Thats Beijing-December 2015

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4 00 8 2 0 8428 城市漫步北京英文版 12 月份国内统一刊号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press

ISSN 1672-8025

DECEMBER 2015

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Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland Food & Drink Editor Noelle Mateer Staff Reporter Dominique Wong National Life & Style Editor Marianna Cerini National Arts Editor Andrew Chin Designers Xiaoran Li, Iris Wang Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Mia Li, Wang Xuejun, Trevor Marshallsea, Zoey Zha, Jens Bakker

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EDITOR’S NOTE

DEALS

We're giving away tickets to some of

DECEMBER

the very best Beijing

REGULAR READERS MAY REMEMBER MY FUTILE SEARCH FOR A KAZAKH IN THE BUILD-

up to the 2022 Winter Olympics hosting decision (‘A Hazy Shade of Winter,’ That’s Beijing, September 2015). For those who don’t: it was a chaotic affair of closed restaurants, frustrated phone calls and, ultimately, disappointment for Almaty’s bid to host the Games. But as well as engaging in some mild sarcasm, I also implied that media relations at the Kazakhstan Embassy weren’t up to scratch. So perhaps it was no surprise when a call came through. A copy of the magazine had made its way up to the Ambassador’s office and I was invited in for a ‘talk’ with some of his attachés. It sounded a bit sinister. But despite my initial trepidation, it turns out that they were just keen to reach out and let us know about their work. Ever happy to be corrected, I can inform you that there are, in fact, a fair few Kazakhstan nationals here in Beijing (with students numbering in the thousands). The embassy also engages in a lot of work promoting Kazakh culture in China, as well as advancing bilateral cooperation between these neighboring giants (not a phrase I ever thought I’d use in an Editor’s Note). This month, the embassy’s Kazakhstan Friends Club celebrated the launch of a new book, China and Kazakhstan's Story (pictured below). Although my Chinese is slightly better than my Kazakh, neither is good enough for me to say much about the book’s contents. But you should check it out. I shall now try to forge a tenuous segue between this merry tale and the contents of this month’s magazine. Here we go: The Winter Olympics decision was one of the big stories of 2015. There were many others, and we bring you our round-up of the year from page 38. Elsewhere, Marianna Cerini sits in front of a bowl of water as she wonders whether China’s fervor for mindfulness is more about money than meditation (page 10); Dominique Wong spends an unhealthy amount of time in late-night bars exploring one of the world’s great musical phenomena – Filipino cover bands (page 30); and Noelle Mateer talks to the restaurateurs who are taking design seriously, before bringing you her characteristically innuendo-laden take on the latest openings (from page 50). Келесі жылы сізді қараңыз (see you next year),

A covert selfie from inside the Kazakhstan Embassy (left), and the Kazakhstan Friends Club's new book, China and Kazakhstan's Story (below).

parties, openings, shows and talks all month, alongside free meals, drinks, discounts and giveaways. All you have to do is scan the QR code below, follow us on WeChat and keep an eye out for your chance to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too.

Oscar Holland Editor-in-Chief

T hats_Beijing t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s B e i j i n g facebook .com/ T hatsBeijing

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QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“Weibo is dead. Now it’s just a place for celebrities to show off how happy they are” Liz Carter, author and journalist, in our review of 2015, page 60

6 CIT Y

8 THE NAME GAME Chinese artist reveals he’s actually a Frenchman 9 CONFUCIAN COUNSEL Marital woes – should I stay or should I go?

15 WORD ON THE STREET The dark side of online shopping addiction

16 LIFE & ST YLE

22 T H AT’S PR ESEN T S... The ultimate gift guide for the festive season 20 PORTR AIT OF CHINA Up close and personal with a Shanxi cook

24 SCENE AND HEARD Cult yoga brand Lululemon sets up shop

26 AR TS

28 SHOOT TO SCORE We meet Wuhan indie rockers Chinese Football

3 4 ICE, ICE, BA BY Icelandic group múm are feeling chill 35 YEAR OF THE GOOSE A novel from the winner of our flash fiction competition

5 0 E AT & D R I N K 55 MIFA N/M A FA N Is the rice worth the hassle at these new openings?

56 SN A CK AT TA CK Laobeijing treats get the photo treatment 58 SHEER LUNAR-CY New restaurant Moon Lamb Restaurant 4 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

THE WRAP

10 HELP YOURSELF

What’s behind the meditation craze sweeping China?

52 WINE & DINE… & DESIGN Good design takes dining to a whole new level

30 BEHIND THE COVERS We explore life in one of Beijing’s Filipino cover bands W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 5

THE BUZZ A LU N G F U L Over 1,500 people form a giant pattern of a pair of lungs in Beijing Garden Expo Park, smashing the Guinness World Record for the largest human image of an organ. Ironically, the AQI level that day was ‘extremely hazardous’ :/

UNDERGROUND CRIMINALS

There are murderers, drug dealers, rapists, and then there are… illegal basement builders. Beijing authorities recently discovered the city’s largest illegal basement to date in Dongcheng’s Shaluo Hutong. The owner, Li, was just hoping to park some cars in it. Over 100 of them, that is – Li runs a car-rental company, and was planning on using his illegal basement as a garage. But rather than going down the legal construction route, he hired part-time workers to build from midnight until the early morning, and had them use shovels rather than power tools, so as to make less noise. The result is a garage that’s 700sqm and three floors deep. And no, you can’t park your bike there, sorry. 6 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

RANDOM NUMBER

…is the amount of time it took, in hours, to replace an entire overpass at Sanyuanqiao. Last month the Sanyuanqiao cloverleaf junction closed for just one weekend as planners reinforced the structure without paralyzing traffic flow (well not too much of it, anyway). Workers used global- and laser-positioning systems – and robots – to get the new structure in place by midday Sunday. Despite not completing the work in a single day as initially planned (the 30-yearold bridge’s central beams were a little worse for wear, requiring extra dismantling work), it was still an impressive feat. Time-lapses of the construction can be found online.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

SOMETHING FISHY

AS K A L AO B E I J I N G

Beijing Aquarium welcomed a new addition last month, in the form of a giant wild Chinese sturgeon. Measuring over three meters long, the sturgeon was found injured at the Yangtze River Basin after being mistakenly caught by a fisherman. It has since undergone treatment at the aquarium, where it will remain for further care. The species is the largest of its kind found in the past 20 years, and its status as ‘critically endangered’ affords it strict protection under Chinese law. Bonus fact: the sturgeon in question is an egg-bearing female, a big win for species preservation.

