That's Beijing - September 2015 by That's - Pulse of The City

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4 00 8 2 0 8428 城市漫步北京英文版 09 月份国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press

ISSN 1672-8025

SEPTEMBER 2015

主管单位：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位：五洲传播出版社地址：北京市海淀区北三环中路 31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 刘扬 Liu Yang 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静，李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Deputy Editor Oscar Holland Senior Editors Marianna Cerini, Noelle Mateer Designers Tin Wu, Xiaoran Li Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Dominique Wong, Andrew Chin, Mia Li, Karoline Kan, Sophia Pederson, Tongfei Zhang, Nancy Tong, Stefano Li

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EDITOR’S NOTE

DEALS

We‘re giving away tickets to some of

SEPTEMBER

the very biggest

LAST MONTH ENDED, AS THIS MONTH BEGAN – WITH CLEAN BLUE SKIES AND (RELATIVELY)

traffic-free streets. Now, imagine for a moment that these types of occurrences were an everyday reality and not a singular event. It’s the sort of tempting fantasy we’d usually dismiss out of hand (why create false expectations?). But as this month’s Cover Story proves, Beijing’s future isn’t necessarily predestined to live out the mistakes of the present – at least not yet. If the experts we spoke with are to be believed, the capital could one day become a genuinely intelligent, well-organized, livable city. How? Turn to page 42 to find out. We’re looking to the future in this month’s City section too, as we head to Zhangjiakou, the Bird’s Nest Stadium and a lonely Kazak restaurant on the day of last month’s IOC announcement, to assess the reaction to Beijing and Zhangjiakou’s joint winning bid for the 2022 Winter Olympics (page 10). Elsewhere in the magazine, we preview Beijing Design Week (page 40); meet with our favorite band of the moment, Stolen (page 36); talk Chinese convenience store snacks with the UK’s most exciting drum ‘n’ bass DJ and producer, Sam Binga (page 34); drink homebrewed spicy gin with the fellas over at Capital Spirits (page 58); engage in an unmoving – and frankly pointless – interview with British rock outfit Muse (but here it is anyway, page 32); and round up Beijing’s best dressed men, as selected by Fashion Editor, Marianna Cerini (page 22). Until next time,

Beijing events, parties, openings, shows and talks all month, alongside a whole other host of free meals, drinks discounts and giveaways. All you have to do is scan the QR code below,

Stephen George Editor-in-Chief

Oscar [right] and I soaking up the anti-fascist ambience of parade day

T hats_Beijing t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s _ B e i j i n g facebook .com/pages/ T hats-Beijing

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QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“This is ridiculous! I came here for the ceremony. What’s the point of standing here, when I could go home and watch it on TV?” An elderly Zhangjiakou resident on the announcement of the 2022 Winter Olympics, page 10

6 CIT Y

8 MUMMY BOYS Tomb raiders are digging for ancient treasure in outer Beijing

9 MOR AL MA ZE Would Confucius really abandon a critically ill friend?

17 WORD ON THE STREET Express your utter hopelessness – using Chinese slang!

18 LIFE & ST YLE 18 THE LIT TLE ONE SAID …roulou-ver, with new kids clothing brand Tang’ Roulou

20 WR APPED UP Summer is gone – deal with it

28 WINDOW SHOPPING We’ve got Beijing’s latest style openings covered

30 ARTS 36 STEAL BAND Chengdu quintet Stolen

38 ALIVE AND KICKING The live house is dead, long live the creative space 40 DESIGNS FOR LIVING Our guide to this year’s Beijing Design Week

5 2 E AT & D R I N K 54 WHOSE CUP OF TEA Is China falling out of love with an old favorite? 56 BEER GOGGLES The Autumn Craft Beer Festival is almost here 5 8 S P IR I T E D AWAY The Distillery’s craft liquor is the new craft beer 4 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

THE WRAP 10 COLD LIGHT OF DAY As the Winter Olympics 2022 is announced, we travel to Zhangjiakou, the Bird’s Nest and the Kazakhstani Embassy in search of someone who cares

3 4 HARBINGA OF BASS DJ and producer Sam Binga talks drum ‘n’ bass (‘n’ pineapple slushies)

22 IT’S A MAN’S WORLD …or it is this month anyway, as we talk to six of Beijing’s best-dressed chaps W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 5

THE BUZZ B L AS T I N G O F F Final touches are made to decorations along Chang’an Avenue ahead of this month’s military parade

STIFF DRINK

Next time you break out the baijiu, be careful, as the shots may have more than their usual kick. Last month, Chinese authorities seized more than 5,300 bottles of spirits from two manufacturers in Liuzhou, who were found adding their own special form of aphrodisiac to their products. The spirits – which were intended for sale across the country, including Beijing – were laced with sildenafil and tadalafil, generic forms of erectile dysfunction drugs similar to Viagra. 6 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

RANDOM NUMBER

Is the number of songs Chinese authorities have ordered to be pulled from the Internet due to their “severely problematic content.” The songs include inspired titles such as ‘Don't Want to Go to School,’ ‘All Must Die’ and ‘Fart.’ The banned songs are mostly by unknown local hip-hop artists, though popular acts such as Taiwanese singer Chang Csun Yuk (right) also make the list. According to the Ministry of Culture, no individual or organization is allowed to play or share the songs. Anyone who doesn’t comply faces “severe punishment.”

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

AS K A L AO B E I J I N G

A Guangzhou university student’s court case against China’s Ministry of Education over school textbooks that “demonize” gays and lesbians has been successfully filed at Beijing No. 1 Intermediate People’s Court. Homosexuality was decriminalized in China in 1997 and removed from an official list of mental illnesses in 2001. But with psychiatry and psychology textbooks continuing to describe homosexuality as something that needs to be “cured,” it’s clear there’s still some way to go. According to the student who filed the case, Chen Qiuyan: “[The authorities] have no idea how harmful a textbook could be to a young student struggling with his or her identity.”

We met 46-year-old Mo while traveling in his taxi from Panjiayuan to Sanlitun

Q U OT E O F T H E M O N T H

“I am probably the first to hold this child!” Exclaimed Beijing police officer Qian Feng, after his heroic rescue of a newborn baby found abandoned facedown in a hutong toilet last month. Police discovered the female baby after neighbors reported cries emanating from a public bathroom in Xicheng. The police considered destroying the toilet to reach the baby, but fearful of time, plucky Qian reached down and pulled her out. In China, the social stigma associated with out-of-wedlock births sometimes leads to unmarried mothers abandoning their newborns. Hospital staff have since reported that the baby is healthy and stable.

What do y th in k B e o u ij w il l lo o in g k li in th e fu ke tu re ?

“I think the future will be much better! I’ve heard that they will relocate a lot of the government offices out beyond the Fifth Ring Road. If this happens, the inner city will become a purely cultural place – and traffic will be directed outwards. Beijing is currently both China’s cultural and governmental center. But in the future, these will be separate, like in American cities, but even better. I’ve never been outside China, but I think that if you look at Beijing’s history, it’s already changed so much, so I think the future will be full of change too. Beijing has a lot of people who are interested in culture and arts. Many of them leave China, but maybe in the future the government will not allow them to leave so easily, and, if they are forced to stay, this will increase the culture here even more. There will always be a lot of young people from other places coming to Beijing to study, because they don’t have the same opportunities in their hometowns. There will be more and more foreigners coming to Beijing too. Do you know why? Because their countries are already developed, yet China is still developing, so they want to make the most of these new opportunities while they can. Even Chinese-born people who left are coming back. Lots of my passengers are from overseas. I think overall the economy is getting better. There’s no way we’ll ever have an economic crisis like Japan or the USA! China has a lot of people, so we can just start our own businesses, and make our own products. We don't need to rely on foreigners. Of course, wages will increase and people will spend more too. The government is very good at protecting Beijing's traditions and cultures. Beijing’s hutongs will always be around because they’re part of our history – and tourists love them. Tourists don’t want to see high-rises, because they can see it in their own cities. They want to see something unique to Beijing.” As told to Dominique Wong W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7

CI T Y | TA LES

TALES OF THE CITY Move over Lara Croft: China has its own gang of tomb raiders, and they’re aiming big and getting (meta)physical. The opportunities aren’t lacking. As one of the world’s earliest civilizations, China is awash with cultural relics. The country’s fervor for rapid urbanization has seen cities expand outwards, leading to the discovery of many new tombs – especially in Beijing’s outermost areas. Earlier this year, an enormous 1,000-year-old tomb complex was unearthed in Daxing district during a routine site check for a planned residential complex. While last month, archaeologists stumbled upon a 2,000-year-old tomb complex – made up of over 100 tombs across six hectares of land – in Xinjiang. The problem is that archaeologists aren’t the only ones digging. Tomb raiding in China is as old as the tombs themselves (they go back approximately 4,000 years). But it’s the scale, frequency and creativity employed which have authorities on high alert. Though most tomb raiding is carried out by ill-

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equipped local farmers, professionals are becoming wise to the trade. The increasingly lucrative nature of tomb raiding has seen teams of professional antique thieves employing feng shui, mineral prospecting and even crooked archaeologists to steal millions of dollars’ worth of antiquities from China’s ancient tombs. Last month saw the arrest of 175 people in a large-scale nationwide crackdown on professional tomb raiding. The operation involved more than 1,000 police officers across six provinces and resulted in the recovery of 1,168 cultural relics worth more than RMB500 million, according to the Ministry of Public Security. Among those arrested was an elite archeology gang suspected of conducting illegal excavations in Niuheliang, a Neolithic site in Lingyuan province, in what the Ministry of Public Security has since called the biggest antiquities trafficking case since the founding of the People’s Republic in 1949.

According to reports, a main suspect in the sting, surnamed Yao, was able to look at a site and determine the best place to dig using his innate sense of feng shui. The past few years have seen an increase in surveillance and additional resources devoted to tracing offenders. Still, these efforts don’t exactly solve the main issue, namely the enormous profits at stake. China’s antiquities market has seen a boom in the past decade – driven, in part, by rising domestic wealth. In line with the contemporary art market, historical artifacts are now considered something of an investment opportunity among wealthy Chinese, whose hunger for desirable Mingera treasures is helping to fuel a thriving black market. So, while your RMB100 vase from the Panjiayuan antiques market may not exactly be a priceless piece of Ming Dynasty ceramic, it’s at least something to consider next time you’re bargaining. Dominique Wong

W.W. C . D . | C I T Y

A very close friend of mine has contracted a very rare neuropathic disease that causes him severe anguish and prevents him from being very active. I love my friend very dearly, and it saddens me a great deal to see him in such a bad way. But as his condition worsens, I am finding it very draining and stressful to be around him. I have become his main careprovider, especially since we both live so far from our families. I am worried that he is becoming too dependent on me. Am I selfish for wanting to spend less time with him?

Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom

WHAT WOULD CONFUCIUS DO

In fact, your question deals with the issue of friendship, in particular, how to be an ethical friend. ‘Ethics’ or more simply, ‘doing what is right,’ is a pillar of Confucianism. Confucius said, “A good man understands what is right, a small man understands what is profitable.” (Analects, chapter 4). Ethics and profits are often antithetical; sometimes the ethical decision abandons all monetary benefit, personal interest, or even – in extreme cases – life itself. I believe you know what is right, but I think you also know how to make the right choice. Again, you say you love your friend, but love requires action.Confucius emphasizes that the act of doing is essential in becoming a good person. When Zi Gong asked Confucius how to be a good person, Confucius replied: “Before you speak, you must act first, and then speak according to your actions.” (Analects,

chapter 2). This is an important lesson and teaches us the value of our actions. Words are nothing without actions. If you love your friend, you must act accordingly. So my friend, while you are finding it hard to be around your friend during this time, you can overcome these difficulties little by little, and in the end, a beautiful scene of reinvigorated friendship will greet you. I am hopeful for you and praying for your friend. Wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing Language and

Culture University, specializing in Chinese culture. His most recent book is entitled Teaching Methods of

Chinese Language and Traditional Culture . Send your ethical dilemma for Professor Wang to bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

Below | Only a select number of people were allowed access into Dajingmen Square, in the center of Zhanjiakou, to join in the official celebrations

The Strange and Muted Reaction to the 2022 Olympics

by Karoline Kan, Noelle Mateer, and Oscar Holland

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FE AT URE | CI T Y

K A R O L I N E K A N , I N Z H A N G J I A KO U It’s approaching 6pm on the outskirts of Dajingmen Square, in the center of Zhangjiakou. There is a sense of expectancy in the air – the accumulation of months of unguarded hype and government-backed publicity. Crowds are beginning to amass. Old people, families with small children, teenagers and curious office workers all jostle for space along the roadside. Despite being neither gifted with ideal skiing conditions, nor plentiful amounts of snow, Zhangjiakou has somehow become the odds-on-favorite to secure the nomination to host the 2022 Winter Olympics. The relatively obscure satellite city, that is competing in a dual bid with neighboring Beijing, has seen rivals Oslo, Krakow, Lviv and Stockholm slowly drop out from the race, leaving just Almaty in Kazakhstan as the only other contender. But as Beijing discovered in its failed bid to host the 2000 Summer Olympics, good odds do not guarantee success – and as the final countdown begins to the International Olympic Committee’s announcement, a police line forms around the main square, preventing the public from entering. It’s a strange move in a city that has publicly trumpeted the games for over a year – hanging banners, running televised ads and holding concerts. Why not let the public celebrate? The reason, according to event organizer Lin Bai, is concern over the possibility that the IOC might return an unfavorable verdict. “If you are the one who makes the decisions, you’d probably do the same,” he explains, apparently unaware of the crying children in the crowd, perplexed as to why they’ve been excluded from the festivities. “We have bad memories of 1993 – we prepared everything so perfectly, but at the last minute, Beijing failed. It was so embarrassing. We don’t want the same embarrassment and shame again.” Banned from the square – and out of sight of the assembled media – a sizable crowd begins to form, several hundred meters away on the other side of the road. I join a group lining a bridge – the highest publicly accessible point in the immediate area – in an attempt to see the big screens that have been set up in the square especially for the event. From my position, I am able to make out a small select audience, sat on little colored chairs, occasionally applauding in perfect unison. To the right of me, a father holds his son aloft above his head: “Can you see any better?” he asks. “No!” replies the son. Frustrated, most people revert to watching the live broadcast on their smart phones. “This is ridiculous!” exclaims an elderly man, to no one in particular. “I came here for the ceremony. What’s the point of standing here, when I could go home and watch it on the TV?” During my last trip to Zhangjiakou, just under a month before, Zhang Chunsheng, the executive director of the Zhangjiakou 2022 Winter Olympic Games Bidding Office, told me that the bid enjoyed the support of 90 percent of locals. It was, according to Zhang, one of the city’s major advantages. Perhaps organizers feared that after months of promoting the games, a win for Almaty might result in violence from the crowd. Whatever their concerns, they needn’t have worried. The IOC announcement is met with loud cheers from W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 1 1

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those gathered in the streets – as expected, Zhangjiakou has won. Li Minghao, a 54-year-old taxi driver, is among numerous drivers who pull over upon learning of the news to get out of their cars and join the celebrations. “I’m a little excited, of course! It’s the first time in history that Zhangjiakou is headline news,” says Li, of his city’s historic win. “I guess the question now, is will the house prices keep rising? And how much more money can I make!?” In a nearby street-side BBQ restaurant, 18-year-old cook Liu Qiren is similarly enthusiastic, if low key. “It was very exciting. When Beijing and Zhangjiakou were announced, everyone in the restaurant applauded. Although, within 20 minutes, everything went back to normal,” says Liu. Liu’s description of his celebration – alongside the strange scenes in the square – seem far removed from my own memories of the last time China won an Olympic bid. In 2001, the Internet was yet to become a major presence in people’s lives, and the majority of Chinese people depended on television to get their information. Propaganda around the Olympics still held a certain emotive power – the bidding process was much greater than the simple matter of securing the rights to host the Olympics; it was a matter of national importance. Winning was a first step in restoring China’s pride and overturning the country’s sense of humiliation. I remember clearly the moment when Juan Antonio Samaranch, the former president of the IOC, said the word “Beijing” – and how people rushed from their houses in my small Tianjin suburb, laughing and crying and overcome with jubilation: “We win! We win!” Maybe this time, the victory came a bit too easily. As those in the crowd had explained to me earlier in the evening: “Who else apart from China has the manpower and determination to hold these Games?” Whatever the reason, within minutes of the announcement, workmen begin packing up the official signage and deconstructing the LED screens. Event manager Lin Bin isn’t sure why everything has to be removed so quickly. “I’m just following orders from above,” he explains. “There's a strict plan we have to follow.” As the night wears on, and news of the win spreads, more people begin heading to the square. Most arrive assuming there will be a big party, fireworks, singing, dancing, a screen repeating footage of the historic moment, a night without sleep – things that have never happened in Zhangjiakou before. But none of this transpires. Instead, they watch as workers dismantle an event they were barred from entering. I meet back up with local taxi driver, 1 2 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Li Minghao, who by this time has grown frustrated. “For years, Zhangjiakou has been hiding behind Beijing as a little brother. I was thinking, today, finally, it could make its mark. But no. Our city doesn’t dare take the glory away from Beijing, not even today!” Li Minghao tells me that the only positive change brought about by the win is the possibility that the government might provide him with a new taxi, “the type that uses electricity, not gas.” As for the games itself, Li seems largely uninterested. “Skiing is not something that Chinese people do. We don’t have the tradition. And it’s so expensive that I will never be able to afford for my kid to take lessons, so what’s the point?” As Li speaks, I can’t help but think of Zhang Chunsheng, the executive director of the Zhangjiakou 2022 Winter Olympic Games Bidding Office, who three weeks previously had told me how “the Winter Olympics will boost skiing in China, creating a potential market of 300 million.” But who are these people, and where will they come from?

Right | Crowds hold a banner congratulating Zhanjiakou and Beijing on their Olympic success

"When Beijing and Zhangjiakou were announced, everyone in the restaurant applauded. Then, within 20 minutes, everything went back to normal"

N O E L L E M AT E E R , AT T H E B I R D ’ S N E S T On the afternoon of July 31, uproar breaks out at Beijing’s Olympic grounds. Two fireworks shoot off. Cheers erupt. Flags wave. And then it stops. “Damn, skiing’s going to be so much more expensive now,” says a spectator outside the Olympic Park gates. And that was the celebration of the 2022 Winter Olympics announcement. I had waited for the announcement in an attempt to compare 2015’s celebrations with those of 2001 – the year Beijing won the 2008 Summer Olympics host slot. Television footage from that night shows thenpresident Jiang Zemin smiling and waving

from the walls of the Forbidden City, as the most iconic square of the People’s Republic of China teemed with the People of China. To say a lot has changed since then is an understatement. I wasn’t in Beijing in 2001 – I was in the States listening to 98 Degrees on my cassette player – but I hoped, rather selfishly, that Beijing would win the 2022 Winter Olympics bid so that I could experience a similar celebration for myself. Instead, I ended up sipping RMB78 cocktails in the Beijing Intercontinental. Allow me to explain. Ahead of the announcement, I’d set off for the Olympic Park, which hadn’t been built in 2001, via Line 8 of the subway, which also hadn’t been built in 2001. Then, almost immediately upon exiting the station, I was stopped by a

security guard who was so young-looking, I wondered if he, too, had been made after 2001. “The park is closed today,” he says, adding that there are important government officials inside, though he can’t tell us who. I ask if there are any other entrances at which I can enter the park. With a laudable not-myjob attitude, the guard shrugs: “You can try.” After an exhausting walk around the perimeter of the park, (“This is investigative reporting!” I tell our intern, Vanessa), I finally see proof of celebrations to come: tiny red blurs, in the distance. Flags. Music. “That’s definitely Party music,” says Vanessa. We can’t get in, though. This isn’t a celebration for the People. And so Vanessa and I wait, peering at the edges along with a

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

"What announcement? Oh, I thought we’d won that ages ago"

handful of fellow rubberneckers. We quickly tire. There’s nothing to see, and so, with an hour until the fateful announcement, we look for somewhere to sit. I eye the grass in front of the Beijing Performance & Arts Center, but a fence indicates that it’s also not for the People. Then we see the Intercontinental. They’ll have wifi! we think. And so we approach. An unusually welcoming security guard points us inward. The hotel’s air-con surrounds us like a comforting embrace. Staff usher us toward the lounge, where we sit on a couch and peruse a menu of overpriced cocktails, including, but not 1 4 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

limited to, the ‘Bird’s Nest’ and the ‘Water Cube.’ I order a Water Cube. The fact that it comes in a giant glass cube is cool, but definitely not cool enough to warrant 78 kuai. Fuck it. I sip and gather my conclusions on Beijing 2001 v. Beijing 2015: Beijing 2015 is expensive. We leave just in time to return to the gates for the announcement. I use my camera’s zoom to try and make out what’s going on within. When the decision is announced, I ‘woo’ with a handful of other spectators by the park gates, and then the scene dies down. One man says: “It had to be Beijing. We knew it would be Beijing.” And then the

crowd begins to disperse. I wonder: Is everyone hanging out without me? At Tiananmen Square, perhaps? I catch the subway there, but the live news coverage streaming on the train’s TV proves I’m not missing much: a reporter is interviewing all five revelers gathered at the otherwise empty square. This has been exhausting and, frankly, kind of lame. So rather than continuing south to Tiananmen, I head east to Sanlitun, where I meet a friend for a beer. “What announcement?” she asks, as I explain where I’ve just come from. “Oh,” she says. “I thought we’d won that ages ago.”

