That's Beijing - April 2015

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4 00 8 2 0 8428 城市漫步北京 英文版 04 月份 国 内 统 一 刊 号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press

ISSN 1672-8025

april 2015

T h e h i s t o ry b oy s t h e g r e at fa m i n e retold

o m u nit Jungle is massive ( ag a i n )

A RT B E I J I N G a guide to the mainland's b i g g e s t a rt fa i r

主管单位 ：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 ：五洲传播出版社 地址 ：北京市海淀区北三环中路 31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 刘扬 Liu Yang 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静，李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Senior Editors Oscar Holland, Will Philipps, Karoline Kan, Marianna Cerini Assistant Editor Vivid Zhu Designers Tin Wu, Xiaoran Li Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Andrew Chin, Jens Bakker, Mia Li, Trevor Marshallsea, Nikolai Blackie, Sophie Zhang, Naomi Goddard, Fahy Yen, Zhao Juanyang, Jacob Sun, Sarah Keenlyside

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editor’s note

DEALS

APRIL It’s an usual editor’s note this month in that I’m handing over the

responsibility to Will Philipps. This month he leaves the magazine after two years of service to begin an apprenticeship in the dark arts [the advertising industry]. Will, who pitched up at the magazine just one month after my own arrival, has acted as my co-pilot for much of that time. As a friend and a colleague, I will be genuinely sad to see him go. From everyone at the team, we wish him the very best of success in his next move. Over to you, Will...

Cheers, Steve! As we put the finishing touches to the last edition of That’s Beijing I’ll be involved with, we’re still waiting for confirmation that MIDI and Strawberry festival will go ahead. Typical, really – two of the biggest musical festival dates in the calendar and the organization is still chaotic.

I went to Strawberry Festival last year. A huge rainstorm came in on the Saturday night and blew away half the site (my passport included, regrettably). The headline act was cut off midset and the whole show finished early. Chaos would be putting it lightly. For a city that likes to consider itself as well regulated as any, disorder reigns supreme.

That’s part of the reason I was drawn to this magazine. Navigating this topsy-turvy city as a writer for That’s Beijing has been a blast. I’m in a college campus for lost laowai one minute, the next I’m at the heart of the world’s biggest national identity crisis. (For more on that, read Chinese millennial Karoline Kan’s analysis of Eric Fish’s book China’s Millennials on page 32.)

My two years at That’s Beijing have been a great platform for a China odyssey – thanks to all involved. It’s a small publication in a sea of countless – in print and online – but I look back with great pride on the progress we’ve made. I was lucky enough to have an absolutely dynamite team to help me – praise is due for all, but in particular Stephen George for steering the ship so well (and not losing his shit when I handed in some extremely rough copy). I think we all agree that Beijing is an engrossing city and it deserves an engrossing magazine – I have no doubt that the team I’m leaving will continue to make one.

That this note is being written at midnight, hours before deadline, is befitting of the pandemonium here, but Beijing wouldn’t have it any other way. There can’t be many jobs where you can lunch with a Michelin-starred chef, interview racist dancing grannies, then down Tsingtaos with some touring US wrestlers all in the same day… and still find time to write it all down. That’s Beijing, I guess.

That’s Beijing readers can save money on entry tickets to Art Beijing this month.

Show a copy of this magazine when you buy a ticket at the door and pay RMB80 for all exhibitions (standard price RMB100) or RMB40 for a single exhibition (standard price RMB50). Turn to page 34 to find out more about Art Beijing.

F O L L O W U S ON SO C I A L M EDI A

T hats_Beijing

Stephen George Editor-in-Chief

t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s _ B e i j i n g facebook .com/pages/ T hats-Beijing

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Q U OTE O F T H E M ONT H

“Since 2009, I make resolutions every year that I try very hard to follow. For 2015, it was to make history” Miami party-rap superstar Pitbull, page 24

6 CIT Y

8 football focussed China sets its sights on the beautiful game

1 4 B ATTER Y POWERED Tesla E-cars in need of a recharge in the Mainland 15 urban dictionary Renxing want it and they don’t know why

14

1 6 LIFE & ST Y LE

1 8 SPRING ST Y LE Denim’s back (again) – we help you wear it right 20 under where?

Luxury lingerie lifts off (yes, we have photos) 2 2 SCENE & HEARD The best of Beijing’s latest openings

20

2 4 ARTS

2 4 HAIR ( LESS ) OF THE DOG Club anthem king Pitbull likes to party, it seems 2 5 CAN VASSED Metamorphosis through papercutting

3 2 IN A B IG POND Eric Fish meets our own Chinese Millennial

32

5 0 EAT & DRIN K 5 2 HOLY GUACAMOLE A Mexican food pilgrimage to Chicago

5 4 CHARCOAL Beer and BBQ: let’s get Shunyibriated 5 9 N B EER PU B Craft beer: opium for the friendless 4 | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

54

THE WRAP 40 ART, WHAT IS IT GOOD FOR? We travel to Art Basel Hong Kong with some of Beijing’s leading young artists

3 4 ART IS LONG , LIFE IS SHORT We preview Art Beijing, the Mainland’s biggest art fair

2 8 SCHOOL OF HARD ROC K S We meet the young musicians (and their head teacher) at Beijing’s Midi School of Music w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 5

THE BUZZ E MP E ROR ’ S N E W CLOTH E S Part hollow man, part Dongbei pajamas – an unidentified model sports an avant-garde design by Hu Sheguang at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

RA N D OM NUMBER

…that’s the value, in RMB, of the 11 watches stolen at the point of a plastic gun in downtown Beijing. The suspect, 38, made his escape from Wangfujing’s Cartier store in a hijacked taxi, though he was apprehended just over 20 minutes later. Police have reported that the man, who is understood to be Malaysian, blamed his actions on financial difficulties.

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S E L F I E STIC KS F OR B I D D E N i N F OR B I D D E N CIT Y The Palace Museum is the latest major tourist site in China to ban the use of selfie sticks. While some may construe the move as an attack on hollow narcissism, officials have put the decision down to more practical worries.

Deputy Director of the Palace Museum’s tourist reception, Shen Lixia, told China Daily: “Selfie sticks will cause safety concerns, whether for tourists or the exhibits.

It may touch the glass exhibition case and cause damage to the cultural relics.”

The taking of pictures is still permitted, though visitors will be required to use their arms or the assistance of fellow sightseers.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

As k a L ao be i j i n g

Archeologists have unearthed one of China’s largest tomb complexes in Daxing, south Beijing. The 70-hectare site is home to 129 ancient tombs, thought to have been built during the East Han, Tang and Liao Dynasties from A.D. 25 to 1125. Although first discovered to be of historical significance in 2010, the site’s most recent find was made while digging for a planned residential complex. One of the tombs belonged to Han Xiandu, whose ancestral home was at the Lelang commandery, located in modern-day Pyongyang, on the Korean peninsula.

We met 65-year-old Zhao, a deputy director at the retired personnel department of Beijing Jiaotong University, during the Chinese Basketball Association (CBA) finals.

Q u ot e o f t h e M o n t h

“The government is taking action to give back the blue sky to our people, and we are confident of achieving that” An official from the Winter Olympics Bid Committee, Wang Hui, on ramping up the battle against pollution if Beijing hosts the 2022 games. Action taken toward achieving ‘Olympic Blue’ (a sky color believed to be similar in shade to ‘APEC Blue’) is hoped to strengthen the capital’s bid against the only other remaining candidate, Kazakhstan’s Almaty.

PHOTO BY NOEMI cassanelli

O N E F OOT I N TH E GRAV E

What do you think of the Beijing Ducks basketball team?

“I think the Ducks played quite well this season. In the finals [against Liaoning Leopards], the team with the better defense will win, as both teams know their opponents’ attacking style well. But that is not enough.

Beijing has something Liaoning doesn’t – a kind of spirit that has developed in the team over the years, a spirit that unites its members to get them through the most difficult of times.

First of all, Beijing plays as a team. On the court, they play better thanks to the spirit of teamwork. All of the players hold together with an extraordinary rigidity, including the foreign players. Lao Ma [Stephon Marbury] is definitely the backbone of the whole team. The other players – as well as all fans of the Ducks – appreciate and speak highly of his vital role in the team.

The players acknowledge Lao Ma’s experience and leadership, because they have benefited from it many times. In the first game of the finals, five Beijing players scored over 10 points – with ease, I may add – while Liaoning’s key player, Lester Hudson, got far fewer than he should, thanks to Beijing’s tight defense.

The second and most important part of the Ducks’ spirit is persistence. In this respect, the team has been so positively influenced by Lao Ma. In victory or defeat, he never gives up and keeps fighting until the last second.

This is rare and precious because many players lose that ambition, refuse to keep running or waste the last few seconds of the game when they realize it’s too late to overtake their opponents. It’s nothing to do with physical fitness but rather it’s their mental limits.

I think all other sports teams should learn from this kind of spirit, especially the Chinese national football team. Why do other countries like South Korea and Japan always win the Asian qualification to participate in the World Cup, while China can’t? It is not a coincidence that they beat China all the time. Perseverance is the key.

When [Japan and South Korea] face the Chinese team, they always show more tenacity than us. But Chinese teams get easily flustered after losing early goals. When that happens, they will lose it all.”

As told to Fahy Yen w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 7

ci t y | ta les

TALES OF THE CITY

The Long Ball Game

Xi Sets Sights on the World Cup The facts speak for themselves: a lone World Cup appearance, a lowly FIFA world ranking of 83 (that’s two ahead of Cyprus), only three Chinese players in top flight European leagues… China’s track record with football constitutes a hefty loss of face for its fans, if not a complete national embarrassment.

To see the Chinese national team one day win the World Cup is the “ardent wish of the whole nation,” according to the state-owned Xinhua news agency. Wishful thinking, or the first step to a major shift in world football? In the Olympics remember, China went from also-ran to the top of the medals table in the space of a generation. Who’s to say football can’t be similarly improved?

In February, the State Council General Office announced plans to develop “a management system with Chinese characteristics,” an intriguing proposition that promises to 8 | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

completely revamp and upgrade the coaching infrastructure at grassroots levels.

According to the bold government-backed plan, by the end of this year, China will add an extra 1,000 schools to the current 5,000 elementary and middle schools where football is on the curriculum. By 2025, those schools will number 50,000. The campaign aims to get 50 million people actively watching and playing football by 2025. The eventual goal, it states, is for China’s male team to be Asia’s best and its female team to top the world rankings.

Also included in that plan is the more realistic target of China hosting a World Cup. Perhaps renewed hope was sparked by China’s unexpectedly good run in January’s Asian Cup, where they topped their group and were knocked out by eventual winners Australia.

Or maybe the orders came right from the top – Xi Jinping has professed his anguish at

his nation’s ineptitude and has made no secret of his dream to see China lift the World Cup. He is even reported to have said that babies should start being coached straight away. The president’s graft crackdown has extended into the national leagues and under his leadership the sport has even been included in schools’ national curriculum.

It will be some time before that new generation reaches maturity, however. In a society where many see sport as a distraction from academic studies, serious football training will need to be accepted as a worthwhile pursuit for kids. ExEngland international Ledley King has coached in Beijing as part of the Football Dream campaign, which handpicks outstanding young players to train at European academies.

“The enthusiasm was there, but development is needed,” he told us, during a recent interview.

“The coaching is still a long way

off the West… good lads though.”

Others still doubt how effective the reforms will be, especially in cities such as Beijing, where few schools are equipped with football pitches – and ball sports are forbidden in public spaces. Sports writer Zhao Zhen went deeper still in an editorial on ifeng.com: “I think people are too rushed to applaud and cheer for the policy.” He expressed a need for reform across all sports, doubting whether football alone is transparent enough to support change. “We can’t expect too much for football, when the whole sports system is struggling in the swamp of an all-state system.”

But overall, reactions to the plans have been positive – even from outside the footballing world. “As someone who is from the realm of basketball I must say that I am very envious of the plan,” confessed superstar sportsman, Yao Ming, in a recent press conference. KK & WP

W.W. C . D . | c i t y

What Would confucius do?

Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom

I’m gay but I come from a traditional family that will never accept my sexuality. I am turning thirty so my parents are keen for me to get married and are constantly setting up blind dates for me. But I wouldn’t be able to live with myself if I were to deceive a girl into marrying me, as it would ruin us both. I’ve been making up excuses to avoid these dates as often as possible but I can never solve the problem completely. What should I do?

I respect your bravery because you have decided to explicitly reaffirm your sexual orientation rather than fooling yourself and marrying a girl you can’t love, which is still common in China.

I’ll be frank with you – according to Confucius, filial piety is one of the most important virtues required to keep ethical order within society. The responsibility to have children is a fundamental element of how he defines filial piety. Having no descendants is described as one of the gravest offenses to traditional Confucian values. The famous Confucian scholar Mencius once said: “There are three ways of being an unfilial son; the most serious is to have no heir.”

This was the traditional view, however, and this doesn’t mean that I don’t understand

your situation. I believe that, difficult though it is, you should still be forthright and honest by telling your parents about your sexual orientation. Today we value individual rights. Gay couples are gradually becoming more accepted by people in China. If your parents can’t understand, maybe you can try to convince them by showing them examples of the many celebrities who promote gay rights?

Last year, Apple’s CEO Tim Cook said: “I’m proud to be gay, and I consider being gay among the greatest gifts God has given me.” Other LGBT groups are also speaking up bravely for their cause, such as Li Yinhe, the well-known Chinese sexologist who went public about her transgender lover last December.

But what if people still don’t understand

or accept you? Or speak ill of you, even? You need to learn to stay calm. When Confucius was 60 years old, people around him could not understand his idealistic dreams and joked about him being “a dog that lost his home.” Instead of being irritated, Confucius showed huge amounts of endurance, patience and tolerance towards people’s misunderstandings.

I know it is hard. But you are already in a hard situation and you have no other choice. wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing language and

culture University, specializing in chinese culture. his most recent book is entitled teaching methods

of chinese language and traditional culture . send your ethical dilemma for professor wang to bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

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The Hist boys The Young Filmmakers Intent on Telling the

by Karoline Kan

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fe a t u r e | c i t y

tory s Story of China’s Great Famine

“I was born in 1989; I am sure all young Chinese of my age are familiar with the Great Famine. But to most of our generation – and I include myself in that – it was simply an old tale that our grandparents and parents used to help teach us the value of our current lives.

People my age have no interest, and saw no reason to go deeper into the real history.”

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ci t y | Fe at ure

When documentary film student Shu

Qiao first heard about the Folk Memory Project, he assumed it was just another extracurricular activity devised by his overzealous professor: “Something that would take a few weeks, at most.”

Five years later, with his studies at the Tianjin Academy of Fine Art long since finished, 25-year-old Shu is still very much involved in the project – in fact, he estimates it’s still several years, perhaps even decades away from completion: “It’s become something like my life’s work,” he explains.

The ongoing project began innocuously enough. Shu and 20 other young Chinese film documentary students were assigned the task of entering nearby villages to interview people who had lived through, and had memories of, the Great Famine.

“I was born in 1989. I am sure all young Chinese of my age are familiar with the Great Famine,” says Shu. “But to most of our generation – and I include myself in that – it was simply an old tale that our grandparents and parents used to help teach us the value of our current lives. People my age have no interest, and saw no reason to go deeper into the real history.”

Covering roughly a two year period from 1959 to 1961, the famine is thought to have claimed the lives of 8-10 million people, according to official reports. Shu’s former professor and organizer of the project, Wu Wenguang, himself an established and wellknown documentary filmmaker in China, felt the subject was deserving of further investigation.

“That period of history is discussed a lot by artists and filmmakers, but what was it really like?” he asks. “I found it quite ridiculous, all those artists talking about hardship from the vantage of their comfortable studios in the city. They have no idea at all.”

Despite Wu’s clear motivation, he never foresaw the project taking off outside the classroom – nor the willingness of his students to become so personally involved.

As of December last year, the project has seen 133 young participants from 20 provinces travel to 26 villages and interview 1,220 villagers. A total number of 30 short documentaries have been completed and shown in film festivals in more than 10 countries.

Wu ascribes the success of the project to the villages themselves. Their heroism, as Wu describes it, serves not only to highlight their own history, but helps young Chinese to reconnect with their roots. For Shu, the initial spur was much simpler: “I was very matter-of-fact about it, I wanted to discover the reasons behind the tragedy. For example, how much blame should be attributed to natural disasters like drought?”

Over time, however, Shu realized that the real story was not the cause of the tragedy,

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“The whole village is wondering why you don’t find a stable job in the city, but instead come here holding a camera? You don’t understand how devastating an effect this will have on you. You have to think about how the authorities will react. This could change your life dramatically”

Above | shu Qiao interviews villagers in Xupu county, hunan

but the lives of the villagers who survived it – those people whose “stories had never been told or recorded.”

Shu centered his research around his grandpa’s village in Xupu County, Hunan.

With help from a number of distant relatives, he began to piece together a timeline of events.

“1958 was a harvesting year in Xupu, but all the young men had left the village to help smelt steel,” explains Shu, recalling the villagers’ stories. “But since the harvested grain would be shared by the commune, few people left in the village were motivated to help in the huge effort needed to work the fields.”

Shu Qingyou, an elderly distant relative of Shu’s, recounted a number of specific details.

“He explained how villages like his would get caught in disastrous spirals. For example, if a village harvested 400kg per mu [about 1/6 of an acre], the local cadre, in a bid to gain favor, would exaggerate the figure.

The neighboring village, worried they were falling behind, would then announce they had harvested 500kg per mu. It was a vicious circle,” says Shu. “The local government would see the figures, and ask for a certain percentage of the total grain. But even if the percentage was set low, it would still account for more than the villagers could afford to give. Some villages exaggerated their total harvest to such a degree, that they 6 were left with

no grain once the required percentage had been handed in. Initially, the village that submitted the most grain would be rewarded with cows, but over time, this stopped too. Eventually, with no grain being produced, people began to starve.”

In Shu’s documentary Shuangjing, I Am Your Grandson, audiences are witness to the difficulties faced by Shu in asking villagers to recount their experiences. Shu went from door to door, collecting stories and money to set up a monument for those who died in the famine.

“It was very frustrating in the beginning,” says Shu. Among the 10 households he visited during the first day, eight refused to cooperate. “They were angry and confused,” explains Shu. “They asked me: ‘Why are you doing this?’ They thought it was meaningless.

I had to convince them otherwise. So I told them: ‘Almost every family in this village lost family members in the famine. This is a way to honor their memory.’”

The idea of a film focusing on the lives and experiences of individuals – rather than the society as a whole, made many of the participants nervous. In the film, Shu and his grandpa are shown walking together along a small country road, the old man furiously berating his grandson: “The whole village is wondering why you don’t find a stable job in the city, but instead come here holding a camera? You don’t understand how devastating an effect this will have on you.

You have to think about how the authorities will react. This could change your life dramatically.” Although Shu didn’t heed his grandfather’s advice, he does empathize.

“That generation experienced too much tragedy. They have first-hand understanding of the Chinese saying, ‘disaster comes out of your mouth,’” says Shu. These types of difficulties were faced by almost every member of the project.

Wang Haian, a 24-year-old participant from Shandong, explains: “Actually this topic is 2 no longer taboo. I told [the villagers] that in the city there are widespread discussions on issues such as the Great Famine and the Great Leap Forward. But they didn’t trust me.”

Wang likens the process of building trust to “crawling like a worm.” Unlike Shu, who completed his initial documentary in less than a year, Wang spent three years chatting with villagers, helping them to farm and showing them his footage, while repeatedly explaining the meaning of the work.

In 2014, four years after Professor Wu first launched the project, the aim was widened to include other historical topics such as land reform, the Cultural Revolution and the Great Leap Forward. Many participants have been so moved by their experience, they have begun funding drives to help construct village libraries and healthcare foundations.

Wang is currently securing money to build a memorial. “I hope more young people will remember history,” he says, by way of explanation. And changes are taking place too. Both Shu Qiao and Wang Haian spent most of their young lives wanting to move beyond the small towns and villages of their parents.

“I think the idea of moving to a big city and finding a stable job is a dream shared by many young Chinese today. But this project changed my relationship with my village, my parents, my grandpa. The more I learn about the village, the more I realize how little I understood it,” says Shu. Time, is running out, though. Many of the survivors of the tumultuous events of the mid-20th century are beginning to pass away. “Each time someone in the village passes away, a friend will call me and ask for the tape of that person’s video – their interview – to be sent to the village,” explains Shu. “Through death, they have come to find comfort in these videos.”

The result has been a gradual change in attitudes. Now, people contact Shu and request that he interviews them. “It’s a complete reversal,” says Shu. “Recently, the daughter-in-law of an 80-year-old woman called me to ask whether I could interview her mother-in-law,” says Shu. “She told me her mother-in-law has lots of good stories to tell. This type of thing means a lot to me,” he adds. “I guess it’s why we started this thing in the first place – to make it difference.”

w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 1 3

ci t y | Fe at ure

Tesla’s Electric Avenues Begin to Dim Why High-End E-cars are Failing in Beijing

by W i l l P h i l i p p s

As we sit behind the wheel of a gleaming Tesla Model S in a Parkview Green mall showroom, it’s fitting that, outside, a cloud of haze hangs low over Beijing. Electric cars, whether made by American manufacturer Tesla or by one of a handful of Chinese companies, are symbolic of the eternal fight against the city’s pollution problem.

US-owned Tesla, one of the world’s leading ‘pure’ electric car manufacturers, is worth an estimated USD25 billion and growing. Its vehicles are the first of their kind with enough clean power under the hood to be considered a viable substitute for petrol-powered cars. But Tesla’s Beijing showroom, one of 15 centers in China, sees a lone customer enter its doors during the hour we spend there.

Across the Mainland, Tesla is stuttering, with a reported 120 cars sold each month – “unexpectedly weak” sales in the words of founder Elon Musk. Last month, the company fired much of its top-level management in China. So what went wrong?

China is considered a huge market for pure and hybrid electric vehicles, due to the huge demand for cars and an acute need for cleaner transport. The government and big business backs it – fleets of all-electric taxis were slated for some suburbs of Beijing last year, and this year tech giants like Tencent have expressed interest in developing driverless E-cars. So why the drop in sales? The failure has come as a surprise to many, but with Telsa’s standard model costing in the high six figures – and few to no major public incentives – even the cheapest Tesla remains a luxury product.

In the showroom, semi-enthusiastic salespeople talk us through various specs and the practicalities of electric car ownership. In China, the Model S has been on the market since April 2014 and retails for RMB648,000 (in the US it’s USD70,000, a little over RMB400,000, comparable to brands with well-established appeal, like Audi or Porsche).

Much like an ordinary smartphone, the Tesla is charged through 1 4 | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

a single power cable. According to the sales spiel, owners are able to use an adapter to plug the car directly into their garage mains or top up at one of 100 charging stations around Beijing (great, if you happen to own a garage or live near a charging station, not so good if you don’t).

China aimed to be home to 500,000 electric cars in 2011 but fell well short of the mark – only 6,000 eventually made it onto the road.

The main deterrent was ‘range anxiety’ – fear of running out of power due to a scarcity of charging points. Since 2014, however, sales have begun to rise. The Beijing municipal government last year announced plans to build 10,000 public charging poles across the city, while newly purchased electric cars receive a 10 percent road tax break and bypass the license plate lottery required for new petrol-driven cars.

Forbes reported that according to the China Automotive Technology Research Center, electric vehicle sales were 30 times higher in December 2014 than January 2014, surpassing even monthly sales figures in the US. But while Tesla hasn’t been able to capitalize, China’s domestic electric car manufacturers have. According to the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology, output of electric passenger cars rose 300 percent in 2014 from the previous year. The beneficiaries? BYD and SAIC, whose cars retail for a fraction of the price of a standard Tesla. BYD’s Qin, China’s top-selling electric car in 2014, costs just RMB189,000.

Back in the Beijing showroom, which let’s not forget is located in one of Beijing’s most upmarket malls, the displays of Tesla-branded T-shirts and baseball caps give the impression of being in a sports car showroom with a racing pedigree (we don’t imagine BYD sell many logo-embossed polos). Maybe that’s the point, but even so, Musk’s hope for millions of Tesla cars on the road by 2020 looks hopeful, if not outright fanciful.

c h i ne s e u r b a n d i c t i o n a r y | c i t y

fe a t u r e | c i t y

renxing /rènxìng/

任性

by M i a L i

Definition: adj. used to describe a wealthy person who spends their money in an extravagant and often irrational way.

How to use it: A: My neighbor took out all his savings in cash yesterday so he could sleep on a pile of money.

B: Because why not, right? Everyone should be renxing once before they die. Did he sleep well?

A: He was too worried about the money being stolen to sleep.

B: Ha, not so renxing after all!

Until a few decades ago, opportunities for the Chinese people to fulfill their aspirations – both large and small – weren’t plentiful.

They were either too poor or robbed of the means and liberties to do so. Sweeping generalization, maybe, but you get the idea.

My compatriots of 30 years ago wanted to listen to the Beatles and watch Hollywood movies, but such things were forbidden due their bourgeois nature. They wanted to travel the world, but exit visas were almost impossible to acquire. They wanted to own home appliances and cars, but they were too expensive and supply was too scarce. In fact, there was so little to aspire to back then, that many people simply stopped aspiring. Focusing on what you were actually allowed to do was altogether less painful.

