Clematis Journal 2011

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Contents continued

The Clematis 2011

Clematis patens (Okayama).……………………….….……Mariko Nakanishi 86

Clematis montana var. grandiflora …...….Val Le May Neville-Parry 90

Clematis ladakhiana………………………………... ……Brian Collingwood 94

“Pray Sir, Let Me Have A Box Or Two Of Seed”………...…...Fran Palmeri 98

Meanwhile, in the East….…………………….………..…Keith Treadaway 105

Wood County Mystery Clematis, continued…………………….Sonnia Hill 111

Section 4: Propagation and Hybridisation Image: Clematis montana var. rubens „Tetrarose‟…………….Dianna Jazwinski 116 What To Do Next?...........................................................................Bernard Allen 117 Quick and Easy Seed Germination – Vermiculite Method…..Alison Merritt 122 Clematis patens from seed………………………….. ........Brian Collingwood 125

Raising New Clematis from Open-Pollinated Seeds……….…Helen Poirier 141 Viorna Group Seed Germination – Soaking and Peeling….….….Carol Lim 147 Hybridising – Simplifications for Amateurs…….……....Brian Collingwood 149

Experiments with C. viticella and Tissue Culture………...……....Mike Miller 162

Montana Seedlings Growing Up at „By The Way‟..Val Le May Neville-Parry 170 Image: Clematis „Elizabeth‟……….…………………….…Dianna Jazwinski 174

Section 5: New Clematis Registrations……...…… .........Duncan Donald 175 Image: Clematis „Wee Willie Winkie‟………………………Dianna Jazwinski 178

Section 6: Concluding Items

The International Clematis Society – 2011 Report …....….Ken Woolfenden 179

Obituary: Bengt Sundström……………………….……...Karin Sundström 180 Ben Clifton……………..Bernard Allen, Denise MacDonald, Everett Leeds 183

Maurice Foster Receives the Highest Accolade of the RHS….Everett Leeds 185 Poem, The Clematis……………………………… …....Alexander Bathgate 186 Image: Clematis montana „Lilacina‟…………………………Dianna Jazwinski 189

S SE ECCTTIIOON N 1 1 –– Y YO OUUR R S SO OCCIIEETTY Y

From Your Editor Brian Collingwood

WWelcome to The Clematis 2011. „Thank you‟ once again to everyone, home and overseas, who has contributed to this latest edition of our Society‟s annual Journal, The Clematis. We are pleased to present a wide range of illustrated articles covering many aspects of clematis culture, the intention being that there is „something for everyone‟ within these pages. As in previous years, many of our best and most enjoyable contributions have been penned by unsung BCS members and everyday gardeners – no formal expertise required: so, if you have something to say or write about clematis, please let me know and I will gladly include as much as possible in our Journal. Hence, whether your particular appreciation is in the culture, propagation, breeding, history or even the more technical aspects of Clematis, I hope you will find something here of interest and enjoyment.

2011 has once again seen a further influx of new and exciting clematis cultivars being registered (see the article by International Clematis Registrar, Duncan Donald, for the details) and several new plants coming onto the market for the first time. Ongoing breeding and seed raising activity continues slowly but surely to widen the range of plants available. Of course, such steady evolution is nothing novel and from past experience we know, ultimately, that only the very best new plants will stand the test of time and even fewer will eventually become accepted favourites. Nevertheless, for gardeners today, especially in the UK and Europe, the choice of beautiful and floriferous clematis is huge, right across the whole range of cultivar groups. There are clematis to suit the widest variety of gardening situations, in many countries and climates.

In a wider sense, though in tandem, work both „in the field‟ and in the laboratory is also adding to our store. The interesting new Viorna Group species Clematis carrizoensis has recently been described (as noted in The Clematis 2010), in the USA and other new American species look set to be announced in the very near future. DNA studies are now being undertaken in earnest and relationships between plants are being gradually elucidated and better understood. All of this has great implications for future breeding programmes and the activities of raisers, so we can surely expect many more new and thrilling hybrids and selections to steadily emerge, in the years to come.

Brian Collingwood

Articles for 2012

Items for The Clematis 2012 to: B. Collingwood, bcollingwood@ntlworld.com Handwritten submissions are most welcome. 600 words are suitable for a shorter article. If submitting technical articles, please include explanation that will aid the lay reader.

COPYRIGHT OWNERSHIP OF THE CONTENT OF THIS PUBLICATION RESIDES WITH THE RESPECTIVE AUTHOR OR AUTHORS THE REPRODUCTION OF ANY PART IS FORBIDDEN WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION. PLEASE CONTACT THE EDITOR FOR FURTHER INFORMATION

Journal, Newsletters, Advisory Service, Seed Exchange, Lectures, Slide Shows, Pruning Demonstrations, Display Gardens, Lists of Clematis Nurseries and Open Gardens, Plant Sales, Tours

Membership runs from January 1st to December 31st each year

Application to join should be made to:

The Membership Secretary

Linda Crowther, 11 Norton Mandeville, Ingatestone, Essex CM4 0LN. Tel 01277 822883 email: ljc.1@btinternet.com

Cheques payable to „The British Clematis Society‟

Overseas payments by Eurocheque, Bank Draft, International Money Order (in Sterling), Internet (Paypal)

Or simply use your credit card at our Website http://www.britishclematis.org

RHS Affiliation No. 10586944 Registered Charity No. 1049107

Who Does What in the British Clematis Society 2011-2012

Chairman

Denise MacDonald 2 Ravensbourne Avenue, Shortlands, Bromley, Kent BR2 OBP

Tel 0208 460 1820 email: amacdo0530@ntlworld.com

Vice Chairman

Bernard Allen 32 Hollybrow, Selly Oak, Birmingham, B29 4LX

Tel 0121 476 5725 email: bernard.allen2@btinternet.com

Hon. Treasurer - Finance

Charles Hills 7 Florence Avenue, South Wigston, Leicester LE18 4LQ

Tel: 01162 783274 email: charlesehills@aol.com

Honorary Secretary

Charne Griffiths Haselour Cottage, Harlaston, Tamworth, Staffordshire B79 9JT

Tel: 01827 383613 email: charnegrif@aol.com

Hon. Membership Secretary - Membership enquiries

Linda Crowther 11 Norton Mandeville, Ingatestone, Essex CM4 0LN

Tel: 01277 822883 e-mail: ljc.1@btinternet.com

Journal Editor

Brian Collingwood 11 Mirfield Drive, Monton, Eccles, Manchester M30 9LH

Tel: 0161 950 5329 email: bcollingwood@ntlworld.com

Journal liaison

Charne Griffiths Haselour Cottage, Harlaston, Tamworth, Staffordshire B79 9JT

Tel: 01827 383613 email: charnegrif@aol.com

Journal advertising co-ordinators

Charne Griffiths Haselour Cottage, Harlaston, Tamworth, Staffordshire B79 9JT

Tel: 01827 383613 email: charnegrif@aol.com

Publicity /Publications

Bernard Allen 32 Hollybrow, Selly Oak, Birmingham, B29 4LX

Tel 0121 476 5725 email: bernard.allen2@btinternet.com

Tel: 01252 319305

AGM/Committee focal point

Charne Griffiths Haselour Cottage, Harlaston, Tamworth, Staffordshire B79 9JT

Tel: 01827 383613 email: charnegrif@AOL.com

Show Co-ordinator and Sales Tablc

Sylvia Currie

The Clematis 2011

Little John‟s, Muntham, Itchingfield, Barnes Green, West Sussex

Tel: 01403 731513 RH13 7NM email: sylvia.mc@live.co.uk

Newsletter Editor

Jack Gittoes

Rosebay, Holly Lane, Bull Hill, Lymington, Hants SO41 5QZ

Tel: 01590 677491 email: jgittoes@btinternet.com

Distribution of Newsletter and back copies of the Journal

Charne Griffiths Haselour Cottage, Harlaston, Tamworth, Staffordshire B79 9JT

Tel: 01827 383613 email: charnegrif@AOL.com

BCS Website - www.britishclematis.org.uk

Internet HelpDesk enquiries

Steve Christmas 6 Hawthorne Close, Grateley, Hampshire, SP11 8JL

Tel: 01264 889735 email: steve@schristmas.freeserve.co.uk

Events Co-ordinators including receipts for events

Liz Gibbison

Saffron Gate, Tickers Heath, Alfold, Surrey GU6 8HV

Tel: 01483 200219 email: davidgibbison@btinternet.com

Annette Stevens 8 Farm Walk, Ash Green, Guildford, Surrey GU12 6HX

Tel: 01252 319305

Panel of technical proof readers

Victoria Matthews, Mike Brown, Roy Nunn, Brian Cromie, Glenis Dyer

Slide Librarian

Ken Woolfenden 3 Cuthberts Close, Waltham Cross, Hertfordshire EN7 5RB

Tel: 01992 636524 email: ken.woolfenden@dial.pipex.com

Sunbury Walled Garden Co-ordinator

Denise MacDonald, 2 Ravensbourne Avenue, Shortlands, Bromley, Kent BR2 OBP

Tel: 0208 460 1820 email: amacdo0530@ntlworld.com

Helmsley Walled Garden Co-ordinator.

Ron Kirkman 86 Under Lane, Grotton, Saddleworth, Oldham, Lancs, OL4 5RN

Tel: 0161 633 9732 email: ronkirkman@hotmail.co.uk

Seed Exchange

Mike Brown

Clematis Corner, 15 Plough Close, Shillingford, Wallingford, Oxon 0X10 7EX

Tel: 01865 858721 email: clematiscorner@btinternet.com

Seed payments

Glenis Dyer Elm Close, Binton Road, Welford-on-Avon, Stratford-uponAvon, Warwickshire Tel: 01789 750793 email: glenisdyer@btinternet.com

Local groups co-ordinator vacant

Trial Grounds Co-ordinator & Speakers Panel

Everett Leeds Flat 1, 4 Hardwicke Road, Reigate, Surrey RH2 9AG Tel: 01737 247399 email: everett@leeds-family.co.uk

Membership Badges

William Davies 12 Oakway Drive, Frimley, surrey GU16 8LF Tel: 01276-28630 email:William.davies24@yahoo.com

Regional Representatives

Northern Group

Sue Reade 123, Andover Avenue, Middleton, Manchester M24 1JQ Tel: 0161 643 2985 email: sue.reade@uwclub.net or readesue@gmail.com.

Midlands Group

Josie Hulbert „Trentham‟, 56, Haden Park Road, Cradley Heath, Warley, West Midlands B64 7HE Tel: 01384 633220 email: Jhulbert1@aol.com

Wessex Group

Valerie Le May Neville-Parry Lodge Drove, Woodfalls, Salisbury, Wiltshire, SP5 2NH Tel:-01725511931 email: val@lmnp.co.uk

East Anglia Group

Linda Crowther 11 Norton Mandeville, Ingatestone, Essex CM4 0LN Tel: 01277 822883 e-mail: ljc.1@btinternet.com

South East Group

Pam Davies 12 Oakway Drive, Frimley, surrey GU16 8LF Tel: 01276-28630 email:William.davies24@yahoo.com

Local groups co-ordinator

Linda Crowther 11 Norton Mandeville, Ingatestone, Essex CM4 0LN Tel: 01277 822883 e-mail: ljc.1@btinternet.com

Anyone interested in a vacant position is invited to telephone the Chairman for an informal chat. All other matters which do not fall into the areas of responsibility set out above please, contact The Chairman, Denise MacDonald, details as above.

Chairman‟s notes

Denise MacDonald

YYour Committee has continued work on updating the affairs of our Society to ensure compliance with Charity Commission requirements; at the 2011 AGM the new Constitution was presented and accepted unanimously. Richard Barker is updating the legal framework and talks to set up a bursary, due for completion before the 2012 AGM, are ongoing with the RHS. We welcomed Richard Barker and Lynda Crowther onto Committee, Lynda taking on the duties of Membership Secretary. Charne Griffiths swapped hats to become Honorary Secretary and Bernard Allen became Vice Chairman. We still need a new Treasurer and I am most grateful to Charles Hills for agreeing to continue in the post for the time being. Grateful thanks are also due to Karen Park, for her support and to Glenis Dyer for her long service. Margaret Morris was elected as an Honorary Member for her services to the Society; this was endorsed by Members and warmly applauded. Awards were presented for successful plants at the Trials grounds (see Everett‟s report)

Our most pressing need is to find new Committee Members to do the jobs vital to our survival. Despite numerous appeals, few new faces have come forward and our presence at shows has decreased due to a lack of volunteers. Four Committee members must stand down next year, having served beyond the time allowed in the constitution. Please, please support your Society and consider if you can spare time to join the Committee. We meet four times a year and BCS will defray your travel expenses; you will make new friends and influence the Society‟s future. Please contact myself or any Committee Member if you would like to help.

Our local groups continue to thrive, putting on many interesting clematis visits including the Beth Chatto Gardens, Feeringbury Manor and Abbey Dore Court, with talks given by Everett Leeds and by Ruth & Jon Gooch at Pershore. The BCS ran stands at the Malvern and Tatton flower shows and also at the Sunbury Clematis Festival; we now look forward to our Indoor Meeting at Brinsbury, in September

We have continued to focus on Society running costs but have decided to resume issuing four Newsletters per year, returning us to our previous level of communication with Members.

Thank you for your continued support and for electing me as Chairman once again.

Donations to the Society

This year we have received several generous donations to the Society Richard Barker paid £150 with the intention of taking a back page advert in the Journal, but donated this amount when he did not use the space. Sylvia Denny made a donation and paid for both of her children to become Life Members, a total of £1,000 Wim Snoeijer and Jan van Zoest donated a large number of beautiful clematis plants which were sold at the Sunbury Festival and also at Glenis and Eric Dyer‟s open garden, raising over £400. To all of these I say on behalf of the Society a very big and grateful THANK YOU!

TREASURER”S ANNUAL REPORT 2011 RESULTS FOR THE YEAR 2010

The Society made a loss of £3599 (2009: loss £665). The loss of income over expenditure was attributable to the following factors: a drastic reduction in interest rates on the Society funds, increased costs – particularly postage, reduced sales income and reduced donations. Volunteers still continue to undertake the majority of day-to-day administration of the Society‟s affairs, which would be expensive to provide if the Society had to pay for external provision of the services.

Forecast for 2011

Whilst the Society still continues to attract new members, in line with the majority of other Plant Societies, membership numbers continue to fall gradually. The finances of the Society still remain strong. Interest rates have fallen to virtually zero, which has had a major impact. Costs continue to rise, and events and shows are not so well supported, due to the economic climate caused by the recession The Committee continue to monitor costs and work within the reduced income. The number of national events has been reduced, however the local groups continue to operate very successfully. The Society is also faced with continuing changes and increased reporting requirements of our affairs in line with our Charitable status, and the Society maintains reserves to buy in support in the short term, should this be necessary.

The summarized accounts do not contain sufficient information to allow for a full understanding of the financial affairs of the Society. Copies of the Trustee‟s Annual Report, Independent Examiner‟s Report and Full Accounts can be obtained from the Treasurer: Charles E Hills, 7 Florence Avenue, South Wigston, Leicester, LE18 4LQ. Email: Charlesehills@aol.com

BRITISH CLEMATIS SOCIETY

MINUTES OF THE 21st ANNUAL GENERAL MEETING HELD AT PERSHORE COLLEGE ON SATURDAY, 26th MARCH 2011

1. Attendance – 82 members and their guests were warmly welcomed by the Chairman, Denise MacDonald.

(a) Apologies for Absence were received from Ron Kirkman and Steve Christmas and those sending proxy votes.

(b) Proxy Votes Received. 23 members returned proxy votes, which nominated the chairman as proxy. A list of those members sending proxy votes was made available at the meeting.

2. Minutes.

(a) The minutes of the 20th-AGM held on 27th March 2010, having previously been published in the 2010 Journal were agreed by those present to be an accurate record and were signed off by the Chairman.

(b) Matters arising. The Chairman advised that such matters would be covered during the course of the meeting.

3. Chairman’s Address.

The Committee has been working to complete the new constitution which is now ready for presentation to this meeting My grateful thanks to the Sub committee of Everett Leeds and Mike Brown, who both ensured we kept to the original intentions of the Society and William Davies who kept an eye on correct English and gave many hours with me, absorbing Richard Barker‟s very valuable legal advice

We have also looked at the Society‟s finances to find ways where savings could be made as the expenses exceed our income. This is due to a smaller membership and loss of income from book sales (these are now available on line at a lower price than we can buy them) etc; we hope that the increase in subscriptions will help to resolve this situation. In the meantime you may have noticed „The Clematis’ was smaller this year and that there will only be three issues of the Newsletter, the production of these 2 items being our largest expense

Shows- We had stalls at Ardingly, gold award; Malvern, third award; Tatton, silver award; the Midland group along with Margaret Morris also took a stall to Eastnor Castle Garden Festival in April, these well deserved results reflect the great hard work and effort of our volunteers. Sadly we did not go to Harrogate due to lack of members willing to help with these responsibilities. We are increasingly finding problems with obtaining plants in flower for display at these events, this was the major factor in our decision not to attend Ardingly in 2011, where, being in the floral marquee, we are expected to produce a „Chelsea‟ style display.

VisitsandEvents- National meetings have included weekend visits to Northumberland and Norfolk, gardens and indoor meetings at Malvern and Hilliers, with excellent speakers Raymond Evison, Roy Lancaster and David Jewell Our Midland and Northern

The Clematis 2011

local groups organised busy programmes. The East Anglia group is gaining momentum; the Wessex has a good nucleus of members though again more help is needed with organisation. So far the South East is not finding support for their efforts. If you are interested or have ideas for any of our local groups contact details can be found in „The Clematis’

DisplayGardens- Our volunteers continue to maintain the clematis collection at Sunbury on Thames with pruning day attracting many members of the public to watch and learn, as does the midsummer mini festival In the autumn our volunteers answered a request to help plant Clematis in the local church remembrance garden

At Helmsley there has been a change in the management team which is resulting in the clematis collection being moved within the garden, BCS volunteers form working parties several times a year.

Publications- We have splendid new publicity boards and leaflets on Pruning and Clematis through the Year, the Montana and Beginners booklets should be available very shortly; grateful thanks to Bernard Allen and the team who produce these and for the many press notices issued through the year. The Newsletter appeared magically each quarter; Jack does need your „news‟ - any member can contribute.

TheClematis- Our Editor has produced another splendid issue of our Journal „The ‘Clematis‟ . Brian welcomes your articles –he will „polish‟ them, if you feel nervous! Bursaries- The Committee are still looking at ways forward to establish a Bursary. I have explored ways this might be set up with Bill Simpson, the Chairman of the RHS Bursaries Advisory Committee and reported back on this option. No decision has yet been made.

TrialsGround- Everett Leeds and his small team continue to evaluate the garden worthiness of clematis cultivars at the trial grounds at Wisley.

Seed- Where would we be without Mike Brown‟s seed exchange; please keep collecting and cleaning.

RHS- Held a meeting in November for Specialist Societies and Affiliated Gardening Groups to discuss ways they could be of more help. Following this, we were invited to take a free membership recruitment stall in the Garden Room at Wisley on the March 4th Open day. It was agreed that the exhibition could have been better positioned and signposted, but we had a good day making contacts and exchanging ideas with other Societies and getting to know the new RHS personnel, despite not recruiting any new members.

Everything we do depends on our gallant band of volunteers, many of whom have served for many, many years and the health of the Society needs us to find replacements. We have two members of the Committee standing for an additional year, having already done two terms of three years - they must stand down at next year‟s AGM. Most importantly, this year no-one has come forward to fill the Hon. Treasurer‟s post; even with someone doing the day to day banking and bill paying, we will have to spend a minimum of £1,000 per year to have the accounts made up professionally and presented to the Charity Commission.

I must finish by thanking all of those who do help, with special mention for our two retiring officers: Charles Hills, who stepped in as Hon. Treasurer mid way through 2005,

The Clematis 2011

continuing until now, and Glenis Dyer, Newsletter editor for many years, Membership Secretary for the last 5 years, helps at shows, gives talks and who still finds time to open her garden several times a year.

My final „thank you‟ is to everyone who has supported me this year and to the Society for their trust in electing me as Chairman Denise MacDonald

4. Annual Accounts 2010

Abbreviated draft accounts had been circulated with the February 2011 newsletter in which members were advised that final copies would be available on request by the 21st of February. Final approved accounts, signed off as approved by the Independent Examiner, were circulated at the meeting. There being no queries or questions to the Treasurer their adoption was proposed by Mike Brown and seconded by Linda Crowther. Passedunanimously.

5. Report of the Membership Secretary. (Glenis Dyer)

The Membership Secretary gave the listed membership position as 678 of which 131 were still outstanding and are unlikely to renew. Hence current fully paid up members currently stands at 547. Of those not renewing the reasons given were too far to travel to meetings, downsizing and death. It was noted that no one mentioned fee increases. On the contrary many commented on how much they had enjoyed their membership and the Journals and Newsletters. With regard to new members the Society currently gets between 3 to 4 new members per month.

6. Honorary Membership

As advised in the Agenda the Executive Committee recommended that Margaret Morris be considered for Honorary Membership in recognition of her past services to the Society. In particular the work she did organising events, running the show tables and helping to raise funds over many years. It was recognised that without her hard work the Society would not have the cushion of reserves to draw on to tide it over these difficult times and plan for the future.

Proposed: - Glenis Dyer seconded by Charne Griffiths Passed unanimously

7. Constitution

Richard Baker briefly explained that the reason for revision and updating of the old constitution was because there were areas within it that were either ambiguous or confusing. As a result not only had these been clarified but the opportunity had been taken to update it in the light of current best practice. There being no questions from the floor it was proposed that the revised constitution be approved. Proposed by:- Everett Leeds and seconded by:- Jack Gittoes Passedunanimously

8. Trials Ground Results (Everett Leeds)

The following certificates of commendation were awarded to:-

Clematis 2011

Wim Snoeijer (The Netherlands) for C. „Jackmanii Purpurea‟

Charlie Pridham (Cornwall) for C „Poldice‟

Tetsuya Hirota (Japan) for C „Fukuzono‟

9. Election of Officers.

Because Karen Park was not standing for re-election she temporarily took over the Chair. Also because there were no contested positions it was agreed that all the positions for election or re-election of committee members be dealt with in two separate motions, one for Honorary Officers and one for Committee Members.

It was pointed out that although the Society had received nominations covering most of the positions, no nominations had been received for the position of Treasurer. Charles Hills the current Treasurer must stand down as he has already served 7 years as Honorary Treasurer, one year over the 6 year limit as set out in the Constitution. Nominations for the position were therefore invited from the floor and none had been received from the membership. As no one from the floor was willing to volunteer for this position Charles reluctantly offered to continue to do the work for a further year while a replacement was sought from within the membership.

The following motions were then put to the membership:-

Honorary Officers

Chairman Denise MacDonald: 2 Ravensbourne Avenue, Shortlands, Bromley, Kent BR2 OBP

Vice Chairman Bernard Allen: 32 Hollybrow, Selly Oak, Birmingham B29 4LX

Hon Secretary Charne Griffiths: Haselour Cottage, Harlaston, Tamworth, Staffordshire B79 9JT

Hon Treasurer

Charles Hills: 7, Florence Avenue, South Wigston, Leicester LE 18 4QL

Membership Secretary Linda Crowther:- 11 Norton Manderville, Ingatestone, Essex, CM4 0LN

Proposed by Margaret Morris, seconded by Annette Stevens Passedunanimously

Committee Members

Liz Gibbison:- Saffron Gate, Tickners Heath, Alfold, Surrey GU6 8HU

The Clematis 2011

Richard Barker:- 152 Westerfield Road, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP43 3AF

Jack Gittoes:- Rosebay, Holly Lane, Bull Hill, Lymington, Hants SO41 5QZ

Sylvia Currie:- Little John‟s, Muntham, Itchingfield, Barnes Green, W Sussex RH13 0NH

Proposed by Mike Brown, seconded by Ruth Gooch Passedunanimously

After the above positions were approved, the chair was passed back to Denise who thanked, on behalf of the Society, the retiring committee members for the work they had done in their respective roles while serving on the committee.

8. Appointment of Independent Examiner.

The appointment of an Independent Examiner for 2011 was deferred pending the appointment of a new Treasurer.

The AGM was duly closed by the Chairman with a vote of thanks for members‟ attendance.

Margaret Morris receives the Certificate of Honorary BCS Membership from Denise MacDonald

BCS INTERNATIONAL TRIALS GROUND REPORT- YEAR 2009 PLANTING RESULTS

Everett Leeds UK

TThe BCS has its trials ground at the Royal Horticultural Society Deers Farm site at Wisley, Surrey. The soil is sandy loam, hungry, sharp draining and the position is in a frost pocket. That is the bad news! However, the good news is that we enjoy a good relationship with the very helpful staff on site.

Judging for the period 2009 – 2011 has now finished and the maths have been done. We have two cultivars awarded a „Commended Certificate‟ gaining at least 70% of total marks but no candidates for a „Certificate of Merit‟ which requires marks of 80% and over.

← C.‘Zoeastri’ EAST RIVERDiversifolia Group, a deciduous, nonclimbing sub-shrub, raised by Wim Snoeijer at the nursery of Jan van Zoest in Boskoop, The Netherlands gained 77.2%.

C. „Minister‟ – Early Large-Flowered Group, a deciduous climbing shrub, raised by U. & A. Kivistik of Estonia pre-1982 (at Roogoja) and gained 72.2% of total marks.

The other plants trialled were C. „Zooct‟ OCTOPUS

49.4%; C. „Queen of Holland‟ 64.4%; C. „Propertius‟ 63%; C. „The Bride‟ 37.2%; C. „Evipo 033‟ AVANT GARDE 60.2%; C. „Evipo 005‟ PEPPERMINT 10.2%; C. „Odoriba‟ 68.2%.

←C.‘Minister’

The season started a lot earlier this year and as a consequence most cultivars finished flowering early too. Also on the final lap mildew affected some of the plants greatly. We are now looking for entries for the 2012 planting from amateurs and from the horticultural profession. We can accommodate up to ten cultivars, ideally in 2 or 3 litre pots and three of each to set against each obelisk or position.

Please contact me by phone on 01737 247399 or email: everett@leeds-family.co.uk

View from Clematis Corner 2011

Mike Brown UK

WWild birds and animals are not the ideal companions for clematis, however, I personally love wild animals, especially if they are on the same plate as new potatoes and green peas!

I have lived here for over twenty-four years and this is the first year that the clematis have suffered damage from pheasants, throughout spring. A pair of them decided that the new green shoots of herbaceous clematis and the lower new growth of the climbers made an ideal salad bar, specifically for their benefit. It has cost us a great deal of money buying rolls of small mesh metal guard wire to protect the lowest 60cm of dozens of clematis stems. Until we found the culprits, we were blaming slugs and snails but our local thrushes were successfully dealing with those particular pests. Once the protection was in place, the clematis grew normally, so I obtained another large expensive roll to protect even more of them, next year. Pheasants are quite persistent creatures and they can reach many parts of the garden without us seeing them, however, unless they develop wire-cutter type teeth, they will have to find a new café next spring.

We thought that would be the end of our problems but in June a rabbit (well, there was only one at the beginning) moved in from the adjacent field, even though there is a main road between the field and our garden. Although I have not yet noticed any real damage to my clematis, Anne recently found her ELEANOR OF GUILDFORD (C. „Notpy‟) had been eaten back to its stump, so I anticipate that war will now be declared on any rabbit seen in the garden from this point onwards! However, rabbits are not so easy to deal with these days – we are not allowed to trap them etc and we do not have a dog. The local cats seem more interested in murdering young birds and anyway, most cats eventually use up all their nine lives crossing and re-crossing the main road. Plastic clematis vines are becoming more realistic and if we have many more seasons like this one, then that will be the only type of clematis on display in this garden before much longer.

Our garden soil is very dry, even well below 4”. We religiously check our local BBC weather forecasts online and then furiously curse the BBC for putting out such drivel, not once in ten attempts do they get it right. They keep saying that we are going to get light rain, heavy rain, sporadic or frequent showers and what we actually get is nothing: zilch! Normally it is so inaccurate that we have to spend an enormous amount of time watering, just to keep plants alive. Tap water is no substitute for a soaking by rain, in fact it only allows the plants to exist until such time as we get a real good downpour. We have well over 700 gallons of water butt capacity but of course we need rain before the

butts can become of any use, plus of course, no amount of butt water can keep all our plants alive for long, once the rain stops.

We have recently seen the calling cards of hedgehogs in the garden and they are always welcome. So far, the little duck that followed me down the drive one morning, is also welcome, providing she does not bring her relations for a holiday and foul up our new drive.

Last year, on St George‟s day, we bought four Point of Lay chickens. So that visitors to the garden could see a range of beautifully coloured birds (as opposed to having just four exhausted ex-battery Rhode Island Red hens) we paid good money and bought one each of four very different breeds. They were all in the same large run when we bought them so we knew they would get on well together. Some hopes!! They came into lay well enough and we were soon getting three or four eggs a day, however, to our complete consternation they all started to develop bald spots where previously there had been these beautiful coloured feathers. We kept an eye on them and found that it wasn‟t one bird having a go at her colleagues – all four of them were pecking the feathers from each of the others. We read books, looked online, went back to where we got them from and generally did all we were advised to, as well as spending a fortune doing it. Not only did we not find a feather (they were, and still are, eating them) the bald spots got bigger and very unsightly, with the result that if we want to eat them, the plucking is nearly done already, honestly, they are not fit to be seen in mixed company. We used anti-pecking spray and Gentian Violet, one of us holding the bird, the other doing the spraying: we got some in the right places but we both got well covered ourselves and it is difficult to get off. This winter will obviously be the end of the line for these particular birds

Above and all pics below: Clematisphlebantha

The Clematis 2011

because there is no way they could be kept warm enough, unless someone starts knitting, but, knowing these eyesores, they would be sure to develop a taste for wool too.

A little bit about clematis at last; many years ago, we relied on montanas to hide unsightly sheds etc but nowadays we have things like „Kaiu‟ to do the job better, with masses of flowers over a much longer period. I have another, but less obvious, clematis to do the same task, in fact I have just finished hacking it back so that the window cleaner can get at the windows – at over 6m it was smothering the glass and frames. The whole plant is at least 8m across. It is Clematis phlebantha and it has lovely foliage, which is just as well as it is very shy when it comes to flowering. How many of us subscribe to those intrepid people who go overseas to collect seeds, I wonder? It is always exciting getting wild collected seed and I find the germination exceptionally good. Normally, collectors just put a collection number on the packet, the real name only comes to light after

The Clematis 2011

the resulting plants bloom. With seed donated to the BCS Seed Exchange, they usually have a name, or, if from a group of plants, the mixture name. I sometimes have real doubts about whether or not the odd batch of donated seed is actually what it‟s claimed to be. Often I sow a little myself to check but I include the bulk of this seed under the donated name anyway (I have no alternative on that point). More often than not it turns out to be something very different to what it said on the packet and sometimes they are not clematis at all! This is not good because any number of packets could have been sent out by the time my trial seeds germinate. I have had no complaints on this problem from members but it is bound to happen one day. I could, of course, discard anything I am not certain of, but that is not practical either.

