Factory Tales November 2018 by Textile Today

November 2018 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 43 to 60

w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

Mithela Textile the first-ever LEED Platinum certified woven dyeing factory in the world

How ACS turns or “IfTextiles Germany sustainability into Turkey can do such profitability?

amazing thing then why can’t we?”

Hasib Uddin

Chairman APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.

How sustainability practices help Envoy Textiles Limited to go on top.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s - E d i t o r i a l

Feeling delighted internally and externally Tareq Amin Most of the business failures are mainly the result of communication failure as relationships fails for failed communication. Communication is critically important not only for external stakeholders it is critically important for internal people also. Medium to large sized textile and apparel companies and groups in Bangladesh have 5000 to 60000 employees which is enormous. One can easily understand the importance of internal communication to this enormous number of people working every day for the company. When Textile Today has been creating awareness on the importance of brand positioning and communication many companies asked why do we need this? As the factories are not selling the goods to consumers, why consumer awareness would affect them? Why they need to invest in branding and communication? Today there are few companies who see the benefits out of it and could secure a reliable position in the minds of their buyers and external stakeholders. But the best benefit they achieved is the confidence and reliability from the internal stakeholders. If someone compares two managements- a motivated and proud workforce of 60,000 people and a demotivated and confused workforce of 60,000 people, one would understand easily how the second managementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life is! When people inside the company take the ownership of the company it reduces risk and improves productivity of all aspects of the company operations. Every moment

Bangladesh Textile Today |

the employees themselves do branding for their company. A positive culture spreads all around and eventually the company achieves very good brand value to the external stakeholders also. Employee turnover is a great headache for such a gigantic workforce. If the company has good reputation and reliability to the internal people it can become a brand as good employer as well. Employees take pride on the company. But engaging and encouraging internal people are not easy. A dedicated focused effort needs to be taken to build this. A strong internal communication system is important for this. But it is more important to have external communication strategies. Branding and communication activities of a company to the external stakeholders have a great impact on the internal stakeholders also. A positive awareness on the company to the society comes back to its employees and vice versa as mentioned above. So, when a best practice story of company is covered by media and it reaches to thousands of external stakeholders it not only improve reputation of the company to those people it also gives huge boost to the motivation of internal people. While under Factory Tales section, Textile Today has been exploring best practice stories, we understood that many internal people of the company were not aware about the great thing their own company was doing. The people who are directly involved in setting global examples they themselves were not aware about the impact of their great job.

Volume 11, Issue 11

Due to the inside stories revealed by the Factory Tales Team of Textile Today many people working in those companies internally and many people working with the company externally could realize their roles in setting local and global best practice examples. Some of such stories have been revealed in the November 2018 issue of Factory Tales of Textile Today. We have revealed for the first time in media that a Bangladeshi company Mithela Textile is the first-ever LEED Platinum Certified woven dyeing factory in the world. The issue also revealed exemplary sustainable practices of ACS Textiles and Envoy Textiles. The current issue of Factory Tales by Textile Today includes three special segments- Special Supplementary on Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals, Processing Today and Apparel Today. For the first time FT Research Team has revealed that a Bangladesh company APS Group is setting a great example in reducing water consumption in exhaust dyeing of knit fabric. APS has set a new benchmark in water conservation. All these stories not only improve the reputation and brand value of these companies globally. These are also every moment going to make all internal stakeholders proud and motivated. So, FT media coverage is making many people delighted internally and externally. Today I am also feeling delighted to see the effect and impact of our new initiative Factory Tales- Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel. Be connected, be delighted!

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An initiative of Textile Today

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Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...

The Team Tareq Amin Founder & CEO Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator SN Abdullah Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Research & Development

‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and explore positives and significant stories from sites of the industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video contents will be developed to highlight & promote best practices; product and process development stories; social and environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturing companies.

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Engagement & Communication

Major Factory Tales Services are Nizam Uddin Shipan Head of Design and Branding

Brand Strategy Making (Identity & Positioning) Best Practice Story Building

Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing

(Marketing/Branding Story)

Brand Manual Making

(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand Materials and Websites)

Photography & Videography

(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)

Brand Communication- PR Services Yeasin Mia Graphic Design

Ashraful Alam Cinematographer

Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer

Riasad Rion Sr. Executive, Web & IT

Amenities of Factory Tales

Identical position in the industry

Buyer and consumer loyalty

Vantage in price negotiation

Employer Branding

New business possibility

Robust & sustainable business

Award on best practice

Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com 25 A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh Tel: +88 02 55093682 Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748 Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com

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Green Manufacturing

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Mithela Textile the first-ever LEED Platinum Certified woven dyeing factory in the world

Mithela Textile Industries Limited (MTIL) has been successfully certified by the US Green Building Council for “Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design” (LEED) as the only green woven dyeing factory in platinum category. FT Research Team Bangladesh is the role model in the world for green industry and Mithela Group is a green and clean industrial model for the 21st century. A sister concern of Mithela Group, Mithela Textile Industries Limited (MTIL) is world’s first LEED Platinum Certified Green Textile factory in Bangladesh, established with world-class excellence in 2016 in Narayangonj. If a factory wants to pursue LEED certification, then it has to earn points across several categories. Based on the scores achieved, a factory then can earn one of four LEED rating levels: Certified, Silver, Gold or Platinum which score ranges are systematically 40-49, 50-59, 60-79 and 80 to 110 points where Mithela Textile Industries Limited secured 91 points. The world’s highest-rated green denim, knitwear, washing and textiles mills are all in Bangladesh. Of the top 11 LEED Platinumcertified factories, eight are from Bangladesh. So far, 67 garment

Figure 2: Azahar Khan, Chairman of Mithela Group and a Director of BTMA.

factories have achieved LEED certification. Of them, 17 are platinum rated and 37 are gold rated. Another about 280 factories are under the process for LEED certification. “Achieving the LEED Platinum certificate was not that easy, we had to go through a lot

Figure 1: Mithela Textile Industries Limited is the world’s first LEED Platinum Certified Green Textile factory.

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of hardship, challenges we’ve overcome and finally we did it. We have built a solid reputation and market leadership in this short span of time and over the foundation of quality, timely delivery, and top-class services,” said Azahar Khan, Chairman of Mithela Group and a Director of BTMA. With their superior mechanical equipments including one Osthoff-Senge Singeing m/c from Germany, one continuous bleaching m/c from Germany, GOLLAR Mercerizing m/c, MONOFONGS Thermosol Dyeing m/c, KUSTERS Pad Steam Dyeing m/c, MONOFONGS both gas and oil heated Stenter, two Warping, one Sizing and one Gas Generator with 1350 K wt. etc. for making different series of 100% Cotton Poplin, Twill, Canvas, RibStop, Satin, Sheeting, Cotton/

Green Manufacturing

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Azahar Khan further added. Here the light and heat reflecting roof, air ventilation system, daylight, and machinery are the most energy saving. Another cooling feature we have is marvel stone floor. It saves traditional energy process like natural gas and electricity to tune about 68%. Its caustic recovery plant recovers about 90% of caustic soda used in mercerizing of fabric. Finally, MTIL is a factory model that could be followed by other factories of Bangladesh, especially those wanting to be sustainable and green.

Figure 3: MTIL produces the finer quality of fabric by using top-notch machinery.

Spandex Fabric which is made by Solid and Printed as per buyers requirements. The output reaches about 3 million meters each month. Mithela Textile Industries Limited has a futuristic design studio to show their new fabrics and real dummy samples to the buyers. This design studio is helping them to draw the attention of potential buyers easily. MTIL strictly confirms the ultimate reusable, recyclable and renewable principle. From its auto rice mill, they sources hash to generate steam from the boiler to provide to the factory process. This has enabled to expel the consumption of natural gas to the tune about 20,160 cubic meters every day. “Protection of the environment is our main operating philosophy and we are committed to

MTIL LEED Platinum score details Area of consideration

Obtained score

Sustainable sites

24 out of 26

Water efficiency

8 out of 10

Energy & atmosphere

33 out of 35

Material & resources

6 out of 14

Indoor environmental quality

10 out of 23

Innovation

6 out of 6

Regional priority credits

4 out of 4

Efficiency in water uses is another major feature here. They have 24 cubic meters capacity biological ETP where 50% of these water is retreated through ALTRA filter to reuse in dyeing, the rest 50% is a channel to irrigation and fisheries. It reduces consumption of water by about 55% as compared that often identical but non-green project.

protecting the environment through every move of our actions. The certifications will provide further impetus to the company’s sustainable journey and help it stand out from the competition,”

Oeko Tex-100, OCS and BCI accredited Mithela has world’s most sensible machinery to produce finer quality woven fabrics to supply directly to apparel manufacturer and to act as a latency fabric source for buyers and brands all who operate in the international markets across Europe, America, and Australia.

Figure 4: A snap of beautiful production floor at Mithela Textile Industries Limited.

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Sustainable Manufacturing

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

How ACS Textiles turns sustainability into profitability? ACS Textiles is a 100% British investment established in 2004. It is a name emblematic of trust and superior quality in Home Textiles. As a state-of-the-art composite manufacturing facility with weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing, and packaging services, all offered under a single expansive roof, ACS stands as one of the largest of its kind in the industry. FT Research Team ACS Textiles BD Ltd is an awardwinning environmentally conscious company, the company sets sustainability practices as the core of the business. The company found sustainability as profitability in different magnitude. Recently the company became first ‘Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals’ (ZDHC) contributor from Bangladesh to use their expertise to help create and develop ZDHC standards, tools, guidance, and training. Stockholm International Water Institute (SIWI) Award 2016 also awarded the company for outstanding achievement in sustainable water management and certificate of participation. While minimizing environmental impact, the company succeed to lower its cost of operation. Recently they received the GRS certificate

for their successful footprint in recycling.

to reduce further consumption by 45% up to the year 2020. The measures are described below-

Energy management to reduce electricity usage The company is minimizing its total energy consumption significantly. In 2017, they saved 37.07% of energy and set a target

1. T he company replaced fluorescent tube to LED tube light, already installed 4500 pcs of LED lights. 2. F or proper utilization of ‘daylight’, the company installed UV protecting fiberglass sheets. That eventually turned off 456 pieces of LED lights nine hours per day. 3. T hey have already replaced clutch motor by Servomotor in the sewing machine. Total 654 pieces of servomotor are installed that save up to 152064 KWH energy. For efficient electricity control, they have installed 60 pieces of PRI sensor that saves up to 21600 KWH of electricity per year. To reduce

Figure 2: Mission statement board of ACS Textiles Ltd.

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Sustainable Manufacturing

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

installed 3 sets of condensate recovery systems, thus about 90% of feed water for the boiler is reused at 85~94 degree Celsius, saving on consumption of water, chemicals as well as gas for burners.

the energy consumption in the office Air Conditioning system, they have installed three pieces of inverter controlled Air Conditioner with ECONAVI technology, which saves 50-60% Energy. 4. T he company also plan to install 300 KWh capacity solar panel by 2020 that will allow the company to reduce the carbon footprint significantly. Also, they have planted 900 trees in factory premises and the above measures in total reduce 72% of CO2 emission by September 2018.

They also have installed a heat exchanger in the exhaust of 5 generator engines for supplying hot water to the fabric dyeing section, thereby saving about 4 tons of steam that would have otherwise been required for the heating of water. One more waste heat recovery boiler is being ordered for utilizing heat energy from 4 more gas generators. In the dyeing machine, they have installed heat exchanger, drained

Unused surplus and wasted sewing thread are sorted by color wise for reusing and spare threads are converted to solid color by in-house yarn dyeing facility.

Till 2017 they minimized 14.91% of water consumption and set a target to reduce 20% within 2020.

Till 2017 they have saved 34.57% of heat energy and set a target to save 40% within 2020.

Figure 5: Caustic recovery plant.

The company is converting pillowcase from waste cut pieces by in-house facility and finally rejected/wasted cut pieces are delivered to Dipu Enterprize (waste contractor) for recycling. All attendance register, leave register and others are maintained by software documentation and internal communication also conduct by mail instead of memo, and wasted papers are sent to Sonali Paper Mills for recycling by Rahat Enterprize (Waste Contractor).

Water and ETP Management

Process and heat energy management

Caustic recovery plant has been set, which can save up to 98% of caustic soda from the mercerizing process. This could save up to 330000 m3 of water per year. That means 66000 kWh energy saved in 2017. This process allows less TDS on ETP and less environmental impact and economic benefit for ETP management. The company has

reduce 49% within 2020.

