That's Tianjin - Spring 2015

TIANJIN

城市漫步北京英文版增刊

Spring 2015 Edition

ECO-CITY TIANJIN: CREATING A CLEANER FUTURE FITNESS REVOLUTION: HEALTHY BODY, HEALTHY MIND ISSN 1672-8025

China Intercontinental Press

CRAZY FRESH CHINESE: LANGUAGE LEARNING GOES TECH

国内统一刊号 CN 11-5232/GO

spring 2015

June 2013 // www.thatsmags.com

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that’s Beijing 《城市漫步》北京版 英文月刊

主管单位 ：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People’s Republic of China 主办单位 ：五洲传播出版社 地址 ：北京市海淀区北三环中路 31 号生产力大楼 B 座 7 层 邮编 100088 B-721 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Senior Editor Oscar Holland Tianjin Editor Philip Barkley Assistant Editor Vivid Zhu Designers Tin Wu, Xiaoran Li Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Erik Crouch, Andrew Chin, Karoline Kan, Will Philipps, Qiao Zhi, Jens Bakker

Urbanatomy Media

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EDITOR’s note SPRING 2015

The seasons in Tianjin are wonderfully predictable. Following another frigid winter, the switch has flicked and we find ourselves at the beginning of spring, ready to start afresh. We assume that, like us, your New Year’s resolutions (the Western and Chinese editions) have fallen by the wayside. But if ever there were a perfect time to detox, retox and reinvent, it would be spring. Nature’s been doing it for ages.

To help you along the way, we look at changing attitudes toward fitness and meet some of the gym owners helping to get Tianjin in shape (p8). If improving your language skills is on your to-do list, then the Community section should provide some inspiration. First up, we have an exclusive interview with, arguably, the most popular English teacher in China – online sensation Bai Jie (p40). And for those more interested in just getting by, we preview a new app that puts hapless waiguoren in touch with native Chinese-speakers for immediate assistance.

Amid all this self-improvement, the city is rejuvenating itself too. In addition to the latest slew of antismog measures, progress at Tianjin’s long-awaited Eco-City is well underway. In this issue’s cover story (p16) we examine the logic behind the project and the pitfalls it may face. If successful, our city could find itself at the forefront of a new model for urban planning.

Enough of the piety. One must have guilty pleasures, so in this month’s Food & Drink section (p28) we hunt down the best pizzas in town as well as some of those hidden local eateries that you may have missed. As ever, our up-to-date listings can be found throughout the magazine, helping you discover the city’s best restaurants, bars, clubs, activities and plenty more. Before you do, check the advice from Dr. Kyoto Morishita of International SOS (p12) who has some tips on how to plan your exploration around the pollution.

But AQI aside, get out there before the switch flicks again and it’s too warm to bother.

That’s Tianjin

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T H E BU Z Z

random Number

CROWNING GLORY

27% ... is the proportion of deaths caused by cancer in Tianjin annually.

The stark increase in both the percentage of cancer-related deaths and awareness of the disease is leading to (what we hope is) a change in local lifestyles (see page 8).

A young girl poses alongside a waxwork of the British Queen at Tianjin's Joy City Mall

Pollution

A Clean Break We can look forward to bluer skies and fresher air this spring, as back in March, the final and largest of Tianjin’s coal-fired power plants was shut down. The closure is part of a move toward gas power, which releases fewer greenhouse gases and generates greener energy. The timing should coincide with the windy spring months of April and May, which should make for a much clearer summer period... Time will tell.

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Fitness first

Mandatory Fitness Testing

In an attempt to improve fitness among the youth of China – otherwise notorious for diligence – the government introduce a scheme last year in universities whereby students would be unable to graduate without passing an annual fitness exam. This summer will see the first wave of graduations since the scheme was launched. The fitness exam differs marginally for male and female students, but ultimately entails a run of 800-1000m, mixed workouts, a lung capacity test and a flexibility test. Will local universities stick to the new laws? Or will some untraceable source of help ensure students graduate regardless of their blood pressure? We’re eager to find out.

Dancing shoes

In Pole Position Tianjin is not short on nightlife or night time entertainment. Many bars boast a colourful array of performances from burlesque to antigravity yoga. Pole dancing falls somewhere in between, though it doesn't have much of a presence on the Mainland. But this could all change this spring when as, for he first time in China’s long history, world-class pole dancers will hold a series of master classes in none other than traditional, quaint Tianjin. So get your dancing shoes on and chalk up!

silicon explosion

Robot Wars With over 30 specialist robot factories now under construction in China, the country now dominates the industrial robot market after years of being outshone by nearby Japan. In March, Tianjin hosted the 11th China International Equipment and Manufacturing Expo which is now the largest robot show in the country, covering a whopping 80,000sqm of floor space in the Meijiang Convention Center. Keep an eye out for it next year when it could become the world’s biggest.

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city LISTINGS Mandarin skills helpful .........M

HOUSEKEEPER SERVICES LBB Housekeeping Service Can’t cook, won’t cook? Relax: LBB has plenty of experience providing housekeeping and ayi services for both lazy and hardworking foreigners. > Room1102, Gate 3, 1 Builing, Jinguan Li, Fengfan International, Wang Ding Di, Nankai District, 南开区王顶堤金冠 里锋泛国际1号楼3门1102 (022 2368 0639; www.lbblife.com/htm/Project.asp)

BUSINESS SERVICES American Chamber of Commerce AmCham brings together US businesses and assists them in government advocacy, networking and professional events. // Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Room 2918, The Exchange Tower 2, 189 Nanjing Rd, Heping district 和平区南京路189号津 汇广场2座2918室 (022 2318 5071/2318 5074; www.amchamchina.org) European Union Chamber of Commerce Assists EU members with government liaison, networking and professional events. > Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Room 2415, Suite 17, Magnetic Plaza, Binshui Xi Lu, Nankai district 南开区宾水西道奥城商业广 场17座2415 室 (022 2374 1122; www. europeanchamber.com.cn)

COURIERS DHL M DHL has its own offices, as well as appearing in branches of China Post, and can be used for domestic and international, corporate and personal shipping. > Daily, 10.30am-9.30pm (www.cn.dhl.com/en/express; 400 810 8000). Alternatively, Fedex ( www.fedex. com; 800 988 1888)

DENTAL Aichi Dental ¥ The only Sino-foreign dental joint in TJ. Reassuring service. > Daily 9am-6pm. 4th Floor, Yunxiang Building, No.72-74 Xikang Road, Heping district, 和平区西康路72-74号云翔大 厦4楼 (022 8568 5616; www.aichidental. com) Zhen Hong Dental Clinic M A private clinic with a prominent reputation, spotless operation rooms and award-winning dentists. Reservations required. > 1st Floor, Henghua Building, 501, Da Gu

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Nan Road, Hexi district 河西区大沽南 路501号恒华大厦一楼 (022 5819 6263) Xin Aichi Dental Clinic M This 10-year-old clinic shouldn’t be confused with Aichi Dental, though it is equally as good. > 84 Taida Yuan, Yong An Road, Hexi district 河西区永安道泰达园底商84号 (022 2328 5556, 022 2328 0060)

DRIVERS Tianjin Car Service M Airport transfer and car-rental services with/without drivers, as well as English-speaking guides. > (755 2595 1800; www tianjincarservice. com, e-mail: bookings@tianjincarservice. com)

Electronics

International SOS The hospital has earnt its reputation with years of a great service. > inside Tianjin Sheraton Hotel, Zijinshan Lu, Hexi 河西区紫金山路 喜来登大酒 店 022-23520143 Tianjin First Central Hospital The largest hospital in town, with advanced equipment and professional service. > 24 Fukang Road, Nankai District, 南 开区复康路24号 (022 2362 6600, 022 2362 6048; www.tj-fch.com) Tianjin United Family Hospitals & Clinics ¥¥ One of few hospitals in town with English-speaking staff. > No.22, Tianxiao Yuan, Tanjiang Dao, Hexi district 河西区潭江道天潇园22 号 (022 5856 8500; Emergency only 022 5856 8555; www.tianjin.ufh.com.cn/en/)

HOME DECORATION

Buynow Mall 百脑汇 The best thing about this gargantuan electronics mall is that it probably has everything (cameras, computers, phone, games, hard drives etc.) – the bad news is that its size means it might take you an hour to find.

Be wary of fakes and get ready to haggle (in Mandarin). > 366 Anshanxi Dao, Nankai 南开区鞍 山西道366号 (022 5869 7666)

IKEA It’s boring, Swedish (yawn) and horribly crowded. But it’s also afforable and way nicer than the decorations your landlord favored. Go for the meatballs and sleeping Chinese, at least... > Daily, 10am-9pm. 433 Jintang Road, Dongli 塘沽区津塘公路18号 (400-8002345; www.ikea.com.cn.zh)

EMERGENCY SERVICES

INSURANCE

Should you encounter trouble, look for Tianjin police (jingcha)’s green uniform and caps. M > Police: Dial 110. Tianjin police Weibo @平安天津. Fire: Dial 119. General emergencies: 120.

GROCERIES ISETAN Supermarket The earliest non-Chinese supermarket to arrive in town provides imported groceries to TJ expats and foreign-food lovers; small and, of course, pricey. > Daily 10am-9pm. 108 Nanjing Road, B1, Isetan Shopping Mall Heping District. 和 平区南京路108号伊势丹商场地下一 层 (022-27221111) Joy City BLT (Better Life Together) Supermarket The biggest high-end supermarket in town, offering the widest range of imported products locally – so you can finally enjoy that “better life together” through the gift of, er, foreign groceries. > Daily 10am-10pm; 6 Nanmenwai Da Jie, B1, Joy City Shopping Centre, Nankai District. 南开区南门外大街6号大悦城 地下一层 (022 5810 0108)

HEALTH

Life Insurance Company Ltd M International and professional life-insurance company, whose mission statement is to pursue the philosophy “people-oriented, respect for life.” > Room 501, C Masson homes, Tanggu district塘沽区马森家园C座501室 (022 2530 7849; lifeinsurance@126.com)

INTERNET China Unicom M Probably the fastest local-access rates for the Chinterent, including high-speed fiber-optic networks (currently only available in new builds). > From RMB160 a month/4MBs; RMB190 fiber-optic; installation cost of RMB200 is extra. (www.eng.chinaunicom.com; 100 10 (press 9 for English)

VPNs Astrill/Witopia Recommended VPNs to skirt blockages by the Great Firewall and speed-up connections overseas, include Astrill and Witopia, which also allow the use of foreign-based subscriptions like Netflix and TV-streaming sites like BBC iPlayer, by relocating

servers to the desired country. > From RMB35/month, includes 24-hr customer service. (www.astrill.com; www.witopia.net)

LEGAL SERVICES Winners Law Firm M In trouble? Better call Saul – or these reassuring-sounding lot. > Room 406, Silk Building, 10 Nanjing Lu, Hexi District, 河西区南京路10号丝绸 大厦4层 (022 2313 3590)

LOCKSMITHS Golden Key Locksmith M Locked out? Bummer. Better call these guys.... > Hotline: 400 000 0220 (Tianjin Office: 022 2333 3333; www.locksmith.com.cn) Tianjin Every Day Unlock services Ltd M Does exactly what is says on the tin. Does it every day. as the name suggests. It's all rather straightforward. > 9 Yunnan Road, Heping District 和平区 云南路9号 (022 81111 1111)

REAL ESTATE China Relocation Find the property you want, with bilingual rental agreements. > (133-52017606; www.chinarelocation. com) Jones Lang LaSalle Jones Lang LaSalle help clients seeking to invest in the local property market, with specialized services including property management, office/retail leasing and sales, industrial, logistics and business park leasing, plus research, consulting and investment brokerage.

REMOVAL SERVICES AGS Four Winds International Movers Door-to-door service anywhere in the world, and assurances of top-quality service. > A1701 Vanke World Trade Plaza, 129 Nanjing Lu, Heping district (02227127759; www.agsfourwinds.com) Tianjin Minyuan Removal Service M > 5, Row 10, Qing You Dong Li, Jianwu Da Jie, Heping district,和平区建物大街 庆有东里10排5号 (www.chinawutong.com/co/co1; 022 2721 1549) Tianjin Tianyun Removal Service M > 1st Floor, Kaili Jiayuan, Changjiang

Road, Nankai District,南开区长江道 凯立家园底商 (022 8961 3222; www. xinyuanbj.com)

RELIGION Tianjin Christian Fellowship Only permitted to foreigners. > 22 Huan Hu Zhong Lu, Hexi 河西区环 湖中路22号(020 8829 7772; enquiry@ tjif.com) Islamic Association of Hebei M > Hai Men Lu and Xing Fu Dao 海门路和 幸福道交叉口 (020 2653 2981)

SATELLITE INSTALLATION AITE Satellite & Cable Television M Your best chance of escaping endless Japanese war dramas. > Ji Hua Building, 15 Jing Lu, Hedong district河东区十五经路与津塘路 交口吉华大厦 (131 0210 0668; 022 2412 7882)

SPORT & YOGA Yogi Lotus Yoga By a hill in Nan Cui Ping Park, Yogi has soothing surroundings.

> 265, Hongqi Nan Road, Nankai district 南开区红旗南路265号 (022 2813 2007) Magic Yoga A chain yoga studio; men’s and parent-child sessions available. > 3-1101, Heping Yuan, Fu An Da Jie (close to Parkson), Heping District, 和平区福 安大街和平园3门1101(近百盛购物中 心) (022 2731 1665, 022 6089 6203; www.gufanhome.com) Powerhouse Gym The most popular gym in town.

Good location (Line 1, Xiao Bai Lou station) and imported equipment. > (No pool) 5th Floor, Binjiang Shopping Center, 29 Kaifeng Dao, Heping district, 和平区开封道29号滨江购物中心5楼 (022 2319 2008) > (With pool) Monday-Saturday 7am10pm; Sunday 10am-10pm. Section C, Olympic Center,90 Weijin Nan Road, Nankai district,南开区卫津南路90号奥 林匹克中心C区 (022 2338 2008) Ai Ze En Fitness Club Yoga, spinning, kick boxing etc for all fitness enthusiasts. > Daily 9am-10pm. 4th Floor, Jinyao Square, 9 Nan Men Wai Da Jie, Nankai district, 南开区南门外大街9号金耀广 场4楼 (022 2734 4888) Heping Tennis Courts Indoor courts let you practice like a maniac all year round;

prices vary from hour to hour. > RMB70/hour, 8.30am-6pm; RMB110, 6-8pm and weekends. RMB90, 8-10pm.

