study in 1998 had a Ne 30 converted GPSS (Grams per spindle per shift) of 210 while the average GPSS of 60% of Bangladeshi spinning mills are around 170-180. It is interesting to notice that in many of those mills foreign experts are working but these foreign experts so far are not able to attain

7. Optimum financing and investment plan: Every investment must be undertaken only against the analysis of cost and benefits with a positive NPV (Net Present Value) and followed by the analysis of the actual outcome to make necessary corrections. Even a project with positive NPV can become sick if the capital structure and the weighted average cost of fund becomes high resulting from higher financial leverage. Balanced investment, fund management, and financing decisions are important decisions that contribute to cost and benefit and these are needed to be optimized. In my opinion, Finance graduates should be given their working space in the organization to contribute. Companies can assign separate job for students of Finance, Accounting, and Costing. 8. Training and manpower development and retention: In order to achieve continuous and sustainable improvement, training plays an important role. Return on training gives the fastest return among any other investment by an organization. In spinning mills in Bangladesh, at worker level monthly turnover varies from 5-12% whereas in the case of staff and executives it is less than 1%. However, ensuring a good working condition and job growth reduces the turnover where training plays a positive role. Separate training should be designed for workers and management throughout the year to get the best output and reduce defects/cost. Companies should invest 0.50-1.00% of the turnover for training and development in order to build a trained, motivated and efficient local manpower, which is the key to sustainable development of the sector.

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Profitability crisis of knit sector: key factors & possible way outs (part-1) Engr. Kawsar Alam Sikder COO – Textile Division, Asrotex Group. If we compare the present business situation of knit sector with one decade earlier, FOB price significantly reduced, on the other hand, direct labor cost increased 4.8 times more, utility cost and crisis increased, the huge investment required to ensure occupational health & safety, have to face huge competition i.e. business environment become volatile, uncertain, complex and ambiguous day by day. Factories are falling in profitability crisis for different reasons, here I want to narrate a few management failure cases which impact greatly on profitability. Sometimes, factories fall in the sinking point from where turning back to the race become more and tougher. If leaders / CEO‘s decision was not appropriate, the amount of loses becomes huge. Surely it will impact profitability, in the long run, organizations have to pass a tough time to survive in the competition. I want to share a few case studies which will be an eye opener for others. Expansion: Many factories did not study the feasibility and consider Return on Investment before invest further to increase production capacity. One of a renowned factory KFMA (not really name), invest in a fabric manufacturing plant to make the capacity double by sanctioning loan from the bank. CEO does not take any advice from any technical expertise. He does not believe and rely on technical persons/subordinates.

Figure: To ensure finest productivity proper business environment is must.

He loves to take a vital decision by himself. His dream was, by selling fabric to other RMG units, he will be able to pay the installments of bank loan. After completing the multistoried building and installed all the machinery, he found two drawbacksA ll the machinery cannot run with existing approved gas connection. The government does not approve any connection for the industry at that moment. Gas consumption of boiler crossed the approved limit when all the dyeing machine runs. There is a chance of disconnection from Titas if repeatedly exceed the approved limit for consecutive months. So, the CEO decided to run 50% dyeing machines. Captive

electricity is not sufficient to run finishing range as well as, 50% finishing line remains idle. Stenter runs by CNG gas even though it was not economical.  Managing the payment of monthly bank installment became tougher than ever. Dream broken just after installing all the machines. So the consequence of the above bad investment, disbursement of wages and salary of the workforce can’t maintain on time, due by several months. Huge credit on the supplier’s receivable, facing liquidity problems. Can’t open L/C for yarn, dyes, chemical etc. and on time shipment became a dream. The organization is passing a tough time.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

day. For our clear understanding, declined trend of FOB of legging orders of one of the top retailer in the county,

10 % price reduce within 4 years in some case figures is higher . 4.9 4.8

4.9 4.8

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Minimum wages of direct labor increase 51 % from 2013.

4.6 4.5

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Thousands of factories can produce basic 4.2 products. All 4.1 the buyers 2015 2016 2017 2018 have alternative Legging suppliers, due to unhealthy Figure 2: Price reduction trend of RMG products. competition, the price of basic Many factories have also fallen in products are going down trouble with this type of immature drastically. On the other hand, investment. So, before any wages already increased 51%, investment, we have to calculate which will be a big threat for textile the ROI. industries. The organization should Project implementation: I know few invest to increase the capability of factories, project implementation doing value-added products. time takes more than 3-4 We should consider our workforce estimated times. By this way, as a resource. We can covert the project cost has become our workforce into a strength by much higher. Most of the cases giving proper training. Most of the entrepreneur himself follow up the industries are focusing to train project implementation activities. their people. By this way, we will And implemented events not in be able to produce value-added the sequence, a few examples higher price product which leads are like machinery arrives in to higher profit. factory before completion of 4.3

new building, factory is ready for production but can’t obtain environmental clearance, factory is ready but gas connection was not obtained, lift or chiller arrived in the factory before the completion of the building etc. by this type of disorganization, the cost of manufacturing become high which leads to low profit.

Own style management: many entrepreneurs does not have enough knowledge on modern management. Successors are in the board immediately after

In case of new project implementation, Project evaluation and review technique (PERT) should follow by assigned technical persons. Who can help to implement the project on time, reduce the cost of the project & ROI will be less.

6000

Product diversification: FOB price of all brands going down day by

completing the education. Entrepreneurs are thinking, their present successes indicate their previous strategy was right, they are more knowledgeable than professional employees. A renown textile industry KFMB, introduce the below strategy to increase accountability to their management staffs and workers. Everybody should submit their targets or to do lists to the concerned team in the morning. Before leaving the workstation in the evening, everybody again submits the job completion list to the concerned team. Salary & wages will be equivalent % of achieved average productivity. Every employee spends a noticeable amount of time and papers to comply above rules. 100% Verification of the performance cannot possible. Staff’s become demotivated after getting a repeated thread of salary deduction. Skill & talented staff’s leave the organization. After a few months, scrap the above strategy and try to adopt another new formula. Due to this type of experiment of management concept, productivity and profitability become low day by day. Many industries also practice their own management style, sometimes it gives positive results & sometimes gives negative results. We should follow the proven management philosophy like Lean/TQM/Six Sigma.

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Figure 3: Minimum wage increase trend over the years.

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Successors of entrepreneurs i.e. son/daughter should not be a board member after graduation. They should serve in the organization as a management trainee for a certain period so that he will become a mature leader. Unstable management team human beings are unique in all aspect, every top executive also have a unique concept and management techniques, many entrepreneurs want quick results

even within 3-4 months from top executives. If results are not as per their desire, they change the executives. Found no consistent in any good practice causes a very frequent change in top position. Sometimes vital positions also changed when top executives leave the organization. Organizational reputation also fades. Recruitment of reputed performer become tougher than before.

Failure of individuals, not for his capability, most of the causes due to systems/environments. All the transport drivers of Bangladesh will run the vehicle by maintaining 100% traffic rules in the cantonment area. Though same drivers are careless in other areas. So system and accountability is more important to ensure appropriate productivity as well as profitability.

82 apparel makers get CIP cards Staff Correspondent In recognition for contributing to the economy and national exports in 2016, Bangladesh government has awarded Commercially Important Person (CIP) cards to 82 apparel and textile manufacturers. On December 18, 2018, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed handed over the CIP cards to the representatives of their respective companies at a function in the capital. Every year Bangladesh government honors business people for their outstanding contribution to the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economy and national exports. Commerce Ministry and Export Promotion Bureau jointly organized the event. Of them, 41 apparel products makers received CIP cards in knitwear category, while 17 RMG manufacturers got in the woven category. A total of three company received CIP cards in Home Textile category followed by six in textile (fabric) category. In addition, a total of 15 companies were awarded CIP cards in the miscellaneous category. Addressing the program as chief guest, Tofail Ahmed said the government has provided allout cooperation to the business community in doing business and exports. For the current fiscal year, we are

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: FBCCI President, Mr. Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin is receiving CIP award for FY 2016.

offering 4% cash incentives against the exports to a new market for apparel exporters, which pushed the export earnings up, said Ahmed.

the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) in the trade category.

He urged the manufacturers to explore new markets and move for products diversification to enlarge export earnings to reach %50 billion by 2021.

What CIP cardholder enjoy

Meanwhile, the government has awarded Commercially Important Person (CIP) cards to a total of 178 business people for their outstanding contribution to the national economy in the year 2016 in different sectors. Of them, 137 business people will receive the cards in the export category, while 41 cards will be given to the directors of

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The CIP cardholders are entitled to get VIP lounge-2 facility at the airports in the country, receive visa assistance from the embassies concerned and their family members will be provided priority in booking cabins at public hospitals. They will also get permission to enter Bangladesh Secretariat, participate in different national programs and get priority in booking tickets for air, railway and waterway travels for business purposes.

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

CSR initiatives of Comfit Composite Knit Ltd ‘Sustainability is in the DNA of our business model’ with this motto, Comfit Composite Knit Ltd. is going ahead to achieve its desired target. They are careful in ethical, social, environmental, cultural and economic aspects at large while conducting profit-making business operations. FT Research Team

Figure 1: Comfit Composite Knit Ltd., a sister concern of Youth Group.

Comfit Composite Knit Ltd, a sister concern of Youth Group is one of the pioneer textile & apparel company in Bangladesh, started their fruitful journey since 2005. It is producing all types of highquality knit items with modern state-of-the-art equipment. Currently, they are working with H&M (45%), C&A (40%), Zara, Angel Bird, Sports Master, Kik etc. buyers. They have a daily dyeing capacity of 35 tons and garments capacity is approximately 1 lakh 20 thousand pcs/day. Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) is a simple way for companies to take responsibility for the social and environmental well-being through their business operations which is why Comfit Composite is unique. “The whole Textile & Apparel industry in Bangladesh is CSR focused, but still falls short of a

mandate. If a company emphasizes on this issue strongly, it will get great feedback in their annual business profit undoubtedly," said, Engr.Md. Kawsar Ali, Chief Operating Officer, Comfit Composite Knit Ltd. Health awareness Comfit Composite is increasing consciousness about Sexual Health & Reproductive Rights (SHRR) in CSR. Full sanitation system, reproductive items such as contraception, birth control pill are being provided as a free basis to the female workers. Sanitary items are given in 60-70% waiver. Workers’ blood grouping is totally free and the company feel it is a duty of them. “We always care about medical issues. That is why our factory has a medical center with 10 beds capacity and full-time ambulance service. We are ventured jointly

with Kumudini Medical College and Hospital of Tangail,” said Mohammad Faruque Hossain, General Manager (IR & Compliance), Comfit Composite Knit Ltd. Besides, the company also provides 50% subsidies to the workers family. The Company has done an agreement with Sheikh Fazilatunnesa Mujib Memorial KPJ Specialized Hospital & Nursing College so that company’s workers and staff can take proper health services using their Out Patient Department (OPD) in many cases as a priority corporate client. Health insurance project As a part of the company’s CSR, management tries to facilitate to the staffs corporately. Comfit recently has started health insurance service. Under this project, workers, executives, managers, including various classes will be able to get services

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Volume 11, Issue 12

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

fund in the company’s policy where dividends are given to the workers and the staff equally. The company gives service benefits to their staffs so that they can lead a better life. If a worker works in the company for more than one year and then leave, management officially tries to benefit financially to them. In-house and outdoor training

Figure 2: Workers of Comfit Composite Knit Ltd. enjoying their annual picnic.

from any outside hospitals, clinics with scheduled limited money. Financial support Comfit Composite also provides financial aid under the benevolent fund. They have an own benevolent fund, where any imperiled worker or their families, child or parents can get help. Minimum 5000 Tk to maximum up to Tk 1 lakh financial aid is given by Comfit Composite for their health and education. Skill development center and social responsibilities Comfit Composite has its own training center recognized by the Bangladesh Technical Education Board, World Bank, ILO, and BGMEA & BKMEA. From this training center, the company tries to train up the workers who have completed SSC examination and tries to develop them for operator position within 30 days to 45 days and during this time company gives them a full salary. This is one of the very special active training centers among others in Bangladesh. Comfit Composite is jointly linked with the Tangail Skill Training Center through USEF, from which they try to do outsource skilled manpower resources. In case of floods or other disasters in the country, the factory extends their hands to help the victim society and community in different places.

through various events along with entertainment. If a worker keeps in a calendar year ‘no late, no absent’, he/she is especially rewarded with certificate, crest and by seeing this kind of recognition others feel a lot of encouragement and increase the intensity of works more times. Besides, senior officials are also acknowledged by the certificates, crests and valuable gifts who have been working for a long time in the company. Educational support The school is in Sandwip to spread the light of education between boys and girls. The school offers a stipend for education and special care for disabled students. There is also a vast computer lab and science laboratories to boost student’s technological skill. Besides, Comfit also has the alliance with the Eastern University and Australian International University. They have many young workers who do not have money to study but have great interest of studying. Provident fund

Workers are trained up in in-house and outdoor across the whole year. For example, especially for women empowerment, a project is running with SNV, Netherlands to assign supervisor from operator post. Comfit will produce 5% female supervisor of the total workers, so far they are moving towards that target. In the last one year, Comfit management can be able to make supervisor about 40% of the operator. To increase own career counseling, skill development, and managerial capacity, there are outdoor and abroad training system for managers and executives from company owner. Nutritious food, canteen, and cleanliness facilities Workers always get low price facilities from the factory’s canteen. Canteen management seems to take care regarding the health of its customers. The kitchen and floor always remain clean, even the furniture too. The food offered is hygienic; it is less oily and properly cooked. The food is served in time. The cook and waiters are well dressed, well behaved and they are careful of their personal hygiene.

