Bangladesh
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ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 November 2018 www.textiletoday.com.bd
Volume 11 |
Issue 11 | 116 Pages |
BDT 150, USD 10
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Port sharing with India to bring woes to apparel exporters
Textile bill makes all textile and allied businesses mandatory to register under DoT U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
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Unveiling industry best practices Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
GOTS Approved Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS 3.0)
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GOTS Approved Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS 3.0)
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 Driving business with knowledge
Editorial Panel Editor in Chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim
SAVE ENERGY save money
Consulting Editor Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Managing Editor Akhi Akter Sub Editor Sanjoy Kumar Saha
Use ecofriendly energy saving
Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Rakibul Islam Al Takbir Mahim Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin Published on 6th December 2018 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd
Effective pretreatment of your knit fabric
Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka. The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. Š All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018 Volume 11, Issue 11 (November 2018) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.
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Bangladesh
Bangladesh
Driving business with knowledge
ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 November 2018 www.textiletoday.com.bd
Volume 11 |
Issue 11 | 116 Pages |
BDT 150, USD 10
17
Port sharing with India to bring woes to apparel exporters
Textile bill makes all textile and allied businesses mandatory to register under DoT
19
On the Cover
Content
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GOTS Approved Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS 3.0)
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Driving business with knowledge
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November’ 18 |
Cover Story
Volume 11 |
Issue 11
40 Waste Management Global textile industry waste management market to grow nearly 11% by 2021
38-39 Sustainable labels
Port sharing with India to bring woes to apparel exporters
12
Editorial
Safety standard improvement in BD RMG sector restores buyers’ confidence
18-20
Top Story
21
Cover Plus
All apparel manufacturing factories in the world should be monitored equally
24-26
Treaditional Textiles
Government to bring back the kudos of Muslin
Textile bill makes all textile and allied businesses mandatory to ....
27-28
30
Safety Today
Accord’s pressure is ongoing to extend their tenure
Exclusive Interview 31
Textile Bangladesh
Minimum wage for RMG workers to come into effect from December
32
News & Analysis
Changing landscape of cotton and textile engineering education ‘Sustainability is the issue where all of us focusing…’
Bangladesh’s RMG exports jump 20% in July-October
“bluesign® would like to offer its expertise and solutions for sustainable business model in Bangladesh”
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Trade and Biz
China keen to invest more in Bangladesh Indian cotton textile exports jump 26% in Apr-Sep
34-35 Will the US and European buyers reduce their sourcing from Bangladesh? How will be the global apparelsourcing pattern in the future?
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Content Factory Tales
November’ 18 |
Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals
45 Factory Tales-Editorial 63-65 Feeling delighted internally and externally
47-48
Green Manufacturing
Issue 11
Textile Icon
89
Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial
RSL-MRSL promise and reality
67-68
Volume 11 |
Sustainable Reactive Dyes
“If Germany or Turkey can do such amazing thing then why can’t we?”
Sustainable Technology
90-94
“Bangladesh steps ahead to replace exhaust dyeing with more sustainable,... Mithela Textile the first-ever LEED Platinum Certified woven dyeing factory ....
53-54
DYECOL offers sustainable reactive dyes ranges ....
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Sustainable Chemicals
Why is the industry willing to adapt and pay more .... How sustainability practices help Envoy Textiles Limited to go on top.
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Sustainable Manufacturing
How ACS Textiles turns sustainability into profitability?
56
Factory Tales
Sterling Group to set up apparel factory in Pabna EPZ Epyllion-M&S jointly organize tree plantation campaign to support ‘SDG-13’
58
Implementing Sustainability
Everlight & Evershine Enterprise organized a miniseminar on ZDHC Gateway
Dyes Manufacturing
95-96
73-74
Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals
Huntsman is committed to provide sustainable dyes and chemicals
76-78
Sustainable Indigo
Sedo Engineering brings ecofriendly Smart Indigo™ ...
Processing Today
81-82
Processing Today-Editorial
The design concept of ‘Bulk to Lab’ dyeing
84-88
Color Root is helping to increase products’ performance and reduce costs
Water Stewardship
APS Group sets new benchmark in Bangladesh in water conservati.....
Apparel Today
99-100 Apparel TodayEditorial QUALITY
REJECTS WARRANTY LONG CYCLE TIME LONG SALES LOST CUSTOMER LOYALTY
WASTE
HIDDEN FACTORY
LATE DELIVERY
Getting rid of “Hidden Factory”
102-103
Apparel Today
Scenario of African fashion industry
104
Apparel Brands
TWELVE for trendy and gorgeous dresses in winter
106
Apparel Today
Pakistan’s knitwear garment exports surge over 16% in October
108 Apparel exports to new markets rose by 42% in July- October of FY19
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Editorial
Safety standard improvement in BD RMG sector restores buyers’ confidence Bangladesh’s export earnings from the readymade garment sector, the lifeline of the economy, have seen a 20.08% rise to $11.33 billion in July-October period of the fiscal year 2018-19. The data came to notice during a time while the Mackenzie and Company’s report said that within the next 10 years, major brands and buyers from Europe and the United States can shorten their import of readymade garments from countries like China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam. Talking to Textile Today, the industry insiders given credit to the safety standard improvement, which restored buyers’ confidence on Bangladesh RMG sector to source apparel goods from here. The trade experts also have attributed US-China trade war for the sharp rise in export earnings from the clothing sector. According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data released recently, in July-October period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the readymade garment sector sent up by 20.08% to $11.33 billion, which was $9.43 billion in the same period last year. The sector has exceeded the export target set for the period. The earnings from the sector were 11.50% higher than the target of $10.16 billion set for the period. Of the total amount, Knitwear products fetched $5.88 billion, which is 17.83% higher than the $4.98 billion in the same period a year ago. Woven products earned $5.45 billion, up by 22.61%, compared to $4.45 billion a year ago. Among another major sector in the clothing category, export earnings from specialized and home textiles sector rose by 52.32% to $45.33 million and 3.37% to $270 million respectively Meanwhile, Jute and jute goods, the third largest export earners, registered a 16.28% negative
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Table: Export of RMG compared to total export of Bangladesh Export of RMG
Total export of
% of RMG’s to total
(In million US$)
Bangladesh (In million US$)
export
2010-11
17914.46
22924.38
78.15
2011-12
19089.73
24301.90
78.55
2012-13
21515.73
27027.36
79.61
2013-14
24491.88
30186.62
81.13
2014-15
25491.40
31208.94
81.68
2015-16
28094.16
34257.18
82.01
2016-17
28149.84
34655.90
81.23
2017-18
30614.76
36668.17
83.49
2018-2019
1133
1365
Over 83%
Year
(July-October)
growth to $289 million during the July-October period.
of the RMG sector will continue to rise, he added.
“Bangladeshi RMG manufacturers have improved the safety standard, which enhanced the buyer’s confidence and they are now placing more work orders. While US-China trade war help to bag more work orders as the buyers are shifting business from China, Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) President Abdus Salam Murshedy told the Textile Today.
“This is a peak season for Bangladeshi apparel manufacturers as the products for Spring-summer season were delivered, while Bangladesh has seen more work orders from the US buyers due to US-China trade war ” Bangladesh Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Senior Vice President Faruque Hassan said the Textile Today.
“While we are diversifying products and introducing technology to improve quality in grabbing the work orders shifting from China. As a result, export earnings from the apparel sector have seen a sharp rise”, said Salam, also a former president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).
On the other hand, Bangladeshi manufacturers are diversifying products and introducing the latest technology to improve quality and production. As a result, Bangladesh is now registering good performance in export earnings, said Hassan also Managing Director of Giant Group.
“Exports orders, especially RMG, from many US buyers are coming back to Bangladesh. Having this trade war in the world, Bangladesh’s share in the US total apparel export has risen to 6.46% from 6.41% in 2017,” said Ali Ahmed, CEO of Bangladesh Foreign Trade Institute (BFTI). China has already started removing or lowering tariff on many goods for Bangladesh, India and other countries. So, the export earnings
In grabbing the more market in the export markets, Bangladesh has to concentrate on increasing supplyside capacity as China is leaving its market share due to a rise in production cost, Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) Research Director Khondaker Golam Moazzem told the Textile Today. He also suggested attracting Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) from China so that Bangladesh increase its production capacity to meet the global demands.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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Cover Story
Port sharing with India to bring woes to apparel exporters Textile Today Research Bangladesh government’s decision to share seaports with India likely to bring woes to the apparel exporters as the capacity is still inadequate to handle the current export-import business of the country, business people apprehended. However, they think it would create more congestion at the port unless the capacity of the port is increased with required equipments and human resource. In September, Bangladesh Cabinet has approved the draft of a proposed agreement with India to allow it to use the Chattogram and Mongla seaports for transporting goods to and from its land-locked northeastern states. As per the
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very short span of time. As per the draft deal, the agreement of sharing port facilities with India will remain effective for five years with a provision of automatic renewal for another five years. But both countries can come out from the deal with a prior six-month notice.
Meanwhile, lead-time is a big concern for the export-oriented industry as it increases the production cost and some time has to bear airfare for the delay to meet the lead-time.
Why business people fear
proposed agreement, India would be allowed to use Chattogram and Mongla ports to carry goods to their northeastern states within a
For last one decade, Bangladesh’s economy has continue to grow and registered steady growth in export-imports, which pushed the GDP growth at 7.86% in the last fiscal year. On top of that, the country’s investments from home and abroad are increasing
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
gradually but the capacity of ports and transportation did not improve in line with economic growth. As a result, the country’s business community are fearsome about the government’s proposed deal of sharing the ports with India as the present capacity is not enough to handle the export and import business of the country.
Cover Story
Meanwhile, Bangladesh’s overall export earnings rose about 5.8% to $36.66 billion, which was $34.65 billion in Fy17. According to Bangladesh Bank
As the result, the port will see more cargo handling in line with the increased volume of export and import. So, it will likely to bring woes to the business community and, said Hassan, also Managing Director of Giant Group.
Meanwhile, lead-time is a big concern for the export-oriented industry as it increases the production cost and some time has to bear airfare for the delay to meet the lead-time. BGMEA Vice President (Finance) Mohammed Nasir said, “In Bangladesh, it takes about 45 days for execution of an export order, which is 10 to 12 days in China and comparatively less in other competitor countries.”
“There is still a shortage of required equipment at the Chattogram port, the principal port of the country, to handle the current export-import shipment. While the roads and highways are not in good shape to ensure smoother transportation of goods to the port,” Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) Senior Vice President Faruque Hassan told the Textile Today. On top of that, Bangladesh has to think about its target of $50 billion export target by 2021 and other economic vision. In the year to come, Bangladesh on track to see huge investment from home and abroad said Hassan.
“I think, it would not be a wise decision to allow India to share port facilities right now.”
Due to congestion at the Chattogram port, sometimes garment exporters have to ship goods by air, which costs a huge amount of money. While sometimes the manufacturers have
imports, while the imports for mega projects expedited the growth of import.
As the result, the port will see more cargo handling in line with the increased volume of export and import. So, it will likely to bring woes to the business community and, said Hassan, also Managing Director of Giant Group.
Table 1: Cargo handling at the Chattogram port to deliver export goods.
FY
Bulk (Metric tons)
Container
Total (Metric tons)
2014-15
35.80 million
13.13 million
48.94 million
“I think, it would not be a wise decision to allow India to share port facilities right now.”
2013-14
30.83 million
11.12 million
41.96 million
Export-import scenario at ports
2012-13
28.38 million
9.9 million
38.31 million
2011-12
9.4 million
26.74 million
36.18 million
2016-17
49.37 million
17.08 million
66.46 million
2017-18
66.39 million
19.38 million
85.77 million
According to Chattogram Port Authority, cargo handling at the Chattogram port to deliver export goods has increased by 6.25% to 7.14 million metric tons in the last fiscal year, which was 6.70 million metric tons in the fiscal year 2016-17.
to offer a discount on price due to delay in shipment, he added. Export-import growth As per the data of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh’s export earnings from the apparel sector stood at $30.61billion, up by 8.76%, in the last fiscal year, which was $28.15 billion in the fiscal year 2016-17. On top of that, in the first four months of the current fiscal year, Bangladesh exports earnings saw a sharp rise by over 20% to $ 11.33 billion.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
data, in the fiscal year 2017-18, Letters of Credit (LC) settlement reached at $51.53 billion, up 16.40 percent year-on-year. Investment in manufacturing increased
On the other hand, cargo handing in receiving imported goods and machinery has seen a 29.05% rise to 85.77 million metric tons in the
Table 2: Cargo handling in receiving imported goods at the Chattogram port. FY
Bulk (Metric tons)
Container
Total (Metric tons)
2014-15
304540
5.5 million
5.8 million
2013-14
325950
5 million
5.3 million
2012-13
432571
4.6 million
5 million
2011-12
317690
4.3 million
4.7 million
2016-17
313836
6.3 million
6.7 million
2017-18
116725
7 million
7.1 million
Volume 11, Issue 11
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Cover Story
FY18, which was 66.46 million metric tons in FY17. Meanwhile, in the last fiscal year, the number of foreign ships at Mongla Port stood at 784, which was only 282 in 2012-13 fiscal. While the number of containers was 43,000 in 2017-18, whereas it was 20,717 in 2015-16. How to get rid of port congestion “For ensuring a better supply chain for the country’s apparel sector, the inefficiency of Chattogram port, traffic congestions in Dhaka-Chattogram highway, lack of skilled human resources are key barriers for Bangladesh,” Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) president Abdus Salam Murshedy said to the Textile Today.
is moving towards massive industrialization, the government has to adopt the latest technology and increase equipment to cope up with the growing exportimports cargo handling, said Salam, Managing Director of Envoy Textile.
manufacturing industry especially the RMG sector. In the years to come, Bangladesh will invest hugely in the manufacturing industry, Former Caretaker Government Advisor Ab Mirza Azizul Islam said.
Due to delayed delivery, Bangladesh may lose its competitiveness in the global market and even can lose work orders, he said urging to improve port efficiency.
So, the import of capital machinery and other raw materials will see a sharp rise putting extra pressure on the country’s port capacity, said Islam.
Should we share port facilities with others? Since the inbound and outbound cargo handling is increasing rapidly, the government should not share the port facilities with India right now as it would increase the congestion at the port. So, it raised questions about the decision, whether it will be a good decision or not to share a port with India.
But the hope is the government has taken a good number of initiatives to remove the handless and it would be removed soon, said Salam a former president of BGMEA.
In the last fiscal year, Bangladesh registered a 7.86% GDP growth. This is because of country’s increased capacity in
As the country’s economy
Darrjeeling
In allowing to share port facility to India, the government has to increase the port capacity in line with the industries business volume first. Then after an impact assessment, the government can share otherwise it would be disastrous for the country, said the economist.
Road route
Siliguri
Guwahati
Lumding
assam Shillong
Darshana
If the government shares the port facilities with the Indian government, it will bring negative impact to the local business people especially the export-oriented sector, the economist said.
Dhaka 646 km 499 km
Mongla port
Agartala
Rail route Waterway Mark Road Route Agartala, Badarpur, Shillong, Guwahati, Siliguri, Kolkata: 1650 km Agartala, Dhaka, Kolkata: 646km Mark Rail Route Agartala, Badarpur, Lumding, Guwahati, Siliguri, Kolkata: 1590 km Agartala, Dhaka, Kolkata: 499km
Chattogram
Mark Waterway Kolkata-Mongla Distance: 194 nautical mile Speed: 10 knots, Day at sea 0.8
Figure: Map of Bangladesh and North eastern India showing the transit roots through roads, railways and waterways connections.
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
To p S t o r y
Textile bill makes all textile and allied businesses mandatory to register under DoT Textile Today Analysis Bangladesh parliament passed Textile Bill on September 12 that became an act with effect from October 1. The government has enacted the new textile law aiming to help the country’s textile and clothing sector flourish further with creating more employment
obtaining a trade license from the authorities concerned. At present, there is no obligation for buying houses to get registered with a supervising body or an association.
service so that entrepreneurs and investors get the required services including approval, clearance, and license within the shortest possible time.
According to the Bangladesh Garment Buying House
The proposed center will also help to implement projects related to
Association (BGBA), some 600 garment-buying houses are registered with the association. And an additional 400 to 500 buying houses are running their business across the country sans any affiliation with the trade body, according to industry people.
the textile and clothing industry and the formation and activities of the proposed center would be administered by the rules.
Courtesy: motj.gov.bd
and earn foreign currency. The law has empowered the Department of Textile with the sponsoring authority to provide all required services to the country’s textile and clothing industry in this regard. The Textile Bill also made it mandatory for all textile and its subsectors including primary textile, readymade garment, allied textile, and packaging and accessories manufacturers to get registered with the department for running their business in the country. Buying house owners for the first time would come under the department and they have to be getting registered with it to carry out their respective business. Buying houses play an important role in garment-export earning, as the majority of the apparel factories are dependent on them. A buying house currently can operate its business only by
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A move was initiated by the commerce ministry to bring the buying houses under regulation with work to frame a policy and a draft has also been prepared though it is yet to finalize and come into effect.
The law authorized the department’s director general to act as textile registrar and no textile and clothing industry would be operated without having its registration. The law empowers textile registrar to suspend or even cancel registration for giving wrong or false information while getting registered.
The main purpose of enacting the law is to help meet the local demand for apparel, increase export, generate new employment, attract foreign direct investment, introduce market demand-based curriculum for the textile sector to create skilled human resources. According to the law, there is a provision of setting up a one-stop
The entrepreneurs and investors would get registration within 60 days after filing applications. The other provisions included in the law is that authorized officer of the department would inspect textile industries to oversee whether the industries are running according to the standards mentioned during the registration. To achieve the objective of the
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
To p S t o r y
ďƒś
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new act, the government would take initiative to set up a required number of educational institutions including university, colleges, fashion institutes, and textile training centers. To maintain compliance, the designated officers of the textile department would be responsible to inspect the quality and standard of various elements used in textile products like paint and other chemicals. With the enactment of the new law, it is expected that the sector would flourish further with seeing an increase in investment and export earnings and the creation of more employment in line with the market-based demand. According to industry insiders and officials, some 8000 to 9000 textile and garment factories and their backward linkage industries have come under the umbrella of the department. They, however, opined that the number might be higher once all the factories come under its authorization. The department will look after factories of more than 15 associations including Bangladesh Textile Mills Association, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh Embroidery Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh Specialized Textiles Mills and Power loom Industries, Bangladesh Terry Towel and Linen Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh Knit Dying Owners Association, Bangladesh Hosiery Association, Bangladesh Sewing Thread Manufacturers and Exporters Association, Bangladesh Export Oriented Garments Washing Industries Owners Association, Bangladesh Textiles Mills Owners Association, Bangladesh Label Manufactures and Exporters Association, Institute of Textile Engineers and Technologist,
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new sectors under the department and its officials are working to develop the database.
Stakeholders especially apparel exporters, on the other hand, have no objection over the sponsoring authority role of the department, they expressed doubt whether it could facilitate all the required services or it would just add their misery by creating obstacles and another door of harassment.
Officials are in the opinion that the Department of Textile as the sponsoring authority will take any required measure aiming to facilitate and provide the required support to the textile and clothing industry. Stakeholders especially apparel exporters, on the other hand, have no objection over the sponsoring authority role of the department, they expressed doubt whether it could facilitate all the required services or it would just add their misery by creating obstacles and another door of harassment. Apparel makers and exporters opined that an entrepreneur has to take licenses from some 21 to 22 government agencies to start a business.
Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation, Bangladesh Textile Dyeing, and Printing Industries Association. Some 6502 units are registered with the DoT while a total of 527 were not registered till 2015, according to its official website. Out of them, 5840 textile and garment factories located in Dhaka division are registered with the DoT, 547 are in Chattogram division, 66 in Rajshahi division, 23 in Khulna division, 03 in Barishal division, 14 in Rangpur division and 09 in Sylhet division. The number will increase significantly with bringing some
And if the department can provide all the services under its one-stop service or single umbrella, it would help boost the sector otherwise add an additional point of suffering as it has been mandatory to get registered with a new door, they opined. The sector people have long been pressing for a single core authority to look into the issues and to coordinate all the related ministries, other agencies might be the challenge for the department in providing one-stop service, according to industry people.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Cover Plus
All apparel manufacturing factories in the world should be monitored equally Presence of Accord-Alliance in Bangladesh readymade garments industry is contributing in increasing of the manufacturer’s production cost immensely, though other rival country’s apparel industry is Accord-Alliance free. So, Bangladesh is facing more struggle in the global market. Akhi Akter The recent threat by Accord to declare 532 apparel factories ineligible to produce products for its signatory brands by 1 January 2019 is really a cause of worry to think twice about their objective. Not only that, in case of closure of Accord operation in Bangladesh by November 30, the European Parliament, the directly elected parliamentary institution of the European Union, passed a resolution on 15 November 2018. The resolution called upon the European Commission to review the preferential trade status of Bangladesh, claiming that the government of Bangladesh is violating the conditions set out by the Accord, the Sustainability Compact and the terms of their most favorable trade arrangement with the EU. The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh and the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety came here to monitor the readymade garments (RMG) factories following the Rana Plaza collapse that killed 1,135 workers on 24 April 2013. After around six years of the deadly accident, Bangladesh RMG industry is in a position that nobody has ever seen before. Alliance described the progress achieved in fortifying worker safety as “unprecedented and serves as a model for other countries to follow”. As a sovereign country, Bangladesh has own way and strategy to monitor its RMG industry’s overall safety condition. When it was necessary to take Accord’s help the government did not hesitate to take their
Bangladesh Textile Today |
● Green factory ● Trade union ● Workplace safety ● Wokers right ● Health
As a sovereign country, Bangladesh has own way and strategy to monitor its RMG industry’s overall safety condition. When it was necessary to take Accord’s help the government did not hesitate to take their help. Accord needs to understand they are still in Bangladesh, as the government wanted it and they have to leave Bangladesh by November 30, as the government wants it.
help. Accord needs to understand they are still in Bangladesh, as the government wanted it and they have to leave Bangladesh by November 30, as the government wants it. Accord should leave the country with respect to the government’s decision. And they
Volume 11, Issue 11
should not blame our millers or the government for their failure of completing their remediation tasks by November 30. A few days ago, a buyer said, “To this subject I can share my experience, seeing a lot of factories around Europe and other countries, nowhere I faced such a comprehensive and strict regulations regarding safety and securities as in Bangladesh. Nowhere had I seen more investment in safety then in Bangladesh.” Global compliance standards need to be established that way, as it does not vary from country to country, and in line with these standards. But we see compliance standards are not the same for all the rival countries. It is a question, asked by all millers of Bangladesh RMG industry, why is Accord-Alliance absence in our rival countries? Some answer that Rana Plaza disaster did not happen in rival countries so that they are not there, that means they are waiting for a similar disaster
21
Cover Plus
in other countries! What a silly excuse it is! Because this should be a moral proactive obligation, they should practice it rather than a disaster dependent reaction. To uphold their own credibility they should roll out similar programs to the countries involved in the textile supply value chain. Gradually millers getting less price Our RMG millers have invested immensely to ensure fire, building and workers safety, however, what did they get in return to their investment? Mark Anner, Director of Penn State University’s Center for Global Workers’ Rights, reported in a study released in March 2018 that brands are generally paying less for garments today than they did before Rana Plaza.
According to the report, the price of men’s and boy’s cotton trousers exported to the US (Bangladesh’s top garment export to the country) fell about 13% between 2013 and 2017. Similarly, the price paid for t-shirts exported to the EU (again, Bangladesh’s top garment export in that case) fell about 5%. External factors, such as cotton prices and exchange rates, could not account for the drops. Factory owners are thankful to Accord and Alliance for their help to make the Garments Industry great in every aspect of compliance. Their help has now become a strength for the industry as now Bangladesh has more compliant factory than before and now they deserve a better price to maintain this standard.
Factory owners expressed their wish that Accord and Alliance should manage their members to pay a fair price to the industry. At the same time, Accord and Alliance should take same working policies in regard to other competitor countries to have a fair competition in the Apparel Industries, as like as fair wage competition. “In light of the vast improvements that have been made regarding compliance across the apparel industry of Bangladesh since 2013, I believe that it is not unrealistic to expect customers to be prepared to offer better unit prices for products in recognition of what has been achieved over the last five years,” Mostafiz Uddin, Founder & CEO of Bangladesh Denim Expo, expressed in his recent write up.
Sanko orders 48, Saurer’s new generation of compact spinning machines Desk Report Saurer is supplying 48 ZinserImpact 72XL compact spinning machines with a total of 82 944 spindles to Sanko Textiles. The tradition-rich Turkish textile company is thus one of the first customers worldwide to use this new generation of machines. The internationally leading company has valued its relationship with Saurer, the ring-spinning specialist, for years. By choosing the new ZinserImpact 72XL, this successful company underscores its claim of being ahead of the competition. Sanko wants to further enhance its competitive advantage with Saurer’s most modern generation of ring-spinning machines. The 48 ZinserImpact 72XL machines, each with 1728 spindles, have been perfectly tailored to the spatial situation on site. This has resulted in an optimum ratio of production output per square
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Figure: Hakan Konukoƒlu, Member of board, Sanko Holding (4.f.l.), Gökhan Aydın, Strategy and Business Development Manager, Sanko Textiles (3.f.l.), Clement Woon, CEO of Saurer (5.f.l.) and members of the Saurer management team.
meter of production area. “We have been relying on Saurer’s leading technologies for years,” says Hakan Konukoğlu, Sanko Holding board member. He also added, “The new ZinserImpact 72XL is an important building block in our future modernization strategy.” The central FlexiDrive of the ZinserImpact 72XL ensures consistent yarn quality over
the entire machine length. The self-cleaning compact spinning technology, Impact FX, guarantees the most economical and top quality thanks to its constant compact power. The machines are equipped with the CS1 S premium spindle to further reduce noise emissions, vibrations, and energy consumption in the high-speed range. With its comprehensive range of applications, the ZinserImpact 72XL provides Sanko with a decisive flexibility bonus. For example, the Turkish trendsetter for innovative yarns is relying on the economical FancyDraft fancy yarn function to set itself apart in the textile markets with new creations. The new Zinser compact spinning mill will go into operation this year. Thanks to this forward-looking modernization strategy, Sanko’s machine suite is one of the most innovative and efficient in the world.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
T r e a d i t i o n a l Te x t i l e s
Government to bring back the kudos of Muslin Staff Correspondent We remember muslin as a glorious history of Bangladesh’s textile industry. Muslin lovers always wished for the revival of the glorious history of muslin. A good news for muslin lovers, the Executive Committee of the National Economic Council (ECNEC) approved over BDT 12 crores for the bringing back the glorious history of muslin. The approval came at a meeting of ECNEC held at NEC conference room on 11 Nov with ECNEC Chairperson and Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina. The Muslin story Derived from the name of the Indian port town Machilipatnam that was more commonly known as Maisolos in the ancient times, muslin is a cotton fabric of plain weave. Hand-woven from an uncommon and delicate yarn, it was found in Bangladesh and the Indian State of West Bengal and was exported to Europe for much of the 17th and 18th century. A favorite of the Romans, muslin was sought by merchants of the Roman Empire and subsequently reached other parts of Europe. During the 17th and 18th century, Mughal Bengal emerged as the foremost exporter of muslin in the world, with Mughal Dhaka as the capital of the worldwide muslin trade. During the Roman period, Khadi muslin was introduced to Europe
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Figure: The ECNEC approved over BDT 12 crores for the bringing back the glorious history of muslin. Courtesy: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muslin
The use of muslin is transparent throughout history. Muslin was frequently used by the Nawabs of Bengal. The first Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan used to send muslin to the Mughal emperor. The Emperors used to dress in a type of muslin called the Malma Khash and Nawab’s Badshas and Amirs wore it during summer.
and vast amounts of fabrics were traded. It became highly popular in France and eventually spread across too much of the Western world. The Portuguese traveler Duarte Barbosa described the muslin of Bangladesh in the early 16th century. He mentioned a few types of fabrics, such as ‘estrabante’ (sarband), ‘mamona’, ‘fugoza’, ‘choutara’, and ‘sinabaka’. Bengali muslin was traded throughout the Muslim world, from the Middle East to Southeast Asia. In many Islamic regions, such as in Central Asia, the cloth was named Dhaka, after the city of Dhaka. During British colonial rule in the 18th century, the Bengali muslin industry was ruthlessly suppressed by various colonial policies, which
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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favored imports of industrially manufactured textiles from Britain. William Bolts, a legendary merchant noted in 1772 that there were instances where ‘thumbs were cut off’ in order to stop the production of muslin. As a result, the quality of muslin suffered greatly and its finesse was nearly lost for two centuries. The use of muslin is transparent throughout history. Muslin was frequently used by the Nawabs of Bengal. The first Nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan used to send muslin to the Mughal emperor. The Emperors used to dress in a type of muslin called the Malma Khash and Nawab’s Badshas and Amirs wore it during summer. The growth of muslin was mostly during the Mughal period because of empress Nurjahan. She selected muslin for the Mughal harem. Muslin was also heavily imported by Europeans to make fine shirts, dresses, undergarments, and children’s clothing. Josephine Bonaparte was famously painted wearing a semi-sheer muslin gown. Noble ladies often dampened their muslin dresses to make their legs and other parts of their anatomy more visible. Leading the luxury league tables of Europe were the fashion tastes of the French. It principally revolved around silk, until muslin replaced it, especially under the patronage of Queen Mary Antoinette and Empress Josephine Bonaparte. In 1771, Caroline Powys - a friend of Jane Austen’s mother and a famous chef at the time - wrote of a family visit, “Never did three little creatures look so pretty; the two youngest in fine sprigged muslins.” When Edward VII, the Prince of Wales in 1875, came to Bengal, Sir Abdul Gani – the first Nawab of Dhaka – ordered 30 yards of the most superior muslin as a gift for the Prince. It is said that one yard of
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that fabric weighted only 10 grams! Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire, is credited with introducing gowns to the British. She sent a gift to Caroline Lamb, her niece, for her wedding with William Lamb. The gift was the finest muslin with lace sleeves. Soon after, British women were using a kind of muslin called Shor-bondo as scarves and handkerchiefs. By the late 17 century, merchants had brought muslin to America. It quickly became popular and was used frequently from weddings and party dresses to everyday items such as children’s clothes and
made from cotton. Cotton plant has been planted in Rajshahi University areas to manufacture the spinning yarn suitable for muslin cloth. Recently TextileToday team visited at BHB to know regarding the matter. Md. Ayub Ali, Chief in planning and implementation, said that “Once the weavers of this country made muslin clothes and it was their own technology. But that technology was lost many years ago. On 12 October 2014, the Prime Minister gave instructions on restoring our technology. Since then, we have started working on this.” In fact, the main objectives of this project are three: Firstly, restoring the technique of making muslin yarn and cloth through intensive research; secondly, producing muslin yarn and cloth experimentally and, thirdly, to restore the golden glory of muslin in the country.
In fact, the main objectives of this project are three: Firstly, restoring the technique of making muslin yarn and cloth through intensive research; secondly, producing muslin yarn and cloth experimentally and, thirdly, to restore the golden glory of muslin in the country.
Generally speaking, a typical Jamdani sari in today’s market has a cotton-count somewhere between 50 and 80. There are some that go up to a 100; about 120 is the peak. The cotton-count determines the fineness of the fabric. But now weavers have been well trained up to produce over 200 count yarns. The project on muslin has been running from July 2018 and will be ended by June 2021.
curtains. These fine striped, sprigged muslins were imported from India. Once upon a time, the muslin of Dhaka was world famous for its delicacy and thinness. They had a monopoly business during that time in Asia, Europe, North American, and the African region. Reviving Muslin According to the Bangladesh Handloom Board (BHB), under this project, cotton will be planted mainly for making muslin cloth. Later, the cotton cloth will be
Under this project, weavers of different areas of the country will be trained on the technology of making muslin yarn and cloth. To implement the whole project, weavers are prioritized in some areas. The areas are Dhamrai of Dhaka; Manikganj Sadar and Shibalaya; Nagarpur, Bhuapur and Madhupur in Tangail; Kapasia of Gazipur; Sonargaon of Narayanganj, Araihazar, and Rupganj; Narsingdi Sadar and Palash; Mymensingh Sadar; Chandina of Comilla; Bandarban Sadar; Khagrachari Sadar; Rangamati Sadar; Rajshahi city and Jessore Sadar.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
‘Sustainability is the issue where all of us focusing…’ Abdur Rashid, Country Manager of SGS Group
Abdur Rashid, Country Manager of SGS Group, is the first ever Bangladeshi Country Manager of SGS at such an early age. He revealed his success story and many other key issues in a recent interview. SGS is the world’s leading inspection, verification, testing, and certification company. It was recognized as the global benchmark for quality and integrity. With the philosophy‘when you need to be sure’- SGS started their glorious journey from 1974 in Bangladesh. In Bangladesh, SGS has two laboratories covering the consumer goods and retail sector – one is in Dhaka,
Bangladesh Textile Today |
founded in 2003, and another is in Chattogram, founded in 2012. With combined personnel of 278 people, these laboratories cover a wide range of products and services. SGS operates mainly in Dhaka, Chattogram and Khulna. Abdur Rashid, Country Manager of SGS Group, is the first ever Bangladeshi Country Manager of SGS at such an early age. He revealed his success story and
Volume 11, Issue 11
many other key issues in a recent conversation with Textile Today. Textile Today: You are a country manager of an international company that is really a great pride an example for young professionals. Please share us your success story of being the first ever Bangladeshi country manager of SGS at such a young age.
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Exclusive Interview
Abdur Rashid: First of all, for this role, I am very much privileged and happy for having the position of Country Manager in an international company like SGS. I think this is the biggest achievement of our entire SGS Bangladesh employee besides all of my personal achievement. Here the global companies see an important point of view for putting any people in the top management position of this type of global organization. They put that type of people on the position who will be able to manage the team both internally and externally. Therefore, this is the highlighted reflections of what SGS global management authority found confident that this team will be comfortably lead enough under my leadership and they put confidence on me that I will be able to manage such a big team in Bangladesh with 800 employees. On the other side, I am able to manage the SGS group’s expectation. So, I dedicate my success story to my 800 employees in Bangladesh. Textile Today: In Bangladesh, how are the significance of testing inspection and support services increased for the industry today? Abdur Rashid: Yes, I think a company like SGS and also other third party companies playing a great role in this sector of the apparel industry. If we look back at the beginning of the apparel industry, buyers do not get enough trust and confidence in the products of the industries of Bangladesh. They are not only untrusted on the integrity of the industry but also that time they feel lack of quality assurance on the apparel industry of Bangladesh. On the other side, apparel industry owners or management authorities did not
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see that SGS is changing their business pattern from inspection to testing to consulting in quality management to training. What would be the future approach?
know the buyer’s expectations correctly. Here SGS plays their biggest role to narrow the gap in that situation. We went to the factory and we use to conduct testing, inspection, and other audits. We help them where the gap is and how they overcome their problem by a continuous development. So, we work as a partner of their factory. Besides, we help the buyers to understand them that Bangladesh is developing gradually and also they have a positive mindset to rely on the apparel industry of Bangladesh. For that reason, in the last 35 to 40 years this industry has seen a turn around on such a bigger dimension that Bangladesh achieves herself as the second largest exporting country. So, we are proud of playing a big role in this sector. Textile Today: Nowadays business pattern is changing for different companies differently. So, on that side, I want to ask two questions. First, how the business pattern is changing for companies like SGS in Bangladesh? Another one is, we
Abdur Rashid: First of all, SGS’s core business is verification, testing, and certification. Our core business pattern has not changed at all. But the proportion of work here in the different sector might change over time. Once upon a time, in the early stages buyers’ keep their importance more on their inspection because those days regulation was not so strong. So, nowadays many NGOs and media’s are putting a great role to create pressure on the buyers and manufacturers to focus on regulatory issues. Besides this industry is more developed than before. So, visual inspection is decreasing and the requirement of testing is increasing day by day. So, that is the market dynamic which is changing in course of time according to the demand. Also in terms of audits, we find that social audit has been reduced and environmental and other security audits are increasing gradually. So, this is the changing we saw from SGS in terms of industry and global trends. Now, we have signed with ZDHC and we have approved to give training facilities for them. So, in terms of the business trend, we are thinking that sustainability is the upcoming issue where we are focusing. We also have a global research team and that helps us to give the proper knowledge on industry thinking and according to changes and trends we set our strategies and put our action plan properly.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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S a f e t y To d a y
Accord’s pressure is ongoing to extend their tenure Desk Report The Supreme Court extended the tenure of Accord, a European agency for factory inspection and remediation, till December 6 as its tenure will expire on 30 November. The apex court also fixed December 6 for further hearing on an appeal filed by the agency, Accord on Building and Fire Safety in Bangladesh. Earlier, Accord threated to declare 532 apparel factories ineligible to produce products for its signatory brands by 1 January 2019, in case of closure of its operation in Bangladesh by November 30. At the same time, the European Parliament, the directly elected parliamentary institution of the European Union, passed a resolution on 15 November 2018, which called upon the European Commission to review the preferential trade status of Bangladesh. They claimed that the government of Bangladesh is violating the conditions set out by the Accord, the Sustainability Compact and the terms of their most favorable trade arrangement with the EU. The European Parliament passed the resolution when the Government of Bangladesh and its Remediation Coordination Cell (RCC) have met the readiness conditions and these types of Responsible Business Conduct initiatives will no longer be needed. “The Accord´s safety inspection program is the only credible program in Bangladesh, without such there will be no way to ensure that the garment factories remain safe. Last June, during the meeting of the EU-US Bangladesh Sustainability Compact, it was also confirmed that the Accord should remain until such time as the
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Bangladesh government is ready to take over, which it currently isn’t,” said the resolution. However, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed said, “They (Accord) have no chance to remain here after November 30 as there is a High Court verdict in this regard. And we can’t go against the court decision.” With the intense situation, the minister suggested the BGMEA president call an emergency meeting involving all stakeholders immediately to take a decision in this connection. According to the Accord, in its five-year tenure that it has inspected more than 1,800 factories and identified more than 118,500 safety issues related to lack of fire safety, structural concerns, and electrical issues. According to its latest quarterly progress report out in April, the Accord said 84 percent of factory safety issues it identified in initial inspections have been reported or verified as having been fixed. As of a November update on its site, the Accord noted that 90 percent of remediation’s for safety issues have been completed where the ninety-seven percent
of Accord factories have removed lockable and collapsible gates, and 90 percent have adequate lighting in fire exists, but just 45 percent have installed fire detection and prevention systems. Accord Executive Director Rob Wayss recently told Reuters, “It’s in its infancy, they have just hired their staff, they really don’t have their systems in place, and their engineers need a lot of additional training just like ours did,” adding that safety fixes and more than 500 of the factories under the Accord remain incomplete. Many milers of Bangladesh apparel sector said that Accord should not blame millers or the government for their failure of completing their remediation tasks by November 30. The Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, a similar, albeit not legally-binding commitment to improving safety in Bangladesh, will withdraw its operations from the country at the end of this month. After the Rana Plaza collapse, the Accord was formed in 2013 with a five-year tenure to improve safety standards in Bangladesh’s RMG sector.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h
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Minimum wage for RMG workers to come into effect from December The minimum wage in Bangladesh is currently fixed at Tk. 8,000 that is increased from 5,300 since 2013. Desk Report The State Minister for labor and employment disclosed a gazette on November 26, 2018, on the new wage structure of apparel workers, which is going to come into effect from December 2018. The breakdown for the first grade shows Tk. 10,440 is the basic salary, Tk.5,220 house rent, Tk. 600 medical allowance, Tk. 350 transport allowance and Tk. 900 food allowance. In the case of the seventh grade (Entry level), the new minimum wage for garment workers is Tk. 8,000. Basic pay is Tk. 4,100, rent is Tk. 2,050 and Tk. 1,850 is for additional costs. The last increase in wages for workers in Bangladesh was made in 2013. The apprenticeship period has been fixed at three months. On
Table 2: Increase of minimum wages over the years Year
Minimum Monthly Wage
2018
8,000
2013
5,300
2010
3,000
2006
1,662.50
1994
940
1985
627
completion of the apprenticeship period, they will be employed in grades concerned as a permanent employee. The government has apparently followed the wage structure of the state-owned industrial factory workers to determine the new minimum wage for the garments workers.
Grade
Minimum Monthly Wage
Apprentice
5,975
Seventh (Entry level/Assistant Operator)
8,000
Sixth
8,405
Fifth
8,855
Fourth
9,245
Third
9,590
Second
14,630
First
17,510
Table 1: Minimum monthly salary has been shown in case of worker level.
News & Analysis
Changing landscape of cotton and textile engineering education
Cotton and textile engineering education’s landscape has been changing to better reflect the change and growth of the field. Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA Recently, a chat with Professor Gajanan Bhat, Chairperson of the Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors, at Athens-based University of Georgia (UGA) in his office clearly presented a picture on how the education in the field of fiber science and textile engineering has evolved and is changing. Interestingly, it is pleasing to report that the University of Georgia is celebrating 100 years this year of offering courses in textiles and clothing. With the ending of World War-I in 1918, University of Georgia created the Division of Home Economics that offered textiles course. Bhat stated, today UGA offers graduate degrees in polymer and fiber science and international merchandising. Undergraduate level education focuses on fashion merchandising and design in many institutes in the United States and Europe. Advanced level research and education focus on smart
science projects that concentrate on countermeasures to toxic chemicals, materials to enhance human health and protect the environment, such as cotton-based materials to absorb toxic oils. materials, polymer, and fiber science and management, showcasing that the focus has shifted from the traditional offering of textile engineering courses. The shifting of textile manufacturing in developed economies has forced this change, stated Gajanan Bhat, who has been in the textile academia for 29 years. While textile engineering has been one of the founding departments of Texas Tech University in 1925, fiber related advanced level degrees are offered through the Department of Environmental Toxicology and Plant and Soil Sciences. Students with textiles and fiber science backgrounds could get graduate degrees in the Department of Environmental Toxicology focusing on materials
Research areas in the UGA’s Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors focus on nano-cellulose, niche areas in manufacturing such as digital printing, bio-based plastics from algae, stated Professor Bhat. As with the case of the University of Georgia and Texas Tech University, the landscape of textile engineering education has shifted in its 100 years of offering the course so as to reflect the need and the nature of the field. But still, the field offers tremendous opportunities as there are emerging opportunities in integrating electronics with textiles, cost-effective biodegradable materials, taking cotton into next phase by infusing functional capabilities at the farm level, to name a few.