Daily 8:30am-10pm. No.207 Xinhua Road, Heping district, 和平区新华路207号 (022 2313 9129) Tianjin Tennis Center ¥ Quality courts where the pros train – the price is a bit higher. > RMB100/ hour. Daily 8am-10pm. 9-2 Fukang Road, Nankai district, 南开区复 康路9号增2号 (022 2335 9964) Heping Squash Courts M Probably 99 percent of locals have no idea that squash exists, so these three courts are seldom occupied. Buy a 10-pass card for 300 kuai – well worth it! > RMB40/hour 8.30am-6pm; RMB60, 6-10pm and weekends. Daily 8:30am10pm, 2nd Floor, Heping Tennis Courts, No.207 Xinhua Road, Heping district, 和 平区新华路207号和平网球馆二楼 (022 2313 9129)

TRANSLATION SERVICES Tianjin Oceanlink Translation Co., Ltd > Rm 1216, Digital Time Square, Anshan Xi Lu, Nankai district,南开区鞍山西道 时代数码广场1216室 (022 2825 5806; www.yytrans.com)

VET AND PET SUPPLIES Changjiang Pet Hospital M > Daily 8am-5pm, Xiangyang Road(Close to Changjiang Road)Nankai District, 南开区向阳路近长江路 (022-27691809; 27610183) Pet Hospital M Veterinary service attached to Tianjin Agricultural University > No.22 Jin Jing Road, Xiqing Distric, 西青区津静公路22号 (022-23781292)

TOURIST SERVICES

VISA SERVICES

Tianjin Tourism Bureau M Get your local info fix here. > Daily, 8.30am-5.30pm. 18 Youyi Lu, Hexi district 河西区友谊路18号 (022-28359093)

Tianjin Foreign Service Corp M Let these guys untangle the Byzantine new visa laws for you. > Guangyin Building, Youyi Bei Road, Hexi district,河西区友谊北路广银大厦(022 2801 6007)

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LIFE & STYLE

Health in the Balance Tianjin's Fitness Revolution

BY P H i l i p b a r k l e y

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feature » LIFE & STYLE

With summer drawing ever nearer, more and more of us are concerned about our waistlines and beach bodies. Tianjin may be seen as a heavily polluted city with a reputation – even domestically – for salty food saturated with oil, but the city is jumping on the bandwagon (and off again, and on again) in an attempt to get fit.

A decade ago, life in Tianjin was much simpler due to the fact there was much less choice. If you wanted Italian, you went to the Italian district. If you wanted to work out, you went to Powerhouse.

If you wanted a decent massage, you had to look far and wide for a place that didn’t spring surprises on you at the end. But over the past 10 years, certainly since the 2008 Olympics, gyms have been popping up almost as standard in most new malls and luxury apartment blocks. Some are more sport-specific, like the K1 Mixed Martial Arts Gym, some are better suited to everyday white collar workers like AZE and others are fully fitted from top to toe with olympic pools, badminton courts and physical therapy centres such as LEO. But they all share something in common: a keen interest in a fitter Tianjin.

Mr Ma of AZE says that there is a growing awareness of fitness: “People in the city are becoming more and more health conscious. Two years ago people joined AZE to come and have a shower with their friends, now they come to train with their friends. It’s great to have witnessed this change. But I think it goes deeper than just socialising.

"I have a daughter and when many men become fathers they feel the need to offer further security to their larger family. Looking after my health will, by extension, look after my daughter as I will always be there for her and she won’t have the pressure of having to look after me later in life. We do it for the next generation, just as we would open a trust fund or invest in real estate. Life is just as, if not more important.”

It’s not just gyms. More and more ‘wellness centers’ are appearing – in all shapes and sizes – helping to clean up the sordid reputation of the phrase ‘Spa massage.’ Take, for example, ASK which started last summer and is taking the city by storm as a health and fitness consultation center with tailored weight loss programs; partnerships with numerous medical and homeopathic brands (who supply everything from herbal shampoos to detox teas); and all manner of traditional therapies. Intent on maintaining a healthy image and bringing natural fitness solutions to the masses, the young women behind the center – all dance teachers, nutritionists and sports SPRING 2015

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lovers – have found a delicate balance between alternative medicines, traditional therapies and sports, all of which can be experienced at one of the three ASK centres or the affiliated AZE gym.

Ms Cheng of ASK tells us that although the immediate threat of pollution has played a part in increasing awareness, much of it has come from social media. She argues that platforms like WeChat force the public to notice just how many people are suffering from ailments related to poor lifestyle choices and work stress.

Such scares can lead to more young people working out, then going for a massage and a cup of tea, whereas previously they might have spent SPRING 2015

their time and money going out to bars and drinking.

“It started with middleaged workers who found that as they grew older, their bodies could no longer handle the stress of Chinese work hours. Diseases like diabetes, high blood pressure and cancer all started to rise dramatically a few years ago and now more young people are being diagnosed.

I also think that the flood of Western movies and media has brought people around to the idea that ‘strong’ and ‘fat’; ‘thin’ and ‘slim’ have a very important difference that we have overlooked for too long. Getting in shape is the new fad. Having a good figure is the new social status,” says Cheng.

Universities are also joining in, having last year introduced a policy that prevents students graduating if they don’t first pass a health exam that includes running, sit ups, push ups, pull ups, stretching and several sport related-electives. This is in stark contrast to primary and secondary schools where the scheduled sports

class is often replaced with extra maths or English, something many parents are starting to speak up about.

One mother claims that since starting school, her daughter has become fatter and lazier, and that it can only be the school’s fault.

At home they eat healthily but she can’t control what the young girl is given for lunch and there is no time for regular exercise, due to the huge amount of homework she's set. “If the school insists on occupying my daughter’s time, both in and out of the classroom, then they should be fully responsible for how that affects her development at this important age.”

Moving toward healthier lifestyles will never be a seamless transition.

Nonetheless, it seems that the old ways of Tianjin are slowly being displaced by a younger generation and their hopes for fitter bodies and healthier lifestyles.

Don’t hold your breath for a sudden drop in car numbers or increase in green spaces anytime soon. But the city is

making positive steps in the right direction.

十年前，在天津没有 人去健身房健身，想 要找到舒适的SPA难 之又难，如今，天津 人的生活方式正在悄 然发生着改变，他们 更注重健康，越来越 多的人开始健身，塑 形，健康饮食，一切 都在迈向积极的方 向。

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LIFE & STYLE « advertorial

Inernational SOS Planning Around Pollution The reported rise in smog over the past decade is a talking point everywhere, from APEC to the local bus stop. But it’s not the only big change in the city.

As Dr. Kyoto Morishita tells us, more and more restaurants are banning smoking, as are large buildings and cafes. Sure, there has been a growth spurt in the foreign population of Tianjin, but health awareness is not a sudden change in one place, more an international trend. Half a century ago, China was struggling to provide enough food to the nation. An economic boom later and people don’t worry about surviving from day to day, but rather about thriving from generation to generation. Caring for your health is a very good place to start.

The flow of students and workers from outside of China has certainly helped stoked debate about healthier lifestyle choices, but it is very difficult to say when and how change will come. There are a

lot of health scares in the media: food, medicine, the environment – and it can cause hysteria among the general population, but it needn't have to. Dr. Morishita encourages people to learn how to make educated choices, using the information that is now so widely available to learn more about each health concern.

Although she believes that smog is on the decline, it remain an undeniable part of life for now. If you're planning days out over the summer months here's some of her top tips: - Expect bad days and prepare for them with indoor alternatives - Use apps and the Internet to follow the AQI, just like you would the weather, and make decisions based on this information - There is no one elixir to defeat pollution, but stay hydrated, don’t smoke and make sure you exercise - Have at least one big laugh a day (she says this is most important but wouldn’t go into technical medical details).

Welcome to InternatIonal SoS tIanjIn and teda ClInICS Our clinics in downtown Tianjin and TEDA provide quality medical services to International SOS members, including: • Family practice • Annual health checks • Vaccinations • Laboratory testing • Diagnostic services • Pharmacy 24 hour Assistance Centre: 400 818 0767 Tianjin International SOS Clinic Opening hours: Mon - Fri 9:00am – 6:00pm Sat. 9:00am – 1:00pm Clinic appointments: 2352 0143 1/F Apartment Building, Sheraton Tianjin Hotel Zi Jin Shan Road, He Xi District, Tianjin 300074 天津市河西区紫金山路 喜来登大酒店公寓楼一层，邮编 300074

Tianjin TEDA International SOS Clinic Opening hours: Mon - Fri 9:00am – 6:00pm Clinic appointments: 6537 7616 102-C2 MSD, 1st Avenue, TEDA Binhai Area, Tianjin 300457 天津经济技术开发区第一大街 泰达现代服务区C2座102室， 邮编 300457 Follow Us on WeChat

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www.clinicsinchina.com

life & style LISTINGS Pack a credit card.....................¥ Where’s my sugar daddy? ....¥¥ Mandarin skills helpful .........M

life & style

Shopping Ancient Culture Street M It’s not particularly ancient – everything here is a modernlooking reconstruction – and we’re not sure if endless shops selling the usual trinkets actually counts as culture, but Ancient Culture Street is certainly a bustling network of lanes and alleyways that’s perennially popular with tourists. > Daily, no entrance fee, Gongnan Main Street, Nankai 南开区宫南大街 Binjiang Dao Walking Street Downtown Tianjin’s busiest commercial avenue, with vendors, shops, malls, restaurants and cinemas, is swarming with dangerously nippy e-carts full of ‘sightseers’ (RMB3 a head). > Binjiang Dao, Heping 和平区滨江道 Friendship Plaza ¥ The place to go if you want to max-out your credit card on Louis Vuitton or Tiffany accoutrements. Cartier, Rolex, Chanel and more, all at twice the prices of Galeries Lafayette Paris. > Daily 10am-10pm, 21, Youyi Road, Hexi 河西区友谊路21号 (www.tffstore.com; 022 6086 0000) Galaxy Mall M This relative newcomer, along with Lotte next to it, has become a local destination, as it combines high-street brands with high-end, various restaurants, an All-Star skating rink, cinema and IMAX theatre on the fifth floor. > Daily 10am-10pm, 9 Leyuan Dao, Hexi 河西区乐园道9号 (www.galaxy-mall. com.cn; 022 8388 9668)

A&J focuses on style: ask for hairdresser Xiao Lei or Seven. > Daily 9am-9:30pm, 124, Xinhua Road, Heping 和平区新华路124号 (022 2711 7798) / 107 Guangdong Road, Hexi 河西 区广东路107号 (022 8381 8272) Dada Star M Tucked in a high-rise building, the studio is hard to locate but has enough of a reputation that reservations are recommended. // Daily 11am-10pm, 1-506, Building 1, Chengji Center, No.125, Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区南京路125号诚基中心 1号楼1门506 (022 2315 5218)

Regina If you think Tianjin doesn’t offer much in terms of indie and alternative fashion, think again. Tucked down a tranquil street a stone’s throw away from bustling Binjiang Dao, Regina is a little gem of pretty threads, original designs and some seriously covetable vintage gear that’ll have ladies looking for a little European flair swoon over the stock. > 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10pm, 3F Westin Hotel, 101 Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南 京路101号威斯汀酒店3楼 (022 2389 0088)

listings) and American pies (not the movie, or pizza; actual pies.) > Daily 10am-9pm, 108, Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区南京路108号 (www. isetan-tianjin.cn; 022 2722 1111) Joy City 大悦城 The most popular mall in town, Joy City is close to the subway and bus stops and offers free parking for your Audi. Zara, H&M, GAP, Uniqlo et al can be visited along with Starbucks or Honeymoon Dessert. > Daily 10am-10pm, 2-6 Nanmenwai Dajie, Nankai 南开区南门外大街2-6号 (www.tjjoycity.com; 022 5861 8888)

Heping Lu Golden Street M Adjoining Bingjiang Dao, Golden Street has Wanda, Parkson and Wal-Mart but the main lure seems to be the large bronze coin (Tong Qian) which people stand on, hoping for good luck. > Golden Street, Heping 和平区金街

La Vita M The newly renovated La Vita has one of the best locations in town and making it the shopping and dinning centre for white-collars, hotel guests and local hipsters. > Daily 10am-9pm, 189, Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区南京路189号 (www. theexchangetianjin.com; 022 2304 5555)

Hisense Plaza ¥¥ Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Cartier, Prada – you know the drill. Look out for those sad people toting empty paper bags with luxury brand names. > Daily 10am-10pm, 188, Jie Fang Bei Road, Heping 和平区解放北路188号 (www.hisense-plaza.com; 022 2319 8888)

Lotte Right above Line 2, this Koreanbased shopping mall is popular for its nightlife scene: live music, food court on B1, cinemas and KTV. > Daily 10am-10pm, 137, Dong Ma Lu, Nankai 南开区东马路137号 (www. china-lotteshopping.com; 022 5890 8888)

ISETAN An oldie but a goodie, the B1 and B2 floor have some unique eateries including an udon noodle house (see Restaurant

Milenio Originally ISETAN, Milenio has good feng shui; also, MUJI, Zara, Paul Frank (plus other not-sofamous brands) and the biggest Sephora outlet on its 1st floor.

> 209, Nanjing Lu (Jili Plaza), Heping 和平区南京路209号吉利大厦(022 271 16666) Parkson Like every other Parkson with discounted goods on the eighth floor; be wary of pickpockets. > Sun-Thu 9:30am-9:30pm, Fri-Sat 9:30am-10:30pm, 162, Heping Road, Heping 和平区和平路162号 (www. parkson.com.cn; 022 8558 6688)

BEAUTY OPI Nail Salon M Every girl loves OPI’s mani- and pedicures and there are tons of different colors to choose from. > Daily 10am-10pm, 3-30A, JoyCity, No.2 Nanmenwai Dajie, Nankai 南开区南门 外大街2号大城3楼30A (022 5810 0179) Sakura Nail Salon M The easygoing laoban niang encourages staff to be creative for unique pinkies every time. > Daily 10am-9pm, 101-2 Guidu Building, Yingkou Dao (at the intersection with Hebei Road), Heping 和平区营口道与 河北路交口贵都大厦底商101-2 (022 2711 7080, 138 0202 0708) Shang Pin Manicure M ¥ Good service and quality polish, so the cost can be quite high.

That’s the price of looking good! > Daily 10am-10pm, 1 Nanbei Dajie, 2-21B, Capita Malls 南北大街1号凯德 Mall 2楼21B (022 8826 8599)

HAIR

Kajia Zaoxing M ¥¥ Located in the very center of the CBD, prices here can be high. > Daily 10am-9pm, 2nd Floor, Building B, International Shopping Mall (Close to Xikai Cathedral) 211, Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区南京路211号国际商场 B座2楼(近西开教堂) (022 2783 1639) Li Zhi En Beauty Salon Korean-run hairdresser with friendly staff and great service. > Daily 9am-9pm, 97 Rose Eton Apartment Building, Er Wei Lu, Nankai 南开区二纬路伊顿玫瑰公寓底商97 号 (022 8735 9086)

SPA AND MASSAGE

Banyan Tree Spa Riverside ¥ ¥ Gloablly acclaimed luxury spa offering pampering and massage “experiences” of the very highest standards. > Daily 11am-10pm, 19, Changde Dao, Heping 和平区常德道19号(022 2330 9861, 151 2259 9861) Heavenly Spa by Westin ¥ The 90-minute Heavenly Spa Signature Massage, with heated compress and foot bath will leave you ready for anything – as will the Aquatic Synergy bath. > Daily 10am-midnight, 6th Floor, Westin Hotel, 101 Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区 南京路101号威斯汀酒店6楼 (022 2389 0088) I SPA ¥ Soothing scents, relaxing music, dim lighting – all that jazz. > Daily 2pm-11pm, 7th Floor, Tangla Hotel, 219 Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区 南京路219号唐拉雅秀酒店7楼 (022 2317 5263, 022 2317 5262) Thai Fe Miss that bone-cracking session in Thailand? Thai Fe is the best place to get one in Wudadao. > Daily 11am-10pm, 19, Changde Dao, Heping 和平区常德道19号 (022 2330 9861, 151 2259 9861) Zheng Sheng Yuan M The most popular Chinese foot rubs in town. > Daily 11:30am-1am, No.37-39, Youyi Bei Road, Hexi 河西区友谊北路37-39号 (022 8345 1166, 022 8345 1248)

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ARTs LISTINGS Mandarin skills helpful .........M Recommended .......................* Unmissable ...........................**

ART FAIR

CLASSICAL

Huangyaguan Great Wall * One of the Great Wall’s ultimate setbacks is that its popularity means it’s often swimming with tourists – somewhat detracting from the magic. The Huangya (‘Yellow Cliff’) Pass section, in the Tianjin municipality some 137km north-east of the city, is a good opportunity to see the wall, minus the crowds.