O S C A R H O L L A N D, AT T H E K A Z A K H S TA N I E M BAS SY

I don’t know who ‘Julie’ at the Kazakhstani Embassy is. I’m not even certain she exists. All I know is that a) she’s the person I need to ask about watching the 2022 countdown with Kazakhstan’s Ambassador to China, and b) she’s never in the office when I call. “Call back at 4pm. Ask for Julie,” comes the initial snub, followed by the cut-and-paste response I receive on every subsequent call – “Julie not here. Call back at [insert time].” The pattern is finally broken on the day of the IOC’s announcement. “You’ve called the wrong number,” I am told, before receiving the final, fatal blow: “We’re too busy today.” Julie’s on holiday, apparently. All I really want is to spend the afternoon with a Kazakh. Because amid Olympics hysteria, we have neglected the underdog. Beijing’s mood of expectation – and unprecedented public support for hosting the games – makes it all too easy to ignore the credible efforts of Almaty. Although little-fancied, the city’s bid has all the requisite ingredients: venues within a 30km radius of the city, actual snow, and a tongue-in-cheek slogan poking fun at northeast China’s shortage of the stuff (‘Keeping it Real’). So what does Beijing’s Kazakhstani community make of its chances? Do people feel torn by the rivalry between their homeland and their adopted home? Still stinging from rejection (and with the announcement fast approaching), I make a last-ditch trip to Ritan Park. This is not simply to find people who look vaguely central Asian to interview (although I would resort to that) but because I’m in search of Beijing’s only Kazakhstani restaurant, Astana. The short walk from Ritan Beilu is a gauntlet of international restaurateurs lurking outside their establishments like hungry ghosts with moustaches. The grizzled proprietor of an Azerbaijani restaurant tries to lure me in with a well-honed sales pitch (“Azerbaijani fooood!”) before the owner of a Turkish place tries to tempt me with a cry of “Turrrkish fooood!” The latter gleefully informs me that the restaurant I am seeking has closed (suggesting that I might instead be interested in some “Turrrkish fooood!”). To his dismay, I press ahead and peer through the dusty glass-front of the late Astana. It looks as if the establishment was suddenly abandoned in the middle of a Nauryz feast. Above left | Elderly rsidents celebrate at the Bird ’ s Nest stadium in Beijing Right | The late Astana, once Beijing's only Kazakhstani restaurant

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CITY | F PE H AOTTUOREES S A Y

I glance back at the Turkish man. He looks vindicated. But I shan’t give up my search. If I’m not able to enjoy this historic moment with a glass of fermented mare’s milk and a steaming plate of quwyrdaq, then I’ll be damned if I’m going to eat kebabs. The embassy may be too busy to receive me, but I can always wait outside until some Kazakhs appear. There’s still about an hour until the decision is revealed, so I jump into a taxi and head to Sanlitun, furiously WeChatting friends to see who might know a Kazakh. It shouldn’t be this difficult to find someone. Even if I can’t find a Kazakhstani national I would happily talk to an ethnic Kazakh, one of China’s 56 recognized minorities. There are almost 1.5 million in the country, though, as I later discover, 85 percent live in Xinjiang. Yet, all is quiet at the embassy. Paranoid that the guards are suspicious of my lingering, I duck into the consulate where a waiting room TV is screening the ceremony. The man at the door informs me that there are no Kazakhs inside. I have failed. Left with nothing else but to sit and watch the decision here, I am offered some solace by the jovial consulate employee (a Hebeiren, though sadly not from Zhangjiakou) who allows me to stay in the

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waiting area. He is a good sport, agreeing to be photographed giving me a high-five after Beijing wins. Perhaps most helpfully, he reveals why I may have found it so difficult to interview a Kazakh on the Winter Olympics. “No-one here really cares that much.” █

Above | Oscar Holland celebrates Zhangjiakou's win, with a Hebei-born employee of the Kazak Consulate

CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY | CIT Y

ran bing luan \rán bĭng luăn\ 然并卵 conj (sort of). Despite everything, it doesn’t help at all/is completely useless/doesn’t do anyone any good I studied myself to death and passed the bar exam, ran bing luan, I still can’t become a lawyer. Why not?

I don’t have a Beijing hukou.

You can be a paralegal though.

Ran bing lua, I still can’t support my family on such a salary.

Ran bing luan is one of those ‘super abbreviations’ where a common sentence is shortened to the length of a word. Arguably the most used among them, ran bing luan, is short for 然而并没有什么卵用 , which translates as: ‘however, it was completely useless.’ It describes the type of situation where, despite one’s best efforts, absolutely no difference was made. We’ve all given something our all in an attempt to make it go a certain way. And we’ve all had the experience of seeing those efforts annihilated or go completely to waste without affecting the outcome in the slightest. Despite our best effort to diet, we are still getting fatter. Despite our best efforts at work, we still aren’t getting that promotion. Despite all the books and talks by self-help gurus, we still don’t have any upward social mobility. Ran bing luan describes those realities and the sense of powerlessness and

helplessness that follow, before it’s all covered up with a selfdeprecating laugh. (FYI – luan is the formal Chinese word for ‘egg’ and also an innuendo for the scrotum and/or testicles, so it is a profanity that expresses frustration.) Life in contemporary China is full of moments when you realize that no amount of effort would have made a difference. Too many games are rigged against us. To say ran bing luan is to acknowledge that nothing would have mattered anyway. It is not defeatist, but the process is necessary to pave the way toward acceptance and resilience. No matter how much our efforts are rendered futile, tomorrow is another day. By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in

Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

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Shop LG50, Indigo, No.18 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang - (+86 10) 8426 0408 Shop Units S2-14a-b,No.19 Sanlitun Road Chaoyang - (+86 10) 6417 6626 Shop 3B201, Zone 3, China World Mall, No.1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang - (+86 10) 8535 1055 W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 1 7

S T YLE RADAR

LIFE & STYLE COV E T

S P OT L I G H T

Kitchen Cosmetics

Amélie Peraud and Pierre-Yves Babin, Co-Founders of Tang’ Roulou

There’s nothing like a little down time. The best way to enjoy it? At home, watching The Wire for the fifteenth time, with a face mask on to show your polluted skin pores a little love. Forget the pallid, synthetically perfumed, expensively packaged stuff you’d find in Sephora though. Go DIY instead. Or, if you want to save some time, use any product from Shanghai-based cosmetic brand Lalu. Made with 100-percent natural ingredients, the concoctions span scrubs, body creams, masks and even beard balms for the gents. Our favorites for this cooler month are the charcoal face mask (RMB80/30g), a quick fix like few others when it comes to skin cleansing; the caffeine eye serum (RMB80/30ml), which gets rid of puffy eyes and eye bags; and the tropical sugar scrub (RMB98), like a fruity smoothie on your skin. Delicious and effective. > Email lalufood4skin@gmail.com or

call 136 2192 9535 to place your order.

— For those who don’t know: what’s Tang’ Roulou? Pierre-Yves: Tang’ Roulou is a brand of Chinese-inspired clothes for kids up to 10 years old, as well as gifts and accessories for newborn babies. We make all our pieces in Beijing, following the highest quality standards. — How did the brand come about? Amélie: Two years after I settled in Beijing, I started designing baby blankets that drew inspiration from the colorful ones you see hanging in the hutongs. I brought them back to my friends as presents for their kids. A few months later, I opened a 4sqm shop between the Drum and Bell towers. It got a lot of traction and, soon enough, Tang’ Roulou was born. — What does Tang' Roulou mean and why did you choose this name? Amélie: Tang’ Roulou is the French spelling for tanghulu ( 糖葫芦 ), the sugar-coated hawthorns that are a ubiquitous Beijing street snack. We felt the name, and the candied fruits themselves, reflected our Chinese inspiration because of their sweet taste, their red, happy color and the meaning of tanghulu ( 葫芦 – sugar gourd) in China. As traditional childhood candies, tanghulu also symbolize a memory, which is part of the original concept of Tang’ Roulou. — Your aesthetic in a nutshell. Pierre-Yves: Less is more. — How much of Beijing do you think shows up in your designs? Amélie: “Winter blue sky,” “hutong grey” and “China red” are some of Tang’ Roulou’s favorite colors, and very representative of Beijing. The

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city is pivotal to our creative process, but it’s not our only source of inspiration. Some of the stories behind our designs come from traveling to different Chinese provinces, from Guizhou and Ningxia to Fujian and Gansu. Pierre-Yves: Our most Beijinginspired design is Menpao, a handmade plaid featuring 20 knobs on it, just like the ones on the Forbidden City’s doors. — Who does what? Amélie: We always work together. Besides designing and branding, I work more on production and quality while Pierre-Yves takes care of sales and communication. All those fields are complementary, so we really work as a close team.

— What are you currently working on? Pierre-Yves: Watch out for new exhibitions from contemporary artists, both local and international, as well as some workshops and summer-related events. — Favorite places to hang out in the city. Pierre-Yves: We both have favorite parks in Beijing. Amélie likes Ritan, I love Beihai. Then of course there are the hutongs in Gulou and Dashilar. > 30 Sanlitun Bei Lu, inside Phoenix Design, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北

路 30 号 , 凤栖店内 (6416 9761, www. tangroulou.com, tangroulou.taobao. com)

Ed i t e d by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i /

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

MADE IN CHINA

Delectable Mani

The long-wearing, chip-proof results of gel manicures are impressive, but they have their downsides, too: they’re expensive and tough to remove. And they sometimes take away an entire afternoon you could have spent shopping/sleeping/meeting friends (or working, if you must). Well, things are about to change. You don’t need to book an appointment at a salon to score a manicure that’ll last. Just turn to DIY gel manicure kits instead. China-based start-up venture Le Mini Macaron (LMM) is the result of a successful Kickstarter campaign launched last January that promises a compact, handy and incredibly easy-to-use solution. The brand is the brainchild of Taiwanese-American Christina Kao and Frenchman Francois-Xavier Humbert, and these adorably packaged gel manicure sets boast a selection of pretty hues and a

macaron-shaped, USB-powered LED lamp. Colors range from grape purple and hot pink to bright red and luscious caramel, though LMM started a new Kickstarter drive last month to develop new shades and products like scented hand cream, travel pouches and remover kits (for now, you get 10 with each gel kit to begin with).

> RMB249 for the kits, RMB90 for a single gel polish bottle and RMB110 for the remover kits; Purchase LMM kits at their Weidian store.

OV E R H E A R D

UNDER THE LENS

K-fashion

“ IT’S NOT EASY TO GET SO MANY BIG NAMES TOGETHER FOR A COVER SHOOT, AND NOT EASY TO MAKE THEM ALL LOOK UGLY AT THE SAME TIME TOO " A Chinese netizen commenting on the overly photoshopped covers of Vogue China’s September issue, which marks the tenth anniversary of the fashion glossy. Famed photographer Mario Testino was asked to shot 10 iconic Chinese actresses for two covers (golden and silver) that pay homage to the Hollywood glamour of the 30s and 40s while showcasing a few Chinese elements. The excessive airbrushing and retouching, however, has sparked a series of snarky remarks from Internet users, with many complaining that the celebs look so different from real life they can’t even recognize them.

Korean fashion is having a moment. Trends and style fads from the Land of the Morning Calm are, increasingly, huge hits among fashion markets in other Asian countries, especially China. We aren’t just talking about K-pop-style haircuts. Korean accessories, footwear and apparel are some of the most sought-after products among stylish Asian urbanites, and young Korean designers are some of the most interesting talents to have entered the industry in recent times. This year alone, the International Woolmark Prize (a worldwide competition dedicated to discovering upcoming ‘it’ designers) has seen a Korean takeover, with two Korean creatives, Munsoo Kwon and J Koo, chosen to represent the entire Asia region. Expect K-style to be all over the streets of London and New York soon. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 1 9

LIFE & S T Y LE | FASHION

Runway inspiration Dries Van Noten

Oversized coats The statement overcoat has never been stronger. Whether single- or double-breasted, the most popular coat of the season is cut from wool and with a soft shoulder, for a slouchy, oversized vibe.

Runway inspiration Fendi

Supersized pockets The man bag is so 2014. This year, it's all about huge pockets. Not only will they prove great to store all your daily necessities, but they'll also be the focus of your next piece of outerwear, cut from conspicuously contrasting fabrics and sewn on in prominent positions.

Runway inspiration Hackett London

Runway inspiration Burberry Prorsum

Shearling galore A classic menswear material, shearling will make a prominent appearance on the high street this winter. What's different than usual is the way it is deployed: not only as a coat lining, but also on sneakers, bags and jumpers.

Any green goes Grey is actually the king color this winter, but green beats off stiff competition from orange pink and blue as the secondmost popular hue for the chilly months. All shades accepted, from army to forest to mint.

Runway inspiration Stella McCartney

Fake fur Soft, fluffy and cruelty-free, fake furs will lend a ladylike touch to most outfits (as long as you don't pair them with your gym pants). Stoles, big coats, shearling jackets - anything goes.

COS RMB1,900 > www.cosstores.com

H&M RMB599 > www.hm.com

River Island RMB590.92 > www.asos.com

H&M RMB499 > www.hm.com

H&M RMB1,499 > www.hm.com

Zara RMB1,799 > www.zara.cn

Paul Smith RMB2,556.86 > www.asos.com

Base London RMB1,136.38 > www.asos.com

Topman RMB310 > www.topman.com

ASOS RMB397.73 > www.asos.com

Runway inspiration Victoria Beckham

Winter’s Coming

Runway inspiration Valentino, Saint Laurent, Emilio Pucci

WRAP UP

Runway inspiration J.W. Anderson, Rodarte, Louis Vuitton

by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

80s Redux Believe it or not, the good-times look of the eighties has officially made a comeback. Expect bold and brash ensembles, Lurex, patent leather, quilt, neon and velvet to be your party attire of choice.

Black and white (a la Cruella de Vil) Checks, stripes, diamonds, zebra print, you name it. Graphic black and white will be all over the shops this fall.

Turtlenecks This utilitarian staple was all over the catwalks at fashion weeks around the globe. And the good news is, you don’t even have to shop, because there is definitely one in the back of your wardrobe somewhere.

COS RMB890 > www.cosstores.com

Zara RMB299 > www.zara.cn

H&M RMB399 > www.hm.com

Missy Skins RMB7,599 > missyskins.com

Topshop RMB465 > www.topshop.com

Topshop jumper RMB425 > www.topshop.com

It’s September, which in planet fashion means there’s a whole new look fast approaching. If you want to know what everyone will be wearing this autumn/winter, top fashion mags are required reading. Can’t be bothered skimming through the billions of ads and ultra expensive photo-shoots of the big guns? Worry not. We’ve dug through this month’s bumper editions of Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and GQ to pick the runway trends that will be making the biggest impact on our wardrobes this fall. From graphic black and white, hard-hitting punk, military styling and an eighties comeback, here’s your cheat sheet to ‘cold’ fashion.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 1

BEIJING STYLE THE CITY'S BEST-DRESSED MEN FALL 2015

BY MARIANNA CERINI / IMAGES BY HOLLY LI Think Beijing isn’t a hotbed of style? Think again. The city might not have the breadth of London’s sartorial culture, or the on-trend hipster vibe of New York, but, increasingly, it’s showing a fashion edginess hard to find anywhere else. Two months ago, we brought you Beijing’s bestdressed women for summer 2015. This month, we’ve turned our pages over to the men. Whether it’s a punk rock musician with skinny jeans and tattoos, or Don Draper-esque personages sporting the very best tailor made suit, these guys know how to work it Beijingstyle.

FE AT URE | LIFE & S T Y LE

Founder of Principle M

Justin Kwan

— What are you wearing today? The jacket is from Italian brand Drapers, and it’s a wool, silk and linen blend. The shirt is a linen cotton blend I’ve had made-to-measure by my designers, and the tie is a vintage piece from Italy I found on Taobao. The trousers are Irish linen, also Principle M. The shoes are Meermin loafers. — What's Principle M? A made-to-measure clothing brand here in Beijing. We do tailored separates, but also a lot of styling and consulting for guys who want to improve their image, or work on their style cred. Hence why I have to be pretty put together myself on a day-today basis. — What's hot, suit-wise, for the coming Beijing winter? Neutral colors and earthy hues – quite the opposite of hot! I feel like things are cooling down a bit in general – just look at the yuan devaluation and the Chinese economy. Men's sartorial choices seem to be following the market. — How would you describe your style? A mix of function and sartorial class. I usually always wear one tailored piece – whether it’s a vest, a jacket or trousers – but I work around what I am doing too. — Give us a style tip for the gents. Mind your shoes. They can make or break an outfit. — Does Beijing influence your wardrobe at all? Absolutely. Beijing is pretty rough around the edges, so my clothes have to adapt to it. Jeans and boots do that very well, but also a monochromatic palette, to reflect the city’s grayness. — What would you be never caught wearing? Quite a few things actually. Tank tops are a big no. So are baggy, low-cut trousers – no man should wear a pair past age 14. And don't get me started on white socks… — The perfect Beijing suit would be..? For a formal occasion, a sturdy English cloth, in charcoal, with built-up shoulders and chest to give it more of a hard feeling. If you're mixing it up, maybe a softer jacket with jeans. More relaxed. Two opposite ends of the spectrum, but that’s Beijing, isn’t it?

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LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

Marlon Ma

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Freelance PR Consultant

— Your style in three words. Classic, elegant, fun. I don’t care, really. I wear what I like and what I think works for me. Style is about owning whatever you’re going out in. It’s all about being confident – and not worrying about what other people think. — Guide us through your outfit. The jacket and vest are from my tailor, Li Na – I have been using him for three years, so he knows what I like – while the tie and pocket square are from Banana Republic. The sunglasses are your photographer’s, but I'm borrowing them for the shoot! They fit me quite well, don’t you think? — Is this your signature look? Pretty much. I love wearing three pieces – vest, shirt and trousers – but mixing different patterns or elements. I like contrast, turning classic menswear attire into something a little edgier. — What do you like about Beijing? It's a city with a soul. It’s hippy and full of people that work non-profit or do things just for fun. That’s quite difficult to find, particularly in China. Plus people wear all different kinds of shit, which makes it pretty interesting. — Sanlitun or Gulou? Definitely Sanlitun. — What would be your perfect Beijing day? The perfect day would be a Saturday, just after a huge rainstorm. There’s no pollution at all, it’s clear blue sky and I don't have a hangover. I’d go for brunch at Nuo Hotel or the Westin, then for a manicure with some girl friends. After that, I’d have a date, maybe at Cantina Agave because they’re one of my clients. The night would then continue at First Floor, Migas and Hush. If I’m still standing at the end of all that, I’d have to wrap things up and start the next day at The Den, for breakfast.

FE AT URE | LIFE & S T Y LE

— Tell us about your style, both on a music and personal level. Music-wise, I dig Eastern elements and old traditional stuff quite a lot. I like to mix that into contemporary tracks. My personal style is just simple. Gold chain – though not hiphop heavy gold chains! – white or black tees, a cap. I’m lazy, and that’s reflected in the way I dress. — What are you wearing today? Black tee and shorts, Nike shoes, some glasses I bought in Korea and a Breton Cire hat. The gold chain is from my mum. — What led you to become a DJ? I was playing in a rock band five or six years back, and we started experimenting with other music genres. I discovered dance and electronic music that way, and decided it was more like what I wanted to do. — Where do you play in Beijing? Dada, in Gulou, mostly. I still DJ but I'm currently working on my own album and live performances. — Is Beijing a good place to be a DJ? People don’t really see DJs as performers here yet, which is kind of frustrating. We help bring all these tracks and beats you wouldn’t hear otherwise, but the public doesn’t consider us real artists. — Does Beijing inspire you? Oh yes. Beijing looks like this mad, futuristic place. A shitty reality we escape from in our man-made environments, our apartments with air purifiers and all that. This weird futuristic aspect is definitely in my music too.

DJ and Electronic Music Artist

Howie Lee W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 5

LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

Sai Li Lead Singer of Steely Hearts

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— For those who don’t know: What’s Steely Hearts? A dance-punk Beijing band I started with guitarist Wang Yue about nine years ago. We do a mix of garage rock and electronic. — Do you follow a specific way of dressing? I like to look like my favorite artists – Iggy Pop for instance – and follow their fashion code. — Is that what you’ve done with this outfit? More or less. This is what I normally wear, or when I perform. My friend, who works for a music company, designed the shirt. The hat is a gift from another friend, who also made it for me. The rings are also from a friend – he got them in Singapore. The shoes are from a British brand called Underground, and yes, they’re also a present from another lovely friend. I know a few people. — How does Beijing influence your artistic process? I was born and raised here. The city is a cradle of different styles – and I take inspiration from all of them. Punk and rock are definitely a big influence on my music though. — If Beijing were a Steely Heart song, which one would it be? I’d say 'Dragon King.' It’s a song about our lives as artists in Beijing. Hanging out in bars and chatting about things. — What’s your favorite area in the city? Gulou. It’s where I grew up. Also, the music scene is pretty sick there. — Would you ever leave? No. Beijing is where my home is.

FE AT URE | LIFE & S T Y LE

Julien Tang Video Producer, Filmmaker, Musician and Entrepreneur

— Where did you get this suit? I bought the material at a fabric shop in Chaowai back in 2012, then went to the now-defunct Yashow to have it made. It was supposed to be for performing on stage with my band, You're Not Invited. I still remember the incredulous face of the Yashow tailors – they couldn't believe I was actually asking them to make me a three-piece suit out of plastic. One of them offered to take up the job, and here we are. Pretty neat, no? — What is style for you? An attitude, more than anything else. We’re all wearing costumes of some sort. Some people just like to take it further than others, and that makes them stand out. — You grew up in France. What brought you to Beijing? Many reasons – a girl, but also the desire to just experience something new. I moved here from Paris in 2008, at a time when I wanted to break from the past and see what new challenges and risks I could take. China has proved the perfect place to do that. I've organized exhibitions, run a magazine, put on film festivals. It’s been a constant learning curve. — How do you think Beijing influences your approach to art and life? Beijing is pretty tough, and it definitely made me tougher too. I like to think of it as a filthy drug: it’s bad for your health, your behavior, your almost everything – yet it's addictive. Every time you are away from it you become aware you don’t really want to go back. The moment you do, though, all you can think is, “I want more.” — If Beijing were a film, which one would it be? The one I'm writing now. I can't say much except that it's about young people, slightly on the crazy side. Partly musical. Weird. Just like Beijing.

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L IF E & S T Y L E | A R R I VA L S

SCENE & HEARD

wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

K N E W Z A BA

A concept store of sorts, Knewzaba, which was formerly located on Baochao Hutong, has recently relocated to the basement of a courtyard a stone’s throw away from 4Corners. Here, it replicates its formula of eclectic shop-cum-cafe, mixing solid cups of joe with niche designer objects and vintage trinkets that are rough around the edges, completely random or downright bizarre. A bit of a hoarder, owner Lao Yu has turned the space into a showroom for his personal collection, which currently features retro-looking fixies, skull-shaped ornaments, sturdy vintage purses, tea sets and oh-sohipster accessories, though not everything is for sale. Upstairs, in the courtyard, you can come fix your two-wheel or look at buying a new one. Different location, same old funky vibe: go check it out on your next trip to that side of Gulou.