We met Zang, 52, outside Ginza Mall in Dongzhimen

Q U OT E O F T H E M O N T H

"In the war between smog and man, have the government, companies and the public really made efforts in the same direction?" Environmental-regulations-official-turnednovelist Li Chunyuan asks this tough question in his newly released book, The Conundrum of Smog. Along with its prequel Smog is Coming, the novel is a thriller about a hypothetical pollution crisis in the (nottoo-distant) future. While both have been met with success, Li still keeps his day job as deputy director of the Environment Protection Bureau of Langfang, Hebei.

What we r e mem o ra b t h e m o s t l e ev of 20 en 1 f o r C 5 f o r yo u t s hina? and

It was a pretty eventful year for me because my husband and I retired. Now, during our spare time we sell boxed lunches to workers and college students. This job makes me feel very enthusiastic and satisfied. Right now, the delivery time has just passed so I'm getting ready to go home and rest. Since our retirement, my husband and I are like an old married couple and it’s easy to get bored. Every day my husband does the same thing – gets up, eats and maybe goes to the store to buy some things – but I am more anxious and like to keep active. Doing this job also means I can help young white-collar office workers by delivering their hometown meals. These people have left their homes, and their parents are no longer by their sides, so this service makes them feel very happy. It’s very fulfilling to see this. Who were the heroes or villains of 2015? To be honest, I pay limited attention to the news. But I do feel that Xi Jinping has done well this year. He’s done some really practical things that will benefit the people of China, like improving China’s international relations, for example. In my opinion, this is really the biggest news of the year: China has been much friendlier with other countries. The more agreeable the country is, the better. Mutually friendly relations can result in increased tourism, which would be wonderful! Peace is ideal. But if the country has difficulties, we will have the money to keep up our domestic output. I feel that next year will certainly be better, for me personally and China as a whole. As every year passes, life improves. We are all living much better now compared to the past. As told to Dominique Wong W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7

CI T Y | TA LES

TALES OF THE CITY

So who is Tao Hongjing? To some, he is a fifth century Chinese philosopher and by all accounts a pretty funny guy. To others, he is the artist behind 10 years’ worth of exhibitions in China. But the latter, it transpires, wasn’t as it seemed. Because after a decade of deception, Tao Hongjing was revealed to be the alter ego of French artist Alexandre Ouiary. The Frenchman decided to use a pseudonym after struggling to gain recognition in a market dominated by foreign demand for Chinese art. Last month, Tao exposed his true identity in a move that neatly coincided with his final exhibition, showing at Red Gate Gallery until early December. Aptly titled ‘Death is Going Home,’ the exhibition is, according to press materials, “a curated show of Tao’s work throughout the ten years of his lifetime, where he reflects on money, fame and life.” “When I arrived [15 years ago] I used my real name,” he told us. “One Chinese guy really appreciated my work so he helped me with a couple of solo shows. We had interest but it was difficult because it was mostly foreign collectors buying Chinese art. I started to imagine the idea of creating a Chinese identity and then [he] said to me, Yeah Alex, you should be Chinese! So I started using the name and made artwork that reflected Chinese culture, incorporating my own view of changes that were happening.” While the artworks that Ouiary produces under his real name are mostly installations or conceptual pieces, Tao Hongjing leaned more towards pop (“Classical art which expressed a modern idea”). He proved popular. 8 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

“People were interested – whether foreign or Chinese – because the art spoke about China, so it was easy for people to relate. And also in terms of form, people were appreciative.” Reports claim that the decision was also quite profitable, though Ouiary is quick to point out that the art produced under both his names has grown in value. “The value of your artwork increases because you sell more or because you do more exhibitions. I’ve been working for 15 years, so of course it’s higher.” The alias wasn’t a complete secret, with a few industry insiders aware of the ruse. As Ouiary explains: “It’s not something you can do alone. Gallery owners believed in and understood the concept. They wanted to help.” “The Chinese really appreciate it. At one of my shows in Shanghai, the gallery owner introduced me as Tao, so everyone in the gallery could see me. There was a moment of surprise. All the Chinese people were curious and asked a lot of questions.” Since the big reveal, Ouiary says he’s received a positive, if bemused, reaction. But seeing as there is no time limit to such deception, why stop now? “This is the final exhibition [under Tao Hongjing] because I came to the end of my concept. It’s the end of an idea,” said Ouiary, who will continue to produce artwork under his given name. Throughout history, figures in the arts have used pseudonyms for a multitude of reasons. Mary Anne Evans wrote as George Eliot in the hope that a male name would be taken more seriously. JK Rowling published

as Robert Galbraith to avoid the hype associated with her fame. The artist known as Banksy is avoiding arrest. While assuming a name that implies a different ethnicity may be less common (or revealed less often, at least), Ouiary is not the first. When Michael Derrick Hudson exposed himself as the poet Yi-Fen Chou earlier this year, there was uproar. The American admitted that he used the nom de plume as an explicit strategy for ‘placing’ poems, after his original poem, sent under his real name, was rejected multiple times. It worked. The poem ‘The Bees, the Flowers, Jesus, Ancient Tigers, Poseidon, Adam and Eve,’ was chosen as a selection in Best American Poetry 2015. Commentators accused him of racism. They claimed he inversely used white privilege to take advantage of affirmative action. This may be true, but his success may also be more telling of the quality of the poem itself. In Ouiary’s case, however, challenging perceptions was the primary motivation. The Tao alter ego was artistically distinct from Alexandre Ouiary, after all. “Every foreigner in China also has a Chinese name. People weren’t surprised about me having a Chinese name and because it is a real Chinese name [rather than a phonetic-sounding one], it seems to go deeper into the culture. I tried to create a dialogue between others and myself. “Tao Hongjing was a philosopher and a comic. There’s a little joke behind [it] all,” he concludes. Dominique Wong