Some sections suffer from over-restoration, looking more Legoland than Qing Dynasty, but keep walking and you’ll discover beautiful views, snaking up through the green mountains.

Certain sections can be a tough climb, but there’s plenty of opportunity to buy drinks and fuel along the way. Getting there is an effort, though: either take a train to Jixian from Tianjin East Station, then taxi to ‘Huangya,’ or take a bus from Tianjin Hebei Coach Station to Jixian coach station, then a taxi. Drivers might not offer the meter, so bargain hard: aim for around RMB50-75. > Nov 1-Feb 28, RMB35; Mar 1-Oct 31 RMB40. Daily 8am-5pm, Huangyaguan, Xiaying Town, Ji County 蓟县下营镇黄 崖关村 (022 2271 8106)

Tianjin Grand Theatre * It's a pleasant surprise to learn that the Tianjin Grand Opera takes the art almost as seriously as Guangzhou, with 13 top productions in 2013, including Tosca, Eugene Onegin, Aida and The Ring (last December La Traviata was shown, first performed in Tianjin Cultural Palace of Workers in 1978). Yet it does, as well as hosting world-class orchestras like the Philadelphia, Royal Philharmonic and New York City Ballet. Keep an eye on posters at the Tianjin railway station to see what's being feted next. > RMB30-280 approx, daily 8:30am9:00pm, Tianjin Culture Centre, Yuexiu Lu, Hexi 河西区越秀路天津文化中心天 津 (Box office: 022 8388 2000/022 8388 2008; www.english.tjgtheatre.org) Western Shore Art Salon 西岸 艺术馆 M * Built to resemble a church of hodge-podge European origins, this all-round art temple is ideal for impressing a first date. Proximity to Tianjin University means no shortage of young culture vultures taking in weekly free lectures (Tue 3pm) while the decent acoustics make this place a haven for classical chamber music (performances every Sat and Sun starting at 8pm sharp).

If you need to stay awake during the string quartet, visit the cafe next door for a divine (yet pricey) cappuccino. > Sun, Tue-Thu (closed Mondays) 9:30am5pm, Fri/Sat 9:30am-9:30pm, 3 Youyi Lu, Hexi 河西区友谊北路3号 (022 23263505, 022 2326 3515)

HISTORICAL SITES Great Mosque 大清真寺 An important Islamic shrine since the Qing era, this famous mosque consists of four main structures – the Screen Wall, Archway, Preaching Hall and Prayer Hall – the latter being the most active and venerated spot (with over 1,000 worshippers a week), decorated with Arabic and Chinese couplets.

There’s also a pair of miniature Korans the size of a matchbox and carvings, featuring Tianjin ‘scenic spots,’ by well-known Hui artist Ma Shaoqing. It’s not really open to tourists (as it’s a place

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of prayer) but one can stroll the courtyard and get a close look, then try one of the many halal restaurants nearby. > Free, daily 6am-7pm, Dafeng Lu, opposite Xiaohuo Xiang Temple, Hongqiao 红桥区大丰路小伙巷对面 (022 8772 0540)

art beijing 2015

May1-3

Arguably the Mainland’s most prominent and influential art fair, Art Beijing returns to the capital with 160 galleries and exhibitors displaying their work across 25,000 square feet. With sections for both classical and contemporary art (as well as a ‘Design Beijing’ hall) many of the mainland’s most respected artists will be represented, alongside some of the country’s up-and-coming talents.

Last year, Art Beijing attracted 50,000 visitors; making it larger than many of its most renowned counterparts in the West (the godfather of art fairs, Art Basel in Switzerland, attracted only 10,000 more).

But it is also far more accessible than many of its Asian rivals. With plenty of low- and mid-range price tags, this isn’t just a playground for rich art dealers.

Art Beijing’s Director, Dong Mengyang tells That’s: “The biggest change over the past 10 years [of Art Beijing] is that lots of investors are moving out and instead, many individual customers are coming in. That is the right way for the art collection industry to thrive.

Investors were just trading the artworks for more money. Now, a group of people have emerged as real collectors.”

Be one of them. Aside from getting yourself over to Beijing, all you’ll need is RMB100 for a ticket. And even if you’re not in the market for something new to hang above the mantelpiece, the three-day event invariably offers a good chance to absorb a bit of culture and rub shoulders with the art world’s great and good.

> May 1-3 (VIP preview on April 30); RMB100; National Agriculture Exhibition Center, 16 East 3rd Ring Road North, Chaoyang / 5.1-3 (4.30预展专场,只面对VIP嘉宾和邀 请媒体) 公众开放日,单馆票50元,三馆通票价100元 朝阳区东三环北路16号 全 国农业展览馆 (www.artbeijing.net)

Jiefang Beilu 解放北路 At the far end of the old British concession is Jeifang Beilu, which runs to the majestic Astor Hotel and housed many European banks at the turn of the century. Don’t be fooled by the many ‘old-style’ modern constructs in the surrounding area; those on Jiefang Beilu are genuine, although doubtless have undergone much repair, and many now house domestic banks (so you can take a look inside). Look out for the black plaques on practically every colonial building, which will give you a forthright history. > Jiefang Bei Lu, Heping district 和平区 解放北路 Pu Yi Former Residence M One of the delights of Tianjin’s center is that you never know what freak of architectural nature might be hiding down any alley. Nowhere is this truer than with Jing Yuan Garden – better known as the last emperor Pu Yi’s house – from 1929 to-1931 – a spacious Spanish-style villa, which looks like it’s escaped a life on the Med and is now hiding down a particularly unexceptional second-tier street.

Inside contains a collection of Puyi’s possessions and, as the little plaque tells us, “the building is of great harmony as a whole.” > Daily, 70 Anshan Road, Heping District 和平区鞍山道70号 (022 2731 1618) Shi Family Residence 石家大院 * If you’ve found Ancient Culture Street or Italy Style Town a bit too ‘Disneyland’ for your liking (we don’t blame you) head to the Shi Family Mansion, in Yangliuqing Town, 15km west of the city. On offer here is a charming and well-presented house and gardens of a wealthy Qing family. It’s reachable by the No. 153 bus from Tianjin West Station, but you might find a taxi (about RMB70 each way) is more convenient. > Daily 9am-4:30pm, RMB20, 100m west of Yuhe Bridge, Yangliuqing Town, Xiqing 西青区杨柳青镇估衣街47号 (022 2739 1617) Temple of Deep Compassion * Head north-east out of the center over the Jingang bridge (looking out for the ‘Wanke Hotel’ along the way!) and you’ll come across one of Tianjin’s most important sacred sites, the Dabei Temple – or, to give it its most evocative name, the Temple of Deep Compassion. Dating back to the Ming Dynasty, it’s a predominantly Buddhist temple, still fully practicing and, although many building have been restored over the years, its main hall is perhaps the most striking imperial-era structure in the city. The size of the site, some 10,000sqm, means it doesn’t suffer from encroaching construction on all sides, in the same way as some inner-city shrines (Confucius Temple, we’re looking at you.) > Daily, RMB10, 9am-4.30pm, Tianwei Road, Hebei 河北区天纬路 (022 2626 1769)

LIVEHOUSES 13 Club M ** The granddaddy of Tianjin music venues and main port of call for serious talent, domestic and foreign, playing all genres.

But unless a touring band pops in mid-week, best check-in on weekends for an affordable peek at local talent (and aging rockers’ bald spots). Though the surrounding Italian Style Street winds down before midnight, one can stay for a cheap rooftop beer and killer river-view. > Daily 8:30pm-1am, 60 Ziyou Dao 3/F, Hebei (intersection of Ziyou Dao and Shengli Lu in Italian Style Town) 13俱乐 部, 河北区自由道与胜利路交口自 由道60号三楼 (130 1225 7305; email: china13club@gmail.com) NO.23 Music Bar Somewhat reminiscent of Hong Kong's Lang Kwai Fong, the newly-opened No.23 Music Bar

is awash with neon lights of almost every color imaginable.

Although passable as a bar, the subterranean space also doubles as a live music venue with cover bands and the odd international act. Should the screens behind the stage be used to display decent visuals rather than muted fashion TV, then the venue could contend with some of the city's better livehouses. Even if the music doesn't suit your tastes, the drinks are affordable (and reassuringly strong) and the service is attentive. > 8pm-late, 23 Chongqing Lu, Heping 和 平区重庆路23号 (022 8433 6666) Blue Map 小镇露台 M * Blue Map’s owner Wang Hui earned his pedigree running the legendary (now defunct) Riff Bar, so expect everything from local folk to metal played through solid stacks, tweaked by standup sound men. This is sure to rival 13 Club as Tianjin’s premier rock venue. > Daily 2pm-2am, Hubin Tiandi Shangjie, Bldg 1-1, Dongli (at the intersection of Donglihu Hanliaochengqingjing Dadao and Xi Dadao) 东丽区东丽湖万 科城情景大道与西大道交口的湖滨 天地商街壹栋01号 (138 2099 9403) Back Alley Bar 后巷酒吧 M Run by an alumnus of the Tianjin Music Conservatory, this hidden gem, filled with twisty staircases, flying beams, red lanterns and cozy corners, wins on atmosphere – even if there’s no band playing. When the small stage is occupied, expect a spectrum from jazz to rock, on an intimate stage built for music lovers. > Daily 8pm-2am, at the intersection of Xinkai Lu and Huajie Dao, in the little alley next to the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China (ICBC), Hedong 河东区新开路与华捷道交口 工商银 行侧门小巷内 (186 0227 9082) Lhasa 5238 拉萨5238酒吧 M * This newly opened lodge looks like it belongs at the base of Mount Everest – a vibe provided by a husband-wife team of white-collar Beijingersturned-rock climbers, who also opened a hostel of the same name in Tibet. Although a little overboard on the Tibetan trinkets, the two-floor clubhouse features a decent stage for hippie folk-rock; both shoes and talent optional. The breezy atmosphere and reasonable drinks attract a student clientele, who managers encourage to crash in the booths when it’s too late (and they're too drunk) to head back to campus. Two cheers for them! > Daily 3pm-12am, 6-10 Tongfang Huayuan Bldg, Heping 和平区同方花园 6-10号 (186 2226 4496) Listener Café 倾听者咖啡 M Tucked away in a dumpy residential compound, this cluttered clubhouse hosts weekly folk shows on a stage built for your grandma’s living room.

Grab a cheap coffee (RMB12) and not-so-fresh cheesecake (RMB12), plop on a couch with your favorite Wi-Fi widget and mellow out among earth tones, all to earthy tunes from amateur acousticians. If you need something stronger, stop by for the weekly all-you-can-drink samplers (a worrying RMB60) from the well-stocked bar. Most just wimp out and sip on an “Ice Male Intimate” mocktail. > Daily 11am-2am, Nanfufang Dajie (off Diantai Dao), Heping 和平区电台道南 浮房大街 (400 6090 706) Nine Songs 九歌 M For musicians, by musicians – this dingy boom room, named for the grungy sex-n-rock movie, is the haven of the college-rock scene. Expect student bands (disclaimer: varying quality), playing everything from anti-folk to hardcore, plus visits from leading figures in the local underground scene, with a well-equipped stage run by guys who take construction music seriously. > Daily 11am-11pm, Shangye Lou Bldg B, 3/F, Tianjin Normal University South Gate, Xiqing 西青区 师范大学南门商业楼B 座3楼 (158 2271 6562, 186 2263 5924)

MUSEUMS Astor Museum ** It’s hardly something you’d expect – a hotel museum that has probably one of the best private collections in north China – but with a host of historical documents, postcards, newspapers and photographs, a film exhibition (over 100 movies have used the hotel as a location), old possessions and artifacts, this is a full trip through the highs and lows that Tianjin and the Astor have witnessed, from 1937, when it was renamed the Asian Hotel by the occupying Japanese, to present-day visits from celebrities and politicians.

The entrance is by a (no longer functioning) Otis elevator – the first in the city in 1924. > 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台 儿庄路33号天津利顺德大饭店 (022 2331 1688; www.starwood hotels.com) China (Porcelain) House M ** Up there as one of the most weirdest and fascinating buildings you will ever visit, China House (or Yuebao — Porcelain – House) is a 3,000sqm-oddity decorated with (it’s said) 400 million ancient porcelain fragments, at least 16,000 pottery shards and 290 tons of natural crystal – a mosaic of madness or a habitable work of stunning art, depending on who you ask.

There are four enormous dragons, some 200 meters in length that surround the building like tentacles and even a Land Rover clad in 10,000 ceramic shards, that’s supposedly worth a million kuai. The house itself

is valued at over RMB2 billion, and filled with antique furniture (most of which is in a sorry state) but you can enjoy this unforgettable phenomenon for under RMB50. > Daily 9am-6pm, RMB35. 72 Chi Feng Road, Heping 和平区赤峰路72号 (022 2712 3366) Dagu Forts * Sixty kilometers south of Tianjin stand what’s left of the Dagu Forts, built in 1816 to protect Beijing – which, in 1860, they spectacularly failed to do (see ‘Jin vs Jing,’ p.17). Most of the emplacements were subsequently chai’ed by the capitalist imperialists, leaving only the 65-ft Wei and Hai Forts, some fake cannons and – a little later, of course – the Dagu Fort Ruins Museum (est. 1997) and Monument. You can also take a look at the Haimen Bridge, Dagu Beacon, and Chaoyin Temple nearby. As a symbol of propaganda against the West, the Dagu Forts are one of the “three treasures” of Tianjin. > RMB30, Daily 8am-5pm, (Take No.612/613 bus to Tanggu, transfer to No.110) 乘坐612/613路汽车到塘沽,换 乘110路汽车 The Tianjin Museum M * The Tianjin Museum, like many new things in China, is out to impress from the get-go. It’s in a colossal building shaped like a swan (the second-largest in China, with over 150,000 exhibits), in a vast plaza surrounded by equally imposing buildings. It’s the typical procedure here: ancient artifacts, followed by jade, porcelain and calligraphy, moving onto Tianjin’s recent history, a display room – sadly closed on our visit – which we imagine offers the most interesting stuff, given turn-of-the-20th-century Tianjin’s apparent displeasure at hosting nine concession areas. > Free, Tue-Sun 9am-4:30pm. Youyi Lu 31, Hexi 河西区友谊路31号 (022 5879 3000) MinYuan Terrace artistic – this once neglected, former British concession, has grown in recent years to become a vibrant cultural hub.

At the center of this revitalization is the Minyuan Terrace – a bustling arts space that houses a variety of independent eateries, galleries, cocktail bars and the award-winning Minyuan 33 boutique hotel. Not unlike Beijing’s hutongs, or Shanghai’s lanes, this winding cluster is connected by narrow passageways that lead into a series of bright open courtyards. Complimented by a ever rotating display of specially-commissioned outdoor exhibitions, and under the cover of large leafy English trees, Minyuen terrace is the perfect place to wile away a long summer afternoon. > 1 Changde Dao, Heping 和平区常德道 31号 (022 2330 0896, 022 2339 0525)

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COVER STORY

Tianjin has always been a hodge-podge – or hot pot – of international culture. An afternoon walk through the city center will show you just how much foreign architecture there is to brag about.

All the various concessions with their perks (and quirks) are part of what sets Tianjin apart from its bigger brother, Beijing. Throughout history, its location near the coast has placed Tianjin at China’s doorstep, making it one of the first cities that foreign merchants and explorers would visit, or at least pass through.

Although not renowned for being a cultural crossroads, Tianjin is exactly that. The opening of China was a long-winded process that got underway back in the 1800s, and two centuries was more than enough time for Tianjin to develop robust business relationships with other economic giants of the modern world. In the case of the Tianjin Eco-City that giant happens to be Singapore.

