That's Beijing - June 2015 by That's - Pulse of The City

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4 00 8 2 0 8428 城市漫步北京英文版 06 月份国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press

ISSN 1672-8025

JUNE 2015

2015 BEST BEIJING AWARDS VOTING ENDS JUNE 19

主管单位：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位：五洲传播出版社地址：北京市海淀区北三环中路 31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 刘扬 Liu Yang 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静，李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Deputy Editor Oscar Holland Senior Editors Marianna Cerini, Noelle Mateer Designers Tin Wu, Xiaoran Li Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Andrew Chin, Dr Jonathan Chatwin, Mia Li, Trevor Marshallsea, Sarah E. Weber, Qiao Zhi, Karoline Kan, Fahy Yen, Jiaming Wang, Randy Richardson, Sophi Pederson

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TEL: (010) 64175815 First floor of Dongchengyishu No.6, Shizipo Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区十字坡街 6 号东城逸墅 1 层逸盛阁店 EAST AVENUE STORE

TEL: (010) 64602658 Room 108 ,East Avenue, No.10 Xindong Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路 10 号逸盛阁 108 室

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TEL: (010) 65016249 \ 65931220 West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农展南路 1 号（朝阳公园西门南 60 米）三里屯店 SANLITUN STORE

TEL: (010) 64616928 \ 64635156 No.6 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 6 号芳草地店 RITAN STORE

TEL: (010) 85630626 No.4 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路 4 号香江花园店 RIVERA GARDEN STORE

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Operations Manager Ning Zhu Sales Manager Louise Chen Sales Emma Cao, Lucy Denton, Morri Qin, Christina Zhuang Marketing Manager Justin Culkin Marketing Assistant Vivid Zhu Distribution Manager Yang Juan Web & IT Amul Qiu, Ken Zhou

Management CEO Leo Zhou Financial Manager Laura Lu HR Manager Penny Li Digital Project Manager Bridget O’Donnell General enquiries (010) 8447 7002 Editorial (010) 8447 7069 bjeditor@urbanatomy.com Events (010) 8447 7069 bjevents@urbanatomy.com Distribution/Subscription (010) 8447 7002 bjdistribution@urbanatomy.com Marketing (010) 8447 7603 bjmarketing@urbanatomy.com Advertising (010) 8447 7073 bjadvertising@urbanatomy.com Fax (010) 8447 6455

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TEL: (010) 58692326 \ 58692253 0413 of Building 4, Jianwai SOHO, No. 39 Middle Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路 39 号建外 SOHO4 号楼 0413

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EDITOR’S NOTE

DEALS

We‘re giving away tickets to some of

JUNE

the very biggest

LIVING IN A CITY LIKE BEIJING IS A GOOD REMINDER THAT NOTHING IS PERMANENT,

or to quote the ancient Greek philosopher Heraclitus: everything flows and nothing stays. This month, the magazine is undergoing some significant changes of its own – with the departure of Senior Editor Karoline Kan and the arrival of new Food and Drink Editor Noelle Mateer. Karoline was at the magazine when I arrived over two years ago – and it has been a great pleasure of mine to have worked alongside her during that period. A veracious journalist, with a great skill for story telling (and an infectious sense of humor) – Karoline was responsible for some of the magazine’s all-time great stories. From her long and nuanced exploration of the plight of the city’s small Mahdi Muslim refugee community (‘Seeking Fortune and Asylum in Beijing,’ August 2014), to her personal account of family life inside the secretive world of PLA military compounds (‘The Last of the Gilded Citadels,’ January 2014), Karoline’s work was not only a great joy to help develop and edit – but also central to the magazine’s attempts to redefine its voice. Karoline is no doubt set for great things – and I look forward to one day having an opportunity to work with her again. Change is the topic of this month’s magazine too. In our cover story (page 36), Dr Jonathan Chatwin explores the enduring influence of China’s oldest philosophical text, the I Ching, or as it’s known in English, the Book of Changes. On pages 42 to 45, Oscar Holland and I attempt – with varying degrees of success – to apply its teachings to everyday life. On page 10, I brush off a dusty copy of the 2005 Lonely Planet Guide to China and set about exploring the Sanlitun, Gulou and Dashilar of yesteryear – just how much can one city change in a decade? (Hint: a lot). On page 35, we welcome new music columnist Sophia Pederson, as she goes in search of the city’s psychedelic underground, while on pages 46 to 59, our newest member of the team, Noelle Mateer takes control of the Food and Drink section – and lets rip on new restaurant J Da Xia. So, until the next time

Beijing events, parties, openings, shows and talks throughout June, alongside a whole other host of free meals, drinks discounts and giveaways. All you have to do is scan the QR code below, follow us on WeChat and stay alert for your chance to win.

Stephen George Editor-in-Chief Below left | A Beijing subway ticket uncovered from my 2005 copy of the Lonely Planet Left | The spirit of the age; me and Bugs Bunny kicking it in Gulou Below | New Food and Drink Editor Noelle Matter and outgoing Senior Editor Karoline Kan

T hats_Beijing t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s _ B e i j i n g facebook .com/pages/ T hats-Beijing

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QUOTE OF THE MONTH “It was a wild, wild place in those early days. There was nowhere else like it at the time. It was unique. No-one really knew what they were doing – everyone was just making it up as they went along”

6 CIT Y

Koryo Tours founder, Nick Bonner, discusses the early days of Sanlitun’s bar scene, page 15

8 SHE’S A MODEL Can real-dolls plug Beijing’s gender imbalance?

9 CONFUCIAN CREDIT Our agony uncle tackles mounting debts and difficult truths 17 URBAN DICTIONARY Maimeng – if cuteness is worth something, sell it

18 LIFE & ST YLE

18 OPENS IN NEW WINDOW Founders of Sanlitun start-up, Pop-Up Beijing

20 SHADY DEALS Our pick of summer sunglasses for him and her 27 PORTR AIT OF CHINA An essential look from novelwriting sommelier, George

28 ARTS

30 GO WEST Are Beijing quartet Chui Wan about to break out?

32 CROSSING CONTINENTS Sino-Dutch duo AM444’s longdistance relationship 33 DEEPER UNDERGROUND Our new music column in association with Wooozy.cn

4 6 E AT & D R I N K 47 B A R T IS A NS Brewmaster and original hutong barman Xiao Biar

48 A C C OUN T ING FOR TA S T E Unraveling some of the myths surrounding MSG 52 (ONE) S TA R QUA L I T Y Popstar Jay Chou opens a restaurant. And it’s bad 4 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

THE WRAP 10 THE LONELY DECADE

We try navigating Beijing with a 2005 guidebook to see what’s changed and what still stands

36 DIVINE INTERVENTION We explore the classic text-cumsoothsayer, I Ching, to find out how it works and – more importantly – whether it still does

22 GR AND DESIGNS Chinese fashion is having a moment, but can it become a true style giant?

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THE BUZZ RANDOM NUMBER

That’s the number of Weibo hits garnered by Narendra Modi’s selfie with Premier Li Keqiang. Taken during a joint yoga/tai chi demonstration at the Temple of Heaven, the post helped the Indian Prime Minister gain over 165,000 followers on Chinese social media. Modi’s Twitter account boasts more than 12 million followers and is fuelled by viral pictures with politicians, celebrities and Bollywood stars. 6 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

BAT T L E O F T H E BA N N E D Large quantities of baijiu and research bacteria have joined a growing list of substances banned from the Beijing subway. The regulations, updated last month, now include a host of other prohibited items, such as hair gel, kitchen knives, and a type of scented water used to repel mosquitoes and protect against heat-rash. Small-scale Baijiu-drinking commuters will be exempt, with those carrying less than 2 liters of the liquor being given the all-clear to travel. Similar allowances will be made for passengers wishing to bring fewer than five cigarette lighters or under 10 boxes of matches into the subway system.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

CHOPPER CHOP

AS K A L AO B E I J I N G

A new dial-a-helicopter service has been launched in Beijing by the recently merged taxi app firm Didi Kuaidi. One hundred people managed to order a ride on a Bell429 chopper over the three-day trial period, although over 10,000 signed up for the scheme. International media billed the service as the rich-person’s answer to Beijing congestion, with a round trip to Tianjin costing just RMB3,500 (or to Yanqi lake for under RMB2,000). But while the link with a taxi-hailing app may conjure images of dialing for aerial assistance on a rainy Friday in Sanlitun, airspace regulations mean that the helicopters’ operator, Reignwood Star, needs one day’s notice to approve any trip.

We met 61-year-old Li near Sanlitun where she was walking her 18-year-old dog, Prince.

Q U OT E O F T H E M O N T H

“Basically it is cold enough and everywhere there is sufficient water” LADIES NIGHT A man poses for a selfie with a drag queen at a party organized by the Beijing LGBT Center on May 20.

Alexander Zhukov, chief inspector of the International Olympic Committee (IOC), on Beijing's credentials for hosting the 2022 Winter Olympics. The joint bid with Zhangjiakou in Hebei has faced criticisms about climate and snow coverage.

o rr ie d A re yo u w u se o f a b o u t th e u ti ca ls ce a p h a rm d es in ci a n d p es ti g? in fa rm

“Of course I’m worried, but I think my fear is useless. We can’t refuse to buy farmed products. But what we can do is avoid purchasing things that the media has reported to be toxic. After I heard on the news that strawberries are contaminated by pesticides, I stopped buying them, even after the authorities refuted the claims. As for other fruits and vegetables – sometimes chemicals are necessary to protect them from pests and disease, which is hard to avoid. I can understand that, as long as they don’t cross the line. When I say ‘cross the line’ I mean: selling products that are found to be harmful to people. I only buy ordinary stuff like eggplants, cucumbers and lentils. Then I dip them in salt water. Sometimes I’ll buy organic food if the price is reasonable, but it’s hard to know whether it’s any purer. Buying it is often a matter of self-delusion, I think. When women are pregnant, they have to take medicine to prevent birth defects. This is something we rarely saw in the past. It makes me wonder – we do have advanced technology today but, at the same time, these modern developments can really ruin people. In the old days, we were at ease with what we ate. People and technology were simple then. Nowadays, farmers are more likely to pursue financial gain, which can affect their outlook. We used to buy apples at 5.5 jiao per jin and the apples were tasty. We can no longer buy such juicy apples; the ones we get now are expensive and plain. The government is not to blame. It has tried to control and regulate food production, but as a Chinese saying goes: “Those above propose a policy; those below implement their own.” In the past, people were honest and kind-hearted. You never needed to lock your door. By contrast, noone today would offer help if there was a fire. Too many people have become self-serving, making food production a difficult problem to solve.” As told to Fahy Yen W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 7

CI T Y | TA LES

TALES OF THE CITY

With fewer women in the dating pool to choose from, some men are making their own. China’s real doll (or sex doll) market is booming and some of the finest models can be found here in Beijing. At the sleek Wangjing headquarters of online real doll retailers Chengse Jiayuan, we find eerily lifelike plastic women selling for RMB13,000 a piece. “Touch her, she feels just like a real human,” the salesman tells us. He’s right. ‘Ruolan,’ as this particular doll is named, does indeed feel like a human – soft skin, brown hair and moveable limbs and fingers. Creepy, yes, but get used to it. With China’s male-to-female ratio becoming increasingly imbalanced, the demand for high-end real dolls is only set to grow. And not only is the population dude-ifying, it’s also aging, which is good news for Chengse Jiayuan – most of its customers are between 40 and 50. (All, perhaps unsurprisingly, are male.) “I got into the business because I know it’ll be booming in a few years,” says the 8 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

cheery salesman, whose company sells about a dozen dolls per month. “I want to be the first in the industry rather than jump in later when it’s already hot, because then it would be too late.” ‘Too late’ may be fast approaching. Search for such dolls online and you’ll find Chinese manufacturers and vendors aplenty. But these aren’t your inflatableballoon women of generations past. Professional sculptors have made stunningly realistic fake bodies. Touch her leg and you swear you can feel muscles and bones. Grab her hand and it bends at the joints just like yours. The dolls come in a variety of different models. Customers can choose hair color, skin color, breast size and much else besides. More expensive dolls heat up to human body temperature and others come with a number of pre-recorded moans. Even the dolls’ most intimate parts are customizable. High-end doll companies market themselves to male customers in their 50s and, given the price tag, those with white-

collar jobs. According to Chengse Jiayuan, its clients include those seeking company after the loss of a spouse and those who live far away from their partners and need the help of dolls to remain faithful. But as innocent as these reasons may sound, there are some uncomfortable aspects of the trade. According to our salesman, the designers tried to create a “15 year old’s body” (albeit an incredibly womanly one) and some models come as short as 1.10 meters, though these are marketed as being suitable for ‘travel’ rather than anything more sinister. In 2013, over 500,000 dolls were sold, 85 percent of which to customers in China. We’d venture a guess that some of those customers were at the Guangzhou National Sex Culture Festival, an annual three-day expo that draws crowds of middle-aged men. China produces 70 percent of the world’s sex toys, a USD2 billion value that’s only going up with increasingly open attitudes toward sexuality in China. by Wang Jiaming and Noelle Mateer

W.W. C . D . | C I T Y

I am 25 years old and over 80 thousand yuan in debt. I started buying things on credit after graduating from university. I was working hard, but my salary was never that high, so each month I began to compensate by purchasing one or two luxuries I couldn't really afford. Additionally, all my friends and colleagues seemed to be enjoying these fabulous, enviable lifestyles – always uploading pictures onto social media – and I felt a great deal of pressure to fit in and keep up. My credit cards have now been suspended and I'm receiving threatening calls from lenders. I want to run away and start afresh. What should I do?

Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom

WHAT WOULD CONFUCIUS DO

Young friend, this is a problem very common in your generation – a dilemma not only you, but one lots of young people find themselves trapped in. ‘To start afresh’ is a mantra much repeated. But the question is ‘how?’ To restart means you would be negating what you’ve accomplished, and accepting the fact you’ve failed the first life that you have started – this is crucial. For remember, it’s only possible for a new life to begin if your old one is abandoned. Confucius focused on how to conduct oneself in society – to follow Li (礼), as stated in the Rites of Zhou, which ‘helps me to get on in life,’ as he put it (the Analects, Taibo 8). Zi Qin, a student of Confucius, once asked his son, ‘what have you learnt from Confucius?’ to which his son answered: ‘one does not speak without the knowledge of poetry; one does not live without the conduct of Li’ (the Analects, Jishi 16). And you, my friend,

who wish to start afresh – how should you conduct yourself, and on what foundation should you build your life? This is the important question. At present, there’s but one thing you can and must do: pay off your debt in the shortest time possible, as this is your responsibility and yours alone, and it concerns your credibility. ‘As a person, yet without credibility, how could one live?’ (the Analects, Weizheng 2). All considered, you must find closure to all that’s behind, be free of worries, pay off your debts. Then and only then, can you truly start afresh. Wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing Language and

Culture University, specializing in Chinese culture. His most recent book is entitled Teaching Methods

of Chinese Language and Traditional Culture . Send your ethical dilemma for Professor Wang to bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

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WORDS BY

STEPHEN GEORGE

IMAGES BY

HOLLY LI

Navigating Beijing Using a Decade-Old Guidebook: Just How Much Can One City Change in Ten Years?

THE LONELY CITY The notion that Beijing is changing is nothing new. During my very first week in the capital as a visiting student in the summer of 2006, I was informed by an older acquaintance that the pace of change was so fast, so imperceptibly rapid, that you could compress an entire lifetime’s worth of experiences into a handful of months. The effect, he explained, was “like dog years.” Almost a decade on and the analogy remains a useful – if imprecise – measure of the capital’s ongoing transformation. Compared to other major world cities, Beijing changes quickly, that much is clear. But just how quickly, exactly? In order to find out, I attempted to retrace my first trip to the city using the exact same guidebook I had relied on nine years previously: The 2005 Lonely Planet, China Edition. The results are as follows. 2

DASHILAR I begin in Dashilar, owing to the fact it’s where my randomly selected hotel – The Far East International Youth Hostel – had been located. Described by the Lonely Planet as a “pretty old courtyard with loads of character,” I am surprised to discover that the once popular backpacker hangout is today filled with middleaged clerical workers. A sign on the wall reveals that the building is now owned and operated by the Dashilar Chamber of Commerce. I leave the courtyard and walk east along Yuandong Guoji Qingnian Lushe towards Qianmen. Nine years ago, on this same street, I witnessed a howling dog being butchered with a machete outside a small hutong restaurant in the early hours of the morning. In today’s pet-obsessed Beijing, such a bloody and 1 0 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

FE AT URE | CI T Y

violent scene seems unthinkable. The dog restaurant, like much else I remember of the neighborhood – including numerous largescale, propaganda-style murals – has since vanished. I stop briefly to ask a group of elderly women what they make of the changes to the area: “It still stinks!” says one, to hoots of laughter. “No matter how many tourists come here, Dashilar will always stink!” Described in my guidebook as “a great jumble of silk shops, department stores, theaters, herbal medicine shops, food and clothing specialists and some unusual architecture,” the Dashilar of 2015 retains some element of that messy charm – but for how long remains uncertain. As I enter Qianmen, the best and worst of the local government’s efforts to ‘revitalize’ the area become apparent. Though evidently thriving and packed full of high-spending tourists, the famous shopping street is today a strange Disneyland approximation of its former self, having been demolished and entirely rebuilt. The result is sterile and generic – and somewhat disconnected from the neighborhood at large. Further north, nestled alongside sleeklooking shops selling well-known clothing brands, the Quanjuade Roast Duck Restaurant (“as fundamental to Beijing as trip to the Great Wall”) is one of the few original Qianmen fixtures to have kept its spot on the street. Inside, the restaurant is crammed full to capacity – with staff warning of waits of up to 15 minutes for a table. Curiously, the photographs of Fidel Castro and Yasser Arafat chowing down on roasted duck that once greeted diners at the restaurant’s entrance have since been relegated to the restrooms on the second floor. After a brief survey of the menu (and the inordinate queue), I decide as I did nine years ago, to make the short 15-minute walk west to the better-value Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant. There is something cruelly prescient in the Lonely Planet’s description of Liqun as being “buried away in a maze of hutongs.” Today, the small restaurant is hidden amid a vast sea of rubble and debris. Outside the restaurant, a man wearing chef-whites tells me that most of the area had been left intact until last year. “But now the government wants to demolish and rebuild everything east of Qianmen, including the restaurant. It’s only a matter of time.” I go inside and take a seat in a ramshackle room just off of the central courtyard. With its rough-around-the-edges decor and homely ambience, Liqun already feels like a time-capsule from another age. I order the Beijing kaoya (a very reasonable RMB190); it is every bit as good as I remember it being – and I can’t help but feel sad I haven’t visited the restaurant more often in the intervening years.

1 | Dashilar as it is today 2 | Newly rebuilt Qianmen 3 | Rubble and debris surrounds the entrance to Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant 4 | Visitors take pictures outside the Quanjuade Roast Duck Restaurant 5 | A chef stands at the entrance of the soon-to-be-demolished Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant. Note the partially destroyed brickwork on the top left of the wall 6 | Scenes of ongoing demolition in the hutong neighborhood east of Qianmen

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

GULOU If you want to see what 10 years can do to a city, look no further than Gulou. In 2005, the Lonely Planet listed a grand total of one drinking establishment in the entire area that stretches east from the Drum Tower to the fringes of Beixingqiao. Today, the area is home to more than 50. “Exactly where this city is now heading, no one quite knows for sure,” reads my guidebook’s introduction to Beijing. In the case of Gulou, it seems hard to imagine that even the neighborhood’s most farsighted of residents could have foreseen the changes that lay ahead. The area’s transformation from a sleepy, largely residential district into an ultra-hip hotbed of urban culture is among the resulting quirks of the city’s modernization. My own memories of Gulou in 2006 derive solely from a brief afternoon spent taking photographs around the Drum and Bell Tower, and so it seems appropriate that my current tour through the neighborhood should begin there. Unusually, there is a market branded with anti-drugs slogans being held in the main square, the exact purpose of which seems unclear. Large, grisly placards advertise the dangers of narcotics, in front of which bored-looking vendors sell a variety of cheap plastic household goods, such as toilet brushes and washing-up bowls. Nearby, along the edges of the square, rows of partially bulldozed hutongs peek out from behind a false wall. It occurs to me that the buildings, formerly home to a cluster of bars and livehouses – including the much-loved Drum and Bell Rooftop Bar – went from not existing at all, to existing, then back to not existing again, all in the space of 10 years. Other than the area’s historic towers and various temples, Gulou is only listed in my guidebook as part of a larger bicycle ride through the east of the city. I follow the suggested route on foot and head south along Dian’anmen Nei. The street appears to have been in a

perpetual state of renovation for as long as I can remember – and today is no different. The entrance to Mao’er Hutong, described by my guidebook as being “quite modern in its earlier section,” is today closed to the public due to a large-scale modernization project. I am forced to take a detour and rejoin the hutong further east. I look out for “wall mounted brass plaques” and discover – to my surprise – a courtyard that once housed the North Korean Embassy. I continue along Mao’er, past a cat-themed coffee shop and several small import-beer bars, until I arrive at Nanluoguxiang “one of Beijing’s most famous alleyways.” I usually avoid this specific hutong on account of the heaving crowds – a permanent fixture since the area began to commercialize in the wake of the Olympics – but following the Lonely Planet’s advice I head north, to “take in a coffee in the relaxed, snug courtyard surrounds of the Pass By Bar.” Astonishingly, not only is Pass By Bar the only bar or coffee shop listed by the Lonely Planet in the whole of the larger-Gulou neighborhood, it is – perhaps even more astonishingly – still standing. I enter the bar and head to the rooftop garden, where I meet with the bar’s owner and founder Xiao Biar. As the first person to open a bar on Nanluoguxiang, I wonder if he feels any sense of responsibility for the area’s subsequent transformation. “We had a big influence. People saw what we were doing and thought it looked like fun,” says Xiao. “But we could never have envisioned it changing quite so much.” Xiao, who opened the bar in 1999, originally rented out the space for just RMB300 per month. “My friends here in the city would gather in my place to party and drink beers. And then one night, I had this light-bulb moment and thought, why not open a hutong bar for people to have fun in… and help pay the rent?” Xiao tells me, with a broad smile. “At that time, this hutong was just like any other, a world away from the ‘bar street’ that it is today. I’d come 1 out in the morning and see people going into the hutong in their pajamas with cups of soy milk in their hands from the breakfast carts. There were jianbing guozi [stuffed pancakes] or tan jidan [fried eggs] for sale. It was simple, comfortable and relaxing.” I leave Xiao and head east towards the Confucius Temple and Imperial College on Guozijian Jie, passing a myriad of independent bars, cafes, clothing stores, restaurants, rock clubs and cocktail lounges en route. Described by the Lonely Planet as “forlorn and untended” the Confucius Temple is now among the city’s premier tourist attractions. A major beneficiary of the government’s reappraisal of Confucianism, the temple is enjoying a resurgence in popularity and prestige. As I stand outside, two large groups of schoolchildren line up patiently awaiting entry. The temple’s rising historical status is evidenced elsewhere too. In 2005, the Lonely Planet warned that the neighborhood’s last remaining pailou [large ornate archways] located on the street leading to the temple complex were “braced for dénouement” as part of a “future road-widening scheme.” Ten years on and all of Guozijian’s famed pailou remain very much intact [see image left].

