February 2019 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 02 l Pages 43 to 108
w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m
February 2019
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Accord’s wrong inspection damages the image of Liberty Fashion
Ananta Group to invest at MEZ to produce value added items
Shasha Denims brings sustainable ‘Balance Low Impact’ solution after ‘Balance’
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F a c t o r y Ta l e s
Out of 88, 59 are government and 29 are private EZs. Feasibility studies, land acquisition and identifying area specific social and environmental initiatives are underway for these approved EZs.
Special investment areas offering multiple facilities to local and foreign investors Textile Today Analysis There are eight export processing zones across the country under the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA) with the primary objective to provide special areas where potential investors would find a congenial investment climate free from cumbersome procedures.
same facilities to investors the main distinction of the two authorities are that BEPZA is mainly for export-oriented companies while BEZA provides land for both local and export markets, according to industry people.
Besides, the government has planned to set up more than 100 special economic zones (SEZs) by 2030 across the country in all potential areas in Bangladesh including backward and underdeveloped regions with a view to encouraging rapid economic development through increase and diversification of industry, employment, production and export through Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA).
“Export Processing Zones are mainly for 100 percent export-oriented companies and provide all required infrastructure with services,” BEPZA General Manager (communication) Nazma Binte Alamgir told the correspondent.
Once completed, SEZs are expected to create jobs for 10 million people and produce products and services worth US$40 billion.
One investor will get all required services from security to export-import permit, utility under efficient management working for the last 30 years, she said adding EPZs offer ready to start operation facility.
Both BEPZA and BEZA are administered by the Prime Minister’s Office. Though they offer more or less
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
The EPZs under BEPZA are Chittagong EPZ, Dhaka EPZ, Mongla EPZ, Ishwardi EPZ, Comilla EPZ, Uttara EPZ, Adamjee EPZ, Karnaphuli EPZ.
EPZs under Uttara EPZ
Dhaka EPZ Ishwardi EPZ
Adamjee EPZ
Comilla EPZ Chittagong EPZ Mongla EPZ
Karnaphuli EPZ
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An initiative of Textile Today
Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...
The Team Tareq Amin Founder & CEO Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development
Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator SN Abdullah Research & Development
‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and explore positives and significant stories from sites of the industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video contents will be developed to highlight & promote best practices; product and process development stories; social and environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturing companies.
Sanjoy Kumar Saha Sanaullah Sabuj Engagement & Communication
Major Factory Tales Services are Brand Strategy Making (Identity & Positioning)
Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing
Best Practice Story Building (Marketing/Branding Story)
Yeasin Mia Graphic Design
Ashraful Alam Cinematographer
Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer
Riasad Rion Sr. Executive, Web & IT
Brand Manual Making
(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand Materials and Websites)
Photography & Videography
(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)
Brand Communication- PR Services
Amenities of Factory Tales
Identical position in the industry
Buyer and consumer loyalty
Vantage in price negotiation
Employer Branding
New business possibility
Robust & sustainable business
Award on best practice
Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com 25A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh Tel: +88 02 55093682, Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748 Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com
I n v e s t m e n t To d a y
On the other hand, BEZA initially provides land where developers can set up required infrastructure, industry people said. With the endeavor of establishing economic zones in potential areas of the country with a view to encourage rapid economic development through diversification of industries and creation of employment and increasing production and export, BEZA has till now got approval to establish 88 economic zones countrywide, one of its officials said.
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74Approved Economic Zones
BEZA would provide multiple incentives, to the developers of the Economic Zones as well as to the manufacturing unit investors, according to its officials. Incentives for developer include: • 12 years income tax exemption • VAT exemption on electricity • Local purchase excluding petroleum products •E xemption from custom/excise duties and dividend tax •E xemption of stamp duty registration fees for land registration, stamp duty for registration off loan/credit document Incentives for unit investors: • 10 years income tax exemption • Duty-free import of raw materials •E Zs declared as a custom bonded area • No ceiling of FDI • 1 00% backward linkage of raw materials and accessories to sell for EOI in DTA •2 0% sale of the finished product to DTA
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Zone Develoments under progress
C
ompetitive Incentive Package for developer and Unit investors
12 Private EZS
almost ready for unite investors
4G2G EZs is under process
O
ff-site development facilities
Power supply
Out of them, 59 are government and 29 are private EZs. Feasibility studies, land acquisition and identifying area specific social and environmental initiatives are underway for these approved EZs, he added. The EZs developed under BEZA would be for both local and foreign markets, he noted.
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
One Stop Services
dedicated and uninterrupted
Figure: Features of Bangladesh special investment areas to attract investors
• Sub-contracting with DTA allowed Provision of transfer of shares by foreign shareholders to local shareholders and investors: • I ssuance of a work permit to foreigners is allowed up to 5% of total officers/employees of an industrial unit •R e-investment of remittable dividend to be treated as new foreign investment •R esident visa for an investment of US$75,000 or more and citizenship for an investment of US$ 10,00,000 or more There are, however, different opinions from experts. About a year back, one of the Bangladesh Institute of Development Studies (BIDS) experts recommended that the Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority and the Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority should merge with each other as both are carrying out same types of tasks. The expert argued that both BEZA and BEPZA are governmentsponsored investment facilitators, helping domestic and foreign
Volume 12, Issue 02
investors in setting up factories in the country and both of them are also operating under the Prime Minister’s Office. Since 2009-10 Fiscal Year to 2016-17 Fiscal Year US$ 2.76 billion investment has been gained in BEPZA, according to its annual report of 2016-17. EPZ enterprises exports stood at US$ 40.45 billion in FY 2016-17 from $28.22billion in FY of 200910, it revealed. About 2,45,597 Bangladeshi nationals have directly employed in EPZs during the period. Industrial park There were moves to set up the first industrial park at Gazaria, Munshiganj for many years but the project had been shelved for over several years due to bureaucratic tangles. The plan to set up the Palli was taken up in December 2005 and the apparel industry association in April 2006 found out a 300-acre Char land at Gazaria in Munshiganj, about 37 kilometers north-east of the capital.
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F a c t o r y Ta l e s
The garment industrial park would have about 1,000 plots with infrastructural facilities, utility services, medical facilities, CETPs (central effluent treatment plants), day-care centers, roads, drainage facilities, waste-dumping yard, firefighting equipment, banks, insurance offices, and IT (information technology) parks. Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) signed a memorandum of understanding with a Chinese company to develop the park in June 2016 which latter did not see the light.
I n v e s t m e n t To d a y
The BEZA and BGMEA signed a memorandum of understanding in this regard in March last year to set up the garment park.
Till date, 19 companies have received pre-qualification letters while eight received pre-qualification licenses including two EZs of Meghna group, Aman, Abdul Monem and City, a BEZA official said adding licenses are given after meeting some additional requirements like environment clearance, master plan, and feasibility study.
At least 57 garment companies have so far deposited booking money with the BGMEA for 370 acres of land.
The proposed apparel park was expected to blur the future of Bangladesh's garment export, as competing countries are hastily implementing a lot of such parks to woo global buyers, who look for fully-compliant factories.
of Chottagram in a bid to boost apparel exports in the years to come.
Later in 2018, the government decided to provide the BGMEA 500 acres of land inside a special economic zone located in Mirsarai
BEZA, which deals with these zones, believes that the move would help garment makers earn $50 billion from exports by 2021.
The BGMEA said that it would invest $2.0 billion in the zone for setting up the factories, which is expected to generate employment for some 0.5 million people. Till date, 19 companies have received pre-qualification letters while eight received prequalification licenses including two EZs of Meghna group, Aman, Abdul Monem and City, a BEZA official said adding licenses are given after meeting some additional requirements like environment clearance, master plan, and feasibility study. According to the deal, the BGMEA will start the process of building factories within one year.
DyStar opens ‘Texanlab’ in Bangladesh Staff Correspondent DyStar Bangladesh Ltd. has opened a new lab testing service office ‘Texanlab’ at Niketon, Dhaka on 14 February. This textile laboratory would be the first of its kind to serve the export industry with more than “just testing” services – it will also provide endto-end solutions in the supply chain, from raw materials to final products. The new lab is equipped with five main sections that includes: 1. Sampling area 2. Physical area 3. Chemical area 4. Wet area 5. Light area Eric Hopmann, CEO & Head of Global Sales & Marketing, DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd. said, “Texanlab is testing fabrics from retailers. And we have a lot of expertise with Dystar and Texanlab, we are expanding this expertise in
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be looking to set up Texanlab in Turkey, Vietnam, maybe in Pakistan. Because these are key countries for the textile industry. Also, we have a further future plan to set up more labs in the region,” Eric Hopmann added. Bangladesh, why? Because, now Bangladesh is a key country for garments, textile exports and you need to meet all the standards of the retailers. Which also make things more complicated. As every retailer has got different standards. But Texanlab has the expertise, to know what to do, how to test, and gives confidence to the retailers. So it’s a different investment.” Texanlab closely works with global brands and retailers and has tested more than 350,000 RSL parameters since its inception. “We have Texanlab in India and Bangladesh. And we would
In the inauguration program, distinguished figures from the industry as well as the top leaders of Dystar were present. Among them Professor Engr. Mashud Ahmed, former VC, BUTEX; Engr. Md. Shafiqur Rahman, President of ITET; Eric Hopmann, CEO, Head of Global Sales & Marketing, DyStar Group; Majaharul Islam Sumon, Manager (Bangladesh) DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd; Ridha Najar, Country Manager Bangladesh, DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, and Jayant Khera, Vice President South Asia, Dystar India Private Ltd were present.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Te x t i l e - I c o n
Ananta Group started their glorious journey in 1991 by late prominent industrialist Humayun Zahir. From 1993, Mrs. Qamrun Nahar Zahir took the guardianship of the company, since Sharif Zahir (elder son of Humayun Zahir) joined the family business in 2000 and took over the leadership in 2006 as Managing Director. Sharif Zahir finished his graduation from the University of Texas at Austin in 1999. When he started they had 1500 people for making jeans. From there, they focused on building the organization. And today they have almost 26,000 people working across 8 factories. Ananta Group also diversified the product portfolio by making jeans, suits, sweaters, and lingerie. Recently Textile Today Team met with Sharif Zahir where he opened up many things like his vision, thoughts and his personal life.
Ananta Group to invest at MEZ to produce value added items 50
Textile Today: How will you differentiate Ananta Group from others? Sharif Zahir: Here the difference is how we have differentiated ourselves from others. I’ve studied abroad and come back as it was our family business. Also, my younger brother Asif Zahir completed his graduation from Stanford University in Computer Science & Engineering and joined in 2008 as Director and some others who’ve studied abroad and worked abroad joined the company as well. Even though it’s a traditional industry but we thought the opportunities were there to differentiate the company. This company is run by professional management. And we’ve set up a structure where we’ve proper accountability and transparency of the company. We are also different from other companies as we always invest in human capital transformation.
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Sharif Zahir at a glance!
Avg office time - 10 hrs Regular gym - 2 hrs Sleeping time - 6-7 hrs Hobby - Architecture & design Dress - White shirt with jeans and jacket Favorite food - Molecular gastronomy Game - Squash Love to travel
Textile Today: Please share us from which vision did you join here? Sharif Zahir: As I said that untapped opportunities brought me here and this is also my family business. Usually, the trend for people studying in the US is to join a multinational company and stay there. But I have seen that Bangladesh is a developing country and has a lot of opportunities. Country’s average growth rate is more than 7%. Right now with the investment in infrastructure and proper outlook, I think Bangladesh, as well as companies, have a long way to go. So, for anyone who wants to work hard, I think Bangladesh is the right place and that is why I have come back.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Textile Today: What is your future plan as a Managing Director keeping in mind the current challenges of the textile and garment industry? Sharif Zahir: We have taken some investors, a Swedish hedge farm has invested in 2009-10. Then IFC was also a small shareholder. We have grown by 25 to 30% for the last five years. We have set the platform to grow this as a much bigger company. Unlike other garment manufacturers, we are a more structured company now. We have invested in ERP so that this company can go even further. We have a target of achieving US$ 1 billion export by 2022 and we are on it. And to make it happen we are continuously investing in people and organization.
Volume 12, Issue 02
Te x t i l e - I c o n
Our philosophy is to give the best service to the retailers at the moment. Which means we want to diversify the product portfolio even more. One major problem of Bangladesh textile and garment sectors problem is that from the ’80s till present we are concentrating on bottom products. But if go to a retail you will see that there are so many other different products. Now we need to get into other products. Which means we can do other value-added products like suits and dresses. In the future we can see that the textile industry is shrinking. So, the retailers and manufacturers getting more and more dependent on each other. Which will in future lead to the increase in manufacturing services, like we have already started giving design support and we are sourcing our own products. In the future, we will have our own warehousing, where we will pick up information from the stores and we will fit the cutting room. Once this integration is done then the dependency on manufacturers will increase significantly. And this will ensure us as no step away from being a retailer. So, there is no stopping Ananta from reaching the end consumer. Ultimately this is the vision of ours. We have to gain expertise once the business starts to shift from Bangladesh. Working closely with the customers day by day will make our learning period smooth. We are also studying the buyers demand and have the plan to set a new factory at Mirsarai Economic Zone. We have acquired 150 acres land and we have a plan to go for sportswear, active wears, outerwears, and other value-added products. Textile Today: How can Bangladesh textile industry do better and what are the gaps in the industry that has to be mitigated?
