Sutainable Dyes and Chemicals November 2018

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November 2018 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 61 to 78

RSL-MRSL promise and reality

Why is the industry willing to adapt and pay more for sustainable solutions?

Huntsman is committed to provide sustainable dyes and chemicals


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AVITERA® Gold SE www.huntsman.com/textile_effects


Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial

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RSL-MRSL promise and reality Rahbar Hossain

Consumers are now very much conscious about using garments. Their consciousness driving the brands, manufacturers as a whole all vendors of full value chain about health, environment, and social safety. To comply with the customer demand,

MRSL is to avoid and control the substances that are used in the textile production processes to the final product and to steer the suppliers towards the production of safe and legally compliant products.

The MRSL differs from RSL because it restricts hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing. So, it could be considered that MRSL is a more valuable tool because it restricts hazardous chemicals earlier in the

Figure: 100% avoid of RSL and MRSL is not possible in a real sense, but it is possible to regulate to an optimum level. Courtesy: business-reporter

today all manufacturers, brands, and retailers have their own Restricted Substances List (RSL) and Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL). It means there are enormous restricted substances which are being used in the textile manufacturing processes that are causing problems and ironically the sheer number of lists often works against their purpose to get rid of hazardous chemicals. Usually, MRSL and RSL lists restrict the use or existence of certain carcinogenic, mutagenic, reproductive toxic, endocrine disruptive and non-biodegradable chemicals and substances in finished textiles and apparels, footwear products, toys, electrical goods etc. What are RSL and MRSL? The core objective of the RSL and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

manufacturing process.

It is also a conjoint activity which definitely costs a significant amount. But in practical who will pay for this supply chain cleaning activity? Dyes and chemical suppliers say that day by day the cost of sustainable products will be higher. Again, China has great control on dyes and chemical market always, but recently many chemical manufacturing factories got shut down due to change of their government policy which affects the whole supply chain.

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On the other hand, RSL is a list of hazardous chemicals that are restricted below a certain threshold in finished textile products. Often it is given by the buyers and brands. Recently in his speech in a Textile Today seminar Prasad Pant, South Asia Director of ZDHC informed that according to the UN every 15 seconds in the world, a child dies from water-related disease. Textile Industry is known as one of the most polluting industry. There are lots of factories in the world where the wastewater which is discharged from a textile manufacturing plant is not treated enough to remove all these hazardous substances from going into the river. Chemicals have different impacts on our bodies. He explained that there are

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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial

chemicals which can be the reason for certain death. There are chemicals which can damage skin or cause irritation. There are chemicals which are now known as cancer-causing chemicals. The chemicals which we are producing are not limited to the area where we are producing but it is transported either through the water or through the air to various parts of the world even to the North Pole. Chemicals in the ZDHC MRSL include solvents, cleaners, adhesives, paints, inks, detergents, dyes, colorants, auxiliaries, coatings and finishing agents used during raw material production, wet-processing, maintenance, wastewater treatment, sanitation, and pest control. The RSL governs the outputs (finished product) to protect consumers. The reality of RSL and MRSL Now the question naturally arises, do the lists really helping? Practically it is seen that every buyer or brand, and initiatives like ZDHC have their own RSL and MRSL list which is creating complexity in the value chain for the garments manufacturers. Usually, dyes and chemical suppliers give the MRSL/RSL list to both buyers and manufacturers. Liaison offices of the buyers do their schedule check with the manufacturers. Reality is manufacturers produce a different range of products for different buyers at a time and most of the time they are not able to follow all the category of restricted substances. Supply of chemicals & dyes complying RSL and MRSL is critically important. If dyes & chemicals are not easily available and tracked well despite having interest textile manufacturers cannot comply. The most hazardous category is always in the priority list for both buyers and manufacturers but less hazardous substances are often ignored which pollutes the environment gradually.