6 | Tourists pose in front of a hostel on Nanluoguxiang 7 | A decade’s worth of drinking takes its toll on Mao’er hutong 8 | Recently demolished hutongs next to the Drum and Bell Towers 9 | Tourist groups crowd Nanluoguxiang

1 | Guozijian’s still intact pailou 2 | Inexplicable anti-drug market in the shadow of the Drum Tower 3 | Backpackers check the menu outside Pass By Bar on a busy Nanluoguxiang 4 | A construction worker sits on a sofa at the entrance to Mao’er Hutong 5 | Construction work taking place on the western end of Gulou Dongdajie

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CITY | F PE H AOTTUOREES S A Y

SANLITUN 1

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I take a taxi (standard fare has increased by just RMB3 since 2005) to Sanlitun, “the hub of Beijing’s expat drinking life in town.” It’s tempting to read the guidebook’s introduction to the area as a place where “approximately 75 percent of expat cafes and bars are amassed” and conclude that not much has changed. But as with everywhere in Beijing, the difference is in the detail. While the area undeniably remains at the center of the city’s international community, much of today’s Sanlitun would appear unrecognizable to the inhabitants of 2005. Standing on a bridge over Gongtibei Lu looking east towards the Third Ring Road, I am flanked by Sanlitun SOHO to my right and Sanlitun Village [Taikoo Li] to my left. Taken together, the two landmark high-end shopping destinations – neither of which existed in 2005 – have come to define a more aspirational vision of Beijing in the 21st century. Indeed, stroll through the area today and you are more likely to encounter groups of perfectly manicured young fu’erdai [sons and daughters of the Chinese nouveau riche] out shopping and dining, than you are “droves of expat drinkers, drawn moth-like by the lights.” My own memories of Sanlitun are, appropriately enough, rather blurred. Though I recall visiting the area – and several bars – I have no recollection of which bars or where. This problem is compounded by the fact that the Lonely Planet’s guide to Sanlitun focuses almost entirely on Dongdaqiao Xijie: A stretch of road that was demolished and paved over to make way for a new shopping complex in 2006. Seemingly unable to locate any of the key places listed in my guidebook, I call in at the nearby office of one-time Sanlitun nightclub manger, Nick Bonner. Better known today as the founder and operator of North Korean travel company Koryo Tours, Nick was briefly responsible in the mid-to-late 90s for managing what my guidebook describes as “probably the most popular bar in Beijing,” the

1 | The entrance to ‘old bar street’ Dongdaqiao Xijie as it is today 2 | The approximate site of Durty Nellies Irish bar, today a Starbucks 3 | Looking south towards where Jam Bar and River Café were once located, today Sanlitun SOHO office and retail space 4 | An elaborately painted Ferrari on Sanlitun Lu 5 | Western Café, since converted into Western Bar 6 | The site formally occupied by Frank’s Place, today a Japanese restaurant 7 | Yashow Market 8 | Long-time Sanlitun resident and manager of Trans-Siberian travel company Monkey Shrine, Andy Jones 9 | Former Poachers manager and founder and owner of North Korean travel operator Koryo Tours, Nick Bonner 10 | Nick Bonner’s self-drawn map of Sanlitun as it was from 2000-2005

now defunct Poachers. “You’re going to need a map,” explains Nick, who immediately sets about sketching the area as it was 10 years ago. “It had already changed a lot by 2005. It was becoming a proper scene. It was the beginnings of what we see today.” Nick talks me through the different bars and their various locations, while narrating the area’s gradual evolution. “It was a wild, wild place in those early days,” he explains. “There was nowhere else like it at the time. It was unique. No one really knew what they were doing – everyone was just making it up as they went along. It sounds ridiculous now, but those 10 early places, like Poachers and River Bar, were really about cultural exchange. It wasn’t in any way commercial, no one cared about making money – not like today – we just wanted a place to hang out with our Chinese friends and play music.” But by 2005, the writing was already on the wall. Rather ominously, the Lonely Planet ends its introduction to Sanlitun by stating that “while the bars here are going strong, rumors of a major redevelopment darken the horizon.” With my new map in hand, I leave Nick’s office and head to the site of Beijing’s original bar street to see if any traces remain. Today, the area that was formerly Dongdaqiao Xijie is home to the futuristic-looking, multi-level Sanlitun SOHO – a sprawling (and still partially vacant) ‘retail and lifestyle complex.’ Using Nick’s map, I wander past an endless parade of mirrored storefronts, in an attempt to locate the approximate locations of “cavernous Irish pub” Durty Nellies (now a Starbucks); “old time music venue” Jam House (now an office block); and “folk and rock music” hangout River Bar (also an office block,

though possibly a pet store, hard to say). Further south and with the help of long-time Sanlitun expat, Andy Jones, I locate the site of the original Hidden Tree (now a hairdressers). My guidebook notes that the Hidden Tree is “a deep rooted bar” that “has been in business for years.” The description proves to be apt; although the Hidden Tree shut down in 2006, it quickly resurfaced in a new location on Beisanlitun Nan, where it remains to this day. “The Hidden Tree was the first and only bar where you could get import Belgian beers, like Leffe and Duvel,” explains Andy, who first arrived in Beijing some 15 years ago and now works as the manager for a specialist TransSiberian travel company. “It was quite ahead of its time in that respect. It was more like the type of bar you find in Sanlitun today.” How, I wonder, did the original bar street differ from its more modern incarnations? “It was just so innocent, so quiet compared to now,” explains Andy. “There were so few people – you tended to know everyone. It was a very small community and extremely safe. It was like a village inside of this massive city.” Leaving Sanlitun SOHO, I take a quick detour west to Gongti Donglu, to visit Frank’s Place. Despite being described as “a bit hoary in its old age,” the bar nevertheless features within my guidebook’s “Author’s Choice” of selected Beijing highlights, due to it being the only bar in Beijing that showed sporting events on a big screen. Long-since demolished, the site is today home to a large Japanese teppanyaki buffet restaurant. It is getting late and I am becoming hungry. Scanning the Lonely Planet, I set off in the direction of the Western Café on Sanlitun W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 1 5

CI T Y | FE AT URE 1

Lu. Described as a “popular western-style café, that seems to hog the lion’s share of hungry Western expats,” Western Café has since been converted into the neon-lit ‘Western Bar.’ I stop for a quick drink (Budweiser, RMB45) in the otherwise empty bar and try to check my email, but I can’t establish a stable connection. “Defying the trend everywhere else in the world, access to the Internet has become harder to find in Beijing,” notes my guidebook. (Some things never change). Outside, a brand new Ferrari, painted to resemble a glowing night sky replete with shimmering constellations, pulls up in front of the bar. I finish my beer and head out to my penultimate location, Tongli Studios on Beisanlitun Lu (today known locally as ‘Dirty Bar Street’ on account of its cheap and plentiful all-night drinking options). In 2005, Tongli was “an impressive lifestyle and arts shopping market… with four floors of excellent outlets selling ceramics, jewelry, jade and arts and crafts, among other decorative quality items.” In 2015, it is a rabbit-warren of ever-changing cheap clubs and dive bars. Across the street is the former site of Poachers (now the dingylooking Youth Club) as well as the Lonely Planet’s top rated “self catering” option in Sanlitun, the Jinkelong Supermarket (since converted into a store selling ‘luxury fashion’). As I prepare to leave Beisanlitun Lu and make the short trip south towards Yashow market, I bump into Marlon Ma, the promoter behind some of the city’s most popular LGBT club nights. I take the opportunity to ask him whether he knows where Half & Half 1 6 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

1 | Jinkelong Supermarket, today a bar and fashion store 2 | Poachers, today Youth Club 3 | Tongli Studios 4 | Sanlitun Village, the approximate site of former gay club Half & Half

(“Beijing’s most famous and longstanding gay and lesbian bar”) was once located. “I have no idea!” replies Marlon. “You know I was still in high school in 2005 – in fact, I hadn’t even come out yet.” Together we study the map and work out that the bar must have been located somewhere on the site today occupied by Sanlitun Village [Taikoo Li]. “That’s so appropriate,” says Marlon. “The whole of the village is gay these days.” My last and final stop is Yashow Clothing Market, on Sanlitun Yaxiu Fuzuang Shichang. My guidebook describes it, reasonably accurately, as “five floors of all the clothing you may ever need.” However, it makes no reference to the ubiquitous counterfeit goods the market became famous for in later years. Today, Yashow is undergoing major renovations and is surrounded by scaffolding and workmen. The future of the store remains unclear, with former traders having being informed that they will not be able to return when the site reopens later this year. Next door to the market, I strike up a conversation with an elderly cigarette vendor. What does he make of the area’s transformation? “It’s no good for us ordinary people,” he tells me. “We don’t benefit from the changes. The neighborhood is just for rich people now. There’s nowhere I can afford to even eat anymore – no small restaurants, or places to meet friends.” He shakes his bald head wryly. “It’s all changed too quickly. Far too quickly.” █

CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY | CIT Y

Maimeng \mài méng\ 卖萌 v. to sell cuteness; to fully display one’s cuteness in public in order to draw attention or otherwise benefit oneself. That actress totally ruined the panel discussion. All she did was say “ooh” and “ahh” while twirling her hair!

That was some shameless mai meng. I bet everyone remembered her though.

Yeah she’s trending on Twitter right now.

The market economy only came to China three decades ago, yet people have quickly realized that everything can be a commodity. Be it youth, power or prestige, anything that humans lust after can be bought and sold.

Fiction

In today’s China, the scale of commoditization knows no bounds. Everything from fantasies to ambitions, longevity to sexual prowess, can be peddled, traded and bought at the marketplace. Ask any of your Chinese contemporaries and

simply means ‘to sell’). It’s the science of marketing in action. Those who mai meng – or sell their cuteness – may just put it on full display to show off how cute they are. Any moment can be an opportune time to flutter their eyelashes, pucker up or make love to the camera, oblivious to whether it’s appropriate for the occasion. They know that their payment could come at any time – and in many currencies, be it money and privileges, or the attention and admiration that fuels them. Moderate levels of mai meng are acceptable – like when your new puppy won’t stay out of shot in your home video. But generally, it is considered selfish and annoying – like when that cute girl on your debate team wears a low-cut shirt on stage and no-one pays any attention to the great arguments your team make. By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in

Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

Beijing bestsellers

EAT, PRAY, LOVE MOVIE TIE-IN INTL EDN INFERNO GWEILO: MEMOIR OF A HONG KONG CHILDHOOD THE SILKWORM ALICE HARTLEY'S HAPPINESS BY NIGHTFALL BEFORE I GO TO SLEEP-MTI VINTAGE C-FAR EASTERN TALES THE LOVE OF A GOOD WOMAN (NOBEL 2013) EXTREMELY LOUD AND INCREDIBLY CLOSE

Non-Fiction

they will tell you that in order to survive in today’s economy, everyone must sell something. Models sell their looks, doctors their training, athletes their muscle and singers their voice. Go to any bookstore or university and you will find titles espousing the science of marketing and urging you to “find your own selling point” at “the right marketplace.” So what’s your selling point? For the most attractive among us, it’s often being meng – a special brand of cuteness blessed with youthful innocence. It’s the sort of cuteness the rest of us can’t resist because it makes us forget our own mortality for a few precious seconds. It all started with baby animal photos and cat videos – we just love to look at them and we’d pay – in some way or another – to do so. Because if they’re selling it, people are buying it. If meng is a commodity in high demand, then mai meng is the act of capitalizing on cuteness (mai

CROSSING THE CHASM-TPB-3E RULES TO BREAK THE BLACK SWAN: IMPACT OF THE HIGHLY IMPR AUTUMN IN THE HEAVENLY KINGDOM-TPB INSANELY SIMPLE 7 HABITS OF HIGHLY EFFECTIVE PEOPLE WORK CHINESE FLASH CARD KITS VOL.2 RULES OF WEALTH-3E RULES OF WORK-3E COLLINS EASY LEARNING MALAY DICTIONARY

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www.pageonegroup.com weibo.com/pageonechina site.douban.com/pageone

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 1 7

COV E T

S P OT L I G H T

Curiouser & Curiouser

Glenn Schuitman and Vito Zhang, founders of PopUp Beijing

Believe it or not, this year marks the 150th anniversary of Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. To celebrate, mother of all notebooks Moleskine has released a limited edition diary collection featuring four different covers as well as reproductions of original drawings by John Tenniel, the artist who drew Alice. Moleskine worked with the British Library to incorporate original artwork into the series and, inside the cover, readers can find a page from Carroll’s original handwritten manuscript. RMB208-288. > www.moleskine.cn

— Tell us about your background. Glenn: I’m a Kiwi, but have lived in Beijing for nine years. I worked as a management consultant for most of my career until, five years ago, I decided to go back to my first love: design. Vito: I grew up right here in China, but spent almost 11 years studying and working in Ireland and New York. Structural design of skyscrapers and bridges was my area of expertise before Glenn and I met each other. Together we decided to challenge ourselves on a smaller scale, and find a better balance between our love of design and enjoying a more stable life.

— What’s the story behind Pop-Up Beijing? Vito: Glenn and I have worked together for two years in our interior architecture studio Pop-Up Creative. Initially, we were both juggling different partnerships and collaborations. Then, last year, we decided to focus our efforts on a joint project. Pop-Up Beijing is the result. Glenn: In addition to our studio, we wanted to build a creative lifestyle space where we could present a curated selection of art, furnishings, antiques and events, so as to reflect some of the best that Beijing has to offer. We see ourselves as more than just a homeware store. — How do you divide your duties? Vito: Glenn and I divide our roles between our two businesses – I lead the design studio and our interior architecture projects, and he

Pop Sleeves We aren’t talking about garments here, but about what we think is your next essential summer purchase: an iPad (mini or not) case from Barcelonabased design company Woouf. Vibrant and edgy, these protective sleeves are some of the coolest around for all you Apple suckers who want to make a fun statement or, more likely, draw attention to the fact you own a tablet. Envy aside, these things are pretty stylish. RMB450. > Bldg 1-103, 29 Sanlitun Bei Lu,

Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳区三里屯路北 29 号楼 1-103 (www.sanlipop.com)

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PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

S T YLE RADAR

LIFE & STYLE leads the showroom, including product selection and curation. — How does Beijing inspire you in your life and work? Glenn: Beijing is fast-changing and rough around the edges, but with an undercurrent of sophistication and an incredibly rich history. To be honest, maybe it’s the rough edges that inspire me the most! Vito: Beijing is a city that now has everything, from the deeply historical to the edgy and modern. Freshly made soymilk early in the morning is still part of our routine, but now there’s also a great coffee culture to get us through the day. You can always find something new and different if you make the effort to explore. I love it. — Sanlitun or Gulou? Glenn: I lived in Gulou for my first few years here and really enjoyed the hutong life. I still love the area, but the tourism factor has grown exponentially, and now I’m more interested in the quietly sophisticated yet underground vibe emerging in the Sanlitun neighborhood where Pop-Up Beijing is. — What are you planning for the coming months? Glenn: We’ll be launching our collection of beautiful carpets from north west China and Central Asia soon, as well as an exhibition of North Korean propaganda art. And that’s just the beginning – we have a longterm program of events in the pipeline. Vito: More importantly, we recently obtained our wine license, and are now preparing to open a micro wine bar. Hard selling isn’t our style – we’re happy for customers to drop in for a glass of wine or a coffee, and just enjoy our everchanging space. Whether they purchase something or not isn’t relevant – we want people to feel comfortable here, to find a sanctuary in the middle of their crazy day. > www.popupbeijing.com

Ed i t e d by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i /

UNDER THE LENS

MADE IN CHINA

Rihanna

Cards Say it Better Launched in 2014 and based partly in Melbourne, partly in Beijing, online stationery brand Paper Provision is rebelling against the advent of digital communications by transforming paper goods into a luxury, soughtafter indulgence. Or, as the company’s motto has it: “We can’t buy happiness. But we can buy pretty things. And that’s kinda the same thing.” The venture is the joint project of Beijing-based graphic designer Cathy Fransisca and Australian

OV E R H E A R D

print artist Wallace. The duo’s simple strong typefaces, stylish drawings and neat, clean designs feature across a range of hard-to-resist cards, gift tags and art prints. Because, sometimes, nothing says it better than a card. Our favorite? ‘Save Water and Drink

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

Champagne.’ Greeting cards run from RMB29 (single) to RMB99 (set of four); art prints range from RMB99 to RMB175 and gift tags are RMB29 (set of five).

> Pop into The Bookworm or

contact Cathy via WeChat (@

PaperProvision) to pay in RMB. To pay by card, check www.paperprovision.com

“ P E O P L E H AV E T H I S M I S CO N C E P T I O N T H AT [ T H E C H I N E S E ] H AV E R E P L I C AT E D W H AT W E THINK IS THE WESTERN WORLD, BUT THE CHINESE F AS H I O N I N D U S T RY I S RiRi caused a stir on both sides of the Pacific when she rocked up to New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala – which invited guests to honor Chinese fashion – wearing a furtrimmed yellow cape that could be described as both gorgeous and gigantic. The gown, designed by Chinese couturiere Guo Pei, took over 50,000 hours to make by hand and was elaborately embroidered with traditional Chinese patterns. Far from being impressed, however, netizens made fun of the dress for its resemblance to a Shandong-style fried egg pancake, or jianbing. Twitterati and Weibo commentators also had a particularly strong reaction to Sarah Jessica Parker's headdress by Philip Treacy – a bold, flaming piece that led them to compare the actress to the villain from Power Rangers or the villain from Maleficent or the villain from The Year Without a Santa Claus.

AW A K E N I N G T O I T S OW N I D E N T I T Y N OW A D AY S ".” Fashion photographer Chen Man, talking about her work and China’s fashion industry to the website Business of Fashion. The visionary has become known for her digitally mastered images that capture quickly modernising China and its evolving ideals about beauty, luxury, consumption and culture in a fusion of Eastern and Western elements. Later this year, Man is set to unveil her first solo exhibition in China, showcasing her work alongside traditional Chinese paintings at the Imperial Ancestral Temple in the Forbidden City.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 1 9

LIFE & S T Y LE | FASHION

Karen Walker RMB1,862 > cn.shopbop.com Pull&Bear RMB99 > www.pullandbear.com Linda Farrow x Charlotte Olympia RMB3,050 > www.lanecrawford.com.cn Ross & Brown RMB1,395 > www.rossandbrown.com

Models: Liva Koziola and Deji Odunlami. The sunglasses worn by the models (Habana for her, Milano for him) are from Ross&Brown, and available at rossandbrown.com or at Decoster stores across the city. Price: RMB837. Big thanks to Ross&Brown for lending us the glasses.

Zara RMB169 > www.zara.cn

FRAME YOUR LOOK

Quay Frankie RMB269.91 > www.asos.com

Throw Shade on Your Face With Our Pick of This Season’s Hottest Sunglasses

For Her

by Marianna Cerini

A serious pair of shades packs a lot of attitude, which can be turned to your advantage if you want to make your summer wardrobe punchier. Sunglasses are as significant a style marker for a woman as a pair of high heels or, for a man, the perfect pair of swimming shorts. So this month we’ve separated the style flotsam from the jetsam, the eyesores from the head-turners, to help you look sharp with our pick of the city’s most stylish sunglasses. Never leave your house without them.

For Him Reclaimed Vintage RMB215.93 > www.asos.com Zara Man RMB199 > www.zara.cn Dienastie RMB399 > www.feilook.com Ross & Brown RMB840 > www.coterie.cn Ray-Ban RMB1,090 > china.ray-ban.com Zara Man RMB199 > www.zara.cn

LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

These are momentous times for fashion in China. The local industry – still in relative infancy – has enjoyed two decades of continuous growth since the first wave of homegrown designers debuted their works in the mid-90s. Established international brands have taken the country and the wallets of its moneyed consumers to heart, so much so that’s it’s almost become cliched to comment on how important China has become for the global luxury sector. Yet fashion houses from across Europe and the US continue to arrive, opening new stores and re-staging runway shows as blockbuster spectacles in Beijing and Shanghai. The country is now experiencing what is arguably the biggest accolade of all: the international art show treatment. At the beginning of May, the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York unveiled ‘China: Through the Looking Glass,’ an exhibition paying homage to the influence of Chinese culture on Western fashion. A mix of music, film clips, photography and clothes, the collection not only fills the Costume Institute itself, but all of the museum’s specialist Chinese art galleries too. 2 2 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

The museum’s director, Thomas Campbell, has said that it might be the biggest show in the Met’s history. One explanation for its size is that it coincides with the centenary of the museum’s Asian art collection. Another, simpler reading would be that Chinese fashion has finally arrived. “The perception of Chinese designers is shifting,” says Alice McInerney, a Beijingbased fashion journalist and consultant. “Now you can shop for Chinese fashion all over the world, in some of the most prestigious boutiques. Back in China, customers – while still attracted to international labels – are craving something unique and are much more open to local talent.” So too are the international media. From the New York Times to the Guardian, the Chinese fashion industry is now a regular feature in English-language style sections. During last April’s Shanghai Fashion Week, a summit organized with the support of marketing giant Ogilvy was held in the palatial confines of the city’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel. The event attracted journalists, buyers and international fashion figures – including British fashion

commentator Colin McDowell and Business of Fashion founder Imran Ahmed. One of the forum’s participants Tasha Liu, who owns concept store Dong Liang Studio which exclusively stocks Chinese designers, explains: “China is finally getting the attention of the global arena. There used to be a distinction between East and West, but now we are all on a common platform. Local talents have been growing steadily for quite some time now – they have refined their design and technical skills. It’s time they get the recognition they deserve.” It’s a view shared by Irish-born Gemma Williams, author of the ambitious Fashion China, an anthology featuring 41 of the country’s leading designers. “‘Made in China’ had become so stereotyped,” she explains. “I want to highlight another view.” The book includes both established and up-and-coming talents, revealing diversity in taste and aesthetics that range from cutting-edge and opulent to avant-garde and minimalist. An impressive variety of China’s design talent was on full display at the Met’s opening gala. Organized annually by

by Marianna Cerini

American Vogue’s chief editor and queen of fashion Anna Wintour, this year’s event saw US celebrities embrace the ‘Chinese’ theme (sometimes with questionable results). Rihanna wore a creation by Guo Pei, China’s first couturiere, while omnipresent Chinese actress-turned-American-import Fan Bingbing donned a gown by rising designer Christopher Bu. Dalian-born Huishan Zhang was even asked to create a Met-Ball themed collaboration with American retailer Barney’s New York. According to McInerney, “the fact that megacelebs are wearing Chinese designers has turned Chinese fashion into a talking point.” But can the buzz last? Tasha Liu describes her position as cautiously optimistic: “China has no doubt left a mark on the industry’s radar. But independent designers have plenty of challenges to face, and not just here. Maintaining the level that’s expected of them is what’s going to determine their success – and critical acclaim - in the future.” During a visit to Beijing in January (made to hype the Met show but also lure Chinese investors), Anna Wintour expressed similarly positive feelings: “I’m sure within

China‘s Rise Through the Global Fashion Ranks

the next generation, we’ll see the emergence of Chinese designers on a global scale,” she told the Wall Street Journal. Those designers may not come directly from China, however. While first-tier cities are striving to keep pace with state establishments like the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT) or privatelyowned schools such as Istituto Marangoni or Shanghai’s recently opened Condé Nast Center of Fashion & Design, wannabe dressmakers often fall for the lure of an international education. Over the last five to 10 years, an increasing number of Chinese students have gone abroad to study fashion. In 2013, more than 50,000 Chinese went to the US to study art and design-related courses – that’s one-tenth of the total number of Chinese students in the States. That same year, 9,000 Chinese traveled to Britain for similar courses. Walk through Central St. Martins in London, and you’ll see hoards of Chinese creatives-inthe-making working on projects, exchanging notes and attending classes. Talent looks outward, not inward. Given the sheer number of Chinese designers in foreign universities (and their growing

participation in foreign fashion weeks) it is no surprise that the overseas-educated are having a significant impact on the industry. Masha Ma, who launched her eponymous label in Shanghai in 2008, is a case in point. A graduate of Central St. Martins, she was selected and shown at London Fashion Week, her collection subsequently purchased by a retail store in London. Ma also shows at Paris Fashion Week, where she’s become something of a fixture on the fashion circuit. Although she divides her time between Shanghai and Paris, it is the latter she calls home. “China is growing fast,” she says, “but it still has a lot to learn.” Like Ma, many of China’s pre-eminent fashion designers began their careers abroad, including leading names such as Huishan Zhang, Yifang Wang, Haizhen Wang and Uma Wang. Many have won prizes, awards and competitions (or received help to showcase their collections) from overseas organizations such as the British Fashion Council. This year, out of 26 on the shortlist for the prestigious annual LVMH Prize for young designers, six were Chinese, though none were named amongst the award’s eight finalists. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 2 3

LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

“There used to be a distinction between East and West, but now we are all on a common platform”

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As in many industries, the West has long decided what is and isn’t fitting of certain (read: its own) criteria, categorizations or typecasting. With Chinese fashion, the idea of defining what makes something intrinsically ‘Chinese’ can make its globalization a double-edged sword. Take the Met Gala, for example. With a title reeking slightly of orientalism (though its reviews have, overall, been quite favorable), ‘China: Through the Looking Glass’ risked being a show of appropriation rather than celebration. Its focus on Western designers’ use of Chinese tropes rather than on Chinese fashion itself didn't help. It’s also worth noting that although Wintour praised the Chinese industry as a whole during her recent trip to China, she also remarked that “nothing that could be called modern Chinese style has yet emerged.” This assessment could refer to many things – the lack of a specific Chinese sensibility to fashion, perhaps, or of a ‘school of thought’ under which emerging designers gather. But what it might hint at (and what some have lamented) is the fact that there aren’t many Chinese designers who have a specifically ‘Chinese aesthetic’ – assuming this means a taste for Chinese themes revisited. Known for collections that incorporate highly contrasted and conflicted styles, as well as totally different cultures, Xiamenbased designer Shanguan Zhe, who founded the label Sankuanz, suggests otherwise: “It’s hard for me to say that my designs have just a Chinese aesthetic or just an ‘international’ aesthetic.” Attempting to pigeonhole Chinese design may not help it gain confidence, argues McInerney. “Most young designers want to be recognized on the world stage for their designs through shape, form [and] technique, not because they use overt ‘Chinese’ elements such as dragon motifs or gold and red embellishments.” Liu agrees: “Designers like Sankuanz or Uma Wang are just so different from each other,” she points out. “But their standards, their ambition, are on the same level. That’s what brings them together. “The main thing Chinese designers should worry about isn’t what makes their work ‘Chinese,’ but how to improve their production process,” she continues. “The problem is the lack of resources and supplies – China is the world’s manufacturing center yet, somehow, it’s incapable of dealing with small-scale orders. And that affects young talents. The local industry should offer more support to ensure quality and help them flourish. Things will only go far then.” █

REIVEW | LIFE & ST YLE

HOME AWAY FROM HOME, AWAY FROM HOME A Weekend at a Serviced Apartment

It is late on Friday evening when we arrive at Lee Garden Service Apartments, Beijing. It has been a long, exhausting week at That’s Beijing HQ, so being greeted with genuine warmth by the porter is a welcome touch (and one that will occur every time we enter or leave the building). For the whole weekend, we want to experience life as a short-stay guest in one of Beijing’s premier serviced apartments. Lee Garden is found near Wangfujing – a part of town we don’t visit as often as we should – and the rooms are a damn sight nicer than our usual accommodation. A home away from home, away from home, if you will. Upon checking in, we find an immaculately presented double room. Decked out in tasteful tones and dark woods, our apartment also features a sizeable kitchen and living room. An even more pleasant surprise awaits us in the marble-adorned bathroom – a bathtub. This is something of a rare phenomenon in Beijing apartments. Rather than heading out, we opt for a night in with a book and a long bath. The bathrobes are exceedingly soft and the bed even more so. We awake early to enjoy a full day exploring the local area. After a light buffet breakfast of fresh fruit and yogurt from the airy Le Café (found on Lee Garden’s second floor) we decide to go for a morning jog.