There is a contributory provident

Employee branding Comfit Composite arranges annual program yearly on the occasion of its establishment where workers and officials get better recognition

Figure 3: Childrens are playing in daycare center at Comfit Composite Knit Ltd.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

S e c t o r A n a l y s i s - H o m e Te x t i l e

Turnaround of terry towel sector returns manufacturers motivation Home textile export earnings, excluding terry towel, was US$340.7 million in the July-November period of the fiscal year 2018-19 where earnings from terry towel was US$26 million. FT Research Team Export of terry towel has seen a sharp rise by 49.60% to US$26 million in the July-November period of the fiscal year 2018-19, which was US$17.38 million in the same period last year, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data released on 5 December. It has surpassed the export target set for the period. The earnings from the sector were 54.76% higher than the target of US$16.80 million set for the period. This data has come to notice while terry towel millers were disappointed for shuttering down at least 10 small and medium factories in the past two years while another three to five are struggling to survive. M Shahadat Hossain, Chairman, Bangladesh Terry Towel & Linen Manufacturers & Exporters Association said that at least 70,000 workers lost their jobs due to the closure of those factories. “The sector was just starting to grow, bolstered with some Tk 2,000 crore in investments,” he said. Mark Terry, which was established in Ashulia in 2000 and a production unit of Alltex Group were closed last year failing to cope with international competition.

Country wise home textile export (in %) to EU market

China

7 33

Turkey India

16 25

Bangladesh Others

However, EPB data is showing the remarkable turnaround of the terry towel sector, which includes as a special textile in EPB data, also it is known as a home textile. According to EPB data, home textile export earnings, excluding terry towel, is high to US$340.7 million, which was US$331 million in the same period last year but the sector could not catch the export target set for the period. The earnings from the sector were decreased by 7.22% than the target of US$672 million set for the period. In fiscal 2017-18, export of Bangladesh’s home textiles, including terry towels, bed sheets,

Figure: Export of terry towel has seen a sharp rise by 49.60% to US$26 million in the July-November period of the fiscal year 2018-19.

Pakistan

linen, curtains, and pillow covers, grew 9.95 percent yearon-year to reach $878.68 million. However, terry towel export declined 4.40 percent yearon-year to $42.35 million last fiscal year, according to data from the Export Promotion Bureau.

The sector’s (including terry towel) growth started to witness a decline from January 2014, when the European Union (EU) allowed the zero-duty benefit to Pakistan under its GSP Plus scheme, on the export of home textiles and some other products. The EU imported over $6.86 billion-worth home textiles in 2016, according to data from Euratex, the European apparel and textile confederation. With a trade advantage of nearly 15 percent, including 6 percent cash incentive, the home textile sector in Bangladesh, especially terry towels, is performing well. Bangladesh is regularly exporting different types of home textile and specialized textile products including terry towel bed sheet, bedspreads, pillow, pillow covers, cotton table napkins, furnishing fabrics, curtains, window and door curtains, cushion, cushion covers, carpets, table covers, kitchen accessories, mattress covers, bath linen, and other home furnishings etc. Experts believe that Bangladesh’s position in this sector will reach in the top soon.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

The Fastest Free Flight Rapier Machine Exclusively Made in Italy

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Production Quality

Efficiency

Performance Sustainability

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Volume 11, Issue 12

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f ro m f i e l d to fa s h i o n

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December 2018 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 12 l Pages 61 to 78

All are looking forward to ITMA 2019 to see the next level of sustainable technologies See advertisement at page 65

U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s

DTG 2019 to showcase varieties of sustainable technologies

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Editorial

All are looking forward to ITMA 2019 to see the next level of sustainable technologies Textile Today Analysis The textile industry is an immensely global value chain that has a great impact on every country in the world either directly or indirectly. For example, solid waste problem generated mainly in the west from the ‘Fast Fashion’ trend has created a demand of establishing ‘Circular Fashion’ and the whole textile world is likely to feel the corresponding changes. The advent of ‘Industry 4.0’ and its impact also will not only be confined in its developers mainly the European country. So whether it is a problem or an innovation, everything has to be shared globally in the age of globalization. So, the global platforms are very important which are setting the trends and changing businesses of the future. In addition, whether it is sustainability or anything else, all the stakeholders in the textile industry are looking forward to ITMA 2019 to be held in Barcelona, Spain. ITMA has been called, as the Olympic of textile machinery is the world’s most important textile and garment machinery exhibition since 1951. It has been a catalyst for changing and competitiveness for the industry over the years. This time the exhibition will be held from 20 to 26 June 2019 at Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via venue where over 1,600 exhibitors will exhibit their latest technologies and sustainable solutions. Why sustainability is the center focus In recent time, sustainability issues are getting priority in all aspects of the textile and apparel industry.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 1: ITMA 2019 to showcase latest innovations in textile machinery.

The drive towards sustainability in the entire textile and garment value chain is increasingly integrated with enlightened business practices, and innovative technology holds the key to environmental sustainability. Sustainability to-do is not only about reducing economic, environmental and social risks it also means to integrate things in a single objective for living a better life. Thanks to the latest developments in science and engineering and more in data processing, communication and digital integration of concepts and processes which are giving industries a complete change. In addition, the next generation textile industry is going to be completely different because of below-mentioned technologies. Everything, which not even we can imagine, is to be showcased in ITMA 2019. ITMA to set new trends Industry 4.0 Innovation is vital for the textile and apparel industry’s success as Industry 4.0 gains momentum in the manufacturing world. The use

Volume 11, Issue 12

of artificial intelligence, processing of big data and connecting the dots together in quick and fast decision-making would be the key changes in the industry. Companies will shift towards open innovation and so will result in the increased exchange of knowledge and new types of cooperation among educational institutions, research organizations, and business. And so technology providers are ready to showcase their latest developments in integrating the concept of Industry 4.0 and presenting the outlook of nextgeneration machinery. All are likely to break the earth in ITMA 2019. Maria Ludovica Murazzani, Commercial Consul of Italy in Shanghai recently has told that the Italian government has set up a clear vision for Industry 4.0 and Italian companies are making significant progress in this by the legal and others support from the Italian government. Alessandro Zucchi President, ACIMIT further confirmed it and declared that many of those amazing developments will be showcased for the first time in upcoming

Editorial

ITMA 2019 to be held in Barcelona. Companies from Germany, Switzerland, and the UK will not fall short as well. Digitalization & automation Every company’s solution need to complete in a digital way, which aims to maximize profits while achieving zero inventory loss, zero leftover stock, and zero, lost sales opportunity and most importantly zero waste through smart, speedy and sustainable production. Without automation and integral decision making it won’t be possible. Machinery companies are continuously working on bringing new featured machinery making things digitalized connected through smart devices. They will be showcasing the latest technology for better productivity to cope up with fast fashion trends as automation can offer cost reduction and value-addition in garments products. Automation, especially in an integrated textile and garment manufacturing chain, will help address the fashion and clothing industry’s current concerns of short production cycles and sustainable business practices, according to CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers. What is new in ITMA 2019? ITMA innovation lab is the main attraction of the people aims at driving industry focus on technological research and development. Innovation Lab will provide an opportunity to connect and exchange ideas with a truly international gathering of expert researchers and academics who are involved in a vast range of textile-related projects. Christine Karin Schmidt, Chair of the CEMATEX working group of the ITMA Innovation Lab, and Technical Director of VDMA Textile Machinery Association explained, “There is much more to be discovered at the ITMA Innovation Lab. The Innovation

Figure 2: At ITMA 2015, a remarkable number of global visitors turned up for textile solutions.

Video Showcase will spotlight the most groundbreaking exhibits at ITMA 2019. “By presenting these latest innovations in a video format at the Speakers Platform, CEMATEX aims to further promote excellence in R&D and make the Innovation Lab a hotspot that will inspire visitors from all sectors of the textile and apparel making industry.” Automation and Industry 4.0 are one of the key focus areas in Europe, and Germany’s Institutes of Textile and Fibre Research Denkendorf (DITF), for example, has recently been involved in the multi-company co-ordination of digital textile micro-factories. These have involved fully automated and interlinked textile production lines for ‘make on demand’ products – from design through to the finished and printed garment. Many major textile institutions from across Europe, organizations will also be present at the show from North and South America, Asia and Australia. Adding to the vibrancy of the area will be a number of first-time participants, such as Fundació Eurecat, Leitat Technological Centre, Manchester Metropolitan University, Mittelstand 4.0-Kompetenzzentrum Textil Vernetzt, Thomas Jefferson University, and Universidad De Buenos Aires’ Fadu, Cátedra Nirino Diseño Textil.

Within Europe, some key research trends in individual countries are notable, even as the European Union’s comprehensive research programs strive towards encouraging co-operative projects across borders. In both France and Germany, for example, there is a strong emphasis on the further development of textile technologies for the composites industry, backed by major enduser organizations such as Airbus, as well as car brands such as BMW, Daimler, Peugeot-Citroen, Renault and Volkswagen. Reinforcements for composites involve a wide range of technologies, which will be displayed at ITMA 2019, including weaving and knitting, as well as nonwovens manufacturing, embroidery and braiding. One nerve center for developments in this area is RWTH Aachen University, where more than 20 university institutes focus on state-of-the-art production techniques and are cooperating with machinery makers, robotics companies and software developers to make manufacturing processes efficient enough to allow high-wage countries such as France and Germany to compete on a global level.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

DTG 2 01 9 P rev i ew

DTG 2019 to showcase varieties of sustainable technologies FT Research Team The largest textile machineries trade fair in Bangladesh ‘Dhaka International Textile and Garment Machinery’ (DTG) will showcase the latest technologies for the textile industry. Technology providers are coming with their new innovations and best technology solutions for the millers. The display will be held from 9 - 12th January 2019 at International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB), Dhaka, Bangladesh. Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) and Yorkers Trade & Marketing Service Co., Ltd will jointly organize the exhibitor of DTG 19’. This exhibition is expected to connect local apparel and textiles manufacturers and exporters with the global manufacturers, dealers and suppliers. This fair will also focus on the untapped markets that are flexible and important for Bangladesh. Let’s see which company bringing what.

CHTC FONG’S International Co., Ltd. FONG’S, THEN, GOLLER, MONFORTS FONG’S, MONFORTS, XORELLA, and FWT are the leading brands under CHTC FONG’S International Co., Ltd, and also the renowned labels in the global textile industry. FONG’S, THEN and GOLLER will showcase their latest innovation dyeing and finishing equipment at DTG 2019 at Hall 8, booth 213.

Mahlo Mahlo, is a manufacturer of measuring, control, and automation systems for the textile and finishing industry as well as the coating, film, and paper sector. Mahlo will present their machineries in booth 820.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

DTG 2 01 9 P rev i ew

St채ubli St채ubli will show new textile machinery and system solutions for optimizing workflows in weaving mills at the 16th DTG expo, with Spintex Technology, at booth 7-126 and 7-513, hall 2, from January 9-12, 2019. St채ubli provides technological solutions in the dedicated fields of connectors, robotics, and textile. A range of St채ubli products will be displayed, offering weavers and knitters solutions that are perfectly adapted to their specific needs and requirements: from automation of weaving preparation to ultra- reliable shedding solutions for frame and Jacquard weaving to a revolutionary device that drastically shortens the sockknitting process.

Picanol

Picanol is set to participate in DTG, the 16th Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition, in booth 7-126. Picanol is known to be the most important weaving machine supplier to the Bangladeshi market. The main investments are being made in denim, bottom weights, and shirting and bed sheeting fabrics. Picanol offers both rapier (OptiMax-i, TerryMax-i) and airjet weaving machines (OMNIplus Summum and TERRYplus Summum) for these applications.

ZIMMER AUSTRIA ZIMMER AUSTRIA is a worldwide leader among the producers of machines for textile and carpet finishing (digital printing systems, flat screen and rotary screen printing, coating systems, steaming, washing, drying). They are going to show their latest solutions for digital printing in DTG 2019, visit them at hall 7A, booth 204.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

DTG 2 01 9 P rev i ew

Colorjet

Colorjet to display digital textile printing technologies at DTG-2019, Dhaka, Bangladesh for the first time. It is largest manufacturer of digital textile printing technologies will be launching and showcasing live demonstrations of direct to fabric printer VASTRAJET at the fair in hall no. 6, booth no. 313.

Alpha Systems Ltd. Alpha going to show their innovative machine, the ALPHA LACE CUTTING SYSTEM, the first of itsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; kind, with a laser head and a specialized software to locate the priority points for each panel for accurate cutting. The Alpha Lace Cutting System machine is fully automated, no wastage of expensive laces, single operator meaning less manpower, efficient, fast and higher output ( 800-1,200 lingerie pcs per 8 hour shift). The same machine can be used for other applications such as cutting printed fabric, embroidery and other embellishment work.

TAYA Machinery Corporation As one of the leading manufacturers of electronically and mechanically controlled circular knitting machines worldwide the Terrot Group will exhibit at DTG Bangladesh 2019 with one of its most successful machine types for the Bangladesh market: the universal single jersey machine S296-2 as open width version.

Wuxi Huawen Macinery & Electronics Co., Ltd Wuxi Huawen Macinery & Electronics Co., Ltd is a professional manufacturer to produce two for one twisting machines, yarn doubling machines, pirn winder machines and so on. For the target of specialized high-tech textile machinery supplier, HUAWEN designed the new model HW310J Intelligent two-for-one twisting machine (Flangeless). The machine is an equipment with a high degree of mechanical and electrical integration which will be exhibit in DTG 19â&#x20AC;&#x2122;. 68

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

JH-V HIGH SPEED SINGLE KNIT MACHINE DESIGNED FOR HIGH VOLUME PRODUCTION OF PLAIN JERSEY AND JERSEY WITH LYCRA

Massive production & top quality

The knitting head is incorporated onto Orizio’s new standard frame fitted with an integrated “Oritec” control panel which visibly shows the following information: Clearly readable icons Diagnostic warning signals Built-in preparation for incorporated yarn/fabric measuring program Production data recorded & memorized for 30 days Automatic shift change

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DTG 2 01 9 P rev i ew

Terrot GmbH As one of the leading manufacturers of electronically and mechanically controlled circular knitting machines worldwide the Terrot Group will exhibit at DTG Bangladesh 2019 with one of its most successful machine types for the Bangladesh market: the universal single jersey machine S296-2 as open width version.

