s ’ t a h
T
NICE
FREE
November 2010 No. 19
An Insider’s Guide to the Riviera
Feature Get the Taste for Market Shopping
Lifestyle & Health Fight Colds & Flu with Food
Fashion Autumn’s New Knits
Art & Culture Local Exhibitions
Guides Restaurants, Pubs & Events
Recipes Seafood Dinner Party
www.thatsnicemagazine.com
Live Music Upstairs Open 9am for Breakfast Terrace Open until 2am 2 bars Gourmet Burgers
“The times, they are a changing!” Bob Dylan
Indeed they are, and holiday apartments are fast becoming the most popular form of accommodation! Go Nice is the city’s largest and most experienced specialist holiday rental agency. We offer quality apartments at value for money, with professional and conscientious service. Come by our office at 11bis rue Congres, or consult our website for a full listing of our properties.
www.go-nice.com
Tel: 0033 (0)4 93 87 71 80
Editor’s Welcome
Welcome
to November in the French Riviera! Forget about the colder temperatures and shorter days, here at That’s Nice magazine, we welcome the opportunity to head indoors and experience the flavours, fun and excitement of the season. What am I talking about? Well, firstly we are lucky enough to be surrounded by the most fantastic, fresh local produce, yet many of us still choose to buy from supermarkets. So, with the help of our local foodie Marie Perrier, we get a taste for market shopping and show you how easy, fun and satisfying buying local can be. Then, you get to go home, invite some friends over, open a bottle of wine and voila! Goodbye rosé, hello red wine! The season kicks off with much fan-fair on Thursday 19th, with the annual Beaujolais Nouveau celebrations. That’s the premise behind this month’s front cover, as we take the famous Dita Von Teese cabaret pose and add a French twist. I think you’ll agree our model, Carole Haddouk, fits the role perfectly! What else is there to do on these cold, rainy days (mind you I am writing this in late October as the sun is shining through the window!)? Well, when the clouds finally do creep over, there is plenty to be enjoyed – Monaco is hosting the first ever International Clubbing Show, featuring some of the world’s best DJ’s (FUSION); international jazz, blues, pop and folk artists grace our stages (ESSENTIAL GUIDE); Antibes, Mandelieu and Cagnes-sur-Mer are alive with food fairs (RIVIERA EVENTS); great films are being released including the latest Harry Potter (CINEMA RELEASES); sport abounds on the big screens of our favourite local bars (LIVE SPORTS); and restaurants are dishing up fantastic local produce (RESTAURANT REVIEWS). All that and more, and it’s right here in this magazine! Meanwhile, as English speakers, it is difficult sometimes to know what’s happening in the region, and in fact the country, in which we live (or visit). So, if you’re a bit out of the loop, read That’s Nice News for the latest info on what’s happening in the city, as well as some important updates on international policy.
Finally, I’d like to say a big thank you to our contributors for helping to put together another fantastic edition of That’s Nice. Keep supporting our sponsors, as you know we only recommend the best. And see you next month!
Cassandra Tanti, Editor
Find “That’s Nice Magazine” on Facebook! www.thatsnicemagazine.com
THE TEAM Introducing the dedicated group of people that bring you That’s Nice magazine every month... Cassandra Tanti Editor Journalist
Lucy Pye Sales Team Sub-Editor
Nicole Aspradakis Digital Artist
David Winch Photographer
Nico Timmermans Cinema Releases
Tania Tanti Recipes from the Riviera
www.nikkismind.com
www.cheftaniatanti.com
Tris Kayo Essential Guide
www.myspace.com/triskayo
Linda Pickering Book Reviews
Michelle Corty Fashion Editor
Gemma Zincke Music News
www.uneamericane.com
www.redsoul.org
Maik Kanyanga Fashion Photographer
Michael McQueen Fusion Sales Team
kanyanga_maik@hotmail.com
Sarah Bartlett Horoscopes
www.psychicriviera.com
s
That’
NICE
www.thatsnicemagazine.com thatsnicemagazine@gmail.com PUBLISHER, EDITOR & JOURNALIST Cassandra Tanti cassandratanti@gmail.com, tel: 06 37 72 85 97 ADVERTISING SALES Lucy Pye lucyjpye@gmail.com, tel: 06 66 25 90 74 Michael McQueen michael_macqueen@yahoo.fr, tel: 04 93 52 76 36 PRINTER Petrilli Group, Ventimiglia + 39 0184 352 483/4 Photo’s: fotolia.fr That’s Nice is circulated monthly at all leading tourism venues, hotels, bars, restaurants, retailers & holiday apartments. All rights reserved. No part of this publication can be reproduced (including advertisements) without written consent of That’s Nice. That’s Nice accepts no responsibility for the contents of the advertisements in this magazine.That’s Nice is published by SARL Tanti ISSN: 2101-5368 Capital 200euros
Blue Whales Pub/Bar
Open until 4am - Happy Hour 6pm-12am - Live Music til late - Pool table
Go where the locals go ... Blue Whales. Find us on the map: 1 rue Mascoinat, Vieux Nice
LOOKING FOR SOMETHING TO DO? Wine Tour: Bellet One of the country’s oldest wine regions is right on our doorstep.
Kayaking
Now this is an exhilirating way to experience the Riviera.
Perched Villages Take a journey into the past with this medieval villages tour.
Horse Riding
Time to saddle up and go bush.
Caves
Climbing the Riviera
Enjoy an eerie tour of the magical caves near Grasse.
It’s time to chalk up and conquer that mountain!
Castles
Entreveaux & Lake Castillon
The Riviera’s rich history is revealed through it’s breathtaking castles.
The Story Behind the Architecture A walking tour of Nice’s most famous buildings.
Wine Tour: Les Arcs sur Argens
Go straight to the source of the region’s best wines.
Recipes - Lifestyle - Restaurant Reviews -
A road trip to remember.
Corsica An island of immense beauty & fantastic cuisine.
Mougins
Discover for yourself why this is the most famous gastronomic village in the French Riviera.
Fashion
VISIT: www.thatsnicemagazine.com
November 2010 N°19 This month:
06 MARKETS SPECIAL
23
We show you how easy, affordable and fun market shopping can be!
08 FEATURE ARTICLE
Feel like you’ve missed something? Get up-todate with That’s Nice news.
09 RIVIERA EVENTS
Take advantage of everything that’s happening on the Riviera this November.
7 22
10 RESTAURANT REVIEW
We try Snug’s new winter menu; head to Pinxcho, one of the latest restaurant’s to open in Nice; and sample a touch of Amsterdam at the old town’s latest snack shop.
11 FOOD GUIDE
Your comprehensive guide to eating out in Nice. We only recommend the best!
12 THE FASHION PAGE
10
Our resident designer & fashion stylist presents Autumn’s new knits.
13 ART & CULTURE, BOOK REVIEWS
06
Highlighting 3 top regional art exhibitions, and this month’s best reads.
14 MAPS OF NICE
Three detailed maps of the city plus directions to some of the best locations in town!
16 LIFESTYLE
Beat the cold & flu season with food; support mounts for an anti-suicide campaign for gay teens; and this month’s ‘Did you Know?’.
17
17 RECIPES
Wow your dinner guests with this simple, foolproof, and scrumptious 2-course meal.
13
18 FUSION
19 ESSENTIAL GUIDE Monaco hosts the world’s largest clubbing party, while jazz, blues and pop stars hit the stage in and around Nice.
20 PUB GUIDE
A selection of the best bars in Nice.
22 CINEMA
We give you the low-down on the biggest films hitting the cinema this month!
23 MUSIC NEWS
Bringing you the latest album & single releases, top 3 podcasts and this month in music history.
24 LIVE MUSIC & LIVE SPORTS GUIDES
There’s Live music every night of the week throughout Nice, so who are you going to see?
25 GAMES
Take some time out with our wine quiz, sudoku, word puzzle and spot the difference.
26 HOROSCOPES
What do the stars have in store for you in November?
Beaujolais Nouveau November 18th November Highlight
In the spotlight is the Paris LGBT Film Festival. We also round-up the not-to-miss parties of the month.
The third Thursday of November marks Beaujolais Nouveau – a fun celebration of the latest vintage of this light, fruity and inexpensive wine. But drink up! You’re not likely to see Beaujolais Nouveau wines on the shelf for long after the parties have ended. Beaujolais Nouveau is a very light, simple red wine, designed to serve chilled and be consumed almost immediately. It is made very rapidly, and is just weeks old when it reaches the table. It probably won’t last a year on the shelf. It is also very inexpensive – most restaurants and bars sell bottles for around 10€ and glasses for around 3€. And it’s a great excuse to throw a party! At the stroke of midnight on the third Thursday of every November, the race is on to see who can get the wine to Paris and the rest of the world first. Beaujolais Nouveau began as a local tradition in Beaujolais and Lyon. It is now a triumph of marketing and promotion, largely due to winemaker Georges Duboeuf, the region’s largest producer of Beaujolais Nouveau. So let us be the first to wish you a Happy Beaujolais Day, and shout: “Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!”
5
GET A T A S T E F O R M A R K E T S H O P P I NG... Markets are a great way to discover the flavours of a city and this month we look at two of the most famous markets in our region – the Cours Saleya market in Nice and Italy’s Ventimiglia market.