> 6 Xiaoshibei Hutong, Xicheng 西城区小石碑胡同 6 号

SCENTIQUE

You won’t find Molten Brown, Kiehl’s, Bliss or any other major product line in Nali Patio’s newly opened fragrance shop Scentique. Specializing in artisanal perfumes that you’re unlikely to find anywhere else in Beijing, Scentique is pitching itself as a highend-type place. Unfortunately, the store’s shiny apothecary – all glass, marble flooring and golden details – screams 'tuhao' (read: crass) rather than 'tres chic.' Nonetheless, the selection on offer is surprisingly quite sophisticated, with bottles from niche perfume houses like French Evody and The Different Company, Italian Fiore d’Ulivo and American SixScents. Should you need to spritz your wrists with something other than Mademoiselle by Chanel or Dior’s J’Adore, this closet-sized venture is your place.

> A103B, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路 81 号那里花园 (5208 6170)

A N YS H O P S T Y L E

Started as a China-centric e-tailer and fashion platform back in 2012 (when it was AnyWearStyle.com), AnyShopStyle is, currently, one of Beijing’s most refreshingly interesting shops. The boutique first set up a brick-and-mortar presence in Parkview Green, and has recently expanded into Sanlitun’s Taikoo Li South with a fullyfledged flagship. Featuring cobalt blue walls, an airy interior and an artfully curated selection of garbs, the store is the perfect place to go if you need to overhaul and upgrade your entire work and party wardrobes. While the online venture specialized in Chinese designers, the offline shop offers both local and international brands (though fashion made and designed in the PRC is still very much the focus). Opt for nonchalant-chic styles such as draped, billowing dresses by Elyse Yang, deconstructed pieces by Bai Peng or delicate ensembles by Awaylee that pack edge and femininity aplenty. Accessories span quirky rings, chunky bracelets and versatile bags – we are in love with the totes of Italian label Ohmai, which are reversible and ever so cool. Prices start around RMB1,000.

> S1-16 Taikoo Li Sanlitun South, 19 Sanlitun Lu,

Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 19 号太古里南区 S1-16 (130

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PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

4117 8730, www.anyshopstyle.com)

HE A LT H | L IF E & S T Y L E

DOCTOR HONG, BEIJING’S LEADING DERMATOLOGIST In a city such as Beijing – where environmental conditions can be harsh and pollution levels high – taking care of your skin is an important business. At the Zell BeauCare clinic, that business is transformed into an art. Under the expert eye of Beijing’s leading dermatologist (and the Mainland’s only Fellow of the American Society for Dermatological Surgery) Doctor Hong, patients are offered the latest in specialist cosmetic treatments. We meet with Doctor Hong to find out more. “In China, the medical training system is different to the West, so I chose to focus on dermatology at Peking University – where I studied for seven years, while practicing at PUMC Hospital,” explains Doctor Hong, of how he first entered the profession. “And then in the early 2000s, I received a fellowship from Duke University in North Carolina in the US, and from there I was given the opportunity to become a clinical fellow at the University of Miami’s Cosmetic Center – the biggest university-administered cosmetic center in the States.” At that time, cosmetic dermatology was very much in its early stages around the

world. “Yes, we had laser treatment for skin rejuvenation, and hair removal, but new devices such as fillers and injections were not easily available outside of very specialist centers – such as Miami.” It wasn’t until 2005 that these products started becoming more widely available, but only in the West. “When I returned to China in 2009, we only had one filler available. No thermage or fraxel [fillers], or lasers. But there was a growing demand – that’s when people Chinese first started traveling to places like South Korea for treatment.” In South Korea, Doctor Hong, estimates that as many as 60 to 70 percent of women aged 20 to 50 have had some form of cosmetic procedure, while in China, that figure falls to less then 10 percent. “Most of our clients here have a very high level of education, often overseas. They’re typically in their 30s and 40s. Around 90 percent are women. Most simply want to look younger – they don't want to change their appearance, they are happy with their faces, they just wish to look like a better version of their selves.” Doctor Hong also works one day a week

Everyday is something of an adventure for Adrian Rudin, general manager of the newly opened NUO Hotel. After 14 years at the Shangri-La, working in Hong Kong, Singapore and the Middle East – where he opened two hotels – and two years at Beijing’s famous Summit Wing, Rudin has assumed responsibility of what is arguably the most ambitious Chinese hotel to date – and he’s loving every minute of it. “When I was given the offer to join NUO, I thought to myself, why not take the plunge? It was an opportunity to launch an international brand and start a new hotel which, in this industry, is quite exciting – not everybody gets the chance to do this.” Owned and operated by the state-owned Beijing Tourist Group, NUO promises to ‘pioneering Chinese Luxury Hospitality.’ It’s a bold claim, but one that Rudin confidently backs. “The hotel is eight years in the making – it was planned in great detail. We’re an international hotel, but with strong Chinese characteristics. So for example, we borrow

a lot of Ming dynasty inspired design, and of course, the philosophy – which is very Chinese. “Most guests will recognize immediately, that the hotel is of an international quality, but it’s the little touches that distinguish us. We have an exceptional Chinese restaurant, our own tea brand and our own spa line.” Rudin, who has taken personal responsibility in helping to shape the look and feel of the hotel, is now looking beyond China. “The idea is to go international – and fairly quickly. We’re aiming at cities like London, New York, Paris, Rome and looking at investing in properties. The company has a big vision, and that’s part of the attraction.” Rudin’s enthusiasm for his job is contagious, and it’s obvious why he was selected to spearhead the brand’s expansion – not that it’s been by any means easy so far. “This is now my fourth hotel I’m opening, so I’m used to the process,” says Rudin. But if you work for an international hotel, it’s simple compared to this. You get your

as a cosmetic consultant at United Family Hospital. “I find it very interesting, as foreigners tend to have a very different set of requests – in terms of what they want to achieve. Most Chinese patients are looking for fuller cheeks and change in pigmentation, rather than tightening.” Doctor Hong’s clinic focuses on noninvasive and minor invasive procedures, such as botox, laser rejuvenation – especially for acne scars and enlarged pores – chemical peels, radio frequency body shaping, skin tightening procedures, thread lifting and other professional skin care treatments. “We use only the very best import products in line with international standards. It’s our aim to bring the very best, safest procedures to the widest audience in Beijing.” Mon-Sat; Unit 2002，1/F, Vantone Center, 6A

Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街甲 6 号万通中心 AB 座 1 层 2002 [59073390]

ADRIAN RUDIN, GENERAL MANAGER OF NUO HOTEL

website, your booking channels, your global distribution channels. It all just works – because the corporation deals with it. They make it work. And then you come in and learn the systems, train your people – and open your hotel. Job done! “But here, we had to design our own website, create our own booking channels, connect with global hotel alliances. There’s still a lot of marketing work to be done, which keeps us pretty busy. To get everyone to know the hotel is very difficult, as it’s a stand-alone hotel. But that’s part of the fun!” No.2A,Jiangtai Road,Chaoyang District,Bejing 北京市朝阳区将台路甲 2 号 (5926 8888)

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COLLAGE W H AT ’ S N E W

DRUMROLL

Idle Motion

China has an odd relationship with Big Bang Theory. The American hit series was among the first shows to be removed from online streaming services last year, after it fell foul of regulation efforts. It is now the first to return since new rules were introduced requiring all foreign shows to be approved. Season eight is available at tv.sohu.com.

Lost in Thailand may no longer hold the title as the highest grossing Chinese film of all time, but director Xu Zheng is hoping to reclaim the crown with the series’ third installment, Lost in Hong Kong. The brandnew story sees Bao Bei’er’s character suffer a mid-life crisis that promises to be uproarious. Out in cinemas Sep 25.

The protection of domestic films at movie theaters has ended for the year, so there’s a flurry of Hollywood hits coming our way. Tom Cruise returns in Mission Impossible: Rogue Nation on Sept 8, while this month will also see new Marvel franchise Ant-Man (Sep 18), Despicable Me spinoff Minions (Sep 13), and Adam Sandler’s latest flick Pixels (Sep 15). 3 0 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

British theater company Idle Motion mixes inventive stage theatrics with engaging stories from the past. After bringing the production Borges and I to Beijing last year, the group is back for a fifth tour of China. We talk to Director Kate Stanley about the group’s new show Shooting with Lights, which unveils the little-known story of photojournalists Gerda Taro and Robert Capa. — On the show’s inspiration… We first had the idea of making a show about photography when we learnt that since [the camera’s] invention, people have collectively taken over 3.5 trillion photographs. This was staggering to us and we became inspired to explore why we are compelled to take photographs and capture our lives. — On the photojournalists Robert Capa and Gerda Taro… They were both European refugees who travelled to the Spanish Civil War together. While many people knew who Capa was, noone we spoke to had heard of Gerda Taro. We wanted to tell the story of how she went from being a young German refugee in Paris to one of the pioneers of photojournalism. They were both extraordinary people, but we were inspired by how forward-thinking and independent Gerda was for a young woman at the time.

— On the show’s story… We track Gerda from arriving in Paris in 1934 to meeting Andre Friedman [Capa’s birth name] and learning how to take photographs. We then follow their first assignment capturing the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War and their experiences of war. There’s also a narrative that follows the missing suitcase that contained a lot of Tardo and Capa’s negatives from the time that was lost in 1939. — On visual inventiveness Shooting with Light has a very striking lighting design and soundscape. It’s our boldest show technically. The set is able to transform from a 1930s Parisian cafe into a battle in the Spanish Civil War. We were lucky enough to be granted the rights to Taro’s photographs, [so we] project these images onto the set, adding another dimension as the audience. — On upcoming plans… When we get back from China, we’ll begin making our next show The State We’re In. It opens in London in 2016 with themes inspired by Frestonia, a 1970s squat in London which declared itself independent from Great Britain.

> Sep 8-12, 7.30pm; RMB180-300; National Center for the Performing Arts 2 Xi Chang ’ an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街 2 号 (400 610 3721, en.damai.cn)

C A N VAS S E D

Xie Zhengli, ‘There and Ever’

‘There and Ever’ is the second solo showing from the promising Sichuanese artist, Xie Zhengli, who presents a body of work created over the last six years. As with her debut exhibition, a subtle melancholia permeates her paintings, which are dedicated to flora and fauna.

Her distinctive flashes of color bring to life something altogether darker.

> Free; Aug 8 – Oct 22; Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm; Nuoart, B07, 706 North First Street, 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 2 号 798 艺术区 706 北一街 B07 (5716 3852 www.nuoart.com)

H AO B U H AO

Hao

Bu Hao

After a record-breaking summer at the Chinese box office, domestic film now has a new mega-hit. Starring Bai Baihe and directed by Shrek the Third’s Raman Hui, the live animated Monster Hunt has charmed the nation. In just over a month, it has grossed more than USD356 million, trailing only Fast 7 as the most successful film released in China.

Jackie Chan may be an action movie legend, but these days his feet keep landing in his mouth. With his son Jaycee now released from prison, Papa Chan suggested to reporters: “I should set up a jail holiday, forcing some rich people, even myself, to go to jail. These days, all people need to do this because they’re so busy.” Indeed. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 3 1

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MARTIAL LAW

Muse are Bringing Drones to China by A n d re w C h i n

“The ultimate goal would be to play a concert in space”

Given this month’s military parade in Beijing, it seems fitting that Muse arrive to showcase a heady concept album inspired by modern military warfare. Drones, their seventh studio offering, follows a young, disillusioned protagonist who becomes a drone operator. Co-produced by Mutt Lange (AC/DC, Def Leppard, Shania Twain), the record evokes Orwell in its subject matter, Broadway in its theatrics and Queen in frontman Matt Bellamy’s soaring falsetto. “Matt always had a pretty good idea that this album was going to be very conceptual,” says bassist Christoper Wolstenholme. “The basic concepts for the album were there right from the start. It was always the case of making sure that the lyrics were strong enough to back up the concept.” Big statement albums will always have their detractors, yet Drones steered itself to the top of the charts in 21 countries, securing the band’s fifth straight UK number 1 album and their first in the US. But while the disc is more experimental in concept, it returns the band to simper times, having flirted with orchestral and electronic sounds on recent albums The Resistance and The 2nd Law. “[We always knew] this album was going 3 2 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

to be more rock,” Wolstenholme explains. “We felt it was time for us to strip things back a little. Ultimately we are a three-piece rock band. Along the way we have tried to bring fresh influences into our sound, while at the same trying to retain the trio vibe.” Despite scaling back in the studio, Muse should still be at their flamboyant best on stage. Described as the “greatest living act in the world today” by Queen’s Brian May and Roger Taylor, the group spent the summer headlining festivals across the world. Their last world tour featured a gigantic pyramid of LED screens, acrobats, lasers and cannons shooting Muse-themed bank notes into the crowd. Frontman Bellamy has expressed interest in having drones fly over the crowd during the upcoming tour. It is unclear whether he’s aware that drone sales have been suspended in Beijing this month. In any case, Wolstenholme opts for a more anodyne teaser for their Beijing date: “It will be more of an overview of all our albums.” “The set can change a lot,” he continues. “Visuals have always been a big part of our show. We always feel that as there are only three of us, we need something for the crowd to look at. With the new album there

is a very strong concept that runs through the record which will be reflected in some of the visuals.” Having already conquered massive festivals from Glastonbury to Coachella, no stage is too big for Muse. They famously performed in front of over 60,000 people at Rome Olympic Stadium with the 2013 concert screened theatrically across 20 cities in the world. Beijing remains one of the few cities that the trio have yet to conquer. As Wolstenholme notes: “There are still countries we haven’t played, particularly in Asia and Africa,” before revealing a dream as realistic as obtaining approval for drone use in Beijing: “The ultimate goal would be to play a concert in space.” Sep 19, 8pm, RMB360-1,280. Mastercard Center,

Intersection of Fuxing Lu and Xisihuan, Wukesong 万事达中心 , 海淀区复兴路 69 号 (400 610 3721, en.damai.

cn)

We’re giving away a pair of tickets to Muse on WeChat add Thats_Beijing and look out for competition details.

UNDERGROUND | ARTS

GOING UNDERGROUND in Association with Wooozy.cn by S o p h i a Pe d e r s o n

There’s nothing cooler than leather jackets, tattoos and bass cello. Luckily, there’s no shortage of those in Beijing, especially when it comes to Rockabilly. This small but burgeoning scene has been alive and kickin’ for quite some time now. Musically, it is a bit of a precursor to standard rock, and draws inspiration from southern country, blues and jazz. It’s not all about music though – rockabilly, arguably more than any music genre, runs a pretty tight culture game, where fashion is as important as the sound itself. Looks-wise, think Grease, Great Balls of Fire, The Outsiders or American Graffiti. R O L L I N G B OW L I N G Recently signed to indie record label Modern Sky, Rolling Bowling are probably the most recognizable name in Chinese Rockabilly. They tour relentlessly and can often be seen around town at Jianghu or School Bar, as well as festivals – and even the occasional European tour date for good measure. These decked-out boys are all killer (fedoras, leather shoes, white wife-beaters and dark pressed slacks), no filler when they hit the stage, but that’s only half of it – pay special attention to the audience too. Their fans – sporting leather jackets, bright scarves, polka dots, and lots of eyeliner and tattoos – are equally as mesmerizing to watch as the band themselves. Listen: rollingbowling.bandcamp.com

5 M I N U T E S W I T H DAV I E W E N F R O M R O C K A B I L LY BA N D I C Y W H I S K E Y How did Icy Whiskey come about? We started the band in January 2013. I’d been playing in various bands for a while, and then I saw Rolling Bowling (then known as ‘Defy’) in 2012 for the first time, and they just spoke to me, you know?! Changed everything! Who are your biggest musical influences? Elvis Presley and Stray Cats. Those guys are untouchable. Do you think fashion is important to the rockabilly culture? It’s especially important. Leather jackets and shoes, white shirts, hairstyles. It’s more than just music, its a lifestyle choice. You go all in. But it’s not restricting, it’s really free. There’s a lot of innovation too. A lot of room to be yourself… and rock out. Listen: site.douban.com/icywhiskey See them play: September 9, 8.30pm; MAO Livehouse (see Listings for details)

Mr. Honey Relative newcomers to the rockabilly scene in Beijing, these young upstart gunslingers started in November 2013 and are a sweet, but all-too-rare treat when spotted around town. Listen: site.douban.com/mrhoney

T WO M O R E T H I N G S

DH & The Chinese Hellcats The best-looking rockabilly band in China. Front woman Dizzy Hemmy is a sight to behold in both Western and Eastern vintage dresses, backed by a band of men in pinstripe suits and slicked back hair. Listen: site.douban.com/dh

Going Underground with Wooozy is a monthly column written by Sophia Pederson, exploring the Chinese rock scene. About Wooozy: Launched in April 2009, Wooozy.cn is a Chinese-language online specialist music site, focusing on the latest and best underground and mainstream sounds from China and beyond.

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One of Bass Musicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brightest Talents has a Soft Spot for Chinese Slushies

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I’ll let you in on a trade secret: The first five minutes of interviews with international DJs coming to Beijing are normally pretty boring. This isn’t necessarily the artists’ fault. It’s just that because they are making such a long journey, it seems only fair to dedicate an ice-breaker to the old classic – ‘Have you been to China before?’ (Spoiler alert: Most haven’t and are uniformly excited about doing so. Those who have are uniformly positive about their shows, Chinese food and visiting the Great Wall.) But it doesn’t always go down that way. Because not only is British producer Sam Binga pushing the boundaries of up-tempo electronic music at home, he’s also rewriting my interview openers. “Yeah, I spent six months in Shanghai on an exchange [in 1999] when I was 18 or 19,” he reveals. “Our campus dormitory would lock the gate at 11 at night and not open it till 6. So if you went out, you went out all night. Just for jokes we used to go this club called Real Love on Hengshan Lu and it was absolute cheese – they had karaoke booths and played [Dutch Eurodance band] Vengaboys. Then we’d go bowling until 2am and onto some little weird techno club in a basement somewhere.” The experience may not have been formative in a musical sense. But Binga’s stint in China left a lasting impact that few are aware of – his stage name, which is a combination of his birth name, Sam Simpson, and a China-inspired moniker he’d used while making breakbeat through the oo’s. “In Shanghai, I used to buy this pineapple slushy drink that they called a ‘baobinga,’” he recalls, while admitting he’d thought the word meant ‘pineapple’ rather than ‘shaved ice’ (baobing). “When I did my first demo, way back in the day, I couldn’t think of a name for myself. So I was like ‘what’s that weird drink I had in Shanghai?’ – I’ll call myself Baobinga. “I thought: ‘If I get signed I’ll think of a

better name.’ But the label was like: ‘Love the tunes, we wanna sign them – and we think the name’s great.’ I was stuck with it for so long!” A belated switch of aliases in 2012 marked a change of direction for the Manchesterborn producer. Upping the tempo, he began fusing drum ‘n’ bass (“the music I grew up on”) with an assortment other influences, most notably footwork, crunk and dirty south. In doing so, he joins a growing clique of British artists credited with revitalizing electronic music in the 160-170bpm range. Binga’s productions both embrace and shun the typical devices found in drum ‘n’ bass. He treads a similar line in conversation, championing a new sound without distancing himself from the genre. “There are elements of it in what I do. And there are a lot of people who just do ‘strict’ drum n bass and do it super, super well, so I don’t want to be the one saying ‘I’m something else,’” he explains. “It’s more that the production levels in DnB are so high now – perfection really – that I’m not sure I could compete. The engineering is perfect, the tunes are gonna make people dance and you can mix it. “There are certain things that producers can do that will definitely get a reaction. So for me, the way to stand out is to not do those things and see if I can still get a reaction.” Simpson’s homage to the scene may just be an act of diplomacy. But he appears to possess both a genuine love for straightup drum ‘n’ bass and a dislike for mincing his words (“psy-trance is the worst music – there’s no fun, the production is really clean and boring, and it attracts idiots”). It seems he just wants to do things a little differently. “People are trying stuff at slower tempos,” he continues. “You have people like Fracture or Om Unit [under the alias] Phillip D. Kick slowing things back down to 160 – so you can mix in old jungle tunes and footwork with that. Then you have people like Chimpo, who has a real dancehall influence. There’s

just a lot of interesting stuff in that tempo range that doesn’t follow the classic tropes of what DnB has gotta be.” His articulation of this up-tempo vanguard reads like a list of artists brought to China by The Syndicate in recent months. It also reads like a list of people Simpson has collaborated with on joint releases. In fact, he is so prone to working with other artists that he considers Nuh Chat EP, released at the start of 2015, to be his first solo record. “That was my first solo EP so it felt like people were watching and I had to come through with something good,” he explains, though he needn’t have worried. The record – which features a genre-bending collection of energetic yet intricately layered drum patterns – was well received by critics. The vinyl edition sold out soon after release. Just how ‘solo’ Nuh Chat really was is up for debate. Its five tracks include an appearance from Deft (another recent Syndicate booking), a remix by Russian producer Enei, and three features from Bristol MC Redders. Simpson hints that his forthcoming album Wasted Days will follow in a similar vein: “It’s halfway between an album and a mixtape… I’ve worked with a lot of people I’ve been excited to work with.” Sure enough, a couple of days after we speak, the tracklist is announced. To call Wasted Days ‘feature-heavy’ would be an understatement – the name Sam Binga appears unaccompanied on just one of the album’s 14 songs. Despite an obvious penchant for collaboration, none of Simpson’s usual roster of MCs will accompany him to Beijing. I suggest that he might get on the mic himself for some Putonghua shout-outs. In response, he produces a feat (complete with Chinese tones) that I may never experience in an interview with an overseas DJ again: “wéi xiăojiĕ, guò lái!” █ The Syndicate ’ s 11th birthday; September 19; RMB50; Dada (see Listings for details)

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SHOPLIFTERS OF THE WORLD UNITE Chengdu Indie Band Stolen on Stealing the Limelight by A n d re w C h i n