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COVER STORY

Tianjin Eco-City A New Model for Green Living

BY P H i l i p b a r k l e y

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In November 2007, China's then Premier Wen Jiabao and Singapore Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong officially launched the project with a ‘Groundbreaking Ceremony’ the following September, just after the Beijing Olympics.

The project site is located very close (a mere 10-minute subway ride away) to the New Economic Development Area. The Eco-City boasts a lot of new age technology and thus a lot of new age hype.

Over the next 10-15 years the mammoth 30sqkm project aims to become a model for sustainable cities, not just within China but across the world. The Tianjin-Singapore Forum has now become a large annual event and the EcoCity often takes center stage, with subtopics orientated around it.

Recent developments in alternative energy, waste water treatment and seawater desalination have all attracted designers’ attentions.

The various areas of the city have some rather pretentious names such as ‘Lifescape’ and ‘Solarscape’ to be used as administrative and civic districts. At the city's core will be ‘Urbanscape,’ which makes more use of vertical space with stacked constructs, while interconnected sky-bridges should allow safe and convenient commutes without the use of transport. The ‘Earthscape’ will contrast with the ‘Urbanscape,’ using a stepped design to maximise the amount of public green space. Last but not least, the ‘Windscape’ should help transform the rustic lakeside village of Qing Tuo Zi into a recreational area for citizens to relax or for other Tianjin residents to enjoy a day out. Between them, these five areas will provide homes for some 350,000 residents.

The initial design includes narrow roads and

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an inner-city light railway to discourage the use of private cars and promote greener public transport.

The buildings are low and heavily integrated with the immediate flora, grass and flower beds, which will fill many of the available spaces. Large open parks move away from the traditional Chinese gardens (often a work of landscaping art) and more toward the European concept of a large area in which you can do any number of outdoor activities.

With Singapore ranked as the fastest growing country by GDP, and Tianjin also recording substantial growth, acquiring the current investment of RMB6.8 billion Yuan has been somewhat straight forward. But has it, and will it, be used effectively?

In China, modern residential areas are often gated communities; nice, safe bubbles away from the hustle and bustle of the street. This is not necessarily a deliberate selling point. Whenever a large area of land goes under construction, or reconstruction, it is subdivided into blocks to enable more effective management. A good example is Aocheng in Tianjin's Nankai district.

This block was bought up by a private, well connected, developer who took charge of design.

Despite having expert input from both domestic and foreign architectural designers, most developers are focused on the business aspect of property development, building as high as they set their sights. Some even lower the ceilings at the last minute to fit more floors in, just to create more apartments to sell, fully aware that it may increase the risk of fire and structural instability.

It has already become apparent that some of the earliest plans, drawn up in 2008 by GES, have been warped or scrapped entirely. The basic idea works around an ‘eco-cell’ which in this plan was made up of five-floor buildings with no elevator

COVER STORY

• • • • • • •

Big hopes of the project include: Quality tap water: all tap water should be drinkable Green building standards: 100 percent of buildings should meet international green standards Affordable housing: 20 percent of housing shall be subsidised Renewable energy: should account for 15 percent of all energy sources by 2020 Non-traditional water sources: 50 percent of water should come from desalinated and recycled water by 2020 Quality ambient air: 310 days per annum should reach China’s National Ambient Air Grade II Carbon emission per unit GDP: The carbon emission per unit GDP should not exceed 150 tonne-C per US$1 million.

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to reduce piping and maintenance costs, energy use and building resources. The nearby trees would eventually grow to add to the green feeling.

The designers combined modes of transport to encourage use of buses and light rail, bicycles and walking. Over 3000 streets were to join the ecocells which would put no more than 400m between a citizen and all their basic needs. This all sounds very innovative and organic but it simply does not fit the Chinese style of urban planning: it lacks the feeling of a city centre.

So local designers opted for an older european design from the 1970s: A denser city centre with higher buildings, which will of course require elevators. The narrow roads have been dropped in favour of segregated roads and modes of transport, so residents can roar down the highway in their latest prize purchase, should the impulse take them. Getting around by foot shouldn’t be a problem – back in Europe, high walkways were built to connect the tall apartment blocks.

This style of housing has sometimes given rise to more petty crime but the link may not be causal.

The other problem with high-rise buildings (that applies to Tianjin especially) is the difficulty of

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constructing them near coasts. Builders can’t dig too far underground when so close to the sea as the foundations may be, as one architect told us, “questionable.”

Then there is the question of the initial carbon cost of the construction work. Just to prepare the land for development, a massive swamp had to be drained with a huge amount of earth dumped onto the area, all of which was transported by gasguzzling trucks.

The Eco-City is a project forged with the best of intentions, but many questions remain over just how successful it will be. It we be judged not only in terms of its environmental impact but, perhaps more crucially, its liveability.

新天津生态城是中国和新加坡两国政府的 战略合作项目，位于天津滨海新区，是以 新加坡等发达国家的新城镇为样板建设成 的一座可持续发展的城市型和谐社区。它 的设计初衷是否被贯彻实施了呢？巨大的 投入又是否会被有效利用吗？

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food & drink pizza Tianjin’s selection of pizzarias is fairly broad, but pizza that is worth writing home about is scant. So for your benefit we laid our health to rest for a week and ate our way through the Tianjin pizza scene, to find six restaurants that were not only worth writing home about, but worth writing a magazine article about.

mr. pizza Before you say anything, we are aware of Mr Pizza's reputation. But cast aside the carb-enriched potato pizza with sweet potato mash crust filling – only advised for frequent marathon runners – and you can find some hidden gems here. Admittedly the menu is mostly adapted for asian pallets and are somewhat adventurous in their ideas.

However, should you opt for the DIY pizza you are likely to be pleasantly surprised. #allyoucaneatsalad! > Wanda Plaza, Hedong 河东区万达广场 (近泰兴路)

TJ Mex Pizza my not be the food that springs to mind when talking about Mexican food. But a trip to TJ Mex may well change that for you. A well textured stone-baked crust, home-made sauce and cheese, all in perfect proportions, set the foundations for their selection of pizzas. The speciality mexican pizza packs a culinary punch. Even the margarita is sensational due to its combination of cheeses. #gratedcheeseontheside! > 60, North Zone, 3 Floor, Joy City, 2-6 Nanmenwai Dajie, Nankai 南开区南门外大街2-6号大悦城3楼北区60号 (15342036808)

prego Prego claims to the first true Italian restaurant in Tianjin and although some distance from the Italian Concession, it can compete with the best of them. By our reckoning, it is also home to the city’s only calzone, which embodies the myth that pizza is simply a giant unfolded jiaozi. The selection here uses fresh ingredients to create some of the most authentic pizzas in town. To top it off, Prego was awarded the ‘Best Family Dining’ award at our 2014 food and drink awards #freebreadasyouwait > 3 Floor, Westin Hotel, 101 Nanjing Lu, Heping和平区南京路101号威 斯汀酒店3楼 (022-23890088)

tino‘s Perhaps the newest pizza in town, Tino’s is a little different from is competitors in that it doesn’t try to offer pizza as a meal, but more as a snack.

A rather good idea, given that it is located within one of the largest shopping malls in the city. A leisurely stroll from one end of Riverside 66 to the other can work up an appetite for the ill-prepared shopper and Tino’s is a great place to sit down, grab a coffee and gorge on an old Italian favourite. #oreoandbananapizza! > 3007, 3 Floor, Hang Lung Plaza, 166 Xingan Lu, Heping和平区兴安路 166号恒隆广场3层3007 (59905521)

我们为您精心选择 了天津的六家披萨 店。先把健康饮食 放在一边休息一个 星期，跟随者我们 的介绍去品尝一下 这些美味到写进杂 志的披萨吧！

EAT & DRINK « feature

bianca Often heralded as THE pizza of Tianjin, Pizza Bianca does have a head start on the others in terms of reputation With creative toppings including a zesty tuna-and-olive and a delicious goats cheese, the pizzas certainly appear much more rustic and organic (particularly noticeable in the mushroom pizza). Although some say there is an excess of cheese on top, it varies from pizza to pizza. In any case, they're never greasy. #trythetiramisu! > Inside Minyuan Stadium, 83 Chongqing Dao, Heping 和平区重庆道 83号民园体育场院内 (83122728)

idea If you’re looking for a more traditional pizza, look no further than Idea. A local chef schooled in Italy for 11 years offers up a fabulous array of pizzas, with bases so thin you’ll question their existence. Toppings are paired with different sauces, making these pizzas slightly more gastronomically appealing than the competition. Due to the one-man kitchen staff you may be in for a wait of up to 40mins but, in our opinion, it’s more than worth it. #superbplaylist! > Building 2, Vanke City Garden, Xinxing Lu, Heping 和平区 新兴路万 科都市花园底商2楼(27837104 13820719283)

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EAT & DRINK « feature

chinese food Places to eat are a dime a dozen in this city. With the growth that Tianjin has experienced over the past decade, the international food offerings were never going to be far behind.

Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese, sports bars and various European-style bistros can all be found with relative ease in the city. But what about those who want to get a taste of Chinese food? We have gathered the intel and put together a selection of Tianjin’s hidden treasures.

zhou zi su For those of you with rusty spoken Chinese, this joint’s specialty is in the name – joints.

Although somewhat cramped, the warm welcome and bright interior allow for a pleasant experience all the same. It serves up crispy pork elbows, not dissimilar to ‘haxe’ of Munich. The menu also features a number of items you may not find in more mainstream Chinese restaurants. #trythefish! > 肘子酥: 63 Tiantai Lu, Hebei河北区天泰路63号 (26346019, 60638777)

bo ge da This is not a suitable venture for those who dislike waiting 10-15 minutes to be seated. Those with patience will be rewarded. This ever popular Xinjiang restaurant does some of our favorite eggplant in the city and its signature lamb and naan (nang boa rou) and chicken platter (da pan ji) is perfect for satisfying even seemingly bottomless stomachs. Its location near the Water Park makes Bo Ge Da a good spot to have dinner after a day splashing about. #substitutesundayroast > 博格达餐厅: 5 Building, Jiatai Garden Compound, Changshidao, Water Park Xilu, Nankai南开区 水上公园西路长实道嘉泰花园5号 楼 (23620152)

hao de This is a great place to start if you’re looking for an archetypal ‘Chinese restaurant.’ They have all the classics that one would expect and then some extras that you might not have tried before. They use only as much oil as they need and you’ll find that many of the dishes that usually taste similar at other restaurants, are really quite different here. It has no definitive style, but is a great choice for both small and large dinners, with any mix of guests. #yaoguojiding! > 好德饭店 : 17 Nanjing Lu, Hexi河西区 南京路17号图书大厦对 面 (23305708)

天津是名副其实的美食聚集地，各种 异国餐饮都极容易找到，如果您想在 天津尝试中国菜，又苦于无从下手， 来看看我们推荐给您的隐匿小馆吧。

tang Here’s something a little more innovative – a contemporary spin on ma la tang, a sort of pick ’n’ mix vegetable soup. This little dive - emphasis on 'little' – is tucked away near the Bai Nao Hui electronics warehouse. After boiling your selection of veggies, you get the choice of tomato soup or curry. And as most people know, a simple choice can make any experience much more palatable. #fusionfood! > 这儿烫麻辣烫: 16 Longjingli, Baidi Lu, Nankai 南开区白堤路龙井 里16号楼底商 (13622043477)

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Xiang Jiang Jiu Dian - Zui Xiang Xiao Chu A more traditional restaurant found within the maze of Wu Da Dao – or Five Great Boulevards – this little place is usually bustling around lunch and dinner time. Like Hao De, the food uses minimal oil for maximum flavour. The soups are wonderful and it’s a very comfortable environment any time of year. #allkindsoftofu > 最香小厨: 16 Guilin Lu, Heping和平区桂林路16号 (23392345)

bing di lian Here’s one for the veggies and those keen to experience a more traditional style of Chinese cuisine. This Buddhist restaurant, found close to Sitong Bar, serves no meat, although it does a very good imitation lamb, and aims to adhere to Daoist and Buddhist recipes. A good choice for those health conscious among you, Pin Di Lian offers more than just the usual white rice but also brown rice and whole wheat Chinese breads. The prices may be more expensive than you’d expect but, as possibly the quietest and most peaceful restaurant in the city, it makes for a pleasant change of scenery. #detoxfood! > 并蒂莲素食餐厅: B Building, 68 Changdedao, Wudadao, Heping和平 区五大道常德道68号B座 (23318629)

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foodLISTINGS Top Restaurants

food

About This guide represents our editors’ top picks, and includes some That’s Tianjin advertisers. All restaurants have been personally reviewed by our team of experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience, cleaniless and affordability.

Cholito (Spanish) ** ¥ The best Spanish restaurant in town also happens to be (pretty much) the only one – but Cholito doesn’t rest on its laurels. > Sun-Thurs, 11am-11pm; Fri-Sat 11am1am, Intersection of Luoyang Road and Hebei Road, No. 4, Xian Nong Da Yuan, Heping 和平区洛阳道与河北路交叉 路口 先农大院4号 (022 5835 2833)

Banyan Tree, Riverside Tianjin **¥ The Banyan Tree Riverside Tianjin’s Bai Yun Chinese fine dining restaurant offers expertly prepared Cantonese and Tianjininfluenced cuisine, like sautéed snow beef with garlic and spring onion and double-boiled black truffle with sea snail. Better still, it comes with a riverside view. > 34 Haihe East Road, Hebei 河北区海 河东路34号 (022 5861 9999)

Cafe Sambal (SE Asian) ** When it comes to Malay food in a hutong, nowhere does it better in China than Sambal.

Admittedly, that’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food. The spicy Kapitan-style chicken is pricey, but well worth it. An oxtail soup is rich and tasty, and there’s Tom Yum Gong if you prefer a little zing. > Daily 11.30am-midnight, 5 Minyuan Xi Li, 31 Changde Dao, Heping 和平区常德 道31号民园西里5号 (022 2330 0896, 022 2339 0525)

1863 Bistro & Terrace * ¥ Boasting authentic bygone-era menus and wines, 1863 relives the concession days with epicurean versions of classics like escargots, prawn cocktail (both RMB88), fish and chips and chicken pot-pie (both RMB188). > Daily 2-10pm (kitchen opens at 6pm, see O’Hara‘s in Bar Listings (022 2331 1688 ext.8918)

Duo Fu Lou (Tianjin) * M Famous for innovative but traditional Tianjin cuisine (RMB100300 a head), and non-traditional decorations, mixing a European style with Chinese furnishings.

We recommend the sai pangxie (‘Crab Lookalike’ – it’s actually made from fish and eggs), a signature dish. > Daily 10am-2pm, 4:30-9:30pm, No.1974 Chongqing Dao (at the crossing with Yunnan Lu), Heping 和平区重庆道197 号增4号(云南路口), (022 2311 2323, 022 2330 2323)

Bistro Theonet (British) * ¥ Part of the Qing Wang Fu complex, this British-style café serves gastropub fare beside an AstroTurf garden, complete with fountain. > Daily 10:30am-10:30pm, 55 Chongqing Road, Heping 和平区重庆道55号 庆王府院内 (022 5835 2555; www. qingwangfu.com) Brasserie Flo (French) ** ¥¥ Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB168), oysters (RMB58) and steak tartare (RMB188) confirm.

The grandeur is matched only by service, though how impressive you find it might depend on who’s paying (about RMB300500 per head, including wine).