There are plenty of reasons to do your shopping at a market instead of a supermarket – a bustling atmosphere, shopping in the fresh air, buying from the grower, and a chance to learn about seasonal produce and even how to cook it! But it is easy to walk away from a market with either too much – getting excited and buying more than you really need, or too little - being overwhelmed by the sheer number of products available. So here is some advice to help you become market savvy. Of course, it’s not always best to buy everything at the market, as local butchers, cheese shops and wine caves often have more variety and more competitive prices. So, here’s a bit of advice to encourage you to ditch the supermarkets with their long lines, bad music and unhelpful staff and go local, buy fresh and have fun!
NICE OLD TOWN COURS SALEYA MARKET
It’s pretty much conventional wisdom that the best fruit and vegetables can be found at a market and not the supermarket, because you know where it comes from! The produce is less likely to have undergone the same modes of preservation and transportation as in supermarkets, there are less pesticides and less time spent on the shelf. If you want to buy real garden-fresh products, look for the small producers: they’re the ones with the plainly presented small stalls, and the not-so-perfect undersized produce packed in wooden crates with signs written on cardboard. The produce is literally from their garden! One of the best stands is in the middle of the market in front of the Chapelle de la Miséricorde, and is run by an old lady and her daughter. They have very good prices and the produce is still presented nicely. They also have the cheapest strawberries in the market – 2€ a box! The other benefit of buying from a market is that you can ask advice. What is ripe? What’s the best way to cook it? How long will it last in the fridge? Given the number of tourists that go through the Cours Saleya market, most vendors speak English, so don’t be afraid to ask. Now, you certainly don’t get that kind of service in a supermarket!
Seasonal Produce
Berries: It is berry season and the market is filled with bright and beautifully presented little baskets, brimming with raspberries, strawberries and the like. But don’t be fooled by the pretty packaging. You do not need to pay 5-6€ for a box of strawberries. Remember to try before you buy and shop around! Mushrooms: It is also mushroom season, and the biggest variety you will find is at the markets. But the price tag of 28-30€ per kilo can be disconcerting. So, look out for ‘offers’, for example “5€ for the lot”. The produce is still fresh and still perfect for cooking, and you are often paying half the price. Don’t be afraid to ask the vendor how best to cook each variety. The stars of the season are porcini mushrooms, or in French cèpes. The vendors will cut the stalks in half so you can see they have clear white meat with no bugs or rotting. TIP: The best deals are to be had early in the morning and at the end of the market, when the stalls are trying to offload as much produce as possible so they don’t have to transport it back home. Look for special offers, often displayed in metal bowls.
OLIVES
Only buy olives that are sold at a per kilo price, not per 100g. You shouldn’t pay more than 8-9€ per kilo. The olive stall in the middle of the market offers the best value for money.
6
Marie Perrier is our food guide for the old town of Nice. Ever since she was a little girl, Marie has been scouring local markets and suppliers for the best produce, first with her parents, now as an avid promoter of fresh local produce. Here, she shows us how market buying can be affordable, easy and oh-so-satisfying!
SOCCA
The only socca stand in the market actually offers some of the best socca in Nice. You will notice the flamboyant vendor with her bright red lips and colourful outfits selling the socca, which is actually sourced from a small Pissaladiere shop on rue Droite. You may have seen it being delivered by an old man on his bike, trailing the socca behind him under a metal dome. If you want to try the best socca in Nice, then head to Chez Pippo at the port, on 13 rue Bevastro, open from 5.30pm and closed on Mondays. TIP: Don’t buy socca if it has been sitting for a while, as it is constantly drizzled with olive oil to keep it moist. The result is greasy, dry socca. Wait until a fresh batch is presented, douse it with pepper and dig in! Open 6am – 1.30pm every day except Monday.
THE FLOWER MARKET
Never buy flowers from a supermarket, especially when you have this world-famous flower market at your fingertips. One of the best flower stalls on the Cours Saleya is actually the first one closest to Atmosphere Restaurant. For a bouquet of flowers, you don’t need to pay any more than 12€-15€. Open 6am – 6pm Monday to Saturday, 6am – 1.30pm Sunday. TIP: to keep your bouquet fresh, ad aspirin to the water, and never change the water: the flower excretes important elements into the water to keep it alive.
FISH
It is very hard to buy fresh fish in Nice, and the fish market in Place St. François is small but good. All the fish (except the imported tuna) is sourced each day from local fishing boats and sold fresh. According the fishmongers here, it doesn’t matter if the seafood is 5€ a kilo or 30€ a kilo - if it’s fresh, it’s good! Open every day, 6am – 1pm, except Mondays. TIP: The weather determines the size of the catch. If it’s a cloudy or wet day, the selection at the market will be small. Similarly, loads of sunshine and clear skies means a bigger catch and much more of a selection!
BREAD
One of the best bakeries in Nice is Au Ble d’Azur on rue de Marché. They bake baguettes and fresh, flaky croissants and pain au chocolate all day. Multari on Boulevard Jean Jaurès is also considered one of the top patisseries in town. TIP: Do not store your baguette in the fridge or a plastic bag. It should be kept in the paper bag it comes in, or in a breadbasket.
CHEESE
La Petite Fromagerie, formerly on rue St. François and now at 6 rue du Collet, is in new hands after fifty years of service by the previous owners. But the premise and quality remain the same. There is a nice selection of Italian, French and local cheeses, available at similar prices to the supermarkets. And as Marie says, “You’ll get a Roquefort from the supermarket for 1.50€, but when you taste the one from here, you’ll know the difference.” Of course, the best part is you can try before you buy. If you’re unsure of your cheeses, then try the– Tomme – it is made locally and comes in varying intensity and fat content. There’s also a nice selection of crusted small goats cheeses. TIP: Look out for the Ossau-Iraty, a French cheese made from sheep’s milk. It’s delicious!
The butcher further along rue St. François on the left also has great produce, similar prices and friendly service. If the line is too long at Chez Francis, just walk up to this butcher! It’s right next door to a charcuterie. TIP: If you are confused about which cut of beef to choose remember this: the best cut of meat is the ‘faux fillet’, not always available but top of the range; ‘entrecote’ and ‘rumsteak’ have more marble fat in the meat but come in second; you can ask for slices of the ‘rosbif’ which is called a tornado and is very tasty; ‘grillade’ is a special cut for the bbq; and ‘bourguignon’ and ‘daube’ are for stewing.
WINE
A fantastic wine shop is Nicolas on Place St François. “It’s the best location – near the fish market and the butchers – and they’ve got great prices”, says Marie. “We often feel embarrassed walking in to a wine cave looking for a cheap bottle, but there is no need. Whether your budget is 3€ or 30€, this wine shop can offer you a nice drop.” There is a great selection of affordable, quality wines together with more upmarket bottles. Marie’s favourite ‘table’ wine is Les Petites Récolte, a steal at just 2.55€ a bottle!
BUTCHER
Chez Francis, best known as the St. François butcher, is the most popular in town, and for good reason. They supply meat to many of the local businesses as well as the public; their meat is known for being fresh and very well priced. It’s a large store with 6-7 butchers, and often 6-7 queues, so don’t be afraid to jump in! Some of the butchers speak English, which is helpful. Chez Francis opens early, but closes for lunch from 1-3pm, then is open late till around 7-8pm. It is closed on Mondays and Sunday afternoons.
Ventimiglia ITALY
The Cours Saleya market is open every day except Monday, from 6am to around 1.30pm. Most produce stores are closed on Sunday & Monday.
If you are looking for a taste of Italy but don’t have the time or money for a lengthy holiday away, then the Ventimiglia markets are great for a day-trip. There is the hugely popular Friday market, which consumes much of the coast and is brimming with clothes, accessories and kitchen paraphernalia, as well as some good produce stalls. Then, a few meters north there is a covered fruit and vegetable market, together with cheese, meat and flower vendors.
FRIDAY MARKET
Once famed for selling fake luxury products, the Ventimiglia market is now really just a very large conglomerate of vendors selling legitimate leather products, clothes, accessories and household items, with the odd fake Louis Vuitton handbag thrown in the mix. It is hugely popular and stretches for kilometres along the Ventimiglia coast. There is a lot of repetition of items on sale, but there are plenty of bargains to be had. Cheap and cheerful probably best describes it, but you will find value in leather, jewellery, linens, shoes, clothing, silk and more. TIP: Try and bargain with the vendor to get a cheaper price, they’re used to it! The market starts in the east with a handful of local produce stalls. There are mountains of sundried tomatoes for around 6€ a kilo, bottles upon bottles of golden, locally pressed olive oils for just 10€, gigantic cheese wheels of parmigiana and pecorino, and mountains of cured hams and sausages. You don’t have to ask to try anything because there are taste plates a plenty, but you do have to fight for access with eager Italians and wasps. The cured meats are sold in blocks and pre-packaged, so if you are after fresh, pre-sliced hams then wait for the covered fruit & vegetable market. Homemade preserves, pestos and tapenades are hard to pass by, especially at around 1.50€ a jar! Pastas abound also, and there is a dazzling array of different colours and sizes available. Feel free to shop around, there are only a handful of these vendors so you can easily compare prices. Our bargains for the day included a pair of sunglasses for 3€, 4 jars of tapenade & pesto for 5€, and a heavy based frying pan for 10€.