I have a sad point to end on. Last year, around springtime, Everett Leeds and I filled in a registration form for Clematis „Landsdown Brown‟, the dwarf C. fusca × C. integrifolia cross that the late Gill Brown had grown from BCS seed. Within a fortnight of completing the registration paperwork, the clematis itself collapsed and only came back into weak growth in that autumn. This spring, it came into growth normally but then gradually faded away completely and, two months later, there was no sign of life underground either. I had delayed sending off the registration paperwork (on purpose) to ensure I had a decent plant to propagate from, once the plant was formally registered. Now, as far as I am aware, there is no live plant anywhere. I know who I gave pieces of the original plant to and none of those have survived, although seedlings of at least one of them have been offered for sale. There seems no point in registering a clematis that is not in existence. A great shame really as Gill was a keen and active BCS member, as well as a personal friend.

Clematis remain an important part of my life but I am at last beginning to realise that there is more to life than just clematis. Have fun.

Grumpy

Thoughts from a Clematis First Timer

Helen Lonergan UK

IIImages © R. Nunn and (top) B. Allen

n the spring of 2008, having severely pruned some climbers along one border fence, I figured that there might be room for a clematis; something for midsummer, purple, showy even, to complement the perennials in the border and my neighbour‟s climbing roses. I went to RHS Wisley for inspiration thinking that I would have more chance of coming away from there with a plant that was disease resistant and a good performer. I plumped for Clematis VERSAILLES

„Evipo025‟ – don‟t ask me what group! It is a hot border so I took care to cover the roots with a broken pot, gave a generous feed of blood fish and bone, watered well and hoped for the best. I was rewarded in year one with a few large single violet flowers with a darker bar and red-mauve anthers… very dramatic. I cut it back in the autumn not knowing if this was correct. I fed in spring with chicken pellets and year two yielded a better display. I didn‟t cut back so severely but once again in February 2011 I fed it with a combination of chicken pellets and blood fish and bone (a good handful). As a result of the hot spring an abundant display appeared in early May and kept on flowering for over a month, beautiful and disease free. I notice from the label that it should flower through June and July. Mine has been consistently earlier, perhaps because it is in a hot border and/or because I live in the SE of London. I heartily recommend the plant for its drama and ease of growing for the new clematis gardener.

Now to find a clematis for a north wall, which is not a montana... any suggestions?

My Love of Clematis

Sylvia Lefroy-Owen UK

IIAll images © Bernard Allen

t was 1940 and at 6 years of age I had been evacuated to an aunt‟s Estancia on the Pampas of Argentina. The drive of the ranch was planted with tall, rustling Eucalyptus trees, and we would rub the leaves in our hands, to release the lovely fragrance of the oil, and make up „medicines‟ for our very tolerant, fat old pony called Zapallo or Pumpkin. At a loose end one day, in the hot and dusty pampas, a favourite „gaucho‟ friend Redolfo pointed out the house where his family lived. It was a modest

Josie Hulbert welcomes BCS Midlands Group guests to Sylvia and Peter’s home

single storey building, but there it stood, with almost the whole of the front of the house totally ablaze with the most glorious purple very largeflowered clematis. The huge blooms stood out against the browns of the parched grass and the wood and brick of the building. That was the first time I had ever heard the word „clematis‟ and that moment and picture have remained in my mind and stood out vividly, ever since.

After the war I arrived back in the UK and in due course life brought marriage and a career in Nursing, while living in a flat in central London. Gardening began to feature more prominently in our lives in later years but this wasn‟t until our three children had reached their teens and we were running a business; at this point we had a small sheltered garden in a suburban house in Surrey. I didn‟t come across clematis for many years – roses always seemed to be the dominant theme In my imagination clematis was still a rare and somewhat exotic plant. However, one

C. × diversifolia ‘Hendersonii’

The Clematis 2011

year we were given a „Perle d‟Azur‟ as an anniversary present and clematis re-entered our lives. This was quickly followed by a beautiful Clematis florida var. sieboldiana, which thrived against a warm fence, displaying its stunning purple centres. Both plants flourished in our sheltered south facing garden and before long they were joined by a Clematis cirrhosa. This was still one of the first clematis we had ever bought and our C. cirrhosa unfortunately never flourished. We were about to enter a steep learning curve.

A move to a very windy garden in the north of Herefordshire eventually followed; the completely open aspect was a challenge but we nevertheless had abundant space in which to „make a garden‟. How did all this come about, exactly? In 2000 – „Millennium Year‟, we decided to sell the lease of our London shop, which sold a wide range of materials for creating needlecrafts. At the shop, I was designing bespoke knitwear which was then „made up‟ into finished items by a talented team of knitters, to be exported to department stores in the US and Japan. We believe that people are instinctively creative, if given a chance, so the shop was called „Creativity‟. Each garment had a ticket signed by the individual maker and the quality was such that the work was highly appreciated by both Buyers and customers throughout the world. The most fun was completing special one-off commissions needed for various musical shows in the London Theatres and for the creation of specific bespoke items used in various forms of advertising After all this we wanted an outlet for another form of creativity.

Where the heart is…

BCS visitors in discussion

We had always loved gardening so we thought it would be fun to „make a garden‟ from scratch. After a long search we found a stone farmhouse with seven acres (since this is a large area we are able to lend some of the fields out to local sheep farmers) and at the start there was a small area of formal garden around the house itself, with plenty of stone walls and barns. We inherited two white spring flowering montanas, large and mature, a struggling „Jackmanii‟ and a dark purple very vigorous viticella. We didn‟t make a formal plan but worked outwards from the house, which is set atop a fairly steep hill. We extended the garden into the field and a kindly friend with a digging machine excavated for us a pond to encourage and nurture wild life, at the bottom of the field; two stone bases from long-gone greenhouses made a sunken garden and a third made a second small pond; also an original petite pond near the house was redug, restored and lined – so we now have plenty of water for lilies, birds, insects and other wild life. The walls of an old pig sty and privy now make a seating area – the „ex-loo with a view‟.

We joined the RHS, the HPS and the BCS. Garden visits and local plant sales started the learning curve and second hand reference books, especially RHS publications, were also very important. My husband replanted a redundant orchard and bought a secondhand polytunnel, erected a fruit cage and mapped out a vegetable garden. Village garden clubs are another great source of knowledge, plants and friends – so in our enthusiasm, we joined two!

Meanwhile, we extended the garden out into the field south of the house. Nothing like as neat and formal as in my dreams but in our very fertile, almost solid clay soil

The Clematis 2011

everything grows at an astonishing rate. Being „ on a water-meter‟ we do the minimum of irrigation; we buy in mushroom compost and make our own heaps. We avoid using chemical sprays on any of the garden plants, however we have had to use „Provado‟ on the bougainvilleas in the conservatory (which have mostly been grown from cuttings brought home from holidays in the sun) and to use glyphosate on the couch grass. We love to have as much fragrance as possible in the garden, so, as far as trees go, we grow lilac and the wonderful yellow-flowered Cytisus battandieri, the pineapple broom (from the Atlas Mountains, a rare but highly Fiorentinoalmost ready desirable small tree. The foliage is velvety in texture with a colour ranging between grey and green; it is an attractive foliage tree which delights the senses with the wonderful lemon yellow flowers produced in summer and which have an amazingly rich pineapple scent.) Regular pruning after flowering results in a lovely bushy tree with a strong pineapple perfume. We also have viburnum and philadelphus, among others. For hedging we use Rosa rugosa, into which I am trying to establish various clematis. A pergola constructed from old timbers supports more clematis, grown in huge tubs, together with climbing roses –perfumed of course.

We have noticed that by filling the garden with a wide variety of fruits and flowers the bird population has increased enormously. The only negative point is that since the third year after we moved in, we have never had any cherries from our four huge old cherry trees in the orchard – at twenty feet high, the birds get there first!

We had originally fallen in love with the prolific large-flowered clematis that we had seen on display at the British Clematis Society stands. It was around seven years ago that we started, visiting the RHS Show at Malvern. We came across the BCS exhibit and, right there and then, our eyes were really opened. It was a beautiful spectacle and was being run by friendly, knowledgeable people. Up to that time I had no idea about the huge range and the different groups of clematis. I was instantly struck by Clematis koreana and immediately joined the Society, bought some packets of seeds and at once became well and truly hooked. In subsequent years, various other shows have introduced us to a

The Clematis 2011

whole new world of Clematis and, so far, „Princess Diana‟ wins the prize. „Prince Charles‟ has yet to get established! We joined the Midlands Group of the Society, run by Josie Hulbert and her Committee and found amazing friendliness and generosity. Really good advice and great kindness has meant that our collection has expanded rapidly and we now have about one hundred clematis in three acres of gardens. All are now becoming really well established, following the „three years‟ rule. This year we have had the best and most floriferous displays ever, as the plants settle in and mature. However, I must add that I am still trying to get a C. florida to do well. I have now put my plant into the greenhouse!

My first seedlings are now flourishing and most seem to have survived the hot dry summers and the temperatures of -18°C of last winter. Some, grown from seeds from the BCS seed exchange, are now old enough to flower. Our Clematis rehderiana plants, now five years old, are veritably romping away.

Peter’s beverage They were from one of our very first

packets of seeds, bought the day we joined the society and they have become mingled into a beautiful Clematis tangutica, which creates a frothy mass of stunning yellow bells; we keep the C. tangutica in check firmly, so as not to allow her to swamp the nearby C. rehderiana, which is sheltering a blackbird‟s nest.

We look for plant sources wherever we happen to be, as we go along. The NGS Garden Open sales are often great value and inexpensive plants are sometimes available in the sales events of everyday outlets such as Morrisons. The „4 for £10‟ stall at RHS Malvern has been a good source of plants. This year, as a special treat, we got four more montanas from Thorncroft Nursery (highly recommended!). I am going to try a Clematis cirrhosa again (against common sense, on our site) The financial outlay is relatively small – the main investment is in the time for them to grow on to maturity.

The next phase? Well, there‟s nothing more true than „You never stop learning with gardening‟ and we have had many learning experiences along the way: sadly, my naming system has not been very fool-proof. Plastic labels are dug up by jackdaws and other wild things. I do, though, keep a record book of everything planted, so I know they are all there but sometimes I have to wait until they flower, to make identification easier.

Clematis 2011

‘Ville de Lyon’

I have recently been given a Brother labeller, so that is a job for next winter; cutting back many of our early plants and plantings, which have grown much larger than we ever anticipated, is a task to be undertaken soon; siting –Clematis rehderiana – (my first ever seedlings) were put in the wrong place and proceeded to swamp their neighbours; as touched on previously, I am still trying to grow a Clematis florida var. sieboldiana as well as the one we grew in Farnham; leaving the New Zealand evergreens out too long, as our temperatures plummeted to -18°C (even the mains tap water froze) – but last year we even lost some plants in our double glazed conservatory, including some evergreens growing in tubs; putting a Clematis armandii in the wrong place on too small a wall – and lots more mistakes! But that is the joy of gardening –successes and failures –the fun of trying again and, more importantly, making lots of new friends along the way

The last hard winter has killed olives, a huge Eucalyptus and almost all the hebe from a collection of eight different varieties but the clematis have survived. Our lovely fifteen years old ceanothus is now totally dead but it nevertheless provides an excellent skeletal support for a „Jackmanii‟ and one or two other plants. Despite everything, the display this June is better than ever.

We also have a huge range of poppies, originally grown from seed – Papaver and Eschscholzia. For anyone who takes the RHS magazine The Garden, Midland Farm (a farm very near to us with similar gardens to our own) was featured this month (July 2011).

We open the garden informally for charity at least once a year. We do not have the manpower to bring it up to National Gardens Scheme standards but we are enjoying sharing it with others, so long as they are not too tidy-minded. Give us a ring first!

Well, time to get into the garden and prune some clematis

Have I Bitten Off More Than I Can Chew?

Deborah Hardwick, US

WWinter is always a good time to reflect on where you are going and where you have been. From an impromptu initial interest starting in 2002, and my first disastrous results with about twenty clematis selected at random from descriptions (no photos, though that would not in itself have helped me select better!); somewhere along the garden path… I got hooked. Through trial and error (more error than anything else, I freely admit) I became a collector of Clematis. I remember meeting someone who had eighty clematis, back in my early days, back when I spent more time thumbing through Leeds & Toomey‟s Encyclopaedia (An Illustrated Encyclopedia of Clematis) than actually gardening. And I thought they must be bonkers –speaking of which, I realised soon enough that I must be as well – as my early results and attrition of plants was alarmingly non-productive...my planting methods and choice of plants was a perfect storm of struggles and losses. Amazingly, in retrospect, my motivation did not wane. Failures were accepted and the momentum continued as my love of clematis grew in disproportion to my success rate.

WISLEY

(‘Evipo001’)

By the time my collection had reached a hundred cultivars I was finally clear on groups and pruning styles, I had learned to plant at the proper depth, and was spending as much money on soil amendments as I was on plants. Suddenly, I was making spreadsheets of the collection and noting bloom times. Along the way, I realised I was a „retail plant

Clematis 2011

hunter‟ (think „Dan Hinkley of the retail world‟) [Ed. Daniel Hinkley is an American plantsman, garden writer, horticulturalist and nurseryman best known for establishing Heronswood Nursery in Kingston, Washington; and Windcliff, on the Kitsap Peninsula near Indianola, WA; and for collecting, propagating and naming varieties of plants new to the North American nursery trade] and that my destiny and contribution to the genus MUST be „to collect every clematis I could find and to grow them well‟.

Each phase of this journey down the garden path is filled with memories, as well as significant changes to my work habits and gardening methods. I remember the spring by which I had built my collection to 250 cultivars, and how, suddenly, the days of random walking about (nipping here and weeding there) gave way to structured offensives with loaded cart and ambitious to-do lists.

Organising the spring work is another thing that changed. While I freely admit to having a modicum of assistance in the growing season (from a friend named Carlos) I found myself separating chores and keeping a narrow focus, to boost my productivity so that I could keep up with the growing

collection. A sample of the spring work flow might read: Monday and Tuesday, hard pruning only; Wednesday, nipping and tucking on type 2s; fertilising takes two days if I work most of the day at it, top dressing at the same time and staying focused. And so on. This new approach is just as enjoyable as the old and it enables me to provide better care for the plants rather than just walking about looking for „what needs doing‟. One litmus test I have used along the way for answering the question, „have I bitten off too much?‟ is whether the clematis are labeled, my records are up to date, and the plants are getting

ALABAST (C. ‘Poulala’)

‘Perle d’Azur’

excellent care. So far, I can answer yes to those questions – though some days more confidently than others.

In the summer of 2009, with inspiration from the internet clematis gardening forum Gardenbuddies.com experts, I collected seeds from my clematis plants for the first time. Walking about checking for readiness to harvest the seeds and keeping them organised and sorted is more time consuming than one might imagine, but once I had added this dimension to my garden activities there was no turning back. Before this, I enjoyed looking at seedheads as autumn turned to winter each year, but had never harvested seed. A learning curve of when to harvest and which were viable ensued, with an abundance of seed being sent to clematis friends in other countries. Interestingly, in that first year of collecting I kept none for myself, not yet ready to add germination of seed to my garden journey.

Fear of work is not part of my genetic makeup. Just as „Alionushka‟ wants to face her blooms away from the path in my garden, or „Jackmanii Alba‟ comes into flower when she decides to, my talent for retail plant hunting propels me to find elusive new cultivars, only later dealing with the where and when of planting and growing them. Sourcing clematis cultivars has become one of the pastimes that I love and devote time to. My journey down this garden path is blessed with clematis friends that I have met in person or on the internet and who have enriched my knowledge and inspired me in so many ways. One of the best is one that most readers of this Journal know well. Clematis on the Web is the friend I am speaking about. The site is such an amazing resource. Whether I am checking a pruning group or parentage, or looking up a new cultivar or species, both

my knowledge and the organisation of my collection have benefited greatly from this resource. The frequent act of ripping off a garden glove with my teeth, removing my iPhone from a pocket and using the browser to hop onto COTW, to check a fact or refresh my memory on something I consider urgent, is a true luxury.

As mentioned earlier, Leeds & Toomey‟s Encyclopaedia was an important pre-COTW resource to me and I still find information and enjoyment in the book. Another book has become a good friend during the course of my garden journey. When I read of Wim Snoeijer‟s classification book and ordered it for myself, I

‘Jackmanii Superba’ and ‘Yukikomachi’ really did not know just how important the book would become to my overall learning curve and knowledge base. Understanding the difference between Diversifolia and Integrifolia and then drawing conclusions about group placement on my own, from an objective versus subjective basis, has been empowering.

While certain retail plant sources will always be particular favourites (and I recommend them freely) other „out of the way‟ and „off the radar‟ sources have become important too. With dedicated focus and effort, my collection edged past 400 plants „Collections within the collection‟ added refinement, such as obtaining virtually all of Wim Snoeijer‟s selections; desiring to know more about Kazushige Ozawa‟s Viorna Group selections; or collecting as many of Barry Fretwell‟s clematis that I can lay my hands on.

STILL WATERS (C. ‘Zostiwa’)

‘Blue Light’ & ‘Gillian Blades’ cascade down the steps

By the winter of 2009 gardening had taken on a new dimension in the dormant months; I obtained an import permit, caught up on the preparation of permanent metal markers and updated spreadsheets and records. While, of course, sourcing new plants for spring delivery.

The spring of 2010 brought a new challenge with a massive invasion of small slugs in most of my garden areas. I knew that where clematis are concerned slugs can become a problem, but heavy spring rains exposed hundreds of them each morning. Use of pet friendly slug bait was a guilty necessity, along with at least an hour each morning with weapons in hand. A clematis friend who knowingly advised checking the bottom of each nursery pot added hours to my work, but helped me save many young plants. Bloom tracking was replaced with „slug patrol‟ as I laughingly called it, even when I was crying from the overnight damage and the task itself. As the infestation abated and the season progressed and learning from fellow clematis fans on Gardenbuddies, I was inspired to start thinking about germinating clematis seeds and to try my hand at making crossings.

Late summer 2010 kept me busy. I was more dedicated than ever to collecting seeds from my plants and busy with the August arrival of an import of 150 plants of which are seventy-five „new to my garden‟ varieties that I am trialing for two local nurseries.

My first attempt at a cross last summer was a textbook exercise, for practice only. I decided to use Mary Toomey‟s instructions, taking out my beloved and well worn Encyclopedia yet again. Optimistically, I set up a kit with the supplies needed. As it was late in the season and as this was just a practice attempt, I impulsively decided to use a still unfurled C. × durandii bud, and, looking around for a pollen parent, saw an about-toopen bud on Clematis „Parasol‟. No thought was given to this arranged marriage, they just happened to be the most convenient unopened blooms when I went out to try Mary‟s instructions. Imagine my surprise, weeks later, opening the covering and finding two

My ‘seed dungeon’

ripening ovaries, indicating that I had might have gotten some pollen in the right place. With those seeds a new direction in my clematising would emerge.

Some important learning curves come when least expected. A conflict with a neighbour about a shared fence line meant an unplanned and urgent move for forty plants, with only a few days‟ notice, some from my first purchases that had by now matured into beautiful specimens. With no time to be fearful of the early August timing, the plants were moved to better locations over a two day period. As we dug them up, I immediately sensed that improvement with new, deeper holes and my best amended soil would be a quantum leap for the plants. And sure enough, all responded with vigorous new growth, reaching as high as 5 feet by late September, with most of them reblooming. Following this experience I ambitiously set out to relocate or lift and replant many clematis that I now realised would benefit from enhanced methods and better planting.

Last autumn, as dormancy set in, I unleashed some passion on my first real attempt to grow clematis from seed. With hubby‟s help, (think „enabler‟ here) shelves and lights that I had used many years ago (to grow annuals from seed) were put back in place, and, before Christmas, thanks to clematis friends across the globe and some international purchasing, I soon had more than one hundred types of clematis seed in 4 inch pots of gritty soil and vermiculite, set out to germinate.

I draft this article as January 2011 comes to a close. Some of the seeds are starting to

‘Rouge Cardinal’ ‘Multiblue’

germinate and my thoughts naturally are of the coming spring. I enter spring with the collection standing at more than 550 different cultivars, and several hundred duplicates, bringing the headcount needing care to a substantial number. It is time again to make plans and think about how best to take care of them. Since there is ample well-lit warm space available in the „seed dungeon‟ (as I call it), I am planning by the end of January to bring inside all my young plants that have overwintered outside, to get them into growth early. This will give me more time to pinch them back to promote root growth, and to start some cuttings as well, for protection (in the event of plant loss) of precious and hard to find cultivars. This strategy will mean that fussing with the babies (followed by hardening off as the weather begins warming) will bridge the gap through the bitter end of winter. By the time I can work outside and begin feeding and pruning again I will have accomplished a significant amount of work, as well as given some important plants a head start to the season.

Goals for 2011 include taking earlier steps to prevent insect infestation and pruning type 3s a little later than usual so as to cause a delay in bloom time. Type 2s will get a better clean up this spring than last, an every-other-year strategy that helps beef up the plants as well as delay flowering. This will be the second year that I‟ll have a substantial

number of plants growing out in containers through the spring and summer. While they develop and give early indications of their vigour and readiness for the garden, creating a plan to enlarge some of the beds (so that I can incorporate new cultivars into the gardens) will take some thought and time. Once pruning, feeding and general plant care is underway I will attempt a few more crosses. (Sadly, just today I found the seeds from the C. × durandii and „Parasol‟ cross to be infertile )

Feeling confident that I am organised and committed enough to continue to provide the care that the plants deserve, I now want a different answer to my perennial self question, „have I bitten off too much?‟ I

suppose the answer will simply be „am I still enjoying myself, learning and having some of that wonderful walk about the garden time with coffee cup and camera in hand, marveling at what the last 24 hours has brought, discovering something new to photograph and to take delight in?‟ Perhaps for me the most important aspect of gardening is simply working with clematis enjoying the plants and taking the time to just see what needs doing…and doing it or not.

The most frequent question I am asked by others is „how do you take care of so many clematis‟? I have prepared a chart of the three seasons that I divide the year into, which follows the general flow of work here in my garden, which is called Hardwick Hall, in central Ohio, zone 5b, USA.

winter spring /early summer late summer/fall

Source new clematis as soon as lists or selections are updated from vendors. Wait-list where possible on out of stocks, or call and ask about availability.

Start slug control before seeing first slug!

Make large piles of amended soil in advance, so it is always ready to be used.

Ground - water deeply on a regular schedule, every 3 to 5 days, depending on climate and soil. Multi-task where possible by placing phone calls while watering.

look for bargains on soil amendments, fertilisers, containers & purchase for the spring

make metal markers for all clematis on order, using 3M tape if possible for longevity, noting the pruning group on each marker.

update spreadsheets, plan bed extensions, study up on new varieties that will be arriving in spring. knowing group, breeder, and parentage if possible is fun.

start seeds indoors, pricking and potting up making sure to label securely and update records.

break dormancy early on small container plants, up potting, pinching and making cuttings as desired to get a jump on the season.

Off-season tasks help the year go round!

plan chores with a solo focus….pruning, feeding etc without distraction to maximise time spent

dig holes in advance of planting, (check drainage!) so that when you go out to plant they are ready and waiting.

stock a general cart with nippers, tie up supplies, insect control products, extra markers etc to minimise trips to the shed. don‟t go out without the cart!!

top dress all clematis at least twice a season, using a radius of 12 inches around each. this prevents weeds near the clematis, nourishes and helps moisture control.

relocate or lift, dig and replant some clematis after 7 years. lift and container any struggling plants, growing them out for a few months to a year or more before replanting in the garden.

Keep camera with you in the garden…

The Clematis 2011

prune 3‟s back when blooms wane vs when they are finished for a better second flush, fertilising immediately

Keep eye on seedheads developing and consider protecting precious ones with netting wrapped as you would a lollipop

keep digging holes in advance, even if they will not be planted for some time. back fill with amended soil , and mark the hole.

keep piles of amended soil & compost for top dressing ready for use. when supplies are ready to use, chores are easier and procrastination is reduced.

if you have a helper in your garden, keep them busy digging holes, making amended soil and doing chores that allow you to focus on the clematis themselves.

Take time to simply mess about …

Bibliography

An Illustrated Encyclopedia of Clematis Everett Leeds, Mary K. Toomey. Timber Press 2001 ISBN: 1604692030

Clematis Cultivar Group Wim Snoeijer 2008

Classification with Identifying Key and Diagrams

Clematis throughout theYear – A Talk by Roy Nunn

Given at the BCS East Anglia Group 2011 AGM

Karen Sparrow UK Article incorporates the BCS ‘Clematis throughout the Year’ poster.

Preface by Karen: I first became interested in clematis while working at a local garden centre, five or six years ago. One of their polytunnels contained a wide range of clematis with different flower shapes and colours, and, a surprise to me at the time, some were even fragrant. One C. montana had been trained to grow up the sides of the polytunnel and along the top ridge. This made for a beautiful eye-catching flowering sight. It was quite a revelation to discover that clematis can be in flower at any time of the year and to become aware of the wide range of flower forms and leaf shapes.

I work as a ‘jobbing gardener’ and have found that pruning can be confusing when you are not sure which pruning group a clematis belongs to. If the label has gone, it always helps if the owner of the garden can remember what it is called or when it flowers! Also, I’m sure that at some times they seem to grow faster than I can tie them in! As a fairly new member of the Society I am looking forward to learning a lot more about this fascinating group of plants.

OOn attending the first AGM of the East Anglia Group of the British Clematis Society, held at Scotsdale‟s Garden Centre in Great Shelford, Cambridge, we were treated to Roy Nunn‟s talk (accompanied by many excellent digital images) entitled ClematisthroughouttheYear

Roy informed us that clematis occur on most continents except Antarctica, and in diverse climatic conditions: from tropical Africa to the cold of Siberia and they can be found on fertile soil, on river beds, edge of forests; poor soils, rocky areas, high mountains, scree slopes; on alkaline soils, but equally as many are found on acid soils. He explained which clematis to choose in order to have

‘Angela’s Double’ Image © Roy Nunn flowers during

January

The Cirrhosa Group of clematis comes from the Mediterranean region and flowers in Britain over winter. This group of clematis is a welcome addition to the garden in the colder months

February

The Cirrhosa Group of clematis includes „Wisley Cream‟, „Freckles‟, „Jingle Bells‟, „Ourika Valley‟ amongst others. All can flower from November to February

March April

C. armandii is another clematis that in the right situation, will flower in early spring. Cultivars include „Apple Blossom‟, „Bowl of Beauty‟, „Snowdrift‟ and other selections from the species. A vigorous vine with beautiful flowers en masse

The Atragene Group is well suited to the cold and flowers well in British gardens. These clematis have nodding flowers in a wide colour range. Selections from C. alpina, C. koreana and C. macropetala are commonly available

C.cirrhosavar. balearica

C. ‘Wisley Cream’

C.armandii

C. ‘Frances Rivis’

May June

Clematis in the Montana Group are known for their vigour and can be seen throughout most of Britain growing up large buildings and tall trees. There are many named cultivars to choose from

July

The Integrifolia Group of clematis adds a new dimension to the garden because they are non-climbing and herbaceous. They can be planted as companions to medium or large shrubs

C. „Madame Julia Correvon‟ is in the vast Viticella Group of clematis that can flower from June through to October. Named cultivars are too numerous to list here

August

Large-flowered clematis may have single or double flowers or both, produced from May to August depending on conditions. The range of colours is vast and some even have a contrasting bar

C.montanavar. rubens Image © Roy Nunn

C. ‘Madame Julia Correvon’

C. ‘Alionushka’

C.‘Doctor Ruppel’

The Tangutica Group is quite vigorous and will cover an unsightly garden shed with ease. This Group of clematis has an added bonus of beautiful fluffy seed-heads which are used frequently in flower arrangements

What C. rehderiana flowers lack in size they make up for in numbers, with masses of small pale yellow hanging bells. Mature plants will cover a small tree or large shrub

November December

One of the Cirrhosa Group and possibly the most popular. The flowers have deep red or purple markings and can look stunning on a frosty morning. Flowers from November to February

A favourite with clematis growers although it can cause quite a shock in summer when it goes dormant and looks dead. However, it will spring into life in late autumn, and new leaves are soon followed by flowers

C.‘Golden Tiara’ (KUGOTIA) Image © Roy Nunn

C.rehderiana

C.cirrhosavar. purpurascens‘Freckles’ Image

Roy Nunn ©

C.napaulensis

The Clematis 2011

every month of the year, for example: in January and February there are scented cirrhosas (a favourite for this time of year being C. cirrhosa var. purpurascens „Freckles‟); March: koreanas; April: alpinas; May: montanas; June/July: large-flowering hybrids; (some flowering again in Aug/September). „Group 3‟ clematis such as viticellas are found in bloom from June through to November.

Roy advised that when buying clematis to look out for plants with at least four active stems, in pots no smaller than 2 litres but preferably 4 litres, and to make sure that the roots filled the pot, only (when possible) buying plants in flower (in order to match your intended colour scheme) and to buy from reputable suppliers. Before planting, make sure they are well watered and, when planting in autumn, mix bonemeal with the soil –but if in spring, use blood, fish and bone instead. „Group 2‟ clematis should be planted with their lowest nodes below the soil surface but any others should only be planted such that the top of the rootball is at soil level. Use your hands to firm them in and if planted in the spring, water them well (but don‟t overdo the watering in autumn, and do not water at all in winter as this could promote rotting of the roots). Many books state that a „cool root run‟ is needed but Roy doesn‟t think this is necessary, and sometimes impossible to achieve: he advocates a straightforward good mulch, right up to the base of the plant, to protect from the sun and give a cool and moist root area

Clematis are placed in „Group 1, 2 or 3‟ depending on the type or species and their flowering times. With regard to pruning, he suggested that although „Group 1‟ clematis such as cirrhosas and montanas are

‘Wesselton’ Image © Roy Nunn regarded as the „no pruning group‟ they do need some pruning, to keep them generally tidy: this should be done after they have finished their flowering output. However, plants of the alpina, koreana and macropetala groups should be pruned every year after their main flowering period (usually in May), as they rarely regenerate after pruning into really old wood. „Group 2‟ clematis (which, Roy added, seem to prefer fertile, slightly acidic soils),

The Clematis 2011

should be lightly pruned in late February, removing any dead stems and cutting back to healthy, fat buds. Spread the vines out evenly and tie them in; in established plants it is advisable to cut back a few stems to a couple of feet above ground level, to produce an even covering of flowers. „Group 3‟ plants should be pruned in late February, to about twelve inches above ground level.

As for problems such as mildew and blackspot (and red spider mite, if on plants kept in the greenhouse) he uses an oil-based anti-fungal spray, or, as an insecticide, such as „Vitax 2 in 1‟. It appears from research that „Group 1‟ and „Group 3‟ clematis can carry „clematis wilt‟ fungus without any detrimental effect but „Group 2‟s tend to suffer more. There are two schools of thought in dealing with this problem: firstly, to cut the plant down, treat with fungicide and let it grow again; and secondly, just dig it up and dispose of it, replacing it with a „Group 3‟ clematis! Other possible problems are mice at ground level, caterpillars, snail damage and chlorosis – which can be treated by spraying with Epsom salts, leaving a week and then feeding with an acid loving plant food.

Referring to New Zealand clematis, which are generally not hardy, he recommends removing all the soil and repotting into alpine compost, in a clay pot, putting the whole into a plunge bed. This keeps moisture available; however, he added, in bad weather don‟t water them at all. Also, once flowered, remove all the flowering stems before seeds are set: Roy thinks the New Zealanders may in some cases have a tendency to monocarpism and that such management may increase a plant‟s chances of survival in the longer term

We were treated to a sumptuous digital presentation of a diverse range of clematis –some taken in their countries of origin, including C. albicoma from West Virginia and C. hirsutissima from Arizona; C. mandschurica, a fragrant plant which grows in cold conditions in Estonia and some C. viticella originating from Iran, which are perfectly profuse even on poor soil. As the slide show continued Roy continually augmented it with many remarks and observations on clematis – C. napaulensis, which, although the standard advice is to plant in hot sun, blooms best when it is in shade, flowering from November to February; C. forsteri, which has a lovely scent but can be difficult to grow well; C. montana var. rubens which will grace any wall or structure; BLUE ANGEL (C. 'Błękitny Anioł') a marvellous viticella (by Brother Stefan of Poland) with the most stunning beautiful pale blue flowers and C. „Venosa Violacea‟ – which has shone brightly ever since being raised in 1883 by Lemoine in France – with the most striking white and purple star shaped flowers!