Then things changed.

For a small number of enterprising and lucky Chinese people, the opportunities returned. Despite sky-high taxes, imported cars became affordable. You could fly to the other side of the world and buy enough luxury Italian leather goods to fill the presidential suite of a 5-star hotel.

Now you can devour Hollywood blockbusters and popcorn by the bucket load and own every Beatles album in special edition (even Yellow Submarine). They’re making up for lost time and then some.

Renxing is a word to celebrate those people. Literally meaning ‘to indulge one’s every whim,’ renxing is a new and exciting philosophy for the so-called fledgling Chinese middle class. They know it’s childish, immature and decadent to a fault, but they don’t care, because the way they see it, everyone deserves to be renxing at least once in their lifetime.

It’s renxing if you do whatever the hell you want – reason be damned!

It is buying up all the tickets in the cinema so you can have it to yourself. It is splashing out on a yacht when you live 500km from the coastline. It is buying 52 new iPhones to make a deck of playing cards. It is showing up at a prestigious university in New England with a bag of money and demanding your kids be enrolled.

Renxing is decades of pentup aspirations erupting from the depths of China’s unsettled past. The era of Chinese scarcity is gone and has been replaced by a period of excess. (Hooray?)

By day, mia li is a news

reporter in Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 1 5

style radar

LIFE & STYLE Cov e t

Under the lens

Cray Cray for Prints

Cavalli’s New China Girl

Patterned clothes and playful motifs are all the rage these days – so much so that, often, anything lower down the food chain than a leopard spot looks meek. Whimsical, bold and China-inspired (its name is ‘Acupuncture’) this men’s shirt

by Shanghai brand Batabasta is right on trend. Embrace it boys – you’re going to look rad.

RMB800.

New China Girl is the name of Roberto Cavalli’s latest collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week last month.

The Italian designer looked east for his Autumn/Winter 2015 line, presenting a sartorial vision influenced by the modern spirit of China, such as Ming-vaseinspired floral prints on dresses and skirts, rather than the hackneyed cliches. Other traditional Chinese elements shone throughout the lineup: coats, trousers and dresses featured gold pagoda buttons while long overcoats sported cloisonné-enamel-inspired linings.

Maggie Cheung’s turn in Wong Kar-wai’s In the Mood for Love made an appearance too, inspiring a modern windowpane check incorporated on quite a few garments. Sitting in the front row was Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon actress Michelle Yeoh. That’s what we call a collection with purpose – a very, very obvious one.

> batabasta.com, contact them directly to order

S p ot l i g h t

to use light colors to naughty things up.

Mario Duyuchen, Fashion Designer

If you could dress a style icon, who would that be?

Can I say myself?

Rainy Pop Design collection Seletti Wears Toiletpaper ranges from quirky to raunchy to surreal – it’s just overall badass. An example? This ultra-pop ‘lipstick’ umbrella.

Boasting bold advertising graphics from the 60s, it’s sure to make you stand out in the rain and have you wishing for a downpour. RMB380. > www.10corsocomo.cn

What’s your background?

I spent my childhood in Jeju Island, South Korea and moved to many different places growing up. I studied art and design at the Accademia di Belle Arti in Rome and, after graduating, joined the World Luxury Association as a PR. I left that job for more fashionoriented roles – as fashion director for a bespoke Dutch men’s suits company and as fashion host for the Trend Group. I decided to go solo last year, and launched my first collection here in Beijing last December.

What brought you to Beijing?

The desire to study modern Chinese literature.

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For your debut fashion show, you had ‘real people’ rather than models walk the runway.

Why is that?

I wanted to show that my clothes can be worn by anyone – you don’t have to be super tall and skinny to sport a piece

by Mario Duyuchen. I like to think that my brand belongs to ordinary people – yet when you wear one of my creations, you are no longer ordinary.

Your aesthetic in three words.

Simple, elegant, classic.

How would you describe your style?

I am quite old-fashioned when it comes to style. I like black and white, solid hues and silhouettes. Occasionally, I like

Do you have any advice for the local fashion scene?

Less is more.

> www.marioduyuchen. com

E d i t e d by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i /

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

Mad e i n C h i n a

Lalu

For many, the thought of going organic feels like a confusing and expensive business, whether it’s food, clothing or lifestyle products. But don’t lose faith.

Among chemical charlatans and pricey brands there are still those trusted

pioneers campaigning for products that are authentically ‘green.’ Enter beauty brand Lalu. Founded in Shanghai by Senegalese Adja Lalu (Lalu being a nickname referring to the young proprietress’ dreamy, wild and funky approach to life), the venture

does homemade skincare products that are chemical-free, 100 percent natural and so divine-smelling you might be tempted to eat them instead of smother them on your body (papaya-mango body cream anyone?).

The range spans scrubs, creams and body butters, all made with luxurious ingredients like avocado, jojoba, coconut oil and sweet almond oils.

The entrepreneur is also happy to customize her recipes according to clients’ needs and skin types, and is currently working on a spring selection influenced by cocktails – think Piña Colada and Margaritainspired scrubs. A joy to use, each Lalu treat is also incredibly affordable: scrubs go for RMB88-98 a jar, while body lotions are RMB120/160 each. A wholesome deal all round. > Delivery charges in Beijing range from rmB12-16. to place an order, check lalu's Facebook page, contact

her at lalufood4skin@gmail.com, or add her on wechat (Adjalalu)

ov e r h e a r d

“ F o r a n i n t e r n at i o n a l b r a n d – p lu s add gold into t h e e q u at i o n – a n d I t h i n k t h at co m b i n at i o n i s g o i n g t o a p p e a l i n C h i n a” ...said Chris Jones [somewhat clunkily, we should add], an analyst for research firm Canalys, on Apple’s decision to release the Apple Watch in an 18-karat gold edition.

Priced at about RMB126,800, the timepiece, which goes on sales this month, is expected to tap right into China’s appetite for luxury,

and follows the popularity of the gold iPhone.

According to projections from the tech giant, the PRC alone should push its global sales to 15 million units this year. Looks like President Xi’s crackdown on conspicuous consumption is not worrying the Californian corporation one bit.

w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 1 7

life & style | F e a t u r e

Zara denim shirt, RMB359 > www.zara.cn

Diggin

Levi’s workwear pencil skirt, RMB250 > www.levi.com.cn

Topshop moto indigo selvedge boyfriend jeans, RMB785 > www.topshop.com

H&M denim jacket, RMB349 > www.hm.com

a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m 18 | A

ffa e as thui o rn e | life & style

ng denim

Zara Man jeans, RMB359 > www.zara.cn

Spring‘s Ultimate Style

by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i Diesel denim jacket, RMB1,559 > www.diesel.com

Denim. It stands for the outdoors, freedom, casual and timeless cool. Its rugged, weathered texture makes it almost rebellious – the antithesis of formal wear, the embodiment of a wild spirit.

The enduring appeal means there’s a look for any time of the year, especially this inbetween ‘season’ that’s neither rain nor shine. The pencil skirt. The classic shirt. The skinny jeans.

The fashion establishment has fallen for its ‘hip’ factor too, giving it a dressier makeover.

This season, Burberry sent smartly waisted denim jackets down the runway. Chanel accessorized its models with domesticated denim flap bags.

Here’s our denim edit for the coming months – a perfect fusion of high-low style.

COS denim shirt, RMB690 > www.cosstores.com

Lee denim shorts, RMB790 > www.lee.com.cn

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pushing up

The Lust for Luxury Lingerie in China

by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

“For moneyed women, lingerie is a private, delicious secret“

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f e a t u r e | life & style

Walking through Beijing’s financial

district – past women in trouser suits, crisp white shirts and demure accessories – the casual observer might get the impression that working in the once male-dominated industry involves giving up traditional ideas of femininity for a sterner, toned-down look. What the passer-by doesn’t know, however, is that underneath the uniform, those suited-up women are probably wearing thousands of yuan’s worth of lingerie.

High-end underwear is booming in China. While the luxury sector has seen an overall drop in sales, partly due to Xi Jinping’s austerity measures over freespending officials, pricey undergarments have joined handbags and watches as a must-have item among high-powered women and mistresses alike.

Once known as the world’s lowcost garment manufacturer, China is now becoming a main consumer of luxury lingerie. Total sales of women’s underwear in China totaled RMB124 billion in 2014, of which 30 percent was ‘luxury intimate apparel.’ According to market research firm Frost & Sullivan, that proportion is set to increase by 18 percent between now and 2019, as consumers shift from basics to fashion lingerie.

It is a counter-phenomenon to the slowing pace of other high-end markets and a different, more discreet way to flaunt one’s wealth.

“For moneyed women, lingerie is a private, delicious secret,” says Irene Lu, a designer of custom-made underwear in Beijing and founder of luxury lingerie label Pillowbook. “It offers them a way to splurge without people having to know about it – luxury next to the skin. It’s almost empowering.”

Twenty years ago, Chinese women had a handful of underwear choices: most bought monochrome briefs or high-waisted knickers in bulk, or picked up a pair of cheap bras at their local department store. Wary of looking showy or overly sexy, female consumers would rarely think of indulging in extravagant lingerie. Now, a silk bra or strapless bustier is seen as a fashion statement – albeit an inconspicuous one.

“I spend more on bras and panties than dresses these days,” says 35-year-old Li Yang, a PR account executive browsing the underwear selection at Stella McCartney’s in Beijing’s Parkview Green mall. “Feeling confident in great-fitting lingerie can be a real boost to the ego.

And, in an office environment, it’s less pretentious than sporting an expensive bag.”

“Women have more money,” says Matthew Crabbe, Asia-Pacific research

director for market research firm, the Mintel Group. “With greater spending power, they are becoming more discerning. They are exposed to more brands across a wider range of media, and are now aware of more product and brand choices.”

This has meant healthy competition between local and foreign labels.

Domestic players like Beijing-based brand Aimer (China’s ‘first’ lingerie venture, founded in 1993), Hong Kong’s Embry Form, and Shenzhen’s Enweis and Eve’s Temptation have been offering expanding ranges of racy, lace-laden underpinnings to meet changing tastes and demand, branching into special lines and collections priced upwards of RMB500 apiece.

Western counterparts have since followed suit, with profitable results. In January, Victoria’s Secret made its first foray into the Chinese Mainland, opening nine beauty and accessory shops. During an analyst call last month, Victoria’s Secret’s parent company, L Brands Inc., called China an “incredibly significant market for us in the future,” hinting that it wouldn’t be long before its underwear range becomes available here too.

London high-end lingerie company Agent Provocateur, a pioneer of independent-spirited lingerie in the early 90s, recently revealed that sales across its four China stores were at least 25 percent higher than expected. The label entered the mainland in 2013 with four boutiques and, according to CEO Garry Hogarth, plans are in the pipeline to open 20 more stores in China over the coming years.

Also known for opulent lingerie – silk fabrics, exquisite packaging, feathers and intricate details – Agent Provocateur’s direct rival, La Perla, is performing similarly well. Through sales of items starting at around RMB1,000, the Italian lingerie company’s overall revenue was up 42 percent in 2014 and the brand’s expansion across the Mainland is set to continue with a handful of new openings this year, including a men’s boutique in Shanghai.

“Our Chinese clientele is financially independent and often looking for a new level of comfort when it comes to a bra or a slip,” says La Perla’s Asia Marketing and Communication Manager, Betty Peng.

“They demand value – a combination of quality, service and price – rather than just price alone. In that sense, the market here is becoming increasingly similar to the West, where consumers have a much longer history of buying luxury lingerie.

The gap is getting smaller.”

The market retains intrinsically Chinese characteristics, however.

“Some of our most popular items in China are what we call ‘in-and-out’ garments – sleepwear that can also be worn to the office, underneath women’s suit jackets,” explains Peng. “Chinese women tend to go for that kind of product as they are still very careful spenders. Value for money is one of the main factors influencing local purchasing trends.”

Labels are still experimenting with a variety of targeted marketing strategies.

Over the last two years, the Italian lingerie maker has cast Liu Wen and Ming Xi – two of China’s most sought-after models – in its ad campaigns (pictured overleaf ).

Then there are the yearly Chinese New Year collections produced by both Agent Provocateur and La Perla, which suggest that both brands are determined to adjust their image and cater to local customers.

But interest in luxury underpinnings can not be solely attributed to wealth.

Changes in societal and cultural attitudes, from sex to beauty and lifestyle, have also been pivotal to the sector’s growth. Irene Lu of Pillowbook agrees.

“We are now living in a ‘have-it-all’ society, where women are more confident about themselves and their sexuality and aren’t afraid to experiment with lingerie that’s frivolous or stylish,” she says.

“Underwear is almost becoming a way for them to express themselves. Beneath a boring shift dress, you could be wearing a crimson plunge bra and a thong. There’s a kind of freedom to it that you don’t get with normal clothes.”

Lu’s customers range from twentysomething graduates to women in their 40s. It’s a similar target market – mainly self-employed professionals, CEOs and entrepreneurs – to more mainstream retailers. They choose to buy Pillowbook products (which all start at around RMB1,000) because, she says, “they are living a healthier lifestyle and care for what they are wearing. I also use no padding, and that’s resonating quite well among Chinese clients: educated, modern women no longer care for push-up bras.

They are confident with their bodies. The mentality has definitely changed over the last few years.”

Padded or not, pricey bras and other fancy undergarments are becoming an essential feature of many Chinese women’s closets.

“Underwear is one of those guilty pleasures I can never get enough of,” says Li as she pays for two pairs of Stella McCartney knickers and a silk nightie.

“It allows you to be a different person.”

Then, after a pause: “Agent Provocateur is on this floor too. I think I’ll go take a look.” w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | A p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 2 1

life & style | a r r i v a l s

Scene & Heard wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

3

①

H & M Co n s c i o u s Co l l e c t i o n

H&M is not a big player in ‘fast fashion’ – it’s a giant. In fact, it is second only to Inditex, owner of Zara, as the world’s largest clothing retailer. So the fact that over the last four years it has been positioning itself as an ethical solution to style is, simply put, pretty noteworthy. The Swedish company is strengthening that reputation with Conscious Collection, a line of environmentally sustainable clothes that has become a recurring feature for spring. Launching April 16, the 2015 range has actress Olivia Wilde as its new face, and spans a selection of garbs inspired

by African, Asian and Indian cultures in both cut and detail. Dresses are a focus, along with hand-drawn prints created especially for the collection. Each garment and accessory is made of materials such as organic silk, cotton and linen, as well as recycled polyester, conscious leather and Tencel (a natural man-made fiber). Fresh and oh so spring-ready, this is just the ticket for a wardrobe update as we enter the sunny season. > www.hm.com

②

Patag o n i a

Few labels are sticky enough to withstand decades of trends. Outdoor clothing brand Patagonia is one of them. The Californiabased venture has been around since 1973, offering timeless, simple pieces made with high quality materials, targeting sporty types rather than fashionable ones. Recently, however, the company has become trendy itself (earning the droll nickname “Patagucci” from some of its most committed fans) and inspiring runway looks from both women’s and men’s designers. It’s no surprise, then, that its new flagship Beijing store shows impressive retail ambitions. A sizable space in Sanlitun SOHO, the shop is divided according to accessories (we are really digging their backpack selection), women’s, men’s and children’s collections, with a rustic-meets-industrial vibe throughout the interiors. Within the store is also a small coffee and juice counter and NBeer microbrewery pub (see p59) – sign that the brand is aiming to sell a whole lifestyle concept, rather than just clothes.

> B1 sanlitun soho, Building 5, 6 gongti Bei lu,

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Annakiki is a label someone like Lady Gaga would probably love. Founded in 2011 by Hong Kong indie designer Yangzi, it does garbs that are loud, whimsical and incredibly eye-catching. Playing with ruffles and pop motifs over mesh and voluminous shapes, the vision driving the brand is almost fantastical, a mix between futurism and avant-garde. A far cry from the saccharine sweet pastels usually associated with spring, the spring/summer 2015 line comes in a striking palette of black, red and white, showing structured overcoats and geometrical cuts for dresses and skirts. The brand’s recently opened store in Sanlitun Taikoo Li North reflects this color range, with a stark decor of bright lights and vermilion walls juxtaposed with black ones.

The entire boutique has an edgy, badass feel that shuns sartorial conservativeness and, frankly, makes for a refreshingly interesting approach to style.

> sanlitun taikoo li north, nlg-42, 11 sanlitun lu,

chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 11 号 三里屯太古里北区 nlg-42 号 (6415 2366)

chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路 6 号 sanlitun soho 5 号楼 B1 (8590 0843)

3 1

photo by holly li

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Annakiki

P. O . C . | life & style

LI U 2 6

Portrait of China wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

What do you do?

I work in advertising, but my real passion is drawing – I mainly do Japanese manga and anime.

Give us a style tip.

Wear whatever you want – as long as it’s comfortable.

And a life one?

Mmm… just try to live a happy life. That’s all we can wish for, isn’t it?

w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | A p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 2 3

collage W h at ’ s n e w

Drumroll

Pitbull

All is not well in Westeros. The Lannisters are stacking up debts, Daenerys is losing control of her dragons, the Starks are becoming increasingly endangered and the White Walkers lurk. The carnage resumes when Game of Thrones returns on April 12.

It’s supposed to be available on v.qq.com for paid subscribers, but with recent regulations, who knows.

After releasing eight albums last year, Beijing-based musical madman Djang San is back (again!) with his first release of 2015.

Experimental Electric Pipa sees him playing around with the titular instrument using a variety of pedals. Despite every song being named ‘Experiment’ followed by the track number, the disc is an engrossing listen.

Available at djangsan.bandcamp.com.

In The Porcelain Thief, American journalist Huan Hsu sets out to recover prized antique porcelain that his ancestors hid from Japanese invaders by burying it near their small Yangtze River hometown. Part memoir and part cultural history, the former Seattle Weekly writer explores China’s rich recent history while delving into what it means to be a Chinese-American in the motherland.

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With a new album entitled Globalization, it seems only fitting that Pitbull once again stops by Beijing to perform his incessantly popular brand of Miami party-rap. We caught up with the man himself to discuss sexy beaches, his forthcoming world tour and how to make humble New Year’s resolutions.

Congratulations on your new record Globalization. How does it differ from your past work?

Since 2009, I make resolutions every year that I try very hard to follow. For 2015, it was to make history – and I think Globalization is very much a part of that. Those first albums and hit singles were big breaks for me, but I feel like I have really hit my stride on this album. I have truly become Mr. Worldwide!

As Mr. Worldwide, where are some of your favorite places to travel?

I have a new song called ‘Sexy Beaches.’

I love sexy beaches and I want to hit up every sexy beach I can find in the world. I’ve always believed the party is wherever you and your friends are. Now that my crew and I are in China, the party is right here.

You played some dates in China back in 2013. What’s going to be different this time around?

Well, it’s bigger, better, newer and longer, ha! Last time, we had some approval issues, production-wise, when we toured China [so we] had to adjust it a little bit. This year,

China will get the full show. Personally, I try to bring a little piece of Miami to the audience in every performance. It’s my hometown and it’s part of me. I want to share it with everyone.

Are you excited to be coming back?

This is really a great honor for me to be here.

When I was younger and starting out, I don’t think I ever imagined coming through China on tour, twice. Party!

What’s the wildest place you’ve heard one of your songs playing?

Wildest situation? Heh, you know my motto – single, bilingual and ready to mingle.

Penguins of Madagascar was really successful here and ‘Celebrate’ went viral.

If you could voice any animated character, who would it be?

They should make a Fievel movie – An American Tail: Fievel and Rise of the Miami Kings. I would totally be the voice of a Miami mouse on the up and up.

Beatwise, what are you into these days?

I love anything that gets me excited and makes the crowd want to party! I never want to release something that somebody puts on when they want to chill and relax. That’s not me.

> rmB380-1,680; apr 1, 8pm-late; Beijing mastercard

center, 69 Fuxing lu, haidian 海淀区复兴路69号万事达 中心 (400 661 0151, en.damai.cn)

C a n vas s e d

Charlotte McGowan-Griffin, ‘Metamorphoses’ British artist Charlotte McGowan-Griffin looks at metamorphoses, a theme dating back to Roman poet Ovid and later explored by the likes of Kafka and Dali. Using a variety of techniques, including paper cutting, she not only represents the transformation of one thing into another, but also considers the process as a journey, an interpretation more akin to the German word for metamorphosis: verwandlung.

With her subtractive, monochromatic approach, McGowan-Griffin empowers ordinarily passive paper with subtle intensity. > Free; tue-sat, 10am-8pm; until april 18; Ying gallery, 327 caochangdi art

Zone, cuigezhuang, chaoyang 颖画廊 北京朝阳区崔各庄草场地艺术区327号 (5722 0406)

PHOTO COURTESY OF ying gallery

H ao B u H ao

Hao

Bu Hao

February was a historic month for China, as it topped the global box office market for the first time ever. Spurred on by Spring Festival hits like Chow Yunfat’s The Man from Macau II and the Jackie ChanJohn Cusack blockbuster Dragon Blade, the country’s box office took in a record USD650 million – USD10 million more than grossed in the US.

The third season of House of Cards has landed and China tops the list of its pirates with more than 60,000 downloads and counting. The show was a massive hit for Sohu last year but recent regulations delayed its release, forcing fans to find alternative ways to get their Frank Underwood fix (much like Miss Zoe Barnes would).

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A RELUCTANT REDEEMER If Om Unit Helped Revive Jungle, he’s not Admitting it

by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

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By the mid-noughties, drum ‘n’ bass and jungle were genres that appeared to be in steep, if not terminal, decline. The rise of predictable breaks and club-pleasing hooks – coupled with dubstep’s arrival as electronic music’s pioneering genre du jour – posed a serious threat to a scene that had only survived through its continual ability to evolve. But from the turn of the decade, producers old and new were bringing it back in from the cold.

Among those pushing up-tempo dance music in bold directions was (and is) Jim Coles, otherwise known as Om Unit. His output over the past five years may have flirted with multiple styles, but it is Coles’ experiments switching between full- and half-time tempos – dubbed ‘slow/fast’ – that placed him at the forefront of a new strain of bass music.

In particular, tracks released under a second pseudonym, Phillip D Kick, were widely credited with being the very first to fuse jungle with footwork, the frantic breed of Chicago dance music that began sweeping the electronic underground in 2010. Add into the mix Coles’ own Cosmic Bridge

label – responsible for further promoting the slow/fast sound – and a compelling case emerges for the importance of Om Unit in jungle’s rejuvenation. Yet, I face an immediate problem in venturing this idea to the London-based producer: he seems far too humble to admit responsibility of any kind.

“Mate, honestly, I wasn’t involved, so I’m not an authority to speak on it. I kinda have to take myself out of that argument entirely,” he says, before deflecting attention toward fellow producer dBridge, whose Autonomic club nights, label and podcast came to epitomize the stripped-back sound developing at the fringes of drum ‘n’ bass.

“He is certainly someone who deserves that respect. As for me? The way I see it is: I’m just a fan of the music more than trying to change anything. Sorry to shut you down!”

An inauspicious start to our conversation, perhaps. But a second (and more fundamental) difficulty arises when attempting to associate Coles with jungle’s supposed renaissance – he disputes the very premise.

“I’m always a little suspicious when journalism turns its head towards something and says: ‘Ah, it’s having a resurgence’. I’m like: ‘Well, not really,’” he laughs. “It’s just that people have started writing about it again. It’s been long enough that it can be ‘cool’ again.

“There are people that have been dedicated to [drum ‘n’ bass and jungle] for 25 years. For me, the music’s longevity is down to pioneers who have stayed the course. If you look at any of [today’s] flyers, it’s pretty much the same names that you would see back in ‘95. It’s those people who have dedicated their lives to it and they are

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“Jungle isn’t having a resurgence; people have just started writing about it again.

It’s been long enough that it can be ‘cool’ again” responsible for forming this core.”

It was one of those perpetual flyer fixtures, the scene’s godfather Goldie, who offered Coles a chance to develop his sound.

Om Unit’s second release on the veteran producer’s Metalheadz label – last year’s Inversion – was arguably his most energetic to date, combining lurking bass with flurries of clattering snares. And although still not a pure jungle record, it is the closest he has come to producing one. But rather than crediting the EP’s direction to working with one of drum ‘n’ bass’s most important labels, Coles attributes it to his own sense of unfinished business.

“I had free rein and I made the record as a kind of homage to my own childhood: my troubled teen years,” he explains. “It was a way of reconnecting with that and it was quite healing actually. I started raving when I was 18 – so that was 1998 – and no-one was really playing jungle at the time. I made [Inversion] for that 15-year-old listening to mixes who was too young to really make any serious music or get signed.”

Musical tropes stretching back to jungle’s early roots are evident in the record’s influences. But the genre’s history also transpires in a very literal sense – because as well as providing guidance on the “philosophical aspect” of the record, Goldie gave Coles access to his sizeable sample archive.

“They were sounds there that he’d collected himself from back in the day. There were samples off other records and I’ve even got stems and vocal parts from [Goldie’s 1995 debut] Timeless – stuff I probably shouldn’t have! I didn’t really use a lot – using it like salt and pepper is the best way of describing it – but it certainly helped me to inform the sound.”