Riezu-Tec Riezu-Tec, specialized textile ribbon machines manufacturer from Spain will be exhibiting in DTG fair for its first time ever. Riezu-Tec will be displaying two machines for making ribbon bows aimed to the lingerie, children and women underwear apparel industry. The new JR3000EN-XS-II (Evo2) will be shown as a novelty in the world market since this machine is able to make ribbon bows in an incredibly tiny size, as the trending market is requiring more and more.

Unitop Aquacare Ltd Unitop Aquacare Ltd, an ISO 9001:2015 certiďŹ ed company and a trusted name in the field of industrial evaporation and drying technologies is participating at DTG 2019, in Dhaka. Unitop will promote its caustic recovery technology, which is used, when processing denim or during yarn dyeing mercerization.

Morrison Textile Machinery Co.

The first major innovation in indigo rope washing, the Peak Washer is going to be displayed in DTG 19â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (first introduced at ITMA 2015) offers both improved re-beaming efficiencies and eco-friendly water savings. Naz Corporation is the Bangladeshi agent of Morrison Textile Machinery Co. and meet them at DTG in hall 06, booth â&#x20AC;&#x201C; oo6.

There will be many more participants in the fair will show their latest tech solutions and it will be a great visitants of the tech providers and the millers. The estimated participant is about 1100 in DTG 2019.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Te c h n o l o g y A d o p t i o n

S u p p l e m e n t a r y o n S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

Technology can transform apparel industry FT Research Team New wage board of apparel industry is already in effect from this December, price war is also on the battlefield and production cost is increasing constantly. For this reason, it is being gradually hard for the apparel makers to secure a better profit margin. However, they are not sitting idle, rather trying to find out different ways to increase the profit margin. In this regard, technological development or automation could be a better solution as it helps to cut production cost and increase

productivity.

Country

Global market share in%

Export earnings in $billion

China

34.4

158

Bangladesh

6.5

Vietnam

5.9

India

4.1

Turkey

3.3

Indonesia

1.8

Cambodia

1.6

Bangladesh is the next hub for apparel manufacturing Though there are some barriers, but Bangladesh apparel sector is growing steadily and according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, in July-November period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the readymade garment sector went up by 18.59% to USD 14.18 billion, which was USD 11.96 billion in the same period last year.

Table: Country-wise global market share of apparel exporting in 2017. Source: WTO

Figure 1: H N Ashiqur Rahman, General Manager of Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

Te c h n o l o g y A d o p t i o n

addition. Workers salary has already increased and buyers are continuously squeezing the price. In this situation, automation is the crying need for the industry to sustain the business,” he also added.

Figure 2: S-7250A installed at A-one Polar Ltd.

Vietnam, Turkey, India, Cambodia etc. rival countries are also seeing a huge growth within a short span of time in the apparel export earnings. China is already shifting their focus from basic textile to more high-end and technical products, which is creating an opportunity for others. But, experts predict that after China, Bangladesh is a more capable and ready hub for the apparel industry and it is also working really hard to grab more global market share. After the Rana Plaza incident, Bangladeshi RMG industry has improved the safety standard significantly which restored the buyer’s confidence and they are now positive of placing more orders here. However, as competition is getting harder day by day, so that, there is no option to stop the progress process. In addition, to sustain in this competition, Bangladesh apparel manufacturers need to adopt technology that will further boost the industry.

Right now 51% increase of workers wage is the headache for the apparel manufacturers, as they have to find way outs to stay afloat. There could be many solutions but the technology could play a vital role in this context. H N Ashiqur Rahman, General Manager of Brother International Singapore Pte Ltd, working as a technology provider for more than a decade in the apparel industry said to Textile Today, “Technology always opens a new horizon for the manufacturers. As a technology provider, we are committed to support the industry with better technology. We are continuously working to add new cost-saving features to our machines that will give extra mileage to the manufacturers.” “Currently automation could create an opportunity to expand our garments industry in terms of productivity and value-

Brother is a Japan origin 110 years old world-renowned sewing machine manufacturing company. Recently Brother introduced a new single needle direct drive lock stitch machine called S-7250A with new DFF (Digi Flex Feed) technology. This DFF technology is the latest solution for the apparel industry. This S-7250A machine offers• Direct electric feed control. •3 mm remaining thread after sewing. •5 0% less possibility of needle breakage. • I t is integrated with a complete sealed aluminum oil tank, which will reduce oil stain problem. The most beneficial feature of S-7250A is ‘puckering free sewing quality’. Because DFF technology can change the feed motion depending on sewing material and process. Before at A-One Polar Ltd, the machine-man ratio was 1:1.2 but after installing Brother’s m/c, it is reduced to 1:0.8 which is remarkable for both parties. “We are saving crores of Tk. by using Brother’s m/c specifically the S-7250A and it is also helping

How technology is the solution Many people may say that Bangladesh is not enough prepared to catch the opportunity that has been created for China’s policy. And many may ask “Is Bangladesh enough capable to take that huge load?” The answer is “Yes”! But, many issues have to be considered to remain competitive and to ensure a better profit margin.

Figure 3: Operators are happy to operate a Brother machine for easy handling.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

Te c h n o l o g y A d o p t i o n

us to achieve our sustainable production goal,” said Md. Ahasan Habib, General Manager (Garments Production) of A-one Polar Ltd.

cutting during sewing, sewing quality improvement that means a reduction of thread breakage at high-speed features.

Shah Jalal Rashid, Executive Director of Panwin Designs Limited said to Textile Today, “Almost 50% of our sewing is from Brother and our overall production increased 7-8% after installing brother machines.”

And new drive lockstitch bartacker machine with short remaining thread, industry highest speed 3300 RPM, needle cooler device, enlarge sewing area up to 50X40 mm and seal oil lubrication which is a new addition of Brother for the apparel manufacturers.

Recently Brother introduced new direct drive lockstitch button hole machine with short remaining thread up to 2.5mm, double

Technology always promotes automation but when it is the apparel industry, human

involvement is a must. So, other than technology, an increase of manpower efficiency also could save a significant amount of money. Concededly, technology providers will always provide the latest technology but manufacturers should know what is suitable for them and which technology will last longer and would be feasible for them. It is often seen that factory owners love to buy low price machinery but in the end, it turns into a cost center!

Natpraparn Junlamoon of K+Z Corporation Ltd. receives Outstanding Businesswoman Award 2018 Desk Report Karin Sarasin Thailand’s Chairman of the Thai Chamber of Commerce, together with Khunying Natthika Wattanavekin Angubolkul, President of the Federation of Business and Professional Women’s Associations of Thailand Under The Royal Patronage of H.M. The Queen of Thailand, presented this year’s 2018 Outstanding Businesswoman of Thailand award” to Natpraparn Junlamoon on the 1st of December 2018 at Bangkok International Trade and Exhibition Centre, Bangkok, Thailand. The award by the Thailand Chamber of Commerce, was established to praise businesswomen who have ethically excelled in their businesses achieving great results, having contributed effortlessly to the Chamber of Commerce, including other Institutions and the Thai Society as a whole. Natpraparn Junlamoon, in addition of being the Executive Finance Director of K+Z Corporation Ltd., she is also the Vice President of Nakhon Pathom Chamber of Commerce, President of Nakhon

and Director of the National Outstanding Thai Women Association. K+Z Corporation Ltd. is the manufacturer of Machinery for the Textile Printing, Dyeing and Finishing Industries, whom over the many Years have developed various Machinery for creating solutions for the Textile Printing, Dyeing, and Finishing, with products ranging Figure: (Center) Natpraparn Junlamoon of K+Z Corporation from: Color Paste Ltd. received Outstanding Businesswoman Award 2018 from Thailand Chamber of Commerce Karin Sarasin Preparation Thailand’s Chairman of the Thai Chamber of Commerce Equipment, and Khunying Natthika Wattanavekin Angubolkul, president Rotary Screens of the Federation of Business and Professional Women’s Associations of Thailand under the Royal Patronage of H.M. Preparation the Queen of Thailand. Equipment, Garment Printing Equipment, Pathom province public-private Steam Agers/Polymerizers, and “Pracharat” social enterprise, many other various types of Director of Nakhon Pathom Ancillary Printing Equipment. provincial Red Cross chapter

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

S u p p l e m e n t a r y o n Te c h n o l o g y

BRÜCKNER’s sanforizing range brings best solution for traditional textile Desk Report Ganga Fashions Pvt. Ltd., a successful manufacturer, exporter and supplier of suits and sarees for women was established in the year 1995 in Surat (Gujarat, India). The company is well-furnished with modern machinery in order to meet bulk and urgent demands of their clients. In 2017 the company bought a BRÜCKNER sanforizing range which was set into production in early 2018.

Figure: From left to right: Mr. Shanmughsundaram (Senior Service Engineer, Voltas), Mr. Manish Patidar (Sales Engineer, Voltas), Mr. Ramnath Narsimha (CEO, Ganga Fashions), Mr. Deepak Sabarad (Senior Sales Manager, Voltas).

The suits and sarees are highly demanded for their shrink resistance, fine stitching, smooth texture, skin friendliness, colorfastness, and comfortable

fitting. All these processes are supervised under the guidance of skilled professionals who ensure smooth and systematic production process.

The main components of the line is the rubberbelt compressive shrinking unit, which provides the fabric with a stable structure, a silk-like shining surface, and a smooth hand. In addition, it reduces the residual shrinkage to up to 3%.

The machine is very easy handling, good control of tension and the software allow treating very light fabrics without any marks. The production speed is up to 70 m/min of this machine.

S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

Sustainable warp preparationeconomical and good cost : benefit ratio FT Research Team Bangladesh is seeing a significant rise in weaving and woven processing industry. A number of investments has been made in the denim and non-denim sector. Warp preparation is a very important operation in woven fabric mill. It consumes a lot of energy, chemicals, and even valuable space. Most importantly a problem free high productive warp preparation is something the weavers look for all the time. Leading technology provider KARL MAYER has been providing the latest innovations in warp preparation. The company is providing technologies for Direct Warping, Sectional Warping, and Ball Warping. When sustainability is concerned and people are looking for cleaner technology. Sizing systems and rope dyeing systems of KARL MAYER is putting a great impact in the industry making sure great quality fabric efficiently with ease of operation. Recently in ITMA Asia 2018 held in Shanghai, China, Textile Today Team observed the latest demonstrations of KARL MAYER’s Warp Preparation KARL MAYER Business Unit. The company was giving an eye for the market with the new ISODIRECT direct beaming machine and the VSB Size Box. The technology of the ISODIRECT makes it an efficient direct beamer for the mid-range segment. The company informed that two features, in particular, have set it apart from the rest of the market: the smart reed for automatically adjusting the reed to suit the required yarn number and beam width, and a well-thoughtout system to optimize the

The VSB Size Box of Prosize® operates with three, highly turbulent, homogeneous application zones, spray bar technology and a subsequent application/squeeze roller system instead of the usual immersion and bath application process. This reduces the volume of the size bath and sizing additives, Figure 1: Khalid Ibne Ashraf, Director, Cott-tex Associates thus decreasing explained the groundbreaking benefits of VSB size box of latest Karl Mayer Prosize®. Cott-tex Associates is the the environmental local representative of Karl Mayer in Bangladesh. impact. The size film is also extremely uniform and less interfaces between the direct and fiber dust is produced. All this the PROSIZE® sizing machine. enables weaving efficiency to be While talking to KARL MAYER’s maximized. Other advantages of Bangladesh agent Khalid Ibne the new wetting process include a Ashraf it has been learned that 20% larger yarn coating zone and the key element of the PROSIZE® a much-reduced dwell time, even is the VSB Size Box, whose after long machine stoppages. innovative application system ISODIRECT is a direct warping considerably reduces costs and machine providing world’s first the environmental impact. He with a unique cost: benefit ratio. also informed that up to 10% of This all-round machine can process the size alone can be saved. The every type of staple-fiber yarn vertical arrangement of the size and produces high-quality beams box, in particular, is new in the at warping speeds of up to 1,000 market and was well received m/min-1. Thanks to a smart press by the customers. Compared to roller system and automatic yarn the horizontally arranged HSB, uncrossing, these are perfectly the VSB can be made wider. cylindrical and have identical This enables the PROSIZE® to warped lengths. A computerbe operated as a single size controlled measuring system box. Having one application unit prevents any deviation above instead of two produces more 0.15%. The ISODIRECT also handles uniform beams and reduces stress the yarn and package gently, on the yarns. The demonstration thanks to the kickback system, of warp preparation was which swivels the press roller out complemented by innovations for immediately if there is a stoppage. the denim sector and sectional Other advantages include its low warping, which were shown at maintenance costs and optimum KARL MAYER (CHINA). operating ergonomics.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

KARL MAYER WE CARE ABOUT YOUR FUTURE

WARP PREPARATION

Warp Direct

WARP PREPARATION

Sectional Warping (ISO)

WARP PREPARATION

LCB

Sizing (ISZ/ISO)

WARP PREPARATION

Ball Warping

WARP PREPARATION

Prodye â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Slasher/Rope (Indigo Dyeing Range)

Agent:

Cott-tex Associates House# 39(L-8), Road # 15, Rabindra Sarani Sector # 3, Uttara Model Town, Dhaka 1230

CTA

Cott-tex.associates

Phone : +8 8 0 2 4 8 9 5 4 0 8 9 , 5 8 9 5 4 7 9 2 Email : offiice@cott-tex.com, Khalid@cott-tex.com Web : www.cott-tex.com

S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

Rieter’s customized solutions with upgraded ring and compact spinning machines Customized solutions to suit any customer requirement: The new ring and compact-spinning machines are highly productive, extremely flexible and save a lot of energy. But which machine is the best choice for which market, and what advantages do the new models offer? Desk Report Rieter is further upgrading its end spinning product range with the new ring spinning machines G 37 and G 38, as well as the new compact-spinning machines K 47 and K 48. The four new models join the two models already established on the market, the ring spinning machine G 32 and the compact-spinning machine K 42.

is not a shortage of available personnel and the requirements for flexibility and yarn quality are high. They provide customers with a high level of flexibility thanks to their unrestricted application range at full machine length, also for special yarns.