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Te x t i l e - I c o n
Figure 2: Sharif Zahir in a conversation with team Textile Today.
Sharif Zahir: Bangladesh is in this business segment for a very long time. But still, now we don’t have any proper technical institute. The existing fashion institutes have no significance, as students can’t understand the fashion of Europe sitting here in Bangladesh as it is a matter of cultural difference. But, what we could have done is investing more in manufacturing infrastructure. Like technical schools, learning patterns, work studies, production engineering, the role of PM and APM. Unfortunately, these things haven’t grown here. When our textile and RMG industry was small, it wasn’t an issue. But now it has grown enormous. And who will provide these supports and play the leading role? To attain $50 billion export who will provide infrastructure support? The textile industry hasn’t grown in a structured way. But we have grown big like cottage industry, which is why we witness incidents like Tazreen and Rana Plaza. So, we have to think comprehensively if we want the industry growth to $50 billion even more. Like a garment factory can’t be in a 10 storied building. Ideally, it should in a single shed structure. The land was an issue in the past but we have the land actually. We need road and infrastructure
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support which is developing now.
the BGMEA.
New factory setups should be in a single roof structure. And the factory has to be very simple and compliant. But we see people make things complicated. Also, ACCORD came here as a joke which is also a matter of shame for us. Can you imagine that foreigners come here to set up a fire pump!
We are also involved with some of the universities by providing interns. But our valuable contribution to the textile industry is from 1991, a great number Ananta Group’s employees became experts and are currently serving the industry.
Bangladesh should have these policies and rules so that other nations could follow us. We are now in that leading position to set our own standard. And we should have set examples for others. We can’t run like as it is for the last 20 years. We have such great universities, each should be equipped with labs and up to dated curriculum on textiles. Our textile graduates have enough caliber but they don’t have enough opportunities. BGMEA and other bodies should play the leading role. But no one taking the proper responsibility and ultimately the industry is suffering immensely. BGMEA should be run by professional management. And the stakeholders like us should be the trustees. We manufacturers will give the vision. Cause someone needs to do the works. As we can’t see any real work been done by
Textile Today: What training facilities do you provide to the employees? Sharif Zahir: We always try to take fresh workers in our new ventures. Like in our suits factory we took 100% fresh workers and giving them proper training. All of our factories are equipped with standard training facilities. We must think our employees as our resources and company structure must be set up accordingly. Textile Today: Please give a message through us for the new entrepreneurs… Sharif Zahir: Actually at this moment innovation is must to survive in the business. So, the new entrepreneurs should come up with innovative ideas along with patience. Also, the government and the banks should make the new investment system easy to iron out the rough edges for the manufacturers. BGMEA also should have some policy to help the newcomers.
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S a f e t y To d a y
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
Accord’s wrong inspection damages the image of Liberty Fashion Management of the Liberty Fashion Wears Limited, a forcibly shut Bangladeshi apparel maker has asked the Accord on Fire and Building Safety to withdraw unsafe tag as the factory building is termed safe by BUET engineers. Staff Correspondent However, it also said that the factory is in operation but due to the Accords’ embargo on buyers not to buy products from the factory and it cannot produce apparel goods for the European brands. Mozammel Huq, Chairman and Managing Director of Liberty Fashion Wears came up with the call at a press conference in Dhaka on Monday. “Without any sensible reason and proper inspection, the Accord has served notice to its signatory brand, not to source goods from Liberty Fashion based on a baseless inspection by the Medway Consultancy Services (MCS),” Mozammel Huq. In the report, Medway Consultancy Services (MCS) said that the building will collapse within 60 hours but it did not happen even in last five years it is good enough to run operation, said Mozammel. In the last couple of years, I have incurred production losses worth Tk490 crore due to the unethical shut by the Accord’s executive Director Rob Wayss. So, I urged the Accord to withdraw its previous letter served to buyers, what termed the factory unsafe and not to buy products from us, said Mozammel. “I want to run the factory and make goods for my buyers.” What actually happened After Rana Plaza incidence that killed over 1,135 workers in 2013, the Tesco, a buyer of the Liberty Fashion Wears hired Medway
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Later, on basis of MCS report, the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, a platform of European Union apparel buyers to improve safety standard in the Figure: Management of the Liberty Fashion Wears Limited at the apparel sector, press conference. Courtesy: The Daily Sun served letter to its signatory brands not to buy products from the factory terming it unsafe to workers safety.
What the BUET engineers found The aftermath of the Accord’s call not to source products from the Liberty Fashion Wears, the management of the factory conducted an inspection by a team of engineers of Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology (BUET) found it safe.
Without any sensible reason and proper inspection, the Accord has served notice to its signatory brand, not to source goods from Liberty Fashion based on a baseless inspection by the Medway Consultancy Services (MCS) -Mozammel Huq. Consultancy Services (MCS) to assess the structural design of the building to be sure about the workplace safety. In May 2013, the MCS conducted a visual and observational inspection and made a report identifying the building with “Red” mark stating that the building would collapse within 60 hours. The aftermath of the report, the factory was declared unsafe for workers safety by the Accord.
“Being disheartened by Accord’s claim and MCS report, I have conducted inspecting spending an amount of Tk10 lakh by the BUET engineers, who did not found a sign of disaster or unsafe,” said Mozammel. “While, I have got certification from the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), which also termed the factory ‘safe’,” he added. There is not but a financial crime behind the unethical and injustice to me. This is because of Rob Wayss racist attitude towards the factory, he claimed.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Sustainable Denim
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
Shasha Denims brings sustainable ‘Balance Low Impact’ solution after ‘Balance’ FT Research Team
After ‘Balance’ Shasha Denims Ltd. brought ‘Balance Low Impact’ a sustainable solution for the denim industry from process to product. The fabric produced with this concept is more ozone and laser process friendly. In this journey of sustainability Jamal Abdun Naser, Director of Shasha Denims said, “This Figure 1: The denim fabric produced with ‘Balance Low Impact’ concept is more ozone & laser process friendly. innovation process will be continued Shashas’ journey towards and Shasha will bring many more sustainability solutions to the denim industry SDL is working everyday with towards sustainability.” their employees, workers, and Currently, their production stakeholders at different levels When the term capacity stands at 33.6 million across the world to become an ‘sustainability’ came yards per year. example of how a denim maker in in the denim sector, Core points of ‘Balance Low Bangladesh is taking on a global Impact’ concept the manufacturers challenge of being greener, more sustainable and energy efficient started to say that they • ‘Balance Low Impact’ fiber: to provide the highest quality of Fiber part will be either with are green without any denim yet service the world. PCW, Organic, Tencel, Modal,
Repreve or Recycled Elastane etc. • ‘ Balance Low Impact’ dyeing: Water consumption is 60% to 80% less than any conventional process in the world. Chemical consumption is 40% to 60% less. • ‘ Balance Low Impact’ finishing: 92% saving of water by Jeanologia G2 process. • ‘ Balance Low Impact’ laundry: The fabric produced with the concept ‘Balance Low Impact’ is suitable for ‘Low Impact Laundry’ i.e. quick wash down and suitable for ozone & laser process.
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proper authentication which makes thing harder for the real practicing people. This is true that achieving 100% sustainability in the denim sector is not possible but by practicing, it could be taken to a certain level. Shasha is exactly doing that thing and ethically they own this concept.
“Shasha has a specific objective which is to contribute to the greener denim world,” Abdun Naser added. He also addressed the ‘sustainability’ as an ongoing process that has to be practiced. Shasha right now in that journey of sustainability and they want it to conclude shortly to declare themselves as a 100% green denim producer. This ‘Balance Low Impact’ is the step of the journey which next step will be ‘Balance Low Impact Plus’. What buyers are thinking “We are getting very good
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
HOW TO
PRODUCE A REAL GREEN JEANS
FROM FIBER TO LAUNDRY.
LOW IMPACT
Balance Low Impact Fiber: Fiber part will be either with PCW, Organic, Tencel, Modal, Repreve or Recycle Elastane etc.
Balance Low Impact Dyeing: Water consumption is 60% to 80% less than any conventional process in the world. Chemical Consumption is 40% to 60% Less.
Balance Low Impact Finishing: 90-100% saving of water by Jeanologia G2 process.
Balance Low Impact Laundry: The fabric produced with the concept Balance Low Impact is suitable for Low Impact Laundry. i.e. quick wash down and suitable for Ozone & Laser process.
Sustainable Denim
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
feedback from the buyers and they are frequently visiting us. They are amazed to see a factory from Bangladesh doing such exceptional things also giving solutions to them,” Abdun Naser said in calm mood! When the term ‘sustainability’ came in the denim sector, the manufacturers started to say that they are green without any proper authentication which makes thing harder for the real practicing people. This is true that achieving 100% sustainability in the denim sector is not possible but by practicing, it could be taken to a certain level. Shasha is exactly doing that thing and ethically they own this concept.
Shasha also wants to keep their activities transparent for all stakeholders so that no one raises the question. They believe that sustainability and fashion should go parallelly. Because without fashion, people won’t buy products whatever it is sustainable or not! Figure 2: Jamal Abdun Naser, Director of Shasha Denims Ltd.
Abdun Naser also added that, “We don’t prefer to use the term ‘sustainability’ as a marketing tool rather we want to contribute more in this journey to the greener world.”
Abdun Naser concluded by saying, “All the manufacturers should be transparent and educate the stakeholders that how things go on the ground and how they are contributing towards sustainability.”
A green composite denim unit to be set up in Mirsarai Staff Correspondent Arman Haque Denim Limited has already laid the foundation stone for the construction of its factory in the zone to go into operation from December 2019. Managing Director of the Arman Haque Denim Limited, SNR Tawfiq, said with hope, “If everything happens as per the plan, the construction works will start in March. The factory will ensure an internationally compliant green global composite denim production facility. It will produce around 10.8 million meters of assorted denim fabric per year.” Tawfiq further mentioned, “The factory will be set up on 10 acres of land with an investment of around TK 3 billion to meet the increasing demand of denim products in European countries and the USA.” “And to achieve this production target we will bring the world’s best brands machinery,” he added proudly. “The main objective of the industry is to uplift the status of denim production in terms of production
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in the Mirsarai Economic Zone as it has some extra facilities. Chattogram port connectivity gives extra edge with product export and raw materials import, ready utility support and Mirsarai Figure: Arman Haque Denim Limited will be the first Economic Zone factory to inaugurate its operation in the Mirsarai authority will provide Economic Zone. direct customs capacity, distinctive and innovative support, Tawfiq mentioned. endeavor to strengthen the overall position of textiles and RMG sector of Bangladesh,” he added. The global demand for denim clothing has been increasing at an annual rate of 9 percent while in the USA, almost 70 percent of the population wear denim products regularly. “Currently, Bangladesh alone has 30 denim mills involving a financial outlay of about US$1 billion. The country has overtaken China to become the number one denim goods supplier to the European Union countries,” SNR Tawfiq said. The reason we are starting it
“Mirsarai Economic Zone will be an economic hub for all. And Arman Haque Denim Limited will enjoy the opportunity of competing and showcasing their strength with the foreign investors, who have also invested in the one-stop service zone,” he concluded. Bangladesh Economic Zone Authority (BEZA) is developing an industrial city adjoining Mirsarai, Feni and Sitakunda Economic Zones, titled ‘Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Shilpa Nagar (BSMSN)’ to assist, encourage and facilitate investment from both home and abroad.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02

F a c t o r y Ta l e s
ďƒś Digital Mapping
RMG factories come under digital mapping system to ensure transparency Staff Correspondent Readymade garment (RMG) factories, for the first of its kind, have been brought under a digital mapping system mainly to ensure transparency through credible data. Under the move, a total of 961 export-oriented garment factories, located in Dhaka district, have been mapped. Factory names, GPS location, postal address, number of workers, products, export countries, brands and buyers, memberships, affiliations, and certifications could be seen in clicking the website www.mappedinbangladesh.org.
export-oriented RMG factories on Saturday (9 February) at the BGMEA headquarters in Dhaka. Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) President Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, BGMEA President Md Siddiqur Rahman, BKMEA Vice President Mansoor Ahmed, Department of Inspections for Factories and Establishments (DIFE) Inspector General Shamsuzzaman Bhuiyan, among others, were present at the launching ceremony.
the C&A Foundation and support from Brac USA, the BGMEA, BKMEA, and DIFE also are the strategic partners of the project. The map incorporating factories from across the country is expected to be completed in 2021. Tipu Munshi, however, pressed for the need for including information on buyers who so far increased prices of apparels and how much after the latest wage hike and those who expressed interests in doing so. He also stressed the need for fair prices from buyers.
Figure: Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi launched the digital map containing information on export-oriented RMG factories on Saturday (9 February) at the BGMEA headquarters in Dhaka. Courtesy: rmg.org.bd
Of them, 855 units are the members of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and 144 are the members of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), according to the map webpage.
One can see which inspection authority has assessed fire, electrical and structural integrity in which units.
Pressing for fair prices of locally made apparel, FBCCI President Mohiuddin called for ensuring transparency in the whole supply chain.
Out of the 961 factories, some 448 factories have been assessed by Accord and 169 by Alliance, according to the map information.
BGMEA President Md Siddiqur Rahman criticized media reports on workers terminations saying any smallest incident of local RMG factories got huge attention from all corners.
However, out of the 961 factories, 13 are not members of any of the trade bodies-BGMEA and BKMEA.