Figure 4: Exhaust heat exchanger.

hot water after dyeing is supplied for pre-heating of feed water circulating through coils fitted in the feed water tank where latent heat of condensate is utilized. Waste management for ensuring reduce, reuse and recycle (3R) Till 2017 their 3R process reduced 5% of wastage and set a target to

ACS has established 24/7 fully functional biological ETP plant with Joseph EGLI Italia for ensuring efficient water and wastewater treatment by advanced biological treatment, water and wastewater reuse by membrane filtration and composting of biomass. The company is also harvesting a huge amount rainwater in the rainy season. In August and September 2018, they have harvested 624000 liters of rainwater. The company employs over 6000 people and average daily production capacity is 30,000 pieces of superior quality textile products. The products have found their market in European countries such as Italy, France, and the UK also in Scandinavian Europe with its design studio in Sweden for famous brands like HEMTEX, H&M, Sainsbury’s, Loblaws, Bed Bath N’ Table, Sodahi, Dorma, Laura Ashley, Hoie, Adiras, Descamps and Dunel etc.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

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Green Manufacturing

How sustainability practices help Envoy Textiles Limited to go on top. FT Research Team Denim is a fast growing industry in Bangladesh and Envoy Textiles Limited (ETL) is a renowned and leading denim factory of the country. The factory is practicing sustainability in a different way and it is the first denim mill with rope dyeing technology in Bangladesh, received -2017 HSBC Sustainable Award. Sustainable Development Initiatives at ETL 1) Commitment to Sustainable Denim Development: Envoy is the 1st LEED Platinum Certified denim factory in the world. It addresses total and holistic ecosystem from the raw materials to finished products as well as it addresses the holistic approach to total ecosystem under its own operational area with stringent practice, incremental investment in machinery consuming less water and generate less Green House Gas (GHG), landscaping, ecological sustainability, sustainable and quality food chain for better health assurance for its workforce and best water use within its area. Our raw material is cotton, chemical, water, and energy mainly. But in each case, we ensure the best practice from the bottom -up. Our cotton comes from sources complying BCI (Better Cotton Initiative), OEKOTEX appendix-6 (finer), GOTS (Global Organic Textiles Standards) and CMIA. And we are going to complete the total procedure to ensure GRS and RCS certifications. This is our first stage of raw materials input where we have tried to ensure every possible

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 1: Envoy is the 1st LEED Platinum Certified denim factory in the world.

standard. Moreover, we have successfully implemented “YESS” (Yearn Ethically Sustainable Sourcing). 71% of our cotton comes from sustainable material responsible sourcing. Our commitment to the quality product never goes unnoticed. Now ETL has become the contributor of ZDHC and committed to DETOX platform. These have ensured the green rated chemicals usage in the process that has admitted the level of impact on the environment and free of toxic chemicals in the product. So, in PURE project launched by GIZ, Germany and LIDL ETL achieved the highest Number in Bangladesh for Chemical Management after stringent evaluation of our chemical handling practices within our factory. Eventually, GREEN PEACE came to our factory to witness the extraordinary practices in the Environmental Management System (EMS) that becomes the part of our culture. The leadership of Envoy Textiles Limited for the Inception has

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ensured capital investment in the best possible echo-friendly machines and equipment. The thrive for the best possible process machines and Environment concern practices gave Envoy Textiles Limited a prestigious position in the world. Due to the best possible setup in Utility machines and equipment, it secured LEED PLATINUM as a first in the world. It secured the 3rd position from CPI 2 in carbon emission performance in the world. We secured one of the best scores in Higg Index 3.0 in Bangladesh. ETL is the first textile Factory in Bangladesh that has upgraded itself with ISO 9001: 2015 and ISO 14001: 2015 certification in the country. 2) Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP): ETL has established an ETP which runs round the clock to ensure that “zero discharges” are taking place in nature. Periodic chemical tests and other regulatory tests are also happening to ensure the quality of the discharged water is not harmful to nature. 3) Co-Generation of Power/

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Green Manufacturing

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

addition, to reuse the heat energy, we are using condensing recovery pump, Co-Generation system, VFD Compressor, which is remarkable,” he continued. “For water reduction, we use the lake for rainwater harvesting and over 30 million liters of water can be stored. Above 80% green chemicals are used at ETL,” he concluded. Sustainable Technologies:

look.

As per ETL management compared to the conventional denim dyeing process, it saves up to: 92% water, 87% cotton waste, 30% energy.

9) Employee welfare & CSR: ETL has established a pediatric ICU for burn injury at Dhaka Medical College Hospital (DMCH). For the welfare of employees, ETL is doing everything for their betterment.

Ozone technology is another term for sustainability which is applied in fabric processing. Save 40-50% water during fabric processing, reduce electricity consumption and reduce the use of chemicals.

Tauhidul Islam, Senior Manager, Compliance, said, “The Company has installed highly efficient and cost-effective biochemical ETP plant considering the water and energy sustainability aspects compared to other methods because of least operation and maintenance cost due to very low chemical consumption, low labor cost, less sludge treatment, and disposal cost as well as ecofriendly.”

Benefits are: Caustic soda is recovered, reduced chemical consumption for ETP neutralization, generation of hot water as a by-product, short payback.

“Instead of fluorescent light, ETL installed LED light, which saves 3% electricity cost. Moreover, we are saving 29% light energy by installing a transparent sheet on top of our production floor. In

As part of their sustainability practice, they arrange weekly meetings, in-house training to increase the awareness of the employees by using different innovative tools and means.

Figure 2: ETL is achieving almost 70% efficiency at its Co-Generation system.

Energy: Generally generator exhausts are discharged in the air as a waste product but they have taken an initiative to use this exhaust as an input for further energy generation. These exhausts are used as a heat source for boiler and chiller. Thus ETL is re-using almost 70% of the waste product with this Co-Generation concept. 4) Rain Water Harvesting: Rainwater of ETL are streamed towards an in-house lake and works as a resource for a fire hydrant and also as a source for toilet flash. ETL also build a separate plumbing system to use the lake water toilet flash. 5) Fish Cultivation: ETL cultivates more than 6 types of fishes in the in-house lake which sometimes also works as a source for food and on the other hand works as a site for angling competition. 6) Eco Park/Pond: ETL has an eco-park and pond within the factory premises with rabbits and duck. More species (like deer etc.) are in the process to come.

To avoid the effects of the hazardous chemical on the environment, they follow the international chemical mixing guideline strictly. And wearing safety equipment’s is a must for the workers.

7) Energy Efficient Building: Most of ETL’s factory shades are made with pre-fabricated reusable material and are designed in such a manner that natural lights can be used to the optimum level. 8) Scenic open space: Overall factory layout of ETL is designed with scenic landscaping and a substantial number of trees, plants etc. are in place to give a greenery

Figure 3: ETL ETP runs round the clock to ensure right quality effluent discharge.

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

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Sterling Group to set up apparel factory in Pabna EPZ FT Research Team Sterling Group, one of the biggest names in Bangladesh’s garments industry, will invest US 15 million dollars to set up a readymade garments manufacturing factory in Ishwardi Export Processing Zone, Pabna. Sterling Classicwears Limited will produce 15 million pieces of garment items and create employment for over 5,600 workers, according to a press release of Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA). Siddiqur Rahman, Sterling Group Chairman, and Mohammad Faruque Alam, Member of BEPZA, signed an agreement on November 1, 2018, in this regard. With efficient management and experienced technical staff, Sterling began its journey with one factory in 1984 and by now it has made a remarkable progress in the global apparel and fashion world

Figure: Siddiqur Rahman, Sterling Group Chairman and Mohammad Faruque Alam, Member of BEPZA, signed the agreement on November 1, 2018. Courtesy Apparel Resources

and the group now consists of 4 units. Currently, it is manufacturing all sorts of woven bottom wears with a production capacity of 62,000 pieces per month; specializing in pants, shorts, barmudas, and skirts. The group consists of 9 companies: Sterling Creations Ltd,

Sterling Apparels Ltd, Sterling Denims Ltd, Sterling Laundry Ltd, Unicorn Sweaters Ltd, Sterling Stocks & Securities Ltd, Sterling Styles Ltd, and Bando Design Ltd. The company is now exporting to major retailers and brands, like Lee, H&M, Zara, GAP, C&A, Benetton and S. Oliver, located in the US, Europe, and Canada.

Epyllion-M&S jointly organize tree plantation campaign to support ‘SDG-13’ FT Research Team Supporting Sustainable Development Goals 13 (SDG -13) ‘Climate Action’, a joint CSR initiative has taken by Epyllion Group and Marks and Spencer, a leading international, multichannel retailer company. They organized a tree plantation program on 25 October 2018 at the industrial zone of Epyllion Group at Sailat, Gazipur. Total 500 different trees had planted by the whole Bangladesh office of Marks and Spencer including Country Head Shwapna Bhowmick; and Ethical Trade Manager, Lydia Hopton. Managing

program including the high officials of Epyllion Group. As we are a UN Global Compact member, we always support Sustainable Development Goals. “Everyone is concerned about climate change, Marks and Figure: Managing Director of Epyllion Group, Reaz Spencer is one of them. Uddin Al-Mamoon and M&S, Country Head Shwapna As a socially responsible Bhowmick at the tree plantation program. organization, both organization expected to take Director of Epyllion Group, Reaz more joint CSR project in future,” Uddin Al-Mamoon; Director of said S.M Nazmul Ahsan, Manager Epyllion Group, Junaid Abu Salay (CSR), Epyllion Group. Musa were also present in the

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Implementing Sustainability

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Everlight & Evershine Enterprise organized a mini-seminar on ZDHC Gateway Staff Correspondent Evershine Enterprise in collaboration with Everlight Chemical Industrial Corporation (Taiwan) hosted a mini-seminar on the ZDHC Gateway aiming to raise awareness and inform end-users on Everlight’s firm commitment regarding the implementation of sustainable chemistry and best practices in the textile and leather industries to protect consumers, workers and the environment. The seminar was held on 23rd October at Hotel –X, Rajendrapur Chowrasta, near Dhaka. Md. Matiar Rahman, Managing Director, Evershine Enterprise, said, “Our mission is to support the government’s economic policies and actively nurturing technological as well as managerial talents, Everlight has engaged in fine chemicals production, facilitating the national economies and social welfare. Through international cooperation and worldwide marketing, Everlight contributes to global harmony and quality of life.” Sazid Rahman, Director, Evershine Enterprise, mentioned, “Evershine Enterprise, established in 1993, has been serving Bangladesh’s textile and leather industries as a faithful business partner for over two decades.” Prashad Pant, South Asia Director (ZDHC Program) congratulated Evershine for joining ZDHC and then he shared the views and objectives of ZDHC. He Said, “Do not confuse ZDHC with only zero discharge of chemicals in wastewater. It is one of the aims of ZDHC and it is more of a holistic program towards chemical management. ZDHC is an initiative for widespread 58

Figure: Sazid Rahman, Director, Evershine Enterprise speaking at mini-seminar on ZDHC Gateway.

approach to Sustainable Chemical Management which includes ‘Input’, ‘Process’ and ‘Output’. In each Focus Area, we establish industry standards and tools for implementation.”

Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) is a Joint Roadmap developed by a consortium of the world’s leading brands to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather and footwear value chain to improve the environment and people’s wellbeing.

The ZDHC MRSL is a list of chemical substances that should be banned from intentionally use by the industry in the production of textile, apparel, leather, and footwear. The ZDHC MRSL applies to chemicals used in facilities that process materials and trim parts for use in the industry, he said.

implementation of sustainable chemistry and environmental best practices in the textile, apparel, and leather and footwear supply chain through collaborative engagement, standard setting, implementation, and Innovative projects. First of all, we should know what we are going to eliminate.” Focusing the working procedures and different tools of ZDHC he said, “ZDHC is a holistic

Prashad said, “Greenpeace challenged the Brands to commit their entire Supply Chain to shift to discharge of Zero-Toxic chemicals across all pathways.” Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) is a Joint Roadmap developed by a consortium of the world’s leading brands to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather and footwear value chain to improve the environment and people’s wellbeing.

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Te x t i l e P e o p l e

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Apparel companies received BSAHRP HR excellence awards Staff Correspondent Bangladesh Society for Apparel HR Professionals observed its third anniversary on 16 November 2018 at hotel Sector Seven in the capital. More than 300 HR, admin and compliance professionals from renowned apparel industry attended the program. Textile Today was the media partner of the event. In the welcome speech, Sirajul Islam Azad, General Secretary, BSAHRP and General Manager (HR & Admin, Compliance), Bitopi Group said, “BSAHRP is now the identity and status symbol for most of the HR, admin and compliance professionals of the apparel sector.” We have emphasized the effective and sustainable training program with the very reasonable cost for all HR professionals of the RMG sector, said Azad. I believe that all HR professionals associate with BSAHRP keep supporting and contributing to its further development, added Azad. On the anniversary program, BSAHRP provided HR Excellency award to some apparel factories including DBL Group, Epyllion Group, Bitopi Group, Youth Group,

Figure 1: Manjur Morshed, Sr. Adviser, GIZ got lifetime award for his contribution of Textile Sector.

and Masco Group. BSAHRP also gave the award to its founder EC members for their contribution of RMG sector. Manjur Morshed, Sr. Adviser, GIZ got lifetime award for his contribution of Textile Sector. Md. Mosharraf Hossain, President of FBHRO said, “It is a special day for me, BSAHRP is one of the best platforms for HR professionals in Bangladesh.” “We need an HR minister for human resource development,” he added. On the anniversary, an MoU signed between BSAHRP & UIU for

Masters Course where BSAHRP members will get a special discount. “BSAHRP is an example of brotherhood, special tribe, and a harbinger of change in the RMG Sector. Very soon, we will update our website, build own office and establish training Institute and in future, we will establish BSAHRP University,” said Nur A. Khan, President of BSAHRP. I hope BSAHRP’s third anniversary is taking on unanimous expectations of HR professionals whose eyes are looking forward to new mission & vision collectively for the largest apparel sector development, added Nur A. Khan. He thanked all the participants, sponsors, partners for supporting the program. At the end of the program, BSAHRP members gave opinions and suggestions for further development of this organization. BSAHRP President, Nur A Khan, General Secretary, Sirajul Islam Azad, Executive member M.A Hashem, Shahin Mahmud answered general queries.

Figure 2: BSHARP celebrated its third anniversary.

The Program was followed by a cultural program, Raffle draw & dinner.

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November 2018 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 61 to 78

RSL-MRSL promise and reality

Why is the industry willing to adapt and pay more for sustainable solutions?