We proceed to talk about why footwork never achieved the commercial crossover of electronic scenes before it, and what emerges is a clear difference between our trades. It is the journalist’s inclination to deal in genres, categorizing sound in order to understand and convey it. But aside from

finding such classifications “not important,” Om Unit has avoided sticking in any one camp since his electro-fused breakout The Timps EP. Coles’ reluctance to identify with jungle’s revival reflects his wider belief that music is hybridizing.

“We’ve gone from music evolving in this linear process – from jungle blowing up, to garage blowing up; then a few years later you had dubstep, and then house became a ‘thing’ – to now, where I feel like…” he pauses. “I think things are a lot more co-existent. They’ve sort of shifted 90 degrees to a point where everything is in parallel and I don’t know if time is even that important any more.

I think it’s about individual artists and labels that have a sound and an idea and a belief in a certain aesthetic, whether it is a big-room pop sound or experimental noise. People are a lot more accepting of music outside their own sphere.”

This openness is seemingly shared by the promoters bringing him to Beijing. The Syndicate may have built their reputation booking some of drum ‘n’ bass’s biggest players, but they have shown a recent enthusiasm for widening horizons through genre-defying headliners like Deft and Beijing’s own Howie Lee. It comes as little surprise therefore, to learn that Om Unit’s set at Dada is likely to stray across the spectrum.

“I do have a specific style that I tend to DJ, which is new dubs from myself and by peers, stuff on Cosmic Bridge and some of my back catalogue,” he says.

“I enjoy playing 140 [BPM] as well – so either some classic dubstep or newer stuff on that tip. Maybe some classic jungle and footwork vibes. I mix it up.

It’s usually a journey.”

Free with skyscanner app, rmB50 without; april 11, 9pm; Dada (see listings for details)

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Out by the Fifth Ring Road, next

to the distinctly un-rock ‘n’ roll Beijing Academy of Agriculture and Forestry Sciences, long-haired students smoke cigarettes, instruments strapped to their backs. It’s the first day back at the Midi School of Music. A furious drum solo rings out from one of the rehearsal rooms while, in a nearby classroom, twenty-somethings sit with guitars on their laps, eagerly looking towards their teacher.

Most of the 300 students – along with the 3,000 or so Midi graduates before them – hope to follow in the footsteps of some of the school’s more famous alumni. Troubadour Xie Tianxiao and members of Second Hand Rose were once enrolled here, while music luminaries like Miserable Faith, Yaksa and Nine Treasures also formed on campus. But, for now at least, a more achievable goal is being named ‘Mr. Midi,’ a title bestowed on students who complete all nine grades of the music exam system inspired by Britain’s Rock School.

Although not a guaranteed path to success in this difficult industry, the Mr. Midi system helps young musicians develop their careers.

The successful graduates will have their information posted online, allowing other students to contact them directly for lessons, according to the school’s headmaster Zhang Fan. “We want our graduates to teach students and we are aiming to have 1,000 Mr. Midi’s in China in the next five years so they can teach more Mr. Midi’s,” he explains.

Indeed, a life of rock ‘n’ roll stardom is not necessarily the goal for all, like 25-year-old Bowen Cao, a jazz and funk drummer who plays with the student band Danaotiangong.

From Left to Right | Midi School students Bowen Cao, 25; Lu Cheng, 25; Runze Zhang, 20; and Da Fei, 24

On Campus at the Midi School of Music

by A n d re w C h i n a n d S o p h i e Z h a n g , i m a g e s by Na o m i G o d d a rd

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“they may have studied poorly in school before because they didn’t like subjects like math. But they chose Midi School because they love music”

“I’ve never aimed at becoming a rock star,” he explains. “In my view, when a rocker becomes a star, they have no choice but become a part of the commercial chain.

Music is never about consumption. I am quite idealistic about it – I’d rather be a lowkey musician who devotes all of his heart toward creating music. If people in the field recognize my music, I'd see this as my biggest achievement.”

Since opening in 1993, the Mainland’s first modern music school has helped countless young musicians forge professions of all kinds. Under Zhang’s stewardship, the Beijing Midi School has expanded from a three-month to a two-year program, with an additional two-year option for exemplary students. The godfather of Chinese rock, Cui Jian, was an early teacher here (once leading rehearsals for free) while SMZB co-founders Wu Wei and Zhu Ning discovered punk rock at the school before kickstarting an

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underground music revolution in their home city of Wuhan when they returned.

A passion for music is the school’s lone requirement with Zhang noting that the country’s junior and middle schools lack strong music education programs.

“At every opening party, I tell new students that they may have studied poorly in school before because they didn’t like subjects like math,” Zhang says. “But they chose Midi School because they love music.

They just study and are happy because they found their language and a place to put their energy and passion.”

One such troubled student, 20-year-old guitar major Zhang Runze [no relation], did not finish high school, though his enthusiasm for learning music is evident: “I have never felt more motivated. I hated learning during my high school years, but at Midi I study really hard,” he says.

Others have sacrificed more stable careers

to pursue their passion. Da Fei, 24, who plays gothic rock and darkwave with the band EverKey, dropped out of an international commerce college in his sophomore year to join the school against the will of his parents (a resistance faced by all the students we speak with).

“For me, Midi Music School is a sort of utopia,” he says. “The people I meet and live with here all share a kindred ambition and interest with me. I feel free because everything I talk and learn about are the things I love. When I go back home, people around me only talk about trivial stuff like getting married, earning money and so on. It can be boring, suffocating even.”

With practice rooms open from 8am to 10.30pm, just moments away from the campus residences, the Midi School is a musical haven. Programs cover music theory and composition, with students expected to learn disparate genres, from blues to jazz

Above left | Head teacher Zhang Fan Above center | A student practices drums in the school grounds Below | The school's main building

fusion. But the schedule can be punishing.

Students must pass rigorous tests and dedicate huge amounts of time to rehearsing, says 25-year-old blues guitarist Lu Cheng, who is also a member of Danaotiangong: “We seldom visit downtown areas in Beijing.

We spent most of the time here, learning and practicing. The curriculum is very demanding.”

In their second year, all students must form a band and perform at one of the monthly parties held in the campus’ livehouse. Famed alumni occasionally swing by for intimate free shows and the school’s best bands are rewarded with an even greater level of exposure, thanks to the growth of the school’s own Midi Festival.

Originally a showcase for student bands, it has become a May holiday tradition that set the template for Mainland music festivals and paved the way for competitors like Strawberry Music Festival, JZ Festival and Zebra Festival. After being held on school grounds for four years, Midi hit the big time in 2005 when 46 bands played to tens of thousands in Haidian Park. Growing revenue from ticket sales and sponsorship allowed for bigger bookings, providing the school’s young talent (normally the most recent graduates) with the chance to play alongside some of China’s biggest acts in front of huge crowds.

The Qing Stage is still devoted to student bands from across the country battling in the China College School Competitions. It’s part of headmaster Zhang’s goal that “every Midi Festival has 20 percent new bands.” The standard is high and students like Lu Cheng know that competition for a slot is fierce.

“You have to compose enough songs of high quality and also be good at playing,” he says. “But without any doubt, we all want to be on that stage in the future.”

The future of the festival may hang in the balance this year however, as the school awaits confirmation of the venue. The Public Security Bureau is increasingly strict with licensing large events – an understandable reaction to the New Year’s tragedy in Shanghai – but the headmaster has a backup plan. Although expanding the event helped accommodate international acts like Britpop stars Suede and funk legend/slap bass pioneer Larry Graham, Zhang is ready to bring the festival back to the school campus if need be.

“A lot of young people want that feeling of the early Midi Festivals,” he says. “At the time, it was like utopia. No tickets, very

cheap drinks and the musicians played for free. It was like a big family.

“At least more and more Chinese people have a chance to taste what a festival is like: a relaxed and free place where people respect each other while being cool and happy. And the bands are original and gritty – not Chinese TV pop.”

Nonetheless, the commercial popularity of televised talent competitions has seen the school evolve with the times. A vocal program has recently been added to the curriculum to complement the popularity of the shows, although Zhang notes it’s not solely for pop.

With students hailing from as far afield as Tibet and Taiwan, the Midi brand may also be expanding. As Zhang considers opening a second branch in Shenzhen, a playat-home music instruction book series is scheduled to be released by People’s Music Publishing in mid-May that will assist music teachers across the country.

“Once you follow the series to study, students can play almost any style, from heavy metal to funk to Latin,” Zhang says.

Yet it is a lifelong passion for rock that continues to drive Zhang. Sitting in his office, he gregariously recounts being one of the first Mainlanders to be exposed to Western sounds when his father (who was among the first to leave the country for a research exchange in Melbourne) returned to China in 1981 with two 90-minute cassette tapes of songs recorded from vinyl by his Australian friends.

After months of playing air guitar on a broom, Zhang’s mother bought him the real thing. His teenage years were spent writing music and winning school competitions.

Like many of his students, college wasn’t for him. While he majored in foreign trade, Zhang spent his first postgraduate years “being lazy at home and making music.”

With no equivalent to the Midi School at the time, it was fortune that threw him an opportunity in 1993. It was then that his time spent hanging out at the country’s first music instrument company – the Midi music store – paid off.

“The boss asked if I wanted to be the director of the school they set up,” he recalls. “I agreed because I thought I could use the music instruments for free.”

Rock in China has grown immeasurably since. Zhang uses 14th century classic Romance of the Three Kingdoms as an analogy to describe the transformation: the 1990s were like the Shu Han Kingdom “where there were three big guys,” and its current state is the Cao Wei Kingdom “where there are 200 guys.”

It’s an underestimation – there are believed to be more than 2,000 student bands active around the country. So does this first-generation rocker ever jam with his young charges?

“No, I’m the director,” he says with faux sternness. “To be honest, I’m not as good as the students.” midi Festival is scheduled for may 1-3; for more details as they become available, visit www.thatsmags.com/beijing.

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THE Want generation A Chinese Millennial Reviews Eric Fish‘s New Book, China‘s Millennials

by Ka ro l i n e Ka n

When American journalist Eric Fish started teaching at a Nanjing university in 2007, the then 22-year-old found himself drawn to his students’ stories. Some were just a few years younger than he was, yet the experiences of these so-called ‘millennials’ – a generation to which I myself belong – seemed unique to China.

But as Fish became more familiar with just how good our lives are when compared to our parents’ and grandparents’, he also uncovered the distinctive difficulties we face.

Armed with “fascinating stories that needed to be told,” his forthcoming book China’s Millennials provides a new perspective on a generation that has come to reflect the social changes unfolding in modern China.

Across four chapters, the author analyzes the opportunities and challenges my generation encounter through the real-life tales of those he came to know. He frames their stories around the defining features of growing up in China: from the nationwide college entrance examination, the gaokao, to mandatory military training in school, junxun; from how we choose our future careers to the gender inequalities we face at marrying age.

But as well as considering societal pressures, China’s Millennials is very much a book about this country’s politics. One cannot be understood without the other. And 3 2 | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

believing it to be impossible to coherently write about the wider topic of ‘Chinese youth,’ Fish uses the interaction between China’s millennials and politics as a more precise frame of reference.

“I purposely focused on how politics is affecting youth and how youth are affecting politics, because it is a symbiotic relationship,” he tells me. “The subject of Chinese youth is far too big to comprehensively cover in one book. Even trying to comprehensively cover just the political aspects is perhaps a bit pretentious, but that was what I wanted to narrow my sights on.”

But is this focus misleading, given the pervasive stereotype of Chinese millennials as being largely apolitical? Indeed, Fish himself admits that when he asks young people about politics, it’s rarely high on their list of concerns, if at all. How much of a role does politics really play in our lives?

“Politics is a funny thing in China. The government has done a good job over the past two decades backing away from visibility in day-to-day life, but politics is never really too far away… especially in arenas concerning youth,” Fish explains, using the gaokao – which many people consider totally apolitical – to illustrate his point.

Most high school students obsess over the

“Like Americans [Chinese millennials] have become disillusioned in finding that the realities of adulthood in a post-recession world aren’t quite what they expected”

exams as a necessity for higher education and a successful career. Fish argues that few have any concept of how high-stakes testing has provided a form of social control for Chinese rulers for over a millennium: “It’s hard to escape politics. A lot of big issues that may not seem political actually have very big political implications.”

As well as the gaokao, China’s Millennials also discusses the impact of other major state strategies on young people, such as the One-Child Policy – which has aggravated the gender imbalance and put pressure on children to care for their parents – and the hukou system which keeps rural youth from keeping pace with their urban counterparts.

Fish also addresses cultural challenges, like the entrenched gender stereotypes that prevent women from mirroring men’s economic progress. These problems, he argues, may often stem from China’s success, as people’s expectations outpace the realities of the country’s development.

Fish’s book gives me a chance to reflect on my own childhood and views on topics like education, careers, marriage and the pursuit of freedom. As a Chinese millennial, I experienced most, if not all, of what he presents in his work. I agree that, while many young people in China would not list politics at the top of their priorities, it influences every aspect of our lives.

Corruption too, has a drip-down effect and may lie behind many of the things that we complain about.

My peers and I ignore injustices in our lives but treat unfairness as an inevitable part of the human condition. We know that our routes to success may be blocked by corruption, compromise or the need to betray our original intentions, yet every year millions of us still fearlessly join the “army that marches across the single wood bridge” (as the civil service examination is often described). Most of the time, we notice problems but choose not to challenge them. Instead, we carefully calculate the potential gains and losses before attempting change, or simply try to figure out how to benefit from corruption. Challenges to the status quo are viewed as the actions of the depressed losers who fail to benefit from it.

It is this trait of our generation that I find depressing. But when viewed in a wider context, we may find that the challenges facing the Chinese millennials are shared by our contemporaries worldwide. In 2006, Jean Twenge’s book on American millennials, Generation Me, concluded that our young counterparts in the US are more tolerant, confident, open-minded and ambitious than those before them. But they are also more

Fiction

positive about us than cynical, depressed, lonely many Chinese: “[They] are and anxious. Fish sees definitely starting to speak this parallel as a valuable up more and are becoming consideration. less afraid of pushing “You can recognize change.” a lot of the same “The stereotype, for a tendencies in Chinese long time, has been that millennials today,” he this generation only cares argues. “Like Americans, about money. But that’s they were brought not broadly true anymore. up during a period A lot of youths, especially of economic boom among the growing with somewhat lofty middle class, are starting expectations, but then to care very much about started to become less material things like disillusioned when [they Author of China's Millennials, the environment, various found that] the realities Eric Fish social causes, spiritual of adulthood in a postendeavors and even politics. recession world weren’t quite what they had “There [also] seems to be growing expected. Both young populations are facing empathy for those who’ve been left behind similar problems of higher unemployment, amid China’s growth. These all seem to be devalued college degrees, wealth inequality, positive trends,” Fish says. But he can only lack of direction, lack of meaning and a wonder how they’ll develop in the coming higher entrance fee for the status and the years – as do I. “In recent Chinese history, dreams that their parents had.” positive trends have had a way of being This paints an unpromising picture of abruptly halted from above. Hopefully that’s my generation. So, as someone who grew not how it will pan out this time.” up outside China and has instead observed it from up close, does Fish see hope for China’s millennials? In fact, he proves more

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ARTS | Art beijing 2015

N ational A gricultural E xhibition C enter 全国农业展览馆

VIP preview on April 30 / RMB100 / 16 East 3rd Ring Road North, Chaoyang

4.30预展专场 只面对vip嘉宾和邀请媒体 / 单馆票50元 三馆通票价100元 / 朝阳区东三环北路16号

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Over the past 10 years, Art Beijing has established itself as the biggest (and arguably most important) art fair on the Mainland. And with a yearly attendance of 50,000 this isn’t just a playground for rich dealers.

The three-day event features a heavy focus on homegrown talent, making it something of a barometer for the state of Chinese art, both stylistically and commercially. As the fair prepares to return to the National Agricultural Exhibition Center, we begin with a profile of Art Beijing’s Founder and Director, Dong Mengyang, before giving you our pick of the best galleries and exhibitors from the 160 set to attend.

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Hollan

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With his dark turtle-neck and on-trend haircut – SHAVED ON

the sides and carefully swept to the right – Art Beijing’s Director Dong Mengyang looks every bit the part. In a painting-strewn meeting room at the organization’s Wangjing office, he lights a cigarette and leans to the side of his chair, legs crossed, in a position he’ll assume unwaveringly for the next hour.

Dong could be excused for disregarding humility, given that he founded what is arguably the Mainland’s most prominent and influential art fair. But as the annual event approaches its 10th installment, he’s keen to maintain some perspective on what’s been accomplished.

“I don’t want to talk much about [the anniversary],” he begins with a smile.

“For me, 10 years is too short for us to have anything to say about what we’ve achieved and experienced. It’s just a process for us to grow and develop.”

The fair’s figures may have to speak on his behalf. With over 50,000 visitors last year, Art Beijing is now larger than many of its more renowned counterparts in the West (Art Basel in Switzerland, the godfather of art fairs, attracted only 10,000 more). This year, 160 galleries and exhibitors will descend on the National Agricultural Exhibition Center, displaying their work over 25,000 square feet. And all this in a country with a comparatively fledgling art market.

Art Beijing can take some credit for the scene’s development due, in part, to its focus on young domestic artists. While this year’s exhibition will feature foreign imports such as European antique furniture and Russian oil paintings, it is still predominantly Chinese. Last year, 70 percent of exhibitors were from the Mainland. Dong’s self-professed goal is to curate something unique to China, not simply to reproduce fairs found in the West and elsewhere in Asia.

Investing in domestic talent (and art in the capital specifically) appears to be a genuine part of Art Beijing’s mission.

“I have a teacher who once lived in New York and has now moved back to Beijing. He told me that those were the two world cities he liked the most, because both have so few indigenous people. They are inclusive to various cultures, needs and possibilities. That’s exactly what Art Beijing is doing right now,” he says, while admitting that it will take time for the capital to emerge as a major player in the art world.

“Look at the development of Western art. Take the time from the Barbizon School [19th century realists] to the impressionists as an example and you find that the Roman Empire wasn’t built overnight. Wave after wave of artists and artworks appear and disappear, but they always have a place in history.

Future demand will be driven by education about art history, from classicism to modernism, and it will take a long time.”

But Art Beijing cannot be seen as a purely creative endeavor. The fair is as much a place for business as it is for absorbing the artwork displayed. Deals made over the four days will collectively run into the hundreds of millions of yuan. But the director hastens to stress a distinction from the big-spending crowds at Asia’s other established art fairs (he describes Hong Kong’s arm of Art Basel as “boisterous and meaningless”).

“Beijing is a cultural hub in China that attracts wealthy people and people in the art industry. But there was a lack of ordinary people in the exhibition,” recalls Dong, while maintaining that the RMB100 ticket price is not designed to be prohibitive or profit-making, but simply to set a threshold of interest among visitors (“ordinary people can be too curious about everything and we only have limited time”).

With a focus on young artists and a range of low- and mid-range price tags, Dong claims that accessibility is paramount. He argues that the changing profile of the fair’s visitors reflects a widening appreciation for art in China.

“The biggest change over the past 10 years [of Art Beijing] is that lots of investors are moving out and instead, many individual customers are coming in. That is the right way for the industry to thrive. Investors were just trading the artworks for more money. Now, a group of people have emerged as real collectors. They will hang these artworks on the walls out of a real love for art.

Seeing this, I believe that China has a future,” he says.

“The owner of a gallery in Tokyo told me that after his father passed away, he took out the accounts and found a huge number of transactions happened in 1948, an otherwise bleak year in post-war Japan. This inspired me – as long as there is a group of wealthy people who have taste, there can be an art market.”

But many in China lack the wealth to buy even the cheapest works on display. Ordinary Beijingers have indirectly helped support the fair through funds given by the capital’s Municipal Government – so is Art Beijing truly for them? I am interested to know whether Dong – who has organized art fairs since the early 1990s – agrees with Xi Jinping’s statement that art must serve both the people and socialism itself.

“I certainly agree with him. Over the years however, ‘serve the people’ has become overused and many have become tired of it,” he says. “Maybe I interpret this differently from President Xi as he stands at a higher level.

But for me, it is very realistic.

“You can’t survive if you don’t serve the people. We need to know what people here want. Art Beijing serves this end as well. I don’t think we should just imitate Western styles. We need to have our own things. We envy Western civilization and maybe that is why we fall short right now.”

The fair is certainly responding to changes in taste. Its 2013 event introduced a classical art section – a response to increased demand for ink paintings – and this year sees a new concurrent display for sister brand Design Beijing.

Describing the fair’s selection as “always multi-faceted,” Dong sees the expansion of work on display as crucial for Chinese art’s development. This thinking was behind the decision made three years ago to merge the company’s three fairs (contemporary art, fine art and photography, which had previously been displayed separately) into a single event.

“The Western market has a motley assortment of art forms as a result of its sophistication,” he argues. “There are so many subdivisions. We haven’t arrived at that step so I pulled them together to set up a platform, allowing people to have the access to these artworks and schools.

“We have just got rid of poverty and accumulated some money, so there has to be a process. As the first step, I want to create a unified art market here, featuring Chinese elements and characteristics. Then we can talk about embracing the world as a whole. Meanwhile, it is also for Westerners to understand ancient Chinese culture.”

The regular references to the West could give an impression of insecurity. But over the course of our conversation, what emerges is Dong’s apparent dedication to replicating the success of Western art, not its style. The goal of the fair, as he describes it, is exemplified by the criteria used to select participating galleries.

“Do they really push forward the development of art? Is it an institution that makes contributions to the Chinese art market? These are the only two restrictions.” w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 3 7

A R T S | fe at ure

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艾 米 李 画 廊 A m y L i G a l l e r y / 郭 剑 犀 牛 布 面 油 画 | R h i n o ; O i l o n c a nv a s , 1 5 0 × 1 5 0 c m G u o J i a n 2 芳 草 地 画 廊 Pa r k v i e w G re e n A r t / 夏 航 不 锈 钢 | M r. W h o

( 2 0 1 4) ; s t a i n l e s s s t e e l , 2 0 0 × 1 4 0 × 8 c m ; X i a Ha n g

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东 京 当 代 艺 术 俱 乐 部 / To k yo Co nt e m p o ra r y A r t C l u b | 李 禹 焕 始 于 线 矿 物 颜 料 、 胶 水 画 布 Fro m L i n e ( 1 9 7 9) ;

m i n e ra l p i g m e nt a n d g l u e o n c a nv a s , 1 3 0 × 8 9 c m ; L e e U fa n

d e l a s i e s t e ( 2 0 1 4) ; a c r y l i c o n c a nv a s ; A n s a t u c a nv a s , 1 0 0 × 1 0 0 c m ; Wa n g Fa n s e n g 廊 Ne w Co nt i n e nt a l G a l l e r y / 阿 毛

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天 泽 画 廊 （ 法 国 ） Tre s o r A r t G a l l e r y ( Fr) / 安 萨 图 （ 法 国 ） | 午 休 时 光 丙 烯 画 6 0 × 6 0 c m He u re

季 节 画 廊 A r t S e a s o n s / 王 梵 僧 西 行 小 憩 布 面 丙 烯 | A B re a k o n t h e We s t wa rd Jo u r n ey ( 2 0 1 4) ; a c r y l i c o n

程 昕 东 画 廊 C h e n g X i n d o n g / 师 建 民 宋 徽 宗 | H u i zo n g S o n g ( 2 0 1 4) ; i n k p a i nt i n g , 8 8 × 1 7 3 c m ; J i a n m i n S h i 7 新 大 陆 画

爱慕

纸 板 彩 色 铅 笔 | Ad m i re ( 2 0 1 2 ) ; c o l o r p e n c i l o n p a p e r, 7 3 × 1 0 3 c m ; A m o u 8 玉 兰 堂 L i n e G a l l e r y / 颜 石 林 夏 花 铸 铜

化 学 着 色 & 实 木 | S u m m e r F l o we r ( 2 0 1 5 ) ; wo o d a n d c o p p e r c o l o r i n g , 1 3 5 × 4 5 × 4 5 c m ; Ya n S h i l i n 9 K 空 间 K .G a l l e r y / 庞 茂 琨 镜 花 缘 之 八 布 面 油 画 | F l o we r s i n

t h e M i r ro r 8 ( 2 0 1 4) ; o i l o n c a nv a s 1 6 0 × 1 1 0 c m ; Pa n g Ma o k u n

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北 京 现 在 画 廊 B e i j i n g A r t No w G a l l e r y / 王 劲 松 长 征 摇 滚 纸 本 重 彩 | Lo n g Ma rc h Ro c k ' n’ Ro l l

( 1 9 9 0) ; c o l o re d a c r y l i c a n d g o u a c h e o n x u a n p a p e r, 4 5 × 1 2 0 c m ; Wa n g J i n s o n g

原 曲 画 廊 O r i g i n a l S o n g G a l l e r y / 韩 巨 良 德 国 蒸 汽 机 车 B 1 X H Z- N 布 面 油 画 |

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T h e G e r m a n St e a m Lo c o m ot i v e B 1 X H Z- N ( 2 0 1 4) ; o i l o n c a nv a s , 6 0 × 8 0 c m ; Ha n Ju l i a n g

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S TAT E O F T H E A R T

P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F G a l er i e U rs M e i l e , B e i j i n g

“You have a product and it doesn’t matter if everybody says ‘this is shit,’ you try to convince [collectors] of what it is. That is my job.

