That's Beijing - October 2015

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4 00 8 2 0 8428 城市漫步北京 英文版 10 月份 国 内 统 一 刊 号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press

ISSN 1672-8025

OCTOBER 2015

主管单位 ：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 ：五洲传播出版社 地址 ：北京市海淀区北三环中路 31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press 李红杰 Li Hongjie 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 刘扬 Liu Yang 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静，李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Stephen George Deputy Editor Oscar Holland Senior Editors Marianna Cerini, Noelle Mateer Staff Reporter Dominique Wong Designers Tin Wu, Xiaoran Li Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Andrew Chin, Mia Li, Krish Raghav, Wang Xuejun, Xu Jia, Trevor Marshallsea

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EDITOR’S NOTE

DEALS

We‘re giving away tickets to some of

OCTOBER

the very biggest

I’VE WRITTEN MANY A FAREWELL EDITOR’S NOTE TO DEPARTING COLLEAGUES OVER THE

last few months – and now comes the time to write my own.

It’s been almost exactly two years since I took up the role of Editor-in-Chief. There was no initiation ceremony, no formal induction – at least that I can remember – no explanation as to the task at hand, merely the vaguest of commands: ‘make money and don’t get in too much trouble.’ It’s hard to know precisely how well I’ve fared, though I’d like to think that by virtue of the fact you’re reading this note, I’ve managed to fulfill at least one of those requirements.

Beijing is many things. Infuriating, maddening, exhausting, yes, but never dull. So it follows that running a magazine about Beijing is much the same. The last two years – though just a blip in the long history of the capital – have left me with a lifetime’s worth of stories, for which I will be forever grateful.

My first act as Editor-in-Chief was to redesign the magazine – the person who helped me make that possible, our Head Designer Tin Wu, joins me in leaving this month. The two of us took up our respective roles on the same day, and along with the rest of the team set about attempting to transform the magazine into the type of feature-led publication we would feel proud to pick up in any major global city.

I hope something of that ambition has carried over into our work, and you have enjoyed reading the magazine throughout the last 24 months. I am now handing the reigns to my good friend and colleague Oscar Holland, who I am confident will continue to produce the type of curious, quality writing for which the magazine has become known.

Thank you for all your support. It’s been quite the ride.

Beijing events, parties, openings, shows and talks all month, alongside a whole other host of free meals, drinks discounts and giveaways. All you have to do is scan the QR code below, follow us on WeChat and stay alert for your chance to win

Stephen George Editor-in-Chief

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

T hats_Beijing Special thanks to my team – I cannot imagine a smarter, more humorous or committed group of individuals than the ones I have been fortunate enough to have worked alongside.

I will miss you all.

t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s B e i j i n g facebook .com/ T hatsBeijing

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QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“In terms of population, China should have more trangender people than anywhere else in the world” International school student, Hitomi, who is undergoing hormone replacement therapy, page 12

6 CIT Y 8 BOOZE CRUISE The not-so-lighthearted side of chugging brewskis 9 MOBILE MAL AISE How would Confucius handle… texting a boy?

1 2 GE NDE R M A? Life as a transgender person in Beijing

12

18 LIFE & ST YLE

18 TOTES R US Founder of R Factory talks inspiration behind her line of bags 20 OFFICE HOURS Let your clothes do the work for you

26 YEE ZUS ROSE AGAIN All the latest arrivals – including Kanye’s new line for Adidas

18

30 ARTS

32 DPR-OK We talk to the experts about North Koreans with money

37 MOMMY DEAREST Proximity Butterfly dedicates rock songs to moms 38 WRITE ON TIME The Bookworm focuses on emerging Chinese writers

32

5 2 E AT & D R I N K 54 BACK IN BL ACK We devour every charcoal-colored food in the city 5 8 L O O K M A , N O PAW S That’s Beijing’s inaugural dog food review 59 EYE OF THE TIGER Why new restaurant White Tiger Village is worth keeping an eye on 4 | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

58

THE WRAP 40 CAPITAL GAINS

The artists, villagers and preoprty developers of Tongzhou brace themselves for irreversible change 80 SKETCH COMEDY Our new monthly comic strip by Krish Raghav draws on Beijing for inspiration

22 GOING VOGUE A day with Vogue China’s editorin-chief, Angelica Cheung W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 5

THE BUZZ T H E S T R E E T S A R E H U N G RY A sinkhole in Fengtai district swallows a Toyota Corrola on September 7.

Fortunately, the owner – a local businessman – wasn’t in the car at the time of the incident. This is not the first sinkhole to have appeared in Fengtai, in 2011 a large truck was swallowed suddenly while driving through the district.

G E T T I N G LO O PY

If you think a “Hyperloop” sounds futuristic, you’re right. But it could, one day, be coming to China, reducing travel time between Beijing and Shanghai to just one hour. What’s a Hyperloop, you ask?

It’s a low-pressure tube in which capsules containing passengers could travel at the speed of sound. The deputy chairman of US firm Hyperloop Transportation Technologies, Bibop G. Gresta, was in China last month looking for investors to back a direct BeijingShanghai line. In addition to being significantly quicker than current flights (two hours) and high-speed trains (five hours), Gresta claims that Hyperloop tunnels between the two cities could transport seven times as many people than the existing rail link.

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RANDOM NUMBER

... is the number of runners who reportedly suffered heart attacks during the Beijing Marathon last month.

This doesn’t include a race official, who would bring the tally up to seven. There is, however, a dispute as to the accuracy of these figures, which originated from Weibo and have been picked up by many international news outlets, but refuted by others. Ultimately, there’s only one thing we can say about the race for sure: pollution was bad – the AQI hit unhealthy heights of 191.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

A I R T R A F F I C CO N T R O L

AS K A L AO B E I J I N G

Remember how excited we were when we found out PEK airport would start offering 72-hour visa-free stays? Well cue the excitement again: the number of hours might just rise. Last month, Beijing International Airport applied to extend the maximum visa-free time period to one week, in a bid to attract more international travelers.

According to Beijing Daily, only 25 percent of people passing through Beijing International Airport are foreign tourists, far lower than the likes of South Korea’s Incheon International. Beijing hopes to lure both short-stay visitors and people choosing the capital as their stop-off point for indirect journeys. All of this, however, is contingent on the plan’s approval.

We met Dong, 53, sitting outside his apartment in Sanlitun where he was chatting with neighbors

Q U OT E O F T H E M O N T H

“This is a big deal – It is the heavy hitters” Los Angeles Mayor Eric Garcetti humbly assesses the deal he struck between LA and Beijing last month. The two smoggy cities have announced a joint plan to reach their greenhouse gas emissions peak in 2020, which is 10 years ahead of schedule. But it’s not just LA and the Jing that are in on this – they’re simply leading the pack. Ten other Chinese cities are aiming to begin reductions from 2020, accounting for roughly a quarter of China’s total emissions. In short, things will get better, just not quite yet.

D o yo u th in k to d ay ’s yo u n g p e o p le a re le s s p a tr io ti c th a n in th e p a s t?

Young people today definitely aren’t as patriotic! They just love money, not their country. When I was younger, I helped a lot of old people to do odd jobs but these days, you never see young people doing the same. I think that if China had to send soldiers away to fight today, no young people would go!

When I was a child, if there was an event at Tiananmen I would always go and check it out. I would walk there from my home while holding the Chinese flag. We would all be very proud to stand in the square. Now, nobody does this.

I don’t have children of my own but I know young people love to spend money, especially in Beijing where young people seem to buy things with no control. Every young person I know has a credit card and overdraft.

Back in the day, when we earned one jiao, we would spend three fen, but now when young people earn one jiao they spend two mao.

Chinese young people just like to buy nice cars, like BMWs, and expensive clothes because they think it looks good. It’s all about appearances; they want to seem like they can keep up with the neighbors.

I think this is because of the market reform and opening up of the economy. There’s a popular saying: xiang qian kan (向前看). It means to “keep looking ahead” but young people seem to interpret the qian as money (钱, also qian).

Deng Xiaoping had a famous saying: “It doesn't matter whether a cat is white or black, as long as it catches mice.” Young people probably haven’t even heard of these sayings; they don’t really care about China’s history. Also, in Sanlitun, girls are wearing less and less clothing, and they all drink and smoke. They are always with foreign men at the bars – why, are there no more Chinese people for them to be with? [laughs] As told to Dominique Wong W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7

CI T Y | TA LES

TALES OF THE CITY

THE RISE OF UN SA F E D R I N K I N G IN CHINA Perhaps the most shared thing on our WeChat Moments last month – apart from Minions memes, seriously guys, stop it – was a wild story of binge-drinking.

A woman surnamed Zhou made international headlines when airport security attempted to confiscate her bottle of RMB1,200 Remy Martin Excellence XO (the high-end cognac of which rappers delight in informing us gets them inebriated) before a Beijing-to-Wenzhou flight. But rather than hand it over, Zhao sat in a corner by herself and chugged the entire thing.

So Zhao became drunk. Very, very drunk.

According to witnesses she began rolling around on the floor, screaming belligerently at passengers and staff, and generally making a nuisance of herself. Airport staff refused to let her board (seems legit) and instead placed Zhao under the ‘care’ of police until a member of her family could arrive to pick her up.

Headlines across the globe hailed our cognac-chugging protagonist as a “Hero” and a “Total Ledge.” But because we take a perverse pleasure in ruining others’ fun, we decided to research the state of alcohol8 | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

related health problems in China instead.

Since China’s reform and opening-up in the 80s, alcohol-related health problems have been on the rise, and annual per capita consumption rose from 2.5 to 6.7 liters of pure alcohol between 1978 to 2010. This is in part due to rising incomes, which make drinking more accessible, and business practices that encourage whitecollar workers to ganbei with colleagues and clients. According to a Wiley-Blackwell study, 26 percent of men and 8 percent of women who drink are “frequent drinkers,” meaning they drink 5-7 days a week.

Despite this, awareness of alcohol’s harmful health effects is low. This may explain not only the case of Zhao, but also the influx of wild news stories about bingedrinking gone wrong. Take, for instance, a report from Shunyi District Court, where judges are hearing the case of a man who died at a work banquet after drinking three or four bottles of baijiu. Meanwhile, a 2-yearold boy named Cheng Cheng made headlines last year for being the country’s youngest alcoholic, crying out for baijiu when his parents gave him milk.

But contrary to what the Little Cheng Cheng story suggests, it’s older people who are affected by alcoholism the most. In most Western countries (and Wudaokou), binge-drinking peaks in people’s 20s, but in China, middle-agers drink the most. This may explain why the drunkest people you’re likely to run into on the street are those older Beijing-bikinied men who’ve spent the past few hours swilling erguotou (Zhao, for instance, is in her 40s). Good times.

While other countries have made attempts at reducing dangerous drinking habits (with mixed results), China has adopted a more hands off approach. In fact, in 2006 the authorities actually decreased its alreadysmall liquor tax.

Chinese President Xi Jinping has acknowledged the need for change, but until it comes into effect, public education on the dangers of excessive alcohol consumption remains patchy at best.

So might we suggest that the next time you see one of these viral drinking stories, you think twice before you captioning it with “LOL”? There’s Minions memes for that.

Noelle Mateer

W.W. C . D . | C I T Y

Q

A local musician has a crush on me. My friends want me to go on a date with him, but I’m not interested. Recently, after one of his shows, he approached my friends and I to ask for our numbers. They were excited, I wasn’t. Later that night, my meddling friends messaged him from my phone, saying that I wanted to meet up. He’s been messaging me ever since and I’ve been responding out of politeness, even though I have no intention of dating him. He’s asked to meet up several times and I’ve feigned being busy, but at some point that will no longer work.

What’s the best, and most ethical, way to let this guy down?

Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom

WHAT WOULD CONFUCIUS DO

A

You know very well that you don’t wish to have a relationship with the musician but you suffer from the difficulty of telling him the truth. Many others share a similar plight.

Confucius advocated that a person should be straight, honest, frank and sincere. In your situation, letting the other person know you’re not interested in him is the inevitable solution.

So, you could say to him: “I’m not interested.” But of course you don’t need to be so blunt. Confucius said there is a way to carefully choose your words. He does not mean you should lie, but when we come across difficult people and situations, we can adopt a different approach.

The idiom yan wei xin sheng means that a person’s words reflect their thinking. You should of course let the musician understand that you're not interested in him. But at the same time, you can still speak to him with

respect, as an understanding attitude is also very important. If he accepts your attitude, he will be able to accept your meaning. If he is a bad person, then you need not worry.

Confucius said that no good can come from dealing with bad people.

You understand that your opinion is very clear: you don’t want to have contact with the musician, and you definitely don’t wish to have your friends calling the shots for you.

I sincerely hope you will grow through this experience and allow yourself to slowly become older and wiser. As Confucius said: “The wise man is never confused” (Analects, chapter 14).

Wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing Language and

Culture University, specializing in Chinese culture.

His most recent book is entitled Teaching Methods of

Chinese Language and Traditional Culture . Send your ethical dilemma for Professor Wang to bjeditor@ urbanatomy.com

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

THE CHINESE STOCK MARKET CRASH – SHOULD YOU BE WORRIED?

Prof. Christopher Balding of Peking University Talks us Through the Basics I nt e r v i e w a n d t ex t by St e p h e n G e o rg e

It’s been dubbed “Black Monday” – the worst single-day stock-price fall in over eight years on the Shanghai Composite, and the trigger for last month’s global market crash. But while the effects of August 24 continue to reverberate across the world, many in China have been left confused as to the wider implications.

What has caused the sudden dip that saw trillions of yuan wiped from share prices – and how much should investors be worried?

China has over 90 million people with stock trading accounts, significant numbers of whom are first-time investors, whose life savings are – for better or worse – now tied up in shares.

To complicate matters further, the crash has been set against less than ideal economic conditions. China’s economy has enjoyed record levels of growth for 35 years, but with policy makers now warning of a slowdown, is the country’s economic miracle finally drawing to an end – or more pertinently, how much longer can we expect to enjoy 10 kuai bottles of Tsingdao?

To get some perspective on the crash and its likely consequences, we talked with Christopher Balding, associate professor of finance and economics at the HSBC Business School of Peking University Graduate School. What follows is an edited transcript of our conversation.

— China’s market crash saw stocks drop by as much as 8.5 percent, culminating in the worst month for the Chinese stock market since 2009. What led to the crash?

Like many crashes, I don't think anybody really knows. There were a couple of small announcements in advance of the crash, but there was nothing that would have obviously led to a drop of almost 10 percent.

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I know that’s an unsatisfying answer for everyone, but it’s really impossible to point to any one factor.

— What are policymakers doing to help boost the markets?

Essentially, what you want to do when trying to rescue a market is go in with overwhelming strength and power – and draw a line in the sand. The market needs to see that you are completely committed to doing something. But so far, Beijing has taken a less robust approach.

The government – according to most widely cited estimates, though I tend to think it’s higher – has spent about RMB2 trillion since July on propping up the market. This is not an insignificant amount of money. The problem is, one day they appear to support the market – promising to prop it up, and the next day they appear to back off. Consequently, the markets have reacted by becoming volatile. I think this has caused real problems for policymakers trying to instil investor confidence.

— How likely is it that the markets will recover?

I think over the middle- to long-term, it’s going to face a significant amount of downward pressure. The Chinese market can be divided into two segments: there are the very, very large SOEs [state-owned enterprises], especially in financial and industrial sectors – like the Bank of China, that have a very low price-earnings ratio. And then there are the large number of stocks that have an incredibly high price-earnings ratio. Now, almost every indicator available suggests that the second segment is overvalued – especially if you factor in the state of the economy. And the market seems to be agreeing with

FE AT URE | CI T Y

that sentiment, because short of public buying, there doesn't seem to be any major investor interest in Chinese stocks. What this means for tomorrow’s index is anyone’s guess. But long-term, I think we’re going to see a lot of downward pressure.

— Should people be worried? What are the wider implications?

I don't think that the Chinese stock market bears any real relationship to the overall economy, and I don’t think there is much risk of the stock market effecting the economy. There is one very important caveat, however. There are currently about 500 Chinese firms that have suspended their trading. And the primary reason for this appears to be that those companies went out and borrowed money near the peak of the market, to budge their own stock. But when the stock market began to dip, these firms – who owed money with their stock as collateral – found they were unable to pay back the money, or provide more stocks, as required in their loan agreements. So they simply suspended their trading. Now, the most likely scenario is that these companies will have to default on these loans – and that is a very serious problem that could have significant knock-on effects.

— This period of market volatility comes against a backdrop of a slowing economy (China’s current target of 7 percent growth this year would be the country’s slowest in a quarter-century). Xi Jinping has termed this era the ‘new normal’ – to what extent are the two linked, and what does it mean for regular people living in China?

My read on it, is that the Chinese economy overall is under a pretty significant amount of pressure – from the manufacturing businesses themselves, to the subsidiary industries they help support. I’m hearing a lot of stories about factories closing, migrants returning to

their home towns. This is a real challenge to the current leadership – and I think its driving a lot of the current focus in Beijing.

As for how this might effect ‘regular people,’ I think we’ll see fewer new migrants arriving in major cities; wages won’t rise so quickly; and jobs are definitely less secure. I think a lot of people right now are beginning to realize that double-digit growth cannot be indefinitely sustained.

What I don’t see much evidence of is an inflation threat. All evidence indicates that inflation is quite negative – it’s about 6 percent, while consumer inflation is around 1 percent. Of course that could change into the future depending on economic stimulus measures the government might take. Recent policy papers suggest we’re about to enter another period of infrastructure stimulus, especially at a local level. So expect lots of new airports, train stations and business centers. █ Christopher Balding is an associate professor of

finance and economics at the HSBC Business School of Peking University Graduate School. A leading expert in sovereign wealth funds, he is the author of Sovereign Wealth Funds: The New Intersection

of Money and Power published by Oxford University Press. His work has been cited by a variety of global media outlets including The Wall Street Journal and

The Financial Times . His scholarly work has been published in such leading journals as the Review

of International Economics , International Finance Review , and the Journal of Public Economic Theory on such diverse topics as CDS pricing, the WTO and the economics of adoption and abortion.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 1 1

Away From the Lights and Privilege of Celebrity, Beijing’s Growing Transgender Community Struggles for Understanding and Acceptance words by

Dominique Wong

images by

Holly Li

HE IN THE TRAN CIT TRAN IN THE CITY FE AT URE | CI T Y

M

eet Hitomi. His father is Japanese and his mother is Chinese. He goes to international school in Beijing, plays baseball, and wants to study medicine. He also has a twin sister. Last year, for his 16th birthday, his parents paid for him to begin hormone replacement therapy.

Hitomi was born female but identifies as male. He is kuaxingbie, or as it’s known in English: transgender. The World Health Organization defines transgender as “[a] term for people whose gender identity and expression does not conform to the norms and expectations traditionally associated with the sex assigned to them at birth.” Hitomi offers a more succint definition: “Kuaxingbie means you don’t accept your body parts.”

Transgender is often described as an umbrella term because it includes those who identify as gender queer (otherwise known as gender fluid) and bi-gender. It can also be broadly defined to include cross-dressers. Its allencompassing definition means it’s incredibly difficult to quantify the number of people in China identifying as transgender.

Traditionally, transgender people have faced discrimination, owing in part to the fact that China has no specialized anti-discrimination law – and awareness surrounding the issue remains low.

There are hopes within the Beijing trans community that attitudes are changing, however. The last couple of years has seen an increase in the visibility of trans people and issues, with the likes of former Olympic champion Caitlyn Jenner, Orange is the New Black star Laverne Cox and, in China, the male PLA dancer turned popular female television host Jin Xing. Together, they represent the more commonly known version of trans, that is, a person who was born as male but identifies as female, and vice versa. However, there are many trans people who, rather than fit neatly into a binary mold, oscillate between the two or lie somewhere in the middle.

Awareness of the definition is crucial in helping to foster a wider understanding, according to executive

director at the Beijing LGBT Center, Yingxin.

“There’s not only two genders – and we should respect that difference,” she says. “It’s very important to let people know about transgender [issues], because there are myths about transgender people, even within the trans community.”

Yingxin explains that among Beijing’s own transgender groups, a significant number of people believe that only those who undergo surgery are ‘real’ transgender. “Many people still think transgender people all want to change their [birth] gender but that’s not true.”

For Hitomi, it was “always the case” that he identified as male. “My mother told me a story that when I was a child, like three or four years old, I cut my hair by myself.”

He doesn’t remember the incident, but the way he tells it, the story is a reflection of his true identity asserting itself. “You know, nobody knows why some people are transgender. Some people say it’s caused when you’re in your mom’s body – the hormones – others say it’s your environment. It’s the same as why some people are gay.”

Hitomi didn’t really ‘come out’ as transgender so much as he was ‘found out.’ While surfing online two years ago, he accidentally used his parent’s email address to log into transgender and LGBT websites. His mother asked if he was a lesbian. “I told her I was transgender [but] she’d never heard about this before. In China nobody hears about it.”

It may be more accurate to say that Chinese trans culture is ‘seen but not heard.’ Examples of what today’s society would call transgender appear throughout Chinese history as far back as the Ming Dynasty.

Peking Opera often featured male actors playing female characters and the female warrior Mulan was also a cross-dresser (though it remains hotly debated, especially within current trans circles, as to whether these people would today self-identify as trans or whether they were simply forced into their roles as a result of patriarchy and other social forces).

Hitomi’s mother, believing that her son was simply confused, told him that he would become “better in the future,” a common refrain of parents in China. But after several visits to a psychologist (who declared Hitomi was indeed transgender) and a visit to the hospital to check his chromosomes (which were “ordinary”), Hitomi’s mother made a concerted effort to better understand her son’s identity – eventually offering consent for him to begin hormone replacement therapy (HRT) in Japan last year.

Hitomi cites the quality of the therapy in Japan as a deciding factor in the decision to go ahead with the procedure.

“The Chinese [HRT] has many more adverse effects.”

Hitomi self-injects at home every three weeks and will continue to do so indefinitely. There are side effects such as increased acne and an oily complexion, but Hitomi is content. He is confident he will later undergo sexual reassignment surgery (SRS), also in Japan.

“If you want to change your gender [on your Japanese identity documents], you must do the surgery. It’s the only way. Besides, they don’t have good hospitals in China. The government is confused and they don’t yet have sure policies for SRS,” he explains.

Hitomi’s willingness to discuss his personal life has led to invitations from Beijing colleges and universities to speak about his experiences. He’s eager to help educate young people in order for them to better understand themselves.

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RANS IN THE CIT

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Top left | Ran Ran, 27, who is undergoing hormone replacement therapy Above (top) | Drag queen Deng performs at Beijing's first openly gay bar Above (bottom) | International school student Hitomi hopes to undergo sexual reassignment surgery in the future Left | Xiaomi describes herself as 'gender fluid' Overleaf | Owner of Adam's Bar, Mondo Wang, in drag

FE AT URE | CI T Y

“In terms of population, China should have more transgender people than anywhere else in the world,” he says. “So why aren’t they more obvious? It’s because they don’t know they are trans, or don’t have the right language or support to self-define.”