The 8 Series – The HighPerformance Machines The machines G 38 and K 48 are particularly suitable for markets that have limited personnel availability and that require particularly high levels of flexibility and yarn quality. Machines in the 8 series enable customers to benefit from the highest levels of automation and performance. The G 38 and K 48 are equipped with the electronic drafting system drive FLEXIdraft as standard. This reduces downtime when changing to a different yarn count and maximizes production time. The premium version of the individual spindle monitoring ISM is integrated into both models. Thereby customers can save personnel costs of about five

percent compared to the G 32 and K 42. The machine concept for the G 38 and K 48, which features doublesided suction, allows unrestricted spinning for all applications at full machine length. Thanks to the integrated VARIOspin system for slub yarns, customers can change between standard and slub yarns simply at the touch of a button. The 7 Series – The Versatility Specialists The models G 37 and K 47 were developed for markets where there

Figure 1: The new G 38 ring spinning machine by RIETER.

Machines in the 7 series also come with the electronic drafting system drive FLEXIdraft, maximizing production time. Both models are equipped with the integrated basic version of the individual spindle monitoring ISM as standard, meaning customers can about three percent on personnel costs compared to the G 32 and K 42.

Figure 2: The new tube loader ROBOload “wild loading” automatically sorts the empty tubes, reducing the amount of work required enormously.

Other Advantages of the New Models The K 47 and the K 48 are fitted with a new sieve drum, which now allows customers to spin blends containing polyester and 100% viscose alongside cotton. An impressive feature of the new K models is their unbeatably low energy requirements for compacting: less than one watt per spindle, just 20% of that of other solutions. All four new models can be upgraded with the new LENA spindle and the highly efficient 110-kW motor, enabling customers to make further significant energy savings. The “EliTe®compact spinning system” for producing high-quality compact yarns is available as an option on the three conventional ring spinning machines G 32, G 37 and G 38.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing D e ce m ber 2018

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 12 l Pages 79 to 96

CHT’s organIQ BLEACH, a smart alternative to potassium permanganate for denim fabric bleaching

CPB dyeing saves 50% water of Robintex Group

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

“Transfar Chemicals is in the global platform with a vision of ethical and sustainable business”

U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s

Biolase APC – a combined bio-scouring & bio-polishing enzyme by Raas Biotech

Global Leader in the Manufacturer of Dyestuffs and Intermediates

Liyuansol Classic for Cellulose Liyuansol BLF Series for Better Lightfastness Liyuansol HS Series for Deep Shade along with excellent RFT Liyuansol FL Series for Top Lightfastness (PLF)

We are on our way-

Address: House-11 (5th Floor), Road-07, Sector-12, Uttara Model Town, Dhaka-1230 Tel: +88 01713 027506, +88 01708 539402 Email: dndchem@yahoo.com, info@dndchem.com

Room - 501, Unit-7, Oceanwide International SOHO Town, Huaihai Road, Jianghan District , Wuhan City, Hubei Province, 430000, China Tel: 0086-27-88185025 | Fax: 0086-27-88185276

Viyellatex Group, the first Bangladeshi knit fabric manufacturer achieves bluesign® certificate FT Research Team Viyellatex Group is the world’s first knit composite manufacturer became bluesign® system partner. It received bluesign® certificate as the very first Bangladeshi apparel manufacturer on 29 November at Le Meridien, Dhaka. The Viyellatex Group is composed of a variety of operational and functional units such as spinning, knitting, dyeing, washing, printing, embroidery, and stitching, all based in the greater Dhaka area. It supplies knit and woven garments, mainly t-shirts and shirts, for top European and American brands, including Puma, Calvin Klein, and Tommy Hilfiger etc. Recently Textile Today visited

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Viyellatex to know the details about the accomplishment. The vision of Viyellatex Group is ‘to be the most regarded company’. They are committed to a cleaner and greener environment. In fact, they drive the business with a responsibility to the society as a corporate body. It is conscious about sustainability issues from the very beginning of its business journey so they took sustainable initiatives towards ensuring social and environmental prosperity. David Hasanat, Chairman of Viyellatex Group stated, “From the beginning of the establishment of Viyellatex Group in 1996 we entered into a partnership and

Volume 11, Issue 12

collaboration agreement with Huntsman Textile Effects. After the time being we almost used 90-95% complied products as we committed to becoming an environment-friendly organization. Moreover, we hired a consultant from Germany in 2009 to continue the growth. By 2010, we were almost ready to be 100% complied factory as Viyellatex Group placed a strong emphasis on sustainability by minimizing energy usage, adopting waste and water recycling, and using only organic materials and environmentally compliant chemicals and dyes.” “By the late of 2018, we achieved the bluesign® recognition. But the achievement was not so easy

Figure 2: David Hasanat, Chairman of Viyellatex Group.

because the bluesign® criteria are very stringent to maintain. However, we were successful as we have a policy of using better raw material for production.” bluesign® frequently assess the company to make sure the criteria set by bluesign® are maintained. A mutually agreed roadmap guarantees the continuous improvement. Every organizational body can be benefited by their global expertise and guidance. There are a lot of tangible and intangible benefits as well who are using bluesign® approved products. David Hasanat urged the factory owners to use better chemistry to fulfill today’s needs, which is given if inputs and products comply with the bluesign® criteria so that Bangladesh as a country can have a better image as a sustainablefocused nation to produce a safer product for the end consumer. He expressed his expectation to grow all together in a sustainable way.

campaign, there is a possibility of increased difficulty for not using safe materials. Along with that, out of 17 goals from SDG 2030, there are many which are very specific about the environment, workers’ safety, hazardous chemicals, responsible sourcing etc. These areas are exactly on which the bluesign® system focuses.”

bluesign® frequently assess the company to make sure the criteria set by bluesign® are maintained. A mutually agreed roadmap guarantees the continuous improvement. Every organizational body can be benefited by their global expertise and guidance. There are a lot of tangible and intangible benefits as well who are using bluesign® approved products.

“The bluesign® system guarantees the application of sustainable ingredients in a clean process at which end stands a safely manufactured product. As a result, the textile industry manages the natural resources soundly and responsibly, reduces water and air emissions, improves its wastewater treatment, saves the cost of production by optimized use of resources and generally reduces its ecological footprint,” he added.

Shahan Reza, Country Relation Manager, Bangladesh of bluesign® highlighted the importance of bluesign® and said, “By the end of 2019, because of the DETOX

Shahan Reza further mentioned, “bluesign® has over 560 system partners globally, out of which more than 50% are manufacturers. We are happy that Viyellatex Group has taken the right decision

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

at the right time. Our global team was happy to work with them as from the beginning Viyellatex Group were very supportive and prompt on taking appropriate actions. They have taken bluesign® certification for seven of their products. Viyellatex Group will be able to use the bluesign® approved logo for these products from now on.” Shahan Reza further added about the system: “bluesign® performs production site EHS/ OHS assessment including material and processes, does an evaluation of all emissions, implements and qualifies chemical management, benchmark cost savings through resource consumption and environmental performances, provides training and guidance on regulations and chemical management. It also performs reassessment within 3 years to make sure continuous improvement of the overall situations.”

Figure 3 (L-R): Shahan Reza, Country Relation Manager (Bangladesh), Walter Streitler, Head of Customer Relation Asia, bluesign®; Abdur Rashid, Country Manager, Bangladesh, SGS Group.

bluesign® has the largest database of safe chemicals and safe raw materials, i.e. fabric, fiber, accessories etc. which are authenticated and guaranteed. The world is getting more and more concern regarding the

impact of using hazardous materials and new regulations are coming up every day. Partnering with bluesign® may have a positive impact not only on the country’s image and business but also for the future generation.

Contact with bluesign® personnel in Bangladesh - shahan_reza@bluesign.com

Do you want to be a Join the Foundation Training on

Factory Skills Development (FSD) & become the future leader as Fabric Technologist

FSD Courses

Certified Fabric Technologist

Options

Date

Time

Textile Fibre, Yarn & Fabric

Mandatory

16th,23rd February & 2nd, 9th March

Knitting & Knit Processing

Mandatory

25th January, 1st, 8th, 10th February

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Weaving & Woven Processing

Optional

1st, 8th, 15th & 22nd March

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Quality Assurance

Optional

12th, 19th, 26th & 29th January.

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Denim Development & Manufacturing

Optional

18th, 25th January,1st & 2nd February

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Apparel Supply Chain Management

Optional

22th, 29th March ,5th & 12th April.

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Partcipants have to take 4 courses from above 6 for being Certified Fabric Technologist.

Transforming Human Capital

NORTHERN TOSRIFA GROUP

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Sustainable Processing

CPB dyeing saves 50% water of Robintex Group FT Research Team Ecological sustainability demands are constantly rising, especially with regard to the consumption of water and energy. Cold Pad Batch (CPB) dyeing is one of the most economical and environmentally friendly approaches in the textile industry. With the vision of cleaner production and sustainability, a Bangladesh-Germany joint venture factory Robintex Group introduced CPB dyeing in Bangladesh for the first time. They started CPB in mass production from 2017 in Narayangonj factory. Robintex placed its stenter, straighter, compactor and all other dyeing finishing machines from Germany. Foreign experts help maintain the groups dyeing standards and develop its local expertise as well. It has the most contemporary sample dyeing machine also. Many methods are used for dyeing cotton with reactive dyes, but the CPB method is relatively more environment-friendly due to high dye fixation and non-requirement of thermal energy owing to low bath ratio (M: L = 1:1) required for the process. It is a widely used technique for the semi-continuous dyeing process. Engr. Muhammad Mahiuddin, Executive Vice President of Robintex Group said, “Environmental responsibility is best achieved in cold pad-batch application since no salt and steam is required, the rate of dye fixation is at ambient temperature is high. It’s also a cost-effective process with a very high level of reproducibility.” Robintex is using ERBATECH machine from Germany which runs on average 40m/min and user-friendly. ERBATECH padder

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 1: Robintex is the successful implementer of CPB dyeing in Bangladesh.

has Nip dyeing system, so tailing problem is eliminated. Their production capacity is 20 ton per day. They are using nip pad where dyes are picked up instantly. There has no chance for hydrolyzed. A uniform dye quality is achieved with even color absorbency and colorfastness. In pad batch dyeing, qualities like high shade reliability and repeatability are common. This is because of the high reactivity of dyes with rapid fixation rate and stability.

process instead of bio polishing from a sustainability aspect. Because bio polishing requires a huge amount of water and chemicals and finally decreases the strength of the fabric. At the same time, they practice drying and finishing on stenter machine to eliminate the process.

Behind the story of a successful pioneer, Muhammad Mahiuddin shared, “We are using the same type of machinery for pretreatment, dyeing, and washing for a continuous process. Our In the pretreatment process, machine and chemical suppliers Robintex is using the singeing have supported Comparison of consumtion values us during the installation. It 70 l/kg 5.0 kg/kg 0.40 kWG/kg must require to be the same nature of all dyeing process, 28 l/kg 1.8 kg/kg 0.18 kWG/kg otherwise, perfect dyeing couldn’t be achieved. Some factories installed Water Steam Electricity Consumption Consumption Consumption machinery (Without stenter) (Without stenter) before us but Exhaust dyeing CPB dyeing they did not take Figure 2: Comparison between exhaust and CPB dyeing’s the risk of mass consumption values (as provided by Robintex).

Volume 11, Issue 12

Sustainable Processing

production. In here, now we are the successful pioneer of CPB dyeing.”

a strong alternative than the conventional exhaust dyeing. Where salt in the effluent is an issue CPB dyeing should be the method of choice, hence less TDS in ETP. These benefits contribute to the sustainable development of the entire textile industry,” Mahiuddin further added.

A report showing that Cold Pad Batch dyeing technology achieves 13% carbon savings and over 50% water savings in fabric manufacturing compared with the conventional processes using exhaust dyeing.

Robintex has been awarded “The best works friendly knit factory” by the government of Bangladesh. It’s most advanced and dynamic Figure 3: Engr. Muhammad Mahiuddin, Executive Vice President of ERP backed inherent Robintex Group. system figures out the most efficient economy alternative dyeing methods to CPB Compared to traditional exhaust of scale in which cost optimization, like exhaust method are expensive dyeing methodology, CPB dyeing timely delivery, global standard, due to the requirement of thermal technology consumes less water, appropriate technology, skilled energy for dye fixation. energy, and chemical. It also human resource and all together, has the capability of continuous “I believed that improved the maximum benefits to the production. The reduced dyeing environmental impact, resource valued customers head for the auxiliary concentration leads to efficiency savings and the higher optimal harmony. minimize the waste effluent. The quality of CPB-dyed fabric present The CPB procedure is simple since the only step involved in the passage of fabric through the dye bath and squeezing through the dyeing padder with subsequent batching for twelve hours.

Do you want to be a

Certified Apparel Manufacturing Technologist

Join the Foundation Training on

Factory Skills Development (FSD) & become the future leader as Apparel Manufacturing Technologist.

Factory Skills Development Courses

Option

Date th

Lean Manufacturing

Mandatory

Product Development

Mandatory

Time

February

9.00 AM-5.00 PM

15th, 17th February

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

11th, 18th, 25th & 27th January th

Industrial Engineering

Optional

Quality Control & Inspection

Optional

12th, 19th, 26th & 29th January.

Apparel Supply Chain Management

Optional

Product Planning & Control

Optional

March, 5 , 12

, 29 th

& 15 th

March & 5 , 12 th

5 , 11 , 18 , 20

April.

January

April

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM 9.00 AM- 1.00 PM 9.00 AM- 1.00 PM 9.00 AM- 1.00 PM 4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Partcipants have to take 4 courses from above 6 for being Certified Apparel Manufacturing Technologist.