It’s not my job to tell the artists what to do”

It is approaching 10pm aboard the last flight of the day from Beijing to Hong Kong. To my right, a smartly-dressed man in his mid-tolate thirties is arguing with a female member of the cabin crew. “Seriously, how can anyone be expected to travel like this… surely you can find me a seat elsewhere?” says the man. The cabin crew member, ever the professional, remains unmoved. Casting around in search of a potential ally, the man leans towards me, gesturing at my seat: “I mean, seriously?!”

I am over a foot taller than my seatmate and afforded considerably less legroom. “It is cramped,” I reply.

The man, his face red and flustered, presses on: “I was supposed to be in first class, but they’ve overbooked… the seats are all filled with art industry people, you know the types.” He pauses to loosen his tie. “They’re all flying in for the Art Basel thing.”

I nod. “Makes sense, I suppose.” The cabin crew member excuses herself and walks away. It is over three hours before we are due to arrive in Hong Kong. I consider closing my eyes and pretending to sleep.

“Bunch of shit though, isn’t it, modern Chinese art?” he continues, not waiting for an answer. “I don’t know why anyone would waste their time with it.”

I shrug and raise my eyebrows in apparent agreement.

“So tell me,” says the man with a smile.

“What are you doing in town this weekend, business, pleasure, little bit of both..?”

“I’m there for the Art Basel thing,” I reply.

There is a pause. The man looks at me quizzically, waiting to see whether I’m joking or not. I am not joking. “You had me fooled there for a minute!” he says finally, his smile suddenly returning. “Hahaha, good one!”

~

If contemporary Chinese art is a joke, it’s difficult to know who exactly is in on it – and who the joke is on. For the first two days of Art Basel’s five-day run in Hong Kong, members of the public are prohibited from entering the fair. Officially, this is known as the preview period – “an opportunity for the press and art world to gain an advanced look at the works on display” – though in reality, the days following the preview are little more than an obligatory appendage. All the real business of the fair – the buying, selling and high-powered socializing – takes place in those first frenzied 48 hours. By the time the public arrive on the Sunday, most of the artwork has been sold – and the complimentary champagne drunk dry.

Founded in 1970 by Swiss gallery owners 41

Trudi Bruckner, Balz Hilt and Ernst Beyeler, Art Basel has grown in size and influence over the decades to become the world’s leading contemporary art fair of its type, with annual events held in Basel, Miami and as of 2013, Hong Kong. Its rise in prominence mirrors that of the ongoing commodification of modern art and its emergence, alongside property, as an exclusive form of global capital. Last year, worldwide art sales totaled 53.9 billion US dollars, a record high, with China – and new Chinese money – accounting for almost a quarter of all transactions.

This coming together of extreme wealth and modern art is best captured in Art Basel Hong Kong’s VIP collectors lounge. It is here, alongside booths selling private jets and diamond jewelry, that minor European aristocrats rub shoulders with newly-minted petty tycoons from China, while sipping flutes of Ruinart champagne. It is also the place where I am due to meet 32-year-old Chinese conceptual sculptor Hu Qingyan (“It’s very anonymous, no one will bother us,” reasoned Hu).

Despite the international platform the fair provides young artists, Hu had seemed largely disinterested in the event when we met in Beijing several weeks ago. During that conversation, Hu had described the

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Hu Qingyan fa r r i g h t

Narrative by a Pile of Clay 81-200 [2012-2013] Hu Qingyan

Hong Kong fair as a necessary part of the modern industry, something that artists “had to do.” (This is the second consecutive year that Hu’s works have been displayed at Art Basel).

Today, Hu appears similarly unenthused. His wife – who had traveled down with him from Beijing – has fallen sick, and not yet left their hotel room since arriving. Hu meanwhile is “very tired,” having spent last night at a party for prominent collectors, organized by his gallery.

Sipping on a coffee and dressed in neatly pressed dark denim, Hu’s sensible appearance – his hair is cut short, his glasses standard issue – is in marked contrast to the absurd, flowery opulence of the VIP gallery. I wonder, does he feel comfortable in this world?

“I think I have the ability to adapt to new environments,” replies Hu. “For me, mainland China is full of all these conflicting elements,” he says, stretching his hands out wide. “It’s a big weird factory in which lots of ridiculous things exist at the same time. People come here to see strange art, but it is reality that is truly strange.”

In person, Hu is sharp and wry, giving him an outsider quality, even among artists. Unlike many young Chinese artists whose careers are accelerated, in part, through family connections, Hu was born to a farming family in rural Shandong. His parents, he tells me, still have no real idea of what he does.

“They understand it in terms of how much energy I have to use. If, for example, I carry something heavy, then it’s ‘work,’ which I suppose is true.”

Nor is the artwork he produces in any way commercially-minded. In a market geared towards the middlebrow tastes of extremely rich men, it is no shock to learn that giant polymorphic sculptures sell for less than paintings of gracious women that can be fitted neatly onto the wall of a luxury apartment. “Most of my works are enormous and heavy,” says Hu. “But this can be a problem for the collectors and eventually affect the sales. Last night a number of collectors asked whether I would consider making a smaller version for them. It’s something I’ve thought about – making smaller pieces – but not for the benefit of collectors. The decision has to be an artistic one and right now, I prefer to work to a larger scale.”

Hu’s sculptures are absent from this year’s fair. Instead, his gallery has chosen to display a limited edition set of 40 photos, depicting his ongoing project: Narrative by a Pile of Clay [pictured right], in which Hu repeatedly molds and remolds a block of clay into varying objects over the course of several months. The piece is valued in the tens of thousands of US dollars, a relative steal, in the context of Art Basel, where most works sell for upwards of several hundred thousand.

“If I was really concerned about money, I wouldn’t 42

have chosen this profession,” says Hu. “You know, there are many faster and easier ways to make money in today’s China.”

It is nearing midday and neither of us have yet to properly appreciate any of the art on display. I suggest that we should maybe take a walk around. Hu agrees and we set out into the second floor of the fair.

Beyond the rarefied confines of the VIP lounge the atmosphere is comparably hectic. Popular booths are crowded, with collectors throwing questions at gallery owners – the majority in putonghua Chinese. “It’s too noisy and too full of people to really appreciate the art” says Hu, moving aside as a stern-looking woman strides past us, gallery worker in tow, talking loudly on her phone about the “wall power” of “good Japanese abstracts.”

“It’s like Toys ‘R’ Us for the global one percent,” I say to Hu. He nods sagely, though I am not convinced he understands the reference.

We walk in no particular direction, through clusters of tanned European men in Giorgio Armani suits and Gucci loafers, and uniformly tall, waif-like women, until we find ourselves at the booth for the Beijing-based Long March Space. Inside, a large number of mainly Chinese collectors are talking furiously – to each other, over the phone, and to the gallery staff.

At the center of their attention, a large painting shows a cluster of arms thrust upwards through a cloud, hands outstretched against a dark blue background. The work, Cloud Layer by young female Chinese artist Yu Hong, is thought to be among the most sought after pieces at this year’s fair.

“How much do you anticipate this painting will go for?” I inquire.

Noticing my press accreditation, the sales representative appears reluctant to offer an exact price. Revealing the valuation of a piece is considered gauche, even at Art Basel.

“It’s a highly desirable work, by an up-and-coming talent,” she explains.

“It has received a lot of interest from some exceptionally renowned collectors, we are very confident of it selling.”

~

With Hu declaring time on his Art Basel appearance, I arrange to meet with the director of his Beijing gallery, Urs Meile.

Prior to my arrival in Hong Kong, an art critic friend had told me, somewhat derisorily, that in China, “galleries are kings, and the artists serfs.” Swiss-born, silverhaired Meile, who was among the very first international gallerists to focus on Chinese art, is often described as ‘Beijing art royalty.’ His self-titled gallery, designed by Ai Weiwei, is one of the few art spaces listed in Beijing guide books and tourist guides. I am curious, how does Meile

P H O T O S ( PA G E S 4 2 - 4 2 ) C O U R T E S Y O F G a l er i e U rs M e i l e , B e i j i n g

below right

S TAT E O F T H E A R T

“If I was really concerned about money, I wouldn’t have chosen this profession... You know, there are many faster and easier ways to make money in today’s China” 43

COVER STORY

view the role between gallery and artist?

“That’s a very interesting and good question,” says Meile, taking a few seconds to consider his answer. “It is not for us to tell the artist that they should use more red [paintings that use the color red sell for more than paintings that don’t]. But we are the first people whom they communicate with if they do something. They tell us about their thoughts, ideas and theories – and we give them our feedback. If you just work within four walls, you have to talk about what you are doing. This exchange, among people with the same interests, is essential.”

At this point our conversation is interrupted by the arrival of e-commerce billionaire Jack Ma, who, along with a sizable entourage, strolls into Meile’s booth. Meile pauses for a moment, before excusing himself and heading into the scrum.

Several minutes later, Meile returns, seemingly unmoved. “Now, where were we?”

“Have you looked at something and wished it was more commercially viable?” I ask.

“No,” replies Meile, matter-of-factly.

“Because that would be the death of an artist. It is not like craftsmanship, there should be no instructions.”

“So, it is fair to say that your job is to lead

“Chinese art is changing, but trends come and go. People buying art today, may find that in the future it has no value”

44

the market?”

“Correct. That’s very precise. It is the other way around,” says Meile.

“You have a product and it doesn’t matter if everybody says ‘this is shit,’ you try to convince [collectors] of what it is. That is my job.

It’s not my job to tell the artists what to do.”

He continues: “For many people, who travel from across the world for this event, the fair is an opportunity for a catch-up, to talk to the guys you know, and of course to make new contacts as well. It’s those contacts and the sales they help produce that are the most significant [...] I remember in the late 90s there was this idea that art fairs were not so important anymore. Then five or so years ago it all changed. Now they are the most important part of the industry. I am in the selection committee for Art Basel Hong Kong, and this year we had over 600 applications.”

Meile eventually helped choose a total of 233 galleries from 37 countries and territories, the worldwide reach lending credibility to the event’s reputation as Asia’s only true international art fair. Yet for all its global posturing, it is the exhibition’s proximity to the Mainland that has come to define it.

“It is very clear to everyone here that there

P H O T O S ( PA G E S 4 4 - 4 5 ) C O U R T E S Y O F C H E N JIAY E

S TAT E O F T H E A R T

is a young generation of Chinese, aged between 25 and 40, that is now seriously collecting Chinese contemporary works,” says Meile.

“They really do their homework, they are educated and sophisticated and they know what they are buying. But, equally, you have to know to whom you are selling. If a piece is resold at auction [a regular occurrence in China] it will fetch three or four times the price of what we sell it for. This is very destabilizing. The most important thing for an artwork is to be represented in the top collections. I have to be able to tell a real collector from a trader, that is very essential in the Chinese art world,” he says.

“But aren’t most Chinese collectors essentially newcomers?”

“True, true,” replies Meile. “In the West, we know a lot of people, so we can easily tell a true collector from a trader, but here the market is still growing, which creates more difficulties for us. Honestly, selling something to somebody you don’t know can be quite dangerous.”

I leave Meile and wander into the fair unaccompanied. The works on display are varied – in the space of an hour I pass both a 60s Picasso [USD6 million] and a used sock

above

Chen Jiaye left

Te a r i n g - S e r i e s 1 6 ; oil on canvas [2014] Chen Jiaye

45

on a plinth [“several thousand dollars US,” according to the ambitious gallery owner].

Trade appears brisk and few booths are unoccupied – most are crammed full. Strolling between collectors, it occurs to me that never before have I been in the company of such concentrated wealth. Everyone looks so well moisturized, their faces perfectly hydrated, their skin clear and bright. There is a definite air of jollity about the place, of effortlessness and ease: everywhere, people are laughing, slapping one another on the back and congratulating each other. Nowhere do people appear anxious or concerned that they may have just wasted several hundred thousand dollars on a “bunch of shit.”

Near the Shugo Arts booth, a Tokyo gallery specializing in works by Japanese artist Masaya Chiba, I meet a young man from Shenzhen wearing designer sweat-pants and a chunky gold watch, who introduces himself by his English name, Michael. “I have very specific tastes,” he tells me in strong American-accented English. “I find it very hard to describe what I like.”

“Do you like that?” I ask, pointing towards a large drawing of several sliced bananas ornamented with throbbing red veins.

“Yes,” says Michael barely looking at the

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P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F B O E R S - LI G E LL E R Y, B E IJIN G

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above

Xu Feng left

Flashback 42; oil on canvas [2014] Xu Feng

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~

My attempt to keep a running mental tally of the money I hear being spent stops around the six million mark. The energy at the fair is high – everyone, it seems, is on a winning streak at the casino. Works for several hundred thousand dollars are purchased as if they are everyday items in a supermarket.

The constant churn of activity is at times overwhelming.

It’s nearing close by the time I meet with Chinese artist Xu Feng. A classically-trained painter, Xu has become well-known for his abstract works that fuse elements of traditional landscape painting with hypertechnology. The results, weirdly sensory and psychedelic, have proven popular with European collectors and especially lucrative for his Beijing-based gallery Boers Li. Xu’s paintings are valued at around USD200,000 but are usually purchased as part of a set.

Although only a few years older than Hu Qingyan, Xu is a relative veteran of the international art fair circuit.

“I think the most important thing is the sense of security for everyone involved,” he says, referring to the current pick-up in market value of Chinese contemporary art.

“The price of contemporary work is usually pegged to its quality. Everyone will have his own judgment on what’s good and what’s bad. Art is fashionable right now, in both the West and China,” he tells me.

I tell him how a lot of the contemporary art that I’ve seen exhibited at the fair appears relatively apolitical and inoffensive – interior design for the global jet-set.

“Chinese artists have abandoned Mao iconography and the giant panda motifs,” explains Xu, crossing his legs and adopting a more relaxed, thoughtful posture. “Artists must innovate – and a new generation is emerging. The art market today is the natural outcome of globalized capitalism. But if this process goes too far – if these diversified images begin to adopt too much in the way

of certain Western elements – then Chinese artists become just another set of factory workers, making Western goods.”

~

In the evening, I travel across town by taxi to meet Michael at the warehouse party in the industrial suburb of Chai Wan, but by the time I get there he has already left.

I recognize several gallery owners and collectors from earlier in the day and strike up a conversation with a young gallery salesperson. She is drunk and talkative.

“Do you think some of the art is overpriced?” I ask her.

“For you, maybe,” she yells into my ear, over the sound of screeching guitars. “But if it wasn’t that price, we wouldn’t be able to cover our costs, you know. The cost of ourbooth is around half a million US dollars, not including transport costs, insurance, hotels for staff – even the lighting costs extra.”

“What about the artists?” I ask, moving the conversation away from loud speakers and towards the back of the warehouse.

“How much do they make?”

“Our artists get half, but I think that’s above average,” she replies. “If you think that most average-sized booths cost at least half a million dollars US, then you need to clear a million just to break even.”

The music comes to an end. In front of me, a drunken middle-aged man – probably a collector or gallery owner – his face covered in sweat, continues to dance, seemingly oblivious.

“How do you ensure that?” I ask her.

“You make sure the artists bring stuff rich people want to buy,” she tells me, in a voice that suggests I am a moron for asking.

~

It is mid-afternoon on the Sunday by the time I arrive back at the fair. With the doors now open to the public, the crowd has swelled to several thousand. Everywhere, people are stood posing for selfies.

I head to the top floor to meet Chen Jiaye, a young Beijing-based artist and together we traipse from booth to booth, occasionally stopping to look at a work – or more often than not, the people looking at the work.

There is a strange zoo-like effect at play – and I am reminded again of Hu’s observation, that reality is stranger than art.

Chen who graduated from the prestigious Chinese Academy of Fine Art (CAFA), is exhibiting work at a nearby art fair considered by many to be a lesser, lower-league version of Art Basel. I ask him how the event is going and whether he’s sold any works.

“I haven’t sold anything yet,” replies Chen.

“But the experience has been interesting.”

I find it interesting, strange even, that Chen’s work is not selling – or, more to the point, not being displayed at Art Basel. How much is success in the art world due to luck – and how much is due to talent?

48

right

Cloud Layer; acr ylic on canvas [2014] Yu Hong

We are now joined by Chen’s friend and former classmate, Lu Chao. Lu’s work is also on display at Art Basel, though there appears to be no real rivalry between the two young artists.

“Chen is a very talented painter,” Lu tells me at one point, slapping his friend on the back. “His work is really unique.”

During our previous meeting in Beijing, Chen (whose works focuses, in his own words, “on how modern consumerism is distorting our sense of tradition and history”) had told me he felt fortunate to remain somewhat outside of the industry. In the midst of the consumer-driven craziness of Art Basel’s main exhibition room, I wonder if he still feels the same way.

“Of course I’d like my art to be widely appreciated, in places such as Art Basel, but for me, the most important thing is that I am able to direct all my energies and passions into my art," says Chen. “Money is of no real importance.”

He continues: “Chinese art is changing, but trends come and go. People buying art today may find that in the future it has no value. It is impossible to know.”

Perhaps Chen’s subverted and damaged reinterpretations of ancient Chinese paintings are too subtle, too nuanced for a mass market? Lu Chao, whose own work has proved popular with collectors at Art Basel, disagrees. “I think the market will come around to Chen, of course,” he says. “He has a good gallery behind him,” the two young artists laugh.

The three of us, having walked aimlessly for over an hour, getting in the way of other people’s photo opportunities, eventually wind up back at the Long March Space booth.

Without my press pass, and flanked by two Chinese artists, I am mistaken for a gallery owner.

“It’s a fascinating, exquisite work, isn’t it,” begins a sleek female salesperson.

“Where has Cloud Layer gone?” I ask. “The painting with all the hands?”

“Sold!” says the woman. “The collector wanted it shipped right away. This is the replacement image by….”

“How much did it go for?” I ask, interrupting her point.

“For the Cloud Layer? 207,000 US dollars,” says the woman excitedly, while rubbing her fingers together imitating the painting: “Money, money, money, money!” a d d i t i o n a l t r a n s l a t i o n b y z h a o j u a n ya n g

P H O T O C O U R T E S Y O F L O N G M A R C H S PA C E , B E IJIN G

work. “I thought about buying it.”

I ask what sort of budget he has. Michael shrugs: “I don’t know, like 500,000 dollars... maybe more, maybe less. Depends on the quality, you know. Depends on the details and things.”

It’s hard to know whether Michael is the real deal or full of shit, but that appears true of most people at the fair. He checks his phone and asks whether I’m going to the closing party tonight.

This is the second time someone has mentioned this party to me in the last hour. “But it’s only Saturday,” I reply. “Art Basel doesn’t end until Wednesday.”

We swap details and Michael promises to send me the address. Two minutes later he sends me a smiley face emoji, followed by the address of a warehouse party headlined

by Beijing band Queen Sea Big Shark.

S TAT E O F T H E A R T

“Money, money, money, money!”

49

You know how at Starbucks they sometimes write a ridiculous (and incorrect) name on your coffee cup? Apparently it’s so you photograph it, share the confusion/hilarity with your friends on social media and inadvertently give Starbucks free advertising. That’s exactly how we found this ‘drink’: the absurd Cotton Candy Larimar Corona (RMB58). Found at Korean chain Nine Road Pizza, it’s a cotton candy shandy (beer dunked in lemonade) with blue coloring. Imagine walking into a tough Shaanxi boozer with one of these in your hand…

ge

During the three years I’ve spent eating, drinking – and writing about eating and drinking – in Beijing, the enduring trend has to be the hipster indie place transitioning to the Sanlitun big leagues. Home Plate, The Rug, Great Leap… there are many – the latest is Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar. We had doubts initially about the Korean Mexican fusion, but it’s proved unbelievably popular. Deservedly so. They’ve announced a new branch in Sanyuanqiao. Just think, 20 years down the line these brands could be household names all over China…

Is the popularity of these places helped by a lack of big Western chains arriving in the PRC? Many are nowhere to be seen in Beijing (Taco Bell? Pret a Manger?) but some are trying.

Like Pizza Express, which is following up on its Taikoo Li branch (pictured below) with a new restaurant in Raffles Mall, Dongzhimen.

Can Mr. Shi’s Dumplings be considered a chain yet? He’s opened a store on the XindongLu-to-Taikoo-Li back alley, where we hope the alfresco bootleg booze peddlers, like Jazz Graden [sic], will open up again for the summer. Just around the corner, opposite Yashow, Tavalin Bagels make a triumphant return, while in Taikoo Li North the Bao House truck is back at The Opposite House. Finally, the Meatball Company is opening a store next to 4corners in Houhai (Sanlitun branch: late 2017, we expect). WP

im a

o f f t h e b e at e n p l at e

by h oll y li

grapevine nibbles

> Available at nine road pizza, solana

mall, chaoyang 朝阳区蓝色港湾速度披 萨 (5905 6369)

H e a d -to - H e a d / Throat Lozenges

VER sus Fisherman’s Friend

Golden

渔夫之宝 Available at 7/11, RMB8

金嗓子喉片 Available at 7/11, RMB7.8 First impressions

Dusty, like something you might find at the back of your grandpa’s bathroom cabinet.

Golden in name and appearance. Glazed and shiny, like a medicinal marble.

Consistency

Strong and unyielding, not something you want to bite into.

Packs a serious punch, powerful enough to sooth an industrial chimney. Has a taste all of its own that is impossible to place.

Taste

Crunchy, like a hard piece of candy or a Chinese Jolly Rancher.

Urbane, slightly sweet, though again with a taste all of its own. Very pleasant and quite a bit milder than the Fisherman’s.

Verdict

The Golden is good, but if you’re caught short in a storm with a hacking cough while sailing the high seas, it’s the Fisherman’s Friend you’ll want to reach for. SG 5 0 | A p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

T h e y Sa i d I t, W e R e a d I t

ba rt i sa n s

Quanjude

This month Emilie, barista at Rager Pie.

It’s huge and there were so many people, but I’m not sure about the ambience – it was basically just full of old people. The service was pretty good, but I guess they were just looking for that 15 percent service charge.

The food is really nothing special! And the service can’t compare to places where they don’t charge tips! It’s like you owe [the waiters] money… really, it’s like

IMAGE by Holly li

Ever wondered what the kids these days think of some of Beijing’s long-standing eat-and-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: time-honored Tiananmen Square Beijing duck restaurant, Quanjude.

In winter it’s like Dongbei in there – it’s freezing! The old ayi waitresses are like drones.

But since you’re here to eat the duck, I suppose the service isn’t that important.

We ordered a half duck for three people, and we only ate a bit, since it tasted like eating pure lard – just so greasy.

NEWS BITES

Whisky from Taiwan named world’s best single malt

Kavalan Solist Vinho Barrique, from Taiwan’s Kavalan distillery, has been named the world’s best single malt in this year’s World Whiskies Awards, trouncing contenders from Scotland, Japan, Ireland and a host more. Reportedly China’s sole distillery, Kavalan only began distilling nine years ago and reported a 50 percent growth in exports last year due to its fast-growing popularity. Master blender Ian Chang says that heat from a tropical island such as Taiwan can speed up the maturation process and create a mellower whisky. (Good luck with that, Scotland.) Bottles of Kavalan can be purchased from jd.com, starting at about RMB400.

The Drinks. Rager Pie’s coffee selection varies depending on which beans are in season and available for import. When we visit, this includes Kenya Kirinyaga single-origin light roast espresso followed by an Indonesian Mendling Blue Batak dark roast shot. Both varieties are imported by Coffee Gospel Roasters in Shanghai, where Rager’s barista Emilie learnt the art and science of coffee.

Tasting Notes. The jet-black Kenyan Kirinyaga has that rusty orange crema (foam head) that we usually associate with intense bitterness. Not so. “It’s really more of a sour flavor,” Emilie tells us. “It’s all personal – different palates will be reminded of different flavors.”

It’s quite complex – one moment we think we’re getting a hint of grapefruit before an earthy coffee flavor bullies its way back in. The Mendling Blue Batak has a richer, roasted bean flavor, and is drip filtered through a mad professor glass contraption. “This variety is more balanced, with a nutty flavor. Although lighter than the Kenyan Kirinyaga, it actually has a stronger flavor.”

The Barista. If brewing jargon (and high prices) puts you off artisan coffee, then Rager is a good option.

Emilie is meticulous (beans are weighed on scales, water temperatures are checked) but Rager doesn’t take itself too seriously: “True, like many people in China my first cup of coffee was a Starbucks Americano, but since training at Coffee Gospel I’ve developed a love for the amazing breadth and versatility of coffee. I love experimenting and letting other people try my creations.

When [partner and Rager chef] Wilson opened up the store I knew we had to have coffee to go with it.” Despite the odd devil motif and 90s grunge track playing, rage seems to be the furthest thing from the relaxed Emilie’s mind – until we suggest putting sugar in the espresso that is. WP

> rager pie, 10 fensiting hutong, dongcheng 东城区分司厅胡同10号 (186 1405 5548)

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Ray’s Burrito Odyssey How a Love of Mexican Food Led to an Unlikely Friendship Between One of America’s Top Celebrity Chefs and Beijing Restaurateur Ray Heng I nt e r v i e w by St e p h e n G e o rg e

Beijing-born Ray Heng, owner

of popular local Mexican restaurant Sand Pebbles Lounge in Wudaoying Hutong, spent much of the harsh Beijing winter in the even harsher climes of Chicago, where he worked under the mentorship of top celebrity chef Rick Bayless at the famed Frontera Grill restaurant.