VIP room available. > Daily 11am-3pm; 5.30-11pm, 37 Guangfu Lu, Italian Style Street, Hebei 河 北区意式风情街光复道37号近新意 街 (022 2662 6688; www.flo.cn/brasserie) Chateau 35 (French) Longstanding wine bar and bistro in the Wu Dao Dao area.

Well-known for their imported Australian steak and wood fired pizzas – the latter up there with the best in Beijing. Look out for wine tasting events and make use of their garden in summer months.

> Daily 10:30am-midnight, Opposite 79, ChangDe Dao, Heping 和平区常德道久 和里1号 (022 2331 5678)

tangla-sou ** Frequenting a hotel restaurant for a meal is becoming more and more popular as the size of Tianjin’s middle class increases. Many of the popular spots openly advertise their high-class dining areas on the lower floors, but Sou at TangLa has put a different angle on things. Found on their second from highest floor, the Sou bar and restaurant, provides not only quality food but a breathtaking view of the city by day or by night. The atmosphere is an undeniable delight, since even during the evening buffet it remains uncrowded, and the ambient noise remains at a warm murmur. The buffet itself is served from 18:00-21:00 every evening and its high point is seafood. Pacific octopus, sushi, and soups are all on the menu with Boston lobsters available for an extra RMB68. Aside from the succulently fresh seafood are the popular “rock n roll salads,” which avoid the buffet salad disaster of piling dry veg on your plate and crowning it with a dollop of dressing.

At Sou you choose your veg, then your dressing, then the chef shakes it up for you in a large jar before serving. The waiting staff are far friendlier than eleswhere, and manage it without being too familiar. There is a culturally diverse spread throughout the entire buffet, from starters to desserts, and all are prepared fresh and on site. The current special offer of buy two get one free (by one get one free for guests) renders this seafood spectacle high recommendable not only for quality but also for value.

RMB218 per person / Buy 2 get 1 free/ Lobster RMB68 > Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, Sat/Sun 11am-10pm, 18 Binshui Dao, Hexi 河西区宾水 道18号 (022 2813 8138)

Dublin Irish Pub (European) * ¥ This local pub boasts a former chef from Beijing’s Great Wall Hotel who has put together dishes from escargots and roasted oysters to New Zealand steak and shepherd’s pie. Perhaps the highlight, though, is the German menu, which features a smorgasbord of sausages and expertly cooked Pork Knuckle.

Despite the variety, the quality doesn’t suffer and the prices are as respectable as the fare. > See Bar Listings for details.

Geba Geba (Japanese) ¥ M The best way to enjoy Japanese cuisine is to watch the sushi chef prepare your food as you wait. Geba Geba guarantees that should you wish, and its cozy location adds to its allure. > Daily 11.30am-2pm; 5.30pm-11pm, 4 Minyuan Xi Li,31 Changde Dao, Heping 和平区常德道31号民园西里院内4号 (022 2339 6673) Goubuli 狗不理 (Tianjin) * ¥ M The classic san xian buns (RMB48/eight) are essential

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and you can ask a kuaibanr performer to tell you the history of the brand with a heavy Tianjin accent. It’s fun – if you understand what the hell he is talking about. > 77 Shandong Lu, Heping 和平区山东 路77号 (022 2730 2540) Guiyuan Canting (Tianjin) * M One of the earliest ‘Tianjin cuisine’ restaurants – meaning it’s all of 20-odd years old – but much cheaper than Goubuli at about RMB60-150 a head. The home-style atmosphere puts you in the mood for locally famous dish black garlic beef (RMB48).

Don’t like garlic or beef? There are plenty of other things, such as the eight treasure tofu (basically, tofu with seafood and meat, RMB48), braised eggplant (RMB33) and the refreshing mustard cucumber (RMB18). > 101-103 Cheng Du Dao (close to Gui Lin Lu), Heping 和平区成都道101-103号(近 桂林路) (022 2339 7530) Hongxing Canting (Traditional Hot-pot) * M You can have all three daily meals in this little restaurant, all for less than a hundred kuai.

In the morning, try authentic Tianjin lao doufu and guo ba cai. For lunch or dinner, go for old-fashioned Mongolian hotpot with hand-sliced mutton, (the burst stomach is also worth ordering if you literally have the guts.) Don’t forget beef-stuffed sesame cake, which goes with everything in the pot. > Daily 6am-2pm, 5pm-10pm, Xinxing Lu (crossroads of Siping Dong Dao), Heping 和平区新兴路与四平东道交口 (135 1226 8546) In & Out (Yunnan) M ¥ The cuisine ‘beneath the clouds’ uses mushrooms, cheese and flowers in a way no other region in China does. This restaurant – Zuo Yi Wang in Chinese – adopts a 100 percent approach, from the staff (mostly Yunnan minorities) to the decor. And, of course, the dishes – especially the roasted tilapia (RMB45) and boletes (RMB88, for luck). The famous hei san duo (sautéed, chopped pork, RMB98) goes perfectly with the famous pineapple rice (RMB38). > Daily 10:30am-9pm, 55 Luoyang Road, Xian Nong Square, Heping 和平区洛阳 道55号先农大院内 (022 5870 1999) Jinmen Yichuan (BBQ) * M The first choice for mutton chuan'r (Chinese shashlik) without worrying it might be rat. Have the ordinary ones (RMB4 per stick, twice what you’d pay on the street) or pay five times as much for its socalled “Extraordinary Chuanr,” though there may not be much of a difference. Don’t miss its “Extraordinary Lamb Chop” (RMB20 each) and lamb spine hot pot (RMB45). > Daily 11am-3am, 72 Qi Xiang Tai Lu, Hexi 河西区气象台路72号 (022

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2355 1111) Jincai Diancang (Tianjin) * M ¥ Innovative Tianjin cuisine for about RMB150-200; recommended dishes include their signature snack, youtiao (deepfried dough sticks) with shrimp.

The old-fashioned yogurt and traditional Tianjin sausages are what gets locals hot under the collar, come suppertime. > 22 Tianwei Lu (close to Bo Yuan Mall, Da Bei Temple Commercial Street), Hebei 河北区天纬路22号底商近大悲院商 业街博远商城 (022 2622 3333) Jinxin Hongmen Yangrou (Hot pot) * M Stewed lamb in spicy sauce is a Tianjin perennial, especially in winter. At this simple, somewhat scruffy restaurant, they have their own recipe, plus deep-fried shaobing (sesame seed cakes).

But lower your expectations for service – the waitresses are all ayi in their 50s. > Daily 10am-11pm, 205 Harbin Dao, Heping 和平区哈尔滨道205号 (022 2712 9380) Kiessling 起士林 (Western) ¥ * Kiessling is the oldest Westernrestaurant in Tianjin; every local speaks proudly of it. The four-story building offers a different flavor on every floor. The ground-level bakery is where it started – the original owner was a German baker. Second floor is mainly Russian, with a mustorder stewed beef in casserole (RMB68). German cuisine (as well as beer) is on the third, and French on the fourth. > 10am-9.30pm, 33 Zhe Jiang Lu , Heping 和平区浙江路33号 起士林饭店 (022 2331 9188, 022 2339 3533) Kitchen Igosso (Italian) * ¥ One of a half-dozen restaurants boosting the redevelopment of Xian Nong Square – similar to the famous Shanghai Xintiandi – Igosso serves authentic Italian, like arugula salad (RMB48; hard to find elsewhere), lasagna (RMB98), pizza (RMB60-98), and desserts like caramel brûlée (RMB40) and an innovative tiramisu (RMB48), which uses seasonal fruits as the base. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm, 55 Luoyang Road, Xian Nong Square, Heping 和平区洛阳道55号先农大院内 (022 5835 2860) La Casa Di Nao (Italian) ¥ M Low-profile, romantic Italian eatery, discreetly tucked into a converted terrace home in Wu Da Dao. The smartly turned-out Japanese owner, once head chef to the Italian Embassy in Tokyo, believes in good service – that’s why he owns another seven restaurants in Japan. Though the food might seem pricey – most antipasto range from RMB60-90 and the carne and pesce mains start around RB120 – the experience and authenticity, such as the Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza oven, are worth every fen. > Tue-Sun 11.30am-2pm; 5.30pm-9pm, 47

Changde Road, Heping 和平区常德道47 号 (022 5805 3255) Lao Feng Ge Pin Zhen Xuan (Shanghai) ¥ M This Shanghai chain, with seven down south, just opened its first in TJ. Occupying a corner in the British Concession, the restaurant fits right in the area’s vibe. In the three-story mansion, 10 dining rooms (each with bathroom) can handle 4 to 20 people. The food is carefully prepared and cooked: we recommend the longjing shrimps (RMB118). Service also gets the thumb-up: the staff makes you feel sincerely welcomed. > Daily 11am-1pm, 5-9pm, 9 Hunan Lu, Xian Nong Square, Heping 和平区湖南 路9号先农大院 (022 5835 2837; www. laofengge.com) Lao Yiren Canguan 老艺人餐馆, (Tianjin) * M Don’t let the wavy walls or slanted ceilings fool you – there’s nothing crooked about this funky little mom-and-pop standby, serving family-style food made by traditional musicians (the name translates as Old Artists Diner). The menu offers no surprises, just wholesome, local fare at reasonable prices (the shao san si, RMB21, tastes better than it looks). And expect a ‘family sized’ portion of culture, such as the owner’s granddaughter belting out a bit of Peking Opera as you dine. > 69 Duolun Road (at the intersection with Hebei Road), Heping 和平区多伦道 69号(河北路口), (022 2730 9406) Laya Burger (American) M In one of the city’s most popular malls, a Taiwanese-owned joint serves American burgers and onion rings, in an atmosphere that resembles Betsy Ross’s superego. If you expect an authentic American taste, you may be a bit disappointed. The beef is OK, but the sets just average.

Still, there is always a long line. > Daily 10am-9pm, 9 Leyuan Rd, Galaxy Shopping Mall, 5th Floor, Hexi 河西区乐 园道九号银河国际购物中心5楼 (022 8388 9366) Le Loft (French) * ¥ Innovative French cuisine designed to meet local people's taste, the restaurant functions also as a bar after dinner time, with free drinks for single ladies every Friday after 9:30pm. > Daily 11:30am-2:00am, 4 Jin Song Li (close to Jinzhou Road), Nanjing Road, Heping 和平区南京路劲松里4号 (近 锦州道), (022 2723 9363) Lüse Zhuang Yuan (Korean) M One of the oldest – and cheapest – Korean chains in the city (Green Manor in English). The owner adopts style as well as content: Once you sit down, 10 appetizers show up automatically, including kimchi and pumpkin porridge. These will probably leave you half-full before you’ve ordered (pro tip: you can refill

any two during the meal). Go for the grill or sizzling bibimbab – rice in a stone bowl. > Daily 10am-10pm, 108 Nanjing Road, Isetan 8th Floor, Heping 和平区南京 路108号伊势丹8楼 (营口道口), (022 2718 8513) Marugame Seimen (丸龟制面) (Japanese) M The udon noodles are simple food, but to make them tasty is no easy job. Thanks to Marugame Seimen, Tianjin now has a place to enjoy the slippery udon (RMB15-30) and tampura (RMB6-10). Usually crowded at lunch, the line outside moves pretty fast, because you order in line and pay at the other end, then grab a table to enjoy the noodles and rich-flavored soup. > Daily 10:30am-8:30pm, 108, Nanjing Road, B2, ISETAN Mall, Heping 和平区南 京路108号现代城C区伊势丹百货B2 楼 (022 2718 8503) MAXIM's DE PARIS** With a history that stretches back as far as the concessions of Tianjin, Maxim's de Paris is a French fine dining institution – a time-honored brand of joie de vivre and decadence. The indulgence comes in the form of oysters, seafood platters, bouillabaisse soup, terrines and foie gras – classic French haute cuisine that’s only available in a few select restaurants across China. Perhaps the most flamboyant choice on the menu is the chocolate dessert: a white chocolate orb which needs a coating of molten chocolate to melt it away, revealing a rich brownie inside. Top it all off with a bottle of vintage claret from the wine list. > 11am-2pm, 5pm-9:30pm, 2 Chengde Dao, Heping 和平区常德道2号 (022 2332 9966) Mighty Deli Much as we love sampling the many and varied epicurean delights that Asia has to offer, sometimes we just need a taste of home. Mighty Deli is one of the best stocked imported food stores in town, so for that particular bar of chocolate, spread for your bread or pasta sauce, this is probably the place to check out. > Daily, Opposite Nancuiping Park, 1F Longbin Yuan, 85-87 Water Park Road West, Nankai 南开区水上公园西路 85-87号龙滨园底商(翠屏公园对面) (022 8783 9683) Nanshi Food Street (Chinese) M Less a street, more a two-storey complex bursting with every local delicacy that Tianjin has to offer, this is a good place to come if you are feeling adventurous. There’s not much English signage, and don’t expect any vendors to speak it, so every bite is a bit of a lottery.

Most famous here is mahua (fried dough sticks sweetened with a red-bean paste filling),

chatang (a sugary millet-flour soup served from a huge copper pot) and the local hero: eggpancake jian bing. > Daily, times vary, Shenyi Lu, Heping 和 平区慎益大街和平区 Nha Trang (Vietnamese) M Vietnamese is growing more popular here thanks to familiar ingredients with an exotic twist.

Nha Trang offers a fast-food vibe with quality ingredients, for people on the go. Try cha gio (pork-and-shrimp spring rolls, RMB38) or grilled beef salad (RMB38). With a cup of Vietnamese milk tea (RMB18), you are good to ‘pho’ (sliced beef and brisket soup, RMB35). > Daily 12pm-4pm, 5:30pm-9:30pm, Shop 002-02, 5F, Galaxy Mall, No.9 Leyuan Rd, Hexi 河西区乐园道9号银河国际购物 中心5楼002-02铺 (022 8388 7666, 022 8388 7555; www.nhatrang.cn) Pattaya (Thai) * ¥ There is little of the seedy resort from which it takes its name at this Thai classic surrounded

by Western-style restaurants.