Hitomi’s outreach work has led him to become an active member in the Beijing trans community – and a regular at the Beijing LGBT Center. The Center was established in 2008 and located on the 26th floor in an apartment block in Liufang. Faced with casual discrimination on a daily basis, the Center has become a popular place of refuge among the city’s trans community. Bookshelves filled with LGBT-friendly books and films line the sunshine yellow walls, while the smaller rooms are set with comfy couches. Hitomi goes to the Center every Thursday to meet friends and organize trans events. “In China, gay and lesbian culture is [getting] much bigger. Now we have more transgenders so we should think of some of our own events.”

Hitomi is a popular figure, not only among the LGBT community but also outside of it. He admits that he’s lucky not to have experienced any “genuinely negative” reactions regarding his gender identity – and attributes this to his age (“we’re children, nobody cares about us”) as well as the fact that he attended a Japanese school from grades one to six.

“My friends wouldn’t say anything to me. I played soccer with the boys and they’ve known me since I was a child. It depends on your personality. If I was in Chinese school I might have faced discrimination, but in international school and Japanese school they even have a LGBT transgender class.”

Such classes may soon become part of Chinese schooling too, as the Chinese Ministry of Education will pilot courses on sexuality by the end of next year.

Campaigners hope that the courses, if fully implemented, would pave the way for more open discussion among Chinese youth. Yingxin from the LGBT Center agrees: “In metropolitan cities, generally speaking, people are more queerfriendly, however, it depends on their age. The younger generation is more likely to have higher acceptance. Society needs time to adjust.”

This process can be slow, as China’s gay campaigners can attest. Homosexuality was only formally removed as a mental illness from the Chinese Classification of Mental Disorders in 2001 – and although mainstream public attitudes have grown more tolerant in the intervening years, prejudices continue to linger.

Currently it’s not illegal to be transgender in China, but non-conforming gender

identities are still pathologized as mental disorders. If a transgender person requests a sex change, the standard procedure is that doctors first require the person to undergo a minimum of one-year’s psychological treatment in an attempt to ‘cure’ the desire. Those who seek HRT treatment or SRS surgery at public hospitals, must first provide proof they have completed the yearlong evaluation. As a result, many trans people in China prefer private clinics, or seek treatment abroad in places such as Japan, South Korea and Thailand.

Beijing-based office worker Ran Ran, 27, has spent the last several years exploring this official route. When Ranran, who was born female, expressed homosexuallike tendencies at age 18, his mother took him to their local hospital for a mental assessment. “The doctor said I was a lesbian. In China, homosexuals aren’t seen as mentally unwell, but kuaxingbie are.”

Ran Ran, originally from Anhui, describes himself as a third sex: 70 percent man, 30 percent woman. “But in China, for practical reasons, you often have to be either one or the other, so I chose male.” He has used male washrooms for the last three years. “Now almost everything I do is male-oriented.” He describes this situation as “troublesome.”

Ran Ran began HRT in August in Beijing, though he prefers not to disclose where. He says his voice has deepened considerably and smiles when mentioning his faintly visible moustache. He plans to have breast removal surgery in the future. “Breast removal is about 20 or 30,000 yuan, but the entire female surgery is about 400 or 500,000 yuan at least.”

The cost is high and not solely monetary. “I want to have my own baby before I’m 30. After that I will have breast removal surgery,” says Ran Ran, who hopes to become pregnant himself. In this instance he will stop receiving HRT for six months to avoid any possible ill effects. But if necessary, he is willing to look at surrogacy options abroad. Although possible to arrange, gestational surrogacy is prohibited in China.

Ran Ran has a strong sense of self and feels that complete SRS is unnecessary. As in Japan, an individual in China must complete the procedure to change the gender marked identity on their national identification.

The regulations were tightened in 2009, introducing stipulations such as being over the age of 20, and providing proof of having identified as trans for at least five years. There are no official statistics of the number of people who have had SRS in China.

Ran Ran’s decision not to undergo full SRS is due less to government restrictions (“the criteria aren’t law and people find ways to get around it, anyway”) and more the result of family pressures. He stresses that while Chinese parents can learn to accept their daughter dressing masculine, they cannot accept their child physically changing genders.

Echoing Hitomi’s experience, he explains that “Chinese people think that if you wait until you’re older, you’ll change. They tell me that when I’m 30, I’ll change my mind.” While it’s clear that Ran Ran plans to alter parts of his physical appearance, “changing” his mind is not part of the package. Ultimately, Ran Ran doesn’t see himself as a trans activist, “but I hope that at least I can use my experience to inform others who may be unaware of trans issues or people.”

Another person making an impact in the Beijing trans community is fashion store owner Xiaomi. The 30-something, whose shop, Equal, stocks imported W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 1 5

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Italian shoes, vintage style clothing and a range of sex toys, uses profits from sales to help support LGBT initiatives. Her store, in the Houhai area of Beijing, is emblazoned with the slogan ‘Proud All Of You,’ and aims to be the first retailer in China to sell clothes tailored for the LGBT community.

“A lot of people are not very happy. I understand this myself,” explains Xiaomi.

Sporting towering high heels and a long dress, her confident appearance gives no indication of her long personal battle for selfacceptance. Xiaomi first began to experiment with changing her look to appear more feminine after arriving in Beijing in 2009.

“I realized this was more comfortable for me. It was very relaxing to finally be myself,” she explains.

Xiaomi’s friends already knew she was sexually attracted to men and were quick to accept her new look. “But my mother has never seen me dress like this and doesn’t know I am attracted to men.”

She thinks that people in her hometown in Shanxi wouldn’t understand. “Even in Beijing, if I wear a skirt, when I’m walking down the street older people can be very abusive. I used to get annoyed and be angry, but now I don’t care. I can’t be liked by everyone.”

Xiaomi categorizes herself as gender fluid and hasn’t had SRS. She states reasons like the ongoing government therapy, bad technology, and reduced life expectancy, as well as the fact that she’s happy the way she is. “I’m really enjoying the status of being different characters in front of different people. In front of family I can be a good boy, in front of friends I can be myself.”

Although Xiaomi laments the incompleteness of transgender legislation, such as anti-discrimination and surrogacy laws, she is ultimately positive about the future, believing that “sooner or later” changes for the better will happen.

“It’s still very controversial in China. If there’s a program on TV talking about this, it might be banned, but in Western countries it’s OK. The media is strict, but it’s getting better, slowly.”

At Beijing’s first openly gay bar, Adam’s, there is a similar sense of optimism. It’s Saturday night, and the bar staff are dressed in slinky dresses and Sia-inspired wigs, while co-owner Mondo Wang is almost unrecognizable in make-up, heels and a body-hugging white dress (“Drag is something fun, but not in the heels, my god, it hurts so much”).

Backstage, make-up artists apply eye shadow to one of the event’s ‘queens,’ while Beyonce, Rihanna, and Gnarls Barkley’s ‘F*ck You’ blast from the speakers. “Anyone can come to this bar. You’re bullied outside, you’re protected and loved here,” says Mondo, before introducing us to his friend Deng.

Known tonight as ‘Dana,’ 20-something Deng identifies as a straight male, but enjoys wearing women’s clothing. Tonight marks his first public drag performance. His parents don’t accept it, “but I feel good and it’s funny and makes me happy… [I can] change myself and try different things. I respect transgender people – it’s a personal decision.”

According to Mondo, his transsexual friends are, “the best people I’ve ever met in this world [because] they think carefully but do things with a big heart.” He’s hopeful about transgender rights in the future. “People are changing, Beijing is changing. Twenty years ago Beijing was a completely different city, and now look at it.” █

CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY | CIT Y

He-he \Hē- hē\ 呵呵 Int. A response that indicates both disagreement with something or someone, and a desire to avoid conflict by not discussing or explaining the reason(s) for said opinion.

I have to say The Big Bang Theory is the best sitcom of our generation.

He-he.

This fish dish is delicious isn’t it?

Oh yes I couldn’t agree more.

China is a place rife with contradictions. On one hand, it is crowded, noisy and diverse, which means a lot of people have vastly different opinions and can quibble all day long if they have the time. On the other hand, our culture puts such emphasis on social harmony and maintaining the image that everyone gets along, that it leaves little room for open disagreement. So, how do you reconcile the opposing physiological tendencies of both wanting to correct someone and

feeling like you should probably shut up? This is where the phrase he-he comes in. It is what you say to let others know that you strongly disagree with what’s being said but won’t openly challenge them.

Not to be confused with haha (which is the sound of a genuine laugh), he-he sounds more like a dismissive snort or a compromising grunt. You use it when you just can’t possibly agree with what was said but don’t want to endanger the harmonious atmosphere. Others in the conversation are then duly alerted of your dissent.

If anyone wants to learn more about it, they will ask you and if the social harmony is destroyed, it wouldn’t be your fault. Such is the social contract of he-he.

Instead of that ‘dislike’ button that Facebook is working on, China’s social media has a ‘he-he’ button to express disagreement. (Cyber harmony is important too.) Given that the ‘like’ button allows you to

like something without having to specify why, the ‘he-he’ button the perfect opposite.

Next time your web post gets a he-he response, you’ll know that someone just can’t agree with you, but is noble enough to sacrifice their opinion for the sake of a friendly atmosphere.

(If you are up for some friendly debate, ask that person for their opinion and they might surprise you.)

So before you head out to your next dinner party, be sure to sharpen your he-he skills.

Give face to your fellow party guests by having some pleasant and non-confrontational conversations and save the heated debate for private occasions. Your pointed remarks may show off your aboveaverage intellect, but harmony is the real social currency in China.

By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in

Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

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COV E T

Flash Art

“ T H E M A I N T H I N G F O R M E I S TO C R E AT E TOT E S P E O P L E C A N H AV E

If the thought of using flashcards to learn your hanzi makes you shrivel and almost puke, well, we hear ya. We’ve been there too. But fret no more – Chineasy is here. Featuring over 100 pictorial postcards with simplified, sleek graphics and images, this compact booklet makes memorizing characters something you’ll actually want to do – each card is fun, whimsical and pretty darn cute. RMB180 (and they’ve got a phone app, too). > Available at the Bookworm, Courtyard

4, Gongti Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北

路 4 号院 (6586 9507, beijingbookworm. com)

PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

S T YLE RADAR

LIFE & STYLE

V E R SAT I L I T Y I S A M U S T ”

S P OT L I G H T

Wu Yingnan, Founder of R Factory Bright and Green Light bulbs aren’t the most exciting things to covet, but this one by Chinese green tech company Nanoleaf is seriously dope. Marketed as ‘the world’s most efficient light bulb,’ it only uses 10 watts of energy to produce 1,200 lumens at its brightest, equivalent to a 75watt incandescent light bulb.

For now, the Nanoleaf Bloom (that’s its name) is exclusively available online at Baidu Future Shop, and comes with a desk lamp whose touch sensor acts as the light switch. Go green or go home. RMB198. > store.baidu.com

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— Tell us a little bit about your background.

I graduated from Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology (BIFT) in 2002, though in a more commercial-minded major – nothing to do with design in fact – and then randomly began working as a tour guide for a big travel agency. I’ve always liked speaking English and wanted to get really good at it.

I did that for two years, got bored and decided to try to follow my real passion: fashion.

I used to read magazines like Elle and Cosmopolitan almost fanatically, so I thought ‘why don’t I try get into media?’ And I did that. I sent countless job applications, spoke to people, networked and finally got a marketing role at TransMedia Group. I had no experience at all, which made it pretty interesting. I was there for nine years, till a trip to the US made me fall in love with second-

hand and vintage clothing. I got back to Beijing and started doing flea markets here, at the now deceased 2 Kolegas. After a while, the idea to launch my own retro-flavored brand sprouted in my head. R Factory was born out of that at the end of 2010.

— Why the name R Factory?

I was drawn to the complex imagery that the word ‘factory’ inspires. We think of factories as busy places where things get mass-produced. But factories are also spaces that make beautiful things. The juxtaposition fascinated me.

As for the ‘R’… I’ve always been attracted to words like ‘rich,’ ‘retro,’ ‘revolution,’ ‘rebel.’ It was an easy decision.

— You mostly design bags.

How do you come up with different designs?

The main thing for me is to create totes people can have fun with. Versatility is a must.

Almost all R Factory bags are adaptable, from reversible

details to detachable parts and removable straps. I like the idea of interacting with your accessories. You own them, not the other way round.

— How would you describe your aesthetic?

My personal aesthetic is slightly different from my brand.

R Factory is sophisticated, delicate and fun. It’s innovative with a vintage twist. I am more sober, in a way. I wear black a lot. My clothes have an almost masculine feel. I’m going to branch into womenswear soon and the sketches I have so far are very reflective of my personal style. Simple.

Monochromatic. Comfortable.

— Name one item you couldn’t live without.

My phone. I know it sounds terrible but I do so much business on it, as well as keeping in touch with people and writing reminders, taking notes and pics of my daughter. I can’t imagine not having it! > rfactory.taobao.com

Ed i t e d by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i /

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

UNDER THE LENS

The Nike Studio It’s a gym. It’s an art gallery. It’s… both? To celebrate the 2015 World Athletic Championships in Beijing, sport giant Nike has partnered up with a Beijing art gallery and installed a jawdropping workout space within its premises. Spearheaded by Shanghai-based design studio Coordination Asia, the project – called (somewhat unoriginally) The Nike Studio – transforms a 1,200-sqm venue into an immersive, multi-functional lounge experience. Infinity motifs are relayed through

interactive installations and LED-lit display cases, while free-floating installations combine motivational phrases with the brand’s new Holiday 2015 collection. Workout zones are outfitted in black with contrasting beams, while lowslung benches are surrounded by gleaming pillars. So far, Nike hasn't disclosed the name of the gallery involved, so you'll have to put your running shoes on and just track it down yourself.

MADE IN CHINA

American Look, Beijing style

OV E R H E A R D

“IN ANCIENT TIMES, POOR FAMILIES WOULD STICK G R AS S O N T H E I R K I D S ’ H E A D S , W H I C H I N D I C AT E D T H AT T H E Y WERE GOING TO SELL THEM T O S AV E T H E I R F A M I LY F R O M S T A RV I N G . E V E RY T I M E I S E E P E O P L E W E A R I N G A G R AS S HAIRPIN, I CAN'T HELP BUT T H I N K O F T H AT ’

We are suckers for cool packaging. Give us bold graphics, sleek fonts, neat layout and clean lines and we’ll buy whatever you’re trying to sell us in a heartbeat. No joke. If that happens to be chocolate, well… we’d instantly rank you among some of our best friends. That’s how we felt with Veins Design Collaborative (VDC). Started in 2014 by Emma Zhou and Sean Liang, VDC is a Beijing-based creative venture making functional and aesthetic works that blend art, graphics, product design and, for their latest project, food. Called Wave Chocolate Edition, the ultra-rad samples of contemporary design displayed here rethink everyday chocolate bars in an unimaginably hip way. Drawing inspiration from nature

and the four seasons, each chocolate wrap and the bar it encloses (made from scratch

by Liang and Zhou) shows a flowing, wavy design, rendered with simple splashes of color and brushstroke-like lines. The effect is starkly attractive, making for a really fresh approach to an already gratifying product. A win-win on all fronts. VCD has done four different Wave editions, all using 72-percent dark chocolate: Spring (matcha), Summer (raspberry), Autumn (orange) and Classic (milk). RMB180-220. > veinsdesign.tumblr.com

A Chinese netizen commenting on the rising popularity of the quirky ‘beansprout hairpin’ – a sort of floral antenna accessory that has, literally, been sprouting on the heads of Chinese youths recently.

Sightings of people walking around with flickering grass, flowers, cherries, mushrooms and butterflies in their hair have been made across Beijing.

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LIFE & S T Y LE | FASHION

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by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

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Zara shirt, RMB599 > www.zara.cn

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H&M sweater, RMB399 > www.hm.com

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COS necklace, RMB290 > www.cosstores.com

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Topshop cape, RMB338 > www.topshop.com

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Zara skirt, RMB399 > www.zara.cn

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COS round-heel shoes, RMB1,500 > www.cosstores.com

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Calvin Klein leather handheld bag, RMB3,011.41 > www.asos.com

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u e yo her on't w me p l e d c r i s p t o a r so l f o o s t p e l l y on e w h a l e r w a m a i c c s ad ss d d r e e – a n , e s p e h t no t , bu t a s e o t e r m i g g a r b l wo a r d t t o b of f ic t ’s h ’t wan in an re, you your ou fee f f don t to be ay. Su hink o a ke y as i d n t l a y s a ac t l ac k l m e w n n o u t o ll um ag p i s g a b or aut colle t f it w i s s t e a i r i n g ue s , u s e r i u u . o m o p y y g b r o y b lo r d a mon a l l – k in loo t you t com ter at brow n f r ump ause u s abo he mo ’t mat e t at t y w it h a et bec s n T ks o e s h s om l s k i r t u r c l o lo o o i le d it key e d ge s t y p e r w p e nc g i n y o d n d t w t he jum l-f it te keepi h.” c ke t a ke i l l p g i l a n r e s t i l e nou we ’v e l l h e lp r k . ’ ’ o y ou f or m a on t h , – t h a t y a t w s m r a ’ e s d i h l “ it l h d S o t i m a n i s e du r h t he r w o f – o an of f

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W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 1

by MARIANNA CERINI Founding Editor of Vogue China Angelica Cheung talks fashion, motivation – and why she’s not nearly as unapproachable as people think

FE AT URE | LIFE & S T Y LE

If American Vogue editor Anna Wintour has a reputation for being intimidating – then Angelica Cheung should be wholly unapproachable. As the editor-in-chief of Vogue China (and the youngest person to take up that role in the history of Vogue worldwide), Cheung presides over a title whose readership is greater than the British, French, Italian and German Vogues combined.

Since launching the magazine in 2005, Cheung has built one of the title’s most dynamic and international editions practically from scratch. In an industry where shrinking advertising revenues seem to be affecting everyone, Cheung has managed to continually increase editorial volume, simply to keep up with advertisers' demands.

Her magazine is so popular, in fact, that Cheung has been forced to add 12 supplements a year to the monthly publications. On top of that, of course, there are her rising number of digital products – iPad editions, WeChat subscriptions, mobile apps and the like.

“People have this image of me as ‘daunting,’” she says, beckoning me to sit down, from behind her desk. “But once you get to know me, you realize I’m pretty nice.”

It’s 8.45 on a Monday morning, and unsurprisingly, Cheung is the first one to arrive at Vogue’s Beijing office – a sleek, airy open space in the capital’s Central China Place.

Framed by her renowned asymmetrical, sharp black bob – a style she’s had for 14 years – there’s a refreshing frankness about her that, while not necessarily ‘nice,’ is certainly unaffected. “I am not in it for the glamour,” she says. “Those who are don’t last very long. And I am not a ‘fashionista.’

I’m in it for the ride – the people you meet, the things you achieve, the reach you have.

I look at the business with an objective perspective. That’s what has given me an edge compared to other editors.”

That edge has seen Cheung move beyond the rarified confines of the media and fashion worlds to become something of a spokesperson for modern Chinese women. As much of a tastemaker as a businesswoman, Cheung has set a new bar for fashion in China. If sophisticated Chinese women in first-tier cities now know their foreign brands, their Haider Ackermann from their Balmain, and aspire to a more individualistic code of dress, it is – at least in part – because of her.

But Cheung has also helped put Chinese designers and models on the international stage. Without her support and ambassadorship, The Met's show, China: Through the Looking Glass, wouldn't have been possible. (The show is currently the museum’s most successful exhibition to date.)

As she bluntly puts it: “The whole industry in China only started when I started the magazine. It took 50 years for Europe to build this. It took us less than a decade.”

They key behind such unrelenting success is commitment, she says.

“I’ve always been dedicated to anything I’ve set my mind to. Once I decide to do something, I stick with it 100 percent. I’ve done the same with Vogue.”

Born in Beijing in 1966, the daughter of a Chinese diplomat, Cheung grew up during the country’s Cultural Revolution.

While that experience was painful for many older Chinese people, Cheung’s memories of the time are mostly lighthearted. “It was a very normal childhood, just like any other,” she recounts. “We spent it learning from Lei Feng [the orphanturned-model-soldier who darned his fellow

“I am not in it for the glamour.

I’m in it for the ride”

soldiers' socks late at night], sweeping the streets with brooms, stopping buses on the road to clean the windows, studying from Mao’s Little Red Book. It was hard on many, no doubt about that. But for us kids, it was kind of fun.”

That childhood ended as Cheung finished elementary school, during the beginning of China’s reform and opening up in 1978. She and her peers were the first to compete in the newly introduced examinations, giving her a firmer guarantee of a university place.

“My mother really began to push me to take my studies seriously then,” she says.

“She was quite the tiger mum.” For one year, her mother banned watching television and reading novels, and every day after school, Cheung would have to spend hours memorizing historical dates, names and the locations of rivers and mountains.

The hard work paid off. Cheung – who had been exposed to English since infancy and attended an English-language middle school – ended up enrolling at Beida, often described as China's top university. She remembers those years with fondness.

“My Beida classmates and I were the last generation of idealists in China,” she says. “And that still seeps through the way I approach my work today.”

She studied English literature and law and received an MBA from the University of South Australia. Her goal, she says, was to become a lawyer. “I was convinced I was going to pursue a legal career. Up until I launched Vogue, working in media was just a means to broaden my experience, my knowledge of the world.”

She entered the publishing industry after moving to Hong Kong in the early 1990s, following a stint in the corporate and sector.

“The plan was for me to go to America, like everybody else did at the time, to further my law studies,” she says. “But I decided to take a ‘gap year’ in Hong Kong. I wanted to meet different people, expose myself to a wide range of realities. Working in business didn’t really enable me to do that, however.

So I decided to have a go at journalism.”

The first publication to offer her a shot was the Eastern Express, an English-language newspaper, covering culture, arts, fashion and lifestyle.

Always striving to stand out from the crowd, she produced a profile series on young, successful Mainland Chinese in Hong Kong, which ultimately became her breakthrough feature. “I did it at a time when popular culture used to represent mainlanders as uncouth, gold diggers, peasants,” she recalls.

“It was a bold editorial decision. It got people thinking about China and the possibilities it held under a new light.”

Cheung continued covering all aspects of life in the former British colony in the runup to the handover to the PRC in 1997. Her writing landed her a position as executive editor for the lifestyle features of daily newspaper Hong Kong iMail, which she helped launch.

But getting back into law remained her focus. “Throughout those years, I never really stopped studying.” Media job offers kept popping up, however, and in 2001 Marie Claire Hong Kong hired her as Editorin-Chief. Two years later, she moved to Shanghai as editorial director of Elle China.

“It was all supposed to be temporary,” she laughs. “I kept giving myself one, or two years in each job.”

The call to edit the launch of Vogue China came in 2005. At first, Cheung almost sneered at the opportunity. “Condé Nast reached out at a time when I was seriously considering leaving the industry,” she says. ”I thought I’d had enough of fashion W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 3

LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

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for Europe to build this. It took us less than a decade”

In September 2005, only six months after taking the job, Cheung released Vogue China’s first issue, with an initial run of 300,000 copies. The model on the cover was Du Juan, hugely famous in her own right, who went on to become the first Chinese supermodel. It sold out almost instantly, leading to a second print. Circulation climbed quickly, and ad sales took off.