W.W. C . D . | C I T Y

I have been married for two years but it’s becoming clear that my wife and I are very different people. We married after a short period of dating, due to pressure from both of our parents (we are both 30 years old), without really knowing each other. My wife recently told me she does not want children, ever. But before we married she gave no indication that she felt this way. We’d even spoken about our mutual plans to have a baby. I cannot accept the idea of not having a child in the future and am considering leaving my wife, even though it would devastate both of our families.

Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom

WHAT WOULD CONFUCIUS DO

Hello friend. The standards of modern society dictate selfcenteredness and love as the highest standards. Therefore, if you want a divorce, you have already established several good reasons. If your wife agrees, there is no problem or need for discussion. However, I prefer other solutions. Chinese tradition, and especially Confucian thought, emphasizes marriage and family. In your situation, the existence of sufficient grounds for divorce is not the problem. The decision is whether it’s justified or not. So what happens if you change your perspective and consider the opposite situation – staying together? Confucius said: “Those whose strength is not enough give up halfway. You haven’t begun to walk yet” (Analects, 6:12). The Chinese idiom bantuerfei (to give up halfway) also applies. Confucius emphasizes the importance of meeting people in the middle; and that if you don’t first try to

understand them, you will inevitably draw incorrect conclusions. So, if you stay together and work toward building your marriage, perhaps it will take a turn for the better. You may begin to understand each other. Mutual tolerance will develop, and love will grow in the meantime. Plus, given that you’ve only been married for a relatively short time, your wife’s desire to remain childless may also change. As you chose to ask me about whether you should divorce your wife, I can tell that you don’t make hasty decisions. You must be of a considerate and earnest character. If you can see the importance of trying to understand people’s choices, you will benefit. Wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing Language and

Culture University, specializing in Chinese culture. His most recent book is entitled Teaching Methods of

Chinese Language and Traditional Culture . Send him your ethical dilemma via bjeditor@urbanatomy.com

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THE PURSUIT OF

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Mindfulness, Meditation and Money in Modern China

ria

r Ce

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

“Breathe. Be Aware. Find your purpose.” Master Wang repeats the mantra over and over again as I sit cross-legged at his Live Zen Center on a chilly Thursday evening in Beijing. On the floor in the middle of the room is a candle. Next to it, a still bowl of water. Later in the lesson, we’ll focus on both (the water isn’t actually still, I am to learn, but constantly changing, like the universe; the candle too, represents change, as well as being a token of the present). But for now, the Zen master, my two fellow meditation students and I have our eyes closed, trying to find the ‘purpose’ that Master Wang keeps alluding to. I can’t speak for my classmates, but I am struggling. Far from discovering purpose, I am, to be perfectly blunt, bored. But while the session might not cut it for me, meditation is exploding in popularity. Classes now come in all flavors: mindfulness-based stress reduction, transcendental meditation and many more. From therapy couches to Silicon Valley (Google offers an internal course called “search inside yourself,” while eBay offices have dedicated meditation rooms), everyone seems to be jumping on the Zen-wagon. In China too, meditation schools, courses and ‘experiences’ have mushroomed, particularly in firsttier cities. But with the advent of wellbeing apps, you no longer need to commit to full-on classes. Since launching in 2010, meditation app Headspace has been downloaded by three million users in 150 countries, including China, at roughly RMB80 a month. Adult coloring books – which have been linked to easing mental pain and the ability to focus on the present – have also become a huge fad around the world. After its China release in June, adultcoloring title Secret Garden sold three million copies in three months, with Beijing dubbed the “adult coloring-in capital of the world” by its publisher. Among the buzzwords of modern wellbeing, ‘mindfulness’ is now one of the most common. The practice

promotes self-improvement by encouraging people to pay more attention to the present, says Fionn Wright, a lifestyle coach at Octave Living Room, Shanghai’s first holistic urban wellbeing center, which opened its doors in October. “Mindfulness is a way for people to get back in touch with their inner values and have a more organic approach to life. It’s a way to improve and better understand the world,” he explains. “We are all conditioned by society, accepted norms and rules in the way we see things. Mindfulness helps us understand what it is that we’re actually seeing, what we are actually thinking. It’s an empowering tool – not a set direction everyone should follow but, rather, a technique which differs from person to person.” With life in today’s China wrought with stress, competitiveness and soaring individualism, it’s easy to see why so many have embraced the practice. We all want to be different. We are 20 pounds overweight; we are in debt; we can’t believe we slept with that person; we can’t believe we didn’t. We want to change ourselves, yet find it incredibly hard to do so alone. Unlike other forms of meditation, mindfulness comes across as a viable, balanced method of selfdevelopment. It’s not preachy – well, not excessively so – nor does it rely on spirituality or divine intervention. Mindfulness purports to be about your body and mind, and offers a way to remove them from the stresses of daily life. Although re-appropriated by the West – the US in particular – the concept originates from Buddhism. The word ‘mindfulness’ was originally a synonym for ‘attention’ in the 16th century, but was given its current meaning in 1881