There’s a fully-equipped gym and swimming pool downstairs, but Zhongshan Park and Beihai Lake are both within running distance (fitness levels permitting). Surely this is the best way to enjoy the apartment’s central location? After showering off (and having built up an appetite with a long jog) we wander over to the legendary Da Dong Duck Restaurant for some Peking Duck – the restaurant is found just minutes from Lee Garden on Jinbao Street. Jinbao translates as ‘gold and treasure’ and – fittingly enough – the street is lined with luxury brands and designer clothes stores. But perhaps the real riches lie to the street’s north. We go for a post-lunch stroll and find one of the capital’s most authentic labyrinths of alleys. Are you disillusioned with hutongs populated by vegan restaurants and fixedgear bike shops? This might be the spot for you. There’s a host of hidden gems in the area immediately surrounding the apartment. We begin with a coffee at the quaint 1928 Cafe on Shijia Hutong, a cozy den awash with curios. But it is too nice a day to stay indoors, so we stroll along to the Shijia Hutong Museum. Tranquil and completely free of charge, the exhibitions provide a fascinating insight into what life was once like here. Displays of old household items – from old radios

to early Flying Pigeon bicycles – transport you back to a Mao-era hutong home. A 10minute walk on, you can experience even more history at the Zhihua Temple. Dating back to 1443, the two-hectare complex houses some of the only wooden structures to have survived from the Ming Dynasty. A few peaceful hours of exploring later, we buy some groceries and head back to Lee Garden. Finding that the apartment enjoys a full housekeeping service (it’s amazing just how much mess we’d been able to make over the course of a single evening), everything has been cleaned and restored to its proper place. The kitchen is spotless and incredibly well-equipped – perfect for some of our amateur Italian-style cooking. It’s Sunday and almost time to check out. But some unexpected work comes through from the office (this magazine doesn’t write itself). Thankfully, the apartment comes with a large desk and lamp. We switch on the BBC World Service (a host of other international stations are also available) and set to work. If we could make this our permanent home – and office – we’d do it in a flash. Lee Garden Service Apartments, Beijing; 8 Goldfish Lane (Jinyu Hutong), Wangfujing, Dongcheng 东城区王府井金鱼胡同 18 号 . For reservations or more information visit www.lgapartment.com/en/, email booking@lgapartment.com, or call 6525 8855.

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L IF E & S T Y L E | A R R I VA L S

SCENE & HEARD wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

①

CELIA B

Shanghai-based Spanish fashion designer Celia Bernardo (aka Celia B) launched her eponymous label in 2012 – a whirlwind of colors, crochet, prints and knits that are as playful as they are covetable. As of last month, the designer has finally brought her quirky garbs to Beijing – at Grand Phoenix, to be precise. Here, you’ll find her latest Autumn/Winter 2015 collection ‘Midnight in the Oasis.’ Although conceived with the cold season in mind, the line has nothing of the drab, dark tones typically associated with winter. Drawing influence from Portuguese artist Natacha Duarte’s collection of prints inspired by the Botanical Gardens in Lisbon, garments come in a range of deep greens, blues and turquoises, with bold strokes of louder colors – hello orange and pink – splattered over playful dresses, skirts, rompers and jackets. Crochet – the Spanish designer’s signature mark – fur and patchwork all feature, but it’s a frosty metallic jacket that has us crushing hard. It might be hot outside, but we can’t wait to sport some of these styles come chillier 1 times. > C14-19, Huihe Nan Jie Gaobeidian, Chaoyang 惠河南街高碑店新村艺术区 C14-9 号

②

T H E B E AS T S H O P

The Beast Shop is a genuine ‘Made in China’ success story. Beginning life as a Weibobased florist in 2011, within six months of launching it had amassed a 100,000 followers. From there, it quickly turned into an e-boutique, and over the last few years blossomed, literally, into a fullyfledged lifestyle brand with offline shops across China. The recently opened two-story shop in Sanlitun South [Taikoo Li] is the venture’s fourth in the capital, and a onestop destination for gifts, design objects and, of course, flowers. The latter are still very much part of the brand’s core concept, and are flown in from the Netherlands and South Africa. Browsing the tastefully edited stock, one can find design-focused homeware from British designer Tom Dixon, prints from American stationer Rifle Paper Co., candles from French label Mad et Len and house-branded scarves, pillows and shoes – all of which reveal a remarkable eye for well-crafted items. Upstairs, a cafe does high afternoon tea and saccharine pastries. Prices, for both the food and the objects, start upwards of RMB100. > S3-11, S3-21 Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区 s3-11,s3-21 (www.thebeastshop.com)

③

RECHENBERG

Known for its sophisticated style, Beijingbased couture brand Rechenberg has gone surprisingly casual (though still chic) for Spring/Summer 2015. Working with traditional dyeing methods and the label’s favorite fabrics – think Tea Silk and linen – alongside jersey and leather details, the aesthetic for the sunny season is one of loose-fitting cuts and silhouettes, because dressing for a hot day should be all about comfort. Experimenting with new hues, Rechenberg has used pomegranate to dye the silk used in some of the garments, giving life to a spectrum of yellows, goldenbrowns and grays that create an interesting juxtaposition with the traditionally earthier colors – red, brown and black – of the label's signature Tea Silk. Minimalist Bolero tops and jackets are based on squares, draped and shaped, often using the full width of the fabric. They are paired with trousers that are wide, comfortable, and often narrow at the ankle. Shorts are also included in the collection, as are essential wraparound dresses. The line also includes narrow spiral cutpants, generous shorts, loose-fitting cowlneck tops, shirts with short or long sleeves, and deconstructed jackets in muted natural colors for the boys – laid-back, easy garbs we can see many men wanting to wear this summer.

> Xinyuanxili Dongjie, yard behind building 12,

Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里东街 12 号楼后院 (6463 1788, www.rechenberg.cn)

PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

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P. O . C . | L I F E & S T Y L E

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PORTRAIT OF CHINA wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i i m a g e by Ho l l y L i

Try to enjoy life as much as possible. And strive to work for something you like and believe in. It makes everything more bearable I like easy, comfortable clothes. And mixing patterns, as you can see

I am a sommelier. I like wine, particularly New World ones. Chileans, Australians - they are the best

I am currently writing a novel, so having that published would be great. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d also like to travel the world W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 2 7

COLLAGE W H AT ’ S N E W

DRUMROLL

Eleanor Carney, Lightwire Theater

The young kings of Mongolian folk-metal, Tengger Cavalry, are back with a vengeance. A re-recorded and rearranged version of their debut album Blood Sacrifice Shaman promises to continue down the furious path trodden with subsequent standouts like Ancient Call and The Expedition. It’s being released internationally by US label Metal Hell Records and is available at tenggercavalry.bandcamp.com.

China’s first Nobel Prize-winning author, Mo Yan, broke into the country’s literary consciousness with 1984’s Radish. The novella has now been translated into English as part of Penguin’s excellent ‘China Specials’ series. Following a 1950s rural work team that welcomes a strange new recruit, the work laid the surreal foundations for future masterpieces like Red Sorghum. Available from Amazon.

When P.K. 14 embarked on their 2013 national tour, they took documentary-maker John Yingling along for the ride. The result is the first episode of The World Underground series, which looks at music scenes across the world. It’s a love letter to the Mainland’s flourishing underground, featuring 36 bands including Carsick Cars, SUBS and Hiperson. Available from www.theworldunderground. com. 2 8 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Lightwire Theater reached the semi-finals of America’s Got Talent with its combination of dance, puppetry and technology. We caught up with founder and creative director Eleanor Carney ahead of her first tour of China. — Can you explain, in one sentence only, what the Lightwire Theater is? Lightwire Theater is a combination of dance, puppetry and technology. — I think you’ll find that’s what we said in our introduction. What's the theme of your China shows? The Ugly Duckling is a classic underdog tale. In Hans Christian Anderson’s story, he is not accepted until he grows up into a beautiful swan. In our [version], we felt it was important to send the message to children that being different is not a bad thing. Our duck saves the family that has reluctantly raised him and, in the end, he is seen as a hero. — Thanks for the spoiler alert. Are there going to be any dragons, pandas or other currying of local favor? Unfortunately not. But there is an epic kung fu battle between the Ugly Duckling and a tiger.

— So, how did you first get into electroluminescent puppets? My husband and I were living in New York while he was dancing in a Broadway show, Movin’ Out, and we were introduced to the wire. We were intrigued by the way that we could erase the dancer and bring our puppets to life in a new and unconventional way. — America's Got Talent relies on empty promises of stardom. How much did it actually change the fortunes of the theater? America's Got Talent introduced us to millions of people! Since appearing on the show we have built three new touring theatrical productions. We appeared on two other similar television shows [including] Le Meilleur Art on TF1 in France where we were finalists. We also just won a new reality-based competition show in the US called Fake Off. > RMB100/180/280/380; June 12 – 7.30pm, June 13 –

3pm and 7.30pm, June 14 – 3pm; Inside-Out Theatre, 65 Xingshikou Road Haidian 海淀区杏石口路 65 号 (for tickets call 6285 8257 or visit item.damai.cn/80957. html)

C A N VAS S E D

Lin Jingjing, ‘Tomorrow was Wonderful’ Lin Jingjing’s ‘China Dream’ series examines the country’s slogan du jour and the aspirations associated with it. Working across canvas, installations, performance pieces and embroidery, the Beijing artist challenges her audience to consider what the ‘dream’ really means, in both an individualist and collective context. Lin brings the latest exhibition in the series, ‘Tomorrow Was Wonderful,’ to Caochangdi’s newly-opened De Sarthe Beijing. Featuring characteristically surreal colors, her engaging canvass pieces are accompanied by installations that present a personal interpretation of contemporary China. > Free; June 13–Aug 2; Tue-Sun

10.30am-6.30pm; De Sarthe Beijing,

328 D Caochangdi, Chaoyang 朝陽區草場地藝術區 328-d (8418 2441,

www.desarthe.com)

H AO B U H AO

Hao Matt Damon may be filming The Great Wall in China but what really has us excited is the upcoming appearance of former boxer Mike Tyson in Ip Man 3. In the final installment of the franchise – which follows the eponymous martial artist who taught Bruce Lee – Iron Mike will play a property developer/ street fighter.

Bu Hao The Avengers 2: Age of Ultron dominated China’s box office, earning over USD150 million in under a week. But that hasn’t stopped netizens from pointing out that the film’s Chinese subtitles are bad. Hilariously bad. There are several examples of mistranslation, the most egregious of which is a Captain America pep-talk that calls on his comrades to run away. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 2 9

“ I D O N ’ T R E A L LY C A R E A B O U T T H E B E I J I N G M U S I C S C E N E AT THE MOMENT”

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FE AT URE | A R T S

GLOBAL TIMES Chui Wan Set Their Sights Beyond Beijing by A n d re w C h i n , i m a g e by X i u D i

CHUI WAN’S ASPIRATIONS SEEM TO LIE

beyond the Beijing scene. Just like their predecessors from the famed ‘D22’ postpunk era (which produced local heroes like Carsick Cars and Hedgehog), the neopsychedelia quartet have long threatened to break out beyond China. The band’s widely acclaimed 2012 debut White Nights led to two European tours, and last month they performed across North America for the first time. Their show at the Austin Psych-Fest – alongside genre stalwarts like Tame Impala, the Flaming Lips and Spiritualized – was particularly well received by fans and critics. But have Chui Wan’s international ambitions come at a price? Criticisms that the band have forgotten their roots would seem well-founded and they readily admit that a busy schedule has seen them neglect their hometown. “I don’t really care about the Beijing music scene at the moment,” says singer and multiinstrumentalist Yan Yulong. Yet it’s unlikely that such a bold admission will dampen the band’s reception at Yugong Yishan on June 6. And perhaps it shouldn’t. Not only does their homecoming show mark the beginning of a nationwide tour, it also acts as a release party for a stunning sophomore album. Recorded last winter in Beijing, the eponymous Chui Wan ditches the reverb of their debut for something “more primitive,” in the words of drummer Li Zichao. Although the disc isn’t drenched in overdubs, it shows off the band’s evolution. Trebly guitar riffs mix with buzzing organs and atmospheric viola, all immaculately layered over danceable rhythms. It’s a sound that is both otherworldly and strangely accessible. “This time we left more space on the songs and kept it simple,” explains guitarist Lin Xinyu. “We wanted to make something that was inclusive and then just let it be.” With a name drawn from the works of ancient Taoist philosopher Zhuangzi, it’s little surprise that Chui Wan specialize in a mystical brand of neo-psychedelia. It’s perhaps even less surprising that Yan describes the group’s formation as “fate.” Lin, meanwhile, has a slightly more

corporeal explanation of what first drew them together. “I was in a noise-rock group called Heart Murmur with [Birdstriking guitarist and Carsick Cars bassist] He Fan. Our shows were semi-improvised and filthy to the core, but our drummer had to go back to school,” he recalls. “We decided to continue anyway and one night a stranger sat behind the drums and started to improvise. He played very poorly, but we were even worse. He was Yan Yulong.” Thankfully, Yan has since switched to guitar, organ and viola. With Li Zichao and bassist Wu Qiong completing the lineup, the group would go on to forge their sound through the mid-noughties at the experimental weekly Zoomin’ Nights (which continues to this day on Tuesdays at XP). Chui Wan are now signed to Beijing indie label institution Maybe Mars. But unlike noisier label mates like Birdstriking, they explore the artier side of psychedelia. The group opt for locked-in grooves rather than ear-splitting distortion, more reminiscent of Syd Barrett-era Pink Floyd, Velvet Underground at their most languid, or Beijing art-rock innovators Snapline. Alongside Birdstriking and psych rock peers like Deadly Cradle Death, the quartet are also part of the Psychoney collective (see page 33). Together they helped reinvigorate Beijing’s live music scene after the D22 bands lost their shine. “[Psychoney] don’t perform so much together these days either. But when we do it’s a lot of fun. It’s part of our friendship,” says Yan. “We were supposed to launch a label for bands with similar musical preferences,” adds Lin. “But we’re too lazy.” They only got as far as creating a logo. But one wonders whether Chui Wan’s selfproclaimed laziness is an easy excuse. Perhaps the band just have their sights set on bigger things. █ RMB60-80; June 6 (with support from The Eat),

9.30pm-late; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details); Stream and purchase the band ’ s eponymous album at chui-wan.bandcamp.com

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A R T S | FE AT URE

A DARKER SHOW The Evolution of AM444 by A n d re w C h i n

Over their first two releases, Shanghai duo AM444 crafted their own hypnotic, sultry take on trip-hop. Then came their Dark Show EP. “Dark Show is very different from what we’ve done before, with all new beats by Jay Soul,” explains frontwoman ChaCha, referring to the other half of AM444. “We felt free experimenting with a lot of things. Some people are really into it and others have no idea how to respond. We’re really happy with that.” Written last year and released across China and Europe in April 2015, the EP was a stylistic departure. It may also prove to be the record that propels them towards a larger audience, something the pair got a taste of during their European tour with French pop star M. “We come from the underground, where our venues are clubs. So playing to 10,000 people at festivals was, like, ‘oh my god!’” ChaCha recalls. “I only sing in Chinese, so I was nervous that audiences wouldn’t understand, but they really felt the music. Surprisingly, there are loads of French people studying Chinese who are really into our songs. It gave me the feeling that language won’t be a big issue anymore. It’s a global world now.” As well as leading to collaboration with M on the single ‘Détache Toi, Shen Jing 3 2 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

“I only sing in Chinese, so I was nervous that foreign audiences wouldn’t understand, but they really felt the music. It gave me the feeling that language won’t be a big issue anymore”

Mo Shao,’ ChaCha credits the tour with enhancing the duo’s live show. “As a band, the best practice is on stage,” she says, noting that AM444 rarely performed live in their early years. “We learned how to interact better with each other – and the audience – on stage, as well as a lot about lighting and visuals. The tour was a big [source of] growth for us as musicians.” Eager to show off what they’ve learned, the Shanghai pair have big plans for their return to Beijing. They plan to invite friend and rapper Jei Wei on stage to feature on a track and MC Webber will play “a crazy set” full of dancehall. “We really want to turn it into a nice, atmospheric show of good friends partying,” ChaCha explains. As the first Mainland artist to attend the Red Bull Music Academy, the Guizhou-born singer has established herself as one of the country’s most promising young musical talents. She’s diverse and flows comfortably over reggae, hip-hop or dubstep, as shown in features on tracks by Uprooted Sunshine, WordySoulspeak and Kode9 respectively. Indeed, it was one such collaboration that first led to the formation of AM444 – ChaCha’s partnership with Jay Soul began when the Dutch producer asked her to

perform live on some of his original solo tracks. “I ended up freestyling the whole set,” she recalls. “I was so into it that I couldn’t stop. Right after, we said: ‘we have to do this.’ The next day, he sent over 50 of his old productions, which is where the Eye Wonder EP came from.” There are big plans for the year ahead. In July, the pair will play festival dates in Switzerland, the Netherlands and Russia. They are also eyeing a more extensive tour of the continent in the winter, followed by performances across the Mainland. A new single, music video and remix record are all expected in 2015. But while AM444 hope to start work on a full-length follow-up to 2012’s Rooms next year, they’ve encountered a hurdle of sorts – Jay returned to Amsterdam a couple years ago. “We will definitely keep making music,” ChaCha promises. “We believe in our stuff and that it’s an interesting mix of our backgrounds. With each release, we’re planting seeds that will grow. We don’t know when or where. But we are still receiving great feedback from our first EP, even today.” RMB60-80; June 26, 9pm-late; Dusk Dawn Club

(DDC, see Listings for details); Listen to Dark Show at am444.bandcamp.com

UNDERGROUND | ARTS

GOING UNDERGROUND in Association with Wooozy.cn by S o p h i a Pe d e r s o n

THE CHINESE PSYCH ROCK SCENE A Snapshot

Psychedelic rock, or ‘psych rock’ for short, traces its origins back to the heady 1960s, when newly available hallucinogens combined with eastern influences to create a new, more expansive far-out style of rock, man. Recently psych rock has been making something of a comeback (or maybe it just never left?), especially here in China, where the sound has come fullcircle and returned to its mystical eastern roots. Not familiar with the scene? Here’s a run-down of the country’s leading psych bands.

Birdstriking (Beijing) – although not ‘pure’ psych rock, at least in a traditional sense, Birdstriking continue to push at the genre’s creative boundaries. Alongside Chui Wan (also featured here), the band are founding members of Beijing pysch rock collective Psychoney (pronounced 'psycho honey'). The name conjures up a dark confectionesque aura; like psych rock, but for your cool little sister. Psychoney bring together likeminded artists in a setting that embraces psych rock’s roots. Recommendations: Album: Birdstriking Track: ‘Magpie’ Where to listen: tenzenmen.bandcamp. com/album/birdstriking Insider info: starting from late May 2015, Birdstriking will be zipping through more than 25 cities for their debut US tour.

met the band’s uber-sexy bassist Morella at a show at Shanghai’s Yuyintang livehouse in 2013. After a string of drummers, the two finally settled on Daniel Jacob, previously a member of New Zealand outfit So So Modern. Recommendations: ‘Happy Birthday 1958’ Where to listen: site.douban.com/ NonplusOfColor Where to see: Keep an eye out for upcoming Nonplus of Color show dates on their douban site.

The Eat (Beijing) – new kids on the block, these hungry rockers started up in the autumn of 2012 and are friends with the Psychoney crew. After taking a brief hiatus for guitarist Guo Zhen to attend university in Turkey, the band are now back together and have got to work tearing through Beijing livehouses. Where to listen: site.douban.com/eateat Where to see: June 6 @ Yugong Yishan, alongside Chui Wan. Insider info: The Eat just finished recording their first album, although the release date is yet to be set. The songs are so fresh, the band are yet to name them. Nonplus of Color (Shanghai) – the latest brainchild of Xi’an-born artist Dong Heimu, this three-piece combines elements of psychedelia and experimental rock. Heimu

Other Noteworthy Chinese Psych Rock Acts:

Chui Wan – check out page 31 for an exclusive That’s Beijing interview.

Gate To Otherside – heavy, early-Flaming Lips-esque garage-psychedelia. site.douban.com/unexpecteddoore

Beijing trio, Birdstriking (both photos by Tong Chang)

Deadly Cradle Death – recently released a 7” split vinyl with English noise band, The Telescopes, on Genjing Records. genjingrecords.bandcamp.com Duck Fight Goose – One of Shanghai’s most innovative bands. duckfightgoose.bandcamp.com Dice – This outfit are mark makers in the psych rock scene. site.douban.com/dice Run Run Run – Recent addition to Maybe Mars’s label roster. Keep your eyes out for this band from Guiyang in the coming year. site.douban.com/runrunrun

Going Underground with Wooozy is a new monthly column written by Sophia Pederson exploring the Chinese rock scene. About Wooozy: Launched in April 2009, Wooozy.cn is a Chinese-language online specialist music site, focusing on the latest and best underground and mainstream sounds from China and beyond.

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A R T S | FE AT URE

”How will you handle your family and society’s reaction? And do you have the passion? As long as the answer is ‘yes’ to the third question, then you will be able to solve the first two“

Can Hiperson Live up to the Hype?

by A n d re w C h i n

Signing to independent label Maybe Mars and being named ‘Newcomer of the Year’ by the social media platform Douban are two ways to win quick attention. But now it’s time for Hiperson to deliver. After months of accumulating hype, the Chengdu quintet have unleashed their debut album No Need for Another History and are preparing for a national tour to support it. Guitarist Liu Zetong is sensing the spotlight’s glare. “I feel like I’m in class and the teacher has just called on me to answer a question,” he jokes during a break from rehearsals. “A little nervous, at a loss for what to do, but very stimulated.”

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It is rare for newcomers to generate such excitement before a major release. Their youth may go some way to explaining their allure – it is each of the early twentysomethings’ first time in a band. Since forming at university three years ago, Hiperson (which consists of guitarists Liu and Ji Yinan, bassist Huang Rentao, drummer Wang Boqiang and commanding frontwoman Chen Sijing) have been taken under the wing of domestic rock vets like Wang Wen’s Xie Yugang. The young upstarts have also featured in the Chinese edition of documentarian John Yingling’s highly acclaimed The World Underground series, which covers emerging music scenes across the globe. But it is arguably the approval of Maybe Mars that has mustered the most attention. “We were deeply drawn to Maybe Mars and hoped to be like one of their bands: genuinely young, dynamic, sensitive, adept at communicating and willing to sacrifice for the sake of music,” lead singer Chen explains. As the driving force behind stalwart domestic acts like Carsick Cars and Duck Fight Goose, the label seemingly tipped Hiperson for success by signing them

late last year. The label's CEO (and PK14 frontman Yang Haisong) recorded and produced the band’s album No Need for Another History, which will be made available in double-vinyl form. “We wanted to structure the album as a timeline, beginning at the immature and reckless period from when we first started,” Liu says of the album. It is a remarkably self-assured debut. Disregarding the standard verse-chorusverse format for something more unpredictable, the disc adds to the group’s growing promise as the keepers of the Mainland post-punk tradition established by acts like PK14 and RE:TROS. Yet their intensity and penchant for anthem-tune group “whoa”-ing is reminiscent of early Arcade Fire. When playing live, the poetic and charismatic Chen demands attention on stage. She’s been dubbed ‘the female Yang Haisong,’ which she is less than pleased about as the moniker may “take attention away from the music.” However, she shares his passion and commitment to Mainland indie rock. The band’s other members are also

keen to promote the scene in their native Chengdu, where they broke out at the forefront of the city’s rock explosion, alongside like-minded peers like The Hormones and Stolen. “Chengdu’s a great place for bands,” Liu says, praising acts like rockers Daredevil and folkies Gajin. “It’s very inclusive and there are plenty of opportunities for different types of music.” “If you’re interested in rock music, get involved in the scene,” Chen implores, while shouting out like-minded young groups like Xi’an’s The Fuzz, Henan’s The Fallacy and Beijing’s Birdstriking. “If you want to be in a band, start one as soon as possible. “If you’re young and want to be an artist in China, you will encounter three questions: How do you support yourself? How will you handle your family and society’s reaction? And do you have the passion? As long as the answer is ‘yes’ to the third question, then you will be able to solve the first two.” █

June 27; time and price to be announced; XP (see

Listings for details); No Need for Another History is available at downloads.maybemars.org

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 3 5

C OV E R STO RY

DR. JONATHAN CHATWIN

THE TIMES THEY ARE A’ CHANGING The Enduring Influence of the I C h i n g

t h e h as be ye lp pe ars boo en , em opl th k. O call of pe e fr e I ve ed ar th rors om Ch r th the “t to all ing e p wo cu oun eir he w ltu d t liv pea str has ast rld cla fi e o r h ’ as tw s fi up ssi rst, of rk e c em s a san ata tio on cs” mo the is c an . It nd ts – of sist o th rst ou s e ne ns wh (th st i te ons ha s si the in soc ed sa lfi C id rd gn ar th ich e a mp xt e m h t c e l ly y at i J in nd n o y r fic ha ak e – tw d the cie rta ohn ed, i n b a fro se nc gi ng e o icta ke nt, nt a M n s e s m m o a ill ted ju – fou nd info En ver to g w ens en n g e s c C ni soc the dat ent rd o lish tat hin orld e i a – w al p fear iona ral bse -tra d: ese er rog ed l C of t rve nsl the s e h ba res imp onfu e t , to ator h se sio er ia cian irte be d) n . in l ex te en Ch am xts i n in a a fo r

le o d D y r r e n n a ge o r io lan cy ies f th n: by in e t is o “ I l t w fr am I do d a ay he Chi om az n se n' ng o of i t f v n t in Si the he gly wan terv its ente was i Jo ng B I C late tru t t iew nflu ent br o ou h er 19 e, e la hi se hn t ve Ca ke ng 60s per alk in nce cen ght .” i w 1 t g n o o a t 9 u t of The teen e, th Oth as ells d.” bou 65, n 19 ry, o th w t h - e w e r r e c e yo T h e t i t i n 6 0 s b u e W Ca Ch t o i t u , w rl J ang rk cen rit nflu ive m titl bu ypi cou att es e r tb uc a e o t i ca en d: n up ote ung es’ has tury rs te in h t' ll “ y t f J ev .’ E of t , in is a bee m org ial Con abo an s th y e r-cu ed p Je n s a W s e m e a h n e A u c o l t i u Vi r k gm tu he Lu e pu uit fo on ll in e ‘ o s lt t t la at re. m sde no ent tho rew fou ign ma is ster ing he en G nly r ic w os B l e u n ific tic Bo n a I t t o ou w S i n sa ord di rg C ra, ins hin fa ob ia a d w Hy bsc obs hat olo nds to ng nt t n a es, he hin an ber g t shd i th g p ha al thi perb ure erv [th gis of q Rich text o m nd He rent g S e n l ta e ue ar , w an ph rm s t mo e c oem t o f y is t h o l i eni d : I C n d st d o k i o a th re e I c , p gm “ I t W hic y, o los nn th ing nte io h t e o x s y lies C h i e r h a, a i s n i n g r a n ns, ilhe h d v e r p h H e e I P o t in ] C e n e s d a o s st o h em n a g is ps, un t st rea lat oub lm’s fies man r G se a hin t Li w or h s g t y ott n w go far but dred rict lly Da s an infl eas ye f r d P i n c t e n i i c h hi od m l i y u t f n a e l h ch u d r de rom her tim y sp ea vid d c en g the n L ilip de ti com s. e t r it a w e e re l of str is s m aki s,” Haw itic al 1 pr Yet eib K. th o th isd e ism 92 eh , t ni ai co n o or ng wh e om e D c k z g x e rd h e 4 ic o F k, mp ug s . pos h t f d o u dif a b i l e e s c s th tra n s i e I . s iti orw bt fic o oo th o a C om at n n nd se h ul on e k t a m th slat or ing th r – a rd. hat t to at Jes e n is io e o e a u x nd E v u n ex ll, it t e d sin n in pl r ‘B gu an m re en rav pla or t o t o h o is la qu a i e a ire xp elin n th ny sio at “ r b Ger tion k s o l a i n g t an t h i n a n o ook ma . ne th n g r y in he o s n, lik Cla n e tirs to g w my at w o u fir e f s h st at ter the it. de ill d It re th ies S tu e I p is e c rn a Ch ont hin x to a i th n g i n e .” e o ac d rig tuin s