GIVEN THE HUGE STRIDES MADE BY

Chengdu quintet Stolen since their first demos emerged in 2011, it shouldn’t be a surprise to find a band brimming with ambition. Yet, there is something striking about the fact that on the cusp of an ambitious 32-city national tour to support a new album, frontman Liang Yi is already thinking ahead. “It’s not enough that we’ve made some progress when compared to our early music and performances,” he says. “Recently, we’ve been thinking about how to get rid of the limitations of styles like ‘electronic music’ or ‘rock music’ – to create something new. This is a huge challenge, and an adventure but one that we want to be able to finish on our next album.” As Liang plans the band’s next record, most fans are still getting to grips with their latest release Loop. Recorded over five days at Taiwan’s renowned 112F studio, the album is a major statement. Some songs may be three years old, but their newly recorded versions show off a group more muscular in its sound and more confident in shifting dynamics. The album also represents China’s changing music industry– Loop’s release came about when social networking site Douban reached out to the group after launching its new D-Force record label. The disc was then made available as a limitededition free download to build buzz. “I think every single band has a chance to be heard,” Liang says of today’s music industry. “The most important thing to remember is that while China’s record market is not very good, there are still people and companies that have not stopped looking for good independent music.” Nonetheless, labels need payback. The album’s free online release is illustrative of a new revenue model based on live shows. In this regard, Stolen may excel. While the band only have two national mini-tours as experience, their use of a live VJ, makes the live experience quite different from the one captured on their record. “The visuals add a new layer to the music,” 3 6 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

promises band VJ Formol, who often bathes the band in shades of fluorescent green while on stage. “Sometimes you can have the feeling that the images are producing the sound. Images have the power to make you focus on one sound in particular. “Stolen are really more energetic live on stage because of some little interesting imperfections you never feel on CD,” he continues. Fittingly, it was a single live performance that first thrust Stolen into the limelight as P.K. 14 (whose guitarist Xu Bo went on to serve as producer on Loop) handpicked the band to open for them at the Chengdu stop of their 2013 national tour. That same year, the band’s almost eponymous debut EP, STrange OLd-fashioned ENtertainment, was released by New Noise, the Chengdu promoters responsible for bringing postrock stalwarts like Tortoise and Toe to the mainland. But the quintet’s rapid ascent belies years of hard work as a student band. The twentysomethings formed the group in high school where they connected over a love of rock music and being new emigres to Chengdu. As university students, they shared a rehearsal room with Maybe Mars upstarts Hiperson and frequently appeared on mixed-genre bills before achieving the holy grail of student bands - winning the 2011 MIDI Battle of the Bands National Campus competition. “At the time, we were like any young student punk band doing a lot of covers,” Liang recalls. “Then, we began to like Kraftwerk, Portishead, Nine Inch Nails and Joy Division – this kind of cold, dark music.” While most of the band attended the Sichuan Conservatory of Music, they remained together and matured alongside their budding music tastes. But come the group’s September 26 show at Yugong Yishan, don’t be surprised to hear a tribute to their roots: their well-received cover of ‘Love Will Tear us Apart.’ █

Sep 26, 8.30pm; RMB60-80; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

“Recently, we’ve been thinking about how to get rid of the limitations of styles like ‘electronic music’ or ‘rock music’ – to create something new” W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 3 7

Amid a series of recent venue closures, Dominique Wong checks out two new spaces hoping to take their place in Beijingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art and music scene

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Beijing’s live music fans haven’t had much to celebrate lately – venues have been closing their doors quicker than you can say “I no longer hear the music.” First there was Maybe Mars’ XP in July, then Mako Livehouse a month later. But as the saying goes: when one door closes, another one opens. Or in this case, two of each. Because during the last month, Beijing’s art and music scene has received a much-needed boost with the opening of new spaces from a couple of veterans of the local scene: Modernsky Lab from Modern Sky Entertainment and J-Space from the team at Jiangjinjiu Bar. We headed down to both and, on first inspection, the pair seem more than able to fill the void. On face value, Modernsky Lab and J-Space couldn’t look any more different: The former is located in the mammoth Chaoyangmen spaceship (aka Galaxy Soho) and brightly decked out with a state-of-the-art sound system, while the latter is decidedly more low-key, nestled at the end of Dengcao Hutong. But aesthetics aside, both aspire to provide an area for talented artists and cultural activities. Modernsky Lab is the brainchild of the ubiquitous Modern Sky Entertainment. With the independent record label and festival organizer expanding in recent years (its Modern Sky Festivals will be held in New York, Seattle and Helsinki in 2015), a live music and entertainment space was the natural next step in its quest for world music domination. As manager Xiao Linfeng (also known as the promoter, DJ and recording artist X.L.F.) explains: “We’re in the music industry so we should have a platform [for artists].” The venue’s name is apt: this is a lab for artists, musicians, photographers and designers to collaborate, perform and experiment together. The space comprises a live music venue, dance area and recording studio, plus a cafe-bar area and store. It’s bold and colorful, with an industrial-cumschool cafeteria (a really nice one though) feel to it. You can browse through the

merchandise (Modernsky, of course) with a coffee in the daytime, or enjoy a beer with some live music after dark. Since its launch party at the beginning of August, the Lab has regularly hosted DJs and bands on Friday and Saturday nights. But it also showcases art from some of the label’s artists. Our most recent visit coincides with the opening of an exhibition, ‘God Takes Care of Drunk & Fool’ by guitarist Li Zhao. Remnants of the exhibition – fluffy threeeyed monsters, bottles of coke – are strewn around the space as people mingle around the cafe-bar area and a three-piece synth band play in the stage room. We find parents with children, girls with bowl haircuts and couples alike. Afterwards, as the Jägermeister promo girls arrive, we enjoy a couple of drinks at the small bar. It’s about the length of a sitting bench and the staff informs us that it will be expanded into two “later on.” Sonically, the set-up is solid: the sound system is as good as you’d expect from an operation like Modern Sky. Xiao arrives to oversee the sound check and he looks pretty pleased. This looks like it may just be the beginning for Modernsky Labs. They plan to open 20 globally over the next five years, with the next one set to appear in Shanghai in 2016. The aim is to share Chinese music and “gain greater exposure for our artists,” Xiao says. J-Space, meanwhile, is comparatively understated. In fact, it’s barely distinguishable from its gray-bricked hutong neighbors. The venue is the latest venture from the owners of Jiangjinjiu, which is “one of the earliest livehouses in Beijing,” according to Forest from the J-Space team. But it’s also the shared goal of a group of likeminded friends (including musicians, artists and

academics) to provide a multi-cultural space “for creative projects to be realized.” These projects include music, creative workshops and speaking events, beginning this month with an art exhibition, ‘Wuyu or Love at Second Sight,’ by Xia Tao. The building was originally a private residence, though it has been rebuilt and redesigned to become J-Space. Grays, whites and teal dominate, with the simple color scheme designed to let the art do the talking. The downstairs area is split into three: the entry and main room make up the ‘exhibition hall,’ while a back room can be used for meetings and gatherings (the rooftop also serves as an exhibition space and a party venue). Each of the downstairs areas is separated by glass doors, which can be folded open for better ‘integration’ between them, which seems to be a central theme at J-Space. “You have art and interesting creative things [here] but you also have life,” explains Forest. Indeed, during our visit on a quiet afternoon, we find a group of friends eating and talking in the back room, with the glass doors to the exhibition hall flung wide open. J-Space is small but charming, and Forest is proud of the focus on original and creative art. He makes a not-so-subtle dig at the “more commercial and mainstream” spaces at 798, while also admitting that, as artists find greater success, there is “always the commercial temptation.” But for now, there is an undeniably warm sense of community here. “The Beijing public is welcome to contact us, and to pitch their ideas,” Forest says. “We are not going to limit the space. We would like things to happen – that is all.” Modernsky Lab: Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri 8am-6pm, Wed,

Sat, Sun 9am-8pm (special events open till 4am);B1, Bldg D 5-108, Galaxy SOHO, Chaoyangmennei Dajie, Dongcheng 市东城区朝阳门内大街银河 SOHO, D 座 B1 层 5-108 | J-Space: Daily, 2-6pm; 3 Dengcao Hutong,

Dongcheng 市东城灯草胡同 3 号 (Booking in advance preferred 13801290772)

A R T S | FE AT URE

by OSCAR HOLLAND

Your Guide to the 2015 Locations

‘Split Courtyard House’ is one of three architectural case studies on display at Baitasi. Conceived by Hua Li of Trace Architecture Office (TAO), the project attempts to offer privacy in densely populated hutongs by splitting a siheyuan into four spaces that face away from each other, all with their own room and private yard.

The growth of Beijing Design Week since its launch in 2011 is best summed up by the fact that it now runs over two weeks. But becoming a misnomer seems a small price to pay for an expanded offering. The widened program and, crucially, the scope of ideas and discussion it incorporates, has helped make Design Week a yearly highlight that reaches far beyond creative industries. The topics broached – design, innovation and urbanism – are of enduring relevance to the city (indeed one of its recurring themes, smart cities, forms the core of this month’s cover story, overleaf). At the heart of everything, you’ll the Design Hop areas – locations across the city that will host installations, exhibitions, pop-ups, workshops, talks and more from September 23 to October 7. The number of areas used has jumped from two to ten since 2011, so here’s our guide to each and what you can find there.

Baitasi

Finding design inspiration by the commercial drabness of Financial Street might seem a thankless task. But hidden in its own ‘cultural and historical preservation zone’ lies the tranquil Baitasi (The White Pagoda Temple). Here, a regeneration project will host a series of interconnected architectural, cultural, social and virtual projects which examine how to live more efficiently and sustainably amid the area’s structural disconnect.

A new Design Hop area for 2015, Baitasi’s hutongs present a very different set of challenges to those more often explored in Dashilar. Throughout Design Week, the Baitasi ReMade project will explore the theme of ‘courtyard as a future living hub.’

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Indigo Having opened in 2012, Indigo is newer than Design Week itself. You may know it for its shopping facilities but its actually a mixeduse project covering almost 60,000sqm. For Design Week, the space will host ‘INDIGODesigned to Delight,’ a collection of installations and other curated content from

some of Beijing’s most celebrated young talents.

Parkview Green

A cabinet from the studio of Swedish designer and architect, Jonas Wagell, which will be on display at a furnituremaking workshop in Baitasi.

With its architectural quirks and impressive art collection, walking around Parkview Green (Fangcaodi) is already an immersive experience. But the collaboration with Design Week promises to bring much more. Under the title ‘Innovation, Sustainability and New Forms of Making,’ Parkview Green will host creative installations, exhibitions, pop-ups and interactive workshops. But here’s the real draw: the world’s largest 3D printing pavilion.

Dashilar Dashilar has long been considered the focal point of Design Week, due to the ongoing drive to improve quality of life while preserving the area’s heritage. This year should prove no different. On-site installations and presentations from a range of participating architects will address the issue of how innovative urban design can address the needs of this unique community.

Max Gerthel’s ‘Freelancer Chair’ is designed to have all the comfort of an office chair, while looking and feeling like a domestic one. It will also be on display at the Baitasi workshop, which is being organized Beijing furniture brand Zaozuo.

751 D-Park One of the two original Hop locations (along with Dashilar), 751 D-Park is the focus of Beijing’s younger generation of designers, architects and urban planners. The 751 D-Lab, invites creatives aged 18-40 to submit their ideas across a range of disciplines. As for what we’ll see there this time? Who knows – entries were still being accepted at the time of going to print.

Zhang Ke’s residence/exhibition space ‘Micro-Hutong,’ and his children’s library/ design workshop ‘Micro Yuan’er’ will both be on display in Dashilar. It is one of a number of pilots from Design Week 2014 which are now ready to be revealed.

Gehua Tower, BIFT Park, CMM, DCY and throughout Beijing There will be a range of other events occurring across the two-week period, including an opening ceremony, design awards, a design market and collaborations with this year’s guest city, Dubai. There was still plenty to be announced and confirmed as we went to print, so for up-to-date information on the program and event schedule, visit www.bjdw.org or follow That’s Beijing on WeChat (username: That’s_Beijing).

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 4 1

words by OSCAR HOLLAND & STEPHEN GEORGE

CAN URBAN DESIGN MAKE BEIJING SMARTER?

design by TIN HOI WU

Cover Story 42/3

A smarter Beijing would get you around the city quicker, reduce the energy you consume at home and, ultimately, help you to make better choices

f any major world city, Beijing is one that could benefit most from becoming more efficient, convenient and sustainable – from becoming ‘smarter.’ At this juncture, it is customary to highlight the growing pressures on the capital with some statistics, but we are spoilt for choice. How about an urban population that has expanded by over 50 percent since the turn of the millennium? Or the fact that by the end of last year, there were only 2.9 million parking spaces for 5.6 million cars? While becoming ‘smart’ is often billed as a panacea to these ills (and many more), the tag has been tossed around recklessly in recent years. Putting a chip in something – anything – seems enough to earn this coveted label. But beneath the term’s saturation lies a simple and persuasive idea – that the marriage of data, technology and good urban design can change the way a city operates. If cars, buses and road signs are all networked, then drivers and the authorities can use real-time traffic information to reduce journey times for all. If wasted energy from industry can be used to heat public buildings or homes, the city’s emissions will fall. And if houses are better integrated with their environments, residents’ wellbeing and productivity will soar. Many of these solutions are simple enough. But they require investment, both private and public. So while Beijing may be one of the cities most in need embracing smart solutions, it is also one with some of the greatest potential to do so. The political will is already emerging – Li Keqiang’s ‘Internet Plus’ program aims to provide huge amounts of government funding for cloud computing, networked infrastructure and big data projects. Whether this is accompanied by commercial incentives will prove crucial but there are positive signs. Telecoms giant ZTE claims to have made smart city deals with over 100 local governments, while firms like Alibaba

and Tencent are also investing heavily in a market which is estimated to be worth around USD16 billion in China alone. Over the next eight pages, we examine some of the initiatives which can transform the capital, focusing on key areas: transport, energy, public services, housing, and recreation space. This smarter Beijing would help businesses create more efficient supply chains, simultaneously reducing their prices and environmental damage. It would help authorities deliver services – like trash disposal and healthcare – more effectively. Most of all, a smarter Beijing would get you around the city quicker, reduce the energy you consume at home and, ultimately, help you to make better choices. Because smart cities are less about technology and more about how we collect and act upon information. Most of us carry smart devices in our pockets every day, but what really matters is how we use them. For instance, drainage monitors that warn us when using the shower might worsen local flooding are only useful if we are engaged enough to check – and invested enough to care. After all, smart cities are nothing without smart citizens.

TRANSPORT

PUBLIC SERVICES

HOUSING

ENERGY

PARKS AND RECREATION

POPULATION

district ’s new airport in Daxing At 700,000sqm, Beijing when ld wor the ort terminal in will host the biggest airp s. will pose problem it opens in 2018. Its size . d as central to the design bille g bein Sustainability is t tha w nt at present, we do kno But while details are sca uce ture low ceil ing s to red the new term ina l will fea and om ate d air- con diti oni ng was ted ene rgy, and aut ort. airp the in ons diti con ond to lighting systems to resp ch mu ieve ach to e is in plac Globally, the technology now le, mp exa for nda Airport, more. Stockholm’s Arla oir ifer (a groundwater reserv aqu l utra uses a carbon-ne ing dur gs to cool airport buildin that acts as a thermos) be then stores heat that can ifer the summer. The aqu ls ina par kin g sta nds and term use d to war m airc raft in the winter.

TRANSPORT

here are plenty of compelling statistics to illustrate the strain being placed on Beijing’s transport systems. But often, images are the most poignant reminder of the city’s overcrowding. Whether it’s a 56-hour traffic jam on an outer-city highway or a viral video of the chaos on subway line 13, we are regularly reminded of infrastructural pressures. To counter them, the city’s authorities must find the right balance between the two levers it can most effectively operate – regulation and innovation. On the former, current strategies are somewhat crude (although effective in the short-term). Restrictions on which days drivers can be on the roads, for instance, do contribute to reducing the daily traffic volume. But low-level penalties will not themselves bring about sustainable change. Inconveniencing drivers is only effective if it’s accompanied by improvements to the alternatives.

Physical expansion of public transportation systems (plus a much-needed new airport) remains a central goal. And rightly so – many areas of the city are still unreachable by subway. Nonetheless, there are still plenty of smart solutions that could make existing resources work more efficiently. On this front, there are some promising developments. A real-time bus app, launched in 2013, provides departure and arrival information for hundreds of routes (at a fraction of the price required to install bus stop displays). Smart bikes are also on the verge of hitting a larger China market, making cycling a more enjoyable and convenient alternative to cars. The common theme of these innovations? Information – the more of it the better. If commuters can be provided with real-time information on things like traffic intensity, journey times, road conditions, alternative public transport routes, and the availability of parking, they can make more

On-Board Intelligence What kind of smart technology is Link Motion

They’re very interested in getting real-time information about their cars so

developing?

they can know how the engine is performing or how the whole car is behaving.

We make a secure computing platform for smarter

Then perhaps they can say: ‘you’ve hit that 15,000-mile mark, maybe its time

vehicles. Cars are moving away from being uncon-

to bring your car in for servicing.’

nected vehicles where the engine was king. Now, it’s the computer that’s important. But taking any

Why is your office based in China?

old operating system and putting it into a car isn’t

This is the largest car market in the world and is starting to drive the design

going to work.

of cars. We’ve also found that Chinese insurance companies are interested in getting GPS data from their users. They’re thinking: ‘If we could know when

Jethro Cramp, from the China office of Finnish technology firm Link Motion

What are the benefits of a connected vehicle?

you’re going on mororways, we could then sell you reduced, cheaper, more

It’s going to be a slow progression as the in-

basic insurance’. And then when you use a motorway you could buy an add-

frastructure gets built. In the beginning, we’re

on. That would also benefit drivers who don’t use them, because they can get

looking at applications focused on manufacturers.

cheaper insurance.

Cover Story 44/5

efficient choices. Given Beijing’s high level of smart phone ownership, a range of apps (or perhaps a single integrated app) would be the obvious way to disseminate this information. But there is no reason why it can’t also be sent to wearable devices or built into cars. It is not only individuals who are empowered by increased connectivity. If more parts of the transport network relay information back to central control rooms, then the city can be better equipped to manage demand. Technology giant IBM is now able to predict a traffic jam up to an hour before it happens. This information, coupled with the ability to act on it, could change the way authorities manage traffic flow. Control rooms could update networked road signs, or remotely change traffic

lights or bus routes. This technology would not only assist individuals but also help the entire road network by taking future traffic into account. It is all within Beijing’s reach. Cities in Europe, America and beyond are already using ‘the internet of moving things’ to improve services. In the city of Porto, Portugal, for instance, sensors in smart buses’ suspension are able alert municipal authorities of sudden jerky movements, helping them to identify pot-holes or road damage in need of repair. In Limerick, Ireland, officials can remotely control pedestrian signals, giving people more time to cross when traffic permits. Ahead of these developments lies the holy grail of smart transport – driverless cars. When your vehicle can navigate itself,

What’s next for the connected car market? In the longer-term, as cities themselves become more connected you’re going to see vehicle-to-vehicles communications and vehicle-to-infrastructure communications. In the US, the department of transport has mandated that from 2017, all new cars must have this technology in them. They may not have many uses for it yet, but at least it’s in the cars and they can start building services and functions on top of that.

The more real-time information that is fed into control rooms, like this one in Beijing, the more effectively city authorities can manage traffic, plan public transport and direct resources.

it can drop you off and pick someone else up – making you money in the process. Alternatively, a publicly-owned fleet of driverless taxis could eliminate the need for private car ownership, abolishing the need for city-center parking lots. This technology is not far from completion (in fact, Baidu plans to launch its first driverless car with BMW by the end of the year), but an infrastructural overhaul is required to make it work. Currently, no city is even close to being ready. Should Beijing wish to lead the way, it could find itself at the forefront of the next transport revolution.

ENERGY

PUBLIC SERVICES

As the local distribution point for Beijing’s power grid, electrical substations need to be close to people’s homes and businesses. But with space at such a premium, the city must find new ways to provide power to densely populated areas. In Caishikou, Xicheng district, a solution has already been developed, though you may not have realized – it’s under your feet. The engineering company behind the project, ABB, says it can hide up to 98 percent of a substation underground. As well as the obvious benefit of freeing up land for other uses, the station uses groundwater in the cooling system to reduce its environmental footprint. Other ‘smart’ functions include real-time monitoring and overload forecasting, which allow the grid to meet and react to demand more efficiently. Water Heating

Space Cooling

19 Cooking

Home Appliances

56 Space Heating

nyone living in a building with central heating may be familiar this yearly absurdity: opening the window in winter because it’s too hot. Without any way of adjusting the temperature, households across northern China let wasted heat flow out into the night. Simple heat meters allow building managers and district heating facilities to adjust supply according to need. In fact, they are already being installed into new buildings and retro-fitted into old ones. But more ‘macro’ solutions are also underway. A new plan being developed across Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei aims to use excess heat from suburban power plants and steel factories to heat homes and reduce waste. Energy and utilities are often seen as the responsibility of the state. But with the right information we, as individuals, can also be empowered to make better choices. Smart meters that alert people to their water and electricity use can encourage them to compare with their neighbors, identify waste and ultimately reduce consumption. And instead of simply relying on people’s consciences, smart metering provides a more basic incentive – the reduction of monthly bills. Sustainable energy is of course tied in with the bigger questions of how the country can move away from coal power. Nonetheless, helping people understand their own energy use is crucial to change, according to Steve Turner of UK-China Smart Cities, a project currently promoting cooperation between Wuhan and Manchester, UK. “Smart meters are starting to appear in China, but there’s been very little evidential work to understand the impact they’ve had,” he explains. “There’s a real opportunity to bring some of this technology into China, but what’s more critical is citizens’ awareness of energy use. “I have a smart meter myself and after the first week you can’t stop looking at it. The need to create this kind of localized solution is much more acute in a country the size of China.” There are plenty of other public services that can be made more efficient through connected urban design. If smart garbage cans alert city authorities when they are almost full, for instance, trash collectors can plan the quickest route to ensure they are emptied. And if motion detectors are installed on street lamps in quiet

Heating of space and water is responsible for two-thirds of household energy consumption [Breakdown of average energy consumption in China’s urban households, 2012]

Cover Story 46/7

Making information about public services available – from ticket office waiting times to live flood updates – is one thing. Getting it in one place, namely people’s pockets (or wrists), is another. Places like Hangzhou and Yinchuan

residential areas, then energy savings can be made when no-one is around. Such initiatives require up-front investment. But pilot schemes in the US and Europe – where smart city markets are more mature – show compelling evidence of quick payback times and subsequent public savings. This is even before taking into account the less tangible benefits of lower carbon emissions and improved services. Given that China’s population is aging and increasingly prone to conditions like diabetes, healthcare is an area that may benefit most from smart investment. To begin with, a new model of care needs to be built around the idea that hospitals are a last resort. Not only do patients dislike them, but they are traditionally the most expensive places to provide treatment. Remote healthcare – monitored via simple devices (like wristband heart rate sensors or personal blood-sugar monitors) and administered via telescreen or tablet – is more convenient for patient and doctor alike. For those treatments requiring face-toface attention, the current public healthcare system could adopt smarter ways to manage demand. An app comparing live waiting times across hospitals, for example, could help patients choose where, or in non-urgent cases, when, they could be seen most promptly. The healthcare system faces massive overhaul across the country in the coming decade, so now is the time to invest. It will always be far easier to build new service infrastructures around data and connectivity, than it is to introduce them into existing systems.

