Speciality Finishes: The Shield of Protection

Mr. AVINASH MAYEKAR

MD AND CEO, SUVIN ADVISORS PVT LTD

SPECIALTY FINISHES: THE SHIELD OF PROTECTION

ABSTRACT

There is a balance to be maintained between the processing of textiles & their impact on the environment. Introducing a finish to overcome one adversity should not lead to another adversity of the future. More & more innovations on the organic aspect is need of the hour. Promoting greener finishes & an overall appeal on the affordability will be the key driving factor for the growth of this sector. There is no doubt that adding finishes & improving the quality parameter will not be a costly affair. So here is where the measures of cost-cutting like bulk productions will come into play to make the finished product in the affordability range. It requires working together from all the segments of the value chain. Textile finishes have overcome all deficiencies of fibres, fabrics and manufacturing processes and can apply even on garments to cut short the limitations. The world is changing towards green environment and so is our own finishing industry keeping pace with the environment!!!

Clothing has gone beyond our conventional protection, it is a fashion, it is a functional aspect, it is a brand promotion, it is weather sensitive, it is combination of various fibres – natural & synthetics, it can be collaboration of all physical as well as chemical properties, and even nowadays beauty of chemical technology is that all of such properties can be imparted to give more meaning to life of human beings.

Years have passed since when the basic necessity of clothing is been restricted only to protection from the climatic changes. The aesthetic appeal of garments has seen a tremendous demand thereby giving the best of the fashion with comfort for the skin garments. The pandemic, however, has opened up a new dimension to this basic protection feature of the garments it is because today the term protection is not only restricted to the climatic phenomenon but the viruses which were present for years in the atmosphere have suddenly entered the super important zone owing to rise of “COVID19”.

To enhance clothing properties & build in the efficiency factor various finishes have been surfaced on the clothing but all were limited to a certain specialty clothing series. For eg. the heat retardant finishes to workwear, the perspiration finishes for breathability to the sportswear, etc. It is now that the finishes will start gaining their importance as the first line of defense acting as Shield armor against the invisible viruses. The importance of health & hygiene will act as a catalyst to boost the use of more advanced finishes on the majority of consumer-driven textiles from basic clothing to the home textiles & textiles in direct contact of humans.

Let us explore the various finishes already introduced & the impact of the current situation on them: 1. Anti-Viral Finish: This finish reduces the viral activity morphologically. The name itself is enough for creating a wave of interest in people for clothes with such finishes. Currently, it is having a prime time market on various face shields in the market.

Figure 1Visual representation, source internet In April 2020 NICCA has confirmed the antiviral effect of the textiles processed with the antibacterial agent “NICCANON”. ). The fabric treated with “NICCANON” succeeded in reducing the number of viruses on the fabric for the same envelope type influenza virus as a coronavirus (COVID-19). A success breakthrough will see the majority of consumer-driven textiles implementing these finishes on garments, drapes & curtains, bedcovers filters, mops, etc. Melbourne, Australia based HealthGuard Corporation claims that its HealthGuard AMIC/PLB anti-viral textile finish has been independently tested to be 99.9% effective against killing spores of Corona Virus (H1N1), SARS and Influenza Virus when applied correctly to fibers and fabrics Indian Companies such as Donear Industries, Welspun India Ltd, RSWM Ltd (Mayur), Arvind Ltd, Vardhman Textiles, and D’ Decor, among others, have launched anti-viral fabrics for apparel and home furnishing products, in partnership with international textile technology players. And they don’t come cheap; they are priced about 15-20 percent higher than the average products. (Source-the Hindu business line) crobials Will ensure that microbial adoption is not occurring on finished textiles. The surfaces treated with this finish becomes inhibitory for the development of microbial reservoirs. Green silver particles are the future trend for this finish, they are ecofriendly & cost-effective with efficient bactericidal properties & low toxicity.