Contact:  House-25A, Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh.  +88 02 55093682 |  +88 01734211085 |  info@textiletoday.com.bd  h t t p : // t ra i n i n g .t ex t i l e t o d ay.c o m . b d

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Sustainable Processing

CHT’s organIQ BLEACH, a smart alternative to potassium permanganate for denim fabric bleaching FT Research Team Bleaching jeans in an environmentally friendly way is always a challenge for denim manufacturers. The CHT Group has developed the organIQ BLEACH System as an alternative to potassium permanganate (KMnO4). organIQ BLEACH is the first patented purely organic bleaching agent for denim materials by which jeans bleaching becomes innovative. It is an effective and reproducible jeans treatment with advantages for the environment. Why organIQ BLEACH The organIQ BLEACH system is a completely biodegradable bleaching agent for denim. Potassium permanganate can be completely replaced in the spraying procedure. In case of an application with fog system, stonewash, and chlorine bleaches, all can be replaced with cold treatments, extremely low water consumption and least wastewater pollution. Advantages of organIQ BLEACH A big ecological advantage of the organIQ BLEACH system is the good biodegradability of the bleaching agent in comparison to potassium permanganate (KMnO4). • The pure organic bleaching agent •F ree from heavy metal, chlorine, and AOX •C ompletely biodegradable (> 99% in compliance with OECD 301B) • Without persistent components

organalQ BUFFER AL [g/l] 140

122 114

120

105 100

93 82

72 62

52 42

32 20

00 0

120 140 180 125 150 175 organlQ BLEACH T [g/l]

100

potassium permanganate (KMnO4) is the most used bleaching procedure worldwide, most reliable and proven bleaching procedures for denim fabrics but still, it is not that environmentfriendly in many ways like•M anganese is a heavy metal and non-biodegradable. •P otassium permanganate (KMnO4) belongs to the hazardous substances, which pose a great risk for the environment due to the high fish toxicity. • In many countries, there are strict regulations or even obligatory to take into account that any misuse of KMnO4 is avoided. •C MR classification for KMnO4 under evaluation at ECHA (European Chemical Agency). Reference: CLP Annex VI, No. 025:-022-00:-9 organIQ BLEACH spray application The organIQ BLEACH system has three parts, main part is BLEACH

• No risk for the environment •N o soiling of wastewater with heavy metals

250

270

275

300

T, BUFFER AO works as activator and organIQ ASSIST works as spray amount indicator. organIQ BLEACH T alone in solution is water-clear, which is why organIQ ASSIST is added in spray application to make it visible. organIQ ASSIST has no affinity to fibers, so it can be easily rinsed out and also completely biodegradable (according to OECD 301B). organIQ BLEACH + fog application The combination of modern technologies such as organIQ + fog application leads to ecological washing results with maximum efficiency means protection of resources. These technologies are based on an extremely fine distribution of the product in the form of fog in the washing machine. A very homogeneous distribution and a very low liquor pick-up are obtained. This provides water and product saving process.

16 14 12

SAVINGS 31.6 %

10 8

• No need of neutralization

SAVINGS 66.7 %

Threats of potassium permanganate

2 0 CONVENTIONAL Bathas

220 225

•N o necessity of a where-used list according to valid legal requirements

The spray application with

200

CONVENTIONAL

FOG (organlQ + CORE) Steps FOG (organlQ + CORE)

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Sustainable Processing

Biolase APC – a combined bio-scouring & bio-polishing enzyme by Raas Biotech Desk Report To reduce chemical, water, time & energy consumption. RAAS biotech brings groundbreaking revolution in knit pre-treatment and enzyme process. It offers a combined bio scouring and enzyme process by a single product called Biolase APC that eliminates using of seven pre-treatment chemicals. The combined process considerably reduce chemical, water, time and energy consumption in the knit dyeing process. This Malaysia based company is renowned for manufacturing enzymes and auxiliaries, operating a business in Bangladesh for the last 10 years. Biolase APC offers a combined bio scouring and enzyme process that eliminates seven to eight chemicals like, Sequestering Agent, Anti Creasing agent, Caustic Soda, Peroxide, Stabilizer, Peroxide killer, and enzyme.

of Companies Limited. In fabric dyeing industry maintaining the cost of sustainability is quite a big issue as the dyeing process uses many hazardous chemicals and to neutralize them a huge amount of ETP chemical is needed. Biolase APC is an enzyme-based product so it is totally biodegradable so the process releases minimum TDS on ETP thus minimize the usage of ETP chemical. “We choose Biolase APC as it needs less process time, less water and saves a significant amount of energy for fabric processing, because as a part of sustainability practice we always try to implement the 3R process (Reduce, Reuse, Recycle). This also allows less TDS on ETP as the product is enzyme based biodegradable” Imtiaz Uddin Topu, GM, Fabrics, Hams Garments Limited.

The dyeing industry is facing rising process cost as the price of energy and material goes up, Biolase APC is the demand of time as it saves overall 35% of energy consumption. We are getting a very good response from the dyeing industry as this product meeting their demand.

“In recent days the cost of business has been increased significantly. We are always looking for the product and process that could reduce the cost as well as maintain the quality. Biolase APC has significantly reduced the fabric pre-treatment and enzyme cost as it needs less chemical, water, energy & time,” Engr. Kawsar Alam Sikder, COO, Textile Division, Asrotex Group one of the users of Biolase APC told.

Generally, the knit pre-treatment & enzyme process takes 3.30 hours while Biolase APC only takes 1.30 hours to complete the process and delivery more production as it saves time.

In this fast fashion arena, the manufacturers are in a hustle to meet the shorter shipment date. Companies have set up R&D department to innovate process and ideas to enhanced production efficiency to deliver more production within the time bound.

“Our dyeing production per day has been increased after using Biolase APC. Generally, it takes 3.30 hours, but Biolase APC only takes 1.30 hours for souring & enzyme” Mohammed Ashraful Hossain (Shimul), General Manager, Knit Dyeing Division, Shovon Group

Rasheedul Islam CEO, Aux & Hue

Biolase APC becomes widely accepted and reliable to popular Bangladeshi knit dyeing and finishing factories like HAMS Group, NAZ Bangladesh Ltd, Asrotex Group, Crony Group, Libas Textile, Model De Capital, Shovon Knitwear, Unity Fabric, Rising Group, Anontex Group, Mascom Composite Ltd, Rony Textile, Ibrahim Knit Composite, Fatullah Dyeing and many more companies. “The dyeing industry is facing rising process cost as the price of energy and material goes up, Biolase APC is the demand of time as it saves overall 35% of energy consumption. We are getting a very good response from the dyeing industry as this product meeting their demand” Rasheedul Islam, CEO, Aux & Hue (Local agent of Raas Biotech) expressed.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Needle free space dyeing, No more yarn breakage

Steamer

SDS - Space Dyeing Station Small Surface Required

Giant Hanks

Customer Reference-

New Effects

Low Liquir Ratio

○ Epyllion Fabrics Ltd. (Yarn Dyed)

House-B148 (2nd Floor), Road-22, New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206 Mob: 01711558828, 01625387580, E-mail: info@traderay.net, rasel@traderay.net Website: http://www.traderay.net

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Exclusive Interview

“Transfar Chemicals is in the global platform with a vision of ethical and sustainable business” Founded in 1986, Transfar Group is a private enterprise group with diversified businesses. Transfar Chemicals is an important part of the Group’s five largest utility transmission platform, with more than 12000 employees and annual sales of over USD 1.2 billion. Based on its global production and supply network, it is actively pushing forward its internationalization strategy by building wide international market networks in APAC, America, Europe, the Middle East, and Africa. It has also established strategic partnerships with some wellknown multinational companies including BASF and Shell. Recently, TANATEX Chemicals, a global leader in specialist textile chemicals become the part of Transfar Chemicals Co. LTD. Michael Zhou, President of Transfar Chemicals Group, who has the versatile knowledge and a huge experience in this industry gave an interview altogether with Youlin Fu, Vice President; Shengpeng Wang, Technical Center Director and Bruce Liu, Senior Sales Manager with Textile Today Research Team recently. Through this conversation, many domestic and global issues came out with solutions. Textile Today: Earlier Transfar Chemicals was a Chinese based company but now it expressed itself as a global company by taking the full share of Tanatex Chemicals, a Netherlands based company. What actually thrived it to go in the global platform? Michael Zhou: Transfar Chemicals is in the global platform with a vision of ethical and sustainable

is the biggest step to coming up to the form of internationalization. But it is really important to understand the global market. Textile Today: Recently Chinese Ministry of Ecology and Environment (MEE) shut down many chemical factories in China, how does it affect the business? And what are your strategies to cope with the new Chinese regulations?

Michael Zhou President of Transfar Chemicals Co. Ltd.

business. First of all, we studied about the global market for such a long time and then we are here now and purchased Tanatex Chemicals which we are considering as an important move for Transfar Chemicals to be a global company. China has been a key player in the textile industry for all of the time but except China, there are many more markets of textile auxiliaries and chemicals. This is the first reason why we are in the global platform. Again, we already have more than 30 years of experience and we have almost all chemical solution for a dye-house. Precisely, our strength actually thrived us to go in the global platform and we are committed to sharing our ideas and experiences to all of the customers for providing a better solution. So, this is the second reason for the globalization of our company. Then coming up to Tanatex Chemicals, which

Michael Zhou: Changing MEE policy definitely affecting the whole chemical business in China, in the greater angle it is actually dominating the world chemical business. It has two impacts, one is negativeit is affecting the customer collaboration, another impact is positive- this policy of Chinese ministry will accelerate the transformation of our customers from the low end product order to high end product order which actually will make the scope to develop the economy and improve the products structure better than anytime. So, we want to provide continuous solutions by improving our service and product structure according to the customers demand. We also want to provide some clean chemicals and that is the low emission chemicals which will be the energy saving product. Some more services we are providing as to reduce the emission of the chemicals and about the proper use of these chemicals. Now we are thinking of differentiating the chemicals from the wastewater, which are very necessary for the dyeing factories. This is how we are reshaping us in a better way though we were always conscious.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Exclusive Interview

Textile Today: Do you think Chinese policy on the environment will cause many dyeing mills to shift to countries such as India, Bangladesh, and Southeast Asia? How does this trend impact the whole value chain? Michael Zhou: Actually, before the policy changing chemical industries started to shift from China to other countries. So, policy-changing is not the only reason behind shifting. Transformation is a manufacturing habit as different countries opened a new market. So, production factories location inspired the chemical manufacturers in some points. However, in China, we have an integrated supply chain, which is very important for upgrading the product structure and design to a certain level, which is the best for this continuous marketing system. I think, in future due to this type of change in the supply chain, Chinese chemical manufacturers will pay more attention to develop their ability of garments design, fashion etc. which can really make the impact on the trend of shifting in other countries very well. Textile Today: We know Transfar has a huge products variation. Please share your products range and what new products you are going to bring in the Bangladeshi market. Michael Zhou: Actually, we have a long range of products for various industries including textile. We are providing different types of products mainly knit dyeing dyes and chemicals, as we know that Bangladesh is very strong for knit processing. So, we are focusing right now in this segment and our products are structured in the same focus. But we are also concerned that Bangladesh woven sector is booming gradually and we have also planned for that. We are also developing some energy saving low emission products and we want to introduce some functional products in Bangladesh market. We also noticed that the Bangladesh

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 2: (R-L) Shengpeng Wang, Technical Center Director; Youlin Fu, Vice President; Bruce Liu, Senior Sales Manager, and Amit Sarker, Technical Engineer of Transfar International Group.

government has some special policies like ‘tax-free policy’. In that case, we are developing some high solid content products and hopefully, we would be able to work here more intensively in the future. Textile Today: Transfar Chemicals Co. Ltd. is now in the global platform along with its ideas, products, and surveys. So, what is Transfar Chemicals doing to establish ZDHC and sustainability in the textile industry? Michael Zhou: From very beginning, Transfar Chemicals is committed and actively working for sustainability. ZDHC is one of the important commitment of our company’s roadmap and from 2014, we have associated with ZDHC. To ensure ZDHC and sustainability in the textile industry, it is very important to work all the parties in the supply chain to keep the environment safe. Of course, it is not only our responsibility, brands and manufacturers should also take responsibility. To comply with the ZDHC and sustainability standard, we are structuring our product carefully. Not only ZDHC, there are other bodies to ensure the environmental safety and we are actively working with them also. Transfar Chemicals acts as the secretariat of Subcommittee on Textile Auxiliaries of National Technical Committee on Dyestuff of Standardization Administration of China and is a National Work Safety Standardization Grade

Volume 11, Issue 12

2 Enterprise. We are also an important member of the Textile Supply Chain Green Manufacturing Industry Innovation Alliance and other organizations. Our labs are certified by CNAS (China National Accreditation Service for Conformity Assessment). In addition, Transfar Chemicals passed the certification of bluesign®, a Swiss certification for textiles impact on the environment and goes onto the supplier list of internationally known enterprises such as H&M. Textile Today: As we have already seen that Transfar Chemicals expanded its business in the global platform. So, how is your business growth in Bangladesh and does Transfar Chemicals has any expansion plan in Bangladesh based on the global promotion plan of an international company? Michael Zhou: Actually, we have a different strategy and plans for the different countries based on the market situation. We are very proud to say that in Bangladesh we have a very good response from our customers. Our yearly growth is 20% which is satisfying and also in Bangladesh yearly sales volume is about 30 million RMB. In the question of expansion in Bangladesh, we are still researching on our customers and their feedbacks and assessing the prospects of the Bangladesh textile industry, we will take the decision.