FRUIT & VEGETABLE MARKET
At the centre of the market are open stands full of fruit and vegetables; along one side are the booths selling hams, cheeses and bread; and at the back is an enclosed fish market. The produce is often cheaper than that sold in France. There’s no pretty packaging in Ventimiglia - everything is simply displayed in its wooden crate, ready for the picking. The butchers sell good-priced meat, and will happily roll a roast, de-bone a chicken or suggest tonight’s dinner for you. Most speak, Italian, French and English, so communication shouldn’t be much trouble. Despite only a handful of stalls, there can still be quite a difference in price among them, for example we found buffalo mozzarella for 15€ a kilo in one stall, and 18.50€ in the stall right beside it. Taste the cheeses that are available, but be careful. It all tastes so good, and before you know if you’ve just spent 30€ on cheese! Ask for a running price if you prefer. There is a great variety of seafood available at the fish market as Ventimiglia has excellent fishing grounds. Don’t forget you can always ask the fishmonger to prepare the fish for you if you’re a little squeamish. If you are feeling hungry and exhausted after all your shopping, and need to find a quiet place away from the crowds, then head further west along the coast for a few blocks to Pepino and have lunch by the sea. It’s not a tourist trap and the meals are great value!
Getting there:
Trains run regularly from Nice to Ventimiglia, and the trip takes about an hour. If you plan on buying-up big, it’s best to take a car. But be prepared in case you are stopped at the tollbooth by Customs. Vendors in Italy are obliged by law to give you a receipt and you should request one as proof of purchase.
7
NICE NEWS UPDATES t’s
Tha
LOCAL
NEW-LOOK TRAIN STATION
Nice train station is getting an 80€ million makeover – ten years after initial works were supposed to begin. The renovations will be staggered over a four-year period between 2012 and 2016 and include a complete renovation of the buildings, car parking, and a new footbridge. But most highly anticipated is the creation of a connection directly to the tramline on Jean Médecin and a new shopping centre in between. A €6 million land purchase process will begin in 2011.
TERRACES CLOSE AT 12.30AM
It is that time of year again when the Mairie puts into force the closure of terraces in the old town of Nice at 12.30am. This controversial plan is aimed at reducing crime rates and noise in the city.
END OF AN ERA
After 22 years of service to the English-speaking community of Nice, Cat’s Whisker’s bookstore sadly closed its doors on October 16th. Owner and contributor to That’s Nice magazine, Linda Pickering, said she could no longer compete with e-books and online bookstores. It’s a sad day when you loose the opportunity to walk into a real bookstore, be inspired and overwhelmed by the volume of literature around you, and feel good about supporting small, independent retailers. But Linda assures us she will continue to help us find the best reads, in a new way. So stay tuned.
NATIONAL
DOWNLOADING LAW ENFORCED
PHASE 2 OF PORT RENNOVATION
The port of Nice is entering the final phase of renovation works, to be completed by April 2011. The street won’t actually change much – there will still be two traffic lanes running down Quai des Deux Emmanuel, but the area will be beautified and modernised. Great news for drinks in the sun next summer! There will also be underground parking and eventually an underground metro running all the way to the airport.
TRAM LINE 2 UNDERWAY
For those of us who lived through the disruptions of constructing the first tramline, get set for phase 2! Work is finally underway to extend the network to the port and out to the airport. The plan is this: - Line 1 will be extended 4.5km north from the Pont Michel station to La Trinidad. - Split into 2 parts, Line 2A will run from the Port of Nice westwards, and another line will run to the airport. The final aim is for over 60% of residents in the metropolitan area, and 150,000 working people to be within 500m of a tramline.
8
The first round of warning messages are entering the inboxes of suspected pirates accused of downloading material illegally from the Internet. But the Hadopi law is already plagued with controversy, as one of the country’s largest Internet Service Provider’s refuses to comply, hackers threaten to destroy the system, and the music and entertainment industry as a whole offers little in the way of alternative. Here’s how the “third strike and your out” law works: 1st strike: An email “Attention, your internet access has been used to commit acts – included below in this state – which may constitute a penal infraction.” It does not include a subject or the names of those who complained (record companies etc). 2nd strike: If the offender is caught again within 6 months, a registered letter is sent to the person’s home address, which is provided by the ISP. 3rd strike: the ISP is obliged by law to suspend its internet services to the offender for a period of between 2 months and 1 year, and other ISP’s cannot replace them by law. Problems so far: The major ISP’s in France are SFR, Numericable, Orange and Free. Free has already refused to supply Hadopi with the online transmission of client data, giving them instead paper listings that they must enter by hand into their systems. It is also refusing to send out warning emails, saying that the law
contains no sanctions for those who refuse to send the warning emails. The Hadopi site has already been hacked, and pulled offline for several hours. False emails are being sent out asking for fines to be paid. There are rumours of a DDoS attack (Denialof-service attack) on November 5th that could cripple the Hadopi site. And we are yet to see any of the promises by the entertainment industry and the government of a less expensive, more accessible range of products that can be legally downloaded. This is one news update we’ll be watching with interest.
FRANCE FREE TO DEPORT ROMA
France is free to continue deporting Roma back to their home countries, after the European Commission suspended its threat of disciplinary action in October. At the last hour, France came through with the necessary changes to its national legislation on the free movement of EU citizens – it will now issue written expulsion orders and allow the possibility for appeal. It was enough for the Commission, which once called the deportations a “disgrace”, to pull back. The EU’s justice chief, Viviane Reding, who likened Sarkozy’s actions to Nazi tactics, said she was happy that France had responded positively. Sarkozy said he was “very happy that reason had triumphed”, as human rights groups remained outraged. While welcoming the changes, they say the commission’s decision does not address the thousands of Roma who have already been deported ‘illegally’. Furthermore, they say it sends the wrong message to other countries, like Italy, that are also cracking down on the Roma. Heather Grabbe, director of the Open Society Institute in Brussels, told the media “It’s a P.R disaster, making the commission look weak and France look vindicated.” At the centre of the row was a government memo ordering police chiefs to clear 300 camps or illegal settlements within three months saying, “Roma camps are a priority”. It has since amended the document, modified its legislature, and escaped disciplinary action.
RIVIERA EVENTS
November 2010
3rd November
WWE Raw World Tour Nice
WWE legends hit the ring for one of only four shows throughout France. Palais Nikaïa at 8pm.
4th – 9th November
Jazz Under the Seville Orange Trees (Rencontres de jazz de la Gaude) La Gaude
There are plenty of festivals and shows to keep you busy on the Riviera this month. From chestnuts to chocolates, gastronomy fairs to wrestling, and New York Opera to Indian Music, there’s something to satisfy all the senses.
11th November
Metropolitan Opera in New York
Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival
A prestigious production of Giuseppe Verdi’s Don Carlo will be broadcast live on the big screen in Monaco’s Salle Garnier, featuring the famous French tenor Roberto Alagna.
A five-day jazz extravaganza performed in prestigious venues throughout Monaco. For details: montecarloresort.com
Monaco
The only international film festival entirely dedicated to comedy and humour. There are three films screened every day in Salle Prince Pierre.
26th – 29th November
Indian Music Night
12th -14th November
A special concert featuring traditional and modern Indian music, at Théâtre Lino Venture at 8pm.
Nice
Chestnut Festival Biot
Get into the spirit of winter with the annual Chestnut Festival in the main square of Biot, with music, chestnut tasting and mulled wine. Open 1am – 8pm, free entry.
23rd – 27th November
Monaco
6th November
6th November
Monaco
Monte-Carlo Comedy Film Festival
A key event in the region’s jazz scene, this festival combines 6 venues, 10 bands, 9 concerts and 80 musicians. Held at various venues in La Gaude. For more info: assowhat.fr.
Nice
23rd – 27th November
C’est pas Classique A classical music festival embracing famous and local musicians, ensembles, exhibitions and events. The public are free to wander around the Acropolis centre and discover different artists and performances.
13th November
Festival MANCA Nice
This international Contemporary Music Festival provides a broad repertoire of works as well as workshops for children and master classes for the public.
Monte-Carlo Gastronomy Show Monaco
Celebrating it’s 15th anniversary, this year’s show boasts 120 exhibitors, covering everything from cuisine to table settings. The theme is fruits and vegetables. Entry 5€.
27th – 28th November
Sugar & Chocolate Fair Antibes
The Pastry Chef’s Union hosts a trade fair covering everything in their industry. Held at Salle Plyvalente.
19th – 22nd November 7th -28th November
Nice Opera Nice
A variety of performances by the Philharmonic Orchestra of Nice. Info: www.opera-nice.org
11th – 15th November
Salon du Palais Gourmand Cagnes-sur-Mer
This is one of the top 10 trade fairs held in Nice, and takes place at the Hippodrome. It offers local produce to try and buy. Entry 8€, open 10am – 8pm.
Mediterranean Land & Flavours Trade Fair Mandelieu
To celebrate it’s 10th anniversary, the fair will this year feature some of the greatest Michelin Star chefs from the region for demonstrations and contests. A key event for all food lovers. Entry 5€, open 10am to 8pm.
21st November
Nice Rugby Nice
Nice take on Montauban at the Stadium des Arboras, Route de Grenoble, at 3pm.