3. Water and Oil repellents These are chemical finish. Resist the penetration of water into the fabric while allowing moisture or air passage. This finish is used in PPE, Tarpaulins, driver suits, umbrellas, swimming suits & Raincoats. Its use in PPE is more than sufficient to understand the demand for this finish.

The waterproof finish is slightly different from repellants. It forms a film on the surface of the fabric which prevents the permeability of water as well as

2.

Health Medical – Unconventional antimiair.

Figure 2: Oil repellant textile 4. Insect Repellent: This is the basic type of finish that will be especially looked out for in kid’s garments as the pandemic has surely created fear for “Fever & Flu”. So the parents will take all the efforts to keep away their kids from the mosquitoes. Post pandemic they will not be able to keep their kids away from the playground but clothes with the promising finish of mosquito repellent within pocket cost will surely be the one they would invest in. Other finishes like cool finish-moisture management, soil repellent finishes will also be encouraged to be used in kid’s wear & sportswear.

Figure 3Source Internet, kids playing

5. Anti-allergic finish This finish can be extracted from natural products having medicinal properties like Medicinal trees. Barks, stem, leaf, root & fruits are extracted for their

medicinal properties thereby making this finishes to be skin-friendly. These finishes will be looked out for kids wear as well as for textile products used by the beauty-conscious population. The trends for clear & youth skin will drive the sector with the help of finishes like

Aloe Vera Finish This finish restores the natural balance of body & skin by acting as a moisturizer & a pain soother. Vitamin E Finish It helps to hide visible aging signs, hydrates & moisturizes the skin. It also reduces sun damage along with the reduction in the appearance of scars. 6. Antifungal finish Lockdown has affected almost everything. The object in complete lockdown are our highly fashionable clothes, office wears & party wears. All lying ideal in our wardrobes with many other unused clothes. Monsoons moisture & clothes in the wardrobe will lead to a catastrophic effect of fungal growth if not maintained properly. Thereby creating awareness for an antifungal finish on garments preventing microbe’s growth & the foul odor that garments catch on by just lying around. 7. Fragrance & Special Finishes

Figure 4: Fitness Enthusiast source internet Health & Fitness are now going to see a more rapid pace of development. The unlock phase itself has seen the flooding of fitness enthusiasts in the common public places. The fragrance & special finishes on Gym- wears will ensure built in deodorizing technique providing a natural fragrance built-in garments extracted from essential oils -Flowers, Fruits, Essences with Aromatherapy Blends like Lavender, Alpine, etc.

8. Thermal Insulator Finishes Special nanodispersions in binder produce heat-retaining effect leading to infrared radiation owing to its porosity. It also has a deodorant effect against basic gases like ammonia and trim ethyl amine. Heavy Industry work wears have these finishes. The stringent rules & regulations for productions post COVID19 will see a preferential demand for this product.

Figure 5 Firefighter work suit (source: internet)

9. Antistatic Carpets & synthetic textiles in office spaces & rooms with electronic devices i.e. covering all possible common areas today are prone to generate a static charge and in worst scenario lead to electric shocks. It also causes fabrics to “cling”, when two layers of clothing rub together, causing discomfort & attracts dust and lint. This is why antistatic finishes are most commonly used on home & kitchen textiles.

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Ms. PRACHI GHELOT

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ANTI-VIRAL CLOTHING : A POSSIBILITY?

ABSTRACT

Manufacturers such as Vardhman Textiles, Welspun India Ltd, Donear Industries, RSWM Ltd (Mayur), Arvind Ltd, and D’ Decor, and many more have marketed and launched anti-viral textiles for clothing and home furnishing uses, in partnership with international high tech (in Textiles)players, like HeiQ. HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 is one of the absolute first textile advancements on the planet to be demonstrated 99.99% viable against SARS-CoV-2 in the research facility. HeiQ has listed its end-use as Medical textiles for protection, for example, utilized for face masks, air filters, clinical outfits, blinds, drapes; apparel, upholstery, sleeping cushions, mattresses, etc.