Huntsman is committed to provide sustainable dyes and chemicals

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THE GOLD STANDARD AVITERA® Gold SE, a highly innovative, economical and nonphotochromic element that seeks to revitalize and upgrade the textile industry while setting a new benchmark for non-photochromic yellows applied by exhaust. Tailor-made for a trouble-free exhaust application, AVITERA® Gold SE is our latest innovation and a new benchmark in the nonphotochromic golden yellow market.

AVITERA® Gold SE www.huntsman.com/textile_effects

Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial

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RSL-MRSL promise and reality Rahbar Hossain

Consumers are now very much conscious about using garments. Their consciousness driving the brands, manufacturers as a whole all vendors of full value chain about health, environment, and social safety. To comply with the customer demand,

MRSL is to avoid and control the substances that are used in the textile production processes to the final product and to steer the suppliers towards the production of safe and legally compliant products.

The MRSL differs from RSL because it restricts hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing. So, it could be considered that MRSL is a more valuable tool because it restricts hazardous chemicals earlier in the

Figure: 100% avoid of RSL and MRSL is not possible in a real sense, but it is possible to regulate to an optimum level. Courtesy: business-reporter

today all manufacturers, brands, and retailers have their own Restricted Substances List (RSL) and Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL). It means there are enormous restricted substances which are being used in the textile manufacturing processes that are causing problems and ironically the sheer number of lists often works against their purpose to get rid of hazardous chemicals. Usually, MRSL and RSL lists restrict the use or existence of certain carcinogenic, mutagenic, reproductive toxic, endocrine disruptive and non-biodegradable chemicals and substances in finished textiles and apparels, footwear products, toys, electrical goods etc. What are RSL and MRSL? The core objective of the RSL and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

manufacturing process.

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On the other hand, RSL is a list of hazardous chemicals that are restricted below a certain threshold in finished textile products. Often it is given by the buyers and brands. Recently in his speech in a Textile Today seminar Prasad Pant, South Asia Director of ZDHC informed that according to the UN every 15 seconds in the world, a child dies from water-related disease. Textile Industry is known as one of the most polluting industry. There are lots of factories in the world where the wastewater which is discharged from a textile manufacturing plant is not treated enough to remove all these hazardous substances from going into the river. Chemicals have different impacts on our bodies. He explained that there are

Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial

chemicals which can be the reason for certain death. There are chemicals which can damage skin or cause irritation. There are chemicals which are now known as cancer-causing chemicals. The chemicals which we are producing are not limited to the area where we are producing but it is transported either through the water or through the air to various parts of the world even to the North Pole. Chemicals in the ZDHC MRSL include solvents, cleaners, adhesives, paints, inks, detergents, dyes, colorants, auxiliaries, coatings and finishing agents used during raw material production, wet-processing, maintenance, wastewater treatment, sanitation, and pest control. The RSL governs the outputs (finished product) to protect consumers. The reality of RSL and MRSL Now the question naturally arises, do the lists really helping? Practically it is seen that every buyer or brand, and initiatives like ZDHC have their own RSL and MRSL list which is creating complexity in the value chain for the garments manufacturers. Usually, dyes and chemical suppliers give the MRSL/RSL list to both buyers and manufacturers. Liaison offices of the buyers do their schedule check with the manufacturers. Reality is manufacturers produce a different range of products for different buyers at a time and most of the time they are not able to follow all the category of restricted substances. Supply of chemicals & dyes complying RSL and MRSL is critically important. If dyes & chemicals are not easily available and tracked well despite having interest textile manufacturers cannot comply. The most hazardous category is always in the priority list for both buyers and manufacturers but less hazardous substances are often ignored which pollutes the environment gradually.

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Restricted Chemicals

It is also a conjoint activity which definitely costs a significant amount. But in practical who will pay for this supply chain cleaning activity? Dyes and chemical suppliers say that day by day the cost of sustainable products will be higher. Again, China has great control on dyes and chemical market always, but recently many chemical manufacturing factories got shut down due to change of their government policy which affects the whole supply chain. On 7 August 2018 Textile Today organized a seminar on “ZDHC & Sustainability Implementation in Textile Industry” where ATM Mahbubul Alam Milton, Executive Director of Masco Group said, “Bangladesh textile industry is willing to implement ZDHC, Sustainability, RSL, and MRSL, but still we do not get enough support from the chemical suppliers and other business associates in true sense.” Which actually indicate that textile manufacturers need enough support from chemical suppliers as well as brands and buyers and also they should take the equal responsibility to clean up the value chain. Local government also do not

have the proper policy and MRSL/ RSL list for the manufacturers which also may help them from many certification and testing companies those are operating their activities in this regards which is tremendous costly for a factory. Whatever, this is increasingly important as most major brands are now insisting their stakeholders and partners conform to MRSL and RSL guidelines. Cases to think Some cases for a factory to think which also should be a concern of buyers. •D o you have enough infrastructure to maintain RSL and MRSL? •W hat ranges of products you are producing? •D o you have the necessary expertise to implement an MRSL or RSL? • Do you currently have relationships with the chemical suppliers that have the resources to demonstrate the quality of their chemicals? •W ill you need both an RSL and an MRSL in order to thrive in this new environment?

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial

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Buyers and consumers should support the manufacturers in these cases from the greater angle of sustainability.

4. E thically the apparel manufacturers should be sound to follow RSL and MRSL properly.

Effective ways of managing and following RSL and MRSL

5. R aise the awareness to follow RSL and MRSL at a different level (consumer, buyer, brands, chemical supplier and apparel manufacturers).

1. D yes and chemical suppliers should use the less hazardous ingredients in the final product. 2. An Apparel manufacturer can make a common list of RSL and MRSL for different buyers and brands. 3. The local government, business associations, trade groups, and non-governmental organizations should work together to achieve the RSL/MRSL target, thus save the business and environment.

The American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) have developed an RSL and it identifies the most restrictive iteration of that regulation worldwide. It is updated every six months and the latest version is made available for free to the apparel and footwear industry. ZDHC also developed and

published an MRSL with input from key stakeholders from the ZDHC member brands and chemical companies. This initiative demonstrates leadership and innovation and cuts across cultural and competitive boundaries. Conclusion 100% avoid of RSL and MRSL is not possible in a real sense, but it is possible to regulate to an optimum level. So, in this conjoint activity of cleaning the supply chain apparel manufacturers, chemical suppliers, brands, buyers, end users and also the testing bodies all should take the ownership to make the world more sustainable.

DyStar secures destruction of 3.3 tons textile dyes Desk Report carried out training, analyzed each of the seized product samples promptly, and took action over each infringing product by initiating court proceedings where there was no settlement.

Leading dyestuff and chemical manufacturer DyStar has been successful in securing the destruction of 3.3 tons of textile dyes that infringed one of its patents for reactive red dyes that were detained at Mersin Free Zones following DyStar’s customs application. The specialized Istanbul IP court subsequently granted a preliminary injunction order with the defendant agreeing to and the payment of compensation to DyStar before the court’s final verdict. DyStar informed that the destruction took place earlier than expected on September 18, 2018, as the defendant agreed to the destruction and payment of compensation to DyStar before the final verdict of the court. DyStar has now seized more than 100 tons of products deemed to infringe its patented stock since it introduced an anti-counterfeiting program in 2013. To implement

Your Global Partner

the program Turkey has rapidly become one of the most successful jurisdictions. As part of the enforcement program, DyStar recorded its patents with Turkish customs,

Following this effective program, 50 custom suspension notifications were notified from four customs administrations, of them, DyStar filed 14 court actions for infringement of its patents. A total of seven nullity actions against its asserted patents were received as counter-attacks, and five of these cases have already been finalized – all in favor of DyStar. “We are a global leader in developing and providing new products, which are both cost-efficient and ecofriendly,” said Dr. Ulrich Weingarten, DyStar’s Director of global IP.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Sustainable Reactive Dyes

DYECOL offers sustainable reactive dyes ranges focusing less liquor ratio and RFT Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd is exploring ways that can reduce the environmental impact of our clothes, primarily through the choice and use of materials and processes we use. A key area that has emerged within this research has been the way we dye fabrics, which can have huge impacts on water systems through waste and contamination – not to mention the fact that color is such a hugely important aspect of fashion. Dr. N.N. MAHAPATRA C.Col FSDC (UK), CText FTI (Manchester), FRSC (UK), FAIC (USA) Business Head (Dyes) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD. Thinking about the year 2020 AD and beyond, environmental requirements and related legislation will be the major driving force for innovation in both the dye manufacturing and dye application industries. The pressures on the coloration industry, and for that matter the whole chemical industry, from environmentalists are a disconcerting mix of good sense, passion and in some cases downright nonsense. Out of this heady brew, various legislative requirements have emerged with increasing regularity. In response, the industry has been and is being, forced to become increasingly innovative in order to develop new products and practices that are more environmentally friendly than the existing ones. Shree Pushkar &Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd is an ISO 9001:2008 & ISO 14001:2004 certified company and one of the leading manufacturers and exporters of dyes and dye Intermediates headquartered in Mumbai, India with a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility at Lote Parshuram, Maharashtra. “We are having a product range certified from ‘GOTS’. Our company is enjoying the privileged status of being a Government recognized ‘Export House’ from the last 15+ years. Recently we became a

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure : D. Balasubramaniam, Regional Manager (Dyes), DYECOL (from left 2nd); Punit Makharia, MD, DYECOL; Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Business Head (Dyes), DYECOL, also Consulting Editor of Textile Today at 19th TEXTECH Expo 2018.

bluesign® system partner and a ZDHC contributor.” With a customer-centric approach and diversified product portfolio of Reactive Dyes, Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilizers Limited has achieved an enviable reputation in widely spread domestic and global markets. We have a significant market presence in all demographics catering to the wide range of demands of quality sensitive customers. We value our customer feedback and continuously strive to enrich the customer experience. We are having a strong presence in the Indian market with its versatile ‘DYECOL’ reactive dyes range catering to more than 650

Volume 11, Issue 11

customers in India through an efficient distributing network across pan India. Our products are being used successfully from last 15+ years for dyeing of woven, knitted, terry towel, yarn, hank, fiber and garments products. Our prime focus remains on developing and launching innovative products regularly either for new applications/end-products or resolving problems faced by customers in their existing process or end-products through. Our clientele comprises of global customers from Bangladesh, China, Turkey, Pakistan, Iran, Egypt, Brazil, Nigeria, Mauritius and many more. Shree Pushkar Chemicals &



Sustainable Reactive Dyes

Fertilizers Ltd is one of the leading reactive dyes manufacturers who believe in sustainability, so new reactive dyes from DYECOL range are said to use less water and energy, and decrease processing skills in comparison to conventional dyes, in a bid to tackle environmental and sustainability issues of the textile wet processing industry. The dyes are in highly concentrated and crude form. It is also salt-free reactive dyes. It is called ‘Pure Dyes’. If you dye light-medium to dark shades using this dyes you have to use fewer dyes which means less salt, less soda and less washing and soaping process required. It will result in less effluent load. The new technology has replaced the outdated Vinyl Sulphone dyes and ME (Bifunctional Dyes). It is known as ‘Super Strength Reactive Dyes’. DYECOL SS reactive dyes (the new generation sustainable dyes) They are used for cotton fiber and yarn dyeing, knitted and woven fabrics dyeing. It is widely accepted by the Indian and international market. It is specially designed for exhaust dyeing. It is suitable for light, medium, and dark & heavy dark shades. It is also ‘GOTS’ approved. It is a new range of high tinctorial value, good robustness, extraordinary color value, unmatchable lab to bulk and bulk to bulk reproducibility. It is also very cost effective. Less chance of reprocessing of dyed lots. It increases the RFT percentage significantly. Following are the dyesTrichromy Dyes 1. DYECOL GOLDEN YELLOW SS 2. DYECOL RED SS 3. DYECOL BLUE SS Supporting Dyes 1. DYECOL LEMON SS.

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5. DYECOL PINK SS. 6. DYECOL DK.BLUE SS.

2. DYECOL RED CEFT/DYECOL RED RR.

7. DYECOL NAVY SS.

3. DYECOL BLUE CEFT/DYECOL BLUE RR.

8. DYECOL ULTRA NAVY SS. All the above dyes are known as a dyer’s dream and all are GOTS approved.

DYECOL CELF reactive dyes (superlative sustainable reactive dyes)

DYECOL DR reactive dyes (highend sustainable reactive dyes)

1. A compact range for the complete gamut of shades with excellent reproducibility fastness levels & performance.

1. A compact range for deep and extra deep shades with costeffectiveness, excellent overall fastness, and

2. Excellent compatibility of the trichromatic dyes and excellent reproducibility.

2. Very deep shades attainable. 3. Dischargeable dyes range to cover all gamut. 4. Dyeing temperature 60 deg. and also dyeing with room temperature (40 deg.) with easy washing off. 5. With a low amount of dye. 6. Highly economical.

3. The very high degree of fixation (over 80%) and shorter washing off process save waterless dye in effluent reduced ecological costs. 4. Shade not affected by variation in process parameters. 5. Good penetration and leveling properties.

7. Good leveling & diffusion properties. 9. Meet today’s quality and fastness requirement.

6. Right, first-time performance for cold pad-batch (CPB) dyeing, continuous dyeing, and exhaust dyeing.

10. New state-of-the-art on tone buildup.

7. Shade continuity over longer lengths.

11. High tinctorial strength.

8. High fastness levels and robustness.

8. Short liquor ratio dyeing possible.

12. Top productivity and High reproducibility.

9. Compact flexible engineered molecules with high solubility even presence of salt and outstanding bath stability.

Trichromy 1. DYECOL G.YELLOW DR. 2. DYECOL DEEP RED DR.