We sat down with Ray (over some tacos, naturally) to find out how the trip came about – and what the experience has taught him.

Have you always been a fan of Chef Bayless?

I’ve been reading his books and watching his DVDs for as long as I’ve been in the restaurant business. He’s been my biggest inspiration. Just eating at his restaurant was a dream, so to actually be a part of it, to be working there was something else altogether.

How did the opportunity arise?

I visited his restaurant [Frontera Grill] last year, during a trip to Chicago. Chef Bayless wasn’t there at the time, so I left a few bags of Sichuan chilies as a gift and left a note, explaining that I was his biggest fan, that I was from China, and it would be a dream come true if I could one day meet him. I gave the gift to the duty manager, who promised to leave it on his desk. I thought that would be it. Hopefully he’d try the chilies. End of story.

But a couple of months later, I get this email from his culinary director explaining that they would be visiting the US embassy in Beijing and would I like to meet? I couldn’t believe it. I actually pinched myself to check that I wasn’t dreaming.

Eventually, when the time came, we met at his hotel. It was quite late in the evening, and Rick was

hungry, so I took him to some local restaurants, Lu Gang [Xiao Zhen] and Bellagio, basically the types of places that I usually hang out at late at night. We ended up staying out all night talking, we got along really well, and so the next day I invited him to my restaurant.

He was really amazed that this Chinese guy is making Mexican food in Beijing, using real Mexican tortillas with real Mexican taco fillings. He tasted our chorizo, our carnitas, our tacos – he liked them all. We talked about recipes and preparation and he gave me some tips on how to enhance the color, how to improve the taste and how to keep things fresh. He also interviewed me for his podcast.

We ended up hanging out again that night. One of my friends owns a Beijing duck restaurant – so we visited there, and I took him on a tour of the kitchen to check out the roasting process.

Again, I thought this would be the end of it, but then he asked me whether I’d be interested in coming out to visit his restaurant in Chicago and seeing what they do there. The problem being, I was – I still am in fact – really busy. We’d just opened a third location [El Gran Bocado, in Shunyi], and the trip didn’t really seem possible. I was working flat out.

But something said you had to do it?

Yeah, I had to go, no matter what, even if it meant my restaurants here in Beijing had to close for a while – I had to go! And so in January my wife and I arranged to take some time out and head over to Chicago.

The weather was crazy, much colder than here in Beijing. Minus 10 to 15

fe at ure | e at & drink

Clockwise from far left | ray heng at work in the frontera grill kitchen; ray and his wife pepper, pictured alongside rick and deann bayless in chicago; ray and rick together in el gran bocado, beijing; and bayless’ team at work behind the scenes at frontera grill.

degrees every day. To make matters worse, I’m staying like 30 miles out at a friend’s house in the suburbs, so I have to get up at 6am each day and catch the train to make sure I can start at 9am.

That seems a little early?

That’s when they start the prep. All the prep chefs at Frontera are really good people, really helpful. They’re always willing to answer questions, show you what they’re doing and how they’re doing it. I wanted to learn the entire business from top to bottom. I’d also stay on for another few hours once the prep guys had left, to watch the guys making the food each evening. That was truly mind-blowing. These guys are doing something that I tell my chefs never to do: they’re working in complete silence. No verbal communication whatsoever. Yet they’re perfectly in sync. They’ve worked with each other and chef Bayless for 20 years.

Five people, serving 300 to 500 guests. Every night. Not a wrong move between them. It’s crazy. The kitchen itself is not that big, but it’s incredibly efficient.

How big is the gap between what these guys are doing and what you’re doing?

It’s big… it’s beyond big. They’ve got decades worth of experience, the whole process has become a fine art.

For example, they even make their own hot chocolate, using their own Mexican cacao beans. It’s a complete system. Ninety-five percent of all the waste from the entire restaurant is recycled. They’re even turning their used cooking oils into bio-diesel to fuel all the trucks that transport the ingredients to the restaurant.

They grow all their own microgreens, everything is organic, the garlic, onions, tomatoes, lettuce, you name it – even the meat is sourced from small local organic farms. It’s basically the exact opposite of the model you typically find here in China.

How has this impacted on what you’re doing in Beijing?

The trip taught me a lot. I’ve readjusted the whole kitchen – it’s a lot more efficient now. I’ve tweaked the menu, added new things and refocused my energies.

The way I see it, you can buy anything in this world, except for experience – experience has to be earned. I want to keep pushing myself, keep improving, keep learning. Chef Bayless is 60. He’s keeping fit, doing yoga at the weekends, traveling, sampling new recipes, trying new things. Thirty years from now, that’s where I want to be.

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e at & drink | Fe at ure e at & dr ink | r es taur a n t s

Charcoal So Hot Right Now

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by N i k o l a i B l a c k i e , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

Price RMB150-300 for meal, RMB25-45 for beer Who’s Going Bearded Shunyi biker gang dudes and their kiddies Good For Craft beer minus the hipsters

“The yak ribs, flown in from Yunnan, are a falling-off-the-bone, meltin-your-mouth kind of deal” 5 4 | A p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

What topic of conversation do we hear over and over while sat at Charcoal’s bar? How the long-suffering residents of Shunyi – where this new barbecue/ microbrew is located – have been waiting an eternity for a place like this. We’re inclined to agree. As arguably Beijing’s only suburb, Shunyi – The Great Beyond, where your gated compound dreams become a Fifth Ring Road reality – has been a haven for heavy-walleted CEOs, diplomats and mid-life crisis biker gangs for some time now. They might be the antithesis of hipster, but surely they deserve their own craft beer and BBQ hang-out?

As befits the name, the place screams barbecue.

The decor is stone, iron and wood (blackened in the bathroom for the charcoal effect). Wallpaper? Don’t be ridiculous. There aren’t even many walls – just glass separating diner from kitchen and drinker from brewery.

It is studied utilitarianism – the wood for the smoking oven is piled up in a ‘wood library’ (stacked in varieties of peach, pear, apple and hazelnut wood).

On to the food: all meat is sourced from either local farms or trusted suppliers, and presumably chosen based on how good it tastes when cooked over charcoal.

The locals at the bar are all in agreement – the food tastes good. The 21-day dry-aged beef rib-eye is our favorite (RMB148 for 250g or RMB258 for 500g). The jerk chicken (RMB88/half, RMB128/whole), smoked in a converted duck-roasting oven, has gloriously moist flesh beneath tasty skin, while the yak ribs (RMB188), flown in from Yunnan, are a falling-off-the-bone, meltin-your-mouth kind of deal. Salads are available but – as admitted by the restaurant – unimportant (we expect they don’t taste so good roasted over charcoal).

Smack in the middle of the restaurant, and central to Charcoal’s appeal, is the brewery – all twelve gleaming vats worth. It’s the new flagship brewing operation for Arrow Factory, whose beer you may well have tried at Stuff’d or The Vineyard Café. The brewpub marks a partnership with the teams responsible for Kro’s Nest and The Corner Melt. The beers are priced competitively, coming in small and large sizes ranging from RMB25 for a small (250ml) A Whiter Shade Of Pale wheat to RMB45 for a pint (460ml) of Seeing Double IPA. With the new facility, Arrow Factory promises us a wider range of consistently high-quality beer, which they’ll need to keep up with the high standards set by the likes of Great Leap, Jing-A and Slow Boat. There’s more of a traditional European influence than the aforementioned brewers though – the Longbow Men Session Ale (RMB40/30) and Blonde on Blonde Belgian Ale (RMB40/30) we could drink all evening long. And we’re quite happy to do so at Charcoal. We’ve come all the way from downtown so might as well make a session of it – how much is a taxi back to Chaoyang again?

Opening times TBA, west end of Qingyuan Sanjie,

Houshayu,Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪罄园三街西口 (6040 8911)

Restaur a n t s | e at & drink

satan's hot dog A Diabolical Idea

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by W i l l P h i l i p p s , i m a g e by Ho l l y L i

Price Hot dogs RMB19-29 Who’s Going White collar goths, clandestine missionaries Good For Just hot dogs really

Sanlitun SOHO is one of the least hellish places in Beijing.

An increasing number of its lots are being filled with shops, restaurants and offices and yet it’s always blissfully quiet. The sleek glass towers are pleasing on the eye, there are decent toilets and, as far as we can tell, there’s not a hint of eternal fire and brimstone.

Which is why we think it’s an odd choice that the antichrist has set up a hot dog restaurant here, and a pleasant little one at that. We’re expecting flame decals, a red color palate and Iron Maiden’s Number of the Beast on repeat, but the only hell motif is a mural of a prancing devil in a suit.

With its green branding and exposed brickwork, Satan’s Hot Dog looks a bit like Subway… in the same way that salt looks a bit like sugar. However, Satan’s has just enough novelty ornaments to elevate it above a run-of-the-mill Subway clone.

Amateurish photo collages of celebrities eating hot dogs, coat hooks shaped like dog butts (available in IKEA, fyi), Wrigley’s chewing gum on the menu (to prevent Hell’s mouth breath, RMB3), and an interesting poster proclaiming Satan’s healthy approach to fastfood: wholegrain bread, fresh ingredients, open kitchen etc.

But does that make the dogs any good? (Subway can harp on about healthy sandwiches all they like, but it doesn’t stop them tasting pure evil.) Well,

we dive straight in with the main event: the Satan’s Hot Dog (RMB29), a thick, juicy sausage – we’d say an ungodly nine inches plus – alongside a few pickles, wrapped in a robust bread roll. The sausage has a homemade texture and look, but it’s a bit flavorless. (And the translucent skin has not been taken off – you wouldn’t get that in heaven). The bread is decent though – slop enough ketchup and mustard on and you have something worth a repeat visit.

It doesn’t compete with the kind of artisan dog you might find at, say, a Beijing craft beer festival – but compared to the halftime hotdogs at Gongti Guo’an games they are divine. The veggie and regular (both RMB19) options are less exciting – stick with the Satan.

It all adds up to a solid little hot dog place, although we still find the branding confusing.

(The staff are positively angelic.) “Temptation is the devil’s greatest weapon… [it’s] not a crime, have you had your Satan today?” the walls ask. Our reckoning: it was set up by a born-again Christian, with the aim of subverting the devil’s image, to laugh in the face of evil with mediocre fast food. The Christmas carols playing over the sound system are the give away. daily 11am-9pm; 6-116, 1/f, sanlitun

soho, 8 gongti beilu, chaoyang 朝阳 区工体北路8号三里屯soho6号商场1楼 6-116室商铺 (5785 3813)

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Caravan The Camel’s Back

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by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

Aside from the occasional Mongol sheep bought for slaughter, those on the caravan trails linking Beijing with the Silk Road lived on an uninspired diet of oat and millet flour. Scurvy was a common problem on camel trains. Too few fruits and vegetables, apparently.

It was a tough existence and the opening of the Peking-Kalgan railway in 1909 cemented the humble caravan’s demise. But, over a hundred years later, it returns to Beijing by way a new venture from CuJu owner Badr Benjelloun... on its logo at least. Two camels face in opposite directions and – given that the food is an almost even split between Moroccan and Cajun – perhaps one of them is headed for Louisiana.

And how times have changed. Caravan may not boast a fruit-andveg-heavy menu but there is just enough vitamin C here to keep scurvy at bay. Better still, there is an abundance of Mongol meat this time around. Almost all of it is slow-cooked and benefits from hours’ worth of preparation time – Benjelloun must relish having a kitchen bigger than his entire first premises.

His unhurried approach pays dividends. The shredded duck sat atop the penne du batou is tender, well-paired with a marinara sauce, and emboldened by a Cajun kick. More successfully, the slow-roasted mechoui lamb almost falls off the bone; an excellently cooked shank lent a sweet twist by a honey and raisin glaze.

Elsewhere, the fare hints at contrast and combination. We try a decent Cajun chicken salad that balances spice with flavors prone to dominating, such as onion and horseradish (the latter in the form of 5 6 | A p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

a creamy remoulade). On the sweeter side of the menu, the banana flambe with rumraisin ice cream excels on the hot/cold front, two courses, RMB150 for with cracked pepper adding a little more three; lunch set: RMB68 complexity. for two courses, RMB98 Neither desert nor oasis, the interior for three is tasteful enough. Dark woods and reds Who’s Going offset cream walls lined with black-andHungry diplomats, white photographs, giving the restaurant camel-pullers, Badr’s something of a Mediterranean taverna-vibe. mates The focal point is a rather charming central Good For bar, its main surfaces and shelves made from Slow-cooked meat, a repurposed siheyuan door. avoiding scurvy But the food alone will surely secure the restaurant’s place in the capital’s dining carousel, for now. With plenty of nearby embassies and faithful CuJu-ites willing to venture out from the hutongs, we suspect this Caravan won’t be off anywhere soon.

Price

Dinner set: RMB120 for

mon-sat 11am-11pm, sun closed; 44 guanghua lu, chaoyang 朝阳区光华路44号 (8563 0801, www.caravanbeijing.com)

r es taur a n t s | e at & drink

Park 17 Close to Maturity

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by W i l l P h i l i p p s , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

Italian Park 17 is a restaurant that strives to belong to a grown-up scene – as you might expect from someone who is one away from 18. Unlike many new openings in Beijing, it’s not trying to make any grand statements and it doesn't have a gimmick – like, say, offering the biggest selection of Amalfi coast limoncello in China. It feels organic – it hasn’t just looked at Beijing and thought: what do we need to do to fit in here?

Located in the Sanlitun South courtyard complex (aka the trendiest parking lot in Beijing), a multi-level dining space creates depth and a lack of photos on the menu creates something resembling a real Italian restaurant.

The food, of course, resembles real Italian too, but right off the bat, it does feel a bit like it was made by nonItalian natives. That’s partly due to the fact the menu is not particularly adventurous, although that’s not an indicator of quality, which on the whole is good. It’s also to do with size – most dishes we try here are huge, starting with a flowery tomato and mozzarella salad (RMB78). Size, naturally, can suggest inadequacies in other departments, but the tomatoes are fresh and the mozzarella suitably spongy, not rubbery. Aside from that, the warm seafood salad with avocado, lemon and parsley (RMB138) has plenty of squid and the wood-oven roasted asparagus, wrapped in prosciutto and topped with fontina cheese (RMB88), is an extremely good take on the theme of veg wrapped in bacon.

Between courses we discover that the name, Park 17, is reference to the fact that in the future, the menu will offer up to 17 different set menu options. Too much choice? We stick with a la carte and up next is pizza, topped with spicy salami, broccolini and house-made ricotta (RMB128). The base has that nice garlic pizza bread crunch to it. For pasta, we opt for a rigatoni with meatballs and smoked chili tomato ragu (RMB128), which is the sort of warming comfort pasta you want to be able to make at home as your go-to.

We finish with crispy beef short rib with grilled broccolini and smoked chili-chianti glaze (RMB348). This might win the most points for ambition – it’s a huge slab of beef imported from Australia and the chianti glaze is a nice touch, but if you have just a simple chunk of beef it needs to be perfect to really sing. Park 17’s comes close but no cigar. It’s representative of a place that does better when it sticks to something less ostentatious. That’s something of a rarity in Sanlitun – so we hope Beijing takes to it.

Price RMB200-300 per person Who’s Going Beijingers who’ve vacationed in Italy recently Good For Flexibilty – we’d bring a date, our colleagues or our parents here

daily 11am-10pm; inside the sanlitun south complex, chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号机电院内停车场西侧 (6586 1889)

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IMAGE by Holly li

e at & dr ink | r es taur a n t s

Price

the bar bq Does What it Says

by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

Platters from about RMB50-150 per person; burgers RMB35-50 Who’s Going Pool-playing carnivores; drinkers at The Bar Good For Inducing meat sweats

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In the mid-90s, British wood-dye manufacturer Ronseal (or more specifically its advertising agency) coined the timeless slogan: “It does exactly what it says on the tin.” It was a no-nonsense catchphrase for a nononsense product.

Other commercials promised domestic bliss to those with clean laundry, unbounded happiness to consumers of carbonated drinks, and irresistible sex appeal to the underwhelmingly averagelooking, but Ronseal won over DIY aficionados with its refreshing, unapologetic bluntness.

So while Sanlitun’s The Bar BQ must surely have the most unoriginal name since ‘The Bar’ (found one floor above, in what we can only presume is called ‘The Building’), it’s nice to know exactly what we’re getting – a bar and a barbecue. Ergo, we will be served alcohol and meat.

The space has barely changed since the previous incarnation, By the Tree, so we can trundle through with relative haste: stone floor, pool table, sports trophies and interior archways. Time for cooked carcass.

We indulge in the all-meat combo (RMB195, feeds three to four), which features two types of ribs, two of brisket and a rather dense sausage.

This is meant to be a dry barbecue and it’s certainly that – a little too much for our liking – although snippets of succulence can be found in the chopped brisket and rib tips, both of which are the platter’s highlights.

A saucy remedy is the obvious solution. The Texas and Memphis varieties are too sweet for these palettes but the Kansas City brings a certain richness found lacking in its bottled brown friends.

So The Bar BQ is, for now, doing exactly what it says on the tin. But there’s potential for more. With a little sauce-tinkering and some slightly juicier cuts, it may find itself better placed to challenge the more established names in the world of Beijing barbecue. daily, 5pm-late; 2/f youyi youth hostel,

sanlitun back street, chaoyang 朝阳区友谊青 年酒店2层 (6415 9954))

ba rs | e at & drink

Nbeer pub Man’s Best Friend

by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

Price

Pale ales dominate the lineup, which features a brooding Season IPA (RMB40) and our personal favorite: the crisp and refreshingly floral Summer IPA (RMB40).

The Chocolate Stout (RMB40) lacks both subtlety and richness – it’s almost coffee-

All beers fall in the the RMB35-50 range Who’s Going Thirsty shoppers, people with no friends Good For Pale ales of the India

‘No Beer No Friends’ reads the somewhat threatening slogan welcoming customers to NBeer Pub’s second location. Lest you forget – without the inebriating effects of fermented vegetable matter, you will remain boorish, unattractive and so consumed by self-doubt that you could barely sustain pillow talk with a prostitute, let alone the genuine companionship of fellow humans.

Better get drinking then.

Emerging as one of the better domestic brewers in Beijing’s foreign-led craft beer revolution, NBeer has made 13 drafts available to help ease your loneliness.

IMAGE by Holly li

variety

like in consistency – but we can vouch for the general quality of the brewer’s output through regular appearances at Beijing’s beer festivals (on our part as well as theirs).

But what differentiates NBeer Pub from the growing horde of competitors is its aesthetic. Instead of mood lighting and shades of deep wood, this feels more like a beach bar with its high stools and novelty bottle display. And while most craft beer taprooms allow the din of informed chatter to fill the air, NBeer Pub lures you in with Sinatra-esque swing before unleashing Elephant Man: “A’right real badman nuh wear people pants… Kick out yuh shoes because yuh foot dem nuh cramp,” he suggests.

The dancehall veteran makes a valid point. But he cannot distract us from the bar’s defining characteristic – it’s in Sanlitun SOHO. Inescapably so. The shopping complex is visible through the storefront-style windows and drinkers are only separated from neighboring stores by a wall of hanging ropes. This is not necessarily a bad thing, though it seems more suited for a post-shop refuel than a full evening session. daily 10am-midnight; b1-625, tower 6, sanlitun soho, 8 gongti beilu, chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路8号三里屯 soho6号商场b1-625 (136 8330 8384)

steampunk Subculture Vultures

by W i l l P h i l i p p s

If Vice magazine can make itself the millenials’ Who’s Going favorite with Steampunks, regular witty dissections punks, regular Joes of western Good For subcultures, then Cheap drinks before we’ll be damned if hitting up a livehouse That’s Beijing can’t do so in China. Sure, we don’t have many to riff on – post-ironic cyber-crusties and futurist bohemians aren’t big here – and the one we do have, hutong hipster, seems to have ruled the capital for longer than the Qing dynasty did. Steampunk bar suggests there’s some level of obscure subculture to be found, though. And what a deliciously weird one the steampunk is. It’s not quite at Japanese octopus porn levels of weirdness, but it’s considerably edgier than a head-to-toe Hello Kitty get-up.

Upon entering, we’re met by the owner (member of the band Black VA – they make their own instruments, natch) and his jewelry designer friend, Danyi, who looks like supermodel sorceress. They describe steampunk as an aesthetic that marries Price

IMAGE by Holly li

Drinks around RMB20-30

19th century industrialist steam-powered machinery with the studded leather of traditional punk (think Edward Scissorhands listening to The Ramones), but minus the anti-establishment middle finger, judging by the hosts, who are lovely. The owner has hand-made a series of moving metal contraptions from repurposed bike wheels and metal tubing which adorn the walls.

They make us their signature drinks – Steampunk #1 and Steampunk #2 (both RMB30), which are essentially just sweetened alcohol plus mixer. The rest of the

fridge runs the standard gamut of imported beers and they are inexpensive – a Vedett is only RMB20. As the rulebook dictates, the bar is located within walking distance of the Gulou-to-Dongzhimen thoroughfare, just off Jiaodaokou Nan, and is a touch larger than a shoebox. Yet, in a city where the Steampunk population might not even reach double figures, why go any bigger? daily 5.30pm-late, Xiang’er hutong and Jiaodaokou

nan dajie intersection, dongcheng 东城区交道口南大 街与香饵胡同交口 (139 1022 8025)

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COMMUNITY

communi t y | t iger fat her

Slumber party season When 8-year-old Girls do Everything but Slumber

by Tre v o r Ma r s h a l l s e a

“The group of girls bounced from party to party, a bit like Regency-era aristocrats through the London social season, though a bit more like a crowd of pill-crazed youths going from rave to rave” They say all your formative, life-establishing years are a pathway of preparation for the day you finally step up and play your part in human evolution. This is the phrase I use – usually when cleaning vomit or some such mess – to put a grandiose hue on the fairly commonplace event of becoming a parent.

When I was a younger, less tired man, as a daily journalist I sweated under deadlines, occasionally grilled national leaders and went toe-to-toe with the odd angry sportsman/national icon.

But none of this came close to readying me for the awesome power, the fury, the heaving human mass of energy that is an 8-year-old girl’s sleepover birthday party.

There’s been a glut of them lately. Our Evie’s friends all seem to have been born in the same month. Whatever it was that triggered we parents to get jiggy with each other in mid-2006 – my money’s on the World Cup – this Spring Festival was slumber party month. This group of girls bounced from party to party for several weekends, a bit like Regency-era aristocrats through the London social season, though a bit more like a crowd of pillcrazed youths going from rave to rave.

Our turn came late in the season. Hosting kids’ parties is stressful, but in my case, the pressure was really on. The previous weekend’s bash was high-society indeed. There was nail-polish, make-up, hairdressing – it was effectively a makeover sleepover, I guess in case these 8-year-old girls were just so bored with their ‘look.’ There was even a printed menu, featuring “shrimp in pink sauce” and a cheese plate!

All very well for them. I made it clear to Evie the menu for her party would feature photos of pizzas and a big phone number.

This was partly because, adding more pressure, I’d be the only adult around for most of it, my wife having to work until the evening. Thankfully it was quickly clear the girls were just intent on partying like it was 2009.

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It also helped that our party was a select affair, with four guests. This is because Evie is an awkward little thing with no friends.

No, she’s great, but a few people were away for Chinese New Year, we had limited space and… who would want more than four guests anyway?! (The sleepover after ours hosted 13 kids! I’d have fled that after an hour, solo host or not.) In any case, it seems five girls is more than enough to cross the threshold for madness and noise.

Our theme being Harry Potter, Evie wanted “pin the tail on the Hippogriff,” which I learned is a mythical creature that is half-horse, half-Newt Gingrich. We thought it might be fun instead to throw the tail at the Hippogriff, so I bought a dartboard. Once the game was over, the kids

removed the Hippogriff and just played darts, possibly unaware it’s not usually played by cute little girls but by fat beerswilling Englishmen in pubs. As they excitedly hurled sharp metal spikes through the air, they were as happy as I was terrified.

After a treasure hunt, which prompted screaming and running even though these girls weren’t actually competing with anyone, it was pizza and movie time. The pizza was easy. Each girl requested Margherita, except one, who asked for cheese, not knowing it was also called “Margherita.”

However, letting the kids choose which Harry Potter movie to watch proved only one thing: you should never let kids decide which Harry Potter movie to watch. The debate took hours, and would still be going

on had I not finally drawn a number out of a hat in what I excitedly marketed as “The Great Harry Potter Lottery.”

By now it was getting late, but the cake would have to wait for the pizza. I’m not sure many parenting manuals recommend stuffing kids with cake and icing at 9pm, but this was arguably unavoidable. Unarguably, it really gave the party a late kickalong.

Intent viewing of the movie gave way to – well, a running and screaming redux, as the kids telepathically called together a noise-a-thon. I also hadn’t realized how much 8-year-old girls can sweat!