In conclusion he recommended that further information could be obtained from the British Clematis Society and the International Clematis Society websites and from Clematis on the Web.

I found it a very interesting and informative talk in a very pleasant setting.

Web references

All other images © Bernard Allen

British Clematis Society www.britishclematis.org.uk

International Clematis Society www.clematisinternational.com Clematis on the Web www.clematis.hull.ac.uk

Squeezing a Quart of Clematis Into a Pint Plot

Stuart Pereira UK

WWhen I wrote my first article for the Journal I waxed lyrical about the pleasure I got from growing clematis but was moved to confess that I had several plants to which I could not put a name. I have since realised that the more I learn about these beautiful plants, the more enjoyment I get, for knowledge is the key to the enhancement of my pleasure. As a consequence I now treat the subject more seriously, as indeed it richly deserves.

I began by taking a long hard look at my plot. For the first time, I put some serious thought into the siting of my plants: I wanted to ensure they had at least a half decent chance of survival. I measured the back garden. The plot is 50‟ (15m) in length by 33‟ (10m) wide and faces southwest, looking out to a plantation of mixed saplings and arable farmland beyond. Next job was to

thrives in the semi shade. Some 8‟ (2.4m) further on is the very deep shady corner where „Jackmanii Alba‟ met her end, next to where, as I write, a Jenny Wren is gathering insects to feed her brood. Her nest is in the side vents of an old chimney pot, which acts as a container for a miniature rose. Behind this, a honeysuckle clambers through a lilac tree and onto the „roof‟ above the bench in my quiet corner.

Formed by hard pruning and training a Prunus cerasifera „Nigra‟, this bower makes a perfect shady resting place on a hot day. The purple-leaved flowering plum provides an ideal dark backdrop to „Nelly Moser, as she happily climbs up the right side of the bower entrance. She is hemmed in by Fatsia japonica and a Phyllostachys aurea (golden bamboo), whose combined presence stifled both „Jan Paweł II‟ and „Radar Love ‟. It is a really deeply shaded corner overshadowed by a 25‟ (7.6m) pine tree, towering over it from next door. A further 10‟ (3m) or so along the fence from „Nelly Moser‟ a flowering damson tree stretches up to exceed the height of the cherry tree. It plays host to „Jackmanii‟ and also to „Comtesse de Bouchaud‟. „Ville de Lyon‟ grew here unhappily for a few years but only ever produced a handful of blooms, late in the year, before falling victim to the dreaded „wilt‟. The damson also provides support for two climbing roses: the lovely apricot „Schoolgirl‟ and a more showy white rose, whose name escapes me. (Still some learning to do.) Nestling next to the damson is a Pittosporum, sharing host duties with some green chicken wire stapled to the fence. Weaving their way through the foliage, the lovely pale blue double blooms of CRYSTAL FOUNTAIN („Fairy Blue‟) makes a fine splash –this is the plant‟s best year yet, with a dense show of flowers and I am looking forward to photographing the blooms in the near future.

The next two fence panels feature just one climber – a red summer-flowering jasmine. Here, the fence meets the terrace (which raises the ground level by 3‟ (0.9m) and is joined by an 8‟ (2.4m) high brick boundary wall, reaching out 9‟ (2.7m) from the house. This wall supports a pale pink climbing rose which in turn plays host to three further clematis and is assisted by a Wisteria sinensis, growing on the same wall. The first clematis is the velvety red „Rouge Cardinal‟; I have failed to identify the second, so far.

‘Dawn’

‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’

with the deep carmine and blue of „Étoile de Malicorne‟. The short four-year life of this clematis I put down to lack of water in the very dry soil at the base of the tree and adjacent boundary wall, exacerbated by my neglect with the hosepipe. A holly bush, 6‟ (2m) to the right, cut to form part of a mixed hedge, acts as host to „Dawn‟, which

thrives in the semi shade. Some 8‟ (2.4m) further on is the very deep shady corner where „Jackmanii Alba‟ met her end, next to where, as I write, a Jenny Wren is gathering insects to feed her brood. Her nest is in the side vents of an old chimney pot, which acts as a container for a miniature rose. Behind this, a honeysuckle clambers through a lilac tree and onto the „roof‟ above the bench in my quiet corner.

Formed by hard pruning and training a Prunus cerasifera „Nigra‟, this bower makes a perfect shady resting place on a hot day. The purple-leaved flowering plum provides an ideal dark backdrop to „Nelly Moser, as she happily climbs up the right side of the bower entrance. She is hemmed in by Fatsia japonica and a Phyllostachys aurea (golden bamboo), whose combined presence stifled both „Jan Paweł II‟ and „Radar Love ‟. It is a really deeply shaded corner overshadowed by a 25‟ (7.6m) pine tree, towering over it from next door. A further 10‟ (3m) or so along the fence from „Nelly Moser‟ a flowering damson tree stretches up to exceed the height of the cherry tree. It plays host to „Jackmanii‟ and also to „Comtesse de Bouchaud‟. „Ville de Lyon‟ grew here unhappily for a few years but only ever produced a handful of blooms, late in the year, before falling victim to the dreaded „wilt‟. The damson also provides support for two climbing roses: the lovely apricot „Schoolgirl‟ and a more showy white rose, whose name escapes me. (Still some learning to do.) Nestling next to the damson is a Pittosporum, sharing host duties with some green chicken wire stapled to the fence. Weaving their way through the foliage, the lovely pale blue double blooms of CRYSTAL FOUNTAIN („Fairy Blue‟) makes a fine splash –this is the plant‟s best year yet, with a dense show of flowers and I am looking forward to photographing the blooms in the near future.

The next two fence panels feature just one climber – a red summer-flowering jasmine. Here, the fence meets the terrace (which raises the ground level by 3‟ (0.9m) and is joined by an 8‟ (2.4m) high brick boundary wall, reaching out 9‟ (2.7m) from the house. This wall supports a pale pink climbing rose which in turn plays host to three further clematis and is assisted by a Wisteria sinensis, growing on the same wall. The first clematis is the velvety red „Rouge Cardinal‟; I have failed to identify the second, so far.

‘Dawn’

‘Comtesse de Bouchaud’

Finally, tucked into the corner, a new addition planted in April – Clematis armandii, which, I am happy to report, is doing very well.

Traversing the side and front of the conservatory, to the right hand corner, we find C. alpina „Pamela Jackman‟; she climbs from the bed, a yard below our feet, to clothe a low trellis rising barely 2‟ (0.6m) above the terrace. Her silken seed heads interlace with the tendrils of „Ernest Markham‟, as he prepares to relieve his host of flowering duties. Sitting quietly in an 18” (0.4m) pot near the base of the aforementioned clematis, the yellow flowered GOLDEN TIARA® („Kugotia‟) climbs a bamboo cane towards the sun. Reaching the spot where the conservatory meets the wall of the house, left of the kitchen, we see a young „Rhapsody‟ (Fretwell) establishing a foothold on Cotoneaster horizontalis. This will take it to the second of my wisteria and the extended branches of

CRYSTAL FOUNTAIN ‘Mrs Cholmondeley’

‘Voluceau’ with HARLOW CARR

‘Bill MacKenzie’

„Compassion‟, a fragrant climbing rose, rising from a small opening in the flagstoned terrace to the right of the kitchen window and spreading across the rear of the house. From this same opening, a vigorous free flowering (unidentified) clematis scrambles through the rose and the wisteria to a height of 15‟ (4.5m), providing a reliable explosion of deep purple each year. It also sends stems (with a little help from me) across netting stretched above the frame of the side entrance gate and up into the branches of my fine 12‟ cotoneaster tree.

To the left of the gate sits a pot containing Clematis viorna, pending a move next season to a permanent position in the ground, possibly at the front. Beneath the periphery of this tree‟s canopy, next to the gate, stands a large black plastic bin, modified with some draining holes - home to „Marie Boisselot‟, my latest acquisition. Sadly she fell at the first fence, simply failing to grow after planting. I left the plant undisturbed and can now report that after several weeks three healthy new shoots have emerged. At 10”

‘Dr Ruppel’

‘Hagley Hybrid’

BLUE RAIN

‘Miss Bateman’

‘Elsa Späth’ (25cm) growth these are now climbing towards the trellis beside the gate. I look forward to her white flowers intertwining with the pink blooms of „Compassion‟ and the purple of my existing clematis, next year. Just 7‟ (2.1m) to the right, a much healthier plant, „Mrs Cholmondeley‟, winds her way through the climbing hydrangea covering my side of next door‟s garage wall. Her lilac flowers pepper the greenery, aided and abetted by „Alionushka‟, overlaid by a pink blanket which is C. montana var. rubens. The latter also covers a trellis and arbour which extends out from the wall towards an island bed next to the main pond. This island bed provides a home for „Voluceau‟, which displays its vibrant red blooms on a black steel obelisk. An arm‟s

length away, the bright purple flowers of „The President‟ cloak the old galvanized steel washing-line post, fighting for space with the darker, smaller buds of HARLOW CARR („Evipo004‟) which spreads randomly across the ground cover. Crossing back to the boundary fence we find the penultimate specimen, the first to bloom in my garden each spring, „Markham‟s Pink‟, a perfect shade to stand out from the second of my purple leaved flowering plums. It spreads its coral pink flower laden stems, snaking them towards the bottom corner of my little plot. It is here that my second C. montana var. rubens twines through the lilac and along the fence beyond the Cherry tree, where we began our little stroll.

Passing now through the gate, under the climbing „Compassion‟ and the purple clematis and following them along the side wall of the semi, we walk towards the front garden. A short step beyond the furthest reaches of these climbers we encounter tendrils from the first of the front garden clematis. The yellow bells of „Bill Mackenzie‟ stretch over 11‟ (3.3m) towards the house, from its base in the flower bed. It weaves in and out through clematis netting which extends the 4‟ (1.2m) high fence up to 6‟ (1.8m) and supports another two of the eight clematis resident in the plot, as well as a red flowered jasmine. These two are planted within a couple of feet of each other. The first, as we make our way along the fence behind the camellia, is „Warszawska Nike‟, a recent addition which has yet to flower, closely followed by „Dr. Ruppel‟. Beyond these,

The Clematis 2011

mingling happily with „Bill MacKenzie‟ as he stretches 5‟ (1.5m) along the fence towards the road is the jasmine.

Reaching the end of the fence we turn 90° left and traverse the 11‟ (3.3m) of the drive, which occupies two thirds of the plot – a necessary evil in this age of the „infernal combustion engine‟. Here we encounter two more Ceanothus, growing against the low stone front wall. There is a large one which, at 6‟ (1.8m) high and 9‟ (2.7m) wide supports two clematis, while a smaller Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. repens spreads its cloak beneath. „Hagley Hybrid‟ and „The Vagabond‟ [Ed. Bred by the renowned Ken Pyne] are the plants in question. The former was a good choice, the pale blooms showing well against the dark glossy leaves of the host, unlike the latter, which is somewhat lost against the backdrop. We live and learn.

Next to the fence separating me from my uphill neighbour grows the delightful (but unruly!) „Sinee Dozhd‟ BLUE RAIN recently moved from the back garden to make room for the construction of the conservatory. Clambering over a low, globe-shaped bright green conifer this clematis‟ small bell-shaped blooms are an enhancement of which I am moderately pleased. I am much less pleased with the site I chose for „Piilu‟ (LITTLE DUCKLING) which was close to the winter flowering jasmine that covers the wall beneath the bay window at the front of the house. It proved to be too close and sadly the duckling was smothered and died.

Following the jasmine across the bay we come to a small bed which is home to „Miss

Bateman‟, whose white flowers make a wonderful display, covering the wall between the bay window and the front door in early summer. Last but not least, rising from a large terracotta pot on the opposite side of the front door, the striking lilac blooms of „Elsa Späth‟ make a great job of hiding an ugly downpipe.

So that is it, an example of how to squeeze a lot of clematis into a little space. The burning question is: can I squeeze any more in and if so which, where and how many?

All suggestions welcome.

All images © Stuart Pereira

ANY METAL WORKERS OUT THERE?

Everett Leeds UK

S Since becoming involved with clematis umpty-dumpty years ago I have become increasingly aware that most of the taller cultivars are not suitable for your ‘average’ obelisk. The reason for this is that your ‘average’ obelisk narrows to a point at the top whereas the thickest growth of clematis is generally at the top, especially so if you have followed the dictate of the hallowed ones that you should pinch out the growing shoots when young (that is the plant, not the grower!) in order to create more vines.

As I write this (May 15th) the wind outside is gusting and the new growth on some of my plants is waving about having (even after being pinched out) reached well beyond the apex of their supports.

So, is there some willing individual out there with an arc welding kit who can knock together a support made out of small diameter bar (tube rots too quickly) with linking struts up which the clem can climb

Traditional garden obelisk with narrow top

Traditional obelisks are fine until the clematis reaches the top, but then where to go? or be retained (if a non-climbing type)? To be of use they must be at least 1.5 to 2.5m tall above the ground and for the tallest plants, perhaps a joint half way, to facilitate carriage in a car, otherwise the under-gardener will have to carry it all the way home. Personally, I like the rustic, rusty look of bare metal and I believe this finish gives the petioles better purchase too. Powder coating in plastic will doubtless put up the price of the finished article. Perhaps something along the lines of my illustrations? Then of course we have to get to the bottom line - cost! Clematarians are notorious for wanting a bargain……

When we lived at the Old Cottage at Buckland I made this type of support but from wood. For the posts I used three pieces of two x two (5cm x 5cm) and set them into the ground with meta-post spikes all leaning outwards. I then joined them up with tile battening slats at reasonable intervals. In the long run probably cheaper than metal but not so long lasting – and of course the under gardener has to make them…..and by the way, I’m not putting copyright on these designs!

Clematis Support Structures

Glenis Dyer UK

RReading Everett‟s article on the shape of the supports typically on offer at garden centres for our favourite plants, I found myself muttering, “Yes, INDEED …” Why on earth do manufacturers produce all these narrow, pyramidal shapes when the natural growth form not only for clematis but also for the great majority of plants is VASE-SHAPED, ie narrow at the base and widening, often considerably, as the plant grows upwards? Also, the typical lattice-type supports, made from thick lath, are not the easiest thing for our upwardly mobile friends to scale; the wooden cross-pieces need to be reasonably strong if they are to last more than a couple of years, particularly if we are growing “Group 3s” on this type of support. When clearing away the previous year‟s growth, one pulls fairly hard on the severed vines, so flimsy supports are useless. About 5 or 6 years ago we sourced some supports which were ideal - very cheap (Chinese) manufacture, vase-shaped, and joined with quite narrow-gauge wire so that the clems could easily twine their tendrils around the wire. We bought all that the garden centre, (Wyatt‟s, just off the A3400 near Long Compton), had in stock and these were used by many of the Midlands group members. Sadly, however, Wyatt‟s were unable to obtain a further supply. We then showed one to the friend who makes the metalwork in

our garden, asking if he would be able to manufacture something similar, but he said it would be uneconomic for him to produce these, as the narrow-gauge wire (only supplied in vast quantities) would have to be bought in specially, leading to a production cost to him of about £17 each (this was 3 or 4 years ago).

In June 2011, when we were in Belgium with the IClS, I noticed supports in one garden which consisted of just 3 or 4 long pieces of steel, either clamped, welded or otherwise fastened together about a third of the way up their length, and angled to form an Xshape (the whole thing looked rather like the framework of a tepee, but with the rods joined much lower down). The tops of the structures were therefore much wider than the base, and possibly had string or fine wire at intervals joining the rods higher up. The metal rods were not smoothly cylindrical, but with a spiral groove which embellished them considerably. These would be very easy for anyone to copy.

Between ten and fifteen years ago, we bought a section of builders‟ reinforcing mesh in the largest diameter available, and measuring about 4m x 2.5m. This was lashed between 2 large apple trees and served splendidly to support ten or so clematis – until one of the apple trees died! Our metal-working friend was then asked to provide supports for the mesh (in the form of “ladders” at each end and on either side of the mesh, and this works splendidly; the second apple tree is already “on borrowed time”, so the whole support had to be free-standing. In fact, it has proved quite a talking-point, as well as doing “exactly what it says on the tin”.

CLEMATIS and HOSTS

Roy Nunn UK

reat store has been placed on growing clematis against various structures: walls, trellis, panels, posts, obelisks and pergolas. However, if they are not used carefully, such structures can look artificial and may not show off a clematis in its best light. This can be negated completely by growing plants into a living host.

Growing clematis with various types of roses can give a very effective display, by matching the colour of the rose to the clematis, when they are flowering together; interest can also be lent to non-repeating roses that flower early, by combining with a Viticella-type clematis, thereby much extending the season of interest. One plant that springs to mind is the beautiful early flowering Rosa banksiae „Lutea‟ (thornless yellow banksia rose) which flowers profusely early on, then spends most of the summer in leaf; any attempt to combine a clematis with this rose when it is in flower is likely to detract

A place for climbers to climb: specimen of Garryaelliptica‘James Roof’, wrought iron gates, wires on the horizontal, vertical and diagonal, fences, posts and solid structures

The Clematis 2011

from the overall impact of this beautiful plant. Instead, grow a Viticella-type clematis through it and don‟t be afraid to plant more than one clematis in this situation. In fact, this year, my Rosa banksiae „Lutea‟ hosts seven clematis and a low growing Lonicera. The clematis, if pruned in late February, will not have put on enough growth to interfere with the rose‟ s own flowering, but will give a great display of themselves through most of the rest of the summer.

In our garden we try to emulate nature by growing clematis through a host shrub or tree, hiding any bare lower stems by planting herbaceous perennials at the base. One thing that has been frequently observed is that clematis do not readily cling onto standard wooden trellis structures, as the leaf tendrils will not bind themselves around anything that is above 10mm (0.4”) in diameter. It is therefore a good idea to provide additional support in the form of wire netting, sheep wire or individual wires, fixed either horizontally, vertically or in combination to form a grid.

It is very important to match the vigour and size of the clematis to the host and some more vigorous clematis are better grown on their own, for example C armandii and C montana. These can also look very effective growing through an old apple or pear tree or even a mature conifer. Many trees and shrubs can add structure and offer winter interest in the garden and these can be enhanced by the addition of summer flowering clematis. Some examples in our garden are;

A variegated Ceanothus hosting Clematis PETIT FAUCON („Evisix‟); various clipped and trained hollies hosting a number of Viticella species and hybrids; Cotinus „Grace‟ (smoke

‘Juuli’ in flower with Philadelphus

The Clematis 2011

bush) hosting „Pagoda‟; a combination of „Madame Julia Correvon‟ and „Étoile Violette‟; a fastigiate Yew (eg Taxus baccata ‘Fastigiata’) hosting „Purpurea Plena Elegans‟ and „Venosa Violacea‟; a Forsythia hosting „Aotearoa‟; Viburnum farreri with „Minuet‟; Amelanchier lamarckii with I AM® LADY Q, with INSPIRATION to hide its bare stems; a compact Syringa meyeri hosting „Forever‟; C. napaulensis has a Macleaya × kewensis growing in front of it to hide its leafless stems during summer; Syringa pubescens with „Gravetye Beauty‟; a Philadelphus hosting „Angela‟s Double‟ and clematis „Pauline‟ – „Angela‟ s Double‟ is often in flower at the same time as the Philadelphus; another double flowered Philadelphus growing with „Juuli‟ – this combination usually flowers together, however the clematis continues to flower long after its host has stopped; a winter flowering shrubby honeysuckle, Lonicera × purpusii „Winter Beauty‟ hosting „Princess Diana‟.

Combinations of clematis and other plants I try to avoid

I tend to grow most of the Clematis cirrhosa and Clematis napaulensis species and cultivars on their own. They grow so rapidly and densely in our garden that they tend to swamp all but the most sturdy of hosts; also they tend to impair my enthusiastic pruning regime, carried out after flowering has finished. I only grow a couple of montanas – which are used as a fence barrier and as greenhouse shading – preferring to grow these the length of a line of fencing where I can get at them to keep them in bounds. My macropetalas are generally grown on their own; this ensures that annual pruning, carried out immediately after flowering, is always easy. Of course, most of the alpine-type clematis, which need space and light, are best grown away from competition; some need winter protection, which may be anything from a sheet of glass to an open cloche placed over

‘Semu’ with Post Office pea

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the crown of the plant. Some in the Orientalis Group are too vigorous and densely foliated to be grown with normal sized hosts – these can however take on small trees and certain other garden plants of strong constitution and significant dimension.

A little advice on planting clematis to grow with a host

Whenever possible I would plant a host shrub or tree at the same time as the clematis, that way both plants get an even chance to establish a good root system; however, you may find that the clematis will initially grow far too vigorously and may come to swamp the host, in which case a temporary structure should be erected to support the clematis until the host is more established. Very often, though, we have an established tree or shrub which we deem could be enhanced by the introduction of a clematis or two. This is best achieved by planting the clematis as near as possible to the ultimate drip line of the host plant, that is, outside the rain shadow of its host. In the case of some deciduous trees the clematis is planted several feet from the host‟s trunk; we can then either provide a temporary support from clematis to tree, by means of ropes, canes etc, or the plant can be laid on its side and grown up the bole of the host. In order to give the clematis the best chance to get its root established, the planting hole should be enriched in the normal way with organic matter and slow release fertilizer such as blood fish and bone (in spring ) or bonemeal (in autumn). It is important to discourage the host plant roots from growing into the rich feast (that you have just provided for the clematis) by lining the planting hole on the side facing the shrub or tree with a suitable barrier. This

‘Madame Julia Correvon’ , ‘Pagoda’ and ‘Étoile Violette’ with perennial pea and Cotinus‘Grace’

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should extend at least three quarters the way around the hole and to the depth of the planting hole. The barrier can be an old piece of plastic compost bag, thick grade polythene, roofing felt etc. This will help the clematis get established before the host roots invade the area. Also very important is that the clematis is kept well watered during the growing season, especially during the first two or three years after its planting Beyond that time a Viticella-type clematis should be able to look after itself but watering may again become essential during periods of summer drought.

Another important consideration is, what point of the compass best suits the clematis in relation to its host? A rainy spot might well be an advantage for some clematis but for others the rain shadow may be preferable – bear this in mind when siting. I am particularly thinking about some species and vigorous small-flowered clematis that may benefit from the drier conditions. An example in my garden is Clematis connata, which was planted in the rain shadow of a Garrya elliptica „James Roof‟ some thirteen years prior: this plant is thriving in the driest of conditions and easily reaches to 15‟ (4.5m) in height, becoming covered in flowers through September and into October. It is notable that clones of this plant, given damper conditions and a southwest aspect in our very well drained, very alkaline soil, have failed to survive. Employ thoughtful consideration in the selection of both the host plant and the clematis, to exploit the best characteristics of both plants; this will extend the interest throughout the seasons and can also mask some less desirable traits.

I AM® LADY Q has in just eighteen months reached the top of our Amelanchierlamarckii

I AM® LADY Q – you may say she is very similar to C „Minuet‟, or that the plant has a strange name – but it has flowers twice as large as „Minuet‟ and it flowers for a much longer period. Certainly one of the best clematis to come out of Holland in recent years.

‘Juuli’ in flower – flowering continues long after the Philadelphushas ceased.

All images © Roy Nunn

My Clematis Combinations

Marie-France Holt Canada

IIgrow mostly „pruning-group 3‟ clematis here at the farm. In the beginning I used to spend ages pairing my plants in anticipation of a certain look. No more. I have come to feel that no matter how they are actually arranged, they usually look quite lovely together. These days I simply try to find space for any new ones. They seem to grow and twine about on their own, finding their own best combinations. Every year there are changes in the garden, sometimes due to weather conditions, other times due to critters in the garden –whether voles, moles, chipmunks or ant colonies. By and large most clematis eventually return to bring delight.

As I look through my photos from 2010 I see that there are two sorts of pairing: either a clematis with a herbaceous plant or shrub or else two or more clematis planted near each other.

Depending on our winters, clematis only begin here in May or June. In 2010, it was June!

In the first sort of combination I will show you six pairings.

← GAZELLE (‘EVIPO014’) and CHINOOK (‘EVIPO013’) are a pair bought on a whim (at the grocery store!) which make a fine display with the pink rose „Prairie Joy‟. The long loved Clematis × durandii grows through a white peony and in fact blooms much longer than the peony itself! „Juuli‟ is a favourite of mine and she grows with a scattering of foxgloves nearby. „Warsaw Nike‟ was a gift sent to me, and I like it as a companion to a yellow phlomis. „Crocus Rose‟ makes friends here with BLUE ANGEL (C. 'Błękitny Anioł'). They seem to know all by themselves where they look best!

Clematis× durandiigrows through a white peony ‘Juuli’ and foxgloves

‘Warsaw Nike’ and phlomis ‘Crocus Rose’ - BLUE ANGEL (C. 'Błękitny Anioł')

‘Marmori’ with Corydalislutea ‘Perrin's Pride’ with C.viticella‘Hågelby Pink’

‘Prince Charles’ and ‘Polish Spirit’ ‘Honora’ and ‘Hendryetta’

C.×diversifolia‘Blue Boy’ - ‘Blue Belle’ ‘Buckland Beauty’ - C.viticella‘Hågelby Pink’

BLUE RAIN, ‘Royal Velours’ and ‘Tango’ ‘Fairydust’ , C.viticella‘Flore Pleno’ & GALORE

‘Mikelite’ with ‘Semu’ Little „Marmori‟ surprised me by pairing up with Corydalis lutea. When it comes to pairing clematis with each other, these were some favourites from 2010: ‘Perrin's Pride‟ wove itself together with C. viticella „Hågelby Pink‟; my old standby combination, „Prince Charles‟ and „Polish Spirit‟; „Honora‟ and „Hendryetta‟ looked fine, even on a rainy day; C. × diversifolia „Blue Boy‟ and „Blue Belle‟ make a fine pair; „Buckland Beauty‟ and C. viticella „Hågelby Pink‟ somehow found each other nicely together, too. A planned deliberate combination is BLUE RAIN, „Royal Velours‟ and „Tango‟; another mindful pairing was this: „Fairydust‟, C. viticella „Flore Pleno‟ (Mary Rose) and GALORE. The pairing of „Mikelite‟ with „Semu‟ was accidental, but a very pleasant surprise! An all-time favourite though has been ‘Huldine‟ in concert with C. viticella „Flore Pleno‟ (Mary Rose) (above).

Each year there is some new combination that catches my eye. That is not to say that a clematis standing alone is not also magnificent! As I write this, in May, clematis are only beginning to break the surface of the ground. This is a time of great anticipation!

The Malvern Spring Gardening Show May 2011

Charne Griffiths UK

TThere is a freshness about the Malvern Spring Gardening show which is probably down to both the time of year when it occurs and the setting. The Three Counties Showground is set just outside Malvern, with a magnificent view of the Malvern Hills to one side. It feels like a country show and there is plenty of space for the various areas, such as the floral marquee, designer gardens, sundries sellers, plant societies and food and drink, to name only a few.

The BCS stand is usually under cover, in one of the halls, with the other National Plant Societies. Therefore we are at least sheltered from the elements in terms of rain. However, as there are doors on either side of the hall – which is really a glorified shed –it can be windy and cool. This year, as in some previous years, we were well positioned on a cross path between sections. This means that the public have to pass the stand going up, down or across the hall and the adjacent area. The four days are usually busy, beginning early, at 9, and continuing until 6 in the evening.

It is interesting to see how the clematis in flower differ from year to year, depending upon the weather in the winter months and the spring months immediately before the show. Last year there were many montanas, alpinasand macropetalas , while this year a number of large flowered clematis were in bloom. However, the stalls selling plants all look fresh with plenty of newly mature offerings and for some of us it is an opportunity to see the new plants that are to be promoted for the year.

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Above: BCS Educational stand

Left: Spring Flowering Clematis display

Clematis bowl

C.montanavar. wilsonii cut flower display

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Anyone who thinks they might like to join the volunteers on the stand would be very welcome next year. Everyone has at least a couple of hours to see the show, and it is good to meet other members of the BCS and the visitors who are interested in clematis. You do not need to be an expert to volunteer, as the questions are mostly similar: „How do I prune my clematis?‟ „Can you help me to identify my clematis?‟ Listening to the experienced volunteers soon gives confidence to those less practiced.

Malvern Spring Gardening Show 2012 is to be held 10-13 May.

Malvern is a town in Worcestershire, with a population of 28,749 and includes the historical settlement and commercial centre of Great Malvern on the steep eastern flank of the Malvern Hills. Many of the major suburbs and settlements that comprise the town are separated by large tracts of open common land and fields and, together with smaller civil parishes adjoining the town council boundaries and the hills, the built up area is often referred to collectively as The Malverns

Archaeological evidence suggests that Bronze Age people had settled in the area around 1000 BC, although it is not known whether these settlements were permanent or temporary. The town itself was founded in the 11th century when Benedictine monks established a priory at the foot of the highest peak of Malvern Hills. Based on its spring waters, during the 19th century Malvern developed rapidly from a village to a sprawling conurbation owing to its popularity as a hydrotherapy spa. Immediately following the decline of spa tourism towards the end of the 19th century, the town's focus shifted to education, with the establishment of several private boarding schools in former hotels and large villas. Malvern, Worcestershire is twinned with Malvern, Victoria, Australia.

Correspondence – Longevity of Clematis; Harsh Winters

Various contributors

[Ed.] This year we had an intriguing enquiry from Elspeth Napier to Val Le May Neville-Parry which prompted some interesting comments on clematis longevity in general, from a number of very experienced clematis growers. During the course of these exchanges some views about the recent harsh winters were also expressed. I am sure you will enjoy browsing the responses.

From: Elspeth Napier: 18 June 2011 To: Val Le May Neville-Parry Subject: Age of Clematis montana

I am a member of Plant Heritage and am trying to find out how long a Clematis montana might live. I have come across one which is still flowering well and is known to have been in full flower on Mafeking day, i.e. May 19th, 1900, so it is over 110 years old. Is this a record? Here is a photograph taken on Mafeking Day – a day of celebration after news of the relief of the town besieged in the Boer War was received in London. The front of the house is covered by a long dark river of Clematis montana. The plant is still there and flourishing although not with as much vigour as a century ago. A relative of the previous owner gave the photograph to the present owners when they bought the house in 1957. She had been born in the house and lived there as a child, so remembered the clematis. The plant is growing on a south facing wall in Warwickshire clay in a narrow border but with other plants around its feet. Its „trunk‟ is almost shrivelled away but the plant is still

The Clematis 2011

growing and flowering healthily. It must have been planted some years before Mafeking Day to have been so vigorous then. Can it be 120 years old? I would be grateful for your comments.

Responses re. C.montana:

From Val: Hello Elspeth – I remember you asking me to write a review of John Howell‟s book on the Montanas. I am hoping to take cuttings next week from a plant that was in situ well over 100 years ago at Florence Nightingale‟s old family home, Embley Park. So, although I don‟t have a definitive answer for you, I do know of at least one plant – a C. m. var. grandiflora –that is probably the same age as yours Do you know which variety it is? Given that seed of the species was first brought to this country in 1805 I think it likely that there may be several specimens planted in the mid to late 19th century which may still survive. I am copying in some of the BCS and IClS venerables in case they have more specific information. I have asked to be copied in on any replies.