A total of 579 units are affiliated with Business Social Compliance Initiative, 356 with SEDEX, 175 with OEKO-TEX, 126 with WRAP and 109 with ISO inspection organizations, it shows.
Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi launched the digital map containing information on
The digital mapping project was initiated in 2017 led by Brac University with lead funding from
There are some units that have registered with both the trade bodies.
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There are many good practices that are not published, he alleged. Information of only exportoriented garment factories in the map should be incorporated, he said adding they couldn't take the responsibility of those not affiliated with the trade bodies. 59
f ro m f i e l d to fa s h i o n
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February 2019 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 02 l Pages 61 to 78
Several innovations in
natural fibers to boost sustainable
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fashion industry
February 2019
Researchers to manufacture graphene-based wearable e-textiles commercially Design of an agro-textile cultivation bed for spread rooted plants with hydrogel through soilless vertical farming
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Several innovations in natural fibers to boost sustainable fashion industry Abir Basak From the prehistoric time, people are making their clothes masterly by cotton, silk, jute, viscose etc ingredients. In spite of having a little bad impact for body or planet petroleum-based fibers like nylon, polyester, acrylic and spandex are being manufactured nowadays. What if we could make new textiles from trash? What if we could invent new sustainable alternative products along with conventional behaving like cotton? It is high time to think different. The world of the textile industry has been implementing new technologies and developing new fibers which are both innovative and better for the industry from the sustainable social and environmental point of view. We know that our fashion industry depends on cotton more as it is a comfortable and incredible gift from nature. According to WWF, cotton production currently accounts for approximately 2.5 percent of the world’s arable land. But its farming accounts for 24% of the global sales of insecticides and 11% of pesticides, most of which is directly released
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into the environment. This, in turn, has dire consequences on the health of the farmers who are exposed to these chemicals on the daily basis and also contaminates the water and soil of the surrounding communities. Cotton consumes a vast amount of water-approximately 10,000 liters of water are needed to grow one kilo of cotton fiber. This is why innovative textiles, such as fabrics made from coffee grounds, lotus, bamboo, seaweed, pineapple leaves or bamboo are so important as they are the foundation of the future greener fashion industry. 1. Lotus fiber Lotus fiber is an organic & ecofriendly fiber to use. Lotus plants
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are pure by virtue and they disperse this purity through their fibers. By wearing fabrics made from lotus fiber, one feels calm, peaceful and meditative. Countries like Thailand, Cambodia, India and Myanmar's villagers have been using lotus fibers for special rare fabrics for centuries. The process of making is quite time-consuming but fiber produces luxurious, finest fabrics in the world that feels like a combination of silk and raw linen. It is also stain-resistant, lightweight, soft, silky and extremely breathable. Good quality lotus thread comes from lotus stems harvested during the monsoon season when the tides are high and the mud is fertile.
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Figure: Serenity scarf made of lotus fiber (50%) and natural silk (50%)
Figure: Lotus flower
The quality of the lotus fabric is superior that there has been an attempt at commercial use but its price is the most expensive. According to Fashion United, Binoy Ravjani, Co-Founder and CEO of Jaipur based Hero’s Fashion Pvt Ltd from India said, “Lotus fabric is the most ecological fabric in the world. Waste is transformed into a quality textile that doesn’t use any polluting resources such as oil, electricity, gas or any toxic chemicals during any stage of the production process. NoMark Lotus shirt is just the best white shirt ever made and stain resistant which price is 135 Euros.”
smoothening. Wearing products made out of orange fiber is like wearing a vitamin cream; it’s nourishing for the skin and the effects are guaranteed for twenty washes, for now. According to ORANGE FIBER and BBC, two girls from Sicily of Italy, Adriana Santanocito (fashion design student) and Enrica Arena have made a dream come true creating Orange Fiber, using the wastes coming from oranges (citrus) in 2011. Finally, the project is being developed now with the support of the Coca-Cola Foundation with a hashtag motto
#WearOrange. Orange Fiber was patented in Italy in 2013 and extended in 2014 when the first prototype was produced. The two girl's invention has opened the new door of the sustainable sector. Their idea has won several awards attracting the interest of private investors globally. 3. Coffee ground fiber Most coffee drinkers simply throw away coffee ground after making their coffee. To produce a cup of Joe, only 0.2 percent of the coffee bean is needed, the remaining 99.8
According to channelnewsasian. com, to produce a square meter of pure lotus fabric, it takes a skilled weaver at least 40 days and requires at least 20,000 lotus stems. A one-meter-long scarf made of lotus threads is worth about US$ 450 & jacket US$ 5,600. 2. Orange fiber A new hope for sustainable textile & fashion industry that orange gives us more opportunity to produce greener and healthier fiber. It is a biodegradable fiber like silk; soft to the touch and shiny appearance, suitable to be woven with any type of existing yarn. Inside are also positioned, with the aid of nanotechnologies, essential oils in the form of capsules that dissolve in contact with the skin,
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Figure: Orange
Figure: Orange fiber
Figure: Orange peel
Figure: Orange yarn
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Volume 12, Issue 02
S u s t a i n a b l e F i b r e , Ya r n & F a b r i c
Figure: Coffee bean
Figure: Shoes made of coffee grounds (photo source: S.Café)
Figure: Jeans made of coffee grounds (photo source: S.Café)
percent become coffee grounds (coffee waste) and most likely thrown away. But it is an important raw material that can be used to make eco-friendly coffee ground fibers.
that Coffee grounds can take away the body odors. Jason took the suggestion seriously and after he launched the brand S.Cafe with one motto 'Drink it, Wear it', pouring in four years of research and $1.7 million of investment money. S.Cafe became the world's first mill that converts leftover coffee grounds to the fabric. Today, it has more than 110 clients including Patagonia, North Face, Timberland, REI, Adidas, American Eagle, and Victoria's Secret.
and quick drying time.
Taiwanese textile company Singtex’s modern technology combines the post-patented processed coffee ground with a polymer to create master batches before spinning it into yarn. One T-shirt can be made with three cups of coffee grounds and five recycled plastic bottles. Coffee grounds are free, and recycled plastic bottles have smaller carbon footprints than their non-recycled counterparts. The idea came up in 2005 when Singtex CEO and third-generation textile maker Jason Chen and his wife Amy were sitting in Starbucks and sipping coffee. Amy joked
Figure: Stinging nettle plant (Courtesy: Alamy stock)
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The resulting coffee yarn is multifunctional and can be used in a variety of products, from outdoor and sports performance wear to household items used every day. Singtex has developed a wide range of products made from S.Café, such as underwear, bedding, and even footwear. This attire offers excellent natural antiodor qualities, UV ray protection
4. Stinging nettle fiber Stinging nettle fiber is similar to hemp fiber. Stinging nettle fibers are versatile, keep the wearer warm in winter and cool in summer. It can be grown with far less water and pesticides than cotton. The nettles are harvested in the summer for the production of the fibers and the stalks dried well. This removes the sting. After drying, the stalks are broken to separate the woody parts. Then the plant is combed to separate the fibers and to remove the leaf attachments. After that, the fibers are spun wet and then dried. Twisting those increases tear resistance. Super high fiber content is obtained from hybrid nettle plants using new spinning techniques, which are strong and flexible and have a good spinning length.
Figure: Raw fibers extracted from stinging nettle plant
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S u s t a i n a b l e F i b r e , Ya r n & F a b r i c
spite of having many lacking.
Figure: Pineapple (photo source: Piñatex)
Figure: Pineapple fabric (photo source: Piñatex
The strength of this fiber is almost like jute. It has been examined that its tolerant capacity is about 36 centimeters per tex, where the tolerant capacity of jute is 25 to 40 continuation per tex. This fiber can be used for geo-textile, clothing, window screen, table or house accessories, and the cost of production will be low.
Figure: Banana fiber extracting process
Figure: Banana fabric
5. Pineapple fiber Everyone is aware of the terrible loss of artificial fiber around the world because it is harmful both for body and environment. Pineapple fiber could be a solution though it is so expensive because it is beautiful as linen and its natural luminosity. Lightweight, easy to mix with other fiber, softness, and good texture than silk and easy to wash makes it more popular. Fiber production has been started a few years back in Bangladesh. Although the country's use and demand are very less export to abroad is quite profitable. If the proper initiative is taken then 800 kg pineapple fiber in one-hectare land and 16 thousand metric tons fiber in a year can be produced annually only from Madhupur in Tangail and Chattogram Hill Tracts area. London-based research firm Ananas Anam has developed a natural and non-woven textile out of pineapple leaves, known as Piñatex, the result of years of work which is remarkably alternative to leather; a new type of natural tissue, which is 100 percent sustainable. In addition, it is also a strong, yet versatile, breathable, soft and flexible material which can be easily printed on, stitched and cut, then making it suitable for a number of fashion products. 6. Banana fiber Banana fiber is a natural, sustainable, hygienic fiber with high strength, which can be blended easily with cotton fiber or other synthetic fibers to produce blended fabric and textiles.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Figure: Banana fibers are drying under the sun
It is made from the stem of the banana tree and is incredibly durable and biodegradable. The fiber consists of thick-walled cell tissue, bonded together by natural gums and is mainly composed of cellulose, hemicelluloses, and lignin. Banana fiber is similar to natural bamboo fiber, but its spin ability, fineness, and tensile strength are said to be better. India is the world's largest banana producer with an annual output of 24.8 million tones followed by China, the Philippines, Ecuador, and Brazil. India accounts for 22 percent of the global banana production. Recently in Bangladesh, this fiber production has been started commercially in
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According to promusa.org, a banana research website, the Banana tree is cultivated commercially in Bangladesh about 50 thousand to one lakh hectares of land. As per the average of 400 trees per bigha, the amount of banana cultivation is more than 29.5 million every year. According to Guardian, at least one kg of yarn is available from 37 kgs banana stems. As a result, the amount of fiber obtained in a year will be about 2 lakhs 95 thousand tons. The price of per kg fiber is estimated at Tk 20, but the price of fiber still will stand at more than Tk 590 crore! It's a big opportunity to boost Bangladesh economy in a hygienic way.
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S u s t a i n a b l e F i b r e , Ya r n & F a b r i c
other is chemical. T-shirt, socks, garments, towel, decorative and more luxurious items are produced by bamboo. This fabric is far softer than cotton, closer to cashmere in feel. The strength of bamboo is higher, 45.6 (gm/tex) where cotton is 30.
Figure: Coconut
7. Coconut husks The growing demand for ecofriendly products in the market is where coir should fast step in. It is a lightweight, soilless growing medium made from the fibers which are found between a ripe coconut's shell and an outer surface. The fruit’s husks have fibrous qualities. A thousand coconuts can produce 10kg of fiber, and there’s usually a harvest every 30-45 days. According to coir board of India, currently, the global annual production of coir fiber is about 350,000 metric tons. Yet, even in the world’s top two producers are India and Sri Lanka, which account for about 80% of global coir fiber production. Some coir fiber manufacturing factories have been built in Bagerhat, Bangladesh and they're exporting to the abroad
Figure: Coconut product
and meeting up local demands. Mattress, sofa or other household products can be made by this ecofriendly fiber from husks. 8. Bamboo fiber Bamboo is the fastest-growing woody plant in the world, capable of growing up to four feet over night. Most of it is grown organically. It is considered one of the most sustainable plants because it grows quickly absorbing huge carbon-di-oxide and does not require chemicals, irrigation or fertilizers. Bamboo is a regenerated natural cellulosic fiber produced from the pulp of bamboo grass. Besides, its ingredients are available at 1/20 percent less cheap rate than cotton. There are actually two methods of extracting fabric from the bamboo plant. One is mechanical and
50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
India has one of the richest bamboo resources in the world, second to China and Brazil in bamboo production. In Bangladesh, 10% of the total land area is hill tracts, mostly in Chattogram region. According to Chattogram Hill Tracts Development Board, there are about one lakh hectares of forest land in this area where bamboo is produced. Non-Timber Forest Products (NTFP) such as bamboo and rattan are involved with the livelihood of the people of this region. The government has recently undertaken a project of Tk. 25 crores 65 lakh for the protection and extension of bamboo cultivation in the area. In this project, bamboo and cane production will be increased in 26 upazilas of Rangamati, Khagrachari and Bandarban districts. In addition, fiber technologists believe that if Bangladesh produces fiber from bamboo on a commercial basis along with using in paper mills, new milestones will be created.