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by a British magistrate living in colonial Sri Lanka. It is an approximate translation of the Buddhist notion of sati, the first of seven factors of enlightenment. Although not exactly accurate (a more precise translation for sati would be ‘memory of the present’), the definition stuck. A hundred years later, as 1960s American counterculture began embracing Eastern influences, mindfulness became an American brand. In the 1970s, a molecular biologist in New England and a long-time meditator in the Zen Buddhist tradition, Jon Kabat-Zinn, stripped away notions of enlightenment and religious underpinnings from the term. Instead, he defined ‘mindfulness’ as “the awareness that arises through paying attention on purpose in the present moment, and non-judgmentally.” He created the Center for Mindfulness in Medicine at the University of Massachusetts medical school, helping the mainstream popularization of mindfulness. But now, decades later, this Western practice with Buddhist characteristics is making its way back to Asia. Secular China is its main stronghold in the continent, and the removal of religious connotations has made it particularly appealing to audiences here, argues Eric C. Hendricks, a post-doctorate researcher in sociology at Peking University and Utrecht University whose work focuses on self-help. “Mindfulness – some aspects of it in particular – could be

seen as a new-age extension of the self-help movement, which is [already] a huge industry in China,” he says. “Many mindfulness gurus talk about the competitive advantage of meditation, presenting the practice as a way to get ahead in life. Those teachings have little to do with the Buddhist ethics, of course, but they resonate really well with people in China.” The country is indeed infatuated with self-help, although this is a relatively recent phenomenon. The Chinese term for the ‘selfhelp’ – 心灵鸡汤 (xinling jitang), or ‘chicken soup for the soul’ – only emerged in the 1990s alongside the publication of the well-known self-help book series of the same name, the translations of which were incredibly well-received in China. The subsequent rise of self-help in modern Chinese culture has been nothing short of spectacular. Today, ‘chicken soup’ has developed a number of its own subgenres: motivational chicken soup, women’s chicken soup and trauma chicken soup. According to Hendricks, the genre forms a substantial portion of the publishing industry and mass media. Although the exact size of the Chinese market for self-

FE AT URE | CI T Y

" T H E B O O M O F T H E S E L F - H E L P M OV E M E N T I S A D I R E C T C O N S E Q U E N C E O F T H E I D E O LO G I C A L A N D S P I R I T UA L VAC U U M L E F T BY T H E E N D O F M AO I S T S O C I A L I S M . P E O P L E A R E S T R U G G L I N G TO C O M E TO T E R M S W I T H T H E S H I F T S I N S O C I E T Y – T H E I R W E A LT H A N D T H E L AC K O F A R E L I G I O U S G U I DA N C E ”

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help books is unknown, ‘supplementary educational books,’ of which self-help is a major component, account for 34 percent of the book market – roughly RMB18.2 billion a year. Chinese self-help gurus have become celebrities in their own right, appearing on TV and drawing huge crowds to workshops and lectures, which often charge hefty admission fees. The sector’s popularity in China is, Hendricks argues, a product of its time. “The boom of the self-help movement is a direct consequence of the ideological and spiritual vacuum left by the end of Maoist socialism,” he says. “Many Chinese people, from lower to middle and upper classes, are struggling to come to terms with the shifts in society – their wealth and the lack of a religious guidance. This explains why self-help has entered the realm of both the high- and low-brow, and it’s ubiquitous in every medium. People in China nurture the romantic idea that the self can be helped, because they were raised in an environment that didn’t offer them such assurance.” Yet, mindfulness seems to offer that very assurance. In its most authentic form, research suggests that some techniques can provide significant psychological and physiological benefits. Mindfulness training has been shown to reduce the risk of relapse in recurrent depression by a third – an encouraging datum considering the World Health Organization has warned that mental health problems will become the biggest burden of disease in developed countries by 2030. A recent meta-analysis of 209 studies concluded that interventions based on mindfulness showed “large and clinically significant effects” in treating anxiety and depression – effects, crucially, that were maintained through follow-up sessions. If practiced with real conviction, one hour of meditation, like the Zen workshop I undertook at the Live Zen Center, can indeed help reduce stress. As the Shanghai lifestyle coach, Wright, tells me: “people just need to find what works for them.” And so, after the breathing, the search for Master Wang’s purpose and my failed attempt to focus on the candle, I sit down with Wright at Octave for one-on-one mindfulness practice. Housed in a modern building of glass, wood and concrete in the heart of Shanghai’s former French Concession, the project is an ambitious one. The brainchild of businessman and entrepreneur Chavalit Frederick Tsao and his brother Calvin, the center offers integrated programs that focus on physical health, mind-body alignment, thriving relationships and life purpose. Its core philosophy is to help people ‘actualize their possibilities’ – which sounds a little too hippie for me – but the courses are refreshingly free of new-age mumbo jumbo. They span yoga, weight management, family 1 4 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

therapy, mind coaching, life coaching and acupuncture, forming what the center calls a ‘Mindful Journey Program.’ Wright begins by asking me to focus on the first thing that comes to mind, and to be aware of the physical feeling it triggers. Countless visions follow – imaginary lists, boxes to tick, hypothetical situations. But, crucially, I’m the one leading the session. Wright simply encourages me to talk, pay attention and link my trains of thought to the tension gathered around specific areas of my body.

“AT O N E P O I N T WE’RE ASKED TO ‘ T H A N K O U R K N E E S ’ A N D ‘ PAY R E S P E C T TO O U R EYES'” This form of meditation is far from the bliss one might imagine. Instead of clearing the mind, it accepts thoughts and feelings without following them; letting them exist while returning again and again to breathing. The experience is not exactly comfortable, but it makes me feel better: less anxious, less angry. In the weeks that follow, Wright sporadically contacts me to check how I am doing (in a genuine rather than sanctimonious way). He reminds me to focus on myself and the ‘list’ of things that cause me stress, which comes as a welcome prompt in my day. With time, I find myself becoming more mindful of my feelings. I am, by nature, averse to proselytizing, but I begin to see how this can be so helpful to many. Mindfulness is not a catechism, an ideology, a belief system, a technique or a philosophy. It is a way of being, on your own terms, and I can get on board with that. But whether this reflects the wider mindfulness industry is a different matter. While Octave’s approach is therapeutic, the HSP Body and Brain Training Center, a mindfulness ‘academy’ from South Korea (also recently opened in Shanghai), offers something altogether different. Standing for ‘happiness,’ ‘smile’ and ‘peace,’ HSP’s courses and workshops aim to promote these three things through integrated exercise for body and mind. The method – also known as Dahn Yoga – was started by South Korean educator Ilchee Lee in 1985 and is now found in thousands of centers worldwide. Nora Lee, the Shanghai