10. F luorine chemistry especially high lightfastness.

3. DYECOL NAVY DR. DYECOL CEFT & RR reactive dyes (the all-round sustainable reactive dyes) 1. Robust dyeing system. 2. Excellent compatibility of dyes. 3. High fixation (over 80%).

11. Highest efficiency and productivity at optimized costs. 12. The highest level of the lab to bulk, so automatically boost production drastically (bulk to bulk).

4. Innovative chemistry.

Trichromy

5. High reproducibility and rightfirst-time

2. DYECOL RED CELF.

6. Excellent washing and wet fastness.

2. DYECOL ORANGE SS.

7. Less shading less diluent less contribution to the effluent.

3. DYECOL CHERRY RED SS.

Trichromy

4. DYECOL RUBY SS.

1. DYECOL G.YELLOW CEFT /

DYECOL YELLOW RR.

1. DYECOL YELLOW CELF. 3. DYECOL BLUE CELF. Besides this range, we have a wide range of cost-effective Reactive Blacks along with Royal Blue and Turquoise Blues.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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REACTIVE DYES AND DYE INTERMEDIATES

Chemistry Behind Colors ZERO WASTE MANUFACTURING

DYECOL CELF DYECOL CEFT DYECOL RR DYECOL DR DYECOL SS

ZDHC SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD 301-302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Centre near Udyog Bhawan Sonawala Road, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 063, India MOB: +91 8657 4091 50, PHONE: +91 22 4270 2525 E-MAIL: nnm@shreepushkar.com WEBSITE: www.shreepushkar.com

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Sustainable Chemicals

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Why is the industry willing to adapt and pay more for sustainable solutions? FT Research Team For the wet processing industry, the regulatory pressures continue to pile on. There are ever-stricter enforcement of legislation on pollutant and effluent discharge and even harsher penalties for non-compliant behavior!

system for brands, retail companies and manufacturers from the textile chain who want to communicate their achievements regarding sustainable manufacturing processes to the public in a transparent, credible and clear manner.

In the recent article from ZDHC and Bangladesh PaCT, there is a call for a clearer breakdown of contaminants and chemicals discharge in textile wastewater. 50% and more is because of SALT! There has been growing environmental awareness, the consumer to is now more cautious and demanding to have transparent and promote environmental, socially beneficial and economical viable sustainable solutions. A recent article published 22th Oct 2018 from ECOTEXTILE reinforces this commitment to find and eradicate these hidden sources of hazardous textile pollutants. There are for a long time many rules and regulations set up by Europe and USA, which are playing an important role in

driving sustainability across the textile supply chain: CPSIA - Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act under the US Legislation IPPC - Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control - directive of European Union REACH - Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) is a European Union regulation. Step by OEKO-TEX - certification

Chemicals Discharged to Wastewater

␣ Soaping agents

3% 7% 4% 5% 3% 4%

␣ Others ␣ Dyes 50%

␣ Caustic ␣ Peroxide ␣ Enzymes

8% 13%

␣ Softner ␣ Acid ␣ Soda Ash

Source: Bangladesh PaCT (Partnership for Cleaner Textiles), ‘Feasibility Study for Setting Up CETP in the Konabari Cluster”, TWIC Report, 2016

Bluesign system - a solution to promote sustainable textile production. It aims to eliminate the use of hazardous substances right from the beginning of the manufacturing process. Cradle to Cradle - Innovation Institute, a non-profit organization, administers the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard ETAD - an organization representing the dye and pigment industries to minimize the adverse impact of organic colorants on health and the environment.

␣ Salt

GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standards ensure the organic status of textiles from the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labeling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.

Figure 1: Matex has successfully developed an ecofriendly process that omits salt addition during the dyeing process.

ZDHC Foundation – ZDHC and its roadmap to zero. A nongovernmental environmental organization mainly focusing on areas like MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) & Conformance Guidance, Wastewater Quality, Audit Protocol and Research.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Scan to learn more

Megapro ECO Eco-Friendly Solutions

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www.matex.com.sg R

Megapro ECO Choose Sustainability

Matex has successfully developed an Eco-Friendly process that omits salt addition during the dyeing process. This innovation allows energy efficiency, reduces water consumption and environmental pollution. With Megapro ECO®, a solution to a sustainable and eco-friendly environment is chosen! Strategic Partner

Your One-Stop Solution

Scan to learn more

Megapro ECO

Eco-Friendly Solutions

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Sustainable Chemicals

Can lower prices & sustainability thus really walk together?

Scan to learn more

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Are consumers like you, me and the Fashion/ Megapro ECO Apparel Industry/ Megapro ECO Eco-Friendly Solutions Eco-Friendly Solutions brands willing to incorporate sustainable cost while we source for better products? More recognition should be given to those Figure 2: Megapro ECO® hangtags. industry players who continue to demonstrate competence and Just to name a few, the textile wet a serious commitment to the processing industry and the dye/ sustainability agenda. chemical manufacturers continue www.matex.com.sg

Megapro ECO

Choose Sustainability

Your One-Stop Solution

Strategic Partner

to fight and overcome immense key challenges! And there is a cost associated with it Dye/Chemical manufacturers continue to invest heavily to innovate to remain economically viable by introducing new products which are environmentally and economically sustainable, are able to increase productivity with less use of resources i.e. water savings of up to 50% and more, Energy savings of up to 50% or more, time savings of up to 25% and more. These new products are sustainable but, since there is an additional cost associated with it, the Dye/ Chemical manufacturers hope or rather expect that the industry can share part of these related expenses. The industry, on the other hand, is eager to adapt the sustainable solutions, however, when they realize that it will affect their competitiveness in a cutthroat business environment as well as dip into their profit margins, they become hesitant and prefer often to continue with the traditional/ conventional methods. There is an immense and intense competition in Fashion and Apparel Industry/brands for new products in shorter time intervals with more designs that are attractive, better performance, better quality, lower prices, and instant availability.

The brands could use a differentiating price strategy to establish its product as a highquality product in the minds of consumers and encourage the industry players to adapt a common goal of sustainability. Matex International Limited, a Singapore listed specialty chemical producer has since launched its latest next-generation process solution Megapro ECO® for clean color science technologies. Megapro ECO® enables the dyeing of cotton without the need for salt additions. We at Matex, care immensely for our environment and are dedicated to assisting brands, retailers and industry partners to implement sustainable textile production that meets quality and eco-requirements making efficient use of our limited resources. Matex as a ETAD Member and bluesign® System Partner is

committed to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) to define and continue to work out Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) for the apparel and footwear industry. This latest innovation builds on its polyfunctional dyestuff range “Megafix® RE” cotton/ reactive which enables fabric and garment dyers to conduct low temp 40-degree dyeing. This range similarly targeted Energy Saving and Eco-Friendly conscious customers. Megapro ECO® uses EXISTING dyeing equipment and it significantly helps to reduce water, energy and time-related cost. Importantly with the aim to meet ever stringent environmental regulations like TDS (total dissolved solids), COD (chemical oxygen demand), BOD (biological oxygen demand) and color requirement levels from the wastewater effluent in accordance to ZDHC guidelines, enabling easier treatment and reducing overall effluent cost. Other benefits of adopting a no salt process can include but not limited to savings – •O n buying truck-loads/ transportation of salt. •F or loading/unloading i.e. labor cost related to salt. •O n storage spaces, which can be best utilized for other better economic returns. •A Modern Plant Setup.

Figure 3: Image of Textile Factory.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals

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Huntsman is committed to provide sustainable dyes and chemicals FT Research Team Huntsman Textile Effects is the leading global provider of highquality dyes and chemicals to the textile and related industries. Sustainability, innovation, and collaboration are at the heart of what they do. Huntsman Textile Effects is committed to continuing to play a part in Bangladesh’s ongoing development as a sustainable producer of high-quality textiles and apparel. They use cutting-edge technology to develop solutions and create innovative products with intelligent effects such as built-in freshness, sun protection or stateof-the-art dyes which reduce water and energy consumption. All these go toward meeting the needs of the customers in supporting a more sustainable environment. With a presence in more than 90 countries including eight primary manufacturing facilities in seven countries (China, Germany, India, Indonesia, Mexico, Thailand, and Switzerland) and 14 formulation distribution centers across 12 countries, Huntsman Textile Effects is uniquely positioned to provide fast and expert technical service wherever their customers are based. Sustainability in the spotlight With the passing of the Textiles Bill, 2018, the Bangladesh Government is making a concerted effort to boost this vital sector of the economy. Consumers are increasingly aware of environmental issues, with younger people especially appearing to be more sensitive to how

Bangladesh Textile Today |

products are made. And brands and retailers are recognizing that their sustainability performance has to hold up to scrutiny, but also that it can be a platform for differentiation and growth. Facing up to the water challenge According to a press release, water.org estimates that as many as 4 million people in Bangladesh lack access to safe water. Salinization of the water supply is also a mounting problem due to factors beyond Bangladesh’s control, such as reduced water flow in rivers and sea level rise. Unfortunately, the textile industry is a huge consumer of water. It takes up to 100 liters of fresh water and a very high amount of energy to dye just a kilogram of cotton fabric. Even worse, much of this water ends up contaminated by the salt used to promote dye absorption. This saline wastewater is very difficult to treat. Another factor to consider is the increasing popularity of polyestercellulose (PES/CEL) blends

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for apparel and home textiles. Dyeing such blends is problematic because the different fibers need to be treated separately. With two separate dyeing processes, the overall dyeing cycle is much longer. This requires more dye, more salt and other chemicals, and more energy and water. Standard PES-CEL dyeing processes also use hydrosulphite, which is harmful to the environment and makes wastewater treatment even more problematic. As a major supplier of dyes and chemicals for the textile and apparel industry in Bangladesh and around the world, Huntsman Textile Effects invests heavily in innovations to meet these and other challenges. Said the release. With new color palette, AVITERA® SE is much more effective than before Among the most promising developments of recent years is the AVITERA® range of dyes. Compared to commodity dyes, the AVITERA® SE reactive dye helps mills reduce water consumption

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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals

by up to 50% with excellent reproducibility. These dyes are rapidly absorbed by cotton and its blends. They use less salt during dyeing and less water during the wash-off process. Furthermore, the wash-off process requires a temperature of about 60°C, instead of closer to 100°C for conventional washing-off, which helps slash energy consumption by up to 50% and CO2 emissions by up to 20%. This also reduces cycle time by 25% and therefore improves productivity. New disperse dyes To overcome the challenges of dyeing PES/CEL blends, Huntsman recommends TERASIL® W/WW disperse dye, used in combination with AVITERA® SE reactive dyes. Compared to conventional exhaust PES/CEL dyeing, the Huntsman dyes reduce the dyeing process time by more than 40% and eliminate the need for intermediate reduction clearing. This reduces water and energy use by around 50% while also providing, excellent fastness properties and outstanding reproducibility across the entire shade gamut. Huntsman’s innovation is supporting major trends of the industry The trend for textiles with more functionality continues to gather momentum. The increasing popularity of sportswear and the rapid rise of at leisure (that mix of “athletic wear” and “leisure wear” that is such a hit with the younger generation) is contributing to the growth in synthetic fabrics with builtin rain-, stain-, and sun protection. Huntsman’s technology makes it possible to produce fabrics with these properties using much more environment-friendly processes. Huntsman Textile Effects and The Chemours Company FC, LLC recently agreed to expand their long-term alliance in durable water repellence (DWR). By combining the strengths of both companies in innovation, technical support, and marketing, the expanded cooperation unlocks the full potential to develop

environmental obligations, using fewer resources, and reducing operating costs. Innovative inks

Using these fabrics, apparel companies can penetrate new markets and become more competitive while meeting their environmental obligations, using fewer resources, and reducing operating costs.

As a dyes and chemicals innovator, Huntsman Textile Effects has been a pioneer in the digital printing sector and we continue to develop new solutions in collaboration with the print head and machine manufacturers. The choice of ink plays a major role in inkjet printing sustainability.

and deliver new, sustainable DWR solutions and chemistry. This is a win-win for textile mills and apparel producers. Take sun protection, for example. With our products and technologies, mills can create fabrics that protect the wearer from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays and also meet global standards for safe and sustainable textile production. The fabric is soft to touch and yet durable. Even long exposure to sunlight or multiple laundering will not degrade the protection or fade the colors. Using these fabrics, apparel companies can penetrate new markets and become more competitive while meeting their

Huntsman has an advantage in ink production because of our ability to innovate at the dye level, fully controlling the production of the dyes on which our digital printing inks are based. Huntsman inks undergo extensive physical and chemical testing. We also perform in-house jetting testing and work with equipment manufacturers to ensure the compatibility, performance, robustness, and sustainability of our ink solutions. Incorporating multiple innovations, our industry-leading NOVACRON® XKS HD range helps mills and print houses enhance their efficiency. It delivers superior performance on Kyocera printers, both scanning, and single-pass, and supports the industry transition to inkjet printing by delivering color quality and productivity.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

make The world 

Let’s

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colorful...

Dyestuffs, Scouring Agents & Detergents, Dyeing & Finishing Auxiliaries and Printing Chemicals

corporation Ellal Chamber (10th Floor) 11 Motijheel C/A, Dhaka 1000

Phone : + 88(02) 9515971 Email : colorlink_corp@yahoo.com Mobile : 01711549275

www.clcbd.com



Sustainable Indigo

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Sedo Engineering brings eco-friendly Smart Indigo™ technology for denim industry Usually, blue jeans are dyed with indigo for its fashion DNA that is insoluble in water and therefore cannot be used directly for dyeing. The processes used today consume a tremendous amount of chemicals, which pollute the environment. This high environmental burden should be stopped now. Smart-Indigo™ dyeing developed by Sedo Engineering will significantly reduce the ecological footprint by using electricity instead of chemicals. FT Research Team Sedo Engineering has developed Smart-Indigo™, a groundbreaking technique, which revolutionizes the Indigo dyeing process. This environmentally friendly process gives greater efficiency and savings in time and costs. Utilizing electro-chemical techniques, Smart-Indigo™ produces industrial scale “leuco” Indigo on demand. Why Smart-Indigo™ Every year over 15 billion meters of denim fabric are produced globally. Most of the production takes place in countries like China, India, Pakistan, Mexico, Brazil, Europe, Turkey, Middle East, USA, and Canada.