27th November
Celtic Legends Nice
Celebrating the show’s 10th anniversary, the Celtic Legends crew come together for a new show – an exclusive performance as part of a world tour. Nice Acropolis at 8.30pm, tickets 35€ - 46€. 9
Restaurant Reviews Snug & Cellar
The Snug - a restaurant that prides itself on using fresh market produce and seasonal ingredients – has created another standout menu for winter dining. It’s hearty, rich and traditional, yet distinctly different, and keeps pace with the cosy, classic ambiance of this gastronomic pub. As with all of Snug’s menus, the latest is a perfect example of what happens when you give chefs access to local, seasonal produce. Enthusiasm and quality shines. After all, how can you get the same from frozen or imported ingredients? “We wanted a menu that stands out, using winter produce sourced locally, and rustic ingredients. Something a little bit special,” says manager Jon South. Aspiration achieved. The inclusion of game on the menu is distinguishable: pan roasted breast of wood pigeon with roast winter vegetables, figs and a berry compote for entrée is flavoursome and simple, yet refined. The pot of game stew with parsley, thyme and sage suet dumplings is a meat lover’s delight – full of tender little morsels of rabbit, pigeon, pheasant and wild boar. Equally rich and enticing is the braised lamb shank with crushed root vegetables – a prerequisite on any winter menu, I believe – and a lighter dish of slow roast pork belly, delivered with an impressive mixed bean and chorizo creamed cassoulet, flame grilled chorizo and apple. A perfect wine accompaniment is the Gigondas font du Mirai, a full flavoured Côte du Rhone for 29€. There is also a nice winter wine for under 20€, the Cicilian Nero d’Avola. The honey and rosemary baked camembert is back on the menu, much to my delight, as is a soup and fish of the day. But the desserts are all new, and delightfully decadent - honey and vanilla cheese cake, fruit crumble with fresh cream, and the best chocolate fondant I have tasted in Nice. The à la carte is of course just one of the menu’s available at Snug’s culinary table. Fridays are now dedicated to ‘fish’n’chips’, only it’s market fresh fish, house-made chips and pies; Roast Sundays with two different meats, traditional trimmings and seasonal sides; and their hugely popular, daily changing tapas menu. As always, dining at Snug is refined and upscale, yet comfortable and affordable enough for everyone to appreciate. Their new winter menu is as it should be - rich, hearty, and decadent, to warm the cockles on these fast approaching cold winter days.
Pinxcho Pinxcho is a new and contemporary restaurant just off place garibaldi, offering traditional cuisine in a fun and fresh environment. It’s a great option for lunch, a casual dinner with friends or an evening of wine and tapas. The restaurant’s two owners – Marie and Christian – are enthusiastic and eager to please. Together with their two talented chefs, they’ve put together quite an extensive menu focussing on classic French cuisine, with a twist. It includes traditional entrees such as carpaccio of salmon and tomato buffalo mozzarella, as well as the more modish tempura fish and vegetables, and pissaladièere pâte (all 8.50€). For mains there are carpaccios and tartares (including, quite uniquely, veal), steaks, grills, fish, pastas and salads (most around 12€). The presentation of the dishes matches the imaginative ambiance of the room itself, and service is offered with a smile. There’s also a fantastic selection of plat du jours, and I can strongly recommend the house-made pastas – simply delightful and so rich in flavour! At any time of day you can drop in and enjoy their tapas menu and regional wines, including the scrumptious Bordeaux for 22€, and a Côte de Provence Château Ste Croix for 20€. Or there are quality house wines for between 11€ and 14€ a bottle, or 3€ a glass. In the end, Pinxcho has achieved what every new restaurant wants to accomplish – credibility through a polished cuisine delivered in a welcoming ambiance, at a price that everyone can afford.
Open from 7am to midnight, closed Sunday lunch and Monday. 7 rue Bonaparte, Nice 04 93 89 8183
Dutch Touch Amsterdam
A new Dutch café has just opened up in Nice, dishing out some famous Dutch snack classics in a cosy and friendly setting. The bright orange tables, chairs and exterior are a good indication that you’ve found the right place! For Dutch-food novices, you must try the Bami: an Indonesian-inspired patty made of mie-goreng ‘Asian flat noodles’, breaded and deep fried; the frikandel: a skinless hotdog with ketchup, mayonnaise and chopped onion; and the kroket: a deep fried meat ragout covered in breadcrumbs. Don’t forget the French fries, which the Dutch love just as much as the French! Ok, so it’s not the healthiest of cuisines, but it is tasty. They also have a host of other snacks available, like hot and cold sandwiches, paninis, burgers and salads. A glass of wine will set you back just 2€, a glass of Heineken 2.50€. So check them out, they’re on the northern end of rue Droite in Nice old town.
10
Editor’s Note: Our restaurant reviews are not paid for. The restaurants do not know they are being reviewed so we can give an honest assessment without bias. I hope you enjoy my recommendations as much as I enjoy discovering them! Cassandra Tanti
Food Guide
Past Reviews l’Univers - Michelin Star -
54 bld Jean Jeurés 04 93 62 32
Le Locale - Italian resto & deli -
4 rue Rusca Nice Port 04 93 14 08 29
Cave de l’Origine - Wine Bar 3 rue Dalpozzo - 04 83 50 09 60
Snug & Cellar Nice’s only gastronomic pub has established a strong reputation for it’s dynamic changing tapas and quality à la carte menu. This is creative cuisine where every dish shines.
Nice’s only Gastronomic Pub
Food served every day, 12pm - 11pm Corner fur Droite & rue Rossetti Tel: 04 93 80 43 22
Rossetisserie - Roast meats 8 rue Mascoinat 04 93 76 18 80
Mangez Moi - Garden Restaurant 9 rue Blacas 04 93 87 54 71
Zen - Japanese -
27 rue d’Angleterre 04 93 82 41 20
Café del Mare - Asian, French & Med. Beaulieu sur Mer Port 04 93 54 65 34
11e Art - Contemporary -
11 rue Meyerbeer- 04 93 87 57 15
Cave Wilson - Wine Bar -
Darlington The Darlington is a chic, relaxed and fun bistro restaurant, morphing French and world cuisine. The emphasis is on fresh flavours, creatively delivered, and finished with a smile.
16 rue Gubernatis - 04 93 85 33 10
Darlington - Modern Bistro 11 rue Dellile - 04 93 87 92 32
Les Jardins du Capitole - French 52 Prom. des Anglais 04 93 44 78 81
Le Choucas - Fondu -
3 rue Place Vielle 04 93 62 13 44
Chez Juliette - French -
Darlington www.darlington-bistro.com
Open Mon - Sat lunch, Fri - Sat dinner 11 rue Delille, Nice Tel: 04 93 80 43 22
1 rue Rosetti - 04 93926847
Le Pain à Table - Bakery Restaurant 1 rue St. François de Paul 04 93 62 94 32
Delhi Darbar - Indian -
14 ru Abbaye 04 93 01 45 68
Bienvenue A fantastic English-speaking French restaurant, priding itself on delivering market fresh produce every day. Offering a cosy & stylish ambiance and great-value formulas for lunch & dinner. *FREE APÉRITIF FOR That’s Nice READERS
Open Wed - Sun, lunch & dinner 5 Place St François, Nice Tel: 04 93 79 84 40
Bellota House - Spanish -
19 rue de la Prefecture 04 93 68 61 83
Le Virginie - Seafood -
Place August Blanqui 0493551007
Snug - Gastro Pub -
Corner rue Droite & rue Rossetti
Giuseppe & Peppimo - Café/Resto Place Garibaldi
La Pierre Bise - Pierrade Restaurant 5 rue Barillerie 0493 53 44 94
Le Tire Bouchon - French -
rue de la Prefecture 04 93 92 63 64
frog
fresh & natural
www.frog-restaurant.fr
Frog The cuisine at Frog is an impressive show of beauty colliding with texture. Think organic, fresh produce meets refined, comfortable dining. Throw in delicious cocktails and hand picked wines, and you have one of Nice’s most established and respected restaurants. Open Tues - Sun, 7pm - 12am 3 rue Milton Robbins, Nice Tel: 04 93 85 85 65
La Chaumiere - A-list Restaurant -
384 bld de L’Observatoire 04 93 01 77 68
Adonis - Lebanese -
12 rue St Francois de Paule 04 93 62 35 02
Frog - Modern French -
65 rue Milton Robbins 04 93 85 85 65
Gloss - World Food -
16 rue Delile 04 93 81 71 87
L’Ybane - Lebanese 1 rue de la Liberté 04 93 16 26 26 Caffé dell’ Arte - French Cours Saleya 04 93 62 30 37 To read the reviews, visit:
www.thatsnicemagazine.com
12
Art & culture
FRANCISCAN MUSEUM, CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF CIMIEZ Open 10am to 12pm and 3pm to 6pm/closed Sundays MATISSE MUSEUM 164 Avenue des Arènes de Cimiez Open 10am to 6pm, closed on Tuesdays
Caroline Challan Belval
Museum of Contemporary & Modern Art, Nice
MARC CHAGALL NATIONAL BIBILICAL MESSAGE MUSEUM Closed on Tuesdays Cost: 6.50 Euros www.musee-chagall.fr
Through sketch and charcoal, Caroline offers her version of the legendary story of St. George slaying a dragon. The fresco, presented on paper, reads from right to left and is divided into five narrative sequences. The exhibition runs from the 13th November to February 2011. Free entry.