school’s chief practitioner, tells me that it’s an educational and experiential approach to mindfulness that blends ancient Eastern philosophy with modern sport science, “with the intent to unlock your natural brain potential.” I must concede she’s absolutely right on the experiential part: the one-hour session is a mix of high-intensity exercises resembling yoga and martial arts, stretches and breathing techniques. It’s exhausting, in a good way, although at times a little odd (at one point we’re asked to ‘thank our knees’ and ‘pay respect to our eyes’). But overall, an energetic session. The educational aspect emerges once I sit with Lee to discuss signing up for a batch of lessons (which I don’t follow through with). “The routines we do follow five steps,” she explains. “We first want to awaken your body. Step two is to unlock your brain and help you work on yourself. Learning to release negative emotions comes after that, and then we teach about integrating the mind to reach your goals. This takes three to six months. Finally, step five is brain mastering, which is a lifetime condition.” Although I’d enjoyed the session, this sales pitch makes me a little wary of the HSP approach. The five steps (and the three- to six-month timeline) all sound a little too forced. Lee keeps talking about the “positive energy” that HSP will help me release. Maybe she’s right, but mostly it feels like she’s trying to sell me a package, a quick fix for eternal happiness. And this is the very problem with the marketization of mindfulness. What has buying six months of classes got to do with the ancient art of meditation? And what does going into a meditative workshop in pricey Lululemon gear have in common with the Buddhist ethic of non-attachment to material goods? The man who redefined the term in the 1970s, Kabat-Zinn, recently warned: “a sort of superficial ‘McMindfulness’ is taking over, which ignores the ethical foundations of the meditative practices and traditions from which mindfulness has emerged, and divorces it from its profoundly transformative potential.” He’s almost certainly right. While I probably can’t afford to go to Octave every week, Wright’s approach was effective because it made me self-aware in a practical, simple way, devoid of any props – no staring at candles or thanking my body parts. But the apps, the training centers, the coloring books – they are all trends that the mindfulness industry has planted its flag on. Sitting still and relaxing for a while might certainly do some good. But can’t we just learn to be more mindful by simply considering and really thinking about the word? Do we need tools or classes to find inner happiness? █

C H I N E S E U R B A N D I CFTEI OA N T UA R EY | C I T Y

Duoshoudang \Duòshŏudăng\ 剁手党 n. people who are addicted to online shopping and vow repeatedly to quit but can’t. I hate all the duoshoudang in my office. I just spent three hours signing for their non-stop Kuaidi deliveries.

How many packages do these people get each day?

One duoshoudang in marketing got 34 packages yesterday.

I suspect she’ll have to cut her own hands off soon. Either that or I’ll do it for her.

If online shopping is your vice, post-Singles'-Day December is your rock bottom. Among the worst affected are the duoshoudang. Meaning ‘a party whose members vow to cut their own hands off,’ duoshoudang are the breed of online addicts who, as long as they have hands, won’t stop clicking the ‘buy now’ button. They are easy to identify – they’re the ones who appeared

euphorically happy last month, yet now have no money for food and are contemplating cutting off their hands. While the exact size of the duoshoudang party is unknown, it is estimated to be in the millions. Every night, they return from work and sit in front of the computer, ignoring their estranged lovers to focus on online shopping instead. The duoshoudang search diligently for coupons. They keep multiple tabs open to compare prices. They read pagelong reviews. They enter creditcard details in a subconscious act of muscle memory. They shop to celebrate; they shop to console. They believe that ‘owning’ equals ‘living.’ I shop, therefore I am. Some say the Internet was invented for porn, built on the assumption that sex is the one thing that everyone craves the most. But that assertion no longer rings true. The Internet was actually invented for shopping, because the desire to

own material goods has already replaced the desire for carnal pleasure. In fact, a famous saying of duoshoudang is: “Orgasms last five seconds, but the high of owning a designer handbag lasts at least five months.” Cutting off one’s hand may sound dramatic, but the term has roots in reality. Three years ago, a Zhejiang woman surnamed Zhang, almost cut off her hand after a heated marital row over her online shopping addiction. Ms. Zhang reportedly protested: “You want me to cut my hand off? Because I will!” She was later rushed to hospital where doctors were able to reattach her severed thumb. Let that be a warning. The Internet is a store that never closes. It’s always ready for our custom, so there will always be hands that have gotta go. By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in

Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

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S P OT L I G H T

Jessica Rapp, founder of Thrift and flea market organizer

— For those who don’t know, what is Thrift? Thrift is an ongoing project I started in the spring of 2014 to bring secondhand shopping culture to Beijing. I went to college in a small town and went thrifting almost every weekend because there was no other option. I missed that a lot when I moved here – so many of the vintage stores were too expensive and didn't have the surprising variety that thrift stores have. There were already a > few clothing swaps and markets, but I wanted to create an ongoing system where people could drop off old clothes and know that they were going somewhere special, either to charities around China or back into a Thrift pop-up where someone else would make the clothes theirs. — How does it work and how can people get involved? I'm trying to build up a weekly flea market alongside Farm to Neighbors, whose founder Erica Huang has been wonderful enough to let me take part since the early stages of my own pop-up shop. I'm always looking for volunteers to help sell, organize and get involved. Sales from the clothes go to different projects. Donations are of course always great as well – just drop by any Farm to Neighbors Farmers and Flea Market at the Grand Summit. — Was it a challenge to start up your own monthly flea market? When I started The Beijing Flea Market at COV E T