Figure 1 (L-R): Manfred Mentges, Sales Director, Sedo Engineering; S M Al-Masud, Managing Director, S M Engineering; Herbert Guebeli, General Manager, Sedo Engineering.

to different shades of blue. The famous blue indigo is a powder, which needs hazardous chemicals to make it water soluble for the dyeing process. After dyeing, tons of wastewater containing these

The demand for denim continues to grow. 66,000 tons of indigo powder is needed to produce 15 billion meters of denim fabrics

15%

13%

52%

7% 4%

chemicals are discharged into the environment often without treatment. So, the denim industry needs an urgent solution to terminate or reduce this major pollution problem.

Rest of the world

USA and Canada

Europe, Turkey & Middle East

Mexico & Brazil

India & Pakistan

China

Figure 2: Denim fabric production worldwide.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Sustainable Indigo

Production of Leuco-Indigo

Used power [MJ]*

1. Indigo pigment

Example:

120

6 times less CO2 produces for preparation of dyeing bath

100 80 60

14000 12000 10000 8000 6000

4000

2000 0

2. Caustic soda

Electrochemical dye bath preparation

Chemicla dye bath preparation

3. Water and 4. Electricity

18000 16000

160 140

Ecopoints 97 [Points]*

As a tremendous solution of denim dyeing, “Smart Leuco-Indigo” is produced in an electrochemical process consuming considerably fewer resources than existing methods, using only-

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Figure 5: Savings of Smart-Indigo™

Raw Materials

Electrochemical Equipment

Reduced Indigo 10 until 30%

Indigo Pigment

4. Grid 5. Anode

Electricity

6. Anodic compartment Leuco-Indigo Solution

7. Cationic exchange membrane

Ready to be added in dyeing Baths

Caustic Soda + Water Figure 3: Production steps of Smart-Indigo™

In a fully automated process, the clean Leuco-Indigo is produced, metered and fed directly to the dye bath. The Smart-Indigo™ solution is the most sustainable way to dye denim. Chemical equation: Indigo + 2 e- + 2 Na+ Leuco-Indigo 2 NaOH – 2 e-  0.5 O2 + H2O + 2 Na+

• High sustainability The first machine is successfully in full production since last 1.5 years at Italdenim, Inveruno near Milan, Italy. Here in the figure-4: 1. Feeder electrode 2. Bed of particles 3. Cathodic compartment

3-Dimensional Carbon electrode Outgoing Leuco-indigo

Revolutionary Leuco-Indigo process opens up a whole new range of opportunities-

Outgoing oxygen

• Reduced health hazards • More ecological and economical • Better color consistency and performance • Easy to handle and more efficient Comparison of environmental impact Using electricity instead of chemicals in Smart-Indigo™ dyeing process significantly reduces the environmental pollution and energy consumption. • Less chemically contaminated wastewater • Reduce the cost of ETP • 6 times reduce energy consumption • 10 times less carbon footprint • No transportation ways A Smart-Indigo™ machine produces average 1 ton “leuco” indigo per day. A rough calculation says that the pay-back time of a Smart-Indigo™ machine is about 2.54 years which is incredible.

Ingoing Indigo suspension

Ingoing soda

Among denim manufacturers those who think of sustainability in a real sense, they should go with this Smart-Indigo™ technology.

Figure 4:The carbon electrode

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing Nove mber 2018

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 79 to 96

APS Group sets new benchmark in Bangladesh in water conservation in exhaust dyeing

The design concept of ‘Bulk to Lab’ dyeing

U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s

“Bangladesh steps ahead to replace exhaust dyeing with more sustainable, economical and better quality production CPB dyeing”

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Save Energy Ecological Reduce Emission Environmental Friendly

Global Leader in the Manufacturer of Dyestuffs and Intermediates

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Global Leader in the Manufacturer of Dyestuffs and Intermediates

Liyuansol Classic for Cellulose Liyuansol BLF Series for Better Lightfastness Liyuansol HS Series for Deep Shade along with excellent RFT Liyuansol FL Series for Top Lightfastness (PLF)

We are on our way-

Address: House-11 (5th Floor), Road-07, Sector-12, Uttara Model Town, Dhaka-1230 Tel: +88 01713 027506, +88 01708 539402 Email: dndchem@yahoo.com, info@dndchem.com

Room - 501, Unit-7, Oceanwide International SOHO Town, Huaihai Road, Jianghan District , Wuhan City, Hubei Province, 430000, China Tel: 0086-27-88185025 | Fax: 0086-27-88185276

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P r o c e s s i n g To d a y - E d i t o r i a l

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The design concept of ‘Bulk to Lab’ dyeing Although dyers nowadays rely mostly on ‘Lab to Bulk’ through trial and error basis, it makes things difficult to maintain and achieving RFT resulting an increase in cost. Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed, Head of Technical Support, Taiwan Persotex Corporation Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today Right First Time (RFT) means achieving the desired color and quality in dyeing at once as per the standard operating processes predefined. Most of the cases it’s not easy to match all the batches maintaining RFT as there are numerous factors that affect the performance of dyeing. And that’s why the dye-houses suffer for increasing RFT. When generally prices of processing are going down and the cost is increased when the dyer miss the RFT of the batch that for sure will incur losses for the company. The laboratory has a great role in setting and achieving RFT. Usually, labs in dye-houses are used for generating lab recipes (usually called as Lab Dip), color control, incoming raw materials quality control, in line and of line quality control etc. But for sure generating recipe for dyeing is one of the core objectives of the labs. However, it’s been well accepted that there are potential differences in bulk and lab dyeing conditions and so dyers on the floors don’t rely on the laboratory recipe much. Most of the time the dyeing experts tries to adjust the less reliable lab recipe from their experiences and go through some sort of trial and error process in the bulk for setting a reliable bulk recipe which will give 100% RFT. By this way traditionally the companies try to improve the ‘Lab to Bulk’ recipe and RFT. But such approach has its limitation by its design. The trial and error

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: The need for a laboratory and optimizing it as per production floor in achieving the desired color and quality for a dye-house is critical.

The goal of a lab is to make a better recipe for bulk. We usually say ‘Lab to Bulk’ but the true thinking and the slogan should be ‘Bulk to Lab’. Because the bulk processes should be fixed and standardized. And all trial and error should be done only in the laboratory.

occurring in bulk production, even if those are done in the sample and small machines, incurs a huge reduction in RFT hence resulting in less productivity. A design thinking look on the issue is critically important as a good recipe from the lab is

Volume 11, Issue 11

important for bulk dyeing to increase productivity and to reduce production cost. It is very important to maintain a good dyeing process in the bulk and the process has to be very reliable and easily controllable. The major work to achieve a reliable bulk process has to be done in a lab, not in the bulk floor. There are lots of works which can be done in the lab. A lab has to work very carefully. The lab has some limitations but it is possible to make such a recipe by which bulk production will be closer with lab dip. The goal of a lab is to make a better recipe for bulk. We usually say ‘Lab to Bulk’ but the true thinking and the slogan should be ‘Bulk to Lab’. Because the bulk processes should be fixed and standardized. And all trial and error should be done only in the laboratory. Some important points should be considered to make the recipe better for bulk:

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y - E d i t o r i a l

1. Dyes Combination We know that usually three dyes are combined to achieve a particular shade. Dyes selections for making these dyes combinations should be such that substantively and Reactivity profiles of dyes should be closer. It will make Lab Dip closer from the point of Tone. In most cases, RFT achievement fails due to the tonal differences. As tone wise exhaustion and fixation profiles differ from dyes to dyes, the pick-up and fixation rates vary and so the color building is not synchronized well so color control in bulk operation becomes difficult. 2. Lab Dyeing Temperature Most the time dyeing temperature in the lab is kept fixed. As dye exhaustion and fixation profile vary as mentioned in the point one, it is not necessarily right that all

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dyes reach its optimum level at one single temperature. As color buildup in actual life differs from dyes to dyes, we can vary the temperature in the lab to make Lab Dip closer with Bulk. Generally, dyeing masters vary temperature in the bulk to keep the shade and build right, but the real approach will be to adjust the thing at the lab and at bulk the lab process will be implemented as it is without variations. 3. Sample Weight We can use different sample weight for Pale, Medium and Dark shades. As for the light shades the lab recipes requires really the very low amount of dyes and so it’s not always easy to maintain such precision in weighing and so sample size for the pale shades could be increased. And this approach will reduce error percentage in the lab.

4. Wash Off It is important for the laboratory to do wash off exactly according to the bulk. But most of the time the manual washing process could not be maintained as per the bulk machine wash off processes. And so we should use the automatic machine for Lab Dip washing. It will help to make a better recipe. 5. Maintaining control parameters Material to Liquor (M:L) ratio is critically important if the lab and bulk do not matches the recipe will differ. Bath and material pH has to be matched and maintained as well. Many of the times amounts of salts and soda also are not matched or considered from the bulk to lab aspect. Fabric or material must come from the same fiber lot of the bulk. Dyes and chemicals lots are also should be matched. All other necessary control points should be considered and the lab has to be adjusted according to the bulk conditions.

Certificate achievers of training “Garments Washing & Effects” under FSD training program of Textile Today Training

Transforming Human Capital

Denimach Washing Ltd.

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ď&#x192;ś

Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p

ď&#x20AC;&#x2022;

APS Group sets new benchmark in Bangladesh in water conservation in exhaust dyeing APS Group started the water saving revolution from 2014 for the first time in Bangladesh, now it has become an example to the world. APS dyeing unit average water consumption in per kg fabric production is 40-45 liters (total plant consumption) where, according to PaCT (a project of IFC), the average factory water consumption amount in Bangladesh has been estimated to be around 250 liters of water. Hence the savings in APS (200 litters per Kg) is the equivalent to the daily water use of two people in Dhaka. For comparison, the global benchmark for fabric production through exhaust process is about 100 liters of water per kg. FT Research Team There are lots of confusion about sustainability and how to be sustainable! There are factories in Bangladesh who are already practicing it but even they themselves are not aware on that. APS Group, one of the leading knit apparel manufacturers of Bangladesh doing a great sustainable practice by saving a huge amount of water in knit fabric dyeing which is incredible. Recently FT research Team explored this beautiful story. APS Group is an end-to-end apparel solution provider, started their journey in 1999 and now they have eight sister concerns. With a vertically integrated setup, the incorporation of advanced technology and a proficient management team, APS is emerging sturdily as one of the anterior business entity in the country. Their dyeing unit capacity is daily 31 tons of knit fabric. Once 1:8 to 1:10 liquor ratio was normal for knit fabric dyeing in exhaust process and day by day, it is reduced to 1:5 by machine design upgradation and other facilities. Now, most the dye houses follow the 1:5 liquor ratio. How water conservation in exhaust dyeing is not only about reducing M:L ratio, it is more about developing a process integrating machinery,

APS Dyeing Unit Water Footprint

20 Less than

20 ltr/kg water use for dyeing light color knit fabric

27 About

ltr/kg water use for dyeing dark color knit fabric.

Average

ltr/kg water use for dyeing knit fabric (within dyeing machine) KG

Water saved by APS to dye-finish 1KG of knit fabric

Average Daily water use for two people

Figure1: Water saved per kg fabric processing is compared to traditional factory in Bangladesh.

ltr/kg water in all processes in the plat of APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

ď&#x192;ś When the liquor ratio is 1:5 1st bath = 5 liters 2nd -11th bath = {(5-2)*10} Total water = 5+(3*10 ) =35 liters

ď&#x20AC;&#x2022;

Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p

When the liquor ratio is 1:4 1st bath = 4 liters 2nd-11th bath = {(4-2)*10} Total water = 4+(2*10) =24 liters

For special color & style Water consumption is 22 liters

Figure 2: Straight forward calculation of water consumption inside exhaust dyeing machine considering block rinsing.

Table 1: Water savings in APS Dyeing Unit. Bulk Production (Kg/day)

Water Consumption (only process) Modern Process

Water Savings

APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd (ltr/kg Fabrics)

(ltr/day)

(m3/ day)

(m3/ year)

648945

648.945

194683.5

(ltr/kg Fabrics)

(ltr/day)

31050

1552500

Months

F1 Ground

F5 Rain

F2 Domestic

F8 Domestic

F7 Machine

F4 WTP

F3 WTP

F10

F11

of 2018

Water

& Floor Clean

Backwash

Soft water

ETP

Consumption

Intlet

Outlet

(m3)

May

34842

230

3505.7

360

1053.7

200

29930

28264

28125

June

22715

150

2657.7

572

816.9

119

18687

17812

July

29960

100

4144.6

871

1031.6

152

23843

22720

Aug

25512

3466.4

927

786.6

153

20215

18800

Sep

39344

4536

1043

1089.3

226

32479

31375

Oct

38010

4651.4

1139

1033.6

246

30929

29899

29.1

(ltr/day) 903555

Table 2: Water consumption chart of APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd including garments unit from May 2018 to October 2018

laboratory, chemicals, materials and people in the factory. With an exemplary optimization of existing resources APS has set a new benchmark in water conservation in exhaust dyeing process. For light color, APS process consumption is below 20 liters and for dark color, it is 25-27 liters of water which is very much close to the global benchmark and certainly a benchmark in Bangladesh.

devastating problem of water when their main water source got stuck for some technical problems. At that time their production hampered horribly. Md. Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS Dyeing Unit analyzed with his team that how to reduce the water consumption. And they developed some basic concepts of dyeing and applied some innovative idea. Reducing number of bath, eliminating overflow rinses and unnecessary wash, optimizing outcomes with buyers expectation were key challenges APS could accomplish successfully.