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Restricted Chemicals

It is also a conjoint activity which definitely costs a significant amount. But in practical who will pay for this supply chain cleaning activity? Dyes and chemical suppliers say that day by day the cost of sustainable products will be higher. Again, China has great control on dyes and chemical market always, but recently many chemical manufacturing factories got shut down due to change of their government policy which affects the whole supply chain. On 7 August 2018 Textile Today organized a seminar on “ZDHC & Sustainability Implementation in Textile Industry” where ATM Mahbubul Alam Milton, Executive Director of Masco Group said, “Bangladesh textile industry is willing to implement ZDHC, Sustainability, RSL, and MRSL, but still we do not get enough support from the chemical suppliers and other business associates in true sense.” Which actually indicate that textile manufacturers need enough support from chemical suppliers as well as brands and buyers and also they should take the equal responsibility to clean up the value chain. Local government also do not

have the proper policy and MRSL/ RSL list for the manufacturers which also may help them from many certification and testing companies those are operating their activities in this regards which is tremendous costly for a factory. Whatever, this is increasingly important as most major brands are now insisting their stakeholders and partners conform to MRSL and RSL guidelines. Cases to think Some cases for a factory to think which also should be a concern of buyers. •D o you have enough infrastructure to maintain RSL and MRSL? •W hat ranges of products you are producing? •D o you have the necessary expertise to implement an MRSL or RSL? • Do you currently have relationships with the chemical suppliers that have the resources to demonstrate the quality of their chemicals? •W ill you need both an RSL and an MRSL in order to thrive in this new environment?

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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial

Buyers and consumers should support the manufacturers in these cases from the greater angle of sustainability.

4. E thically the apparel manufacturers should be sound to follow RSL and MRSL properly.

Effective ways of managing and following RSL and MRSL

5. R aise the awareness to follow RSL and MRSL at a different level (consumer, buyer, brands, chemical supplier and apparel manufacturers).

1. D yes and chemical suppliers should use the less hazardous ingredients in the final product. 2. An Apparel manufacturer can make a common list of RSL and MRSL for different buyers and brands. 3. The local government, business associations, trade groups, and non-governmental organizations should work together to achieve the RSL/MRSL target, thus save the business and environment.

The American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) have developed an RSL and it identifies the most restrictive iteration of that regulation worldwide. It is updated every six months and the latest version is made available for free to the apparel and footwear industry. ZDHC also developed and

published an MRSL with input from key stakeholders from the ZDHC member brands and chemical companies. This initiative demonstrates leadership and innovation and cuts across cultural and competitive boundaries. Conclusion 100% avoid of RSL and MRSL is not possible in a real sense, but it is possible to regulate to an optimum level. So, in this conjoint activity of cleaning the supply chain apparel manufacturers, chemical suppliers, brands, buyers, end users and also the testing bodies all should take the ownership to make the world more sustainable.

DyStar secures destruction of 3.3 tons textile dyes Desk Report carried out training, analyzed each of the seized product samples promptly, and took action over each infringing product by initiating court proceedings where there was no settlement.

Leading dyestuff and chemical manufacturer DyStar has been successful in securing the destruction of 3.3 tons of textile dyes that infringed one of its patents for reactive red dyes that were detained at Mersin Free Zones following DyStar’s customs application. The specialized Istanbul IP court subsequently granted a preliminary injunction order with the defendant agreeing to and the payment of compensation to DyStar before the court’s final verdict. DyStar informed that the destruction took place earlier than expected on September 18, 2018, as the defendant agreed to the destruction and payment of compensation to DyStar before the final verdict of the court. DyStar has now seized more than 100 tons of products deemed to infringe its patented stock since it introduced an anti-counterfeiting program in 2013. To implement

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Your Global Partner

the program Turkey has rapidly become one of the most successful jurisdictions. As part of the enforcement program, DyStar recorded its patents with Turkish customs,

Following this effective program, 50 custom suspension notifications were notified from four customs administrations, of them, DyStar filed 14 court actions for infringement of its patents. A total of seven nullity actions against its asserted patents were received as counter-attacks, and five of these cases have already been finalized – all in favor of DyStar. “We are a global leader in developing and providing new products, which are both cost-efficient and ecofriendly,” said Dr. Ulrich Weingarten, DyStar’s Director of global IP.