Dishes like Tom Yum Kung Soup (RMB58), Pad Thai (RMB38) and drinks like Teh Tarik (RMB18) all taste authentic. The curries, green and red, are popular while service is above average, especially when the waitresses greet you with a sweet “Sawadika.” > Daily 10am-10pm, 33 Shengli Lu, Italian Style Street, Hebei 河北区意式风情街 胜利路33号(022 2445 8789) Peng Tian Ge (Chinese) * M ¥ Upscale seafood restaurant providing a variety of typically Chinese delicacies, from bullfrog to Australian abalone and even esoteric rarities like scorpion. With its grand, Bondvillain decorations (small sharks swim in tanks, and you can even touch the sea turtle) and cozy atmosphere, it can be a great choice for family reunions and business dinners. Service is great too. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-9pm, 8 Hong Qi Nan Lu, Li Qi Zhuang, Hexi 河西区 李七庄红旗南路8号近快速路 (022 2395 8888) Pizza Bianca (Italian) * ¥ There is always a line outside come dinner time, and a good reason for the wait: the food is not only damn good, especially the pizza (RMB59-89), tiramisu (RMB39) and Mövenpick ice cream, it is fairly priced. Though the pizza may not taste as wonderful as one from a wood-fired oven, it is good enough. Due to the constant crowd, you need to be extra patient during rush hour. Brunch? > Daily 11am-10.30pm, Olympic Tower, 1F, 126, Chengdu Road, Heping 和平区 成都道126号盛捷奥林匹克大厦107108室 (022 2351 2887) Qing Wang Fu (South Chinese) * M ¥¥ Don’t miss Chef Deng Qun She’s

unique creations, expanding Guangdong cuisine to incorporate a ‘heavier’ sauce-based Tianjin style in dishes like ribs in orange sauce. For appetizers, try the sliced pig’s trotter (fen te), marinated in soy sauce, sugar and classic Shanxi wine (feng zhou); the duck soup is amazingly rich in taste. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10pm, see Bistro Theonet listings (022 5835 2555, 022 8713 5555) RIVIERA, The St. Regis Tianjin** While one could enjoy Riviera's contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in the surrounds of the art nouveau-inspired groundfloor bistro, we suggest that, weather permitting, you sit out on the terrace overlooking the river. Lamb with couscous and lime soy sauce (RMB138) is a fusion standout. > 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm; The St. Regis Tianjin, 158 Zhang Zizhong Lu, Heping 和平区张自忠路号 (022 5830 9962) SALSA PUBLIC HOUSE * * There is something Dali-esque about the oddball ornamentation and upside-down chairs hanging from a high, wood-panelled ceiling. The menu should hold something for most taste buds, including steaks (from RMB58), delicately balanced pan-fried lamb chops (RMB138) and the unique flavor combination of prawns and pineapple in a creamy wasabi "special" sauce (RMB98 and not for the faint-of-tongue). > Heping: 11am-2am; 36 Xikang Lu, Heping西康路36号(近岳阳道中国银 行旁) (022 8712 5158)

Nankai: 11am-2am; 7 Colorful Village 2nd Floor, Nankai奥城彩柒汇生活广 场2楼 (022 6077 8011) Sha Guo Li (Chinese) Tianjin residents flock to this local hero – even more so in the last six months so it’s opened a huge new chain in the luxurious Galaxy Mall. This family favorite restaurant, known for its dependable Tianjin staples, might seem a little out of place next to shops for imported French bags and Italian leather shoes – but credit to the owners where it’s due. Don't miss the signature pork belly (li jia da pai) > Galaxy Mall branch: 4F Galaxy Mall, 9 Leyuan Dao, Hexi 河西区乐园道9号银 河国际购物中心4楼 (022 8388 9139); Jiu Jian Lu branch: 46 Jiujiang Lu, Hexi 河 西区九江路46号 (2326 0075); Huafu Plaza branch: 1/F Huafu Plaza Zhujiang Dao, Hexi 河西区珠江道华夏津典底 商 (8838 8900) Shanghai Time (Chinese) M ¥ Still one of the most popular destinations despite its age, Shanghai Time serves classic dishes from stir-fried eel with hot oil (RMB56), grandma pork braised in brown sauce (RMB48) to crab powder balls (RMB19) and, of course, fried buns. The

decor recalls Old Shanghai with posters of beautiful 1930s actresses, and modern touches to ensure a delightful environment. > Daily 11am-10pm, No.20 Hubei Road, Heping 和平区湖北路20号 (022 2313 6667) Shaoshuai Fu (Chinese) * M ¥¥ In a busy downtown area, this Baroque building was home to the beloved General Zhang Xueliang and wife Zhao Si, so you can find yourself eating in his converted study. High as prices are, Shaoshuai’s individual serving system guarantees the best service. But do make a reservation because there are only four tables. A Chiang Kaishek lookalike often comes and talks about the history (which is kind of weird: it wasn’t even Chiang’s house, after all.) > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-9pm, 78 Chifeng Dao (at the crossing of Shandong Road), Heping 和平区赤峰道78号山东路口 (022 8789 6106) Someday (Cafe/Teahouse) M Bespectacled guimi (girly BFFs) and ‘cute’ couples kill time with British tea (RMB38) or cranberry mocha (RMB38) while waiting for waffles (plus ice cream, RMB48). Combos can be cheaper, and if you add them on WeChat, you get discounts.

The only downside is that it doesn’t serve proper meals. > Daily 10am-10pm, B1-111, Galaxy Underground Plaza, Hexi 河西区银河 地下商业广场B1-111 (022 8388 0888) Takara Sushi 宝寿司 (Japanese) * M ¥¥ This little restaurant only offers 10 seats (four at the saké bar), so you have the staff’s full attention, at least. The ingredients are carefully prepared to be the best, which is why the sushi and sashimi are pricey (usually RMB300 per person.) > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 11am-9pm, 55 Luoyang Road, Xian Nong Square, Heping 和平区洛阳道55号先农大院 内 (022 5835 2870) The Victoria Lounge at the Astor Hotel** For as little as RMB98 guests can indulge themselves with the hotel’s luxurious Afternoon Tea set. Beginning – as tradition dictates – at 2:00pm and ending at 5:00pm, the hotel’s high tea features a variety of delicious cakes, scones, jam, cream, strawberries, finger sandwiches and sweet fruits. The tea is excellent too, and come served in a steaming bone-china pot.

It’s all very Downton Abbey, and a great place to take visiting friends. > Daily 2-5pm, 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台儿庄路33号天津利 顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店1层 (020 2331 1688) Wei Ding Xuan (Chinese) * M ¥¥ Once the residence of the

fourth wife of Nationalist-period warlord Cao Kun, it is now one of the top-notch Chinese restaurants. Move over, Pepsi: the black rice juice (RMB180 per jar) is probably the best soft drink you’ll try – healthy and delicious.

Tasty eating plus history – what more can one ask? > 36 Chengxiang Zhong Lu, Gulou Bei Lu (west of the North Gate) ,Nankai 南开区 城厢中路鼓楼北街36号鼓楼北门西 侧 (022 2728 0123) Xi Hua Xuan (Chinese)** M ¥ The best place to sip the more infamous Chinese ‘herb wines’ – all kinds of them. Pay around RMB200 a head and let the chef serve whatever’s prepared – on our visit, this included roasted spicy fish and (unfortunately) shark’s fin soup, with different kinds of baijiu: seahorse and deer penis infusions being fairly typical, tasty varieties. The owner can also tell the story behind every object in the room. > Daily 4:30pm-10pm, 1 Cheng Xing Li, Si Ping Dong Dao (at the cross of Gan Su Lu), Heping 和平区四平东道成兴里1号与 甘肃路交口 (022 2730 7878) Xinjiang Fengwei Canting (Xinjiang) M This Xinjiang restaurant is run by the state-owned Xinjiang Production and Construction Corps, so authenticity is high, and service poor. Locals are willing to come just for its big plate chicken (braised with potato and peppers, RMB68), and hongliu Mutton chuan’r (RMB12 each).

Come early; there is always a line. > Daily 11am-2pm; 5pm-10pm, 1st Floor of Junken Hotel, No.21 Huaxing Dao (behind Tiajin Train Station), Hedong 河 东区华兴道21号军垦宾馆1楼近天津 站后广场 (022 2432 9998) Yihe Yayuan (Peking Duck) * M ¥ Qing surroundings beget an imperial style: the exquisite roast duck set (RMB198) is a must, as is the famous lion’s head meatball (RMB18), stone plate eggplant (RMB38), cheese tofu (RMB38) and the ever-popular kung pao chicken (RMB48). > Daily 11am-2pm, 5.10pm-9pm, L3-052 Galaxy Mall, 9 Leyuan Rd, Hexi河西区乐 园道9号银河国际购物中心3楼L3-052 号 (022 8388 7926, 020 8388 7928) YY Beer House 粤园 (Thai) * ¥ Don’t be fooled by the name – YY is less a house of beer (though it has many) as a brilliant restaurant. The chef insists on the freshest ingredients, which explains why this classic eatery, almost hidden among the skyscrapers, has been around all this time. Better make a reservation, especially at dinner, because this small diner is always crowded (both by customers and its decorations, of which quite a few are antiques). > Daily 11:30am-10pm, 3 Aomen (Macau) Lu, Heping 和平区澳门路3号洛阳道口 (022 2339 9634)

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bars & clubs LISTINGS Slightly pricey (RMB150-250pp).....................¥ Expense Account!

(RMB250+pp) ........................¥¥ Mandarin skills helpful .........M Recommended .......................* Unmissable ...........................**

The Top Bars and Clubs About This guide represents our editors’ top picks, and includes some That’s Tianjin advertisers. All bars have been personally reviewed by our team of expeWrts, and scored according to the drinks, experience and affordability.

1308 Drei Kronen Brauhaus Beside the River Hai is a cluster of copycat bars, of which Drei Kronen is an original. One of the world’s oldest heritage breweries, DK has been focusing on China, with branches now in Beijing and Shanghai. Apart from its dependable food, the beer is heavy but excellent – particularly the black. Offset the similarly heavy prices by taking advantage of their happy hour. > Daily 11am-midnight, 1F, BLK 5, Jinwan Plaza, Jiefang Bei Lu, Heping 和平区解 放北路48号津湾广场5号楼D座1-2楼 (022 2321 9199) 1362 义聚永 Jazz tunes waft ovef relaxed conversation and clinking beer glasses at this friendly downtown bar. An ideal place to break up your day and watch the crowds go by with an RMB40 can of German beer, 1362 pays tribute to a local 14th-century brewery that moved out of the city, leaving the building to be remodeled as a stylish watering hole. Live music and dice games available. > Daily 11am-2am, 31, Kaifeng Dao (European Style Street, Xiaobai Lou), Heping 和平区开封道小白楼欧式风 情街31号 Alibaba ¥ * With a decade of history making this is one of the oldest bars in town. Alibaba’s salad days are probably behind it but you can always come here for an RMB35 Long Island Ice Tea after midnight and perhaps play some foosball. Food is always available and diverse, because it used to be crowded with foreign students from the neighborhood. No live bands, but it can get noisy when all the tables are occupied – when it’s not, though, be sure to poke around the eclectic décor, which includes a full mock-up of the famous 10 Downing Street facade in London. > Daily 11am-2pm, Weihua Li, Tong An Rd (close to Wujiayao 4 Rd), Hexi 河西区同

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安道卫华里小区内(近吴家窑四号路) (022 2351 3976) The Bar Kei 桂酒吧 M ¥ * Although most of the time, ‘K Bar’ (as it’s generally known) is a quiet basement bar, at weekends and special occasions, it turns into Tianjin’s cutting-edge underground bar specializing in blips, breakz and beats.

Importing acts such as Pancake Lee and Eddie Lv from Beijing clubs like Haze and Lantern, Bar Kei attracts hip (or hip-acting) clubbers, who throw shapes like they really care, despite the apparent lack of disco fuel. The drinks include odd cocktails like Korean margaritas. > Sun-Thu 8pm-1am, Fri/Sat 8pm-3am, B1 International Building, 75 Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南京路75号国际 大厦B1楼 Bavaria Beer Keller M ¥ Italian Style Street is, if anything, dominated more by German and French establishments like Paulaner. The vast BBK, boasting two beer gardens, is probably the largest land-grab by the German contingent, and a seriously mixed bag. Sure, the beers (from RMB55) are quality and the Radlers – especially the schwarzbier mit cola (black beer with Coke; RMB48) – fun but for that price? Couple with too-loud music from the cheesy house band and some seriously drunk men enjoying the Paulaner one-meter-board selection of 10 draught beers (from RMB288) at weekends, and you have an unsophisticated drinking experience that’s popular with locals. > Daily 10am-2am, Italian Style Street, Ziyoudao 4, Hebei district (022 2445 6112) Bed Bar** Once one of the best hutong hangout spots in Beijing, the relocated Bed Bar brings with it all the laid-back, intimate charm of the original, as well as countless That's Beijing awards of years gone by. The capital's loss is Tianjin's gain. With upstairs areas featuring (as the name might suggest) beds to recline on and an outside courtyard in the picturesque Minyuan Terrace complex, there are few better places in the city to enjoy a cocktail. > Mon–Thu 3pm–11pm, Fri 3pm-1am, Sat 12pm-1am, Sun 11am-10pm; Changde Dao, Gui Lin Lu, No.5 Minyuan Xili, Heping 和平区常德道桂林路交叉口 民园西里内 (022 2330 0896) Bedroom Bar M The owners cheerfully admit that they stole their concept off our fair sister-city’s classic Bed Bar (see p41). In fairness, they have given the idea of ‘beds’ in

a bar a twist: it now feels like you’re right in the middle of a Clockwork Orange, rather than a courtyard haunt (though you’ll still find the hipsters). White walls, neon strip-lights, homemade shisha pipes from Absolut bottles (they have 29 flavors) and drinks you inhale mean this is a spot worth checking out: we drank a RMB28 shot called Drug that felt like it was invented by a fuerdai; it probably was. All in all, an ephemeral pleasure. > Daily 12pm-2am, Commercial Site, No. 1-4, Chaoyang Li, Heyan Dao, Heping district 和平区河沿道朝阳里1-4号底 商 (135 1226 1277) Blauer Engel (Blue Angel) ¥ * Judging from its name – derived from the first German ‘talkie,’ which also claims to be the first foreign film ever screened in China – Blauer Engel should mainly serve beer. However, the bartender is also passionate about cocktails – he can do much more than just the items on the scroll menus. So remember to tell him your preference, and he will cook something special up just for you. Plus, the two-man band here is pretty decent; the girl in particular has a fantastic voice. Weather permitting, you can sit outside and enjoy the beautiful yard of Hotel Indigo, to which this bar belongs. > 5pm-1am, 314 Jiefang South Rd, Hexi district河西区解放南路314号 (022 8832 7698) Blowing in the Wind * This little bar is famous for its Mexican-style vibe – meaning its food and colorful Latino drinks, rather than any gang warfare or drug problems. The owner is fairly accomplished at mixology himself, so he has a very high standard of cocktails. Order a classic Mojito (RMB50), or venture into one a “Pink Trap” (RMB60) – again, not a honeypot who will leave you in a bath of ice with a kidney missing, but a lady cocktail – or something with an equally intriguing name like the “AMF”(Adiós Motherf***er, RMB60) or just enjoy the “Illusion”(RMB60), then soak it up with some nachos or taco beef. Just have a good time, gringo and make it back over the border... > Daily 6pm-midnight, Wujiayao Er Lu, Heping 和平区吴家窑二号路(近蛇口 道), (022 2351 4989) China Bleu ¥ With an enviable reputation as having one of the best views in town – a commanding, 360-degree view from the 50th floor across the city that comes alive at night, a 58 kuai Long Island doesn't seem so much. Signa-

ture drinks like the China Bleu (RMB48), Tianjin Night (RMB68) and Tianjin Sling (RMB68) are all popular, as is the live jazz band (the female singer sounds like Norah Jones.) > Daily 6.30pm-2am, 50th Floor, Tangla Hotel, 219 Nanjing Rd, Heping 南京路 219号唐拉雅秀酒店49楼 (022 2321 5888, 022 2317 5293) Dublin Irish Pub * ¥ The popular TEDA watering hole now has a large branch downtown, and we’re going to go out on a limb and say it’s probably the best pub in town (though you could argue it’s the only one in town). The well-stocked Irish bar including ice-cold Guinness, Kilkenny and Jagermeister on tap. > Downtown branch: Daily 10am-1am, 62, Jiefang Bei Lu, Heping 和平区解放北 路62号 (022 2330 7233); Binhai branch: 137 Cui Heng Square at crossroads of No.3 Street and Xin Cheng Xi Lu, Third Avenue, TEDA 开发区第三大街137号 (020 6629 2963) Exchange * One of Tianjin's buzziest bars, thanks to its open-floor location in the middle of the Westin's impressively appointed lobby, Exchange is a meeting place to see and be seen. Don’t miss the hotel’s Happy Hour (6-9pm), where a mere RMB88 will get you free-flow selected cocktails, wine and beer. There’s also a decent array of bar snack-type nibbles on the menu while you people watch. > Daily, 9am-10pm, The Westin, 101 Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南京路101 号 (022 2389 0168) Flair, The Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin** You’ve got to pretty confident to call yourself Flair, because it’s a name that suggests you’ve got something worth showing off. We expect impeccably turned out mixologists, theatrics with the cocktails shakers and drinks that are worth writing home about. Luckily this bar is located at the Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin where standards are lofty and self-assured names are justified. The bare brick walls and exposed metal bars are intricate and delicate, which is just how head barman Paul likes his signature cocktails, such as a Chocolate Martini and a China Rose Martini. The Long Beach Ice Tea, which contains vodka, rum, gin and tequila can hardly be described as delicate but it the punch it packs is well worth it.