The Bookworm, I sought advice from my friend, jewelry designer Yi Zhou. We rounded up some of our friends to create the first one, which featured a lot of secondhand items priced at RMB100 and under. But Beijing has a lot of talented independent designers too, so I started creating more space for them. The lead-up to the market is definitely challenging – I barely sleep the week ahead of it. You have to make sure you haven't overfilled the space and get the word out so that people come. There are so many markets and Saturday events now, that you really owe it to your sellers to make sure people are there to see their products. — Your style in a nutshell. I love patterns! My uniform for a while was button-up blouses with quirky motifs and colors that I found in secondhand or vintage shops around China. My closet is a bit American-Apparel-meets-grandma. — Favorite shops in town? I really love Triple Major, although I can only afford to wistfully gaze at things there. Delia on Wudaoying Hutong is my number-one pick for vintage because the owners are so nice, and the shop is so well curated and decorated. If I'm confined to my computer

PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

S T YLE RADAR

LIFE & STYLE

at work, then I love browsing Yetang. I usually come out with way more than I actually intended to buy. — Sanlitun or Gulou? That's always a tough one. I started my Beijing adventure in a Gulou apartment and then a hutong flat, so it will always have a special place in my heart. Now I live in Sanlitun and I love it for its convenience. But I definitely miss Saturday mornings wandering around the different vintage shops on Gulou Dongdajie. Follow Jessica on Instagram at @jrappp and contact her on WeChat at @jmrapp19.

R Factory x Star Wars After Luke Skywalker appeared on Rodarte’s catwalk last year, The Force began a fashion surge that’s set to keep soaring with the release of the saga’s latest installment this month. In Beijing, you can channel your inner geek chic with indie label R Factory’s Star Wars-themed capsule collection of totes, shoes and accessories. Pieces span futuristic prints, starry designs, icons of characters like Darth Vader and BB-8, and clever juxtapositions of vibrant, light colors and dark leather details (get it?). Prices start at around RMB228 for a Darth Vader luggage tag and RMB398 for a C-3PO wallet. For RMB1,280 you can get yourself shoulder bag emblazoned with “I Am Your Father” and RMB3,480 will get you some seriously bold and Force-inspired ankle boots. Not exactly cheap, but for Star Wars-fan fashionistas, that should be just fine. 27 Xinsi Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区辛寺胡同 27 号 (call 87 184 060 to book an appointment), or contact R Factory on WeChat at @RFACTORY2012

1 6 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Ed i t e d by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i /

MADE IN CHINA

UNDER THE LENS

Wacky Prints

Gucci

Children in a snowstorm, sketched portraits of friends and familiar scenes of collectivity spanning shuttlecock players, couples dancing and old folks exercising. Vina Huang’s illustrations are beautiful bits of everyday Beijing life. The Guangdong-born graduate of Shantou Arts and Crafts School is a freelance illustrator and artist whose prints we are crushing hard for. From child-like pencil strokes to pop silhouettes, each and every piece is vibrant and visually compelling, telling stories that any Beijinger can relate to. Huang’s overall aesthetic feels fresh and contemporary, and although she works on commission too, we find her portfolio impossible to tire of. Illustrations range RMB350-3,500. Find her

at markets around town or on WeChat at @ huang8511 or by phone (136 9368 3142).

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

Gucci seems to have a thing for China – Shanghai, specifically. The Italian fashion house opened its first restaurant in the mainland earlier this year, right in the heart of our swanky sister city and, last month, started dipping its toes into artistic territory. The label unveiled the exhibition ‘No Longer / Not yet’ at Shanghai’s Minsheng Art Museum. The show explores the elusive nature of the present moment with the query: ‘What is contemporary?’ That, in a nutshell, translates into a series of rooms featuring Gucci-inspired works by participating artists including Beijing-based multimedia artist Cao Fei, photographer Glen Luchford, American sculptor Rachel Feinstein and Neo-conceptual artist Jenny Holzer. The brainchild of Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele and Fashion journalist Katie Grand, the showcase exudes style, be it in the tapestries, floorboards or the art itself. A well-planned marketing ploy, no doubt, but at least it’s an interesting one – which is more than can be said for the restaurant. ‘No Longer / Not yet’ runs till December 16 at the Minsheng Art Museum in Shanghai. www.minshengart.com

OV E R H E A R D

“ I F T H I S S I N G L E S ' D AY I S T H E E X C U S E Y O U ’ V E B E E N W A I T I N G F O R T O S P O I L Y O U R S E L F W I T H A L I T T L E O N L I N E S H O P P I N G , T H E N I M U S T S AY I ’ M M O R E T H A N A L I T T L E J E A LO U S . H E R E AT T H E W H I T E H O U S E , T H E R E A R E S O M A N Y F I R E W A L L S B LO C K I N G M E F R O M S H O P P I N G O N L I N E T H AT N OT E V E N T H E P R E S I D E N T W I L L B E A B L E T O T A K E A DV A N T AG E O F T H O S E A M A Z I N G D E A L S Y O U ’ L L S E E O N L I N E D U R I N G T H I S H O L I D AY “ President Frank J. Underwood ushers in Singles' Day last month. One of China’s most lucrative ‘holidays’ (which is characterized by huge discounts and offers for lonely souls, or just anybody, really) was taken to a whole new level as Alibaba rang in the day with a star-studded gala at Beijing’s Water Cube. The event included a two-minute video appearance by Kevin Spacey, who plays the scheming politician Underwood (in House of Cards), in which he suggests that China’s online shoppers take advantage of the holiday to buy a range of items spanning glasses, burner phones and trench coats. He also quoted Alibaba Executive Chairman Jack Ma, saying: “Today is hard. Tomorrow will be worse. But the day after tomorrow will be sunshine.” The greatest ad ever aired? Possibly.