Serving You.’

have already set up websites that bring

And why stop there? In Helsinki,

together real-time service information

Finland, the Urbanflow project is in-

from across the city. An all-encom-

stalling kiosks around the city to dis-

passing app is the next step, and last

play public information on things like

year, reports emerged of such a mo-

energy consumption, traffic density,

bile project in the capital called ‘Beijing

air quality and municipal works.

Beijing’s 2012 flash floods showed that the capital’s drains are struggling to cope. But the overloaded sewage system may pose a greater long-term hazard. Currently, almost 20 percent of Beijing’s wastewater ends up untreated in rivers around the city. In New York, where 27 billion gallons of raw sewage flow into the city’s harbor each year, a new project, Don’t Flush Me, enables people to reduce the damage of their household water use. A simple sensor detects where there is a risk of system overflow, with the information fed to a website that warns people when flushing the toilet or using the shower could contribute to sewage running over. SMS alerts and integration with platforms such as WeChat could provide real-time warnings in any district of the city, especially during heavy rainfall. Such a system would require public participation, but that might not be a difficult idea to sell. Don’t Flush Me opts for the simple and persuasive pitch: “Help keep your sh*t out of the harbor during storms.”

[see fig his gra .2] illus ph trates t related r a n sportenergy consum a ga i n s ption t urban density we see . T o the l numer eft ous Am – Hous e r i c t o n , Ph an Citi oenix, es – whic Los An h indic g e l e a s te a no urban t very style w dense i t h high and an energy over-re u s e, l i ance o the far n cars. right, w O n e have one of Hong the den K o n g, sest cit planet ies on with m the i n imal e Hong nergy Kong h u s e. a s a brillian cient p ublic t t l y effiranspo a high rt syste density m with of peop those t le livin ranspo g on rt node s.” Bill Web b Make A rchitect s

RECREATION

POPULATION

he urbanization of the modern world is unprecedented in size and scope – and nowhere more so than in China where, as of 2012, the number of people living in towns and cities has exceeded those in the countryside for the first time. This shift from rural to urban has been credited with fueling the growth of China’s economy, as millions move to cities in search of increased opportunities, higher paid jobs and better education. But mass migration has come at a price. The constant stream of new city dwellers has placed a considerable strain on urban infrastructure, particularly in areas such as housing – where the tendency has been to build outward, rather than upward. According to the most recent government figures, China’s urban inhabitants now account for 51.27 percent of the country’s entire population of nearly 1.35 billion – that’s a total of 690.8 million people, up from almost 19 percent in 1979 (when the country launched its first economic reforms) and just 10.6 percent in 1949 (when the Communist Party took power).

The majority of these new urban inhabitants live in second- or third-tier cities, such as Baoding, Langfang or Zhangjiakou – to name three examples within commuting distance of Beijing – or on the fringes of major metropolises. “The tendency has been for cities to expand outwards away from the center, where land is cheaper,” explains Bill Webb, general manager of Make Architects’ Beijing studio. “But a lot of Beijing’s problems relating to issues like pollution, transport congestion, and even quality of life, can be traced back to its creeping expansion – its sprawl.” Beijing, which has seen its population more than double in the last 30 years, is slowly beginning to tackle these problems head on, according to Webb. “It’s really an issue of mobility,” he explains. “Transport within cities, transport between cities, social mobility, economic mobility, digital mobility, it seems to me to be at the heart of what we mean by ‘urbanism’ in the modern sense.” Webb cites Seattle as a good example of a vertical environment which creates density to help facilitate ac-

Cover Story 48/9

By com bining Beijing, megalo Tianjin polis of and He bei into more th 120 mil a a n 200,0 lion peo 00sqkm ple, the and ove seek to ‘J in r g -Jin-Ji’ redefin project e urban will ing a de plannin g in Ch conges ina by c ted, mo key ind re effic reatustries ient cap are relo ital, wh cated to ile Much o f the co outlying nnectiv areas. ity with would re in the s ly on eff uper cit icient h y igh-spe ed rail links,

cess to rural space. “By being dense and small, Seattle city dwellers are able to access rural locations without battling through the suburban sprawl present at the edge of so many cities,” he says. “The urban sprawl of Beijing creates disconnected places, and long, energy-inefficient commutes. Meanwhile Hong Kong, for example, gives people short, efficient commutes that undoubtedly increase their happiness and general wellbeing. Research at Sweden’s UMEA University found that if your commute is more than 45 minutes you are 40 percent more likely to get divorced. Issues such as these have a fundamental social impact.”

reducin g comm ute tim and pro es betw viding e een diffe asy acc rent hu ess to g bs Though reen sp the key a c e. a im nomic a is to re locate c nd adm ertain e inistrati core, m cove func uch of ti ons aw its succ ay from ess wil growth the l be reli of mam ant on moth s the upportin ensure the co-e g infras xistenc tructure cial and e of hig to h-quali residen ty comm tial acti vities. er-

Beijing’s city planners are also looking to reduce the negative impact of cross-city commuting by reorganizing the city into distinct clusters – with the latest proposal seeking to relocate key government offices beyond the Fifth Ring Road into Tongzhou. Whether this can solve the problems Webb identifies, or only serve to exacerbate them – as more people are forced into longer daily commutes – remains to be seen. What is certain however, is that Beijing’s urban imprint is changing. And with the development of further links between Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei, where we live and

how we live has never been more important.

Against all odds, Beijing remains among China’s

Association, roof greening schemes

greenest cities – especially within the Second

cover over 1.2 million sqm, or

Ring, where traditional parks and open spaces

about 1 percent of the total area of

dominate the map. The problem, according to

Beijing’s urban roofs. The idea sees

experts, is ensuring access to these centralized

home owners – or more typically, a

parks. How can people living in the city’s outer

collective of home owners – work

districts enjoy public green space without com-

together to create new and open

muting great distances?

public spaces that save natural

One answer is ‘roof greening’ – a combination of

so-called ‘heat island’ effect. They

as a new form of urban forestation.

also make neat vegetable gardens.

According to the Beijing Rooftop Landscape

Shared social space is an integral part of any smart city

precipitation and help relieve the

architecture and gardening, that is being heralded

Ambitious new plans to convert

pushed outside of the city as part of the Jing-Jin-Ji mega city

former industrial and commercial

project (see page 49).

areas into parks have become a

These parks could number into the hundreds, with plans for

key element in Beijing’s long-term

as many as 300 currently being mooted. The key idea would be

urban vision, according to officials

to allow quicker and more convenient access to public parks for

at the Beijing Municipal Bureau of

those residents outside of the city center. This comes alongside

Landscape and Forestry.

plans to create a further 3,000 hectares of wetland spread out

The plan would see the introduc-

Cover Story 50/1

across the suburban districts of Fangshan, Daxing and Tongzhou,

tion of 2,300 hectares of new green

and 8,000 hectares of wetland recovered from the Yongding

space in the next five years, through

River, Chaobai River and Guanting Reservoir. If the city reaches

the transformation of areas va-

this target, it will have 54,400 hectares of wetland, accounting

cated by businesses that have been

for 3.3 percent of the country's total.

eijing is out of shape. According to recently released statistics from the city’s health and family planning commission, at least 21 out of every 100 adults are deemed obese – that’s almost 4.5 million people. The rate of obesity (classified by the government as having a Body Mass Index, BMI, above 28) for residents aged 18 to 79 rose to 21.9 percent in 2014, up from 19.1 percent in 2011. This is the first time the figure has gone above 20 percent since records began – and the trends suggest those figures will continue to rise. For those living and working in Beijing, this sudden spike will come as no surprise. The capital, once a veritable paradise for pedestrians – laid out on an easily navigable grid that readily combined residential and commercial areas – is today an ever-growing built-up sprawl that forces residents into their cars. “Traditional Beijing hutongs with their mixed-use of space and walkable network of car-free alleyways are, in many ways, the ideal urban design,” said co-founder of the People’s Architect and Industrial Design Office in Dashilar, James Shen, in a previous interview with That's Beijing. “Hutongs are unique, in that they create a natural flow that forces people out of their homes and into shared community spaces. This creates social connections – and, of course, leads to better well-being, both physically and mentally.” The idea that Beijing’s own size directly correlates with the size of its in inhabitants is not entirely true. There are other factors at play too – most notably, the encroachment of public spaces. “Chinese cities have traditionally centered around the public square. It’s a very important part of urban life,” says Shen. “But in Beijing today, there is diminishing public space. That’s why you often see old ladies dancing outside of shopping centers – there’s nowhere else for them to go. New developments are not built to encourage this type of social interaction.” It’s a problem faced by people of all ages. In June of this year, Beijing's health commission and sports

administration jointly kicked off a weight reduction campaign, calling on residents – especially children and young adults – to get active. Noting the strong correlation between obesity, diabetes and cardiovascular disease, the government drive aimed to encourage young people to introduce more sports into their daily routine. Government statistics reveal that Beijingers are adopting increasingly sedentary lifestyles. Last year, the average time spent doing activities which do not require much movement, such as sitting down to work, watching TV, eating and playing mahjong, increased to 6.1 hours a day, up from 5.7 hours the previous year. It’s not good enough to simply promote sports, what’s really needed is a change in lifestyles, and that requires a change in urban planning – from the top down. Beijing’s immediate future is likely to see a return to mixed use urban planning, that encourages social interaction and increased mobility. Chinese urban planners aware of the dangers associated with sterile commuter towns – or large suburbs on the outskirts of the city – are investing heavily in the promotion of innovation hubs, to help create a more diffuse economic model, that reduces pressure on the city’s core.

Traditional Beijing hutongs with their mixed-use of space and walkable network of car-free alleyways are, in many ways, the ideal urban design

GRAPEVINE NIBBLES A magazine’s Eat & Drink section should be relatively conflict-free. And yet, not so. Since we last went to print, we’ve seen veritable military movements: an army of Spartans marched through Sanlitun under the banner of local brand Sweetie Salad. (Their conquest was unsuccessful – the shirtless models, below, were stopped by police shortly after they began.) It just goes to show: empires inevitably rise and fall. Advancing on the Risk game board of life are Pizza Express and Zhang Mama, who’ve opened new branches at Dongzhimen and Jintai Lu respectively, and gearing up for battle are Moka Bros and Café Flo, whose new outposts are imminent. Meanwhile, on Game of Foams, Great Leap has procured two new weapons: its newly brewed Ordinary Bitter and R. Schuster Pilsner. And Jing-A Taproom is preparing for battle by opening on Mondays, from here on out. Still, the ultimate battle is simple: East vs. West. Taking sides are two recently opened pie shops: Beijing Pie (Team East, making Beijing-style pies) and Two Guys and a Pie (Team West, making pub-friendly Australian meat pies). Summer is over, Beijing, which means winter is coming. In a Beijing divided in allegiance, who will take the iron throne? Only time shall tell.

O F F T H E B E AT E N P L AT E

"Sex in the air, I don’t care, I like the smell of it" is not only the most memorable line of Rihanna’s 2011 hit ‘S&M,’ but also a good way to describe new S&M-themed restaurant, Ke. Alrught, there aren’t people literally having kinky sex on Ke’s Sanlitun confines, but sex is indeed in the air – or on the walls, rather. Porno-worthy paraphernalia hangs around the restaurant, and things we see on display during our visit includes chains, bras with spikes on them, leather whips and dogs collars… that aren’t made for dogs. Meanwhile, couples and (surprise!) single dudes eat innocuous dinner fare at the tables below. The menu features mediocre guijie-style spicy crawfish – now that’s masochism. > Daily, 11.30am-late; 55 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路 55 号杰作大厦 1 层

H E A D -TO - H E A D / NAUSEATINGLY ADORABLE PASTRIES

VER SUS Bear Piece Cake

Sweetie Kitty

贝甜先生/小姐 Available at Paris Baguette, RMB12

Kitty甜心 Available at Bread Talk, RMB16 FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Aww! Cakes made to look like a pair of hetero-normative gender stereotypes, how sweet.

This is so cute, Bread Talk must have used gutter oil to make it.

INITIAL TASTE

Vanilla ‘girl’ cake: good! Surprisingly good! Vanilla with notes of orange, bravo!

Incredibly sugary sweet and creamy. To the point of being gross.

SECOND BITE

Chocolate ‘boy’ cake: what the f**k is this.

The cake all but disintegrates when you eat it. Bye, cute kitty. Hello, pile of creamy goop.

VERDICT

Despite the chocolate ‘boy’ cake disaster, we give the win to Paris Baguette bears. The vanilla bear was genuinely good – a rare accomplishment for items featured in this column – and the Hello Kitty cake was indeed too cute to be true. 5 2 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

T H E Y SA I D I T, W E R E A D I T

BA RT I SA N S

Kro’s Nest

This month, Giovanna Albanese Tragona, who sells popular new Italian beer, Toz

Ever wondered what kids these days think of some of Beijing’s long-standing foodand-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: pizza-andpijiu staple Kro’s Nest – are customers hankering for more, or are things a little too… cheesy?

The pizza: applause, applause, applause! Everything else: so-soso.

It tastes really average and the price is so expensive – especially the chicken, the flavor is a little strange, isn’t it?”

I can only say that the service is especially bad… really bad. The food is okay.

What a difference compared to Pizza Hut. My colleagues think that it’s good to eat. Well… not for me.

N E WS B I T E S

The PRC Potato Push

APEC, Olympics, move aside: Beijing recently hosted the World Potato Congress, the largest, most important event in potato progress on the planet, where potato dignitaries from across the starchy globe delivered speeches. The whole saga was documented by exciting websites like PotatoBusiness.com, which wrote exciting headlines like ‘China makes global commitment to the potato.’ In case you haven’t been keeping up-to-date on your potato news, here’s the deal. China’s been pushing the potato as a more efficient alternative to rice, the reigning staple crop. Potato fields yield more food in a smaller amount of space, and that’s no small potatoes, given increasing pressure on China’s land. Some potato scholars are even arguing that potatoes are healthier for you – questionable, seeing as how our main exposure to them is when they’re soaked in oil a la French fries – but hey, we’re listening.

—Tell us about the beer you sell. Toz is a beer you can find in pretty much all of the Italian-oriented places in Beijing, plus a lot of cool bars. Everyone loves the logo [Giovanna shows us the logo – it’s a picture of fat guy riding a scooter]. It has a cool story, actually. The daughter of the guy who owns this in Italy drew a picture of this local character who was always riding a Vespa around their village. Her dad then turned it into a logo. —So does Italy have a good craft beer scene? It’s a very new market. The innovation started during the economic crisis and, for the past five years, it’s been growing a lot. Everybody’s getting more and more involved in the business. It’s definitely a new trend, but it’s going very well. —What do local customers think of Italian beer? Chinese are always like: “This isn’t German!” But then I tell them that this beer doesn’t make you feel heavy after you drink it, and a lot of Chinese people, especially Chinese women, seem to appreciate that. It’s selling really well here. I finished my stock. I work alone, taking the beers from my place to my customers with my bike. I have a big mess of boxes in my room, and my clients make fun of me when they see me show up with beers on my bike [laughs]. —Where do you drink in your time off? ? Màs. You get in, and you don’t want to get out. I love it. NM > Toz beer, see www.gourmetfoodart.com for more information

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E AT & DRINK | FE AT URE

TURNING OVE “Where do we begin?” says Martin Papp when I ask him about changes in the modern tea industry. It’s a gray Monday afternoon, and we’re on the bottom floor of the equally gray Sanlitun SOHO complex. That said, the space we’re in is a bit of an oasis from its drab surrounds: Martin and his team are in magenta T-shirts. Multicolored cases of tea line the walls. Upbeat indie pop plays over the stereo. Like any good cafe, Papp’s place has a soothing environment and comfy chairs. There’s just no coffee. There have been many reports on coffee’s growth in China – the industry as a whole grows 30 percent annually – but what does this mean for China’s rich tea culture? According to Euromonitor, high-end tea sales “witnessed a sharp drop” in 2014. I’m here to ask Papp, who’s creating a Starbucks-like café chain, but for tea, what coffee has to do with that. “Starbucks was successful by creating this idea of the ‘third space,’” explains Papp. For the uninitiated, coffee shops are a ‘third space’ because they’re neither home, nor work – but somewhere you can comfortably spend time. “Tea kind of got lost in that,” he says. “[At teahouses] there’s a lot of ceremony involved. It’s a very rigid and much slower process.” Tea represents traditional, perhaps even old-fashioned, Chinese culture. And some people appreciate that more than others. Older customers, particularly in more traditional areas in China, remain 5 4 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

devotees of the tea-drinking lifestyle. It’s the younger ones, says Papp, that have taken a liking to coffee. As it turns out, the war of tea versus coffee is a game of perceptions. Very little of Starbucks’ success has to do with Chinese preferring the taste of coffee over tea – in fact, some of Starbucks’s biggest sellers are green tea lattes and tea-flavored frappucinos. Rather, it has to do with what coffee represents. It’s new, it’s exciting, it’s international. And in some cases, it looks like the set of Friends – a replica of Central Perk, the cafe frequented by Ross, Rachel and crew, made headlines when it opened in Chaowai SOHO in 2009. Whereas Westerners often see coffee as a daily essential, Chinese view it as a luxury brand. The price for a frappucino at Starbucks, for example, is RMB35 – well out of reach for lower-class Chinese. Tea, on the other hand, is what everyone drinks. It’s culturally important, of course, but it simply does not have the same appeal. Papp is well aware of this. While he does speak fluent Chinese and live in Beijing with his Chinese wife, his blonde hair and baby blues mark him as decidedly Western. As such, he’s bringing non-Chinese teas into his business alongside more traditional Chinese varieties to build an international brand. Papp’s Tea, he says, will have the same international cachet and stylish atmosphere that a hip coffee shop would. He’s making sure his stores offer an increasingly globalminded populace increasingly global-tasting drinks – and he’s not the only one doing it.

R A NEW LEAF by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Can a Starbucks-like Rebranding Save the Faltering Tea Economy?