Order pan-Asian snacks if you’re after some kitchen-based flair. > Fri/Sat 5pm-1am, Sun-Thu 5pm-12am, The Ritz-Carlton, Tianjin, No. 167 Dagubei Road, Heping 和平区大沽北路167号 (022 5857 8888)

Hank’s Bar & Grill This ten-year-old institution has recently benefited from a longoverdue move to a new and improved location. The place has a fiercely loyal following among middle-aged expats craving their ‘Murica fix and its raucous Fourth of July/ SuperBowl/“We Sure Killed Bin Laden” parties are Tianjin institutions. > Daily 11am-11pm, Room 333, Building 6 Wanke Jin Ao International Square, Zhong Shi You Bridge, Wei Jin Nan Lu, Hexi 河西区卫津南路中石油桥下 万科金奥国际广场商业6号楼333室 (022 5966; theupperdecktj@yahoo.com) Helen’s Cafe 海伦咖啡 * Like Kenny G and construction rubble, Helen’s is everywhere in China. Beijing, Chengdu, Shanghai, Wuhan, Xiamen and, yep, Tianjin, which ‘boasts’ two.

You know the drill: RMB8 draft Tsingtao, backpackers’ graffiti, cheap drinks, RMB38 buckets of fake alcohol, shisha pipes, half-decent food; go for the pizza – but don’t, you know, go for the pizza. The crowd is 80 percent local, with a smattering of foreign students (there are three local universities) and the atmosphere convivial. A good place to pre-game but remember: those drink are cheap for a reason and if you get there late, be willing to share a big table with infinite possibilities. > Daily, 10pm-3am, He Yan Dao 116, (by Qixiangtai Lu and just over the Wu Jia Yao Number Two Bridge) Heping 和平 区河沿道116号吴家窑2号桥旁 (022 2334 0071) Indie Bar Run by a cool young couple who you’ll probably meet at the bar, Indie – as the name would suggest – is a chilled place to hang out and listen to some local budding musicians (many from nearby universities.) Big gin and juice or vodka coke at RMB15 for weekend Happy Hours and RMB10 Tsingtaos all day Sunday mean the prices are well within the busking musician’s price range. > Daily (closed Thursdays) 6pm-late, 1 Yichang Nanli, Yichang Dao & Xiangtai Lu, Heping 和平区 宜昌道宜昌南里底 商 (139 2030 1982) Lancelot M A rock heritage – the landlord is a synthesizer whizz whose mother owns a livehouse – means Lancelot teeters on the edge of being a livehouse but given that it is generally quite dead most nights, we didn’t spend too much time agonizing which. The lack of any draught beer would normally kill it off completely, but Lancelot is partly saved by some kick-ass professional pool tables out back (RMB20; RMB48 after 8pm), used for local tournaments. Music doesn’t start until after 10pm. > Daily 7am-Midnight, No.228 Xinhua

Road, Heping 和平区新华路228号 (022 2339 9557) Le Loft ¥ * Once the diners have gone home, it’s all-night cocktail hour at this chic French venue, where you’re likely to find some of the city’s sexiest people working through the wine list. > See Restaurant Listings for details Le Procope** A candlelit interior and sleek, industrial-like décor set the mood at Le Procope, perhaps Tianjin’s most popular – and certainly most creative - cocktail lounge. The stylish parlor serves up a solid list of predefined and bespoke libations. While some of the drinks are exhilarating for their presentation some, like an excellent Old Fashioned, are remarkable for their flavor.

Prices for cocktails are around RMB50, while beers are around RMB30. Whisky aficionados will be impressed by their scotch selection. > Daily 7.30pm-late, Chengde Lu (at the intersection with Shandong Lu), Heping 和平区承德道与山东路交口 (022 2711 9858) MUSE* Picture the scene: it’s a cavernous basement club, similar in many ways to Elements in Gongti, Beijing. The club is packed with people looking like they aren’t enjoying themselves: there’s a ton of phone fiddlers, and some long-legged woman looking bored at the idea of life itself. But here’s a group of spiky-haired young men with two bottles of expensive foreign liquor open in front of them and apparently no idea what to do next. Get the picture? It’s bizarre but it’s engrossing. > Daily 7.30pm-late, at the intersection with Xi’an Dao and Liuzhou Lu, Heping, 和平区西安道与柳州路交口 (150 2219 9444) O’Hara’s English Pub ¥ ** At the back of the Astor Hotel, where the former lobby once greeted colonial guests, you will find a most clubbable English gentleman’s lounge, complete with regal Winchester-style sofas, an extensive single-malt whisky bar (regulars can keep bottles) and spot-on live music.

Even by mid-week, this place starts getting lively after 9pm with locals who thrill to the old English atmosphere and expert bartending (try their cocktail creations). > Daily 5pm-1am, 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台儿庄路33号天津利 顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店1层 (020 2331 1688) Paulaner Richmond ¥ Usually quiet before dinner but afterwards, the place comes alive with house bands playing varying genres, while Paulaner’s

food (sausage plates, pork knuckles and other Bavarian delights) and beer, brewed on site, is known to be a safe bet round these parts. > Daily, No.243 Xinhua Lu (close to Chongqing Dao) Heping 和平区 新华路 243号(近重庆道), (022 2330 6866) QBa, The Westin Tianjin** Located on the second floor of the Westin, QBa sees the rough brilliance of Havana and Trinidad transplanted onto Tianjin. Heavy on Latin-inspired ornaments and decor – think pre-Castro nostalgic Cuba – and we’ll give you one guess what drink we were recommend.

Yes, it’s a Mojito (although the Caipirinha is not bad either) and it’s served in a setting that oozes hotel chic without feeling stifling or pretentious. The fact that you can play Nintendo Wii on a gigantic screen is also a major draw to the place – we got into a game of bowling that lasted for almost two hours and a good few rounds of drinks – and so is the quick service and more than decent bar food. > Daily 6pm-1am, No.101 Nanjing Lu, Westin Hotel, 2/F, Heping district和平 区南京路101号威斯汀酒店二楼 (022 2389 0088) Second Floor M ¥ Once a noisy nightclub (Scarlet), the renamed Second Floor restaurant-bar is now a more laidback place. The (Englishspeaking) head bartender, Kevin, learnt his craft from Beijing’s whisky-bar legends and his passion and creativity have infected the whole staff. They’ll be more than happy to prepare bespoke drinks and generally ensure your drinking pleasure, while a small band plays Chinese classics. Just don’t expect anything too crazy – after all, there’s a functioning Sichuan restaurant slap-bang in the middle of the dancefloor. > 2nd Floor (opposite Tianjin University), Bolian Building, 155 Weijing Lu, Nankai district 南开区卫津路155号博联大厦 2楼(天津大学对面) (022 2337 2444) Sitong Bar M Though the name and decor are Chinese, Sitong is the after-hours club du jour for the needy and desperate (foreign and domestic alike). Wander in around 1am and expect to find archetypal Yellow Fever sufferers, gurning to deafening music, traditional Chinese twerking and, of course, a Filipino band.

The drinks flow fast and cheap, hence the local saying: “If you cannot get laid in Sitong/ Then you’re doing it all wrong.” Stay safe, amigos! > Daily 8.30pm-3am, Basement of Olympic Towers, No.126 Chengdu Dao, Heping 和平区成都道126号奥林匹 克大厦负一层 (022 2337 7177; 138 2622 6777) River Lounge ¥¥ **

There are few better ways to enjoy the sparkling views of the Hai River than by drinking it all in with a Bloody Mary. Relax on a luxurious leather sofa and enjoy complimentary snacks (including an international cheese selection) during Happy Hour (6pm-8pm). A location close to the lobby means things remain lively yet still discreet whether it is an afternoon rendezvous with tea and cakes or cocktail hour, when Bloody Mary aficionados seek out the famous World Tour (with appetizers) of the signature drink. > Daily 10am-1am, 158, Zhang Zi Zhong Lu, St. Regis Hotel, 1st Floor, Heping 和 平区张自忠路158号瑞吉金融街酒店 一楼 (022 5830 9958) Truemans Bar * Sure, 99 percent of the clientele are English teachers who live five minutes away, but this partly foreign-owned bar – featuring a dog called Skipper – has friendly service, lots of beer and cocktails and decent grub. The community around Truemans also hosts regular movie nights, live music most Saturdays and pub quizzes, but check the map carefully – this place is nestled deep in a hard-to-find alley off Wandezhuang Dajie. > Mon-Sun 11am-late, 37 Long De Li, Wandezhuang, Nankai 南开区万德庄 龙德里37号底商 (137 5239 1091)

HOTELS Astor Hotel ¥¥ China’s oldest international hotel, the Astor looks the part and has the heritage to boot: past guests include Sun Yat sen, Herbert Hoover and Zhou Enlai, while the hotel even served as a base for endangered expats during the Boxer Rebellion (1899-1901). Restored to its former glory a few years back, the hotel now features 152 well-appointed rooms: choose between modern elegance and Victorian style. > From RMB850, 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Heping 和平区台儿庄路33号天津利 顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店1层 (020 2331 8920; www.starwoodhotels.com) Banyan Tree ¥¥ The lifestyle hotel landed in Tianjin in April and was an immediate hit with its riverside location – in the former Austrian concession district, filled with European villas, bridges and churches – featuring 159 guestrooms, the best of which have river views and giant circular bathtubs easily good for two (or more). With JIN bar and two restaurants (The Grill particularly recommended), you’ll never need to leave, indulging instead in Banyan’s “experiences” (they’re not just massages, people!) > 34 Haihe East Road, Hebei 河北区 海河东路34号 (022 5861 9999; www.

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banyantree.com; email:tianjinriverside@ banyantree.com) Cloudy Bay Hostel M The décor of this downtown hotel evokes a Mediterranean villa, thanks to its origins in the 1930s concession era, and it’s now painted a distinctive blue and white. Facilities include a fantastic rooftop bar (with BBQ for summer grilling), kitchen, 24-hour hot water, A/C, free WiFi, laundry bike rental service.

Female dorm and (reasonably smart) private bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms are available for a price. The small family restaurant next door offers terrific local food, friendly service and rock-bottom prices. > Dorms from RMB60-80 (YHA card permitting); private rooms from RMB380, 120 Harbin Roald, Heping 和 平区哈尔滨路120号 (022 2723 0606; cloudybayhostel@hotmail.com) Hanting 汉庭酒店 M A respectable budget option in China, Hanting offer reasonably smart – if a touch Spartan – rooms with old-fashioned hotel decor, and decent showers.

Never a bad choice if you just want a place to crash and send a couple of emails. > From RMB208, 164 Liaoning Lu, Heping 和平区辽宁路164号 022 5885 3288)

Holiday Inn 假日酒店 ¥

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Out of eight in Tianjin, the branch right by the Tianjin Eye on the Haihe – about a ten minute walk from Banyan Tree – offers the best location, as well as 419 clean, standard, tastefully decorated riverside rooms. > From RMB730, Phoenix Shopping Mall A, Haihe Dong Lu, Hebei 河北区海河东 路 (022 5863 2999; www.ihg.com) Minyuan 33 民园33 ¥¥ Minyuan is the best choice for those who like the high life but prefer an intimate setting. With seven spacious, British-themed rooms (we highly recommend the James Bond) in an historic hutong setting, right next to some of the best restaurants in town (Café Sambal, Geba Geba and Casa di Niao), bars and clubs. > From RMB980, 5 Minyuan Xi Li, 31 Changde Dao, Heping 和平区常德道31 号民园西里5号 (022 2331 1626; www. minyuan33.com) St. Regis One of the most prestigious of the downtown hotels, St Regis combines a respect for tradition, such as its signature Bloody Mary, with classical style – not to mention fantastic river views, 274 sumptuous rooms and Tianjin’s first Butler Service: Personalized bi-lingual attention. It’s close to summertime favorite

Italian Style Street, though both restaurants are top notch, and there’s a complimentary finger buffet come Happy Hour. > From RMB850, 158 Zhangzizhong Lu, Heping 和平区张自忠路158号 (022 5830 9999; www.starwoodhotels.com) The Ritz-Carlton ¥¥ Occupying a grand and imposing neo-colonial reconstruction on Jeifang Beilu, The RitzCarlton, Tianjin is one of the most impressive new hotels on the scene, with a great selection of food and drink options. The interior could rival Buckingham Palace for its grandeur. > No. 167 Dagubei Road, Heping 和平区 大沽北路167号 (5857 8888) Tangla ¥¥ Formerly the Tianjin Raffles, which pulled out a couple of years back – sending a shudder up the international hotel trade – the Tangla boasts the largest suites in town, all richly appointed in Art Deco-style furnishings. Buffet restaurant Sóu restaurant specializes in sushi, Boston lobster, Dalian oysters and homemade pizza, plus a fantastic city view, while the hotel bar is one of the most popular in town. > From RMB989, 219, Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南京路219号天津中心唐拉雅 秀酒店 (022 2321 5888)

Tianjin Three Brothers Youth Hostel The YHA is still relatively new in Tianjin, but this tourist-friendly hostel tucked away in Wu Da Dao has your back(pack). Bike rentals and horse-drawn carriages are minutes away and the hostel is clean. RMB238 gets you a private room with king-sized bed. > From RMB80 (RMB70 YHA), 141, Chongqing Lu, Heping 和平区重庆道 141号 (022 2723 9777; 186 2285 2808; gesahostel@163.com) Westin ¥¥ Rising above the old concession precincts, the Westin’s dramatic lobby immediately puts guests at ease with its sense of a chattering but relaxed social hub. Close to the best shopping areas, The Westin has 275 understated rooms with Herman Millar furnishings, signature Heavenly Beds and rainforest showers.

Heated pool, an ultra-modern gym, signature Heavenly spa by Westin and gourmet breakfast buffet tick all the ritzy boxes.

There's also a great range of restaurants with western and Chinese both represented. > From RMB855, 101 Nanjing Lu, Heping 和平区南 京路101号 (022 2389 0088; www.westin.com/tianjin)

feature » COMMUNITY

All-American Hero

Quick-Thinking Tianjin Doctor Saves Local Child

The Women's Tennis Association (WTA) tournament held in Tianjin last October was cause for celebration throughout the city, attracting thousands of spectators and an impressive events crew. One person present on the medical team was Dr. Hurm from Tianjin United Family Hospital, who volunteered at the event, as is his generous nature. After the event, as Dr. Hurm and his crew travelled back to the hospital in an ambulance, they passed the ghastly scene of a young boy laying on the side of the road. The ambulance stopped and the team got to work checking vitals and calling for back-up. The media crews from the Tennis Tournament were behind them and were privy to this good samaritan act, praising Dr. Hurm as a hero. The humble doctor says it was far from that. “I’m a big guy, and the ambulance had no gloves in my size. So, all I did was support the boy’s

neck as we turned him over. The real credit should go to nurse Song and Li who did all the real work.” The driver, Tom Li, managed to get the boy, a victim of a drunk hit-and-run, to a nearby hospital in time for Dr. Bo to perform lifesaving surgery, which Dr. Hurm initially footed the bill for. The boy (whose name is Yang Ren) is now stable at Beijing United Family Rehabilitation Hospital. Coming from a humble farming family from Guizhou, Yang Ren has experienced a great deal of tragedy in the past few years. The hospital has followed Dr Hurm’s generous example by greatly discounting a family room and starting a charity to raise money for the family. Although it is impossible to say whether he’ll pull through, Dr Hurm has mentioned that Yang Ren has now opneded his eyes and is stable. They hope for more donations to the cause as this will brighten the young boy’s future.