How APS doing it In the year 2014, APS Dyeing Unit faced a

Table 3: Electricity Saving Quantities are saved

Pump Specification

Saving in Operational Hour

Electricity

(m3/day)

Capacity (m3/hr)

Power (KW)

(hour)

KWH/ day

MWH/ month

MWH/ year

Underground water

648.95

7.2

266.8

8.0

80.0

WTP

648.95

8.1

178.5

5.4

53.5

Feeding in production process

648.95

100

6.5

194.7

5.8

58.4

ETP inlet pump

648.95

7.5

10.8

81.1

2.4

24.3

Filter Pump

648.95

7.5

10.8

81.1

2.4

24.3

ETP Outlet pump

648.95

7.5

10.8

81.1

2.4

24.3

883.3

26.5

265.0

Water Saving Areas

Electricity Saving due to less water use in the production process

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p

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Figure 3: A black color fabric dyeing curve shows that 27 liters consumption of water at APS dyeing unit.

Figure 4: Sedomaster Report shows using only 23 liters water to dye per kg fabric.

Water consumption calculation Considering 11 bath and after first filling, usually, fabric absorbs 2 times water of its weight till unload which is always ignored in typical factories’ The average process water consumption (rinsing dyeing machine) at APS Dyeing Unit is about 29 liters (see figure 2). If a modern process consumes 50 liters water (only considering dyeing processes) then water saving per kg fabric is almost 21 liters which is huge. It is not a rocket science, it is just awareness and willingness of being changed. Any dye-house who have exhaust-dyeing process can easily

dye a batch within 35 liters by following this. Water Saving: A typical water saving scenario at APS dyeing unit shown in table 1. Generally, an adult person daily consumes about 150 liters. In that sense, yearly APS saves that much water, which is equivalent to the water consumption of about 1.3 million people in a day! Or you can fill almost 78 Olympic-size swimming pools (Olympic size pools measure: 50m long, 25m wide, and a minimum of 2m deep) with that water. At APS Group, they use water flow meter from groundwater consumption to ETP outlet so

that they can regulate the water consumption properly. Also, they avoid the softener in the dyeing machine which reduces the water consumption and makes the reprocess easier if needed. Energy Saving: Water saving in production process directly saves electricity (see table 3) for extracting water from underground, processing water in WTP, feeding water in the production line and finally wastewater processing in ETP. A rough calculation said that they are saving the almost 27m3 capacity of ETP and also reducing ETP processing cost. APS dyeing unit has a 60m3 capacity of biochemical ETP.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p

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“Our RFT is almost 85% and we are trying to make it 90% by saving the maximum amount of water. We have also ZDHC target by 2020,” said Md. Rashedul Islam, General Manager (Dyeing & Knitting) of APS Group. Furthermore APS is now working how to save more water as like for light color within 16 liters per kg, for dark color 24 liters per kg fabric. They have a strong team, working relentlessly on water and energy saving. The journey of change was not easy. They have faced many vital problems that are directly related to fabric quality and they successfully overcame these. Levelness problem, washing problem was acute and washing problem always naturally leads to fabric impurity. That is why they changed the rinsing process by increasing the washing cycle and reducing water flow in each cycle. “I do not want to confine it within us the process we have developed, let’s think in a more versatile way and hope the whole industry would be benefitted if they really

Figure 5: APS dyeing unit has the latest generation machinery.

think of sustainable business,” said Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS Dyeing Unit. In APS dyeing unit top notch machinery are used. They have Dilmenler and Sclavos (latest generation Athena 3A). In Athena 3A, they use 1:3.5~4 liquor ratio whereas Sclavos themselves don’t recommend below 1:5 liquor ratio, but APS is doing it very successfully and regularly by ensuring quality. Machine operators always play vital roles in any dye-house. So,

they need real support from the management because they are always concerned about the fabric shade matching and quality that leads them to use extra water which is always out of the calculation. Therefore, at first, they should be motivated and facilitated to achieve the organization goal and that commitment should come from the top management. APS has that employer branding amazingly and they are on their target as a team.

Southeast University participates on Higher Education Alliance at WTU Desk Report Recently Southeast University along with 26 other universities formed a new Higher Education Alliance at Wuhan Textile University (WTU), China aims to extend the areas of the collaboration of research knowledge and experience and steps its role to play in the development of textile higher education in the members’ universities. Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, Chairman, Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University signed the Higher Education

Figure 1: Recently Southeast University along with 26 other universities formed a new Higher Education Alliance at Wuhan Textile University.

Alliance on behalf of Southeast University. On his discussion with Director of International Office of Wuhan

Textile University, he requested to award more students from the different discipline of Southeast University.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Te x t i l e I c o n

“If Germany or Turkey can do such amazing thing then why can’t we?” Hasib Uddin, Chairman, APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.

APS Group started new era in the exhaust dyeing process by saving huge amount of water consistently from 2014. Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd. played the pioneer role in the whole journey of this water saving activity. APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd. was established in 2009 and is committed to achieving highest customer satisfaction by ensuring the social compliance and the legal requirement for all facilitates. From the beginning Hasib Uddin leading from the front line to a bigger change of the industry. Let’s hear the story in his words.

Figure: Hasib Uddin, Chairman, APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.

Once we had severe problem of water in the dyeing unit due to some unavoidable technical problems. Fortunately at that time I went to Germany, Switzerland and Turkey to attend some training programs. Surprisingly I found they are dyeing fabric through exhaust process by using very little amount of water. “If they can do such amazing thing then why can’t we?” this question thrust me much to do this kind of activity. This is true that we had urgency but importantly we need mindset to be changed. What I see that in our industry lots of people have that knowledge and potentiality but they do not want to be changed or they just fear to be changed! So, we did dyeing our first batch

of fabric successfully by lowering the water to only 33 liters per Kg . The next day again we dyed two batches which were also successful and finally we decided to start dyeing in all of our machine by following the similar process. But within few days we experienced a quality problem in a batch. We assessed our dye line and tracked down the problem which leads us to develop a data bank which you can consider as the great asset! From 2012 we started to develop our data bank and now we easily can dye any kind of fabric within 15.38 liters to 33 liters for per kg fabric which really a success for us. Eventually the data bank will help you to maintain the quality

consistency and I recommend all the dye houses to develop such data bank. Here in our new generation machine, we only use 16 to 23 liters of water for per kg fabric and it could be any kind of color and fabric. In our conventional machine which has 1:5~10 liquor ratio depending on the loading capacity, we generally use 33 liters and maximum 35 liters of water for per kg fabric. processing inside machine. So, I think any dye house of Bangladesh which even have 10-15 years old machine can easily dye the fabric through exhaust dyeing process by consuming maximum 35 liters water for per kg fabric. Just need to change their mind to launce the process.

Please follow this article ‘APS Group develops the process of reducing water consumption in exhaust dyeing’ to know details of the water saving story. page No.-84

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

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“Bangladesh steps ahead to replace exhaust dyeing with more sustainable, economical and better quality production CPB dyeing” Engr Badruddin Ahmed Rahi, CEO of Trade Ray and Textile Technology Manager, ERBATECH GmbH

Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is seeing a remarkable change in terms of sustainability. A huge amount of water and energy are being consumed during dyeing processes. Profitability crisis and environmental issues are being a great concern for the industry now. Factories here in Bangladesh are struggling to remain competitive, maintaining global stringent compliance requirements, and keeping sustainability intact. However major point is to consider that changing towards sustainability does not make any adverse effect on the quality of the finished product. Exhaust dyeing is a widely used process in Bangladesh where

CPB dyeing is higher quality dyeing method for woven and knitted cellulosic fibers. The process reduces the use of salt, water, energy, and dyestuff, chemical and thus significantly reduces the chemical concentration of effluent. It is needless to say that it facilitates the bacterial treatment effectively.

Cold Pad Batch (CPB) dyeing process was ignored through this long journey of Bangladesh textile industry for knitted fabric. B Ahmed Rahi, CEO of Trade Ray and Textile Technology Manager, ERBATECH GmbH has a 10 years holistic working experience with CPB dyeing as a pioneer. Recently he shared his successful journey of CPB dyeing with Textile Today and urged the manufacturers to use CPB towards a greener world. Let’s hear his story. CPB dyeing process CPB dyeing is higher quality dyeing method for woven and knitted cellulosic fibers. The process reduces the use of salt, water, energy, and dyestuff,

Figure 1: A CPB dyeing machine of ERBATECH GmbH. Courtesy: ERBATECH GmbH

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Needle free space dyeing, No more yarn breakage Steamer

SDS - Space Dyeing Station Small Surface Required Giant Hanks New Effects Low Liquir Ratio Water Saving Time Saving

Customer Reference-

○ Epyllion Fabrics Ltd. (Yarn Dyed)

○ GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd.

House-B148 (2nd Floor), Road-22, New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206 Mob: 01711558828, 01625387580, E-mail: info@traderay.net, rasel@traderay.net Website: http://www.traderay.net

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S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

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chemical and thus significantly reduces the chemical concentration of effluent. It is needless to say that it facilitates the bacterial treatment effectively. CPB dyeing attempts the utmost cost-effective and advantageous approach of dyeing cotton with reactive dyestuffs. The elimination of salt addition also supports the minimum energy and water consumptions; hence rendering it more ecofriendly and fixation of dye is also much higher.

surface area and low amount of effluent. Conventional exhaust dyeing system emits up to 1 kg salt per kg of fabric where no salt is required in CPB. It requires very less electricity and reduces labor cost. After all fabric quality is more improved here than exhaust method. Challenges of CPB dyeing

Figure 2: Engr Badruddin Ahmed Rahi, CEO of Trade Ray and Textile Technology Manager, ERBATECH GmbH.

Robintex Group and Northern Tosrifa are most successful pioneer companies in Bangladesh in using CPB dyeing. And since 2014 many more companies are using CPB dyeing. In the initial stage of CPB dyeing, for kint fabric it was very challenging, so the interested factories had to take consultation and a lot of training to run the project. However, the whole industry was in a learning process but now I think we are strong enough to start dyeing with CPB process. All the chemical and machine suppliers are also developed a lot in the meantime. When I started my journey in late 2007 at Consumer Knitex Limited, I got amazed to see how much sustainable and the easier process can be the CPB dyeing process than exhaust dyeing. At that time a Sri-Lankan, representing for a world-famous brand visited our factory and decided to place his order after check out our settings. That was my start of the journey and through this journey; I found CPB dyeing is more economical and environment-friendly than exhaust dyeing. The method gives you the required fastness standards with ease and minimum costs, and less energy. Features of CPB dyeing In CPB dyeing, material and liquor ratio is 1:1 and no steam is required.

It is not required of salt, hence less TDS in ETP. No anti-creasing agent is required and there is shiny fabric surface without crease marks. It is more lustrous fabric compared to conventional process. It is also suitable for delicate fabrics. Through this dyeing reactive dyes can be exhausted up the maximum. There is no need for enzymatic bio polishing. For occurring less frictionless fuzz is created on the fabric surface and less pressure of effluent in ETP as well. There is high reproducibility and needed minimum re-work and high flexibility in batch size (from color samples up to 1.000 kg batches). In the dye bath, there are water, fabrics, and dyestuff. In exhaust dyeing, 60% to 75% dyes are fixed on fabric; residual 25%-40% dyes got hydrolyzed and could not react with fabric due to higher liquor ratio. In CPB dyeing liquor ratio is 1:1, so the dye pickup is up to almost 95% and so it saves up to 30% dyeing cost. Benefits of CPB dyeing over exhaust dyeing The CPB dyeing has a lot of benefits by which factories can save a lot of resources. It is more sustainable and environmentfriendly and needs the relatively low cost of equipment. In CPB dyeing process it needs less

There are some challenges in CPB dyeing process:

• Is to train people to change their mindset to the practice of semi-continuous processing. • One extra step for drying is needed. • The yarn needs to be free of seed particles and this is not regular in Bangladesh. • Uniformity of quality of yarn and knitting process. Frequently asked questions 1. How to deal with small batches? - CPB can deal small batches even few meters. 2. How to do bio polishing? - CPB process cannot do bio polishing or it is needed since no additional friction is added while processing. The finished fabric itself gets a lustrous effect. 3. How to match lab to bulk and batch to batch shade? - CPB process has got a different concept of the lab to bulk and batch to batch shade consistency since these are mostly an exhaust dyeing issue. 4. How does it work without salt? - Salt is an exhausting agent needed for exhaust processing, it does not have a participation in the dye-fiber covalent bonding. In CPB additional exhaustion agent is not needed since dye bath liquor ratio is 1:1, cold water and longtime dwelling.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y

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Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h

5. New exhaust dyeing machines are also low liquor ratio then how CPB is still beneficiary? - Latest low liquor ratio exhaust dyeing machines are only reducing water not proportionately the number and amount of chemicals. CPB is reducing water consumption along with a significant amount of chemicals and dyestuff. I am certainly not arrogant to claim that by using the CPB dyeing we will be able to maintain sustainability in dyeing process hundred percent, all I want to show that is CPB dyeing is a small step in the right way keeping a better quality of production.