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"Minstrel " Scarf (Kang Xi's Travel) RMB 3,300

"Clouds" Scarf RMB 3,300

"Minstrel " Scarf (Kang Xi's Travel) RMB 3,300

ust as the seasons pass, bringing change and new beginnings, so do the garments we wear. For Shang Xia, China’s first high-end lifestyle brand, this means novelty motifs and hues this winter. Shifting away from the delicate, ethereal and cloudinspired motifs of spring/summer, the label’s current collection is all about bold lines and rich colors, with each design inspired by the elements that we associate with this time of year. The overall selection speaks of warmth and comfort, without sacrificing style and the brand’s long-established elegance. Staying true to Shang Xia’s philosophy of seamlessly integrating traditional Chinese craftsmanship with contemporary details, the latest winter offerings are both modern and timeless, urban and elegant. Each piece features a contemporary aesthetic weaved through the time-honored elegance of Chinese style. The label’s ‘Sun & Moon’ collection includes the perfect reversible coat and poncho – a Shang Xia take on the classic Han-style shenyi gown in warm, sunny tones that will brighten up even the gloomiest of days. They are made of the highest quality cashmere and wool and, paired with the right accessories, can easily be transformed to suit any occasion, whether the sun or moon is in the sky. Among the accessories, a series of cashmere felt pouches in a plethora of earthy hues make the perfect winter bag, blending attitude with evergreen sophistication. With themes deeply rooted in Asian culture, and an eye for luxurious comfort, this winter collection is perfect for fashion-savvy urbanites with style and function their top priorities. Try for yourself: wrap up in the time-tested craftsmanship of luxurious silks, wools and cashmeres of Shang Xia and head out the door: today is yours for the taking.

"Sculpture" Overcoat RMB 42,000

"Sculpture" Poncho RMB 25,000

"Heqi" Dress RMB 9,800

"Satis-feet" Women's shoes RMB 3,600

"One" Pants RMB 4,800

"Lan Yue" Embroidered cashmere felt handbag RMB 11,800 "Sculpture" Shawl RMB 12,000

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LIFE & ST YLE | ADVERTORIAL

BY VIRGINIA WERNER Find these items at Shang Xia store in SB107B, B1 China World Mall, China World Trade Center, 1 Jianguomen Waidajie, Chaoyang 建国门外大街1号中国国际贸易中心国贸商城地下一层第SB107B号 (6505 7358)

"Sun & Moon" Overcoat RMB 9,800

"Lan Yue" Cashmere felt Pouch RMB 8,800 W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 1 9

L I F E & S T Y L E | P. F EOA. TCU. R E

Z h a o X i a oy u n | 2 3

PORTRAIT OF CHINA wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

The restaurant provides my accommodation. I live with a few other kitchen boys. It’s a pretty good deal, considering I get to stay in Sanlitun.

p h ot o by Ho l l y L i

I am from Shanxi. I love living in Beijing – I came here to work as a chef and I am having a great time. I’m in the kitchen a lot, but when I have a bit of free time, I usually like to be on my phone, talking to my friends on WeChat or playing games.

I’d like to own my own business one day. I miss home, so maybe I’d open something there. 2 0 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

L I F E & S T Y L E | FS EH AOTPUPRI N EG

Fantasy Fanatic handmade Dancing Granny badge, RMB88. > shop117127887.taobao.com, www. zhangliangray.com

Le Mini Macaron DIY gel manicure kit, RMB265. > www.lanecrawford.com.cn

Diptyque holiday 2015 candles, RMB950. > Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Bldg 6, unit S6-19A, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区 6 号楼一层 S619A 单元 (www.1010apothecary.com.cn)

Yazbukey lipstick necklace, RMB1,960. > ooakselect.taobao.com

Peter Jensen x Fashionary RMB188. > www.10corsocomo.cn

Alice+Olivia x Lane Crawford Stacey mug, RMB190. > www.lanecrawford.com.cn

NO TIME LIKE THE PRESENT That’s Christmas Gift Guide by M a r i a n n a C e r i n i

Charles Philip Lizzette slipper, RMB1,200. > www.charlesphilipshanghai.com

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Chamberlain Jones silk tie, RMB450. > www.youngchineseblood.com

HAY Kaleido trays RMB99-469. > www.sanlipop.com

Chamberlain waterproof tote bag, RMB235. > www.youngchineseblood.com

GoPro Hero4 Silver RMB2,998. > www.apple.com.cn

Bruichladdich Classic Laddie, RMB520. > www.aiwhisky.com

Slice up the pumpkin pie. Pour the mulled wine. Whip up that boozy eggnog you know you love. It’s Christmas time again. Which also means it’s gift season. But what to buy the Beijinger who has everything? Enter our yearly gift guide. Whether you're shopping on a budget or want to splurge, we’ve put together enough ideas to cover everyone on your list – nerds, hipsters, fashionistas, moms, you name it. We’ve made your Christmas shopping a total cinch, so you’re welcome. Now, let’s get some more of that mulled wine…

BB-8 App enabled droid RMB1,198. > www.apple.com.cn

Fornasetti teapot, RMB5,800. > www.10corsocomo.cn

Secret Garden coloring book, RMB42. > world.tmall.com/item/

Penguin passport holder, RMB128. > www.penguin.com.cn, boogend. world.taobao.com

TCA coasters, RMB30 each (choose from over 38 designs). > www.ThisCityArt.com

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 3

L I F E & S T Y L E | FA ER AR TI VUARLES

SCENE & HEARD wo rd s by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

1 1

G U O P E I X M AC

Pair one of China’s most esteemed haute couturiers with one of world’s hippest, freshest and boldest makeup companies and you get a pretty rad collaboration like Guo Pei x Mac. Inspired by what Pei has called her “garden of the soul,” the Beijing fashion doyenne has created a 16-piece line of gorgeous cosmetics that form an excellent collector’s edition. The overall palette shows some unusual hues, chosen by the designer as a reminder of “the universe and our world,” but that shouldn’t be surprising given Pei’s aesthetic grandeur. The range includes quads of eye shadow in deep blues and honeyed neutrals; rich lipsticks in creamy shades of pink and coral, bright red and luscious nude; plus eyeliners, blushes and powders in jewel tones punctuated by deep graphite. What really makes this cooperation stand out, however, is its presentation: each item is housed in fabric-wrapped packaging (hand-sketched by Pei herself) and comes shrouded in exotic gold and yellow floral prints. Beautiful and exquisitely crafted, this line may surpass your wildest beauty dreams. Prices range from RMB400 for lipsticks to RMB780 for eye shadows.