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community Found in translation A New App Promises Fast, Spot-on Translating

BY E r i k C r o u ch

Personally, I love bad translations.

When I see a sign pleading “Do Not Disturb: Tiny Grass is Dreaming,” my day just gets a bit better. Most of these botched phrases are the result of someone putting a bit too much faith in automated online translators to get the job done (another favorite: a sign whose Chinese read “Dining Hall,” and whose English read “Translate Server Error”).

If you want a translation done properly, you need a human. Someone who understands nuance, emphasis and, well, language. That’s where Lipsync comes in.

Lipsync is an app that pairs users with tested human translators who are able to supply high quality translations on the fly. It’s like having a team of polyglot friends who are never more than an inch away from their phones.

The app launches in private beta this month, and we caught up with founder Michael Park and talked about how Lipsync came to be.

The Motivation I’ve traveled, lived and worked across Asia and Europe over the past decade. I frequently found myself in situations where I needed to call a friend up to sort out some quagmire I’d created for myself.

This was great, but I felt guilty about constantly asking my friends for help, and they weren’t always available to chat.

I was personally willing to pay

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for on-demand assistance, if it existed. It occurred to me that I probably wasn’t the only one.

The problem Machine translators (Google, Microsoft, Baidu, etc) are pretty ineffective for Asian languages.

Anyone who has been an expat in Asia probably knows this firsthand.

Asian languages are so contextual and indirect that, very often, a human translator’s job isn’t only to bring your words from A to B, but also to communicate a whole host of implications and contexts.

There is a great story about an expat at a Japanese tea house.

The shopkeeper told him that there was no sugar available for his tea. The expat changed his order to a coffee and, when he received it, there were two packets of sugar next to the cup.

In Japanese culture, you don’t add sugar to green tea. So the shopkeeper was trying to save the expat from making a faux pas, but ultimately confused the situation (or so the story goes).

If the expat had access to translations that made it clear, “Yes, I know you don’t normally add sugar to this, but…” then there wouldn’t have been a mixup.

Building the app The translators and users who have signed up to our beta have been incredibly passionate, excited and generous with their

"Machine translators are pretty ineffective for Asian languages. Anyone who has been an expat in Asia probably knows this first-hand"

time and feedback. It’s been a joy to build a tool with (and for) this group of people.

The investor community has responded very positively as well. Over the past 6-8 weeks, we’ve been approached by interested parties both in the form of individual angel investors as well as venture capitalists.

We are aiming to get a private beta out before the end of this month, and we plan to raise a seed round of funding in 3-4 months.

The launch We will be launching to a private beta audience comprised mostly of expatriates in China.

We would like to work with this niche audience of China expats before scaling to other markets.

In the longer run we are interested in the market of outbound Chinese and Asian tourists traveling both regionally and in farther flung des-

tinations like Europe and North America.

Ultimately, we hope to develop machine learning technologies that can fill the vacuum where companies like Google and Microsoft have, so far, failed, creating accurate and contextually aware translations.

How can our readers take part?

We’d love for your readers to take part! Translators and users can request a private invitation on our website. If you feel particularly compelled to get into the early private beta period, feel free to reach out directly at info@lipsync.io. Please provide a link to your LinkedIn profile if you have one, and tell us a bit about yourself. > Check out Lipsync online at lipsync.io

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COMMUNITY« language

A CRAZY FRESH INTERVIEW WITH BAI JIE OMG, CHINA’S FAVORITE ONLINE LANGUAGE-TEACHER ANSWERS OUR QUESTIONS

BY E R I K C ROU C H

When we sit down for lunch Jessica Beinecke (more commonly known by her Chinese name, Bai Jie白洁) deftly guides our waiter through the delicate process of making an Arnold Palmer. And the cross-cultural mingling only expands from there.

With some 40 million views online, Bai Jie’s popular OMG 美语, BaiJieLalala and CrazyFreshChinese video series have become the go-to places for learners of English and Chinese to pick up colloquialisms and fun phrases: everything from “Good point!” to “Twerk.” Other popular videos include English and Chinese versions of “Sup Bro,” “Freakin’ Awesome,” and House of Cards.

Bai Jie was in Shanghai in June, and we broke down how this one-woman-and-a-few-

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interns operation has become such a viral hit.

THE INSPIRATION… I’m always thinking of new words to do. If I’m having a conversation with a friend, or on the phone with my mom, or talking to somebody at the coffee shop and I think of a word, it goes in the notebook and it will become an episode.

I’m literally constantly thinking and working. I was just in Hunan and one of the women in Yueyang at dinner was singing a song about hot peppers and I was like, “We have to shoot a show about this song!”

On the CrazyFreshChinese side [teaching Chinese to English-speakers] I think, “What would the average teenager in Ohio want to learn to say in Chinese? What is something they

would learn in Chinese right now that they could instantly use?”

Maybe just to replace an English word every once in a while. Instead of saying “Sup bro,” they can say “Ge’mer, zenme yang?”

For BaiJieLalala [teaching English to Chinese-speakers], I think of my former roommates in Beijing and Hangzhou; they were truly the first people who helped me connect with Chinese language and culture.

I love to base videos on requests. Some of them are too weird to do, and I’ll say, “Sorry, that’s too weird.” I definitely vet it, but the more I can make it about the followers and what they want to learn, the better.

THE PRODUCTION… I shoot a lot of stuff selfie-

feature » COMMUNITY

themed weeks like House of style, on the go. I mostly shoot Cards [which included, among in my apartment, with a big other things, dressing in a wig projector screen I bought on and eating ribs] and I’ve been Amazon that folds down and thinking about a Beyoncé week. goes behind my couch. I live in THE FANS… a less-than-400-square-foot It blows my mind that peoapartment in New York City, ple are so nice to me online in and I shoot everything on my comments. I don’t know how I iPhone. It connects to a little got so lucky. tripod I rigged up for it.

Chinese fans are the best At the moment I still profans on the planet. I love all cess all of the videos by myself. fans equally, but I love Chinese There’s something about the fans a little bit more. They are way the video flows that I’m reso passionate about learning ally obsessed with controlling. I English, and they are all so developed a flow and an energy positive with their comments to these shows, how it should and their interactions with the look and sound. blogs. There’s just a love there These videos are about 30 that doesn’t exist anywhere seconds long, usually. I write it, else in the world. Chinese fans I shoot it, I cut it, I put it online are the bomb, I love them. and I curate the social media.

I “put it online” means I upSo I said, “Ok we’re goload it to 8 platforms, so it’s ing to learn some words!” quite time consuming.

It’s great to have a plan, And in the mountains of but then meetings pop up, Zhuzhou, the word “Swag” and you go to China, and rang clear you do all of this other stuff, I just returned from Hunan, and your process gets flipped and I visited more than 1,000 around and it turns out being students in high school and a re-run day. There are re-run middle school in a day and a days, I admit. Sometimes it’s half. They were all so excited. just necessary.

The most incredible part was TWERKING… when this school in Zhuzhou Everybody loves the brought out the entire 8th “Twerk” episode. People think grade: how do you interact with it’s so funny. Kids in China and 600 kids? the US know twerk, and they So I said, “Ok we’re going to think it’s funny that that’s the learn some words!” And in the Chinese term for it. Diàntúnwǔ mountains of Zhuzhou, the 电臀舞 [that is, “electric butt word “Swag” rang clear. They’re dance”] is just hilarious. It’s screaming words like “Flip such a literal term, it’s probably Flops” and “Swag” and “Gorg” my favorite Chinese word right and “Totes” at the top of their now. lungs. They were so into it and I try to focus on what young so excited. people would want to use right THE CELEBRITY… now, and I want to give them If I go to China Town or a balance of the basics as well a Chinese restaurant in New as something that is relevant York, people are like, “Are you to pop culture. I’ve also done

that girl?” I’ve had this kid come up to me in a dim sum place in China Town and ask for a selfie. I’ve met so many college students in America who have come up to me and said “Thank you so much.” It’s that same love that I hope to establish with English-speaking fans, but they’re harder on me.

There are also so many kids in America taking Chinese now. Many colleges and high schools see Chinese as something they have to offer, or that they should offer and they just haven’t gotten the chance yet.

It’s obviously being discussed and considered.

I’ve been approached by people of all backgrounds who are learning Chinese and they’re like, “We watch your show! Oh my god Crazyfresh!”

It’s really cool to experience that.

Learning a new language is painful for a very long time, but then it’s not! And you feel proud about the work that you put in. The videos are something to encourage people to keep going. You’re not going to get fluent from watching them, but you’re going to have fun and gain some new inspiration for the language you’re learning.

THE NEW DA SHAN? No. People keep saying that, but I don’t believe them. How could I be Da Shan? He’s almost like a mythical creature. Nobody’s like, “Hey, you’re from America, do you know Bai Jie?”

> To learn more about Bai Jie’s work,

check out CrazyFreshChinese.com, where you can binge-watch from her video library. Her work is sponsored by the 100,000 Strong Foundation and the Asia Society.

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family LISTINGS Children’s Mall 彩悦城 An entire shopping center devoted to entertaining the tiny minds of kids, Cai Yue Cheng mall is a fantasyland for the little folks, with (somewhat creepily named) family-friendly areas such as “Little Girls Land” offering miniature train rides, bumper cars, bouncy castles, playgrounds, cinema, climbing frames, ball pits and, on the second and third floors, “edutainment”-type zones with things such as music and language classes. Wish they’d had this sort of place when we were children! > RMB60/hour, RMB120 all-day pass (plus RMB100 deposit. Some rides cost extra), Daily 9am-5pm. 42 Fairyland Road (next to Galaxy Mall), Hexi 河西区彩悦城在 银河广场 - 乐园道, 广东路的路口 Happy Valley Tianjin Buckle up: You’re going to need some restraint to put up with the ridiculous queues. The 350,000sqm Tianjin edition of the franchise has 56 rides, six themed areas – including Heart of the Ocean, Viking Harbor, Christmas Village and Leap into the Caribbean – a 4-D cinema, wooden rollercoaster, Crazy Bird ride and full water park, but it’s also lousy with poorly behaved tourists and their unbelievably spoilt children, plus the lines mean you’ll be lucky to try two of these rides. Which is a shame, because this place should be awesome. > RMB180, Mon-Fri 9:30am-5pm, Weekends 9am-5pm (Sat & Sun), Donglizhiguang Dadao, Dongli Lake Holiday Resort, Dongli 天津市东丽区东 丽湖旅游度假区东丽之光大道 (022 8497 7847; www.tj.happyvalley.cn/) Tianjin Eye This huge Ferris wheel that sits at the north of the city center is, in fact, that largest in the world – that’s suspended over water, at any rate. Woo-hoo. At its peak of 120 meters, it offers some of the best panoramic views of the whole city from one of 64 glass pods. Try to time your 30-minute ride so that you see the city lit up at night – a good option when there’s a thick layer of smog covering the place during the day. It sits just north of the point where the Haihe splits, so it is a good option for resting those weary legs if you’ve been walking along the river all day.

Expect long queues on weekends and public holidays. > Daily 9.30-9.00pm, adults RMB70; kids RMB35; family pass, includes private pod for five persons, RMB400, Yongle Bridge, Hebei 河北区三岔河口永乐桥上 (022 2628 8830)

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family

Hai River Cruise The Hai River, connected to the Grand Canal that links north and south China, bisects the city from north to south, looping around the central Heping district. You can enjoy the views – a mixture of old colonial relics, breathtaking modern structures, and what-were-they-thinking 20th-century oddities – from the comfort of a motorized vessel, leaving the port by Ancient Culture Street every hour or so. At night, it’s vaguely romantic (we guess; we’re not romantics).

However, it’s a pleasant walk along side the river, and the newly completed Jinwan Plaza, opposite the main station, provides some options for a bite to eat along the way.

In summer, along the stretch of river that passes by the St. Regis, you can see fishermen dangling their rods in hope of a bite, while 100 meters upstream, you can see various young people splashing around in the water. > Daily, leaving Ancient Culture Street from 9am-4:30pm, Adults RMB80; Kids RMB40, Zhangzizhong Lu, nr. Ancient Culture Street, Nankai 南开区张自忠路文 化街码头(022 2705 9678)

Tianjin Radio and Television Tower Visible from all over the city, the Tianjin TV tower (a carbon copy of Canada’s CN tower) reaches 415m high – although the viewing platform is only about three quarters of the way up. Built in 1991, at one point it was the tallest building in all of Asia. On a clear day, you get an absolutely fantastic view of the city, whose furthest reaches in all directions can be easily seen from up here in its 360-degree viewing pad (there’s a restaurant at the top, but it’s missable). If you need a proper bite to eat, the adjacent Shanggu complex, directly op-

posite the exit to the tower, has plenty of good restaurants. > Daily, RMB50, Weijin Nan Lu, Hexi 河 西区卫津南路 (022 2334 3557) TEDA Aquarium It might be all the way out in Binhai, but if the kids need something to keep them occupied all day, try the Tianjin Haichang Polar Ocean World (Tianjin Aquarium to you and me). It has all the major players in the aquatic world – minus a blue whale, dammit – such as some rather active Arctic wolves and a particularly sad-looking Polar bear. As you would expect, they are housed in an enclosure that could not be described as

spacious. Don’t miss the shows, daily, at 11:30am and 3:30pm, which feature some acrobatic dolphins being goaded by smiley trainers in wetsuits. > Daily 9am – 5pm, Adult RMB160, kids RMB80 (under 1.2m go free), 61 Xiangluowan Bay Business Area, Binhai 滨海新区响螺湾商务区61号 (022 6622 7777) Tianjin TEDA The Binhai/TEDA area, way out east of the city, is home to Tianjin’s official football team – although they have been known to play the occasional exhibition match in the Olympic Stadium in town. The quality of football is not exactly Premier League, but you might catch a cameo appearance from an ageing European star in the twilight of their career. Don’t be afraid to buy tickets from touts outside the ground: We have on every occasion and they’ve always been authentic, and you can bargain hard. League games cost around RMB50 for a ticket, Asian Champions League games tickets might breach triple figures. The season runs through till the end of November. Check www.soccerway.com for full schedules. > TEDA Football Stadium, Beihai Lu, Binhai 滨海新区北海路泰达足球场 (022 6622 0608) Tianjin Water Park 天津水上公园 Tianjin is an extremely pleasant city to stroll around, so it would seem right to include the Water Park – a suitable title for an area that’s about 70 percent liquid. Paddle and rowing boats, naturally, are available to rent but you can also let a motorized version tour you around if it’s a hot, sticky day. The other 30 percent of the park, despite its huge popularity, we can’t get that excited about. It’s mostly grey plazas, grass you can’t technically walk on and empty fountains. The north end has a small cobwebby theme park area (at least, we think that’s what it is. It could just as well be an old film set for a horror movie). It makes for an interesting stroll, nonetheless. Don’t leave without a glance over the great, Chinglish-rich ‘park rules’ sign (sadly, no “quarrying” or “gang warfare” allowed, apparently).

There’s also a zoo in the south section but its morose collection of critters are probably best left to their own doomed devices. > Daily 6am-6pm, RMB30, 33 Shuishang Gongyuan Beilu, Nankai 南开区水上公 园北路33号 (022 2335 0095)

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