Figure 3: Cold pad-batch (CPB) dye padder from Erbatech in operation in Tosrifa Industries Ltd.

Bangladesh’s RMG exports to India see 167% rise in Q1 Bangladesh’s apparel exports to India, an emerging export destination, have seen a Sharp rise by 167.13% to $145.10 million in the first quarter (Q1) of the current fiscal year. Staff Correspondent According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, export earnings from the readymade garment sector registered a 167.13% growth to $145.10 million, which was $54.32 million in the same period a year ago. Of the total, knitwear products contributed $37.76 million, while woven products earned $107.35 million. July-September period of the fiscal year 2018-19, Bangladesh exports earnings from India stood at $375, up by 142%, which was $155 million in the same period last year. Talking to Textile Today, apparel industry insiders attributed dutyfree and quota-free market access to Indian markets for the sharp growth. While the presence of global retailers in India has opened an opportunity for Bangladeshi apparel manufacturers as they are opening outlets. First Quarter (Q1)

Total Earning

2018-19

$145.10 million

2017-18

$54.32 million

International apparel brands and retailers are opening outlets in India and importing clothing products directly and indirectly from Bangladesh, which created an enormous opportunity for our products. As a result, Bangladesh exports to India have seen significant growth, Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) President Abdus Salam Murshedy told the Textile Today. In addition, local brands and retailers are also importing goods due to price competitiveness as production cost went up caused by the implementation of Goods Services Tax (GST), said Salam, also a Former President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). “A sharp rise in a neighboring country is a good sign for Bangladesh as it would help Rise (%) diversification of markets and reduce 167.13% dependency on traditional markets,

Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) Research Director Khondaker Golam Moazzem said the Textile Today. “As a pro-business government, we are providing cash incentives against export to non-traditional market. While India is providing duty-free quota-free market access for Bangladeshi products,” Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed said the Textile Today. In fiscal 2017-18, Bangladesh’s RMG exports to India stood at $279.19 million, up by 115% compared to $129.81 million in the FY17, according to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data. Of the total amount, Knitwear products earned $71.05 million, which is 89.75% higher than the $37.44 in the same period a year ago. Woven products earned $207.62 million, up by 124.79%, compared to $92.35 million a year ago. On the other hand, Bangladesh’s overall exports to India have registered a 29.87% growth to $873.27 million in the FY18.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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Md Delwar Hossain, Managing Director of D & D Chemicals

Color Root is helping to increase products’ performance and reduce costs FT Research Team Textile dyeing is an integral part of the textile industry. The apparels industry has evolved, particularly over the last 20 years. Use of dyestuffs and chemicals helps the apparel industry cope with changing trends and dynamics such as declining mass production and the increasing importance of colors and serve the changing needs of customers. The global textile chemicals and dyestuff market is driven by a rise in the demand for chemicals and dyestuffs from the apparels industry and the technical textile industry. The global textile dyestuff market was valued at around US$ 5Bn in 2017 and is anticipated to expand at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of approximately 7% from 2018 to 2016, according to a new report published by Transparency Market Research (TMR) titled ‘Textile Dyestuff Market – Global Industry

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Analysis, Size, Share, Growth, Trends, and Forecast, 2018–2026.’ Color Root (Hubei) Technology Co., Ltd. is one of the renowned dyes and chemicals manufacturers in the world. The company is based in Songzi City, Hubei Province in China. It engages in the research and development, production, and sale of textile chemicals. The products of Color Root (Hubei) Technology Co., Ltd. have passed the ISO9001 quality management system, ISL14000 environmental management system and ISO18000 Occupational Hygiene & Health management system; they have also certified by Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) of CU and the ECO-standard 100 certificate of Switzerland in the meanwhile, some parts of products have made the pre-registration for REACH of EU. Most of the products of this company is also approved by

Volume 11, Issue 11

bluesign®. Color Root is also one of the enlisted company of the Chinese share market. The company is mainly renowned for manufacturing reactive dyes. It offers its products to the Chinese and global customers. Chromatol commodities of Color Root are very high-quality reactive dyes that are sustainable and ecofriendly. Chromatol products series contain: •A vinylsulphone and monochlorotriazine reactive group, they are economic. •W ide range of cost-effective dyes for exhaustion (50-60°C), cold pad batch and continuous dyeing •S uitable for resist / dischargeable dyeing •F ull range of shades with brilliant colors •D iversified offer for turquoise/ green and dark navy shades

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Common Liyuansol Series

Liyuansol FL Series

Liyuansol HS Series

Liyuansol FD Series

Liyuansol black Series

Liyuan P Series

Liyuansol C Series

•A unique production facilities for Fluorine dyestuffs. Textile millers can use their necessary Chromatol products from the series. D & D Chemicals is one of the leading textile dyestuff and chemicals companies in Bangladesh, who is working here in Bangladesh as Color Root’s agent since 2012. They have a large range of products to meet the ongoing requirements of the textile industry. The objective of the company is to help customers to consistently increase their product’s performance and reduce the costs. According to the company, they have two separated divisions with its own area of responsibility- one is reactive dyes for cotton and another is textile auxiliaries. All two divisions’ production, sales and marketing and quality control facilities. The individual division’s function is to meet the specific requirement of their markets. Md Delwar Hossain, MD of D & D Chemicals, said about the company, “We have a team of dedicated professionals to satisfy our customer’s demands and we also believe that good people, focused on a shared vision can achieve outstanding results. Our level of achievement testifies to this and we are currently serving

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Dyes Manufacturing

leading Chinese company Color Root was keen to invest about the US $500 million to set up manufacturing plants in Bangladesh. However, the investment went back as they did not get proper support and facilities in Bangladesh.

more the one hundred customers in over the country.” He further added that, “We recognize meeting our customer’s needs is a priority for our success. We provide against our customers with consistent support and new ideas to help them strengthen their competitiveness and performance in their own industries.” “Our business performances are based on a commitment to the quality, continuous service and attractive price and our knowhow and technical expertise. Through technology, innovation and specialized applications, we provide against full package solutions most appropriate for customer’s needs.” Many Chinese and multinational companies are interested to invest and manufacture dyes and chemicals in Bangladesh. Even though dyestuff manufacturing is a large-scale industry and requires huge land and infrastructure,

“Lack of raw materials is a major difficulty in dyestuffs and chemicals manufacturing in Bangladesh. We have to import 95 percent of raw materials from abroad if we want to set up a manufacturing unit in Bangladesh. In addition, it requires some raw materials to produce dye and chemical those are not allowed to import,” he explained. To set up dyes and chemicals manufacturing unit in Bangladesh government assistance is a must. Besides government support, the mindset of dyes and chemicals users in Bangladesh and the mindset of global brands also have to be changed towards locally manufactured dyes and chemicals. “If locally manufactured chemicals can comply with the quality and other requirements then why would we prefer using imported chemicals? Using local chemicals will reduce cost significantly,” said Md Delwar Hossain. “We need around 400 bighas land to establish the manufacturing plant. So Bangladesh government should have a master plan regarding the matter, he concluded.

Figure : Liu Weibin, Managing Director, Hubei Color Root Technology Co. Ltd.; Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today; Md. Asif Hossain, Son of Engr. Md. Abdullahel Hossain Bablu, Deputy Managing Director, Asiatic Group poses after a tour in Color Root Research Center in Shanghai, China.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

Unveiling industry best practices

Apparel Accessories & Fashion N ove m be r 201 8

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 97 to 108

Getting rid of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hidden Factoryâ&#x20AC;?

Scenario of African fashion industry

TWELVE for trendy and gorgeous dresses in winter

Unveiling industry best practices Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

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A p p a r e l To d a y - E d i t o r i a l

Getting rid of “Hidden Factory” Rasel Ahmed Likhon, Project coordinator, EPIC Group The Hidden Factory is a term that refers to non value-added unnecessary activities in an operation or activites out of standard operating procedure (SOP). It reduces the quality or efficiency of a manufacturing operation or business process, but are not initially known to managers or others seeking to improve the process. The Hidden Factory is where the largest amount of money, time and resources are spent that are considered as ‘waste’. The Hidden Factory coexists with the actual, visual factory. What is a Process? A process is a systematic activity comprising of smaller activities that culminate in an outcome (end product). A process can take up time, space, and resources. Categories of Process 1. Value-added: This step in the process adds form, function, and value to the end product and for the customer. 2. Non-value added but necessary: This step does not add value but is a necessary step in the final value-added product. 3. Non-value added: This step does not add form, function, or assist in the finished goods manufacturing of the product. (2.) & (3.) naturally create waste, which causes ‘Hidden Factory’. Types of waste that can contribute to ‘Hidden Factory’ i. Over-Production: Producing more than is needed, faster than needed or before needed. ii. Wait-time: The Idle time that occurs when co-dependent events are not synchronized. iii. Transportation: Any material movement that does not directly

Bangladesh Textile Today |

QUALITY

REJECTS WARRANTY LONG CYCLE TIME LONG SALES LOST CUSTOMER LOYALTY

WASTE

HIDDEN FACTORY

support immediate production.

Effects of Hidden Factory • I n 1977, the quality guru ‘Armand Feigenbaum’ estimated the endeavor within the hidden factory might be 15% to 40% effort of the total company. •R educe the profitability of the company. • I mpact on the competitiveness of the company. • I mpact ability to satisfy the Customers. •P revent the company from achieving the world-class Performance. Hidden Factory in the garment industry The Hidden Factory can be seen to those who look for it. It exists right in front of our eyes. Yet, most of us are blind to its existence and the Hidden Factory continues to eat profits. Signs of ‘Hidden Factory’ in the Garment Industry •L ess production than target due to rework. •C arton audit failure due to unacceptable quality level. •R eproduction of short quantity to meet up shipment quantity. •O ver time working hour of the factory.

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LATE DELIVERY

•R ecruitment of sub-contractual manpower. Example 1 Cause: Unplanned production of short quantity due to damage after washing. Effect: Total cycle of production (spreading, cutting, sewing, washing etc.) need to be done again separately. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, manpower, money, raw material) that required to recover the damage of washing is totally waste. Example 2: Cause: Wrong label is attached to the garment due to the carelessness of operator or miscommunication with a supervisor. Effect: After finding the wrong label in the QI table, the garments are given back to the label attach operator. Wrong labels are removed and correct labels are attached. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The time that required to remove the wrong label and attach correct one is totally waste. Example 3 Cause: Different types of marking, turning, trimming, de-chaining is

 done in the garment industry. Effect: Requires extra manpower and time. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, manpower) used in marking, turning, trimming, de-chaining is totally waste as all these add no value at all. Example 4: Cause: Production of more garments than order quantity due to lack of planning.

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Fast Fashion

Effect: Remain excess garment after shipment.

III. E liminate the cause that feeds ’Hidden Factory’

Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, raw material, manpower, money) to produce these extra garments all are waste.

There are hundreds of ways you can find ‘waste’ in every department; in every process; in every action. It is everyone’s responsibility in the organizational team to find the Hidden Factory in his or her area. If someone finds any Hidden Factory, he or she should expose it and implement solutions that will eliminate the waste.

Steps to eliminate ‘Hidden Factory’ from Garment Industry: I. F ind out ‘Is there any sign of Hidden Factory?’ II. F ind out the root cause of that sign

Fast fashion and low prices are responsible for clothing disposals The apparel industry is a major contributor to waste and carbon use. Recycling charity Textile Reuse & International Development (TRAID) said this. Desk Report TRAID is a charity working to stop clothes from being thrown away. They turn clothes waste into funds and resources to reduce the environmental and social impacts of the clothes. In evidence to the Environmental Audit Committee’s (EAC) hearing on the sustainability of the fashion industry, the trend towards disposable ‘fast’ fashion meant the amount of discarded material had increased sharply in recent years, said TRAID. According to TRAID, some 650,000 tons of clothing were collected for reuse and recycling in 2014, and a survey two years later by the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan found 39% was donated to charity shops. 18% was given through charity bag household collections, 13% brought to textile banks, 7% was sold and 6% of disposed of in general waste collections. It said that if the fashion industry continued to operate under its current model then, by 2050, it could use more than 26% of the carbon budget allocated for keeping within reach of the 2°C

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Figure: ‘Fast’ fashion meant the amount of discarded material had increased sharply in recent years.

average global warming limit. Because of fast-changing trends and low prices a significant increase in clothing purchases is happening. As a result, the rate of discarding, with 1.13 million tonnes of clothing purchased in the UK in 2016, a 200,000 increase in four years. The committee last week called on retailers Amazon, ASOS, Pretty Little Thing and Missguided to give evidence to the inquiry. EAC Chair, Labour’s MP, Mary Creagh, said, “Our recent evidence hearing raised alarm bells about the fast-growing online-only

retail sector. Low-quality £5 dresses aimed at young people are said to be made by workers on illegally low wages and are discarded almost instantly, causing mountains of non-recycled waste to pile up.” EAC Chair, also informed that they would be calling some of these online retailers in front of the committee to answer questions. “But, in the meantime, my letters encourage them to face up to the social and environmental consequences of their business models,” she also added.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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A p p a r e l To d a y

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Scenario of African fashion industry Md. Tanvirul Hasnat Story behind Africa’s fashion crosses the complex designs of the continent’s culture, heritage and her dress. The next big thing is to provide a solution to the potential of Africa to drive the future of Africa and slow economic growth due to rising youth unemployment and increased value of commodities. Sub-Saharan African clothing and footwear market is worth $ 31 billion US dollars. Growing creative ambition in African fashion trends is essential, but poor supply discipline, the lack of international partners and the challenges of inferior infrastructure will be resolved promptly. Cotton, textile and apparel manufacturers in 18 sub-Saharan African countries are backing a new initiative to boost confidence in Africa as a sourcing location and attract new buyers and investors to the region. Effect of African Culture and Beauty on the global fashion scene, the number of non-selected and African descent models has increased significantly, running the runways for fashion’s biggest brands, which featured in leading

fashion magazines and featured among most of the world’s landbreaking advertising campaigns. In 2018, Amitoy Lagum of Uganda and Harith Paul of Tanzania, such as Harith Paul, will see the continual increase in African models of fashion. Although the African market for footwear industry is still young, the continent is heavily involved with raw materials, extraordinary talent and affordable labor, which is the perfect push to

Scopes for having investors in Africa

More Gorgeous Models on the International Scene

An Increase In Footwear Production

An Appreciation of Formal Fashion Training

build an extraordinary footwear industry. Countries like Ethiopia, Ghana, Kenya, and Nigeria lead the revolutionary footprint of the continent. In 2015, Ethiopia has earned more than $ 30 million from the export of shoes, which has achieved ninth place in the leather products industry worldwide. And this is just the beginning. In 2018, we can expect to see further growth from Ethiopia and other African countries, the price of African footwear industry may be likely to rise to $ 1 billion in the next decade. Today, though very few universities across the continent are offering first or master’s degree in fashion, the perception of fashion on the continent is improving as a result of African fashion being increasingly accepted and adopted across the globe. Recently South Africa, a country on the southernmost tip of the African continent, is planning to

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Large population, big market According to UNICEF, there are 1.2 billion people in Africa. The United Nations agency estimatesby 2050 population will be 4 billion. This large market size represents a great opportunity for investors. Fashion brands with proper marketing strategies and creative acumen have a huge market that they can sell.