Bangladesh’s RMG exports jump 20% in July-October of 2018 Bangladesh’s export earnings from the readymade garment sector, the lifeline of the economy, have seen a 20.08% rise to $11.33 billion in July-October period of the fiscal year 2018-19. Staff Correspondent In July-October period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the readymade garment sector sent up by 20.08% to $11.33 billion, which was $9.43 billion in the same period last year, according to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data released today. The sector has exceeded the export target set for the period. The earnings from the sector were 11.50% higher than the target of $10.16 billion set for the period.
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Of the total amount, Knitwear products fetched $5.88 billion, which is 17.83% higher than the $4.98 billion in the same period a year ago. Woven products earned $5.45 billion, up by 22.61%, compared to $4.45 billion a year ago. “Bangladeshi RMG manufacturers have improved the safety standard, which enhanced the buyer’s confidence and they are now placing more work orders. While US-China trade war help to bag more work orders as the
buyers are shifting business from China,” Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) president Abdus Salam Murshedy said. As we are diversifying products and introducing technology to improve quality in grabbing the work orders shifting from China. As a result, export earnings from the apparel sector have seen a sharp rise, said Salam, also a former president of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Textile Today Question of the Month Recently Mackenzie and Company’s report ‘Is apparel manufacturing coming home?’ said that within the next 10 years, major brands and buyers from Europe and the United States can shorten their import of ready-made garments from countries like China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam. Though we are observing a reverse reality as the apparel export from Bangladesh is increasing significantly, this rise was also a prediction of Textile Today. According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), in July-October period of the current fiscal year, export earnings from the apparel sector jump by 20.08% to $11.33 billion, which was $9.43 billion in the same period last year. What do you think about the report?
Will the US and European buyers reduce their sourcing from Bangladesh? How will be the global apparel-sourcing pattern in the future?
Ahsan Mahmood Country Manager, Gina Tricot If we compare the present situation with the previous 10 years there are essential changes ensued in each area of our RMG sectors. Communications, sourcing, perfection of industrial units, excellence of merchandise, and TNA to ensure quality goods on time, all areas are now educated and these are the facts attract our retailers to come and place orders but other side and most importantly we are not yet speeding up our port and other areas to make sure faster logistic care. Now time to go ahead, think how to shorter lead-time, fast negotiation, different product category to take the challenge of the value-added product. If we ensure horizontal backing and steady political condition, the country has a huge opportunity at present and in future.
Mir Md. Mustafa Kamal DGM, Hoorain Htf Ltd The Mackenzie reports have a little distinction from reality as the market intelligence says a different story. Global brands are recreating and reshuffling their sourcing strategies and focusing on Bangladesh and South Asian countries due to low cost and more efficient options and leaving China which has lots of reasons including global political issues. Besides Brands are patronizing opportunities in African regions which is a matter of least 20-25years to get proper feedback. China is closing their vertical setups as well as American policy is also degenerating their apparel manufacturers and supplies due to negative business aspects and foreign policy issues with the USA. Therefore, alternative cheaper option is only Bangladesh as the first home for apparel and textile solutions although we have revised our worker wages yet it is still far behind from Vietnam or India. Market line and WTO reports say within next 10 years business will grow here in South Asian continent around 20-30% up from current status to ensure the Global demands.
Textile Today Question of the Month
Dr. Khondaker Golam Moazzem
Mohammad Nasir
Research Director, CPD
Vice President (Finance), BGMEA
The Mackenzie Company’s report is not good for us. As the second largest exporter, our growth is upward. Mainly there are two challenges, one is shorter lead-time and another is an online sale. As it is the era of fast fashion, so, buyers always want short lead time, low price and the right quality. After wages, buyers do not give more price. Now we should go for a new market, diversify our products and open online market. China is our new market, many Chinese investors are coming to Bangladesh and investing in various economic zones. Bangladesh needs to focus on improving productivity. We should increase our capacity in terms of quality and right time delivery for sustainable business.
I think this report is not fully right. As the second largest exporter our export is growing. Many EU and US buyers visit our factories and give the order. Our industry is now the safest and most of the green factories in Bangladesh. Our order is growing in terms of volume but price decrease. Our main challenges are gas, power, and infrastructure. Now buyer’s want better product worth’s with shortening lead time. We are going to a new market and branding our apparel industry. Besides as the market is competitive we should improve our skills and use modern technologies for sustainable business.
Mr. Fazlee Shamim Ehsan 2nd Vice President, BKMEA
The Mackenzie Company’s report is mostly right. Bangladesh’s RMG industry has taken massive initiatives to improve the overall compliance and safety issues after the Rana Plaza. Firstly, buyers come to Bangladesh due to lower price and better quality. In terms of volume, our order volume is increasing but buyer’s do not give us better prices. We need to respond to the changing of global trade dynamics with improving its production capacity by raising the backward-linkage industry, modern technology, skilled labor force, and market diversifications.
Tr a d e a n d B i z
China keen to invest more in Bangladesh The potential Chinese investors showed their keen interest to invest in jute, apparel, PSF, leather, ceramics, pharmaceuticals and some other sectors in Bangladesh. Staff Correspondent Chinese entrepreneurs expressed the zeal while visiting the Bangladesh pavilion at the first ever ‘China International Import Expo (CIIE) 2018’ held in Shanghai, China on November 5 to 10. About 3,000 business and government representatives from China and different countries were present at the opening session. Eight government organizations from Bangladesh took part in the expo for promoting investment in Bangladesh. Those are Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh Investment Development Authority (BIDA), Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA), Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA), Bangladesh Hi-Tech Park Authority (BHTPA), Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation (BJMC), Jute Diversification Promotion Center (JDPC) and Bangladesh Parjatan Corporation (BPC). EPB Deputy Director, Abu Mukhles Alamgir Hossain said the Textile Today, “Bangladesh took part in this gala event for utilizing the broad market access and other opportunities, provided by the Chinese government.”
Figure: China International Import Expo (CIIE) 2018. Courtesy: www.news.cn
He also informed that Deputy Minister for the commerce of Afghanistan and minister of Barbados visited the Bangladesh pavilion along with the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) Chamber secretary general and other dignitaries at the opening day of the fair.
people are very careful about the environment nowadays. We projected diversified jute goods, including jute leaf drinks and jute polymer bag,” he added. He concluded his speech by saying “The visitors were amazed to see Bangladesh’s Nakshi Katha, Jamdani Sharee, and diversified jute products.”
“Both the ministers highly appreciated the ongoing development activities in Bangladesh and showed a keen interest in pharmaceuticals, polyester staple fiber (PSF), apparels, leather and leather goods, and ceramics sectors,” he said. “In the exposition, we also focused on the jute sector as the Chinese
A five-member delegation led by Bangladesh ambassador to China M Fazlul Karim attended the expo. EPB director general Avijit Chowdhury, Joint Secretary to the Commerce Ministry AKM Ahad Ali Khan and EPB Deputy Director Abu Mukhles Alamgir Hossain took part as Bangladesh pavilion coordinators and delegation members.
Indian cotton textile exports jump 26% in Apr-Sep Desk Report The on-going trade war between the US and China has opened up new export opportunities for India’s cotton textile industry. According to the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil), exports of cotton textiles–raw cotton, yarn, fabrics, and made-ups grew by 26.8 percent worth $6,235 million compared to $ 4,917 million in the same period last year. At this moment, cotton yarn & 36
apparel exports. Though at the same time, exports of textiles and clothing declined by 3 percent with exports of readymade garments registering a steep decline of 16 percent during H1FY19. Figure: According to Texprocil, exports of cotton textiles–raw cotton, yarn, fabrics, and made-ups grew by 26.8 percent.
fabric exports account for over 23 percent of India’s total textiles and
However, the Indian government was in the process of putting in place alternative schemes to promote exports which would improve competitiveness.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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“bluesign® would like to offer its expertise and solutions for sustainable business model in Bangladesh” Md. Shahan Reza, Country Relation Manager, bluesign® System
The bluesign® system is the solution for a sustainable textile production. It eliminates harmful substances right from the beginning of the manufacturing process and sets and controls standards for an environmentally friendly and safe production. This not only to ensure that the final textile product meets very stringent consumer safety requirements worldwide but also provides confidence to the consumer to acquire a sustainable product. Md. Shahan Reza, Country Relation Manager of bluesign® System in a recent conversation with Textile Today shared recent activities of bluesign®, its contribution for sustainability in the textile industry and its future role in terms of Bangladesh’s perspective. Textile Today: Could you please tell us about bluesign’s main focus areas? Shahan Reza: The bluesign® system with its Input Stream Management is the solution for sustainable textile production. It eliminates harmful substances right from the beginning of the
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Textile Today: How is bluesign® contributing to sustainability in textile? Shahan Reza: Sustainability is a huge topic. In 2015, the Head of States and Governments and High Representatives, meeting at the United Nations Headquarters in New York, have decided on new global Sustainable Development Goals. These 17 Sustainable Development Goals and 169 targets goals should stimulate action over the next fifteen years in areas of critical importance for humanity and the planet. Out of those 17 goals, there are many which are very specific about the environment, workers’ safety, hazardous chemicals, responsible sourcing etc. These areas are exactly on which the bluesign® system focuses. The bluesign® system guarantees the application of sustainable ingredients in a clean process at which end stands a safely manufactured product. As a result, the textile industry manages the natural resources soundly and responsibly, reduces water and air emissions, improves its wastewater treatment and generally reduces its ecological footprint. With this holistic approach, the bluesign® system unites all partners of the textile industry to realize an environmentally friendly, sustainable textile production worldwide. Textile Today: What is the method bluesign® follows to implement sustainability? Shahan Reza: The bluesign® system unites the entire textile supply chain to jointly reduce its impact on people and the environment. Our goal is to link chemical suppliers, textile manufacturers and brands together to foster a healthy, responsible, and profitable textile industry. The unique combination of expertise in key segments of textile production such as chemistry, textile technology, environmental technology,
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Sustainable labels
countries in terms of climate change, water scarcity and environmental impact. If we do not act proactively, it is going to impact our future generation, even us probably within the near future.
and supply chain management characterizes our identity as a service provider. The most stringent criteria and monitoring of on-site implementation encourage companies along the entire textile value chain to improve their sustainability performance.
Globally bluesign® is in terms of chemical management considered to be the most technically advanced solution provider for sustainable textile productions. And so, bluesign® would like to offer its expertise and solutions to the respective stakeholders so that it can support the creation of a safer environment with a sustainable business model for Bangladesh. Textile Today: There are many certification companies in the market, how do you differentiate bluesign® with others?
“The bluesign® system unites the entire textile supply chain to jointly reduce its impact on people and the environment. Our goal is to link chemical suppliers, textile manufacturers and brands together to foster a healthy, responsible, and profitable textile industry.”
Shahan Reza: Providing certification is not the major goal of bluesign®, cleaning up the supply chain with its expertise and solutions is. The holistic bluesign® approach not only defines hazardbased threshold limits; bluesign® also performs for each chemical product and each individual substance exposure a scenario release and risk evaluation. Furthermore, the bluesign® system has the most stringent criteria in terms of ensuring the environment and chemical management.
Textile Today: Please explain bluesign®’s future role in terms of the Bangladesh context.
Shahan Reza: We should act to increase the level of awareness of customers so that they buy more and more environmentfriendly products. Which, by the way, from a holistic point of view is not always the more expensive product. We need to understand that, if the environment goes wrong, everyone will be affected. So, this is the time to share the same vision and mission to ensure a sustainable business model which will have the ultimate positive impact on the human and nature.
Shahan Reza: Bangladesh is a manufacturing-based country. RMG and leather are the two most important export sectors for Bangladesh. And these two sectors are among the three most polluting sectors in the world. Now, as a citizen of Bangladesh, I should be worried about the environmental risks which are being increasing day by day. Bangladesh is being considered as one of the most vulnerable
Volume 11, Issue 11
Textile Today: What you think is the effective way forward for ensuring safety for people and the environment as you have mentioned?
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Wa s t e M a n a g e m e n t
Global textile industry waste management market to grow nearly 11% by 2021 Desk Report
Percentage
Technavio’s analysts forecast the global textile industry waste management market to grow at a CAGR of nearly 11% during the period 2017-2021. The textile industry, which is very important for many countries in terms of trade, GDP, and employment rates, is known for its immense pollution and waste issues.
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In addition to addressing the issue of water scarcity, membrane technologies meet the sustainability criteria like the environmental impact, ease of use, land use, adaptability, and flexibility. However, there is still scope for improvement in terms of affordability and cost, energy consumption, and expertise. One trend in the market is rising patent filings. The global textile industry waste management market is witnessing increased expenditure by vendors on R&D activities, leading to product innovation and increased safety. In addition, the vendors in the market are working to reduce the cost of upgrades and maintenance, said the report. In terms of geography, APAC led Top global industrial waste management markets based on geography Americas APAC EMEA
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Textiles Glass Containers
6.6
Pet waste
27.9
Diapers and Sanitary Products
7
Renovation waste 7
Plastics Packaging Other waste
14.2
7.6
Textile industry waste management market driver According to the report, one driver in the market is improvements in membrane technology. Membrane technology plays a vital role in wastewater treatment. Some technologies like wastewater treatment using membrane reactors and desalination by RO are already being implemented in the industry on a large scale.
Metal Packaging
3 2.8
8.7
Packaging fiber
10.7
Paper Food waste
Figure : Global waste management market.
the global textile industry waste management market during 2016 and is anticipated to continue the dominion during the forecast period. Competitive analysis and key vendors The textile industry waste management market has intense competition among numerous well-established players. The global players in the market are widening the presence with their huge infrastructure and R&D support, and the regional vendors are finding it hard to compete based on reliability, technology, and price.
A3 Water Solutions Aquatech Aries Chemical Beckart Environmental Ecosphere Technologies Evoqua Water Technologies Huber Technology Netsol Water Solutions Primozone RWL Water WTE Infra Projects
Top vendors in textile industry waste management market ChemTreat General Electric Lenntech Pall Corporation Veolia Moreover, the manufacturers are coming up with marketing strategies based on the durability of the product, and competitive environment in the market will grow further with a rise in product or service extensions, technological innovations, and M&A activities. One challenge in the market is an economic slowdown in China. In 2015, devaluation of China’s
Other prominent vendors in the textile industry waste management market
currency, the renminbi, had a huge impact on the country’s textile sector. Owing to the devaluation of China’s currency, the country’s textile sector could sell highquality textiles at lower rates to the Indian market. The recent financial crisis taking place in China is likely to impact the global market, leading to a reduction in demand for textile machinery and textile industry waste management equipment. The country primarily imports capital and intermediate goods or raw materials from its neighboring countries and exports finished goods to final destinations with respect to demand, the report mentioned.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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Certificate Achievers Of Recently Completed Training Programs Of Textile Today Training
3 4 1 Certificate achievers of “Quality Assurance” under Factory Skills Development Training program of Textile Today Trainer Engr. Md Kawsar Alam Sikder , Chief Operating Officer of Fariha Knit Tex Ltd handed over the certificates to the Trainees`
3 Certificate achievers of “Trends & Techniques of Garments Printing” under Factory Skills Development Training program of Textile Today ; Trainer Mr. Monirul Alam , Sr. General Manager –Printing of Dysin Chem Ltd handed over the certificates to the Trainees
Transforming Human Capital
2 Certificate achievers of the workshop on “Human Capital Transformation: A financial Outlook of Business HR” by Textile Today . Trainer Mr. Eousup Novee DGM , HR & Operation , AVA CPN ( MNC ) . handed over the certificates to the Trainees
4 Certificate achievers of “Apparel Marketing” under Factory Skills Development Training program of Textile Today; Trainer Mr. Mezbahuddin, Executive Director of T & M Sourcing handed over the certificates to the Trainees.
NORTHERN TOSRIFA GROUP
November 2018 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 43 to 60
w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m
Mithela Textile the first-ever LEED Platinum certified woven dyeing factory in the world
How ACS turns or “IfTextiles Germany sustainability into Turkey can do such profitability?
amazing thing then why can’t we?”
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Hasib Uddin
Chairman APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.
How sustainability practices help Envoy Textiles Limited to go on top.
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ďƒś
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F a c t o r y Ta l e s - E d i t o r i a l
Feeling delighted internally and externally Tareq Amin Most of the business failures are mainly the result of communication failure as relationships fails for failed communication. Communication is critically important not only for external stakeholders it is critically important for internal people also. Medium to large sized textile and apparel companies and groups in Bangladesh have 5000 to 60000 employees which is enormous. One can easily understand the importance of internal communication to this enormous number of people working every day for the company. When Textile Today has been creating awareness on the importance of brand positioning and communication many companies asked why do we need this? As the factories are not selling the goods to consumers, why consumer awareness would affect them? Why they need to invest in branding and communication? Today there are few companies who see the benefits out of it and could secure a reliable position in the minds of their buyers and external stakeholders. But the best benefit they achieved is the confidence and reliability from the internal stakeholders. If someone compares two managements- a motivated and proud workforce of 60,000 people and a demotivated and confused workforce of 60,000 people, one would understand easily how the second management’s life is! When people inside the company take the ownership of the company it reduces risk and improves productivity of all aspects of the company operations. Every moment
Bangladesh Textile Today |
the employees themselves do branding for their company. A positive culture spreads all around and eventually the company achieves very good brand value to the external stakeholders also. Employee turnover is a great headache for such a gigantic workforce. If the company has good reputation and reliability to the internal people it can become a brand as good employer as well. Employees take pride on the company. But engaging and encouraging internal people are not easy. A dedicated focused effort needs to be taken to build this. A strong internal communication system is important for this. But it is more important to have external communication strategies. Branding and communication activities of a company to the external stakeholders have a great impact on the internal stakeholders also. A positive awareness on the company to the society comes back to its employees and vice versa as mentioned above. So, when a best practice story of company is covered by media and it reaches to thousands of external stakeholders it not only improve reputation of the company to those people it also gives huge boost to the motivation of internal people. While under Factory Tales section, Textile Today has been exploring best practice stories, we understood that many internal people of the company were not aware about the great thing their own company was doing. The people who are directly involved in setting global examples they themselves were not aware about the impact of their great job.
Volume 11, Issue 11
Due to the inside stories revealed by the Factory Tales Team of Textile Today many people working in those companies internally and many people working with the company externally could realize their roles in setting local and global best practice examples. Some of such stories have been revealed in the November 2018 issue of Factory Tales of Textile Today. We have revealed for the first time in media that a Bangladeshi company Mithela Textile is the first-ever LEED Platinum Certified woven dyeing factory in the world. The issue also revealed exemplary sustainable practices of ACS Textiles and Envoy Textiles. The current issue of Factory Tales by Textile Today includes three special segments- Special Supplementary on Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals, Processing Today and Apparel Today. For the first time FT Research Team has revealed that a Bangladesh company APS Group is setting a great example in reducing water consumption in exhaust dyeing of knit fabric. APS has set a new benchmark in water conservation. All these stories not only improve the reputation and brand value of these companies globally. These are also every moment going to make all internal stakeholders proud and motivated. So, FT media coverage is making many people delighted internally and externally. Today I am also feeling delighted to see the effect and impact of our new initiative Factory Tales- Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel. Be connected, be delighted!
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An initiative of Textile Today
Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...
The Team Tareq Amin Founder & CEO Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator SN Abdullah Mir Abdullah Al Mahfuz Research & Development
‘Factory Tales’ is an initiative of ‘Textile Today’ for ‘Branding Bangladesh Textile & Apparel’. The initiative is to investigate and explore positives and significant stories from sites of the industries. Articles, news & analysis, interviews, photo and video contents will be developed to highlight & promote best practices; product and process development stories; social and environmental contributions etc. of Bangladesh textile and apparel manufacturing companies.