ASIAN ARTS MUSEUM 405, Promenade des Anglais Arénas www.arts-asiatiques.com
Kitsch!
MUSEUM OF ART AND HISTORY (Palais Masséna) 35 Promenade des Anglais
An exhibition centred on the theme of kitsch, particularly the 50’s and 60’s, and created in the workshops of Vallauris. Entry 2€, open 2pm-6pm Wed, Sat & Sun, 10am – 6pm Thur & Fri. 9 rue Saint Sébastien.
Footprint, Contemporary Jewellery Exhibition by Henri Gargat Espace Solidor, Cagnes-sur-Mer
Exhibited in a space dedicated entirely to contemporary jewellery, this major exhibition reveals the creative process behind Henri Gargat’s works as well as a display featuring some never seen before pieces. The exhibition runs until February 13th 2011.
BookReviews
MUSEUMS
Musée d’Histoire et de Céramique Biotoises, Biot
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY AND MODERN ART (MAMAC) Promenade des Arts Open from 10am to 6pm/closed Mondays www.mamac-nice.org FINE ARTS MUSEUM 33, Avenue des Baumettes Open 10am to 6pm/closed Mondays VILLA ARSON 20, Avenue Stephen Liégeard, Closed Tuesdays www.villa-arson.org
Time to get cozy on the couch or in bed with a good book! There are some great new releases this month, from Keith Richard’s autobiography, to Michael Connelly’s latest novel and an exciting read for both kids and adults... Linda
LIFE by Keith Richards An electrifying new memoire by the man of rebellion himself - Keith Richards - about the consequences of fame; being part of the world’s greatest rock’n’roll band; and the music industry. He writes the book as he remembers it, helped along with notebooks, letters and a diary he once kept. This is a well-written time capsule of life with The Rolling Stones. Music lovers will enjoy his stories behind the making of such greats as “Ruby Tuesday”, while others will be intrigued by his explanation of the music revolution that swept through the U.K and the U.S.
THE REVERSAL by Michael Connelly Former police reporter and international best selling author Michael Connelly delivers up his latest novel, The Reversal. In it, Mickey Haller (from ‘The Lincoln Lawyer’ and ‘The Brass Verdict’) teams up with Detective Harry Bosch, for a high-profile retrial of a brutal child murderer. Described by the Los Angeles Times as possibly Connelly’s best novel yet, The Reversal is gaining rave reviews.
TOWERS OF MIDNIGHT by Robert Jordan & Brandon Sanderson This is the second in a three-part best selling series, based on material Robert Jordan left behind when he died in 2007, and written by Brandon Sanderson. An adventurous read for both young and old.
13
Maps of Nice
lp oz zo
la Bu ff a
R ue R
o y a le
R ue Da
R ue de
Me ye r
be e r
Rue
PUBS & BARS RESTAURANTS ACTIVITY PROVIDERS RETAIL/CUSTOMER SERVICE
Les Jardins du Capitole
Bains Douches
TRAM LINE
i
TOURISM OFFICE
MADEMOISELLE VINTAGE BUY & SELL Original French Designs
Unique Pieces
Clothes, Shoes & Accessories
Designer Brands
41 RUE DE FRANCE, NICE Tel: 06 88 54 22 20 14
Darlington
Checkpoint
frog
fresh & natural
Ru
eM
ar
t in
Se
yt
ou
r
rue Bonaparte
15
Lifestyle & Health By Health Reporter Cassandra Tanti
Fight Colds & Flu, with Food!
‘It Gets Better’ Campaign for Gay Teens
Don’t visit a pharmacist when you get a cold or flu this season, visit the market! Fill your diet with antioxidant rich and immunity boosting foods to help ease the symptoms. Here’s what your shopping list should look like…
Garlic & Ginger SHOPPING LIST
Honey
Ginger Garlic Strawberries Broccoli Red Peppers Kiwi Fruit Spinach Green Tea Steak Salmon Honey Chilli Yoghurt Lemons Bottled Water Liquorice Chicken Soup: Carrots Celery Onion Egg Noodles Soy Sauce Coriander Chicken
Garlic is the cornerstone of cold and flu treatment. Why? Because it has anti-bacterial properties that help the immune system fight infection. Ginger is pain relieving, antiseptic and antioxidant. It reduces pain and fever and has a mild sedative effect to encourage rest.
Onions
Onion is a close relative of garlic and has similar properties.
Green Tea
Green tea contains antioxidants that that can help boost immune function. The heat also helps clear congestions.
Vitamin C
Strawberries, broccoli, red peppers, kiwi fruit, & spinach – all contain Vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant that promotes a strong immune system which is better able to combat infections.
Steak and salmon
Lean meats provide the kind of iron that is easily absorbed by the body, which is necessary for maintaining a healthy immune system. They also contain zinc which, among its many benefits, activates white blood cells that help fight off infections.
For soothing irritated throats and reducing coughing. Mix with lemon and hot water or by the teaspoon for particularly irritating coughs.
Chilli
Capsaicin, a natural compound found in chillis, can thin mucus, thereby making breathing easier and allow the nasal passages to get rid of germs.
Liquorice
Liquorice acts as an anti-inflammatory therefore it is excellent for stubborn coughs and lung infections.
Yoghurt
Yoghurt and other cultured milk products contain probiotics, good bacteria with immune-boosting benefits. It is a myth that milk products increase phlem during a cold.
Lemons
Mix lemon and honey for a soothing, hot beverage, and squeeze into cold water to help maintain the body’s internal pH “climate”.
Bottled water
Water will rehydrate you during a cold and also provides a moist environment for ear, nose and throat issues. Aim to drink 8 glasses a day.
Cold Fighting Chicken Noodle Soup
That old remedy of eating chicken soup actually works: it’s a combination of the chicken (packed with zinc), the hot temperature (to loosen congestion), and the veggies (loaded with vitamins). Modernise the classic chicken soup recipe for added benefit, adding some pasta for extra protein and garlic and chilli. 2 litres chicken stock (homemade or brought) 1.5 cups diced carrots 1 cup diced celery 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 packet egg noodles 2 cups shredded cooked chicken Soy sauce to taste 1 tsp chilli-garlic past (or to taste) 1 centimetre knob ginger, minced Coriander for garnish METHOD: In a large pot, fry the garlic, ginger and chilli-garlic paste on a low heat for about 2 minutes, add the vegetables and stir. Add stock and simmer for about 15 minutes. Add noodles, soy sauce and chicken and cook until noodles are just tender. Garnish with coriander and Serve.
16
A campaign aimed at reversing high suicide rates among LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transsexual) teens is gaining significant momentum, attracting the support of celebrities, Google staff, and the President of the United States of America – all within weeks of the campaign’s launch. The “It gets better” project was created in September with just one video by noted writer and media pundit Dan Savage, talking with his partner Terry about their experience with teenage bullying, family, struggle and happiness. Since the video was launched, thousands of other people have shared their stories for the “It gets better project”, reminding bullied teens to stay strong throughout their teen years. They’ve received a staggering 10 million views already. In America, LGBT kids are 4 times more likely to attempt suicide than their straight peers, and more than one third of LGBT kids have attempted suicide. I imagine the figures are not too dissimilar throughout the rest of the world, if not higher. The campaign is backed by The Trevor Project, a support network established with the film Trevor, a story about a 13-year-old gay boy who attempts suicide after being bullied in school. The centre was getting about 400 calls a week, now 1000. In his YouTube speech, President Obama said “You are not alone, you didn’t do anything wrong. You didn’t do anything to deserve being bullied and there is a whole world waiting for you filled with possibilities.”
CPR for dummies
We see it performed on TV medical shows and in the movies, but when push comes to shove, how many of us actually know how to perform CPR? Not enough, when you consider that if CPR is performed after a heart attack or cardiac arrest, the person has more than double the chance of surviving. So, rather than not attempting CPR at all, or doing a botched job, try this. New research has shown that performing chest compressions alone is more effective than a non-trained person trying to perform ‘rescue breaths’ and compressions. In fact, it is a significant 22% more successful, because the chest compressions remain uninterrupted, which is the most important thing. So, that ‘kiss of life’, for the untrained person, could actually be quite the opposite.
Did you know?
You are more likely to experience nightmares in winter than in summer. The colder the room you sleep in, the better the chance that you’ll have a bad dream. Scientists aren’t entirely clear as to why this is the case, but if you want to avoid those night horrors, you might want to keep yourself a little toastier at night!