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Sustainable Reactive Dyes

DYECOL offers sustainable reactive dyes ranges focusing less liquor ratio and RFT Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd is exploring ways that can reduce the environmental impact of our clothes, primarily through the choice and use of materials and processes we use. A key area that has emerged within this research has been the way we dye fabrics, which can have huge impacts on water systems through waste and contamination – not to mention the fact that color is such a hugely important aspect of fashion. Dr. N.N. MAHAPATRA C.Col FSDC (UK), CText FTI (Manchester), FRSC (UK), FAIC (USA) Business Head (Dyes) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD. Thinking about the year 2020 AD and beyond, environmental requirements and related legislation will be the major driving force for innovation in both the dye manufacturing and dye application industries. The pressures on the coloration industry, and for that matter the whole chemical industry, from environmentalists are a disconcerting mix of good sense, passion and in some cases downright nonsense. Out of this heady brew, various legislative requirements have emerged with increasing regularity. In response, the industry has been and is being, forced to become increasingly innovative in order to develop new products and practices that are more environmentally friendly than the existing ones. Shree Pushkar &Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd is an ISO 9001:2008 & ISO 14001:2004 certified company and one of the leading manufacturers and exporters of dyes and dye Intermediates headquartered in Mumbai, India with a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility at Lote Parshuram, Maharashtra. “We are having a product range certified from ‘GOTS’. Our company is enjoying the privileged status of being a Government recognized ‘Export House’ from the last 15+ years. Recently we became a

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure : D. Balasubramaniam, Regional Manager (Dyes), DYECOL (from left 2nd); Punit Makharia, MD, DYECOL; Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Business Head (Dyes), DYECOL, also Consulting Editor of Textile Today at 19th TEXTECH Expo 2018.

bluesign® system partner and a ZDHC contributor.” With a customer-centric approach and diversified product portfolio of Reactive Dyes, Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilizers Limited has achieved an enviable reputation in widely spread domestic and global markets. We have a significant market presence in all demographics catering to the wide range of demands of quality sensitive customers. We value our customer feedback and continuously strive to enrich the customer experience. We are having a strong presence in the Indian market with its versatile ‘DYECOL’ reactive dyes range catering to more than 650

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customers in India through an efficient distributing network across pan India. Our products are being used successfully from last 15+ years for dyeing of woven, knitted, terry towel, yarn, hank, fiber and garments products. Our prime focus remains on developing and launching innovative products regularly either for new applications/end-products or resolving problems faced by customers in their existing process or end-products through. Our clientele comprises of global customers from Bangladesh, China, Turkey, Pakistan, Iran, Egypt, Brazil, Nigeria, Mauritius and many more. Shree Pushkar Chemicals &

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Sustainable Reactive Dyes

Fertilizers Ltd is one of the leading reactive dyes manufacturers who believe in sustainability, so new reactive dyes from DYECOL range are said to use less water and energy, and decrease processing skills in comparison to conventional dyes, in a bid to tackle environmental and sustainability issues of the textile wet processing industry. The dyes are in highly concentrated and crude form. It is also salt-free reactive dyes. It is called ‘Pure Dyes’. If you dye light-medium to dark shades using this dyes you have to use fewer dyes which means less salt, less soda and less washing and soaping process required. It will result in less effluent load. The new technology has replaced the outdated Vinyl Sulphone dyes and ME (Bifunctional Dyes). It is known as ‘Super Strength Reactive Dyes’. DYECOL SS reactive dyes (the new generation sustainable dyes) They are used for cotton fiber and yarn dyeing, knitted and woven fabrics dyeing. It is widely accepted by the Indian and international market. It is specially designed for exhaust dyeing. It is suitable for light, medium, and dark & heavy dark shades. It is also ‘GOTS’ approved. It is a new range of high tinctorial value, good robustness, extraordinary color value, unmatchable lab to bulk and bulk to bulk reproducibility. It is also very cost effective. Less chance of reprocessing of dyed lots. It increases the RFT percentage significantly. Following are the dyesTrichromy Dyes 1. DYECOL GOLDEN YELLOW SS 2. DYECOL RED SS 3. DYECOL BLUE SS Supporting Dyes 1. DYECOL LEMON SS.