In Sichuan and Chongqing, areas of China known for their rich traditional teahouse culture, entrepreneur Liao Weijia is manning a similar trendy – and growing – tea outlet called NenLu Tea (‘tender green tea’). She’s already received RMB100 million in funding. And further afield, prominent tea wholesalers Teavana and David’s Tea are opening brick-and-mortar cafe locations across the US. In China, however, it’s an interesting gamble, launching a luxury tea brand when luxury tea leaves are seeing a decline in sales. But according to Papp, “Tea’s consumption is going down domestically, but growing on a global scale.” And a lot of this has to do with increased interest in healthy living. Walk the aisles of Maliandao Tea City, in South Beijing, and salesmen and women will tout their teas’ seemingly miraculous health benefits – smoother skin, lower anxiety, more regular shits. (Sales pitches, of course, are mostly nonsense. But tea does have a huge range of health benefits that have been proven.) China’s not immune to global trends, and Papp says healthy living is a trend that’s “unstoppable.” Still, the disconnect between how people view coffee versus how they view tea, is why many are reticent to connect one’s rise to the other’s fall. “They are both so different,” says the saleswoman manning a tea shop named Tiandi Chaye in Maliandao Tea City. “Tea is a lot of people’s hobby. People like drinking tea because it’s good for your

health.” [She goes on to list a variety of seemingly impossible tea health benefits.] Huang, a tea saleswoman in the same building, agrees, even though, she admits that her business hasn’t been that well lately. “I don’t think there’s any relation,” she says. “People will still buy tea to give to other people, and if those people don’t drink tea, they can give it to someone else.” That idea, of tea as a gift to others, is also struggling at the moment. Luxury teas have been traditionally used as government bribes, but Xi Jinping cracked down on that in 2013, and luxury tea sales have been on the slide ever since. That reputation is hurting the tea market right now. At Tiandi Chaye, a decrease in the tea-for-bribes market has seriously impacted the business: “The government’s anti-corruption clampdown has seriously affects our sales,” said the saleswoman, somewhat dejectedly. Starbucks lattes may be expensive, but not as expensive as a RMB1,000 luxury pack of tea. An RMB30 latte, however, is the perfect price for an upwardly mobile middle class. Ultimately, most salespeople I spoke with were optimistic about tea’s future. It may be changing, and coffee may be accelerating its change, but many see that as a good thing. “There’s room for both,” says Papp. █

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Autumn

Craft Beer Festival by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

This year’s Autumn Craft Beer Festival sees 14 craft breweries from around China setting up camp outside East Hotel. In preparation (and in thirst) for this year’s event, we visited the five participating Beijing breweries and scouted out their prettiest beers. Consider this your Beijing craft brew beauty pageant. > Sept 25, 5-10pm and Sept 26, 12-10pm; East Hotel Grounds, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu 朝阳区酒仙桥路 22 号

Sea Anchor Imperial Vanilla Stout RMB45 > Slow Boat Brewery

NiuBi Wheat RMB35 > NBeer

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FE AT URE | E AT & DRINK

Koji Red Ale RMB40 > Jing-A Brewing

East City Porter RMB35 > Great Leap Brewing

GUANXI PALE ALE RMB40 > Arrow Factory

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E AT & DRINK | RESTAUR A N T S

THE DISTILLERY Crafty Devils wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Price RMB50-100 for a cocktail Who’s Going Old literary greats, probably, if they were alive Good For The classiest of benders

If the word ‘craft’ were alive, like if the letters C, R, A, F and T jumped off this page and into the real world, they would undoubtedly share a renovated house in the hutongs. They would have a hand-stained wooden closet of flannel button-downs and a refrigerator of IPAs. But before we launch into the elaborate society for imaginary talking letters that we created while researching this article, let’s get two things straight. First, The Distillery is a new bar in Beijing. And, second, you should go there. The Distillery is where C, R, A, F and T would all hang out. Nestled in a quiet hutong and decorated elegantly, The Distillery epitomizes craft. Everything is dripping with the piney, bearded essence of that word, from the beautiful hardwood surfaces, to the old-timey framed artwork and the shelves upon shelves of fine liquors. Still, there’s more to The Distillery than the vibe, although the vibe is awesome, and reminds us of a beautiful, tech-savvy cabin. The essence of The Distillery is its distiller: a gargantuan metal machine dotted with bolts and knobs that stands proudly in back-center as if the centerpiece of The Distillery’s dining room table. Said distiller makes the liquid prize of The Distillery – which was gin on the night of our visit, but could be vodka or rum on nights to come. The gin we tried was positively mala, thanks to Sichuan peppercorn, which added a hot tingle. Meanwhile, co-founder Bill Isler and team use their spirits to make finely executed classics: Manhattan, old-fashioneds and

martinis. Isler prides himself on making the ‘best Manhattan in Beijing,’ and although we haven’t had every one in the city, we’re tempted to believe him. He takes his time with the drink, and tops it off with bourbon-soaked cherries. “We don’t want to do anything innovative with the mixology,” says Isler. “We want to have all the innovation within the spirits themselves.” We’d argue there’s innovation within the design as well. On The Distillery’s second floor, only a pane of glass separates you from the crinkle-cut ridges of the neighboring hutong roof, and it feels more like an exhibition on classic Chinese architecture than a happenstance view. To be honest, we’re not sure what ‘whiling away the hours’ means – what does that entail? How exactly does one ‘while’? – but we’re pretty sure that’s what we did. We forgot we were reviewing for work for a bit there, and instead sipped our cocktails, slowly, until we were drunk. Long story short: We went to a bar, it was really nice, and then we got drunk on good gin. That’s all it takes. Mon-Sat, 8pm-late; 20 Xinsi Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区辛寺胡同 20 号

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RESTAUR A N T S | E AT & DRINK

AO MAN

Really Eel-y Good wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

Price RMB100-300 per person Who’s Going Lido families, power lunchers Good For Classy and convenient Japanese

How do you eel? At Japanese sea eel restaurant Ao Man, you can eel in any number of ways. There are eel platters, eel soups and eel livers. There are eels in egg rolls and eels on rice. But new restaurant Ao Man also boasts a charming atmosphere and swift service, and that, ultimately, is the reason we’re writing this review. Ao Man is the latest upscale restaurant to hit the equally upscale Lido area. A colleague told us it was advertised as a “Japanese sea eel” restaurant, although plenty of other Japanese classics are on offer. (When pronounced out loud, ‘sea eel’ and ‘seal’ sound strikingly similar. Be wary of this lest your loved ones think you’re heading to Lido eat adorable baby seals.) We kick off our meal with a beautifully

presented platter of sashimi, which looks as delicate and rich as the meats themselves taste. We then munch on sweetly seasoned chicken wings, as well as bits of eel wrapped in fried egg pancakes (RMB28, eel jianbing, might we ask?). But the real deal – the real eel deal – comes in the form of our main course. Our waitress gives each of us a tray. In the middle is a wooden carton containing eel over rice, and to the side is an intriguing assortment of suggested toppings: bright pickled vegetables, edible fish spines, kelp. Finally, she places tea pots on our trays (RMB238 for the whole thing). Thus begins her explanation on how to deal with eel. Our waitress says there are three ways to go about this: First, we can mix the eel with rice and call it a day. Second, we can add all the accoutrements before mixing and then top with Ao Man’s signature eel sauce. Or, third and most excitingly, we can pour tea – yes, real tea, from the teapot – over our eel and eat it like a soup. In the name of journalism, of course, we try all three. The tea-soup method is an exciting novelty, and genuinely tasty, but we admit that option No. 2, eel and rice with all the added goodies, is our favorite.

All of this takes place in casual, yet refined surrounds. Each table is in a classic Japanese-style private room behind curtains. And on the broiling August afternoon of our visit, the cold air-conditioning was blissful. Granted, at Ao Man you kinda have to be into eel. We like to think they’d convince you if you aren’t. But if you already are, then it’s a pretty sweet deal. (Eel deal, sorry.)

Daily, 11.30am-2pm; 5.30-10pm; Gaojiayuan

Community 3, Jiangtai lu 将台路高家园社区三区小区入口 30 米 (5849 4526)

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E AT & DRINK | FE AT URE

E N VA I N The thing about there being only one baijiu bar in the world until now (Capital Spirits), is that baijiu bar No. 2 only really has one baijiu bar to compete against (Capital Spirits). En Vain will inevitably draw comparisons, which, unfortunately for them, is not a good thing.

T WO G U YS A N D A P I E

H AV E N

Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路号三里屯 SOHO

Listen up, bogans: Two Guys and a Pie are back with their distinctly Antipodean brand of meat pies. Their new space is as small as it gets without becoming a rollaway cart. But that’s all our two guys need, because the meat pies are killer.

Bldg 38, Sanlitun Xijie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯西街三

Houhai is a shithole of double-deckertourbus proportions. But we found love in this hopeless place, at Haven, whose Peach Smash (RMB50) coaxed oohs and aahs from our bourbon-soaked lips. Our only request is that they get some music on the roof, because that Houhai racket’s a bitch.

一号楼 1123-1 (5785 3628)

里屯南 38 号楼一层 (135 2065 6601)

楼 1 层 (186 1335 7817)

> Daily, 11am-2am; 1-1123, 1F, Bldg 1, Sanlitun SOHO 8

> Tue-Thu & Sun, 5-11pm; Fri-Sat, 5pm-3am; 1/F,

> Daily, 6pm-1am; 1F, 2 Dianmenwai Dajie, Qianhai

Nanyan, Dongcheng 东城区地安门外大街前海南沿 2 号

is R ic e l e e h t f s i s ll You he Ha We Te Worth t

L A C E V I C H E R I A BY M I GAS This summer saw the opening of not one, but two pisco-and-ceviche joints, which is unusual, but hey – Peruvians are bound to make pisco and ceviche, we suppose. We tried La Cevicheria’s pisco sours (RMB35) and can attest that they’re frothy-good. This being part of Migas, we also expected creatively elegant South American cooking – and the wagyu beef tequenos (RMB98) were exactly that.

PUNK ROCK NOODLE

T H E S M O K E YA R D

> Wed-Sat through Oct 3, 6-10.30pm; The Bar at

After struggling to sell cheese to the lactose intolerant (at the late Corner Melt), Jimi Sides and co are back. Sure, noodle restaurants in Beijing are a fen a dozen, but these servings (RMB28-38) are tasty, decently sized and accompanied by a brash dose of Oi! punk.

Dajie), Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街东公街 25 号 (8402

The Smokeyard is the kind of place that would be on every corner of every American town. That’s not normally a good thing, but we’re in Beijing, so that makes it special, and the steak (RMB98) is a steal for its Sanlitun environs. Final verdict: It definitely doesn’t suck! But then that’s not much of an endorsement either, is it?

Migas, (see Listings for details)

3180)

(6501 7501)

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> Daily, 6pm-2am; 25 Donggong Jie (off Gulou Dong

> Daily, 10am-2pm, 5pm-10.30pm; Door 5, Bldg 6,

Sanlitun Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路 6 号楼 5 门

8-BIT

Wind Down, Power Up wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

Game on, Beiluoguxiang: video game-themed bar 8-Bit has reopened. Its previous incarnation was a bit cramped, but version 2.0 comes with two bonus levels (a second floor and a rooftop), and the tastiest gold coins we’ve ever collected (RMB40 Arrow Factory beers on tap). Decor is playful, in the most literal sense of that word. We don’t quite get why there’s a neon David Bowie poster in the stairwell, or why the roof is carpeted with Astroturf. But we also don’t quite get why a laowai would open a gaming bar in the hutongs. We dig it all the same. Games on offer run the gamut from FIFA to Sonic the Hedgehog and Mario Kart. But it’s better than an arcade, because you can exchange your tokens (kuai) for actual fun things (alcohol!). And the drinks are good (try the Hawthorns Revenge, RMB50), so everyone wins. It is the perfect spot to have – and play – a round or two. Tues-Sun, 5pm-late; 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷 13 号 ; (134 8878 3848)

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COMMUNITY

WELLINGTON COLLEGE INTERNATIONAL TIANJIN

Wellington College International Tianjin are delighted to announce that their 201 5 Charit y Summer Fayre raised a grand total of RMB 42, 43 7.70 for the China Development Foundation. On Saturday 6th June, the international school opened its gates to around 2,000 people from the local and international communit y. T he fayre was bigger than ever, with over 90 different stalls offering delicious foods, refreshing drinks and even the chance to throw an old wet sponge at your (least) favorite teacher.

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With on-stage performances that lasted from 1 1 am until 3pm and a terrific raffle, there was something for ever yone, even bored teenagers (probably). T he most successful of Wellingtonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual Summer Fayres to date, the school would like to extend their thanks and appreciation to all who contributed towards making it possible and helped raise funds for the China Development Foundation.

TIANJIN

EVENT | COMMUNIT Y

SUMMER BBQ PARTY AT GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING

LOOKING B

To celebrate the summer in st yle, Urban Family and G TC Residence Beijing joined forces to co-organize a part y for G TC residents on July 19. Parents, children, friends and staff enjoyed a chill Sunday evening , with a BBQ dinner buffet, free-flow drinks, live acoustic music, part y games and luck y draws. For more pictures from the event visit our website at w w w.thatsmags.com/beijing.

THANKS TO OUR SPONSORS / GOURMET & FOOD ART TOZ EASY ARTISAN BEER CATHERINE DE FRANCE MISS MUESLI

Our first issue Summer Camp Special Edition

Summer Camps Special Edition 夏令营特刊 Entrepreneurial Kids Workshop Let's Farm Field Trip 农耕季 Timber Lake West Camp 游美体验营

new y of our fr e e c o p a p u k e P ic pock t il y e v e n ts m a F n a U rb ! OUT NOW g u id e –

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GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING / W W W.G T C R E S I D E N C E .C O M GTC serviced residence is an ideal option for families, especially those with children, and is one of the very few serviced residences in China to boast a sky garden within its private compounds. Situated within the Beijing Global Trade Center, its central location allows residents conveninet access to major commercial and business hubs in the city. All 134 of its apartments come fullyfurnished and well equipped with luxury fittings and appliances. Amenities include a 24-hour multilingual front-desk reception, business center, and gym, housekeeping, laundry and dry cleaning, and shuttlebus services. > 1 0 5 67 5 -6666 / s ales @gtcresidence.com U R B A N FA M I LY / W W W.U R B A N-FA M I LY.C O M /C I T Y/ B E I J I N G Part of That’s Beijing magazine, Urban Family is the go-to resource for international families living in Beijing. Specializing in events, our platform gives you a seasonal calendar of all the fun, healthy and family-friendly happenings in Beijing’s international community. Together with our interactive content and website, our kids’ clubs and family get-togethers connect urban families with the city and each other.

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Slugabed / DJ

MozART Classical cabaret

HEAR

Ran Live Vol. 1 Gig New Beijing-based record label, Ran Music, hosts its first showcase at Dusk Dawn Club (DDC). Rapper MC Dawei is joined by hip hop duo Soulspeak & Ttechmak, garage rockers Luv Plastik, and up-and-coming house producer J.R.G. Check out Animal Pop’s In The Woods Vol. 1 and Vol. 2 for a taste of this promising label’s recorded output. > Sat Sep 12; 8.30pm onwards; RMB50; Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

Aside from a couple of singles (including the Coolest EP, which could be purchased alongside a matching beach towel), we haven’t heard much from UK oddball Slugabed since he was last in Beijing. A long-awaited follow-up to his 2012 debut long-player – the 8-bit-laden Time Team – is still yet to surface. But the producer (real name Gregory Feldwick) has good reason for his absence. Since we saw him in 2013, he’s been building up a catalogue of artists – and often bizarre releases – on his label Activia Benz. This should, in theory, mean that Slugabed’s record collection is teeming with new oddities. Judging by the label’s recent compilations, this could be anything from “deep space R&B” to “one-take analogue techno.” > Sat Sep 12; RMBtbc; Dada (see Listings for details)

DragonForce / Gig

MozART return to Beijing with their unique approach to music cabaret, still determined to break the stuffy image of classical music (“we exist despite the sober formality of great concert halls, despite the boredom of classical musicians' life”). The quartet use traditional instruments in unorthodox and often humorous ways. But, amid the hilarity, one shouldn’t forget their musical caliber. All are graduates of prestigious music academies in Warsaw and Lódz and they’ve been playing together around the world since 1995. > Thu Sep 17; 7.30pm; RMB20RMB280 (+ multi-ticket discounts); New Tsinghua Xuetang, 1 Qinghua Yuan, Haidian 海淀区清华园1号 (6278 2334)

DJ T DJ

Dim Sum Disco DJs

You know that summer is drawing to a close when Migas closes its rooftop for the year. Join Dim Sum Disco residents Boflex and Crystal Bones for one last blowout on the terrace, before reacquainting yourself with an old friend – the Migas downstairs bit. > Fri Sep 11; 10pm-late; RMB60; Migas (see Listings for details)

‘Operation Ground and Pound’ has to be one of the best names for a metal track ever produced. Fans of British six-piece, DragonForce, will of course recognize this as a single from the band’s third album, Inhuman Rampage. For over 15 years, the power metallers have been delighting audiences with ballads like ‘Revolution Deathsquad,’ ‘Prepare for War,’ ‘Fury of the Storm,’ ‘Through the Fire and Flames,’ and the characteristically uplifting ‘Invocation of Apocalyptic Evil.’ Catch the band’s ferocious live show in Beijing, where they’ll play music they describe as “Nintendo metal,” “Bon Jovi on speed” and “Journey meets Slayer.” > Fri Sep 4; 9pm; RMB260 (pre-sale), RMB320 (on the door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

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Dusseldorf-born Thomas Koch is one of those multi-talented types who can list producer, club owner and journalist among their many job titles. But he’s best known as DJ T, founder of the influential Get Physical Music label and one of the leading forces in German electronic music. Given that T has been DJing since the 1980s, it would be safe to assume that he has an enviable record collection. And don’t just expect German tech – his label’s output over recent years hints at a penchant for deep bass, grooves and what he terms “minimal booty house.” > Sat Sep 26; 10pm-late; RMB70; Migas (see Listings for details)

Tiananmen & The Making of Modern Beijing Walking Tour

NFL Home Field at The Place / Sports

Derek Sandhaus Book Talk Derek Sandhaus is a rare breed. In addition to having served as chief editor of Earnshaw Books and publishing history books on Beijing and Hong Kong, he also runs a baijiu blog and a consultancy. This time, he’s visiting The Bookworm to speak about his new edition of controversial early sinologist Edmund Backhouse’s work Decadence Mandchoue. Sandhaus has edited the book in a more accessible version called Manchu Decadence. > Thu Sep 3, 7.30pm; RMB50, RMB40 for members; The Bookworm, see Listings for details

Tiananmen has been the political epicenter of China for nearly a century now, and The Hutong is here to teach you about it. Join a knowledgeable historian guide for a 4km walking seminar through Beijing’s history – or more literally, through Tiananmen, Qianmen and the historic hutongs of Dashilar. Learn about our fair city as an imperial capital, the abdication of the last dynasty in 1912 and the founding of the PRC in 1949. Included are visits to the Legation Quarter and the Beijing Urban Planning Hall. The Hutong doesn’t do your typical tours, so expeect your guide to employ voices, stories, pop culture references and examples from the archives to bring it all to life. > Sun Sep 20, 10am-1pm; RMB300, RMB260 for Hutong members; will meet at Chongwenmen subway station Exit A

American football doesn’t get as much attention here as other sports, but NFL Home Field’s changing that with a new series of family-friendly activities for the public – and no, you don’t have to be a 250-pound man with a full gear set. Not a pro? No problem. Home Field is taking over The Place and bringing the sweet game (American football) to you. Football coaches and experts will be on hand to host quarterback and running back challenges, hold football clinics and give talks. Head over to test your abilities at the 40-yard dash, vertical jump and broad jump, or, if you’re not feeling that athletic – just snap a few fan photos. > Sept 11-13; Free; The Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区世贸天阶

Stand-Up Comedy with Joe Wong / Comedy

James Bradley Book Talk

Drink & Draw Art

Modernista is offering its space, models and booze for would-be artists. Each Tuesday, they’ll provide the model – you just show up with pencil and paper and a creative spirit. Liquid prizes are available for the most artistic among us. > Every Tues through September, 9.30pm-midnight; free; Modernista, 44 Baochao Hutong, oﬀ Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44号 (136 9142 5744)

James Bradley will be at The Bookworm to discuss his latest book, The China Mirage, about the history of US-China relations from the 19th century through Mao’s rise to power. Bradley is the bestselling author of Flags of Our Fathers, Flyboys and The Imperial Curse. His latest book, which aims to expose the dark underbelly of America’s initial dealings with Asia, discusses everything from Christian missionaries with bad intentions to China’s opium trade boom. > Mon Sep 21, 7.30pm; RMB50, RMB40 for members; The Bookworm, see Listings for details

Chinese-American Joe Wong has been featured on The Late Show with David Letterman and The Ellen DeGeneres Show… and now he’s coming to Beijing. Goofy and edgy simultaneously, his humor has made headlines on both sides of the Pacific – and this month, the same man who’s roasted US Vice President Joe Biden at the Radio and Television Correspondents dinner in 2010 (no, really), can be seen at Beijing’s Comedy Center. Whether you’re a fan of his work in America (stand-up appearances) or in China (his show on CCTV), less than two pink bills to see him is a pretty sweet deal. > Sat Sep 12, 8-9.30pm; RMB180 at the door, RMB150 presale; Room 219, Zhongliang Guangchang Building C, 8 Jianguomen Neidajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内大街8号中粮广场C座219厅(185 0093 2991); reserve tickets at www. comedyclubchina.com

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Great Leap Brewing beer launch Drink

The World of Rice / Dinner

TA S T E

Ugly Tomato Festival Festival No supermarket wants to display ugly tomatoes. That’s about to change – Traitor Zhou’s is giving lumpy tomatoes some love with its ugly tomato festival, and restaurants around the city, including Jing-A Taproom, The Taco Bar and TRB, are joining in and making special ugly-tomato dishes for the event. > While supplies last; available at BBC, Chi, Fiume, Jing-A, Migas, Mosto, Nobu, Okra 1949, The Taco Bar, TRB, Velvet Verde and Traitor Zhou’s

Hop-heads take note: Great Leap has launched two new beers, the Ordinary Bitter and the R. Schuster Pilsner. Both are available at all three locations across the city. We’d recommend trying the Ordinary Bitter (RMB35) at Great Leap No. 45, where it will be served with a hand pump, just how English bitters are traditionally served in the UK. The R. Schüster Pilsner (RMB30) is a tribute to Qingdao’s first brewmaster. Great Leap is honoring him with all-German hops and a classic German pilsner style. Still, it’s richer than your standard pilsner – the perfect beer to take along with you in your transition from summer to fall. > All Great Leap Brewing locations, see Listings for details

No need to pit chefs against each other Iron Chef-style when they can work together for the greater good. This month’s biggest culinary event is ‘The World of Rice,’ a lavish six-course result of three top Beijing chefs putting their minds, and cleavers, together. Alejandro Sanchez of Niajo, Omar Maseroli of Mercante and Taka Yamamoto of Sake Manzo – Spanish, Italian and Japanese chefs respectively – will each present two rice-based dishes from their own countries, and then pair them with wine. That’s six glasses of wine, people. So for under RMB500, that’s a pretty sweet deal. > Thu Sep 24; RMB498 per person; Niajo Spanish Restaurant, Nali Patio 3rd ﬂoor, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号西班牙餐厅那里花园三层; to reserve email table@niajo.com or call (5208 6052)

Sake Manzo 10th Anniversary / Tasting

Jing-A Taproom OneYear Anniversary Party

Ramo Pizza Party Deals

Every Wednesday, Ramo is throwing you a pizza party. The Fangjia Hutong favorite is offering buy-oneget-one pies for dinner, which is perfect for sharing… or not sharing. Up to you. > 6-10pm; Wednesdays; Ramo, 64 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区安定门内大街方家胡同64号(8403 5004)

They grow up so fast. Jing-A’s Taproom is one year old, and to celebrate, they’re throwing one hell of a party. In addition to lucky draws and great deals on beer, the crew will be releasing their seasonal Über-Jing Oktoberfest Lager. This ain’t your mother’s lager, though – Uber-Jing is beefed-up Vienna-style lager with old-world German hops clocking in at over 6 percent ABV. > Sat Sep 19; all day; Jing-A Taproom, see Listings for details

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Beijing’s sake mecca, Sake Manzo, is hosting the biggest sake tasting in Beijing to date. At its Sake Carnival, visitors can taste nearly 100 different kinds of sake, as well as speak with the owners and sommeliers of sake factories visiting from Japan. No sake knowledge? No problem. Experts will be on site to explain. Later that night, owner Taka Yamamoto will have a bluefin tuna show. What’s that, you ask? That’s when the adorable and mild-mannered Taka will dissect a massive bluefin tuna on site. In addition to being a lesson on fish anatomy, it will also be a tasting – and a damn good one, if we know anything about Taka’s cooking. > Sat Sep 19; Sake Manzo, see Listings for details; Sake Carnival from 11am3pm, Blueﬁn Tuna Show from 6-10pm; RMB100 for presale tickets, RMB150 at the door; call (6436 1608) to reserve

Shang Xia Flying Chair / Exhibition

Younger Generation Directors Screening Film

SEE Join Là-Bas Bar as it celebrates its one-year anniversary with a weekend film party. The hutong hangout will screen four internationally acclaimed films from younger-generation directors, featuring Fish Tank by director Andrea Arnold and Central Station by Walter Salles. Fish Tank is a gritty portrayal of an East London council estate family, starring a preX-Men Michael Fassbender, and the film won the Jury Prize at the 2009 Cannes Film Festival. Central Station is a critically acclaimed BrazilianFrench drama set in Brazil that tells the story of an unlikely friendship between a young boy and a jaded middle-aged woman. Reserve seats > Sun Sep 6, 2-6pm and 7.3011.30pm; each session RMB30; LàBas Bar, 34 Jiaodaokou Beisantiao, Dongcheng 东城区交道口北三条34 号; reserve seats via chalﬀy@163. com.