C OV E R STO RY

◉ “In the Cultivation of the Tao, one must start with small matters”

The I Ching has its roots in the culture of the ancient Shang dynasty, which ruled China between the 16th and 11th centuries BC. In the court of the Shang, a complex system of divination was developed, in which turtle undershells and ox scapulae (shoulder blades) were inscribed with questions pertinent to the state. Topics for these questions ranged from the weather or the emperor’s health, to matters of warfare and the potential longevity of the dynasty. Extreme heat was then applied to the bones to produce a cracking which could be ‘read’ by the diviner. Evidence of this process only came to light in the late nineteenth century, and its discovery is

the stalks of the yarrow plant, forming patterns to which the I Ching would be the key. The fall of the yarrow stalks (in the modern age, multiple tosses of a coin are used as a substitute) related to one of 64 hexagrams or gua, each made up of six either broken or unbroken lines, which are the organizational principle of the I Ching. The basic method of actually consulting the I Ching is relatively straightforward. One poses a question, and then, using the stalk or coin method, arrives at a hexagram pattern. One then looks this pattern up, much as one would a dictionary or encyclopedia entry. It is here, however, that the reader’s real work begins. Each

attributed to Wang Yirong, then Chancellor of the Imperial Academy. In one – likely apocryphal – version of the story, Wang, having contracted malaria, sent out for the ‘dragon bones’ traditionally prescribed in Chinese medicine to treat the illness. Upon more closely inspecting the bones, he noticed faint inscriptions which he recognized as an ancient version of the Chinese script. Wang then apparently set about buying up these dragon bones in order to subject them to further study. Unfortunately, however, history intervened in his enquiries; in 1900, Wang was commissioned to lead a squadron of Boxer rebels in Beijing and, when the foreign troops finally arrived in the capital in August to break the siege of the Legation Quarter, he committed suicide rather than face humiliation at their hands. His early archiving of the oracle bones, though, led to the first book of bone rubbings appearing in 1903, and the eventual identification of the village of Xiaotun, near the ancient Shang capital of Anyang in Henan Province, as the source of the bones. Around 200,000 fragments have now been discovered, forming the oldest extant body of written Chinese and providing detailed insight into a dynasty once assumed to be mythical. The divinatory system of the I Ching descends directly from that of the oracle bones. The Zhou, who overthrew the Shang in the 11th century, kept alive the culture of divination, but somewhat secularized and codified the process. Where the Shang had used heated turtle shells or cattle bones, the Zhou established a method of casting

entry is named individually, and accompanied by a judgment which the reader must interpret; these judgments are best seen as provocations to reflection, rather than straightforward answers. For example, this morning I posed a question to the I Ching regarding a writing project I’m intending to embark upon: Is this a good time to begin? I asked. I tossed a coin three times, scoring 2 for heads and 3 for tails. This gives you a result between six and nine, which dictates the first line of your hexagram. You repeat this process until you have six lines – your hexagram. For this question, I ended up with Hexagram 38 – Kui or ‘Opposition.’ The short judgment for this is as follows: In small matters, This is Auspicious. Not a clear thumbs up – but encouraging enough. Then, one moves on to a short, poetic commentary, which expands on the judgment. The last lines from the commentary on Hexagram 38 run: The Myriad Things Are in Opposition But their enterprise Is still of the same kind. All of these elliptical observations are provocations to reflect, rather than answers in themselves; “The I Ching triggers,” John Minford observes, “lateral thinking, and offers the reader a way out of habitual, stale patterns of thought.” Any interpretation, however, is complicated by

睽。小事吉。象曰：上火下泽，睽。君子以同而异。

C OV E R STO RY

the fact that, over the centuries, these relatively

edly against haste and cerebral superficiality.”

short poetic judgments have been added to by commentators, both Chinese and Western. The I Ching is best seen as a palimpsest, with layers of meaning built up over centuries. The most venerable of these commentaries are known as the ‘Ten Wings,’ which have become an intrinsic part of the work as it is known today; however, countless other commentaries exist and have influenced, to a greater or lesser degree, modern Chinese and Western editions of the text. Ultimately, there is no one definitive I Ching; it is a work which has continually shifted and altered over the centuries. It is, as the Chinese are fond of saying, “not so much a book, as a spirit.” In 2002, Penguin approached the sinologist and translator John Minford with the suggestion of producing a new English translation of the I Ching. Minford had worked with David Hawkes – perhaps the most revered translator of Chinese of the last century – on the Penguin edition of The Story of the Stone, and had recently completed a new translation of Sun-Tzu’s The Art of War. For many years, the most widely consulted Western version of the I Ching had been Richard Willhelm’s German translation, which was translated into English by Cary Baynes in 1950 and formed the basis for many subsequent editions. Minford embarked on his translation with the aim of avoiding the psychoanalytic overtones of the 1950 translation (which was heavily influenced by Carl Jung, who wrote the foreword, and with whom both Willhelm and Cary Baynes were friends) and presenting a more Sino-centric version of the text: ” I wanted above all to trans-

The text has, Minford observes, much to offer the Western reader. In Eastern Asia, modern readers continue to see it ”as a source of indigenous wisdom applicable to many real-life situations, including holistic health, political, environmental, social and ethical issues, and harmonious lifestyle in general.’ Minford cites a Chinese business professor in Hong Kong who bases his theory of ‘Chinese Leadership Wisdom’ on the teachings of the I Ching. Minford sees no reason why its influence and employment should be limited to the East: ”It is, after all, a text that is based on universal human values, not on any particular creed.” Minford’s ambition to produce a ‘helpful and kind’ English edition of the I Ching has influenced his approach to incorporating the multitudinous commentaries; though predominantly Chinese, those he includes tend towards the practical and straightforward. In the case of my own consultation, the commentary is conservatively encouraging – though cautions helpfully against overweening ambition: “In the Cultivation of the Tao, one must start with small matters. Every line in this hexagram except the first is in a ‘wrong’ place. But progress is still possible – in small matters. Opposition may be healed and surmounted.” Even in John Minford’s wonderfully human and helpful translation, this is a book which requires the reader to work, and to think, and to stop: lofty demands in an era of instant gratification. Therein lies its power and significance, however; it pertains to a realm of knowledge beyond the reach of Google’s algorithms. For the

mit a Chinese Book of Wisdom,” says Minford. Minford’s translation took 12 years – he describes the work as ”exhausting, testing and humbling” – and the finished text has recently been published, to much acclaim, by Penguin. The challenge of producing a new version of the I Ching was, Minford comments, essentially spiritual: “There were, of course, scholarly, textual and linguistic difficulties, but all along I have found that this project was, above all, testing me spiritually. The book itself acted as a litmus test for the translation process, cautioning me repeat-

knowledge and understanding it has the power to unlock is intrinsic to the individual consulting the I Ching. ”If there is total Sincerity in the process of consultation, book and reader come together,” Minford says. ” They are one. The book is you, the reader. It is your reading of it. No more, no less. It is what you find in yourself, in order to understand it. It is what you make of it. In that sense, you are the book.” ◆

Dr. Jonathan Chatwin is the author of Anywhere Out of the World: The Work of Bruce Chatwin. He is a regular contributor to the Asian Review of Books.

◉ “The I Ching triggers lateral thinking, and offers the reader a way out of habitual, stale patterns of thought” 39

The I Ching Using 3 Coins

How to Conusult

C OV E R STO RY

Take three coins with clear ‘heads’ and ‘tails’ sides

比

师

讼

需

蒙

屯

坤

[Note: The 56 hexagrams are made up only of yin and yang lines. If your 乾

hexagram contains ‘changing’ lines (see top right) then simply treat the lines as regular yin or yang lines, for now. Changing lines represent new possibilities and depth that are explained in more detail within the I Ching]

complete the process

to flip the coins another five times to

your hexagram from the bottom. You will need

Write down which line has emerged, beginning

3 tails changing Yang

1 tails, 2 heads Yin

2 tails, 1 head Yang

3 tails changing Yin

one of the following four: a yin, a yang, a changing yin or a changing yang

Relevant guidance can be found within.

identify which of the 56 hexagrams has formed.

Consult your copy of the I Ching to

Flip all three coins to determine the nature of your hexagram’s first line. It will be

C OV E R STO RY

解

睽

C OV E R STO RY

ANDINGMEN, BEIJING

DONGZHIMEN, BEIJING

I am due to visit Shanghai, a city

My train departs in just 45 minutes’

laden with temptation, vice and places

time. Should I take the subway or find

in which I could easily become lost

a taxi? Focusing my mind on the ques-

(physically and morally). There can

tion, as instructed, I tap the screen six

be no better time to seek spiritual

times to form hexagram number 25, Innocence (The Unexpected). Ride the

guidance. But cracked turtle shells, coins and

wave to make progress but allow oth-

yarrow stalks are too antiquated for

ers to benefit also. That sounds

my purposes. I head over to today’s

distinctly like public transport.

equivalent of the mystics’ lair (the

But there is a changing ‘yang’ line

App Store) and download ‘Pocket I

that can be corrected to improve my

Ching.’ The app is designed in pleas-

situation: This is not the time to push

ing shades of yellow and is completely

ahead blindly – wait. Uncertain as

randomized, just like the ancient

to whether I Ching understands the

instruments of chance.

urgency of the situation, I ignore the latter advice and arrive via subway with 10 minutes to spare.

ON A TRAIN OUTSIDE NANJING

THE BUND, SHANGHAI

I feel the nagging call of nature.

After enjoying a perfectly pleasant

Unfortunately, the woman next to me

dinner with an old friend from London,

is stretched out and fast asleep. My

it’s time to decide where our night

need to urinate is pressing, but maybe

will continue. I can barely contain my

I'm being selfish. What if this is her

shock as hexagram number 6, Conflict,

only chance to rest before some

is revealed. You feel you are in the

gruelling encounter?

right but face conflict. Avoid confronta-

I am presented with hexagram number 26, Darkening of the Light. Better to suffer than to compromise

We’ve been friends for over 15

your principles. Keep fixed on your

years and have never come to blows.

ultimate goal. This leaves me con-

There must surely be some alterna-

fused. My principles tell me that I

tive interpretation (because frankly,

could probably wait, but my ultimate

should we descend into street

goal lies in the bathroom. I try again.

fighting, I would almost certainly

Number 4, Youthful Folly. You have

lose). It must be a metaphor. To the

asked the same question too often to

Boxing Cat Brewery.

deserve further comment. The oracle answers correctly the first time only. I’ll wait.

tion even if you win, enmity will be perpetuated.

C OV E R STO RY

FUMIN LU, SHANGHAI

EXACT LOCATION UNKNOWN

The I Ching leads us to Diva. It’s one

I am accosted by a prostitute in the

SHANGHAI

of those ‘order table service and look

street. Her aggressive marketing

Hungover and disoriented, I am struck

like you’re having the worst night

strategy centers around grabbing my

by a dilemma that has plagued hu-

of your life’ kind of clubs. Confucius

crotch and insisting that I want a

mankind since the time of Socrates:

would be horrified. I am becom-

good time. I don't. Taking refuge in a

club sandwich or chicken panini?

ing drunk and a scantily-clad male

nearby bar, I peer through the window

Number 47, Oppression (Exhaustion).

dancer is standing on the bar gyrating

and see her waiting for me outside.

Your energy is weak and your words

uncomfortably close to my face. My

Somewhat ironically, I Ching

will be wasted. The first part is cer-

friend suggests some tequila shots.

presents number 57, The Gentle. A

tainly true. But what of the second?

With the earlier warnings of conflict, I

changing fourth line provides guid-

I am unsure how to proceed. Perhaps

am hesitant.

ance: Uncertainty passes. Act deci-

the app’s all-seeing ‘info’ tab can

sively now and you will have no regrets.

reveal more.

Number 26, Taming Power of the

STARBUCKS MADANG LU,

Great. You are now ready to embark

Reassured, I wait for an approaching

on a major project. Marshall your re-

taxi and run out.

If the answer you receive makes no sense, the I Ching may be answering

sources and begin. It’s a haughty way

Confidently deflecting the young

to describe my situation but the mes-

lady’s gropes, I jump into the cab. She

sage is clear. I marshall the pinks in

attempts to join me but I act decisively

to the other matter I’d been pondering

my wallet. “Fuwuyuan!”

and slam the door shut.

while choosing my sandwich: is

another question in the back of your mind. So maybe ‘wasted words’ refers

journalism a really, really terrible career choice?

THAT'S SHANGHAI TOWERS

FRENCH CONCESSION, SHANGHAI

Editor-in-Chief of That’s Shanghai,

It’s daily existential crisis time. Thus far,

Marianna, has allowed me to use

I have used I Ching to guide relatively

her office for the day. A USB stick

inconsequential choices. But it’s time

protrudes from a computer below the

to 'think big' before the 24 hours are

desk. As I test her chair’s swivel with

up. What am I doing in China? Should

boyish abandon, I accidentally hit the

I return home?

device with my foot, causing it to snap. Should I risk her characteristi-

Number 24, Return (The Turning Point). The old ways are being dis-

cally fiery wrath or see if she mistak-

carded; the new is coming into view.

enly blames herself for the mishap?

You have missed the moment to change

Number 59, Dispersion (The Dissolving). Your personal strength and rapport with others will enable you

direction. Best to wait for the next opportunity. Then I find the app’s following

to dissolve conflict quickly. I own up

disclaimer: If you are a novice you may

via WeChat. It transpires that impor-

misunderstand some of the answers.

tant documents and photos are among

Do not rely only on the I Ching when

the lost files. She doesn't respond to

making serious decisions. Too late.

my apology and I take this as a sign of silent fury.

Y N I T S E D R YOU

E E F A R O F , REVEALED

ne Te u t r o F l a c o L e h A Trip to t

ller n his opening hard. I cut dow in go d an ch proa ai.” rcent: “100 ku t this offer by 95 pe are. I interpre gl us rio fu a e m ts oo sh e H on my part. y) as a bad move tellers (probabl f that fortune ; ry I remind mysel or d I needn’t w ical powers – an ag m ve ha an t n’ yu . do e price to 200 siness. I up th bu st ju is is th “OK, please sit looks satisfied: He smiles and

with silky red suit Qing-era style a g rin ea w and e ), on ama Fortune rstition istorical TV Dr r forms of supe (H he m ot tri d w ad an llo (D s ng ye fooled! “Fortune telli shirt and jean a regular blue l and do not be g fu re rin ca ea ho w be w e , – on nt r are fraudule rstition male freelance r forms of supe ere is also a fe he Th ot ). d g ne in an rtu at ng Fo er fooled! Fortune telli llers is not op her fortune te l and do not be ot fu e re th ca e lls be te lik , d nt un n ches me an are fraudule s of superstitio nt. She approa the and other form out of a store fro !” ed ake me round ol “t Fortune telling fo 0 kuai she will l and do not be 50 fu r re fo ca at th be , e m nt are fraudule hing.” . opow me everyt down.” hite . Continuously ted with many corner and sh on ed o men with w And on it goes ay tw pl ng been presen e , vi th ge ha sa of r es ite m de sp re ol ed he De e t-sponsor I select th ng and elsew The governmen th here in Beiji a tricycle, e. bo to or – st s ed s tie fix hi ni r af ne r te rtu rtu po all loudspeake ving my fo beards and en ahead: – the center of far resisted ha loop through a on Guozijian China – I’ve so cus on the task fo in am to 10 lt e is cu Th It eus near the be ffi . di ph ng is making it plains to Mor nsive) in Beiji ex fooled by. pe eo ex be N nd to As r is (a . e lle al ad er te re fortune n that th things mystic air. I have atrix, the notio selecting which ague Holly permeates the nning of the M gi ” I ask my colle ell of incense is? sm t th ng e idea of free ee ei do th se e sw s w “How do as fate negate e experience of mpany me g th co r in ac fo th to a 00 ed ther B2 ch re su lpfully ag away budgeted RM found to be ra Li, who has he prefer to walk ea I’ve always ld . id ou ne an w rtu s t fo It‘ bu . y re m ill w nslating office. into my futu and assist in tra e white xi back to the the one with th money for a ta e and depressing. ck gh pi ou ld d en ou an ith sh w u up e is a challeng e “I think yo e replies. ess, a challeng teller looks m el sh e th ,” un er rt tic odev fo en N th e en My chos s more au take a mor m beard. He look land electing to tellers curol H ne r rtu .” ca fo an Os as e w yu fiv ith it e w there ar down: “2,000 (see page 42) By my count, hispers. to the I Ching hite beards w w ch ly oa ith ol w H pr o ” ap e, n Tw ic er “Tourist pr r business: yle aprently open fo ow Market-st ack sports to take a Yash e dressed in a bl de on , ci s) de ne I rtu Fo ne), (Wizened (Hip-Hop Fortu as sweat-pants shirt and Adid 44

ing issues with good at manag tive patterns, ta ro trological ijian. into various as the trip to Guoz He also looks e ). ak le m t my op to pe e m formation abou left up to ose, and es, as well as in s younger up cl ok tim d lo r an lle s e afte te ov da ne pr The fortu aged man y career will im just a middled work life (m ly an al l re ita ong ’s ar am m he e if I wonder ct. spend more tim add to the effe mmer; I should to su d e in ar th rn r be te s bo hi ne who dyes rying someo the men and ould avoid mar se. It’s left for sh ea I e ; pl Th es . nd ”) tre ha ch ft “Your le pinching horrible mat the rooster, “a he says while of ,” en ar es ye om lv e w vo th e in th d fying right for inutes an with a magni sts about 15 m xes. examining it whole thing la , en av charts and inde my hand and He ith of w s-referencing , I see the lines os lm cr pa of ur ts yo lo m cts of glass. “Fro ents three aspe enjoyable. , which repres rdance It is strangely n; ve ea Earth and Man H agnosis in acco of t of the final di gence, the gift ha lli w te t In Bu r: advice te al ac your char es, the gift ere any practic rth; Good featur I Ching – is th Ea e th of ft ith gi w e th , Goodwill them all.” ay? u, sir, possess I can take aw d peers at of Man. And yo ens a chart an will, again? ee fr t ou ne ab f rtu teller op uf fo st e at Th th t drive as w o What g glass: “D no amine other h a magnifyin goes on to ex r ug lle ro te th e cident it un ac rt r The fo re 51, as a ca y face shape ar when you’ , including m ye es e ur th at fe in y m er , areas of ite d to a ca re 'ti ng,' w el l su might occur.” rs ea y (b ro ad up pe r m ); er re ca t ha w of ention and though no m rs (prograde and my finge ; s) be lo (good 45

and Heaven, Earth e the lines of r character” our palm, I se aspects of you ◉ “From y presents three Man, which re

EN BY STEPH

E. WEBER BY SARAH S E G A M I , GEORGE

GRAPEVINE The people behind Kang’s Noodle House have brains – and it’s not the thought behind their sleek design we're talking about. They literally have brains, and they’re going fast: according to the manager, over half of their customers order the “Brain Flower,” a soft pork cranium on a plate. Our take? Not bad. We would’ve totally finished our plates… if it weren’t for the image of a carefully presented brain in front of us. NM

LY L I

Do we have dirty minds or is everything just laden with suggestion? This month has seen the arrival of not one, but two new eateries playing on sexual innuendos: Beijing Bangers, a sausage startup supplying Slow Boat’s brunch with, well, bangers, and The Meatball Company (See page 55), whose not-so-innocent slogan is #EATYOURBALLS. Elsewhere, openings are more likely to be expansions than flagships – we hear Melissa has plans to expand her Juice by Melissa shop to Shunyi, while the new Pizza Express in Raffles City is imminent (see colossal sign on fourth floor for reference). Menus are expanding too: Agua’s new Infinity Brunch is even more infinite than before, and Jing-A has launched its Brewer’s Brunch (in case your taste is a little more beergarita than mimosa). Speaking of brewers, Beijing’s got ‘em, and now they’re finally collaborating. Last month, Great Leap, NBeer, Slow Boat, Arrow Factory, Jing-A and Panda put their beer brains together to create a Belgian-style IPA in anticipation of Craft Beer Week. The special brew will be made available at all the breweries listed above for RMB35. The events kick off on June 7— we’ll see you there. NM

HOL E BY

O F F T H E B E AT E N P L AT E

IM A G

NIBBLES

> Available at Kang ’ s Noodle House ( 康

二姐串串香 ), RMB12 Mon-Thu 11.30am-

2.30pm & 5-12pm, Fri-Sun 11.30am12pm; Yard 34, Sanlitun Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南甲 34 号院 ; 64156671

H E A D -TO - H E A D / 7-ELEVEN WESTERN FARE

VER SUS 7-Eleven Hamburger

7-Eleven Chicken Wrap

牛肉芝士汉堡 Available at 7-Eleven, RMB9.8

黑椒鸡柳卷饼 Available at 7-Eleven, RMB7.5 FIRST IMPRESSIONS

This is a microwaveable burger, so yeah – not good.

There’s a picture of vegetables of the outside. If 7-Eleven is trying to push this as healthy, we’re not buying it.

AFTER MICROWAVING

Sweat. Can burgers sweat? There’s water condensing on the inside of the package. The bread is soggy, the cheese is just melted yellow plastic, the meat clearly manufactured chemicals. No. Just no.

TASTE

Oh god. Did the wrap just go… flaccid?

Surprisingly not atrocious, but that might just be because we ate the burger first. Only two bites' worth of chicken though.

VERDICT

pic by Zach Hoy

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The burger may technically have more, uh, “meat,” but the chicken wrap wins for sheer tolerability. NM

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

T H E Y SA I D I T, W E R E A D I T

BA RT I SA N S

Annie’s

This month: Xiao Biar, owner and co-founder NBeer Pub

The pizza is good. The pizza is the only thing that’s good.

I went there with friends for a birthday. The owner hosted our birthday party. It was very nice. Thumbs up for the creamed mushroom soup!

Too much gravy on the lasagna. It took me a tremendous time to digest it. I had that for lunch and didn’t feel hungry until 10pm.

Not even free ice water? What? Where’s the hospitality? I’m speechless.

N E WS B I T E S

China to Increase Antarctic Krill Fishing

Sperm whales have something called ’baleen‘ – straw-like tendons between their upper and lower jaws that filter ocean water out of the swarms of krill swimming into their mouths. Now, if China has anything to say about it, there’ll be krill headed to our mouths too. Last month, China announced plans to expand its arctic fishing for krill, claiming that the teeny crustaceans will be used for food and medicine. That said, this may all be conjecture. Opponents of the plan say krill are the lifeblood of the Antarctic food chain and that any drastic increases in fishing will need approval from the Antarctic Conservation Commission, the area’s de facto governing body comprised of 25 nations. But if all goes well, you might soon see the tiny prawns on a menu near you – provided the Commission grants China its license to krill.

IMAGE BY HOLLY LI

Ever wondered what kids these days think of some of Beijing’s long-standing foodand-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: Annie's, Beijing's favorite take-out Italian.