But all went quiet for The Arrival of the Rude Word – a part in the movie when someone says “the B-word.” This sparked a lively debate on the spelling of ‘bitch,’ which then, in a switch only 8-year-olds can master, became a debate about the existence of God. Then, the sublime craziness returned, until it was time for the ridiculous – trying to herd this lot into a shower.

“Do you want a shower?” my wife asked an American girl unused to Australian accents.

“WHAT?” the girl screamed. “DO I WANNA SHOUT?” “NO – A SHOWER,” my wife had to yell back.

“OH. NO THANKS. BUT CAN I SHOUT?” We told her she could, evidently.

Finally, the mob was corralled in one bedroom, for more shouting. I’m not sure when they dropped off, as I was asleep before they were. But I think they had a good time, though I wonder what they told their folks: “We played darts, and the lottery, I learned how to spell ‘bitch’ and that there’s no God.” Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in

Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. This time around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of his domestic adventures at www.thetigerfather. com

advertorial | communit y

Character Building Stuff CEC Education Helps Children Reach Maturity

by Je n s B a k k e r

A Hurun Media report in 2014 found that up to four out of five wealthy families in China want to send their children abroad to study. Last year, the number of Chinese students moving overseas increased by 11 percent from the previous year. A lack of trust in Chinese education? Maybe, but it also stresses the importance of an allencompassing education that prepares students for an increasingly international word. That’s doesn’t just mean working with people from different countries, but adapting to different countries’ customs and conventions.

In an interview with China Daily, a father was quoted as saying: “We value all-round development and quality-oriented education… and by sending [our children] abroad, we also hope to broaden their horizons and give them the chance to be independent.”

And as that multi-faceted style of education starts to influence schools around the world, it’s never too early to start thinking about how your child is best prepared for international higher education. Englishspeaking environments, melting-pots of cultures, balancing new social lives with academic challenges – it is as much a test of character as it is intelligence.

This is exactly the philosophy that newly opened Character Education Center (CEC) adheres to. “While we are sending our children to better schools or international institutions, do we and the faculty really understand what the education system should provide for our children?” they ask.

While many parents focus on particular subjects – math, science, English, dance, music, etc., which can overburden a student with ‘data’ to process – CEC suggests a more practical and organic learning pro-

gram to supplement your child’s education.

The center’s syllabus differs from traditional learning in that the classes focus on individual character traits, such as responsibility, independence and diligence, instead of a traditional subject-based course, which students might find overwhelming when running concurrently with regular studies. “Good character traits are like roots to a child’s life,” the experts from CEC tell us. “Our mission is to plant and nurture these fundamental attributes in order to help children learn how to make good choices in the future. Without outstanding character, a child can’t reach their highest potential.”

Children are taught through activities that focus on reading clubs, public speaking, drama, songs and group discussion.

Adding these extra dimensions to your child’s education provides a great platform for an easy transition into learning in a foreign country or international school.

Classes are taught entirely in English and always in small groups – allowing teachers more time to focus on individual students’ needs.

With enrollment now open in the Beijing branch from ages 5-12, we recently attended the center’s open day at their Lido branch. Senior education consultant and CEC chief consultant, Jemina V. Vallee, was on hand to talk. She joined CEC from EtonKids, which she co-founded and helped develop the curriculum for from 20042012.

One topic mentioned was bullying and violence among children in the classroom.

Needless to say, being on the receiving end of such ill treatment can greatly effect a child’s future development and have fun-

damentally negative effects on attitudes to study and the classroom environment.

With CEC’s course, students are taught to have the awareness to intervene when they see bullying, tell a teacher when they are being bullied and understand for themselves how detrimental it can be.

At the heart of CEC is its course curriculum – the Character First Education course, which was developed in America under Strata Leadership, the world’s largest character-based leadership development program. Their aim is to teach and encourage positive social values.

Through a range of fun, engaging, positive, practical, and research-based lessons, students are guided towards building the character and competence needed for success. Over 100,000 teachers and instructors around the world now use the course.

Each curriculum unit offers approximately three hours of step-by-step instructional material on a specific character quality. Carefully researched lessons include discussion, exploration, memorization, activities, stories, projects, and games, which are designed to reach all kinds of learners: auditory, visual, tactual and kinaesthetic.

Inclusiveness is at the core of CEC’s education, which they ensure is the best possible platform future success. if you’d like your child’s academic career to get off to a head start, cec will be happy to consult you on various options available for your child. contact via phone on 8457 8996 or 8457 8928 or over wechat, user id: cec84678928. character education center, room 204, Building 7, 9 fangyuan Nanli, chaoyang 朝阳区芳园南里 9号楼7号院 丽都水岸会所二层204室

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Events WED APR 1

nightlife

SPORTS

Hike: Walled Village to the Little West Lake After taking a quick look at the thick walls of what were once Ming Dynastyera barracks, you will be taken on an easy stroll through chestnut orchards on the way to a stretch of the nearby Huanghuacheng Great Wall. > RMB400 (RMB360 for members); 8.30am gathering at Lido Hotel Starbucks or Liangmaqiao subway station pickup at 8am (Online booking and more information www.beijinghikers. com)

Gig: ‘Still Smiling’ Teho Teardo & Blixa Bargeld, a TransAlpine connection (Italian and German) between two sonic geniuses, who bring their unique live collaboration project ‘Still Smiling’ to Beijing. Best described as chamber pop, with a touch of electro, lyrics are sung in English, German and Italian. Presented by Goethe-Institut China. > RMB 80 (RMB50 presale before March 31); 8.30pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

FRI APR 3

DJ: Audioeyes featuring Djuma Soundsystem Guest DJ Mikkas, better known as Djuma Soundsystem, is a Norwegian beat controller who plays warm beats and melodies that fall somewhere the techno, house and disco catergories. We’ll just call is dance – which is exactly what you’ll fell like doing. Support from Migas resident, Nassdak. > RMB50; 10pm till late; Migas (see Listings for details)

WED APR 8

GIG: SISQÓ Believe it or not, it’s been over 15 years since R&B singer Sisqó burst into the limelight with his orchestral ode to skimpy underwear, ‘Thong Song.’ You may be equally surprised to hear that he’s back with a new album, his first since 2001’s Return of Dragon. And for a final revelation: new disc Last Dragon received some rather good reviews – the New York Times suggesting that Sisqó “still has plenty of fire.” The superstar’s China club tour brings him to 8MM, a venue gaining a reputation for bigname bookings. Expect a rip-roaring journey through his discography, though we can guess which song song song song sonnnnng people are going to be waiting for. > Presale RMB150 (VIP RMB400); Wed April 8, 8MM, WF1-WF2, Landmark Towers Bldg. 2, 8 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路8号亮马河大厦2号楼WF1WF2室

APR 1-26

nightlife

ARTS

SAT APR 4

Gig: Nathaniel Gao Jazz Quartet A key contributor to the local jazz scene, both as co-leader of the quintet Red Hand and leader of his own quartet and trio, Nathaniel Gao is a saxophonist and composer worth seeing. > Free; 10pm-1am; East Shore Live Jazz Café, 2/F, 2 Qianhai Nanyan Lu, Dianmenwai Dajie, Dongcheng地安门外 大街前海南沿2号楼2层 (8403 2131, eastshorelivejazz@gmail.com)

THU APR 2

Party: Pillow Fight Are you ready for the annual International Pillow Fight day at MAO Livehouse? Good. Bring your friends and arm yourself with pillows ready to hit the ones you love (and hate). Live music

Gig: The Shanghai Restoration Project The Shanghai Restoration Project creates high-energy electronic beats rooted in modern day Chinese culture. In addition to their most popular song, they’ll play some new tracks from latest release The Classics. Expect a mix of electronica, rap, improvisation, and jazz vocals. > RMB150 (RMB120 presale: yoopay.cn/ event/20150403); 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

Gig: Spring Fever A feast of electrifying local talent makes for an all-night-long rager, with some of your favorite food vendors supplying sandwiches and snacks to keep you fueled up for rock. > RMB60 (RMB50 presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: The Harridans Psychedelic, bombastic, moving… The Harridans promise you a sound like no other. Catch the Beijing-based rock outfit at DDC. (Bonus fact: ‘Harridan’ is an old French term for a scolding hag.) >RMB 50 (door), 40 (presale); 9pm; DDC (see Listings for details)

Gig: Ikonika Described by British media as “a rare female face in the male-dominated world of dubstep”, Ikonika combines melodic synth patterns, driving drums, unorthodox song structures, and – oh yes – plenty of hot, steamy bass. >RMB60; Dada (see Listings for details).

NIGHTLIFE

Exhibition: Momentum Spring season in Ubi Gallery starts with an exhibition of three jewelry artists from Beijing. Song Xinzi, Li Yu and Zhao XiaoMu are alumni from the jewelry department of the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology whose works present the exploration of material and the interaction between art and technology. > Free, 11am-8pm; Ubi Gallery, 62 Yangmeizhu Xiejie, Dongcheng东城区杨 梅竹斜街62号 (6301 2382)

Gig: Yuck Critics have likened London-based indie rockers Yuck to Dinosaur Jr., Pavement, My Bloody Valentine and Sonic Youth.

The band has two full-length releases under their white studded belts. >RMB 150, (RMB120 presale); 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

from Multi-Ego, The Sweet Escape and Collision Dreamer. Lucky draw for traveling tickets to South Korea/Phuket Island. > RMB100, RMB80 (presale); 8-11.30pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE

NIGHTLIFE Gig: The Beijing Beatles Hard not to love these guys – rocking night out guaranteed. Beijing’s very own John, Paul, George and Ringo play an extensive medley of Beatles classics. > RMB 50 (RMB40 presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@urbanatomy. com. For some details, see Listings.

SAT APR 11

DJ: THE SYNDICATE – OM UNIT First off, if you missed our in-depth interview with Om Unit, get yourself back to the Arts section (page 26) and have a read. Because now we’re going to tell you about the best thing about the bass pioneer’s trip to China – it’s completely free.

That’s because The Syndicate is teaming up with global travel website Skyscanner to provide you a night of free fun (drinks not included) at Dada. All you have to do is download the Skyscanner app – through iTunes, Android Store or WeChat (tianxun_cn) – and show it at the door. If you are without smart phone (Nokia-philes and conscientious objectors included) then it’s RMB50 to get in. Support comes from Blackie, Kay C, Donkey Tonk, Chole and Elemental. > Free with Skyscanner app, RMB50 without; Saturday April 11; Dada (see Listings for details)

DJ: Dim Sum Disco features Juhstynn Juhstynn (aka That’s Beijing’s very own marketing guru Justin Culkin) may well be the sexiest man currently on Beijing’s music circuit. When not leading his team at this very publication, he can be found in the city’s clubs playing his trademark ladykiller house sets, with a hint of thinking man’s disco. Support (as if he needs it!) from Dim Sum Disco residents Boflex and Crystal Bones. > RMB 30 (free before 11pm); 10pm till late; Migas (see Listings for details)

ARTS Concert: Elizabeth Leonskaja Piano Recital A highly sought after Russian concert

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e v ents

pianist, Elizabeth Leonskaja is known for her elegant playing style. This recital features works by composers such as Beethoven, Shubert, Liszt and Brahms. > RMB50-300; 7.30pm; National Centre for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 (www. chncpa.org)

nightlife

Workshop: Beijing Opera Mask Making Each of the main characters in traditional Chinese Opera wear a unique style of makeup, known as Lianpu. Join this class to make your own Lianpu while learning a bit about traditional Chinese culture along the way. > RMB30; 1.30-3.30pm; CLE classroom, Room 605 (6th floor), 9 Jianwai SOHO Building, 39 Dongsanhuan Zahonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外 SOHO东区9号楼605

COMMUNITY Film: The Land of Many Palaces (2014) Screening, with director Q&A, of documentary The Land of Many Palaces. Made

by Ting and Adam in 2014, who cane together over a mutual desire to explore the unprecedented changes occurring in Chinese society today. Please reserve online. > RMB60 (Culture Yard Students RMB40); 7-9.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石雀胡同10号 (8404 4166, cultureyard.net)

THU-SUN APR 9-12

ARTS

Opera: Der Rosenkavalier Der Rosenkavalier is one of Richard Strauss’ most famous operas, a story about love and marriage set in 18th century Viennese aristocracy. >RMB 100-880; 7.30pm; National Centre for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 (www. chncpa.org)

SAT/SUN APR 4/5

EAT/DRINK

Eat: Easter Brunch at Capital M Capital M’s Easter brunch is a treat for the whole family. Tuck into a delicious brunch on the terrace in the spring sunshine. Easter eggs, hot cross buns and lots of Easter treats for little ones.

Reservations required. Call: 6707 2727. > RMB 248/288; 11.30am-3pm; Capital M (see Listings for details)

FRI APR 10

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Taichi Class Whether young or old, and no matter where you’re from, Tachi could be the ideal physical exercise. Prepare yourself for joining those practicing in the park with this free indoor session. > Free;1.30-3.30pm; CLE classroom, Room 605 (6th floor), 9 Jianwai SOHO Building, 39 Dongsanhuan Zahonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外 SOHO东区9号楼605 (Reservations required in two days advance: 5869 5800 or email info@chinaledu.com)

SAT APR 4, 11 & 25

COMMUNITY

Tour: Beijing Electric Bike Tours A great way to see huge swathes of Beijing from ground level without completely tiring yourself out. Guides are well trained in the rules of the road too, so safety is ensured. > For more information visit www.bjebiketours.net

NIGHTLIFE

SUN APR 5

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Liu Donghong & The Sand Liu Donghong is an experienced Chinese singer songwriter, who’s been gigging since 1998 (round about the time this magazine first came into existence, in fact). > RMB80 (RMB60 presale); 9pm; DDC (see Listings for details)

COMMUNITY Film: Easter Parade (1948) Classic Fred Astaire and Judy Garland musical from waaaay back in 1948. A nightclub performer hires a naive chorus girl to become his new dance partner in order to make his former partner. Music

by Irving Berlin. > RMB 75; 5pm; Capital M (see Listings for details)

MON APR 6

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Chinese Calligraphy Mao once said that if you haven’t learnt the art of Chinese calligraphy then you’re not a real expat in China (or something like that). In this workshop, you’ll be introduced to the history of clerical script and be guided to create your own works of art. All equipment provided; free tea and coffee; Please reserve online. >RMB160 (Culture Yard Students RMB80 RMB); 1-4pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石雀胡同10号 (8404 4166, cultureyard.net)

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TUE APR 7

COMMUNITY

Sat Apr 11

Gig: The Seven Mile Journey Word of post-rock’s popularity in Mainland China is spreading fast to Europe – currently riding that wave is Danish outfit, The Seven Mile Journey. Ahead of the band’s nine-city tour, which is their first in China, we get the low down on the band’s direction with member Henrik Bang.

On standing out as a post-rock band...

When we started, we were mainly inspired by bands in the hard rock genre. We have always focused on keeping these hard rock elements in our music – or at least our interpretation of it – while combining them with post-rock elements.

On their live shows...

Our main objective is always to deliver the intensity of the music with absolute dedication, giving each audience member the freedom to absorb the music in the way that makes sense to them.

On the importance of song structure...

We rarely make adjustments as we want to stay true to the original compositions.

When the songs are created we focus on limiting the instrumentation so four people can perform them live. We make sure that the few instruments we sometimes add in recordings never drive the songs, so it doesn’t feel like something is missing when we play shows.

With this is mind, we also construct our albums with almost everything being played and recorded live in the studio, to try to achieve a more authentic and intense sound.

On their songwriting process...

The main theme and storyline of the songs are often established before entering the rehearsal room. Then, almost all of the actual music is created through jamming sessions, where each member contributes. Songs like ‘Theme for Elthenbury Massacre’ and ‘When Blizzards Are Afraid’ serve as chapters to the overall storyline that link the albums and journey together. > RMB80-120; Apr 11, 9pm-late; Yugong Yishan (newnoise.taobao.com; Alpine Decline support)

DJ: Timmy Regisford The Detroit Series is back and honored to open the 2015 series with a real house legend: American DJ and producer, Timmy Regisford, who goes by the name ‘The Maestro’ in some circles. > RMB 50; 10pm till late; Migas (see Listings for details)

SAT APR 11

COMMUNITY

Eat/Drink: Great Leap Back Alley Chili Cook-Off Popular one this. Get down to the OG Great Leap hutong pub as amateur (and some not so amateur) Beijing chili chefs battle it out for cash prizes and, potentially, their faces in this very magazine.

That’s Beijing entered last year and performed poorly – you can find us at the bar this time. > RMB150 (includes sample of all chilis and two beers) 2-6pm; Great Leap Brewing Original #6 (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE Gig: Hutong Yellow Weasels Beijing favorites, the Weasels, play danceable, foot stomping tunes and downhome melodies that evoke nostalgic summer nights in the Appalachian hills. Wonderfully incongruous for downtown Beijing’s hutongs, then. > RMB50 (RMB40 presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

SUN APR 12

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Beginners Mahjong Mao once said that if you haven’t

e v ents

spent an afternoon learning the classic Chinese game of mahjong, then you haven’t really visited China (or something like that). Learn at the Culture Yard, where local Beijing Mahjong experts will pass on their skills and share some knowledge about the game’s history.

Please reserve online. > RMB120 (Culture Yard Students RMB40); 10am–12pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石雀 胡同10号 (8404 4166, cultureyard.net)

Workshop: Smart Air – Build Your Own Air Purifier Learn how well masks and filters really work, and assemble an effective DIY air purifier that is as effective as those big brand units that cost an arm and leg.

Please reserve online. > RMB250; 2-3.50pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石雀 胡同10号 (8404 4166, cultureyard.net)

community

Gig: Sleepmakeswaves with Special Guest 16MINS Sydney instrumental post-rock/prog quartet Sleepmakeswaves have played all over the world, touring with some of the scene’s biggest acts, like 65daysofstatic, Tortoise and Mono. This spring marks their long-overdue first Asian tour (which includes nine dates in China) to support second album Love of Cartography. > RMB 120 (door) / 80 (presale); 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) DJ: Grand Theft China Tour Versatile Canadian producer and DJ Grandtheft is known for huge, clubshaking performances. He’ll be at 8MM, a club quickly building a reputation for big-name bookings. > RMB 120 (door) / 80 (presale); 8MM, Building 2, Landmark Towers, East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号亮马河大厦2号楼 (东三环路边)

TUE APR 14

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: The Adrian Kelly Quartet Live With wild electric sounds blended with the more traditional textures of jazz, this electro-jazz quartet draws on diverse influences such as Miles Davis, Stravinsky, Stockhausen, and Squarepusher. > RMB 50 (RMB40 presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

Gig: Tzusing Shanghai-based producer Tzusing hits the road in support of his second EP on globally respected label, L.I.E.S. Records.

Leaning towards the darker heart of industrial techno, he’ll take on Dada before heading to shows in Russia. Support comes from Beijing’s own Fratricide and Immune. > RMB50; Dada (see Listings for details)

WED APR 15

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Peking Opera In this workshop, you will learn the history and classic stories of Peking Opera, one of the most popular forms of traditional culture, with 200 years of history.

Try your hand at this workshop session.

If it’s free, there’s nothing to lose, right? > Free; 3.30-5.30pm; CLE classroom, Room 605 (6th floor), 9 Jianwai SOHO Building, 39 Dongsanhuan Zahonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外 SOHO东区9号楼605 (5869 5800, info@ chinaledu.com, www.chinaledu.com)

THU-SAT APR 16-18

COMMUNITY

Fair: Edible Oil and Olive Oil Expo To ‘add oil’ is a lucky thing. So there should be no place more auspicious than the pithily-named 12th International High-end Health Edible Oil & Olive Oil Expo. Maybe you’ll find a new supplier or business partner. Even if you don’t, you’ll get the latest developments from the edible oil industry. If that’s your thing. > Free; 9am-4.30pm; China International Exhibition Centre (CIEC), 6 Beisanhuan Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区北三环东路6号 (150 1100 5702, 2355821754@qq.com , en.oilexpo.com.cn)

THU APR 16

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Gulou Double Decker A session of dangerous new sounds at the Temple/Dada upstairs/downstairs duplex. Live sets from Lonely Leary and Mammals upstairs at Temple, while downstairs in bass cage Dada, there are DJ sets from Inner Mongolian producer & DJ Muren, iimmune, Dee & Doubao, Dizzy Barrels, and DJ Kill (Mafeisan’s Yangyang) and more. > Free; 9pm till late; Dada (see Listings for details)

FRI APR 17

NIGHTLIFE

Party: Funk Fever’s Six-Year

Anniversary Jam The Funk Fever crew returns from a short hiatus to celebrate their sixth anniversary. In honor of the occasion, they’ll be throwing down some serious surprises and giveaways, as well as your usual dose of delectable funk and soul. > RMB 50; 10pm and later; Migas (see Listings for details)

SUN APR 19

BRITISH SCHOOL OF BEIJING CHARITY FASHION SHOW It may be another five months until the return of London Fashion Week but that doesn’t mean you have to wait around for your British fashion fix. Need some inspiration for your spring/summer wardrobe right now? Then get yourself over to The British School of Beijing (BSB)’s Shunyi campus for Lights Out, a fashion show organized by Year 12 students – Amy Wei, Ella Malibiran, Eduarda Borba and Julia Torres.

Having teamed up with a range of high-profile sponsors and designers, including Givenchy and Li-Ning Sports, this promises to be the real deal. Models of all ages (from preschoolers to staff) will take a range of fashion items to the catwalk, in addition to singing and dancing performances from students. And if you were wondering about the name Lights Out, then the free glow stick that comes with each ticket may hint at the event’s theme. We’ve been told to expect dim lighting and a neon décor. Glow-in-the-dark dress code is encouraged, though not mandatory.

For those already wowed by the fact that four IB students could pull off such an event, then here’s the really impressive fact: it’s all for charity. All money earned from the fashion show will go to one of two charities, as part of the schools Creativity, Action, Service (CAS) program. First is the Little Adoption Shop, a pet shelter in Shunyi where one man and just three employees care for over 300 dogs with serious health conditions. The second is The Tanzania Foundation fund, which helps to improve living standards for impoverished local children in an orphanage in Tanzania.

The community is already getting behind the event by making donations and offering free services. Fashion sponsor Laurent Falcon, who owns eponymous hair salons in Sanlitun and CBD, will be responsible for all the models’ hair and makeup. He’s also put forward a donation to the show’s good causes. So buy your ticket and give what you can. If you’re feeling generous, then get yourself a VIP ticket to enjoy the show with Champagne and a prime runway-side seat.

Additionally, all tickets will provide access to other fun activities, beginning from 4pm. Free catering and free flow beverages also sweeten the deal. > VIP ticket: adults (RMB200), students (RMB150), regular ticket: adult (RMB150), secondary student (RMB100), primary student (RMB70), lap infants (free); show 6-7pm, activities from 4pm; British School of Beijing, Shunyi campus (see Listings for details)

Gig: Rolling Bowling Release Party Rockabilly trio Rolling Bowling celebrate the release of their newest vinyl with a party at School Bar. Expect plenty of fun and dancing with these 1950s-inspired, counter-culture aficionados. > RMB40; 9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings for details)

SAT APR 18

COMMUNITY

Tour: Under Siege With Beijing Postcards Make your way down to Capital M to hear about the summer of 1900, when 4,000 foreigners and Chinese lived under siege from radical mystic rebels for 55 days. Beijing Postcards will lead you into the old Legation Quarter and tell stories of the bombing of the French Embassy, the wavering Qing Court and how 200,000 bullets flew into the sky without finding a single target. > RMB 200; 2pm; Capital M (see Listings for details) Market: Spring Fling Fashion and Lifestyle Pop-up Market Shop the spring collections of independent Beijing-based designers at this one-day pop-up market in Aotu Studio.

Featuring jewelry from Design by Jet, Bekkas Dzines and AMULET by D; fashion from PALMA Boutique and Made by Mir; ceramics from Ubi Gallery; art and homewares from Teibido Studio and Studio Henny van Nistelrooy, and others.

Cash only. > Free; 2-7pm, Aotu Studio, Beixinqiao, Toutiao 67, Dongcheng东城区北新桥 头条67号 (183-1097-4605, dcdurfee@ yahoo.com)

NIGHTLIFE Gig: Release Party Pop-inspired electro punk outfit Heat Mark celebrate their new EP with a

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e v ents

release party. Having added a drummer to the lineup last year, expect bigger sounds from these School Bar stalwarts. > RMB40; 9.30pm; School Bar (see Listings for details)

community

SUN APR 19

COMMUNITY

Tour: Beijing Qipao Tour This Beijing tour will examine how the qipao was originally used as a tool of oppression by the Manchurians and how the film industry encouraged people to look down on this traditional style of dress. You’ll also meet some of the best qipao producers in Beijing and explore how the clothing is viewed by Han Chinese in the present day. > RMB390, RMB290 for kids; More information: 138 1777 0229, info@newmantours.com, www.newmantours.com

NIGHTLIFE Gig: School Bar Fifth Anniversary Snapline, Steely Heart, Hot Waves and legendary Japanese punks Jet Boys will help School Bar celebrate five years as one of the capital’s go-to venues for rock ‘n’ roll. > Free; 9.30pm; The School Bar (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE Gig: Atlantic Attraction Dutch indie rockers Atlantic Attraction are a four-piece with a love for analogue synthesizers and traveling the world on tour. The band finds takes inspiration from the likes of acts like Foals, Kavinsky and The Boxer Rebellion, so a good one for fans of British indie. > RMB 40(door)/30 (presale); 9pm; DDC (see Listings for details).