Image © Jenny Dawes

(Val continues) Dear Brian, I certainly have a C. m. var. rubens alive and kicking, planted in 1986. True, it has layered itself several times in the same area but that is the same stem so, in my mind, counts as the same plant. Also the „Ludlow montana‟ is over 50 years old. Perhaps we could get Jenny Dawes to write a paragraph or two. She sent me a sensational picture of that plant this year (see above).

From Jenny: A short history of a long lived clematis: In the late 1950s Mrs Chapman planted the trees which give our garden its structure today. A Clematis montana planted at this time has grown into a tree in its own right. The variety is unknown to us but Val tried to identify it with help from other members of the BCS. Using a holly tree in the cemetery garden next door for support, it stands 36‟ high and 12‟ wide at the base. The lower branches form an intricate sculpture of twisted trunks, while the top growth is a cascade of pale pink scented blooms in the spring and throughout the summer small clusters of flowers continue to bloom, as an added bonus. Ludlow Council proposed

The ‘Ludlow montana’ in spring 2011

cutting down their holly tree and, by default, our clematis. We hope each year for a reprieve and, so far, so good. Long may it continue to light up our spring garden.

From Mike Brown: Yesterday, I spent an interesting afternoon at Hergest Croft and took a few shots of the C. montana var. wilsonii that supposedly has a very long history. I am fairly sure that the current plant is only a layer of the original because the stem thickness, although, say, 5” in diameter, is no way thick enough to be as old as some claim. In fact, my present feeling is that the plant we gazed on in 1996 (on a BCS visit of that year) had more and much thicker, and some ground covering, stems (which this plant does not have). I am sure in my own mind that the current plant is the genuine article and I have a copy of a document where Raymond Evison agreed with that. The plant is in full bloom, still. The 230 mile return journey was not a waste of time because I Collection. I will write to Laurence Banks to try and get an idea if this plant has been „tidied up‟ in the last fourteen years but as he is a very busy man, I do not expect a quick reply – I will await a response from Laurence and report back in due course. Mike continues: Hi Brian, I have now exhausted my research into old montanas, so am passing some info on to you. Elspeth has given me some measurements from the supposedly exceedingly old plant: the thickest stem, where it leaves the ground, is 57mm wide. Liz Welch, a BCS member from not far away, set a montana just over 30 years ago and that plant has a stem that is 58mm at the same point, whilst the one at Hergest Croft is only 28mm at the same point. It appears to me that stem thickness is no guide to the actual age of the plant, neither is the number of stems (2 to 5) in the 3 different plants. Laurence Banks (owner of Hergest Croft), has been kind enough to contact me recently and he confirms that neither he, nor his head gardener, (who has been there over 30 years) can recall any removal, or dying, of stems; however, when they examined it a few days ago they did find at least one old stem/stump. Laurence, (although he cannot prove it) is still fairly certain that his plant IS the original from 1908/10. I can understand what he is getting at – stems of many plants die back, usually after new young and vigorous stems have been going a season or two (the old stem can no longer do its allotted task for one reason or another, so withers away). If this does happen then who can say that the root ball is anything other than the original plant? However, if the plant layers itself, the layer will eventually have its own separate roots. Now, if the original stems fail for any reason and the original rootball does not send up new stems, the plant that is left, although identical to the original, is actually NOT the original. I can envisage a situation where an old plant could continually re-invigorate itself by spasmodically sending up new stems, without ever layering itself. In that way, a plant could perhaps make 200/300 years! Here we are, talking about extremely long lived clematis, when the majority of clematis being sold in our garden centres are very lucky if they are still alive the next year!

From: B Collingwood: So, Mike, do you think it might possibly actually be the original plant, or is that not determinable?

Mike Brown: The safe thing is to accept that it is not determinable, either way, whether the existing C. montana var. wilsonii is the original; however, I think it is and Laurence is of the same opinion.

Other responses

From Charlie Pridham, holder of the National Collection of Clematis viticella: Not a lot of help from here – all the plants I planted 28 years ago are still going strong! But that is hardly much of a record. Until a few years ago I used to do some pruning for a blind lady who had planted all her clematis between the wars and they were all still ok. I used to layer stems down for her on the ones with really thick old-looking trunks and many others had done this for themselves, so it‟s hard to say how aged the actual stem structures were. I shall be interested to see the other responses.

From James Earl, Spokane, Washington, USA: Good to hear from you as always. I am spending much time in the garden and greenhouse these days. I have a surprising array of clematis seedlings… as you probably can imagine. Anyway, enough about the young clematis, now about the old. I have a division of a clematis that my friend (who is 62) and I rescued last autumn from his family homestead, near Newman Lake, Washington State. That clematis was planted by his mother in the 1960s. It has yet to flower for me, so I am hesitant to even guess what variety it may be. The root ball was so large we could hardly pick the beast up! I planted a piece in my garden, along with some of his mother‟s peony divisions. So I am guessing about 45 years, and I am sure clematis probably live longer, if cared for. What other reports have you received?

From Harry Caddick in Cheshire: The first clematis I ever sold as a clematis grower was to my Aunty Jean. It was a Nelly Moser and this was 33 years ago. She still has it growing and flowering well, under her kitchen window. Being a very tidy lady she cuts it down quite low, in the winter, as she doesn't like all the brown leaves. Ok – she loses the early spring flowers but she has a magnificent display later in the year. This plant has never ever had clematis wilt – maybe something to do with the pruning but that could be open for debate.

From Mike Miller in Ohio: My dad planted a large-flowered „patens group‟ clematis at our home in the mid 1970's, which is still alive today (US zone 5, clay soil).

From Dan Long of Brushwood Nursery, Athens, Georgia: I have seen the original Clematis „Starfish‟ on Martha's Vineyard (an island off the coast of Massachusetts) and the label gave a date of 1958. I recall that it was in 2007 or 2008, making it about 50 years old.

From Finn Røsholm in Oslo: Hello Brian! Clematis of old age? Regarding old clematis, we do not have complete records but always remember „Ville de Lyon‟ as being one of the oldest ones. We today still have two „Ville de Lyon‟ here, which are from 1985, when we started with clematis. We also have alpinas, tanguticas, rectas, hirsutissimas and „Dawn‟ of about the same age. I remember, from my parents‟ home outside Oslo, the „Ville de Lyon‟ we used to have when I was very young. I recall that my mother would show and talk to me about it, even when I was still an infant!

OTHER points:

From Roy and Angela Nunn: Something I have observed over the past two years is the decline in the number of Clematis montana seen in gardens in Cambridgeshire. Most

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people I have spoken to have said that their particular plant or plants have not survived the recent winters. It would be interesting to know, as well as how long some plants have survived, just how short a time some plants, considered hardy by the trade, are living, under garden conditions. I personally have noticed a number of so-called hardy species and cultivars that fail to thrive under cold greenhouse conditions and stand no chance of survival at all, if planted in the garden.

From Mike Brown: Roy raises a very valid point; montanas are failing badly in Oxfordshire, too. Those that do not succumb to the winters make only weak growth and then fade away completely in spring. Some years ago, the RHS identified Montana Slime Flux and this was then blamed for the loss of many montanas; however there was in fact no sign of the disease on the dead plants I was shown. The current lack of montana hardiness is not related to slime flux at all: the plants are just lacking vigour and cannot stand proper winters. So, in addition to long lived clematis, we ought to be gathering information on any groups of clematis that are no longer as hardy as they used to be. A few more winters like the last two and we will all probably be able to write articles on short lived clematis!

From Val: Roy – I am interested in your comments and confirm that a cousin of mine, living in Attleborough, has recently emailed me to say that many of her clematis have died over the last couple of years. Strangely, although it has been very much colder than usual in the New Forest, I am amazed to find that not only have all my Clematis montana plants and hundreds of other clematis, come safely through the winter, some reasonably mature ones (planted 2001-4) have sent out between one and at least a dozen new shoots from below ground. This is the first time this has happened. In addition, I have had two very mature brugmansias – a sanguinea and a yellow – left in a cold greenhouse with temperatures well below -10°C throughout most of December 2010, suddenly send up strong new shoots from beneath the soil. (I sawed through the inch thick stems at the end of March and they are now outside and growing strongly.) My montana collection flowered the best ever, this spring. I didn‟t lose one plant. My oldest, a C. m. var. rubens, was planted by me in 1986. It is a massive plant and still doing really well. My conclusion is that all the species and cultivars in my collection are hardy down to prolonged periods of -10°C, exposed to very strong south west and south east (but not north) winds in this area of the country. I look forward to reading other comments. From Roy Nunn: Hi Val, -10°C was quite warm for us last winter, -18°C being our lowest temperature recorded in the garden – but the real killer was the -10°C of late May, which was preceded two days before by daytime temperatures of 21°C. Most plum crops have been lost and we had hostas, that were about to flower, instantly turned to „look like boiled cabbage‟, overnight. At the same time, all the leaves and flowers on my two remaining montanas turned to mush. Our Cotinus „Grace‟ (smoke bush) was so badly affected I was considering digging it up – good job I didn‟t, it is now fine but I don‟t expect any flowers this year. My camellias are still not fully recovered. The strange thing is that C. napaulensis looked healthy throughout all this cold and flowered as well as ever. My C. „Advent Bells‟ was a picture this year, with flowers covered in light snow. Also, two NZ hybrids, „Nunns Gift‟ and „Green Velvet‟, growing in the scree bed, remained in good condition and flowered well. Two of my remaining four „group 2‟ clematis are no

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longer with us and only one of those produced a few late spring flowers. My most sad loss was of my wild-collected C. rehderiana, which used to have masses of large flowers: the good news, though, is that at least four clematis and two roses can be planted in its place! I remember losing two C. „Multi Blue‟ plants in successive winters (not particularly cold ones) some years ago and recall asking the late Vince Denny about this. He thought for a moment, then said „Aye! You do know they are annuals don‟t you?‟ I am beginning to think that in some cases he was correct, namely C. urophylla „Winter Beauty‟, C. repens, most forms of C. florida and some C. patens group cultivars, to name but a few. Thanks to C. viticella and its hybrids our garden is looking good at the moment, clematiswise, though many other plants have struggled with the drought: this started in February and didn‟t end until early June, with the worst month being April, when a scant 1mm was recorded on the rain gauge. Gardening would be less fun if everything was easy!

From Mary Toomey: Hello every one. Montanas – species and cultivars – in my south Dublin garden and elsewhere in my neighbourhood, came through with flying colours –no problem whatsoever with the past two exceptionally severely cold winters. I was amazed that my 5 year old 'Tsunami Child' (a montana) growing in a very large container, was magnificent during late spring and early summer, and so was its 30 year old mother plant, growing in a garden nearby. I must add that my garden does enjoy a maritime climate. In fact none of my clematis suffered or succumbed to the exceedingly low freezing temperatures. However, I noticed that my Clematis texensis failed to develop an abundance of buds and, unlike previous years, very few new shoots emerged from below the soil. Happy clematising!

In Search Of „The Full Set‟

Richard Hodson UK

A As far back as I can remember I was a collector: starting as a schoolboy with postage stamps; then on to train numbers, then Dinky toys, old Victorian bottles and finally arriving at my current obsession, Viticella Group clematis. I now hold the National Collection of Clematis viticella at Hesketh Bank in Lancashire.

I have been very interested in the Viticella Group for many years and my records show that in 1997 I was the proud owner of five plants of the group, „Alba Luxurians‟ , „Madame Julia Correvon‟ , „Purpurea Plena Elegans‟ , „Abundance‟ and „Venosa Violacea‟ , all of which are still here in the garden, though „Abundance‟ has never quite lived up to its name for me, I don't know why. These five were probably purchased at the wonderful Preston nursery of Vince and Sylvia Denny, or maybe on a day trip to Barkers near Ulverston, both nurseries sadly now closed.

My wife Irene has always been a huge fan of, and still grows plenty of the „oldfashioned‟ roses (why „old-fashioned‟; if they are old, why not just say „old roses‟?), many of which flower their hearts out in May and June but then fade to insignificance, so the Viticella Group were, and still are, ideal for brightening the roses which have finished flowering – their flowering season is June to September. If there is an overlap of rose and viticella, better still, as the clematis colours of pink, white, purple, lilac and blue are perfect with the pinks and whites of the roses. They are also ideal companions for Phlox paniculata, monardas, lythrums etc, which are a must in the true English summer border. I searched for and found more of the Viticellas; each one has been planted in the garden, here at my home on the reclaimed marshland at Hesketh Bank. As my collection grew I became more interested in the older cultivars, raised many years ago by true devoted breeders who used selected parents to raise new cultivars – not just chance seedlings, as many of today‟s „new introductions‟ are. Thanks are due to them all for their skill, enthusiasm and, most importantly, their record keeping. I am a great fan of Barry Fretwell, who had a nursery in Devon; John Treasure, who was at Burford House,

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Tenbury Wells; the Dennys at Preston and Frank Watkinson in Yorkshire. Hopefully, someone will soon start collections of their introductions, before they are lost forever. Since I (inevitably) became entangled with the world-wide web research has been made much easier and I learned of an almost extinct cultivar by John Treasure, „Burford Princess‟ A bit of detective work and a lot of luck led me to the ex-Head Gardener of Burford House who said he believed that the original plant raised by John Treasure was still in a large pot around the back of the old nursery! He said if I would go down there on a Sunday morning with £15.00, I could have the plant – start the car! Of course I was not sure quite what I had bought as the plant had no flowers but I immediately planted it in the garden – and sure enough it was indeed „Burford Princess‟ – purplish background with a thin white stripe. I have now several young plants propagated from cuttings and have passed some on to Charlie Pridham who also holds a National Viticella Collection, in Cornwall. „Burford Princess‟ will therefore soon be widely available.

My own National Collection now has almost 100 different cultivars and species, as well as many seedlings of my own which I have raised over the years. One of the best is a plant which I have namd „Richard's Picotee‟ – a good white, with maroon-ish pink edges, lots of flowers in typical viticella style; also I have recently registered a new pink form as „Jean Caldwell‟ (who was Chairman of our North West Group of Plant Heritage until recently).

I have from time to time given considerable thought to the only two known double viticellas, „Purpurea Plena Elegans‟ and C. viticella „Flore Pleno‟ (syn. „Mary Rose‟). „Purpurea Plena Elegans‟ was raised by Francisque Morel some time before 1899 – the Register (The International Clematis Resister and Checklist 2002, and Supplements) says: „probably a chance seedling from C. viticella‟. Of C. viticella „Flore Pleno‟, the Register says: „probably cultivated since 16th century‟. Why no more since then? Well, both are sterile, so there is no seed to experiment with. However, in a recent development, an internet acquaintance of mine (who has a clematis nursery in New Zealand) told me a few months ago that „Purpurea Plena Elegans‟ actually sets seed down under; further, he had sown some seed and raised a new pink double viticella seedling. Obviously I wanted to acquire a plant, or seed, or both and I sent him several batches of clematis seed as a „sweetener‟. Then, phew! Last June a parcel arrived from New Zealand containing a beautiful cutting, wrapped in wet tissue and newspaper. I promptly potted it up and it is now growing merrily away. The plant is called „Fluffy Duck‟ and was bred by antipodean nurseryman Peer Sorensen of the Yaku Nursery and it is certainly unusual.

I have obtained several of the Fretwell cultivars: „Elf‟ , „Abigail‟ and „Melodie‟, as well as several other viticellas, including „Hågelby Blue‟, „Hågelby Pink‟ and „Hågelby White‟ from Manfred Westphal in Germany. These are on grafted Clematis vitalba rootstock. I was rather apprehensive at first about planting these grafted plants in the garden, since I was not sure what to expect – and shuddering at the possibility of Clematis vitalbas sprouting in the herbaceous borders! But they are no different than any of the others so far. A cultivar from Westphal which I find especially pleasing is „Ingrid Biedenkopf‟. It grows here through a large shrub rose, „Rosy Cushion‟. „Ingrid‟ is a lovely blue. Also from Westphal is „Rosea‟: I believe this is one that they themselves have raised at the Nursery: super-soft pink with good viticella shaped flowers. She is much admired here,

‘Richard’s Picotee’ ‘Brocade’

‘Burford Princess’ Seedling of ‘Joan Baker’

‘Ingrid Biedenkopf’ ‘Jean Caldwell’

growing through an obelisk, in tandem with the lovely pale blue „Hanna‟, in the middle of a bed of Phlox paniculata and monardas.

After the two years‟ settling-in period, which seems inevitable with clematis, my „Brocade‟ has suddenly become a firm favourite: lots of brick-red flowers, growing through hybrid musk rose, „Moonlight‟

Other favourites are „John Treasure‟ , „Joan Baker‟ , „Carol Leeds‟ and a super „Joan Baker‟ seedling, from Keith Treadaway, which is proving just as difficult to propagate as the mother, „Joan Baker‟ This is grown with clematis „Odoriba‟ and they make a good, contrasting duo.

So, what does the future hold, Viticella-wise? Who knows? Possibly a few more new doubles and maybe a yellow will creep in at some time?

Let me know if you spot one!

‘Fluffy Duck’ Image courtesy © Peer Sorenson

Sisters „Arabella‟ „Miranda‟ and „Amelia‟

Marcus Dancer UK

MMany of you will be familiar with the world famous clematis „Arabella‟. It is a hardy herbaceous clematis with non clinging leaves, growing to about 8ft (2.5m) and is happy in both sunny and shady positions. „Arabella‟ can be used as ground cover, or be used to scramble over low-growing shrubs and other herbaceous plants. Alternatively, if trained up through an obelisk or wigwam, it can become a focal plant. From June onwards „Arabella‟ then rewards the gardener with a truly spectacular succession of lovely mauve/blue flowers which are 2-3" (50-75mm) in diameter. The more stems the plant produces, the better and longer the flowering display – indeed, flowering can continue until late autumn. Pruning the plant hard each year in mid February or March encourages lots of new shoots to arise from below soil level

This trouble-free clematis has no problems with mildew or clematis wilt and will grow on many different soil types; it also makes an excellent patio plant. Pot it into a large container – from a 2 litre pot, move into a vessel up to about 8" [200mm] in diameter and as much deep, with good drainage holes at the base. For medium, use John Innes No. 3 compost and incorporate some well rotted manure or garden compost.

Clematis „Miranda‟ and „Amelia‟ share the same attributes as „Arabella‟ but are less well known. They are just as non-stop free flowering and trouble-free with similar growth habits, meaning that they can be grown and used in exactly the same ways as „Arabella‟. Clematis „Miranda‟ has larger flowers, 3-4" (75-100mm) wide. The sepals are a rich

velvety dark purple with red anthers at the centre of the flower. Sister „Amelia‟, also has flowers of 3-4" (75-100mm) diameter but in this case the colour is a pretty lavenderpink, with a slightly deeper pink bar and striking cream or creamy-yellow anthers.

All three sisters exhibit the same habit of profuse and continuous flowering from around June to the end of the season; they can be planted in mixed groups to give a wonderful showy ground or shrub cover with flowers in varying hues.

Raised by the noted clematis breeder Barry Fretwell and selected from the same cross, they are first class garden plants and well worth growing, just for their flowering prowess alone.

Images © Marcus Dancer 2011

Clematis patens (Okayama)

Mariko Nakanishi Japan

IIClematis 2011

went to one of the natural habitats of C. patens of Okayama Prefecture on May 15th 2011 with some of the members of the Kansai Clematis Association (located in the south central part of the main island of Japan). The members actively grow Clematis and work on quality improvements. They organize study tours of clematis natural habitats in various locations in Japan, once a year. This year, we went to a natural habitat of C. patens in Tsuyama City, in the northern part of Okayama Prefecture, between Hyogo and Tottori Prefectures, Honshu Island.

Members of the Kansai Clematis Association. Mariko is seated, orange scarf. This cultivated C.patensbloomed about a week late this year. I was wondering if we would be in time to see the flowers – they were in full bloom when we arrived.

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C. patens in Japan includes C. patens Gifu, which has white petals and red-brown stamens; and C.patens Kochi whose petals are either pink, white and light purple on the upper surface, with red lines on the lower The C.patens in Okayama is commonly called „Blue C. patens’. The flowers of C. patens Gifu are large, white and very graceful; those of C. patens Kochi are slightly smaller. However, the colour of the flowers of C. patens Kochi is very vivid and brilliant, without any „improvements‟ added by human hands. The flowers we saw this time of C. patens Okayama were of medium size, 12-14cm in diameter, a fresh cool colour, wild and beautiful. There were some sepals that were twisted. The flowers, borne in multiples, reminded me of the large-flowered hybrid C. „Prince Charles‟ .

C.patensOkayama

The habitat was along the slope of a small hillock, 10m wide, next to a farmer‟s house; bamboo grass covered the area – and there we saw the flowers, dotted here and there. The surface of the ground did not seem to be wet, but being at the foot of a mountain, there was probably an undercurrent of water. The poor soil may be one reason for the smaller sized flowers of C. patens Okayama. There was one particular area, close to a farming property, where the C. patens Okayama had been transplanted

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in number and these plants were in abundant bloom – they looked wonderful. We took commemorative pictures, posing in front of them. At another habitat, there were others, this time with pinkish coloured flowers which reminded one of Clematis 'Hagley Hybrid'. It was interesting to discover that within the same local area there could be such subtle but marked variation in shape, size and colour of the flowers.

My observations about the natural habitat of Clematispatens

We often find natural C. patens growing at the border zones or areas between mountain foothills and arable flat land; here, the bamboo carpets the land and Japanese bush warblers sing. We never find the bush warblers in developed areas. In Japan these rural mountain villages, surrounded by rich nature, are called „Satoyama‟. This is countryside where people and nature co-exist, with mutual respect, honouring the natural harmony. Satoyama people take care of their land, by hand, leaving nature as it is except to prevent the land being overtaken by wilderness. In this particular peaceful mountain village, the flowers bloom for one week or so, and, once they are over, the vines linger on, to be eventually eaten away by insects.

Satoyama people are used to this scenery and pay no special attention to these flowers. Sometimes they cut the clematis vines as they cut back weeds or any other wild growth. However, this routine husbandry allows just the right amount of sunlight to filter through, and this in turn permits the C. patens Okayama to bloom so beautifully and intensely. We must seek to protect this natural balance that we so deeply cherish.

I have heard that there is a development project being planned around the area that is close to the natural habitat of the C. patens Okayama we visited. What will happen is not known with any certainty, nor the timing – it may be next year, or ten years from now.

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Due to the recent great earthquake, development projects have been shelved or delayed in every area. Recovery efforts should be the main priority at this time but I hope that C.patens Okyama will be left to remain as beautiful in the future as it is in the present.

Clematis montana var. grandiflora

Valerie Le May Neville-Parry UK ImagesDiannaJazwinski

C

C. montana var. grandiflora is a wonderful montana. I have four plants of that name in very different positions in my south facing garden which is situated at the top of a steep hill with the prevailing south westerlies shooting up from the valley below and the bitter south easterlies whipping up and across the open land to the east.

John Howells, in his book, Clematis The Montanas, p.68, states that var. grandiflora was „Collected by one of Nathaniel Wallich‟s collectors at Mount Pundua, Sillet Province, India in June 1829.‟ He goes on to say that „Wallich gave it to the firm of Veitch of Exeter and that the plant first flowered in their nursery in 1844.‟

I am a gardener, not a botanist, and am writing about some glorious plants that grace four very different positions in my garden – which houses the only current National Collection of the Montana Group. (I have over two hundred plants of this captivating group, representing fifty eight named varieties and cultivars and many seedlings found in the garden over the last eight years.) There is one var. grandiflora, 20040019, (i.e., the nineteenth variety obtained in 2004) to the east of a thick laurel hedge. The hedge is pruned to about 4m (12ft) each summer. Plant 20040019 is, therefore, protected from the worst frosts and fierce south westerly winds. Another specimen, 20040033, drapes itself elegantly along the north boughs of an enormous apple tree about half way down the garden. A third, 20060015, covers a well established hazel tree near the bottom of the garden but is partially sheltered from the prevailing winds by a huge holly tree further down the hill to the south west. All three were planted east of their host tree, but have varying protection from the cold and wind as well as differing amounts of light available to help get them established and bring out their delicate perfume. The fourth var. grandiflora, 20020002, is planted in a 1m (3ft) cube bottomless box, which my husband and I found in my late mother-in-law‟s garden shed. We used this because the tangled mass of tree roots at the site made it impossible to dig a large enough hole without compromising the lives of the surrounding trees. This is situated to the west of a dead flowering cherry and is fully exposed to the prevailing south west and bitter south east winds that howl up from the valley below. I believe its roots will have found their way

Clematismontanavar. grandiflora into the ground by now, nine years after planting. All four plants are partnered with a different pink flowering variety in order of description above, × vedrariensis „Highdown‟, „Vera‟, C. montana „Lilacina‟ and „Elizabeth‟. This adds to the length of display and explosion of colour in the garden during late April and May. All four of my var. grandiflora plants are very beautiful. But they are not identical. Two, 20040033 and 20060015, both received labelled „Sericea Spooneri‟, have a delicate

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but definite light fragrance whilst the other two have none that I can detect (despite being in warmer positions in the garden). The two with light fragrance are both multistemmed, very vigorous and established quickly, displaying a wonderful show of flowers the first spring after planting. They were donated to the collection by Mike Brown. The other two, both received labelled „Grandiflora‟, came from different highly reputable specialist clematis nurseries but took more than three years to reach maturity. They are also less vigorous. Perhaps they came as younger plants? I cannot say. (Certainly I have noticed that some varieties are recognisably more mature when purchased or donated to the collection.) Neither has a detectable fragrance. However, all four plants now give wonderful displays of flowers each year, and all are clearly recognisable as var. grandiflora.

So what about the flowers? Well, they are very beautiful! They are the purest white and glisten and shine like stars once they open, slightly later than the pink varieties in my collection.

Montana varieties open over quite a long period of about a month, depending on the temperature. The single pink varieties flower first – and most are perfumed, really lifting the spirits - in mid to late spring. Next come the single Clematismontanavar. grandifloraand ‘Elizabeth’ whites, followed by the semi and double pink then, finally, the semi and double white varieties. At least two months of continuous colour and fragrance. What more could you ask for?

Back to the flowers. They open out almost flat and face outwards, almost shouting at you to look at them. At 10cm (4in) diameter they are amongst the largest flowers in the collection, the honours being shared with two scented single pink varieties, C. × vedrariensis „Hidcote‟ and C. „Mayleen‟. Howells (op. cit.) describes the flower as „Four,

The

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sometimes five, broad obovate tepals that do not overlap; creamy bud; white flower; yellow anthers; greeny-white filaments; pistil – green and prominent; grouped in clusters of 4-6. My plant has flowers with slight but definite scent. Flower up to 8cm (3¼ in) across. Roy Lancaster (Travels in China, 1989) noted plants with flowers up to 12cm (4½ in) across at Huadianba, China. May have tinge of red on back of tepals.‟ With my varieties being 10cm (4in) diameter they fit the bill. But what this description doesn‟t mention is the way that the tepals glisten in the sunlight. Just magic!

As for hardiness, accession number 20020002 had no flowers in 2009. They were caught by a late frost that year, but had good growth and display the following year. Dozens of new stems have emerged from the base during the current freezing winter 2010-11. They have been able to withstand temperatures down to -12°C, coupled with gale force winds and torrential rain in exposed positions, north, south, east or west. I think we could describe them as hardy.

In 2010, a century after Florence Nightingale died, I was asked to identify a massive ancient Montana on a huge south facing bay window at Embley Park, the Nightingale family home and estate. The plant had been cut back very severely in autumn 2009 to clear the ground floor windows and allow light back in! However, by late April 2010 it was displaying the largest Montana flowers I have seen. Clearly var. grandiflora and its arm-thickness gnarled stems confirming that it could possibly be over a hundred years old. (Pictures drawn in Florence‟s lifetime indicate it was already in situ.) Could it have been from seed collected by E H Wilson at Huent Omei, China, June 1904 or Western Szechuan, China, in July 1908? These were said to have very large flowers (Howells, op.cit.). I shall be back to measure up and take more cuttings early this summer (I already have one rooted cutting growing in my conservatory), when there should be an even better display with all the new shoots mature. Many of the specimen trees on the huge estate (now a school) are Champion trees of Great Britain and Ireland. Clearly a previous owner must have had a passion for collecting and growing exciting plants at least a century ago.

Writing this in February 2011, I am unable to compare the leaves of my four specimens. I can‟t believe I haven‟t already done this, but have pencilled a reminder to myself to study these carefully once they unfurl next month. There are already big buds in many leaf axils so it won‟t be long. Perhaps I will be able to add pictures and measurements to this posting?

With grateful thanks to my proof readers, Brian Collingwood, Vicki Matthews & Dr Mary Toomey, without whom I would not have been able to submit a botanically sound script. Layout B. Collingwood.

Clematis ladakhiana – Revisited

Brian Collingwood UK

IIknow C. ladakhiana to some extent. I‟ve grown two batches from seed, totaling about twenty plants (BCS and IClS seed exchanges), selected one strong seedling for my garden, given all the others away, enjoyed the plant and flowers for seven or eight years… and then lost it. One spring it just failed to return. I am sorry about this because the flowers were very beautiful, not to mention the delightful glaucous foliage. I wish now that I had kept two or three more of my original plants! I really enjoyed seeing C. ladakhiana come back into growth each year and producing those beautiful, special flowers.

But never mind, because I have just purchased a packet of seeds at the BCS AGM today. I will sow them tomorrow (late March) and I am fairly certain I will have good seedlings in time for Tatton (Tatton Park is the venue for the RHS Flower Show in this area, July 20th-24th) and if not this year, flowers next year for sure. At the meeting today I did actually spot a couple of plants proper of C. ladakhiana for sale (in 2 litre pots). I

was terribly tempted to snap one up. But, you know what? I‟d prefer to raise some seedlings. Why? Because you get to see the juvenile stages of the plant too, and then enjoy watching them gradually progress toward maturity (just like your own children). You don‟t lose much time either, growing from seed, because the plant is so quick to develop. You will certainly have flowering plants as early as the season immediately after

The Clematis 2011

germination, and, if they germinate early in the year, they may well flower in the current season.

In C. ladakhiana (and all the other plants that I‟ve been lucky enough to have grown from this group) the juvenile stages are brief in duration, yet exceptionally fascinating. Not the place, here, to go into the several distinct phases in the gradual development of the seedlings from germination onward (nevertheless, worthy of your endeavours for that reason alone, for studying and observing the tiny plants post germination) but once through the transition from alternate to opposite leaves (a quite amazing phenomenon in itself) the young seedlings are soon ready to be pruned. At this stage they look innocently fragile but 100 million years of evolution teaches you a thing or two about how best to react to setbacks. If stopped early, seedlings pause for a while, take a deep breath and then rapidly double in stockiness both above and below ground, all in the following couple of weeks. It is almost as if they were waiting for it. The immediate effect of pruning is a more than doubling of the foliage surface area available for photosynthesis, and an overall

toughening-up in stature. Buds in the axils below the cut stem are quickly mobilised and, soon, extension growth resumes. Once past the very early stages, growth accelerates and before too long the new vines are elongating quickly, pairs of leaves unfurling in sequence below the advancing tips.