Despite its resounding success, Cheung still faced difficulties getting the magazine off the ground. “Nobody knew me internationally,” she says. “Nobody had set foot here before. The general idea was ‘It’s China. They have money but no taste.’ I had to project a high level of confidence in what we were doing to earn the respect of the industry and change that attitude. The challenge made it interesting.”

At the time, China’s domestic fashion industry was still finding its feet. The country did not have homegrown international-level photographers, stylists or models, and people understood little about how they worked. Aiming to make a Vogue that matched international standards, Cheung brought foreign talent on board – French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier, and Carine Roitfeld, former editor of French Vogue as stylist. However, as helpful as their insight was, the fashion luminaries understood little about China.

“There was a very orientalist vision of the country,” says Cheung. “Or too European, if you like. All these people knew were Wong Kar-wai movies, Maggie Cheung and Zhang Ziyi. Naturally, they wanted to show an image of beauty rooted in the past, and shoot the models wearing ‘exotic’ costumes in some ‘ancient’ location. I had to act quite diplomatically to make them see these were stereotypes. It wasn’t easy.”

“Another problem was that no one wanted to shoot Chinese models,” adds Cheung.

“The whole industry in China only started

when I started the magazine. It took 50 years

magazines. They said ‘But it’s Vogue.’ And I replied, ‘Yeah but it’s still another glossy.’

And then it was something they said: ‘You are going to regret it if you don’t.’ It got me thinking. I started delving further into the publication, and realized I’d have the world’s top resources to bring to China. So I took the job – again, with the plan to leave after the launch.”

Up until then, international titles still saw China as a crass backwater with no real potential for a well-read audience.

Many magazines would simply syndicate and translate materials from their foreign counterparts.

“But Condé Nast wanted to do something different. They were looking for original content. It dawned on me that I could create something entirely new."

And she did.

editorial pages each month, about three times as many as American Vogue’s. “I like to feel we are more than a fashion magazine,” she explains. “I am talking to working women, not just fashion-obsessed girls. It’s difficult to keep going for 10 years if you only try to sell bags and shoes. You have to give a meaning to what you do.”

To make it onto the magazine’s cover – which has been graced by Kendall Jenner, Karlie Kloss, Liu Wei and, in the latest (September 2015) issue, 10 A-list Chinese actresses shot by Mario Testino – Cheung requires her subjects to fit the idea of a ‘Vogue woman’: positive, successful, selfconfident, ahead of the trends.

“I want to preach to my readers that they can have it all,” says Cheung, before adding the caveat, “if they want.”

“This was of course 10 years ago. Many photographers didn’t know these girls, so they genuinely didn’t have a feel for them.

Creatively, they didn’t know how to tell their story, emphasize their beauty or establish a relationship.

“I remember asking Anna [Wintour] to help me organize a breakfast meeting with all the model agencies and casting directors in New York, urging them to employ Chinese models at fashion week, so that the industry could get used to them. It was a first, like so many other things we’ve done.”

A decade later, and most of these models – Ming Xi, Liu Wei, Feifei Sun – have become common fixtures of the fashion circuit, so much so that they often no longer have time to shoot for Cheung.

By shunning cliche and transplanted Western ideals, Cheung has shown fashion’s upper echelons the real needs of Chinese readers. For the first few years, Cheung treated Vogue China almost as a textbook, deconstructing trends and explaining fads, cultural icons and style movements from the very beginning for her readership, many of whom were raised solely with imagery of Mao suits.

Her advice is now sought by CEOs and international designers working to establish businesses in China. But in recent years, Cheung toned down the magazine’s focus on clothes – and concentrated instead on women whose work and character readers can empathize with and learn from.

Cheung credits the changes in editorial direction to the birth of her daughter eight years ago. “After Hayley was born, I started thinking about the kind of woman I hoped she would become: stylish, but not a slave to fashion; socially aware, happy, brave and loving.”

The magazine currently runs at 300

For Cheung, that same desire translates into hard work. A typical day will see her wake up at 6.30am to personally take her daughter to school before traveling across town to the office – where she gets an early start, “so that I can enjoy the calm before the storm.”

She takes visitors and calls from New York until about 11am, then spends the rest of the day on internal editorial issues. In the afternoon, she meets with staff – many of whom queue outside her office, with hopes of securing some much-prized facetime. She leaves the office ‘early,’ at 5 or 6, to make sure she’s there when Hayley does her homework. Dinner is with her daughter and her husband Mark. Once Hayley goes to bed, she resumes work. She sticks to a strict policy of attending one, maybe two business dinners per week, and never travels for events. She never does talk shows, and purposely stays away from the limelight.

When she has to travel for work – four months of the year for business and fashion weeks – she tries to bring her family if it’s for longer than three days, so that they can maintain a routine. “I’m a normal working parent, and I do my best to make it work,” she says.

But, as we chat more about her schedule, it is clear that running the most successful Vogue in the world requires more than ‘normal.’

The 49-year-old lives on five hours of sleep. She can go all day without eating, because “I’m just busy thinking of work things.” Often, she tells me, she schedules overnight flights so that she can get to Paris or London in the morning, go to meetings, and then leave again in the evening for the next destination. “I see no point in spending the night in a hotel if I could be traveling while sleeping. If I have an extra hour, I always, always try to squeeze in another meeting.”

Breaking away from the magazine is hard, she says. She doesn’t sleep well as her mind is constantly preoccupied with the next project. “I am a natural worrier. I never stop thinking about work. Sometimes I’ll have a new idea, often while I sleep. It’s hard for me to switch off. My husband says I am lot better than before, but then there’s the digital side of the business… I always think there’s a better way to do things, improve what we’re doing.” She pauses. “You are married to the job, in a way. And you either go full speed, or you do something else.”

Anna Wintour, Cheung says, is the same.

“We have this energy that drives us. The willingness to get the job done. To put in the extra effort. Always.”

Comparisons to her American colleague have been made since Cheung started off at Vogue. She has been dubbed the Wintour of China. I ask her if the association bothers her. “No, not at all. Few things annoy me in life. I think it’s just a way for people to better understand who I am,” she says. “Rumors, gossip, negative comments. They don’t matter. I don't read rubbish on the Internet. I need to be informed, of course – I take good criticism. The rest is just fluff.”

As an editor, her biggest concern remains how best to bridge the gap between China and the rest of the world. “We’ve made tremendous progress, but there’s still a lot of work to do. I don’t see as many Chinese models as I’d like on the runway. Same for Chinese designers. I am proud of my heritage and what I really want is for more people [in the industry] to really understand the country that makes up 50 percent of their business.”

The West is awakening to China’s fashion power. International titles have released China-themed issues, The Met show has been a huge success and many brands have staged exclusive catwalks in the PRC. It's something Cheung takes positively, if with a pinch of salt. “What matters is that people are aware of us,” she says. “Although, of course, the day our economy is down, as is the case now, we might just disappear from their radar. That’s why it’s so important to really grow our sophistication and show our creative potential in an international way.”

Could she do that anywhere else apart from Vogue? “I don’t think so. Working at Vogue, you learn to deal with everybody – from celebrities to cobblers. It gives you the scope of doing different great things within the same role. There’s nothing I would change. And we are only at the beginning,” she says.

“My biggest satisfaction is to have brought us here. So many people thought we were going to fail. I thought we stood a chance.

And look how far we’ve come.” █ W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 5

L IF E & S T Y L E | A R R I VA L S

SCENE & HEARD wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i 3

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Y E E Z Y S E AS O N 1

It’s here guys. The much-awaited collaborative effort between Kanye West and Adidas is about to hit stores this month, though a formal date is yet to be announced. And if the German sport giant is clever enough, we’re sure some if it will be available in China, too. While a handful of sneaker styles from the collab have already been released to the public (sold out almost immediately, but hey, we’re talking Kanye here) the bulk of what the artist-turneddesigner-turned red carpet god showed during last season’s New York Fashion Week is still shrouded in mystery. Prices are out though – think RMB2,500 for a thermal shirt, up to RMB20,000 for a flight jacket – and online site Mr. Porter has confirmed that it will carry the collection (it delivers to China), which is heavy on menswear and unisex pieces. Hot much? You bet. Worth the wait and the money? Absolutely.

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BRAND NEW CHINA

Brand New China (BNC) has a brand new look. The gorgeous multi-brand boutique, opened five years ago in Taikoo Li North by media mogul Hung Huang, was formerly massive. But now the store has been compartmentalized into different areas, raised or enclosed by blonde wood walls, that give way to a beautifully edited selection of clothing, homeware and accessories.

A cafe has also been added, with a large, communal table facing a newly created outdoor patio space where even more Chinese design (BNC is all about promoting ‘Made and Designed in China’) is on show.

The overall feel is that of entering a tasteful maze of creativity – and what’s not to like about that?

> NLG-09a, B1 Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 11 号三里屯太古里 北区 NLG 09a (6416 9045)

> www.adidas.cn

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We personally aren’t fans of skull rings and Hells Angels-inspired baubles, but if you are, you might want to check out King Baby Studio in Sanlitun. The brainchild of bad-boy American jeweler Mitchell Binder, the brand and store sell biker-chic rings, necklaces, pendants and earrings – and nearly everything seems to have some sort of heart or skull or snake motif. The shop itself is spacious and airy, with a goth-looking chandelier hanging from the ceiling, steel and glass display cases and a vintage Harley Davidson deployed as part of the furniture.

It’s all very badass and rock‘n’roll – Binder is the go-to jeweller for some of Hollywood’s top stars and musicians, from Rihanna to Aerosmith and Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Pics of said celebs hang around the shop, a cool display of Americana in the heart of Beijing. Prices are on the steep side (around RMB5,000), but nothing beats wearing a zircon-encrusted eagle ornament. For some, at least.

> 1 S4-11 Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区三里屯路 19 号院太古里南区 4 号楼一层 S4-11 号 (6417 8751)

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SERVICED APARTMENTS | LIFE & ST YLE

TAKING UP RESIDENCE Long-Stay Living at Lee Garden Service Apartment

When making a long-term trip in another city, your residence can make all the difference to your stay. Suddenly it’s not just a serviced apartment – it’s your home.

It’s not just a desk, it’s your office. And they’re not just fellow guests, they’re your neighbors.

While there are a number of short-stay guests at Lee Garden Service Apartments (most likely taking advantage of being so close to some of the capital’s leading tourist attractions), there are also many residents who have made it their home. With the building’s 200 apartments ranging from 60 to 610 sqm in size – and one to four bedrooms – there’s a place for bachelors and families alike.

In order to experience life as a long-term resident (and as a break from our own distinctly un-serviced apartments) we set ourselves up at Lee Garden for a few days.

All while going about our usual business, of course.

Speaking of business, the journey from That’s Beijing towers in Dongzhimen only takes about 20 minutes. In fact, if you were to choose the best spot for most conveniently reaching the three centers of Beijing’s international community – Gulou,

Sanlitun and the CBD – then this might be it. Located close to Dengshikou station, and with a concierge on hand to call taxis to your door, none of our engagements seem far away.

Nor does anything else. Given our proximity to Wangfujing, there are at least five decent malls within a few minutes' walk (and an Ole supermarket for all of our imported cravings). On our first night we decide to take a stroll to pick up some ingredients and make use of the kitchen facilities in our spacious one-bedroom apartment.

Sure, there are excellent restaurants on the second floor featuring a range of Chinese and Western dishes. But anyone who’s spent much time in Beijing will know that finding ways to eat out is easy. The real challenge is finding ways to eat in – most kitchens in downtown apartments are either tiny or part of another room. Not so at Lee Garden, where ours is fully equipped and ready to host our semi-credible attempts at cooking (featuring mildly overpriced produce from a certain aforementioned import supermarket).

It’s getting late and, frankly speaking, we can’t be bothered to clean up. And herein lies

the true beauty of serviced apartment life – we don’t need to. With daily room service available for all residents, you needn’t ever feel guilty about being too busy to keep your apartment in order.

Arriving home the next day, everything is looking spotless, so we decide to unwind with some of the more luxurious services.

The tranquil swimming pool is an elevator ride away, so we get in a few laps before retiring to the hot tub, steam room and sauna (in that order). But while these are all the facilities that make life at Lee Garden a whole lot better than living in a regular apartment, it is the small things that make a difference.

The rooms are comfy and the living room feels just like one we’d like in our own house. The service – from the receptionists to the cleaners – is consistently warm and welcoming. These are the familiarities that make a long-term stay here most appealing – a home away from home, if you will.

Lee Garden Service Apartment, 8 Goldfish Lane (Jinyu Hutong), Wangfujing, Dongcheng 东城区王府井金鱼 胡同 18 号 . For reservations or more information visit www.lgapartment.com/en/, email booking@ lgapartment.com, or call 6525 8855

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LIFE & ST YLE | ADVERTORIAL

FROM SHANGHAI TO BEIJING, JUST DO YOUR THING!

BY CHRIS WARNOCK

Living in metropolises like Beijing and Shanghai is fun and interesting, sure, but it can also feel hectic and monotonous at times. When the absurdities we all know (and sometimes love) about China become all too familiar, there are a few quick and easy ways to rekindle a sense of wonder for your megacity of choice. Here are a few of our favorites.

Trading Spaces

If Beijing is your home base, switch things up and head south to Shanghai. Everyone needs a break from being so close to the heart of the PRC from time to time. If you’ve been keeping it real in Shanghai, go see what all the talk of hutongs and duck is about. A quick one, two shuffle of environment can do wonders to help you see where you reside in a completely different light.

Plus, with cities this large there is always something new to see or do. Plan a trip centered on sampling new food, exploring historic landmarks, or simply relaxing on a rooftop with your beverage of choice while taking in the skyline.

Shanghai

China’s economic showpiece is full of exciting, delightful and surprising opportunities. The streets of Shanghai offer a peak into a unique and layered past defined by foreign settlements, jazz-age decadence, political intrigue and a fervent, newfound entrepreneurial spirit that’s elevating this legendary port city into the top tier of international metropolises.

The Bund’s Art Deco architecture and the charming former French Concession provide two radically different exposures to Europe’s influence on Shanghai. Pudong’s futuristic skyline viewed from the roof of an uptown Bund restaurant offers a taste of posh life in the city. Shanghai’s energy is contagious and there’s something here for everyone.

Staycation

Don’t feel like venturing out? Well, don’t! Stay in your city but consider renting some comfortable accommodations in a different part of town.

You’ll discover new things by spending some time in a new neighborhood, and you’ll get to know your city better when it’s orbiting around you from a different point. You and your significant other can treat yourselves to days at the spa and room service. You’ll also have the chance to rendezvous in the hotel lobby and spice up your relationship by pretending to be strangers! There is always more to see, do and love about the incredible Chinese city you call home. Sometimes a little kick start is required to give you a fresh perspective.

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Any Way You Slice It

Anywhere you choose to go, well beyond Shanghai and Beijing, has the opportunity to show you a completely new and intriguing perspective on China or Asia at large. Readers of That’s are likely familiar with the cities focused on in this article, and if you live abroad you’re likely fascinated with travel. The point is really that you just need to get out there and do something. Keep seeing, experiencing and reveling in how amazing the world is. Accomplishing this doesn’t require traveling too far or even leaving your own city. It just takes a little initiative and open mindedness toward seeing what has perhaps been in front of you all along.

Beijing

The red walls and golden roof tiles of Beijing’s Forbidden City epitomize stereotypical images of China. The labyrinthine lanes seeping through the subdued grey brick hutong neighborhoods conjure up imaginative scenes set in China’s past. All too common traffic jams and dust storms serve as a reminder of the fierce reality behind China’s rapid and expansive growth.

Always reappearing on the global stage, this city is often the face of modern China to the rest of the world. Though it tries to keep its focus on the future, Beijing is saddled with history. Events like the 2008 Olympic Games result in vast reconstruction projects that completely transform the city. Yet despite the swaths of high-rises that edge out old hutong burrows, the essence of old Beijing holds on tight and can often be found in the most unassuming of places.

For more inspiration on where to stay or go, visit Ctrip’s Things To Do webpage (english.ctrip.com/ttd). To find out more about how to save 8% with Visa: 1. Follow CtripInternational on WeChat 2. Send us a message that’s says “Thats8%off” That’s it! We’ll reply with further details about this amazing promotion.

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COLLAGE W H AT ’ S N E W

DRUMROLL

Conrank

After months of regulation, foreign TV shows are beginning to resurface on China’s streaming sites. Among them is the critically-acclaimed Empire, which is being described as a “hip-hop Dynasty.” A ratings sensation in America, the show has won plaudits for its sharp twists, commanding acting performances and top-notch tunes from music supervisor Timbaland. Available at tv.sohu.com.

Douban’s new D-Force record label is on a roll, having recently signed up some of the country’s favorite indie acts. Next up is a second collaboration between Beijing rap legend J-Fever and Los Angeles producer Soulspeak. Centering on themes of love and desire, Color Blind mixes smooth flows with sensuous beats. Sounds to make babies to.

Available at site.douban.com/dforcerecords.

As much as we loathe admitting it, Shanghai is the city in China that never sleeps.

Academics James Farrer and Andrew Field explore the city’s rich nightlife history – from the roaring jazz clubs of the 1920s to the city’s post-1980s revival – in Shanghai Nightscapes. The book examines how and why these inter-cultural communities have formed through the decades. Available on Amazon.

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With rousing sets around the world and the likes of DJ Shadow eager to collaborate, UK-raised, Shanghai-based lord of bass Conrank has been making waves this year.

With a snarling new disc Ma Fan dropping on October 11, we catch up with the man sometimes better known as Chaofan Ge. — Congratulations on the new disc – how would you describe it musically?

Musically it's an ugly monster [laughs], but so ugly that it's beautiful. It’s like a Frankenstein – lots of musical influences and ideas mashed together to create something totally different.

— There are an impressive number of guests on the disc including DJ Shadow.

How did you guys hook up?

Shadow followed me on Twitter which was a huge day for me. We just got chatting and starting sending each other music. I suggested a collabo and he was down.

— You've worked with everyone from Peking Opera singers to Shanghai trap rappers. What do you look for in a collaborator?

Someone I respect artistically, and

professionalism. The latter can sometimes be more important. There’s no point in starting a project with someone who is super creative and talented, if they are so ‘here, there and everywhere’ that it never gets finished. It’s just a waste of time.

— How was touring outside of China?

It's been epic. I have been amazed by how well my sets were received. California was a big shock, with people knowing my tracks. I didn't expect it at all. The scene in Cali is so dope – really nice vibes.

— You’ve lived in China for years. How has it influenced your sound?

It's definitely opened my ears up. The UK has a very specific sound musically – it's where so many genres were born like grime, dubstep, drum'n'bass... the list goes on.

But being in China has definitely had me hearing new sounds on a daily basis through listening to different artists and watching gigs I wouldn't usually watch. As an artist, whatever surrounds you affects you, from the buildings we live in and walk past every day, to the people we meet. > Listen to Ma Fan at i.xiami.com/conrank

C A N VAS S E D

David Diao

H AO B U H AO

Chinese-American artist David Diao is the subject of a new retrospective at UCCA, his largest collection to date.

Bringing together a staggering 115 of his artworks from galleries around the world, the exhibition presents the many and varied changes that have unfolded throughout his career, from early abstract visions to the more

Hao

Bu Hao

In June, the original Star Wars trilogy was screened for the first time in China at the Shanghai Film Festival, having been banned at the time of release.

Now the force has awoken once more. Walt Disney and 20th Century Fox have secured a landmark deal with Tencent to make all six films available online in China for as little as RMB2.5 per view.

The long-awaited Chinese version of reality TV phenomenon, Big Brother, has gone into production – in India.

With a name roughly translating as Housemates, Let's Stay Together, the online-only series is being filmed at a location described by The Hollywood Reporter as “a former industrial factory outside Mumbai,” which is closer to the existing facilities of production company Endemol.

biographical leanings of his post-2000 works.

> RMB10 (free Thursdays); Tue-Sun, 10am-7pm, until November 15; Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA), 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 尤伦斯当代艺术中心朝阳区酒仙桥路4 号 798 艺术区 4 号路

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By No e l l e Ma t e e r PROPAGANDA,

KARAOKE AND… MONEY?

WE TALK REAL

NORTH KOREAN LIFE WITH THE GUYS WHO WOULD KNOW

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Famine, mass games and military parades – that’s the perception we all have of North Korea.

Unless you’re Simon Cockerell or James Pearson, of course. As manager of Koryo Tours, Cockerell has visited the DPRK 146 times (a number which should hit 147 shortly after we go to print, “I don’t know anybody who’s been more than me,” he says). And Pearson, a Reuters correspondent based in Seoul, is the author of North Korea Confidential, one of the most thorough and informative books on the country to date.

The two experts will be speaking at the Capital Literary Festival this month about the lives of everyday North Koreans, alongside Beijing-based photographer Matjaz Tancic, who produced a series of portraits from the nation last year.

Because international newscasts paint with broad strokes, everyday life in North Korea is infrequently discussed, and therefore all the more surprising. After all, few of us are able to zoom in closer than the military parades – which, by the way, don’t really happen.

“That’s the perception of how people get to work in the morning,” Cockerell jokes. “But they haven’t had one in two years.” (The last one was in July 2013.)

This is just one surprise Cockerell and Pearson have in store for curious North Korea watchers. The biggest, though? Money. When asked what’s changed in North Korean lives in the past decade, both men mention an influx of foreign goods for purchase and markets that are more robust. Or, as Cockerell puts it: “More stuff. And more people able to buy that stuff.”

That’s right. North Korea, like just almost any country, has a market economy, and an emerging middle-class enjoying its benefits.

According to Pearson: “There are two economies in North Korea: the ‘official’ economy, where the means of production are owned by the state and centralized, and then there’s the ‘real’ economy, where private trade and entrepreneurship dictate the price and availability of goods.”

FE AT URE | A R T S

For example, you might not think of North Koreans as being able to video chat on their smart phones. But an increasing number can, and do. The country develops its own smart phones, which connect to the national intranet, meaning users can access (North Korean) websites and apps.

Granted, the vast majority of North Koreans can’t afford this. Yet the number that can – 2.5 million – is too large to classify as an elite social class. “You can’t have an elite that’s 10 percent of the population,” argues Cockerell.

Buying power, however, is about more than smart phones. The products that are popular this year, according to Pearson, shed light on the bizarre set of circumstances in North Koreans’ lives – for example, cheap Chinese solar panels.

“People attach them to their apartment balconies,” he says. “They suck up enough power to charge a phone and power an LED light during the frequent blackouts.”

He also says that South Korean cosmetics are popular, but can’t be “openly sold as being from the South.”

A middle-class life in North Korea, after all, is different from a middle-class life anywhere else.

“They don’t have satellite TV, they don’t have private home ownership, they don’t have foreign holidays, they don’t have private schools,” says Cockerell. “They still have political education lessons every week, and they still have to go through the national curriculum, which is largely focused on learning about the revolutionary activities, W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 3 3

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Photographer Matjaz Tancic spent 10 days in North Korea producing 3D portraits of North Koreans he met (2D versions here because we couldn ’ t afford to print that many 3D glasses). “ My overall feeling in North Korea, ” he says, “ was like I was traveling back in time. ”

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“THERE’S MUCH MORE PLURALITY IN NORTH KOREA THAN PEOPLE EXPECT”

as they call them, of Kim Il-sung and Jong-il.”