45.6
30 28%
7.7
Strength
7.5
Molsture%
Figure: Comparison between bamboo & cotton
65%
Asia
7%
Africa
America
Figure: Contribution of world bamboo resources by continent
Figure: Bamboo tree
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Volume 12, Issue 02
S u s t a i n a b l e F i b r e , Ya r n & F a b r i c
Researchers to manufacture graphenebased wearable e-textiles commercially The market for e-textile clothing is forecasted to reach $5 billion by 2027, according to the market research firm IDTechEX. Textile Today Analysis Scientists have developed a simple and cost-effective method to manufacture graphene-based wearable electronic-textiles on an industrial scale. Graphene is predicted to be one of the most prominent materials in wearable e-textiles, nonetheless, there is no good way to manufacture them on an industrial scale. The new technique could allow graphene e-textiles to be manufactured at commercial production rates of 150 meters per minute, researchers said. “To be able to produce graphene-based wearable e-textiles in scalable quantity at very high speed is a significant breakthrough for the rapidly growing wearable market,” said Nazmul Karim from The University of Manchester in the UK. Nazmul Karim further added that, “Our simple and cost-effective way of producing multi-functional graphene textiles could easily be scaled up for many real-life applications, such as sportswear, military gear, and medical clothing.” In the new method, the researchers have reversed the previous process of coating textiles with graphene-based materials. Conventionally, the textiles are first treated with graphene oxide, and then the graphene oxide is reduced to its functional form of reduced graphene oxide. Instead, the researchers first reduced the graphene oxide in solution and then coated the textiles with the reduced form. By making coating the ultimate step, it becomes possible to use a coating technique termed
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Figure: Graphene-based wearable e-textiles move closer to commercial production. Source: University of Manchester.
padding, which is currently the most commonly used method of applying functional finishes to textiles in the textile industry. For instance, water-repellent and wrinkle-free clothing are often made by padding. A commercial pad-dry unit can process approximately 150 meters of fabric in just one minute—a colossal leap from laboratory methods for coating textiles with graphene that frequently involves multiple time-consuming steps. As the researchers write in their paper, they believe that using padding to manufacture graphene-based e-textiles will be an imperative step in moving from R&D-based e-textiles to real-world applications. In their study, the researchers demonstrated that e-textiles made by a laboratory-scale pad-dry unit exhibited excellent electrical and mechanical characteristics. Tests exhibited that the reduced graphene oxide forms a uniform coating around the individual cotton fibers, which results in good electric conductivity, tensile
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strength, breathability, flexibility, and overall comfort of the fabric. The coated fabric also appears to remain electrically conductive after repeated washing cycles. Graphene-based wearable e-textiles have a diversity of potential applications. One possibility, which the researchers demonstrated, is that sensors can be incorporated into the fabric for monitoring physical activity. A sensor mounted on the wrist, for example, can capture mechanical movements such as bending/ unbending, stretching/relaxation, and twisting/untwisting. Another possibility is to incorporate flexible heating elements throughout an item of clothing, along with flexible super capacitors to power them. "Our future research plan is to look into other 2D materials and utilize their benefits for wearable e-textiles applications and we are also looking to commercialize these technologies in collaboration with industrial partners," Nazmul Karim concluded.
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Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t
Reviewed Article
Design of an agro-textile cultivation bed for spread rooted plants with hydrogel through soilless vertical farming Md. Abdus Salam ① , Dewan Murshed Ahmed ② , Farabi Rahmat Ullah ③ ① Department of Wet Process Engineering, Faculty of Textile Chemicals Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Bangladesh ②
Department of Fabric Engineering, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Bangladesh
③ Textile
Division, Bangladesh Standards and Testing Institution (BSTI), Bangladesh
The research has been done under Textile Talent Hunt 2017-18 organized by Bangladesh Textile Today Abstract: The research is aimed to develop a system to cultivate the plants in a soilless agro-textiles bed. Reduction of agrochemicals, maximization of crop p roduction on minimum land are getting prime issues in case of agriculture nowadays. This paper shows a solution to the matters of integrating textile technologies with agriculture. Here a system presents agro-textiles based cultivation where plants are grown on textile fabric basements. Hydrogel, a superabsorbent chemical was introduced within the textile fabric to make root support to grow plants. Organic fertilizer was used to provide the required nutrients (micro and macronutrients) and integrated with the beds. Three agro-textiles beds were prepared with different textile structures (woven, knit and nonwoven) and wheatgrass seeds were sowed on them. It was found that with zero soil consumption plants are successfully grown on all of the beds. This process shows a successful medium to grow plants without soil, also proved eco-friendly approaches with optimum water and chemicals consumption, besides the implementation of vertical farming, enhances the production several times.
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Keywords Soilless; Hydrogel; Agro-textiles; Vertical farming; Modern agriculture 1. Introduction The land area for cultivation is getting collapsed with the rapid growth of population and civilization. In these urban areas, land consumption for the cultivation of our required crops or vegetable is very trivial. So, if there any scope is found of cultivation without the help of soil would be a great approach to resolve these frequent problems in our daily lives. So far, there are some modern soilless farming techniques but still not in extensive practice due to various constraints. Therefore, a new approach to soilless farming integrated with the capability of multiple productivities has been presented in this paper with the help of agriculture and textile technology. By this method, the implementation of the concept of vertical farming allows increased amounts of production. The hydrogel is a superabsorbent polymer used in absorbent products. Its non-toxic polyacrylamide can be used for developing the soil-less cultivation system. The hydrogel is under developing stage to be used as
absorbent support for the soil to provide better water and mineral supply. This paper shows the overall method of production of such a system introducing hydrogel with textile materials. 2. Materials In this research three types of fabric structures were used to develop the soilless cultivation bed- woven fabric made by jute yarn of the following specification: EPI & PPI of 6 and yarn count of 28lb/spyndle, plain weave; knitted fabric of synthetic material (Nylon) with warp knitted 3D spacer construction; and a non-woven structure using absorbent cotton fiber such collected from the baby diaper. The hydrogel was used in the bed for necessary water and chemical ingredients cushion. The hydrogel was collected from baby diapers. To provide the plants with required macro and micronutrients, an organic fertilizer was used. The dissolved nutrients solution from the fertilizer was collected. And for farming, wheatgrass seeds were sowed to grow. 3. Methods 3.1. Preparation of nutrient solution The fertilizer was poured with the required amount of water and mixed well so that the salt content
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To prepare the woven bed, the fabric was kept on one of the trays, and hydrogel powder was distributed within the pores of the fabric on the tray. Then the nutrient solution was sprayed on the tray equally over the fabric until it absorbed the solution up to its saturation. The same procedures were applied to prepare the knit fabric bed. In the case of non-woven cultivation bed preparation, the absorbent fibers collected from baby diaper was already included with hydrogel in its construction. Thus, the fibers were taken on the tray and distributed equally; then the nutrient solution was sprayed to prepare the non-woven bed.
Figure 1: Preparing a nutrient solution.
within the fertilizer could be solubilized into the water. Then the mixture was filtered using filter paper, and the filtered solution was collected. It was the nutrient solution for plant growth. To prevent a bacterial attack in the solution, a small amount of alum was mixed with the solution. With the help of water, the concentration of the salt in the solution was maintained.
3.3. Preparing vertical farming bed and sowing seeds Figure 3: Woven Bed.
3.2. Preparing agro-textile cultivation bed To produce the cultivation bed, the basic concept was introducing the nutrient solution with fabric basements. And to hold the nutrient solution for long time absorbent (hydrogel) material assisted the system. To make a comparison, a soil bed was firstly prepared taking soil from land into a pot to grow plants; it’s like the conventional farming techniques.
The vertical farming bed was made by assembling the three cultivation beds as a rack and then it was placed in a place where the plants can get easy access of required natural light and free air to grow well. Before sowing the wheat-grass seeds on the beds, they were soaked into water for germination overnight. After germination, the
Figure 4: Knit Bed.
To introduce vertical farming into the system a rack of three trays was taken and three different beds with woven, knit and non-woven fabric were prepared. Figure 5: Non-woven Bed.
Figure 2: Hydrogel Collected from the baby diaper.
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Figure 6: Vertical Cultivation Arrangement.
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the bed's wheatgrass plants were growing gradually and freshly. Figure 7 shows the grown plants in the beds after nine days of sowing.
(a)
The gradually increased height of the wheatgrass on different beds has been shown in Table 1 and it has been found that plants grew themselves in the three different beds successfully as well as grew in the soil bed.
(b)
(c)
It was found that the agro-textile cultivation beds were actually a function of supporting base for the growing roots of the plants. To understand well about the growth in different beds the plant heights of subsequent days were plotted in a graph (shown in figure 8) and found that plants were growing gradually and with a comparison to soil bed, those were not so deviant.
(d)
Figure 7: Plants grown in (a) Soil Bed, (b) Woven Bed, (c) Knit Bed & (d) Non-woven bed.
seeds were transfigured to the three agro-textiles bed as well as the soil bed softly and carefully. Then the seeds were allowed to grow on the beds. 3.4. Observation and data collection
moisture supply for the plants, and the growth is observed and recorded. The height of the plant is measured with the help of a ruler every morning and recorded for evaluation of the cultivation. 4. Results and discussion
After sowing the seeds, each morning the beds were observed. The trays were sprayed with fresh water to keep the regular
The experiment was continued for nine days and the data was being collected each of those days. After nine days it was found that in all
The plants grown on the woven bed were the highest among the
Table 1: Growth observation of the plants in different agro-textiles cultivation as well as soil bed. Growth(mm)
Mean
Plant 6
Plant 5
Plant Length (mm) Plant 4
Mean
Plant 3
Plant 2
Growth(mm)
Knit Bed
Plant Length (mm) Plant 1
Mean
Plant 3
Plant 2
Plant Length (mm) Plant 1
Mean
Plant 3
Plant 2
Plant 1
Days
Plant Length (mm)
Knit Bed Growth(mm)
Woven Bed Growth(mm)
Soil Bed
1
22
22
19
21
21
21
22
17
20
20
22
18
20
20
20
23
19
21
21
21
2
50
52
54
52
31
53
50
50
51
31
45
48
45
46
26
50
53
50
51
30
3
99
102
105
102
50
85
89
81
85
34
76
79
85
80
54
78
83
79
80
50
4
148
155
147
150
48
105
111
114
110
25
99
92
94
95
41
103
98
99
100
50
5
177
182
181
180
30
148
153
164
155
45
119
113
113
115
74
118
123
119
120
70
6
190
192
188
190
10
163
161
156
160
5
122
121
117
120
46
128
124
123
125
55
7
203
198
199
200
10
182
175
183
180
20
124
129
122
125
79
136
129
125
130
75
8
201
206
208
205
5
186
181
188
185
5
137
142
141
140
61
152
149
149
150
75
9
208
210
212
210
5
201
204
195
200
15
155
148
147
150
89
166
159
155
160
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Soil Bed
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Woven Bed
Kinit Bed
Non - Woven Bed
250
Plants height (mm)
200
150
100
50
0
Day 1
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Day 5
Day 6
Day 7
Day 8
Day 9
Figure 8: Plant growth recorded in different agro-textile beds.
agro-textiles beds. This is due to the structural compactness and supporting capability to the roots. The spreading pattern of wheatgrass is shown in Figure 9, in this experiment the non-woven bed was very sophisticated to support the roots, in case of knit bed the pores among the structure was of more area to support the roots, but in case of woven bed the design was rather compact than the other two beds. This was one of the basic factors to make growth variations in different beds. The spreading roots were easily entrapped within the inter-stitches of the warp and weft yarns of woven fabric, on the contrary in case of other two beds it was very easy to pick out the plants from beds than the woven bed. Roots were entrapped and spread through the woven bed with strong support, thus grows well almost like the soil. The basic needs to grow plants were proper water and nutrients (macro & micro) supply, access to light and natural air. The soil is here support for the roots to grow and a media to hold and serve the nutrients and mineral water naturally. This research represents the combined action of fabric bed and hydrogel as the substitute of soil, thus the plants could grow in the beds since there was no absence of any required supply. In modern soilless innovations,
this technique can hold a strong position between soil cultivation and hydroponics. It can bring hydroponics and soil cultivation together in a concept as well as offering much more variants of plants to grow by their root nature and spreading behavior in different fabric structures. Due to the variation of different parameters, the results may show the difference in separate beds, it will require further study to establish various parameters for different plants and supporting beds. 5. Conclusion Plants are mandatory not only for the survival of lives but also for the maintenance of the atmosphere and ecosystem. But with the growing civilization since the land area for cultivation is rapidly collapsing, something new implementation is getting the crucial need. Here the project presents the solution with the combination of agriculture and textile technology. The introduced agro-textile beds and cultivation system will allow plants to grow with zero soil consumption. Since there is no additional application except for the basic requirements of the plant, growth there may be a greater chance of getting freshly grown plants. Thus in case of urban areas where the roof gardening is getting so much
popular, the agro-textile cultivation system can make them reached into a further ahead step. There are many more variations in the requirements of different parameters for different plants, thus it will ask for further studies to set up specific parameters and methods for different plants as well as different ambient. But now it’s time to explore textiles as a substitute of soil for agricultural cultivation. And the vertical farming system will allow with the multiple quantities for the production in the same area rather than the conventional cultivation system. Also, the thin layer agro-textiles based cultivation system will ensure less water and chemical consumption as well as providing safe environmental concerns. This technology can bring the areas where it was considered not suitable for cultivation like a river or flood-affected regions. Very interestingly there is a long period after the flood the farmers cannot grow plants; this technology can be a wise solution to the concern during this time. Acknowledgement The authors are thankful to Prof. Engr. Mashud Ahmed, Honourable former Vice-Chancellor, Bangladesh University of Textiles, Bangladesh; for his active guidance in this work.
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Sustainable Fiber
Biocrystal® innovation entering the textile industry market Desk Report
After implementing Biocrystal® innovation into various types of foam for furniture, bedding, automotive, aircraft, and many other industries, this product is being further developed and researched for implementation into the fiber.
body condition.