Pruning of these growing vines stimulates further rapid bulking-up and the plants will want to be moved up to a 1 litre pot before long. As for medium, a general compost blended with peat 50/50 (with some fine gravel incorporated) is entirely fine and adequately nutritious and the plants won‟t need liquid feeding at all, if you re-pot promptly. You‟ll know exactly when to re-pot because the roots will soon penetrate the drainage holes at the base of the container and grab your attention. The root mass then expands quickly to occupy the extra space and the plant revels in the steady stream of moisture and nutrients. Moist only, please note, never too wet. It won‟t be long before you can move them to 2 litre pots and the plants begin to take on a more robust and

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more mature look and soon become eager to flower. They quickly leave the seedling stages far behind and The Lady of Ladakh will often flower even in the very first season, and certainly much more prolifically from the next season onward. A word about the foliage at this stage. When you see a young plant coming on, your mind naturally begins to anticipate the promise of the flowers, but for the time being the plant has only the foliage to offer. However, in the case of C. ladakhiana a pleasant surprise awaits – the foliage is a delight to the eye – typical

Meclatis-type leaves with finely cut leaflets, sometimes lobed and toothed and distinctively lanceolate. They are beautifully glaucous and most appealing indeed, immediately recognisable on account of their characteristic drawn-out figure.

An 'orientalis' (Meclatis Group) plant. How fortunate we are that the evolutionary ancestors of this line of clematis were able to adapt to, and colonise successfully and abundantly, so many varied habitats, spreading themselves around the continents – and to evolve on, into so many lovely forms! What a treasure it will soon become, when the DNA sequence characters for this entire sub-family are finally mapped fully, enabling the family tree hierarchy to be resolved and understood at last.

Clematis ladakhiana is a beautiful species of the Meclatis complex, the flowers of which, as with many in the group, are variable in colouration and number, depending on the characteristics of the particular specimen you have. Once established, it‟s a reasonably strong grower, but not rampant like some of the others in the group, producing 3-4m of vines in a season (in my UK location). It likes a nice warm

sunny position. An „Indian summer‟ is ideal. It is a „group three‟ plant which means you can remove most or all of the old vines in late autumn or early spring, when you tidy up, and if cut back in this way the flowers are borne from midsummer on the current season‟s vines. After pruning it will come back from the ground and also from any remaining old stumps of vines. If you neglect pruning for a couple of years it will still be lovely but will re-shoot and also flower from the old vines too, becoming more voluminous. It likes a single good mulch each year around the base and will make full use of a host plant to climb through, or a garden structure offering suitable support. The entrancing flowers (from midsummer in my location) are the typical 'orientalis-type' nodding lanterns usually with a base colour of yellowish-green or pale yellow, but the sepals are overlaid with an abundance of speckles and blotches of gold or purply/reddy brown, giving it an altogether unique charm – if you get a good specimen the appearance is completely captivating. You will always be very glad to have C. ladakhiana in your garden!

Site it with care as it does not want its feet in the wet and cold for too long: the fine fibrous roots don't like that at all – reasonable drainage and some shelter around the base will be to great advantage. Once established, it is not shy to produce new vines from the ground and is reasonably hardy in the UK, although a very hard winter can damage or possibly even kill it. As alluded to above, you can easily take cuttings – from ripening new growth in spring (internodal) and they will root quickly and soon become young plants – C. ladakhiana is easy to replicate. The seedheads are similar to the others of the group. Cocooned within a mass of fluffy grey tails, the nucleus is a mass of densely packed seeds and by means of the feathery tails the wind aids dispersal. Germination is straightforward –about 30-90 days after sowing, sometimes even sooner. The seedlings don't need any special treatment or conditions and don‟t suffer from any particular pests. Culture is straightforward and easy – a seedling will take about a month to fully establish, about three months to become a good young plant, and about a year to become a very strong plant.

Images: Ian Lang © Clematis on the Web

Clematiscrispa from Alphonse Lavallée LesClématitesàgrandesfleurs(1883)

“Pray Sir, Let Me Have A Box Or Two Of Seed …”

Fran Palmeri USA

TThe January-March 1996 Journal of Garden History came to light one day while I was cleaning bookshelves. I pored over Joel Fry‟s article Bartram’s Garden 1783

Catalogue looking for Clematis and found William Bartram‟s beautiful drawing of C. crispa. The catalogue offered Clematis crispa, „caerulea‟ (synonym of C. patens), C. integrifolia and C. vitalba. I wondered how Clematis crispa, the leather flower that I see in parks and along roadsides, got into the catalogue and ended up in English gardens.

The 18th and 19th centuries were times of special excitement in the botanical world as news of plant discoveries in the American colonies spread through England and Europe. C. crispa, according to William Aiton‟s Hortus Kewensis was introduced into cultivation in 1726 by Phillip Miller, Curator of Chelsea Garden and author of The Gardener’s Dictionary.

In the wild

John Bartram (1699-1777) cultivated it in the garden he established at Kingsessing, outside Philadelphia. Spurred on by his passion for plants, the Quaker farmer collected specimens from Canada to Florida. At times, he was accompanied by his son Billy who made drawings of the plants and animals they found. (William would become renowned for Bartram’s Travels, about his own 4-year journey through the South during the 1770‟s).

The work was arduous. The difficulties of traveling for weeks on horseback exposed to the vagaries of the weather and hostile inhabitants are unimaginable to us. Seed had to be collected in season and preserved against the weather. Productive sites he‟d identified on previous trips had sometimes been cleared or destroyed.

Fellow Quaker Peter Collinson (1694-1768), a London draper and avid gardener, shared John Bartram‟s interest in plants. In 1733, a mutual friend, Samuel Chew, introduced them by letter and although they never met in person, they became lifelong friends and correspondents (their letters are included in The Correspondence of John Bartram

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1734-1777 edited by Edmund and Dorothy Smith Berkeley). Collinson‟s garden at Peckham became known as (sic) „the most compleat Garden of American plants that is in Great Britain‟. Lord Peter and other gardening friends took an interest and as the years passed Bartram filled orders for dozens of subscribers.

Remnants of those grand gardens still exist. In 1748, Charles Hamilton received his first box of seeds via Collinson. He had established a garden at Painshill (Park) where today the John Bartram Plant Heritage Collection can be seen. Quaker physician John Fothergill, who claimed he learned everything he knew from Peter Collinson, created a garden in Upton said to be equal to Kew Gardens. So renowned was it that tickets were distributed to allow people to visit, on certain days, what is now West Ham Park. There, parts of the 18th century garden still survive today.

Back then, to get a letter, let alone plants and seeds across the Atlantic was challenging. Collinson once complained that „People come at all seasons and ask “Pray Sir, let me have a box or two of seed”, never thinking they must come

near 4000 miles.‟ Storms, pilferage, seizures by custom agents and wars all conspired against safe arrival. The Wardian case hadn‟t been invented yet. Plants were carefully dug with a root ball and earth, wrapped in moss and packed in a wooden box, best stowed under the captain‟s bed. „It is very discouraging to have ye roots thrown out of ye earth by ye boxes being tumbled about‟, Collinson wrote. Shipments, even whole vessels, went missing. More than once it was noted that a ship captain „hasn‟t been heard from and is given up for lost...‟

Despite this the Garden prospered. Nurserymen such as James Gordon of the

Thistle and Crown, who introduced C. virginiana and C. ochroleuca, as noted in Hortus Kewensis, and John Williamson bought five and ten guinea boxes of seed regularly. In addition to cash payments which helped Bartram pay taxes and fund his travel, he was compensated in books, plants, cloth, writing paper, and drawing vellum for Billy. It seemed all of England was to be planted in American trees and shrubs. The Duke of Richmond wanted „Ever Greens as Pines, Firrs, Cedars, Holley, Arbor Vita‟. According to the Berkeleys, John Bartram was responsible for at least half the new American species being sent to Europe. There was also great interest in herbaceous plants. Clematis is mentioned occasionally. In a letter to Collinson in May 1743 Bartram, referring to John Parkinson (author of Theatricum Botanicum herbal) writes that „his other clematis that bears triangular pods I

Clematiscrispain the wild

Clematiscrispain the wild sent thee several years ago‟. Listing plants he‟s interested in, during March 1750, Collinson asks „What Sorts of Clematis grows with you?‟

Joel Fry, Curator of Historic Bartram‟s Garden, who kindly sent me an email citing multiple sources and information for this article, wrote „several letters from Collinson and Bartram mention a clematis dug up this year in a Carolina swamp‟ with „flowers like martigons‟ [Clematis crispa?]. Bartram made his first trip to North and South Carolina in the spring of 1760, visiting the Cape Fear River in North Carolina and Charleston, South Carolina. He seems to have dug up more than one example of this clematis as both he and Collinson in London had plants successfully flowering in 1760 and 1761.‟

Though he was not formally educated, Bartram‟s correspondents read like a „Who‟s Who‟: Carl Linneaus who was perfecting his taxonomy of plants, Oxford professor Jacob Johann Dillenius, John F. Gronovius, Swedish botanist Daniel Solander, Alexander Garden, artist Mark Catesby, Philip Miller, Benjamin Franklin and Sir Hans Sloane (whose collections became the basis of the British Museum), among many others.

I like to think of Franklin, longtime family friend of the Bartrams at the Garden with son Billy hanging onto every word and proud to show off his artistry. Eventually with Collinson and Franklin‟s aid John Bartram became the King‟s botanist.

←FranPalmeri, www.franpalmeri.com aQuaker,grewupin Philadelphiaandvisited Bartram’sGardenasa child.

The other day my friend Laurel Schiller, co-owner of Florida

Native Plants Nursery, handed me a pot of C. crispa. After hearing about it from me, she‟d grown it from seed – so now I have the beautiful leather flower in MY garden and every time I look at it I will remember those gardeners of long ago, who delighted in this lovely vine.

L-R: Fran’s friend and mentor, John Beckner, Fran Palmeri, Denise MacDonald's brother-inlaw Brian Messent and Denise’s sister Patricia, in Summer 2011 when Denise met Fran in Florida

All images © F. Palmeri, except Bartram & Collinson: courtesy Wicki Images

IIn mid March 2011 I stopped by the lot near the railroad tracks not expecting to find anything. Was I surprised. I knew the grass near the road had been mowed recently and trees along that section had been chopped down by the road crew working on 301. What I didn‟t know was that further in from under the high dead grasses C. baldwinii was already springing up among spent blooms of elephant‟s foot and thistle. It was like finding the Mona Lisa in a rubbish bin. The ambiance hadn‟t changed. As noisy and polluted as ever, trucks roared by and the ubiquitous jet screamed overhead. But the baldwinii had survived. When I downloaded the photos onto the Mac I discovered a new array of colours – pink and white flowers lined with orange – and shapes even more flippant and fanciful. As always the pollinators were present though barely visible.

A tiny spider nestled under a petal reminded me that there is life in every nook and cranny of this beautiful planet.

[Ed. I must report that John Beckner sadly passed away in August 2011. He was a top orchid expert and judge, a former curator at Marie Selby Botanical Gardens in Sarasota, Florida. He had over 100 scientific and popular publications on various interests and taught at universities and colleges in Florida.]

← Florida Scrub Jay courtesy Wicki Images

Denise Macdonald writes: Earlier this year, visiting Florida, I had the very great privilege to meet botanist John Beckner. He had come with Fran Palmeri to botanise in the unspoilt Rosemary Bald Scrub, a unique habitat around my sister‟s home, which is the locale of the endangered Florida Scrub Jay. We went on to Highlands Hammock State Park where John had promised he would show me some possible sites of C. baldwinii. The afternoon passed very quickly as John shared with us his extensive knowledge of the Florida native flora. We spent a long time at a site where previously he had found Orchids growing, these being his special interest, unfortunately without success. We never did get to see the C. baldwinii, but I had no regrets – it was reward enough to have spent the day with such a wonderful botanist. We were so sad to hear that John had died.

A postscript to Fran‟s article on Clematisbaldwinii↑ in The Clematis 2010:

Meanwhile, in the East … Keith

Treadaway UK

As in my previous article dealing with the botanists connected with Clematis Subgenus Viorna, the Wikipedia website has been my main resource for research, therefore I would be genuinely delighted to hear if anyone spots any points for correction.

OOnce again, I must firstly acknowledge the Titan of botany, Linnaeus. In 1753 he set in print the formal description of C. integrifolia var. integrifolia. The father of binomial nomenclature, all modern plant classification stems from his work and since his work and life are so widely described in the literature I have decided not to try to summarise it here. Instead I have concentrated on the other important botanical personalities of the era, presenting for each a brief synopsis of their careers and lives. Whilst so many of the species of Subgenus Viorna are in North America, there are a number in the East (from the UK longitude of course!) and it is the personalities connected with those, which I am looking at here.

Otto Kuntze. Carl Ernst Otto Kuntze, (Kuntze) as it would seem he was named, always signed himself as Otto Kuntze. He was of German origin, born in Leipzig in 1843. He was educated at two schools, a commercial school and a Realschule, which has a more scientific base. He trained in Pharmaceutics, and was a keen botanist from early youth, collecting plant specimens from his local area. The collection was later published in his Taschen-Flora von Leipzig of 1867. Starting as an apothecary, he moved on to be a clerk, spending much of his time on botanical excursions. In 1868 he opened his own business as a manufacturer of volatile oils and essences, a venture which was so successful that in five years he was able to retire and devote his life to the natural sciences.

From 1874 to 1876 he went on a world tour, making significant Ethnological collections (which were later given to the Volkermuseum in Leipzig) as well as a collection of dried plant specimens amounting to over seven thousand items. He published the account of this journey as Um die Erde in 1881.

Desiring a scientific education, he attended a number of universities, gaining his doctorate from Freiburg im Breisgau in 1878.

The Clematis 2011

In the following year he began to formulate his own ideas on systematic botany, being dissatisfied with the system then in use. He published the results of his initial thoughts on the matter as part of a work on the genus Rubus: Methodik der Speciesbeschreibung und Rubus in 1897. From 1884 and over the next six years he organised and described his large botanical collection, publishing them in two volumes Revisio Generum Plantarum in 1891. This prompted great arguments, being described as „virtually a revision of the names of all flowering plants‟. The third volume, published in three parts in 1893 and 1898 was based on his collections from a trip to South America, undertaken in 1891 to 1893 and included a discussion on the problems of botanical nomenclature, proposing many more name changes. His work covered much ground and provoked significant reaction, from general acceptance to strident objection and he proceeded to compound some of the disagreement when he later published personal attacks on some of his critics. The whole subject was finally settled in 1905, at the Second International Congress of Botany in Vienna and in 1930 at the Fifth International Congress in Cambridge. Kuntze himself appeared in 1905 – but only to question the authority of the Congress to legislate in these matters.

He spent his final years travelling, expanding his herbarium and writing. He died at his home in San Remo in 1907. By now he had well and truly shaken botanists‟ complacency (which he felt existed at that time) and compelled his fellow botanists, sometimes against their own inclinations, to address and solve many of the enigmas of nomenclature. Amongst his many descriptions and of particular interest, here, are C. integrifolia var. latifolia and C. fusca var. amurensis, both compiled in 1885.

Camillo Karl Schneider. (C.K.Schneid) Born in Gröppendorf in Saxony in 1876, this Austrian farmer‟s son started work as a gardener before working in the Berlin City Parks Department, where he assisted in the editorial work for Gartenwelt (a periodical) which in turn led to work as a landscape assistant in both Berlin and Darmstadt. Moving to Vienna in 1900 as a freelance architect and writer, he travelled in many areas of Europe, publishing his first books in 1904. These included the beginning of his Illustrated Handbook of Broad Leaved Trees, completed in 1912. In 1906 he published in his book Illustriertes Handbuch der Laubholzkunde what we currently consider the correct description of C. × cylindrica, a hybrid which had been mentioned first in Andrews‟ Botanical Repository of 1799. He also began an exhaustive study of the genus Berberis – the manuscript of his findings, which should have been his definitive work, was sadly destroyed in the bombing raids on Berlin in 1943.

He was also travelling further afield, notably to China in 1913, then moving on to Shanghai in 1915 before coming to rest in Boston, USA. Here, he worked in the World famous Arnold

The Clematis 2011

Arboretum along with Sargent, Rehder and Wilson, before returning to Vienna in 1919. After two years in Vienna he moved back to Berlin, working on the new periodical Gartenschönheit, which continued until 1942. He was then employed by its successor Gartenbau im Reich while continuing as a landscape architect in public parks and gardens. The War left Schneider in poverty and he was forced to continue working virtually until his death, publishing his final book in 1950, just one year before his passing.

Augustin Pyramus de Candolle. (DC.) Born in Geneva, Switzerland in 1778, he became one of the great names of botany. At the age of seven he developed a serious case of hydrocephalus but managed to rise above it, becoming a formidable scholar. In 1794 he began his scientific studies under Vaucher, who inspired him to become a botanist. In 1796 he moved to Paris to work with the French geologist Dolomieu and then was recommended by Desfontaines to the herbarium of Charles Louis L‟Héritier de Brutelle in 1798. This was an enormous leap forward in status and culminated in his delineating his first genus, Senebiera, the following year. He began to publish his earliest works, among them Plantarum Historia Succulentarum, a four volume work, in 1799 followed by Astragalogia in 1802. These successes brought him to the notice of Georges Cuvier and Jean-Baptiste Lamarck. Candolle, with Cuvier's approval, acted as deputy at the College de France in 1802. Lamarck entrusted him with the publication of the third edition of the Flore Française (1803–1815). In the introduction to this work, Principes Élémentaires de la Botanique, Candolle proposed a natural method of plant classification as opposed to the artificial Linnaean method. The premise of Candolle's method is that taxa do not fall along a linear scale; they are discrete, not continuous.

In 1804 he published an essay on the properties of medicinal plants and was awarded the degree of Doctor of Medicine, following which he spent some years undertaking a comprehensive national botanical and agricultural survey of France for the French government; his findings were eventually published in 1813. During this period he was appointed (in 1807) as professor of botany in the medical faculty at Montpellier, later becoming the first chair of botany (1810). While there he published his Théorie Élémentaires de la Botanique (1813), introducing his new classification system and giving the word „taxonomy‟ to the botanic world.

He relocated back to Geneva in 1816 and the following year was invited to fill the new post of Chair of Natural History, spending the rest of his life (describing C. × diversifolia in his Systema Naturale in 1818) trying to complete a full natural system of classification. The project was ultimately contracted somewhat, compared with his

Wood County Mystery

Clematis, continued…

Sonnia Hill USA

Editor – I am indebted once again to Sonnia Hill (SH) for further in-the-field news about developments in the Viorna Group of clematis, in Texas, USA. Sonnia recently discovered populations of an unidentified, beautiful species in Wood County, in the north east of Texas and has taken photos and prepared dry specimens of the plants, flowers and fruits. She has also been in correspondence with various specialist botanists regarding their identity. The plants in question belong to the Clematis glaucophylla complex which includes C. versicolor, C. glaucophylla, C. texensis, C. addisonii, and C. carrizoensis. The latter plant was recently recognised as a new species by botanist Dwayne Estes. (See A NEW NARROWLY ENDEMIC SPECIES OF CLEMATIS (RANUNCULACEAE:

SUBGENUS

VIORNA) FROM NORTH- EASTERN TEXAS: SIDA 22(1): 65 – 77 2006).

Over recent months Sonnia has kindly provided me with details of discussions she has had with botanists Dwayne Estes (DE) and Jason Singhurst (JS) who have been pondering whether this is another new species or a variant of one already known. Sonnia also sent photos to Aaron Flodden (AF). Carol Lim (CL) has assisted along the way and has now germinated some seeds of the Wood County plants. Carol has also been in correspondence about the plants with Aaron Flodden.

SH: Brian: This year I have a set of new photos, taken at the end of April. The locations have interesting names –„15 Acres‟ , „Mr. Lee's‟ , „Ruby's Gate‟ , „Avalon Wood‟ etc, from present or past owners. The leaves are glaucous, but are not as rounded apically as C. carrizoensis The unknown Clematis has lobed leaves and the achene tails are feathery. DE: Hi Sonnia, the more I see your photos the more I am quite convinced of the distinctiveness of C. carrizoensis and the more

Unless stated, all images ©Sonnia Hill At Mr Lee’s

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something of a „polymath‟. In addition to his work as a doctor and his passion for plant collecting and categorization, and data collection in connection with weather, he was also interested in the differing geographical areas he visited as well as the creatures living in them. In some ways he was one of the first people to realise that the way in which humans act can have a significant effect on nature in all its forms.

Eduard August von Regel. (Regel) Born in 1815 in Gotha, Russia, von Regel began his career in the Royal Garden in Gotha. He then volunteered to work at Gottingen Botanical Garden before moving on to Bonn and Berlin. In 1842 he relocated to Zurich to become head of the botanical garden there and also worked as a Professor of Science. He founded the magazine Gartenflora in 1852 and in this he went on to describe many new species, as a result of botanical collections sent to him by naturalists and explorers. In 1855 he moved to St Petersburg, first as a director of research, then as a senior botanist, and finally in 1875, as director of the Imperial Botanical Garden, where he stayed until his death in 1892. There are many plants named by him, and indeed for him, and as well as his descriptions in association with Tiling, he also described C. fusca var. mandschurica in 1861.

Carl Johann Maximowicz. (Maxim.) Born in Estonia in 1827, he studied in Tartu before working in the local botanical gardens; thence to St. Petersburg and various botanical expeditions to Eastern Asia, from where he returned with significant collections, gaining many awards. He dedicated most of his life to plants. During his life he was a recognised expert not only in Russia, but also in Japan, and Europe, visiting, as a specialist, Kew, Uppsala and Leiden botanical gardens. His descriptions included C. fusca var. violacea in 1859, later redesignated as C. ianthina var. ianthina by Koehne.

Bernhard Adalbert Emil Koehne. (Koehne). A German botanist born in 1848 near Striegau (now Strzegom. Poland). He held the post of professor of Botany in Berlin and was a leading authority on the family Lythraceae. His main work was Deutsche Dendrologie (1893); he passed away in 1918. It was Koehne who redesignated C. fusca var. violacea as C. ianthina var. ianthina.

The Clematis 2011

Takenoshin Nakai. (Nakai) A Japanese botanist who was born in 1882 and went on to become the government botanist of Korea, around1910. He named the genus Chosenia, in recognition of the former name of Korea, Chosen. He later became the director of Tokyo Botanical Garden, describing C. fusca var. glabricalyx and recognising that which later became C. fusca var. obtusifolia under the name C. ianthina var. mandschurica forma obtusifolia in 1936. He died in 1952.

Tamezo Mori. (T.Mori) Japanese botanist, born 1884, died 1962. Described C. fusca var. umbrosa in Enumeratio Plantae Coreanae (1922) Thus far I have been unable to turn up any further details about Mori and would be especially appreciative if anyone could assist with information.

Kingo Miyabe. (Miyabe) Born in 1860 in Japan, Miyabe studied at Sapporo Agricultural College and after graduation went on to Harvard where he studied Botany. He returned to Sapporo to research plant pathology and mycology, and to teach. In 1927 he became Professor Emeritus at Hokkaido Imperial University and by 1936 had become the President of the Botanical Society of Japan. In 1946 he was awarded the Order of Culture and was elected the first honorary citizen of Sapporo (1949) before being recommended to membership of the Japan Academy (1950). He died the following year. His name lives on in the Kingo Miyabe Collection at Hokkaido University; his connection with Clematis comes from definitively describing C. fusca var. yezoensis, in 1884, though the plant had been previously noted under other names since 1876.

Tchang Bok Lee. T.B. Lee. Defined C. fusca var. coreana in 1985, after Léveilléé had described it as C. coreana. It is to be noted that the plant described by Lee was raised from seed collected by the Nordic Arboretum Expedition to South Korea of 1976, which also saw the collecting of seed of the plant described by M. Johnson as C. ianthina var. kuripoensis.

Magnus Johnson. (M.Johns.) Magnus Johnson, sadly no longer with us, known to many BCS members either personally or by reputation. I will not go into detail, except to say that he was a modern giant of the field and described C. ianthina var. kuripoensis, as noted above. It is interesting to bear in mind that other forms of (presumably) this plant have since been collected in the same area by the WynnJones‟ of Crûg Farm, the best known form of this being catalogued under „BSWJ700‟ .

Wood County Mystery

Clematis, continued…

Sonnia Hill USA

Editor – I am indebted once again to Sonnia Hill (SH) for further in-the-field news about developments in the Viorna Group of clematis, in Texas, USA. Sonnia recently discovered populations of an unidentified, beautiful species in Wood County, in the north east of Texas and has taken photos and prepared dry specimens of the plants, flowers and fruits. She has also been in correspondence with various specialist botanists regarding their identity. The plants in question belong to the Clematis glaucophylla complex which includes C. versicolor, C. glaucophylla, C. texensis, C. addisonii, and C. carrizoensis. The latter plant was recently recognised as a new species by botanist Dwayne Estes. (See A NEW NARROWLY ENDEMIC SPECIES OF CLEMATIS (RANUNCULACEAE:

SUBGENUS

VIORNA) FROM NORTH- EASTERN TEXAS: SIDA 22(1): 65 – 77 2006).

Over recent months Sonnia has kindly provided me with details of discussions she has had with botanists Dwayne Estes (DE) and Jason Singhurst (JS) who have been pondering whether this is another new species or a variant of one already known. Sonnia also sent photos to Aaron Flodden (AF). Carol Lim (CL) has assisted along the way and has now germinated some seeds of the Wood County plants. Carol has also been in correspondence about the plants with Aaron Flodden.

SH: Brian: This year I have a set of new photos, taken at the end of April. The locations have interesting names –„15 Acres‟ , „Mr. Lee's‟ , „Ruby's Gate‟ , „Avalon Wood‟ etc, from present or past owners. The leaves are glaucous, but are not as rounded apically as C. carrizoensis The unknown Clematis has lobed leaves and the achene tails are feathery. DE: Hi Sonnia, the more I see your photos the more I am quite convinced of the distinctiveness of C. carrizoensis and the more

Unless stated, all images ©Sonnia Hill At Mr Lee’s

The

Clematis 2011

amount of DNA has to be increased – in order to be sequenced. The region of DNA to be sequenced is amplified by an enzyme and a special pair of primers. It is convenient that chloroplast DNA is easy to amplify. The sequence of bases that constitute the DNA can then be „read‟, using the „Sanger method‟.

CL: Sonnia, I heard back from Aaron on the mystery clematis in Texas, near you in Wood County. I forwarded to him the photos you took, including close-ups of the foliage as well as the wonderful pictures of the vines packed with flowers. It would seem they have decided it is more likely to be C. carrizoensis They are now undertaking DNA testing on all the species. Aaron has two plants that you sent me, plus a couple of the seedlings (left, image ©Carol Lim) from the bluish purple-flowered clematis from Wood County, grown from seed you sent me. Here's his reply: AF: This can only be C. carrizoensis! The thick highly reticulate leaves with the bluish C. versicolor-like upper surface and the goldish hairs beneath, is typical, as is the cordate base and abrupt apex with the mucronate point. That is the same purple colour Dwayne and I saw last year. These forms are precisely why Mike Dennis called these C. versicolor in his work, but he noted that there were several

characters that did not match well. So, ecology is another part of the problem. Dr. Dennis is assisting us with the DNA work. He believes C. carrizoensis is merely a sand growing form of C. versicolor. When it is growing in calcium-rich sand, with low moisture and high sun, it has thick leaves, to compensate for the conditions. Thus, we see it with thinner leaves, in the garden or in pots of richer soil. I think Dwayne is right on this one. It has too many other characters to place it with C. versicolor. Related, yes, but not the same species.

BC: We await further news!

Reference

A NEW NARROWLY ENDEMIC SPECIES OF CLEMATIS (RANUNCULACEAE: SUBGENUS VIORNA) FROM NORTHEASTERN TEXAS: SIDA 22(1): 65 – 77. 2006. Estes, Dwayne The Clematis 2007. Thanks to Dwayne Estes, Jason Singhurst, Aaron Flodden and Carol Lim.

DE: Sonnia, your pictures raise some very important questions that need to be addressed. First, it is very clear that the plants you've photographed belong to the group of species that I referred to in my paper as the Clematis glaucophylla complex which includes C. versicolor, C. glaucophylla, C. texensis, C. addisonii, and C. carrizoensis. There is no doubt about this. Based on geography and habitat, these plants should be Clematis carrizoensis. Obviously the flowers are a much darker bluish-lavender that what I described for C. carrizoensis – those near Tyler being a yellowish-cream with faint bluishlavender tinged at base. The other thing that seems to link these plants to C. carrizoensis is the shape and pattern of lobing on the leaflets. It appears as though these plants have rather thick and heavily reticulate leaves too. Based on all this, I only see – possibilities.

First, these plants could be C. carrizoensis. If this is the case, then obviously I didn't do a good enough job in assessing variation in flower colour and may have jumped the gun, so to speak, in characterising C. carrizoensis as having only light-coloured creamy-yellow flowers with a faint lavender tint basally. This could be because I only saw one single population in flower. However, a couple of the specimens I examined also displayed the lighter coloured flower. If this is the case, then an article amending the description of C. carrizoensis, to include the dark bluish-lavender colour form is warranted – but see my caution below!

The second option is that these plants are actually C. versicolor. If this is the case, then C. carrizoensis would likely need to be formally synonymized with C. versicolor Obviously as the author of C. carrizoensis I'd be loathe to see this happen but if the evidence shows that this should be the case, then it should be done. I have stayed up late thinking about this situation on occasion! This past July I actually traveled back to Tyler and showed the population to a good friend of mine, who is an excellent taxonomist, who grows a lot of clematis and who has seen C. versicolor in the field at numerous localities. He agrees that these plants are not C. versicolor. For now, I also believe that C. carrizoensis and C. versicolor are distinct and I am inclined to go with my first option above. The plants that you've

Wood County

Wood County

Magnificent plant in full flower: Mr Lee’s Image ©Sonnia Hill photographed have a different leaflet shape (on average) and a different lobing pattern, with darker flowers than those of C. versicolor.

A third possibility, which I don't view as likely, is that your plants represent yet another species of Clematis. At this time I don't believe this to be true but it would have to be considered as a possibility, to test. So, where to go from here? A detailed study is needed to test the variation of C. carrizoensis (typical, as described by me), your blue “C. carrizoensis” plants, and C. versicolor. To do this, the following is needed.

1. leaf tissue from as many samples in Texas as you can provide. These will be used to conduct a molecular study of DNA sequence variation;

2. seeds or plants from several populations to be grown in a common garden study with the others. I've copied my friend and colleague Aaron Flodden in on this, for his thoughts. Perhaps you can send your images to him too.

I think these plants are probably C. carrizoensis but as I stated earlier, more work will be required to determine conclusively. Perhaps we can have the answer this year, depending on how quickly we can get live plants growing here in a common garden, and analyze DNA sequences

From Osamu Miikeda: Plants have three kinds of DNA in a cell – nuclear DNA, mitochondrial DNA and chloroplast DNA. Plant researchers often sequence chloroplast DNA ( NOT mitochondrial DNA) to estimate relationships because the DNA is simpler This results in good estimations about relationships Usually DNA is extracted from a tiny fraction of a leaf (less than 0.1 g). The DNA then has to be „amplified‟ – the

The

Clematis 2011

amount of DNA has to be increased – in order to be sequenced. The region of DNA to be sequenced is amplified by an enzyme and a special pair of primers. It is convenient that chloroplast DNA is easy to amplify. The sequence of bases that constitute the DNA can then be „read‟, using the „Sanger method‟.