Sanjoy Kumar Saha Engagement & Communication
Major Factory Tales Services are Nizam Uddin Shipan Head of Design and Branding
Brand Strategy Making (Identity & Positioning) Best Practice Story Building
Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing
(Marketing/Branding Story)
Brand Manual Making
(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand Materials and Websites)
Photography & Videography
(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)
Brand Communication- PR Services Yeasin Mia Graphic Design
Ashraful Alam Cinematographer
Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer
Riasad Rion Sr. Executive, Web & IT
Amenities of Factory Tales
Identical position in the industry
Buyer and consumer loyalty
Vantage in price negotiation
Employer Branding
New business possibility
Robust & sustainable business
Award on best practice
Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com 25 A (2nd Floor), Lake Drive Road, Sector 07, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh Tel: +88 02 55093682 Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748 Email: info@factorytalesbd.com, Web: www.factorytalesbd.com
Green Manufacturing
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
Mithela Textile the first-ever LEED Platinum Certified woven dyeing factory in the world
Mithela Textile Industries Limited (MTIL) has been successfully certified by the US Green Building Council for “Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design” (LEED) as the only green woven dyeing factory in platinum category. FT Research Team Bangladesh is the role model in the world for green industry and Mithela Group is a green and clean industrial model for the 21st century. A sister concern of Mithela Group, Mithela Textile Industries Limited (MTIL) is world’s first LEED Platinum Certified Green Textile factory in Bangladesh, established with world-class excellence in 2016 in Narayangonj. If a factory wants to pursue LEED certification, then it has to earn points across several categories. Based on the scores achieved, a factory then can earn one of four LEED rating levels: Certified, Silver, Gold or Platinum which score ranges are systematically 40-49, 50-59, 60-79 and 80 to 110 points where Mithela Textile Industries Limited secured 91 points. The world’s highest-rated green denim, knitwear, washing and textiles mills are all in Bangladesh. Of the top 11 LEED Platinumcertified factories, eight are from Bangladesh. So far, 67 garment
Figure 2: Azahar Khan, Chairman of Mithela Group and a Director of BTMA.
factories have achieved LEED certification. Of them, 17 are platinum rated and 37 are gold rated. Another about 280 factories are under the process for LEED certification. “Achieving the LEED Platinum certificate was not that easy, we had to go through a lot
Figure 1: Mithela Textile Industries Limited is the world’s first LEED Platinum Certified Green Textile factory.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
of hardship, challenges we’ve overcome and finally we did it. We have built a solid reputation and market leadership in this short span of time and over the foundation of quality, timely delivery, and top-class services,” said Azahar Khan, Chairman of Mithela Group and a Director of BTMA. With their superior mechanical equipments including one Osthoff-Senge Singeing m/c from Germany, one continuous bleaching m/c from Germany, GOLLAR Mercerizing m/c, MONOFONGS Thermosol Dyeing m/c, KUSTERS Pad Steam Dyeing m/c, MONOFONGS both gas and oil heated Stenter, two Warping, one Sizing and one Gas Generator with 1350 K wt. etc. for making different series of 100% Cotton Poplin, Twill, Canvas, RibStop, Satin, Sheeting, Cotton/
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Green Manufacturing
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Azahar Khan further added. Here the light and heat reflecting roof, air ventilation system, daylight, and machinery are the most energy saving. Another cooling feature we have is marvel stone floor. It saves traditional energy process like natural gas and electricity to tune about 68%. Its caustic recovery plant recovers about 90% of caustic soda used in mercerizing of fabric. Finally, MTIL is a factory model that could be followed by other factories of Bangladesh, especially those wanting to be sustainable and green.
Figure 3: MTIL produces the finer quality of fabric by using top-notch machinery.
Spandex Fabric which is made by Solid and Printed as per buyers requirements. The output reaches about 3 million meters each month. Mithela Textile Industries Limited has a futuristic design studio to show their new fabrics and real dummy samples to the buyers. This design studio is helping them to draw the attention of potential buyers easily. MTIL strictly confirms the ultimate reusable, recyclable and renewable principle. From its auto rice mill, they sources hash to generate steam from the boiler to provide to the factory process. This has enabled to expel the consumption of natural gas to the tune about 20,160 cubic meters every day. “Protection of the environment is our main operating philosophy and we are committed to
MTIL LEED Platinum score details Area of consideration
Obtained score
Sustainable sites
24 out of 26
Water efficiency
8 out of 10
Energy & atmosphere
33 out of 35
Material & resources
6 out of 14
Indoor environmental quality
10 out of 23
Innovation
6 out of 6
Regional priority credits
4 out of 4
Efficiency in water uses is another major feature here. They have 24 cubic meters capacity biological ETP where 50% of these water is retreated through ALTRA filter to reuse in dyeing, the rest 50% is a channel to irrigation and fisheries. It reduces consumption of water by about 55% as compared that often identical but non-green project.
protecting the environment through every move of our actions. The certifications will provide further impetus to the company’s sustainable journey and help it stand out from the competition,”
Oeko Tex-100, OCS and BCI accredited Mithela has world’s most sensible machinery to produce finer quality woven fabrics to supply directly to apparel manufacturer and to act as a latency fabric source for buyers and brands all who operate in the international markets across Europe, America, and Australia.
Efficiency in water uses is another major feature here. They have 24 cubic meters capacity biological ETP where 50% of these water is retreated through ALTRA filter to reuse in dyeing, the rest 50% is a channel to irrigation and fisheries. It reduces consumption of water by about 55% as compared that often identical but non-green project.
Figure 4: A snap of beautiful production floor at Mithela Textile Industries Limited.
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Sustainable Manufacturing
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
How ACS Textiles turns sustainability into profitability? ACS Textiles is a 100% British investment established in 2004. It is a name emblematic of trust and superior quality in Home Textiles. As a state-of-the-art composite manufacturing facility with weaving, dyeing, printing, finishing, and packaging services, all offered under a single expansive roof, ACS stands as one of the largest of its kind in the industry. FT Research Team ACS Textiles BD Ltd is an awardwinning environmentally conscious company, the company sets sustainability practices as the core of the business. The company found sustainability as profitability in different magnitude. Recently the company became first ‘Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals’ (ZDHC) contributor from Bangladesh to use their expertise to help create and develop ZDHC standards, tools, guidance, and training. Stockholm International Water Institute (SIWI) Award 2016 also awarded the company for outstanding achievement in sustainable water management and certificate of participation. While minimizing environmental impact, the company succeed to lower its cost of operation. Recently they received the GRS certificate
for their successful footprint in recycling.
to reduce further consumption by 45% up to the year 2020. The measures are described below-
Energy management to reduce electricity usage The company is minimizing its total energy consumption significantly. In 2017, they saved 37.07% of energy and set a target
1. T he company replaced fluorescent tube to LED tube light, already installed 4500 pcs of LED lights. 2. F or proper utilization of ‘daylight’, the company installed UV protecting fiberglass sheets. That eventually turned off 456 pieces of LED lights nine hours per day. 3. T hey have already replaced clutch motor by Servomotor in the sewing machine. Total 654 pieces of servomotor are installed that save up to 152064 KWH energy. For efficient electricity control, they have installed 60 pieces of PRI sensor that saves up to 21600 KWH of electricity per year. To reduce
Figure 2: Mission statement board of ACS Textiles Ltd.
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Volume 11, Issue 11
Sustainable Manufacturing
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
installed 3 sets of condensate recovery systems, thus about 90% of feed water for the boiler is reused at 85~94 degree Celsius, saving on consumption of water, chemicals as well as gas for burners.
the energy consumption in the office Air Conditioning system, they have installed three pieces of inverter controlled Air Conditioner with ECONAVI technology, which saves 50-60% Energy. 4. T he company also plan to install 300 KWh capacity solar panel by 2020 that will allow the company to reduce the carbon footprint significantly. Also, they have planted 900 trees in factory premises and the above measures in total reduce 72% of CO2 emission by September 2018.
They also have installed a heat exchanger in the exhaust of 5 generator engines for supplying hot water to the fabric dyeing section, thereby saving about 4 tons of steam that would have otherwise been required for the heating of water. One more waste heat recovery boiler is being ordered for utilizing heat energy from 4 more gas generators. In the dyeing machine, they have installed heat exchanger, drained
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Unused surplus and wasted sewing thread are sorted by color wise for reusing and spare threads are converted to solid color by in-house yarn dyeing facility.
Till 2017 they minimized 14.91% of water consumption and set a target to reduce 20% within 2020.
Till 2017 they have saved 34.57% of heat energy and set a target to save 40% within 2020.
Figure 5: Caustic recovery plant.
The company is converting pillowcase from waste cut pieces by in-house facility and finally rejected/wasted cut pieces are delivered to Dipu Enterprize (waste contractor) for recycling. All attendance register, leave register and others are maintained by software documentation and internal communication also conduct by mail instead of memo, and wasted papers are sent to Sonali Paper Mills for recycling by Rahat Enterprize (Waste Contractor).
Water and ETP Management
Process and heat energy management
Caustic recovery plant has been set, which can save up to 98% of caustic soda from the mercerizing process. This could save up to 330000 m3 of water per year. That means 66000 kWh energy saved in 2017. This process allows less TDS on ETP and less environmental impact and economic benefit for ETP management. The company has
reduce 49% within 2020.
Figure 4: Exhaust heat exchanger.
hot water after dyeing is supplied for pre-heating of feed water circulating through coils fitted in the feed water tank where latent heat of condensate is utilized. Waste management for ensuring reduce, reuse and recycle (3R) Till 2017 their 3R process reduced 5% of wastage and set a target to
ACS has established 24/7 fully functional biological ETP plant with Joseph EGLI Italia for ensuring efficient water and wastewater treatment by advanced biological treatment, water and wastewater reuse by membrane filtration and composting of biomass. The company is also harvesting a huge amount rainwater in the rainy season. In August and September 2018, they have harvested 624000 liters of rainwater. The company employs over 6000 people and average daily production capacity is 30,000 pieces of superior quality textile products. The products have found their market in European countries such as Italy, France, and the UK also in Scandinavian Europe with its design studio in Sweden for famous brands like HEMTEX, H&M, Sainsbury’s, Loblaws, Bed Bath N’ Table, Sodahi, Dorma, Laura Ashley, Hoie, Adiras, Descamps and Dunel etc.
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Volume 11, Issue 11
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
Green Manufacturing
How sustainability practices help Envoy Textiles Limited to go on top. FT Research Team Denim is a fast growing industry in Bangladesh and Envoy Textiles Limited (ETL) is a renowned and leading denim factory of the country. The factory is practicing sustainability in a different way and it is the first denim mill with rope dyeing technology in Bangladesh, received -2017 HSBC Sustainable Award. Sustainable Development Initiatives at ETL 1) Commitment to Sustainable Denim Development: Envoy is the 1st LEED Platinum Certified denim factory in the world. It addresses total and holistic ecosystem from the raw materials to finished products as well as it addresses the holistic approach to total ecosystem under its own operational area with stringent practice, incremental investment in machinery consuming less water and generate less Green House Gas (GHG), landscaping, ecological sustainability, sustainable and quality food chain for better health assurance for its workforce and best water use within its area. Our raw material is cotton, chemical, water, and energy mainly. But in each case, we ensure the best practice from the bottom -up. Our cotton comes from sources complying BCI (Better Cotton Initiative), OEKOTEX appendix-6 (finer), GOTS (Global Organic Textiles Standards) and CMIA. And we are going to complete the total procedure to ensure GRS and RCS certifications. This is our first stage of raw materials input where we have tried to ensure every possible
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Figure 1: Envoy is the 1st LEED Platinum Certified denim factory in the world.
standard. Moreover, we have successfully implemented “YESS” (Yearn Ethically Sustainable Sourcing). 71% of our cotton comes from sustainable material responsible sourcing. Our commitment to the quality product never goes unnoticed. Now ETL has become the contributor of ZDHC and committed to DETOX platform. These have ensured the green rated chemicals usage in the process that has admitted the level of impact on the environment and free of toxic chemicals in the product. So, in PURE project launched by GIZ, Germany and LIDL ETL achieved the highest Number in Bangladesh for Chemical Management after stringent evaluation of our chemical handling practices within our factory. Eventually, GREEN PEACE came to our factory to witness the extraordinary practices in the Environmental Management System (EMS) that becomes the part of our culture. The leadership of Envoy Textiles Limited for the Inception has
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ensured capital investment in the best possible echo-friendly machines and equipment. The thrive for the best possible process machines and Environment concern practices gave Envoy Textiles Limited a prestigious position in the world. Due to the best possible setup in Utility machines and equipment, it secured LEED PLATINUM as a first in the world. It secured the 3rd position from CPI 2 in carbon emission performance in the world. We secured one of the best scores in Higg Index 3.0 in Bangladesh. ETL is the first textile Factory in Bangladesh that has upgraded itself with ISO 9001: 2015 and ISO 14001: 2015 certification in the country. 2) Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP): ETL has established an ETP which runs round the clock to ensure that “zero discharges” are taking place in nature. Periodic chemical tests and other regulatory tests are also happening to ensure the quality of the discharged water is not harmful to nature. 3) Co-Generation of Power/
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Green Manufacturing
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
addition, to reuse the heat energy, we are using condensing recovery pump, Co-Generation system, VFD Compressor, which is remarkable,” he continued. “For water reduction, we use the lake for rainwater harvesting and over 30 million liters of water can be stored. Above 80% green chemicals are used at ETL,” he concluded. Sustainable Technologies:
look.
As per ETL management compared to the conventional denim dyeing process, it saves up to: 92% water, 87% cotton waste, 30% energy.
9) Employee welfare & CSR: ETL has established a pediatric ICU for burn injury at Dhaka Medical College Hospital (DMCH). For the welfare of employees, ETL is doing everything for their betterment.
Ozone technology is another term for sustainability which is applied in fabric processing. Save 40-50% water during fabric processing, reduce electricity consumption and reduce the use of chemicals.
Tauhidul Islam, Senior Manager, Compliance, said, “The Company has installed highly efficient and cost-effective biochemical ETP plant considering the water and energy sustainability aspects compared to other methods because of least operation and maintenance cost due to very low chemical consumption, low labor cost, less sludge treatment, and disposal cost as well as ecofriendly.”
Benefits are: Caustic soda is recovered, reduced chemical consumption for ETP neutralization, generation of hot water as a by-product, short payback.
“Instead of fluorescent light, ETL installed LED light, which saves 3% electricity cost. Moreover, we are saving 29% light energy by installing a transparent sheet on top of our production floor. In
As part of their sustainability practice, they arrange weekly meetings, in-house training to increase the awareness of the employees by using different innovative tools and means.
Figure 2: ETL is achieving almost 70% efficiency at its Co-Generation system.
Energy: Generally generator exhausts are discharged in the air as a waste product but they have taken an initiative to use this exhaust as an input for further energy generation. These exhausts are used as a heat source for boiler and chiller. Thus ETL is re-using almost 70% of the waste product with this Co-Generation concept. 4) Rain Water Harvesting: Rainwater of ETL are streamed towards an in-house lake and works as a resource for a fire hydrant and also as a source for toilet flash. ETL also build a separate plumbing system to use the lake water toilet flash. 5) Fish Cultivation: ETL cultivates more than 6 types of fishes in the in-house lake which sometimes also works as a source for food and on the other hand works as a site for angling competition. 6) Eco Park/Pond: ETL has an eco-park and pond within the factory premises with rabbits and duck. More species (like deer etc.) are in the process to come.
To avoid the effects of the hazardous chemical on the environment, they follow the international chemical mixing guideline strictly. And wearing safety equipment’s is a must for the workers.
7) Energy Efficient Building: Most of ETL’s factory shades are made with pre-fabricated reusable material and are designed in such a manner that natural lights can be used to the optimum level. 8) Scenic open space: Overall factory layout of ETL is designed with scenic landscaping and a substantial number of trees, plants etc. are in place to give a greenery
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Figure 3: ETL ETP runs round the clock to ensure right quality effluent discharge.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
F a c t o r y Ta l e s
Sterling Group to set up apparel factory in Pabna EPZ FT Research Team Sterling Group, one of the biggest names in Bangladesh’s garments industry, will invest US 15 million dollars to set up a readymade garments manufacturing factory in Ishwardi Export Processing Zone, Pabna. Sterling Classicwears Limited will produce 15 million pieces of garment items and create employment for over 5,600 workers, according to a press release of Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA). Siddiqur Rahman, Sterling Group Chairman, and Mohammad Faruque Alam, Member of BEPZA, signed an agreement on November 1, 2018, in this regard. With efficient management and experienced technical staff, Sterling began its journey with one factory in 1984 and by now it has made a remarkable progress in the global apparel and fashion world
Figure: Siddiqur Rahman, Sterling Group Chairman and Mohammad Faruque Alam, Member of BEPZA, signed the agreement on November 1, 2018. Courtesy Apparel Resources
and the group now consists of 4 units. Currently, it is manufacturing all sorts of woven bottom wears with a production capacity of 62,000 pieces per month; specializing in pants, shorts, barmudas, and skirts. The group consists of 9 companies: Sterling Creations Ltd,
Sterling Apparels Ltd, Sterling Denims Ltd, Sterling Laundry Ltd, Unicorn Sweaters Ltd, Sterling Stocks & Securities Ltd, Sterling Styles Ltd, and Bando Design Ltd. The company is now exporting to major retailers and brands, like Lee, H&M, Zara, GAP, C&A, Benetton and S. Oliver, located in the US, Europe, and Canada.
Epyllion-M&S jointly organize tree plantation campaign to support ‘SDG-13’ FT Research Team Supporting Sustainable Development Goals 13 (SDG -13) ‘Climate Action’, a joint CSR initiative has taken by Epyllion Group and Marks and Spencer, a leading international, multichannel retailer company. They organized a tree plantation program on 25 October 2018 at the industrial zone of Epyllion Group at Sailat, Gazipur. Total 500 different trees had planted by the whole Bangladesh office of Marks and Spencer including Country Head Shwapna Bhowmick; and Ethical Trade Manager, Lydia Hopton. Managing
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program including the high officials of Epyllion Group. As we are a UN Global Compact member, we always support Sustainable Development Goals. “Everyone is concerned about climate change, Marks and Figure: Managing Director of Epyllion Group, Reaz Spencer is one of them. Uddin Al-Mamoon and M&S, Country Head Shwapna As a socially responsible Bhowmick at the tree plantation program. organization, both organization expected to take Director of Epyllion Group, Reaz more joint CSR project in future,” Uddin Al-Mamoon; Director of said S.M Nazmul Ahsan, Manager Epyllion Group, Junaid Abu Salay (CSR), Epyllion Group. Musa were also present in the
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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Implementing Sustainability
Everlight & Evershine Enterprise organized a mini-seminar on ZDHC Gateway Staff Correspondent Evershine Enterprise in collaboration with Everlight Chemical Industrial Corporation (Taiwan) hosted a mini-seminar on the ZDHC Gateway aiming to raise awareness and inform end-users on Everlight’s firm commitment regarding the implementation of sustainable chemistry and best practices in the textile and leather industries to protect consumers, workers and the environment. The seminar was held on 23rd October at Hotel –X, Rajendrapur Chowrasta, near Dhaka. Md. Matiar Rahman, Managing Director, Evershine Enterprise, said, “Our mission is to support the government’s economic policies and actively nurturing technological as well as managerial talents, Everlight has engaged in fine chemicals production, facilitating the national economies and social welfare. Through international cooperation and worldwide marketing, Everlight contributes to global harmony and quality of life.” Sazid Rahman, Director, Evershine Enterprise, mentioned, “Evershine Enterprise, established in 1993, has been serving Bangladesh’s textile and leather industries as a faithful business partner for over two decades.” Prashad Pant, South Asia Director (ZDHC Program) congratulated Evershine for joining ZDHC and then he shared the views and objectives of ZDHC. He Said, “Do not confuse ZDHC with only zero discharge of chemicals in wastewater. It is one of the aims of ZDHC and it is more of a holistic program towards chemical management. ZDHC is an initiative for widespread 58
Figure: Sazid Rahman, Director, Evershine Enterprise speaking at mini-seminar on ZDHC Gateway.
approach to Sustainable Chemical Management which includes ‘Input’, ‘Process’ and ‘Output’. In each Focus Area, we establish industry standards and tools for implementation.”
Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) is a Joint Roadmap developed by a consortium of the world’s leading brands to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather and footwear value chain to improve the environment and people’s wellbeing.
The ZDHC MRSL is a list of chemical substances that should be banned from intentionally use by the industry in the production of textile, apparel, leather, and footwear. The ZDHC MRSL applies to chemicals used in facilities that process materials and trim parts for use in the industry, he said.
implementation of sustainable chemistry and environmental best practices in the textile, apparel, and leather and footwear supply chain through collaborative engagement, standard setting, implementation, and Innovative projects. First of all, we should know what we are going to eliminate.” Focusing the working procedures and different tools of ZDHC he said, “ZDHC is a holistic
Prashad said, “Greenpeace challenged the Brands to commit their entire Supply Chain to shift to discharge of Zero-Toxic chemicals across all pathways.” Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) is a Joint Roadmap developed by a consortium of the world’s leading brands to advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals in the textile, leather and footwear value chain to improve the environment and people’s wellbeing.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Te x t i l e P e o p l e
Apparel companies received BSAHRP HR excellence awards Staff Correspondent Bangladesh Society for Apparel HR Professionals observed its third anniversary on 16 November 2018 at hotel Sector Seven in the capital. More than 300 HR, admin and compliance professionals from renowned apparel industry attended the program. Textile Today was the media partner of the event. In the welcome speech, Sirajul Islam Azad, General Secretary, BSAHRP and General Manager (HR & Admin, Compliance), Bitopi Group said, “BSAHRP is now the identity and status symbol for most of the HR, admin and compliance professionals of the apparel sector.” We have emphasized the effective and sustainable training program with the very reasonable cost for all HR professionals of the RMG sector, said Azad. I believe that all HR professionals associate with BSAHRP keep supporting and contributing to its further development, added Azad. On the anniversary program, BSAHRP provided HR Excellency award to some apparel factories including DBL Group, Epyllion Group, Bitopi Group, Youth Group,
Figure 1: Manjur Morshed, Sr. Adviser, GIZ got lifetime award for his contribution of Textile Sector.
and Masco Group. BSAHRP also gave the award to its founder EC members for their contribution of RMG sector. Manjur Morshed, Sr. Adviser, GIZ got lifetime award for his contribution of Textile Sector. Md. Mosharraf Hossain, President of FBHRO said, “It is a special day for me, BSAHRP is one of the best platforms for HR professionals in Bangladesh.” “We need an HR minister for human resource development,” he added. On the anniversary, an MoU signed between BSAHRP & UIU for
Masters Course where BSAHRP members will get a special discount. “BSAHRP is an example of brotherhood, special tribe, and a harbinger of change in the RMG Sector. Very soon, we will update our website, build own office and establish training Institute and in future, we will establish BSAHRP University,” said Nur A. Khan, President of BSAHRP. I hope BSAHRP’s third anniversary is taking on unanimous expectations of HR professionals whose eyes are looking forward to new mission & vision collectively for the largest apparel sector development, added Nur A. Khan. He thanked all the participants, sponsors, partners for supporting the program. At the end of the program, BSAHRP members gave opinions and suggestions for further development of this organization. BSAHRP President, Nur A Khan, General Secretary, Sirajul Islam Azad, Executive member M.A Hashem, Shahin Mahmud answered general queries.