Developed by experts, relying only on natural resources, Biocrystal® mixture is a powerful combination of 16 natural crystals ennobled with threads of gold and silver, scientifically tested and proven to work. This is the reason why the European company BC Tech, an inventor and provider of Biocrystal innovation, recently established a company in India and hired experienced consultants and well-known experts of the textile industry (which is the second largest industry of this country).
with expertise in nanomaterial technology and textile manufacturing and quality system, Dr. Thunuguntla Jai Mangal Sinha and Swadesh Verma. Implementing Biocrystal® into fiber will further bring to the development of yarn with an active impact, relying on tested and proven efficiency for an end-user. Regardless of the particle size, the efficiency of Biocrystal® mixture is retained, therefore the innovated yarn, used in textile production will provide an experience of improved energy flow through the body, reduced consequences of fatigue and stress and improved overall
Innovative fiber with Biocrystal® is being developed by the most reputed Indian experts,
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Besides fiber and yarn, Biocrystal® innovation for the textile industry will be available through microcapsules adhesion to fabric, as well as through the textile printing process. To be successfully implemented into the fiber, Biocrystal® particles are grinded to the size smaller than one micron, which is a process that requires both manpower expertise as well as machinery development investments. Considering the immense potential of the global textile market and India’s market as one of the world’s leading, Biocrystal® fiber will, indubitably, soon become the most wanted textile industry innovation and repeat the successful practice from numerous industries.
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Sustainable Fabric
'Khadi' can uphold country's traditional industry to the world Abir Basak Khadi is the rich heritage and history messenger of Bengali culture strongly reminds us of the “Swadeshi Movement”. This Khadi or Khoddor cloth is directly hand made from the ancient time. The yarn is made from carpas cotton; later this yarn goes through hand-operated charka (spinning wheel) or tant to be turned into traditional cloth.
Figure 1: A Khadi artisan is spinning yarn for traditional khadi fabric
Since the Indo-British period, Cumilla's khadi has been getting extra popularity. This region's flourishing khadi goods are cherishing the consciousness of Bengali culture, tradition for centuries. And before the partition of sub-continent countries, during 'Quit India' movement, Mahatma Gandhi's call for the boycott of industrial spun fabrics from England, this thick cloth's demand stretched at a skyscraper. Consequently, it became a supreme symbol of patriotism. After the independence of Bangladesh, though this heritage withered, the fashion houses like Aarong, Kay Kraft, Bishwo Rang have been highlighting this tradition with various ways in front of the khadi lovers for last 15 years as a Bengali fashion icon. Sailendra
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Nath Guha (known as khadibabu), Founder of Grameen Khadi and his son Bijon and Arun Guha, and the Khadi and Cottage Industries Association (KCIA) also played a momentous role. Diversity in design The new appearance of khadi has changed the notion of orthodox rough textures and thick clothing matter. Thin khadi gowns, skirts, tops, shirts, kurta, fatuya, saree, bed sheets have become trendy thanks to expert designing. Khadi clothes were made mostly white and off-white color prior but now colorful varieties are available. Khadi special corners are common in fashion houses. Fayez Hassan, Executive Designer of Aarong said, “To promote khadi among youths, we should produce
attires by giving importance on their preference. There was a time when these garments ran in winter seasons only but now it is worn all over the year.” Pradip Kumar Raha, Proprietor of Cumilla Khadighar said, “Usually traditionally spun khadi clothes were very heavy once. Now refined clothes are produced. The young generation has embraced khadi warmly, and some even researching on it. Khadi is a global product as Bengali communities around the world affectionately took this beloved product.” Khadi traders informed that every yard of khadi hand-made spun fabric is valued on average Tk. 200 although it depends on the fluctuation of cotton prices. Besides, machine-made fabrics cost Tk. 140 per yard.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Sustainable Fabric
Figure 2: Models are showcasing designer’s khadi attires in the festival. Courtesy: FDCB
Branding of Khadi In 2004, the khadi festival was organized by one of the country's leading fashion house, KayKraft. But it was not conceivable for them to organize regularly due to many reasons. Also at various times khadi weaving was showcased named Boyon-Sangeet by Anjon's and Nitya Upahar. The 2009 Boyon-Sangeet showcase was dedicated to the Tanti (weaving) community, presented them with crests and certificates as accreditation. In 2015, the Fashion Design Council of Bangladesh (FDCB) has started officially the 'Khadi Festival' to uphold this famous heritage in collaboration with the Cultural Ministry. The name is given 'Khadi: Future Fabric Show' with tagline #GOKHADI. This festival has attracted a lot of foreign and local designers from the beginning. Maheen Khan, Fashion Designer and Founder President of FDCB said, “Muslin, Jamdani, Khadi, Nakshi Kantha- these names restore a connection to our very own royal past. Khadi textile has the lowest carbon footprint; it can help mitigate global warming to a certain extent. Weaving the Khadi
Bangladesh Textile Today |
The reason Khadi is gaining popularity and extensive acceptance is that it’s availability in the diversity of design concepts. Customers get a wide range of colors to choose from. It is no more fabric of the seriouslooking, aged people or government officials. The younger generation working in the fashion and corporate sector find it cool and wear it with pride. Khadi is a versatile fabric, has the magical ability to stay cool in summer and warm in winter. Mixed khadi requires less care, paralleled to pure khadi.
Volume 12, Issue 02
requires no electricity or burning of fossil fuels. In today’s age, we are most concerned with long term sustainability, eco-friendliness, and green product. I believe Khadi is the prime solution to concerns related to global warming.” “With the help from the government, private, corporate initiatives and continuous efforts of the FDCB, Khadi is slowly but indisputably reviving its lost heritage,” Maheen Khan added. Khadi is getting more popular among young people Although the new generation doesn't know more about this heritage cloth, nowadays due to proper promotion, their keen interest in khadi is increasing. The reason Khadi is gaining popularity and extensive acceptance is that it’s availability in the diversity of design concepts. Customers get a wide range of colors to choose from. It is no more fabric of the serious-looking, aged people or government officials. The younger generation working in the fashion and corporate sector find it cool and wear it with pride. Khadi is a versatile fabric, has the magical ability to stay cool in summer and warm in winter. Mixed khadi requires less care, paralleled to pure khadi.
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Sustainable Fabric
Challenges and way outs Despite the widespread demand, this potential market is not being utilized due to the lack of fair value of its labor, scarcity of raw materials, artisan crisis, the higher price of cotton, lack of modern technology, financial supports, shut-down handloom factories, efficient managerial skills, proper marketing, and promotion etc. Another root cause of backwardness is the involvement of the grassroots khadi workers in the RMG industry. For these reasons, Khadi of Cumilla is losing her heritage. Khadi Shilpa (industry) saw the golden time in the preindependence period. After the liberation war, the khadi industry witnessed a traumatized reality. According to traders, strong association, forming strong channel of distribution, government’s special consideration, proper policy framework, exhibition, capturing untapped markets, media coverage can help this cottage industry to revive yet again.
the face of light and business would become more resilient if khadi accesses in the international market widely. Besides, government's export diversification project named 'one district, one commodity' will be able to play a substantial role to expand the khadi industry. India and Pakistan are other leading sourcing hubs for khadi. To promote and reach to apex, the Indian government has decided to harness solar energy to power charkas (spinning wheels) across the country to boost the production by 20 times. The Government of India and the Asian Development Bank (ADB) signed the package loan agreement of $150 million for the Khadi Reform and Development Program (KRDP). In addition, Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) has urged to Indian Railways for running a special train named 'Khadi Express' to promote this industry on the occasion of Mahatma Gandhi's 150th birth anniversary. The Bangladeshi government has also taken steps to provide financial aids by identifying tant villages.
Khadipara artisan could see
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There are over 0.88 million handloom workers included khadi, of them about 0.41 million are female while 0.47 million are male, according to the Planning Commission. Recently the government has launched a handloom census across the country spending of Tk 80 million to revive the local khadi industry. Besides, the process to get Geographic Indication (GI) registration of Bangladeshi product - Cumilla's textile ‘Khadi’ and ‘Roshmalai’ has been started after achieving GI of jamdani saree. If we get, then this could bring a new milestone to this sector. Conclusion Khadi is the signature fabric of sub-continental countries. According to traditional business analysts, right now, what Bangladesh government is doing to revitalize khadi, ought to need further initiatives. If this attempt continues accurately it is undoubtedly concluded that khadi has a glittering future with parallels like other successful traditional sectors like Tangail saree and Jamdani.
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Engr. Md. Kawsar Alam Sikder Chief Operating Officer Fariha Knit Tex Ltd.
Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury Director Huetech Yarn Limited
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Founder & CEO Bangladesh Textile Today
Mohammad Mezbah Uddin Executive Director T&M Sourcing Ltd
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Unveiling industry best practices
Knitting & Knitwear Fe b r u ar y 2 01 9
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 02 l Pages 79 to 96
Profitability crisis of knit sector and possible way outs (Part-II)
Knit sector gains a great momentum in 2018
Unveiling industry best practices Knitting & Knitwear
Pailung knitting machine offers quality, flexibility, productivity, functionality, and reliability
K n i t i n g To d a y
Profitability crisis of knit sector and possible way outs [Part-I was published in December '18 issue]
(Part-II)
Engr. Kawsar Alam Sikder, COO – Textile Division, Asrotex Group At least 513 factories were shut down within the last 4 years. Several challenges hit our knit sector like a hurricane, of them Tajrin Garments fire incident, collapse of Rana Plaza, workers movement to increase minimum wages, workers movement to adjust the wages of senior workers are most prominent. Those incidents not only affected a particular factory Figure: Knit sector has opportunity for further improvement. rather created a lasting tailspin impact on all the I want to share my ideas which factories of knit sector financially. will be eye-opening for the knit Today I will try to point out the manufacturers. scopes and how to overcome this Right First Time (RFT): After crisis. getting the order from a customer, In part 1, I have mentioned a few we have to divide the whole order management failure cases which quantity into smaller production impact on profitability. Today I lot size. Many factories do not want to narrate few operational measure, how many productions failures or low-performance areas lot produce at first time with good which impact on profitability. quality means Right First Time Running with low profit for a (RFT). Higher RFT means lower long time, factories were thrown reprocess/rework/alteration etc. out from the race and making When marketing team quote for survival of the business difficult. price or negotiate for price, do they consider factories RFT? Most
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
of the cases, they do not consider. Buyer’s target price was too competitive, to grape the order, they only consider industries ideal situation. Means, the buyer does not pay for our reprocess/rework/ alteration etc. It is not possible to keep the calculated profit margin in double-digit when confirming the order. To rectify the non-RFT production lot, the factory must deploy additional resources like man-hours, machines, utility definitely it will deduct from the margin. Rectification of non-RFT
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K n i t i n g To d a y
production lot obviously decreases production. It has a huge impact on quality, though the factory passes forward after taking appropriate measures. There is a chance of overlooking in end inspection or early failure in customer end. Customer claim and dissatisfaction are the consequences, the factory may lose the confidence of customers. Which may increase the chance of decreasing the business volume. Resources utilization: The buyer asks quotation with cost breakdown from several factories. Means, the buyer knows the yarn price, knitting charge, dyeing charge, process loss, consumption, SMV and even how much calculated profit consider in the cost sheet. Factories can’t offer a higher price than industries average, if someone offers a higher price, definitely the buyer will go for hard bargaining if they don’t have the option to place an order to other factories. So smarter people will concentrate on optimum utilization of resources like yarn, fabric, utility etc. At first, we can measure the existing amount, then set a goal to reduce the usages within the time frame. Continuous follow up will help to achieve the set goal. In many cases, reuse of the resources is also possible. Form a team, who will take positive initiatives, adopting an incentive plan also expedites the process. Wastage reduction: If we compare the current wastage percentage with five years earlier, definitely we will find noticeable improvement. It’s true, our capability, know-how, and skills have enhanced a lot, on the other hand, tougher situation i.e. low profitability of the business, makes us more conscious to minimize wastage. I believe, still, we have room for further improvement. Most of the factories, consider material waste as wastage. Rather than material, six more wastage is existing in our manufacturing
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industries, in the light of Lean Philosophy. Transportation waste exists in most of the Bangladeshi industries because the industries expand step by steps from a small startup. Wasting in transportation due to the bad process flow, leads to wasting huge time, money, man-hour as well as material rejection. If we look into Inventory, Motion, WIP, over processing, overproduction & defect, surely, we will find the presence of wastage. Everywhere, wastage exists and there is a huge opportunity to reduce wastage. Learning and adopting Lean Philosophy will make a difference.