CL: Sonnia, I heard back from Aaron on the mystery clematis in Texas, near you in Wood County. I forwarded to him the photos you took, including close-ups of the foliage as well as the wonderful pictures of the vines packed with flowers. It would seem they have decided it is more likely to be C. carrizoensis They are now undertaking DNA testing on all the species. Aaron has two plants that you sent me, plus a couple of the seedlings (left, image ©Carol Lim) from the bluish purple-flowered clematis from Wood County, grown from seed you sent me. Here's his reply: AF: This can only be C. carrizoensis! The thick highly reticulate leaves with the bluish C. versicolor-like upper surface and the goldish hairs beneath, is typical, as is the cordate base and abrupt apex with the mucronate point. That is the same purple colour Dwayne and I saw last year. These forms are precisely why Mike Dennis called these C. versicolor in his work, but he noted that there were several

characters that did not match well. So, ecology is another part of the problem. Dr. Dennis is assisting us with the DNA work. He believes C. carrizoensis is merely a sand growing form of C. versicolor. When it is growing in calcium-rich sand, with low moisture and high sun, it has thick leaves, to compensate for the conditions. Thus, we see it with thinner leaves, in the garden or in pots of richer soil. I think Dwayne is right on this one. It has too many other characters to place it with C. versicolor. Related, yes, but not the same species.

BC: We await further news!

Reference

A NEW NARROWLY ENDEMIC SPECIES OF CLEMATIS (RANUNCULACEAE: SUBGENUS VIORNA) FROM NORTHEASTERN TEXAS: SIDA 22(1): 65 – 77. 2006. Estes, Dwayne The Clematis 2007. Thanks to Dwayne Estes, Jason Singhurst, Aaron Flodden and Carol Lim.

What To Do Next?

Bernard Allen UK

O Over the years, I have promoted the growing of clematis from seed – and and even having a go at hybridising. The pleasures and triumphs are all well documented. It has to be said, however, that with success comes a very tricky problem. In 2004 I grew a number of seedlings from seed harvested from „Doctor Ruppel‟. A good number of these seedlings proved very interesting indeed, for various reasons. One was a full vivid double of „Doctor Ruppel‟, which flowered for two years and then disappointingly just did not appear the third year. Others were weak and failed, and consequently were no great loss. Several very promising clematis remained; this article will, I hope, give an insight into the responsibilities that we all have when thinking about registering clematis and bringing them to the market place

To illustrate, the following further two clematis seedlings (recorded as DR No.1 [provisionally named „Rosemarie Ann‟] and Dr No. 2) portays the dilemma facing many of us who dabble in this exciting pastime.

Seedling DRNo.1– first flower (provisionally named ‘Rosemarie Ann’)

The Clematis 2011

This seedling, right from the very start, stood out from all the rest. It produced its first flower at the end of its second year – twelve months before any of the other seedlings. The flower was not, in fact, very striking at first and it almost went onto the compost heap. Fortunately, I noticed that it had a very interesting habit. All the other seedlings shot off, heading for the sun, but No 1 grew to about 12" in height, stopped and then produced its apical flower. Below the apex, buds had formed in every node. The following year, still in the greenhouse, DR No. 1 was in full flower at the beginning of April and had still not grown taller than 18". The flower can be described as being similar to „Doctor Ruppel‟ but with a different overall shape and centre – but much better than last year‟s flower. As with „Doctor Ruppel‟, it flowers from early to late summer, the second flush of blooms having a slightly different appearance and colours

Clematis‘Doctor Ruppel’

Seedling DRNo.1– second year

Most practised clematis growers will be able to spot the differences between the two plants immediately but to the ordinary gardener, it‟s just another stripy clematis. To the experienced eye, however, the differences are quite interesting. Since 2004, Dr No. 1 has not

DRNo.1– five years in pot grown taller than 1m (3′) in height. It flowers profusely from early April through to August outdoors. It has proven to be a superb, low growing, floriferous clematis ideally suited for container growing. It has typically large 20cm (8") flowers with eight tepals. The first flowers are pink with a deeper pink central bar; the later flowers have a deeper pink background and with a less pronounced central bar.

Comparing C. „Doctor Ruppel‟, potted up last year, with DR No. 1, potted up in 2006, the difference in height is remarkable.

Although not the same as „Doctor Ruppel‟, DR No. 1, to the ordinary gardener, would perhaps appear to be like many other clematis on the market: not sufficiently

DRNo.2

different or strikingly colourful to be a success in the wider clematis or nursery world. A further problem is that it does not produce much cutting material, only buds. This is easily overcome by the professional but still a disadvantage. Would these negative points outweigh the positive attributes: low-growing, ideal for a container and a stunning show plant –suitable for the modern gardener who has a small garden or just a patio but loves impact in early spring – in line with the current trend?

Then there is DR No. 2, rescued from oblivion because of its large flowers, some 22cm (9") from tip to tip and with a pretty centre. Again, too much like many others on the market and possibly not different enough to circulate. Not even provisionally named, although I do have plenty of contenders (three daughters and two granddaughters!) The underside proved a much nicer colour and did, I suppose, give it some charm. The centre has a dark, dusky look that some may find attractive – but would enough people like it, for it to be a „winner‟? Would gardeners class this as a „stunner‟ – who knows? Now for the dilemma: should we stick to the principle that nothing should be registered or introduced to the market that is not sufficiently different to what is already out there?

DRNo.2

It seems to me that the clematis world is getting ever more confusing for the ordinary gardener, with introductions duplicating names and plants that are poor copies of old and tried hybrids. They are often accompanied by claims that a plant has a certain habit and colours. If such claims turn

out to be inaccurate, in due course, the consumer becomes disappointed and ever more cynical. Fortunately, however, this is relatively infrequent and over the past few years there have been some wonderful new clematis introductions from all over the world!

My dilemma remains: to register or not to register?

All images © B Allen

Quick and Easy Clematis Seed Germination Using the Vermiculite Method

Alison Merritt Canada

M Many gardeners are under the impression that growing clematis from seed is a long and tedious process. Nothing could be further from the truth. Just as it‟s possible to simplify the hybridization process, there are ways to cut corners on germination to produce fast results with no special equipment and very little space required. Moist vermiculite in ziplock (top-sealing) plastic baggies makes an excellent Viable seeds medium for starting seeds. A ratio of a half cup of vermiculite to one tablespoon water is a good starting point to ensure the medium is neither too wet nor too dry. It

should feel slightly moist without clumping. This method works well for all types of clematis seeds, as well as many other species. Writing the details directly on the bag or on a piece of tape, such as name of the seeds being sown, (including the cross, or pollen parent if they are open-pollinated seeds), number of seeds and date started, plus any other relevant information such as source of seeds, will avoid confusion later.

Prepare the ripe seeds by simply removing the tails – carefully break or cut them off and drop the seeds into the labeled baggies of moist vermiculite. The majority of seeds will germinate at room temperature. Bags should be stored out of direct sunlight to avoid baking the seeds. Some, such as the Tangutica and Heracleifolia groups, will germinate quickly, often starting about two weeks after sowing. Many others, including integrifolia, fusca/ianthina and the early/large-flowered hybrids will begin germinating within three months, although they can take longer. Some, from the Viorna group in particular, may take a year or more but the wait is definitely worthwhile. Atragenes will

The Clematis 2011

Non-viable seeds require a warmcold-warm pattern to break dormancy. This is where the vermiculite method really shines, since the baggies can easily be placed in a fridge to provide the four week period of cold treatment. Using this method also allows easy monitoring of seeds. Questionable seeds, such as cracked or not fully ripe seeds can be started immediately. As time goes by, it will become obvious which seeds are viable. Any rotting seeds should be removed and discarded, to allow the remaining good seeds to germinate without a high fungal population in the bag. Some mould may appear on the seed coat, especially on the larger seed types but this does not appear to affect viable seeds. Seed coats can be relatively easily removed by carefully prying the two halves apart. A thumbnail gently pressed into the groove between the two sides of the seed coat works well. Seeds germinate equally well whether they still carry the seed coat, or have one or both sides removed. Baggies containing seeds with longer germination times may require additional water, as time goes by. You should check them for moisture as you check for germinations. A few drops are often all that is needed. If too much water is added simply add more dry vermiculite to bring the humidity to the level desired. To avoid rotting, germinated seeds should be transplanted promptly. The seedlings will require good light at this stage, so it may be useful to plan the starting dates to produce germinations to coincide with favorable conditions outdoors or in a greenhouse, if suitable indoor lighting won‟t be available.

The Clematis 2011

C.rectaderived seed, germinating in vermiculite

Sowing in vermiculite has allowed me the immense pleasure of growing a wide variety of clematis types. It is an excellent way to start valuable seeds, especially where there are only one or two seeds available. Seeds that are not quite fully ripe may be salvaged by putting them in moist vermiculite before they dry out. The conditions are virtually ideal in the baggie and can be manipulated readily to provide different temperature, light or moisture conditions as desired. It is an excellent method for anyone wanting to try growing clematis from seed. The success rate is very high, limited only by the quality of the seeds. Seeds from your own plants and/or those from the annual seed exchange are wonderful sources.

Of course, if you hybridise your own plants and produce your own seed, you will want germinations at the earliest possible time. Once you have seedlings, you have young plants; once you have plants you are on your way to flowers. If they are your own hybridised seeds you will be extremely keen to see the first flowers at the earliest possible time, and getting fast germinations helps you do just that

The reward – raised as C.texensis

All images Alison Merritt

From seed – Clematis patens Morren & Decne

Brian Collingwood UK

What to expect when raising Clematispatensfrom seed

WWhen I think of Clematis patens one thing that comes to mind is the superb black and white illustration plate, meticulously drawn by Miss B. Bergeron, in the book Les Clématites à Grandes Fleurs (Large-flowered clematis) (published in 1844) by Alphonse Lavallée (1836-1884). The image (opposite page) is supported by a description of the plant, which was introduced into European culture around 1836; therefore, by the time this particular portrait was penned, the plant or plants known to Lavallée would already have been fairly well characterized. Given the circumstances, they would by now have been propagated many times via cuttings and every single one of their seeds would have been eagerly sown on the day they were able to be harvested from the bearer.

Lavallée‟s 1844 description (abridged) is summarised below, followed, as a comparison, by the description by Vicki Matthews in The International Clematis Register and Checklist (2002). Details of growing Clematis patens from seed, supported by images of the stages of the growth of the plant from seedling to mature flowering plant, follow. The seed for these plants was obtained and sown between 1996 and 1998, from various sources including collections made in the wild in Japan and from the invaluable BCS seed exchange. During this particular period the BCS seed exchange was rich with seed of C. patens contributed by several different Japanese sources – never to be refused –some from the wild and others from cultivated plants, and it was possible to sow seed simultaneously from at least a dozen different sources. As you might expect with seed of disparate origins, a wide range of plants arose, displaying a fascinating spectrum of flowers and foliage. About seventy-five plants were raised altogether.

Although germinating seed and raising seedlings to first and second flowers is a medium term undertaking, all the effort and time is ultimately well worth it – one certainly acquires experience of the foliage and flowers of C patens, an invaluable insight. One has the pleasure of watching and comparing all the resultant seedlings as they develop and when the plants begin to produce their flowers for the first time, in batches in succession, the excitement is… total.

What is the accurate genetic derivation of these plants of modern times, compared to those that were being raised 100, 200, or 500 years ago, in the context of Clematis patens? One can only speculate. We acquire seed from known sources but we rarely have any insight into the circumstances in which a particular batch of seed arose, or any knowledge whatever of the parents of the plant that bore it, or its forebears!

An aside, whilst I remember it: if you do decide to grow any specific clematis species from seed (and you really must!), do yourself a big favour – automatically try to find seed for that species from more than one source, and sow them at the same time but in

Germination – first glimpse

Seedling at emergence – almost translucent, but develops chlorophyll immediately on seeing the light: about an inch tall.

different pots (of course). That way, you‟ll always have the fascinating additional awareness of comparing the seedling development, foliage and flowers from at least two plants or even two batches of plants, of the same species, but from different sources – you‟ll be amazed at the variations. Clematis is fluid.

Abridged basic translation of Lavallée‟s.description

„This vigorous shrub, which climbs strongly by wrapping its clinging leaf stalks around a suitable available support, can attain a significant height. The leaves of this floriferous vine are mostly compound but occasionally single, usually having three, rarely five, leaflets, oblong-lanceolate, or, with regard to the variants found in Europe, ovaltapering always to a sharp or more slender point and slightly rounded at the base; a slightly darker green, sometimes somewhat brownish; on the upper surface without hairs except on the central nerves, hairs at the margins; the underside carpeted with short appressed hairs throughout. The leaflets are rarely lobed. Petioles and petiolules of modest thickness. The erect flowers have a diameter similar to those of C. lanuginosa (12 – 18 or 20cm), with a range of forms and appearances, depending on the particular plant in question. Even among those from Japan a marked colour range is seen, from a vivid blue to light mauve or even a bluish white.

Sepals 6-8, variable in form even among the small group of plants grown in Europe (the degree of variability of the leaves is similar, as noted above); ranging from oblonglanceolate with a longish taper while others are more blunt at the tip and rounded toward the base. The upper surfaces of the sepals are completely hairless with three marked furrows lengthwise, the upper manifestation of the veins of the undersurface, which is covered with a light webbing of hairs which diminish toward the sepal edges, and which are longer and more densely packed along the middle parts; here the intensity of colouration decreases noticeably, while the general hue of the sepals is quite uniform

on both surfaces. The stamens are numerous (about 75) and vary in size; the filament slightly flattened, hairless, white, the same length as the anthers, which dehisce longitudinally, and are slightly flattened and pointed, of a dull brown, the lobes united by a flattened connective of a darker colour, covered throughout with a coating of short hairs. The carpels, about half as numerous as the stamens (approximately 30) and almost as long, are packed together erect; each is composed of a tiny ovary which merges into the style, covered with appressed hairs, long and silky, except the slimmer slightly pointed stigmas which are always hairless. The achenes only differ slightly from those of C. lanuginosa by being slightly smaller, although the hairs which coat the persistent style of each seed are of a more pronounced grey and duller.‟

The description by Vicki Matthews in the The International Clematis Register and Checklist, (some 160 years later) more or less mirrors the 1844 description, as expected, but with some minor differences in detail, as might be anticipated after the passage of such a time period, during which many C patens plants from many different seed sources have been raised.

Same seedling after 3 days

„Deciduous somewhat woody climber with stems to 4m. Leaves ternate or pinnate with 5 leaflets; leaflets broadly lanceolate to ovate, entire, slightly downy beneath. Buds ovoid, pointed, erect, hairy. Flowers 8-15cm across, solitary at the ends of shoots. Sepals 5-9, white to lilac-blue or violet-blue, occasionally yellowish, outside with green bar, ellipticobovate to ovate, long-pointed, somewhat overlapping, outside of sepals densely appressed hairy on the bar, the side white-downy. Filaments white to greenish white; anthers purplish brown or purplish red, sometimes yellow. Flowers May-June on previous year‟s growth, September on current year‟s growth.‟

Why might it be interesting to grow this plant from seed, given that it has already been known for so long? But, just how well known is it, really? By whom? Just how many people have actually owned a good specimen of Clematis patens? Not too many in recent years – only those people who have searched out plants of the species from specialist suppliers, or those who have gone as far as obtaining seed and raising new plants. That, overall, doesn‟t amount to a large number of instances. For a plant like this, so important to clematis lovers for many reasons, to get to know it, you have to grow it! It is an easy plant to raise and very, very rewarding.

One other matter: if you are interested in hybridisation, Clematis patens is one plant

and pool the results into a central „seed-bank‟, from which other members can withdraw whatever particular seeds they wish to try. The cost of a packet of seeds is always modest. Also, you can search on the internet and find specialist seed suppliers, of which there are several. You can contact individuals who already grow a particular species and request seeds from their plants; most people will gladly help out in this way. There are many ways to obtain seed if you look around and about.

Starting the process – sowing the seed

that you may well wish to include in your crosses. It is excellent, as a by-product of the above exercise, to automatically have a range of varied C. patens flowers arising each spring, for just this purpose.

From seed to first flowers and beyond

It is not difficult to obtain seed. For BCS members they are on a plate for you! Take advantage of the annual „seed-exchange‟ . Other plant societies also run similar exchanges; each year members collect seed from their plants

What you will see at first

There are a few ways of germinating seed. I use the „traditional method‟ of sowing in normal medium, in small pots – others germinate seeds in moist vermiculite (which can speed the process up markedly) – it is up to you to choose. You can sow clematis either in small pots or in trays, if you prefer. Don‟t plant too deep – They come on quickly one quarter inch (6mm) deep is fine.

Since some types of seeds can take a significant time to germinate, it is important to prepare the pots or trays carefully, in order to maintain a clean and stable environment. Personally I use 4” pots. The seeds are watered-in, then the pots are allowed to drain well, and then each pot is enclosed in a topsealing plastic bag. The bags have a white labelling area on the exterior, so you can write on the bag the identity of the seeds, the date sown, and the source; with a permanent marker pen. This ensures that a first class clean and stable environment is maintained, and the moisture level remains perfectly as required over a long period. Any good general medium will suffice; clematis seeds do not need special treatment. Cover the surface of the soil with ¼ inch of fine horticultural grit, if available. Amongst other benefits, the grit helps maintain moisture and reduces/retards growth of moss etc on the surface of the medium.

For easy handling, store pots in trays; to help maintain good conditions, keep the trays of pots of sown seeds away from direct sunshine. Personally, I find it convenient to store the majority of my pots under the staging of the cold greenhouse, shaded from A week later direct sun. The pots are exposed to the prevailing temperatures. They never get too warm in summer, but they do get frozen in winter. Being subject to the ambient temperatures they freeze and then re-thaw in concert with the local temperature cycle. Therefore in some winters they spend considerable amounts of time frozen. Some clematis do in fact need this kind of cold-exposure to promote germination of the seeds, others do not, or don‟t need it so much. In my experience winter freezing doesn‟t seem to particularly harm sown clematis seed.

Checking for germinations

Once you have amassed a fair number of seed pots the practical thing is to check them once a week each week throughout the year. There will be times when nothing seems to be happening - and yet other times when you may wish to check more frequently than weekly, because so many germinations are actually occurring at the same time. When you notice a germination in a pot immediately withdraw that pot from the storage location and bring it into the light (but never direct sunlight) in order for the seedling to best progress. If no germinations have happened, you simply replace the pot back into the storage tray with any others. A small (but „fun‟) point: at outset all of your seed pots are individually labelled with the identity of the seed sown. But never deliberately look at the label prior to checking – look at it after you have spotted any germination…your mind then has an extended moment to speculate on the identity of

the germinating seed, an interesting and pleasant, sometimes exciting train of thought when there are particular seeds you have spent some time waiting for! Seeing a new germination in a pot is always an agreeable surprise. Even more the case if you have sown seeds which have been sent by friends abroad or been derived from some other exotic source. I can assure you that it is quite exciting to see such germinations. So savour the moment, and look at the label after you spot the germinating seedling or seedlings. You can do it the other way around and

Seedlings may look worse for wear after winter but the end result – finding a don’t let it worry you – they will come back strongly seedling – is the same. But the pleasure is more, this way! When you must, look at the label. You may think I am joking, but when it happens to you, you may agree with me!

Germination Times

There are many different clematis species and cultivars, consequently there is a fairly wide range of germination times. In addition, factors such as the age of the seed and the storage conditions can also have a bearing. As a whole, clematis seeds seem to fall into one of three

Image taken through a hand lens, seedling just emerging through the layer of gravel and seeing light for the first time.

More brand new germinations

main groups – those that come fairly quickly – 30 to 100 days; those that take a little more time – perhaps 200-450 days; and there are a number of „in-betweens‟ which seem to need around 100-200 days. With C patens and the large-flowered hybrids and certain other species it is prudent to expect a significant waiting period before any seedlings arise. This can be anywhere from six months (conservative) to two or more years. In my experience, C. patens and large flowered hybrids seeds tend to require on average around 200-400 days to germinate, with the majority being toward the furthest part of this range, and some beyond it. (Many of the Viorna Group need a similar time; all these are plants which produce seeds having a tougher and more impervious seed coat; also, some may require a period of cold before they will germinate, and may even occasionally keep you waiting a second winter, before they come.) Here are some results:

C. patens Japan wild 02/04/1996 12/09/1997 525 days

C. patens Mix BCS 15/06/1996 10/06/1997 350 days

C patens Japan wild 17/03/1997 12/01/1998 300 days

C patens Mix BCS 10/01/1998 12/09/1999 600 days

C. patens Japan wild 10/02/1998 12/10/1998 240 days

C. patens Ruri/Vuru Okoshi BCS 20/02/1999 02/10/1999 222 days

C. patens Nara, Japan 20/02/1999 22/10/1999 242 days

C patens Plant collector 10/11/1998 15/10/1999 355 days

C. patens Japan source 20/02/1998 17/02/1999 363 days

C. patens Japan source 18/07/1998 29/10/1999 455 days

Stratification of seed – giving seed cold periods

You might want to attempt to speed up the germination process, or perhaps it might be relevant in your particular climate. You can „mimic‟ winter periods by placing seeds in a

plastic bag, mixed in a blend of moist sphagnum moss and sharp sand, 65:35 - and putting in the fridge - not the freezer. I've seen a wide range of variations on this theme, all basically similar, so it's not an exact science as such. Try three and six months periods prior to sowing, but check them whilst in the fridge regularly as well, just in case some decide to sprout relatively early – which they may do. Don't use up all of your seeds on this method - sow some seed in pots in the usual way too. The time's going to pass anyway - so you might as well have some planted by the standard method, as you know they should eventually germinate reliably, given sufficient time. Try the vermiculite method as well (see The Clematis 2010), this way you can almost certainly have germinations more quickly, if this important to you.

Managing your seedlings

Seedlings arising in winter or just before: seedlings have builtin mechanisms for survival and will withstand quite severe cold and come through fine, in the majority of instances. Those which arise some weeks before the onset of the cold weather will have developed some pairs of early leaf-type structures and these may well rot away and leave what appears to be a dead spike of old growth, poking out of the medium. In other cases they will persist and remain green. Depending on the severity of the winter it is possible that some

The Clematis 2011

A couple of months

seedlings may succumb but in my conditions in Manchester UK it has been extremely rare that this has happened. In truth there have been times when I have had particularly important germinations and I have to admit to bringing them indoors for a few days during the worst of it. By „cold‟ I mean where, say, the greenhouse has six inches or more of snow on it and a really bitter, solid freeze lasts for a week or ten full days or more.

But this is still only a short period and is only a very occasional thing to consider doing. Usually they die back to some degree and then come again when the early spring comes. Don‟t worry about them, they have growth buds lower down and will almost always come again. In fact, you will be surprised by the stockiness and vigour of even very tiny young seedlings, once they do resume growth. The sprouts they put up are obviously much more substantial and hardy than the baby seedling foliage of a few months ago. Already, the most juvenile phase has passed into history and the plants, though still very small, now begin to express themselves in true clematis fashion; the buds break and produce elongating vines. As the vines extend, leaf-pairs are left behind and the leaf

Winter catches this seedling stalks begin to wrap around any available supports. Though young, I personally would already be looking to prune the seedlings, soon. The pruned plants pause for a week or so, and then come back even more strongly than before! Unseen below ground, the root is developing at maximum rate and doubles, triples and quadruples its volume in a matter of weeks. The plants are approaching a critical point and will soon show themselves to be strong enough to cancel any further worries about their innate ability to survive and prosper. You‟ll realise, then, that they are a lot tougher than they originally looked. You probably worried too much, when they were new-borns. They really don‟t, except in extreme conditions, need much assistance to survive. Once you‟ve got seedlings past the very initial phases, through their first winter, they will never need more than reasonable husbandry to go on. If at this stage you de-pot the seedling and bare the root, you will be surprised, or even shocked, to see just how much root development has taken place. As with any young, the laws of nature and survival dictate that a lot must be achieved in a short space of time. Once the root has reached a critical volume, the young plant, as a whole, attains a level of stability, becoming more than able to easily satisfy its needs for water, nutrients and photosynthesis. After this, most seedlings will go through the first full season and achieve some maturity without too much effort on your part. The plants, with minimal intervention, do it all themselves. If you tend the young plants with meticulous care, you can even get some – but not all – to produce their first flowers in the very same season.

Back they come

Seedlings arising in spring: easy – because they have the entire season in front of them to establish and grow away to their heart‟s content – six or more months of ideal growing conditions. Once they have several sets of leaves they can be pruned. They will respond strongly and quickly make good, stocky young plants. As autumn and winter arrive they shed most or all of their foliage. But early into their second season they break vigorously into new growth and immediately grow away with strength and vitality, making new vines and forming leaves. It is very likely indeed that they will produce their first flowers in the coming few months.

Seedlings arising in summer: still easy, as they have long enough to fully establish; even in a cold winter it will be very rare that you lose any.

Tie new vines up 18” stakes then once top is reached take vines back down on a 2nd stake

Some of the seedlings

Seedlings arising in autumn: the seedlings make as much development as possible in the time available. As the days shorten and temperatures begin to fall away they may lose their early foliage and settle down, in hibernation, for the winter. They are aware that spring is not too far away and will wait patiently until growing conditions improve. They are fully equipped to cope with the seasonal cycle and even at this early stage, relatively large buds may well be evident. In a milder winter the green early foliage may persist to a greater or lesser degree, you only have to watch out for any pests or fungal attacks while generally maintaining good hygiene.

Restrict the (number of vines on each) plant and control the volume of foliage

A small greenhouse can accommodate a surprising number of plants. The actual number depends on the volume of space taken up by each individual plant – the more compact the plant, the more plants you can fit in any given space.

If you are going to grow and cope comfortably with a significant number of plants in a smaller greenhouse, consider restricting the volume occupied by each plant. If you only grow a few plants, it won‟t matter too much if the plants become fairly sizeable as growth steadily occurs. You can allow seedlings to produce quite a lot of new extension growths, which you gradually tie onto and around 24” (0.7m) stakes, using plasticcovered ties. When and if necessary, move on to 36” (0.9m) stakes in due course. However, in due course of the season the plants can become very bushy, and, once you are eventually raising more than a critical number, the space in your greenhouse can quickly become filled.

If you want to raise a higher number of plants, it is prudent to find some way to limit the space occupied by each plant. If you can manage this successfully you can fit more plants into the same space, and therefore see more new flowers each season. In order to be able to maximise the number of plants you can handle you can restrict the number of growing vines. I find that two main vines are usually quite sufficient – one for the first flowers, one for „insurance‟. Having said this, with experience, one might come to feel that the second vine may also be considered to be superfluous, since in most instances, should a problem arise with the main vine, the plant can re-grow from side buds or from new growths which arise at soil level. The plants‟ ability to regenerate in this fashion gives you plenty of cover. With sharp and clean scissors regularly nip out any unwanted shoots that arise from below soil level, or from axillary buds. In other words, keep the plants „controlled‟. Of course, one can allow occasional side shoots to develop in order to see whether they may bear flowers. Any excess vines can be removed as you „garden‟ your seedlings on a daily basis. As the foliage develops, (the foliage of C. patens can be quite beautiful in itself) the excitement mounts, and flower buds will begin to appear. One day you are planting the grapes, the next day you are sipping the wine!

First Flowers

Generally, the first flowers of a new clematis plant, large-flowered or otherwise, may not always be representative of the final, settled form. Be aware of this because it is easy to

The Clematis 2011

make a judgement too quickly. Give them a chance, over at least a couple of seasons, as marked changes can sometimes occur –usually mainly between the first year and second year flowering. You will definitely see this happening if you raise new plants over a several seasons. Changes can be anything from minor to significant, generally in the colour of the sepals, but, to a certain extent, depending on the type of flower, in the form also. On the other hand, many plants produce flowers which remain stable and never show any changes.

One final point: you cannot see what colour the flowers will be before opening; nor can you appreciate the shape and form of the sepals before the flowers actually display. Until the very moment, the result will always be unknown. The excitement of what may arise will increase, until the secret is finally revealed – there truly is, on every occasion, some special magic in witnessing the opening of the first flowers of a brand new plant!

References

Les Clématites à Grandes Fleurs Alphonse Lavallée; Paris, Jean-Baptiste (Large-flowered clematis) (1844) Baillière et fils; 1884 The International Clematis Register RHS London ISBN 9781902896182 and Checklist (2002) and supplements

Raising New Clematis from Open-pollinated Seeds

Helen Poirier Canada

The awakening

IIfirst became interested in clematis in early 2007. My husband retired and in late spring 2006 we moved to the tiny village of Saint-Ignace in rural New Brunswick. No garden as such, apart from a small overgrown rock garden and an untidy brown „ mess‟, on a trellis affixed to a wall of the house. To my surprise, the untidy brown mess soon greened up and covered itself in buds. When it bloomed I was amazed at the colours and there and then I fell in love with my first clematis.

In order to try and identify this beauty I joined the internet plants discussion forum Gardenbuddies.com and stumbled into the Clematis in the Garden forum. Within minutes I had an identification for my clem, „Ville de Lyon‟ .

Fortunately, or, some might say, unfortunately, I stuck around the site and started reading the discussions and looking at people's pictures and falling in love. Thanks to that clematis forum and the internet search engine Google, I soon saw a LOT of clematis that I wanted to get. Unfortunately, in Canada, wanting and getting clematis are not the same thing, especially in a small province. Source and choice are limited: one online retailer, a single nursery within driving distance (this has pretty much the same selection of plants every year. However, here, I did manage to acquire „Blue Bird‟ and „Markham's Pink‟ and these were the first two clematis I ever bought.) One or two garden centres are nearby but they are usually only open for around two months – then they close. They tend not to have too much to offer – mostly the types that don't appeal to me – along with the occasional viticella. None of the locals have any integrifolias, atragenes or viornae and most clematis specialists in Canada no longer do mail order.

Gardening in zone4b can be a bit of a challenge. We have six-month winters to get through during which the garden is under four or five feet of snow and the temperatures at times get down to -30°C and that's not counting the windchill factor. It is April when the snow melts and the ground begins to thaw; as the thaw progresses, however, you can see that the garden plants have already started into growth. The hellebores have buds, the snowdrops and other bulbs are pushing up, pulsatillas, aquilegias and hardy geraniums, to name but a few, begin to flourish – hard to believe so much could be going on, under the snow.

I dig up my plunged pots of seedlings as soon as the ground thaws and take them into the greenhouse, to get them off to a better start. The last frost here is usually around 1st June and it is only safe from about then to plant beans and tomatoes etc. First frost is anytime from around 14th-30th September. If the frosts aren't too severe the clematis will keep going until mid October. We have lots of snow cover and last winter we had record amounts, with drifts more than six feet high in places. We even had five feet of snow on

Dark C.koreanaderived seedling C.macropetalatype seedling

Seedling of ‘Zolibe’ I AM® A LITTLE BEAUTY

Seedling from ‘Joe Zary’

Seedling of ‘Pangbourne Pink’

Seedling of ‘Zoklako’ MORNING STAR

The Clematis 2011

the roof at one time – which was really scary – the snow on the ground was halfway up the windows. Our trees don‟t reach full leaf until June and the time of high autumn colour is early October. The leaves are usually gone by the last week of October, after which it starts to get cold. Once the Autumn arrives, I panic about what I will do with all the seedlings still in the greenhouse and I tend to plant them out in the garden, wherever I can find a space. I keep my atragenes in the veggie garden (which is getting smaller each year as the atragenes take over). The rest are plunged into the ground in their pots to over-winter. The ground goes through a freeze-thaw cycle until it finally solidifies around late November.

Luckily for me, on the internet clematis forum lots of people were posting pictures of seedlings they had grown… and the penny dropped. If I wanted some of these beautiful clematis, I would have to grow them myself!