China Open 2015 Sports Break out your best whites, baby, ‘cause it’s China Open time. While China’s tennis darling Li Na may have retired into domesticated bliss, the China Open is still a must-see for quality tennis and a day on court during the brilliant but brief Beijing autumn. Don’t miss out as Novak Djokovic, currently ranked world no. 1 in men’s singles, goes for his sixth China Open title. > Sep 27-Oct 11; National Tennis Center, 2 Lincui Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区林萃路2号; buy tickets at www.4007076666.com/index.asp

Shooting with Lights Theater

40 Artists at Play Art

Artists at Play features a group of artists exploring the lighter side of life, with De Sarthe Beijing as their playground. The installations are at once colorful, contemporary and questioning, ranging from Zhou Wendou’s neon basketball hoops to Wang Guofeng’s photograph of North Korea’s Wuyi stadium, with the ultimate question being: ‘Why so serious?’ Why, indeed. > Tue-Sun through Oct 16, 10.30am6.30pm; free; De Sarthe Beijing, 328 D Caochangdi, Chaoyang 朝阳区草场地艺术区328-D

Shang Xia’s Flying Chair exhibition lands in Beijing for one week this month. What’s a flying chair, you ask? The exhibition showcases the Shang Xia’s Da Tian Di collection of modern furniture, which is inspired by traditional Ming chairs. Shang Xia are experts at fusing past and present elements of Chinese culture to produce contemporary furniture with a distinct Eastern style. The Da Tian Di collection is a modern response to the oriental philosophy of unity between man and heaven. It’s Ming-style furniture with a fresh twist: subverting the traditional round exterior/square interior motif into a square exterior/ round interior, and adding more modern lines. A highlight is the Carbon Fiber Chair – its design streamlines key features of Ming Dynasty furniture and re-imagines them into one minimalistic masterpiece. The design is subtler than its counterpart and lighter. Its carbon fiber body can withstand 200kg of pressure, yet the chair itself weighs only a fifth of the wooden version. Da Tian Di brings beauty and tradition into the 21st Century. As Jiang Qiong Er, CEO and Artistic Director of Shang Xia says: “Contemporary design inject[s] new life into traditional culture, so that it can percolate into our lives today and find new use.” It combines the best of both worlds – the elegance of the past with the innovative techniques and materials of today – to create beautiful, refined pieces. > Sep 9-15, 10am-9pm; China World Mall Zone 1 Atrium, 1 Jianguomen Wai Dajie 国贸商城, 中国国际贸易中心

Idle Motion welcomes you to the life of Gerda Taro, a young German refugee turned trailblazing photographer, via autobiographical snapshots in this innovative and evocative show. By combining live stagecraft with cutting-edge video projection, London theater group Idle Motion will tell the story of Taro, from her beginning photographing the Spanish Civil War to her relationship with iconic war photographer Robert Capa, the man behind the famous saying: “If your pictures aren’t good enough, you aren’t close enough.” > Sept 8-12; RMB180-300; Multifunctional Theater of NCPA, West of Tiananmen Square, inside the east of NCPA国家大剧院小剧场; to book, email sales@theatrebeijing.com

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WEEKLY SPECIALS

Happy hours Meal deals Brunch

Food and Drink

Ladies' nights

Bottega Who says Mondays have to suck? And who says summer is over? Bottega’s Monday Summer Deal will rock all the way through September. Every Monday, pop into the Italian pizzeria for half-priced calzones and half-priced Stella Artois drafts. If you’re unfamiliar with Bottega, and you like pizza (and you obviously do, because what kind of freak doesn’t), then check it out. The brothers behind Bottega take their pizza seriously, and we mean really seriously – they’re descended from a line of professional pizza makers in Naples, the epicenter of Italian pizza-making. Take a bite, and it shows. This ain’t no greasy New York-style pie. Still, there’s more to Bottega than pizza. There are fresh Italian salads, delightful antipasti plates and, of course, the calzones. We recommend the double-layered calzone di salame (RMB88), which we described as “one of the best pairings of dough and cheese we’ve tasted in Beijing” in our initial restaurant review. Since then, we’ve tasted about a billion other dough-and-cheese pairings – but yeah, we still stand by that. > Daily, 6pm-midnight; 18 Sanlitun Beilu (down the alley opposite Page One), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路18号 (6416 1752)

M O N DAY to FR I DAY MONDAY Mai Bar Buy two cocktails, get one free. > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

MONDAY TO THURSDAY XIU Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, 6-9pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)

MONDAY TO FRIDAY One East Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per person, 12:00-2:30pm. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿酒店2层 5865 5030 Great Leap Brewing 11.30am-2pm, free soft drink or juice with any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Pale Ale #6. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see Listings for details) Hagaki Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge. 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Jing Yaa Tang Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) Agua Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ person for three courses. > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Greyhound Café Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details) Village Café Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB88+15% (2 courses) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5210)

MONDAY TO SATURDAY Twilight Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, RMB20 off cocktails. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 (5900 5376)

TUESDAY Flamme Two-for-one steak all day. > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)

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Pebbles Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as you want. > Midday to midnight; 74 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同74 号 (8404 0767)

TUESDAY TO FRIDAY S.T.A.Y Restaurant Three courses including coffee and tea for RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Mosaic Buy-one-get-one-free pizza every Wednesday lunchtime at Mosaic. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Xian Whiskey night, discounts on special selected whiskeys. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9810)

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

Great Leap Brewing All day Wednesday, one select beer at RMB25. > At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see listings for details)

Domain Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger promotion. > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9830)

Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西门58号 (6551 2373) 4Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ weekly celebration of KTV. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

Opus Terrace Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)

FRIDAY Mesh House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 free. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)

CITY SCENES Diners at Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q’s 8th birthday proudly show off their spoils from the buffet

With everyone distracted by the food, woman attempts slightly-open-mouth selfie at the launch of Sofitel Wanda Beijing’s new a la carte dinner concept

DJ looks at other DJ DJing as crowd of DJ enthusiasts look on at DJ club Dada’s third anniversary party

Ravers at The Syndicate experience severe allergic reaction to free t-shirts given to them just moments earlier

Hungry hipster mistakes vinyl for a plate of artisinal foie gras during Groove Kitchen at Ramo

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LISTINGS OPEN DOOR

RESTAURANT

The Hot One Hundred About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

CHINESE Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界酒店2层 (5960 8822)

Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is the place for mountainous shaved ice desserts and creamy bubble teas. > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. com.cn for details

The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

No 16 Courtyard 后海16号 (Beijing)

Expensive...................................¥ Expense Account ....................¥¥ Highly Recommended ..............* Top Ten ....................................**

Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of China, including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)

Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese restaurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, so expect sweet and delicate and sweet flavors with impeccable presentation.

> Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666)

Peking Duck Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadongdadong.com for more locations

Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

Shanghai Shanghai Min 小南国 Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469)

Sichuan/Hunan Chuan Ban 川办 * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

MALACCA LEGEND

> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Lassa Good Times There aren’t many places worth traveling from downtown to Shunyi for, but Malacca Legend is one of them. The Malaysian-food mecca serves everything from spicy curries to frothy lassas to steaming pots of noodles. We love the yellow curry brown crab (at RMB288, it’s worth the splurge) and prawn noodle soup (RMB58), as well as the bat kut teh (Malaysian-style pork ribs, RMB68). But there’s more to Malacca than the dishes – there’s high-quality service in a supremely comfortable atmosphere. We’d recommend spending Beijing’s mild September on their lake-view terrace, maybe over a lassa. Malacca Legend is offering their Malyasian lassas as part of a new afternoon tea special from 2:30-5:30pm, accompanied by small plates of the new pumpkin cheese balls (RMB30) and vegetable crystal bags (RMB30). “I want to make Malaysian food as famous in China as Thai and Vietnamese food is,” says head chef Joseph Yep. Seems like he’s well on his way. > Malacca Legend, see Listings for details 7 0 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Houhai No. 16 is a courtyard restaurant in Houhai, specializes in dishes once served for the government in the imperial times, with customizable menus. ¥380/person (without drinks)Open: 11.30am-9pm

> D4, Dajin Hutong. Xicheng District, 西城区后海大金丝胡同4号 010-83226461,13716551797 www. houhai16.com

Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) Resembling something between a nightclub and a theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes.

> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)

Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

South Memory 望湘园 This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with locals. > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. southmemory.com for more locations

LISTINGS Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 The menu here is old-fashioned and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food.

Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service complete the experience.

> 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)

> Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com for other locations.

Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Chinese dining at its best.

> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

Yunnan Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect district for Yunnan food, and this little gem is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town. > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318)

Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian)

> Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommendation the prices have risen and the walls are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic.

Hot Pot Ding Ding Xiang 鼎鼎香 * Classier than most hotpot joints, Ding Ding Xiang features a spacious dining room of sweaty-faced patrons enjoying high-grade huoguo in their own individual pot. The delicious sesame sauce (the recipe is a closely guarded secret) is a Beijing classic.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, Yuanjia International Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 9289, see www.dingdingxiang.com.cn for other locations)

Haidilao 海底捞火锅 * Hotpot in China is like religion; everyone’s got their own brand. Either way, the raw meats and vegetables, cooked communally, is divine, and the outstanding customer service makes Haidilao a fitting church > Daily, 24 hrs; 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80 Middle School), Chaoyang 朝阳区白家庄路甲2号 ( 八十中学西侧) (6595 2982, see http:www.haidilaohuoguo.com for other locations)

Regional Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites. > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281)

Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway. Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational.

PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations

OPEN DOOR

BRASSERIE FLO Cuisine Par Excellence Beijing may not have its first Michelin star (yet) but that doesn’t mean that you can’t enjoy Michelin quality food, thanks to a long-standing relationship between Brasserie Flo and one of France’s top chefs Daniel Chambon (from the celebrated Le Pont De L’ouysse in southwest France). Because not only does Chambon design dishes for the one of the capital’s fine dining institution, he also makes regular trips to Beijing to ensure that the quality is up to his (incredibly high) standards. Having tried some highlights from the chef’s latest menu, we can attest that they live up to the billing. We start with the foie gras terrine with muscat jelly and fig brioche (RMB138), the complex flavors perfectly offset by sweet apple chutney. For main course, we recommend the divine black truffle and pork crepinette (RMB198), which is topped with seared foie gras and brought to life with a rich Perigourdine sauce. Bon appetite! > Daily, 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

> Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800)

Makye Ame (Tibetan) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb.

> Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号 (6506 9616)

> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)

Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.

> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Dumplings Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under

PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI

An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shaobing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good. Queues of locals are testament. > Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like dapanji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)

WESTERN Fine Dining Aria ¥¥ (European) * A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the

RUMI License to Grill Rumi’s authentic take on Persian cuisine is the gift that keeps on giving. A range of new menu items has just been launched and we are pleased to report that they include some absolute delights (of the Iranian, not Turkish variety). Fresh from the grill we enjoy the spicy chicken kebab (RMB86), which features some of the tenderest boneless chicken to be found this side of Sanlitun. But the real highlight is the bademjan kebab (RMB80), which sees fleshy eggplant served alongside chunks of minced beef and – like all of Rumi’s best meat dishes – rice and juicy grilled tomato. There are plenty of new meat-free dishes to show off the chefs’ subtler sides, in particular the hearty falafel (RMB49), now served with a tahini sauce bursting with fresh cilantro. But once again, the standout dish involves eggplant, this time in the form of kashk-o-bademjan (RMB40) – a Persian classic that sees the vegetable cooked, mixed with onion and seasoning, then topped with yogurt. > Daily, 11.30am-midnight; 1-1 Gongti Beilu & East 3rd Ring Road (opposite Zhaolong Hotel) 朝阳区工体北路甲1号兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838, www.rumigrill. com) W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7 1

LISTINGS Piedmont wine it is named after.

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151)

Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

> Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea. > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727)

Héritage ¥¥ A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with Michelin star restaurant experience and an extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu. >Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 (5695 8888)

S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics kitchen concept, which includes a mouthwatering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for international standard fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232)

Contemporary Western Alﬁe’s ¥ (British) What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate.

Grill 79 (Steak) With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

Missa (European) Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet, you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant.

> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.

> Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

Stuﬀ’d (Contemporary Western) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308)

VIC Not to be confused with the notorious nightclub of the same name, this VIC is the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restaurant. All the major world cuisines are in attendance here – make you pay special attentions to the French-inspired breads and pastries – as is the customary Sunday champagne brunch. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Yi House (Contemporary Western) Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Café/Deli/Sandwich Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. Gets cozy at night.

> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069)

Café Zarah (Café) * A smart new interior and menu for this longstanding cafe has propelled it from hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, airy and with a terrace for summer, the only downside is it’s always packed. > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

Café Flatwhite

Caribeño (Latin) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes from all over the Latin continent here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos.

C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh shells from Canada, South Africa, France, USA and more – and they are well worth the price. The fries are the best we’ve had in Beijing, beer and wine selection also excellent. > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 8号楼833 (6417 1318)

MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary Western) * Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)

MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent. > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

Ricci Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit (duh), this creative café has a funky, kookymeets-organic vibe and serves up some of the best casual western food in town, and a great brunch at the Wudaokou location (Chaoyang branch closed weekends).

> 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 号院清华科技园D座1楼 8215 8826 )

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide ranging menu has something for everyone, especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types. > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Liangma River. Menu features British classics like fish & chips and bangers & mash. The breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms. >Daily Tue-Fri 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am (kitchen closes at 10pm), Sat/Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am; Liangmahe Nan Lu, west side of Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面 (8532 5335)

> Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 8587 1899

> Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

> Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 67号 (6445 7076)

Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, with somewhat questionable price tags.

TRIBE * Induction to this Tribe appears to involve spending somewhere in the region of RMB100 on a kale salad and a freshly pressed juice, while basking in the warm, conceited glow that comes from knowing that you are Eating Well. Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic.

> Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

Chi (Organic, Fusion) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced. From the owners of neighboring Saffron.

号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / 13051771436); 4 China Central Mall Store (Hua Mao): China Central Mall, Room L315, 81 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区建国路81号L315 8588 7978 / 15652922791);5) Jianguomenwai DRC Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号建国门外外交公寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189) www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafeflatwhite@hotmail.com, WeChat username: Cafe-Flatwhite

Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads and brunch options, all served alongside some of the best coffee in Beijing. > Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; 1 Sanlitun Soho Store: B1-239, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路8号院, 三里屯SOHO, 2号楼B1-239 (5785 3762 / 15910944325); 2) 751 D-Park Store: No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区751动力广场 (6432 2798 / 13522120390);3) 798 Dashanzi Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区酒仙桥路4

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Wagas (Contemporary Western) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town. The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

> Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional locations in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

American/BBQ/Grill The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full

menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com)

Home Plate BBQ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

NOLA N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)

Tim’s Texas BBQ * Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn homestyle briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s recommended. > Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 2号院 (6591 9161)

Union Bar and Grill The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff. The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)

The Woods * New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)

Burgers Blue Frog This Shanghai hamburger franchise has been keeping Americans in China obese since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed.

> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Burger Bar Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and truffles. Burger King this ain’t. > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)

Chef Too ¥ With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town. > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

Steak 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号2层 (6584 6270))

Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)

LISTINGS > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contemporary Western) ¥¥ * The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order.

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

Flamme (Contemporary Western) Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail menu.

> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场269号 (8420 0270)

O’Steak A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. > Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 8250)

Mexican/Tex Mex Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 (6416 5212)

Taco Bar Rising from the ashes of its deceased hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, popular and able to produce some of the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only RMB45 for three and great cocktails to complement.

> Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研究院内10号1层 (6501 6026)

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (KoreanMexican fusion) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Cali’ cocktails, too. > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)

Italian Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508)

Bene ¥ * Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Cepe ¥ In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666)

Isola Bar & Grill Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza.

> Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com; 6416 3499)

Mercante ¥ * Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains. > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Opera Bombana ¥ Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and certainly the only to have opened a restaurant in Beijing. > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)

Pizza Tube Station Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be the biggest in town. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

La Pizza Among the upper echelons of Beijing pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branches in Solana and pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3

> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990)

Spanish Agua ¥ * Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 (5208 6188)

Migas ¥ * The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations.

African/Middle Eastern

branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details.

1001 Nights There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The whole Arabic dining package is on offer here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.

> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)

Biteapitta * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 层 (6467 2961)

Cuju Moroccan Bistrot & Rummery * CuJu used to be a cozy little hutong sports bar with an incredible rum selection, but now it’s a cozy little Moroccan bistrot and rummery – so it still has an awesome rum selection. Badr’s Moroccan food might be the best in town.

> 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie, Dongcheng 东城区细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)

Mosaic Restaurant & Bar Promising “the best shawarmas and shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar offers a range of great value delicacies and cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with a friendly and personalized service. One of few places in Beijing to offer genuine Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is a hidden Sanlitun gem.

> Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32 号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065)

Rumi (Middle Eastern) Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.

> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi branch worth it. > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

Asian Indian Indian Kitchen

Paulaner Brauhaus The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors. > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com

Malacca Legend Malaysian food with a view, this spacious and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for their beef rendang or green curry prawns. > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccalegend.com)

Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it. > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

Flor de Loto Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Korea-town.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with frequent live indie performances. > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Li Sanlitun then.

> Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 3层 (5208 6052)

> Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 层(6503 5555)

South-East Asian

Purple Haze (Thai) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town. Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45).

Niajo ¥ * With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is prime Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain (minus the constant sunshine).

Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus with a Filipino cover band can be) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site).

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675))

> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 6层 (5208 6061)

German

Raj Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authentic Indian, espcially the rather fine naan.

The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation and very available on JinShiSong online delivery. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255

Ganges Conveniently located above popular Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer. > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional

Susu (Vietnamese) The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish. > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)

Japanese Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) As much a California roll joint as true Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists. > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Inagiku * This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7 3

LISTINGS to perfection as you’re likely to find. Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to be missed.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 (8517 2838)

Happy Sake (Japanese) When it comes to sake, owner Taka Yamamoto is an expert, responsible for around 80 percent of all high-quality sake imported to China. His restaurant is dedicated to food meant to be enjoyed with sake. Stylish and relaxed, high-quality and affordable - Happi Sake hits all the right notes.

> Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-midnight; Jia 2, Tuanjiehu Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北路甲 2号(6582 8216)

Sake Manzo * The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town.

> Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608)

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6层 (6581 0072)

Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu RMB1,000), but what would you expect from some of the best sushi in town? Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above. > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)

Korean Ai Jiang Shan This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain.

> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags.com for other locations

Saveurs de Coree This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true. > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Vegetarian Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and they offer cooking classes as well. > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2 层0260 (5900 1288) Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city. > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同19号. (6446 2073)

BARS TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability. Arrow Factory The newest craft beer taproom on the block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway brimming with good Anglo-ScWEEandinavian vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales. A winning combination > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号（6407 6308）

8-Bit Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable RMB25 a glass.

> Daily, 1pm-2am, 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 北锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538))

BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) The brainchild of local spirits professional Douglas Williams, this bar provides the discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and straight-razor shaves.

> 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com)

The Brick A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.

> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Capital Spirits A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely hutong setting, friendly owners and great bottle collection.

> Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. com)

China Bar ¥¥ Top views from the 65th floor and flash drinks are the attractions on offer at this hip hotel bar.

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)

CICADA Ultralounge ¥ The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost. > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9898)

Cu Ju Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destination and sports fan’s manna all rolled into one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering North African food with an international cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums and sports broadcasts from basketball to cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best all-around bar-restaurants. > 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, www.cujubeijing.com

Daily Routine 日常生活 This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and the drinks at this establishment change seasonally according to ingredient availability. Light cafe fare is available during the day. > 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159

El Nido * The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El

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Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally. > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园D405室 (5208 6076)

First Floor First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company. At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps. // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)

Fubar Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name. Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.

> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

Glen ¥ Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. See for yourself. > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)

Glen Classic ¥ Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号 (6551 6788)

Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good. Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. greatleapbrewing.com)

Heaven Supermarket A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415 6513)

Hidden Lounge * Although frustrating to find, Hidden Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Ichikura ¥ One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails. Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge. > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环

北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

The Irish Volunteer Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 号 (6438 5581)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails. > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 4号院 ( 6503 2757)

Jing-A Taproom ** In just a few years, these guys developed from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding publicans with their own range of souvenir T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-andmortar taproom, which is large, warm and sociable, and has up to 16 different beers on tap. > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院

Maggie’s ¥ A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture. > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南门 (8562 8142)

Mai Bar * Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town.

> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)

Mao Mao Chong ** The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)

Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).

> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Parlor Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.

> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)

Revolution * Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍 * A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086) > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** This popular microbrewery has its own pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. Quality ales that change depending on the season, heated floors and a great little kitchen round out the deal. > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

LISTINGS The Tree A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)

Trouble Bar Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft beers. Stocks a large draft selection and an even larger selection of bottles. Also does a nice line in creative cocktails, if brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to accommodate any event, meetings, and gatherings.

> 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, troublebar@gmail.com, www.trouble.bar)

10 Best Livehouses Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Great little livehouse near Meishuguan with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly. > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969)

Hot Cat Club 热力猫 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space. > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 46号(6400 7868).

Jianghu 江湖酒吧 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the gethome-for-the-babysitter crowd. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@gmail.com)

Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍 Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this former warehouse plays host to a Silk Road smorgasbord of musical encounters from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget the overpriced bar and come for the killer sound, comfortable wraparound balcony and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang restaurant upstairs. > Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 1113, www.mako001.com)

MAO Livehouse 光芒 * From the denim-jacketed doorman to the well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hitting this side of the Drum Tower.