Interestingly enough, Pearson adds, women play a huge role in the unofficial market economy. Because state-appointed jobs are largely given to men, their wives often invest the family’s money in the black market. This supplements typically small official incomes. (Most people, says Pearson, have another job to counteract meager official salaries.)

Cockerell, however, cautions against referring to these as black markets: “It’s more of a gray market because everybody knows it’s One of Bass Music’s Brightest Talents there.” hasbrutally a Softdifficult Spot for Chinese The life of someoneSlushies in the countryside, meanwhile, is a bit easier to sum up – there are no cell phones, for one.

Those in countryside villages live lives of tremendous hardship, excruciating manual labor and poverty. Cockerell points out that it’s practically the same life as developing-world farmers everywhere – just with more propaganda.

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The two also shed some light on something we often don’t consider from the outside: North Korean social lives.

“Karaoke and drinking tend to be the popular things to do. It’s quite a permissive society in terms of consuming alcohol,” says Cockerell.

“It’s quite conservative but still, it’s not the Islamic State – women can drink alcohol and tell jokes, the ruder the better, of course. Singing songs is big, too.”

“There’s actually a name for this eating, drinking, dancing combo: Eumjugamu, and it’s an important part of life in Korea, both North and South. It literally means ‘drinking, music and dancing’ and the three are usually inseparable,” says Pearson.

Ultimately, the two experts paint a warmer, more humane picture of North Korea – distinct from the usual government-focused rhetoric found on CNN. Alongside Tancic’s moving portraits, their Capital M talk has the potential to be something you might not expect from a talk on North Korea: uplifting.

“There’s much more plurality in North Korea than people expect,” says Cockerell, who, as a tour guide, has seen tourist after tourist realize this.

“Mostly they go with an intellectual idea that there are people in North Korea, but that’s different from having that confirmed viscerally by interaction,” he says. “So when they get a chance to chat with somebody, kick a football around or share a drink with some North Koreans, they realize there is more to these people’s lives than just studying the works of their leaders and thinking anti-American thoughts.”

Pearson elaborates: “There’s nothing better than sitting down and putting the world to rights over a drink or two with someone – especially if that someone is North Korean – to remind each other that we’re all human.” █

For more information on the Capital Literary Festival, turn to page 65.

FE AT URE | A R T S

MOTHER NATURE CALLS

Chengdu’s Proximity Butterfly Pay Tribute to Moms

by A n d re w C h i n

There a few topics less rock ‘n’ roll than one’s own mother. But then Chengdu fivepiece Proximity Butterfly are already doing a pretty good job of twisting the genre’s norms.

Not only has the band crafted a psychedelic sound that mixes ancient Chinese instruments with a brand of hard rock akin to Jane’s Addiction and Led Zeppelin, but new album Medusae tackles this most delicate of subject matters.

“This album is a personal story for me,” explains American frontman Joshua C. Love.

“I haven’t really seen my mother for a very long time and my relationship with her has been a shifting one. I know who my father is, but I’ve never really spent a lot of time with him, so my mother’s always been important.

“She had a rocky patch in her life that left a lot of distance between the two of us.

Medusae, in a sense, is a cry out to my mom – to let her know that I love her. While at the same time, [it’s] a call out to women in general to find the strength they need in their lives to redefine themselves as human beings in a history that tells them to be a certain way.”

With Love’s screaming vocals toned down, the band’s hypnotic tribute to the struggles of women marks a departure – both musically and thematically – from its predecessor. That’s little surprise given

that 2011’s Mars Volta-influenced Reprieve, a concept album inspired by the Sichuan earthquake, had been recorded during “a really rough time for the band with a lot of negative energy around.”

“There was a lot more peace for this album,” Love says. “I started to realize that I didn’t have to be so harsh or negative. If I changed my tone or looked at the world a little differently, the product of that would also be different. Medusae is the first phase of looking at hope, not as a distant thing but as something you create and actively engage.

“It’s funny. I posted the album on Facebook and a lot of women from high school and college have really nice things to say about the songs. There’s a concerned care about the gravity of the lyrics, which have made me appreciate the relationship I have with these people.”

Songs from the new disc, released by respected indie label Maybe Mars, are likely to feature heavily throughout Proximity Butterfly’s China tour. But, as Love explains, the quintet are already looking to the future.

“We’ve been playing these songs, which are inspiring new songs. So we’re already creating a whole new album. We have close to 12 songs that are kind of a response to Medusae and have been adding a few [of them] to the show.”

Stopping off at Yugong Yishan on October

9, the national tour is the band’s first since celebrating their 10th anniversary.

Formed as a trio in Chengdu in 2003, the multicultural group (currently comprising one Chinese member alongside one Czech and three North Americans) are a rare example of a band with both local and foreign members that are actually good enough to get signed.

“The very first part of the band was established in a very accidental way,” Love recalls. “We weren’t really looking to make music initially, but to find something that was based in deep expressions. The music became a system of telling stories.”

Proximity Butterfly’s rise mirrors that of Chengdu, which has recently produced a number of well-received debuts from young acts like Hiperson and Stolen. The band are now one of the most established forces in the city’s burgeoning scene.

“There’s no aggressiveness between bands,” Love says. “People are generally friendly with each other and trying to contribute to the scene. That’s an important element to creating music. Everyone is trying to get more involved because it’s just meaningful.” █ Oct 9, 9pm; RMB60 (presale), RMB80 (on the door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

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A R T S | FE AT URE

FOUND IN TRANSLATION

The Bookworm Launches Publishing House to Shine a Spotlight on Emerging Chinese Writers

by D o m i n i q u e Wo n g

IT SEEMS ONLY NATURAL THAT A COFFEE-SHOP CALLED

the Bookworm should publish its own line of books. Founded in early 2015, the China Bookworm Press is the next stage in the development of the lending library, turned literary hub.

The Bookworm Press, created with an aim of publishing leading contemporary fiction and non-fiction from China (in both the original Chinese and to a wider international audience in translation), joins a growing raft of book salons, author talks and literary festivals appearing across the capital.

Though perhaps better known today for staging its popular annual Literary Festival, the independently owned Bookworm is hoping to raise awareness of its publishing arm – and Chinese literature in general – through its inaugural China Bookworm Literary Award.

The award, which selects a previously unpublished novel by a 3 8 | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Mainland Chinese writer, was last month awarded to 34-year-old Guangzhou native Wang Zhezhu (top right) for her novel The Train That Came To Its End. The Bookworm’s panel of judges hailed the novel – about a doomed train and the passengers onboard – as “a small gem.”

Runners-up included Li Ziyue (bottom right) with I Am in the Red Chamber, You Are on the Journey to the West, “a biting satire” about the great social divide between rural and urban China, and Lin Weipan’s When a Cloud Meets a Sheet of Paper – a “refreshing and whimsical” tale about two boys in the countryside, with elements of magical realism and streams of consciousness.

As well as monetary prizes for the top three winners, publication in English awaits the first and second prize novels. Wang is “very happy” for the chance to have her writing translated for the first

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time. “I think this win will open another path [of] exchange and opportunities,” she tells us during an interview.

The addition of the Bookworm Press highlights the Beijing literary scene’s growth and burgeoning importance, suggests Peter Goff, managing director of the China Bookworm Press. Goff says that while the Press is relatively new and the benefits yet to be seen, its aim is to be a, “platform to introduce Chinese writers to the wider world.”

Nor is he focusing exclusively on Beijing. “At a recent Bookworm event in Chengdu, there were about 200 people in their 20s who [were] passionate about Chinese literature. The young generation [of readers] makes the developing scene a vibrant one.”

As well as heightened interest in Chinese literature within China, there’s also a gradual increase in interest from international publishers, according to Eric Abrahamsen, founder of Paper Republic, an organization that facilitates both literary and publishing connections between China and the world. He was also a judge on the Bookworm Award panel. One of Paper Republic's projects is Pathlight magazine, which features English translations of contemporary Chinese fiction and poetry.

Abrahamsen believes China’s increased attention to literature is, “probably attributable to a gradual increase in the number of direct connections between Chinese writers and publishers, and their international counterparts.” He gives examples of international literary festivals and residencies, which provide the chance for authors to be “discovered” by editors and journalists.

Despite this sizeable appetite for literature, there are still many challenges facing young Chinese writers hoping to have their works published or translated, as Goff explains: “It’s an incredibly competitive market, and not every work is readily translatable due to it being too local or its style of writing too difficult.”

www.pageonegroup.com weibo.com/pageonechina site.douban.com/pageone

Abrahamsen agrees, stressing that many younger Chinese writers are “still struggling with the question of whether they should be ‘topical’ and write to fit with perceived trends, or whether they should just say ‘to hell with it’ and write what they want to, without thinking too much about how it will be received.”

It’s a difficult position with no easy way out – play it safe and take the money, or opt for creative freedom (of sorts) that may, on the contrary, prove inhibiting? Chinese writer Murong Xuecun chose to stop altogether. He’d sold two million copies of his eight books and garnered more than eight million social media followers. But he quit publishing last year after frustrations with censorship.

For writers, it ultimately comes down to a willingness to take the risk. “There’s actually an interesting parallel with China’s economic reforms. In the 90s, as the state-owned danwei [work units] were slowly dismantled, everyone was terrified of trading in the safety of their government-backed jobs for the uncertainty of the private sector. The metaphor was xiahai, or ‘leaping into the sea,’” explains Abrahamsen.

Time will tell whether emerging Chinese writers choose to toe the line or jump over it. But as long as initiatives that focus on translating works like the China Bookworm Press and Pathlight exist, Chinese writers will continue to have the opportunity to have their voices – in whatever form that may take – heard. And for readers, this can only be a good thing.

The English translation of Wang Zhezhu’s novel The Train That Came To Its End and Li Ziyue’s I Am in The Red Chamber, You Are on the Journey to the West, will be published in March 2016 via China Bookworm Press. █

Interviews with the winners are available online at www.thatsmags.com

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Cover S tory

SUBURBIA RISING How the Semi-Rural District of Tongzhou Could Define Beijing’s Future Stephen George and Oscar Holland / -Holly Li -Dominique Wong, Noelle Mateer And Xu Jia

BY

IMAGES BY

ADDITIONAL RESEARCH BY

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A B OV E

A digital rendering of the proposed CBD devlopment at the heart of the new Tongzhou RIGHT

Salespeople talk with prospective investors at the showroom of Poly Metropolitan, the first project to secure land in the new CBD

with a swoosh of his finger , a young salesperson initiates the demo on the showroom’s 42-inch touchscreen monitor. In front of him, shimmering towers of steel and glass magically rise, forming large clusters around a radiant blue marina. Upbeat electronic music pulsates overhead, while a nearby projector beams looped images of an attractive mixed-race woman striding purposefully through a utopian cityscape. Welcome to the “World of Future Beijing.”

The boldly titled showroom marks the centerpiece of a multi-billion dollar development that will see the district of Tongzhou transformed into Beijing’s subsidiary center.

Located some 18 kilometers east of the city’s downtown area, the development presents a compelling vision of the future that, if realized, would forever alter the dynamic of the capital.

In an adjacent room, a large mock-up of the planned new development shows scale models of four apartment buildings, two office blocks, a 12,000sqm shopping mall and a publicly-owned 300-meter tower, all connected to Beijing by both a new express subway line and an underground road tunnel. The apartment buildings, explains the salesperson, will be completed by the second half of 2017. Prices begin at RMB33,000/sqm. The whole area is expected to be finished by 2025.

Outside the display area, the reality of today’s Tongzhou feels a long way from the extravagant promise of its sales brochures. The canals leading toward the new CBD (which will supposedly become a Monaco-esque destination for leisure boating) are currently lined with rundown warehouses and unkempt shrubs. In some places, the water has come to a complete standstill, leaving it murky and stagnant at the banks. Travel further east and the low-rises give way to small plots of land nestled

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between urban villages – remnants of the agriculture that once drove the local economy.

Yet semi-rural Tongzhou is central to a government strategy aimed at completely overhauling how the capital operates. It is hoped that Beijing’s pollution, traffic and overcrowding can all be alleviated by pushing many of the city’s key functions, along with a sizable chunk of its population, into its outer districts. Billed as a potential sub-center for Beijing since 2012, Tongzhou is now undergoing more rapid development as the integration of Beijing, Tianjin and Hebei (known as ‘Jing-Jin-Ji’) becomes a political priority.

As well as proposals to move Beijing’s municipal government to the area, public hospitals, universities and state-owned enterprises are all expected to relocate.

Planners hope that as many as one million people will move to the district by the end of the decade, drawn in by new houses and jobs.

In a recent report published in the state-owned People’s Daily, Huang Yan, director of the Beijing Municipal Commission of Urban Planning, argued that Tongzhou’s location makes it ideal as Beijing’s second

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A B O V E Rao Hongping, 58, at the site of her former home, after her village was demolished to make way for a new development. Like everyone else in her village, Rao was given a new apartment as compensation B E L O W Laborers strip houses of valuable materials in Lucheng Town, the proposed new site of Beijing’s municipal government

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When I first moved here it was very rural and undeveloped‌ The idea that someone would one day want to build a skyscraper in Tongzhou would have seemed totally unreal 45

center, citing the success of cities such as Paris and Tokyo in developing subsidiary hubs.

It’s a view shared by many. Vito Zhang, architect and founding partner of Pop-Up Creative, which has advised on planning for a 220,000sqm development near the center of Tongzhou, sees the project as an inevitable extension of Beijing’s growth.

“There’s a straight line between Tiananmen and Tongzhou, so it’s easy for traffic to travel from place to place,” he explains. “Plus, it’s in the middle of JingJin-Ji, so its location will become ever more important.

“I think people from Beijing will move there because of the housing prices. Also, if [commercial] rents are cheaper and there’s more business going on there, people will follow.”

With a government drive to decrease the population of Beijing’s six central districts by 15 percent, outer city areas are being primed to receive the migration. Tongzhou has already experienced a surge in recent years.

The district’s population jumped by over 75 percent between 2000 and 2010, with over 1.3 million now estimated to be living here –

even before the arrival of the additional million expected by 2020.

If Tongzhou is to help relieve the many pressures facing the capital, it will need significant investment to attract – and cater for – this anticipated influx. The local government has agreed to fund 86 key projects in the area, at a cost of over RMB160 billion.

Across the water from the site of ‘World of Future Beijing,’ work has already begun on one of them: the new CBD’s flagship building, Rainbow Gate.

Comprising two huge interlocking arches, the 316-meter-high skyscraper has quickly become a symbol of the new Tongzhou.

Digital renderings of the building – complete with sparkling glass facades and luxury yachts in the waters below – can be found on walls and construction boards across the district.

Designed by Gensler – the American architects behind China’s tallest building, the Shanghai Tower – the RMB15 billion structure will house a familiar collection of retail, hotel, residential and commercial space.

Whether it classifies as the type of ‘weird architecture’ recently criticized by Chinese President Xi Jinping is up for debate, though

ABOVE

Newly built tower blocks loom over what remains of Hugezhuang, one of 17 Tongzhou villages set for demolition

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the gate-like design is said to represent the district’s position as the eastern entrance to Beijing.

The name ‘Tongzhou’ broadly translates as ‘the place for passing through,’ thanks to its position as the southeastern approach to the capital via land and water. Yet in a reversal of history, it is now hoped that the district can lure business away from Beijing.

Indeed, the city’s entire urban blueprint now hinges on its ability to do so – and the process is well underway.

With the backing of a number of stateowned enterprises, the mixed-use development Poly Metropolitan was the first to win land rights in the new CBD, securing four of the 22 available plots. At its showroom, potential investors stroll around model offices and apartments accompanied by sales staff. Although the exact prices have yet to be determined (or revealed, at least), we are told that office space will sell at around RMB45,000/sqm. This is approximately 30 percent less than the average price of socalled ‘Grade A’ office space in downtown Beijing.

“Demand has exceeded all expectation,” says a salesperson while guiding us through a curious assortment of contemporary Chinese art affixed to the showroom’s

Take Chelsea in New York. First the artists arrived, they gentrified the area, and that led to galleries moving in – like in Songzhuang today. And then came the cafes, and then the businesses and expensive stores. And finally, the artists were driven out entrance hall. “We are expecting the entire development to sell within a few months of it entering the market. The government is investing a lot in this project and that helps to build confidence among investors.”

The interior of the building’s showroom appears designed to express a degree of affluence and sophistication. Prospective buyers are greeted at the door with offers of cocktails and coffee. Elsewhere, images of orchestral concerts, art galleries and country parks dot display stands. Standing in front of a large wall-mounted electronic map, a salesperson uses a laser pointer to direct our gaze towards proposed cultural developments, including a new boating club.

“Tongzhou will be unrecognizable in just a few years,” she explains. “It will be among the most attractive places to live in China.”

It’s an ambitious sales pitch, especially given Tongzhou’s current dearth of cultural and recreational offerings. Moreover, research into the quality of public services by the think tank, Beijing Academy of Social Sciences, rated the area last among the capital’s 11 districts.

City planners will be all too aware of what happens when urban developments cannot attract the requisite public interest. China is home to numerous failed attempts to

re-engineer the focus of large cities. In nearby Tianjin, for instance, an alternative business district styled on Manhattan remains largely unfinished and vacant, five years after the first building was completed.

But there are also many signs of what Tongzhou can offer as an alternative commercial and residential hub. House prices are significantly cheaper than in central Beijing, yet the district appears up-market in comparison to many other outlying areas.

Around Tongzhou Beiyuan station (which already connects the district to Beijing’s CBD on subway Line 1), smart new apartment blocks and high-end supermarkets hint at the relative prosperity here. At a governmentsubsidized parking lot next to the station, hundreds of white-collar workers drop off expensive cars before completing their journeys on public transport.

Long viewed by those in Beijing as a satellite appendage, Tongzhou’s current role as a commuter town is clear to all. Despite a small but growing economy based on manufacturing and hi-tech industries, an estimated 300,000 people – approximately one in four of the district’s residents – travel into the Beijing city center to work every day.

At 8am on a weekday morning, scores of commuters zig-zag through metal cordons as 47

they await entry into Beiyuan subway station.

Most are under 40 and fashionably dressed.

One such person is 31-year-old Li, who moved to the area three months ago. He thinks facilities will improve, though he’s worried that prices will continue to rise relative to his income. “I like it here, but if the rent goes up, I will have to move further away,” he explains.

Unsurprisingly, homeowners like 34-yearold Hao Lizhi have a less ambiguous view.

“I can see a lot of advantages that these changes could bring: transportation, supermarkets, shopping malls, education,” he explains. “Housing prices will go up as well, which I’m happy about.”

In creating more local jobs and better facilities, the plan is not only to encourage people to relocate to Tongzhou, but to reduce the need for people to travel to Beijing at all.

Authorities are leading by example, and at the heart of Tongzhou’s future is a proposal to move the city’s municipal government to the district.

Relocating Beijing’s administration out of the city center – leaving only national-level government bodies within the Fourth Ring Road – has been under discussion for several years. But the acceleration of the Jing-JinJi project, especially in the last 12 months,

looks to have made it an imminent reality.

Although details of the move had not been officially announced at the time of writing, reports in state media have pointed decisively toward the proposal in recent months. In addition to government buildings and functions, tens of thousands of civil servants are expected to relocate as a result. This may only represent a fraction of the total number expected to move to Tongzhou, but their presence is likely to radically transform the economy and character of the district.

The chosen site for the municipal government is widely believed to be Lucheng Town, around six kilometers east of Tongzhou’s new CBD. One of the ten towns making up the district, Lucheng is a cluster of 54 villages, largely consisting of high-density singlestory houses, not unlike Beijing’s traditional hutongs. Traveling there, east from the Sixth Ring Road, it becomes clear that demolition has already begun.

Seventeen villages in the area are set to be knocked down. In one, Hugezhuang, we find buildings completely reduced to rubble, while others have only been partially demolished. Posters remain affixed in three-walled rooms, while abandoned furniture, decorations and other household items are the only remaining vestiges of the lives that once played out here.

Dozens of laborers have been brought in by the site’s developers to strip anything of value from the village. Concrete may be largely worthless, but there are still plenty of building materials that can be resold.

The work is entirely manual, with no sign of bulldozers or mechanized demolition equipment. Instead, workers use sledgehammers and other simple hand tools to salvage what they can from the wreckage, loading wooden beams onto trucks and piling bricks onto the backs of motorized carts. The laborers – many of whom are from other outlying Beijing districts – say it will take two months for the whole site to be razed.

Amid the rubble, 58-year-old former resident Rao Hongping has returned to where her home once stood. A fruit tree in what had been her yard is all that remains intact.

Although admitting to being lured back by a sense of nostalgia, the retired hotel worker says that she’s more than happy with the compensation provided. Rao has been given a new apartment, as has each member of her family – her son, father, niece and brother – with whom she had previously shared a house.

“Each of us will get a 50-square-meter brand new modern apartment,” she explains.

A B O V E Conceptual artist Xu Xiaguo sits in his studio in Songzhuang. The artist arrived in the village in 2010 after his previous studio, close to the 798 Art District, was demolished R I G H T Long time Tongzhou resident Li Yang (pictured alone and with friends) plays guitar in a local punk band. He is moving to the fringes of the district to escape rent increases brought about by new developments in the downtown area

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“Currently, my father is living with me while we wait for them to be completed.”

We find another former resident (who only gives the name Mr. Sun and his age as “over 60”) returning to his erstwhile home.

He relocated less than three weeks before the work began here. “I’m very happy about the move,” he says. “My old house was so dilapidated!” We walk with him through the rubble briefly, as he explains that despite the changes taking place the neighborhood will always be his home. “I’ve walked these paths every day, so why stop now?”

Neither villagers nor workers seem sure about what will be built on the site. What is certain is that there will be profound changes in this part of Tongzhou too. The large grain silos at the entrance to Hugezhuang village may serve as reminder of a not-sodistant rural past, but the area’s future is distinctly urban. The eastern extension of the subway’s Line 6, completed in December 2014, now serves Lucheng, while Renmin University has also confirmed plans for a new campus nearby.

Development may come at a price. In the month following reports of the municipal government’s move, house prices in the area jumped by as much as RMB5,000/sqm.

While this is welcome news for homeowners – especially those like Rao and Sun – rising rents will begin pushing low-income residents further out of the city. The spending power of civil servants and other new arrivals is also likely to be significantly higher than many of the district’s current inhabitants.

As a result, not everyone in Tongzhou shares the enthusiasm of those fortunate enough to be given new apartments. Li Yang is the lead singer in punk rock band Demerit.

Along with his bandmates, the heavily tattooed 32-year-old has lived in Tongzhou since the summer of 2003. “I moved out here to escape the pressures of Beijing life,” Li tells us over tea. “But now those pressures are catching up with me.”

Li is part of an estimated 6,000 young creatives who currently call the district home. Like Li, many of them moved to Tongzhou due its cheap rents and relative personal freedom. The community, thought to be the largest of its kind in China, is centered around the art village of Songzhuang in the north of the district. But changes are afoot.

Whereas Li paid just RMB350 a month for a two-bed apartment 12 years ago, rents today typically begin at RMB2,000. As a result, Li is moving again – further north and away from Tongzhou’s main artistic hub – into a

more rural area on the fringes of the district.