My first desire was to have some integrifolias. Google helped me find Gardens North –Seeds for the World from whence I purchased seed of integrifolias, mixed heracleifolias, C. ladakhiana, C. ochroleuca, C. potaninii and some others I have forgotten. Next, I found Alplains Seeds and purchased C. hirsutissima, C. hirsutissima var. scottii and C. columbiana var. tenuiloba; and from another seed specialist I was able to obtain C. campaniflora and some of the Viorna Group. If you think clematis are addictive, just wait until you start playing with seeds! Before long I also had many offers of seeds from other enthusiasts and had started to trade, by post, some of the seeds I had purchased. Clematis people are the most incredibly generous people you will ever meet: I suppose most gardeners are pretty much the same. I have some fabulous seedlings but most of the credit goes to some amazing clematis friends who have been very generous indeed with their excellent seeds. Since then, I have joined various societies that offer seed exchanges – I think that for open-pollinated seeds, the more varied the sources, the more varied the „pollen parents‟. If you have enough sources, open-pollinated seeds can give you the most superb, amazing range of plants.

Not all clematis appeal to me. I am not much of a fan of large-lowered clematis – but I am charmed by the bells and the viticellas and, of course, the atragenes. I love flowers that nod. I also love the fact that I have clematis flowering all season long, starting with the atragenes, then the integrifolias and viornae and lastly, for me, the viticellas. Some of the atragenes have a second burst of blooms in late summer, which is a real bonus.

Germination and growing situation

Finding out how to germinate seeds using damp vermiculite in ziploc „baggies‟ (polythene bags with a re-sealable top) made seed germination so much easier and faster. It meant I could have dozens and dozens of baggies on the go, yet fit everything into just one small container. I usually sow seeds from November to January, so I end up with a lot of seedlings in the house. Making up the baggies and checking them throughout the long winter, and planting up seedlings, keeps me sane. My poor unfortunate husband has to put up with living in an obstacle course for a house. He is a saint! I deal with seeds, baggies and germinations from late October to early April. The seeds are sown into the baggies in moist vermiculite and I pot them up as they germinate. My home is kept fairly

A lovely atragene

Raised as C.ladakhiana

From BCS seed mix ‘Michelle’/‘Fascination’ Seedling of ‘Joe Zary’

Seedling of’ ‘Joe Zary’

Seedling of ‘Ruby’

The Clematis 2011

cool in winter, the temperature gauge being set at 18°C during the day and around 15°C at night. I have two small indoor greenhouses with low wattage fluorescent lights and when the sun is shining of a morning, I move the trays of seedlings into the sunlight. I also have a small outdoor greenhouse – but this is inaccessible until mid April – there are usually 4-5‟ (1-1.5m) snowdrifts between it and the house.

My very first seedling to flower was a Clematis chiisanensis – a relatively tiny plant with a huge flower bud – I was so thrilled that I couldn't leave it alone and had to take lots and lots of pictures. Unfortunately, my enthusiasm was such that I broke the stem while trying for an inside shot of the flower… but so very pretty – wonderful shade of red with a clean yellow and lovely little speckles.

Raising clematis from seed is not always plain sailing. Sometimes I lose plants. Last year for example, I had two 32-pot trays of atragene seedlings, some open-pollinated, some crosses. I nursed them throughout the summer and all were looking good but one day, when the pots were really dry, instead of hooking up the hose again (I had just put it away) I used some bottles of organic fertiliser to water them, and killed the lot. I was very disgusted with myself. We draw our water from a well, with no outside taps, so it is a real effort to hook-up the hoses for watering. Just about every single plant I killed would have likely flowered this year. Baby genocide!

Watching a seedling bud-up for the first time, then observing the bud find its shape and gradually develop colour – then trying to guess what the flower will look like – is just so much fun. Even better, to be able to send images to friends (by email and on the internet forum) so that they too can directly see and share the anticipation in real time. The atragenes have given me my best results so far. They are easy to germinate, easy to grow and, best of all, they can flower from a very early age. At best I have had seedlings flower around five months after germination. I find with the atragenes that there is fantastic variation in the flowers. This group of clematis is of superlative value for those of us who live in the frozen north.

At first, I thought it would be easy to pick the best plants out from my seedlings and cull the rest. But I have to admit that so far I have not composted a single one of my atragene seedlings. Even the ones that initially look similar are different in some way or other; they seem to develop their own personality and style and some even have fragrance. You are unlikely ever to experience an unattractive atragene.

Other thoughts

I have just recently started to think about making some of my own crosses. I am particularly interested in crossing integrifolias with various bell-types, including viticellas. I‟m not sure I can improve on Mother Nature‟s results, though. The great dream for me is an integrifolia of the colour and texture of „Romantika‟, with long, symmetrical sepals or else a deep red hirsute integrifolia with long symmetrical sepals. One thing I will say, if I can grow these wonderful babies, anyone can.

Why not try some seeds? I can practically guarantee you will soon have fabulous seedlings too.

All images © Helen Poirier Email: helenpoirier@gmail.com

Seedling of ‘Ruby’

Seedling of ‘Blue Dancer’

Seedling from a batch of C. koreanaseed Seedling of ‘Hanajima’

Seedling of’ ‘Joe Zary’ Clematisochroleuca

Viorna Group Seed

Germination – Soaking and Peeling

Carol Lim USA

IIhave spent considerable time researching the efficacy of soaking and then peeling away the outer shells of seeds of the Viorna Group, in pursuit of improved germination; by trial and error this has resulted in a practical general method.

Some growers soak the seeds for periods of hours only; however, I prefer to soak them for a good two to three days, changing the water several times along the way. Once the seeds have been thoroughly soaked, I peel off the outer layer to expose only the embryo – the part of the seed that actually germinates. To do this I use fingernails and with a little practice it is not too difficult a process. Others use a razor blade or small cutting tool but I don‟t take the risk of cutting myself with sharp blades.

Other clematis seed raisers have commented on using vermiculite or perlite to help germinate the seeds, in „baggies‟ (small plastic bags). I use moist absorbent paper towels, placed inside baggies, instead. The paper towel is never soaking wet, only „just moist‟. I keep the seeds at about room temperature, 60 -70°F (1521°C) and wait for the radicle (the part of a plant embryo that develops into a young root) to emerge. Normally one can expect this to happen in about 30-60 days. I check the paper towel every few days to make sure it is neither too wet nor too dry. After the radicle has emerged, the seeds are sowed directly on to the top of a soilless compost mix (left) and the pot is then placed inside a ziplock plastic bag, under lights or on a window sill.

When the seed coat is removed in this way there is a lot less potential for rotting and the radicle will quickly notice the pull of gravity and quickly begin to extend and grow downwards into the soil. Just a few weeks on from this point the seedlings rapidly move on and begin to produce vigorous aerial growth.

The Clematis 2011

I have now grown seedlings of most of the Viorna Group species and I can confirm that by sowing the seeds in pots in the traditional manner and letting nature take its course outdoors, or in an unheated porch, means a wait of a year or more, before aerial sprouts appear! When seeds are sowed directly into medium in pots, actual germination occurs underground and is completely hidden However, soaking and peeling of seeds by this method allows one to view the stepwise process of germination and to monitor the seeds and their growth. The only drawback is that seedlings raised indoors require a little more care and management to keep them in good condition, before they can be hardened-off, for moving outside. A friend from the Chicago area, Mike Miller, pots up one germinated seed per pot whereas I place several seeds in each pot – due to space restrictions and limited windowsill space. That means I later have to thin out and transplant seedlings, whereas Mike, of course, does not need to do this.

It would be interesting to undertake separate trials with „soaked‟ seeds versus „soaked and peeled‟ seeds. All seeds would have to be from the same batch so that valid comparisons of germination rates and times might be made.

From what I've seen and learned about germinating Viorna Group species, not one single type actually needs cold or other stratification treatment in order to cause germination to occur; the paper towel method simply shortens the time needed to get seeds up and beyond these earliest stages, so they can be planted outdoors that much sooner

A further benefit is that on peeling the seed coat one can often immediately ascertain whether or not the seed is viable. Sometimes, once the coat is off, nothing is found within, that is, the seed was actually hollow inside. Other times, non-viable, blackened embryos, which crumble easily when exposed to the air, are revealed. Also, weevil or other insect damage is sometimes evident – typically they enter the seed by drilling small holes in the shell.

As seeds progress (once in the pots) I open the ziplock bags from time to time, to change the air, then close them back up again. The soil should never get more than just moist, so it is important to keep monitoring – the weight of a pot is a good indicator of the moisture content of the mix. Outdoors, the plants would normally be subject to air currents and this plays a role in stimulating natural growth. Inside the bags, the plants don't receive such stimulation, so I try not to keep them enclosed any longer than absolutely necessary.

I have not tried the seed of other clematis groups, for example, Atragenes, Viticella Group etc, however, Mike Miller has found that the peeling method works only poorly, or sometimes not at all, with other types. Finally, some groups will still always require periods of cold exposure, in order to obtain good rates of germination.

H

YBRIDISING NEW CLEMATIS –

SIMPLIFICATIONS FOR AMATEURS

WHICH STILL GIVE ENTHRALLING RESULTS

Brian Collingwood UK

Youtoocansuccessfullyraiseuniqueclematiswithnovelflowerformsandbethefirstto seethenewflowers.Trythissimplifiedmethodandreapanextremelyexcitingseed harvestnextseason.Yes,you,fellowamateur,canbreaknewgroundinclematisbreeding.

DDoubtless, many amateurs would very much like to experience the thrilling process of the opening of the first novel flowers of a totally new plant, but are put off by the imagined complexity of the hybridisation process. „Surely that would involve painstaking preparation or technical knowledge and a lot of ongoing work, for which yet more time must be found?‟ Well, not necessarily…

Why would one want to hybridise new clematis plants anyway? There are hundreds of proven cultivars and species galore to explore already and this is plenty to be going on with? Yes indeed – however, there is always some magic in seeing the first flowers of a new plant open, and, if you have hybridised the plant yourself, the thrill is ten times as much, because they are your own brand new, unique blooms! No-one else has done this before!

Who knows what could arise? There is almost unlimited scope in the plants that can be crossed – in clematis we have not even scratched the surface of the possibilities as yet. The mind boggles at the potential combinations that are just waiting to be tried. And who will carry out these explorations? Most likely, in the main, you and I, the amateur enthusiasts. With very few exceptions, most professional horticulturalists just do not have the time or the inclination.

Is there a simple way to do it?

Why create new plants?

LFH= large-flowered hybrid Stamen=filament,anther,connective Anthersbearthepollen.Pistil=ovary,style, stigma.Stigmasreceivethepollen.

My goal in this article is to convince the reader that he or she can succeed in raising their own unique clematis plants and that it is not something only an „expert‟ can do. In this piece I am mainly concentrating on larger-flowered clematis as the starting point, (although similar principles could also apply to, say, the Meclatis Group, the Atragenes,

Seed is forming: the sight of successful seed development is the first major thrill

Montanas and others – but that‟s another story). The large flowers are easy to handle and manipulate, especially if you are new to this. I am definitely not suggesting that people set out to produce and register hundreds of cultivars that are similar to what‟s already out there! It is about whether the amateur breeder can produce plants with novel flowers of new, intermediate form and how he or she might go about it, rather than concentrating solely on raising new large-flowered hybrids. Not that there is anything wrong with raising such new plants. They are certainly an excellent way to start and the results are always ultra fascinating and exciting. But there are other possibilities and this rarely encroaches into the domain of the expert.

As mentioned above, there are already many existing cultivars and species for the gardener to cultivate. Since breeders have been at work for many years, surely by now all the possible crosses have been tried? Is there really any scope for new crosses? The answer is definitely „yes‟. In fact, there is an entire universe just waiting to be explored. What has been done to-date is little in comparison with the huge possibilities, and the vast majority of potential crosses have not even been considered yet, let alone tried out.

Breeding activity in general tends to go on at a low but steady level, interspersed with bursts of more significant activity. This is usually because a particular person or persons have decided to set off on a project at some given point in time, or just happened at some given moment to have had certain plants in their possession, that could be crossed together. However, looking at the last hundred years, it is reasonable to state that the

majority of global hybridising activity in the realm of largeflowered plants has been concerned with crosses involving C. viticella, C. florida, C. lanuginosa and C. patens with some contributions from a very few other species.

Over the years other, „more exotic‟ plants have arisen here and there and been carried forward into the mélange of the current range of available

No pollen visible plants, eg, some crosses of species, double viticellas, some viticella-integrifolia crosses and others: some being inherited from antiquity or by being found as chance seedlings because the finder just happened to have compatible plants growing and flowering near to one another. Many „old‟ cultivars‟ genetic make-up still remains uncertain; the exact parentage is still open to conjecture. There are also some „sports‟ of large-flowered hybrids in the mix of current cultivars.

Difficulties and simplifications

The main bugbears with hybridising are the time taken to prepare the future seed-bearing flower, followed by ensuring that the flower is kept in good condition throughout the time period needed to effect pollination. This isn‟t a difficult process as such – in fact, with practice, it becomes just another routine; however, if

Pollen visible

The first date

Don’t forget to label them

one is unfamiliar with the process one does have to be careful because it is easy to lose the seed-bearing flower to rot or other mishap. Are there work-arounds or just simplifications that would suffice for the amateur? Can parts of the process be modified, without compromising the chances of success? Let us firstly recap on the key elements of the hybridisation process usually employed. In the context of this article „hybridisation‟ means the production of seed from one plant (hybrid or species clematis) by deliberately pollinating one of its flowers with the pollen of another different clematis plant, to bring about fertilisation: this is a „deliberate cross‟ . Combining parents in this way results in genetic change. The resultant seeds are then germinated and the plants raised to the flowering stage, so that the form of the ensuing flowers can be seen Flower formation and opening can be a very exciting period indeed and you will be thrilled with your results, every time. The cycle never varies: pollination, seed formation, germination, growth, flowers.

The standard method

It is logical and important to try to ensure efficiency of fertilisation and certainty of parentage of any plants raised, hence the system of „isolation‟ arises – I will come back to this shortly. Also we want to carry out the process using a standard method; this means that we can reproduce it at will and be confident that it will produce good results every time. The exact practical details can be honed to some extent as you become more

The Clematis 2011

familiar with the procedure – as with lots of things in life, we learn by doing doing it. We want to move pollen from the anthers of one specific plant onto the stigmas of another particular plant. No third parties!! In order to ensure that we get the precise cross we want, we need to prevent the seedbearing flower from fertilising itself, and in addition we wish to ensure that no „foreign‟ pollen is brought in from outside sources, for example, by insects visiting the flower, after they have already visited other clematis plants‟ flowers growing in the vicinity! This is where „isolation‟ of the flower, and much of the time and effort, usually comes in. The future seed-bearing flower is usually emasculated – that is, the sepals are removed just before the flower would ordinarily have opened – and the stamens of the seed-parent are quickly and carefully removed using sharp scissors or the like. Clearly, this must be done before any pollen is released from the anthers, otherwise selffertilisation could occur. Dehiscence is the opening, at maturity, of a plant structure, such as a fruit, anther, or sporangium, to release its contents.

The Clematis 2011

We must intervene before the anthers of the seed-bearing flower begin to dehisce and shed their pollen

Once the stamens have been removed, this leaves the female parts of the flower only – the pistils. The whole remaining parts of the flower (plus a short length of flower stem) are now usually enclosed within a bag of some kind. The purpose is to prevent pollens from outside sources being brought in during the time that elapses before the pollen from the second plant is introduced onto the waiting stigmas. Once pollination has been carried out, the pistils are maintained in isolation for a further period, until the chemistry of fertilisation has occurred within the female reproductive organs. The isolation bag is now removed and the flower is left to undergo the remainder of the natural seed formation and development cycle. The styles slowly extend outwards and may become hairy, and, within the transforming central mass, the achenes, each one possessing an exciting novel genetic mixture, gradually develop. [An achene is a type of simple dry fruit produced by many species of flowering plants. Achenes are monocarpellate (formed from one carpel) and indehiscent (they do not open at maturity). Achenes contain a single seed that nearly fills the pericarp, but does not adhere to it. In many species, what we think of as the „seed‟ is actually an achene, a fruit containing the seed. The seed-like appearance arises from the fact that the wall of the seedvessel hardens and encloses the solitary seed so closely as to seem like an outer coat.]

Once the seeds reach maturity they can be taken away from the flower in the normal way and should then be potted up for germination, as soon as possible. You can do this either in pots by the „traditional‟ method, or in vermiculite.

Simplifications

I am not advocating inaccurate work or poor record-keeping. Heaven forbid! However, in the province of the amateur, is there a feasible and acceptable decrease in exactness that can still produce the desired result? Can we be less precise about it all and still make it work without it needing quite so much care, attention and time? A basis of ‘sufficiently effective for the average amateur enthusiast to produce the desired result’ in the greenhouse, or even in the garden? Yes, of course. It‟s obvious, but we have to try things out to see if they work, after which we begin to gain confidence in the process. Remember, the main „work‟ was in keeping the seed bearer isolated through the stages of emasculation, fertilisation and post-fertilisation until the time the bag is generally removed and the flower can get on with transforming itself into a seedhead. Let‟s look at this aspect. Taking a typical potted clematis plant in the average smaller greenhouse: the normal sequence of opening. Before anthesis, the sepals of the bud are held tightly together but in due course they reach a certain point of readiness and then a biological trigger is pulled: they slowly begin to peel away from each other. They gradually fall back through 90° and flatten out into the plane, at the same time unfurling and expanding into their final form. The stamens, at first packed intimately around the styles, soon begin to gradually expand or dilate into upright form and once deployed fully begin then to fall back towards the sepals, to assume their mature positions. At some point during this stage they begin to dehisce and pollen is released. It soon becomes easily visible to the naked eye and with a hand lens the individual grains can be seen to be present in profuse quantity; the plethora of pollen grains produced is enormous in comparison with the number of ovaries needing to be fertilised. The stigmas soon become receptive to pollen and some grains find their way onto the waiting receptive female parts. The pollen grain undergoes physical fusion with the outer layer of cells in the stigma and the genetic material (the DNA and other constituents) of the invading pollen achieves „injection‟ into the body of the stigma. This material is slowly moved through the length of the style toward the ovary, which waits patiently for the fun, at the base. Union of the gametes (a gamete is a cell that fuses with another cell during fertilization in organisms that reproduce sexually) takes place and then the ovary immediately begins to transform itself into an achene, encapsulating the novel mix of genetic material within each cell of the embryo of the developing seed. It is the expression of the genes comprising this DNA (the genome of the plant – the genome of an organism is a blueprint of how all of its genes are put together. Each gene of each chromosome controls different aspects of how the organism grows and develops. Slight changes in these instructions give rise to different varieties) that will ultimately determine the physical characteristics (including the flowers) of the plant arising from each seed.

Once the flower is open, the insects can begin to visit. You still have to be quite nippy about it, but in a greenhouse situation you are completely aware of the stages of flower opening and you can beat the vast majority of insects to the bloom. Of course, windows in greenhouses allow flying insects some access but greenhouse plants are still relatively isolated from the outside world, over short time spells. Let‟s assume that you are deliberately not growing this particular plant in the company of ten or twenty other

plants, all flowering at the same time! If you can act in rapid fashion, you have two choices: 1. Take up your hand lens and, prior to the anthers beginning to dehisce, ensure that an overwhelming delivery of pollen is made to the waiting stigmas, from your chosen pollen parent; or, better, 2. immediately run round the skirt of maturing stamens with a razor blade or scalpel, or employ fine-pointed sharp scissors and remove them, before the anthers get a chance to dehisce any pollen at all, or at worst, restrict this to the absolute minimum possible. Then come back to the flower and, as previous, ensure an overwhelming delivery of pollen is made to the stigmas. It‟s as simple as that. There is an element of luck involved with the timing, in terms of receptivity of the stigmas but it is just a matter of observation and trial and error to refine it.

The stalks of the individual flowers now need marking in some way, so that, three months down the line, you can still see exactly which ones have been pollinated. Write the date and details on a wrap-around marker label (see photo above) and make sure it is put securely in place, then allow the flower to continue its natural seed development process. Soon, the achenes begin to form and before too long the seedhead begins to take on that familiar clematis look.

It‟s only a series of small adaptions to transfer this from the greenhouse situation to the open garden.

Worst case scenario

Clearly the above involves very little effort and is simple to perform. What might be the outcome? The average LFH seedhead consists of around twenty-five or thirty or so seeds, let‟s assume for the sake of the argument, just twenty-five; so,

The Clematis 2011

only four seedheads are needed to produce about 100 seeds in total. Let‟s us say that you have a bad day and only achieve a successful pollination proportion of 25% and that 75% of all the seeds collected actually go on to germinate.

100 stigmas pollinated; 25% success rate = 25 „hybridised‟ ovaries 100 seeds produced, 75% germination rate = 75 seedlings in total

Let‟s assume that the seeds produced are all just as likely to germinate and that they all germinate at the same time (glee!)

75 seedlings, of which 25% are the plants we are looking for. 25% of 75 = 19 plants 19 plants as a proportion of 75 is about one in four

So, we have a batch of new seedlings, of which one in four have the results of the cross of the two parents incorporated into them. Bear in mind, growing any new clematis plants is exciting enough in itself, when they come to flower – but this way you also get the terrific additional thrill of being able to pick out from among them, as they come along, the rare jewels. Lucky you!

When you set about actually doing your crosses, you are likely to be armed with more than one solo pollen-bearing flower at any given time, so it would probably be unlikely that you would confine your efforts to only four flowers – more likely, on the day, you will try a good number more! Even if they don‟t all survive to maturity you may well actually end up with a good deal more seed than you can sow all in one go, without overdoing it. But you can stagger sowings; or of course you can always give some to fellow enthusiasts. Seed will usually keep for at least a couple of years and still retain high germination rates and for some time longer if stored carefully.

In the greenhouse

Now imagine the situation in the greenhouse. It is spring and you suddenly have a batch of new seedlings, all potted up individually. (The numbers are all relative of course. Scale it to the number of seedlings you feel will be comfortable for you to manage. Ten new plants = easy. Twenty five new plants: still ok. Fifty new plants: a bit more of a challenge.) You are able to watch the new plants slowly progress through the initial stages. You will be absolutely fascinated by the differences in the seedlings‟ relative size, rate of growth, foliage shape and colour. It might sound a bit far-fetched, but because you check the baby plants very closely every day, especially if you have smaller numbers, you get to recognise their individual physical appearances. It is like a little family – very interesting to note the differences. As the seedlings progress, things look fairly standard but as time goes by you begin to notice that here and there some of the seedlings are perhaps slightly different, although you may not be able to put your finger on it yet. It might be the rate of growth of the shoots, or, more likely, the form or colour of the foliage. As the season goes along you soon prune the young plants and when they come

back strongly you begin to tie the extending shoots onto stakes, in the pot. To make seedlings easy to manage, you restrict the number of vines on each new seedling to just two. Development continues on through the following months and in due course you find yourself beginning to speculate about some of the plants, as you observe every phase of their progress.

The anticipation begins to build. The plants count the waxing and the waning of hours of daylight just as accurately as you or I and as the end of the first season approaches, the rate of growth slows down and they prepare themselves for the oncoming winter cold period, mostly now beginning to gradually shed their fading foliage. Some of the vines die back. But don‟t be fooled! They may just be babies but they already have all the knowledge they will ever need. Not only does a seedling know exactly how a long a rest it will have over the winter, it also knows exactly when to prepare the new buds, when to break these buds open and when to begin producing new shoots and foliage. The seedling‟s clock senses accurately, to the day, when the time is just right for it to commit to all-out extension growth as the new season dawns.

Spring is around the corner. Between Christmas and February you have repotted the plants into fresh medium and as the New Year arrives, buds become visible on some of the old vines, or appear at the base of the plants, in readiness for the oncoming spring. Though still only small plants, the hidden roots have by now developed significantly in relative extent and the size, volume and „green vitality‟ of some of the new buds, even on the most diminutive of the seedlings, is truly surprising and will often astound you.

Now the excitement really begins, since the majority of these plants will flower for the first time, soon. The first biological trigger point arrives and the plants set off into slow growth again and then after a certain period of time a day-length threshold is passed and growth accelerates somewhat. The plants are soon producing vigorous new shoots, which are gradually tied onto fresh 18” stakes. At mid-March (UK) the growth rate suddenly increases markedly once again and as the vines begin to extend more quickly the beautiful foliage soon begins to amass. Then, at a given moment, you see that flower buds have started to form! The secret is about to be revealed and the anticipation is incredible. Within weeks, beautiful flowers are beginning to open here and there and

The Clematis 2011

then…what is this? Incredible! You see that you have succeeded in producing something brand new and exciting – flowers of intermediate form!

Suggestions for plants you might cross

Many clematis are incompatible – they will not cross successfully because they arise from different evolutionary family lines – but there are very many that will fit together, as key to lock. Below are some suggested plants from which you can expect a success rate and very, very exciting results: I have to give a disclaimer: obviously I have only seen the results of a modest number of these crosses. I can‟t definitely state that all of them will

Seed Parent Pollen parent

Clematis patens, any form

C. patens comes in several forms and many hybrids

Large-flowered hybrid –there are hundreds you could use, single/double

Clematis florida and hybrids thereof

Clematis viticella species ×

viticella hybrids – most

There are a great many to choose from ×

C texensis, viorna, versicolor, reticulata, pitcheri, morefieldii, crispa, fusca, ianthina, integrifolia, fremontii, ochroleuca, coactilis, albicoma, baldwinii, hirsutissima and any Viorna Group hybrids raised from seed

C. texensis, viorna, versicolor, reticulata, pitcheri, morefieldii, crispa, fusca, ianthina, integrifolia, fremontii, ochroleuca, coactilis, albicoma, baldwinii, hirsutissima and any Viorna Group hybrids raised from seed

C. texensis, viorna, versicolor, reticulata, pitcheri, morefieldii, crispa, fusca, ianthina, integrifolia, fremontii, ochroleuca, coactilis, albicoma, baldwinii, hirsutissima and any Viorna Group hybrids raised from seed

C texensis, viorna, versicolor, reticulata, pitcheri, morefieldii, crispa, fusca, ianthina, integrifolia, fremontii, ochroleuca, coactilis, albicoma, baldwinii, hirsutissima and any Viorna Group hybrids raised from seed

C. texensis, viorna, versicolor, reticulata, pitcheri, morefieldii, crispa, fusca, ianthina, integrifolia, fremontii, ochroleuca, coactilis, albicoma, baldwinii, hirsutissima and any Viorna Group hybrids raised from seed patens, florida, LFH, viticella × Clematis campaniflora

Clematis campaniflora

Clematis integrifolia and hybrids

× C. texensis, viorna, versicolor, reticulata, pitcheri, morefieldii, crispa, fusca, ianthina, integrifolia, fremontii, ochroleuca, coactilis, albicoma, baldwinii, hirsutissima and any Viorna Group hybrids raised from seed

There is a large number to choose from ×

C texensis, viorna, versicolor, reticulata, pitcheri, morefieldii, crispa, fusca, ianthina, integrifolia, fremontii, ochroleuca, coactilis, albicoma, baldwinii, hirsutissima and any Viorna Group hybrids raised from seed

work. But the basic genetic fit is right for them to produce viable seeds. Of course, many of these crosses could also be done „the other way round‟ by reversing the seed and

pollen parents. The possibilities are almost limitless. A hundred years from now, many of these crosses will still be waiting to be tried. Who knows, with the right encouragement your grandchildren may try some of them? Clearly, the number of potential crosses is almost innumerable. That gives every amateur genuine scope to produce unique blooms that have never been seen before. It is almost asking to be done. If you or I lived to be 200 years old we could still only see a small fraction of the possible combinations.

Sourcing plants for crossing

You can check the specialist nursery catalogues and see which of the Viorna Group are available; or you can contact the BCS seed exchange and grow them yourself from seed. Don‟t be at all worried about whether you get the 100% true species plant. It is the flower form – the „urn‟ – that you are after, along with colour. If you attend BCS meetings and events, seedlings are sometimes available: generous seed-raisers often bring seedlings or plants along, to be sold, donating the proceeds to boost BCS funds. You can check what‟s happening on various clematis web forums, and write or email the contributors. Most clematis people I‟ve met are only too willing to assist other clematis enthusiasts with seed or plants if they have spares available. You can do one hundred and one things in order to track plants down, if you are determined. You can even have friends send pollen or carefully dried stamens in the post!

Conclusion

It involves limited, simple work and there is a broad choice of parents. You have a very good chance of success, so long as you are reasonably organised. Any determined amateur can succeed. No technical expertise is needed, over and above that of raising new plants from seed generally. The excitement of „what you might get‟ is overwhelming when the flowers begin to form. You will never know what you are going to get until the flower is at an advanced stage or indeed until it opens. The anticipation and thrill of the new flowers, every one of them, is something completely special. When a novel flower form arises, the exhilaration is breathtaking. They say „one day you are planting the grapes, the next day you are sipping the wine‟.

Experiments with C. viticella and Tissue Culture

Mike Miller USA

ne of the problems with making wide crosses within a plant genus is that sometimes the embryo does not develop properly within the seed. With the right tools, however, embryos or seeds themselves can be tissue cultured in vitro early on in the seed's development as a way to provide the right set of conditions so that the embryo can develop properly. Tissue culture refers to the growth of tissues (in this case plant tissues) outside of the organism. This takes place in vitro, or inside a sterile test tube on a liquid or gel medium that provides nutrients.

Before this experiment I had attempted tissue culturing clematis seeds but hadn't found the best way to keep them sterile in the test tube. So before I explored the more complicated embryo rescue of wide crosses I decided to design an experiment to help determine the best sterilization method for clematis seeds before being placed in vitro. In addition, I wondered if germinating these seeds in vitro would yield faster germination times.

Seeds placed on sterile medium in test tubes need themselves to be sterile, otherwise fungi, bacteria and viruses will grow on the medium at a faster rate than the seeds and kill them. I have a lot of trouble with fungal diseases on seeds in my garden, where autumns tend to be rather warm and continually damp. I have no problem getting Viorna Group seeds to germinate quickly – by removing their seed coats, soaking the remaining embryo until it is fully imbibed, disinfecting them and placing them in sealable bags of moist vermiculite. But Viticella Group seeds take so much longer. So the experiment I designed involved C. viticella seeds and would serve four purposes.

PURPOSES

1. To determine if removing the seed coat speeds up the germination process

2. To determine if tissue cultured seeds germinate faster than seeds placed in moist vermiculite in zip bags.

3. To determine if soaking the seeds in water to fully imbibe the embryo affects their germination time or their chances of endogenous contamination in vitro (contamination coming from agents within the seed, like fungal spores)

4. To determine the best seed sterilization method prior to putting them in vitro:

 bleach + sterile rinse

 bleach + H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) rinse

 PPM, or Plant Preservative Mixture, a proprietary biocide/fungicide for plant tissue culture (see www.ppm4plant-tc.com)

GERMINATION/STERILIZATION PROTOCOLS TESTED

I divided the seeds into different protocols, each protocol using 8 seeds:

The

Clematis 2011

GROUPS A1, A2, A3 and A4 were sterilized in 10% bleach (NaClO = Sodium Hypochlorite) solution for 30 minutes, then rinsed in a sterile H2O solution for 5 minutes. Two of these groups had their seed coats removed, two did not. Two were soaked for 4 hours in sterile water to fully imbibe them before sterilization, two were not (see Table 1 at bottom). These were placed in vitro.