As the nation wrestles with the Covid-19 pandemic, anti-viral textiles appears to have become the trendy expression in the business. Players state ant-viral textiles and fabrics battle the spread and transmission of infections through different materials embedded or coated on the fabric proving their findings with various tests performed. Manufacturers such as Vardhman Textiles, Welspun India Ltd, Donear Industries, RSWM Ltd (Mayur), Arvind Ltd, and D’ Decor, and many more have marketed and launched anti-viral textiles for clothing and home furnishing uses, in partnership with international high tech (in Textiles)players, like HeiQ.

tile advancements on the planet to be demonstrated 99.99% viable against SARS-CoV-2 in the research facility. SARS-CoV-2 is a virus from the coronavirus family that causes COVID-19. Tests have been led by HeiQ with the Peter Doherty Institute for Infection and Immunity in Melbourne, Australia (Doherty Institute). HeiQ Viroblock is designed to inhibit the growth and persistence of bacteria and enveloped viruses on textile surfaces. The technology used is a combination of HeiQ’s registered silver technology and Vesicle technology. The silver infused technology pulls in the oppositely charged infectious viruses and makes a permanent bond with the viruses’ sulphur chain groups. Hence, the fatty spherical vesicle technology (Liposomes) assists with exhausting the viral layer of its cholesterol content in minutes, hence enabling the silver to pulverize the infection quickly.

HeiQ Viroblock NPJ03 is one of the absolute first texSimilar to all finishes, the antiviral finish also varies in effectiveness according to the concentration that is applied. The inclination is as following: 10% for

Maximum performance, used for basic applications like face covers and dispensable clinical nonwovens; 8.5% for strong performance, 7% good performance, for less critical applications, for example, everyday pieces of clothing and home textiles. HeiQ tested this technology for Residual virus by an adjusted ISO 20743 technique (Sendai virus), fast antiviral impact was exhibited within 2-5 minutes to exposure. The Antiviral technology was also tested following ISO 18184 as solid antiviral and ISO 20743 as solid antibacterial against encompassed viruses and bacteria. The technology is certified as safe and sustainable as all of its constituents are cosmetic grade, bio-based (72% bio-based carbon) and reused. The fabric lasts for 30 delicate home-washes at 60°C (140°F) and lasts up to 5 dry cleans on a wool fabric treated with Viroblock technology. The patent is pending for antiviral and antibacterial innovation. HeiQ has listed its end-use as Medical textiles for protection, for example, utilized for face masks, air filters, clinical outfits, blinds, drapes; apparel, upholstery, sleeping cushions, mattresses, etc. The technology can be used for all fibre types, especially non-wovens.