Recipe’s from the Riviera
By Chef Tania Tanti
Japenese Tartare duo of Salmon and Tuna with a Cabbage Salad Serves 4 400g fresh tuna 400g fresh salmon (ask fishmonger for a good cut for sashimi) 4tbs finely chopped fresh coriander 2 tbs finely chopped fresh chives ½ cucumber very finely chopped 6 tbs sesame oil 6 tbs soy sauce
Salad: ½ cabbage, finely sliced 2tbs sesame oil 4 tbs mayonnaise juice half lime black sesame seeds
Chop the fresh tuna and salmon roughly into 1cm cubes and separate each into separate bowls. Combine half of the remaining ingredients into each bowl and mix well. For the salad, mix together all of the ingredients, except the sesame seeds. To assemble, make a mould of each the salmon and tuna. Spoon the salad onto a plate and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
Smoked Salmon & Prawn Ravioli with a Prawn Bisque Serves 4 1 packet wonton wrappers 4-5 slices smoked salmon 12 cooked prawns, shelled (keep shells for sauce) 3 cloves garlic, finely diced 3 tbs fresh chives, finely sliced 1 egg white 1 tsp cornflour Sauce: Shells of prawns 2 onions, roughly diced Half a leek roughly diced 1/2 carrot, finely chopped 1 cup cream
MARKETS
To prepare the sauce, fry the onion and leek in a little olive oil until lightly browned. Add the prawn shells and pour in 1 litre of cold water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain, return to the heat and simmer for a further 30 minutes until stock reduces by half and slightly thickens. Add one of cup cream, season and boil for 10 minutes over a medium heat. Finely dice the salmon and prawns, and combine with the remaining ingredients. Mix the cornflour with 2 teaspoons of water. Place a spoon full of mix into each wonton wrapper, brush the edges with cornflour and place another wrapper on top, pressing the edges down firmly to stick. Set aside in the fridge for 15-20 minutes. Cook the ravioli in a pot of boiling water for five minutes. Drain and place them on a plate and top with the sauce, finishing with a sprinkle of the carrot.
NICE Flower Market, Cours Saleya Tues & Thurs Fish Market, Place St François Tues-Sun, mornings Provençal Market, Cours Saleya Every morning except Monday Libération Fruit & Vegetable Market, Avenue Malausséna Tues - Sun, 7am - 1pm
Antibes Artisan Market, Cours Masséna Thu: 3pm, Fri: 6am-1pm, Sat: 4.30pm Provençal Market, Cours Masséna Sat-Sun: 6am – 1pm
CAGNES-SUR-MER Fish Market, Port abri du Cros-deCagnes Tues-Sun: 7.30am – 1pm
Cagnes-sur-Mer Market, Cité Marchande Tues-Sun: 7am – 1pm
SOPHIA ANITPOLIS
CANNES
ST LAURENT DU-VAR
Market, Place Joseph Bermond Tues: 9am - 2pm
Marché Forvillen (Provençal Market), market square Fortville, Suquet district Tues-Sun: 6am – 1 pm
Flower Market, Promenade des Flots Bleus Saturday
Provençal Market, Place Paul Roubaud Every day in the mornings
VALBONNE
GRASSE Provençal Market Wed: Place du Mail, Thu: Place St Fainéant, Sat: Capitou. 7am - 1pm
MENTON Menton Market Mon: Gare Routière & Port, Tues: Gare Routière, Sat: Prés du Port. 7am - 1pm
MONACO Place d’Armes Market Ave St-Charles Market, every morning
Local Market, Place Belmond Tues, Thur & Fri
VALLAURIS Local Market, Place de l’Homme aux Moutons Tues-Sun Fish Market, Old Port Every morning
VENCE Local Market, Place de Grand Jardin Tues-Sun: mornings
17
FUSION In the Spotlight
Paris LGBT film festival
Over the decades, homosexuality and transgender themes within cinema have evolved dramatically, from whimsical critic-proof comic trope such as Charlie Chaplin in drag (A WOMAN – 1915), to an entirely independent genre, which continues to blossom thanks to platforms like the LGBT film festival in Paris. The festival has been screening films since 1994; launching them onto the world scene and helping them gain the recognition they deserve. The festival has built a solid reputation for itself due to the quality of cinema it shows and the issues they aim to tackle. There is surely no better media than cinema to promote acceptance and understanding of differences and to help stamp out homophobia for good. And this year it is back with a plethora of fantastic flicks!
Described by What’s on When as one of the best cinema events of its kind, the festival will run from November 12th - 21st with screenings at the Forum des Images in the French capital. Among the most anticipated films this year is “Strella”, following ex-con George. On his first night of freedom he rents a cheap hotel room in Athens where he meets a young transsexual prostitute named Strella. After spending the night together they soon fall in love, but George’s past soon comes back to haunt him. Another favourite this year is “Donne moi la Main” or “Give me your Hand”. This French film tells of the trials and tribulations of two young brothers as they leave their father behind in France and hitchhike their way to Spain to attend the funeral of their estranged mother. The journey reveals some secrets and problems that the brothers must struggle to overcome in order to accept each other as individuals. As well as feature films, the festival offers an array of short films, documentaries and even debates, so if you fancy a trip to Paris you can visit the website at www.ffglp.net for more details. Otherwise, keep an eye out for the latest in gay and lesbian cinema releases and enjoy them in the comfort of your own home.
HIGH, 45/47 Promenade des Anglais, Nice Friday 12th
John Dahlbäck Friday 19th
Remady
Gay Friendly Listings Nice BARS Le Crazy 21 rue Droite Glam 6 rue Emmanuel La Civette 1 Cours Saleya Le Smarties 6 rue Defly Le Fard 25 Promenade des Anglais Le Klub 6 rue Halévy
RESTAURANTS La Pierre Bise 5 rue Barillerie Les Jardins du Capitole 52 Prom. des Anglaise Les Maori 15 rue Massena
SHOPPING Vog 2 rue Mascoînat Urban System 1 rue Françis Gallo Way-In 4 rue de la Loge Un Monde à Part 12 rue Alexandre Mari
SAUNA Azur 4 quai Papacino Bains Douches (gay) 7 rue Gubernatis Du Château 17 rue Ponchettes
HAIR DRESSER Impact Coiffeure 39 rue Droite & 8 rue Francis Gallo
HOTELS Connexion 65 rue de la Buffa
November Play Dates
Le crazy, 21 rue Droite, Nice Mondays
Miss Pizza Tuesdays
90’s Mega Sound Wednesdays
Boys Boys Boys
Glam, 6 rue Eugène, Nice
Fridays
Guest DJ’s Saturdays Le Crazy The Party Sundays
Play Pout
Every Sunday
Karaoke & Dance
SMARTIES, 10 rue Defly, Nice
Thursdays
DJ parties
SLC
facebook: Smarties Bar Restaurant
Les Jardins du Capitole
7 rue Gubernatis, Nice Tel: 04 93 80 28 26 18
Men only
Place Massena Sun bus Station, Félix Faure
Open every day 7.30am - 12pm 52 Promenade des Anglais, Nice Tel: 04 93 44 78 81
Essential GUIDE
HELLO PARTY PEOPLE! We are lucky enough this month to have the first International Clubbing Show in Monaco! Some of the world’s best DJ’s will be out in force, and it’s a great excuse to hit the city’s fine clubs. There’s also a host of big names performing in Nice, including Yodelice and the Mighty Diamonds. Enjoy!
Friday 5th @ Salle Grappelli/Cedac de Cimiez NICE Medric Collignon – Jazz 16€ Wednesday 10th @ Théâtre Lino Ventura 6 rue Defly NICE Yodelice – Soul Folk 14€/11€
Monaco International Clubbing Show From the 11th to the 13th of November, Monaco will be transformed into the world’s largest dance floor, as famous DJ’s from across the globe come together for the first exclusive international nightlife rendezvous! Joining German sensation Boys Noize and New-York based Dennis Ferrer, are French DJ superstars such as Bob Sinclair and Joachim Garraud. Rising talent in the industry will also have a chance to strut their stuff. The Monaco International Clubbing Show will take in two categories. During the day, the Grimaldi Forum conference venue will be filled with exhibitions, activities, conferences and networking opportunities. From 11pm to sunrise, the world’s best DJs will perform in the Prinicipality’s top venues. This is one DJ event not to be missed! Boys Noize, Bob Sinclar, Avicii, Dennis Ferrer, Joachim Garraud, Chuckie, Dimitry Vegas & Like Mike, Tooroom Knights, Fe Adz, Yolanda be Cool, DJ parties at the Grimaldi Forum, Sass, Zest, Brasserie, Black Legend, Jimmy’s and more, every night from 11pm till late.