What’s on tap? Where to start!? Every day the number goes up. In our original location in Huguosi, at least one new batch of beer is created every single day. We brew just about every style of beer out there – over 100 and counting. For instance, not too many brewers here [in Beijing] make sour ales, but we’ve made them all: Irish, German and Belgian style sours. I love sour ale, I’m obsessed! What sets you apart from other craft brewers? That’s a good question. The obvious answer, is that NBeer is the first genuinely Chinese craft brewer on the Mainland. And of course, by ‘Chinese’ I mean, from the brewers through to the bar staff, we’re 100 percent Chinese staffed, operated and owned. There are no foreigners involved. How did you become involved in the craft beer world? I’ve been running bars in Beijing since 1999. In 2004, I went to a culinary exhibition in Shanghai, that featured a ‘beer section.’ Most of the beer on offer was either Belgian or German, all the standard brands; I remember clearly, amid all these big colorful commercial promotions, there was one sad little booth with two people stood behind it, showcasing a few bottles of American craft beer. I tried one of their beers [Red Seal Ale] and it just blew me away. I couldn’t believe beer could taste this good! Immediately I decided to sign a contract with them to sell the beer in my bar [Pass By Bar, Nanluoguxiang, Gulou]. What would you recommend new customers try first? The first thing you have to do at NBeer, is ask to try the latest, freshest brew. Then, work your way back towards the classics. Our aim is to encourage Chinese people to widen their tastes and try new beers. SG

> NBeer Pub, B1-625, Tower 6, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路 8 号三里屯 SOHO6 号商场 B1-625 (136 8330 8384)

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E AT & DRINK | FE AT URE

THE MSG MYTH The Truth Behind Monosodium Glutamate Hysteria by No e l l e Ma t e e r

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Restaurants in the West have thoroughly embraced the organic food trend. American soup-and-salad megachain Panera Bread, for example, recently announced that it would remove all food additives from its recipes. Meanwhile, Chinese cooks on the streets of Beijing are continuing happily with their MSG usage. Sort of. “We use a little MSG,” a cook tells us as he grills chuan’r in a hutong shop just off Dongzhimen. The shop owner promptly intervenes. “No, we don’t use any MSG. None at all,” she says, casting a sour glance at my notebook. It appears MSG hysteria has worked its way east. While Moka Bros and Tribe will glady share their antiadditive stances, Western-style joints aren’t the only ones championing the anti-MSG cause. Local favorites Mr. Shi’s Dumplings and Baihe Vegetarian also pride themselves on avoiding the artificial additive. But what is this thing we’re scared of, and why are we so scared of it? Just how bad is it? Are we all going to die? We are all going to die, but probably not from MSG, says Dr Adam Williams, a doctor and allergist who has published findings on the substance in the medical journal Clinical and Experimental Allergy. “I think there is unnecessary hysteria among many that MSG is unhealthy or causes adverse health effects in people,” he says. MSG is an acronym for monosodium glutamate, but in Chinese, it’s known as wei jing, or “essence of flavor.” To break it down – literally, into molecules – MSG is the salt form (hence the white powder) of glutamate, a naturallyoccurring type of non-essential amino acid commonly found in items such as tomatoes. In 1908, Japanese scientist Ikeda Kikunae became the first person to isolate the substance and later market it – sparking a food revolution whose impact we still feel, and taste today (or some of us, at least). Here’s how it works: The flavor enhancement doesn’t take place in the cooking. Rather, it takes place on our tongues. MSG makes our taste receptors extra sensitive to umami, a name for the fifth taste – after salty, sweet, sour and bitter – coined by Kikunae in reference to the meaty deliciousness found in seaweed. As such, MSG first made it big in Japan, where cooks and housewives added it to ramen broth. The additive soon spread to China and, not long after, the West. In the 1940s, the US government used it to enhance meals for soldiers fighting in World War II. MSG, officials reasoned, could boost morale. Yet it was Westerners who first became wary of the foreign substance. In 1968, Chinese-American doctor Robert Ho Man Kwok wrote a letter to the New England Journal of Medicine, linking MSG to a range of allergic reactions. According to Dr Kwok, eating out in MSG-friendly Chinese restaurants led to headaches, palpitations and dizziness, later leading to the term “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome.” As absurd as it sounds, this “syndrome” is still listed on the US National Institute of Health’s directory of diseases, even though repeated scientific studies have failed to conclude that it’s MSG that causes these reactions. Food scholars have since argued that 60s-era anti-MSG sentiment in the US had more to do with ethnocentrism and wariness toward foreign cuisines than scientific concern. Today, the anti-MSG movement is more of a health-food marketing ploy – and it’s working. Xin Baoguo, head chef at Xi’an Mingchi, a Shaanxistyle noodle-and-roujiamou restaurant in Beijing, has

witnessed these changes in public attitude up close. “From the media, people have heard it’s bad,” he says. “But we’ve been using it for years and nothing’s happened.” Ma Yingping, a chef at a Xinjiang-style restaurant down the road from Xin’s, also defends the additive. “As long as it’s a controlled amount of MSG, it’s not going to hurt your body whatsoever,” she says. Experiments on MSG have yielded mixed results, and therefore, science has not been able to definitively mark the additive as bad. Even after President Richard Nixon ordered the US Food and Drug Administration to officially review all food additives, nothing of medical concern was found. At the bottom of the National Institute of Health’s Chinese Restaurant Syndrome page, it reads: “There have been many studies since then that have failed to show a connection between MSG and the symptoms some people describe.” Dr Williams is the author of one such study. While he believes there is “sufficient evidence” that there are certain “sensitive people who may experience headaches, migraine attacks, flushing reactions, or abdominal symptoms after eating MSG,” he says most of us have little reason to worry. “For the rest of us who seem to tolerate MSG without these reactions,” he says. “I do not see any convincing evidence that there are serious hidden consequences or long-term risks from the occasional consumption of MSG in moderation.” So, is this public hysteria all bullshit? Some defenders of our magical flavor powder say that if MSG is indeed bad for our health, then we’d feel its affects after eating other umami-rich foods like tomatoes, cheese and seaweed. Even a mother’s breast milk contains high levels of umami. But in China, MSG is more than an issue of nutrition. Just a few years before Dr Kwok first complained about Chinese food in America, China was in the midst of crippling famine. MSG was seen as a way to make the food that people could find more palatable. “Before, people didn’t earn that much, so they didn’t get to choose whether or not to be healthy,” says Head Chef of Huakai Vegetarian Restaurant, Zhang Caoyou. Now, it’s different. “We focus on ingredients, not MSG,” he says proudly, pointing a to plaque that reads “Beijing Healthy Lifestyle Restaurant.” Xin, on the other hand, disagrees. “To all kinds of Chinese food, MSG is essential,” he says as he whips up a bowl of biangbiang noodles. “It’s essential, it’s crucial, it’s not to be missed!” Today, the choice is ours. Science has failed to make a consistent link between MSG and sickness, although there has been anecdotal evidence that certain people may react to it. Out of all this controversy and rumor, there’s really one thing we can conclude for sure: Xin’s noodles are damn good. █

味精

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FIESTA TEX-MEX La Revolucion de Xindong Lu by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

For too long, Heaven Supermarket has enjoyed a sinister monopoly over Xindong Lu’s Tex-Mex scene. To be fair – and in the interest of full disclosure – we can’t actually remember if the food there is any good. Perhaps our memories of late-night nachos were suppressed in a subconscious act of selfpreservation. Or maybe we were inebriated. But if Heaven’s food is anything like its clientele, it would have been instantly forgettable and covered in a thin layer of grease. It matters not. Because after months of teasing (we first spotted the sign well before Christmas), Fiesta Tex-Mex has opened its doors. Inside we find an airy subterranean setting of light wood surfaces, scenes of cowboy life and imitation longhorn skulls. Hanging wicker lampshades above each table are a nice touch, as is the rather believable faux cactus. Fiesta’s interior is well done. But we should not ignore a defining characteristic — its size. Seating up to 150 diners, this is arguably Chaoyang’s most ambitious hospitality project since its owners opened the equally huge Hacker-Pschorr Brauhaus next door (which can, incidentally, send German-style brews across if tequila-based cocktails don’t tickle your taco). Should the duo attract enough custom, their shady sunken terrace could become one of the summer’s finest al fresco finds. The food at Fiesta is certainly good 5 0 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Price RMB100-150 a head Who’s Going Sanlitun cowboys, subterranean burritomunchers Good For Meat wrapped in carbs

enough to give them a fighting chance. After ordering from an iPad menu (but of course), we are presented with some hearty dips — a feta-topped guacamole and chunky tomato salsa (RMB48 each), both of which are excellent. They are followed by a tortilla soup (RMB26), which sees strips of chicken and tortilla swimming in a warming broth, enlivened by radish and lime. But chef Adam Puetzfeld excels himself with the meat-heavy mains. His deepfried burritos with chicken, salsa and cabbage (RMB73) are wonderfully crispy and, thankfully, not too greasy. The braised pork DIY burritos (RMB62) and chorizo quesadillas (RMB72) are also standouts. Both are well cooked and bursting with

tender meat. Our only complaint comes with the roast chicken (RMB92/184, half/whole), which is a little dry. But that’s not really what we’re here for. So, not only has Fiesta secured its place as the best Tex-Mex on Xindong Lu, but it could also give the city’s others a run for their pesos. And if your definition of a fiesta is closer to that envisaged by R Kelly (think “popping Cris[tal] on a daily base” and adding “a little juice to Tanqueray” — ‘Fiesta,’ 2000) then there is more good news — an adjoining club of the same name is set to open shortly. Daily, 11am-11pm; Building 3, 12 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路 12 号 3 号楼 (5323 5399)

RESTAUR A N T S | E AT & DRINK

MEAT AND WINE In with the In-Crowd by St e p h e n G e o rg e , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

The idea of a ‘private kitchen’ does not strike us as particularly novel. Most kitchens – unless you happen to live in shared accommodation [hello college students!] – are by definition private. So, it is a relief when Iris Lam, manger of newly opened private kitchen, Meat and Wine, tells us that Meat and Price Wine is definitely 200RMB per person, not a private minimum group of eight kitchen. Who’s Going “That’s of course Great nights ‘in’ with the definition some your closest friends people will choose Good For to refer to us by, Friends of friends of but we don’t like to friends think of ourselves in that way. We’re a small restaurant for friends and friendsof-friends.” Owned and operated by a group of likeminded long-time friends and business associates, the not-a-private-kitchen private kitchen is something of an unusual concept within Beijing’s restaurant scene currently. “We don’t take bookings off of the street, you have to get to know us first,” explains Iris. And while that might sound like something

of an exclusive club, in actuality Meat and Wine is nothing if not welcoming. Walk in and at once feel you like you’re entering a friend’s house (albeit a rich friend, with a cool pad and exceptionally good taste in wine). The atmosphere is warm and inviting. The decor is stylish in a thoroughly unpretentious way (Destiny’s Child on the speakers? We’ll take it), and the hosts genuinely gregarious and fun to be around. The compact space is split into two with a dividing curtain separating the intimate dining area (seats approximately 12) and the well-stocked front bar (seats approximately six). Bookings are reserved for groups only; you take the kitchen, not a single table. The chef prepares a new menu each day, based on fresh ingredients sourced locally where possible, while each course is served with a different, expertly-selected wine (believe us when we say these guys really know their wine). We begin our meal with a truly standout bacon-flavored salty pumpkin soup, followed by a delicious tender steak, marinated codfish and delicate Cantonese-style beef for the mains, and rich, flavorsome homemade macarons and fresh strawberry pannacotta for dessert. All of which is served with a

dazzling assortment of vintage red, white and sparkling French wines. “We want to create something special and memorable,” Iris tells us. “We’re not doing this for profit. It’s more of a hobby. We’re doing it because we love entertaining, hosting friends and having great nights.” The philosophy is reflected in the prices (RMB200 for five courses, wine is extra), which appears, to us at least, as artificially low (especially considering the high-quality of the food on offer). “We cover our costs and nothing more,” Iris explains. “If you invited your friends over to your house for dinner, you wouldn’t try to make a profit, so why should we?” Indeed. > Sanlitun; for more details, make friends with the right people

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Price RMB 60-100 per person Who’s Going Fangirls, anyone who owns a selfie stick Good For Trying to understand our modern, depraved civilization

J DA XIA Stick to the Day Job by No e l l e Ma t e e r

J Da Xia is the first official Jay Chou themed restaurant to open in the Mainland and it is a disaster of pop-star proportions. As we enter, we’re given a Chinese menu – understandable, this being China and all – but when we ask politely if they have an English menu, the response is a curt “no.” Fine, OK – but then the waiter leaves and proceeds to ignore us for at least 10 minutes. Again, fine if it’s busy, but it’s not. It’s empty. When we finally get their attention, they seem uninterested in our questions about the food. The menu suggests they offer a rather standard mix of cuisines from around China, with no particular gastronomical theme. This is something that only works if the food is really good. It’s not. The waiter brings us our dessert first, a hot red-bean porridge (RMB25), presumably so it can be cold by the time we get around to it. We then munch on plain chicken wings (RMB58), whose lack of flavor is further insulted by the dry limes placed beside them, and chunks of fatty pork (RMB68), which are decent overall, but bizarrely accented with two totally unseasoned boiled eggs. The most palatable of the dishes is a bowl of Shaanxi-style noodles (RMB29), the kind you can probably get for much cheaper and much better at a noodle shop on your street. But you’re not here for the food, are you? You’re here for Jay Chou, whose pretty popstar face is projected on the wall in the form of a concert film. Watch him dance as he wears a magenta blazer – watch 5 2 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

him dance as fireworks shoot off in the background – watch him take a break from dancing with a soulful piano ballad – watch him return triumphantly to dancing with a mob of identical background dancers. You better believe there is Jay Chou merchandise for sale. Now we don’t recommend you avoid J Da Xia. We recommend only that you reflect on your personal level of admiration for the star before you visit. In short, how far would you go for Jay Chou? Would you take the subway all the way to Joy City? Would you navigate your way past milk-tea shops and slow-moving families to the sixth floor? Would you then, upon your arrival, order overpriced food from cold, unhelpful wait staff? If your answer is yes, then be his guest. Daily 10am-10pm; Sixth floor, Chaoyang Joy City, 101 Chaoyang Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳北路 101 号朝阳大悦城 6F

CASALINGO Talking our Language by Q i a o Z h i

impressive, laid back – dare we say it, familystyle – authentic Italian eatery would be on everyone’s list of go-to restaurants. Like all good restaurants, there’s an obvious confidence at work here: The

Long gone are the days when hotel chains dominated Who’s Going Western dining Business people options in Beijing. people in the know, Today, you can’t weekending familes move for high-end Good For stand-alone Italian, Pretension-free, French and (gasp!) high-end lifestyle even German aficionados restaurants, leaving places like the Marriott – a true bulwark of Western cuisine in faraway lands – somewhat overlooked. Which, in the case of the JW Marriott Beijing Central’s Casalingo Italian restaurant, is a crying shame (metaphorically speaking). Let’s cut straight to it. This place is good. It’s not as fancy as places like Opera Bombana or as intimate as Mercante. But had the JW Marriott Beijing Central been located in Sanlitun or (impossible to think now, but give it 20 years) Gulou, this Price

RMB150-RMB200

decor is minimal and the ambience friendly and relaxed. This is not a place that feels the need to remind you constantly of its credentials (even the wine list comes with a neat color-coordinated matrix so non-wine experts – just about most people, if they’re honest – can easily pair interesting new wines with their selected dishes). Take the restaurant’s broad selection of pizzas. As is befitting of a former La Pizza chef Luca Nania the pies are among the very best available in Beijing. We try the four cheese, made with a delicious salty Italian blue cheese among others (RMB118) and served on a thin crispy crust. It’s a deceptively simple arrangement, yet it left us thoroughly impressed. The biggest draw though, is the octopus salad (RMB98, see picture). Served and prepared in a traditional Sicilian style (head chef Nania was born and raised on the isle), the octopus is absolutely bursting with flavor. Large and meaty – one tentacle is roughly the size of a baby’s arm – it is quite a departure from the usual pencil-thin octopus found in typical Chinese seafood dishes. Daily 11am-11pm; 18 Xuanwumen Wai, Xicheng, 1F, JW

Marriott Hotel Beijing Central 北京西城区宣武门外大街 18号北京珠三角JW万豪酒店一层 (6391 6361)

ANDY'S CRAFT SAUSAGE

Price RMB40-60 for bagel sandwiches, RMB 25-45 for drinks Who’s Going Foreigners, of the

Packin’ Some Meat

Anglo-Saxon variety Good For

by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Breakfast, curing

IMAGE BY HOLLY LI

hangovers

Andy is a simple man with a simple store. When the chengguan took his fridge one day, he shrugged. “I was considering letting them just keep it, actually,” he said. “The fridge is mostly a display case. The money’s in the freezer. Andy does not literally keep money in his freezer. But he might as well – it houses his beloved craft sausages, which have propelled his small delivery-only business into a brickand-mortar location, opened recently. Granted, it has neither many bricks nor much mortar. The tiny shop is more of a deli counter than an eatery. Still, it’s a total

sausagefest – and we mean that in both senses of the word. When we arrive, a group of nearly 10 expat bros spill out of the shop’s confines onto the pavement. What they order, of course, is sausage. We do, too. We get the most popular menu item, the sausage, egg and cheese bagel (RMB39), as well as the lox sandwich (RMB45) and the cheese bratwurst (RMB30). As solid as the lox sandwich is – and it kills us to say this because Andy arranges his onions and capers to make a smiley-lox-face bagel – we have to admit that the sausages steal the show. They have just the right amount of fat and savory seasonings. It’s not

called Andy’s Craft Sausages for nothing. When we speak with the man himself (over sausage bagels, naturally), he seems tired from all the catering and deliveries he’s been doing lately. But even with a packed schedule and chengguan threats on his tail, Andy’s far from feeling toasted. After all, if he couldn’t take the heat, he’d have gotten out of his (incredibly small, South Sanlitun) kitchen. Tue-Sun, 8am-7.30pm; 201, Bldg 29, Nan Sanlitun

(opposite the northwest corner of Yashow Market) 南三里屯29号楼201

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E AT & DRINK | RESTAUR A N T S

Uptown Funky Chicken by No e l l e Ma t e e r

The hallway of Tongli Studios on Sanlitun ‘Dirty’ Bar person Street doesn’t smell Who’s Going good. It doesn’t drunk people, sober look good either, to people who feel out of be honest. It’s not place a building complex Good For known for chic upscale drunk food, if eateries or highthat’s a thing end boutiques (at least not anymore), nor does it have the draw of its better-lit, better-kept neighbors. Rather, its hallway plays host to a set of stairs you probably only ever stumble down after a sloppy night out at Kokomo. This being the epicenter of late-night boozy pandemonium, we’re pleasantly surprised to discover DAFA. The new Korean restaurant’s entrance sits adjacent to eyeroll-worthy Cheers Bar, but once safely inside the confines of its slick, whitewashed rooms, we forget the atrocities witnessed outside. DAFA offers solid Korean fare in a space Price

RMB50 – RMB100 per

IMAGE BY HOLLY LI

DAFA

that might fit better in a more upscale complex. What was once depressingly dank brick concrete on the walls outside DAFA has been painted white inside. The owner has created a chic space to the tune of hippified grunge, painting street-art style messages on the walls himself. (Our favorite? One that reads: “WE LOVE THIS FUCKING DIRTY TOWN.”) That said, it’s not too classy, as evidenced

Open 24 hours; Second Floor, Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Hou Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (138 1158 1196)

GREEN SHADE Tranquil Hutong Haven by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Price RMB120 per person set menu, à la carte menu launching soon Who’s Going People who got lost on the way to Dali Courtyard Good For Quiet dinners, adding another hutong Yunnan restaurant to your list

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by the massive “Open 24 Hours” sign on one of the windows. While we’re merely visiting for after-work dinner, we see evidence of a party spot to come: a stage outfitted with DJ equipment, liquor bottles on the shelf and a wide-open space for hoodlums to hang out by the bar. Owner Lu Shao, who’s promoted bar and club in the past, has bigger plans than feeding drunk revelers at 3am – he plans on throwing parties. Until then, we’re here for the food: goodvalue Korean classics like barbecued pork (RMB48-58), kimchi soup (RMB32) and four flavors of fried chicken (RMB68, yes, fried chicken is in the “Korean classics” category now). The fried chicken could use some more work, and the fries are flavorless. But we genuinely enjoy our massive Korean hot pot (RMB128) with slabs of melting cheese on top – and we’re sober. That means it’s even better when drunk, right? In its Tongli Studios context, we predict DAFA’s walls won’t be pristinely white for long. But as anyone who’s ever driven a new sports car in the rain (not us) could tell you, that shit’s gonna get beat up anyway. And that’s OK, because, otherwise, what’s the point of having it in the first place?

What is it with charming Yunnan restaurants in the hutongs of Gulou these days? Why are they always housed in cute courtyards? And why are said courtyards always in Gulou? These questions and more shall remain unanswered (for the moment). We can, however, definitively say one thing about the trend: We don’t hate it. Green Shade is the latest Yunnan joint to crop up just north of Gulou Dong Dajie, in what has lately become a turf war fueled by grilled goat cheese and mint tofu salad. Yun Er Small Town and Southern Barbarian are around the corner, and even closer looms the threat of Dali Courtyard, Green Shade's older, better-known neighbor, found just seconds’ walk away. While there’s no connection between the two restaurants, they are undoubtedly similar. Both have unassuming hutong

exteriors, charming indoor spaces and flavorful Yunnan dishes. The main difference, at the moment, is Green Shade’s overall aura of serenity. We’re not calling Dali Courtyard stressful by any stretch of the imagination, but on the Wednesday night of our Green Shade visit, Dali Courtyard is packed, if not overflowing. Green Shade, on the other hand, is quiet – save for the calming sounds of a bubbling fountain and the sort of zenlike music soundtrack favored by hotel spas. While Green Shade primarily serves Yunnan food, owner Robin Yao describes his gastronomic vision as “greater Chinese, Yunnan, and Thai food together – all in a Yunnan style.” This comes in the form of a set menu (RMB120 per person) featuring, among others, Shandong-style fried lotus roots seasoned with Yunnan spices, and a Thai papaya salad (blisteringly spicy, consider yourself warned). Otherwise, the food is more classically Yunnanese, and therefore not much different from what you’d have at any of the other 43 (okay, 10) Yunnan restaurants in Gulou. But why need it be? If it works, don’t fix it. And if it doesn’t work… well, we wouldn’t be writing this review. Daily 11m-10pm; 1 Bei Xiawazi, Xiao Jingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 安定门内大街分司厅胡同北下洼子1号 (64553956)

MEATBALL COMPANY Balls Out by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Somewhere in the bowels of New Jersey, there’s a pimply, perhaps overweight 15-year-old grabbing a meatball sub after school. There are Italian-American mothers whipping up meatballs for sons with names like Vince and Frank, and there are grandmas still prepping a tray of whopping hoagies as they flip on the TV for Sunday football. We’re all familiar, perhaps too familiar, with American fast food chains. But what about the rest of American comfort food? What happens now that the whole world is saturated with fatty beef patties and cheap fries? In short, can Americans be hip again? In the words of Mr Obama himself: Yes, yes they can. In fact, it’s hard to imagine anywhere more hip than The Meatball Company. The place was launched by Micku and Max, Venezuelan-Americans by way of New Jersey. You’ve probably seen Max behind the DJ booth at hot spots like Migas and Dada. Micku, on the other hand – who is the brains behind the recipes and decor – is a professional skateboarder by trade (we weren’t kidding about them being cool). Together, the two have created a charming, thoughtful space with bad-to-the-bone balls. The Baller Pad, as they like to call it. It’s a ballsy move. Meatball subs aren’t a tradition people outside the Northeast United States are familiar with, let alone people outside the Western Hemisphere. But an explanatory approach starts with the menu. Using dry-erase pens on laminate, we circle our pick of meat (classic beef, chicken, pork or veggie), style (skillet or sub) and sauce (chunky tomato, creamy mushroom, nutty pesto or what is listed as “monthly mystery – live a little”), for a total of RMB40. We then choose pasta pomodoro (RMB20) and mac-n-cheese balls (RMB25, yes, mac-ncheese balls, we recommend). Herein lies the challenge. This entire ballthemed restaurant could fall into the trap of

being gimmicky – people could visit, make a few balls jokes and then forget about it. But it doesn’t. And that’s because the meatballs are damn good. Our beef balls come smothered in a generous helping of tomato sauce – Micku’s Italian grandmother’s old recipe – that spill out of the bun onto the vinyl-record-turnedplate below (did we mention Max is a DJ?). Melted mozzarella cheese lies on top. Our chicken comes covered in pesto, and our mac-n-cheese balls come balls deep in rich marinara. The brownie balls are probably the best balls we’ve ever had in our mouths: rich brownies covered in white chocolate covered in crushed M&M’s covered in vanilla ice cream. God bless those Americans. This is why The Meatball Company works – it’s food you’ll want to eat again and again. (Or drink – we’ll be back for the sangria pitchers, RMB120, too.) It’s also a space you’ll want to return to. Chill AF 90s rap tunes spill out of the shop into the surrounding hutong (did we mention Max is a DJ?). We were skeptical that a ball-themed restaurant might be a bit too single-minded, but the decor, subs and genuinely delicious sauces make for a well-rounded dining experience. (You knew we’d end on another ball pun, right?) Mon-Sat, noon-8pm; 27 Dashibei Hutong, Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡同 27 号 WeChat: @themeatballcompany

Price

RMB40-80 per person, RMB20-40 for drinks Who’s Going All the cool kids Good For Forgetting you’re in Beijing, balling

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1 Rd

TIAGO HOME KITCHEN

ua nW

Fa ng y

Jiuxianqiao Rd

Jia

EUDORA STATION

Jia

PADDY O'SHEA'S

Jiangtai Rd PARKSIDE BAR & GRILL

FRANK'S

W Rd AT TRIO Jiangtai PLACE

IRISH VOLUNTEER

4 PARK 17

Hujialou

Dongdaqiao

RED BOWL

E 3rd Ring Rd

Dongdaqiao Street

Chaoyang N Street

TIM'S TEXAS BBQ

Jinhui Rd BBG RESTAURANT AND BAR

STELLA ARTOIS draft beer promotion

STELLA ARTOIS bottle beer promotion

8 FEZ BAR | J4 5pm-late, 6F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun North Street, Chaoyang (5208 6138)

1ST FLOOR | J4 Sun-Thu 11am-2am, Fri-Sat 11am-4am, 6F 1/F Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Back Street, Chaoyang (6413 0587)

BOTTEGA FRATELLI SALVO | K4 6pm-midnight, 18 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang (6416 1752)

THE TREE | I4 12am-2am, A4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang (6592 6290)

THE DEN | J6 All day, A4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang (6592 6290)

BBG RESTAURANT AND BAR | B7 Daily 10am-2am, RE108, World City, 9 Jinhui Road, Chaoyang (8590 6364)

HOOTER'S | I6 Daily 11am-1am, Rm. 201, Bldg 1, China View Building, Chaoyang (6585 8787)

EUDORA STATION | A2 9am-2pm, 6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang (6437 8813)

HEAVEN | I4 Daily 11am-4pm, 14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang (6415 6513)

PARKSIDE BAR & GRILL | A3 9am- late, 6-9 Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang (6444 6555)

REVOLUTION | H6 Daily noon-1am, West side of Yashow, Gongti North Road, Chaoyang (6415 8776) MUST GUETTE | K5 11am-midnight, S2-11, 1/F, Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang (6417 8202) IRISH VOLUNTEER | C3 Daily 9am-2am, 311 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang (6438 5581)