> 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山 Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines. > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

School Bar 学校酒吧 * Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947)

Temple 坛 *

Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 202 (131 6107 0713)

Chaoyang District (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, troublebar@gmail.com, www.trouble.bar)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711）

Hotel Bars Atmosphere ¥¥ Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.

> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

Centro ¥ Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 1层 (6561 8833)

Xian ¥ This enlongated bar space makes a nice spot for refreshment after a day spent shopping at neighboring Indigo.

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)

Sports Bars The Den At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and grows steadily sadder as night turns to day. It can get rough and ready come dawn. Solid (cheap) menu, good location and those opening times earn it a place. > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边

The Local * Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another. > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6591 9525)

Paddy O’Shea’s * Founder Karl Long airlifted an entire Irishthemed pub, including residents, from a council estate in Limerick and gently deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports, no one seems to have noticed.

> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

V Sports Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars. > Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)

Nightclubs The Bar at Migas * A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man. > Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)

Chocolate It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows. > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

Dada * It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene. > Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B 栋101室 (183 1108 0818)

Lantern * Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989)

MIX A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix is one of those places in Beijing you have to experience before you leave. Not much is forbidden in this underground hip-hop disco palace and if you don’t leave with hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong. > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ sohu.com

Vics Separated at birth from its identical twin brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti sweatbox meat-market chic at its very finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics to become one of the most infamous clubs in the capital. > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333)

GALLERY 798 Art District Picks Galleria Continua * In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua is the international gallery. Their warehouse space is a forum for high-caliber artists from nearly every continent, including several of China’s artistic nobility. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2 号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.com)

Long March Space Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by exacting standards from both the 20-odd Chinese artists he represents and the overall design of his topical and uncompromising exhibitions. International clout was inevitable. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com)

Pace Beijing With locations in New York, London and Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is idealized for. Go there! > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com)

Space Station Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to

have a good curatorial understanding of space and high-quality 2D work.

> Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区中一街 (5978 9671)

Ullens Center for Contemporary Art Filling the largest factory space in 798 with Chinese and international art, the UCCA has the curatorial power and financial backing to put together some of Beijing’s most impressive exhibitions. > RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca. org.cn)

Tang Contemporary Art Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installation and curatorial theory. With locations in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang focuses on promoting artistic exchange throughout East Asia.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. atngcontemporary.com)

Caochangdi Art Village Chambers Fine Art Beijing With its compeer gallery in New York, Chambers is a matriarch with extensive roots in the local-studio scene that allows Big Apple headhunters to cull next generation avant-garde and provide a stepping stone to international recognition. > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号 D座 (5127 3298, www.chambersfineart.com)

Galerie Urs Meile Recently upgrading to one of the courtyards designed by artist-architect Ai Weiwei, this Swiss-owned gallery has two intimate spaces, allowing pairs of solo exhibitions from leading contemporary Chinese artists.

> Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6.30pm. 104 Caochangdi, Cui Gezhuang Xiang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄草场地村104号(近电影博物馆路)(6433 3393, www. galerieursmeile.com)

White Space Beijing There are no restricting on the art this gallery supports, leading to some of the area’s more perplexing exhibitions. Always fun and on the pulse of vitality, though empirical value is pushed to an extreme.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com)

Bookstores Page One The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive collection of titles. > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com)

Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)

The Bookworm * This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event space always has a cultured evening on its shelves for both adults and kids. > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)

BEAUTY & FITNESS Brad Clinic Welcome to Brad Clinic, Beijing’s unique skincare and anti-aging center. Our professional and personalized treatments rejuvenate the skin safely, naturally and most effectively while restoring your skin’s natural beauty and health. We offer: skin rejuvenation and re-firming, hair removal, acne and sun spots treatment, and wrinkle reduction.

>Tue-Sat 9am-6pm, Room 2103, Tower E1, The Towers, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang’An Ave, Dong Cheng 东城区东长安街1号东方广场东方经贸城E1办公楼2103室 (8518 2103/ 5688, contact@BradClinic.com)

Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled

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LISTINGS climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls.

> Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Jindaﬁt Created by D’Jack Tchinda, Jindafit is a fullbody workout that turns African dance and music into seamless sequences that burns fat, tones muscles and relax your mind. Jindafit can be joined by everyone; there is not limitation to your level of fitness. Thanks to the combination of inspiring music, easy-to-follow choreography and great results, Jindafit is a promise to rock the fitness world. > Contact: jindafit@outlook.com; T: 188-0132-1096; facebook.com/jindafit; Instragram: @jindafit

JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with over 18 years of experience in Beijing. They provide a full range of surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their standard for service is focused on maintaining the best technologies in the field of cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful results safely.

is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia. Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment.

>South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com

Heyrobics “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule. > www.heyrobics.com, info@heyrobics.com

Yihe 42° Hot Yoga

> Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District

朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com)

Luxura Tanning Center This tanning salon has some of the city’s best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan possible, get custom-made tanning tips from the well-trained staff.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.luxura.net)

Lily Nails A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and waxing services too.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)

ZELL BeauCare Clinic 泽尔丽格医疗美容 Overseen by Fellow of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS), ZELL cosmetic clinic provides state-of-art comprehensive minimal invasive procedures, including, Botox, dermal filler, fractionated laser skin resurfacing, Ulthera skin tightening and lifting, professional skin care treatment (acne, pigmentation, aging), and plastic surgery (including double eyelid, rhynoplasty, among others). > Unit 2002, 1/F, Vantone Center, 6A Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街甲6号万通中心AB座一层2002 (010-59073390,18612483390, www.zellbeauty.com)

Sport Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls. > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re

California Fitness Beijing Club California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program

> www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 . Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm. Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**MonFri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488

Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, RMB115-468 men.

> 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Centre Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. (8535 1002, 131 4667 9913). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. 三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971)

Catherine de France

SPA & MASSAGE Angel Hands Massage Center Let us release your stress and make you smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off. Our masseuses will know how to pamper you and attend to your every need.

> Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn)

Alona Pilates Studio Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels.

SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 The full spectrum of dentistry. Services include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted.

> Room 301, Building 5, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO, 5号楼301 (138 1182 1008)

3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to begin your journey into Yoga, so they are available to answer any questions you may have. It’s a great workout for the body and calming for the mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 9996, 8599 7395)

> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www. yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA serve@cyclechina.com or cyclechina@ hotmail.com)

DENTAL Arrail Dental Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.

Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain of contemporary spas. Calming flower aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui fountains create a soothing atmosphere in each of their locations, while a long list of treatments from around the world cater to all pampering needs.

> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)

Dragonﬂy Therapeutic Retreat Created as a contemporary urban retreat, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)

HAIR SALONS Laurent Falcon

> 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)

HEALTH SERVICES Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. amcare.com.cn)

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken. > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

> Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn)

Beijing Passion International Medical Center This full-service international clinic provides 24-hr general medical care and a patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion International Medical Center is equipped with the latest in medical technology and is designed to support the comfort, safety and privacy of patients.

> 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院

> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)

Joinway Dental As one of Beijing’s most reputable and trusted dental practices, Joinway Dental provides the perfect combination of cutting edge technology and comfortable treatment, while maintaining the strictest sanitary and sterilization processes. The clinic uses imported materials of the highest quality and its professional, US-trained staff offers a personalized and private service.

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> EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 E-mail: catherine@catherinedefrance.com Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. com

Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric Clinic

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all appointments.

> Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, joinway@dentalcn.com, www.dentalcn.com)

Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a trained team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, including manicures, pedicures & waxing. Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI.

The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon.

> Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat,

LISTINGS 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn

Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

The Frontiers School

> Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net

Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所

Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, 6553-2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www. hkclinic.com

> Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)

Parkway Health Clinic

> Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@parkwayhealth. cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼北京Link 101-201室

Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所

> 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 85296618. Email: vista@vista-china.net. Website: www. vista-china.net

OASIS International Hospital OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

EDUCATION MBA & EMBA Schools BBA at BFSU-SolBridge 北京外国语大学国际商学院

> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537)

LEMBA The Leadership EMBA from the University of Maryland Robert H. Smith School of Business is a unique learning experience in Beijing. The program offers world class executive and leadership education from some of the best professors the world has to offer. Every month one of the professors from the University of Maryland comes to Beijing to instruct the class for 4 consecutive days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime. Email: beijing@rhsmith.umd.edu Tel: 8526 2528/29 Rutgers International Executive MBA

> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)

Mandarin Schools Beijing Mandarin Language School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language. More than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year.

> Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmandarinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)

Beijing Juncheng Language School 北京君诚语言学校 > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng

> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)

> Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, http:>www.msb.edu.cn, admissions@msb.edu.cn

Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院

International SOS Since 1989, International SOS has been run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments. Languages spoken include English, German, French, Mandarin, Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese.

北京顺义国际学校

language from an early age. Curriculum aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a high teacher-student ratio and impressive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 RMB177,000/year.

Join the friendly and professional team at Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin for 11 years. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. com.cn)

Culture Yard Voted Best Mandarin School in Beijing for 2015 by That’s Beijing readers! Ready to take your Chinese to the next level? We offer personalized Mandarin classes for serious language learners of all levels. Why choose us? •Learn in a small group of up to 6 students •Get your Chinese level evaluated and your study goals set on our detailed level test •Reach an HSK4 level in less than one year on our flagship Intensive Program! •Learn from professional teachers with master degrees in teaching Chinese to foreigners •Study in a centrally located, cozy and sunny hutong courtyard •Practice on the go with Culture Yard customized online tools •Discover Chinese culture on our Chinese Through Cinema movie nights and other cultural activities •Study the most common Chinese characters in our Characters Building course Need more? •Classes are focused on speaking and understanding real Chinese that native speakers use •Serious approach to Chinese learning with regular homework assignments and tests •We offer Chinese Media classes for advanced learners •The school was opened by a western educator passionate about Chinese learning Don’t take our word for it? See what our students say about us on www.cultureyard. net/reviews Contact us: contact@cultureyard.net/ 010- 84044166/ Wechat: CultureYard

The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 (15321793321 Grettchin)

International Schools Beijing BISS International School 北京BISS国际学校

> Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss.com.cn)

Beijing City International School 北京乐成国际学校 Located in Beijing’s Central Business District, Beijing City International School (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering and Inspiring through Challenge and Compassion.” This non-profit, independent co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and is authorized to teach all three IB programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Programme). > 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)

The International Montessori School of Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully registered international Montessori school. The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Mandarin/English program geared towards helping students achieve fluency in either

Beijing World Youth Academy 北京世青国际学校 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an international school for students of all nationalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs on its campuses conveniently located in Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School since 2001, BWYA values holistic education and seeks to give students ample opportunity to develop as globally-aware critical thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular activities are offered to further enrich student life. Graduates of BWYA have been accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB 100,000- 140,000/year. > Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 3478/0649, admissions@ibwya.net, www.ibwya.net)

The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 The British School of Beijing, established in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993-246,057. Contact our Admissions team to arrange a school tour.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, www. britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.org.cn)

La Maison Montessori de Pekin 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 The first bilingual French-Chinese Montessori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes children between ages 2 to 6 years old. The kindergarten is located in a beautiful courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class activities also offered. > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十四条50号 Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; e-mail: lamaisonmontessoripk@gmail.com www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com

Beijing Mandarin School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language, more than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. Also recognized and recommended by BBC News as one of the most professional Chinese language school.

> E-tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, 9/F E-tower Building E数码世界9层904-905(6508 1026/1126) Guangming Hotel School (Embassy Area): Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel(near U.S Embassy) 光明饭店7层0709室美国大使馆附近(84418391) Email: info@beijingmandarinschool.com/ www.beijingmandarinschool.com/ Skype ID: beijingmandarinschool1998

Canadian International School of Beijing 北京加拿大国际学校 Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class facility offers an internationally recognized Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen of the world.

> 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)

Harrow International School Beijing 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Harrow International School Beijing prides itself on its high academic standards, a closeknit school community, a rich extra-curricular activity program and the quality of its pastoral care provision. Leadership skills are promoted school-wide, with a range of enrichment activities to help students develop teamwork and creative thinking skills, as well as independence and responsibility. Students graduating from Harrow Beijing have won places at a range of universities across the world including Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge.

SIBS Springboard International Blingual School 君城国际双语学院 Springboard International Bilingual School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their students to realize their full potential. They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football. > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn; 8049 2450)

Western Academy of Beijing 京西国际学校 The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is a creative and innovative IB World School built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to others, can-do spirit and commitment to excellence. WAB graduates are accepted into world-class colleges and universities across the globe. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588)

Yew Chung International School 耀中国际学校 > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 www.ycis-bj.com)

Kindergartens Beanstalk International Bilingual School 青苗国际双语学校 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路 6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38 号 (8456 6019)

House of Knowledge International Kinde garten (HOK) House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergarten program for children aged 10 months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as competent learners and the school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade 1 in September 2014. > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. hokschools.com)

EtonKids International Kindergarten 伊顿国际幼儿园 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内

Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园

> www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, warehouse4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王家码头路

> Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, Chaoyang District

3e International 北京3e国际学校

朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 Email: enquiries@harrowbeijing.cn

www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)

> 6437 3344

International School of Beijing W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7 7

CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION Ascott Raffles City Beijing Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City. Other nearby leisure attractions include Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district. > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 Ascott Raffles City Chengdu > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China Post code: 610041 Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888 Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 GDS Code: AZ Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing Somerset ZhongGuanCun is a luxury residence in Beijing that lets you enjoy the cultural depth and elegance of the city while living in the fast developing ZhongGuanCun area, only 15 minutes away from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian District Tel: 5873 0088 Lusongyuan Hotel A traditional compound of quadrangle composing of 5 courtyards which lies in the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous for its imperial living taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of nearly 170 years. The original owner of this large private house was the Grand General SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he carried out top official duties, such as defense minister. > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Address: No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com Lee Garden Service Apartments A newly renovated high-end premier living residence in a central location next to the shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Wangfujing, suites range from studios to 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) and are tastefully furnished with specially selected materials. > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, general.manager@lgapartment.com, www. lgapartment.com) FraserResidence CBD East Beijing Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free! One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. com > Website: http:>beijing-east frasershospitality.com Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 FraserSuite CBD Beijing The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357

Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 5908 6000 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas. Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and C will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances M etc.. Unique sky garden with golf practice field Y and barbecue area is another symbol of GTC Residence. CM > E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com website: www.gtcresidence.com MY Tel:56756666 Lanson Place CY Lanson Place Central Park Serviced Residences, located in the Central Business CMY District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom K configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden. The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped. > Website: www.lansonplace.com Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 Marriott Executive Apartments Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing area where the prestigious business, commercial, entertainment, and shopping center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng District Tel: 6564 9999 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District. Tel: 8588 2888 Oakwood Residence Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100027, China reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES The Westin Executive Residences at The Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and

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close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions. > Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial Tel: 6606 8866

BUSINESS CENTER Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室

11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Pacific Century Place 北京盈科中心 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 China Central Place 北京华贸中心 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国路79号华贸中心2号楼9层 Parkview Green 北京侨福芳草地中心 15/F, Office Building A Parkview, Green, No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东大桥路8号芳草地办公楼A座 15层 China Life Tower 北京中国人寿大厦中心 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层

•Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people •Prices from RMB180 per month •Find more on Regus.cn •Tel: 400 120 1207 >> BEIJING (20 LOCATIONS) << Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 北京利星行广场 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 北京新东安广场 7/F, Office Tower 2, Sun Dong An Plaza, No.138 Wangfujing, Avenue, Dongcheng District 北京市东城区王府井大街138号新东安广场写字楼2座7层 Zhongyu Mansion [New] 北京中宇大厦 6/F, Zhongyu Mansion, No.6 North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦6层 Diplomatic [New] 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区亮马桥外交办公大楼E座17层 Kerry Centre - South Tower [New] 北京嘉里中心-南楼 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 Landgent Building [Coming Soon] 北京乐成中心 5/F, Block A, Landgent Center, No.20 East Middle 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang District C 北京市朝阳区东三环中路20号乐成中心A座5 层 M

China Life – West 北京中国人寿大厦-西 West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层西区 IFC 北京财源国际中心 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲8号财源国际中心东座10层 Prosper Center 北京世纪财富中心 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang Hua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6 层 Financial St. Excel Centre 北京金融街卓著中心 12/F, Financial Street Excel, Centre, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District 北京市西城区武定侯街6号卓著国际金融中心 12层 NCI Centre 北京新华保险大厦中心 15/F, NCI Tower, No.12A Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲12号新华保险大厦15层 Taikang Financial Tower 北京泰康金融大厦 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦 23层 Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 北京中关村欧美汇大厦 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District 北京市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大厦7层

China World Tower 3 Y 北京国贸三期 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District CM 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 MY 15层 Lufthansa Centre CY 北京燕莎中心 C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao CMY Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 K

Kerry Centre 北京嘉里中心

CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center

CLASSIFIEDS We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and Pacific region, and our headquarters is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services. Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, Taiyanggong, Beijing Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591 Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com Website: www.csochina.cn Tel: 86 10 64697000 Servcorp Smart businesses understand that flexibility is the future of the workplace. They choose the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow their businesses, run critical projects and give their people flexibility. Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) Need flexible and affordable ready workspace to enhance your business or register a representative office for your temporary projects in Beijing? We have the perfect solution. Located within a Grade-A building in the popular Lufthansa Business Area, our work-spaces provide you, or your company, with the ideal business identity, and most importantly, come with the most competitive rates to minimize your cost and risks. Please contact: > Gateway Plaza, Tower A, Suite 16D , NE 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路霞光里18号佳程广场A座16D T:01084400606 M:15910782518 Cynthia LU

CAR RENTAL SERVICE Beijing First Choice Car Rental Service Co., Ltd We offer short and long term vehicle leasing services for both business and sightseeing. Our commpany could provide the latest elite, high-end vehicles such as Mercedes Benz S300, BMW S5 and more! Contact our friendly representatives for more information. Tel: 138 1015 6525/6434 0778 www.fccars.cn fccars@live.cn Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd Beijing Top-A Vehicle Service provides: *English -speaking driver *Long-short term leasing *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan, Van and Bus We, ES-PATS Life Group, also serves with Mandarin, housemaid, Visa, driver, driving license, vehicle registration service. Tel: 6438 1634, 1350 123 7292, service@ expatslife.com www.expatslife.com Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd *Long/Short term leasing *Daily car service *Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car service *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat, Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito, Hyundai) and Buses *Native drivers with good English *More information please contact Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256 FAx:6504 7256 www.sxsdcar.com Email:car-rental@live.com

CABLE SERVICES Super IPTV

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HISTORY

COMING OUT FROM THE COLD Ice hockey is growing in China, fast – and with Beijing and Zhangjiakou having recently secured the rights to host the 2022 Winter Olympics, it’s only going to get bigger still. We meet up with China-based Canadian hockey coach Mark Simon to get the lowdown on the sport’s development. — How did you get involved in hockey in China? I came over here from Canada in 2006 just to teach English for a year – I had no idea that people played hockey in China. But, then about a year in, I discovered a men’s league in Beijing, and through that I got connected to one of the local kids’ clubs –called the Imperial Guard – where I began coaching. I realized there was a gap in the market for someone like me – someone from a hockey background, and passionate about the sport – who wanted to help promote hockey and coach in China. So, I stopped teaching English and just put everything into hockey. Today I run hockey training camps all over Asia, promoting the game, helping to organize tournaments and of course, coaching wherever possible. — So it’s safe to say you’ve always loved hockey? Oh yeah! It’s been my life since I first started playing around four or five years old. I continued playing through high school at quite a high level until I was around 19 when I realized I wasn’t going to become professional. After that I played mainly for fun. — Who’s your team? The Montreal Canadians. I was born in Montreal, and that’s where I spent most of my childhood. — Comparatively, how popular is hockey in China right now? There’s about 2,000 kids playing hockey in Beijing. It’s growing a lot, in line with all the new ice rinks being built. The first kids league was started in 2008, with just four teams – of which ours was one – and that developed into four divisions of different age groups and lots of kids. Shanghai, meanwhile, is roughly five years behind Beijing in terms of development, mostly due to its more southern – and hotter – location. So what’s next for you? I’m just finalizing a new role with a company called champion rinks, who have about 25 rinks around China in different cities. Their flagship rink is in Joy City Mall, which is where I held a recent tournament this summer. The plan is to start doing a lot tournaments, in addition to the current camps in China and other places like Thailand, as well as the liaising, consulting and coaching. 8 0 | S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

— How much of an improvement has taken place since 2006? Numbers wise, it’s great – it’s gone from a few hundred to a few thousand kids playing regularly in Beijing. It’s really good to see so many kids out there each week. The disappointing part for me, is that playing lives tend to be limited to five years for most kids. What that means, is that most kids will start at around six years old, play like crazy for about five years, and then slowly give up. Unfortunately, despite the massive enthusiasm on a grass roots level, there’s not yet a real player development infrastructure in place. And so once these kids reach 12 or 13, there’s nowhere for them to go. There’s no leagues for kids aged 13 and up. In addition, there’s no single unified league structure. Right now, the system is incredibly fragmented. There’ so many competing leagues and teams across China, that it’s impossible to determine the very best players – or create an all star team. Which is what you need ultimately, if the sport is going to develop at a higher level in China. — What affect do you see the Winter Olympics having on the sport? The growth has never been an issue and I think there’s no doubt the Olympics will help to further stimulate that growth. I truly hope from an infrastructure perspective it has an affect too. There’s a kid from Beijing who was recently drafted into the NHL [US National Hockey League]. He left Beijing when he was 10 and moved to Toronto, so he’s not a direct product of China’s hockey scene – but he has the potential to be its superstar, it’s Yao Ming. I hope these things will make everyone ask how can China mirror the Canadian structure. Now, I’m not saying you can just airlift a program from one country to another. Lots of cultural adjustments will need to be made. But the relevant sporting authorities here need to create a system whereby kids – especially teenage kids – can play a Triple A level [highest standard] of hockey. I think there’s opportunities to make that happen and I’d love to be a part of that discussion.

For more information about how to get involved in Beijing hockey, email: marksim14@hotmail.com