What we have done in investment, most of the factories common practice is, observe what others are doing, and observe where others are investing. Taken investment decision based on current trends, we should do a feasibility study and consider the return on investment, before investment/expansion of any manufacturing factories. Rejection: Any rejection means, we have three option in hand, either replace or rework or reject. If we consider, more allowance, in that case, rejection can be possible. That much probation is not in our hand due to the low price of the finished product. Any replacement of material directly impacts on profit as because it was not considered in the cost sheet at the time of order confirming. Any alteration/ rework also has a negative impact on portability, it has a cascading effect like more cycle time, usages
of additional resources and effect on overall production. Utilization of manufacturing capacity: What we have done in investment, most of the factories common practice is, observe what others are doing, and observe where others are investing. Taken investment decision based on current trends, we should do a feasibility study and consider the return on investment, before investment/expansion of any manufacturing factories. Whatever wrong, we have done in past, we can only recover by maximum utilization of existing manufacturing capacity. Top management should focus on selling their idle manufacturing capacity, either by doing own orders or sub-contracting orders. I have noticed the first digital market place, www.aliganz.com where idle capacity can buy or sell, along with your existing marketing team. It will help factories to optimize the utilization of manufacturing capacity as well as minimization of cost. Development of human capital: Most of the textile and garment factory owners or Board of Directors want to buy talent to resolve existing problems, it is a costly process, and will not get the desired result all the times. Moreover, there is a scarcity of expertise among personnel in the relevant field. It will be wise to take initiatives to build expertise from your existing strength. This is economical, though it is a long term process. This is more sustainable than other options. Capability, skill, attitude, and knowledge of the majority of our strength can be enhanced by providing proper training, counseling etc. it’s true that Industries are passing a tough time due to low profitability. Adopting the above initiatives can give us a way to overcome the crisis causes of low profitability.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
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K n i t t i n g To d a y
Knit sector gain a great momentum in 2018 The government should come forward to facilitate necessary support to resolve the remaining challenges and utilize the opportunities as the sector can boost further Akhi Akter, M M Uddin The global knitting industry is growing at a fast rate as the popularity of knitting has grown tremendously in recent years. The increased versatility of techniques, the adaptability of many new man-made fibers and the rising in consumer demand for the greatly expanding areas of sportswear, other casual wear are driving the growth. Bangladesh knit sector is one of the largest knit garments manufacturing industry in the world considering both capabilities and competitiveness. The sector is producing top quality knit garments at the lowest cost. Bangladesh has been a heaven for producing knit garments for global brands who are always getting the best deal here, taking out the best quality out of the lowest possible money.
market share in cotton & cottonrich knit products for the last 16 years. World’s leading brands are sourcing knit garments from Bangladesh like H&M, Walmart, C&A, Zara etc. Bangladesh exports numerous popular knit items to the global market. Recently Bangladeshi knit
manufacturers have concentrated on making value-added items to sustain strongly in the global arena. In 2018 (calendar year), Bangladesh knit sector saw great growth. Economists and business leaders opined that calmness in the country’s political arena,
Top brands importing knit products from Bangladesh
Bangladesh knitwear export scenario There are a total of 4560 garments factories in Bangladesh exporting apparel products in the global market, of them about 2500 are knit garment factories. With almost all major retailers, Bangladesh has a significant
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Management Certificate on Dyehouse
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Managing Dyehouses Towards Zero
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K n i t t i n g To d a y
Major knit export items
T-shirt
Knitted Jacket, cardigans
Polo shirt
the US-China trade war, and improvement in safety conditions in the ready-made garment factories were main reasons behind the increase of knit export. Month
Knit exports in 2018 (billion US $)
January
1.31
February
1.21
March
1.19
April
1.21
May
1.39
June
1.24
July
1.52
August
1.38
Pullover & sweatshirt
Fashion items
According to figure 3, knitwear export has increased by 11.76% to 16.24 billion USD in 2018 compared to last calendar year that was 14.30 billion USD in 2017. Knitwear export earnings of 2018 is 1.71 billion USD higher than the previous year.
Sports jersey & trousers
• Fast fashions pressure • Poor infrastructure • Unstable power supply • Higher bank interest • Unplanned capacity expansion • Production cost increase
Major sourcing countries
October
1.66
Bangladesh exports knit items to almost 50 countries where the European Union (EU) and the USA are the main destinations. According to BGMEA data, in 2018, Bangladesh knit sector exports 11.61 billion USD in EU and 1.43 billion USD in the USA. In the non-traditional market, knit sector exports 2.72 million USD.
November
1.43
Challenges of the knit sector
December
1.34
According to sector people, the knit sector is facing the below challenges:
September 1.29
Above table is showing that each month of 2018, the sector has earned an average amount where in October knitwear exports has seen the biggest growth to 1.66 billion USD.
Babies items
In 2018 (calendar year), Bangladesh knit sector saw great growth. Economists and business leaders opined that calmness in the country’s political arena, the US-China trade war, and improvement in safety conditions in the readymade garment factories were main reasons behind the increase of knit export.
• Lack of design input, innovation • Lack of product variety • Productivity challenge
Knitwear export trends of Bangladesh 18 16.24
16
14.53
13.73
14
12.79
12.16
11.76
12 10 8
7.34 6.29
6
5.82
5.18
4 2 0
2014
2015 Increase rate (%)
2016
2017
2018
Total knit export (billion US $)
Figure 1: Knitwear export trends of Bangladesh from 2014 to 2018 (in USD billion)
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Opportunities of the knit sector
K n i t t i n g To d a y
Top 5 export destinations for knit products in 2018 (USD million)
There are huge opportunities for the knit sector, some are mentioned below: • Competitive labor cost • Robust backward linkage
USA 1435.67 $
UK 1963.24 $
• State-of-the-art facilities • GSP facility (other than the USA) • Increase market share by entering to the untapped product group • Increase business by entering to the untapped market
Germany 3322.2 $
Spain 1317.3
France 1150.09 $
• Overtake extra business from China Thousands of factories of Bangladesh are producing basic knit products. The price of basic products is going down drastically. On the other hand, wages have been increased by 51% that is a great reason behind the rise of production cost. Standing in the situation, factories should invest to increase the capability of doing value-added products. It is not practical to increase the market share further on those basic
product lines since the demand for value-added products has been increased. Now the knit manufacturers need to identify the products where they have a poor market share and they need to develop efficient know how. In fine, Bangladesh has already proved that it is capable to fulfill the global demand for quality knit garments, however, to sustain in the global arena for a long time,
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we need to identify challenges and scopes appropriately. The government should come forward to facilitate the necessary support to resolve the mentioned challenges and utilize the remaining opportunities. Also, we have to increase our knowledge level and we have to reduce dependence on basic products. We have to increase production of value-added products to cater the global buyers and get fair prices.
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Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed Head Of Technical Support Taiwan Persotex Corporation
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K n i t t i n g Te c h n o l o g y
Pailung knitting machine offers quality, flexibility, productivity, functionality, and reliability FT Research Team Pailung Machinery Mill Co. Ltd. established in 1977, a Taiwan based knitting machine manufacturing global company. Pailungs’ goal is to help brands, designers and manufacturers to develop innovative fabric technologies that boldly transform the end results. Pailung machines are available in 72 countries through over 30 agents. Pailungs’ Bangladeshi agent is Tex Excellence Limited. Pailung in Bangladesh Pailung is successfully conducting its operations in Bangladesh for a long time. Factories prefer Pailung machines because of its quality, flexibility, productivity, functionality and, more importantly, reliability. With the support of a local agent, they are now one of the most popular knitting machine suppliers and solution providers in the knitting sector. Customer feedback Palmal Group, one of the leading knit composite company of Bangladesh using Pailung knitting machines of different ranges. Almost 80% knitting machine of Palmal Group is of Pailung. Arkay Knit Dyeing Mills Ltd, a sister concern of Palmal Group has 86 the latest technology Pailung machine out of 166. They have Pailungs’ single jersey, rib machine, interlock, and fleece knitting machine. Why a factory should use Pailung machine, answering this question Indrapal Singh Rawat, Head of Operations of Arkay Knit Dyeing Mills Ltd. pointed out some points• Very much price competitive • RoY is 3-4 times less than others
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Figure: 80% knitting machine of Palmal Group is of Pailung.
• Efficiency 80-85% average
many renowned factories.
• Easy handling for the workers
With 86 different models with specifications ranging from 3 inches to 64 inches’ diameter and 3 to 60 gauges, Pailung offers the widest range of machines in the circular knitting segment. Effectively, including all variants, the company offers 200,000 different types of machines based on customer requirements.
•C omparatively less maintenance cost than others • Spare parts are locally available • Very good after sales service •U p to date technology support etc. “Average production of the newly established machine is 300 kg per day. In Pailung machine we don’t have to waste time to set a new design, hardly it takes one day to go for production,” said Md. Nayan, Assistant General Manager (Knitting) of Arkay Knit Dyeing Mills Ltd. “We are facing some problems in the new machines due to change of inverter model, though we already informed them and they are taking action,” he further added. According to Indrapal Singh, Pailung has its own strength especially in single jersey and rib machine. He is in Bangladesh for the last 8 to 9 years and worked in
“It’s very rare for a machinery manufacturer to have such a wide range of machines to offer to the market. Compared to our global competitors we are much younger and smaller. But we have the flexibility to offer a very wide range of custom-built machines meeting the specific requirements of customers, which is our biggest strength,” James Wang, Chairman, Pailung said. “We are not just a machine builder, we are a solution provider,” he added. Pailung acquired the USbased circular knitting machine manufacturer Vanguard in 2009 to increase their strength in product innovation and technology.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
S w e a t e r To d a y
Sweater exports post an 18.57% rise Staff Correspondent Bangladesh’s exports shipment of sweater picked up by 18.57% to $2.93 billion in the July-January period of the current fiscal year. According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, in JulyJanuary period of the fiscal year 2018-19, Bangladesh earned $2.93 billion exporting sweaters, which is 18.57% higher compared to $2.47 billion in the same period last year. Talking to Textile Today, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Vice President Mohammed Nasir attributed extended winter season and quality of the product for the Sharp rise in export earnings from the sweater sector. In addition, the manufacturers also have upgraded the technology in meeting the global demands and to improve the quality of goods, which attracted the buyers’ attention and they placed more orders, said Nasir. Bangladesh’s Sweater Export to world: Value in billion USD 2017-18 (July-Jan)
2018-19 (July-Jan)
Growth
2.47
2.93
18.57%
In the current year, we are hoping to register over 20% growth as the industry is now one of the safest in the world and buyers are placing more work orders, said the business leader. But the government has to provide policy support and gas and electricity connection to the new entrepreneurs so that we can increase our capacity to lead the global export market, he added.
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Figure: Bangladesh Sweater exports post an 18.57% rise in July- January period of the fiscal year 2018-19. Courtesy: Pretty Sweaters Ltd
Meanwhile, the trade analysts termed the growth as a good sign for the Bangladesh economy as it would help to enlarge the export earnings and help the diversification of products. “Right now, Bangladesh is taking the lead in the global export market in apparel goods, where sweater products are contributing over $3.50 billion. So, the sharp rise in export earnings from the sector will be a blessing for Bangladesh to reach the export target of $50 billion by 2021,” former Finance Advisor to Bangladesh caretaker government AB Mirza Azizul Islam told the Textile Today. In maintaining the growth, manufacturers have to move for diversifying goods as well as to explore new markets. In addition, the government has to play an important role in availing duty-free market access where there is an opportunity to grow, said Islam. However, the manufacturers urged the global retailers and brands to increase prices of goods as the production cost has gone up sharply due to expenses of safety improvement.
In the last few years, the production cost of apparel goods went up by over 15% as the manufacturers have to bear the expenses of safety equipment to ensure a safe workplace for the workers, said Nasir. While the implementation of the new wage structure is another burden for the owners but the brands are not increasing prices of goods, said Nasir urging to consider the price issue. On the other hand, in order to grab a larger market share, Bangladesh has to increase port capacity to reduce lead-time, while inefficiency of infrastructure is another impediment that needs to be addressed. Bangladeshi sweater manufacturers import spin from China and it takes eight to ten days to reach Chattogram port, from where it takes 16 days to reach factory premises from the port. It should be a six-hour journey from Dhaka to Chattogram when carrying finished goods for shipment, but it takes up to 24 hours to reach the port city.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
K n i t w e a r To d a y
Tailored Industry pioneering west free knitting solution Desk Report Tailored Industry, a knitwear manufacturing startup based at the Brooklyn Army Terminal in New York City, is trying automating knitting sweaters and making them to order instead of making thousands that then have to be trashed if no one buys them. At present, in the era of fast fashion. Fashion’s trash is a titanic problem. This is partly a planning problem: When brands try to project demand for a particular shirt or dress, they often end up making far too many clothes. By one estimate, 30% of the 150 billion garments produced each year are never sold. By using software to connect brands to its 3D knitting machines. Tailored Industry, at its facility uses Japanese-made knitting machines that can knit the sleeves and body of a sweater simultaneously without any cutting and sewing– another step that reduces waste compared to some other methods of production. Tailored Industry’s on-demand
the founders of Tailored Industry.” “The whole process takes a year to two years. What really results from that is a lot of overproduction because they’re producing based on the forecast of what they think they need. And what we’re doing is basically bringing the minimum order quantity to zero, so that we can produce exactly what they need when they need it,” Alex Tschopp added. Figure: Tailored Industry is pioneering automating knitting sweaters and making them order instead of making thousands that then have to be trashed if no one buys them. Courtesy: Tailored Industry
model enables fashions brands to launch new products both quickly and affordably, while providing production solutions that aim to precisely match supply with demand. This is all made possible through the tremendous work of its employees, including software engineering, advanced manufacturing, and marketing. “Right now, fashion brands are really stuck in long planning cycles,” says Alex Tschopp, one of
Sustainability Tailored Industry’s on-demand model drastically reduces overproduction throughout the fashion supply chain. On-demand is a pull-based system, where demand from a customer prompts a garment to be made, instead of the traditional push-based system where forecasted demand drives production quantities. Its 3D knitting machines virtually eliminate raw materials waste; each garment creates less than 1% excess material. As well as local manufacturing reduces shipping and creates advanced manufacturing jobs.
Pakistan’s knitwear export sees boom Desk Report Muhammad Jawed Bilwani, Central Chairman of Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA), has expressed optimism that the knitwear garment sector will be able to increase its exports by 20% in the next six months provided the government meets its promises. Knitwear Garment sector's share in the Global Market is 30%. During the last six months of the present fiscal year, Pakistan's Knitwear Garments exports have shown growth of 10.5% and stand on top in the textile group and other sectors.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
its exports to 20% in the next six months.