DURTY NELLIE'S | N1 Daily 10am-2am, 1/B Liangmaqiao Flower Market, Chaoyang (6415 8776)

N 1 DURTY NELLIE'S

XL BAR AND RESTAURANT

BOTTEGA FRATELLI SALVO

ASSAGI

HEAVEN

FEZ BAR THE TREE 1ST FLOOR

BLUE FROG

FLAMME

MUST GUETTE

UNION BAR & GRILL

REVOLUTION

HOOTER'S

THE DEN

THE RUG FRANK'S PLACE AT TRIO | B3 Daily 24hrs, West of the Rosedale Hotel, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang (6437 8399) FLAMME | J5 11am-23pm, 3/F, S4-33 Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang (6417 8608)

ASSAGI | J4 11am-22pm, 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang (8454 4508)

UNION BAR & GRILL | J6 11am-22pm, 3/F, Taikoo Li South Bldg 5, 19 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang (64159117)

BLUE FROG | J5 Sun-Thu10am-12am, Fri-Sat 10am1am, S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, Taikoo Li, Sanlitun, Chaoyang (6415 4303, 6417 4030)

XL BAR AND RESTAURANT | I2 Daily 10-2am, 1-022 Shoukai Bojun Nanqu, Xindong Lu, Chaoyang (135 2128 5636, 137 1816 3522)

PADDY O'SHEA'S | F3 Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang (6415 6389)

TIM'S TEXAS BBQ | A6 Daily 9am-midnight, 2 Xiushui, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang (6591 9161)

TIAGO HOME KITCHEN | C1 11am-22pm, L173, 1/F Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang (8558 3892)

PARK 17 | B4 11.30am-23pm , Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang (6586 1889)

THE RUG | K7 10.30am -22pm, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang (6507 2342)

RED BOWL | D5 17.30pm-12am , Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, , Chaoyang (6597 8888)

STELLA ARTOIS BEER MAP 2015

9 M

SNAKE LIVEHOUSE Another Dimension, New Galaxy by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Price RMB25-RMB60 for cocktails Who’s Going Total fucking weirdos Good For Getting stupid drunk, having cocktails on one of the cheapest rooftops in town

Is it possible to feel nostalgic for things that once sucked? That’s what hipsters do, right? Turn something gauche into something new? We only ask because the decor at Snake Livehouse, the newest and weirdest club in Beijing, is reminiscent of a cheap 90s film set, albeit with pool tables and tattoo parlors to the side. And as horrible and tacky as that sounds – or, to be totally honest – as horrible and tacky as it is, we can’t help but like the place. Snake Livehouse is weird. Hell, it transports you to another dimension. Indication of this begins when you try to find it. The bar is located on the seventh floor of Yashow Market, which, yes, is indeed a construction site. We aren’t the only ones surprised by the location. In fact, a group of construction workers tell us repeatedly that there is nothing within the market’s plywood confines. But in the name of providing quality bar reviews to the people, we find another entrance and navigate our way upstairs. This is merely the first bizarre experience of the evening. Upon entering the bar, we’re greeted by the sounds of 00s-era pop (Christina! Heyoo!) punctuated by the drilling and hammering taking 5 8 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

place beneath us. The decor is eclectic to say the least – everything from tiki lights to a glass case displaying metal crosses to a photo of Jessica Alba with a tattoo she definitely doesn’t have. (And yes, we just read that list aloud in the voice of Bill Hader’s Stefon.) We order drinks just as weird as their surroundings: a sticky sweet punch called Summer Lovers (RMB45), and Tonight Do Not Go Home (RMB45). We don’t expect that latter one’s name to make any sense, and yet when we taste it, it suddenly does. It is an insanely strong vodka-whisky mix. Tonight, we Do Not Go Home. And so we sit, sipping cocktails and listening to what is now blaring techno on a white couch that is very much out of place in a room full of weird doodads. The whole experience is trashy, it’s cheesy and it’s, by all objective standards, not that good – and yet it’s fucking awesome. Just when you think glitz and ritz have spread their manicured, Starbucks-toting hands all over Sanlitun, a tattoo-parlorturned-livehouse-in-a-construction-site pops up, and the contrast is downright hilarious. We can’t imagine a better place to be drunk. There are some aspects of the venue worth legitimately appreciating sans irony: the rooftop, for one, on which you can look over the sidestreets around Yashow while sipping your Tonight Do Not Go Home, and the service. When we ask for directions to the exit, a staffer personally ushers us down seven levels of stairs and thusly releases us into the modern world of Sanlitun bars and shops, like British schoolchildren stepping out of a wardrobe from Narnia. Upon Yashow’s completion – July, if all goes to plan – Snake will host rock concerts. Until then, cherish this place, because it’s exactly the kind of good-deal, locally owned venue that’ll get forced out by a McDonalds and a Uniqlo in five years’ time. 7th floor, Yashow Market, 58 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 北京市朝阳区三里屯雅秀服装市场七层 (400 922 2991)

BA RS | E AT & DRINK

SOI BAOCHAO Khaosan Road Minus Morons by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

If you’ve never been to Bangkok’s Khaosan Road – don’t. Unless, that is, you hope to witness the last wisp of a bohemian dream being sucked through a beer tower, forced against a wall, and then shot in the back of the head with a ping-pong ball fired from a man’s vagina. There’s more culture in yogurt. Beijing has, mercifully, sheltered itself from such embarrassing interpretations of debauchery. By virtue of being landlocked (and bound by enforced laws), our city appeals to neither sunburned Englishmen in wifebeaters nor those Americans who make irritating whooping noises. Sanlitun Bar Street is the closest we’ve come to a northern stop on the Banana Pancake Trail. But it’s all rather civilized in comparison. Nonetheless, if Thai-themed Soi Baochao had been located anywhere near Beijing’s own miniKhaosan, it would have become instantly detestable. Bars serving alcohol in buckets are veritable moron magnets. Yet, here in the quiet northern reaches of Gulou’s Baochao Hutong, there’s something almost quaint about the idea. If one is surrounded by harmless hipster types (rather than multiple varieties of ‘bro’), is there anything wrong with drinking through straws from a large plastic receptacle? We would argue not. We would even say that, at RMB80 for a bucket of spirit-plus-mixer, it is a superbly economical way to get drunk. The bar’s manager, Van, is a generous free-pourer. As he holds

an upturned spirit bottle aloft for an unconscionably long period of time, we address a technicality. Soi is the Thai word for a side street branching off a larger one. Road-naming custom dictates that this hutong should actually be called ‘Soi Gulou Dongdajie.’ Or – given how far up Baochao it is – ‘Soi North Second Ring Road.’ Catchy. Van is still pouring, so there’s time for another quick clarification: this isn’t a new bar. Formally known as Cangku (unpronounceable for foreigners, apparently), Soi Baochao is actually celebrating its seventh anniversary this month. We were simply lured in by its new name. Phucket. It is only fair to give venues time to settle before review. Plus, we’re already here and the bucket is finally filled – almost entirely with rum. We take it for a stroll through the premises. The bar’s ground floor has something of a grungy, rock club vibe. There’s an arcade machine and tables of the foosball and pool varieties. Sure, we find a big Thai flag and the bar’s name appears in luminescent blue, all Thai-alphabet-style. But Soi Baochao isn’t pushing the theme too hard. Upstairs lies the real treat. Amid the roof’s beams and slopes, four cozy sofa areas await intrepid bucket-slurpers. With its low lighting and fabric partitions, the upper floor is exactly the sort of lofi drinking spot that Gulou excels in providing. Perhaps this is what Khaosan Road looked like before the idiots arrived. Daily 7pm-late; 10 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区宝钞胡同 10 号 (6401 1066)

Price

Singles for RMB20, buckets for RMB80, beers for RB15-40 Who’s Going Frugal revelers, postmodern backpackers Good For Kicking off your northto-south Gulou bar crawl

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COMMUNITY

COMMUNIT Y | EVENT

LOOKING BACK AT ART BEIJING Art Beijing celebrated its tenth year as the Mainland’s most influential art fair, as it returned to the National Agricultural Exhibition Center last month. Set over 25,000sqm and consisting of contemporary art, classical art and design, this year’s event attracted more than 80,000 visitors. Ninety-eight percent of the 140-plus galleries and organizations participating made sales over the three-day fair. Almost two-thirds of items came in between RMB100,000200,000, but some of the biggest sales were made at the Society of Entrepreneurs and Ecology (SEE) charity auction, held in conjunction with auction house Christie’s. The 23 donated artworks raised over RMB230 million for SEE’s ‘Billion Trees’ campaign.

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EVENT | COMMUNIT Y

AT BEIJING INTERNATIONAL BILINGUAL ACADEMY’S ANNUAL FAMILY FAIR On May 16, Urban Family headed over to the Beijing International Bilingual Academy’s ‘One Family - One Fair,’ where friends, family, staff and students enjoyed a fun-filled day of activities, games, music and food. We wanted to capture the good times and so – for a little extra amusement – we asked parents and kids to show us their favorite emoji faces. Here are our best picks of the bunch. Enjoy!

Our first issue Summer Camp Special Edition

Summer Camps Special Edition 夏令营特刊 Entrepreneurial Kids Workshop Let's Farm Field Trip 农耕季 Timber Lake West Camp 游美体验营

new y of our fr e e c o p a p u k e P ic pock t il y e v e n ts m a F n a U rb ! OUT NOW g u id e –

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U R B A N FA M I LY / W W W.U R B A N-FA M I LY.C O M /C I T Y/ B E I J I N G Part of That’s Beijing magazine, Urban Family is the go-to resource for international families living in Beijing. Specializing in events, our platform gives you a seasonal calendar of all the fun, healthy and family-friendly happenings in Beijing’s international community. Together with our interactive content and website, our kids’ clubs and family get-togethers connect urban families with the city and each other.

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STELLA ARTOIS URBAN MOMENTS Do you have party pictures to contribute? Send them to us at bjeditor@urbanatomy.com and we’ll run the best.

Intro FestIval BeIjIng 2015 @ Gtcpf Erqej Ckvà - Mcà 1

EVENTS WED JUNE 3

EAT/DRINK

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Nathan & Friends Nathan Borofka is an American folk/ indie musician with his roots planted throughout music history. He doo-wops, sha-bops and twangs like the pioneers before him, but brings his own personality to the stage. Both rhythmic and emotional, aggressive and heartfelt, Nathan and his band push and pull in every direction, delivering a new style of folk. >Price/time TBC; Salud Nanluoguxiang (see Listings for details) Gig: Invisible Anatomy Harnessing influences from across classical music, rock and jazz, as well as the dramatic arts, Invisible Anatomy are a chamber ensemble that collapses the notion of performance and composition being two separate processes. With their self-proclaimed goal of championing “music as a physical experience,” expect chamber music like you’ve never seen it before. > RMB60 (door), RMB50 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

THU JUNE 4

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Our Last Night Formed in 2004 in New England, Our Last Night hit No. 6 on the Billboard’s Top Heat-seekers with their debut album, The Ghosts Among Us. They have since secured their position in the US metal scene through a mixture of posthardcore and alternative rock (with some sprinkles of metalcore for good measure). > RMB220 (door), RMB150 (presale); 8pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

FRI JUNE 5

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: Movits! Movits! are a Swedish music group from Luleå. And in the true tradition of northeast Sweden, the group play a fusion of swing and hip-hop. Their memorablytitled album Äppelknyckarjazz was featured on the Colbert Report and the band’s unique sound has helped them gain popularity beyond their homeland. > RMB80 (door), RMB60 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

DJ: Yang Bing Join the party with Beijing underground dance music pioneer Yang Bing. While Resident Advisor claims that he is famous among Beijingers for his “fat bass, funky deep tech-house style,” we suspect that most of you will know him as the founder of infamous club White Rabbit. > RMB50 (free before 11pm); Lantern (see Listings for details) DJ: Santo Chino DJ Santo Chino presents ‘The Same As It Ever Was’ - a night of disco, funk and rock. All of it will be played on vinyl records and pumped through an analog rotary mixer because, like, digital is so 2014. > Free entry; Dada (see Listings for details)

JUNE 8-14

Beijing Craft Beer Week Have trouble deciding which Beijing brewery is your favorite? We know, it’s hard. Fortunately for Beijing boozers (brewsers?), the men and women behind your favorite craft breweries are teaming up to celebrate our city’s bangin’ beer scene – and that means one glorious week of specials and parties for all of us. Beer lovers will already know the six hosting breweries – Great Leap, Slow Boat, Jing-A, Arrow Factory, NBeer and Panda Brew – but they’ll also get the chance to discover more. Breweries from around China will attend, including Shanghai’s Boxing Cat Brewery. Better still, the breweries have teamed up to create a special craft beer that will be on sale at all six local breweries (until it runs out). But the week offers more than beer samples – check www.beijingcraftbeerweek.com for a list of events. > June 8-14, various locations, see www.beijingcraftbeerweek.com for details

EAT/DRINK

SAT JUNE 6

COMMUNITY

Beijing Improv Long-Form Performance Beijing Improv is China’s oldest and largest improvised theater organization. Its members come from around the world and have been trained in the best improv schools from New York, Chicago, California, the UK, France, New Zealand and more. Script-less long-form is a popular type of improv that uses audience suggestions to create an extended scene. Attendees never know what is in store but laughter and people shouting out ‘cock’ are both very likely. > RMB75, RMB65 (for members); 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE DJ: Air Max ’97 From the land down-under, DJ Air Max ’97 promises a thrilling and hypnotic night of open-minded, open-bodied dance. Intoxication, sway, wetness, vividness, dislocation, iridescence, kinesis, hypnotism, recursion, contrast, light and dark: this is what it is to experience Air Max ’97 (in a live sense). >RMB60; Dada (see Listings for details)

Gigs: A Tribute to Cui Jian Known as ‘the godfather of rock’ in China, Cui Jian has influenced the country’s modern bands and singers like no other. In this special tribute at MAO Livehouse, bands from across the country join forces to reenact Cui Jian’s classics in what promises to be a unique sluice of Chinese rock. > RMB70 (door), RMB50 (presale); 8pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings for details) Gig: Xiaojun Jazz Quartet One of the most successful musicians among the new generation of jazz guitarists, Xiaojun has long followed guitar legend John Abercrombie. He was later asked to join New York bass master Doug Weiss’ band to play at Falcon, one of the most renowned jazz bars in New York. > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@urbanatomy. com. For some details, see Listings.

DJ: Micky Zhang Local techno hero Mickey Zhang presents his monthly event, ‘Holding’. > RMB30 (Free before 11 pm); Lantern (see Listings for details)

JUNE 10

Izakaya!: A Hagaki Kitchen Takeover at Jing-A Taproom If you think craft beer only goes with burgers, then the guys at Jing-A are about to prove you wrong. They’re inviting Hagaki head chef Rob Cunningham for a onenight Kitchen Takeover on June 10, where he’ll be preparing Japanese-style pub grub. What exactly is Japanese pub grub, you ask? Expect everything from Hagaki’s classic salmon rolls to Japanese tonkatsu burgers to betcha-can’t-eat-just-one crispy river shrimp. The staff at Jing-A will be on hand to recommend pairings (Koji Red Ale + salmon rolls = crazy delicious). Be warned, however: Last time Jing-A held a Kitchen Takeover, it was packed. So make sure to grab your ticket (RMB100) in advance this time. > June 10, 7pm, RMB100. Jing-A Taproom, see listing for details

Gig: Hot Club of Beijing Tap your feet along to the gypsy jazz stylings of the Hot Club of Beijing. Following the tradition of Django Reinhardt, this is 50 percent Chinese, 50 percent French and almost entirely swing-orientated. > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9 pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

SUN JUNE 7

COMMUNITY

Workshop: DIY Aquaponics Workshop Ever wondered how goldfish and potatoes can live happily together in your apartment? As well as the environmental benefits of water consumption, aquaponics is a great solution for urban gardeners because it uses space efficiently and grows food very rapidly. Learn how at Culture yard. > RMB450 (with kit), RMB100 (without kit); reservation required cultureyard. typeform.com/to/rR2MBP; 4-5.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong,

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EVENTS

Dongcheng东城区石雀胡同10号

COMMUNITY

Comedy: Quinn Dahle Don’t miss the chance to catch Quinn Dahle, who has worked with names such as Robin Williams, Drew Carey, Tim Allen, Dane Cook, Dana Carvey, Norm McDonald and others. With appearances on The Tonight Show, Showtime, Comedy Central, Lopez Tonight and Carson Daly, Quinn is a smart, clean and witty stand-up comic with impeccable timing. Come discover why many told him he should do stand-up since he was a kid. > RMB180 (door), RMB150 (presale); 8 pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

THU JUNE 11

NIGHTLIFE

Gulou Double Decker Pbr and Live Beijing Music unite once more for a night of musical wonder. Thruoutin will rock Temple upstairs, with Mark Dwinell taking over Dada below. And that, people, is why it’s called Double Decker. > Free; Temple/Dada (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE Gig: Haozi Haozi’s music branches out like an invasive tree through genres such as postrock, folk and reggae. Playing solo since 2003, his song’s channel his evident interest in nature and freedom. Don’t worry, he’s not a naturist or anything. >RMB80 (door), RMB60 (presale); 8:30 pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

TUE JUNE 9

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: No Omega Four angelic young Swedish boys produce some pretty angry screamo/posthardcore music. Making their debut in China to support new EP Occupants, No Omega are the perfect way to get over Zayn’s departure from 1D. > RMB100 (door), RMB80 (presale); MAO Livehouse (see Listings for details)

EVERY SUNDAY

WIN We’ve got one pair of tickets to the Warlord Tour to give away. To win, tell us your who your favorite warlord is and why, to bjeditor@urbanatomy.com

Warlord Tour China was ravaged by fiendish warlords in the 1920s, and now you can immerse yourself in one of the most intriguing periods of Beijing’s history. With one of Newman Tours’ knowledgeable guides playing the role of a soldier of fortune, this walking tour will take you through some of the key sites in the capital’s past to uncover tales of the past, like how a bad foot helped the last Emperor ascend to the throne; and how the ‘Dog Meat General’ earned his name. > 7-9pm; RMB190 (adults) / RMB120 (children); also available as private tour from RMB260 (adults) / RMB190 (children). For more information visit www.newmantours.com, email info@newmantours.com or call 138 1777 0229.

NIGHTLIFE

COMMUNITY

The Secret of Priest’s Grotto: A Holocaust Survival Story - Talk with Chris Nicola In 1993, veteran caver Chris Nicola became one of the first Americans to explore Ukraine’s famous Gypsum Giant cave systems. Nowadays Chris Nicola spends most of his free time caving, being a public speaker, and exploring the story of how a group of Jews survived the Holocaust by living in a cave for over a year. > RMB50, RMB40 (for members); 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

Gig: Blackwater Former in 2009 Beijing’s premier Irish music band is back, complete with accordion, banjo, tin whistle, wooden flute and bodhran. What’s a bodhran? Why, it’s an Irish drum – great question. > Price TBC; Salud Nanluoguxiang (see Listings for details) Gig: A Tribute to Wong Ka Kui June 10 would have been the 53rd birthday of late Hong Kong music legend, Wong Ka Kui of the rock band Beyond.

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COMMUNITY Music: Basically Beethoven The Bookworm hosts Beijing’s only classical music open-mic night. Get involved or simply bask in the glory of some of Beijing’s best international classical musicians > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

FRI JUNE 12

NIGHTLIFE

DJs: Pixelord, Saburov and 813 Pixelord gave a stellar performance in Beijing last tear and now he’s back to invade your senses once more. All the way from Moscow, the artist otherwise known as Alexey delivers boombastic bass music with Saburov and 813 in support. > RMB80 (door); Dada (see Listings for details) Lantern Kollection Series DJs feature across two rooms in Lantern. It’s the best night out in Gongti. > RMB30 (free before 11pm); Lantern (see Listings for details)

Networking: Green Drinks Join Beijing’s green community for its informal drinks at a monthly meet-andgreet for those interested in environmental, social and development issues in China. > Free; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

WED JUNE 10

DJs: Soulier & Eagle I Stallian DJ, electronic musician and composer, Soulier, blends new and retro sounds, melodic vocals, and glitch deep beats. Eagle I Stallian, meanwhile, bring their heavy rock backgrounds to the electronic music world. What happens when you join them together? Who knows. > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

Gig: Tulegur, Ajinai & Mabang Mongolian rockers Tulegur and indie band Ajinai bring the great northern grasslands to Beijing. And from Guangxi, Mabang will mix modern sounds southwestern flavor. > RMB100 (door), RMB 70 (presale); 9pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings for details)

DJs: Fløøød & Christian Virant Two of the more interesting players on China’s electronic radar – Fløøød and Christian Virant of pioneering electronoise act FM3 – take to the hallowed booth at Dada. > Free; Dada (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE

Bands from across the city will gather to rework some of his classics, in tribute to an inspirational figure. > RMB80 (door), RMB60 (presale); 8pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings for details)

SAT JUNE 13

COMMUNITY

JUNE 12

Roska Roska first met Geeneus – the boss of London’s RinseFM – when the legendary pirate station started playing some of his early tracks. In 2009, the producer and DJ (real name Wayne Goodlitt) was asked to host his own weekly show – he’s been blasting out UK funky, grime and bass ever since. Roska’s production game is just as innovative. Through releases on Rinse’s own label (as well as the likes of Hotflush and Tectonic), Roska continues to carve out his own place in the funkier side of the UK’s bass spectrum. His booking in Beijing marks a genuine coup for Migas and the Street Kids crew. > RMB60; 10pm-late; The Bar at Migas (see Listings for details)

Workshop: Beginner’s Mahjong Workshop Mahjong is a game of skill, tactics and calculation. You’ll need plenty of strategy and, of course, a bit of luck. Learn the basics with local experts through real game experience. > RMB120, RMB40 (for members); 4-6 pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng东城区石雀胡同10号

NIGHTLIFE Gig: 3asic Touring to support his latest record, 3asic is a young producer from Nanjing making waves in the Chinese electronic underground. > RMB30; Dada (see Listings for details) DJ: Adriana Lopez

EVENTS

She’s Colombian, she’s fierce and she’s one of the most prominent South American techno artists worldwide. Adriana’s sets are displays of pure technique. > Lantern (see Listings for details)

ART

THU JUNE 18

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: The Iron Maidens The Iron Maidens is an all-female tribute band to, well, Iron Maiden. formed in LA in 2001. Expect the Maidens to play all the classic Iron Maiden hits, all while dressing and dancing just like the band. And here’s a bonus, for diehard Iron Maiden fans (albeit not diehard enough to have started a tribute band, evidently): the Iron Maidens even sometimes perform songs the original has not done live. >RMB380 (door), RMB280 (presale); 8pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

Festival: Rockland 12th Anniversary & Mushroom Festival 2015 Featuring artists from China, UK, US and France, this special night at Yugong Yishan features French Vialka, Alpine Decline, The Harridans, Bian Yuan and Late Troubles. > RMB100 (door), RMB80 (presale); 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

SUN JUNE 14

NIGHTLIFE

Gig: War of Ages Feeling angsty? US metal stars War of Ages are hitting Beijing with their violently melodic tunes. Formed in 2002, the band reached No. 5 on the Billboard hard rock charts with their seventh (yes, seventh) album Supreme Chaos. > RMB160 (door), RMB120 (presale); 9pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

ARTS Gig: Zoco Duo (Guitar and Oboe) Zoco Duo is an exciting ensemble in which Jacob Cordover (Spain/Australia) and Laura Karney (Spain/USA) bring together the diverse traditions of the oboe and guitar. From Baroque to Romantic, classical to contemporary, Europe to the Americas, Zoco Duo create an experience full of exotic sounds, musical textures and atmospheres. > RMB85; 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

Gig: Armor Force Founded in Beijing in 2013, Armor Force is one of the very few European-folkmetal bands in existence. The group combines heavy metal with traditional European instruments like the harp, windpipe and accordion. Enter their European fantasy world right here in Beijing. > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 8pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings for details)

FRI JUNE 19

ART

Movie: “Twittamentary” Documentary Screening and Discussion with the Director Attend a screening of Twittamentary, and experimental documentary about Twitter, and get the chance to discuss it with the director after. > RMB60, RMB40 for members; 7pm – 10.30pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng东城区石雀胡同10号东城区石雀胡同10号

TUE JUNE 16

COMMUNITY

Panel Discussion: Creativity in China In the panel discussion ‘Creativity in China: Igniting a culture of innovation and imagination’, three speakers each give 15-minute presentations answering the question: how can we cultivate a culture of creativity in China? All have encountered their own challenges and opportunities here – experiences they will share before questions are opened to the audience afterwards. > RMB70, RMB60 (for members); 7.30pm; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

WED JUNE 17

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Chinese Knots Class The Chinese built everything from the Wall thousands of years ago to the Ark in the movie 2012— so yeah, Chinese craftsmanship is pretty special. Turn your attention to knots at a special class and leave enlightened. > RMB20; 1.30 – 3.30pm; Room 904, E-tower school, Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang

NIGHTLIFE Gig: Byga Trio Get your berets ready as singer Byga transforms the traditional style of the French folk chanson. According to him, the historic genre is often lacking in energy, and so along with fellow Beijing musicians, he sings lighthearted songs accompanied by acoustic guitar and double bass. > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details) Gig: Soul Pollution The Shuffle, Mojo and Jungle Beats – blues band Soul Pollution is here to lead you through it all. The group’s mission is to transport you to Chicago with their bumpin’ blues. > Price to be announced; 10pm; Salud,