“I’m a pioneer,” laughs Li. “Pretty soon a lot of people will start to move out here. The cost of living is cheaper and the vibe is more relaxed. There’s no construction – or worries that you may have to move out of your home to make way for a new development.”

As the former owner of the alternative live music bar, Dirty Monster Club (DMC] in downtown Tongzhou, Li is more than familiar with the threat of demolition. Despite being one of the district’s most popular and well-known destinations, DMC was bulldozed earlier this year to make way for a new business development. “It was frustrating, but I knew it was coming,” he says matter-of-factly. “Tongzhou has changed and there’s no going back.”

Li has been witness to the area’s recent transformation up close. He views its latest phase of development with a mix of trepidation and absurdist humor.

“When I first moved to Tongzhou it was very rural and undeveloped. But it wasn’t like other parts of the countryside, in a conventional, traditional sense.

There were farmers, sure. But most people were drifters. The idea that someone would one day want to build a skyscraper in Tongzhou would have seemed totally unreal.”

Outside of Li’s new home, chickens run freely and plump apples hang from the trees.

It is a world far removed from the glistening towers of steel and glass depicted in the showrooms of the new CBD. “We used to call Tongzhou a sleeping beauty town,” says Li. “But now, with all these new developments, it might become a zombie town, full of dead-behindthe-eyes white-collar workers.”

The fear of Tongzhou being overrun by outsiders is a recurrent theme among Tongzhou’s artistic community. In the nearby Songzhuang Artist Village we 49

meet with 38-year-old conceptual painter Xu Xiaguo. Among the village’s more successful artists, Xu – whose work was recently exhibited in Los Angeles – rents a large open-plan studio space in a relatively new and chic cluster of Songzhuang.

“These new developments will offer a lot of convenience, such as new transport links to the city, for example. But there is a danger too,” explains Xu. “Take Chelsea in New York. First the artists arrived, they gentrified the area, and that led to galleries moving in – like in Songzhuang today. And then came the cafes, and then the businesses and expensive stores. And finally, the artists were driven out.”

Xu is talking from experience. A former resident of Beijing’s most famous art district, 798, Xu was forced to leave in 2010 after his studio was sold to developers to make way for luxury apartments.

It’s a process Xu sees as inevitable. “Tongzhou needs development. That much is obvious. Things are already beginning to change – and will continue to change. The question is at what speed?”

In many ways, the story of Songzhuang reflects that of Tongzhou as a whole.

Once a traditional farming village, Songzhuang saw its first wave of artists arrive in early 1996. The following year, the Beijing local government upgraded Tongzhou from a municipal county to a city district. Over the course of the next decade, artists continued to arrive in large numbers, but it wasn’t until 2006 that the Tongzhou local government showed an interest in the community. Believing that art could have a positive impact on the local economy, officials began

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to encourage construction of new developments and housing. This in turn helped raise the profile of Tongzhou – and in 2008, the Beijing local government officially labeled Songzhuang an ‘artist village.’

Today, the artist village is included as part of the Tongzhou CBD sales pitch for prospective investors looking to boost their company’s cultural capital. But can the two seemingly contradictory developments continue to coexist into the future, or will local government support for art eventually dry up as investment opportunities grow?

Though he is broadly supportive of the district’s new development, Xu voices concerns over the effect it might have on future generations of young artists. “I’m in a fortunate position where I think I could cope. But what happens to the artist community next if rents begin to rise – especially those younger artists looking for their first break?

Artists need to live and work together.”

Xu, like many of the residents we speak with in Songzhuang, talks enthusiastically about the community-minded aspects of the village and in particular its capacity for self-reliance. The necessity to exist beyond the parameters of regular urban life has resulted in a number of inventive everyday solutions.

“We run our own cooperatives. It’s very convenient to pool resources and buy equipment and supplies,” explains Xu. “If someone needs help building or constructing something, there’s usually someone who can help. And because food security has been quite an issue recently in China, many people here rent patches of land and grow and sell their own food. We very seldom have to leave. It’s really very utopian.”

I moved out here to escape the pressures of Beijing life. But now those pressures are catching up with me Songzhuang’s establishment of a small creative community disconnected from the wider economy is in marked contrast to the future Tongzhou – with its high-speed rail links and Beijing-focused enterprises – as outlined by developers.

Clearly, the future of Tongzhou is unlikely to be decided by those living in Songzhuang. But their presence could yet affect its final outcome. If the district is to grow and prosper in line with the government’s plan, places such as Songzhuang will become a vital means of sustaining its vibrancy and drawing new residents away from the capital.

Looking at current developments, it is apparent that Tongzhou today is less a place and more an ideal. Whether that ideal can be fully realized in parallel with the wants and needs of its current and future inhabitants remains uncertain.

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GRAPEVINE NIBBLES This column tends to veer towards the obscene. We’ve written about balls (The Meatball Company), and we’ve covered penis-shaped foods at length – I’d recommend checking out our magnum opus of food writing, August 2015’s “Phallic Clam Penetrates China Market.”

If you don’t have a copy on hand, there’s a picture of me with a corn cob in my mouth on page 61. But enough is enough.

This food and drink editor is a feminist who laments society’s Freudian fixation on the male form. So this month, I had one question: Where my vagina foods at?! Answer: Bagels.

Bagels are the perfect vagina food. They aren’t hard, but soft. They are (for me in the mornings at least) the source of life. And they are now increasingly available across Beijing. Last month, former Tavalin Bagels pros opened a delivery service, 9cmBagel, on WeChat @beiguoke9cmbagel.

(Yes, that means Tavalin Bagels’ second location has shut. I blame the patriarchy.) And Traitor Zhou’s, home of the delightfully chewy Nori Bagel, has opened an outpost at Migas.

Before this column becomes The Bagel Monologues, however, there’s a host of other less exciting dining news of the expensive, Western variety: Brian McKenna is back with high-end gastropub Molly Malone’s; Velvet, Tavola and Sureno all have new chefs; Flamme Sanlitun has closed.

For info on places you should care about, check Mifan/Mafan.

It’s a man’s world, but times are changing. Next… donuts?

O F F T H E B E AT E N P L AT E

We love sushi. We love burritos. But do we love sushi burritos? That is another question entirely. Last month, gamer-lounge-turned-bar 8-Bit launched its food menu, which features not one, not two, but three varieties of sushi burritos. Here’s the gist: it looks like a burrito, tastes like sushi. While it’s big enough to grasp in your hand, the innards are Cali-style sushi ingredients. Ours (named Ninja Garden, RMB38) was stuffed with spicy eggplant, mushrooms, carrot slivers, kale, avocado and Sriracha sauce – a big fat wrap of nicely paired veggies, surrounded by rice and at a killer price. We suggest holding your sushi burrito in one hand and your gaming controller in the other.

> Available at 8-Bit; Tue-Sat 5pm-late, Sun 3pm-late; 13

Beilouguxiang, Dongcheng 北锣鼓巷 13 号 (134 8878 3848)

H E A D -TO - H E A D / MOONCAKES

Bye, Flamme :(

VER SUS Coffee Mooncake

Green Tea Mooncake

咖啡榛果月饼 Available at BHG Marketplace, RMB7.5

抹茶蜜豆月饼 Available at BHG Marketplace, RMB7.5

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The design is cool. Other than that, we have a confession to make: We bought this because we thought it would be chocolate, and…

Beautiful, if unnaturally bright, coloring – BHG hasn’t had any food-safety scandals lately, has it?

INITIAL TASTE

It’s not chocolate. It’s coffee, we think.

At least it’s something that’s trying to be coffee.

Ah, artificial green tea flavoring: that oh-sopopular combination of sugar and… leaves. (I guess we forgot we hate green tea flavoring.)

SECOND BITE

Valiant attempt, BHG Marketplace – but what coffee did you use to make your flavoring? Because this is an awfully bitter ‘cake’ we have here.

We’ll take a second bite for the magazine if we must, but do we have to? We prefer our green tea hot and drinkable, not rubbery or chewy.

VERDICT

Do we have an anti-green tea flavoring bias? Yes. But mooncakes are for gift-giving (as evidenced by all the shopkeepers hawking RMB250 tins of them), which means they’re all about the looks. It’s almost unfair to expect them to taste good, and on that note, our green tea mooncake is the winner.

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b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

T H E Y SA I D I T, W E R E A D I T

BA RT I SA N S

Q Mex Bar & Grill

This month, Uni, the skateboarder-filmmaker behind the bar at Sanlitun’s newest wine lounge, Yolanda’s

Ever wondered what kids these days think of some of Beijing's long-standing foodand-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we've handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: mega Mexican sports bar Q Mex Bar & Grill – a Sanlitun fiesta, or a tequiled-out mess?

It was my first time eating Mexican cuisine. First impression: big. Second impression: spicy. Third impression: tastes good.

I’m not a foodie, but I’ve eaten in a lot of places and the food here is not nice!

The mojito tastes like water.

The caramel pudding was definitely the best food I’ve ever had, plus it was free.

N E WS B I T E S

Fizzling Out

Beijing’s a brewers’ city – you knew that. But the Wall Street Journal recently put out a sobering report on the state of beer nationwide: While China accounts for a quarter of the world’s beer volumes, it only accounts for the a tenth of global beer revenues. That’s because there are so many mega-brewers pumping out beers in China that profit margins have become increasingly small.

Now we’re not talking microbreweries here – we’re talking the big names (looking at you, Tsingtao) which are struggling to make big profits. According to Deustche Bank, this means China’s overall beer profits are just 3 percent of global beer profits.

That’s less than many expected, but that isn’t to say it’s a small number. Last year, China’s beer industry was worth RMB486 billion, a number that’s been climbing over the years, and a Euromonitor report says it’s likely to hit RMB683 billion by 2019. Cheers to that, at least.

Never judge a book by its cover. Yolanda’s Secret Wine Bar and Food may have a strange, confusing name, but the interior exudes nothing but comfort – and pours nothing but generous amounts of good-value wines.

Glasses of house pours are RMB100 for four, which you can split among your friends, or just have all to yourself. Yolanda’s manager Uni (Yolanda’s in New York City selling jianbing from a food truck, we kid you not) facilitated our boozing and proved himself to be Beijing’s chillest barman. Ultimately, we went to ask him a question: What is Yolanda’s secret? Turns out it’s wine.

—What is Yolanda’s Secret?

Yep, it’s our wine – we sell it by the bottle here (RMB190).

It smells super good, and it’s strong. The smell is really fruity, but the taste is very dry. It’s from Xinjiang.

—Why Xinjiang grapes?

Xinjiang’s fruit is better than anywhere else in China, and especially better than here.

—Where else in China makes wine?

Shandong makes some wine, and also Beijing has some chateaux owned by foreigners. There’s one near my hometown actually, and my parents told me the price is over RMB1,000 for a 5-year-old wine, I don’t know why.

That’s too high.

—What do customers think of it?

It’s a very heavy bottle. Everybody who holds this is like “whoa.” But then people see the logo and say, “Oh you have your own wine?” and then we can tell the story. NM

> Yolanda's Secret; Tue-Fri noon-midnight, Sat-Sun noon-late;

1-101, 38 Sanlitun Nan Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南 38 号楼 1-101 (131 4653 0019)

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E AT & DRINK | T HE SPRE A D

McDonald’s gray sesame ice cream may have vanished from stores, but that’s OK – our mood is getting darker, and the blackcolored food trend is here to stay. Some say it’s healthier; some just like how it looks.

Whichever boat you’re in, here are our favorites from around Beijing.

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Squid ink paella, RMB328 per two people Niajo

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Black calzone, RMB98 Bottega

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Black baci, RMB99 for 6 Bottega 4

Macarons, RMB10 each Okra 5

Nori bagel, RMB40 with toppings Traitor Zhou’s 6

Taiwan sesame mochi, RMB19 Ole supermarkets

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E AT & DRINK | BA RS

HISTORY IN THE BREWING DK1308 Keeping the Munich Tradition Alive wo rd s by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

Markus Lordt’s deerskin leather shorts are older than he is. In fact, given that they’ve been around for over 100 years, they’re older than almost everything else in Gongti.

“They came from my grandfather, to my father, and then to me,” explains Drei Kronen 1308’s general manager over a gigantic stein of his brewer’s Oktoberfest beer. “When my son is born, I’ll give them to him. These are the traditions of Munich.”

Few, if any, places in China carry on these traditions quite like DK1308. Staff members dressed in dirndl dresses and lederhosen (all of which are significantly newer than Lordt’s shorts) carry steins of German beer between tables. Pretzel stands and plates of wurst pile up atop the blue and white checkers of Bavaria.

“We teach our staff how to wear the clothes in the right way. But it’s the tradition of the beer that’s more important,” Lordt explains. “We brew according to the German purity law of 1516 and there are no chemicals – none. Of course, we use chemicals to clean the tanks and the pipes, 5 6 | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

but that’s it. The rest is just water, hops, malt and yeast.”

In a city that is becoming saturated with small-batch brews and Sichuan pepper infusions, there’s something refreshing about DK1308’s straightforward approach.

Using ingredients imported from Germany, the brauhaus only has three beers permanently on tap – a lager, a dark beer and an aromatic wheat beer, the most consistent best-seller.

“Anything with fruit flavors or added ingredients that taste like cherries or bananas – even if they’re made without chemicals… Let’s just say that when I drink this kind of beer, the next day I feel very, very bad,” says Lordt, who has been in China for over a decade. “I’m a purist. Give me a German beer and I’m a happy guy.

“Those craft beer guys in Beijing, Shanghai and other places – they do a great job. I know some of them and they’re great guys, but they’re not competitors to us. What we do is really different.”

Nonetheless, the Munich-born Lordt is

keen for the city’s craft beer enthusiasts to pay him a visit. In fact, as well as making DK1308’s three classics, brewmaster Andreas Roehrl (whose family developed the recipes over 300 years ago) also produces four seasonal specials throughout the year – and next up is a Bavarian Red Ale. While staying within the bounds of that all-important German purity law, Lordt is confident that the result will be something quite different from the American-style IPAs found elsewhere in the city.

“We’ll use special hops from Germany, and it will be ready around the 15th to 18th of October,” he reveals. “This will be a totally different ale to those made by the other brewers. The colors come from natural products – we don’t need other things to make it fruity. I hope a lot of American and English guys come down to try it!”

Daily 11am-2pm; Drei Kronen 1308, 1/F, Bldg 5, China

View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红 街 5 号楼 1 层 (6503 5555)

TRB BITES INFUSION ROOM The Infusion Room’s keypad-lock-andno-sign combo either ensures that IR is the coolest bar IRL, or that its customers have to flail their arms at the window to get someone to let them in. We fell into the latter camp, but once inside, no matter – the osmanthus-infused Aged Negroni (get it? Infusion Room) is one of the city’s few RMB100 cocktails that’s genuinely worth the price. > Sun-Thu 8pm-2am, Fri-Sat 8pm-3am; Just above D Lounge, Gongti Beilu, Courtyard 4, Chaoyang 朝阳 区工体北路 4 号机电院内滚石西门对面 (6415 9837)

江 湖 味 道 ( R I V E R S A N D L A K ES F L AVO R ) Could this be the world’s first industrial-chic Xinjiang restaurant? Exposed brick, metal fittings and Uighur graffiti make an unusual – though completely welcome – backdrop to some chuan’r munching. The menu features all the classics, excellently made but prepared with a little more spice than you might expect. > Daily, 11am-11pm; 26 Dongsi Bei Dajie,

Dongcheng 东城区东四北大街 (153 2138 2124)

TRB Bites is Temple Restaurant Beijing’s new casual concept, but if this is your idea of casual, then LOL. Apart from one wasabi rice krispie treat, elegantly presented, this place is as high-end as ever. That’s not a bad thing, of course. In true TRB fashion, we were tended to like delicate princesses, and surprised with plate after plate of bonus ‘bites,’ which ran the gamut from crispy chicken skins with jam to tiny dried shrimps.

Bites is still technically in soft opening, so that means they’re working out kinks , but we honestly can’t see any kinks to work out.

Set menus start at RMB158 for three courses – an unbelievable deal. > Mon-Fri, 5:30-10pm; 95 Donghuamen Dajie,

Dongcheng district 东城区东华门大街 95 号 (6401 6676)

is R ic e l e e h t f s i s ll You he Ha We Te Worth t

B U N GA LOW Bungalow’s back! The tiki bar’s first incarnation opened for just long enough this summer generate buzz, then get shut down.

But that’s OK, because its second location (currently in soft opening) is banging, and its drinks just as fruity and strong as we remember. Go quickly in case it gets shut down, but we’re guessing that the more alcohol-friendly environment that is Fangjia Hutong will be more accommodating.

FA N G BA R C RYS TA L JA D E

Jiaodaokou Bei Santiao, Dongcheng 东城区交道口三

Maybe you know this Singaporean chain that does Hong Kong dim sum from Shanghai.

Sounds like a restaurant with schizophrenia, but Crystal Jade does good-value xiaolongbao and noodles in unpretentious, yet pleasing surrounds. If our office were closer to Indigo Mall, we’d be there more often.

条 34 号

1627)

> Opening hours TBA until official opening; 34

> Daily, 11am-10pm; L1-25, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 18 号颐堤港 L1-25 (6184

Fang Bar offers “serious cocktails for not so serious people” says owner Zak, and yeah, we just copy-and-pasted that description from his WeChat because that sums it up so well. Fang is surrounded by the budget bottle shops of its Fangjia Hutong neighbors, but has serious cocktail clout: the Journey to the West (RMB65) blends Xinjiang grapes, dark rum and sugar for a caramelly sweet, yet highly drinkable effect. > Sun-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; 61 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同 59 号

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E AT & DRINK | FE AT URE

FE AT URE | E AT & DRINK

I ATE DOG FOOD

They Said They Use People-Worthy Ingredients.

I Said “Challenge Accepted” wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e by Ho l l y L i

It is tradition in the magazine world to write articles using the royal ‘we.’ ‘We’ tried Okra’s new cocktails, I’d write, or ‘We’ had diarrhea at Paddy O’Shea’s. I’m usually cool with this, because it distracts from the fact that I often conduct reviews by hanging out at bars alone.

But in the case of That’s Beijing’s inaugural dog food review, I say fuck that rule. There is no ‘we’ in dog food reviews. I, and I alone, sacrificed my taste buds and better judgment to eat dog food for this magazine. No-one else in the office gets to take credit for this.

I'm mean, I'm OK with this. As food and drink editor, I hands down have the best job out of anyone I know, with bartenders and chefs throughout the city vying to impress me, competing for my sweet editorial gaze. OK, I’m not that important, but the point is: I am balls deep in people food. So when a friendly Canadian contacted our editorial team to talk about his line of dog meals, I was strangely receptive. I asked him to bring his dog and his dog food to our office for a shoot. His response was, “Oh, really?” followed pretty swiftly by just, “OK.” (Nothing fazes longtime expats.)

“We only use ingredients we’d be proud to serve our friends,” says Dan Christensen, about his company, Penny’s.

But if these dogs are eating people ingredients, then surely humans can eat these dog meals, too? I shot Dan a WeChat message. “Your dog food’s safe for me to eat, right?” and he responded, “We’ll see,” alongside a giggling emoji. No matter – the day of the shoot, I’d made 5 8 | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

up my mind: I was going to eat dog food with no hands or utensils, just like a dog, alongside a dog.

Said dog, Caesar, is a well-behaved giant. He even sat upright on a chair and ate from his plate on the table. Like a human! Which is convenient, you know, because I am a human, and I was not about to lick my food up from the floor.

When it was time to eat, Caesar devoured his food. Me, on the other hand… Well, I ate it. My verdict? Totally edible – which, given this is dog food, is better than expected. Penny’s dog food doesn’t come in pureed goop form, like other mass-produced dog foods. It comes in a vacuum-sealed package of ingredients, and you can recognize the individual ingredients within. That meant I could avoid the livers, even without chopsticks. So it was pretty much just chicken and veggies, plain, no seasonings.

Ceasar, meanwhile, declined to comment in response to my interview queries. This is possibly because dogs can’t talk. But I like to think it’s because he was too busy chowing down, and maybe – just maybe! – enjoying bonding time with his new friend, (dog-)food and drink editor Noelle Mateer.

For more information, or to purchase some for you and your dog, add Penny ’ s on WeChat @PennysStudio, or contact them at pennysfoodstudio@gmail.com

WHITE TIGER VILLAGE

White Tiger, not White Tablecloth wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Skewers and alcohol is a combination that has been charming Beijingren since the invention of skewers and alcohol, which, come to think of it, were probably some of the first things ever invented.

Really, meat + sticks + fire – it must have been a Neolithic Era invention. And that’s why Nathan, who’s the brains and knives behind new Beixinqiao chuan’r restaurant White Tiger Village, has a daunting task. It’s easy to be impressed by some, say, champagnereduction foie-gras superfood bullshit. It’s harder to impress someone with chaun’r.

And yet, White Tiger Village does just that. The lamb skewers are lightly seasoned and juicy without being oily. They’re savory, like any proper Dongbei food should be, but not drowning in salt. We like to think this is because the base ingredients used don’t require smothering, in line with Nathan’s simple, yet laudable philosophy: “I just make sure the produce is good.”

We were initially skeptical of a high-end reimagining of a street food – don’t make our comfort food less comfortable! – but at RMB6 a stick, White Tiger is hardly white tablecloth. Instead, we sit in an open kitchen, chatting with the cooks as they grill, chop and fry. Design aesthetics exude comfort over stiffness – lemon yellow accents, Plastered 8 wall art.

The menu, like everything else, is simple, yet well curated. There are only a couple dishes under each category: skewers, salad, stew, and then on the other side, alcohol. This, friends, is the icing on the cake. Jing-A beer is on tap (RMB40), and Nathan offers a select few varieties of French and Chilean wine, his personal favorites, at accessible prices (starting at RMB30 for a glass).

All in all, it’s high-quality dining, just for the people. And that’s pretty damn cool.

Daily, 6pm-midnight; 84 Xiang Er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区交道口香饵胡同 84 号 (5719 2684)

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IMAGE BY KUANKUAN

E AT & DRINK | C A FE

We’re reading Xing Fu Café’s employee manual. Weird, we know. We’re not employees. We’re not thinking about becoming employees. There are just some damn cute illustrations in this thing. We’re genuinely enjoying our perusal of the café employee manual.

That’s because Xing Fu Café is a little bit of happiness. Literally: that’s what xing fu translates to. We spoke with owner KuanKuan about what makes her happy (spoiler: it’s Xing Fu Café) and what makes the happiest café in Beijing thrive.

“Many people define happiness and life fulfillment by their financial success, finding a shuai and wealthy husband, wearing the latest fashion, or driving fancy cars,” KuanKuan says. “But me, I find contentment in things that seem small: a perfect foam heart on my latte, the font of my logo, a

XING FU CAFÉ

customer nestled in my café’s library with a book I selected.”

More succinctly, she says: “Small things, they make me happy.” And that includes illustrating the employee manual.

Attention to detail is just one of many small happinesses we find at Xing Fu Café, which serves coffee, tea and light bites on a bustling street between Dongzhimen and Dongsi Shitiao. It’s a busy part of town – high-rise office buildings line the bustling streets – but step into Xing Fu and your pace suddenly slows. Walls are painted a pleasing shade of turquoise, and the open floor plan is warmly lit. Long wooden communal tables are stripped-back and sleek. A cozy library to the side features a well curated selection of books in both Chinese and English. Thoughtful design extends even to the countertop, which was specially made by renowned Korean artist Kim Jintaek. In fact, art dots the walls of Xing Fu, thanks to a partnership with ArtMia, which displays the work of young artists Li Yong Geng, Qi Lei and Yao Peng.