Jawed Bilwani pledged that upon receipt of payments against refunds and with assurances of uninterrupted supply of gas and electricity, this sector will increase
Volume 12, Issue 02
Jawed Bilwani looked forward to the government revealing its plan of releasing refunds under the Drawback of Duties and Taxes (DDT) scheme as it was critical to encourage an increase in exports. Bilwani also welcomed the withdrawal of import duty on hundreds of raw materials used for manufacturing export products.
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S p i n n i n g To d a y
Success Story: Ring spinning system G 32 – the first choice for mixed yarn production Rieter’s customer Sharmanji Yarns has been faced by a high demand for their well-known polyester/cotton yarn. To increase their production the company has decided to invest in a ring spinning system G 32. The customer profits from this new investment with higher returns in terms of overall productivity and product quality. Desk Report Sharmanji Yarns Pvt. Ltd. manufactures and exports yarns made of 100% cotton as well as cotton and polyester blends. The company uses a ring spinning system with 98000 spindles. Before venturing into yarn spinning in 2007, the company had been involved in yarn trading in Ludhiana, Punjab since 1964. The company’s star product is a polyester/cotton yarn, which is well-known in Ludhiana for its outstanding quality. Thanks to its recent investment in a Rieter ring spinning system, the company has managed to increase its capacity to 132000 spindles. The Challenge: Increase production of polyester/cotton blends As a former yarn trader, Sharmanji Yarns is well versed in the quality requirements of yarn customers and the company places high importance on producing yarn of the same high quality as it was distributing as a yarn trader. It was the sharp increase in the demand for polyester/cotton blends that influenced Sharmanji Yarns to add this yarn to its product range. For them, it was crucial that this new investment would provide higher returns in terms of overall productivity and product quality. Further, Sharmanji Yarns wanted to take advantage of lower installation lead time to be able to grasp complete advantage.
Figure. 1: Ring spinning machines G 32.a
meeting the high demands that the company places on yarn quality. Rieter recommended that company management invests in a complete, powerful system, from the blowroom right down to the end-spinning machine. So Sharmanji Yarns became the first company in India to install the new Rieter bale opener UNIfloc A 12, an exceptionally productive machine which processes up to 2 000 kg of raw material per hour. The card C 70, draw frame RSB-D
45 and ring spinning machines G 32 were equipped with the Rieter man-made fiber package (synthetic fiber packages for processing polyester fibers and its blends). The combing preparation system OMEGAlap E 36 with its innovative winding belt technology and the comber E 86 with circular comb Ri-Q-flex were offered for processing cotton. In 2013, the company tested six ring rails on the G 32 to discover for themselves the benefits it
The Solution: Ring Spinning Machine G 32 Since 2007, combers and draw frames from Rieter have been
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Figure. 2: Ring spinning machine G 32 – for the production of high-quality yarns produced with high efficiency.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
S p i n n i n g To d a y
S w e a t e r To d a y
would offer in terms of saving energy and reducing yarn conversion costs. The impressive test results led Sharmanji Yarns to use Rieter machines in the realization of its 27648-spindle project. Rieter’s dedicated project team worked closely with Sharmanji Yarns’ technical team throughout the preparation and installation phases to ensure fast installation and commissioning. After a threemonth installation process, the system was ready for operation, delivering yarn which met the customer’s requirements for both quality and quantity. The Benefits for Sharmanji Yarns: Sharmanji Yarns is now enjoying the benefits of a Rieter system: higher plant productivity with high yarn quality. The suction tube ECOrized installed on the ring spinning machines G 32 reduces the energy consumption. Together with the energy-saving machines in the blowroom line, the cards, and draw frames allow the company to save around 8%
Figure 3: Mr. Ashu Jain, Managing Director of Sharmanji Yarns Pvt Ltd.
of energy in the UKG values. The entire Rieter system offers higher productivity, so it requires 10% less space. This reduces the company’s indirect costs. Sharmanji Yarns was hugely impressed by these benefits. For its next expansion, the company has placed an order for a second system project (once again for polyester and cotton yarn production) consisting of 34272 spindles. The Customer’s Statement “We have been working with Rieter
for a number of years, largely because of Rieter’s innovation. The company is continuously developing its machines and offers us first-class solutions. This enables us to produce high-quality yarn while keeping operation and production costs low. The level of dedication of the company’s After Sales support team is also very impressive. We are very pleased with our decision to work with Rieter.” says Mr. Ashu Jain, Managing Director of Sharmanji Yarns Pvt Ltd.
Gucci pulled polo neck sweater over blackface resemblance Desk Report the greatest grief," he said in the letter to Gucci's 18,000 employees, first reported by the website Women's Wear Daily.
Last week, the fashion house Gucci has removed an $890 sweater that was criticized for its resemblance to blackface, from its stores and website after social media users denounced it as resembling blackface.
"But I am aware that sometimes, our actions can end up with causing unintentional effects. It is therefore necessary taking full accountability for these effects."
The "balaclava" knit was part of Gucci’s autumn/winter 2018 range. In a letter to all the employees, Creative Director of Gucci, Alessandro Michele said racism was not the intention behind the balaclava sweater — which featured a pull-up neck and bright red lips as a cutout for the mouth. "The fact that, contrarily to my
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Figure: Gucci's creative director addressed the controversy over the brand's $890 sweater that was criticized last week for its resemblance to blackface.
intentions, that turtle-neck jumper evoked racist imagery causes me
Gucci, the Italian luxury brand also released a statement last week that said, "We are fully committed to increasing diversity throughout our organization and turning this incident into a powerful learning moment for the Gucci team and beyond."
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Unveiling industry best practices
Apparel accessories & fashion February 2019
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 02 l Pages 97 to 108
We have to boost our marketing competence -Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman, Well Group
Ergonomics and comfort central to flame retardant apparel innovation
Getting rid of bottleneck operations in garments industry
Bangladesh suit industry requires backward linkage support and strong negotiator Unveiling industry best practices Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
A p p a r e l To d a y
Getting rid of bottleneck operations in garments industry Rasel Ahmed Likhon What is a bottleneck? The bottleneck is an extreme point in the production line where the production is hampered from the normal flow of production. The lowest output point in production line is called bottleneck. In garments industry bottleneck means lowest capacity of one or more operations which results in lowest production and ultimately lowest profit. So, identifying bottleneck operation and removing it is a very significant task to get the highest capacity production. To identify bottleneck operation in a line, we can easily find out it visually where there are more input and less output. For this reason, the actual flow of production is hampered for the next operations. The bottleneck can be found out by the following approaches which are more practical
Figure 1: identifying bottleneck operation and removing it is a very significant task to get the highest capacity production
We could check, whether they are set right.
computerized UBTs and other specialized machines.
4. W orkplace improvements: This could be relating to ergonomic issues like light, fan, seat adjustment, etc.
6. W ork breakdown: Investigate whether it is possible to further divide the process.
5. W ork aids & specialized machine: Guide, Folder, attachment, Jigs etc. Using
• I dentify the operation sequence as per the actual flow of material •G et the capacity study and hourly production sheet ready
Identify
• I dentify the actual bottleneck with its priority.
2. B etter operator allocation: We could check if any ‘A’ grade operator is allocated on a high capacity operation, and whether the bottleneck operator is only ‘B’ grade. If this is the case both the operators could be swapped to get more productivity out of bottleneck. 3. Machine speed or calibrations:
Bangladesh Textile Today |
A. S ame machine as that of bottleneck B. T he right skill required for the bottleneck operation.
Bottleneck elimination techniques 1. M ethods improvement: Improving the way the operator is handling the material and doing the operation.
7. W ork sharing: Giving some part of the work (or some of the pieces) of bottleneck operation to share with a nearby operation which has potentially higher capacity than required for line output. Care should be taken that the operator with which work is shared has
Consequences
Manage
Prevent future bottlenecks
Figure 2: Steps of finging out the bottleneck
Volume 12, Issue 02
8. Quality problems: Could look if there is any quality issue in the previous process, due to which the operator is not receiving proper input to work on, thus decreasing its productivity. 9. W ork overtime: Bottleneck operations could be made to work overtime to make enough of WIP. 10. Adding additional manpower/ machine: In case we find the potential capacity per hour too less than the target output of the line.
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A p p a r e l To d a y
Bangladesh suit industry requires backward linkage support and strong negotiator FT Research Team Interlink is one of the leading suit manufacturing companies in Bangladesh garments industry since 1985. Interlink started manufacturing with J.B. Garments Limited and later Interlink Apparels Limited with the commitment to produce the best quality of garments. Now Interlink has three sister concerns and manufacturing tailoring trousers and blazers. About 3000 skilled people works at Interlink. Only four factories in Bangladesh are manufacturing suits so far. Interlink Dresses is one of the 100% export oriented garments manufacturing factory established in 2009 located at Joydebpur, Gazipur; producing formal & tailoring trouser, blazer etc. mainly for men. Annual turnover of Interlink is US$ 35 million and the country suit industry turnover is around US$ 250 million. Revenue in the suits (men & boys) segment amounts to US$ 6,742m in 2019. The market is expected to grow annually by 1.4% (CAGR 20192021).
Top 5
0
500
1000
1500
United States
US$ 1,818m
Italy
US$ 1,404m
United States
US$ 991m
United States
US$ 639m
United States
US$ 507m
2000
Source: Statista, April 2018 © Nutural Earth
Figure 1: With a market volume of US$1,818m in 2019, most revenue will be generated in the United States.
Precisely, we choose this market segment for its business opportunities, to bring product diversification and to contribute a significant amount in the national export,” said A.K.M Saifur Rahman Farhad, Head of Merchandising & Marketing of Interlink Dresses. He also said with a grievance
that all the suit manufacturers of Bangladesh have to import almost all raw materials including fabrics, accessories etc. from India and China. He urged the new entrepreneurs to invest in these segments mainly for polyester, poly-wool and poly-viscose fabric manufacturing factory.
Why in suit industry? Producing basic t-shirt or so called low end products is now become a wasting of opportunity in this competitive market. Here, producing suit could play a vital role to secure better price though Bangladesh only gets the cost of making (CM). “Interlink entered in the business with a different vision and we are the second company in Bangladesh producing suits.
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Figure 2: A.K.M Saifur Rahman Farhad, Head of Merchandising & Marketing of Interlink Dresses showing trouser.
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Volume 12, Issue 02
A p p a r e l To d a y
A c c e s s o r i e s To d a y
Buyers & products
4. Smart negotiator.
Interlinks 70% of buyers from the UK and 30% from Canada & South Africa as the South African fashion industry is right now a most emerging industry in the world. Recently they also catering some Indian brands orders. According to Saifur Rahman Farhad, Indian top three suiting brand Raymond, Peter England, and Blackberrys only placing their 10% order here but Bangladesh is not availing this properly due to lack of factory.
5. The industry has to up-to-date with the new technology and innovations.
Right now at Interlink Dresses, they have 7 lines trouser (1 lac 30 thousand/month) and 4 lines blazer (60,000/month) facility. 2,200 skilled manpower are continuously working to achieve the organization's goal.
6. Sick competition has to be stopped among the manufacturers.
Figure 3: Finest quality blazers are produced at Interlink Dresses Ltd.
Rahman Farhad, he pointed out some important facts that have to be considered to boost the suiting industry. 1. B uyer awareness raising about strength.
How to boost the suit industry
2. T raveling across the world to understand demand and fashion.
In the discussion with Saifur
3. S trong R&D and designer.
7. Easy and proper banking policy. 8. Strong government policy and support.
9. T raining facility for the operators etc. “Bangladesh is a ready hub, so our new entrepreneurs and existing manufacturers should not be bothered. We have to be more innovative and should keep our nerves!” Saifur Rahman Farhad concluded.
Accessories sub-sector to earn $11.22 billion in FY21 Staff Correspondent
According to a recent estimation of Textile and Jute Ministry, Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging sector, backward linkage industry of RMG, will earn $11.22 billion in FY 2020-21. At present, almost all requirements of garments accessories and packaging of readymade garments and other export-oriented industries are being met up locally which is about 95%. However, to attain this target the sector needs to expand its market globally. “Nowadays our market is confined to only in Bangladesh but we are capable of taking this to foreign markets also. Now we have a production capacity exceeds the local requirement with excellent quality,” Md Abdul Kader Khan, President, Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging
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Packaging Company Ltd.
Figure: Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging sectors’ production capacity exceeds the local requirement with excellent quality.
Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGAPMEA). “I think to boost the export of accessories and packaging products we need to participate in different international expositions. We urged the EPB to give us the opportunity to participate in the international expos. We just want a booth, we will bear all costs,” said Kader Khan, also the Managing Director of Khan Accessories &
“If we could participate 4 to 5 expositions every year, we ought to be able to show our strength in garments accessories and packaging sector,” he emphasized.
“To achieve the US$50 billion export target by FY 2021, GAP sector is likely to be exported US$ 12 billion respectively. If the government provides adequate facilities and policy support, then we will be able to contribute more than $12bn of export earnings by 2021,” Kader Khan highlighted. Export earnings from packaging and accessories items stood at $7.10 billion in FY 2017-18.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Apparel Innovation
Ergonomics and comfort central to flame retardant apparel innovation FT Research Team Flame retardant apparel is an important type of personal protective equipment used by workers in industries that pose a risk of most serious safety hazards, including oil & gas, mining, petrochemical, and electronics & electric power industry. Global flame retardant sales reached nearly 192 million square meters in 2018, with momentum likely to drive the market to a 6.2% YoY in 2019. Imposition of stringent regulatory rules and growing awareness about workers’ safety in high-risk industries worldwide continue to drive growth.
self-extinguishing characteristics. However, both, inherent and treated flame retardant apparels are used in several end-user industries, depending on the industrial applications. Based on the product types of flame retardant apparels, the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into two categories – inherent flame retardant apparels and treated flame retardant apparel. The price of the flame retardant apparels varies zone wise all over the world. (fig- 1)
The Fact.MR study provides valuable information and actionable insights on critical dynamics of the flame retardant apparel market to help readers to fathom future prospects and current growth parameters of the flame retardant apparel market. The report opines that effective implementation of workplace safety guidelines in developing countries can open up new opportunities for manufacturers.