A p p a r e l To d a y

Alibaba Group collaborates with Fung Retailing Ltd. Desk Report

First Mover Facility

Africa’s middle class is growing

The ﬁrst investor in Africa's fashion industry will be the biggest beneﬁciary of the industry's growth potential seriously. Small and Medium Scale Enterprises (SMEs) make up 90 percent of Africa’s fashion industry, most of who are talented and whose growth has been hampered by lack of capital.

Investors may be ready to invest in the industry, but a thought often lags behind; Feel the kind of product and what kind of services it is. However, with the growth of Africa's economic growth, with the growth of the middle class, investors will not have to worry anymore with more disposable income of Africans.

13+ Increase in minimum wage for textile workers in Nigeria

$31bn worth African Fashion Industry

$65.1bn export target of Kenya by 2023 in woven apparel, knit apparel

Figure : African fashion industry’s present scenario

develop a master plan for the growth of the apparel, textile, footwear and leather retail value chain, targeting creation of 60,000 jobs, according to Trade and Industry Minister Rob Davies. He said that his department is working with Justin Barnes, facilitator for the new automotive master plan till 2035, to come out with a similar plan. The plan may be announced early next year, according to a report in a South African newspaper. Thanks to the upward trend of Africa’s clothing exports, especially thanks to the Bangladeshi investors, there has been a threat to the second position in the world’s clothing

Bangladesh Textile Today |

business. Under the African Growth and Scope Act (AGOA), the United States enjoys duty-free and quota-free access for certain goods with clothing. And among the main reasons for growing garments exports from African countries is one of the impressive Bangladeshi garment makers to take advantage of responsibility under the African Growth and Opportunity Act, or AGOA. AGOA is a piece of legislation that was approved by the U.S. Congress in May 2000. The purpose of this legislation is to assist the economies of subSaharan Africa and to improve economic relations between the United States and the region.

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Alibaba Group Holding Ltd announced a strategic partnership with Fung Retailing Ltd to bring more international lifestyle brands to mainland China at the CIIE in Shanghai on 6th November. The partnership will help global brands tailor their product development and marketing strategies to meet the ever-changing needs of Chinese consumers.

Figure: Left to right- Sabrina Fung, Group Managing Director of Fung Retailing Limited; Dr. Victor Fung, Group Chairman of the Fung Group; Daniel Zhang, CEO of Alibaba Group; and Toby Xu, Vice President of Alibaba Group. Courtesy: Fung Retailing Ltd

In addition to bringing more international lifestyle brands to mainland China, the partnership will better serve global brands by leveraging Fung Retailing’s global portfolio of brands, offline retail channels and marketing know-how, as well as Alibaba’s ecosystem, digital retail leadership, technology, and consumer insights from Alibaba’s over 600 million users. Under the MoU, both companies will join forces in global brand recruitment and offer brands merchandising, marketing and Omni channel distribution services. This collaboration will focus on the mainland China market as a first step, and potentially expand to other regions riding on Alibaba’s platforms, said a release. The partnership will focus on China first, but the two sides said they could potentially expand to other regions served by Alibaba’s platforms.

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Apparel Brands

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TWELVE for trendy and gorgeous dresses in winter Twelve is a popular name right now in Bangladesh’s fashion fraternity. This winter, Twelve is offering trendy at the same time affordable and fashionable clothing’s focused on men and women fashion appetite of ages between eighteen and thirty-five. FT Research Team Winter is always a season of fashion. Men, women of all ages and kids love to wear fashionable clothing’s in this season. Twelve Clothing, a sister concern of TEAM Group offering special winter collection for the fashion conscious people in all their five outlets across Dhaka. Twelve Clothing revealed as a brand in 2012 with their very first outlet at Uttara, Dhaka. With a vision of pioneering the fast fashion culture in Bangladesh by blending ethnic and western fusion. Unparalleled and uncompromising quality, trendy fabric and designs are Twelve Clothing’s unique selling point. With individual clothing line for both men and women, they have come up with a wider range of variety of style and color in their Jamuna Future Park (Level-1, Block- A) Uttara (Jashim uddin Avenue)

Banasree (Road - 9, Block – C

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latest addition of fashion focusing the winter season. From party wear to a casual day out or family program you can find whatever you need according to your fashion appetite. Men’s casual and formal Blazers, Casual Bomber, Denim Jacket and husky jacket etc. are very fascinating. For ladies, traditional Kurtis, Suit Sets, cardigans, Jackets, Dhanmondi (KB square) Sweat Shirts, Denim jacket and Palazzo are very eye-catching.

Mirpur

Fahmid Islam, Chief Executive Officer of Twelve Clothing said, “We have brought trendy, colorful and feasible winter collection for men and

women available in our all five outlets. Sweater and hoodies price starts at BDT 900 and up to 1500. Men’s jacket from starts from BDT 1290, Blazer 4250 and ladies jacket from BDT 1990.” Abdullah Hil Rakib, Managing Director of Team Group said, “I believe, in the next five years there will be a lot more brands and the entire industry will be standardized into an ideal level with the support of the new generation who will lead this industry. So, that is the main theme which pushes us to come up in the industry with a new Bangladeshi brand ‘Twelve’ in 2012.” All outlets of Twelve Clothing are at Uttara (Jashimuddin Avenue), Jamuna Future Park (Level-1, BlockA), Banasree (Road - 9, Block – C), Mirpur, Dhanmondi (KB square).

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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GSM Sample Cutter

Color Matching Cabinet

Electrolux Wascator & Dryer

Whirlpool Washer & Dryer

Warp Reel (Yarn Count Tester)

Yarn Strength Tester ( CSP)

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Warp Block (Sliver & Roving Tester)

Auto Dosign Type IR Lab Dyeing machine

IR Lab Dyeing Machine

Lab Padder Machine

Crock Meter (Rubbing Fastness Tester)

ICI Pilling Tester

Pneumatic Auto Bursting Tester

Digital Tearing Tester

Color Fastness to Ozone Tester

Automatic Lab Dispenser (ODESI-Turkey)

Dye Staff Dissolving & Dispensing System (ODESI-Turkey)

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Our Other Product All type of Lab Testing Instruments & Consumable item from Stock, All type of Lab Washing Machine, Lab Dyeing & Finishing Machinery from Stock All type of Lab Machinery Spares Parts, Yarn Dyeing Project Machinery, & Fabric Dyeing Machine from Turkey

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M.B. Trade Corporation House-57 (1st Floor), Road-14, Sector -13, Uttara Model Town Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh. 01713 461968, 01977379666 info@mbtradebd.com | www.mbtradebd.com

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A p p a r e l To d a y

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Pakistan’s knitwear garment exports surge over 16% in October Desk report The knitted garment sector of Pakistan has maintained a growth in its shipments and led the sector with an increase of 16.13% in its exports where overall textile exports were recorded at $1.13 billion in October, down 0.12% compared with $1.132 billion in the corresponding period of previous year. Central Chairman of Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA), Muhammad Jawed Bilwani said, “Knitwear garment exports grew 10.41% in July-October 2018 against the same month last year so especially this sector has a great potential for expansion.” He expected that the knitwear garment sector can achieve new milestones and its export can be raised by 25% every year, provided the government considers the proposals sought from the sector. Where the size of annual global exports from Pakistan is only around $20 billion but the knitted exports alone earned $2.719 billion in the fiscal year 2017-18, which included knitted products like hoodies, shirts, t-shirts, jerseys,

Figure: Pakistan is the 25th largest economy in the world and one of the few countries where complete value chain of textiles manufacturing exists.

pullovers, trousers, jackets, etc. The sector has ranked high in the textile group over the past three years. Most Exported Knitted Product from Pakistan Hoodies T-Shirts

Pakistan’s annual exports. Pakistan is one of the few countries where complete value chain of textiles manufacturing exists. Pakistan annually produces more than 11 million bales of cotton. The cotton is domestically ginned and then spun into yarn by a robust spinning sector. Bilwani urged the government to consider and set separate electricity tariffs for the five zero-rated industries and introduce uniform tariffs for water consumption as well. Currently, water tariffs for the industries in Karachi were the highest when compared with other regions and provinces. The area of product diversification and branding are also being given due attention. Pakistan is moving towards achieving more market diversification and improved market access.

Jerseys Pullovers Trousers Jackets Shirts Pakistan is the 25th largest economy in the world. Textiles sector is the mainstay of their exports sector, which, together with cotton and yarn, accounts for more than half the total value of

Meanwhile, the PHMA has written a letter to the finance minister, requesting to support the textile industry as it thinks Pakistan has a great chance to go on top in the world.

India’s apparel exports slumped by 26% in Sep Desk Report According to data released by Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics (DGCI&S), Kolkata, India’s garment exports fall by 26% in September due to higher input cost and lack of favorable trade agreements for major global markets. Exports of readymade garments of India declined sharply in September 2018 worth Rs 7968cr compared to Rs 10705cr in September 2017. The decline is a shock to apparel

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Pradesh (UP), who blame it on high input costs. Production costs in the northern hubs are high compared to other competing countries.

exporters of India, particularly from Punjab, Haryana and Uttar

Overall, India exported readymade garments worth Rs 35860.16cr in April-July 2018, and during April-July 2017, India’s apparel exports were to the tune of Rs 39857cr.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11

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from f ield to fashion

Sales Inquiry +88 0184 1166 233 amran@maksonsgroup.com.bd www.maksonsgroup.com.bd

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A p p a r e l To d a y

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Apparel exports to new markets rose by 42% in July- October of FY19 Bangladesh’s apparel exports to non-traditional markets have seen a sharp rise by 41.81% to nearly $2 billion in July-October period of the current fiscal year. Staff Correspondent According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, during July-October period of the fiscal year 2018-19, Bangladesh has earned $1.88 billion exporting clothing products to nontraditional markets, which is 41.81% higher compared to $1.33 billion in the same period a year ago. Of the total amount, woven products earned $940.20 million, up by 53.78%, which was $611.41 million in the same period. While knitwear products fetched $950 million, which is 31.66% higher comparing to $721 million a year ago. Talking on the export performance in non-traditional exports, manufacturers, and trade analysts attributed government and exporters efforts in exploring new markets and duty-free market access. “As the government is providing cash incentives against apparel export to non-traditional export destination, exports earnings from the new market has seen a sharp rise in July-October period of the current fiscal year, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed told the Textile Today. For the current fiscal year, the Bangladesh government has increased cash incentives to 4% from 3% against export to new markets. The present government is very positive to business expansion and it will continue its policy support for market diversification. In the months to come, the export earnings from the non-traditional market will see further growth, said the minister. He also urged the apparel manufacturers to explore more new markets in a bid to enlarge

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Clothing products exports to non-traditional markets Year

Woven products

Knitwear products

% compared to the same

(million$)

period a year ago

2018-2019

940.20

950

53.78

2017-2018

611.41

721

31.66

the export destination to reach the export target of $50 billion by 2021. “In the recent year, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has taken some massive initiatives to explore new export destination by participation in various exposition. While some of the countries have provided dutyfree market access, which pushed the export shipments to the new markets sharply,” BGMEA Senior Vice President Faruque Hassan told the Textile Today. On top of that, safety improvement in the Bangladesh apparel sector has rebuild buyers confidence in procuring products from here, said Hassan also Managing Director of Giant Group. I think it’s high time for Bangladesh to grab more market share from the global export market. But the government has to be more active in this regard by offering proper and effective

policy support, he added. “Bangladesh is doing better in non-traditional export markets. This is because of manufacturers move for new markets, while the government policy support including cash incentives expedited the growth,” Former Advisor to caretaker government AB Mirza Azizul Islam told the Textile Today. In addition, the China-US trade war also was another reason for the sharp rise as the buyers of northAmerican placing orders here, said the economist. He urged the government to continue policy support to diversify export destination to reduce dependency on EU and US markets. Non-traditional export markets for the Bangladesh garment sector include China, Russia, Japan, India, South Africa, Australia, Turkey, Brazil, Chile, Mexico, South Korea, Malaysia, and New Zealand.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11