5. DYECOL PINK SS. 6. DYECOL DK.BLUE SS.

2. DYECOL RED CEFT/DYECOL RED RR.

7. DYECOL NAVY SS.

3. DYECOL BLUE CEFT/DYECOL BLUE RR.

8. DYECOL ULTRA NAVY SS. All the above dyes are known as a dyer’s dream and all are GOTS approved.

DYECOL CELF reactive dyes (superlative sustainable reactive dyes)

DYECOL DR reactive dyes (highend sustainable reactive dyes)

1. A compact range for the complete gamut of shades with excellent reproducibility fastness levels & performance.

1. A compact range for deep and extra deep shades with costeffectiveness, excellent overall fastness, and

2. Excellent compatibility of the trichromatic dyes and excellent reproducibility.

2. Very deep shades attainable. 3. Dischargeable dyes range to cover all gamut. 4. Dyeing temperature 60 deg. and also dyeing with room temperature (40 deg.) with easy washing off. 5. With a low amount of dye. 6. Highly economical.

3. The very high degree of fixation (over 80%) and shorter washing off process save waterless dye in effluent reduced ecological costs. 4. Shade not affected by variation in process parameters. 5. Good penetration and leveling properties.

7. Good leveling & diffusion properties. 9. Meet today’s quality and fastness requirement.

6. Right, first-time performance for cold pad-batch (CPB) dyeing, continuous dyeing, and exhaust dyeing.

10. New state-of-the-art on tone buildup.

7. Shade continuity over longer lengths.

11. High tinctorial strength.

8. High fastness levels and robustness.

8. Short liquor ratio dyeing possible.

12. Top productivity and High reproducibility.

9. Compact flexible engineered molecules with high solubility even presence of salt and outstanding bath stability.

Trichromy 1. DYECOL G.YELLOW DR. 2. DYECOL DEEP RED DR.

10. F luorine chemistry especially high lightfastness.

3. DYECOL NAVY DR. DYECOL CEFT & RR reactive dyes (the all-round sustainable reactive dyes) 1. Robust dyeing system. 2. Excellent compatibility of dyes. 3. High fixation (over 80%).

11. Highest efficiency and productivity at optimized costs. 12. The highest level of the lab to bulk, so automatically boost production drastically (bulk to bulk).

4. Innovative chemistry.

Trichromy

5. High reproducibility and rightfirst-time

2. DYECOL RED CELF.

6. Excellent washing and wet fastness.

2. DYECOL ORANGE SS.

7. Less shading less diluent less contribution to the effluent.

3. DYECOL CHERRY RED SS.

Trichromy

4. DYECOL RUBY SS.

1. DYECOL G.YELLOW CEFT /

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DYECOL YELLOW RR.

1. DYECOL YELLOW CELF. 3. DYECOL BLUE CELF. Besides this range, we have a wide range of cost-effective Reactive Blacks along with Royal Blue and Turquoise Blues.

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REACTIVE DYES AND DYE INTERMEDIATES

Chemistry Behind Colors ZERO WASTE MANUFACTURING

DYECOL CELF DYECOL CEFT DYECOL RR DYECOL DR DYECOL SS

ZDHC SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD 301-302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Centre near Udyog Bhawan Sonawala Road, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 063, India MOB: +91 8657 4091 50, PHONE: +91 22 4270 2525 E-MAIL: nnm@shreepushkar.com WEBSITE: www.shreepushkar.com


Sustainable Chemicals

Why is the industry willing to adapt and pay more for sustainable solutions? FT Research Team For the wet processing industry, the regulatory pressures continue to pile on. There are ever-stricter enforcement of legislation on pollutant and effluent discharge and even harsher penalties for non-compliant behavior!

system for brands, retail companies and manufacturers from the textile chain who want to communicate their achievements regarding sustainable manufacturing processes to the public in a transparent, credible and clear manner.