GROUPS B1, B2, B3 and B4 were sterilized in a 10% bleach solution for 30 minutes, then rinsed in a 3% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution for 5 minutes. The H2O2 breaks down after exposure to light into water and oxygen and is sometimes a safer rinse than sterile water in amateur situations (like my kitchen). Again, two of these groups had their seed coats removed, two did not. Two were soaked for 4 hours in sterile water to fully imbibe them before sterilization, two were not (see Table 1). These were placed in vitro.

GROUPS C1 and C2 were both sterilized following the PPM manufacturer's guidelines. They were both soaked for 4 hours in a solution of 4% PPM mixed with the medium they would be tissue cultured in, called Murashige and Skoog (MS). This also had the effect of fully imbibing them. One group had their seed coats removed, the other did not (see Table 1). These were placed in vitro.

GROUPS D1, D2, D3 and D4 were sterilized in a 10% bleach (NaClO) solution for 30 minutes, then rinsed in a sterile H2O solution for 5 minutes. Two of these groups had their seed coats removed, two did not. Two were soaked for 4 hours in sterile water to fully imbibe them before sterilisation; two were not (see Table 1). These were placed in zip bags with moist vermiculite.

METHODS

Each protocol used 8 C. viticella seeds that were collected from the plant in my garden in the last week of December, 2010 and kept dry inside for two weeks. That means they were exposed to 40°F/4°C temperatures for 3 - 4 weeks and below freezing temperatures for 3 - 4 additional weeks.

All equipment was autoclaved to sterilize and standard sterile technique employed. There are many websites where home enthusiasts can purchase and learn about „kitchen‟ tissue culturing and I'd developed some good techniques in the months leading up to the experiment.

The medium the seeds were cultured on was Murashige and Skoog + sucrose at 10g/l.

The experiment started on January 2, 2010. After approximately 6 weeks of being kept at 70°F/20°C, all the seeds were put in the refrigerator on February 17, 2010 and kept at 40°F/4°C for approximately 7 weeks. On April 6, 2010 I brought them back out to 70°F/20°C and kept them there until the summer of 2011 when all the seeds had rotted, germinated or stagnated (alive and sterile in vitro but not germinated yet).

January 2, 2010

Seeds placed in germination media

February 17, 2010 April 6, 2010 July, 2011

After 6 weeks of warm, seeds refrigerated

After 7 weeks of cold, seeds back to warm

After a year and a half, experiment ends

Note that although from April of 2010 to July of 2011 the seeds experienced only „room temperature‟. Such temperature naturally fluctuated with the weather's effect on my basement's climate.

Once the seeds were in bags of vermiculite, I kept the moisture constant in the bags at a „just barely moist‟ level.

OBSERVATIONS

Most of the seeds with pericarps intact in test tubes rotted within the first 3 weeks. These hard covers make it difficult for disinfecting solutions to get at foreign agents underneath. Only 1 of the seeds in vitro developed normally; the remainder that did germinate formed odd roots and stopped developing, or strange cotyledons and froze similarly at that stage. Quite a number remain sterile in test tubes, but show no signs of germination.

CONCLUSIONS

1. Did removing the pericarps yield faster germinations?

Yes. Given that so few of the tissue cultured seeds germinated, I looked only at the seeds sown in vermiculite. Whether soaked in water before or not, removing the seed coats yielded faster germination times than those seeds with pericarps still intact (see Table 2). Table 2

The

2. Did tissue cultured seeds germinate faster than seeds placed in moist vermiculite in zip bags?

No. Besides the fact that many of the seeds in vitro succumbed to endogenous contamination, those that didn't showed poor germinations. Some seeds are still sterile in vitro and showing no signs of activity. Others demonstrated strange germination patterns (oddly shaped roots, cotyledons misshapen, growth arrested after root development). Only one grew normally in vitro and was able to be hardened off in soil. I chose a widely used medium (Murishage & Skoog) and these results imply that it does not provide conditions that were right for these seeds. The high salt content of the medium can contribute to high osmotic pressure in the seeds which could inhibit germination. A half strength MS medium might be tried, as well as lowering the sucrose content.

3. Did soaking the seeds in water to fully imbibe the embryo affect their germination time or their chances of endogenous contamination invitro?

For the seeds in vermiculite, soaking them first seemed to allow the root to germinate a bit faster, but ultimately the appearance of the cotyledons was not affected (see Tables 2 & 3). For seeds in test tubes, it could not be determined. My guess is that removing the pericarp and sterilizing the embryo is a more important factor than pre-soaking the seed.

Table 3

D1 = no soak w/coat, D2 = no soak naked D3 = soak w/coat, D4 = soak naked Date of root germination days since sown/days after removal from cold Date of shoot emergence days since sown/days after removal from cold

D1.1 Jun. 19, 2010 168 Jul. 24, 2010 203

D1.2 Nov. 23, 2010 325 Apr. 11, 2011 464

D1.3 Dec. 16, 2010 348 May 21, 2011 504

D1.4 Jan. 4, 2011 367 Jul. 21, 2011 565

D1.5 Jan. 4, 2011 367 Apr. 11, 2011 464

D1.6 Jan. 4, 2011 367 Apr. 11, 2011 464

D1.7 Jan. 4, 2011 367 May 7, 2011 489

D1.8 Jan. 22, 2011 385 Jul. 11, 2011 555

D2.1 Jun. 14, 2010 163 Jul. 20, 2010 199

D2.2 Jun. 14, 2010 163 April 30, 2011 483

D2.3 Jul. 14, 2010 193 Jul. 25, 2011 569

D2.4 Jul. 14, 2010 193 Oct. 28, 2010 299

D2.5 Sept. 15, 2010 256 Sept. 25, 2010 266

D2.6 Sept. 15, 2010 256 Oct. 2, 2010 273

D2.7 Sept. 24, 2010 265 Oct. 28, 2010 299

D2.8 Sept. 24, 2010 265 Oct. 28, 2010 299

D3.1 Jul. 24, 2010 203 Sept. 18, 2010 259

D3.2 Aug. 27, 2010 237 Sept. 18, 2010 259

D3.3 Sept. 24, 2010 263 Jul. 11, 2011 555

D3.4 Sept. 24, 2010 263 Nov. 18, 2010 320

D3.5 Nov. 23, 2010 325 March 13, 2011 435

D3.6 Dec. 16, 2010 348 Jan. 23, 2011 386

D3.7 Jan. 4, 2011 367 May 21, 2011 504

D3.8 Jan. 15. 2011 378 Feb. 21, 2011 415

D4.1 Jul. 7, 2010 186 Jul. 20, 2010 199

D4.2 Jul. 24, 2010 203 Jul. 25, 2011 569

D4.3 Aug. 27, 2010 233 Nov. 18, 2010 320

D4.3 Oct. 15, 2010 286 Nov. 23, 2010 325

D4.5 Oct. 15, 2010 286 Dec. 4, 2010 336

D4.6 Oct. 30, 2010 301 Nov. 18, 2010 320

D4.7 Oct. 30, 2010 301 Nov. 18, 2010 320

D4.8 Dec. 16, 2010 348 Jan. 23, 2011 386

The Clematis 2011

4. What was the best seed sterilization method for viticella seeds prior to putting them invitro?

All of the seeds with pericarps removed and disinfected with the PPM protocol (Group C2) remained sterile until the end of the experiment. In the other protocols (bleach + sterile H2O or bleach + H2O2) neither was as important as the removal of the pericarp in keeping them sterile.

DISCUSSION

The total number of seeds here was very small, but shows that seeds sterilized and put in vermiculite are certainly going to have a better chance of germinating than using this particular tissue culture medium at this strength. I did learn that removing the seed coat allows for a better chance of the sterilization protocol to work, and that if putting the seeds in test tubes, I would also try the PPM solution as a starting point.

Table 1

The Clematis 2011

The Clematis 2011

*Tissue Culture or Vermiculite

Germination of C. viticella in the test-tube

Montana Seedlings Growing Up at „By The Way‟

Val Le May Neville-Parry UK

n 2008 I wrote about the baby boom of Montana seedlings found in my garden. That seems so long ago! Some seedlings have been kept, others gone to foster homes, a few have died and the remainder consigned to the compost heap.

Over the last three years it has given me such pleasure watching them growing to maturity. They have come with pink, white and no flowers and perfume of varying strengths and „flavours‟. Many clearly have Clematis chrysocoma in their parentage – a totally different leaf shape and texture. One – probably the best of all – has been named by my good friend, Sal Armstrong. Sal has come armed with trays of cakes and biscuits to delight my garden visitors several times each spring. Her 35 year old sister in law died of cancer last year, leaving behind a husband and four young children. Sal has chosen her nickname, Tiny Moll, as a tribute and living memorial for Moll‟s husband and children and Sal and Nick, to grow in their gardens.

„Tiny Moll‟ was found in the gravel in the spring of 2009 and had three bright pink, heavily fragrant flowers in 2010 and literally thousands of flowers this year. As I write at the end of August 2011, my plant is covered with a mass of beautiful seed heads, each sporting deep red styles which have provided interest throughout the summer and, hopefully, into the autumn months. Being a young plant, it has been very easy to strike cuttings. I was able to give Sal a pot of rooted cuttings for her 60th birthday in August,

(proposed name) ‘Tiny Moll’ flowers and bud, May 2011

The Clematis 2011

the cuttings having been taken only three weeks earlier. A wonderful plant which, if it meets the three criteria of disease free, significantly different and stable over a three year period, I hope to register in the next year or two. I‟ll keep you informed as to progress!

(proposed name) ‘Tiny Moll’ – seedheads

We have selected two seedlings to name for my friend Maureen Darling and her daughter, Jane. Maureen was with us when my Chris died. Otherwise known as the „Pooh Fairy‟ (she sometimes picks up after Peter Donkey and Juniper Horse!), Maureen chose a deliciously scented pale pink seedling. It now resides in her Lover garden, sporting a „Little Mo‟ label. Maureen‟s daughter, Jane, sometimes helps me in the garden. We chose a beautifully scented white seedling. „Just Jane‟ is waiting for a big hole to be dug in her garden. I have many other seedlings still in the ground and in pots. They all need good homes – if you would like one, please let me know.

(proposed name) ‘Little Mo’ flower and foliage – May 2011

Other news from ‘By The Way’

As you can imagine, with over 200 plants in the Montana Group, their seed heads are a major feature in my garden throughout late summer and autumn. Last year many varieties and cultivars retained their seed heads throughout the bitter winter – perhaps because winter came so suddenly. They added greatly to the frosted fairytale spectacle. I have found „Miss Christine‟ to be particularly good at holding on to her „show‟. She is smothered with „heads‟ at the moment. No sign of fluffing up and flying off!

‘Miss Christine’ seed heads

‘By The Way’ seed heads

‘By The Way’ flowers and foliage

The Clematis 2011

One of the best of the more refined pink cultivars, „By The Way‟ is also currently sporting a fabulous display of „heads‟. They smother a tiny golden plum tree as I write.

I have previously written that only two of the collection – „Sir Eric Savill‟ and „Continuity‟ - repeat flower. This year two of my three „C. montana var. wilsonii‟ plants have both displayed continuous flushes of flowers from late May to the present time.

In early June I was thrilled to get my first flowers on one of two „Doctor Penelope‟ cultivars – after six years! Not much of a show, but a few very pretty flowers. My two C. montana „Peveril‟ cultivars (planted in 2007) and two C. montana „Alexander‟ cultivars (planted in 2009), have yet to produce flowers. It may be that my soil is not sufficiently fertile for some cultivars. Perhaps I should dig them up and re-plant into large containers? A very good reason for having Charlotte‟s collection!

I have been waiting for something special to be able to name after my Chris. Well, I might just have found something. In autumn 2010 I dug up a seedling growing in the gravel north of the house between pots containing C. heracleifolia „Cassandra‟ and „Eclipse‟. It is now in a big pot, in a south facing but very shady site. It is just starting to flower, about three weeks after „Cassandra‟ (which gets more sun despite being only about 2m away). The deep purply-blue flowers are double the size of „Eclipse‟ – just a bit smaller than C. heracleifolia „Cassandra‟ – and possess the heavenly scent of C. heracleifolia „Cassandra‟. The leaves are lime green, virtually identical to „Eclipse‟. Perhaps the best features of both parents? I am really excited and hope that the flowers will continue to develop and produce a wonderful display. If so, then it is definitely a suitable candidate.

2012 will be the last year I will open our garden. Charlotte Wemyss has established a wonderful collection of the Montana Group species, varieties and cultivars and has recently applied for National Collection status. She has an amazingly fertile, three acre walled garden overlooking the sea at Wemyss. Well worth a visit if you live in the north of the British Isles. If you live down south, please feel welcome to come and see my collection next spring, take cuttings in early summer and/or collect seeds in late summer/ autumn. I have hundreds of other clematis in the garden so any time that suits you and me will do. I love people popping in and usually have home made shortbread and coffee available.

All images Tom Hewett ‘By The Way’, Lodge Drove, Woodfalls, (proposed name) ‘Tiny Moll’ Salisbury SP5 2NH val@lmnp.co.uk

Clematis registered between July 2010 and June 2011

Duncan Donald UK

International Registrar for cultivated plants (including clematis and lilies)

IIaccepted thirty applications for new clematis cultivar names in the second half of 2010 and the first half of 2011. These emanated from seven countries, as follows: Germany 7, New Zealand 6, The Netherlands 5, UK 4, USA 4, Finland 2 and Sweden 2.

Baumschule Sachs have registered seven new Late Large-flowered Group cultivars selected or bred by Lothar Sachs: „Elbflorenz‟ is a „Rosa Königskind‟ hybrid with flowers with 6 pale violet sepals and dark greyish red anthers; „Erika‟, named after Lothar‟s daughter, is a „Kathleen Wheeler‟ hybrid, with 6-8 moderate purple, wavy sepals with a strong reddish purple bar; „Gräfin Cosel‟, another „Kathleen Wheeler‟ hybrid, has 6 strong to vivid purple sepals with a pink-red bar; „Ines Sickert‟, a „Princess of Wales‟ hybrid, has single or semi-double flowers with 6 (to 30+) strong violet sepals with a slightly darker bar; „Little Laura‟, named after Lothar‟s grand-daughter, is a „Mevrouw Le Coultre‟ hybrid with semi-double, bluish white flowers, with a greenish flush at the base maturing to a faint yellow; „Radebeul‟ is a „Bees‟ Jubilee‟ hybrid, with 8-sepalled, bluish white flowers with pale pink midveins; and „Schloß Pillnitz‟ is a „Souvenir du Capitaine Thuilleaux‟ hybrid, with 6-8 pale purple sepals with a whitish bar. All of these should be on sale from the Sachs‟ nursery by 2013.

Happily, Robin Mitchell – now in his mid-eighties and still raising remarkable new clematis – was unhurt by the devastating earthquake and severe aftershocks which hit Christchurch, New Zealand in September 2010 and February 2011.

‘Advent Bells’, a Cirrhosa Group hybrid raised by Roy Nunn Image ©R. Nunn

The Clematis 2011

Meanwhile, he has continued to register six new seedlings. Four are in Montana Group, for which he is best known: „Cherry Blossom‟ has single, creamy white flowers; „Double Star‟ has semi-double flowers with up to 20 sepals, pale pink along the midrib and with deep pink margins; „Pied Piper‟ has semi-double flowers resembling the "gypsy coat of red and yellow" (sepals pale creamy yellow at the centre, shading through a narrow band of very pale pink to a narrow, deep pink margin); and „Sweetie‟ has pale pink flowers. Robin has also registered two Late Large-flowered Group chance seedlings: „Purple Blush‟, with semi-double flowers with up to 12 pale purple sepals, ageing to white, and very small leaves; and „Supernova‟, a double-flowered seedling derived from either „RobloM‟ (formerly known as „Star Burst‟) or „Evipo039‟ DIAMANTINA, with sepals and staminodes varying from deep pink to white.

Wim Snoeijer has registered four new cultivars. Two he defines as being in Patens Group (which, under the classification currently adopted by the ICRA, falls within Early Large-flowered Group): „Zoang‟ ANGELA, raised by van Zoest, with 6-8 strong purplish red sepals, shading to white at the margins; and „Zodasmi‟ DANCING® SMILE, raised by Willem Straver, with purple to pink, double flowers, ball-shaped (like a pompon dahlia). The other two are „Zomisri‟ MISSISSIPPI RIVER (which Wim would place in Diversifolia Group but, under the current ICRA classification, falls within Integrifolia Group), with small flowers with 6 glossy, violet sepals; and „Zoqum‟

QUEEN MOTHER, a Viticella Group hybrid raised by Willem Straver, with nodding, urn-shaped flowers, purple-red and with purple margins inside, purple outside. [In passing, I must apologize to Wim that my report last year inadvertently referred to „Zospi‟ SPIKY as being a Viticella Group cultivar, when I should have said Atragene Group.]

Also from The Netherlands, Ton Hannink has now registered his „Roelie‟, a Viticella Group seedling from „Betty Corning‟, with 4-6 very pale purple sepals strongly marked inside with vivid violet veins; it was named in honour of Roelie van der Meulen, a Dutch clematarian who opens her garden in Zwolle, „Het Hoornwerk‟, to the public (see profile in The Clematis 2007: 46-49). [N.B. This plant should not be confused with the largeflowered hybrid tentatively named "Roelie", illustrated in The Clematis 2007: 48 but not yet validly described or established.]

„Festival‟, raised by Jim Van Laeken of Spring Valley Greenhouse Inc., has 8 bluish purple sepals with a reddish bar.

The Friends of the Rogerson Clematis Collection have registered „Honcho‟, an Integrifolia Group cultivar with 4-sepalled flowers, purple outside with lavender-blue margins, mid-violet with paler margins inside; „Kōzō‟, an Early Large-flowered Group hybrid with 6-8 pale silvery lavender sepals and a bar fading to white, derived from open-pollinated C. patens, selected by – and named after – Kōzō Sugimoto; and „Sixten‟s Gift‟, an Early Large-flowered Group seedling with rounded, candy-floss pink flowers, raised by Sixten Widberg from „Vino‟ × „Poulala‟ ALABAST and sent by Cedergren‟s Nursery to Brewster Rogerson, now named by FRCC in honour of Sixten.

Speaking of Sixten, he has recently registered two clematis introduced commercially several years ago: a further reminder that there is no time limit within which registration must occur and that it is always good to have such records from the people who know

The

Clematis 2011

these plants best. C. „Hanna‟ is a Viticella Group cultivar with 4-sepalled, pale violet-blue flowers with a somewhat mauver bar; it was named after Sixten‟s daughter, HannaLouise. C. „Kjell‟ – like „Sixten‟s Gift‟ – is an Early Large-flowered Group hybrid derived from „Poulala‟ ALABAST × „Vino‟: 8-sepalled, deep bluish purple with a velvety sheen; named after Kjell Bolinder, it was subsequently listed in Westphal‟s catalogue as „Jessica‟, but the raiser‟s preference should be maintained and „Jessica‟ treated as a synonym. Also from Scandinavia, Juhani Räsänen has registered two Large-flowered cultivars (the terms Early and Late can be rather difficult to apply at his latitude!), named after different grand-daughters: „Lyydia‟ has 6-8-sepalled flowers, opening pinkish lilac with a darker bar, maturing to white tinged with pink (except in autumn flowers, which can remain deep pink with a reddish purple bar); and „Saara Emilia‟, derived from „Ivan Olsson‟ × (possibly) „Carnaby‟, has flowers with 6(-7) sepals, opening very pale mauveblue with a white bar, maturing to white.

‘Jean Caldwell’ Image ©R. Hodson

Last but by no means least, four new cultivars were registered in the year concerned by British raisers. „Advent Bells‟, a Cirrhosa Group hybrid raised by Roy Nunn, has flowers pinkish cream with faint stippling outside, cream with irregular red markings inside; it was so named because it first flowered at Advent. Richard Hodson raised „Jean Caldwell‟, a Viticella Group, „Entel‟ seedling with deep pink flowers. „Mrs Mavis Darlington‟, a chance seedling in the Early Largeflowered Group, was selected by Horace Darlington and named after his wife; different flowers on the same plant can be single, semi-double or double, 8-sepalled on single flowers, deep mauve-pink with a white background showing through in the centre. „Our Jean‟, an Early Large-flowered Group hybrid from „The President‟ × „Hagley Hybrid‟, was raised by Charles Welch and named after his late sister, Jean Stead: flowers are usually single and 8-sepalled (though occasionally double on young plants, or amongst otherwise single flowers on mature plants), strong purplish blue with a strong purplish red bar when young.

Finally, I should mention that the present system of classifying clematis is currently under review, with my recommendation being that this should be based on a modified system of Horticultural Divisions – as adopted for many other genera – rather than on what have become extended, often poorly defined and nomenclaturally unsound Cultivar Groups. As with any aspect of cultivar or Group registration, I should be happy to hear from anyone who has views on this they might wish to share.

International Clematis Society 2011

Ken Woolfenden UK

InternationalClematisSociety– 2011 Report

TThe International Clematis Society (I.Cl.S.) has members in more than 25 countries around the world. We hold a meeting each year, changing the country each time to offer every member an opportunity to participate. This year for the first time we had members attending from China, Russia and Turkey.

Unfortunately this year saw the death of Bengt Sundström, Council Member of the International Clematis Society for many years. Bengt will be known to many clematarians as the person who turned Magnus‟s notes into what has become for many the definitive book on clematis, “The Genus Clematis”, both the original Swedish version and subsequently with Mary Toomey an edition in English. Bengt also organised a visit to Sweden in 2007 celebrating the 100 year anniversary of the birth of Magnus Johnson and 300 years of Carl von Linné.

Our meeting in 2011 was centred in Belgium and was a week of garden visits in Belgium and the Netherlands, organised by Horst Weihrauch and Ton Hannink. This was the first time the Society had visited Belgium and we were all most impressed at the quality of gardens, the wide variation in planting styles and the use of clematis in the gardens. Initial impressions could often be deceptive, quite often we would arrive at a relatively ordinary-looking house only to discover, for example, half an acre of exotic planting behind this simple façade.

We had similar treats in the Netherlands, including a wonderful day hosted by Wim Snoeijer and Jan van Zoest Clematis Nursery, culminating in an idyllic canal dinner cruise. Our visit proved that both these countries are much underrated as horticultural destinations.

Our meeting place next year is China, a new destination for the Society. The visit will be challenging as, even with the assistance of the experienced guide, Harry Jans, we must expect the unexpected. But I‟m sure that those who venture forth will be suitably rewarded.

Meetings being planned beyond 2012 are in Germany in 2013, Pennsylvania in 2014 and Great Britain in 2015.

Ken Woolfenden, Editor and Webperson, I.Cl.S. editor@clematisinternational.com www.clematisinternational.com

Remembering our friend Bengt Sundström

Foreword: Brian Collingwood - Editor

IImet Bengt many times, over the years, at BCS and at some IClS meetings. I was very proud when, a few years ago, he visited me in person at my greenhouse; he came to see my plants and growing place. He took one glance inside, smiled, and said „about 400?‟ – I had 440 new clematis plants in the house at the time! I felt honoured to receive him as a guest. We instantly struck up an easy conversation and friendly understanding and from that day I felt he was like a personal acquaintance of many years. When I became Editor of the Journal he did his utmost to assist in anything I asked of him and he provided some great articles over several years. I was very grateful indeed to receive his scripts and overjoyed to be able to publish them Also, he immediately gave me permission to scan lots of material from Magnus' wonderful book, for reproduction in the Journal. We had many interesting discussions about all things Clematis – I will treasure the memories.

From Karin Sundström

Below is the translation of the obituary that was published in the big newspapers in the Stockholm area. The obituary was also published in the local papers in Södertälje and Önrnsköldsvik.

Bengt, Denise and me in my greenhouse, 2007

Bengt Sundström

Associate Professor Bengt Sundström, Bränningestrand, Södertalje, Sweden, has passed away at 68 years of age. He is mourned by his wife Karin and children Anders, Anna and Peter, and the families.

Bengt was born in Örnsköldsvik in 1942. Matriculation from secondary school was followed by studies at Chalmers Institute of Technology in Gothenburg, where he became a Master of Science in technical physics in 1966 and doctor of technology, Ph.D., in solid mechanics in 1974. Bengt made use of advanced computer calculations to analyze the micro-mechanical subjects, a pioneering work in Sweden.

Bengt was appointed associate professor in 1975 in Solid Mechanics at the Royal Institute of Technology (KTH) Stockholm, a position he held until his retirement in 2007. His first task at KTH was to develop new textbooks for the basic courses in keeping with this quickly developing subject area, which resulted in four much appreciated books. Bengt also developed further the handbook Formelsamling i Hållfasthetslära, which has for decades been used in Swedish and Nordic universities and

Bengt and Karin with Peer and Merry Sorensen, Södertälje, June 2008

industry. An English edition Handbook of Solid Mechanics was, thanks to Bengt's efforts, completed shortly before he passed away.

Throughout his time at KTH Bengt was deeply engaged in teaching and pedagogical questions. He was especially appreciated among the students and was named „Teacher of the Year‟ in solid mechanics 2001. He also received awards for outstanding achievements in basic education. Bengt enjoyed great confidence outside KTH and was a term secretary of the Swedish National Committee for Mechanics.

In addition to his profession Bengt had a great interest in gardening, especially in Clematis. Bengt made possible, by serving as editor, the publication of his father in-law Honorary Doctor Magnus Johnson‟s work The Genus Clematis, in Swedish and English versions. Bengt was chairman of the Swedish Clematis Society and on the board of the International Clematis Society.

As a teacher Bengt Sundström possessed a rare competence, engagement and loyalty. We miss him deeply.

From his colleagues at the Department of Solid Mechanics, KTH, Professors Per-Lennart Larsson, Sören Östlund, Bertil Storåkers and Janne Carlsson

The Clematis

Fair crown of stars of purest ray, Hung aloft on Mapau tree, What floral beauties ye display, Stars of snowy purity; Around the dark-leaved mapau's head Unsullied garlands ye have spread.

Concealed were all thy beauties rare 'Neath the dark umbrageous shade, But still to gain the loftiest spray, Thy weak stem its efforts made; Now, every obstacle o'ercome, Thou smilest from thy leafy home.

That home secure, 'mid sombre leaves

Yielded by thy stalwart spouse, Helps thee to show thy fairy crown, Decorates his dusky boughs: His strength, thy beauty, both unite And form a picture to delight.

Fair flower, methinks thou dost afford Emblem of a perfect wife, Whose work is hidden from the world, Till, perchance, her husband's life Is by her influence beautified, And this by others is descried.

Alexander Bathgate 1845 - 1930 / New Zealand

Ben‟s original banner was a creation of unique high quality and we realised that it would be impossible to simply make some kind of copy – the embroidery would be just too specialised. In due course, therefore, it was felt that a completely novel design would have to be commissioned. The work would be very intricate and would inevitably be time-consuming and, probably, costly. In order to solve the problems, Bernard decided to take on and manage the task, with the assistance of his daughter, Beverley. At this time Beverley was working as head design consultant within a large company specialising in bespoke design projects. Once Bernard had conceived the new design Beverley was

able to put it into a form that Elaine could work from and, in time, Elaine‟s skillful hands gradually brought the project to fruition. The presentation of the new banner, to Ruth, Ben‟s daughter, took place at Brinsbury Campus, North Heath, Pulborough, West Sussex on Saturday the 17th September 2011.

RHS Prestigious Awards to Horticulturists

Everett Leeds UK

TThe Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), the UK‟s foremost gardening organisation, announces the 2011 recipients of its prestigious awards for outstanding contributions to horticulture. Fifteen prominent horticulturists were honoured in a ceremony on Monday 4th July, at Hampton Court Palace Flower Show, when the awards were presented by HRH Princess Alexandra.

Maurice Foster (BCS member) received the highest accolade of the RHS, the Victoria Medal of Honour (VMH). The VMH is awarded to British horticulturists, resident in the United Kingdom, whom the RHS Council considers deserving of special honour. Only 63 horticulturalists hold the VMH at one time, marking the length of Queen Victoria‟s reign.

A press-release says: „Botanical explorer, plantsman and woody plant authority Maurice Foster has introduced many fine garden plants from his trips worldwide. He is a member of the RHS Woody Plant Committee and Trials Committee and also of the Rhododendron, Camellia and Magnolia Group.‟

Maurice Foster is one of Britain's most distinguished plantsmen and is a world authority on many hardy plants. He is a trustee of the Tree Register of Britain and Ireland and has undertaken numerous trips to China as well as to Northern Pakistan, Bhutan, North America and Australia in search of gardenworthy plants.

Maurice in Bhutan

The Clematis

Fair crown of stars of purest ray, Hung aloft on Mapau tree, What floral beauties ye display, Stars of snowy purity; Around the dark-leaved mapau's head Unsullied garlands ye have spread.

Concealed were all thy beauties rare 'Neath the dark umbrageous shade, But still to gain the loftiest spray, Thy weak stem its efforts made; Now, every obstacle o'ercome, Thou smilest from thy leafy home.

That home secure, 'mid sombre leaves

Yielded by thy stalwart spouse, Helps thee to show thy fairy crown, Decorates his dusky boughs: His strength, thy beauty, both unite And form a picture to delight.

Fair flower, methinks thou dost afford Emblem of a perfect wife, Whose work is hidden from the world, Till, perchance, her husband's life Is by her influence beautified, And this by others is descried.

Alexander Bathgate 1845 - 1930 / New Zealand

NOTES

Acknowledgements

I should like to express my thanks to the following people who have contributed to or assisted in the preparation of this Journal.

Bernard Allen

Mike Brown

Linda Crowther

Marcus Dancer

Duncan Donald

Glenis Dyer

Charne Griffiths

Deborah Hardwick

Sonnia Hill

Charles Hills

Richard Hodson

Marie-France Holt

Dianna Jazwinski

Sylvia Lefroy-Owen

Everett Leeds

Carol Lim

Helen Lonergan

Denise MacDonald

Alison Merritt

Mike Miller

Elaine Morton

Mariko Nakanishi

Valerie Le May Neville-Parry

Roy Nunn

Fran Palmeri

Stuart Pereira

Helen Poirier

Sue Reade

Karen Sparrow

Karin Sundström

Keith Treadaway

Ken Woolfenden

Front cover – A large-flowered hybrid growing at Woolerton Old Hall (see back cover and The Clematis 2008 p129). Could this be the lost „Prince of Wales‟? Clematis enthusiasts – go and see this plant in flower! Image © B. Collingwood.

I would like to acknowledge to Karin Sundström and family my gratitude for once again permitting the use of scans and other material from The Genus Clematis: Magnus Johnson: Magnus Johnsons Plantskola AB, Södertälje, 2001, which appear throughout the text.

Special thanks to Dianna Jazwinski for her superb C. montana images (Val‟s collection).

Thanks to our Advertisers – every advertisement is much appreciated. Thank you to Bernard Allen for slide processing and to proof-readers Glenis, Sue, Val, Everett, Keith and Mike.

Thanks to our Publishers Charlesworth Press Ltd

Great thanks once again to all Authors.

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Created 20 years ago around a Tudor house (not open), this quality garden has achieved the highest “Good Garden Guide” rating and RHS Partnership status. Designed by the owner, Lesley Jenkins, this outstanding garden combines a strong structure with clever planting combinations using perennials.

The early spring shows of anemones, hellebores and trilliums are followed by tulips, aquilegias and oriental poppies. The summer roses herald the arrival of the delphiniums which in turn give way to the dominance of stately hollyhocks and vibrant phlox. August sees the hot garden aflame and still burning when the asters and euonymus seed capsules arrive in September.

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