ud
Boys Noize
a
im ch
Jo
ra Ga
Friday 12th @ Théâtre Lino Ventura Justin Nozuka – Soul Folk 14€/11€ @ Salle Grappelli/Cedac de Cimiez Push Up – Rap’n’Soul 15€/13€ Friday 19th @ Salle Grappelli/Cedac de Cimiez Christian Vander – Jazz & Blues Avicii
Thursday 25th @ Théâtre Lino Ventura Mighty Diamonds + Linval Thompson – Roots Reggae 18€/16€ Saturday 27th @ Le Volume DJ Gunston + DJ Seed Wednesday 30th @ Salle Grappelli/Cedac de Cimiez Bibi Tanga & The Selenites – Jazz & Blues 16€-14€
@ Théâtre Lino Ventura Moriarty – Folk Pop 22€ December 2nd @ Théâtre Lino Venture Horace Andy – Reggae 18€-16€
Dennis Ferrer
DONT FORGET TO CHECK OUT LE GUIDE ESSENTIAL EVERY FRIDAY @ 10PM ON RADIO MONACO 95.4FM OR STREAM IT LIVE WWW.RADIO-MONACO.COM WITH TRIS KAYO
Pub Guide Authentic Irish Bar/Restaurant Vieux Nice & Nice Port
Vieux Nice 2 rue Saint François de Paule Tel: +33 (0)4 93 80 23 87
Nice Port 5 Quai de Deux Emmanuel Tel: +33 (0)4 92 27 07 88
www.ma-nolans.com
Pub Quiz - Mon @ 8pm - Vieux Nice - Thurs @ 8pm - Nice Port Food served all day, Wifi, Terrace Happy hour 5pm-8pm NEW: Riviera Comedy Club @ the Port 6th Oct Live music most nights Jazz Sundays, Karaoke Fridays - Nice Port
International Bar & Restaurant
15 rue de la Prefecture, Nice www.waynes.fr
Blue Whales
Pub/Bar
Food served non-stop 12pm-11pm Live international bands from 10.30pm DJ until close - 2am Terrace, Wifi, Big Screen TV’S & Projector Happy hour 5pm-8pm NEW: Sunday Brunch Tel: +33 (0)4 93 13 46 99
Late Night Music Bar Happy Hour 6.30pm-12am Pool table Big screen TV’s Live Music every night till late Open until 4.30am
1 rue Mascoinat, Vieux Nice
Check Point Irish Disco Pub 2 rue Desboutin, Nice open 4pm - 2.30am www.checkpointpub.com
Irish Disco Pub Monday: Ladies Night Tues & Thurs: Happy Hour all night Wednesday: 2euro shots Sunday: Cocktail night Happy Hour: 4pm-9pm Live music every Tues, Thur, Fri & Sat DJ, Wifi, Live sports
American Bar/Restaurant Live music Open-Air Cocktail Bar Terrace Open 7/7, service non-stop Wifi 8, place Charles Felix 06300 Nice Tel: +33 (0)4 93 80 00 50
20
Gastro Pub
Open everyday 12pm-12.30am Kitchen open until 11pm 4.50euro pints all day Happy Hour 8pm-10pm Fresh menus changed daily Corner of 22 rue Droite & 5 rue Rossetti Tel: 04 93 80 43 22
Through the Lens
Were you snapped by our photographer while out and about at one of our favourite bars?
Riviera Pub Crawls
- Discounted drinks all night - Free shots all night Meeting place: - Meet fellow party people - 6 Great Bars Ma Nolan’s, - 1 Huge Party Vieux Nice - only 10€ @ 9pm
1 NIGHT, 1 BIG PARTY - Friday 12th November! 21
CINEMA RELEASES
HARRY POTTER
Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows - Part 1
The 7th and final adventure in the Harry Potter film series begins as Harry, Ron and Hermione set out to track down and destroy the secret to Voldemort’s immortality and destruction – the Horcruxes – without the guidance of their professors. Meanwhile, the long-feared war has begun, and Harry, the Chosen One, is being hunted. In his search for the Horcuxes, Harry uncovers an old and almost forgotten tale – the legend of the Deathly Hallows. And if the legend is true, it could give Voldemort the ultimate power he seeks. No longer just a boy, Harry Potter is drawing ever closer to the task for which he has been preparing since the day he first stepped into the Hogwarts: the ultimate battle with Voldemort. Directed by David Yates, who also helmed ‘Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix’ and ‘Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince. Part 2 is due for release in July 2011. November 24
FAIR GAME
November 3 November 3
Fair Game is a riveting action-thriller based on the autobiography of real-life undercover CIA operative Valerie Plame (Naomi Watts), investigating the existence of weapons of mass destruction in Iraq. Her husband, Diplomat Joe Wilson (Sean Penn) is called in to substantiate a sale of enriched uranium to Niger, but the evidence is ignored and the call to war is made.
BURIED
An American truck driver in Iraq awakes to find he is trapped in a coffin with only a cell phone, pens and a lighter for company. Ransom demands are made and an escape plan is hatched. But can Conroy get it together in time and get out alive with time, oxygen and hope running out? Actor Ryan Reynolds has received rave reviews for this role, in what is essentially a one man film.
November 17
DUE DATE
TAKERS
Highly strung father Peter Highman (Robert Downey Jr.) must endure the antics of aspiring actor Ethan Tremblay (Zach Galifianakis) on a country road trip, in order to make it to the birth of his child on time. From the director of ‘Old School’ and ‘The Hangover’, comes this hilarious film about two unlikely companions thrown together for a trip that is as life-changing as it is outrageous. November 10
November 24
A fast, edgy and cool flick featuring the likes of Tip ‘T.I’ Harris, Matt Dillon and Hayden Christensen. Takers revolves around a notorious group of criminals who, for their last and biggest heist, are interrupted by a hardened detective (Matt Dillon) who is hellbent on solving the case.
Dinner for Schmucks
This is a remake of ‘le diner de cons’ - a hugely successful French comedy. Tim (Paul Rudd), a rising executive, is invited by his superiors to a dinner celebrating the idiocy of their guests. Tim rejects the concept until he meets and befriends the perfect guest, Barry (Steve Carell). Directed by Jay Roach. 22
November 10
November 17
November 10
November 10
23
L i ve M u s i c G u i d e BLUE WHALES
The Music: Kyana - Blues & Soul Nadia Scaillet - Jazz Brigitte Dumas - Jazz Amaury Filliard - Jazz Sandrine Destifanis - Latin Jazz Whiskey Finger - Rock Aquarella - Rock Nulber 9 - Rock B Siders - Rock Karma - Rock Bronson - Rock Running Birds - Rock Millionaire - Rock Kevin Joseph O’Hara - Acoustic Pop Rock Awake - Rock Breathe - Rock Fourplay - Pop Rock 222 - Pop Rock Tony - Acoustic Pop Spacecats - Pop Rock
MA NOLAN’S NICE PORT
Mon 01 ... Whiskey Finger Tue 02 .... Aquarella 03-06 ...... Number 9 Tue 05 .... Bronson V 12 Sun 07 .... Millionaire Mon 08 ... Whiskey Finger Tue 09 .... Aquarella 10-13 ..... B Siders Sun 14 .... Millionaire Mon 15 ... Whiskey Finger Tue 16 .... Aquarella 17-20 ..... Karma Sun 21 .... Millionaire Mon 22 ... Whiskey Finger Tue 23 .... Aquarella 24-25 ..... Running Birds 26-27 ...... Bronson Sun 28 .... Millionaire Mon 29.... Whiskey Finger Tue 30 .... Aquarella
Sat 06 ..... Sun 07 .... Sat 13 ..... Sun 14 .... Sat 20 ..... Sun 21..... Sat 27 .... Sun 28 ....
Kyana Nadia Scaillet Kyana Brigitte Dumas Kyana Amaury Filliard Kyana Sandrine Destifanis Band
WAYNE’S 01- 07 ..... 08-14 ..... 15-21 ...... 22-28 ...... 29-30 ......
Awake Breathe TBC Breathe Fourplay
CHECKPOINT Fridays & Saturdays ...... 222 Sundays .......... Tony Wednesday & Thursdays ....... Spacecats
MA NOLAN’S VIEUX NICE Every Fri - Sun ... Kevin Joseph O’Hara
Live Sports FOOTBALL 2nd Nov 3rd Nov 4th Nov 6th Nov 6th Nov 7th Nov 8th Nov 9th Nov 10th Nov
Tottenham Hotspur v Inter Milan Bursaspor v Manchester Utd Valencia v Rangers A C Milan v Real Madrid Shakhtar Donetsk v Arsenal Northern Ireland v England Liverpool v Napoli Bolton Wanderers v Tottenham Hotspur Manchester United v Wolves St Mirren v Rangers Arsenal v Newcastle United Hibernian v Hearts Liverpool v Chelsea Newry City v Portadown Stoke City v Birmingham Manchester City v Manchester Utd Hearts v Celtic
MOTOGP 7th Nov Valencia
RUGBY LEAGUE
4th – 7th HSBC Champions 11th Nov Children’s Miracle Network Classic 11th – 14th Barclays Singapore Open 18th – 20th Hong Kong Open 25th Nov Dubai World Championship
TENNIS 1st Nov
Davidoff Swiss Indoors, Basel Commonwealth Bank Tournament of Champs. Bali 7th -14th BNP Paribas Masters, Paris
CRICKET 2nd – 16th 3rd – 7th 4th – 16th 16th – 19th
Pakistan v South Africa Australia v Sri Lanka India v New Zealand Australia v England
FORMULA 1 7th Nov Brazilian Grand Prix 14th Nov Abu Dhabi Grand Prix
6th Nov
24
England v New Zealand Wales v Australia Ireland v South Africa 13th Nov England v Australia Italy v Argentina Ireland v Samoa Wales v South Africa Scotland v New Zealand
GOLF
RUGBY UNION 6th Nov
England v Papua New Guinea New Zealand v Australia 13th Nov Four Nations Final
Games Wine Quiz
1) On which day every year is Beaujolais Nouveau released to the public? 2) Where is Beaujolais? 3) From which grape variety is Beaujolais produced? 4) Chablis is made with which grape – Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay or Riesling? 5) What is made from the leftover skins and seeds of grapes – Port, Brandy or Grappa? 6) Champagne is made from: red grapes, white grapes or both? 7) All wines have sulfites: true or false? 8) The grassy smell of Sauvignon Blanc is a result of a) aging in an oak barrel b) high levels of sulfure compounds or c) the chemical composition of the soil? 9) The sense of taste is dominated by what other sense? 10) What colour grapes can white wine be made from? 11) Chianti is an Italian wine grape – true or false? 12) Roughly how old are the trees used for the best French barrels: 150, 300, 600 or 1000 years old?