In the recent article from ZDHC and Bangladesh PaCT, there is a call for a clearer breakdown of contaminants and chemicals discharge in textile wastewater. 50% and more is because of SALT! There has been growing environmental awareness, the consumer to is now more cautious and demanding to have transparent and promote environmental, socially beneficial and economical viable sustainable solutions. A recent article published 22th Oct 2018 from ECOTEXTILE reinforces this commitment to find and eradicate these hidden sources of hazardous textile pollutants. There are for a long time many rules and regulations set up by Europe and USA, which are playing an important role in

driving sustainability across the textile supply chain: CPSIA - Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act under the US Legislation IPPC - Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control - directive of European Union REACH - Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) is a European Union regulation. Step by OEKO-TEX - certification

Chemicals Discharged to Wastewater

␣ Soaping agents

3% 7% 4% 5% 3% 4%

␣ Others ␣ Dyes 50%

␣ Caustic ␣ Peroxide ␣ Enzymes

8% 13%

␣ Softner ␣ Acid ␣ Soda Ash

Source: Bangladesh PaCT (Partnership for Cleaner Textiles), ‘Feasibility Study for Setting Up CETP in the Konabari Cluster”, TWIC Report, 2016

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Bluesign system - a solution to promote sustainable textile production. It aims to eliminate the use of hazardous substances right from the beginning of the manufacturing process. Cradle to Cradle - Innovation Institute, a non-profit organization, administers the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard ETAD - an organization representing the dye and pigment industries to minimize the adverse impact of organic colorants on health and the environment.

␣ Salt

3%

GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standards ensure the organic status of textiles from the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labeling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.

Figure 1: Matex has successfully developed an ecofriendly process that omits salt addition during the dyeing process.

ZDHC Foundation – ZDHC and its roadmap to zero. A nongovernmental environmental organization mainly focusing on areas like MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) & Conformance Guidance, Wastewater Quality, Audit Protocol and Research.

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Megapro ECO Eco-Friendly Solutions

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Megapro ECO Choose Sustainability

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Are consumers like you, me and the Fashion/ Megapro ECO Apparel Industry/ Megapro ECO Eco-Friendly Solutions Eco-Friendly Solutions brands willing to incorporate sustainable cost while we source for better products? More recognition should be given to those Figure 2: Megapro ECO® hangtags. industry players who continue to demonstrate competence and Just to name a few, the textile wet a serious commitment to the processing industry and the dye/ sustainability agenda. chemical manufacturers continue www.matex.com.sg

Megapro ECO

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to fight and overcome immense key challenges! And there is a cost associated with it Dye/Chemical manufacturers continue to invest heavily to innovate to remain economically viable by introducing new products which are environmentally and economically sustainable, are able to increase productivity with less use of resources i.e. water savings of up to 50% and more, Energy savings of up to 50% or more, time savings of up to 25% and more. These new products are sustainable but, since there is an additional cost associated with it, the Dye/ Chemical manufacturers hope or rather expect that the industry can share part of these related expenses. The industry, on the other hand, is eager to adapt the sustainable solutions, however, when they realize that it will affect their competitiveness in a cutthroat business environment as well as dip into their profit margins, they become hesitant and prefer often to continue with the traditional/ conventional methods. There is an immense and intense competition in Fashion and Apparel Industry/brands for new products in shorter time intervals with more designs that are attractive, better performance, better quality, lower prices, and instant availability.