All of this comes together to make an atmosphere that keeps the clamor of the outside world far at bay. The icing on the cake is Xing Fu’s, well, cake – a durian variety with that smoothly incorporates the strong taste of Malaysian durian into its soft, palatable flavor. Pair this with Xing Fu’s freshly roasted, meticulously brewed coffees – Brazilian Santos, Indonesian Sumatran Mandeling, Colombian varieties – and you’ve got yourself a stew going.

Stepping through the door from chaotic

From the Daily Grind to the… Daily Grind wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r

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Dongzhimen to a serene, aesthetic atmosphere reflects KuanKuan’s own recent life changes. After graduating from university the States, she landed a coveted finance job in Hong Kong. And while she relished the opportunity to work with her driven, high-achieving colleagues, she left because she decided the fast-paced finance life was not for her.

“While I enjoyed working with my excolleagues very much, I quickly realized that I am not a finance person,” she says. “I prefer the creative side of myself.”

That much is clear. KuanKuan hosts salons, educational talks, art exhibitions and sometimes even weddings in her café, which is slowly but surely morphing into a community space. But just because she’s left the high-paced finance world doesn’t mean her new job is easy – KuanKuan is in her shop every day communicating with staff, customers, cooks and coffee suppliers.

Fortunately, Xing Fu’s atmosphere – and drinks – are such that its makes hard work far more palatable. Just ask the creative types sipping on lattes while hammering away on their laptops, or the friends who meet in Xing Fu’s library for tutoring and study sessions.

Xing Fu Café is, after all, where you feel xing fu.

Daily, 8am-8:30pm; 1/F Tower A East Gate Plaza Dongzhimen 东直门东环广场 A 座一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096)

A DV ER T ORI A L | E AT & DRINK

8-BIT

Wind Down, Power Up wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

ON THE FARM WITH TRIBE What Does it Take to Farm Organically in Beijing?

Pig shit. You probably don’t think much about pig shit. But Mr. Liu? He thinks about it a lot.

Liu runs an organic farm in Shunyi, and he’s giving us a tour. After walking us past fields of organic vegetables, he points out his pigs, which are playing around in the mud.

This being a farm, we ask if they’re there for bacon. But they’re not.

“We don’t buy animal-made fertilizer because we can’t control how the animals are grown, so they might have chemicals in their bodies,” says Liu. “The only animal shit we can use is the stuff we get ourselves.”

That’s right – even the excrement is organic. Which leads us to why we’re here: we’re here at Liu’s farm to see just how much it takes to run an organic farm in Beijing. In short: a lot.

It’s a hot, sunny day at summer’s tail end.

Liu has been outside tending to his fruit and veg since the early morning. He walks us through his fields, stopping to point out each plant, occasionally grabbing a sprig or two for us to smell and, on occasion, eat. We taste spicy wasabi leaves straight from the vine, and sniff Liu’s homemade organic pesticides.

Turns out there are ways to keep insects off your plants that don’t require harmful chemicals.

But Liu’s guiding philosophy, we learn, is more than farming naturally. Liu has two children, and after years of hearing about food-safety scandals in China, he took matters into his own hands.

“I wanted my family to eat healthy,” he says. “I have two kids, and I was worried about what they eat.”

Today, Liu works with customers in central Beijing, where he still lives despite running the farm in Shunyi. He supplies to a growing number of Beijing restaurants, as well as TRIBE, where he also sells produce as part of the restaurant’s weekly farmers' market.

And despite growing demand for his product, Liu makes sure he gets to know the people behind every restaurant he supplies to – and that includes TRIBE. It’s timeconsuming, but it’s what makes him a truly community-minded farmer.

It all goes to show that Liu takes this shit seriously. Literally, we suppose. NM Try healthy organic dishes made with Liu’s produce at TRIBE, see Listings for details

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COMMUNITY

COMMUNI T Y | T IGER FAT HER

THAT'S ITALY A Hoilday Diary

by Tre v o r Ma r s h a l l s e a

Looking back, I wouldn’t change one single thing. I’d change lots of them Sometimes life imitates art and you feel like one of those movie dads – like Will Smith saving his family, and the world, from aliens, robots, squids and/or zombies.

Or you could be Clark Griswold from Vacation. We’ve just had a month in Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. And I’ve said it before: holiday planning is just about my most loathed chore. This time we had an itinerary where lots could’ve gone wrong but not quite everything did. I, after this holiday, need another one. Just reading this diary is exhausting.

Rome: A steep 60-euro cab fare from the airport. Luckily our driver is friendly, good with kids and, as an Italian male, fluent in the world language – football. After he leaves, I realize he’s also adept at fleecing the weary traveller of a 50-euro note, via the old “you just gave me two tens” switcheroo. D’oh!

As you do on holiday, we rise at 6am for an early Vatican tour to beat the crowds which, these days in Italy, are ridiculous.

Our hotel’s breakfast is provided by a cafe up the road. Alas, we’re up before they are.

At least we see the Sistine Chapel, a great place for art (and for “dad jokes” about the Seventeenth chapel).

Tuscany: Driving out of Rome I smugly connect our GPS, which I’d cleverly bought on the cheap in Beijing. The man said that although we couldn’t see Italian maps on it in Beijing, it would definitely work in Italy.

All we can see is a map of the Worker’s Stadium precinct. As we take a wrong turn off the autostrada and get lost, I resolve to return the GPS to its purveyor and see if it will work there, as a tool to bludgeon him to death. Losses are compounded by an email which reveals I forgot to cancel a tentatively booked Rome hotel, worth 850 euros. D’OH! I’ve scheduled a drive to Florence, via Pisa.

Turns out my family are in that rare breed of ‘leaning tower cynics.’ It takes ages to park (without a GPS), no one likes the 6 2 | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

tower, one kid has a meltdown, stops for a second for the obligatory “holding up the tower” photos, then resumes meltdown. At least we make good time to the outskirts of Florence. There, we hit a traffic jam and cover 5km in three hours. We check in, hot and bothered, at 7pm to find our hotel pool is open from noon till 6pm, and costs 7 euros each. We still use it the next day after buying special “queue-dodging” group tickets to see Michelangelo’s David, meaning we queue for only two hours.

Padua: We visit the birthplace of modern medicine, because my wife is a doctor. We see strange museums with things like iron lungs and two-headed babies. You have to admit something about these old Ital-

ian cities: they’re %@$#ing impossible to drive in without a GPS! We go buy one.

Trieste: To avoid a costly international drop-off fee, I cunningly arranged that we’d drop our car in Trieste, catch a bus to Pula, Croatia and pick up another one. Trieste is lovely. Its bus station, however, is ugly.

We know this because we’re there for two hours waiting for our delayed bus.

Pula: Not bad. They’ve got a Roman coliseum here that’s better preserved than the one in Rome, with an authentic-looking gladiator fight show at night. From there we decamp to Rovinj, where I’d booked some rest time at a beach resort. Turns out there’s about 400 villas and a huge campground next door. Spend two days trying not to touch people next to us on the beach.

Slovenia: Beautiful Lake Bled is the “find” of the holiday. Sod St Peter’s – a treetop adventure course we discover becomes the kids’ holiday highlight. As a man recites the safety precautions, I panic I’m not going to take any of it in, and therefore don’t take any of it in. I’m convinced I’m about to die, but don’t.

Back to Croatia: To Plitvice National Park, which isn’t bad, and then Split, which is.

I’d booked a week at a beach apartment to chill. Who knew you can get beaches in industrial zones!

Our bit of Split is shit. We’ve also noticed that, in Croatia, my Asian wife and I, as well as our Eurasian kids, have been getting lots of looks. I do more research. Croatia football fans made headlines for racist chants at two matches in the previous seven months. As punishment, weeks before we’re there, Croatia played Italy at an empty stadium in Split. A few minutes into the match it’s noticed someone has mown a Swastika into the grass. Hmmm…

Dubrovnik: Worldly, open-minded and not very Nazi. I’d happily go back to Croatia, but just this bit.

Rome: We return and do the Coliseum.

Alas, we’re a bit coliseummed out by now, and sick of the heat and of crowds twice as big as when I was here in 2000. Damn the cheapness of modern airfares.

We go to fly home but learn that the day before Rome’s airport had its second fire in two months. Long delays. We miss our connection in Amsterdam and must go to London instead. Finally, we get to Beijing, but our bags continue to enjoy their holiday “somewhere” in the world for four more days.

Still, looking back, I wouldn’t change one single thing. I’d change lots of them.

Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. This time around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of his domestic adventures at www.thetigerfather.com

SPORT | COMMUNIT Y

TALK THE WALK Lace Your Boots for the Beijing Hiking Festival 2015 i nt e r v i e w by Je n s B a k k e r

Beijing Hikers has been the capital’s goto hiking group for the past 14 years. The combination of multi-level fitness, remote scenery and good company has proved a winner, and with the group holding its second annual Hiking Festival on October 17, there’s no better time to head into the wild. We speak with Beijing Hikers’ Hayden Opie, originally from New Zealand, to find out more.

—First up, the Hiking Festival – what’s it all about?

This is our second Hiking Festival. Last year we had about 70 to 80 people take part, a mix of local Chinese and foreigners working here. It’s mainly just about having a fun day walking out in the hills. It’s a good opportunity for those who like hiking faster than usual because we’ve marked our routes in advance, so people can go at their own speed. It’s also good for families and more casual hikers because we’re having a party afterwards out in the hills with prizes, snacks and beer.

—There are two routes. How do they differ?

The long route is 24 kilometers and starts way out on the border of Beijing, in Hebei province. It starts at a village that was once barracks in the Ming Dynasty, so there are still some old walls. The hike goes up to 1,400 meters above sea level, up to a bell tower. The main views are mountains, countryside and villages.

The shorter route is 10 kilometers. It covers more of the Great Wall and does a loop in the hills, before coming back to the starting point. It’s all on the restored parts of the wall.

—And what kinds of fitness levels

are required for each route?

The 24-kilometer route is suitable for

people who are above-average fitness and experienced hikers, because there’s a 1,000m ascent and a lot of downhill as well.

You need to be used to hiking.

The 10-kilometer route is easier and more suited for people of average fitness.

—Does hiking in Beijing compare to your homeland, New Zealand?

The mountains are similar but the trees and plants are different. The main difference is that in New Zealand the population density is a lot lower so when you’re up in the mountains there are no villages around and you won’t bump into people. Beijing is also a lot drier so there’s not the same concern that you’re going to get soaking wet.

—Have you ever calculated how many kilometers you’ve covered in a year?

This year I’ve hiked about 600 kilometers, over 55 hikes. Last year I did 60 hikes and covered about 600 kilometers. Some of the other guys in the office cover at least 1,000 kilometers a year.

—You’ve been involved with drum ‘n’ bass promoters The Syndicate since the early days [as DJ Elemental]. Do you feel like you traded in the party lifestyle for something wholesome?

Well, I certainly have a healthier lifestyle now. But I’m actually playing The Syndicate tonight! I’ve got the early set, so I probably won’t stay too late.

—There are so many great activities on our doorstep. What would you say to encourage others to go out and explore?

I talk to a lot of people in Beijing who say they love hiking but just haven’t gone out and done it. There are great hikes just one hour or an hour-and-a-half out of the city. Beijing Hikers makes it really easy for

people – you just have to show up on time with the payment and jump on the bus into the mountains. If you want to get out of the city, get some exercise and chat with people who have similar interests, it’s a great way to socialize.

—Do you interact much with the villages your hikes pass through?

Yeah, we have good contacts with the people in the villages. Sometimes we use villagers as local guides and a lot of the hikes finish with a meal at a village restaurant.

—Do your hikes get competitive?

The people who use the hikes as training for other events like ultramarathons can be a little competitive. We had a lady who was training for Kilimanjaro who enjoyed our hikes. We’ve also had serious mountain climbers who’ve climbed Denali. They carry massive bags to get used to walking with that much weight. We also often have other people [non-athletes] who are focused on the exercise and don’t want to take breaks.

But for most it’s a social activity. We have a lot of people who book a hike for one and then make friends there.

—What’s the future look like for the Hiking Festival?

We plan to keep doing it. It may grow into something bigger but we also like how it’s more of a community event where people join and have a fun day out in the hills. It’s hiking for fun, rather than a big exercise challenge.

Sat Oct 17; RMB700/500 (24km/10km) or RMB630/450 for

members; For information about how to sign up for the Hiking Festival or Beijing Hikers, visit www.beijinghikers. com, email info@beijinghikers.com or call 6432 2786.

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Long Arm / Gig

Fanzui Xiangfa + Bad Nerve Gig

HEAR

HorseRadio Gig Following in the footsteps of established acts like Hanggai and Ajinai, Inner Mongolia’s Horse Radio fuse reggae and rock with the folk music of the ethnic minority Oirats. The four-piece, formally known as Taan Towch, seem more inclined to stick to tradition than their contemporaries, so expect a hearty dose of throat singing and horsehead fiddle. > Fri Oct 23; 9pm; RMB60 (presale), RMB80 (on the door); Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

Chengdu-based promoters New Noise have brought some of the biggest names in prog rock (Tortoise, Mono, This Will Destroy You) to China. But their latest booking, Long Arm, proves that they’re not afraid to diversify.

The Russian multi-instrumentalist is more associated with the electronic side of things, creating jazz-infused beats that skip between downtempo, glitchy trip-hop and something altogether more surreal. With releases on respected German label Project Mooncircle under his belt, Long Arm has attracted praise from the likes of Gilles Peterson and Hidden Orchestra.

His eclectic live show incorporates a range of synths and acoustic instruments, and he’ll be accompanied on stage by drummer Ruslan Gadzhimuradov. > Fri Oct 16; RMB80 (presale), RMB100 (on the door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

The Field + Laurel Halo / Gig

Since celebrating 60 years of bilateral ties in 2010, Sino-Swedish relations have undergone few developments of note. Until, that is, Beijing punk stalwarts Fanzui Xiangfa joined forces with Swedish trio Bad Nerve for a split EP last year. The collaboration continues in 2015 with a joint mini-tour of China which stops off at both School Bar and Temple. For fans of Fanzui Xiangfa there are further reasons to celebrate – to mark the band’s tenth anniversary, Genting Records has put all of their releases onto a single 24-track discography CD and vinyl. > Fri Oct 30, 9pm; RMB50; School Bar / Sat Oct 31; Temple Bar (see Listings for details)

Children of Bodom Heavy Metal

Harikiri DJs

Having turned 11 years old last month, The Syndicate gets back to its local roots. Former Beijing resident Harikiri makes a welcome return to Dada with support from Blackie, Clir, Donkey Tonk, Kay C and Elemental. There are worse ways to spend 30 kuai this month. > Sat Oct 24; RMB30; Dada (see Listings for details)

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There are few better barometers of quality than Metacritic. If it is to be believed, then The Field’s From Here We Go Sublime was the world’s best album in 2007.

The Swedish producer (whose real name, Axel Willner, actually sounds more techno than his stage name) has since moved away from the 4x4 sound of his debut and toward more experimental, somewhat darker territory.

In sum, we’re not really sure what to expect from The Field’s live set other than something very, very good. What’s more, Wooozy Offline has also brought in Hyperdub’s Laurel Halo, British producer Sam Barker and Beijing’s own iimmune in what must be one of the strongest lineups of 2015. > Fri 16 Oct, 9pm onwards; RMB100; Dada (see Listings for details)

Finnish band Children of Bodom have been making death metal (of the melodic variety) for over 20 years. So although the band arrive in Beijing just three days after the release of their new album, I Worshop Chaos, you can also expect some back-catalogue classics from albums like Halo of Blood, Hate Crew Deathroll and the characteristically uplifting Are You Dead Yet? Support comes from Japanese metal trio GYZE. > Mon Oct 5; 8pm onwards; RMB320 (presale), RMB380 (on the door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

Chinese Journalism in the US Film

Australian Swan Lake / Ballet

DO Explore Tea Culture City Tour

Join a group of fellow tea connoisseurs, amateurs, and thirsty friends on a journey to the Maliandao Tea City, where The Hutong’s resident tea expert will guide you through all the teas in China. With the help of native shopkeepers, the tour will take you on a step-by-step journey through China’s most famous teas and tea regions, inviting you to taste, smell and enjoy. > Every other Sunday throughout October; 10.30-3; RMB300; meet at Maliandao, for more info contact the Hutong, info@thehutong.com (159 0104 6127).

There are fewer than 10 Chinese students accepted every year

by Columbia Journalism School.

Besides adapting to a new life, they must deal with the huge difference between journalism in China and the US. Disappointed and depressed, they begin to doubt their choice to study in America, and consider dropping out. Upon graduation, they stand at an intersection: to stay in America, where work, culture and language are all obstacles, or return to China, where they face a different journalistic environment and possible rejection by the mainstream media. To stay or to go? The director – who was part of this graduating class – tells the story of her classmates and herself in this smart 68-minute documentary.> > Oct 9, 8pm, free entrance. The Bookworm, (see Listings for details)

Halloween Beer Mile Running

World Cup Final Rugby

The toughest sport on the planet reaches the pinnacle of its four year cycle, as the world’s two best rugby playing nations battle it out for the Webb Ellis Trophy. This year’s tournament, held in England and Wales, has already produced some of the most memorable and exciting games in the sport’s history, including a truly historic victory for the Brave Blossoms of Japan, against two-time World Champions South Africa. Can the mighty New Zealand All Blacks retain their title? Only time will tell. If you’re new to the sport, this thrilling game is likely to prove the perfect introduction. > Oct 31; Midnight; Paddy O’Shea's, (see Listings for details)

The Jing-A Beer Mile returns with a vengeance this Halloween. If you're brave enough, compete in this footrace where runners drink a pint of Jing-A beer at the start of each quarter-mile lap, and see if you can place on the podium and win great prizes (as well as awards for the funniest, gnarliest and sexiest costume). Just make sure to avoid the pumpkin-throwing goblins (and bar manager Justin Alters ) riding in the Jing-A Keg Egg. > Oct 31; 3pm; RMB120, includes four pints of beer during the run and a Jing-A Halloween Beer Mile T-shirt that you can proudly wear when you head back to work on Monday, register in advance at jingabrewing.com, costume required.

The Australian Ballet is returning to China for the first time in nine years, presenting the Beijing premiere of their hit adaptation of Swan Lake and a mixed suite programme at NCPA Theatre from October 16-18.

Created by one of the country’s most successful choreographers, Graeme Murphy, Swan Lake has been the company’s most successful hit. Artistic Director David McAllister promises their version will be unlike any that Beijing has ever seen before. “Using the love triangle of Odette, Prince Siegfried and the Baroness Von Rothbart, Swan Lake very loosely evokes the tragic love affair of Princess Diana, Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles,” he explains: “It really is very different to any Swan Lake productions.”

In addition, the Australian Ballet will perform a mixed programme that highlights classical ballet (Serge Lifar’s Suite en Blanc’), contemporary dance (‘In the Upper Room’) and an emotional duet (‘Unspoken Dialogues’).

A legendary dancer in his own right, McAllister is excited that Mainland audiences will meet “a whole new generation of dancers.” Undoubtedly the biggest of those new names is Guo Chengwu. The Jiangxi province native was a member of the Beijing Dance Academy as an 11-year-old and won the top prize in the Chinese edition of So You Think You Can Dance in 2009. The first male dancer to win the esteemed Telstra Ballet Dancer Award and the Telstra People’s Choice Award, Guo has been a principal dancer with Australian Ballet since 2013.

Now 26 years old, Guo can barely contain his excitement for the upcoming shows. “When the tour was announced, I knew it was going to be very special,” he says. “I thought it would be really cool to go back and perform in front of my home people. I can’t wait to show my teachers and friends how far I have come.” He will show off his classical and contemporary sides, performing in two of the mixed program’s pieces. For Swan Lake, he promises “a ballet in suits – a beautiful combination of classical ballet and modern style.”

Andrew Chin > Mixed Suite: Oct 16, 7.30pm; RMB160-880. NCPA Opera House, 400 610 3721, en.damai.cn. > Swan Lake: Oct 17-18, 7.30pm; RMB160-880. NCPA Opera House, 400 610 3721, en.damai.cn.

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Halloween Girl’s Night Party

Ramo’s First Anniversary / Party

TA S T E

Caravan x Jing-A Kitchen Takeover Dining We’re suckers for Jing-A’s Kitchen Takeovers, as all of Beijing is, apparently, because they’ve been routinely packed. This month sees a collaboration between Jing-A and Caravan, the excellent Moroccan restaurant by Badr Benjelloun, Beijing’s chef with the best beard.

We got to sample the menu ahead of time (heh), and the food is great – especially the slow-roasted Mechoui lamb. > RMB100; Thu Oct 22, 7pm; Jing-A Taproom, (see Listings for details)

Melissa – you know, of Juice by Melissa – is Beijing’s reigning queen of ladies nights. So this month, she’s planned something special. Rather than the typical Thursday deal, she’ll be celebrating the Thursday of Halloweekend in proper festive style with special pumpkin spiced rum cocktails. When you buy one pumpkin-spiced drink she’ll give you a an actual pumpkin for free to carve in her shop. Winner of the most creative pumpkin gets a free hangover package delivered to them on Nov 1. Halloween never felt so healthy. > 6-9pm, Thu Oct 29; Juice by Melissa, Unit 101, Dongwai Mansion, 3 Xinzhong Dong Jie, Dongcheng 东城区新中东街3号东外 公关底 (130 4112 1556)

Ramo is having a first birthday party, and it’s celebrating with – of course – pizza. The team behind all that Italian food’s got a full day of festivities lined up, the highlight of which will be free-flow pies from 4-6pm. And for a chance to create your own pizza that will end up on Ramo’s menu, enter the pizzaeating contest – the fastest wins.

There’ll also be music, deals on wine and RMB40 Jing-A draft. And to top it all off, they’ll be unveiling a huge pizza – no word on dimensions yet, but they’ve promised it’ll be “massive.” > Mon Oct 26, 3-10pm; Ramo; 64 Fangjia Hutong Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同 64号(8403 5004); to enter the pizza-eating contest, text your name, number and email to Ramo’s WeChat @ramo

Hairy Crabs / Seasonal Food

Coffee Cocktails at Rager Pie Drinking

Tastes of Belgium Dining

The esteemed chef of Brussels restaurant Chez Leon is having a pop-up at Conrad Beijing, and his offerings will include culinary classes and, of course, incredible Belgian food. > Mon Oct 19- Sun Oct 25; Chapter, Conrad Beijing; 29 North East Third Ring Road 北东三环29号(6584 6270)

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Rager Pie’s new coffee cocktails are killer. And by that we mean you might actually die. Kidding (sort of?!?) – they’re packed with huge amounts of both caffeine and alcohol, but are so damn tasty we drank them scarily fast. Offerings include alcoholic coffee milkshakes, sweet caffeinated shots and a cocktail with – wait for it – an entire pie in it. Pick up one of these before a night out, and you’re good to go. > Daily; Rager Pie, 10 Fensiting Hutong 分司厅胡同10号; (186 0003 1390)

This is what Shanghai is like in October: all 23 million of the city’s residents roam the streets in a hairy crab-induced daze, snapping crustaceans in half, their pincers dangling from their rabid, crabby mouths. And Beijing is no longer immune to this crabpocalypse. We kid, but seriously, hairy crabs are a big deal, and mighty tasty too, so get ‘em this month while they’re fresh. Suck the meat from every cranny of their shells, pair them with Shaoxing yellow wine or order some crab roe xiaolongbao. Hairy crab is a star dish of Chinese cuisine, so don’t miss out. Look for Shanghainese restaurants and specially created (and lavish) menus at Beijing hotels. > Various locations, through November

Capital M Literary Festival / Literature

The Precious Collection of the Stone Moat Art

SEE It’s a bit of a mouthful, sure, but The Precious Collection of the Stone Moat also promises to be a feast for the eyes. The exhibition showcases 283 treasures that were recorded in a catalog under the supervision of Qing Dynasty emperors.