European market to create the most promising growth opportunities with over one-third volume share
Figure 1: Flame retardant apparel is an important type of personal protective equipment used by the worker in the industries.
Based on geographical regions,
CARG (2019-27)
Global Flame Retardant Apparel Market Analysis by End Use
Middle East & Africa
Japan
Latin America
Asia Pacific (Excl. Japan)
North America
What is flame retardant apparel?
Value Opportunity (US$ Mn)
Flame retardant apparels are manufactured using materials, such as woven, non-woven, or knitted clothing, which have been treated chemically to give them
Oil & Gas Petrochemical Power
Source: Fact.MR
Mining
Electronics Automotive & Building & Federal & State & Electrical Transportation Contruction Departments
*The size of the pie charts represents relative market share in 2018
Figure 3: Global flame retardant apparel market analysis by end use.
Global Flame Retardant Apparel Market Pricing Analysis (2018) Price (US$ per Mt Sq.)
Treated Flame Retardant Apparel
Inherent Flame Retardant Apparel
North America
13.8
15.0
15.3
16.8
Latin America
13.5
14.7
15.0
16.4
14.1
15.3
15.6
17.1
13.0
14.1
14.4
15.7
12.0
13.0
13.3
14.5
12.4
13.5
13.7
15.0
Europe Japan APEJ MEA Source: Fact.MR
Lowest
Highest
Figure 2: Global flame retardant apparel market pricing analysis (2018).
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Europe
Volume 12, Issue 02
the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into North America, Latin America, Europe, Japan, Asia Pacific region excluding Japan (APEJ), and the Middle East & Africa (MEA). (fig- 2) EU remains at the forefront of global flame retardant apparel demand, with over one-third volume share in 2018. The constantly evolving regulatory framework for personal protective equipment in Europe has
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
Apparel Innovation
accelerated the demand for flame retardant apparels in the region. The mandatory conformity to the Regulation (EU) 2016/425 adopted by the European Commission has been instrumental in boosting the growth of the Europe flame retardant apparel market. Oil & gas and power generation industries create promising growth opportunities The oil & gas industry remains the largest consumer of flame retardant apparels. Protective clothing, such as flame retardant apparels, has proven to be an effective safeguard against serious injuries and fatalities. The fatal accident rate (FAR) in the oil & gas industry decreased by approximately 36% in 2017 over 2016 as the number of fatalities decreased from 50 to 33 during the year. The study opines that the effectiveness of protective
ďƒś
Global Flame Retardant Apparel Market Analysis & Frecast by Type Incremental $ Opportunity US$ 793.6 Mn
2018E 2027F
US$ 736.0 Mn
2018E 2027F 2018E
US$ 806.6 Mn
2027F 2018E Woven
2027F Non-Woven
Knitted
Source: Fact.MR
clothing in improving worker safety will continue to drive sales in 2019 and beyond. The demand for flame retardant apparels will be complemented by healthy adoption in the power industry. Evolving workplace safety regulation in power, electronics electrical, and automotive & transportation industries are also likely to influence growth.
Furthermore, rapidly growing oil & gas demand in the European Union has bolstered the expansion of the oil & gas industry in the region, which is likely to create positive growth environment for flame retardant apparel market players. Thereby, flame retardant apparel market players are shifting their focus on complying with the European regulatory framework and meeting the dynamic end-user requirements in the region.
16 exporters received export trophy in GAPEXPO 2019 Staff Correspondent
16 garments accessories, printing & packaging exporters of Bangladesh received the export trophy in GAPEXPO 2019. Bangladesh Garments Accessories & Packaging Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BGAPMEA) awarded export trophy for the second time in the GAPEXPO 2019 to motivate exporters of garments accessories, printing and packaging of Bangladesh on the closing ceremony of GAPEXPO on 20 January at ICCB in Dhaka. Among 60 applicants who exported from January to December 2017, 12 garments accessories exporters of the country had received the export trophy in four categories (Small, Medium, Large and Direct Export). Besides, a woman entrepreneur was also awarded a trophy and certificate as part of the recognition in the ceremony. State Minister for Planning
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organizations received gold, silver and bronze trophies. Siam Computerized Elastic Ind. Ltd; KDS Poly Ind. Ltd; Sams Packaging Ind. ltd respectively. In large category, Montrims Ltd.; KDS Figure: 16 exporters had received an export trophy for Accessories Ltd.; Etafil their outstanding contribution. Accessories Ltd. had received gold, silver, bronze trophy M.A Mannan was present in respectively for exporting. the ceremony as Chief Guest, while Bangladesh Bank, Deputy Governor, Shitangshu Kumar Sur Chowdhury were present as Special Guest in the ceremony. The ceremony was presided by the BGAPMEA President Abdul Kader Khan. In small category three organizations received gold, silver and bronze trophies. They were Trims Int Ltd; Golden Accessories Ltd and Polycorr Packaging Ltd respectively. In medium category, three
In the direct export category, Montrims Ltd; Simtex Industry ltd.; Al Muslim Accessories had received the trophy for exporting in China, India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka. Special Award for Woman Entrepreneur went to Green House, Dhaka for exporting and in GAPEXPO stall category, Adzi Trims Ltd.; Union Label and Accessories; Cosmo Group; Technocraft Ltd. and Zisan Int Ltd. had received the export trophy.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02
Apparel Icon
Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman of Well Group, opined to boost the marketing efficiency of Bangladesh textile and apparel industry. Despite having topnotch production house that produces international standard products Bangladesh is lagging behind than India or other rival countries only for the poor marketing efficiency.
We have to boost our
marketing competence Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman, Well Group
Well Group is the pioneer of embroidery and sewing thread in Bangladesh, established in 1973 by Abdus Salam, Founder Chairman of the Group. Well Group spread its wings into the Textiles, Food, Hotel and Real Estate sectors in Bangladesh. The recent growth rate of Well Group is over 25% and such growth in this competitive market is the outcome of a consistent combination of high quality of products and professional management system. Recently Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman of Well Group shared his 35 years’ expert knowledge with the Textile Today Team about their journey, industry challenges and way outs etc. Textile Today: Kindly give us an overview of Well Group’s ventures and recent updates. Sayed Nurul Islam: Our main business is textiles although we are well known for Well Food. But only 10% of our total turnover is from Well Food and rest of 90% from textile and textile-related business.
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Back in 1973, my elder brother Abdus Salam started a small sewing thread processing factory. I’ve joined in 1985 and started thinking about how to produce industrial sewing thread and concentrated on that. Soon after we started a small sewing thread business with the
name ‘Well Thread’. From 1990 we grew a lot and at present, we are one of the largest sewing thread producers in South East Asia. Because of our integrated facilities – from spinning, twisting, dying, finishing – all things combined I think we are one of the largest producers of sewing thread in this region.
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Volume 12, Issue 02
Parallelly, we stepped on to the garment business by introducing Well Fashion Ltd. with 100 sewing machines in around 2005. Currently, we have 6 composite factories with over 3000 machineries. We also do garment trims and accessories like sewing thread, poly bag, twill tape, hanger, gum tape, printed label etc. also we have a washing facility. And from sewing to finished product, means we have a complete package in the textile sector. And we have our own spinning with 40,000 spindles, then we have in house twisting facility, and dye the yarn to make yarn dyed fabric. Which ultimately make Well Group a fully composite group. And our yearly export turnover is more than 100 million USD. Textile Today: Out of all these Well Group’s concerns, which one is your flagship business? Sayed Nurul Islam: Although garment export is a good sum among the groups earning but our main venture is still sewing thread with Well Thread as the flagship business. And we feel proud to be the pioneer in sewing thread business in Bangladesh. Well Group is one of the leading sewing thread producers in Bangladesh and exporting globally and we are competing with multinational companies like Coats, AMANN Bangladesh and A&E etc. Textile Today: Currently Bangladesh textile and garment industry is facing many challenges like wage hike, raw material sourcing, gas price hike etc. Textile bodies like BGMEA, BKMEA or others they don’t give any concrete guideline except saying to increase efficiency and productivity overall. So, as a CEO of Well Group, what is your viewpoint? Sayed Nurul Islam: When we started the business back in the 1980s, there
were also tremendous challenges. And challenges will be always there. As CEO of Well Group, from my experience, I should say that manufacturers have to be a lot more hard worker and exceptionally innovative. And yes, we must also have to increase productivity and efficiency. Otherwise, we can’t sustain this business. What I do believe, global competitiveness is very important. If you talk about challenges, our neighboring competitor countries have higher labor wage, electricity is even expensive, and infrastructure is not far beyond the sun better than us. So, we shouldn’t highlight the negative things but positive happenings. At the back end, we have to work on our weakness. Overall, Bangladesh has improved infrastructures in recent years, gas and electricity have also stabilized. And definitely price is a concern, but uninterrupted power supply has given us the extra mileage. Also we manufacturers can bear the justified utility adjustment I think. Decade by decade the challenges has new turns. But we have to think far ahead and plan accordingly with innovation in mind. As well as we have to sales and marketing under a microscope to develop it. As Indians are far ahead than us in branding
Apparel Icon
and marketing, however, we don’t see enough diversified and quality products in Indian production houses. But their marketing is of international standard. Whereas Bangladesh’s production houses provide top-notch international standard products but our marketing is very poor. RMG producers are lacking in policy and strategy. We need branding. Unless we grow in branding and, marketing Bangladesh’s textile and garment industry will suffer immensely. Textile Today: What Bangladesh manufacturers should do to increase the brand value? Sayed Nurul Islam: First we have to adopt the mindset of global competitiveness. Means not only we must increase our production, quality, and efficiency, but we also have to boost our marketing efficiency. We still are focused solely on the US and EU market. But we don’t see that India, China are potential markets; Malaysia, Thailand, Korea, Japan, and South American countries are also lucrative markets for us. So, we need to expand our existing market into a truly global aspect.
Circular Fashion Brand
A p p a r e l To d a y
Denim Expert launches circular fashion brand ‘Circle’ Desk Report The Denim Expert Ltd, a market leader in quality denim manufacturing, has launched the first images of the first circular fashion collection under the brand name of ‘Circle’. In recent years, the notion of a circular economy has been widely promoted globally. In essence, a circular economy implies that all materials and products in society are reused and circulated amongst its users for as long as possible, in an environmentally safe, effective and just manner. Natural resources, including energy, are used effectively during both the production process and the life cycle of the product. Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd., Mostafiz Uddin, said to Textile Today, “Last year, I was invited to represent Bangladesh at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit in Denmark, where the concept of circular fashion was discussed. I was inspired to set about making a
circular fashion line, produced in Bangladesh, a reality.” Mosatfiz Uddin takes some initiatives circle for the development of the collection that includes designing with nontoxic, high quality, biodegradable materials and in a timeless style and fit to maximize the product’s durability, longevity and appeal to many customers. “All products are produced with rigorous consideration to all relevant chemical regulations
and legislations worldwide. If some parts are made out of non-biodegradable materials, for example, the buttons and zipper, these must be able to be easily separated from the main garment components before biodegradation,” he highlighted. The aim of the designs is to maximize product longevity, sustainability, and durability and to create an image that identifies a product and differentiates it from its competitors. Day by day, this image of the product will become associated with a level of credibility, quality, and satisfaction in the consumer’s mind.
Figure : Transgender employees of Denim Expert Ltd with Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd. Courtesy: denimexpert.com
Flexwarm jacket offers perfect warmth in winter Desk Report malleable.
New innovations are improving every day’s human lifestyle and benefit the industry, the health and the environment. Flexwarm, a jacket that intelligently adjusts to keep the body temperature perfect, is one of the inventions that made human life easier. The technology used in Flexwarm is unlike any heating technology invented before. The self-heating jacket looks absolutely amazing. It heats itself by using groundbreaking flexwarmtech. It can produce 50-degree celsius temperature within 360 seconds and the temperature is controlled by a smartphone. The flexible heating elements now are thin (0.5mm) enough to be printed directly onto fabric. Also, it is safe (low output voltage), durable and washable, along
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Flexwarm printed elements are better than carbon fiber in trans of heating purpose. Flexwarm takes less time to heats up. On the other hand, carbon fiber heats up slowly.
Figure: Flexwarm vest allow the user to take control of their comfort with precise temperature. Courtesy: 8kflexwarm.com
with precise temperature control feature. Therefore, the technology can be applied anywhere like garments, personal care items and home appliances. Basic component The flexible film is insulated and waterproof and nano composite material are easily printable and
Key features Thin and light heating elements: Flexwarm inside technology heating elements are light, flexible, breathable, providing you a comfortable experience. Water resistant: Flexwarm heating system is water resistant, making it great for sports and outdoor activities. Wireless warmth and precise Temperature Flexwarm inside technology provides a user-friendly app that allow the user to take control of their comfort with precise temperature.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 12, Issue 02