Figure 2: BSHARP celebrated its third anniversary.
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The Program was followed by a cultural program, Raffle draw & dinner.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
November 2018 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 61 to 78
RSL-MRSL promise and reality
Why is the industry willing to adapt and pay more for sustainable solutions?
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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial
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RSL-MRSL promise and reality Rahbar Hossain
Consumers are now very much conscious about using garments. Their consciousness driving the brands, manufacturers as a whole all vendors of full value chain about health, environment, and social safety. To comply with the customer demand,
MRSL is to avoid and control the substances that are used in the textile production processes to the final product and to steer the suppliers towards the production of safe and legally compliant products.
The MRSL differs from RSL because it restricts hazardous substances potentially used and discharged into the environment during manufacturing. So, it could be considered that MRSL is a more valuable tool because it restricts hazardous chemicals earlier in the
Figure: 100% avoid of RSL and MRSL is not possible in a real sense, but it is possible to regulate to an optimum level. Courtesy: business-reporter
today all manufacturers, brands, and retailers have their own Restricted Substances List (RSL) and Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL). It means there are enormous restricted substances which are being used in the textile manufacturing processes that are causing problems and ironically the sheer number of lists often works against their purpose to get rid of hazardous chemicals. Usually, MRSL and RSL lists restrict the use or existence of certain carcinogenic, mutagenic, reproductive toxic, endocrine disruptive and non-biodegradable chemicals and substances in finished textiles and apparels, footwear products, toys, electrical goods etc. What are RSL and MRSL? The core objective of the RSL and
Bangladesh Textile Today |
manufacturing process.
It is also a conjoint activity which definitely costs a significant amount. But in practical who will pay for this supply chain cleaning activity? Dyes and chemical suppliers say that day by day the cost of sustainable products will be higher. Again, China has great control on dyes and chemical market always, but recently many chemical manufacturing factories got shut down due to change of their government policy which affects the whole supply chain.
Volume 11, Issue 11
On the other hand, RSL is a list of hazardous chemicals that are restricted below a certain threshold in finished textile products. Often it is given by the buyers and brands. Recently in his speech in a Textile Today seminar Prasad Pant, South Asia Director of ZDHC informed that according to the UN every 15 seconds in the world, a child dies from water-related disease. Textile Industry is known as one of the most polluting industry. There are lots of factories in the world where the wastewater which is discharged from a textile manufacturing plant is not treated enough to remove all these hazardous substances from going into the river. Chemicals have different impacts on our bodies. He explained that there are
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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial
chemicals which can be the reason for certain death. There are chemicals which can damage skin or cause irritation. There are chemicals which are now known as cancer-causing chemicals. The chemicals which we are producing are not limited to the area where we are producing but it is transported either through the water or through the air to various parts of the world even to the North Pole. Chemicals in the ZDHC MRSL include solvents, cleaners, adhesives, paints, inks, detergents, dyes, colorants, auxiliaries, coatings and finishing agents used during raw material production, wet-processing, maintenance, wastewater treatment, sanitation, and pest control. The RSL governs the outputs (finished product) to protect consumers. The reality of RSL and MRSL Now the question naturally arises, do the lists really helping? Practically it is seen that every buyer or brand, and initiatives like ZDHC have their own RSL and MRSL list which is creating complexity in the value chain for the garments manufacturers. Usually, dyes and chemical suppliers give the MRSL/RSL list to both buyers and manufacturers. Liaison offices of the buyers do their schedule check with the manufacturers. Reality is manufacturers produce a different range of products for different buyers at a time and most of the time they are not able to follow all the category of restricted substances. Supply of chemicals & dyes complying RSL and MRSL is critically important. If dyes & chemicals are not easily available and tracked well despite having interest textile manufacturers cannot comply. The most hazardous category is always in the priority list for both buyers and manufacturers but less hazardous substances are often ignored which pollutes the environment gradually.
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Restricted Chemicals
It is also a conjoint activity which definitely costs a significant amount. But in practical who will pay for this supply chain cleaning activity? Dyes and chemical suppliers say that day by day the cost of sustainable products will be higher. Again, China has great control on dyes and chemical market always, but recently many chemical manufacturing factories got shut down due to change of their government policy which affects the whole supply chain. On 7 August 2018 Textile Today organized a seminar on “ZDHC & Sustainability Implementation in Textile Industry” where ATM Mahbubul Alam Milton, Executive Director of Masco Group said, “Bangladesh textile industry is willing to implement ZDHC, Sustainability, RSL, and MRSL, but still we do not get enough support from the chemical suppliers and other business associates in true sense.” Which actually indicate that textile manufacturers need enough support from chemical suppliers as well as brands and buyers and also they should take the equal responsibility to clean up the value chain. Local government also do not
have the proper policy and MRSL/ RSL list for the manufacturers which also may help them from many certification and testing companies those are operating their activities in this regards which is tremendous costly for a factory. Whatever, this is increasingly important as most major brands are now insisting their stakeholders and partners conform to MRSL and RSL guidelines. Cases to think Some cases for a factory to think which also should be a concern of buyers. •D o you have enough infrastructure to maintain RSL and MRSL? •W hat ranges of products you are producing? •D o you have the necessary expertise to implement an MRSL or RSL? • Do you currently have relationships with the chemical suppliers that have the resources to demonstrate the quality of their chemicals? •W ill you need both an RSL and an MRSL in order to thrive in this new environment?
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals-Editorial
Buyers and consumers should support the manufacturers in these cases from the greater angle of sustainability.
4. E thically the apparel manufacturers should be sound to follow RSL and MRSL properly.
Effective ways of managing and following RSL and MRSL
5. R aise the awareness to follow RSL and MRSL at a different level (consumer, buyer, brands, chemical supplier and apparel manufacturers).
1. D yes and chemical suppliers should use the less hazardous ingredients in the final product. 2. An Apparel manufacturer can make a common list of RSL and MRSL for different buyers and brands. 3. The local government, business associations, trade groups, and non-governmental organizations should work together to achieve the RSL/MRSL target, thus save the business and environment.
The American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) have developed an RSL and it identifies the most restrictive iteration of that regulation worldwide. It is updated every six months and the latest version is made available for free to the apparel and footwear industry. ZDHC also developed and
published an MRSL with input from key stakeholders from the ZDHC member brands and chemical companies. This initiative demonstrates leadership and innovation and cuts across cultural and competitive boundaries. Conclusion 100% avoid of RSL and MRSL is not possible in a real sense, but it is possible to regulate to an optimum level. So, in this conjoint activity of cleaning the supply chain apparel manufacturers, chemical suppliers, brands, buyers, end users and also the testing bodies all should take the ownership to make the world more sustainable.
DyStar secures destruction of 3.3 tons textile dyes Desk Report carried out training, analyzed each of the seized product samples promptly, and took action over each infringing product by initiating court proceedings where there was no settlement.
Leading dyestuff and chemical manufacturer DyStar has been successful in securing the destruction of 3.3 tons of textile dyes that infringed one of its patents for reactive red dyes that were detained at Mersin Free Zones following DyStar’s customs application. The specialized Istanbul IP court subsequently granted a preliminary injunction order with the defendant agreeing to and the payment of compensation to DyStar before the court’s final verdict. DyStar informed that the destruction took place earlier than expected on September 18, 2018, as the defendant agreed to the destruction and payment of compensation to DyStar before the final verdict of the court. DyStar has now seized more than 100 tons of products deemed to infringe its patented stock since it introduced an anti-counterfeiting program in 2013. To implement
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Your Global Partner
the program Turkey has rapidly become one of the most successful jurisdictions. As part of the enforcement program, DyStar recorded its patents with Turkish customs,
Following this effective program, 50 custom suspension notifications were notified from four customs administrations, of them, DyStar filed 14 court actions for infringement of its patents. A total of seven nullity actions against its asserted patents were received as counter-attacks, and five of these cases have already been finalized – all in favor of DyStar. “We are a global leader in developing and providing new products, which are both cost-efficient and ecofriendly,” said Dr. Ulrich Weingarten, DyStar’s Director of global IP.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Sustainable Reactive Dyes
DYECOL offers sustainable reactive dyes ranges focusing less liquor ratio and RFT Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd is exploring ways that can reduce the environmental impact of our clothes, primarily through the choice and use of materials and processes we use. A key area that has emerged within this research has been the way we dye fabrics, which can have huge impacts on water systems through waste and contamination – not to mention the fact that color is such a hugely important aspect of fashion. Dr. N.N. MAHAPATRA C.Col FSDC (UK), CText FTI (Manchester), FRSC (UK), FAIC (USA) Business Head (Dyes) SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD. Thinking about the year 2020 AD and beyond, environmental requirements and related legislation will be the major driving force for innovation in both the dye manufacturing and dye application industries. The pressures on the coloration industry, and for that matter the whole chemical industry, from environmentalists are a disconcerting mix of good sense, passion and in some cases downright nonsense. Out of this heady brew, various legislative requirements have emerged with increasing regularity. In response, the industry has been and is being, forced to become increasingly innovative in order to develop new products and practices that are more environmentally friendly than the existing ones. Shree Pushkar &Chemicals & Fertilisers Ltd is an ISO 9001:2008 & ISO 14001:2004 certified company and one of the leading manufacturers and exporters of dyes and dye Intermediates headquartered in Mumbai, India with a state-of-the-art manufacturing facility at Lote Parshuram, Maharashtra. “We are having a product range certified from ‘GOTS’. Our company is enjoying the privileged status of being a Government recognized ‘Export House’ from the last 15+ years. Recently we became a
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Figure : D. Balasubramaniam, Regional Manager (Dyes), DYECOL (from left 2nd); Punit Makharia, MD, DYECOL; Dr. N. N. Mahapatra, Business Head (Dyes), DYECOL, also Consulting Editor of Textile Today at 19th TEXTECH Expo 2018.
bluesign® system partner and a ZDHC contributor.” With a customer-centric approach and diversified product portfolio of Reactive Dyes, Shree Pushkar Chemicals & Fertilizers Limited has achieved an enviable reputation in widely spread domestic and global markets. We have a significant market presence in all demographics catering to the wide range of demands of quality sensitive customers. We value our customer feedback and continuously strive to enrich the customer experience. We are having a strong presence in the Indian market with its versatile ‘DYECOL’ reactive dyes range catering to more than 650
Volume 11, Issue 11
customers in India through an efficient distributing network across pan India. Our products are being used successfully from last 15+ years for dyeing of woven, knitted, terry towel, yarn, hank, fiber and garments products. Our prime focus remains on developing and launching innovative products regularly either for new applications/end-products or resolving problems faced by customers in their existing process or end-products through. Our clientele comprises of global customers from Bangladesh, China, Turkey, Pakistan, Iran, Egypt, Brazil, Nigeria, Mauritius and many more. Shree Pushkar Chemicals &
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Sustainable Reactive Dyes
Fertilizers Ltd is one of the leading reactive dyes manufacturers who believe in sustainability, so new reactive dyes from DYECOL range are said to use less water and energy, and decrease processing skills in comparison to conventional dyes, in a bid to tackle environmental and sustainability issues of the textile wet processing industry. The dyes are in highly concentrated and crude form. It is also salt-free reactive dyes. It is called ‘Pure Dyes’. If you dye light-medium to dark shades using this dyes you have to use fewer dyes which means less salt, less soda and less washing and soaping process required. It will result in less effluent load. The new technology has replaced the outdated Vinyl Sulphone dyes and ME (Bifunctional Dyes). It is known as ‘Super Strength Reactive Dyes’. DYECOL SS reactive dyes (the new generation sustainable dyes) They are used for cotton fiber and yarn dyeing, knitted and woven fabrics dyeing. It is widely accepted by the Indian and international market. It is specially designed for exhaust dyeing. It is suitable for light, medium, and dark & heavy dark shades. It is also ‘GOTS’ approved. It is a new range of high tinctorial value, good robustness, extraordinary color value, unmatchable lab to bulk and bulk to bulk reproducibility. It is also very cost effective. Less chance of reprocessing of dyed lots. It increases the RFT percentage significantly. Following are the dyesTrichromy Dyes 1. DYECOL GOLDEN YELLOW SS 2. DYECOL RED SS 3. DYECOL BLUE SS Supporting Dyes 1. DYECOL LEMON SS.
5. DYECOL PINK SS. 6. DYECOL DK.BLUE SS.
2. DYECOL RED CEFT/DYECOL RED RR.
7. DYECOL NAVY SS.
3. DYECOL BLUE CEFT/DYECOL BLUE RR.
8. DYECOL ULTRA NAVY SS. All the above dyes are known as a dyer’s dream and all are GOTS approved.
DYECOL CELF reactive dyes (superlative sustainable reactive dyes)
DYECOL DR reactive dyes (highend sustainable reactive dyes)
1. A compact range for the complete gamut of shades with excellent reproducibility fastness levels & performance.
1. A compact range for deep and extra deep shades with costeffectiveness, excellent overall fastness, and
2. Excellent compatibility of the trichromatic dyes and excellent reproducibility.
2. Very deep shades attainable. 3. Dischargeable dyes range to cover all gamut. 4. Dyeing temperature 60 deg. and also dyeing with room temperature (40 deg.) with easy washing off. 5. With a low amount of dye. 6. Highly economical.
3. The very high degree of fixation (over 80%) and shorter washing off process save waterless dye in effluent reduced ecological costs. 4. Shade not affected by variation in process parameters. 5. Good penetration and leveling properties.
7. Good leveling & diffusion properties. 9. Meet today’s quality and fastness requirement.
6. Right, first-time performance for cold pad-batch (CPB) dyeing, continuous dyeing, and exhaust dyeing.
10. New state-of-the-art on tone buildup.
7. Shade continuity over longer lengths.
11. High tinctorial strength.
8. High fastness levels and robustness.
8. Short liquor ratio dyeing possible.
12. Top productivity and High reproducibility.
9. Compact flexible engineered molecules with high solubility even presence of salt and outstanding bath stability.
Trichromy 1. DYECOL G.YELLOW DR. 2. DYECOL DEEP RED DR.
10. F luorine chemistry especially high lightfastness.
3. DYECOL NAVY DR. DYECOL CEFT & RR reactive dyes (the all-round sustainable reactive dyes) 1. Robust dyeing system. 2. Excellent compatibility of dyes. 3. High fixation (over 80%).
11. Highest efficiency and productivity at optimized costs. 12. The highest level of the lab to bulk, so automatically boost production drastically (bulk to bulk).
4. Innovative chemistry.
Trichromy
5. High reproducibility and rightfirst-time
2. DYECOL RED CELF.
6. Excellent washing and wet fastness.
2. DYECOL ORANGE SS.
7. Less shading less diluent less contribution to the effluent.
3. DYECOL CHERRY RED SS.
Trichromy
4. DYECOL RUBY SS.
1. DYECOL G.YELLOW CEFT /
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DYECOL YELLOW RR.
1. DYECOL YELLOW CELF. 3. DYECOL BLUE CELF. Besides this range, we have a wide range of cost-effective Reactive Blacks along with Royal Blue and Turquoise Blues.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
REACTIVE DYES AND DYE INTERMEDIATES
Chemistry Behind Colors ZERO WASTE MANUFACTURING
DYECOL CELF DYECOL CEFT DYECOL RR DYECOL DR DYECOL SS
ZDHC SHREE PUSHKAR CHEMICALS & FERTILISERS LTD 301-302, 3rd Floor, Atlanta Centre near Udyog Bhawan Sonawala Road, Goregaon (E), Mumbai - 400 063, India MOB: +91 8657 4091 50, PHONE: +91 22 4270 2525 E-MAIL: nnm@shreepushkar.com WEBSITE: www.shreepushkar.com
Sustainable Chemicals
Why is the industry willing to adapt and pay more for sustainable solutions? FT Research Team For the wet processing industry, the regulatory pressures continue to pile on. There are ever-stricter enforcement of legislation on pollutant and effluent discharge and even harsher penalties for non-compliant behavior!
system for brands, retail companies and manufacturers from the textile chain who want to communicate their achievements regarding sustainable manufacturing processes to the public in a transparent, credible and clear manner.
In the recent article from ZDHC and Bangladesh PaCT, there is a call for a clearer breakdown of contaminants and chemicals discharge in textile wastewater. 50% and more is because of SALT! There has been growing environmental awareness, the consumer to is now more cautious and demanding to have transparent and promote environmental, socially beneficial and economical viable sustainable solutions. A recent article published 22th Oct 2018 from ECOTEXTILE reinforces this commitment to find and eradicate these hidden sources of hazardous textile pollutants. There are for a long time many rules and regulations set up by Europe and USA, which are playing an important role in
driving sustainability across the textile supply chain: CPSIA - Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act under the US Legislation IPPC - Integrated Pollution Prevention and Control - directive of European Union REACH - Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) is a European Union regulation. Step by OEKO-TEX - certification
Chemicals Discharged to Wastewater
␣ Soaping agents
3% 7% 4% 5% 3% 4%
␣ Others ␣ Dyes 50%
␣ Caustic ␣ Peroxide ␣ Enzymes
8% 13%
␣ Softner ␣ Acid ␣ Soda Ash
Source: Bangladesh PaCT (Partnership for Cleaner Textiles), ‘Feasibility Study for Setting Up CETP in the Konabari Cluster”, TWIC Report, 2016
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Bluesign system - a solution to promote sustainable textile production. It aims to eliminate the use of hazardous substances right from the beginning of the manufacturing process. Cradle to Cradle - Innovation Institute, a non-profit organization, administers the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Product Standard ETAD - an organization representing the dye and pigment industries to minimize the adverse impact of organic colorants on health and the environment.
␣ Salt
3%
GOTS - Global Organic Textile Standards ensure the organic status of textiles from the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labeling in order to provide credible assurance to the consumer.
Figure 1: Matex has successfully developed an ecofriendly process that omits salt addition during the dyeing process.
ZDHC Foundation – ZDHC and its roadmap to zero. A nongovernmental environmental organization mainly focusing on areas like MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) & Conformance Guidance, Wastewater Quality, Audit Protocol and Research.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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Megapro ECO Eco-Friendly Solutions
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Matex has successfully developed an Eco-Friendly process that omits salt addition during the dyeing process. This innovation allows energy efficiency, reduces water consumption and environmental pollution. With Megapro ECO®, a solution to a sustainable and eco-friendly environment is chosen! Strategic Partner
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Are consumers like you, me and the Fashion/ Megapro ECO Apparel Industry/ Megapro ECO Eco-Friendly Solutions Eco-Friendly Solutions brands willing to incorporate sustainable cost while we source for better products? More recognition should be given to those Figure 2: Megapro ECO® hangtags. industry players who continue to demonstrate competence and Just to name a few, the textile wet a serious commitment to the processing industry and the dye/ sustainability agenda. chemical manufacturers continue www.matex.com.sg
Megapro ECO
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Matex has successfully developed an Eco-Friendly process that omits salt addition during the dyeing process. This innovation allows energy efficiency, reduces water consumption and environmental pollution. With Megapro ECO®, a solution to a sustainable and eco-friendly environment is chosen!
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to fight and overcome immense key challenges! And there is a cost associated with it Dye/Chemical manufacturers continue to invest heavily to innovate to remain economically viable by introducing new products which are environmentally and economically sustainable, are able to increase productivity with less use of resources i.e. water savings of up to 50% and more, Energy savings of up to 50% or more, time savings of up to 25% and more. These new products are sustainable but, since there is an additional cost associated with it, the Dye/ Chemical manufacturers hope or rather expect that the industry can share part of these related expenses. The industry, on the other hand, is eager to adapt the sustainable solutions, however, when they realize that it will affect their competitiveness in a cutthroat business environment as well as dip into their profit margins, they become hesitant and prefer often to continue with the traditional/ conventional methods. There is an immense and intense competition in Fashion and Apparel Industry/brands for new products in shorter time intervals with more designs that are attractive, better performance, better quality, lower prices, and instant availability.