SUN APR 26

COMMUNITY

Kid: Drama Games A morning of drama, games and theater sports, kids will work on their improvisation, role-playing and creativity. Theatre mistress Emma Johnston will begin with warm-up games, before moving into a range of activities for aspiring actors. For ages 5 and up. > Free, 11am, reservations required: 6702 2727 or reservations@capital-mbeijing.com; Capital M (see Listings for details)

ARTS Concert: Harry Potter – Chinese Orchestra of Film This symphony concert will feature pieces found in classic films like Harry Potter, Captain American, Mission Impossible and Chariots of Fire. >RMB 80 (up to 500); 7.30pm; National Centre for the Performing Arts, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街 2号

THU APR 30

NIGHTLIFE

THU APR 23

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Suffocation US band Suffocation are widely regarded as one of the godfathers of death metal.

Their fusion of technicality, groove and sheer unrelenting brutality has been imitated but never quite duplicated. They arrive in Beijing as part of their Despise the World tour. > RMB 360 (door) / 280 (presale before April 23); 8pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details).

FRI APR 24

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Alvaro Also known as Jasper Helderman, Alvaro, has actively been involved in electronic music for more than five years. With an evident devotion to his unique sound, the DJ’s fan base continues to grow. > RMB100; Elements Club, 58 Gongti Don, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西路58号工 体西门院内

FRI/SAT APR 24/25

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Los Residentes All-Stars The very best DJs of Los Residentes combine to kick-off an even bigger summer season at the newly re-fashioned Migas terrace. The space’s transformation is not to be missed, so come up and shake what you got on the dance floor with the Beijing skyline as your backdrop. > RMB 40; 10pm and later; Migas (see Listings for details)

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COMMUNITY Charity: 3e Charity Community Day Get rid of all those old toys, books and skinny jeans that used to fit. As well as the table top sale, Roundabout Charity Store are hosting a book fair. Plenty of activities and games for kids who aren’t so keen on shopping. > Free; 10am-12pm; 3e International School, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-1号 (to book a table for RMB100, please email community@3einternationalschool. org; all table fees donated to Roundabout Charity; 6437 3344, www.3einternationalschool.org)

Apr 11, 12, 24 & 25

Tour: The Story of Communism in China, with Bespoke Beijing Standing outside an inconspicuous brown building near Temple Restaurant, it’s hard to believe that it was once the hotbed of Chinese Communist thought. Yes, this little-known former university is where a 25-year-old Mao Zedong would busy himself arranging books in the tiny library; where outspoken dean Chen Duxiu (later the founder of the Party) would publish copies of controversial journal La Jeunesse in an attempt to galvanize young minds like Mao’s into action; and where the May 4 Movement – a student protest against the Treaty of Versailles – would take shape. We learn all this and more within just 30 minutes of Bespoke Beijing’s latest public walking tour, ‘The Story of Communism in China.’ And then some.

The company’s expert Frank is an articulate and engaging guide and, crucially, a local. The more the tour develops, the more questions you feel compelled to ask – especially since he’s not afraid to address the topics you worry might usually offend. A guide of 14 years (he’s toured presidents and CEOs), he says his own understanding of the topic was accelerated by the fact that foreign visitors always asked the same questions: “What do you think of Chairman Mao? Why do people in China still worship him so much?”

“I think it’s a lifetime’s work to answer those questions well,” he adds. “When my grandfather died, my father didn’t show any emotion. But when Chairman Mao died my father wept. I just couldn’t understand why… and it took time for my father to know the answer to that question too.”

The tour spans three sites in a bid to explain the Party’s past, present and future: the old Beijing University, the beautiful former residence of Song Qingling and Tiananmen Square. And, through a series of key players – from the aforementioned university dean to the Song sisters, Sun Yatsen and Mao himself – we slowly unfold the backstory of one of the world’s most talked-about political parties. If you live in Beijing and want to know what you’re talking about at dinner parties, this one’s a must. > Bespoke Beijing’s ‘The Story of Communism In China’ Tour takes place on Saturday 11, Sunday 12, Saturday 24 and Sunday 25 April. Tickets cost RMB300/ person. Email info@bespoke-beijing.com to reserve your space or go to www.bespoketravelcompany.com to buy online.

Party: Long Shen Dao and The Partysquad To celebrate the release of a new joint track between the Chinese reggae band, Long Shen Dao and the Dutch DJ duo, The Partysquad, get down to Tango to hear them perform the song (and a few others). > RMB150 (door), RMB100 (presale); 10pm-4am; Tango Third Floor, 79, Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng东城区和平里 西街79号糖果三层 (186 1125 7960) Gig: The Riot School bar hosts a night of indie rock from Swedish band The Riot, with support from Secret Club. > RMB50; 9pm; School Bar (see Listings for details).

EVERY TUE

COMMUNITY

Film: British Comedy Month For those who love that quirky British sense of humor. Four movies lined up this month: Borat (April 7); Life of Brian (April 14); The Lady Killers (April 21); In the Loop (April 28). > Free, 8-10pm; Là-Bas Bar, 34 Jiaodaokou Bei Santiao, Dongcheng 东 城区交道口北三条34号 (185 0004 1765, chalffy@163.com)

EVERY THU

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Irish Music night Beijing’s foremost Irish band, Blackwater, play an open session from 8 to 10pm.

Irish music videos follow the rest of the night. > Free, 8-11 pm; Paddy O’Shea’s, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng 东城 区东直门外大街28号

CITY SCENES Conjoined triplets win golden tickets (also conjoined) to receive life-changing operation in Korea, but not before an equally life-changing buffet at The Hilton Beijing Wangfujing.

The cast of director Michael Bay’s upcoming Scooby Doo high-fashion remake is finally unveiled at W Hotel’s Ladies’ Night.

Superglue mishap doesn’t derail DJ’s performance at RELEASE’s White Valentine party at LIV.

The professor takes out his research team to celebrate the discovery of groundbreaking red-wine-to-white-wine formula at Craft, Crowne Plaza Lido.

Cosplay biker chicks still manage a smile after discovering that the ice cream they ordered at Jue Creative Market was in fact artisinal mashed potato.

Mass wedding or the Kempinski’s Vienna Ball? Only you can decide.

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Weekly Specials

Happy hours Meal deals Brunch

Food and Drink

Ladies' nights

MODO Urban Deli Here at That’s Beijing our favorite mealtime isn’t breakfast, lunch, dinner or even brunch – it’s the picnic. A meal out in summer sun, with the sweet aroma of grass and the even sweeter aroma of daytime drinking… what’s not to love? (The sweat and insect-infested underwear, maybe?) Anyway, it might only be April, but we’re already in picnic mode, and there’s no better place to stock up than MODO Urban Deli.

Not only does it provide handy picnic packs (RMB200/300/400 gets you food for two, cutlery and a map, in a handy tote bag), but its menu has recently had a complete makeover so there are all sorts of new dishes to try. We’re recommended the South American steak sandwich. “It tastes like a hug from a samba dance instructor,” Anna from MODO tells us. “Tender beef cubes with sweet roasted onions and peppers, melted cheese and guac in a crispy baguette. Pairs well with half a roasted veggie quinoa salad.” For a sweet deal, try the set for two: share a salad, pasta and grilled main, with two glasses of wine, all for RMB298. > Daily 10.30am-10pm; MODO Urban Deli (see Listings for details)

M O N DAY to FR I DAY Monday Mai Bar Buy two cocktails, get one free. > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

Monday to Thursday XIU Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, 6-9pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)

Monday to friday One East Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per person, 12:00-2:30pm.

2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 酒店2层 5865 5030 Great Leap Brewing 11:30-2pm, free soft drink or juice with any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Pale Ale #6. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see listings for details) Hagaki Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge.

5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Jing Yaa Tang Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 6 8 | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) Agua Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ person for three courses. > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Greyhound Café Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details) Village Café Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB88+15% (2 courses) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5210)

Monday to Saturday Twilight Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, RMB20 off cocktails. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 (5900 5376)

Tuesday Flamme Two-for-one steak all day. > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) El Gran Bocado

Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as you want. > 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰 作大厦1层 (6416 1715)

tuesday to Friday S.T.A.Y Restaurant Three courses including coffee and tea for RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Mosaic Buy-one-get-one-free pizza every Wednesday lunchtime at Mosaic. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Xian Whiskey night, discounts on special selected whiskeys. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9810)

wednesday

thursday

Great Leap Brewing All day Wednesday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see listings for details)

Domain Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger promotion. > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9830)

Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体西门58号 (6551 2373) 4Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ weekly celebration of KTV. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

Opus Terrace Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)

Friday Mesh House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 free. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)

e v ents

E v ery day Parlor Daily 6-8pm, buy one get one for free. > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) The Big Smoke Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, house wines and beers. > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) Blue Frog Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all drinks. > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太 古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) Centro Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光 华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 (6561 8833 ext. 42) Feast (Food by East) Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% with a glass of wine or soft drinks. > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9820)

Flamme Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Modo Urban Deli 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 and beer RMB15. > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207) Mosaic 4-8pm daily happy hour. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Mosto 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and beer. > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 园3层 (5208 6030) NOLA 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails including daiquiris. > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水

南街A-11 (8563 6215) R Lounge Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard drinks and cocktails. > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 层 (5863 8112) Transit Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Isola 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138.

3-6pm Fashion high tea 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on selected drinks 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course RMB238, 3-course RMB258. > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里 北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) Bene Restaurant Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta. > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路36 号 (5798 8888) Cafe Sambal Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats and vegetables each, varying daily. With

soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets from RMB55-65 > See Listings for details Beijing Marriott Hotel Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles and desserts, including juice or tea, RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄 云路甲26号 北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 8888) Vivid Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 6310) Transit Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert for RMB88. > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Factory (By Salt) Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ catering, from RMB150pp > Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street, 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区 798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼 一层1号 (010 5762-6451)

Weekend saturday Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) R Lounge Selection of drinks for free all night. > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 4层 (5863 8241)

sunday Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) The Village Cafe Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under 12) > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 Qi Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim sum including one double-boiled soup for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of

Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 6666) Senses and Prego Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne Brunch, international and Asian specialties with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 percent service. > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街 乙9号(6629 7810) Seasonal Tastes Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent surcharge. > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 三环北路7号(5922 8880) Sureño RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for free flow Champaign (all prices subject to 15% service charge) > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240) Vasco’s

Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet with free-flow champagne for RMB458 plus 15 percent service charge. > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区 王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411)

saturday to sunday

Eudora Station Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with one main and free flow juice or coffee for RMB98. > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 8331)

Agua Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 for free flow drinks. > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)

Migas Migas rocks two different brunch options: Saturday, grilled meat heavy; and Sunday, paella heavy (both RMB210, +RMB138 for 2hrs free flow cava, coffee, tea soft drinks). > Daily 12pm-3pm; Migas 6/F Nali Patio, Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 北街那里花园6层

Aroma Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 percent service charge. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 国路83甲(5908 8161)

Mosaic Sat-Sun 11.30am-4pm, Middle-Eastern style brunch in Sanlitun. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065)

Café Sambal Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling out weekend brunch. Three courses plus coffee, tea or fruit punch. > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 43号 (6400 4875)

Sui Yuan Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 plus 15 percent surcharge. > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)

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listings OPEN DOOR

restaurant

The Hot One Hundred About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

CHINESE

photo by holly li

Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine

indian kitchen Naan Stop You, fair readers of That’s Beijing, voted Indian Kitchen as your favorite Indian restaurant at our Golden Fork Awards last December. And what good taste you all have. With some of the most authentic curries in the city (which arrive with some genuinely friendly service), we find it difficult to stay away from this place. Don’t miss our latest find, the potato masala (RMB40), which is rich, complex and served with one of the biggest dosas we’ve ever seen (for the uninitiated, that’s a crispy crepe made from rice batter and black lentils).

Elsewhere on the menu, you’ll find all the classics, from rogan josh to dopiaza.

But if you fancy straying from the usual, might we suggest a dish that we’d never tried before – the masala crab (RMB150 per 400g). Get on your plastic gloves, grab your crab fork and get digging. There’s a meaty bounty to be found inside the beast and the pairing with dark spices is divine. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm; Indian Kitchen (see Listings for details)

8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 酒店2层 (5960 8822)

Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is the place for mountainous shaved ice desserts and creamy bubble teas. > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait.

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. com.cn for details

The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) Resembling something between a nightclub and a theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes.

> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)

29 Grill at The Conrad Sunday Roast With the Most For a Brit, there’s something quite unsettling about a Frenchman cooking a traditional British Sunday roast. Then again, for a French chef, it’s perhaps equally galling to be made to cook British cuisine. But at 29 Grill, at The Conrad Hotel, where a fine spread of roast meats – complete with gravy and Yorkshire pudding – is expertly prepared by French head chef, Yannick Ehrsam, misgivings are to be put to one side. We would say a roast dinner here at 29 Grill will bring back fond memories of Sunday dinners with the family – but how many Sunday dinners at home had beef, chicken and lamb – as well as a vast selection of fresh sashimi and sushi which can be guzzled alongside free flow sparkling wine? Yes, the 29 Grill’s has all that, plus a fabulous selection of salads, cold cuts, cheeses and desserts. Don’t miss the freshly made crepes – a great way to round off the meal. > RMB588 (+15% per person); every Sunday 11.30am-3pm; 29 Grill at The Conrad Hotel (see Listings for details) 7 0 | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m

Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of China, including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)

Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese restaurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, so expect sweet and delicate and sweet flavors with impeccable presentation.

> Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广场C 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666)

Peking Duck Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da

Expensive...................................¥ Expense Account ....................¥¥ Highly Recommended ..............* Top Ten ....................................**

Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadongdadong.com for more locations

Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

Shanghai Shanghai Min 小南国 Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains.

> 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469)

Sichuan/Hunan Chuan Ban 川办 * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号 院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

South Memory 望湘园 This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with locals. > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. southmemory.com for more locations

Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 The menu here is old-fashioned and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations

Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service complete the experience. > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com for other locations.

Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up

listings to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Chinese dining at its best. > Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

Yunnan Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大 街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect district for Yunnan food, and this little gem is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town. > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318)

Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian)

site East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东 中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 9289, see www.dingdingxiang.com.cn for other locations)

Haidilao 海底捞火锅 * Hotpot in China is like religion; everyone’s got their own brand. Either way, the raw meats and vegetables, cooked communally, is divine, and the outstanding customer service makes Haidilao a fitting church > Daily, 24 hrs; 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80 Middle School), Chaoyang 朝阳区白家庄路甲2号 ( 八十中学西侧) (6595 2982, see http:www.haidilaohuoguo.com for other locations)

Regional Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites. > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281)

Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.

Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational.

> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am).

Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)

Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back. > Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Dumplings Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food. > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommendation the prices have risen and the walls are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)

Hot Pot Ding Ding Xiang 鼎鼎香 * Classier than most hotpot joints, Ding Ding Xiang features a spacious dining room of sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade huoguo in their own individual pot. The delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic. > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, Yuanjia International Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (oppo-

Migas El Asador Brunch

> Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800)

What Saturdays Were Made For

Makye Ame (Tibetan) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb.

Sadly the 150-word space this paragraph allows is nowhere near enough to do justice to Migas’ new El Asador Saturday brunch. To be honest, we’ve been to so many new brunch concepts recently (#toughlife) that we weren’t expecting anything new. Woe betide such foolishness! We don’t imagine a single better meal on offer between 11.30am and 3pm on a Saturday in Beijing. Highlight: the sausage. Succulent, juicy, meat perfection. Bonus: it’s carted around fresh to your table. So is all the other meat, which also falls in the ‘highlight’ category: proper rustic dry aged black Angus picaña beef, which tastes like it was still part of a sentient cow minutes previously. Along with the chicken, pork and duck it’s about as much fun as we’ve had eating animals in Beijing. Chefs Aitor and Fernando do the rounds, admiring all their fine work and getting diners plastered with red wine, cava and gin and tonics. We even heard Parliament on the sound system. It’s wild. Only downside? It ends at 3pm, so you’ll have to wait a few hours until sundown when the party gets going again. > RMB210 for food, RMB138 for free-flow cava; Saturdays 11.30-3pm; Migas (see Listings for details)

> Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街 甲11号 (6506 9616)

An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

OPEN DOOR

ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shaobing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good.

Queues of locals are testament. > Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东 城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like dapanji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)

WESTERN Fine Dining Aria ¥¥ (European) * A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around RMB150, the prices reflect that.

In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Piedmont wine it is named after.

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 酒店内 (5908 8151)

Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.

The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

> Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) * Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinvention of this long-standing Beijing fine dining institution. > Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm; 95 Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng 东城区东华门大 街95号 (6526 8883)

Ricci Café A Wealth of Options We were expecting Wudaokou’s Ricci café to be full of students poring over textbooks. Wrong. It’s located next to a sleek office block which houses – amongst others – Google’s offices. As a result it’s full of smart young professionals. We were also expecting the Wudaokou café to serve student budgetfriendly fare. Double wrong. The menu of “creative eats” has a range of dishes that yo-yo between western and Asian, but without getting stuck in a confused fusion mess. We try a sweet vegetarian flatbread (RMB68) topped with sweet potato puree, candied walnuts, fresh ricotta cheese and a balsamic reduction.

Next a beef rendang (RMB68) – slow cooked beef with hints of coconut. Then onto polenta bites (RMB38), which are creamy cubes of the grain topped with oven-roasted cherry tomatoes and wasabi-infused aioli. Finally, check out the crispy rice balls (RMB45), which are risotto balls stuffed with marinated pork and served with a soy-lime aioli. Finish off with a creative coffee – we go for a delicious ginger latte (RMB37/34/31 – large/medium/small). > Ricci Café, 1/F, Keji Dasha Tower D, Bldg 8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidan 海淀区中关村东路1号清华科技园8号楼科技大厦 D座1层 w w w.t h at s m a g s . c o m | a p r i l 2 0 1 5 | 7 1

listings Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea.

you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant.

Héritage ¥¥ A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with Michelin star restaurant experience and an extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town.

> Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

> Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727)

> 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广 场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu. >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店 亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 (5695 8888)

S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics kitchen concept, which includes a mouthwatering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for international standard fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香 格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩 祝寺23号 (8400 2232)

Contemporary Western Alfie’s ¥ (British) What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate.

> Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

Caribeño (Latin) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes from all over the Latin continent here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos. > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

Chi (Organic, Fusion) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced.

From the owners of neighboring Saffron. > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 67号 (6445 7076)

C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh shells from Canada, South Africa, France, USA and more – and they are well worth the price. The fries are the best we’ve had in Beijing, beer and wine selection also excellent. > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

Grill 79 (Steak) With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.

Starfish (Seafood) ¥ * Starfish is among the very best seafood restaurants in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant is great for late-night dates, or just hanging out along the large wooden bar and enjoying an Irish rock with a craft beer. > Tue-Sun 11am-11pm, 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416 5499)

Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308)

VIC Not to be confused with the notorious nightclub of the same name, this VIC is the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restaurant. All the major world cuisines are in attendance here – make you pay special attentions to the French-inspired breads and pastries – as is the customary Sunday champagne brunch. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广场C 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Yi House (Contemporary Western) Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Café/Deli/Sandwich Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.

Gets cozy at night.

> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069)

Café Zarah (Café) * A smart new interior and menu for this longstanding cafe has propelled it from hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, airy and with a terrace for summer, the only downside is it’s always packed. > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, with somewhat questionable price tags.

> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm.

833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 8号楼833 (6417 1318)

MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary Western) * Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)

MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent.

> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

> Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 朝阳公园路6号院 蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

Missa (European) Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet,

Nasca Café Colorful and quirky shopping mall style café, with Amazonian coffee, teas and there’s a decent range of sandwiches and

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pizzas, available for delivery.

> Daily 11am-10pm, B1/F, City Mall, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号都汇天地购物中心B1 楼 (6592 4537) > Additional branches in Sanlitun South; Volkswagen Building, Liangmahe (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

Ricci Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit (duh), this creative café has a funky, kookymeets-organic vibe and serves up some of the best casual western food in town, and a great brunch at the Wudaokou location (Chaoyang branch closed weekends).

> Chaoyang: Mon-Fri 8am-8pm, Sat/Sun closed; F1-109, 1/F, Borui Dasha, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路甲26号博瑞大厦 F1-109 (6516 7588) > Additional location in Wudaokou (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide ranging menu has something for everyone, especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types. > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Liangma River. Menu features British classics like fish & chips and bangers & mash. The breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms.

>Daily Tue-Fri 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am (kitchen closes at 10pm), Sat/Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am; Liangmahe Nan Lu, west side of Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马河南路 新东路西侧渔阳饭店对 面 (8532 5335)

TRIBE * Induction to this Tribe appears to involve spending somewhere in the region of RMB100 on a kale salad and a freshly pressed juice, while basking in the warm, conceited glow that comes from knowing that you are Eating Well. Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic. > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 8587 1899

Wagas (Contemporary Western) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town.

The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

> Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional locations in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

American/BBQ/Grill The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm.

First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com)

Home Plate BBQ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路 路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

NOLA N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)

Tim’s Texas BBQ *

Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn homestyle briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s recommended. > Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 2号院 (6591 9161)

Union Bar and Grill The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff.

The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)

The Woods * New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号 新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)

Burgers Blue Frog This Shanghai hamburger franchise has been keeping Americans in China obese since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed.

> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Burger Bar Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and truffles. Burger King this ain’t. > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二 层 ( 5690 7000)

Chef Too ¥ With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town. > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

Steak 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号2层 (6584 6270))

Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)

> Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号 丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contemporary Western) ¥¥ * The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order.

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西 城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

Flamme (Contemporary Western) Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing.

Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail menu.

> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤 港商场269号 (8420 0270)

O’Steak A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic

listings French bistro – not a Guinness in sight.

> Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 8250)

Mexican/Tex Mex Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 (6416 5212)

El Gran Bocado (Mexican) This unassuming little taquiera has a colorful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex dishes, and one of the best nacho plates we’ve had in Beijing.

> Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyanf 朝阳区幸福村中路杰作 大厦1层 (6416 1715)

Taco Bar Rising from the ashes of its deceased hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, popular and able to produce some of the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only RMB45 for three and great cocktails to complement.

> Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026)

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (KoreanMexican fusion)

Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains. > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Opera Bombana ¥ Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and certainly the only to have opened a restaurant in Beijing. > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)

Pizza Tube Station Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be the biggest in town. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装 大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

La Pizza Among the upper echelons of Beijing pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branches in Solana and pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3

> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港 湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990)

Spanish Agua ¥ * Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce.

Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Cali’ cocktails, too.

Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508)

Bene ¥ * Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Cepe ¥ In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb.

Weekends at

Brunch RMB298/198 Infinite drinks RMB168 4/F Nali Patio, Sanlitun Bar Street Tel: 5208 6188 Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant.

German Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus with a Filipino cover band can be) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site). > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 层(6503 5555)

Paulaner Brauhaus The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

Ganges Conveniently located above popular Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer. > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details.

Indian Kitchen

> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)

Biteapitta * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 层 (6467 2961)

Cuju Moroccan Bistrot & Rummery * CuJu used to be a cozy little hutong sports bar with an incredible rum selection, but now it’s a cozy little Moroccan bistrot and rummery – so it still has an awesome rum selection. Badr’s Moroccan food might be the best in town.

Mosaic Restaurant & Bar Promising “the best shawarmas and shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar offers a range of great value delicacies and cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with a friendly and personalized service. One of few places in Beijing to offer genuine Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is a hidden Sanlitun gem.

> Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32 号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065)

Rumi (Middle Eastern

The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation and very available on JinShiSong online delivery. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255)

Raj Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authentic Indian, espcially the rather fine naan. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675)

South-East Asian Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors. > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com

Malacca Legend Malaysian food with a view, this spacious and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for their beef rendang or green curry prawns. > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗各 庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccalegend. com)

) Niajo ¥ * Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.

> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)

With homely Mediterranean influences and

Indian

1001 Nights There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The whole Arabic dining package is on offer here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.

> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 6层 (5208 6061)

> Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳 区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com; 6416 3499)

Asian

African/Middle Eastern

Migas ¥ * The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations.

Isola Bar & Grill Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza.

> Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

> Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 园 (5208 6188)

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街 丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666)

Mercante ¥ *

> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 3层 (5208 6052)

> 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie, Dongcheng 东城区细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)

> Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)

Italian

a charming management, Niajo is prime Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain (minus the constant sunshine).

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi branch worth it.

Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it. > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号 旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

Flor de Loto Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Korea-town.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with frequent live indie performances.

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listings > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Li Sanlitun then.

> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

Purple Haze (Thai) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town. Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45). > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝 阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

Korean Ai Jiang Shan This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together.

Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain.

> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座 大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags. com for other locations

Saveurs de Coree This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true. > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Susu (Vietnamese) The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish.

Vegetarian

Japanese

> Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2层0260 (5900 1288) Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

> Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)

Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) As much a California roll joint as true Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists. > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Inagiku * This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near to perfection as you’re likely to find.

Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to be missed.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 (8517 2838)

Sake Manzo *

Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang.

Great range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and they offer cooking classes as well.

Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city. > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 19号. (6446 2073)

bars TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) The brainchild of local spirits professional Douglas Williams, this bar provides the discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and straight-razor shaves.

> 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com)

The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town. > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608)

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6 层 (6581 0072)

Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu RMB1,000), but what would you expect from some of the best sushi in town?

Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above.

> Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷 10号 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)

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8-Bit Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner?

Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable RMB25 a glass. > Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159 1025 6538))

The Brick A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.

> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院 天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Capital Spirits A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely hutong setting, friendly owners and great bottle collection.

> Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东 城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. com)

CICADA Ultralounge ¥ The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge

bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost.

> Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9898)

Cu Ju Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destination and sports fan’s manna all rolled into one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering North African food with an international cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums and sports broadcasts from basketball to cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best all-around bar-restaurants. > 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, www.cujubeijing.com

Daily Routine 日常生活 This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough.

Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and the drinks at this establishment change seasonally according to ingredient availability.

Light cafe fare is available during the day. > 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159

El Nido * The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally.

> Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 里花园D405室 (5208 6076)

First Floor First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company.

At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps. // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)

Fubar Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name. Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.

> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人 体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

Glen ¥ Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere.

See for yourself. > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)

Glen Classic ¥ Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special.

> Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草 园26号 (6551 6788)

Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good.

Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角 胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm;

Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. greatleapbrewing.com)

Heaven Supermarket A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415 6513)

Hidden Lounge * Although frustrating to find, Hidden Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Ichikura ¥ One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails.

Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge. > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环 北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

The Irish Volunteer Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret.

A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 号 (6438 5581)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails. > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 4号院 ( 6503 2757)

Jing-A Taproom ** In just a few years, these guys developed from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding publicans with their own range of souvenir T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-andmortar taproom, which is large, warm and sociable, and has up to 16 different beers on tap. > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院

Maggie’s ¥ A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture. > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 门 (8562 8142)

Mai Bar * Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town.

> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)

Mao Mao Chong ** The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)

Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).

> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Parlor Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.

listings > Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)

Revolution * Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍 * A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086) > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** This popular microbrewery has its own pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs.

Quality ales that change depending on the season, heated floors and a great little kitchen round out the deal.

> Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

The Tree A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.

Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)

10 Best Livehouses 2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 * Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire trap.

That place by the drive-through. But there’s no denying that this artsy alternative venue has its fingers on an eclectic musical pulse. In summer, it really comes alive with barbecue pits, all-day parties and a whole lotta love. > Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu (inside the drive-in movie theater park), Chaoyang District 朝阳 区亮马桥路21号 (6436 8998,www.2kolegas.com)

Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Great little livehouse near Meishuguan with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock.

Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly. > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969)

Hot Cat Club 热力猫 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space. > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 46号(6400 7868).

Jianghu 江湖酒吧 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the gethome-for-the-babysitter crowd.

> 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡 同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@gmail.com)

Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍 Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this former warehouse plays host to a Silk Road smorgasbord of musical encounters from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget the overpriced bar and come for the killer sound, comfortable wraparound balcony and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang restaurant upstairs. > Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 1113, www.mako001.com)

MAO Livehouse 光芒 * From the denim-jacketed doorman to the

well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hitting this side of the Drum Tower.

> 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区 鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山 Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines. > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号 当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

School Bar 学校酒吧 * Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947)

Temple 坛 * Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 202 (131 6107 0713)

XP 小萍 * From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary D-22, rises the brave new experimental club XP. Operated and owned by former D-22 main man (and noted economist) Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic projections, drone-core jazz and the latest in cutting-edge Beijing sound.

> 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just south of Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城区地安门内大 街四楼巷 (6406 9947)

Zajia Lab 杂家 A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d expect an Italian Sinologist to open a venue – big on film screenings, A/V projects, avant-garde puppetry and choice but obscure live music for the adventurous. > Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同宏 恩观前殿 (156 0112 2252, 8404 9141, www.zajia.cc)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711

Hotel Bars Atmosphere ¥¥ Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.

> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大 酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

Centro ¥ Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 1层 (6561 8833)

China Bar ¥¥ Top views from the 65th floor and flash drinks are the attractions on offer at this hip hotel bar.

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)

Xian ¥ This enlongated bar space makes a nice spot for refreshment after a day spent

shopping at neighboring Indigo.

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)

Sports Bars The Den At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and grows steadily sadder as night turns to day.

It can get rough and ready come dawn.

Solid (cheap) menu, good location and those opening times earn it a place. > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边

The Local * Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.

Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another. > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体北路4号院 (6591 9525)

Paddy O’Shea’s * Founder Karl Long airlifted an entire Irishthemed pub, including residents, from a council estate in Limerick and gently deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports, no one seems to have noticed.

> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

V Sports Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars. > Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)

Nightclubs The Bar at Migas * A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man.

Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics to become one of the most infamous clubs in the capital. > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333)

GALLERY 798 Art District Picks Galleria Continua * In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua is the international gallery. Their warehouse space is a forum for high-caliber artists from nearly every continent, including several of China’s artistic nobility. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2 号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.com)

Long March Space Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by exacting standards from both the 20-odd Chinese artists he represents and the overall design of his topical and uncompromising exhibitions. International clout was inevitable. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com)

Pace Beijing With locations in New York, London and Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is idealized for. Go there! > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号 大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com)

Space Station Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to have a good curatorial understanding of space and high-quality 2D work.

> Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术 区中一街 (5978 9671)

> Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)

Tang Contemporary Art Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installation and curatorial theory. With locations in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang focuses on promoting artistic exchange throughout East Asia.

Chocolate It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women.

Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows.

Ullens Center for Contemporary Art Filling the largest factory space in 798 with Chinese and international art, the UCCA has the curatorial power and financial backing to put together some of Beijing’s most impressive exhibitions.

> Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

Dada * It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene. > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B 栋101室 (183 1108 0818)

Lantern * Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体 育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989)

MIX A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix is one of those places in Beijing you have to experience before you leave. Not much is forbidden in this underground hip-hop disco palace and if you don’t leave with hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong.

> Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ sohu.com

Vics Separated at birth from its identical twin brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti sweatbox meat-market chic at its very finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody

> Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒 仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. atngcontemporary.com)

> RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca. org.cn)

Caochangdi Art Village Platform China * Platform China has a Gallery A & B, one directly across from the other, about equal in size and each devoted to the promotion of experimental creation, from sound installation to performative, 3D and 2D art. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. No. 319-1, East End Art Zone A, Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang District 朝阳 区草场地村319-1艺术东区A区内(6432 0091, www. platformchina.org)

ShanghART Beijing Originating in 2007 in Shanghai, this institution skyrocketed as a major exhibitor of Chinese photographic and digital media art. Now representing over 40 artists with five Asian locations, ShanghART is an international festival regular. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 261 Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地261号 (6432 3202, www.shanghartgallery.com)

Three Shadows Photography Art Centre Elegantly utilitarian in design, the V-shaped gallery is an ideal venue to accommodate all sizes and forms of photography. The courtyard also hosts lavish openings, screenings and concerts. > Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 115A Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地155号 (6431 9693, www.threeshadows.cn)

Chambers Fine Art Beijing With its compeer gallery in New York, Chambers is a matriarch with extensive roots in the local-studio scene that allows

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listings Big Apple headhunters to cull next generation avant-garde and provide a stepping stone to international recognition.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127 3298, www.chambersfineart.com)

White Space Beijing There are no restricting on the art this gallery supports, leading to some of the area’s more perplexing exhibitions. Always fun and on the pulse of vitality, though empirical value is pushed to an extreme.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场 地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com)

Citywide Picks Arrow Factory This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an independently run alternative space in the hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young, experimental artists, Arrow only takes up about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As a backlash against artists being pushed outside the city limits, this space tries to reinstall art inside an urban setting so everyday experience and creativity remain intertwined. > Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号 (www.arrowfactory.org.cn)

CAFA Museum Attached to the northeast corner of the Central Academy of Fine Art, architect Arata Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to house the museum’s 13,000+ collection of modern to contemporary art. Opened in 2008, exhibitions range from Chinese Modern masterworks to current avant-garde experimental. > RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8 Huajiadi Nan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区花家地南街8号中央美术 学院美术馆 (6528 2022, www.cafamuseum.org)

Today Art Museum * As China’s first non-profit, non-governmental art museum, this institution embodies the country’s 20th-century leap to develop academic and progressive exhibitions.

Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and university prospects all get wall space here.

JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with over 18 years of experience in Beijing.

They provide a full range of surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their standard for service is focused on maintaining the best technologies in the field of cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful results safely. > Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn)

Alona Pilates Studio Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels. > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com)

Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls.

> Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Lily Nails A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and waxing services too.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号 东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)

Sport Yihe 42° Hot Yoga

> RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4, Pingod Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼今日美术馆 (5876 0600, www.todayartmuseum.com)

Independent cinemas Broadway Cinematheque MOMA * Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue boasts the largest screens for independent cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters with a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm cafebookstore, aptly named Kubrick.

> RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3, Building T4, The North Area, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongcheng District 东城区东直门香河园路1号当 代Moma北区T4座 (8438 8258 ext. 8008, www.bccinema.cn)

Instituto Cervantes Showing popular independent films from Latin American Directors monthly, the Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanishspeaking culture that also hosts public art exhibitions and lectures. They even have a video library!

> Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 (5879 9666, www.pekin.cervantes.es)

Bookstores The Bookworm * This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event space always has a cultured evening on its shelves for both adults and kids. > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)

Page One The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive collection of titles. > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com)

Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业 中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)

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3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to begin your journey into Yoga, so they are available to answer any questions you may have. It’s a great workout for the body and calming for the mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 9996, 8599 7395)

Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs.

>12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区 景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re

DENTAL Arrail Dental Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.

> 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南 角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关 村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公 寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all appointments.

> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙 科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)

SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 The full spectrum of dentistry. Services include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted.

> www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号 阳光广场东侧 .

Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.

Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北 京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**MonFri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中 海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488

HAIR SALONS Catherine de France

> www.heyrobics.com, info@heyrobics.com

California Fitness Beijing Club California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia. Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment. >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅

> 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Centre Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. (8535 1002, 131 4667 9913). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. 三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971)

SPA & MASSAGE Angel Hands Massage Center

Let us release your stress and make you smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off.

Our masseuses will know how to pamper you and attend to your every need. > Room 1801, Building 2, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO2号楼 1801 (138 1182 1008)

Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain of contemporary spas. Calming flower aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui fountains create a soothing atmosphere in each of their locations, while a long list of treatments from around the world cater to all pampering needs.

> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路 蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西 路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.yh42. com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA serve@cyclechina.com or cyclechina@hotmail.com)

Heyrobics “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs.

The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule.

The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon.

Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, RMB115-468 men.

> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)

Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a trained team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, including manicures, pedicures & waxing.

Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI.

> EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 E-mail: catherine@catherinedefrance.com Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. com

Laurent Falcon

Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat Created as a contemporary urban retreat, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方 广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝 阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎 桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)

HEALTH SERVICES Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality

listings inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. amcare.com.cn)

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken. > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric Clinic

> Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣 和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn)

Beijing Passion International Medical Center This full-service international clinic provides 24-hr general medical care and a patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion International Medical Center is equipped with the latest in medical technology and is designed to support the comfort, safety and privacy of patients.

> 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大 厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com

Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院

> Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net

6618. Email: vista@vista-china.net. Website: www. vista-china.net

OASIS International Hospital OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

EDUCATION MBA & EMBA Schools BBA at BFSU-SolBridge 北京外国语大学国际商学院

> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三 环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537)

LEMBA The Leadership EMBA from the University of Maryland Robert H. Smith School of Business is a unique learning experience in Beijing. The program offers world class executive and leadership education from some of the best professors the world has to offer. Every month one of the professors from the University of Maryland comes to Beijing to instruct the class for 4 consecutive days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime.

Email: beijing@rhsmith.umd.edu Tel: 8526 2528/29 Rutgers International Executive MBA

> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)

Mandarin Schools The Frontiers School

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院

> Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外 大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266.

Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国 门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部 饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天 竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义 区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102.

Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号 外交人 员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn

Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所

Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门 北大街2号 港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, 6553-2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www. hkclinic.com

International SOS Since 1989, International SOS has been run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments. Languages spoken include English, German, French, Mandarin, Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese.

> Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎 中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)

Parkway Health Clinic

> Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心 AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@ parkwayhealth.cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼 北京Link 101-201室

Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所

> 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 8529-

北京乐成国际学校 Located in Beijing’s Central Business District, Beijing City International School (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering and Inspiring through Challenge and Compassion.” This non-profit, independent co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and is authorized to teach all three IB programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Programme).

> 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)

The International Montessori School of Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully registered international Montessori school.

The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Mandarin/English program geared towards helping students achieve fluency in either language from an early age. Curriculum aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a high teacher-student ratio and impressive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 - RMB177,000/year.

> Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, http:>www.msb.edu.cn, admissions@msb.edu.cn

Beijing World Youth Academy 北京世青国际学校 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an international school for students of all nationalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs on its campuses conveniently located in Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School since 2001, BWYA values holistic education and seeks to give students ample opportunity to develop as globally-aware critical thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular activities are offered to further enrich student life. Graduates of BWYA have been accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB 100,000- 140,000/year.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市 朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 3478/0649, admissions@ibwya.net, www.ibwya.net)

The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 The British School of Beijing, established in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993246,057. Contact our Admissions team to arrange a school tour.

Join the friendly and professional team at Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin for 11 years. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. com.cn)

Beijing Mandarin Language School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language. More than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区 光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmandarinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)

Beijing Juncheng Language School 北京君诚语言学校 > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳 门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙 路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 (15321793321 Grettchin)

International Schools Beijing BISS International School 北京BISS国际学校 > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. com.cn)

Beijing City International School

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.org.cn)

Canadian International School of Beijing 北京加拿大国际学校 Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class facility offers an internationally recognized Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen of the world. > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马 桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)

Harrow International School Beijing 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Harrow International School Beijing prides itself on its high academic standards, a close-knit school community, a rich extracurricular activity program and the quality of its pastoral care provision. Leadership skills are promoted school-wide, with a range of enrichment activities to help students develop teamwork and creative thinking skills, as well as independence and responsibility. Students graduating from Harrow Beijing have won places at a range of universities across the world including Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge.

> Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 Email: enquiries@harrowbeijing.cn

International School of Beijing 北京顺义国际学校

> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺 义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)

Springboard International Bilingual School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their students to realize their full potential. They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football. > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn; 8049 2450)

Western Academy of Beijing 京西国际学校 The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is a creative and innovative IB World School built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to others, can-do spirit and commitment to excellence. WAB graduates are accepted into world-class colleges and universities across the globe. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588)

Yew Chung International School 耀中国际学校 > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 www.ycis-bj.com)

Kindergartens Beanstalk International Bilingual School 青苗国际双语学校 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环 北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南 十里居38号 (8456 6019)

House of Knowledge International Kindergarten (HOK) House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergarten program for children aged 10 months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as competent learners and the school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade 1 in September 2014. > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. hokschools.com)

EtonKids International Kindergarten 伊顿国际幼儿园 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交 汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝 阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈 泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门 外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星 园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天 北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内

Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园

> www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东 湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿 园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦 万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝 阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, warehouse4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王家码头路

3e International 北京3e国际学校 > 6437 3344

www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台 西路9-1号(四德公园旁)

SIBS Springboard International Blingual School 君城国际双语学院

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classifieds Accommodation Ascott Raffles City Beijing Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City.

Other nearby leisure attractions include Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district. > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 Ascott Raffles City Chengdu > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China Post code: 610041 Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888 Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 GDS Code: AZ Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing Somerset ZhongGuanCun is a luxury residence in Beijing that lets you enjoy the cultural depth and elegance of the city while living in the fast developing ZhongGuanCun area, only 15 minutes away from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian District Tel: 5873 0088 Lusongyuan Hotel A traditional compound of quadrangle composing of 5 courtyards which lies in the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous for its imperial living taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of nearly 170 years. The original owner of this large private house was the Grand General SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he carried out top official duties, such as defense minister. > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Address: No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com Lee Garden Service Apartments A newly renovated high-end premier living residence in a central location next to the shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Wangfujing, suites range from studios to 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) and are tastefully furnished with specially selected materials. > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区 王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, general.manager@lgapartment.com, www. lgapartment.com) FraserResidence CBD East Beijing Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free!

One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. com > Website: http:>beijing-east frasershospitality.com Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 FraserSuite CBD Beijing The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357

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Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 5908 6000 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas.

Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances etc..

Unique sky garden with golf practice field and barbecue area is another symbol of GTC Residence. > E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com website: www.gtcresidence.com Tel:56756666 Lanson Place Lanson Place Central Park Serviced Residences, located in the Central Business District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden.

The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped. > Website: www.lansonplace.com Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 Marriott Executive Apartments Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing area where the prestigious business, commercial, entertainment, and shopping center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng District Tel: 6564 9999 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District.

Tel: 8588 2888 Oakwood Residence Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100027, China reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES The Westin Executive Residences at The Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and

close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions. > Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial Tel: 6606 8866

Beauty Services Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun Branch Grand Opening Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s, to bring a continuous tanning effect 25% above standard machines with unique aquacool and aroma functions, we provide customers with the safest and most comfortable tanning space. > Open time:11:00-21:00 Sanlitun SOHO Branch Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun SOHO,Chaoyang District Tel: 57853711 Wangjing Branch Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Website: www.bjtanning.com Tel: 84722855 LA BELLEZA La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in Spanish. Professional hair-designers from Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.

LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, and finest products.

New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!

Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.

Website: www.labelleza.com.cn Tel: 010 8522 1626 MegaSun Tanning Salon As the only flagship store for this popular German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning will provide for each client the finest sun tanning experience.

Our center has prepared the newest functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy chamber systems, combined with easyCare optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our professional UV and tanning services. > 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO North Tower, Rm. 2302 Chaoyang District, Beijing Website: www.imegasun.com e-mail: 1019771453@qq.com Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂 Tel: 5900-2236/2238

BUSINESS CENTER Servcorp Smart businesses understand that flexibility is the future of the workplace. They choose the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow their businesses, run critical projects and give their people flexibility. > Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) Regus Serviced Office • FLEXIBLE OFFICE LEASES FROM 1 DAY TO 1 YEAR • QUICK AND EASY TO SET UP FOR 1-200 PEOPLE • PRICES FROM RMB 180 PER MONTH • FIND MORE ON REGUS.CN REGUS BEIJING (15 LOCATIONS) Regus Sun Dong An Plaza 雷格斯新东安广场 [NEW] 7/F, Tower 2, No. 138, Wangfujing Avenue,

Dongcheng District Regus Beijing Taikang Financial Tower 泰康金融大厦 [NEW] 23/F, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing China Life Tower 中国人寿大厦中心 5/F, No. 16, Chaoyangmenwai Ave., Chaoyang Distric Regus Beijing China World Tower 3 国贸三期 15/F, No.1 Jianguomenwai Avenue, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing Financial Street Excel Centre 金融街卓著中心 12/F, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District Regus Beijing IFC 财源国际中心 10/F IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai Avenue, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing Kerry Centre 嘉里中心 11/F, Beijing Kerry Centre North Tower, No.1Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing Lufthansa Center 燕莎中心 C203, No.50 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing NCI Centre新华保险大厦中心 15/F, No.12A Jianguomenwai Ave., Chaoyang District Regus Beijing Pacific Century Place 盈科中心 14/F, No.2A Workers Stadium Road North, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing Prosper Center 世纪财富中心 6/F Tower 2, No.5 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 中关村欧美汇大厦 7/F, No.2 Dongsan Street Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District Regus Beijing China Central Place 华贸中心 9/F Tower 2, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing Parkview Green 侨福芳草地中心 15/F Office Building A, No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District Regus Beijing China Life – West 中国人寿大厦-西 West, 5/F, No.16 Chao Wai Street, Chaoyang District CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and Pacific region, and our headquarters is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services.

Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, Taiyanggong, Beijing Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591 Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com Website: www.csochina.cn Tel: 86 10 64697000

Catering Services

classifieds Aurora Catering An 100% authentic Italian experience whether tasting a mouthful Lasagna or a juicy Carpaccio. Our international team brings to you the authentic freshness and tidbit of an Italian Espresso or a homemade tastiness of a Mozzarella.

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BORn-again fitness freaks Beijing’s HeyRunners Share Their Stories

by W i l l P h i l i p p s

Before I was a runner, I found it unbelievable that magazines dedicated to the sport could fill 80 or so pages each month with articles solely about running.

Buy some gear and put one foot in front of the other – what more is there to say?

But after I took up the sport and actually read those magazines, I realized the reason for buying them is as much for inspiration and motivation as it is practical advice. You read others’ success stories and think: why not me?

Many of the following runners only a started few years ago and now they’re traveling round China running 100km ultra-marathons. That might not be for you, of course, but they probably would have said that themselves two years ago. If your fitness routine needs a kick-start – whatever your goal – I hope the following Beijing-based HeyRunners’ words can provide the kick up the backside you need.

Diana Chas brian Cam

Running backstory: My father got me into when I was younger, but then I stopped around the time I went to university. In my late 20s I got back into running by joining a club when I was living in London. As you get older, you realize that you have a responsibility to keep your body feeling fit. I mean if you’re walking up stairs and you start to feel out of breath – that’s not a good thing.

Do you race?

Yes. I enjoy racing – it gives you an added sense of achievement and gives you a set goal. But is it always enjoyable? Not always… I got a cramp in my leg one marathon – it just totally blew up and I was in agony. I still finished the race – just an hour and a half slower than I would have liked. 10km is a nice distance…

Most important equipment: GPS watch – definitely number one. I would never have said that years ago but it’s become an obsession! I even do a spreadsheet of how much I run each week.

Is running a sport or a lifestyle?

Both. I run to compete, but it’s part of my lifestyle – you feel more awake, you feel fitter, you feel like you have more energy.

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Running backstory: I’ve been running on-and-off for a while, but decided to take it more seriously after moving to Beijing in 2012. Since running out of the door on a Sunday afternoon in August 2012, I’ve run two Beijing Marathons, one ultra-marathon (106 kilometers) and multiple half-marathons. Beijing has a lot to offer and even with the air, which is a real challenge, there can be opportunities for a healthy lifestyle.

Positive impact of running: It teaches three things. First, perseverance: to actually get up and get out of the door. (You don’t need a gym membership or anything though – it’s easy!) Second, the social side: through running I’ve got outside my bubble and learnt more about the city. Third, the routine: if you want to keep yourself fit, you need to do it over and over again.

Advice for first time runners: Don’t overthink it! Never wait until you have all the answers. Everyone asks, won’t it hurt my knees? If you just get out there and do it your body will adapt – if not it will tell you. The coaches are there to support you, whatever you want to get from it.

They’ll push you, but they understand that not everyone wants to run a marathon!

Running backstory: My running career had a false start in the 100m at school, I tripped over a hole in my lane and came last in race.

There were a couple of marathons in my 20s, but I didn’t train properly so I got injured. Then I got back into running in 2012 for a healthier lifestyle in Beijing and really enjoyed it. Through HeyRunning I started doing marathons several times a year – I was amazed at how quickly I improved. I must have done nine or ten long races last year.

Benefits of HeyRunning: Previously running was something I just did on my own through a park, which got rather monotonous. But being taught how to run intervals was the eureka moment in terms of getting oneself faster and keeping it interesting. I now feel I’m the fittest I’ve been in my life. It’s great to get out to the mountains to train; the spectacular scenery is a great way of forgetting about the occasional bad weather. And the HeyRunners are a great bunch – perfect company for a well-earned beer after training.

Is Beijing a good city to train in?

You can’t talk about running in Beijing without talking about pollution.

Of course, the funny thing is that it’s generally possible to run outdoors enough and still avoid the bad days.

Trouble is, you might get hooked on blue-sky days and want to move to Australia…

Running backstory: I started running in mid-2013.

So... almost two years. I first went to a barefoot running camp hosted by [HeyRunning Beijing founder] Linus – his coaching style and enthusiasm for running got me hooked.

Positive impact of running: It gives me an appetite – running makes me hungry! I suppose it makes me upbeat and positive, too.

You know about the ‘runner’s high’ (dopamine emitted during running)?

It can make you addicted to running!

Oh, and the happiest thing personally is meeting my boyfriend, Dragon, at a HeyRunning session. When running meets love – magic! So three things, I guess…

Is running a sport or a lifestyle?

Both, I think. When I do races, it’s a sport for me. When I jog during the week, it’s part of a lifestyle where I can keep fit and feel confident.

Toughest race you’ve done: The Dalian 50km ultra-trail race in 2014. I did this race only a year after I started road running, so it was a real challenge! [A standard marathon is 42km.] But I finished it (running really teaches you about perseverance).

I was 18 then, the youngest finisher in that race I think… even here in China! But there is an even tougher ultra trail running race, which I’d like to do in Indonesia. It’s 52km with a cumulative elevaton gain of 5800m gaining elevation within 22hrs. I hope my boyfriend and I can finish it within the 22-hour time limit!

That’s Beijing is proud media partner of HeyRunning. Join a session on Monday evenings, Wedesday evenings, Sunday mornings – or all three. It costs RMB30 for each individual session. Go online at www.heyrobics.com/heyrunning for membership pricing information. Follow HeyRunning on WeChat, username: HeyRunning. All levels welcome!

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