66 Nanluoguxiang (see Listings for details)

JUNE 20

Music: Round Eye Over the last four years, Round Eye have been terrorizing Shanghai audiences with a raucous live show that justifies their self-proclaimed title as “the sexiest, hairiest and loudest band in the land of China.” But now they’re eager to show Beijing their serious side with a show at School Bar to support the release of their eponymous debut album. “Someone said that Round Eye was a party rock band and that sent [frontman] Chachy into a rage,” explains saxophonist Peter Jackson. “We still have fun on stage,” the singularly-named Chachy promises. “But the party has to stop at some point. Now we have this record that exists apart from it.” School Bar can expect to hear the best from the album’s 17 tracks of saxdriven freak-rock. Familiar genres like grunge (‘Meat and the Boys’), doo-wop (‘Wait and See’) surf-rock (‘Suntan’) and free jazz (the ‘HeShoRishima’ series) are filtered through the Round Eye blender, emerging as something unique and utterly deranged. “We wanted to not only break out of the whole party band thing, but also try to reflect Shanghai’s colorful underbelly in a musical narrative,” Chachy explains. “I liked the idea of us always moving forward with our own sound and wanted to make a record like Captain Beefheart’s Trout Mask Replica or the earlier efforts by Butthole Surfers and Flaming Lips.” It’s an expansive disc that will do little to change their polarizing reputation. The group is surprisingly at ease with the divide, admitting that “some people hate us.” It hasn’t stopped Round Eye touring the country several times, broking bread with SMZB’s legendary punk frontman Wu Wei in Wuhan, and giving a support slot to their “brothers from another mother” – Bedstars. An ongoing goal for the group is to convince Beijing blues-punk institutions SUBS to join them on a North American tour. “Realistically, we’re never going to be accepted as a Chinese band so we’ve always had one eye to the West,” Chachy explains. “Local bands respect that.” Andrew Chin > RMB50 (or RMB80 with CD/RMB120 with LP); Support from Bedstars and Sucker; 8pm-late, School Bar (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE DJ: Kentaro Japanese DJ Kentaro takes on the night at Yugong Yishan with his wild mix of styles. The man has experience driving audiences batshit alongside famous chaos-makers Skrillex and Deadmaus. > RMB100 (presale), RMB150 (door); 9pm - late; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details) DJs: Funk Fever The crew returns with their signature brand of bump. Fresh jams, edits and remixes alongside classic funk, disco and old school hip hop with a touch of reggae/dancehall and rare grooves to put the bump in your rump, a glide in your slide and that dip in your hips. > RMB60; 10pm – late; Migas (see Listings for details) Gig: The Syndidate With their equipment still hot from last month’s INTRO, drum-and-bass stalwarts The Syndicate return to Dada with their full local crew. > RMB30; 10pm; Dada (see Listings for details) DJ: Absorbed Absorbed’s sound is state-of-the-art techno full of heavy bass-drums, sharp hi-hats and intelligent synthesizers, mixed and mastered in a way that’ll have you dancing for, like, ever. >RMB50 (free before 11pm); Lantern (see Listings for details) Gig: Pokemon Dad & Nakoma Hailing from Shenzhen, Pokemon Dad were forged by underground indie rock

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EVENTS

basement scenes of the States. Nakoma, meanwhile, mixes in math rock elements with a punk intensity. >RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

EAT/DRINK

Gig: Missy & The Four Guns The band is back with two guitars, one tambourine and several Canadians. > Price TBC; Salud, Nanluoguxiang (see Listings for details)

SAT JUNE 20

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Housing the Bar featuring Kyodai The mysterious Berlin-based producers regularly release under a variety of names for labels such as Compost, Odori, Om and Lovemonk, but they’ll be going by ‘Kyodai’ at Migas. They’ve had a strong run of releases since their debut on Freerange Records last year, with EPs supported by a host of top names. > RMB60; 10pm – late; Migas (see Listings for details) Gig: Mouse On the Keys Japanese jazz-rock band Mouse On the Keys pits classical music against 80sand-90s-era hardcore. > RMB150 (door), RMB120 (presale); 9 pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

THU JUNE 25

NIGHTLIFE

DJ: Pan Daijing Shanghai’s first lady of aggro-techno brings her hard-edged industrial sound to Beijing after years in Berlin’s famed electronic music underground. > RMB30 (door); Dada (see Listings for details)

FRI JUNE 26

NIGHTLIFE

DJs: BEEHIVE with Kaize, X.L.F., and Lio Lio The BEEHIVE party combines house music gems with visual effects by VJ Sonar.lj. > Free; Dada (see Listings for details)

DJs: DoHits! DoHits! brings a new live set to Dada by Beijing’s Howie Lee, recording for RBMA radio. Also expect a line up featuring Billy Starman, Guzz, Veeeky and more. > RMB50 (door); Dada (see Listings for details)

DJs: Hotpot Returns The Beijing party is back with three-time DMS champion DJ Wordy, Soulspeak and DJ Wes as on the Migas terrace. Expect genre-spanning beats – hip-hop, bass, house, trap, funk, soul and more. Good vibes abound. > RMB60; 10pm – late; Migas (see Listings for details)

DJs: OuYang & Eddie Lv The DJs are ready to shake the earth beneath Workers Stadium with another 3 + 2 sessions at Lantern > RMB30 (free before 11 pm); not indicated; Lantern (see Listings for details)

SAT JUNE 27

Gig: Hoochie Coochie Gentlemen The four-piece blues and folk-rock band will deliver a night of sexy oriental blues. > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9 pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

NIGHTLIFE

ONGOING

DJs: Los Residentes with Ludo V. & Eddie Lv Bite-Size Buddha and Nassdak are joined once again by Ludo V. and Eddie Lv for an eclectic blend of everything from funky disco to house to techno grooves. > RMB60; 10pm – late; Migas (see Listings for details)

Sushi Yotsuba: Beijing’s Sushi Savior Talks Life, Eels and Lunchtime Deals

Gig: Eman Lam & Huyi Liu The two singer-songwriters that met on a Chinese talent show are going on a national tour to play songs about love and life. > RMB260 (door), RMB180 (presale); 8pm; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

SUN JUNE 21

NIGHTLIFE

DJs: Los Residentes with Wesley & Cad 73 Migas’ resident DJ night is back with Bite-Size Buddha and Nassdak being joined by Beijing’s premier platter pushers to get your body moving in ways you didn’t think possible. This time around, Wesley and Cad 73 bring funk, hip-hop and disco grooves to get you through the holidays. > RMB40; 10pm – late; Migas (see Listings for details) Gig: Violette and the Hunters One of the city’s favorite live bands, Violette and The Hunters will play a soulful mix your disco 70s in honor of ‘Fete de la Musique,’ France’s boozy summer music holiday. > Price TBC; Salud, Nanluoguxiang (see Listings for details)

MON JUNE 22

COMMUNITY

Workshop: Introduction to Chinese Calligraphy Learn the basics of calligraphy from an expert, and take your work home after. Your friends will be so impressed. > RMB160, RMB80 for members; 1-4pm; Culture Yard, 10 Shique Hutong, Dongcheng北京市东城区石雀胡同10号

When Harada Shoici first visited Beijing in 2003, something was missing. That thing was authentic Japanese-style sushi, and today, Shoici runs the sushi-restaurant empire that is Yotsuba. Thankfully, his high-end sushi just got cheaper for all of us – at lunch, Yotsuba now offers a massive spread that includes grilled fish, udon, sashimi, sushi, soup, dessert and more. This veritable Japanese feast would cost well over RMB600 at dinner, and is now yours for as little as RMB150 at lunch. In celebration of this great deal, we caught up with the man behind all that delicious imported raw fish. What was it like starting a business in Beijing over 10 years ago? Business-wise, not difficult. The biggest problem was trying to get used to Beijing—it’s very different from Japan. It was also difficult to open a Japanese restaurant in China, because of international relations. Back then, if I told people I’m Japanese, it would be difficult to do business. Now is a lot better. What got you into sushi? I know my fish! Quality trumps everything. I majored in Aquatic Products at university, and after graduating, I went to work at Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo, the biggest fish market in the world. Today, we fly fish from Japan to Beijing three times a week.

NIGHTLIFE

What do you recommend? The sea eel has become very popular lately. Most people are familiar with eel, but not sea eel, so we’ve brought it to the Chinese market and people here seem to like it. Most other eels are cultivated, but sea eels are wild.

Gig: Olivier Roussel Duo Olivier Roussel is a jazz guitarist whose duo plays atmospheric French jazz. The group has toured China several times

[Taking a bite of sea eel] This is really good. Thank you! > Sushi Yotsuba, see listing for details

WED JUNE 24

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since 2010. Now that’s worth snapping your fingers to. > RMB50 (door), RMB40 (presale); 9pm; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

SUN JUNE 28

COMMUNITY

Tour: Public Beijing Antiques Tour Learn about Chinese antiquing with a public tour. You’ll be taught to differentiate the good stuff from the fakes. Call ’em out like an umpire. >RMB190, RMB120 (kids under 14); 2pm - 4pm; not indicated, booking in advance info@newmantours.com

JUNE 27 - ONWARDS

ART

Exhibition: “From and For Nature” by Li Yushuang Master of landscape painting Li Yushuang presents what he calls the ‘light code’ of the world with a twoweek art exhibition. The 80-year-old creates art with the systematic methods of his engineering background in mind. > Free; 10am – 6pm, Daily from June 27 – July 12; Today Art Museum Hall #1

CITY SCENES With Hugh Hefner’s last-minute cancellation, cigar-wielding Chinese woman graciously steps at Sir.Teen.

A dull moment at Glug at The Taco Bar? Or a Sartre-esque waiting room for purgatory? All smiles at the BCIS Spring Fair for Mario, Luigi and... The Princess?

Woman tells joke at Back2Basics (Lantern). Man completely unsure of what she says.

Opera Bombana will never get the Michelin star it deserves if people with fluorescent green pants are allowed in to its anniversary parties.

Bewildered head of catering unsure how he ended up at Peng and Lmplus’ Aperidisco, but he’s rolling with it.

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WEEKLY SPECIALS

Happy hours Meal deals Brunch

Food and Drink

Ladies' nights

Opera Bombana A place like Opera Bombana doesn’t have to offer deals. The brainchild of celeb chef Umberto Bombana, Opera is the kind of place people will gladly shell out for. Put a plate of his risotto in front of us, and we’ll be scrambling for our latest paychecks faster than you can say “freshly grated truffles.” We were pleasantly surprised, then, to learn that Opera Bombana is more affordable than we’d previously thought. From Monday to Friday, the restaurant offers a set menu for as little as RMB98 for one course (RMB168 for two). Included are the chef’s Wagyu beef cappelletti, seared salmon, grilled chicken breast and grilled tenderloin. Add the pannacotta or mousse for just RMB38. > LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地底下2层

M O N DAY to FR I DAY MONDAY Mai Bar Buy two cocktails, get one free. > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

MONDAY TO THURSDAY XIU Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, 6-9pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)

MONDAY TO FRIDAY One East Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per person, 12:00-2:30pm. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿酒店2层 5865 5030 Great Leap Brewing 11:30-2pm, free soft drink or juice with any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Pale Ale #6. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see listings for details) Hagaki Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge. 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Jing Yaa Tang Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 6 8 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) Agua Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ person for three courses. > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Greyhound Café Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details) Village Café Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB88+15% (2 courses) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5210)

MONDAY TO SATURDAY Twilight Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, RMB20 off cocktails. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 (5900 5376)

TUESDAY Flamme Two-for-one steak all day. > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) El Gran Bocado

Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as you want. > 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416 1715)

TUESDAY TO FRIDAY S.T.A.Y Restaurant Three courses including coffee and tea for RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Mosaic Buy-one-get-one-free pizza every Wednesday lunchtime at Mosaic. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Xian Whiskey night, discounts on special selected whiskeys. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9810)

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

Great Leap Brewing All day Wednesday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see listings for details)

Domain Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger promotion. > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9830)

Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西门58号 (6551 2373) 4Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ weekly celebration of KTV. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

Opus Terrace Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)

FRIDAY Mesh House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 free. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)

EVENTS

E V ERY DAY Parlor Daily 6-8pm, buy one get one for free. > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) The Big Smoke Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, house wines and beers. > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) Blue Frog Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all drinks. > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) Centro Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 (6561 8833 ext. 42) Feast (Food by East) Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% with a glass of wine or soft drinks. > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9820)

Flamme Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Modo Urban Deli 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 and beer RMB15. > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207) Mosaic 4-8pm daily happy hour. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Mosto 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and beer. > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030) NOLA 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails including daiquiris. > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水

南街A-11 (8563 6215) R Lounge Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard drinks and cocktails. > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 层 (5863 8112) Transit Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Isola 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138. 3-6pm Fashion high tea 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on selected drinks 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course RMB238, 3-course RMB258. > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) Bene Restaurant Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta. > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路36 号 (5798 8888) Cafe Sambal Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats and vegetables each, varying daily. With

soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets from RMB55-65 > See Listings for details Beijing Marriott Hotel Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles and desserts, including juice or tea, RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 8888) Vivid Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 6310) Transit Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert for RMB88. > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Factory (By Salt) Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ catering, from RMB150pp > Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street, 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区 798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼一层1号 (010 5762-6451)

WEEK EN D SATURDAY Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) R Lounge Selection of drinks for free all night. > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 4层 (5863 8241)

SUNDAY Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) The Village Cafe Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under 12) > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 Qi Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim sum including one double-boiled soup for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of

Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 6666) Senses and Prego Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne Brunch, international and Asian specialties with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 percent service. > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街乙9号(6629 7810) Seasonal Tastes Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent surcharge. > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路7号(5922 8880) Sureño RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for free flow Champaign (all prices subject to 15% service charge) > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240) Vasco’s

Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet with free-flow champagne for RMB458 plus 15 percent service charge. > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411)

SATURDAY TO SUNDAY

Eudora Station Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with one main and free flow juice or coffee for RMB98. > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 8331)

Agua Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 for free flow drinks. > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)

Migas Migas rocks two different brunch options: Saturday, grilled meat heavy; and Sunday, paella heavy (both RMB210, +RMB138 for 2hrs free flow cava, coffee, tea soft drinks). > Daily 12pm-3pm; Migas 6/F Nali Patio, Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街那里花园6层

Aroma Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 percent service charge. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路83甲(5908 8161)

Mosaic Sat-Sun 11.30am-4pm, Middle-Eastern style brunch in Sanlitun. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065)

Café Sambal Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling out weekend brunch. Three courses plus coffee, tea or fruit punch. > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 43号 (6400 4875)

Sui Yuan Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 plus 15 percent surcharge. > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | 6 9

LISTINGS OPEN DOOR

RESTAURANT

The Hot One Hundred About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

CHINESE Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界酒店2层 (5960 8822)

Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is the place for mountainous shaved ice desserts and creamy bubble teas. > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. com.cn for details

The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI

Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) Resembling something between a nightclub and a theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes.

HAPPI SAKE Because Their Sake Will Make You Happi Happi Sake is one of our favorites: excellent Japanese in a laidback, relaxing setting. Owner and sake master Taka has created a thoughtful menu with the hope that you’ll pair his excellently prepared dishes with his excellently chosen sake. While staff is available to answer your pairing questions, Happi Sake’s menu does a good job explaining: recommended bottles are listed below each page of dishes. We love the high-end yakitori platters – especially the smoked foods platter (RMB80) for you to wash down with your favorite smoky sake, of course. Japanese-style tapas are also big here—try the anchovy flavored baked tomato with cheese (RMB28). It all comes together to make Happi Sake a classic Japanese izakaya in the heart of Beijing. Pour some sake and enjoy. > Happi Sake, see listing for details。 7 0 | J U N E 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)

Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of China, including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)

Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese restaurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, so expect sweet and delicate and sweet flavors with impeccable presentation. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666)

Peking Duck Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da

Expensive...................................¥ Expense Account ....................¥¥ Highly Recommended ..............* Top Ten ....................................**

Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadongdadong.com for more locations

Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

Shanghai Shanghai Min 小南国 Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469)

Sichuan/Hunan Chuan Ban 川办 * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

South Memory 望湘园 This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with locals. > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. southmemory.com for more locations

Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 The menu here is old-fashioned and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations

Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service complete the experience. > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com for other locations.

Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up

LISTINGS to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Chinese dining at its best.

site East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 9289, see www.dingdingxiang.com.cn for other locations)

Yunnan

> Daily, 24 hrs; 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80 Middle School), Chaoyang 朝阳区白家庄路甲2号 ( 八十中学西侧) (6595 2982, see http:www.haidilaohuoguo.com for other locations)

> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect district for Yunnan food, and this little gem is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town. > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318)

Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian)

Haidilao 海底捞火锅 * Hotpot in China is like religion; everyone’s got their own brand. Either way, the raw meats and vegetables, cooked communally, is divine, and the outstanding customer service makes Haidilao a fitting church

Regional Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites. > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281)

Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway. Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational. > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800)

Makye Ame (Tibetan) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb.

> Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号 (6506 9616)

An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)

Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.

> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Dumplings Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food. > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommendation the prices have risen and the walls are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)

Hot Pot Ding Ding Xiang 鼎鼎香 * Classier than most hotpot joints, Ding Ding Xiang features a spacious dining room of sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade huoguo in their own individual pot. The delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, Yuanjia International Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (oppo-

OPEN DOOR

ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shaobing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good. Queues of locals are testament. > Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

AROMA, THE RITZ-CARLTON, BEIJING Brunch with a Twist Aroma, the flagship restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton, Beijing has always offered something a little bit extra. For the hotel’s latest weekend brunch offering, you’ll be whisked back to prohibition-era of the 1920-30’s, complete with Long Island Iced Tea served from teapots and other period dishes like ice cream floats, mac ‘n’ cheese, shrimp cocktails and lobster rolls. There will be entertainment of the swing and jazz variety, as well as a retro photo booth – so all the more reasons to dust off your 1920s costume. Novelty aside, there’s all the quality one would expect from Aroma, including Boston lobster, Norwegian salmon, French foie gras, Australian beef and (for RMB598 per person + 15 percent service charge) all the Moet & Chandon Champagne you can drink. > Option of free-flow of house wine and beer also available for RMB538 per person + 15 percent service charge; Sun, 11.30am-3pm; Aroma, The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Road, China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳华贸中心建国路甲83号北京丽思卡尔顿酒店 (Reservations: 5908 8161)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like dapanji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)

WESTERN Fine Dining Aria ¥¥ (European) * A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Piedmont wine it is named after.

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151)

Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

> Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) * Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinvention of this long-standing Beijing fine dining institution. > Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm; 95 Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng 东城区东华门大街95号 (6526 8883)

CROWNE PLAZA BEIJING SUN PALACE: THE FOOD OF KINGS Rainbow Yunnan Restaurant There’s a reason why here at That’s Beijing we consider Yunnan cuisine to be the greatest of all of China’s famed regional foods. Take the Rainbow Yunnan restaurant at the Crowne Plaza Beijing Sun Palace, a specialist south western-styled restaurant (think stunning pagoda-interior and palatial decor). The restaurant serves some of the most exquisite dishes found anywhere in Beijing. What’s more, authenticity is guaranteed: the Rainbow Yunnan Restaurant boasts a head chef born and raised within the province, with over 12 years of cooking experience. If you’re looking for a true taste of the region, we recommend trying the traditional braised chicken served in a stone casserole (RMB36, best described as a sort of Yunnan soup), all the chickens are free range, and the herbs are fresh from Yunnan. Pair that with some classic Yunnanese-style spicy rice noodles, and crispy pork (RMB46). Of course, you can’t leave without trying the signature grilled fresh water fish with mixed herbs and chilies (RMB136), tender, delicately spicy, and grilled to perfection. Sip it all down with a nice cool glass of Dali beer, and enjoy a truly remarkable taste of Yunnan. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm, 4F, Crowne Plaza Beijing Sun Palace, 12 Qisheng Zhong Lu, Dongbeisanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东北三环七圣中街12号新云南皇冠假日酒店4层 (6429 8888)

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LISTINGS Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea.

you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant.

Héritage ¥¥ A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with Michelin star restaurant experience and an extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town.

> Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

> Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727)

> 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu. >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 (5695 8888)

S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics kitchen concept, which includes a mouthwatering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for international standard fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232)

Contemporary Western Alﬁe’s ¥ (British) What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

Caribeño (Latin) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes from all over the Latin continent here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos. > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

Chi (Organic, Fusion) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced. From the owners of neighboring Saffron. > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 67号 (6445 7076)

C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh shells from Canada, South Africa, France, USA and more – and they are well worth the price. The fries are the best we’ve had in Beijing, beer and wine selection also excellent. > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

Grill 79 (Steak) With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.

Starﬁsh (Seafood) ¥ * Starfish is among the very best seafood restaurants in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant is great for late-night dates, or just hanging out along the large wooden bar and enjoying an Irish rock with a craft beer. > Tue-Sun 11am-11pm, 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416 5499)

Stuﬀ’d (Contemporary Western) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308)

VIC Not to be confused with the notorious nightclub of the same name, this VIC is the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restaurant. All the major world cuisines are in attendance here – make you pay special attentions to the French-inspired breads and pastries – as is the customary Sunday champagne brunch. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Yi House (Contemporary Western) Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Café/Deli/Sandwich Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. Gets cozy at night.

> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069)

Café Zarah (Café) * A smart new interior and menu for this longstanding cafe has propelled it from hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, airy and with a terrace for summer, the only downside is it’s always packed. > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, with somewhat questionable price tags.

> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 8号楼833 (6417 1318)

MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary Western) * Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)

MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent.

> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

> Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

Missa (European) Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet,

Ricci Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit (duh), this creative café has a funky, kookymeets-organic vibe and serves up some of

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the best casual western food in town, and a great brunch at the Wudaokou location (Chaoyang branch closed weekends).

> 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 号院清华科技园D座1楼 8215 8826 )

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide ranging menu has something for everyone, especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types. > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Liangma River. Menu features British classics like fish & chips and bangers & mash. The breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms. >Daily Tue-Fri 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am (kitchen closes at 10pm), Sat/Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am; Liangmahe Nan Lu, west side of Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面 (8532 5335)

TRIBE * Induction to this Tribe appears to involve spending somewhere in the region of RMB100 on a kale salad and a freshly pressed juice, while basking in the warm, conceited glow that comes from knowing that you are Eating Well. Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic. > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 8587 1899

Wagas (Contemporary Western) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town. The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

> Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional locations in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

American/BBQ/Grill The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com)

Home Plate BBQ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

NOLA N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)

Tim’s Texas BBQ * Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn homestyle briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s recommended. > Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 2号院 (6591 9161)

Union Bar and Grill The definitive US-style diner in Beijing,

Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff. The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)

The Woods * New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)

Burgers Blue Frog This Shanghai hamburger franchise has been keeping Americans in China obese since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed.

> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Burger Bar Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and truffles. Burger King this ain’t. > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)

Chef Too ¥ With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town. > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

Steak 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号2层 (6584 6270))

Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contemporary Western) ¥¥ * The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order.

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

Flamme (Contemporary Western) Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail menu.

> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场269号 (8420 0270)

O’Steak A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. > Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 8250)

Mexican/Tex Mex Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun

LISTINGS Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 (6416 5212)

El Gran Bocado (Mexican) This unassuming little taquiera has a colorful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex dishes, and one of the best nacho plates we’ve had in Beijing.

> Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyanf 朝阳区幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416 1715)

Taco Bar Rising from the ashes of its deceased hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, popular and able to produce some of the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only RMB45 for three and great cocktails to complement.

> Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研究院内10号1层 (6501 6026)

line.thatsmags.com for details)

La Pizza Among the upper echelons of Beijing pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branches in Solana and pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3

> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990)

Spanish Agua ¥ *

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (KoreanMexican fusion) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Cali’ cocktails, too. > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)

Italian Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508)

Bene ¥ * Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Cepe ¥ In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb.

Weekends at

Brunch RMB298/198 Infinite drinks RMB168 4/F Nali Patio, Sanlitun Bar Street Tel: 5208 6188 Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant.

> Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Opera Bombana ¥ Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and certainly the only to have opened a restaurant in Beijing. > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)

Pizza Tube Station Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be the biggest in town. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.on-

Biteapitta * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 层 (6467 2961)

Cuju Moroccan Bistrot & Rummery * CuJu used to be a cozy little hutong sports bar with an incredible rum selection, but now it’s a cozy little Moroccan bistrot and rummery – so it still has an awesome rum selection. Badr’s Moroccan food might be the best in town.

Mosaic Restaurant & Bar Promising “the best shawarmas and shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar offers a range of great value delicacies and cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with a friendly and personalized service. One of few places in Beijing to offer genuine Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is a hidden Sanlitun gem.

> Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32 号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065)

Rumi (Middle Eastern

friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation and very available on JinShiSong online delivery. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255)

Raj Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authentic Indian, espcially the rather fine naan. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675)

Ganges Conveniently located above popular Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer. > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details.

South-East Asian Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors. > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com

Malacca Legend

> Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 (5208 6188)

Migas ¥ * The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations.

> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 6层 (5208 6061)

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Niajo ¥ * Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.

> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)

Isola Bar & Grill Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza.

Mercante ¥ * Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains.

> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)

> 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie, Dongcheng 东城区细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666)

> Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com; 6416 3499)

1001 Nights There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The whole Arabic dining package is on offer here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.

With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is prime Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain (minus the constant sunshine).

> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 3层 (5208 6052)

German

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi branch worth it. > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

Asian Indian Indian Kitchen

Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus with a Filipino cover band can be) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site).

Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it. > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

Flor de Loto Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Korea-town.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

> Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)

Paulaner Brauhaus The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

African/Middle Eastern

> Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccalegend.com)

4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with frequent live indie performances.

> Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 层(6503 5555)

> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

Malaysian food with a view, this spacious and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for their beef rendang or green curry prawns.

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Li Sanlitun then. The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly

> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

Purple Haze (Thai) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches

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LISTINGS and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town. Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45). > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

Susu (Vietnamese) The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish. > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)

Japanese Happy Sake (Japanese)

Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain.

> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags. com for other locations

Saveurs de Coree This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true. > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Vegetarian Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and they offer cooking classes as well. > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2层0260 (5900 1288) Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

When it comes to sake, owner Taka Yamamoto is an expert, responsible for around 80 percent of all high-quality sake imported to China. His restaurant is dedicated to food meant to be enjoyed with sake. Stylish and relaxed, high-quality and affordable - Happi Sake hits all the right notes. > Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-midnight; Jia 2, Tuanjiehu Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北路甲2号 (6582 8216)

Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) As much a California roll joint as true Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists. > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Inagiku * This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near to perfection as you’re likely to find. Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to be missed.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 (8517 2838)

Sake Manzo * The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town. > Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608)

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6 层 (6581 0072)

Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu RMB1,000), but what would you expect from some of the best sushi in town? Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above.

> Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷 10号 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)

Korean Ai Jiang Shan This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together.

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Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city. > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 19号. (6446 2073)

BARS TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability. 8-Bit Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable RMB25 a glass. > Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159 1025 6538))

BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) The brainchild of local spirits professional Douglas Williams, this bar provides the discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and straight-razor shaves.

> 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com)

The Brick A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.

> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Capital Spirits A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely hutong setting, friendly owners and great bottle collection.

> Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. com)

CICADA Ultralounge ¥ The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost. > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33

(6418 9898)

Cu Ju Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destination and sports fan’s manna all rolled into one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering North African food with an international cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums and sports broadcasts from basketball to cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best all-around bar-restaurants. > 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, www.cujubeijing.com

Daily Routine 日常生活 This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and the drinks at this establishment change seasonally according to ingredient availability. Light cafe fare is available during the day. > 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159

El Nido * The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally.

> Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园D405室 (5208 6076)

First Floor First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company. At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps. // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)

Fubar Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name. Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.

> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

Glen ¥ Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. See for yourself. > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)

Glen Classic ¥ Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号 (6551 6788)

Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good. Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. greatleapbrewing.com)

Heaven Supermarket

A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen.

> Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415 6513)

Hidden Lounge * Although frustrating to find, Hidden Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Ichikura ¥ One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails. Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge. > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

The Irish Volunteer Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 号 (6438 5581)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails. > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 4号院 ( 6503 2757)

Jing-A Taproom ** In just a few years, these guys developed from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding publicans with their own range of souvenir T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-andmortar taproom, which is large, warm and sociable, and has up to 16 different beers on tap. > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院

Maggie’s ¥ A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture. > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南门 (8562 8142)

Mai Bar * Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town.

> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)

Mao Mao Chong ** The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)

Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).

> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Parlor Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.

> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)

Revolution * Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but

LISTINGS if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍 * A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086) > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** This popular microbrewery has its own pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. Quality ales that change depending on the season, heated floors and a great little kitchen round out the deal. > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

The Tree A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)

10 Best Livehouses 2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 * Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire trap. That place by the drive-through. But there’s no denying that this artsy alternative venue has its fingers on an eclectic musical pulse. In summer, it really comes alive with barbecue pits, all-day parties and a whole lotta love. > Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu (inside the drive-in movie theater park), Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路21号 (6436 8998,www.2kolegas.com)

Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Great little livehouse near Meishuguan with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly. > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969)

Hot Cat Club 热力猫 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space. > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 46号(6400 7868).

Jianghu 江湖酒吧 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the gethome-for-the-babysitter crowd. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@gmail.com)

Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍 Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this former warehouse plays host to a Silk Road smorgasbord of musical encounters from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget the overpriced bar and come for the killer sound, comfortable wraparound balcony and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang restaurant upstairs. > Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 1113, www.mako001.com)

MAO Livehouse 光芒 * From the denim-jacketed doorman to the well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hit-

ting this side of the Drum Tower.

> 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山 Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines. > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

School Bar 学校酒吧 * Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947)

Temple 坛 * Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 202 (131 6107 0713)

XP 小萍 * From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary D-22, rises the brave new experimental club XP. Operated and owned by former D-22 main man (and noted economist) Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic projections, drone-core jazz and the latest in cutting-edge Beijing sound.

> 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just south of Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城区地安门内大街四楼巷 (6406 9947)

Zajia Lab 杂家 A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d expect an Italian Sinologist to open a venue – big on film screenings, A/V projects, avant-garde puppetry and choice but obscure live music for the adventurous. > Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同宏恩观前殿 (156 0112 2252, 8404 9141, www.zajia.cc)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711

Hotel Bars Atmosphere ¥¥ Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.

> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

Centro ¥ Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 1层 (6561 8833)

Xian ¥ This enlongated bar space makes a nice spot for refreshment after a day spent shopping at neighboring Indigo.

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)

Sports Bars The Den At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and grows steadily sadder as night turns to day. It can get rough and ready come dawn.

Solid (cheap) menu, good location and those opening times earn it a place. > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边

The Local * Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another. > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6591 9525)

Paddy O’Shea’s * Founder Karl Long airlifted an entire Irishthemed pub, including residents, from a council estate in Limerick and gently deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports, no one seems to have noticed.

> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

V Sports Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars. > Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)

Nightclubs The Bar at Migas * A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man. > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)

Chocolate It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows. > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

Dada * It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene. > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B 栋101室 (183 1108 0818)

Lantern * Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989)

MIX A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix is one of those places in Beijing you have to experience before you leave. Not much is forbidden in this underground hip-hop disco palace and if you don’t leave with hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong. > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ sohu.com

Vics Separated at birth from its identical twin brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti sweatbox meat-market chic at its very finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics to become one of the most infamous clubs in the capital. > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333)

GALLERY

In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua is the international gallery. Their warehouse space is a forum for high-caliber artists from nearly every continent, including several of China’s artistic nobility. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2 号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.com)

Long March Space Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by exacting standards from both the 20-odd Chinese artists he represents and the overall design of his topical and uncompromising exhibitions. International clout was inevitable. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com)

Pace Beijing With locations in New York, London and Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is idealized for. Go there! > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com)

Space Station Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to have a good curatorial understanding of space and high-quality 2D work.

> Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区中一街 (5978 9671)

Ullens Center for Contemporary Art Filling the largest factory space in 798 with Chinese and international art, the UCCA has the curatorial power and financial backing to put together some of Beijing’s most impressive exhibitions. > RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca. org.cn)

Caochangdi Art Village Platform China * Platform China has a Gallery A & B, one directly across from the other, about equal in size and each devoted to the promotion of experimental creation, from sound installation to performative, 3D and 2D art. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. No. 319-1, East End Art Zone A, Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地村319-1艺术东区A区内(6432 0091, www. platformchina.org)

Three Shadows Photography Art Centre Elegantly utilitarian in design, the V-shaped gallery is an ideal venue to accommodate all sizes and forms of photography. The courtyard also hosts lavish openings, screenings and concerts. > Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 115A Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地155号 (6431 9693, www.threeshadows.cn)

Chambers Fine Art Beijing With its compeer gallery in New York, Chambers is a matriarch with extensive roots in the local-studio scene that allows Big Apple headhunters to cull next generation avant-garde and provide a stepping stone to international recognition.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127 3298, www.chambersfineart.com)

White Space Beijing There are no restricting on the art this gallery supports, leading to some of the area’s more perplexing exhibitions. Always fun and on the pulse of vitality, though empirical value is pushed to an extreme.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com)

Citywide Picks Arrow Factory This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an independently run alternative space in the hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young, experimental artists, Arrow only takes up about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As a backlash against artists being pushed outside the city limits, this space tries to reinstall art inside an urban setting so everyday experience and creativity remain intertwined.

798 Art District Picks

> Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号 (www.arrowfactory.org.cn)

Galleria Continua *

CAFA Museum

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LISTINGS Attached to the northeast corner of the Central Academy of Fine Art, architect Arata Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to house the museum’s 13,000+ collection of modern to contemporary art. Opened in 2008, exhibitions range from Chinese Modern masterworks to current avant-garde experimental. > RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8 Huajiadi Nan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区花家地南街8号中央美术学院美术馆 (6528 2022, www.cafamuseum.org)

Today Art Museum * As China’s first non-profit, non-governmental art museum, this institution embodies the country’s 20th-century leap to develop academic and progressive exhibitions. Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and university prospects all get wall space here. > RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4, Pingod Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼今日美术馆 (5876 0600, www.todayartmuseum.com)

Independent cinemas Broadway Cinematheque MOMA * Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue boasts the largest screens for independent cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters with a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm cafebookstore, aptly named Kubrick. > RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3, Building T4, The North Area, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongcheng District 东城区东直门香河园路1号当代Moma北区T4座 (8438 8258 ext. 8008, www.bccinema.cn)

Instituto Cervantes Showing popular independent films from Latin American Directors monthly, the Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanishspeaking culture that also hosts public art exhibitions and lectures. They even have a video library!

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Heyrobics “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule.

> Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn)

Alona Pilates Studio Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels.

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HAIR SALONS Laurent Falcon

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Lily Nails A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and waxing services too.

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> Room 301, Building 5, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO, 5号楼301 (138 1182 1008)

> Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 (5879 9666, www.pekin.cervantes.es)

Tang Contemporary Art Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installation and curatorial theory. With locations in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang focuses on promoting artistic exchange throughout East Asia.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. atngcontemporary.com)

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Bookstores The Bookworm * This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event space always has a cultured evening on its shelves for both adults and kids. > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)

Page One The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive collection of titles. > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com)

Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)

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>Tue-Sat 9am-6pm, Room 2103, Tower E1, The Towers, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang’An Ave, Dong Cheng 东城区东长安街1号东方广场东方经贸城E1办公

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3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to begin your journey into Yoga, so they are available to answer any questions you may have. It’s a great workout for the body and calming for the mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 9996, 8599 7395)

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Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls. > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re

California Fitness Beijing Club California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia. Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment. >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District

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ShanghART Beijing Originating in 2007 in Shanghai, this institution skyrocketed as a major exhibitor of Chinese photographic and digital media art. Now representing over 40 artists with five Asian locations, ShanghART is an international festival regular.

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Catherine de France Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a trained team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, including manicures, pedicures & waxing. Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI.

> EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 E-mail: catherine@catherinedefrance.com Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. com

DENTAL Arrail Dental Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants. > 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry

Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain of contemporary spas. Calming flower aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui fountains create a soothing atmosphere in each of their locations, while a long list of treatments from around the world cater to all pampering needs.

> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)

Dragonﬂy Therapeutic Retreat Created as a contemporary urban retreat, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)

HEALTH SERVICES Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. amcare.com.cn)

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken. > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric Clinic

> Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn)

Beijing Passion International Medical Center This full-service international clinic

LISTINGS provides 24-hr general medical care and a patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion International Medical Center is equipped with the latest in medical technology and is designed to support the comfort, safety and privacy of patients.

> 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com

Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院 > Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net

to instruct the class for 4 consecutive days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime. Email: beijing@rhsmith.umd.edu Tel: 8526 2528/29 Rutgers International Executive MBA

> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)

Mandarin Schools The Frontiers School

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院

> Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn

Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所

Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, 6553-2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www. hkclinic.com

International SOS Since 1989, International SOS has been run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments. Languages spoken include English, German, French, Mandarin, Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)

Parkway Health Clinic

> Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心 AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@ parkwayhealth.cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼北京Link 101-201室

Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所

> 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 85296618. Email: vista@vista-china.net. Website: www. vista-china.net

OASIS International Hospital OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

EDUCATION MBA & EMBA Schools BBA at BFSU-SolBridge 北京外国语大学国际商学院

> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537)

LEMBA The Leadership EMBA from the University of Maryland Robert H. Smith School of Business is a unique learning experience in Beijing. The program offers world class executive and leadership education from some of the best professors the world has to offer. Every month one of the professors from the University of Maryland comes to Beijing

on its campuses conveniently located in Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School since 2001, BWYA values holistic education and seeks to give students ample opportunity to develop as globally-aware critical thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular activities are offered to further enrich student life. Graduates of BWYA have been accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB 100,000- 140,000/year.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 3478/0649, admissions@ibwya.net, www.ibwya.net)

The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 The British School of Beijing, established in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993246,057. Contact our Admissions team to arrange a school tour.

Join the friendly and professional team at Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin for 11 years. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. com.cn)

Beijing Mandarin Language School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language. More than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmandarinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)

Beijing Juncheng Language School 北京君诚语言学校 > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 (15321793321 Grettchin)

International Schools Beijing BISS International School 北京BISS国际学校 > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. com.cn)

Beijing City International School 北京乐成国际学校 Located in Beijing’s Central Business District, Beijing City International School (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering and Inspiring through Challenge and Compassion.” This non-profit, independent co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and is authorized to teach all three IB programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Programme). > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)

The International Montessori School of Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully registered international Montessori school. The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Mandarin/English program geared towards helping students achieve fluency in either language from an early age. Curriculum aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a high teacher-student ratio and impressive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 - RMB177,000/year. > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, http:>www.msb.edu.cn, admissions@msb.edu.cn

Beijing World Youth Academy 北京世青国际学校 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an international school for students of all nationalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.org.cn)

La Maison Montessori de Pekin 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 The first bilingual French-Chinese Montessori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes children between ages 2 to 6 years old. The kindergarten is located in a beautiful courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class activities also offered. > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十四条50号 Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; e-mail: lamaisonmontessoripk@gmail.com www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com

Beijing Mandarin School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language, more than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. Also recognized and recommended by BBC News as one of the most professional Chinese language school. > E-tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, 9/F E-tower Building E数码世界9层904-905(6508 1026/1126) Guangming Hotel School (Embassy Area): Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel(near U.S Embassy) 光明饭店7层0709室美国大使馆附近(84418391) Email: info@beijingmandarinschool.com/ www. beijingmandarinschool.com/ Skype ID: beijingmandarinschool1998

Canadian International School of Beijing 北京加拿大国际学校 Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class facility offers an internationally recognized Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen of the world. > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)

Harrow International School Beijing 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Harrow International School Beijing prides itself on its high academic standards, a close-knit school community, a rich extracurricular activity program and the quality of its pastoral care provision. Leadership skills are promoted school-wide, with a range of enrichment activities to help students develop teamwork and creative thinking skills, as well as independence and responsibility. Students graduating from Harrow Beijing have won places at a range of universities across the world including Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 Email: enquiries@harrowbeijing.cn

International School of Beijing 北京顺义国际学校

> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)

students to realize their full potential. They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football. > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn; 8049 2450)

Western Academy of Beijing 京西国际学校 The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is a creative and innovative IB World School built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to others, can-do spirit and commitment to excellence. WAB graduates are accepted into world-class colleges and universities across the globe. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588)

Yew Chung International School 耀中国际学校 > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 www.ycis-bj.com)

Kindergartens Beanstalk International Bilingual School 青苗国际双语学校 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38号 (8456 6019)

House of Knowledge International Kinde garten (HOK) House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergarten program for children aged 10 months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as competent learners and the school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade 1 in September 2014. > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www.hokschools.com)

EtonKids International Kindergarten 伊顿国际幼儿园 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门外广渠家园 21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲 20号首府社区内

Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园

> www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, warehouse4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106 室, 近王家码头路

3e International 北京3e国际学校 > 6437 3344

www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)

SIBS Springboard International Blingual School 君城国际双语学院 Springboard International Bilingual School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their

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CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION Ascott Raffles City Beijing Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City. Other nearby leisure attractions include Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district. > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 Ascott Raffles City Chengdu > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China Post code: 610041 Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888 Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 GDS Code: AZ Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing Somerset ZhongGuanCun is a luxury residence in Beijing that lets you enjoy the cultural depth and elegance of the city while living in the fast developing ZhongGuanCun area, only 15 minutes away from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian District Tel: 5873 0088 Lusongyuan Hotel A traditional compound of quadrangle composing of 5 courtyards which lies in the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous for its imperial living taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of nearly 170 years. The original owner of this large private house was the Grand General SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he carried out top official duties, such as defense minister. > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Address: No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com Lee Garden Service Apartments A newly renovated high-end premier living residence in a central location next to the shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Wangfujing, suites range from studios to 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) and are tastefully furnished with specially selected materials. > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, general.manager@lgapartment.com, www. lgapartment.com) FraserResidence CBD East Beijing Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free! One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. com > Website: http:>beijing-east frasershospitality.com Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 FraserSuite CBD Beijing The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357

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Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 5908 6000 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas. Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and C will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances M etc.. Unique sky garden with golf practice field Y and barbecue area is another symbol of GTC Residence. CM > E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com website: www.gtcresidence.com MY Tel:56756666 Lanson Place CY Lanson Place Central Park Serviced Residences, located in the Central Business CMY District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom K configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden. The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped. > Website: www.lansonplace.com Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 Marriott Executive Apartments Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing area where the prestigious business, commercial, entertainment, and shopping center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng District Tel: 6564 9999 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District. Tel: 8588 2888 Oakwood Residence Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100027, China reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES The Westin Executive Residences at The Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and

close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions. > Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial Tel: 6606 8866

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Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 China Central Place 北京华贸中心 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国路79号华贸中心2号楼9层 Parkview Green 北京侨福芳草地中心 15/F, Office Building A Parkview, Green, No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东大桥路8号芳草地办公楼A座 15层 China Life Tower 北京中国人寿大厦中心 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层 China Life – West 北京中国人寿大厦-西 West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层西区

•Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people •Prices from RMB180 per month •Find more on Regus.cn •Tel: 400 120 1207 >> BEIJING (19 LOCATIONS) << Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 北京利星行广场 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 北京新东安广场 7/F, Office Tower 2, Sun Dong An Plaza, No.138 Wangfujing, Avenue, Dongcheng District 北京市东城区王府井大街138号新东安广场写字楼2座7层 Zhongyu Mansion [Coming Soon] 北京中宇大厦 6/F, Zhongyu Mansion, No.6 North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦6层 Diplomatic [Coming Soon] 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区亮马桥外交办公大楼E座17层 Kerry Centre - South Tower [Coming Soon] 北京嘉里中心-南楼 C 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 M

IFC 北京财源国际中心 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲8号财源国际中心东座10层 Prosper Center 北京世纪财富中心 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang Hua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6 层 Financial St. Excel Centre 北京金融街卓著中心 12/F, Financial Street Excel, Centre, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District 北京市西城区武定侯街6号卓著国际金融中心 12层 NCI Centre 北京新华保险大厦中心 15/F, NCI Tower, No.12A Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲12号新华保险大厦15层 Taikang Financial Tower 北京泰康金融大厦 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦 23层 Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 北京中关村欧美汇大厦 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District 北京市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大厦7层

China World Tower 3 Y 北京国贸三期 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District CM 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 MY 15层 Lufthansa Centre CY 北京燕莎中心 C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao CMY Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 K

Kerry Centre 北京嘉里中心 11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Pacific Century Place 北京盈科中心 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers

CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and Pacific region, and our headquarters is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and

CLASSIFIEDS all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services. Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, Taiyanggong, Beijing Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591 Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com Website: www.csochina.cn Tel: 86 10 64697000 Servcorp Smart businesses understand that flexibility is the future of the workplace. They choose the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow their businesses, run critical projects and give their people flexibility. Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) Need flexible and affordable ready workspace to enhance your business or register a representative office for your temporary projects in Beijing? We have the perfect solution. Located within a Grade-A building in the popular Lufthansa Business Area, our work-spaces provide you, or your company, with the ideal business identity, and most importantly, come with the most competitive rates to minimize your cost and risks. Please contact: > Gateway Plaza, Tower A, Suite 16D , NE 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路霞光里18号佳程广场A座16D T:01084400606 M:15910782518 Cynthia LU

sightseeing. Our commpany could provide the latest elite, high-end vehicles such as Mercedes Benz S300, BMW S5 and more! Contact our friendly representatives for more information. Tel: 138 1015 6525/6434 0778 www.fccars.cn fccars@live.cn Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd Beijing Top-A Vehicle Service provides: *English -speaking driver *Long-short term leasing *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan, Van and Bus We, ES-PATS Life Group, also serves with Mandarin, housemaid, Visa, driver, driving license, vehicle registration service. Tel: 6438 1634, 1350 123 7292, service@ expatslife.com www.expatslife.com Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd *Long/Short term leasing *Daily car service *Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car service *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat, Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito, Hyundai) and Buses *Native drivers with good English *More information please contact Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256 FAx:6504 7256 www.sxsdcar.com Email:car-rental@live.com

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BEAUTY SERVICES Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun Branch Grand Opening Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s, to bring a continuous tanning effect 25% above standard machines with unique aquacool and aroma functions, we provide customers with the safest and most comfortable tanning space. > Open time:11:00-21:00 Sanlitun SOHO Branch Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun SOHO,Chaoyang District Tel: 57853711 Wangjing Branch Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Website: www.bjtanning.com Tel: 84722855 LA BELLEZA La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in Spanish. Professional hair-designers from Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here. LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, and finest products. New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life! Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china. Website: www.labelleza.com.cn Tel: 010 8522 1626 MegaSun Tanning Salon As the only flagship store for this popular German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning will provide for each client the finest sun tanning experience. Our center has prepared the newest functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy chamber systems, combined with easyCare optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our professional UV and tanning services. > 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO North Tower, Rm. 2302 Chaoyang District, Beijing Website: www.imegasun.com e-mail: 1019771453@qq.com Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂 Tel: 5900-2236/2238

CAR RENTAL SERVICE Beijing First Choice Car Rental Service Co., Ltd We offer short and long term vehicle leasing services for both business and

Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC. 上海市静安区延安中路841号东方海外大厦 904室 Guangzhou: Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3 Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC. 广州市中山二路3号(东山口)粤运大厦11楼 D-E室 Hong Kong: 7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong. 香港德辅道中161-167号香港贸易中心7楼 Beijing Office-TMF Group In order to enable clients benefit from the increasing globalization of the worlds economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative outsourcing services in 67 counties across the globe. With a genuine global network and qualified staff, TMF group provides an array of accounting, corporate secretarial and HR administrative outsourcing services. > Colin.Zhang@TMF-group.com Website: www.tmf-group.com CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7 Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang District Tel: 65330533-860

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REAL ESTATE AGENTS JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION SERVICE We are one of China’s leading real estate agencies boasting an extensive database of high-end properties for rent. We have helped thousands of expatriates find their homes as well as hundreds of companies re-locate their employees. Once we have found you your ideal home we will be on hand to deal with any post move issues and our dedicated after sales team will be contactable 7 days a week to help you with any queries you have throughout your stay in our country. > For more information please contact us: Email: paulquin@joannarealestate.com.cn Website: http:>beijing.joannarealestate. com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971) Replus-Benchmark “Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading real estate agencies and relocation service provider for expatriates in Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and Shenzhen. • Residential Home Search Service • Visa Application • Commercial Office Space Search Service • Buying and Selling Property Service E-mail: marketing@replus-benchmark.com Website: www.replus-benchmark.com > A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577 Silk Road Travel Management Ltd. Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing Silk Road tours and other classic routes in China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized in tailor making travel packages that allow travellers to truly experience the local cultures and explore the amazing heritages. Whether you are a small group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our professional staff will tailor make the tour programme based on your needs. Email: travel@the-silk-road.com www.the-silk-road.com TUI China An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s leading tourism group, TUI China was established in late 2003 as the first joint venture with foreign majority share in the Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters are in Beijing whilst its operations reach deep into the far corners of China. World of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and provides M.I.C.E services for renowned companies worldwide. > Add: Bright China Chang An Building, Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email: sales@tui.cn; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel: 8519 8800

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BUSINESSES! PROMOTE YOUR SERVICES TO THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE EACH MONTH ON OUR CLASSIFIEDS PAGES. FOR MORE DETAILS AND SPECIAL PACKAGES PLEASE E-MAIL BJADVERTISING@ URBANATOMY.COM

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SPORTS | RUNNING

HEYRUNNING! Randy’s Guide to Running Workouts by Ra n d y R i c h a rd s o n

ere are a couple of my favorite options for those time-conscious runners among you, as well as a few more advanced workouts for the pros. Each of the workouts uses timed measurements to make it easy for everyone to follow, regardless of whether you have a GPS-enabled device or not. Tip 1: If possible (especially on the harder workouts), grab a friend to take along. This’ll add a bit of competition to push you and make the workout that bit more fun. Tip 2: For all the runs not marked ‘progression,’ I would suggest

finding a space where you can run back and forth so that you can try to cover the same distance with each successive repetition. The ultimate goal is to manage your energy in such a way that you can finish the workout feeling tired, having run each segment of the main workout equally hard. The following workouts are designed not only to make runners faster but also smarter by challenging you to budget your time and energy evenly throughout the workout. Done carefully, over time and in succession, each of the workouts below should make runners stronger, faster, more patient and, most importantly, more confident in their own abilities.

EASY/TIME-CONSCIOUS

MEDIUM:

ADVANCED

Out & Back (progression run): builds aerobic stamina and energy awareness. • How to do it: start by running at a medium intensity out in one direction for 20 mins, then turn around and run back 2-5 mins faster. • Who would benefit: new runners trying to build up their fitness by adding more distance and learning how to judge effort over longer distances; runners without much free time.

45-sec Repeats (speed): improves efficiency and speed. • How to do it: warm up by running for 10 mins. Then run hard for 45 secs and rest for 60. Repeat eight times while trying to cover the same distance each time. Work your way up to 12 reps in subsequent workouts. • Who would benefit: runners aiming to decrease their average per/km race time and strengthen their finishing kick

Fast Finish Long Run (progression): teaches runners to patiently wait and increase speeds at critical moments during a race and how to finish strong without slowing at the end. • How to do it: begin by running at a pace 2-3 mins slower per km than your marathon pace. With 45 min to go, increase your speed to your target marathon pace. With 10 mins to go, gradually increase speed above your target pace until that the last 2 mins are an all-out sprint. • Who would benefit: runners who go on long runs of 60 min or more and who usually start out strong but fade towards the end of a run/race.

Surges (easy/speed): faster bouts of running that teach the body to use energy more efficiently. • How to do it: run at an easy pace for 10-15 mins, then do five 15 sec-surges: alternate 15 secs of fast running with 60 secs of easy running. Finish with another five mins of easy running. Work your way up to 15 15-sec surges in subsequent workouts. • Who would benefit: runners who have not done much speed work in the past and want to incorporate more into their routine.

10-2-10 (stamina/strength): helps build strength to maintain a faster pace over longer distances. • How to do it: warm up by running for 10-15 mins. Then, at a pace that is about 15 secs slower than your usual 5k race pace (10k pace), complete the following: 4 x 10 mins with a 2 min rest between each repetition • Who would benefit: runners who have a solid aerobic base but aren’t yet ready to tackle long progression runs

That’s Beijing is proud media partner of HeyRunning. Join a session on Monday evenings, Wedesday evenings, Sunday mornings – or all three. It costs RMB30 for each individual session. Go online at www.heyrobics.com/heyrunning for membership information. Follow HeyRunning on WeChat, username: HeyRunning. All levels welcome!

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