One of these treasures is ‘China’s Mona Lisa’ – a.k.a. Along the River During the Qingming Festival. It’s not the real Mona Lisa but it’s bigger (5.28-meters long to be exact) and is considered one of the most renowned Chinese paintings. It is so special, in fact, that it was completely unrolled for the first time in nearly a decade for the exhibition, which marks the Palace Museum’s 90th anniversary. The artwork, created by famous Chinese painter Zhang Zeduan (1085-1145), depicts the cityscape and daily life of Bian Jing, the capital of the Northern Song Dynasty. Check it out now, or else you might have to wait another 10 years. > Daily through November 8; Palace Museum, Forbidden City 东城区天安 门广场北侧

Oceans Art Oceans: An Invitation to the Dream, A Promise of Adventure is essentially a 21st century love letter to the big blue sea. Visitors can expect art exhibitions, installations and interactive workshops, which celebrate the beauty of the oceans, and also highlight environmental issues such as marine and shark conservation.

The exhibition serves as an important reminder of the ocean’s magnificence and the extent to which mankind relies upon it. > Daily through October; 1-7pm; free; Salone Monaco, Parkview Green, Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号(世贸天阶西门 对面)

Kekexili Film Screening

V is for Vigilante in Kekexili, a film about a group of volunteer vigilantes who try to protect endangered antelopes from poachers on the Tibetan plateau. Based on real events, the film captures the harsh but scenic environment of Tibet and plays out like something out of the wild, wild... east. > Sun Oct 18; 7pm; RMB50 (RMB20 for CY students); Culture Yard (see Listings for details)

Intimate Improv Theater It’s Capital L time – that is L for ‘literature’ – and Capital M is where it’s at.

This year, Capital M’s Literary Festival coincides with Halloween, which means it’s going to be scarily good.

The festival attracts local and regional authors, as well as others from over 20 countries around the world. This year, there’s a top line-up of writers including James Pearson, author of North Korea Confidential, Robyn Davidson, Leta Hong Fincher and Ed Larson.

The festival’s activities include panel discussions, photography, poetry slams, film screenings and more. And with Capital M perfectly placed in Qianmen, you can trust the festival will bring stunning views as well as good chat. Add in Capital M’s delectable food and drink and you can’t go wrong.

Boo! Calling all writers to submit their horror masterpieces for the Literary Festival’s Halloween flash fiction competition. We’re looking for writers to spill their blood, guts, gore and more in 1,000 words or less. Whether your writing is more Stephen King or Bram Stoker, anything flies as long as it gives us goose bumps. The winners will have the chance to read their ghost story around the campfire (i.e. Capital M’s bar) on Halloween (Oct 31) with other prizes to be announced. We want to know what you did last summer so email your story to bjeditor@urbanatomy.com Follow our WeChat for competition and Festival updates: Thats_Beijing > Oct 30-Nov 1, All Sessions RMB75 (incl. a drink) or RMB20 children/students, apart from Literary Lunch, RMB188; Capital M, (see Listings for details)

Check out Beijing Improv’s all-new long-form performance for a fun(ny) night out. China’s oldest and largest improvised theater organization boasts members trained in the best improv schools in the world. While you can expect a quality time, the rest is unexpected – the performers go script-less, using audience suggestions to create hilarious scenes.

All you have to do is get your comfy pants and thinking hats on – you’ll receive a glass of vino in hand.

Done deal. > Sat Oct 3; 7.30pm; RMB75, RMB65 for members; The Bookworm, see Listings for details

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WEEKLY SPECIALS

Happy hours Meal deals Brunch

Food and Drink

Ladies' nights

The Meatball Company Few Beijing restaurants have a stronger lexical identity than The Meatball Company, whose team finds a way to incorporate the word ‘balls’ into just about everything it does. Wanna email them? Better believe their official email is eatourballs@gmail.com. They call their space the Baller Pad. And, inspired by their brazenness, our June review of the place was similarly ballsy (that just means we made a lot of puns with the word ‘balls’).

Wow, the cleverness. The attitude. What an office to work in. Anyway, we digress. The name of TMBC’s Wednesday special breaks out of the company’s typical vocabulary: Subs to da Wall. Not Balls to da Wall. Not even Subs to ‘the’ Wall. It’s Subs to ‘da’ Wall. What? Where are the balls? we ask.

Answer: in between two buns. If there’s one thing TMBC does real, real well, it’s a meatball sub, and for Subs to da Wall Wednesdays, they’re half off. All day. It’s that simple. What’s more, pitchers of sangria are only RMB100.

It’s a killer deal, but it’s sweetened by the fact that you can now take TMBC sauces home with you. The company has officially launched Ladle & Spice, its line of sauces including their classic marinara and a ‘hot as balls’ hot sauce (hah, see what they did there?). > Wednesdays, noon-10pm; The Meatball Company, 27 Dashibei Hutong, Xicheng 西 城区大石碑胡同27号

M O N DAY to FR I DAY MONDAY Mai Bar Buy two cocktails, get one free. > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

MONDAY TO THURSDAY XIU Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, 6-9pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)

MONDAY TO FRIDAY One East Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per person, 12:00-2:30pm.

2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 酒店2层 5865 5030 Great Leap Brewing 11.30am-2pm, free soft drink or juice with any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Pale Ale #6. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see Listings for details) Hagaki Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge.

5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Jing Yaa Tang Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 6 8 O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) Agua Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ person for three courses. > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Greyhound Café Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details) Village Café Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB88+15% (2 courses) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5210)

MONDAY TO SATURDAY Twilight Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, RMB20 off cocktails. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 (5900 5376)

TUESDAY Flamme Two-for-one steak all day. > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)

Pebbles Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as you want. > Midday to midnight; 74 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同74 号 (8404 0767)

TUESDAY TO FRIDAY S.T.A.Y Restaurant Three courses including coffee and tea for RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Mosaic Buy-one-get-one-free pizza every Wednesday lunchtime at Mosaic. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Xian Whiskey night, discounts on special selected whiskeys. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9810)

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

Great Leap Brewing All day Wednesday, one select beer at RMB25. > At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see listings for details)

Domain Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger promotion. > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9830)

Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体西门58号 (6551 2373) 4Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ weekly celebration of KTV. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石 杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

Opus Terrace Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)

FRIDAY Mesh House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 free. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)

CITY SCENES In the newest season of Power Rangers, starring That’s Beijing editors and Tongzhou-based artists, our intergalactic heroes just hang around in arts villages and drink overpriced lattes

Incredibly small people lift normal-sized paella at the Renaissance Tianjin Lakeview Hotel’s Spanish Food Festival

Despite his exhibition being called ‘Revealed,’ Sofitel Wanda Beijing’s presenter takes his time doing the revealing

When [Rob] Cunningham isn’t cutting ham, he’s rubbing hands with a funny man, at [EAST Hotel Beijing]

MINI celebrates its 56th birthday at the St. Regis Tianjin shortly before falling asleep in front of the TV at 9

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LISTINGS RESTAURANT

OPEN DOOR

The Hot One Hundred About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

CHINESE Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 酒店2层 (5960 8822)

Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is the place for mountainous shaved ice desserts and creamy bubble teas. > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. com.cn for details

The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous.

PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

INDIAN KITCHEN Keep Calm and Curry On Indian Kitchen has always been a favorite of ours – the expansive restaurant overlooking the Liangma River has been serving up quality curries and masalas for years now. But that doesn’t mean that they’re resting on their laurels, menu-wise. We stopped by last month to try the restaurant’s newest dishes, both featuring prawns, and we heartily recommend them both.

The tandoori prawns (RMB38 per piece) are delightfully grilled to perfection with just the right amount of spice. And nothing balances that out better than the masala prawns (also RMB38 per piece), which are smothered in rich, flavorful gravy. Dip them in the accompanying mint sauce, or just eat them plain – they’re good enough as is.

These aren’t your baby cocktail shrimp, mind you. Each prawn at Indian Kitchen is a multi-inch affair with the girth to match. They’re shrimp, sure, but they ain’t no shrimp. > Indian Kitchen, see Listings for details

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No 16 Courtyard 后海16号 (Beijing) Houhai No. 16 is a courtyard restaurant in Houhai, specializes in dishes once served for the government in the imperial times, with customizable menus. ¥380/person (without drinks)Open: 11.30am-9pm

> D4, Dajin Hutong. Xicheng District, 西城区后海 大金丝胡同4号 010-83226461,13716551797 www. houhai16.com

Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) Resembling something between a nightclub and a theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes.

> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)

Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of China, including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)

Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese restaurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and

Expensive...................................¥ Expense Account ....................¥¥ Highly Recommended ..............* Top Ten ....................................**

tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, so expect sweet and delicate and sweet flavors with impeccable presentation. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广场C 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666)

Peking Duck Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadongdadong.com for more locations

Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

Shanghai Shanghai Min 小南国 Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469)

Sichuan/Hunan Chuan Ban 川办 * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号 院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

South Memory 望湘园 This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with locals. > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. southmemory.com for more locations

Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 The menu here is old-fashioned and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations

Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into

LISTINGS chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service complete the experience. > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com for other locations.

Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Chinese dining at its best.

> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

Yunnan Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大 街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect district for Yunnan food, and this little gem is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town. > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318)

Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian)

Regional Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites.

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> Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281)

Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.

Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational. > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800)

Makye Ame (Tibetan) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb.

> Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街 甲11号 (6506 9616)

ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shaobing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good.

Queues of locals are testament. > Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东 城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like dapanji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)

WESTERN Fine Dining

An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am).

Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)

Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.

> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Dumplings Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food. > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommendation the prices have risen and the walls are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)

Aria ¥¥ (European) * A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around RMB150, the prices reflect that.

In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Piedmont wine it is named after.

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 酒店内 (5908 8151)

Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.

The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

> Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea. > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727)

Héritage ¥¥ A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with Michelin star restaurant experience and an extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广 场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight

4CORNERS Rock N’ (Spring) Roll You probably don’t need to be reminded about 4Corners. It’s a delightfully calm space for dinner, then riotously packed come Friday or Saturday night – and we wouldn’t have it any other way. The place is an institution.

Seriously, there’s a reason to go every night of the week, whether for quiz nights on Tuesdays, open mic nights on Thursdays or live bands on the weekends.

In case you’ve forgotten, though, here’s the deal. 4Corners serves some of the best authentic Vietnamese in town (several varieties of pho, killer spring rolls), as well as tasty Western fare and loads of gluten-free options. The atmosphere is relaxed and convivial – we love the string lights dangling from the ceiling. And, best of all, it’s a gathering place for Beijingers and adopted Beijingers, so we dare you not to make new friends at this place – or run into old ones.

(You’ve probably seen us there and just don’t realize it. Say hi!) > Tue-Sun, noon-late; 27 Dashibei Hutong烟袋斜街北侧大石碑胡同27号 (6401 7797)

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LISTINGS to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu.

>Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店 亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 (5695 8888)

S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics kitchen concept, which includes a mouthwatering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for international standard fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香 格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩 祝寺23号 (8400 2232)

Contemporary Western Alfie’s ¥ (British) What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

Caribeño (Latin) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes from all over the Latin continent here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos.

Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308)

VIC Not to be confused with the notorious nightclub of the same name, this VIC is the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restaurant. All the major world cuisines are in attendance here – make you pay special attentions to the French-inspired breads and pastries – as is the customary Sunday champagne brunch. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号 万达广场C 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Yi House (Contemporary Western) Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Café/Deli/Sandwich Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.

Gets cozy at night.

Café Flatwhite

> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

Miss K Cafe (Xing Fu Cafe) Whether it’s a rainy morning or a sunny afternoon, relax with your favorite novel and a cup of freshly brewed coffee. Experience a quiet moment of serenity amid the hustle and bustle of Beijing. >Daily, 8am-8.30pm; 1/F, Tower A, East Gate Plaza, Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东环广场A座 一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096)

Missa (European) Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet, you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant.

> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

The Woods * New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that.

>Daily Tue-Fri 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am (kitchen closes at 10pm), Sat/Sun 11.30am-3pm, 6pm-12am; Liangmahe Nan Lu, west side of Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马河南路 新东路西侧渔阳饭店对 面 (8532 5335)

> Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 8587 1899

> Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; 1 Sanlitun Soho Store: B1-239, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北 路8号院, 三里屯SOHO, 2号楼B1-239 (5785 3762 / 15910944325); 2) 751 D-Park Store: No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区751动力广 场 (6432 2798 / 13522120390);3) 798 Dashanzi Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区酒仙桥路4 号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / 13051771436); 4 China Central Mall Store (Hua Mao): China Central Mall, Room L315, 81 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang朝阳 区建国路81号L315 8588 7978 / 15652922791);5) Jianguomenwai DRC Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号 建国门外外交公 寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189) www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafeflatwhite@hotmail.com, WeChat username: Cafe-Flatwhite

Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, with somewhat questionable price tags.

> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm.

833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 8号楼833 (6417 1318)

MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary Western) * Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)

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> Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 2号院 (6591 9161)

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide ranging menu has something for everyone, especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types.

TRIBE * Induction to this Tribe appears to involve spending somewhere in the region of RMB100 on a kale salad and a freshly pressed juice, while basking in the warm, conceited glow that comes from knowing that you are Eating Well. Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic.

Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads and brunch options, all served alongside some of the best coffee in Beijing.

Tim’s Texas BBQ * Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn homestyle briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s recommended.

> 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 号院清华科技园D座1楼 8215 8826 )

Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Liangma River. Menu features British classics like fish & chips and bangers & mash. The breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms.

> Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

> Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)

Union Bar and Grill The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff.

The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

Café Zarah (Café) * A smart new interior and menu for this longstanding cafe has propelled it from hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, airy and with a terrace for summer, the only downside is it’s always packed.

> Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 67号 (6445 7076)

Grill 79 (Steak) With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

Ricci Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit (duh), this creative café has a funky, kookymeets-organic vibe and serves up some of the best casual western food in town, and a great brunch at the Wudaokou location (Chaoyang branch closed weekends).

> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069)

Chi (Organic, Fusion) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced.

From the owners of neighboring Saffron.

> Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

> Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 朝阳公园路6号院 蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

> Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

> Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh shells from Canada, South Africa, France, USA and more – and they are well worth the price. The fries are the best we’ve had in Beijing, beer and wine selection also excellent.

MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent.

Wagas (Contemporary Western) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town.

The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

> Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional locations in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

American/BBQ/Grill The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm.

First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com)

Home Plate BBQ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路 路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

NOLA N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole.

> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)

> Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号 新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)

Burgers Blue Frog This Shanghai hamburger franchise has been keeping Americans in China obese since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed.

> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Burger Bar Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and truffles. Burger King this ain’t. > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二 层 ( 5690 7000)

Chef Too ¥ With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town. > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

Steak 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号2层 (6584 6270))

Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号 丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contemporary Western) ¥¥ * The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order.

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西 城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

O’Steak A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic French bistro – not a Guinness in sight. > Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 8250)

Flamme (Contemporary Western) Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing.

Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail

LISTINGS menu.

> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤 港商场269号 (8420 0270)

Mexican/Tex Mex Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 (6416 5212)

Taco Bar Rising from the ashes of its deceased hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, popular and able to produce some of the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only RMB45 for three and great cocktails to complement.

> Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026)

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (KoreanMexican fusion) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce.

Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Cali’ cocktails, too. > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)

Italian Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508)

Bene ¥ * Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Cepe ¥ In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街 丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666)

Isola Bar & Grill Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza. > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳 区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com; 6416 3499)

Mercante ¥ * Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains. > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Opera Bombana ¥ Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and certainly the only to have opened a restaurant in Beijing. > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)

Pizza Tube Station Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to

be the biggest in town.

> Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装 大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

La Pizza Among the upper echelons of Beijing pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branches in Solana and pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3

> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港 湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990)

Spanish Agua ¥ * Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant.

shishas in town”, Mosaic restaurant & bar offers a range of great value delicacies and cocktails, served up in a cozy setting with a friendly and personalized service. One of few places in Beijing to offer genuine Arabic shishas (hookah), Mosaic is a hidden Sanlitun gem.

> Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32 号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065)

Rumi (Middle Eastern) Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.

> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi branch worth it. > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

> Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 园 (5208 6188)

Asian

Migas ¥ * The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations.

Bhoomi Store Indian Food Shop

Indian

Bhoomi stores One stop destination where a wide range of Indian & Pakistani food products are served. 266 Yaohong Lu，by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang district，(021-2428 3400)

> Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm 闵行区姚 虹路266号, 近红松东路

Indian Kitchen

> Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 层(6503 5555)

Paulaner Brauhaus The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 层 (6467 2961)

Cuju Moroccan Bistrot & Rummery * CuJu used to be a cozy little hutong sports bar with an incredible rum selection, but now it’s a cozy little Moroccan bistrot and rummery – so it still has an awesome rum selection. Badr’s Moroccan food might be the best in town.

> 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie, Dongcheng 东城区细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)

Mosaic Restaurant & Bar Promising “the best shawarmas and

Malacca Legend Malaysian food with a view, this spacious and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for their beef rendang or green curry prawns. > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗 各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccalegend.com)

Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it. > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号 旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

> Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Li Sanlitun then.

> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

> Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝 阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

African/Middle Eastern

Biteapitta * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

> CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com

Purple Haze (Thai) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town. Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45).

> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)

Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors.

4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with frequent live indie performances.

> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 3层 (5208 6052)

1001 Nights There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The whole Arabic dining package is on offer here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.

South-East Asian

> Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

Niajo ¥ * With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is prime Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain (minus the constant sunshine).

Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus with a Filipino cover band can be) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site).

> Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details.

Flor de Loto Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Korea-town.

> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 6层 (5208 6061)

German

put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer.

The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation and very available on JinShiSong online delivery. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255

Raj Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authentic Indian, espcially the rather fine naan. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675))

Ganges Conveniently located above popular Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or

Susu (Vietnamese) The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish. > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)

Japanese Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) As much a California roll joint as true Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists. > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Inagiku * This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near to perfection as you’re likely to find.

Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to be missed.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | O C T O B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7 3

LISTINGS > Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生 活3层315室 (8517 2838)

Happy Sake (Japanese) When it comes to sake, owner Taka Yamamoto is an expert, responsible for around 80 percent of all high-quality sake imported to China. His restaurant is dedicated to food meant to be enjoyed with sake. Stylish and relaxed, high-quality and affordable - Happi Sake hits all the right notes.

> Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-midnight; Jia 2, Tuanjiehu Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北路甲 2号(6582 8216)

Sake Manzo * The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil.

The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town.

> Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608)

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达 北京酒店6层 (6581 0072)

Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu RMB1,000), but what would you expect from some of the best sushi in town?

Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above. > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区 钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台 西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)

Korean Ai Jiang Shan This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain.

> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags.com for other locations

Saveurs de Coree This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true. > Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Vegetarian Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and they offer cooking classes as well. > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2 层0260 (5900 1288) Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city. > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同19号. (6446 2073)

BARS TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

Arrow Factory The newest craft beer taproom on the block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway brimming with good Anglo-ScWEEandinavian vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales.

A winning combination > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭 厂胡同38号 （6407 6308）

8-Bit Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner?

Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable RMB25 a glass.

> Daily, 1pm-2am, 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 北 锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538))

BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) The brainchild of local spirits professional Douglas Williams, this bar provides the discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and straight-razor shaves.

> 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com)

The Brick A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.

> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院 天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Capital Spirits A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely hutong setting, friendly owners and great bottle collection.

> Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东 城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. com)

China Bar ¥¥ Top views from the 65th floor and flash drinks are the attractions on offer at this hip hotel bar.

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)

CICADA Ultralounge ¥ The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost. > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9898)

Cu Ju Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destination and sports fan’s manna all rolled into one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering North African food with an international cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums and sports broadcasts from basketball to cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best all-around bar-restaurants. > 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, www.cujubeijing.com

Daily Routine 日常生活 This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough.

Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and the drinks at this establishment change seasonally according to ingredient availability.

Light cafe fare is available during the day. > 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159

El Nido * The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El

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Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally. > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 里花园D405室 (5208 6076)

First Floor First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company.

At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps. // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)

Fubar Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name. Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.

> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人 体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

Glen ¥ Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere.

See for yourself. > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)

Glen Classic ¥ Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草 园26号 (6551 6788)

Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good.

Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角 胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. greatleapbrewing.com)

Hidden Lounge * Although frustrating to find, Hidden Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Heaven Supermarket A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415 6513)

Ichikura ¥ One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails.

Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge. > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环

北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

The Irish Volunteer Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret.

A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311 号 (6438 5581)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails. > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 4号院 ( 6503 2757)

Jing-A Taproom ** In just a few years, these guys developed from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding publicans with their own range of souvenir T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-andmortar taproom, which is large, warm and sociable, and has up to 16 different beers on tap. > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院

Maggie’s ¥ A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture. > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 门 (8562 8142)

Mai Bar * Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town.

> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)

Mao Mao Chong ** The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)

Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).

> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Parlor Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.

> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)

Revolution * Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍 * A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086) > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

The Tree A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.

Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)

LISTINGS Trouble Bar Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft beers. Stocks a large draft selection and an even larger selection of bottles. Also does a nice line in creative cocktails, if brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to accommodate any event, meetings, and gatherings.

> 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育 场东路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, troublebar@gmail.com, www.trouble.bar)

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** This popular microbrewery has its own pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs.

Quality ales that change depending on the season, heated floors and a great little kitchen round out the deal. > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

10 Best Livehouses Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Great little livehouse near Meishuguan with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock.

Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly. > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969)

Hot Cat Club 热力猫 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space. > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 46号(6400 7868).

Jianghu 江湖酒吧 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the gethome-for-the-babysitter crowd. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡 同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@gmail.com)

Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍 Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this former warehouse plays host to a Silk Road smorgasbord of musical encounters from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget the overpriced bar and come for the killer sound, comfortable wraparound balcony and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang restaurant upstairs. > Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 1113, www.mako001.com)

MAO Livehouse 光芒 * From the denim-jacketed doorman to the well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hitting this side of the Drum Tower.

> 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区 鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山 Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines. > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号 当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

Temple 坛 * Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie,

Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 202 (131 6107 0713)

School Bar 学校酒吧 * Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947)

Trouble Bar Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft beers. Stocks a large draft selection and an even larger selection of bottles. Also does a nice line in creative cocktails, if brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to accommodate any event, meetings, and gatherings. > 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu,

Chaoyang District (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人 体育场东路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, troublebar@gmail.com, www.trouble.bar)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711）

Sports Bars The Den At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and grows steadily sadder as night turns to day.