Steam Management

Forbes Marshall solution for recovering condensate and flash steam FT Research Team Steam is an essential source of power for an industry especially when it is textile industry. Often it is seen in the factory the misuse of steam which is a direct waste of money! There is already pressure on the manufacturers that how to save money. Recovery of condensate and flash steam could save a huge amount for the industrialists and Forbes Marshall has a special solution for it. Forbes Marshall is a leader in process efficiency and energy conservation for process industry for more than seven decades. Innovative solutions, knowledge, reliable products and global presence in more than 50 locations made them a trusted partner. They are the manufacturer of the widest range of steam engineering and control instrumentation products including - Steam Boilers (Gas/ Oil/Solid Fuel fired), Exhaust Gas Boilers (EGB), Temperature & Pressure Control System, Condensate Recovery System, Steam Traps, Zero Leakage Piston Valves, Flow meters (for every application), almost everything related to steam and control instrumentation. What is condensate? Condensate is the result of steam transferring a portion of its heat energy, known as latent heat, to the product or equipment being heated. As steam loses heat and it turns back into the water, it contains 20% energy of the total steam. This condensate water has a temperature equal to that of steam and it is basically distilled water, which is ideal for use as boiler feed water.

Illustrations: Benefits of Condensate Return High Feedwater temp.

Reduced fresh water

High efficency with better boiler health

Reduced Blowdown

Condensate Return

Recovering condensate reduces the fuel bill Returning condensate to the boiler feed water tank raises the feed water temperature, improving the steam to fuel ratio. This cuts the fuel consumption thereby reducing the fuel bill.

Illustration: Consider, 1 kg of feed water to be converted to steam at 5 bar g. So, improvement of feed water temperature by recovering condensate from 30 to 90 deg C will give 10% fuel savings.

Case-1

Case-2

A Feed Water Temp.

40˚C

46˚C

Amount of energy in feed water

40 kCal

46 kCal

Steam at 5 bar g contains

658 kCal/kg

GCV of fuel (Natural Gas)

8700 kCal/m3

Amount of fuel required to produce steam, (C-B)/D

0.071 m3

0.070 m3

Table: As a rule of thumb, every 60C rise in feed water temperature saves 1% on the fuel bill.

In textile industries, there is an opportunity to recover the maximum condensate water as boiler feed water where the makeup water requirement will be negligible. Higher feed water temperature increases the boiler output The capacity of a boiler is stated in ‘from & at’ rating which shows the amount of steam in kg/hr. which the boiler can create ‘from

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Steam Management

Oxygen & othet gases to vent

FORBES MARSHALL SULUTION OF CONDENSATE RECOVERY SYSTEM Although Flash Steam is 10~15% in mass but it Flash Steam Return connais 50% of total condensate return Condensate Deaerator Return

Cold Make up water

High Pressure Steam

Flash Vessel (FV) Pump Exhaust

Steam Trap Returned Condensate contains 20% energy of steam

Motive Steam or air supply

Reservoir Condensate Recovery System Comprises: 1. Pressure Power Pump Unit (PPPU) Pressure Power [for pumping condensate to FWT] Pump Unit (PPPU) 2. Flash Vessel (FV) [to separate flash steam from condensate] 3. Deaerator Head [for proper mixing of condensate, flash & makeup water]

& at’ 100 deg C, at atmospheric pressure. Thus, the close the feed water temperature to 100 deg C, the closer the output generated to rated capacity. Across most of the plants the feed water temperature is rarely maintained 100 deg C. Mostly it is ambient or slightly higher than ambient. This leads to a poor steam to fuel ratio and lowers the boiler capacity. The following formula helps to calculate the steam output from the boilerSteam output = Boiler rating (kg/ hr. x [A / (B-C)] Where, A = Specific Enthalpy of Evaporation at atmospheric pressure = 540 kCal/kg

Here, 500C rise in temperature in feed water increases the steam generation- 757 kg/hr. Flash steam contains almost 50% energy Flash steam is low-pressure steam created when hot condensate water is released from a high pressure to a lower pressure within a steam system. It can be released through steam trap or blow through. Recovering flash steam is as important as recovering condensate water. Although flash steam is very less (8~10%) in mass but it contains about 40~50% energy of the total condensate. The following formula helps to calculate the flash steam-

C = Specific Enthalpy of Feed Water Illustration:

If, Condensate load is 3000 kg/hr.

For a 10 ton/hr. capacity boiler, at 9 bar g operating pressure

Steam Pressure is 6 bar g Flash Pressure is 0.5 bar g

Feed Water Temperature

40˚C

90˚C

% Flash Steam = 10% = 300 kg/hr.

Max. steam generation capacity

8,667 kg/hr.

9,424 kg/hr.

Flash steam should be recovered to the feed water tank or it can be used in somewhere else.

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Float Trap

% of Flash Steam = [(Enthalpy of Fluid * steam press. – Enthalpy of Fluid * Flash Press.) / (Enthalpy of Vapor * Steam Press. - Enthalpy of Fluid * Flash Press.)]

B = Specific Enthalpy of Steam at operating pressure

Feed Water Tank (FWT)

Other benefits are•C ondensate water is free from TDS (total dissolve solid) and it reduces the requirement of blowdown thereby curtailing blowdown losses. •C ondensate does not need to undergo water treatment and thus saving water treatment cost. •R ecovering condensate reduces the cost for oxygen scavenging chemicals, since the improved temperature reduces the amount of dissolve oxygen mostly. •U sing Flash Condensing Deaerator Head helps to mix the condensate & flash steam with makeup water and reduce the oxygen and other gases from the feed water. Forbes Marshall has a complete solution for condensate & flash steam recovery system with their Pressure Powered Package Pumping Unit (PPPPU) which is one of the most efficient way of recovering condensate. It does not need any storage and electrical pump. More than 350 installations of Forbes Marshall Condensate Recovery Units are there in different textile industries in Bangladesh.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Unveiling industry best practices

D e n i m F a b r i c & E ff e c t s D e ce m b e r 2 01 8

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 12 l Pages 97 to 113

What will be the denim trend of 2019?

Bangladesh's denim washing and its fashion scenario

Absolute Denim to switch 100% of its production to aniline-free* indigo dyeing

Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & Knitwear

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

D T- E d i t o r i a l

Bangladesh government has to prioritize denim sector and provide all-out support to the entrepreneurs Akhi Akter Denim fabrics and its diversified products have become the leading products for the homegrown exporter of Bangladesh. The country has turned into a hot spot for denim exporting in global markets. Bangladesh, the second largest producer of denim products after China, is exporting denim products approximately

denim fabrics manufacturing. The major global retailers in the world to which Bangladesh supplies denim products are H&M, Uniqlo, Tesco, Walmart, Levi's, Diesel, Wrangler, G-Star, s.Oliver, Hugo Boss, and Gap. Denim export scenario Bangladeshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s denim manufacturers

Jackets, Blue Denim Suit Type Coats MB, Playsuits and Sun suits etc. With a 14.20% market share, Bangladesh now is also the third largest exporter of denim products in the US after Mexico and China. From January-September period of 2018, the country saw a 14.20% rise in export earning i.e. $419.21 million, which was $367.10 million during the same period of 2017. US Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) released the data recently. On the other hand, China earned 1.3% more than 2017 summing up a $683 million export earnings, while Mexico has seen a 1.08% increase in export from 2017 to $595.40 million. Vietnam, a close competitor of Bangladesh in the US market earned 41.95% more i.e. $205.43 million which was $144.72 million during 2017. While Cambodia saw a 30.85% rise in export to $88.34 million.

250 million pieces every year all over the world mostly in the EU and US market. To produce denim products the monthly demand for denim fabric is about 80 million yards and the sector is able to meet about 50 to 60% locally. Rest of the fabrics are imported from different countries.

have seen a strong upsurge in the export of denim products in the markets of the US and European Union (EU) beating its biggest competitor, China. Exported denim products include Blue Denim Trousers WG, Blue Denim Trousers MB, Blue Denim Skirts, Blue Denim

According to the Bangladesh Textile Mill Association (BTMA), Bangladesh currently has 31 denim fabric manufacturing factories, which produce over 400.40 million meters of fabrics every year. In addition, there are around 400 denim product manufacturers in the country. According to people involved in the denim sector, Bangladesh has already made an investment of Tk15,000 crore in

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

According to statistics from the Directorate-General of the European Commission, Eurostat, Bangladesh has earned â&#x201A;Ź917.14 million from exporting denim products to EU countries during January-August period of 2018,

From Bangladesh to the world

H&M

Wrangler

Tesco Diesel

Walmart Levi's

Uniqlo Gap

Hugo Boss

G-Star s.Oliver

H&M

D T- E d i t o r i a l

Blue Denim Trousers WG Blue Denim Jackets

Sun suits

China is the largest exporters of apparel goods in the world. The trade war between these two giants has brought a number of orders for Bangladeshi denim manufacturers.

a result, EU and USA buyers are moving to Bangladesh for sourcing denim products.

After the announcement Exported of Trans-Pacific denim Partnership products Blue Denim Playsuits Trousers MB (TPP), US include retailers wanted to go to different manufacturers for Blue Denim Blue Denim Suit Type sourcing apparel Skirts Coats MB goods, rather than Bangladesh. However, they changed their decision after US president Donald which is 4.23% higher from exports Trump dismissed the idea of earned in the corresponding joining the TPP. period of last year.

Experts said that Chinese products are becoming costlier due to the rise in workers’ wage. As the trade war between China and the US is a62

On the other hand, Bangladesh has increased its production capacity in both denim fabrics manufacturing and other denim products. The Bangladeshi manufacturers have also moved to introduce latest technologies for improved quality of products. In recent times, Bangladesh has seen the establishment of state of the art denim fabrics manufacturing plants, which has increased production capacity. This has helped to attract more work orders from the US and EU buyers.

Bangladesh government is setting up the ‘Sheikh Hasina Specialized Jute Textile Mill’ in 34 acres of land at Kamariya Char in Madarganj. The factory will be able to export 4,32,000 dozens of denim pants every year. Besides, 2,13,40,00 gauze of denim and other fabrics can be produced, which can be supplied to the garment factory of the country at a reasonable price. However, it has more demand of denim products and fabrics but we are supplying less right now. For the scarcity of own raw materials, technological inefficiency, efficient port services, and skilled manpower the sector is facing several challenges. To overcome the remaining challenges local millers are trying hard. However, at the same time, the Bangladesh government has to prioritize the denim sector and provide maximum support to the entrepreneurs.

The ability to supply denim fabrics at a competitive price has helped the country to gain great global market access. The growth of denim in terms of production, export, and investment marked a 30-35% rise in the local market over the last three years as almost all major textile producers have been producing denim especially since 2005 after the withdrawal of the quota system. Denim is a fabric made of cotton twill that is 100% cotton and very comfortable. This fabric is used all over the world to make jeans, jackets, shirts, purses, bags, and many other accessories for men and women of all ages. Reasons behind the growth Improved technology in fabrics manufacturing, improvement of safety standards in the apparel sector and the trade war between China and the US are the main reasons for Bangladesh’s steady growth in exports earnings. In the EU and USA markets, Bangladeshi denim products are doing much better for its quality and competitive price rates. In recent time, production cost in China and other countries have gone up due to a wage hike. As

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There is no such unified, safe and secure sector in the world other than Bangladesh. That is why, Alliance for Bangladesh Workers, a platform of American buyers has certified Bangladesh as a safe place, which also boosted buyers’ confidence for sourcing products from here. The US is the single largest importer of clothing products and

Latest technology

Safest workplace

threat for the US importers over duty imposition. Bangladesh is benefitting the most from this trade conflict. At the same time, while China is shutting down factories due to a rise in pollution so, ultimately these work orders will go to Bangladesh, Vietnam or Cambodia. Conclusion

Quality products in competitive price

Figure: Strengths of Bangladesh denim sector.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

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Volume 11, Issue 12

House 8/B, Road 2/B, Sector 11 Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh E: info@smengineering.com.bd C: +8801713046817

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D e n i m To d a y

Bangladesh’s denim washing and its fashion scenario Abir Basak Washing is the most prominent vertical growth sector in Bangladesh. Day by day, its popularity is going to apex. That is why investors are coming forward to grab this business opportunity. If we look at a few years back, we can see this sector stood in the poor basement. There was not enough expert and educated personnel in this section literally. Foreign expert, especially from Turkey, directed to the country’s wash department. They did not want to flash the working procedure and recipe with local staffs. However, that weird situation has been changed a lot gradually. Many exportoriented washing plants have been developed and are developing. Local experts are grown with vast knowledge who are bouncing this trendy sector now. Wash is popular in jeans If we think about jeans, the first

color ‘blue’ comes in our mind, especially in denim. However, in addition to blue, various types of colorful or faded jeans are also on demand. These variations come after washing usually. One of the most important parts of the creation of the beautiful denim jeans is the washing.

Engr. Maidul Islam Morad, Wash Technician (R&D) of Elaine Apparels Ltd (JHR Group) said, “The real magic of jeans is wash. The washing habits that currently underway include an enzyme, dip dye, acid wash, stone enzyme wash or random wash and reactive, disperse, dischargeable dyeing. These washed clothes are worn by young age boys and girls. Usually, stone, enzyme, vintage or towel wash in jeans pant are seen frequently. Medium and acid wash are run in the shirt. To make the difference in the belt loop, it is set slantwise in many pants. Apart from this, it is seen the difference in the coin pocket shape. Top or bottom jeans, there are stylish magic with the warmth of winter.” Nowadays, different types of eye-catching wash bear extra

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

Transforming Human Capital

Accredited by The Textile Institute, UK

Title : Introduction to Modern (Knit) Dyehouse Management Total course length : 4 days (24 hours) Date : 1st, 8th, 15th & 16th February 2019. Time: 9.00 AM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5.00 PM Md. Hasib Uddin

Modern management of textiles and the coloration industry. Implementing efficiency in wet processing processes and facilities

Chairman APS Group

Laboratory support and technical services. Colour assessment, measurement and management. Sustainability and 3R. The management system & reporting. Dr. Mohammad Abbas Uddin

Practical demonstrations of best practices.

Assistant Professor BUTEX

Founder & CEO

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Manager-Industry Engagement & Sub Editor Mobile: 01734 211 085

Supported By:

Giant Business Tower Level # 12, Jasimuddin Avenue, Sector â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3,Uttara, Dhaka-1230.