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The brands could use a differentiating price strategy to establish its product as a highquality product in the minds of consumers and encourage the industry players to adapt a common goal of sustainability. Matex International Limited, a Singapore listed specialty chemical producer has since launched its latest next-generation process solution Megapro ECO® for clean color science technologies. Megapro ECO® enables the dyeing of cotton without the need for salt additions. We at Matex, care immensely for our environment and are dedicated to assisting brands, retailers and industry partners to implement sustainable textile production that meets quality and eco-requirements making efficient use of our limited resources. Matex as a ETAD Member and bluesign® System Partner is

committed to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) to define and continue to work out Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) for the apparel and footwear industry. This latest innovation builds on its polyfunctional dyestuff range “Megafix® RE” cotton/ reactive which enables fabric and garment dyers to conduct low temp 40-degree dyeing. This range similarly targeted Energy Saving and Eco-Friendly conscious customers. Megapro ECO® uses EXISTING dyeing equipment and it significantly helps to reduce water, energy and time-related cost. Importantly with the aim to meet ever stringent environmental regulations like TDS (total dissolved solids), COD (chemical oxygen demand), BOD (biological oxygen demand) and color requirement levels from the wastewater effluent in accordance to ZDHC guidelines, enabling easier treatment and reducing overall effluent cost. Other benefits of adopting a no salt process can include but not limited to savings – •O n buying truck-loads/ transportation of salt. •F or loading/unloading i.e. labor cost related to salt. •O n storage spaces, which can be best utilized for other better economic returns. •A Modern Plant Setup.

Figure 3: Image of Textile Factory.

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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals

Huntsman is committed to provide sustainable dyes and chemicals FT Research Team Huntsman Textile Effects is the leading global provider of highquality dyes and chemicals to the textile and related industries. Sustainability, innovation, and collaboration are at the heart of what they do. Huntsman Textile Effects is committed to continuing to play a part in Bangladesh’s ongoing development as a sustainable producer of high-quality textiles and apparel. They use cutting-edge technology to develop solutions and create innovative products with intelligent effects such as built-in freshness, sun protection or stateof-the-art dyes which reduce water and energy consumption. All these go toward meeting the needs of the customers in supporting a more sustainable environment. With a presence in more than 90 countries including eight primary manufacturing facilities in seven countries (China, Germany, India, Indonesia, Mexico, Thailand, and Switzerland) and 14 formulation distribution centers across 12 countries, Huntsman Textile Effects is uniquely positioned to provide fast and expert technical service wherever their customers are based. Sustainability in the spotlight With the passing of the Textiles Bill, 2018, the Bangladesh Government is making a concerted effort to boost this vital sector of the economy. Consumers are increasingly aware of environmental issues, with younger people especially appearing to be more sensitive to how

Bangladesh Textile Today |

products are made. And brands and retailers are recognizing that their sustainability performance has to hold up to scrutiny, but also that it can be a platform for differentiation and growth. Facing up to the water challenge According to a press release, water.org estimates that as many as 4 million people in Bangladesh lack access to safe water. Salinization of the water supply is also a mounting problem due to factors beyond Bangladesh’s control, such as reduced water flow in rivers and sea level rise. Unfortunately, the textile industry is a huge consumer of water. It takes up to 100 liters of fresh water and a very high amount of energy to dye just a kilogram of cotton fabric. Even worse, much of this water ends up contaminated by the salt used to promote dye absorption. This saline wastewater is very difficult to treat. Another factor to consider is the increasing popularity of polyestercellulose (PES/CEL) blends

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for apparel and home textiles. Dyeing such blends is problematic because the different fibers need to be treated separately. With two separate dyeing processes, the overall dyeing cycle is much longer. This requires more dye, more salt and other chemicals, and more energy and water. Standard PES-CEL dyeing processes also use hydrosulphite, which is harmful to the environment and makes wastewater treatment even more problematic. As a major supplier of dyes and chemicals for the textile and apparel industry in Bangladesh and around the world, Huntsman Textile Effects invests heavily in innovations to meet these and other challenges. Said the release. With new color palette, AVITERA® SE is much more effective than before Among the most promising developments of recent years is the AVITERA® range of dyes. Compared to commodity dyes, the AVITERA® SE reactive dye helps mills reduce water consumption