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The brands could use a differentiating price strategy to establish its product as a highquality product in the minds of consumers and encourage the industry players to adapt a common goal of sustainability. Matex International Limited, a Singapore listed specialty chemical producer has since launched its latest next-generation process solution Megapro ECO® for clean color science technologies. Megapro ECO® enables the dyeing of cotton without the need for salt additions. We at Matex, care immensely for our environment and are dedicated to assisting brands, retailers and industry partners to implement sustainable textile production that meets quality and eco-requirements making efficient use of our limited resources. Matex as a ETAD Member and bluesign® System Partner is
committed to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) to define and continue to work out Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) for the apparel and footwear industry. This latest innovation builds on its polyfunctional dyestuff range “Megafix® RE” cotton/ reactive which enables fabric and garment dyers to conduct low temp 40-degree dyeing. This range similarly targeted Energy Saving and Eco-Friendly conscious customers. Megapro ECO® uses EXISTING dyeing equipment and it significantly helps to reduce water, energy and time-related cost. Importantly with the aim to meet ever stringent environmental regulations like TDS (total dissolved solids), COD (chemical oxygen demand), BOD (biological oxygen demand) and color requirement levels from the wastewater effluent in accordance to ZDHC guidelines, enabling easier treatment and reducing overall effluent cost. Other benefits of adopting a no salt process can include but not limited to savings – •O n buying truck-loads/ transportation of salt. •F or loading/unloading i.e. labor cost related to salt. •O n storage spaces, which can be best utilized for other better economic returns. •A Modern Plant Setup.
Figure 3: Image of Textile Factory.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals
Huntsman is committed to provide sustainable dyes and chemicals FT Research Team Huntsman Textile Effects is the leading global provider of highquality dyes and chemicals to the textile and related industries. Sustainability, innovation, and collaboration are at the heart of what they do. Huntsman Textile Effects is committed to continuing to play a part in Bangladesh’s ongoing development as a sustainable producer of high-quality textiles and apparel. They use cutting-edge technology to develop solutions and create innovative products with intelligent effects such as built-in freshness, sun protection or stateof-the-art dyes which reduce water and energy consumption. All these go toward meeting the needs of the customers in supporting a more sustainable environment. With a presence in more than 90 countries including eight primary manufacturing facilities in seven countries (China, Germany, India, Indonesia, Mexico, Thailand, and Switzerland) and 14 formulation distribution centers across 12 countries, Huntsman Textile Effects is uniquely positioned to provide fast and expert technical service wherever their customers are based. Sustainability in the spotlight With the passing of the Textiles Bill, 2018, the Bangladesh Government is making a concerted effort to boost this vital sector of the economy. Consumers are increasingly aware of environmental issues, with younger people especially appearing to be more sensitive to how
Bangladesh Textile Today |
products are made. And brands and retailers are recognizing that their sustainability performance has to hold up to scrutiny, but also that it can be a platform for differentiation and growth. Facing up to the water challenge According to a press release, water.org estimates that as many as 4 million people in Bangladesh lack access to safe water. Salinization of the water supply is also a mounting problem due to factors beyond Bangladesh’s control, such as reduced water flow in rivers and sea level rise. Unfortunately, the textile industry is a huge consumer of water. It takes up to 100 liters of fresh water and a very high amount of energy to dye just a kilogram of cotton fabric. Even worse, much of this water ends up contaminated by the salt used to promote dye absorption. This saline wastewater is very difficult to treat. Another factor to consider is the increasing popularity of polyestercellulose (PES/CEL) blends
Volume 11, Issue 11
for apparel and home textiles. Dyeing such blends is problematic because the different fibers need to be treated separately. With two separate dyeing processes, the overall dyeing cycle is much longer. This requires more dye, more salt and other chemicals, and more energy and water. Standard PES-CEL dyeing processes also use hydrosulphite, which is harmful to the environment and makes wastewater treatment even more problematic. As a major supplier of dyes and chemicals for the textile and apparel industry in Bangladesh and around the world, Huntsman Textile Effects invests heavily in innovations to meet these and other challenges. Said the release. With new color palette, AVITERA® SE is much more effective than before Among the most promising developments of recent years is the AVITERA® range of dyes. Compared to commodity dyes, the AVITERA® SE reactive dye helps mills reduce water consumption
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Sustainable Dyes & Chemicals
by up to 50% with excellent reproducibility. These dyes are rapidly absorbed by cotton and its blends. They use less salt during dyeing and less water during the wash-off process. Furthermore, the wash-off process requires a temperature of about 60°C, instead of closer to 100°C for conventional washing-off, which helps slash energy consumption by up to 50% and CO2 emissions by up to 20%. This also reduces cycle time by 25% and therefore improves productivity. New disperse dyes To overcome the challenges of dyeing PES/CEL blends, Huntsman recommends TERASIL® W/WW disperse dye, used in combination with AVITERA® SE reactive dyes. Compared to conventional exhaust PES/CEL dyeing, the Huntsman dyes reduce the dyeing process time by more than 40% and eliminate the need for intermediate reduction clearing. This reduces water and energy use by around 50% while also providing, excellent fastness properties and outstanding reproducibility across the entire shade gamut. Huntsman’s innovation is supporting major trends of the industry The trend for textiles with more functionality continues to gather momentum. The increasing popularity of sportswear and the rapid rise of at leisure (that mix of “athletic wear” and “leisure wear” that is such a hit with the younger generation) is contributing to the growth in synthetic fabrics with builtin rain-, stain-, and sun protection. Huntsman’s technology makes it possible to produce fabrics with these properties using much more environment-friendly processes. Huntsman Textile Effects and The Chemours Company FC, LLC recently agreed to expand their long-term alliance in durable water repellence (DWR). By combining the strengths of both companies in innovation, technical support, and marketing, the expanded cooperation unlocks the full potential to develop
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environmental obligations, using fewer resources, and reducing operating costs. Innovative inks
Using these fabrics, apparel companies can penetrate new markets and become more competitive while meeting their environmental obligations, using fewer resources, and reducing operating costs.
As a dyes and chemicals innovator, Huntsman Textile Effects has been a pioneer in the digital printing sector and we continue to develop new solutions in collaboration with the print head and machine manufacturers. The choice of ink plays a major role in inkjet printing sustainability.
and deliver new, sustainable DWR solutions and chemistry. This is a win-win for textile mills and apparel producers. Take sun protection, for example. With our products and technologies, mills can create fabrics that protect the wearer from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays and also meet global standards for safe and sustainable textile production. The fabric is soft to touch and yet durable. Even long exposure to sunlight or multiple laundering will not degrade the protection or fade the colors. Using these fabrics, apparel companies can penetrate new markets and become more competitive while meeting their
Huntsman has an advantage in ink production because of our ability to innovate at the dye level, fully controlling the production of the dyes on which our digital printing inks are based. Huntsman inks undergo extensive physical and chemical testing. We also perform in-house jetting testing and work with equipment manufacturers to ensure the compatibility, performance, robustness, and sustainability of our ink solutions. Incorporating multiple innovations, our industry-leading NOVACRON® XKS HD range helps mills and print houses enhance their efficiency. It delivers superior performance on Kyocera printers, both scanning, and single-pass, and supports the industry transition to inkjet printing by delivering color quality and productivity.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
make The world
Let’s
colorful...
Dyestuffs, Scouring Agents & Detergents, Dyeing & Finishing Auxiliaries and Printing Chemicals
corporation Ellal Chamber (10th Floor) 11 Motijheel C/A, Dhaka 1000
Phone : + 88(02) 9515971 Email : colorlink_corp@yahoo.com Mobile : 01711549275
www.clcbd.com
Sustainable Indigo
Sedo Engineering brings eco-friendly Smart Indigo™ technology for denim industry Usually, blue jeans are dyed with indigo for its fashion DNA that is insoluble in water and therefore cannot be used directly for dyeing. The processes used today consume a tremendous amount of chemicals, which pollute the environment. This high environmental burden should be stopped now. Smart-Indigo™ dyeing developed by Sedo Engineering will significantly reduce the ecological footprint by using electricity instead of chemicals. FT Research Team Sedo Engineering has developed Smart-Indigo™, a groundbreaking technique, which revolutionizes the Indigo dyeing process. This environmentally friendly process gives greater efficiency and savings in time and costs. Utilizing electro-chemical techniques, Smart-Indigo™ produces industrial scale “leuco” Indigo on demand. Why Smart-Indigo™ Every year over 15 billion meters of denim fabric are produced globally. Most of the production takes place in countries like China, India, Pakistan, Mexico, Brazil, Europe, Turkey, Middle East, USA, and Canada.
Figure 1 (L-R): Manfred Mentges, Sales Director, Sedo Engineering; S M Al-Masud, Managing Director, S M Engineering; Herbert Guebeli, General Manager, Sedo Engineering.
to different shades of blue. The famous blue indigo is a powder, which needs hazardous chemicals to make it water soluble for the dyeing process. After dyeing, tons of wastewater containing these
The demand for denim continues to grow. 66,000 tons of indigo powder is needed to produce 15 billion meters of denim fabrics
15%
13%
52%
7% 4%
9%
chemicals are discharged into the environment often without treatment. So, the denim industry needs an urgent solution to terminate or reduce this major pollution problem.
Rest of the world
USA and Canada
Europe, Turkey & Middle East
Mexico & Brazil
India & Pakistan
China
Figure 2: Denim fabric production worldwide.
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Sustainable Indigo
Production of Leuco-Indigo
Used power [MJ]*
1. Indigo pigment
Example:
120
6 times less CO2 produces for preparation of dyeing bath
100 80 60
14000 12000 10000 8000 6000
40
4000
20
2000 0
0
2. Caustic soda
Electrochemical dye bath preparation
Chemicla dye bath preparation
3. Water and 4. Electricity
18000 16000
160 140
Ecopoints 97 [Points]*
As a tremendous solution of denim dyeing, “Smart Leuco-Indigo” is produced in an electrochemical process consuming considerably fewer resources than existing methods, using only-
Figure 5: Savings of Smart-Indigo™
Raw Materials
Electrochemical Equipment
Reduced Indigo 10 until 30%
Indigo Pigment
4. Grid 5. Anode
Electricity
6. Anodic compartment Leuco-Indigo Solution
7. Cationic exchange membrane
Ready to be added in dyeing Baths
Caustic Soda + Water Figure 3: Production steps of Smart-Indigo™
In a fully automated process, the clean Leuco-Indigo is produced, metered and fed directly to the dye bath. The Smart-Indigo™ solution is the most sustainable way to dye denim. Chemical equation: Indigo + 2 e- + 2 Na+ Leuco-Indigo 2 NaOH – 2 e- 0.5 O2 + H2O + 2 Na+
• High sustainability The first machine is successfully in full production since last 1.5 years at Italdenim, Inveruno near Milan, Italy. Here in the figure-4: 1. Feeder electrode 2. Bed of particles 3. Cathodic compartment
3-Dimensional Carbon electrode Outgoing Leuco-indigo
Revolutionary Leuco-Indigo process opens up a whole new range of opportunities-
Outgoing oxygen
• Reduced health hazards • More ecological and economical • Better color consistency and performance • Easy to handle and more efficient Comparison of environmental impact Using electricity instead of chemicals in Smart-Indigo™ dyeing process significantly reduces the environmental pollution and energy consumption. • Less chemically contaminated wastewater • Reduce the cost of ETP • 6 times reduce energy consumption • 10 times less carbon footprint • No transportation ways A Smart-Indigo™ machine produces average 1 ton “leuco” indigo per day. A rough calculation says that the pay-back time of a Smart-Indigo™ machine is about 2.54 years which is incredible.
Ingoing Indigo suspension
Ingoing soda
Among denim manufacturers those who think of sustainability in a real sense, they should go with this Smart-Indigo™ technology.
Figure 4:The carbon electrode
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s
Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing Nove mber 2018
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 79 to 96
APS Group sets new benchmark in Bangladesh in water conservation in exhaust dyeing
The design concept of ‘Bulk to Lab’ dyeing
U n ve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p r a c t i c e s
“Bangladesh steps ahead to replace exhaust dyeing with more sustainable, economical and better quality production CPB dyeing”
Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
Save Energy Ecological Reduce Emission Environmental Friendly
Global Leader in the Manufacturer of Dyestuffs and Intermediates
Global Leader in the Manufacturer of Dyestuffs and Intermediates
Liyuansol Classic for Cellulose Liyuansol BLF Series for Better Lightfastness Liyuansol HS Series for Deep Shade along with excellent RFT Liyuansol FL Series for Top Lightfastness (PLF)
We are on our way-
Address: House-11 (5th Floor), Road-07, Sector-12, Uttara Model Town, Dhaka-1230 Tel: +88 01713 027506, +88 01708 539402 Email: dndchem@yahoo.com, info@dndchem.com
Room - 501, Unit-7, Oceanwide International SOHO Town, Huaihai Road, Jianghan District , Wuhan City, Hubei Province, 430000, China Tel: 0086-27-88185025 | Fax: 0086-27-88185276
P r o c e s s i n g To d a y - E d i t o r i a l
The design concept of ‘Bulk to Lab’ dyeing Although dyers nowadays rely mostly on ‘Lab to Bulk’ through trial and error basis, it makes things difficult to maintain and achieving RFT resulting an increase in cost. Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed, Head of Technical Support, Taiwan Persotex Corporation Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today Right First Time (RFT) means achieving the desired color and quality in dyeing at once as per the standard operating processes predefined. Most of the cases it’s not easy to match all the batches maintaining RFT as there are numerous factors that affect the performance of dyeing. And that’s why the dye-houses suffer for increasing RFT. When generally prices of processing are going down and the cost is increased when the dyer miss the RFT of the batch that for sure will incur losses for the company. The laboratory has a great role in setting and achieving RFT. Usually, labs in dye-houses are used for generating lab recipes (usually called as Lab Dip), color control, incoming raw materials quality control, in line and of line quality control etc. But for sure generating recipe for dyeing is one of the core objectives of the labs. However, it’s been well accepted that there are potential differences in bulk and lab dyeing conditions and so dyers on the floors don’t rely on the laboratory recipe much. Most of the time the dyeing experts tries to adjust the less reliable lab recipe from their experiences and go through some sort of trial and error process in the bulk for setting a reliable bulk recipe which will give 100% RFT. By this way traditionally the companies try to improve the ‘Lab to Bulk’ recipe and RFT. But such approach has its limitation by its design. The trial and error
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Figure: The need for a laboratory and optimizing it as per production floor in achieving the desired color and quality for a dye-house is critical.
The goal of a lab is to make a better recipe for bulk. We usually say ‘Lab to Bulk’ but the true thinking and the slogan should be ‘Bulk to Lab’. Because the bulk processes should be fixed and standardized. And all trial and error should be done only in the laboratory.
occurring in bulk production, even if those are done in the sample and small machines, incurs a huge reduction in RFT hence resulting in less productivity. A design thinking look on the issue is critically important as a good recipe from the lab is
Volume 11, Issue 11
important for bulk dyeing to increase productivity and to reduce production cost. It is very important to maintain a good dyeing process in the bulk and the process has to be very reliable and easily controllable. The major work to achieve a reliable bulk process has to be done in a lab, not in the bulk floor. There are lots of works which can be done in the lab. A lab has to work very carefully. The lab has some limitations but it is possible to make such a recipe by which bulk production will be closer with lab dip. The goal of a lab is to make a better recipe for bulk. We usually say ‘Lab to Bulk’ but the true thinking and the slogan should be ‘Bulk to Lab’. Because the bulk processes should be fixed and standardized. And all trial and error should be done only in the laboratory. Some important points should be considered to make the recipe better for bulk:
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P r o c e s s i n g To d a y - E d i t o r i a l
1. Dyes Combination We know that usually three dyes are combined to achieve a particular shade. Dyes selections for making these dyes combinations should be such that substantively and Reactivity profiles of dyes should be closer. It will make Lab Dip closer from the point of Tone. In most cases, RFT achievement fails due to the tonal differences. As tone wise exhaustion and fixation profiles differ from dyes to dyes, the pick-up and fixation rates vary and so the color building is not synchronized well so color control in bulk operation becomes difficult. 2. Lab Dyeing Temperature Most the time dyeing temperature in the lab is kept fixed. As dye exhaustion and fixation profile vary as mentioned in the point one, it is not necessarily right that all
dyes reach its optimum level at one single temperature. As color buildup in actual life differs from dyes to dyes, we can vary the temperature in the lab to make Lab Dip closer with Bulk. Generally, dyeing masters vary temperature in the bulk to keep the shade and build right, but the real approach will be to adjust the thing at the lab and at bulk the lab process will be implemented as it is without variations. 3. Sample Weight We can use different sample weight for Pale, Medium and Dark shades. As for the light shades the lab recipes requires really the very low amount of dyes and so it’s not always easy to maintain such precision in weighing and so sample size for the pale shades could be increased. And this approach will reduce error percentage in the lab.
4. Wash Off It is important for the laboratory to do wash off exactly according to the bulk. But most of the time the manual washing process could not be maintained as per the bulk machine wash off processes. And so we should use the automatic machine for Lab Dip washing. It will help to make a better recipe. 5. Maintaining control parameters Material to Liquor (M:L) ratio is critically important if the lab and bulk do not matches the recipe will differ. Bath and material pH has to be matched and maintained as well. Many of the times amounts of salts and soda also are not matched or considered from the bulk to lab aspect. Fabric or material must come from the same fiber lot of the bulk. Dyes and chemicals lots are also should be matched. All other necessary control points should be considered and the lab has to be adjusted according to the bulk conditions.
Certificate achievers of training “Garments Washing & Effects” under FSD training program of Textile Today Training
Transforming Human Capital
Denimach Washing Ltd.
ďƒś
Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p

APS Group sets new benchmark in Bangladesh in water conservation in exhaust dyeing APS Group started the water saving revolution from 2014 for the first time in Bangladesh, now it has become an example to the world. APS dyeing unit average water consumption in per kg fabric production is 40-45 liters (total plant consumption) where, according to PaCT (a project of IFC), the average factory water consumption amount in Bangladesh has been estimated to be around 250 liters of water. Hence the savings in APS (200 litters per Kg) is the equivalent to the daily water use of two people in Dhaka. For comparison, the global benchmark for fabric production through exhaust process is about 100 liters of water per kg. FT Research Team There are lots of confusion about sustainability and how to be sustainable! There are factories in Bangladesh who are already practicing it but even they themselves are not aware on that. APS Group, one of the leading knit apparel manufacturers of Bangladesh doing a great sustainable practice by saving a huge amount of water in knit fabric dyeing which is incredible. Recently FT research Team explored this beautiful story. APS Group is an end-to-end apparel solution provider, started their journey in 1999 and now they have eight sister concerns. With a vertically integrated setup, the incorporation of advanced technology and a proficient management team, APS is emerging sturdily as one of the anterior business entity in the country. Their dyeing unit capacity is daily 31 tons of knit fabric. Once 1:8 to 1:10 liquor ratio was normal for knit fabric dyeing in exhaust process and day by day, it is reduced to 1:5 by machine design upgradation and other facilities. Now, most the dye houses follow the 1:5 liquor ratio. How water conservation in exhaust dyeing is not only about reducing M:L ratio, it is more about developing a process integrating machinery,
APS Dyeing Unit Water Footprint
20 Less than
20 ltr/kg water use for dyeing light color knit fabric
27 About
ltr/kg water use for dyeing dark color knit fabric.
Average
29
ltr/kg water use for dyeing knit fabric (within dyeing machine) KG
Water saved by APS to dye-finish 1KG of knit fabric
=
Average Daily water use for two people
Figure1: Water saved per kg fabric processing is compared to traditional factory in Bangladesh.
84
44
ltr/kg water in all processes in the plat of APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
ďƒś When the liquor ratio is 1:5 1st bath = 5 liters 2nd -11th bath = {(5-2)*10} Total water = 5+(3*10 ) =35 liters

Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p
When the liquor ratio is 1:4 1st bath = 4 liters 2nd-11th bath = {(4-2)*10} Total water = 4+(2*10) =24 liters
For special color & style Water consumption is 22 liters
Figure 2: Straight forward calculation of water consumption inside exhaust dyeing machine considering block rinsing.
Table 1: Water savings in APS Dyeing Unit. Bulk Production (Kg/day)
Water Consumption (only process) Modern Process
Water Savings
APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd (ltr/kg Fabrics)
(ltr/day)
(m3/ day)
(m3/ year)
648945
648.945
194683.5
(ltr/kg Fabrics)
(ltr/day)
31050
50
1552500
Months
F1 Ground
F5 Rain
F2 Domestic
F8 Domestic
F7 Machine
F4 WTP
F3 WTP
F10
F11
of 2018
Water
Water
Water
Water
& Floor Clean
Backwash
Soft water
ETP
ETP
Consumption
Consumption
Consumption
Consumption
Consumption
Consumption
Consumption
Intlet
Outlet
(m3)
(m3)
(m3)
(m3)
(m3)
(m3)
(m3)
(m3)
(m3)
May
34842
230
3505.7
360
1053.7
200
29930
28264
28125
June
22715
150
2657.7
572
816.9
119
18687
18687
17812
July
29960
100
4144.6
871
1031.6
152
23843
23843
22720
Aug
25512
50
3466.4
927
786.6
153
20215
20215
18800
Sep
39344
40
4536
1043
1089.3
226
32479
32479
31375
Oct
38010
0
4651.4
1139
1033.6
246
30929
30929
29899
29.1
(ltr/day) 903555
Table 2: Water consumption chart of APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd including garments unit from May 2018 to October 2018
laboratory, chemicals, materials and people in the factory. With an exemplary optimization of existing resources APS has set a new benchmark in water conservation in exhaust dyeing process. For light color, APS process consumption is below 20 liters and for dark color, it is 25-27 liters of water which is very much close to the global benchmark and certainly a benchmark in Bangladesh.
devastating problem of water when their main water source got stuck for some technical problems. At that time their production hampered horribly. Md. Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS Dyeing Unit analyzed with his team that how to reduce the water consumption. And they developed some basic concepts of dyeing and applied some innovative idea. Reducing number of bath, eliminating overflow rinses and unnecessary wash, optimizing outcomes with buyers expectation were key challenges APS could accomplish successfully.