Arvind Ltd., a textile to-retail conglomerate, has gone into a specialized joint effort with Swiss textile pioneer HeiQ Materials AG and Taiwanese Jintex Corporation to present antiviral Viroblock textile innovation for the very first time in India under its sub -brand Intellifabrix. A shirt made with this innovation would cost about ₹2,500 ,while the open fabrics will be estimated somewhere in the range of ₹600 and ₹1,000 per meter. Donear Industries, which has collaborated with Swiss organization HeiQ to introduce the Neo-Tech anti viral textiles, which includes suiting and worsted textures. It is selling these items in the B2C segment, just as providing them to B2B clients. Other worldwide textile organizations, for example, HealthGuard Corporation, have additionally collaborated with Indian players for anti-viral fabrics with claims dependent on international test standards. Despite development in organizations selling fabric resistant to bacteria, viruses and fungi, there are no guidelines yet for such things from the ministries of Health or Textiles. There is no standard item for the use of anti-viral or anti-microbial fabrics. Different producers have their variants dependent on their advertising activities or client prerequisites.Authorities said that while anti-microbial textiles could slow the development of microorganisms somewhat, they would not offer any guarantee against the Covid-19 infection, as such material won’t have the option to stop its infiltration through the fabric to the body, particularly at the seams. On the off chance that the textile can’t stop penetration of the infection, at that point, it isn’t extremely useful against Covid-19. The World Health Organization likewise doesn’t recognize any such textile fabric or technology. Industry players said that innovation for hostile to viral or against microbial materials existed even before the Covid-19 pandemic and was being utilized to a great extent by doctors and health care workers. But the medical industry uses coveralls. A body coverall requires a textile with strong anti-viral properties, its seams are fixed and sealed so the likelihood of microbe entrance from needle punch zone lessens and there is no free opening at any point in the coverall through and through. Be that as it may, that is not the situation with common clothing apparel products. A typical piece of clothing clearly won’t be made like a coverall. It will have openings and air permeability(large pore size to allow breathability and comfort). COVID-19 virus is 120 nanometres, so it is critical to quantify pore size of the material which is labelled as anti-viral. The pore size ought to be under 120 nanometres, so the virus does not infiltrate the textile layer or seams. When it comes to maximum efficiency of anti-viral properties in apparel, fabric finish should be upheld strongly with sewing threads which are also treated with the anti-viral technology. COVID-19 has placed the shoppers in a dim circumstance of what to pick, customers would prefer not to face any challenge in regards to their wellbeing and security. The consumer will rush to buy the newly launched Anti-viral clothing without realizing that none of it has been demonstrated 100% successful against the COVID-19. For all brands and retailers of apparel who want to innovate anti-viral fabrics tried and tested against SARS-CoV-2 need to comprehend the significance and vulnerability of this procedure and the impediments of what they are going to guarantee.

References

ps://heiq.com/technologies/heiq-viroblock/

https://www.thehindubusinessline.com/economy/policy/rise-in-anti-viral-fabric-launches-in-india-but-health-textile-ministries-have-no-guidelines-for-such-products/article32038446.ece

https://in.apparelresources.com/technology-news/manufacturing-tech/ anti-viral-fabrics-in-garments-marketing-gimmick-or-reality/

Ms. RUTU KANADE

INTERN AT TEXTILE VALUE CHAIN

ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH - OVERVIEW

ABSTRACT

Degradation of the fiber and textile has become very common issue which happens due to microbial attack on the surface of the textiles. The microbes eat up the cellulosic part and make the textile weak and also few microbes leave stain on the textile. Antimicrobial finish helps to overcome this problem and act as a protective layer for the textile substrate. As consumers are slowly getting more concerned about health and hygiene factors, they should also be aware about what are the possible products available in the market. This review article will briefly cover, review of the Antimicrobial finish for the textile material, with introduction to the finish, agents used for the finish, mechanism of the finish, process, testing methods used, health and environmental issues and uses of antimicrobial finish. textiles. Recent development in the technical tex

Textile are an integral part of the human’s life. Immediately after birth till the death, from waking up to going back to bed at night, humans make use of textiles. Textiles are used for both aesthetics as well as for functional purpose. Many recent developments have been done in the field of functional textiles which includes many specialty finishes – Antimicrobial finish being one of it. Personal hygiene and cleanliness have also become a vital part today and slowly the awareness is increasing. Textiles when placed in a damp environment are susceptible to microbial growth. Textiles are a good media for the micro-organisms growth and are also a good carrier of microbes. Microbes deteriorate the fabric and make it weak which in turn hinders the overall performance of the fabric. Microbes also cause stains on the fabric and they not only destroy the fabric but also affect human skin and body to a great extent. Inner garments, socks or even area near armpit, where there are higher chances for growth of microorganism can lead to staining of the fabric, degradation of the textile, microbial growth, infection and spread of disease. Development of antimicrobial finish for textiles have addressed this issue. Growth of microbes on textiles is prevented by application of the anti-microbial finish. Although there are many records in history, where there is use of natural antimicrobial agents for preservation of