It can get rough and ready come dawn.

Solid (cheap) menu, good location and those opening times earn it a place. > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边

MIX A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix is one of those places in Beijing you have to experience before you leave. Not much is forbidden in this underground hip-hop disco palace and if you don’t leave with hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong. > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ sohu.com

Vics Separated at birth from its identical twin brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti sweatbox meat-market chic at its very finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics to become one of the most infamous clubs in the capital. > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333)

Hotel Bars Atmosphere ¥¥ Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.

> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大 酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

Paddy O’Shea’s * An entire Irish-themed pub, which could easily been trasnsported, untouched, from a back alley in Limerick and gently deposited in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports.

Xian ¥ This enlongated bar space makes a nice spot for refreshment after a day spent shopping at neighboring Indigo.

V Sports Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars.

Brad Clinic Welcome to Brad Clinic, Beijing’s unique skincare and anti-aging center. Our professional and personalized treatments rejuvenate the skin safely, naturally and most effectively while restoring your skin’s natural beauty and health. We offer: skin rejuvenation and re-firming, hair removal, acne and sun spots treatment, and wrinkle reduction.

> Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)

Nightclubs The Bar at Migas * A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man.

> Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 1层 (6561 8833)

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)

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>Tue-Sat 9am-6pm, Room 2103, Tower E1, The Towers, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang’An Ave, Dong Cheng 东城区东长安街1号东方广场东方经贸城E1办公 楼2103室 (8518 2103/ 5688, contact@BradClinic.com)

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> Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)

> Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区工体北路三里屯Soho3 号楼2层217 (5785 3711, jusonghao@hotmail.com); > Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI International Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广场3层T—5 (84722855)

Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls. > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Jindafit Created by D’Jack Tchinda, Jindafit is a fullbody workout that turns African dance and music into seamless sequences that burns fat, tones muscles and relax your mind.

Jindafit can be joined by everyone; there is not limitation to your level of fitness.

Thanks to the combination of inspiring music, easy-to-follow choreography and great results, Jindafit is a promise to rock the fitness world.

JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with over 18 years of experience in Beijing.

They provide a full range of surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their standard for service is focused on maintaining the best technologies in the field of cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful results safely. > Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn)

> Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

> Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong

Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up a natural tan. When it finally reaches the warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give you that golden glow with its quick, safe and effective technology. With a membership card, enjoy a 50-minute session for RMB400 and come away with natural, healthy-looking color.

> Contact: jindafit@outlook.com; T: 188-0132-1096; facebook.com/jindafit; Instragram: @jindafit

Chocolate It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women.

Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows.

Dada * It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene.

Black Golden Tanning Studio 古铜日晒 中心

> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体 育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989)

The Local * Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.

Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another.

> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

> Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building B, Sunshine100 International Apartment, Guanghua Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际 公寓B座301室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeautysalon.com)

Lantern * Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

Centro ¥ Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini.

> Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体北路4号院 (6591 9525)

treatment that uses a laser to stimulate collagen production and soften lines.

Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B 栋101室 (183 1108 0818)

Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has catered to thousands of Beijing expats and locals and is renowned for its premium waxing services and imported wax that smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t your thing, the salon also specializes in an array of other treatments including IPL Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 15-minute

Alona Pilates Studio Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels.

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LISTINGS > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com)

Luxura Tanning Center This tanning salon has some of the city’s best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan possible, get custom-made tanning tips from the well-trained staff.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳 区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.luxura.net)

Lily Nails A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and waxing services too.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号 东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)

ZELL BeauCare Clinic 泽尔丽格医疗美容

their service and batting a few balls.

> Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区 景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re

a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, including manicures, pedicures & waxing.

Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI.

> EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 E-mail: catherine@catherinedefrance.com Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. com

SPA & MASSAGE Angel Hands Massage Center

California Fitness Beijing Club California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia. Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment.

> www.heyrobics.com, info@heyrobics.com

HAIR SALONS Laurent Falcon

Essential Oil SPA (original price: RMB288/ hr), promotional price RMB230/hr now. Let us release your stress and make you smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off. Our masseuses will know how to pamper you and attend to your every need.

> Room 301, Building 5, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO, 5号楼301 (138 1182 1008)

Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat Created as a contemporary urban retreat, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

Overseen by Fellow of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS), ZELL cosmetic clinic provides state-of-art comprehensive minimal invasive procedures, including, Botox, dermal filler, fractionated laser skin resurfacing, Ulthera skin tightening and lifting, professional skin care treatment (acne, pigmentation, aging), and plastic surgery (including double eyelid, rhynoplasty, among others).

> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方 广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝 阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎 桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)

> Unit 2002, 1/F, Vantone Center, 6A Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街甲6号万 通中心AB座一层2002 (010-59073390,18612483390, www.zellbeauty.com)

Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain of contemporary spas. Calming flower aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui fountains create a soothing atmosphere in each of their locations, while a long list of treatments from around the world cater to all pampering needs.

Sport Yihe 42° Hot Yoga

> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)

DENTAL The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon.

Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, RMB115-468 men.

3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay!

Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to begin your journey into Yoga, so they are available to answer any questions you may have. It’s a great workout for the body and calming for the mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 9996, 8599 7395)

> 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Centre Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. (8535 1002, 131 4667 9913). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. 三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971)

Catherine de France

> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路 蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园 西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www. yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨 石大厦3FA serve@cyclechina.com or cyclechina@ hotmail.com)

Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect

Arrail Dental Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants. > 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南 角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关 村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公 寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all appointments.

Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a trained team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in

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> Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, joinway@dentalcn.com, www.dentalcn.com)

SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 The full spectrum of dentistry. Services include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted.

>South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com

Heyrobics “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs.

The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule.

Joinway Dental As one of Beijing’s most reputable and trusted dental practices, Joinway Dental provides the perfect combination of cutting edge technology and comfortable treatment, while maintaining the strictest sanitary and sterilization processes. The clinic uses imported materials of the highest quality and its professional, US-trained staff offers a personalized and private service.

> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙 科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)

> www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号 阳光广场东侧 .

Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.

Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北 京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**MonFri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中 海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488

HEALTH SERVICES Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. amcare.com.cn)

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken. > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric Clinic

> Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣 和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn)

Beijing Passion International Medical Center This full-service international clinic provides 24-hr general medical care and a patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion International Medical Center is equipped with the latest in medical technology and is designed to support the comfort, safety and privacy of patients.

> 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大 厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院

> Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外 大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266.

Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国 门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部 饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天 竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义 区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102.

Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri,

LISTINGS 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号 外交人 员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn

Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院

School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language. More than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区 光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmandarinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)

Beijing Juncheng Language School 北京君诚语言学校 > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳 门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙 路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

> Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net

Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所

Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门 北大街2号 港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, 6553-2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www. hkclinic.com

International SOS Since 1989, International SOS has been run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments. Languages spoken include English, German, French, Mandarin, Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎 中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)

Parkway Health Clinic

> Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心 AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@ parkwayhealth.cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼 北京Link 101-201室

Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所

> 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 85296618. Email: vista@vista-china.net. Website: www. vista-china.net

OASIS International Hospital OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

Culture Yard Voted Best Mandarin School in Beijing for 2015 by That’s Beijing readers!

Ready to take your Chinese to the next level? We offer personalized Mandarin classes for serious language learners of all levels.

Why choose us?

•Learn in a small group of up to 6 students •Get your Chinese level evaluated and your study goals set on our detailed level test •Reach an HSK4 level in less than one year on our flagship Intensive Program!

•Learn from professional teachers with master degrees in teaching Chinese to foreigners •Study in a centrally located, cozy and sunny hutong courtyard •Practice on the go with Culture Yard customized online tools •Discover Chinese culture on our Chinese Through Cinema movie nights and other cultural activities •Study the most common Chinese characters in our Characters Building course Need more?

•Classes are focused on speaking and understanding real Chinese that native speakers use •Serious approach to Chinese learning with regular homework assignments and tests •We offer Chinese Media classes for advanced learners •The school was opened by a western educator passionate about Chinese learning

Don’t take our word for it? See what our students say about us on www.cultureyard. net/reviews Contact us: contact@cultureyard.net/ 01084044166/Wechat: CultureYard

The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 (15321793321 Grettchin)

The Frontiers School

MBA & EMBA Schools

> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三 环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537)

> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)

Mandarin Schools Beijing Mandarin Language School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin

The International Montessori School of Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully registered international Montessori school.

The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Mandarin/English program geared towards helping students achieve fluency in either language from an early age. Curriculum aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a high teacher-student ratio and impressive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 - RMB177,000/year. > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, http:>www.msb.edu.cn, admissions@msb.edu.cn

Join the friendly and professional team at Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin for 11 years. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. com.cn)

International Schools Beijing BISS International School 北京BISS国际学校 > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. com.cn)

Beijing City International School 北京乐成国际学校 Located in Beijing’s Central Business

Harrow International School Beijing 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Harrow International School Beijing prides itself on its high academic standards, a close-knit school community, a rich extracurricular activity program and the quality of its pastoral care provision. Leadership skills are promoted school-wide, with a range of enrichment activities to help students develop teamwork and creative thinking skills, as well as independence and responsibility. Students graduating from Harrow Beijing have won places at a range of universities across the world including Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 Email: enquiries@harrowbeijing.cn

International School of Beijing 北京顺义国际学校

> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺 义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)

SIBS Springboard International Blingual School 君城国际双语学院 Springboard International Bilingual School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their students to realize their full potential. They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football.

Beijing World Youth Academy 北京世青国际学校 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an international school for students of all nationalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs on its campuses conveniently located in Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School since 2001, BWYA values holistic education and seeks to give students ample opportunity to develop as globally-aware critical thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular activities are offered to further enrich student life. Graduates of BWYA have been accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB 100,000- 140,000/year.

> 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn; 8049 2450)

Western Academy of Beijing 京西国际学校 The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is a creative and innovative IB World School built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to others, can-do spirit and commitment to excellence. WAB graduates are accepted into world-class colleges and universities across the globe.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市 朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 3478/0649, admissions@ibwya.net, www.ibwya.net)

The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 The British School of Beijing, established in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993246,057. Contact our Admissions team to arrange a school tour.

> 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588)

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.org.cn)

La Maison Montessori de Pekin 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 The first bilingual French-Chinese Montessori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes children between ages 2 to 6 years old.

The kindergarten is located in a beautiful courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class activities also offered.

Yew Chung International School 耀中国际学校 Located in downtown Honglingjin Park since 1995, Yew Chung International School of Beijing (YCIS Beijing) offers a truly international curriculum for children of foreign nationals in China. The school follows the National Curriculum for England but also integrates an extensive Chinese language and culture program, allowing foreign nationals to get the best out of their time in China. YCIS Beijing is one of only five schools in China accredited by three separate accreditation organizations and has a 100 percent pass rate within the IGCSE and IB programs. In addition, YCIS Beijing is the only international school in China to receive the Cambridge Award for Excellence in Education from the University of Cambridge International Examinations. > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 www.ycis-bj.com)

Beijing Mandarin School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language, more than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. Also recognized and recommended by BBC News as one of the most professional Chinese language school.

BBA at BFSU-SolBridge 北京外国语大学国际商学院

Rutgers International Executive MBA

> 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)

> 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东 四十四条50号 Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; e-mail: lamaisonmontessoripk@gmail.com www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com

EDUCATION

LEMBA The Leadership EMBA from the University of Maryland Robert H. Smith School of Business is a unique learning experience in Beijing. The program offers world class executive and leadership education from some of the best professors the world has to offer. Every month one of the professors from the University of Maryland comes to Beijing to instruct the class for 4 consecutive days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime.

Email: beijing@rhsmith.umd.edu Tel: 8526 2528/29

> 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马 桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)

District, Beijing City International School (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering and Inspiring through Challenge and Compassion.” This non-profit, independent co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and is authorized to teach all three IB programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Programme).

Kindergartens Beanstalk International Bilingual School 青苗国际双语学校 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路 6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38 号 (8456 6019)

> E-tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, 9/F E-tower Building E数码世界9层904-905(6508 1026/1126) Guangming Hotel School (Embassy Area): Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel(near U.S Embassy) 光明饭店7层0709室 美国大使馆附近(84418391) Email: info@beijingmandarinschool.com/ www. beijingmandarinschool.com/ Skype ID: beijingmandarinschool1998

Canadian International School of Beijing 北京加拿大国际学校 Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class facility offers an internationally recognized Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen of the world.

House of Knowledge International Kinde garten (HOK) House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergarten program for children aged 10 months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as competent learners and the school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade 1 in September 2014. > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. hokschools.com)

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CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION Ascott Raffles City Beijing Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City.

Other nearby leisure attractions include Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district. > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 Ascott Raffles City Chengdu > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China Post code: 610041 Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888 Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 GDS Code: AZ Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing Somerset ZhongGuanCun is a luxury residence in Beijing that lets you enjoy the cultural depth and elegance of the city while living in the fast developing ZhongGuanCun area, only 15 minutes away from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian District Tel: 5873 0088 Lusongyuan Hotel A traditional compound of quadrangle composing of 5 courtyards which lies in the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous for its imperial living taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of nearly 170 years. The original owner of this large private house was the Grand General SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he carried out top official duties, such as defense minister. > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Address: No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com Lee Garden Service Apartments A newly renovated high-end premier living residence in a central location next to the shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Wangfujing, suites range from studios to 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) and are tastefully furnished with specially selected materials. > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区 王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, general.manager@lgapartment.com, www. lgapartment.com) FraserResidence CBD East Beijing Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free!

One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. com > Website: http:>beijing-east frasershospitality.com Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 FraserSuite CBD Beijing The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357

Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 5908 6000 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas.

Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and C will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances M etc..

Unique sky garden with golf practice field Y and barbecue area is another symbol of GTC Residence.

CM > E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com website: www.gtcresidence.com MY Tel:56756666 Lanson Place CY Lanson Place Central Park Serviced Residences, located in the Central Business CMY District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom K configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden.

The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped. > Website: www.lansonplace.com Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 Marriott Executive Apartments Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing area where the prestigious business, commercial, entertainment, and shopping center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng District Tel: 6564 9999 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District.

Tel: 8588 2888 Oakwood Residence Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100027, China reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES The Westin Executive Residences at The Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and

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close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions. > Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial Tel: 6606 8866

BUSINESS CENTER Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室

11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Pacific Century Place 北京盈科中心 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 China Central Place 北京华贸中心 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国路79号华贸中心2号楼9层 Parkview Green 北京侨福芳草地中心 15/F, Office Building A Parkview, Green, No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东大桥路8号芳草地办公楼A座 15层 China Life Tower 北京中国人寿大厦中心 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 厦5层

•Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people •Prices from RMB180 per month •Find more on Regus.cn •Tel: 400 120 1207 >> BEIJING (20 LOCATIONS) << Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 北京利星行广场 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 北京新东安广场 7/F, Office Tower 2, Sun Dong An Plaza, No.138 Wangfujing, Avenue, Dongcheng District 北京市东城区王府井大街138号新东安广场写 字楼2座7层 Zhongyu Mansion [New] 北京中宇大厦 6/F, Zhongyu Mansion, No.6 North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦6层 Diplomatic [New] 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区亮马桥外交办公大 楼E座17层 Kerry Centre - South Tower [New] 北京嘉里中心-南楼 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 Landgent Building [Coming Soon] 北京乐成中心 5/F, Block A, Landgent Center, No.20 East Middle 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang District C 北京市朝阳区东三环中路20号乐成中心A座5 层 M

China Life – West 北京中国人寿大厦-西 West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 厦5层西区 IFC 北京财源国际中心 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲8号财源国际中 心东座10层 Prosper Center 北京世纪财富中心 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang Hua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6 层 Financial St. Excel Centre 北京金融街卓著中心 12/F, Financial Street Excel, Centre, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District 北京市西城区武定侯街6号卓著国际金融中心 12层 NCI Centre 北京新华保险大厦中心 15/F, NCI Tower, No.12A Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲12号新华保险 大厦15层 Taikang Financial Tower 北京泰康金融大厦 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦 23层 Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 北京中关村欧美汇大厦 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District 北京市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大 厦7层

China World Tower 3 Y 北京国贸三期 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District CM 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 MY 15层 Lufthansa Centre CY 北京燕莎中心 C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao CMY Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 K

Kerry Centre 北京嘉里中心

CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center

CLASSIFIEDS We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and Pacific region, and our headquarters is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services.

Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, Taiyanggong, Beijing Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591 Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com Website: www.csochina.cn Tel: 86 10 64697000 Servcorp Smart businesses understand that flexibility is the future of the workplace. They choose the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow their businesses, run critical projects and give their people flexibility.

Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) Need flexible and affordable ready workspace to enhance your business or register a representative office for your temporary projects in Beijing? We have the perfect solution. Located within a Grade-A building in the popular Lufthansa Business Area, our work-spaces provide you, or your company, with the ideal business identity, and most importantly, come with the most competitive rates to minimize your cost and risks.

Please contact: > Gateway Plaza, Tower A, Suite 16D , NE 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环 北路霞光里18号佳程广场A座16D T:01084400606 M:15910782518 Cynthia LU

CAR RENTAL SERVICE Beijing First Choice Car Rental Service Co., Ltd We offer short and long term vehicle leasing services for both business and sightseeing. Our commpany could provide the latest elite, high-end vehicles such as Mercedes Benz S300, BMW S5 and more!

Contact our friendly representatives for more information.

Tel: 138 1015 6525/6434 0778 www.fccars.cn fccars@live.cn Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd Beijing Top-A Vehicle Service provides: *English -speaking driver *Long-short term leasing *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan, Van and Bus We, ES-PATS Life Group, also serves with Mandarin, housemaid, Visa, driver, driving license, vehicle registration service.

Tel: 6438 1634, 1350 123 7292, service@ expatslife.com www.expatslife.com Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd *Long/Short term leasing *Daily car service *Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car service *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat, Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito, Hyundai) and Buses *Native drivers with good English *More information please contact Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256 FAx:6504 7256 www.sxsdcar.com Email:car-rental@live.com

CABLE SERVICES Super IPTV

BEAUTY SERVICES Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun Branch Grand Opening Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s, to bring a continuous tanning effect 25% above standard machines with unique aquacool and aroma functions, we provide customers with the safest and most comfortable tanning space. > Open time:11:00-21:00 Sanlitun SOHO Branch Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun SOHO,Chaoyang District Tel: 57853711 Wangjing Branch Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Website: www.bjtanning.com Tel: 84722855 LA BELLEZA La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in Spanish. Professional hair-designers from Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.

LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, and finest products.

New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!

Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.

Website: www.labelleza.com.cn Tel: 010 8522 1626 MegaSun Tanning Salon As the only flagship store for this popular German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning will provide for each client the finest sun tanning experience.

Our center has prepared the newest functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy chamber systems, combined with easyCare optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our professional UV and tanning services. > 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO North Tower, Rm. 2302 Chaoyang District, Beijing Website: www.imegasun.com e-mail: 1019771453@qq.com Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂 Tel: 5900-2236/2238

Koala Ministorage Koala Ministorage is the first professional self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn more, visit our website www.koalaministorage.com. To make a reservation, call us toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at questions@koalaministorage.com, or visit one of our stores.

Beijing: Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC. 北京市朝阳区光华路12号数码01大厦2302 室 Shanghai: Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC. 上海市静安区延安中路841号东方海外大厦 904室

REAL ESTATE AGENTS JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION SERVICE We are one of China’s leading real estate agencies boasting an extensive database of high-end properties for rent. We have helped thousands of expatriates find their homes as well as hundreds of companies re-locate their employees. Once we have found you your ideal home we will be on hand to deal with any post move issues and our dedicated after sales team will be contactable 7 days a week to help you with any queries you have throughout your stay in our country. > For more information please contact us: Email: paulquin@joannarealestate.com.cn Website: http:>beijing.joannarealestate. com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971)

Guangzhou: Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3 Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC. 广州市中山二路3号(东山口)粤运大厦11楼 D-E室 Hong Kong: 7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong. 香港德辅道中161-167号香港贸易中心7楼 Beijing Office-TMF Group In order to enable clients benefit from the increasing globalization of the worlds economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative outsourcing services in 67 counties across the globe. With a genuine global network and qualified staff, TMF group provides an array of accounting, corporate secretarial and HR administrative outsourcing services. > Colin.Zhang@TMF-group.com Website: www.tmf-group.com CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7 Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang District Tel: 65330533-860

Replus-Benchmark “Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading real estate agencies and relocation service provider for expatriates in Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and Shenzhen.

• Residential Home Search Service • Visa Application • Commercial Office Space Search Service • Buying and Selling Property Service E-mail: marketing@replus-benchmark.com Website: www.replus-benchmark.com > A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577

FURNITURE Crossover Crossover Center Flagship Store, is mainly marketing international super home furnishing brand products.

Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau, Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini, Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over 20 international super home furnishing brands.

Our products are covered with all of fields in daily-life home furnishing, including furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and office supplies etc.

Website: www.crossovercenter.com NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C. Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123

Silk Road Travel Management Ltd. Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing Silk Road tours and other classic routes in China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized in tailor making travel packages that allow travellers to truly experience the local cultures and explore the amazing heritages. Whether you are a small group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our professional staff will tailor make the tour programme based on your needs.

Email: travel@the-silk-road.com www.the-silk-road.com TUI China An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s leading tourism group, TUI China was established in late 2003 as the first joint venture with foreign majority share in the Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters are in Beijing whilst its operations reach deep into the far corners of China. World of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and provides M.I.C.E services for renowned companies worldwide.

HOUSEKEEPING Super IPTV offers 150+ English TV Channels in HD quality, These TV channels are delivered into your televsion throuth a set top box via a broadband connection, Much like cable services back home, pick up the remote control and start watching, it's one of the best ways to get your favorite channels including HBO,CNN,BBC,ITV,FOX,AXN,E,Star World,Sky Sports,SETANTA,ESPN,EPL,Discovery,Nat Geo...

Website: www.beijingiptv.com Shopping: www.shop.superiptv.com Add Wechat ID: 'superiptv' live chat now!

Mobile: 133 716 00100 or 139 1811 9990.

CONSULTING SERVICE Harris Corporate Services Ltd Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong Kong Established since 1972 WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up Accounting & Tax Compliance Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening Serving all your business needs for investing in China. Call us for a free consultation.

Tel: (86)10-6591 8087 Mobile: 186-019-43718 Email: info.bj@harrissec.com.cn

JNY Home Service JNY Home Service was established in 2007, supplying foreign families with English speaking/non-English Speaking nannies(maids), either daily or live-in.

As a part of our service,we make sure all references and ID cards are thoroughly checked to guarantee the safety and health of your family.

Email : jieniyou@hotmail.com Mobile: 13426362833(24h) Beijing EX-PATS Service Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency and 24- hour English service. Medical and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese driving license, vehicle registration. service@expatslife.com Website: www.expatslife.com Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292

BUSINESSES! PROMOTE YOUR SERVICES TO THOUSANDS OF

STORAGE

PEOPLE EACH MONTH ON

China Self Storage Co. Ltd As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international industry standard to professionally developed Self Storage for private, family and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned, 24h access, flexible size. To learn more, visit www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make a reservation, contact 400-600-6378 info@ selfstorageinchina.com.

Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd., Shunyi District, Beijing.

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