SUDOKU
Every row, column & square must contain the numbers 1 to 9. You may not duplicate numbers in any of these configerations. LEVEL: Medium
7 6 3 6
1
13) In which region is Pauillac, St-Estephe & St-Julien: Medoc, Burgundy or St-Emillion? 14) What do winemakers call unevenly matured grape clusters: Hens & chicks, apples & oranges or macro & micro? 15) Which of the following ingredients emphasize the heat in high-alcohol wines – butter, salt or bread? 16) Who proved that alcoholic fermentation was caused by yeast digesting sugar: Cleopatra, Socrates or Louis Pasteur? 17) Which civilisation was responsible for the spread of viticulture and winemaking across Europe: The Vikings, The Roman Empire or the British Empire? 18) What saved the vineyards of Europe from the late 19th-century scourge of phylloxera: the invention of pesticide, biodynamic farming or resistant American vine rootstock? 19) If you are tasting a wine that has floral, citrus, peach &/or mineral accents, you’re most like tasting: Riesling, Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir? 20) Red wines best match up with which kind of cheese: blue cheeses; soft, strong cheeses; or firm mellow cheeses? Can you find all of the words related to WINE in the box? They may be horizontal, vertical or diagonal, forwards or backwards.
3
9
5
4
2
9
1 8 1
7
4
6 5
3
2 1 5
2 3
1
8
4 9
W O R D
4 6 3
8
Vigneron, Pruning, Veraison, Terroir, Viniculture, Appellation, Grapes, Vines, Riesling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Cinsault, Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Vintage, Cru, White, Red, Gamay, Vineyard, Tasting, Bottle, Cork
S E A R C H
Spot the difference!
Can you find the 6 mistakes in the second picture?
Games answers page 26 25
ARIES
HOROSCOPESNovember 2010 LIBRA
The good news is that the planets are giving you the opportunity to define your deepest values, take control of your life rather than let someone else do so, and wise up to your own sense of self-esteem. After all, if you put a low value on yourself, you can be sure that mother earth won’t raise your price. With a cluster of planets giving you the wow factor, time to revamp your image, strut your stuff and smile at the world. Then it will smile at you.
TAURUS
Do we make our own choices, or is there something that decides for us? Fate and freewill spring to mind this month. The Greek philosopher, Heraclitus, said something along the lines of, ‘your character is your fate’ and if you try to avoid it, you’ll meet it anyway’. Control of your own destiny is imperative, but there are times when meaningful coincidences will show you that as much a realist you are, there is a side of you that yearns for spontaneity. This month, welcome it.
GEMINI
Right now, the planets are pushing your more vulnerable psychological buttons left right and centre. What can you gain from a love affair; will you lose out; how far do you have to go to prove you love, hate or desire someone? Or is someone playing a pretty mean game of manipulation or ‘wait and see’? Now, the last thing you want is to be used or to sit around twiddling your thumbs. You want answers. You want to know the truth. You want to know where you stand. So ask.
CANCER
Thanks to the planetary changes this month, you will have to ask yourself some very important questions. Mercury says, ‘be more flexible’, Jupiter says ‘take the odd risk, don’t let life pass you by, don’t avoid it’, and Saturn, well Saturn says ‘remember the best kind of relationship is one where your love for each other is greater than your dependence on each other’. And at last you begin to see the light at the end of your personal tunnel.
LEO Mercury’s change of emphasis this month, gives you carte blanche to lead the dance. We listen to music sometimes unaware of the intricate harmonies within the melody stream. And similarly with life. There are times when things are good, others not so good. Rises and falls, cadences and clashes. Throughout November, Venus also give you a need for passion, the operatic performance of it all, but also the stillness and serenity of agreement. Make peace with yourself.
VIRGO
Do I bend and bow to others, or do I stand up for myself? This month, Jupiter says, ‘let’s just do things how others want to do them, I don’t mind.’ But you do. And to diminish your own responsibility for your needs and desires means you’ll get walked over and then feel bad about it. So, this is your chance to take responsibility for your personal wants and wishes. In fact, it’s time to reinforce your self-esteem and think carefully about your feelings before you agree to something that goes against your instinct.
As much as you love them, your admirer or partner can sometimes be more unpredictable or unreliable than even you. This month, you could find you’re tearing your hair out about nothing, when arrangements are broken, people just don’t turn up, or you find yourself at the wrong venue. Put it down to the fact that everyone is just as restless as you. And quite frankly, isn’t it more fun when things sometimes don’t go according to plan? That means new departures await you too.
SCORPIO Ok, you’ve been through enough already to go through it all again. So why not settle for a simple life, and find a partner who never raises their voice, never gives you cause for suspicion and never, ever, ever, looks at another member of the opposite sex? But then again, wouldn’t that be totally contrary to your deepest needs in love? Maybe the intense feelings, theatrical love affairs, torrid emotions and cauldrons of swirling passions are actually the very stuff you’re made of? Let it all flow.
SAGITTARIUS
This month, live out your passion and be true to your soul. Professionally, you’re on a high and you’re stirred into action. Negotiate, discuss, demand a little, pour your tales of worry and fears into the horse’s mouth - for heart and soul engaged in the expression of who you are, is now your right. There is room in the world for those who want to make of their life anything they wish. And that’s you.
CAPRICORN Sometimes, the most fascinating moments we have, are those spent with virtual strangers. No hidden agendas get in the way of who, or what, we are or have been. And this month, the speed at which you become close to someone new is both exciting and frightening. You may consider cooling your heels just a little bit, or at least until you’ve got to know their faults as well as their finer points. Better to slow down now, than to regret having said too much, too soon, later on.
AQUARIUS If we are too afraid to give of ourselves, then rarely are we given much back. If we are too fearful of taking a risk, then we don’t get very far in any game. You may try out different relationships, play many games and have unprecedented optimism in ‘this is it’. But, and the only but I’m going to remind you about this November, is if the enthusiasm wears off and all returns to so-called ‘normal’, your inner spirit will be driven to find a totally new departure. Take care.
PISCES
There’re two kinds of lovers. One who sees each new love affair as a mountain of insurmountable problems, the other who sees each love affair as a mountain of opportunity. And I’m sure you know which is you. This month, you have decisions to make and answers to resolve. But use Jupiter’s changing influence to consider clearly and frankly what you truly want. In the coming months, there are some huge life-changing and love-changing patterns up there in the heavens.
Sarah Bartlett
One of the U.K’s leading psychic astrologers & best selling author Private consultations available Tel: 06 24 60 65 50, sarahbartlett043@gmail.com, www.rivierapsychic.com
USEFUL CONTACT NUMBERS AND ADDRESSES AIRPORT Nice-Cote d’Azur Airport Switchboard: 08 20 42 33 33 Lost & Found: 04 93 21 31 11 Nice Airport busses & shuttles 08 20 42 33 33
EMERGENCY NUMBERS General Emergency 112 Riviera Medical (English) 04 93 26 12 70
24-HOUR PHARMACIES (Closed Sundays from 7pm) MECHANICS/BREAKDOWN SERVICE Pharmacy Massena, 7 rue Massena Pharmacy Riviera, 66 av Jean Medecin Help Dépannage +33 (0)4 93 89 80 89 Nice Dépannage + 33 (0)4 810 06 24 24 TAXI 04 93 13 78 78 QUIZ 1) 3rd Thursday of November, 2) Rhone Alpes, 3) Gamay, 4) Chardonnay, 5) Grappa, 6) Both 7) True, 8) The chemical composition of the soil, 9) taste, 10) All colours, 11) False, 12) 150, 13) Medoc, 14) hens & chicks, 15) Salt, 16) Louis Pasteur, 17) The Roman Empire, 18) resistant American vine rootstock, 19) Riesling, 20) Firm, mellow cheeses.SPOT THE DIFFERENCE 1) Shampoo bottle near foot, 2) black top on upper body, 3) bath tap, 4) ¬longer hair, 5) finger longer 6) white line bottom bath missing
26
2
9 7 6
1
8 3 5 4 2 1 8 9
6 8 4 9 3 5 7 5 3 1 4 7 2 6
8 6 9
2 4 3
1 7
5
4 1 2
5 8 7 9 3 6 7 5 3 1 6 9 2 4 8 9 2 8 3 5
1 7
3 4
1
4 6 7
6 8 2 4 5 9 3 5 7 9 6 8 1 2
MONEY EXCHANGE American Express, Nice Airport Change Méditerranée, 17 ave Jean Médecin Confima, 2 rue de France Travelex, 13 av Theirs PUBLIC UTILITIES France Telecom Domestic - 1013, Business - 1015 English service Mon-Fri 08 00 36 47 75
EDF (Electricity) 08 01 13 11 33 GDF (Gas) 08 10 09 36 63 Water 08 10 76 97 69 ENGLISH SPEAKING GP Dr Chawki Elias Centre Medical 7 bd Pierre Sola 04 92 00 44 00 ENGLISH SPEAKING DENTIST Dr Nicolas Colson 4 ave de Verdun 04 93 87 86 69
FASHION PAGE FEATURE STORES:
Caprice Vintage Shop, 12 rue Droite NICE Carre Prive, 15 Avenue Notre Dame, NICE Galeries Lafayette, 6 avenue Jean Médecin, NICE Mademoiselle, 41 rue de France, NICE
Front cover: Model: Carole Haddouk Photographer: David Winch Editor: Nicole Aspradakis
Un Homme et son Groupe
vers un seul objectif : la perfection