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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals

by up to 50% with excellent reproducibility. These dyes are rapidly absorbed by cotton and its blends. They use less salt during dyeing and less water during the wash-off process. Furthermore, the wash-off process requires a temperature of about 60°C, instead of closer to 100°C for conventional washing-off, which helps slash energy consumption by up to 50% and CO2 emissions by up to 20%. This also reduces cycle time by 25% and therefore improves productivity. New disperse dyes To overcome the challenges of dyeing PES/CEL blends, Huntsman recommends TERASIL® W/WW disperse dye, used in combination with AVITERA® SE reactive dyes. Compared to conventional exhaust PES/CEL dyeing, the Huntsman dyes reduce the dyeing process time by more than 40% and eliminate the need for intermediate reduction clearing. This reduces water and energy use by around 50% while also providing, excellent fastness properties and outstanding reproducibility across the entire shade gamut. Huntsman’s innovation is supporting major trends of the industry The trend for textiles with more functionality continues to gather momentum. The increasing popularity of sportswear and the rapid rise of at leisure (that mix of “athletic wear” and “leisure wear” that is such a hit with the younger generation) is contributing to the growth in synthetic fabrics with builtin rain-, stain-, and sun protection. Huntsman’s technology makes it possible to produce fabrics with these properties using much more environment-friendly processes. Huntsman Textile Effects and The Chemours Company FC, LLC recently agreed to expand their long-term alliance in durable water repellence (DWR). By combining the strengths of both companies in innovation, technical support, and marketing, the expanded cooperation unlocks the full potential to develop

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environmental obligations, using fewer resources, and reducing operating costs. Innovative inks

Using these fabrics, apparel companies can penetrate new markets and become more competitive while meeting their environmental obligations, using fewer resources, and reducing operating costs.

As a dyes and chemicals innovator, Huntsman Textile Effects has been a pioneer in the digital printing sector and we continue to develop new solutions in collaboration with the print head and machine manufacturers. The choice of ink plays a major role in inkjet printing sustainability.

and deliver new, sustainable DWR solutions and chemistry. This is a win-win for textile mills and apparel producers. Take sun protection, for example. With our products and technologies, mills can create fabrics that protect the wearer from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays and also meet global standards for safe and sustainable textile production. The fabric is soft to touch and yet durable. Even long exposure to sunlight or multiple laundering will not degrade the protection or fade the colors. Using these fabrics, apparel companies can penetrate new markets and become more competitive while meeting their

Huntsman has an advantage in ink production because of our ability to innovate at the dye level, fully controlling the production of the dyes on which our digital printing inks are based. Huntsman inks undergo extensive physical and chemical testing. We also perform in-house jetting testing and work with equipment manufacturers to ensure the compatibility, performance, robustness, and sustainability of our ink solutions. Incorporating multiple innovations, our industry-leading NOVACRON® XKS HD range helps mills and print houses enhance their efficiency. It delivers superior performance on Kyocera printers, both scanning, and single-pass, and supports the industry transition to inkjet printing by delivering color quality and productivity.

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make The world 

Let’s

colorful...

Dyestuffs, Scouring Agents & Detergents, Dyeing & Finishing Auxiliaries and Printing Chemicals

corporation Ellal Chamber (10th Floor) 11 Motijheel C/A, Dhaka 1000

Phone : + 88(02) 9515971 Email : colorlink_corp@yahoo.com Mobile : 01711549275

www.clcbd.com


Sustainable Indigo

Sedo Engineering brings eco-friendly Smart Indigo™ technology for denim industry Usually, blue jeans are dyed with indigo for its fashion DNA that is insoluble in water and therefore cannot be used directly for dyeing. The processes used today consume a tremendous amount of chemicals, which pollute the environment. This high environmental burden should be stopped now. Smart-Indigo™ dyeing developed by Sedo Engineering will significantly reduce the ecological footprint by using electricity instead of chemicals. FT Research Team Sedo Engineering has developed Smart-Indigo™, a groundbreaking technique, which revolutionizes the Indigo dyeing process. This environmentally friendly process gives greater efficiency and savings in time and costs. Utilizing electro-chemical techniques, Smart-Indigo™ produces industrial scale “leuco” Indigo on demand. Why Smart-Indigo™ Every year over 15 billion meters of denim fabric are produced globally. Most of the production takes place in countries like China, India, Pakistan, Mexico, Brazil, Europe, Turkey, Middle East, USA, and Canada.