D e n i m To d a y

products has been increased significantly. As it is available to get fabrics from local, attires are sent quickly and buyers want exactly this,” Mredha continued. R&D culture

dimension in the denim fashion world. Washed clothes are being gotten extra importance to the western and eastern generation. Generally, the demand for washed, faded, bleached, soft, torn denim remains as skyscraper than solid denim. Not only denim, but washing is also being done in normal woven or knit attires. So, based on this growing demand, buyers are going to make more washed clothes. Why Bangladesh is ahead in jeans making Currently, denim clothes are being made from 300-400 garment factories here in Bangladesh. According to the Bangladesh Textile Mill Association (BTMA), Bangladesh currently has 31 denim fabric manufacturing factories. But yet, denim is imported 40-50 percent of the demand. However, traders said that the country’s three to four new denim mills will start their production soon. The way forward of Bangladesh in jeans is because of the ‘wash’, through which dark and light shades of denim cloth are brought. The thing is that jeans without washing are worthless. To wash, garments are treated with chemicals and with big machinery. After, the washing process is done with the sandpaper or with the help of laser. Cheap labor, low gas price, available water drawing the foreign buyers and investors towards Bangladesh. The factories here make each of the quality jeans at an average of nine to fifteen dollars which is very 104

affordable for the buyers. Levi’s, Diesel, Wrangler, Replay, Hugo Boss, G-Star Raw, Lee, Pepe, Tommy & Hilfiger, Jack and Jones, Calvin Klein, H&M, Uniqlo, Gap, Tesco, Walmart, JC Penny, LPP, Debenhams, Zara, Kmart, Sears, Decathlon, Guess, Gucci, Lidl, Espirit are among the world’s best brands of jeans and almost all of them make their jeans from Bangladeshi factories. Denim shirts, jackets, and kids’ garments are also made as well. Mahbub Mredha, Head of R&D (washing) of Tarasima Apparels Ltd said, “Earlier we had to import denim fabrics but now our locally produced fabric quality has been improved a lot and capacity also increased. As a result, worldfamous brands are now making high priced unique designed & washed jeans from Bangladesh.” “The number denim production mills are increasing in Bangladesh apparently and export of denim

It is an important part of washing to go forward towards innovation. Besides, it is such a place where any employee can showcase his/ her level of creativity. To attract the buyers, the factories show their new product, style and innovation usually but still maximum designs are provided from respective buyers. That indicates Research and Development (R&D) section is not much developed yet. There are some factories like Bitopi group, Nassa, Beximco, IDS, Denimach, Envoy etc. has their own design studio where local and foreign designers develop exclusive samples. So, if the local manufacturers emphasize R&D and effective innovation, profit margin could be increased. Number of washing plants We can undoubtedly say that the number of washing factories in the country is far more than ever. Good quality washing factories have been developed in the combination of modern equipment and in working friendly environment. Out of them, many factories received LEED Platinum certificate and got accredited from different renowned buyers. Every year many plants are being developed with advanced

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

D e n i m To d a y

“Damage and destroy the look of denim is more trendy to men. Currently, denim’s trendy vintage look (old look) is more popular. Fashionable various printed designs of denim products are available in the market,” he added.

technology. According to the information given by Bangladesh Garments Washing Technologist Foundation (BGWTF), more than five hundred washing plants are spread over the country. But the numbers of registered plants of organization (2016) are 255. Thoughts from fashion houses about trendy denim Although it’s a whole year phenomenon, the demand for denim products has increased

Asif Iqbal, Fashion Designer of a local fashion house O2 said, “Due to the popularity among young people, the variety of washing is being done nowadays. Especially in winter, it has seen more variety of denim clothings. Young people are wearing top and bottom-wise denim clothes.”

much before the coming of winter. Mohammed Pavel, Manager of ‘Freeland’ a local popular fashion house said, “Straight, narrow and slim fit- these three types of denim styles are now popular among the young generation. Regular jeans are now being mostly replaced by super skinny jeans and stretchable tapered jeans. Nowadays jeans is becoming popular with girls because of its stretchy nature, comfortably etc.”

Do you want to be a Join the Foundation Training on

Factory Skills Development (FSD) & become the future leader as Wash Technologist

FSD Courses

The government and garment sector entrepreneurs have set export targets of US$ 50 billion from the garment sector by 2021. But it is not possible to reach this target only by exporting lowend garments. So, manufacturers have to go forward to produce high value-added and fashionable products such as denim. And there is no substitute for washing to look appetizing fashionable denim attire.

Certified Wash Technologist

Options

Date

Time

Denim Development & Manufacturing

Mandatory

18th, 25th January & 1st, 2nd February

Garments Washing & Effects

Mandatory

26th January, 2nd, 9th & 16th February.

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Textile Fibre, Yarn & Fabric

Optional

16th, 23rd February & 2nd, 9th March

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Quality Control & Inspection

Optional

12th, 19th, 26th & 29th January.

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Sustainability & 3R (Reduce, Reuse & Recycle)

Optional

9th, 16th, 23rd & 30th March

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Printing Design & Development

Optional

8th, 15th, 22nd & 29th March

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Partcipants have to take 4 courses from above 6 for being Certified Wash Technologist.

Transforming Human Capital

NORTHERN TOSRIFA GROUP

D e n i m To d a y

What will be the denim trend of 2019? Md Meherul Islam (Sohel) DGM (Fabric Technology and Sourcing), Kenpark Bangladesh 2018 is almost over, so it only makes sense to start the New Year with denim trends that you will actually want to wear more than once. Analyzing the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strategy for 2019, it is seen that all are focusing on green denim products. Based on denim fairs all over the world like King Pins, Bangladesh Denim Expo etc. I am going to give you a comprehensive idea about what will be the 2019 denim trends! Key trends of 2019 1. R aw material and process sustainability Sustainability is still the key message from the show. Very highend supplier to competitive one everyone is offering the sustainable product in terms of Sustainable Raw material or the process.

A. Recycled or upcycled of cotton B. R ecycle polyester. Mainly Repreve by Unifi C. Refibra (Tencel with upcycled cotton scrap) by Lenzing D. K itotex Vegal (sustainable sizing Materials) from Candiani Denim E. Relast Stretch (recycle elastane from ROICA, Japan) by Candiani F. H YPNO (PP and Hypochlorite replacement bleach replacement) from Rudolf G. L aser Friendly Fabric by ORTA, Candiani H. Sustainable Method of dyeing

106

by water and energy savings.

process.

I. S titch and ship (No wash) concept from Neela Denim

B. E co Made Cool max and thermolite.

J. 5 Zero concepts from Jenologia (No manual scraping and grinding, bleach, PP spray, Stone, discharge)

C. T rue Tem365, Tru Dry, Tru Touch, Tru Colo by Unifi from Recycled polyester.

K. E arth color and Advance denim dyeing from Archroma. 2. Sustainability combines with functionality

D. T ru Touch polyester is a cotton hand feel filament polyester, which hand feel is really good in Unifi sample. 3. Selvedge denim

This is one of the uprising concepts, how sustainability club with Functionality and give the customer more comfort. A. F ibre Dyed Modal from Lenzing with TrueTone recycle Polyester, which gives a Forever color concept. At this moment supplier like Naveena, Cone is mainly showing the Black color. But another color also can be done. Lenzing is providing nine colors at this moment. Fibre dyed modal and True Tone polyester both are claimed to be sustainable due no dyeing required in post process as well as polyester is recycle. And Modal production is also done by the sustainable

It seems selvedge denim trend reborn once again. Lots of suppliers (kurabo, Cone, Tatfung, Arvind, Artistic, Candiani etc.) showing selvedge.

And it has been mixed with modern denim concept like stay blue, stretch, sustainable etc. and with a different construction of Rigid and stretch. 4. Color denim Once again after a slow trend, lots of suppliers showing color denim in garment dyed form, as well as Sulphur/indigo look reactive yarn dyed. Foison and Bossa show a wide range of PFD for garment dyeing with different fiber blend. Arvind shows their Sorbet concept to have yarn dyed look by PFD garment dyed. And Kurab shows

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 12

D e n i m To d a y

6. Printed denim Printed denim started slowly picking up once again, stared with stripe denim. Mill like Foison, Tatfung, and Kipas showed a good collection and print. But more subtle in design and color.

their Prime blue concept where fabric can piece dyed but will end of with yarn dyed look.

7. D obby inspired denim for tops and jackets Lots of dobby inspired denim

intage salt and pepper looks still 8. V running with some lower note Vintage salt and pepper looks continue with a modern denim modification like the softer handle, sustainable dyeing process, and high stretch. 9. Functionality in denim’s continues Arvind and Vita have shown Graphene denim as a very new concept which is still under development process, as still test data to be validated.

5. T encel and Modal blend soft handle denim Along with ladies wear soft denim, suppliers are showing men’s heavier wt soft handle denim, which is blended with Tencel and modal.

Cone and Unifi show a wider variety of functional denim yarn with the sustainable concept.

Do you want to be a Join the Foundation Training on

Factory Skills Development (FSD) & become the future leader as Apparel Merchandiser

FSD Courses

has been shown for Tops and Jackets along with lightweight twill and chambray. Arvind, Prospeirity, Tatfung, Neela, Kipas etc is very good at it. And the same concept develop with Indigo in both warp and weft has given and nice Japanese trend in it.

Certified Apparel Merchandiser

Options

Date

Time

Apparel Supply Chain Management

Mandatory

22th, 29th March & 5th, 12th April

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Apparel Marketing

Mandatory

15th, 22nd, 29st March & 5th April.

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Product Development

Optional

11th, 18th, 25th & 27th January

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Industrial Engineering

Optional

29th, March, 5th, 12th & 15th April

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Production Planning & Control

Optional

5th, 11th, 18th & 20th January

4.00 PM- 8.00 PM

Quality Control & Inspection

Optional

12th, 19th, 26th & 29th January

9.00 AM- 1.00 PM

Partcipants have to take 4 courses from above 6 for being Certified Apparel Merchandiser.

Transforming Human Capital

NORTHERN TOSRIFA GROUP

D e n i m To d a y

Denim goes greener through the whole weaving value chain Desk Report Prosperity Textile acting as a pioneer and choosing the first sustainable innovation in the weaving industry: the brand-new iSAVER™ by Itema A new important partnership marks the path of Itema towards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim producers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainableoriented Itema technologies,

iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, is able to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficiency, cost reduction, and energy saving. Just consider that the weaver will

of the Itema R95002denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding userfriendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving. A joint eco-driven path Itema, understand very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop

Figure 1: Itema R95002denim.

iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Vietnam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the latest Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, futureoriented approach. Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable innovation, as one of the first denim producers able to successfully turn – even the weaving production – green.

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gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 every year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine every year – the 3% of the total raw materials – will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers. Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features

breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a revolutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric. This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main denim producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-the-art denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018.

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What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products highquality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sustainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain. Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manufacturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement, and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management. The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denim, with less water and energy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9%, and 5.4% respectively. In this continuous process of improvement and contribution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role. The recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cuttingedge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company. Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric processing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers. Itema at DTG 2019 Itema is exhibiting at DTG Dhaka (Hall 7 / 510) from January 9th

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Figure 2: Itema iSAVER.

– 12th at BICC – Bangabandhu International Conference Centre in a joint booth with its sole agent in the country Pacific Associates to get in touch with the Bangladeshi textile industry and deliver its technological and customer approach highlights. The Italian based Company will showcase its absolute worldwide best-seller, the Itema rapier machine R9500. The R9500 on the show, courtesy of the Itema Customer Well Group based in Chattogram, will exhibit a shirting fabric which represents one of the most produced in the Bangladeshi weaving mills. The Itema’s target is to demonstrate to the industry the textile superiority, the real production performances and the excellent efficiency of the R9500 when it comes to weaving the widest range of fabrics, including shirting, apparel, and fashion fabrics. DTG is for Itema the perfect stage to allow the Bangladeshi weavers to experience first-hand of the advanced weaving technology and the worldwide Itema references, in what is defined as one of the future leading countries in the woven fabric production. In fact, despite garment is a major industry in Bangladesh the biggest amount of fabric required is still imported from other countries. In this landscape, the future development of the weaving

industry represents one of the main potential sectors for the growth of the Bangladeshi textile industry. Itema positions itself as a reliable partner – and not only a simple supplier – for textile companies, providing best-in-class, made in Italy weaving machines along with real-time after-sales service, highly professional training for the weavers and integrated textile consultancy. Itema is uniquely positioned in the market to offer textile manufacturers the top three weft insertion technologies – rapier, airjet and projectile, OEM spare parts, upgrade kits and a the dedicated online shop MyItema for the historic brands now part of Itema – Somet, Sulzer and Vamatex, plus highly professional trainings in 6 worldwide locations. Itema, as a customer-oriented Company, wants to give to the Bangladeshi textile entrepreneurs a valuable option in the market and features a solid organization in the country, relying on a trained and professional locally based team of technicians. The Italian representatives of the Company along with the Bangladeshi Itema dedicated team will be at DTG to meet the industry players, to listen to their needs and to show them the multiple possibilities and advantages that they could get by dealing with Itema.

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Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

D e n i m To d a y

Absolute Denim to switch 100% of its production to aniline-free* indigo dyeing FT Research Team Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that Thailand-based Absolute Denim will be the first denim manufacturer to switch 100% of its production to anilinefree* indigo dyeing.

addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols), it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.

Absolute Denim is a Thailandbased denim manufacturer producing high-quality denim with a focus on eco-friendlier materials and processes. The company can produce up to 2 million meters of denim per month (that’s approximately 1.5 million pairs of jeans!), for customers that include some of the biggest brands and retailers in the world.

liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans. During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In

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The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30

Archroma tested Denisol® Pure Indigo at Absolute Denim mill in Thailand. Archroma wanted to be sure that the new indigo dye would perform exactly the same as

conventional indigo. James Carnahan, Head of Sustainability at Archroma, comments: “At Archroma we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable - but we cannot do it alone. Without forward-thinking manufacturers such as Absolute Denim to consciously adopt these eco-advanced innovations in their daily production, like our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo, we will not be able to move this industry forward on our resourceconstrained world we live in. As consumers are increasingly aware of, and concerned about, climate change and ecological threats, this is not only the right thing to do - it is also good for business.” “Deep down inside most of us want the world to be a better place for our loved ones and for future generations,” insists Vichai Phromvanich, Board Member, Absolute Denim, “starting with how we live, what we eat, what we wear, still trying to be cool, fashionable, still trying to be environmentally conscious. Archroma’s aniline free indigo project is, therefore, something we as a new generation manufacturer have supported from the beginning, by opening our doors for tests in the project phase, and now by sending out our articles to many of our customers. For us, after all, a nice pair of jeans looks even nicer without aniline!”