the fabric by eating up the cellulosic component of tiles and antimicrobial finish have proven beneficial which are also commercially viable. Agents used in finishing: There have been many developments in the finishing process and the agents used. Basically, a finishing agent aids to impart properties, which a textile lacks for. Finishing agents differs as per the type of

fiber, end use and other chemical substrates. Antimicrobial agents used include some organic agents like silicon based quaternary agent and quaternary ammonium compounds (QACs), N-Halamines; inorganic salts, triclosan, polyhexamethylenebiguanide (PHMB), iodophors, Halogenated phenols, thiophenols, heterocyclic, nitro compound, urea, amines and derivatives of formaldehyde. Inorganic agents include silver and gold, metal oxides, copper and zinc, titanium, magnesium. (Nadeem Afraz, 2019) Polybiguanides remain chemically bonded to the fiber surface and do not leach out, they act as barrier against microbes which come in contact with the textile. While the Halogenated phenols form a weak bond with the fiber and there by the halogenated phenols leaches out. (Naveed, 2018) Mechanism of the finish Finishing mechanisms are used based on the antimicrobial function performed by the particular finish on the textile:

1.

2.

3.

Control release: The antimicrobial finish is applied to the textile and is released during specific time in controlled manner when in use. Whenever the textiles are washed off the antimicrobial substance are removed and this is effective when there are microbes around the textile surface. Regeneration: Here the application of the finish produces active germ-killing substance which are regenerated during washing by addition of bleaching substances. The regeneration occurs when the fibers chemically modified covalent bonds are broken. Barrier block: In barrier block a layer of coating is applied which restrict the passage of microorganism into the fabric. (Akca, 2020) Process of finishing The antimicrobial finish can be applied to the textile material by following methods - 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Exhaust Pad-dry-cure Coating Spray and foam During fiber spinning Testing methods Textiles are in close touch to human body and thereby must undergo standard testing procedure. 1.

2.

3.

AATCC 100-2004 Assessment of Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials AATCC-100-1998 (USA) -Testing of antimicrobial efficacy of fabrics, Quantitative broth dilution test. AATCC- 147-1998 (USA): Qualitative- Agar diffusion test. (Krishnaveni, 2013) Health and environmental issues Due to increasing health concerns with chemical antimicrobial finishes, there are few studies associated with natural antimicrobial finishes on textile with certain modification of the natural substance. Chitosan and activated charcoal are among the natural antimicrobial substance. Among antimicrobials few works on the leaching mechanism, when applied on the textile surface they tend to move and thereby they can get transferred on the skin and can lead to skin rashes and irritation. (Uddin, 2014) End Uses Antimicrobial finished textiles have multiple end use, it is used on textiles to control spread of any harmful disease, to reduce odor due to perspiration and stain, to protect textiles from being attacked by microbes. It is also applied on uniforms, tents, defense textiles, geotextiles. Lately the finish is applied on home textiles, such as towels, curtains, bed linen, bath mats, outdoor, healthcare textile products, sports and leisure wear- sports bra, sports socks, gloves, caps, clothing and footwear industry – socks, undergarments. The finish is also applied on nonwoven that are used in medical sector - masks, sanitary materials, baby diapers, wipes, dressing materials, surgical threads, special materials for food and pharmaceuticals, automotive industry. (Aswini, 2007)

References

(n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/61/antimicrobial-finishing-methodologies

Akca, C. (2020, March). Intechopen. Retrieved from https://www.intechopen. com/online-first/the-waste-problem-of-antimicrobial-finishing

Nadeem Afraz, F. U. (2019, February). https://juniperpublishers.com/ctftte/pdf/ CTFTTE.MS.ID.555646.pdf. Retrieved from https://juniperpublishers. com/ctftte/pdf/CTFTTE.MS.ID.555646.pdf

Naveed, M. (2018). Performance on Antibacterial Finishes for Textile Applications. Trends in Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, 226-233.

Uddin, F. (2014). Environmental concerns in Antimicrobial Finishing of textiles. Internantional journal of textile science, 15-20.