Figure 1 (L-R): Manfred Mentges, Sales Director, Sedo Engineering; S M Al-Masud, Managing Director, S M Engineering; Herbert Guebeli, General Manager, Sedo Engineering.

to different shades of blue. The famous blue indigo is a powder, which needs hazardous chemicals to make it water soluble for the dyeing process. After dyeing, tons of wastewater containing these

The demand for denim continues to grow. 66,000 tons of indigo powder is needed to produce 15 billion meters of denim fabrics

15%

13%

52%

7% 4%

9%

chemicals are discharged into the environment often without treatment. So, the denim industry needs an urgent solution to terminate or reduce this major pollution problem.

Rest of the world

USA and Canada

Europe, Turkey & Middle East

Mexico & Brazil

India & Pakistan

China

Figure 2: Denim fabric production worldwide.

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Sustainable Indigo

Production of Leuco-Indigo

Used power [MJ]*

1. Indigo pigment

Example:

120

6 times less CO2 produces for preparation of dyeing bath

100 80 60

14000 12000 10000 8000 6000

40

4000

20

2000 0

0

2. Caustic soda

Electrochemical dye bath preparation

Chemicla dye bath preparation

3. Water and 4. Electricity

18000 16000

160 140

Ecopoints 97 [Points]*

As a tremendous solution of denim dyeing, “Smart Leuco-Indigo” is produced in an electrochemical process consuming considerably fewer resources than existing methods, using only-

Figure 5: Savings of Smart-Indigo™

Raw Materials

Electrochemical Equipment

Reduced Indigo 10 until 30%

Indigo Pigment

4. Grid 5. Anode

Electricity

6. Anodic compartment Leuco-Indigo Solution

7. Cationic exchange membrane

Ready to be added in dyeing Baths

Caustic Soda + Water Figure 3: Production steps of Smart-Indigo™

In a fully automated process, the clean Leuco-Indigo is produced, metered and fed directly to the dye bath. The Smart-Indigo™ solution is the most sustainable way to dye denim. Chemical equation: Indigo + 2 e- + 2 Na+ Leuco-Indigo 2 NaOH – 2 e-  0.5 O2 + H2O + 2 Na+

• High sustainability The first machine is successfully in full production since last 1.5 years at Italdenim, Inveruno near Milan, Italy. Here in the figure-4: 1. Feeder electrode 2. Bed of particles 3. Cathodic compartment

3-Dimensional Carbon electrode Outgoing Leuco-indigo

Revolutionary Leuco-Indigo process opens up a whole new range of opportunities-

Outgoing oxygen

• Reduced health hazards • More ecological and economical • Better color consistency and performance • Easy to handle and more efficient Comparison of environmental impact Using electricity instead of chemicals in Smart-Indigo™ dyeing process significantly reduces the environmental pollution and energy consumption. • Less chemically contaminated wastewater • Reduce the cost of ETP • 6 times reduce energy consumption • 10 times less carbon footprint • No transportation ways A Smart-Indigo™ machine produces average 1 ton “leuco” indigo per day. A rough calculation says that the pay-back time of a Smart-Indigo™ machine is about 2.54 years which is incredible.

Ingoing Indigo suspension

Ingoing soda

Among denim manufacturers those who think of sustainability in a real sense, they should go with this Smart-Indigo™ technology.

Figure 4:The carbon electrode

78

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 11, Issue 11


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