How APS doing it In the year 2014, APS Dyeing Unit faced a
Table 3: Electricity Saving Quantities are saved
Pump Specification
Saving in Operational Hour
Electricity
(m3/day)
Capacity (m3/hr)
Power (KW)
(hour)
KWH/ day
MWH/ month
MWH/ year
Underground water
648.95
90
37
7.2
266.8
8.0
80.0
WTP
648.95
80
22
8.1
178.5
5.4
53.5
Feeding in production process
648.95
100
30
6.5
194.7
5.8
58.4
ETP inlet pump
648.95
60
7.5
10.8
81.1
2.4
24.3
Filter Pump
648.95
60
7.5
10.8
81.1
2.4
24.3
ETP Outlet pump
648.95
60
7.5
10.8
81.1
2.4
24.3
883.3
26.5
265.0
265.0
Water Saving Areas
Electricity Saving due to less water use in the production process
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
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Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p
Figure 3: A black color fabric dyeing curve shows that 27 liters consumption of water at APS dyeing unit.
Figure 4: Sedomaster Report shows using only 23 liters water to dye per kg fabric.
Water consumption calculation Considering 11 bath and after first filling, usually, fabric absorbs 2 times water of its weight till unload which is always ignored in typical factories’ The average process water consumption (rinsing dyeing machine) at APS Dyeing Unit is about 29 liters (see figure 2). If a modern process consumes 50 liters water (only considering dyeing processes) then water saving per kg fabric is almost 21 liters which is huge. It is not a rocket science, it is just awareness and willingness of being changed. Any dye-house who have exhaust-dyeing process can easily
86
dye a batch within 35 liters by following this. Water Saving: A typical water saving scenario at APS dyeing unit shown in table 1. Generally, an adult person daily consumes about 150 liters. In that sense, yearly APS saves that much water, which is equivalent to the water consumption of about 1.3 million people in a day! Or you can fill almost 78 Olympic-size swimming pools (Olympic size pools measure: 50m long, 25m wide, and a minimum of 2m deep) with that water. At APS Group, they use water flow meter from groundwater consumption to ETP outlet so
that they can regulate the water consumption properly. Also, they avoid the softener in the dyeing machine which reduces the water consumption and makes the reprocess easier if needed. Energy Saving: Water saving in production process directly saves electricity (see table 3) for extracting water from underground, processing water in WTP, feeding water in the production line and finally wastewater processing in ETP. A rough calculation said that they are saving the almost 27m3 capacity of ETP and also reducing ETP processing cost. APS dyeing unit has a 60m3 capacity of biochemical ETP.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.
Wa t e r S t e w a r d s h i p
“Our RFT is almost 85% and we are trying to make it 90% by saving the maximum amount of water. We have also ZDHC target by 2020,” said Md. Rashedul Islam, General Manager (Dyeing & Knitting) of APS Group. Furthermore APS is now working how to save more water as like for light color within 16 liters per kg, for dark color 24 liters per kg fabric. They have a strong team, working relentlessly on water and energy saving. The journey of change was not easy. They have faced many vital problems that are directly related to fabric quality and they successfully overcame these. Levelness problem, washing problem was acute and washing problem always naturally leads to fabric impurity. That is why they changed the rinsing process by increasing the washing cycle and reducing water flow in each cycle. “I do not want to confine it within us the process we have developed, let’s think in a more versatile way and hope the whole industry would be benefitted if they really
Figure 5: APS dyeing unit has the latest generation machinery.
think of sustainable business,” said Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS Dyeing Unit. In APS dyeing unit top notch machinery are used. They have Dilmenler and Sclavos (latest generation Athena 3A). In Athena 3A, they use 1:3.5~4 liquor ratio whereas Sclavos themselves don’t recommend below 1:5 liquor ratio, but APS is doing it very successfully and regularly by ensuring quality. Machine operators always play vital roles in any dye-house. So,
they need real support from the management because they are always concerned about the fabric shade matching and quality that leads them to use extra water which is always out of the calculation. Therefore, at first, they should be motivated and facilitated to achieve the organization goal and that commitment should come from the top management. APS has that employer branding amazingly and they are on their target as a team.
Southeast University participates on Higher Education Alliance at WTU Desk Report Recently Southeast University along with 26 other universities formed a new Higher Education Alliance at Wuhan Textile University (WTU), China aims to extend the areas of the collaboration of research knowledge and experience and steps its role to play in the development of textile higher education in the members’ universities. Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, Chairman, Department of Textile Engineering, Southeast University signed the Higher Education
88
Figure 1: Recently Southeast University along with 26 other universities formed a new Higher Education Alliance at Wuhan Textile University.
Alliance on behalf of Southeast University. On his discussion with Director of International Office of Wuhan
Textile University, he requested to award more students from the different discipline of Southeast University.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Te x t i l e I c o n
“If Germany or Turkey can do such amazing thing then why can’t we?” Hasib Uddin, Chairman, APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.
APS Group started new era in the exhaust dyeing process by saving huge amount of water consistently from 2014. Hasib Uddin, Chairman of APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd. played the pioneer role in the whole journey of this water saving activity. APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd. was established in 2009 and is committed to achieving highest customer satisfaction by ensuring the social compliance and the legal requirement for all facilitates. From the beginning Hasib Uddin leading from the front line to a bigger change of the industry. Let’s hear the story in his words.
Figure: Hasib Uddin, Chairman, APS Apparels (Dyeing Unit) Ltd.
Once we had severe problem of water in the dyeing unit due to some unavoidable technical problems. Fortunately at that time I went to Germany, Switzerland and Turkey to attend some training programs. Surprisingly I found they are dyeing fabric through exhaust process by using very little amount of water. “If they can do such amazing thing then why can’t we?” this question thrust me much to do this kind of activity. This is true that we had urgency but importantly we need mindset to be changed. What I see that in our industry lots of people have that knowledge and potentiality but they do not want to be changed or they just fear to be changed! So, we did dyeing our first batch
of fabric successfully by lowering the water to only 33 liters per Kg . The next day again we dyed two batches which were also successful and finally we decided to start dyeing in all of our machine by following the similar process. But within few days we experienced a quality problem in a batch. We assessed our dye line and tracked down the problem which leads us to develop a data bank which you can consider as the great asset! From 2012 we started to develop our data bank and now we easily can dye any kind of fabric within 15.38 liters to 33 liters for per kg fabric which really a success for us. Eventually the data bank will help you to maintain the quality
consistency and I recommend all the dye houses to develop such data bank. Here in our new generation machine, we only use 16 to 23 liters of water for per kg fabric and it could be any kind of color and fabric. In our conventional machine which has 1:5~10 liquor ratio depending on the loading capacity, we generally use 33 liters and maximum 35 liters of water for per kg fabric. processing inside machine. So, I think any dye house of Bangladesh which even have 10-15 years old machine can easily dye the fabric through exhaust dyeing process by consuming maximum 35 liters water for per kg fabric. Just need to change their mind to launce the process.
Please follow this article ‘APS Group develops the process of reducing water consumption in exhaust dyeing’ to know details of the water saving story. page No.-84
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
89
S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y
“Bangladesh steps ahead to replace exhaust dyeing with more sustainable, economical and better quality production CPB dyeing” Engr Badruddin Ahmed Rahi, CEO of Trade Ray and Textile Technology Manager, ERBATECH GmbH
Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is seeing a remarkable change in terms of sustainability. A huge amount of water and energy are being consumed during dyeing processes. Profitability crisis and environmental issues are being a great concern for the industry now. Factories here in Bangladesh are struggling to remain competitive, maintaining global stringent compliance requirements, and keeping sustainability intact. However major point is to consider that changing towards sustainability does not make any adverse effect on the quality of the finished product. Exhaust dyeing is a widely used process in Bangladesh where
CPB dyeing is higher quality dyeing method for woven and knitted cellulosic fibers. The process reduces the use of salt, water, energy, and dyestuff, chemical and thus significantly reduces the chemical concentration of effluent. It is needless to say that it facilitates the bacterial treatment effectively.
Cold Pad Batch (CPB) dyeing process was ignored through this long journey of Bangladesh textile industry for knitted fabric. B Ahmed Rahi, CEO of Trade Ray and Textile Technology Manager, ERBATECH GmbH has a 10 years holistic working experience with CPB dyeing as a pioneer. Recently he shared his successful journey of CPB dyeing with Textile Today and urged the manufacturers to use CPB towards a greener world. Let’s hear his story. CPB dyeing process CPB dyeing is higher quality dyeing method for woven and knitted cellulosic fibers. The process reduces the use of salt, water, energy, and dyestuff,
Figure 1: A CPB dyeing machine of ERBATECH GmbH. Courtesy: ERBATECH GmbH
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Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Needle free space dyeing, No more yarn breakage Steamer
SDS - Space Dyeing Station Small Surface Required Giant Hanks New Effects Low Liquir Ratio Water Saving Time Saving
Customer Reference-
○ Epyllion Fabrics Ltd. (Yarn Dyed)
○ GMS Composite Knitting Ind. Ltd.
House-B148 (2nd Floor), Road-22, New DOHS, Mohakhali, Dhaka-1206 Mob: 01711558828, 01625387580, E-mail: info@traderay.net, rasel@traderay.net Website: http://www.traderay.net
S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y
chemical and thus significantly reduces the chemical concentration of effluent. It is needless to say that it facilitates the bacterial treatment effectively. CPB dyeing attempts the utmost cost-effective and advantageous approach of dyeing cotton with reactive dyestuffs. The elimination of salt addition also supports the minimum energy and water consumptions; hence rendering it more ecofriendly and fixation of dye is also much higher.
surface area and low amount of effluent. Conventional exhaust dyeing system emits up to 1 kg salt per kg of fabric where no salt is required in CPB. It requires very less electricity and reduces labor cost. After all fabric quality is more improved here than exhaust method. Challenges of CPB dyeing
Figure 2: Engr Badruddin Ahmed Rahi, CEO of Trade Ray and Textile Technology Manager, ERBATECH GmbH.
Robintex Group and Northern Tosrifa are most successful pioneer companies in Bangladesh in using CPB dyeing. And since 2014 many more companies are using CPB dyeing. In the initial stage of CPB dyeing, for kint fabric it was very challenging, so the interested factories had to take consultation and a lot of training to run the project. However, the whole industry was in a learning process but now I think we are strong enough to start dyeing with CPB process. All the chemical and machine suppliers are also developed a lot in the meantime. When I started my journey in late 2007 at Consumer Knitex Limited, I got amazed to see how much sustainable and the easier process can be the CPB dyeing process than exhaust dyeing. At that time a Sri-Lankan, representing for a world-famous brand visited our factory and decided to place his order after check out our settings. That was my start of the journey and through this journey; I found CPB dyeing is more economical and environment-friendly than exhaust dyeing. The method gives you the required fastness standards with ease and minimum costs, and less energy. Features of CPB dyeing In CPB dyeing, material and liquor ratio is 1:1 and no steam is required.
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It is not required of salt, hence less TDS in ETP. No anti-creasing agent is required and there is shiny fabric surface without crease marks. It is more lustrous fabric compared to conventional process. It is also suitable for delicate fabrics. Through this dyeing reactive dyes can be exhausted up the maximum. There is no need for enzymatic bio polishing. For occurring less frictionless fuzz is created on the fabric surface and less pressure of effluent in ETP as well. There is high reproducibility and needed minimum re-work and high flexibility in batch size (from color samples up to 1.000 kg batches). In the dye bath, there are water, fabrics, and dyestuff. In exhaust dyeing, 60% to 75% dyes are fixed on fabric; residual 25%-40% dyes got hydrolyzed and could not react with fabric due to higher liquor ratio. In CPB dyeing liquor ratio is 1:1, so the dye pickup is up to almost 95% and so it saves up to 30% dyeing cost. Benefits of CPB dyeing over exhaust dyeing The CPB dyeing has a lot of benefits by which factories can save a lot of resources. It is more sustainable and environmentfriendly and needs the relatively low cost of equipment. In CPB dyeing process it needs less
There are some challenges in CPB dyeing process:
• Is to train people to change their mindset to the practice of semi-continuous processing. • One extra step for drying is needed. • The yarn needs to be free of seed particles and this is not regular in Bangladesh. • Uniformity of quality of yarn and knitting process. Frequently asked questions 1. How to deal with small batches? - CPB can deal small batches even few meters. 2. How to do bio polishing? - CPB process cannot do bio polishing or it is needed since no additional friction is added while processing. The finished fabric itself gets a lustrous effect. 3. How to match lab to bulk and batch to batch shade? - CPB process has got a different concept of the lab to bulk and batch to batch shade consistency since these are mostly an exhaust dyeing issue. 4. How does it work without salt? - Salt is an exhausting agent needed for exhaust processing, it does not have a participation in the dye-fiber covalent bonding. In CPB additional exhaustion agent is not needed since dye bath liquor ratio is 1:1, cold water and longtime dwelling.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
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S u s t a i n a b l e Te c h n o l o g y
Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h
5. New exhaust dyeing machines are also low liquor ratio then how CPB is still beneficiary? - Latest low liquor ratio exhaust dyeing machines are only reducing water not proportionately the number and amount of chemicals. CPB is reducing water consumption along with a significant amount of chemicals and dyestuff. I am certainly not arrogant to claim that by using the CPB dyeing we will be able to maintain sustainability in dyeing process hundred percent, all I want to show that is CPB dyeing is a small step in the right way keeping a better quality of production.
Figure 3: Cold pad-batch (CPB) dye padder from Erbatech in operation in Tosrifa Industries Ltd.
Bangladesh’s RMG exports to India see 167% rise in Q1 Bangladesh’s apparel exports to India, an emerging export destination, have seen a Sharp rise by 167.13% to $145.10 million in the first quarter (Q1) of the current fiscal year. Staff Correspondent According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, export earnings from the readymade garment sector registered a 167.13% growth to $145.10 million, which was $54.32 million in the same period a year ago. Of the total, knitwear products contributed $37.76 million, while woven products earned $107.35 million. July-September period of the fiscal year 2018-19, Bangladesh exports earnings from India stood at $375, up by 142%, which was $155 million in the same period last year. Talking to Textile Today, apparel industry insiders attributed dutyfree and quota-free market access to Indian markets for the sharp growth. While the presence of global retailers in India has opened an opportunity for Bangladeshi apparel manufacturers as they are opening outlets. First Quarter (Q1)
Total Earning
2018-19
$145.10 million
2017-18
$54.32 million
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International apparel brands and retailers are opening outlets in India and importing clothing products directly and indirectly from Bangladesh, which created an enormous opportunity for our products. As a result, Bangladesh exports to India have seen significant growth, Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) President Abdus Salam Murshedy told the Textile Today. In addition, local brands and retailers are also importing goods due to price competitiveness as production cost went up caused by the implementation of Goods Services Tax (GST), said Salam, also a Former President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA). “A sharp rise in a neighboring country is a good sign for Bangladesh as it would help Rise (%) diversification of markets and reduce 167.13% dependency on traditional markets,
Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) Research Director Khondaker Golam Moazzem said the Textile Today. “As a pro-business government, we are providing cash incentives against export to non-traditional market. While India is providing duty-free quota-free market access for Bangladeshi products,” Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed said the Textile Today. In fiscal 2017-18, Bangladesh’s RMG exports to India stood at $279.19 million, up by 115% compared to $129.81 million in the FY17, according to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data. Of the total amount, Knitwear products earned $71.05 million, which is 89.75% higher than the $37.44 in the same period a year ago. Woven products earned $207.62 million, up by 124.79%, compared to $92.35 million a year ago. On the other hand, Bangladesh’s overall exports to India have registered a 29.87% growth to $873.27 million in the FY18.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Md Delwar Hossain, Managing Director of D & D Chemicals
Color Root is helping to increase products’ performance and reduce costs FT Research Team Textile dyeing is an integral part of the textile industry. The apparels industry has evolved, particularly over the last 20 years. Use of dyestuffs and chemicals helps the apparel industry cope with changing trends and dynamics such as declining mass production and the increasing importance of colors and serve the changing needs of customers. The global textile chemicals and dyestuff market is driven by a rise in the demand for chemicals and dyestuffs from the apparels industry and the technical textile industry. The global textile dyestuff market was valued at around US$ 5Bn in 2017 and is anticipated to expand at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of approximately 7% from 2018 to 2016, according to a new report published by Transparency Market Research (TMR) titled ‘Textile Dyestuff Market – Global Industry
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Analysis, Size, Share, Growth, Trends, and Forecast, 2018–2026.’ Color Root (Hubei) Technology Co., Ltd. is one of the renowned dyes and chemicals manufacturers in the world. The company is based in Songzi City, Hubei Province in China. It engages in the research and development, production, and sale of textile chemicals. The products of Color Root (Hubei) Technology Co., Ltd. have passed the ISO9001 quality management system, ISL14000 environmental management system and ISO18000 Occupational Hygiene & Health management system; they have also certified by Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) of CU and the ECO-standard 100 certificate of Switzerland in the meanwhile, some parts of products have made the pre-registration for REACH of EU. Most of the products of this company is also approved by
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bluesign®. Color Root is also one of the enlisted company of the Chinese share market. The company is mainly renowned for manufacturing reactive dyes. It offers its products to the Chinese and global customers. Chromatol commodities of Color Root are very high-quality reactive dyes that are sustainable and ecofriendly. Chromatol products series contain: •A vinylsulphone and monochlorotriazine reactive group, they are economic. •W ide range of cost-effective dyes for exhaustion (50-60°C), cold pad batch and continuous dyeing •S uitable for resist / dischargeable dyeing •F ull range of shades with brilliant colors •D iversified offer for turquoise/ green and dark navy shades
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Common Liyuansol Series
Liyuansol FL Series
Liyuansol HS Series
Liyuansol FD Series
Liyuansol black Series
Liyuan P Series
Liyuansol C Series
•A unique production facilities for Fluorine dyestuffs. Textile millers can use their necessary Chromatol products from the series. D & D Chemicals is one of the leading textile dyestuff and chemicals companies in Bangladesh, who is working here in Bangladesh as Color Root’s agent since 2012. They have a large range of products to meet the ongoing requirements of the textile industry. The objective of the company is to help customers to consistently increase their product’s performance and reduce the costs. According to the company, they have two separated divisions with its own area of responsibility- one is reactive dyes for cotton and another is textile auxiliaries. All two divisions’ production, sales and marketing and quality control facilities. The individual division’s function is to meet the specific requirement of their markets. Md Delwar Hossain, MD of D & D Chemicals, said about the company, “We have a team of dedicated professionals to satisfy our customer’s demands and we also believe that good people, focused on a shared vision can achieve outstanding results. Our level of achievement testifies to this and we are currently serving
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Dyes Manufacturing
leading Chinese company Color Root was keen to invest about the US $500 million to set up manufacturing plants in Bangladesh. However, the investment went back as they did not get proper support and facilities in Bangladesh.
more the one hundred customers in over the country.” He further added that, “We recognize meeting our customer’s needs is a priority for our success. We provide against our customers with consistent support and new ideas to help them strengthen their competitiveness and performance in their own industries.” “Our business performances are based on a commitment to the quality, continuous service and attractive price and our knowhow and technical expertise. Through technology, innovation and specialized applications, we provide against full package solutions most appropriate for customer’s needs.” Many Chinese and multinational companies are interested to invest and manufacture dyes and chemicals in Bangladesh. Even though dyestuff manufacturing is a large-scale industry and requires huge land and infrastructure,
“Lack of raw materials is a major difficulty in dyestuffs and chemicals manufacturing in Bangladesh. We have to import 95 percent of raw materials from abroad if we want to set up a manufacturing unit in Bangladesh. In addition, it requires some raw materials to produce dye and chemical those are not allowed to import,” he explained. To set up dyes and chemicals manufacturing unit in Bangladesh government assistance is a must. Besides government support, the mindset of dyes and chemicals users in Bangladesh and the mindset of global brands also have to be changed towards locally manufactured dyes and chemicals. “If locally manufactured chemicals can comply with the quality and other requirements then why would we prefer using imported chemicals? Using local chemicals will reduce cost significantly,” said Md Delwar Hossain. “We need around 400 bighas land to establish the manufacturing plant. So Bangladesh government should have a master plan regarding the matter, he concluded.