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Denim hubs decline as a new tier of jeans suppliers arise The demand for jeans remains strong as U.S. imports of denim apparel increased 7.87% worth of $3.24bn compared to the same period in 2017 where Bangladesh shipments to the U.S. rose 12.78 percent to $481.41mn FT Research Team Denim hubs have experienced declines as a new tier of jeans suppliers arise. China and Mexico have posted minor increases so far this year, while countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh, Cambodia, and Pakistan are bringing in orders. Western Hemisphere countries like Colombia, Guatemala, and Nicaragua have also seen consistent gains. U.S. jeans imports from China rose just 2.91 percent for the year through October to $790.89 million worth of goods, compared to the year-ago period, while

shipments from Mexico inched up 1.61 percent in the same timeframe to $679.41 million. Imports from both countries have only increased slightly as the countries face disruption in U.S. trade policy. In order to mitigate risk in their supply chains, the countries have had to shift sourcing plans. Tariffs have caused China to lose a majority of its jeans market share to other Asian nations. Vietnam saw shipments to the U.S. rose 46.16 percent in the last 10 months to $248.95 million, while Bangladesh saw shipments increase 12.78 percent to $481.41 million.

Figure: Bangladesh shipments of denim products to the U.S. rose 12.78 percent to $481.41mn in 2017.

Countries

Shipments (Value in $MN)

% increase compared to the year-ago period

China

790.89

2.91

Mexico

679.41

1.61

Bangladesh

481.41

12.78

Vietnam

248.95

46.16

Pakistan

206.05

12.52

Cambodia

99.08

27.49

India

31.35

44.59

CAFTA countries

116.37

7.37

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Other Asian suppliers seeing gains include Pakistan, with imports rising 12.52 percent to $206.05 million; Cambodia, with shipments up 27.49 percent to $99.08 million; and India, posting a 44.59 percent hike to $31.35 million. Meanwhile, suppliers are also taking market share from Mexico since they have the same attributes of quick shipping times and duty-free trade because of the Central American Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA). U.S. jeans imports from CAFTA countries rose 7.37 percent in the 10 months to $116.37 million worth of goods.

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Fashion and Retail

20 fashion companies to dominate the world’s fashion industry in 2019 Desk Report Just 20 companies will make almost all of the industry’s profits in the upcoming year, according to the new report on the state of fashion in 2019 produced by the management consultancy firm McKinsey & Company and media outlet The Business of Fashion. Mainly these companies lead the global fashion industry right now, according to the McKinsey Global Fashion Index. These companies account for 97% of global economic profit in the sector. The top three companies, Inditex, LVMH, and Nike, which have more than doubled their economic profit over the past 10 years. McKinsey noted, “According to our estimates, each racked up more than $2 billion in economic profit in 2017.” The findings are derived from the McKinsey Global Fashion Index

Figure: Among the top 20 companies, those will dominate the world’s fashion industry in 2019, many of them are in the luxury segment.

(MGFI), which tracks financial development across six price segments in the sector, and looks at more than 500 public and private companies globally. Inditex, the parent company of Zara and the yet unreachable

Profit made by McKinsey’s “Super Winners” in 2017 Inditex (Zara)

$4.01 billion

Nike

$3 billion

LVMH

$2.33 billion

TJX Companies Hermes H&M Richemont

$1.97 billion 1.35 billion $1.28 billion $1.07 billion

Ross

$1.06 billion

Adidas

$1.06 billion

Kering

$0.94 billion

LBrands

$0.88 billion

Pandora

$0.87 billion

Fast Retailing (Uniqlo) Next

$0.78 billion $0.71 billion

VF Corp

$0.65 billion

Luxottica

$0.63 billion

Michael Kors

$0.6 billion

Gap

$0.54 billion

Hanes Brands

$0.5 billion

Burberry

$0.45 billion

fast fashion success story, generated more than $4.01 billion in economic profit in 2017. Nike followed with nearly $3 billion, and then LVMH with $2.33 billion. TJX Companies, Hermès, H&M, Richemont, Ross, Adidas, and Kering rounded out the top 10. In addition, from there, L Brands, Pandora, Fast Retailing, Next, VF Corporation, Luxottica, Michael Kors, Gap, Hanesbrands, and Burberry closed out the top 20 groups, McKinsey noted. The global fashion business is becoming increasingly polarized. Among the top 20 companies, many of them are in the luxury segment. McKinsey said, “By segment, we also continue to see polarization, with luxury and value advancing and mid-market players falling behind. Companies able to differentiate on price point/efficiency or brand have performed best.” “The most resilient winners included luxury, sportswear, and fast fashion players, reinforcing the point that brand investment and operational efficiency are key drivers of sustainable business models,” the report said.

Data: McKinsey Global Fashion Index, “The State of Fashion 2019”

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Youth gets momentum on entrepreneurship Staff Correspondent Youth School for Social Entrepreneurs (YSSE), a youthled non- profit organization, has organized “Bangladesh Youth Symposium 2018” in association with “Textile Engineering Department” on the premises of Green University of Bangladesh (GUB). Prominent economist and former governor of Bangladesh Bank, Dr. Atiur Rahman was the Chief Guest of the event where Founder & CEO of Textile Today, Tareq Amin spoke at the program as a resource person. The speakers at the program engaged with future entrepreneurs to inspire them to work in the social entrepreneurship arena. An “Elevator Pitch Challenge” was arranged to encourage the audience to engage more. The sessions had been arranged particularly for the youth society to let them have a clear understanding of the basic requirements of entrepreneurship, the strategies to follow while starting own venture, the tactics to market a new product/service in the market and the hurdles an entrepreneur faces in his/her path of success. “Engaging youth in entrepreneurship and make them aware about the advantages and solutions of obstacles of selfemployment”- was the theme of the event. The resource person Tareq Amin gave his valuable speech where he appreciated the initiative and highlighted the significance of social entrepreneurship to bring a bigger change in the society. He expressed his wise words, “Nowadays, everybody thrives to

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO of Textile Today, spoke at the program as a resource person.

Nowadays, everybody thrives to be established without putting the time or the effort that is required. However, you must remember this: no pursuit can be successful without hard work and persistence. Tareq Amin, Founder and CEO, Textile Today

be established without putting the time or the effort that is required. However, you must remember this: no pursuit can be successful without hard work and persistence. To build your own business, you have to do your work with persistence.”

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“Do not run after money at the beginning, just follow your strength and work on it; and these will lead you to become a renowned entrepreneur and successful person,” he concluded. With the success of Bangladesh Youth Symposium (BYS) at EWU, IUB, BUET, DIU and Primeasia University, and GUB, YSSE has decided to step forward with the flag of BYS to spread entrepreneurial spirit among the youth in different institutions in the country. Bangladesh Youth Symposium 2018, is the initiative of YSSE which is to be organized in more than 20 educational institutes throughout the country with the purpose of making a remarkable impact on the student’s mindset about self-employment and introduce themselves with the new era of business while exposing the brilliant minds of respective institutes who are already running a business of their own and aspiring to grow bigger.

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Fashion and Retail

Importance and understanding of fashion trend for a merchandiser It is a big advantage for a merchandiser to remain up-to-date on fashion trends as it helps him/her to influence customer and create more business opportunities Mohammad Nurul Alam, Senior Merchandiser, Asmara BD Pvt. Ltd., Dhaka, Bangladesh The choice is independent in the mind of consumers for buying clothes changes frequently. As influenced by some external factors and by society. Fashion experts always give focus to find the fashion trend where a garment merchandiser try to depict the changes in the final product. Fashion marketing environment, which has a great influence on both the buying and merchandising team. Here the bridge of understanding between buyer and merchandiser can help soaring growth in the business. What is the fashion trend? There are many influencing factors in the fashion trend which makes the fashion industry a fastchanging sector among the mass and particularly in the mind of a young generation. Mostly fashion trend depends on influential characters in movies, sports icons, high profile and prominent cities of the world. The four major current fashion capitals are acknowledged to be Paris, Milan, New York, and London, which are all major influencer on global fashion.

Courtesy: Bendigo Art Gallery

merchandiser, then this is most important for the merchandiser to understand the current fashion trend. Otherwise, he will be unable to meet the customer’s demand that really depends on the fashion trend. How to stay up-to-date on the fashion trend •R eading fashion journals and magazines. •U tilize online resources. • Attend professional events. • Look into fashion shows.

The way a merchandiser needs to understand the fashion trend?

•U nderstanding the changes in buying power.

The major four cities Paris, Milan, New York, and London that influences immensely in the change of fashion trend are all headquarters to the greatest fashion companies. So a big fashion company wants to understand the changes come in fashion so that they can, later on, display the same type of fashion products in stores. As the products to be made by a garment

•K nowledge of new invention in technology, science, and engineering.

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•M ore communication with customers. •C losely working with fashion related people. •C onvincing customer to visit and buy from top of merchandising concept and trends. •F requent visit to expo on

Machineries, Fabric, Chemical and trade fairs. • Monitor trends on social media. • Visit big-box retailers if possible. • Visit local fashion houses. Advantages for a merchandiser to remain up-to-date on the fashion trend It is a big advantage for a merchandiser to remain up-todate on fashion trends as it helps him/her to influence customers. Customer may not be all the time concerned about the current trend rather he/she can be focusing on other factors that may not be good in the market for sale. If a merchandiser can forecast the most saleable product for upcoming trend then customers will be happy and plan to buy a product from him. The forecast can help the customer to pick the correct product for his market. The product also will be unique that can get a good price from the retailer. Other advantages – •T o inform customers about the ability of product range.

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Fashion and Retail

•T o be unique from any other business competitor.

Merchandiser is not a fashion designer

•T o build a good business relationship with the customer.

There is a big problem for a garment merchandiser that he is not a fashion designer so he may not all the time understand the fashion trends. Sometime fashion designer may not consider cost involvement for a product. So a silent conflict always exists between merchandise and his fashion designer. The easy way to solve the problem is proper coordination with his designer and keep focusing on product development. The merchandiser has to emphasize the right cost that can be effective for good market price.

• To get a price benefit. • Create more business opportunity. Understanding trendy product development For good product marketing development and investment on presentation of the product can play a big role in business growth. Presentation on most recent fashion trend influences a buyer to place an order. Merchandiser can arrange a range of quality fabric and lucrative style for focusing on the ongoing trend. The collaboration between the merchandiser and his designer really important in this regard. He also needs to stay up to date from the technical experts.

Merchandiser, no time for extra work Generally, the merchandiser can be overloaded with the present

workflow, so there is not much time for him to remain updated with the fashion trend. Which leads most of the garment merchandisers to feel working on fashion trend is an extra work and solely focusing on the task on his desk only. But for a good and efficient merchandiser, this extra work can make him extraordinary in the industry. Conclusion Buyers and merchandisers have had to adapt to the continuous changes in the fashion-marketing environment, which includes difficult economic factors, the speed of fast fashion, the growth of e-commerce, and unpredictable consumer behavior. So, the relationship and areas of collaboration between a buyer and merchandiser are vital to keep the focus on the fashion trend.

‘DEGUMMING-2018’ seminar creates bridge between corporation and academia Desk Report aamra and Lectra SA, France jointly organized a seminar called “DEGUMMING-2018” on December 9, 2018, at Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX) auditorium, which served as a bridge between corporate and academic institutions. The event, which was hosted by Prof. Md. Abul Kashem, Head, Dept. of Apparel Engineering at BUTEX, included dignitaries Prof. Engr. Mashud Ahmed-Vice Chancellor- BUTEX; Prof. Dr. Moshiur Rahman Khan, Faculty of Textile Fashion Design & ApparelBUTEX. Professor Md. Abul Kashem inaugurated the event by welcoming everyone to the seminar. The special guest Engr. Shafiqur Rahman, Managing Director of Hams group, explained how technological development can bring revolutionary changes. Sohel Ahmed, Chief Operating

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principles. Prof. Engr. Mashud Ahmed expressed his deep appreciation to aamra and Lectra for this unique initiative and revealed: “This initiative will be a remarkable moment for the apparel world Figure 1: Distinguished guests participated in the ‘DEGUMMING-2018’ seminar. of Bangladesh.” Considering this initiative as an Officer of aamra resources ltd, extraordinary day in the history has enlightened about aamra of BUTEX, Prof. Md. Abul Kashem company, and the vision and declared 9th December as the mission of the company. official Apparel Day. On the other hand, Shamim aamra believes that this type of Masudul Haque, Head of seminar will not only develop Fashionology division of aamra the future leaders of the resources Ltd. and Brand Manager apparel industry from the root of Lectra in Bangladesh introduced level but also equip them with “Lectra 4.0” and explained how the necessary skills required “Lectra 4.0” can meet new to transform the future of challenges through new software Bangladesh. and equipment which are already compatible with “Industry 4.0”

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21 clothing companies awarded Export Trophy for FY16 Staff Correspondent

A total of 21 apparel, textile and garment accessories companies were awarded the "National Export Trophy" for their outstanding contributions to the national export earnings in the fiscal year 2015-16. Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina on Sunday handed over the National Export Trophy-2016-17 to the winners at a function at Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel.

Islam Mohiuddin were also present. In collaboration with Commerce Ministry, the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) organized the program to recognize exporters’ contributions to the country’s economy through exports.

earnings have seen nearly 20% growth, which will continue to grow, he added. The trophy is a recognition to the contributions of the business community to the national export as well as economy. In future, we are hoping to widen the area, he said. Company name