Figure : Liu Weibin, Managing Director, Hubei Color Root Technology Co. Ltd.; Tareq Amin, Founder & CEO, Textile Today; Md. Asif Hossain, Son of Engr. Md. Abdullahel Hossain Bablu, Deputy Managing Director, Asiatic Group poses after a tour in Color Root Research Center in Shanghai, China.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Unveiling industry best practices
Apparel Accessories & Fashion N ove m be r 201 8
A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 11, Issue 11 l Pages 97 to 108
Getting rid of “Hidden Factory�
Scenario of African fashion industry
TWELVE for trendy and gorgeous dresses in winter
Unveiling industry best practices Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing
A p p a r e l To d a y - E d i t o r i a l
Getting rid of “Hidden Factory” Rasel Ahmed Likhon, Project coordinator, EPIC Group The Hidden Factory is a term that refers to non value-added unnecessary activities in an operation or activites out of standard operating procedure (SOP). It reduces the quality or efficiency of a manufacturing operation or business process, but are not initially known to managers or others seeking to improve the process. The Hidden Factory is where the largest amount of money, time and resources are spent that are considered as ‘waste’. The Hidden Factory coexists with the actual, visual factory. What is a Process? A process is a systematic activity comprising of smaller activities that culminate in an outcome (end product). A process can take up time, space, and resources. Categories of Process 1. Value-added: This step in the process adds form, function, and value to the end product and for the customer. 2. Non-value added but necessary: This step does not add value but is a necessary step in the final value-added product. 3. Non-value added: This step does not add form, function, or assist in the finished goods manufacturing of the product. (2.) & (3.) naturally create waste, which causes ‘Hidden Factory’. Types of waste that can contribute to ‘Hidden Factory’ i. Over-Production: Producing more than is needed, faster than needed or before needed. ii. Wait-time: The Idle time that occurs when co-dependent events are not synchronized. iii. Transportation: Any material movement that does not directly
Bangladesh Textile Today |
QUALITY
REJECTS WARRANTY LONG CYCLE TIME LONG SALES LOST CUSTOMER LOYALTY
WASTE
HIDDEN FACTORY
support immediate production.
.
Effects of Hidden Factory • I n 1977, the quality guru ‘Armand Feigenbaum’ estimated the endeavor within the hidden factory might be 15% to 40% effort of the total company. •R educe the profitability of the company. • I mpact on the competitiveness of the company. • I mpact ability to satisfy the Customers. •P revent the company from achieving the world-class Performance. Hidden Factory in the garment industry The Hidden Factory can be seen to those who look for it. It exists right in front of our eyes. Yet, most of us are blind to its existence and the Hidden Factory continues to eat profits. Signs of ‘Hidden Factory’ in the Garment Industry •L ess production than target due to rework. •C arton audit failure due to unacceptable quality level. •R eproduction of short quantity to meet up shipment quantity. •O ver time working hour of the factory.
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LATE DELIVERY
•R ecruitment of sub-contractual manpower. Example 1 Cause: Unplanned production of short quantity due to damage after washing. Effect: Total cycle of production (spreading, cutting, sewing, washing etc.) need to be done again separately. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, manpower, money, raw material) that required to recover the damage of washing is totally waste. Example 2: Cause: Wrong label is attached to the garment due to the carelessness of operator or miscommunication with a supervisor. Effect: After finding the wrong label in the QI table, the garments are given back to the label attach operator. Wrong labels are removed and correct labels are attached. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The time that required to remove the wrong label and attach correct one is totally waste. Example 3 Cause: Different types of marking, turning, trimming, de-chaining is
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done in the garment industry. Effect: Requires extra manpower and time. Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, manpower) used in marking, turning, trimming, de-chaining is totally waste as all these add no value at all. Example 4: Cause: Production of more garments than order quantity due to lack of planning.
Fast Fashion
Effect: Remain excess garment after shipment.
III. E liminate the cause that feeds ’Hidden Factory’
Contribution in Hidden Factory: The resources (time, raw material, manpower, money) to produce these extra garments all are waste.
There are hundreds of ways you can find ‘waste’ in every department; in every process; in every action. It is everyone’s responsibility in the organizational team to find the Hidden Factory in his or her area. If someone finds any Hidden Factory, he or she should expose it and implement solutions that will eliminate the waste.
Steps to eliminate ‘Hidden Factory’ from Garment Industry: I. F ind out ‘Is there any sign of Hidden Factory?’ II. F ind out the root cause of that sign
Fast fashion and low prices are responsible for clothing disposals The apparel industry is a major contributor to waste and carbon use. Recycling charity Textile Reuse & International Development (TRAID) said this. Desk Report TRAID is a charity working to stop clothes from being thrown away. They turn clothes waste into funds and resources to reduce the environmental and social impacts of the clothes. In evidence to the Environmental Audit Committee’s (EAC) hearing on the sustainability of the fashion industry, the trend towards disposable ‘fast’ fashion meant the amount of discarded material had increased sharply in recent years, said TRAID. According to TRAID, some 650,000 tons of clothing were collected for reuse and recycling in 2014, and a survey two years later by the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan found 39% was donated to charity shops. 18% was given through charity bag household collections, 13% brought to textile banks, 7% was sold and 6% of disposed of in general waste collections. It said that if the fashion industry continued to operate under its current model then, by 2050, it could use more than 26% of the carbon budget allocated for keeping within reach of the 2°C
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Figure: ‘Fast’ fashion meant the amount of discarded material had increased sharply in recent years.
average global warming limit. Because of fast-changing trends and low prices a significant increase in clothing purchases is happening. As a result, the rate of discarding, with 1.13 million tonnes of clothing purchased in the UK in 2016, a 200,000 increase in four years. The committee last week called on retailers Amazon, ASOS, Pretty Little Thing and Missguided to give evidence to the inquiry. EAC Chair, Labour’s MP, Mary Creagh, said, “Our recent evidence hearing raised alarm bells about the fast-growing online-only
retail sector. Low-quality £5 dresses aimed at young people are said to be made by workers on illegally low wages and are discarded almost instantly, causing mountains of non-recycled waste to pile up.” EAC Chair, also informed that they would be calling some of these online retailers in front of the committee to answer questions. “But, in the meantime, my letters encourage them to face up to the social and environmental consequences of their business models,” she also added.
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A p p a r e l To d a y
Scenario of African fashion industry Md. Tanvirul Hasnat Story behind Africa’s fashion crosses the complex designs of the continent’s culture, heritage and her dress. The next big thing is to provide a solution to the potential of Africa to drive the future of Africa and slow economic growth due to rising youth unemployment and increased value of commodities. Sub-Saharan African clothing and footwear market is worth $ 31 billion US dollars. Growing creative ambition in African fashion trends is essential, but poor supply discipline, the lack of international partners and the challenges of inferior infrastructure will be resolved promptly. Cotton, textile and apparel manufacturers in 18 sub-Saharan African countries are backing a new initiative to boost confidence in Africa as a sourcing location and attract new buyers and investors to the region. Effect of African Culture and Beauty on the global fashion scene, the number of non-selected and African descent models has increased significantly, running the runways for fashion’s biggest brands, which featured in leading
fashion magazines and featured among most of the world’s landbreaking advertising campaigns. In 2018, Amitoy Lagum of Uganda and Harith Paul of Tanzania, such as Harith Paul, will see the continual increase in African models of fashion. Although the African market for footwear industry is still young, the continent is heavily involved with raw materials, extraordinary talent and affordable labor, which is the perfect push to
Scopes for having investors in Africa
More Gorgeous Models on the International Scene
An Increase In Footwear Production
An Appreciation of Formal Fashion Training
build an extraordinary footwear industry. Countries like Ethiopia, Ghana, Kenya, and Nigeria lead the revolutionary footprint of the continent. In 2015, Ethiopia has earned more than $ 30 million from the export of shoes, which has achieved ninth place in the leather products industry worldwide. And this is just the beginning. In 2018, we can expect to see further growth from Ethiopia and other African countries, the price of African footwear industry may be likely to rise to $ 1 billion in the next decade. Today, though very few universities across the continent are offering first or master’s degree in fashion, the perception of fashion on the continent is improving as a result of African fashion being increasingly accepted and adopted across the globe. Recently South Africa, a country on the southernmost tip of the African continent, is planning to
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Large population, big market According to UNICEF, there are 1.2 billion people in Africa. The United Nations agency estimatesby 2050 population will be 4 billion. This large market size represents a great opportunity for investors. Fashion brands with proper marketing strategies and creative acumen have a huge market that they can sell.
A p p a r e l To d a y
Alibaba Group collaborates with Fung Retailing Ltd. Desk Report
First Mover Facility
Africa’s middle class is growing
The first investor in Africa's fashion industry will be the biggest beneficiary of the industry's growth potential seriously. Small and Medium Scale Enterprises (SMEs) make up 90 percent of Africa’s fashion industry, most of who are talented and whose growth has been hampered by lack of capital.
Investors may be ready to invest in the industry, but a thought often lags behind; Feel the kind of product and what kind of services it is. However, with the growth of Africa's economic growth, with the growth of the middle class, investors will not have to worry anymore with more disposable income of Africans.
+
$
13+ Increase in minimum wage for textile workers in Nigeria
$31bn worth African Fashion Industry
$65.1bn export target of Kenya by 2023 in woven apparel, knit apparel
Figure : African fashion industry’s present scenario
develop a master plan for the growth of the apparel, textile, footwear and leather retail value chain, targeting creation of 60,000 jobs, according to Trade and Industry Minister Rob Davies. He said that his department is working with Justin Barnes, facilitator for the new automotive master plan till 2035, to come out with a similar plan. The plan may be announced early next year, according to a report in a South African newspaper. Thanks to the upward trend of Africa’s clothing exports, especially thanks to the Bangladeshi investors, there has been a threat to the second position in the world’s clothing
Bangladesh Textile Today |
business. Under the African Growth and Scope Act (AGOA), the United States enjoys duty-free and quota-free access for certain goods with clothing. And among the main reasons for growing garments exports from African countries is one of the impressive Bangladeshi garment makers to take advantage of responsibility under the African Growth and Opportunity Act, or AGOA. AGOA is a piece of legislation that was approved by the U.S. Congress in May 2000. The purpose of this legislation is to assist the economies of subSaharan Africa and to improve economic relations between the United States and the region.
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Alibaba Group Holding Ltd announced a strategic partnership with Fung Retailing Ltd to bring more international lifestyle brands to mainland China at the CIIE in Shanghai on 6th November. The partnership will help global brands tailor their product development and marketing strategies to meet the ever-changing needs of Chinese consumers.
Figure: Left to right- Sabrina Fung, Group Managing Director of Fung Retailing Limited; Dr. Victor Fung, Group Chairman of the Fung Group; Daniel Zhang, CEO of Alibaba Group; and Toby Xu, Vice President of Alibaba Group. Courtesy: Fung Retailing Ltd
In addition to bringing more international lifestyle brands to mainland China, the partnership will better serve global brands by leveraging Fung Retailing’s global portfolio of brands, offline retail channels and marketing know-how, as well as Alibaba’s ecosystem, digital retail leadership, technology, and consumer insights from Alibaba’s over 600 million users. Under the MoU, both companies will join forces in global brand recruitment and offer brands merchandising, marketing and Omni channel distribution services. This collaboration will focus on the mainland China market as a first step, and potentially expand to other regions riding on Alibaba’s platforms, said a release. The partnership will focus on China first, but the two sides said they could potentially expand to other regions served by Alibaba’s platforms.
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Apparel Brands
TWELVE for trendy and gorgeous dresses in winter Twelve is a popular name right now in Bangladesh’s fashion fraternity. This winter, Twelve is offering trendy at the same time affordable and fashionable clothing’s focused on men and women fashion appetite of ages between eighteen and thirty-five. FT Research Team Winter is always a season of fashion. Men, women of all ages and kids love to wear fashionable clothing’s in this season. Twelve Clothing, a sister concern of TEAM Group offering special winter collection for the fashion conscious people in all their five outlets across Dhaka. Twelve Clothing revealed as a brand in 2012 with their very first outlet at Uttara, Dhaka. With a vision of pioneering the fast fashion culture in Bangladesh by blending ethnic and western fusion. Unparalleled and uncompromising quality, trendy fabric and designs are Twelve Clothing’s unique selling point. With individual clothing line for both men and women, they have come up with a wider range of variety of style and color in their Jamuna Future Park (Level-1, Block- A) Uttara (Jashim uddin Avenue)
Banasree (Road - 9, Block – C
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latest addition of fashion focusing the winter season. From party wear to a casual day out or family program you can find whatever you need according to your fashion appetite. Men’s casual and formal Blazers, Casual Bomber, Denim Jacket and husky jacket etc. are very fascinating. For ladies, traditional Kurtis, Suit Sets, cardigans, Jackets, Dhanmondi (KB square) Sweat Shirts, Denim jacket and Palazzo are very eye-catching.
Mirpur
Fahmid Islam, Chief Executive Officer of Twelve Clothing said, “We have brought trendy, colorful and feasible winter collection for men and
women available in our all five outlets. Sweater and hoodies price starts at BDT 900 and up to 1500. Men’s jacket from starts from BDT 1290, Blazer 4250 and ladies jacket from BDT 1990.” Abdullah Hil Rakib, Managing Director of Team Group said, “I believe, in the next five years there will be a lot more brands and the entire industry will be standardized into an ideal level with the support of the new generation who will lead this industry. So, that is the main theme which pushes us to come up in the industry with a new Bangladeshi brand ‘Twelve’ in 2012.” All outlets of Twelve Clothing are at Uttara (Jashimuddin Avenue), Jamuna Future Park (Level-1, BlockA), Banasree (Road - 9, Block – C), Mirpur, Dhanmondi (KB square).
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
GSM Sample Cutter
Color Matching Cabinet
Electrolux Wascator & Dryer
Whirlpool Washer & Dryer
Warp Reel (Yarn Count Tester)
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A p p a r e l To d a y
Pakistan’s knitwear garment exports surge over 16% in October Desk report The knitted garment sector of Pakistan has maintained a growth in its shipments and led the sector with an increase of 16.13% in its exports where overall textile exports were recorded at $1.13 billion in October, down 0.12% compared with $1.132 billion in the corresponding period of previous year. Central Chairman of Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA), Muhammad Jawed Bilwani said, “Knitwear garment exports grew 10.41% in July-October 2018 against the same month last year so especially this sector has a great potential for expansion.” He expected that the knitwear garment sector can achieve new milestones and its export can be raised by 25% every year, provided the government considers the proposals sought from the sector. Where the size of annual global exports from Pakistan is only around $20 billion but the knitted exports alone earned $2.719 billion in the fiscal year 2017-18, which included knitted products like hoodies, shirts, t-shirts, jerseys,
Figure: Pakistan is the 25th largest economy in the world and one of the few countries where complete value chain of textiles manufacturing exists.
pullovers, trousers, jackets, etc. The sector has ranked high in the textile group over the past three years. Most Exported Knitted Product from Pakistan Hoodies T-Shirts
Pakistan’s annual exports. Pakistan is one of the few countries where complete value chain of textiles manufacturing exists. Pakistan annually produces more than 11 million bales of cotton. The cotton is domestically ginned and then spun into yarn by a robust spinning sector. Bilwani urged the government to consider and set separate electricity tariffs for the five zero-rated industries and introduce uniform tariffs for water consumption as well. Currently, water tariffs for the industries in Karachi were the highest when compared with other regions and provinces. The area of product diversification and branding are also being given due attention. Pakistan is moving towards achieving more market diversification and improved market access.
Jerseys Pullovers Trousers Jackets Shirts Pakistan is the 25th largest economy in the world. Textiles sector is the mainstay of their exports sector, which, together with cotton and yarn, accounts for more than half the total value of
Meanwhile, the PHMA has written a letter to the finance minister, requesting to support the textile industry as it thinks Pakistan has a great chance to go on top in the world.
India’s apparel exports slumped by 26% in Sep Desk Report According to data released by Directorate General of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics (DGCI&S), Kolkata, India’s garment exports fall by 26% in September due to higher input cost and lack of favorable trade agreements for major global markets. Exports of readymade garments of India declined sharply in September 2018 worth Rs 7968cr compared to Rs 10705cr in September 2017. The decline is a shock to apparel
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Pradesh (UP), who blame it on high input costs. Production costs in the northern hubs are high compared to other competing countries.
exporters of India, particularly from Punjab, Haryana and Uttar
Overall, India exported readymade garments worth Rs 35860.16cr in April-July 2018, and during April-July 2017, India’s apparel exports were to the tune of Rs 39857cr.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
from f ield to fashion
Sales Inquiry +88 0184 1166 233 amran@maksonsgroup.com.bd www.maksonsgroup.com.bd
A p p a r e l To d a y
Apparel exports to new markets rose by 42% in July- October of FY19 Bangladesh’s apparel exports to non-traditional markets have seen a sharp rise by 41.81% to nearly $2 billion in July-October period of the current fiscal year. Staff Correspondent According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, during July-October period of the fiscal year 2018-19, Bangladesh has earned $1.88 billion exporting clothing products to nontraditional markets, which is 41.81% higher compared to $1.33 billion in the same period a year ago. Of the total amount, woven products earned $940.20 million, up by 53.78%, which was $611.41 million in the same period. While knitwear products fetched $950 million, which is 31.66% higher comparing to $721 million a year ago. Talking on the export performance in non-traditional exports, manufacturers, and trade analysts attributed government and exporters efforts in exploring new markets and duty-free market access. “As the government is providing cash incentives against apparel export to non-traditional export destination, exports earnings from the new market has seen a sharp rise in July-October period of the current fiscal year, Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed told the Textile Today. For the current fiscal year, the Bangladesh government has increased cash incentives to 4% from 3% against export to new markets. The present government is very positive to business expansion and it will continue its policy support for market diversification. In the months to come, the export earnings from the non-traditional market will see further growth, said the minister. He also urged the apparel manufacturers to explore more new markets in a bid to enlarge
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Clothing products exports to non-traditional markets Year
Woven products
Knitwear products
% compared to the same
(million$)
(million$)
period a year ago
2018-2019
940.20
950
53.78
2017-2018
611.41
721
31.66
the export destination to reach the export target of $50 billion by 2021. “In the recent year, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has taken some massive initiatives to explore new export destination by participation in various exposition. While some of the countries have provided dutyfree market access, which pushed the export shipments to the new markets sharply,” BGMEA Senior Vice President Faruque Hassan told the Textile Today. On top of that, safety improvement in the Bangladesh apparel sector has rebuild buyers confidence in procuring products from here, said Hassan also Managing Director of Giant Group. I think it’s high time for Bangladesh to grab more market share from the global export market. But the government has to be more active in this regard by offering proper and effective
policy support, he added. “Bangladesh is doing better in non-traditional export markets. This is because of manufacturers move for new markets, while the government policy support including cash incentives expedited the growth,” Former Advisor to caretaker government AB Mirza Azizul Islam told the Textile Today. In addition, the China-US trade war also was another reason for the sharp rise as the buyers of northAmerican placing orders here, said the economist. He urged the government to continue policy support to diversify export destination to reduce dependency on EU and US markets. Non-traditional export markets for the Bangladesh garment sector include China, Russia, Japan, India, South Africa, Australia, Turkey, Brazil, Chile, Mexico, South Korea, Malaysia, and New Zealand.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Te x t i l e P e o p l e
Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan receives the International ‘Holden Medal Award’ Staff Correspondent British High Commissioner H.E. Alison Blake presented the ‘Textile Institute International Holden Medal for Education’ to Prof Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro ViceChancellor of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) on 27 November at the British High Commissioner’s residence, Dhaka. Prof Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan is the first Bangladeshi to win the award by ‘The Textile Institute, Manchester, UK’ in recognition of his outstanding contributions in technology-based education at the levels. British High Commissioner H.E. Alison Blake said, “I am delighted to present the ‘Textile Institute International Holden Medal for Education’ to Prof Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan.” “The Textile Institute was founded in the year 1910 and was chartered by the British Government in 1925. The Institute has Individual and Corporate members in up to 80 countries; membership covers all sectors and all disciplines in textiles management, art, design, fashion, economics, science, engineering, research, production, marketing, selling, retailing,
Figure 1: Prof Dr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro Vice-Chancellor of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)-in middle-receiving ‘Textile Institute International Holden Medal for Education’.
education and training etc. The award is made to an institute member only.” Expressing pleasure after receiving the prestigious Holden Medal for education Dr. Khan said, “I am greatly humbled to receive the Holden Medal for Education by The Textile Institute, UK, which is truly an International recognition.” “I was always a firm believer that education is the key to prosperity. A good education opens numerous doors for achievement. My education in the UK has played a huge role in the work that I have
done till date,” he said. Dr. Khan is a renowned Textile Engineer turned educationist having more than 30 years of experience in teaching, educational planning and management, education and industrial consultancy, project management, research, process, product and technology development. He did his B.Sc. in Textiles Engineering from the University of Dhaka, M.Sc., and Ph. D from the University of Manchester, the UK in the same field under the Commonwealth Scholarship & Fellowship program. Prof. Khan is a Syndicate Member of Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTEX). He is a Fellow of the Textile Institute the UK and Section Chairman of International Textile Institute UK Bangladesh section and the Executive Editor of Bangladesh Textile Today. He is the youngest son of late Alhaj Rashid Ahmed Khan and late Alhaj Noorjahan Begum.
Figure 2: Dr. Khan’s family, BUFT board of trustee members, colleagues and well-wishers were also present at the medal presenting ceremony.
Bangladesh Textile Today |
Volume 11, Issue 11
Dr. Khan’s family, BUFT board of trustee members, colleagues, Textile Today team and wellwishers were also present at the medal presenting ceremony.
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