www.maccosmetics.com.cn

LU LU L E M O N AT H L E T I C A

For devoted yogis, Lululemon is not just a yoga-inspired clothing brand – it’s a lifestyle. Since launching in 1998, the company has come to encompass a holistic, community approach to head-stances and meditation, setting up free yoga classes, workshops and showrooms around the globe. The label’s first Beijing showroom expands the mission ever further. An airy, sleek space on top of the Moncler shop in Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, the venture has so far been operating on limited opening hours, putting on events around town to raise awareness about yoga, wellbeing and, of course, the venture’s hip (though pricey) fitness gear. Once the showroom officially opens this month, its main clothing collections will be on display alongside yoga, barre and pilates sessions. As an extra perk for China-based fans, Lululemon is offering ‘#thesweatlife passport’ – a booklet including 22 complimentary yoga lessons taught by Lululemon ambassadors in studios around Beijing – until December 31. The initiative was conceived to celebrate the company’s recent debut on Tmall – which is exactly where you’ll find the gear if you don’t fancy a trip to Sanlitun.

RECHENBERG

Inspired by a recent trip to the Tibetan plateau, Kathrin von Rechenberg’s autumn/ winter collection for her eponymous label speaks of snow-capped mountains and longlost traditions. Garments are all about loose shapes, warmth and comfort. They come in luxuriously soft fabrics such as cashmere, Merino wool, silk, woolen jersey, boiled wool and, perhaps most interestingly, handmade felt made from Yak hair. The line’s general tone is muted and earthy, its colors drawn from a palette with black at its base. It encompasses mustard, rust, iron grey, the orangey-reds of Tibetan coral, and of course the soft grey-beige of natural Yak. Items span long coats, and jackets showing closefitting, cozy necklines. Wide-legged trousers worn just above the ankle are paired with blouses made of silk organza and teasilk with voluminous results. Rechenberg successfully combines raglan with spiralcut, leg-of-mutton sleeves for a neatly fitted, draped look that appears both comfortable and practical. RMB2,900-30,000.

Xinyuanxili Dongjie (yard behind building 12),

Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里东街 , 12 号楼后面 (6463 1788, www.rechenberg.cn)

Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, N2-33, Tower N2, 11 Sanlitun

Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区是哪里屯路 11 号 2 楼三里屯太古里南区 N2-33

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www.pageonegroup.com weibo.com/pageonechina site.douban.com/pageone

Shop LG50, Indigo, No.18 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang - (+86 10) 8426 0408 Shop Units S2-14a-b,No.19 Sanlitun Road Chaoyang - (+86 10) 6417 6626 Shop 3B201, Zone 3, China World Mall, No.1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang - (+86 10) 8535 1055 W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 5

COLLAGE W H AT ’ S N E W

DRUMROLL

Julia Holter

PHOTO BY TONJE THILESEN

Praised for his refusal to follow literary trends, Liaoning-based Diao Dou is widely regarded as one of China’s leading satirists. Now his work is being translated into English for the first time by acclaimed British publishers Comma Press. Diao’s short story collection, Points of Origin, is available on Amazon, while the Chinese-language version isn’t set for publication until next year.

The Chengdu-born, Beijing-based troubadour Uncle Hu impresses with his debut disc, When Memories Collide. The melancholic performer conjures up something reminiscent of Elliot Smith with online hit ‘Without Exception,’ which turns the lyric “chasing greed and misery” into a hook. But fear not: the 60s-inspired album isn’t overly somber. Available at site.douban. com/unclehu.

Superheroes and humans co-exist in the Marvel-affiliated series Powers. Sharlto Copley (District 9) stars as a superheroturned-mortal detective devoted to maintaining peace between the two sides. In doing so, he must take on villains like Eddie Izzard’s power-absorbing ‘Big Bad’ Wolfe. The series – originally only available through the PlayStation Network – is now streamable at iqiyi.com. 2 6 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Ahead of her show at Modernsky Lab, we speak to the LA-based singer-songwriter who has enchanted critics and fans alike with a sound that blurs the boundaries between indie, composition and electronic music. — How did you feel about the critical praise for your new album Have You In My Wilderness? I’m always happy if people enjoy my records. This album is different because it’s the first time I’ve worked within a somewhat familiar musical tradition – ballads. — Since your Euripides-inspired debut, your records have been known for their literary influences. What were the inspirations behind Have You in My Wilderness? Mostly just other music. But for the song ‘Lucette Stranded on the Island’ I was inspired by a character in a short story by Colette called Chance Acquaintances. And ‘How Long?’ was inspired by Christopher Isherwood’s characters in The Berlin Stories. — Musically, you’ve been described as a mix of pop, classical and avant-garde. Think that’s accurate? I never consciously combine genres and I am not sure why people associate my music with classical. I did start writing music in traditional music school for other players

and then eventually started recording myself. So maybe there is something in the fact that I studied a bit in the classical tradition, even though I never felt fully a part of it. — You’re playing a classical concert hall in Shanghai and then a rock club in Beijing. Which do you think you’ll prefer? I like both types of venues. Sometimes a classical venue or museum venue may be nice because it’s very professional and hospitable; you feel well-treated. But I also like the energy of a small, crowded bar show, because people are just excited. It feels raw. — What are your plans following the China tour? I just finished a film score for a boxing movie called Bleed For This, and I’m really excited about that. I’m going to Australia after Asia, and then coming back home to take a break before going on tour again next year. — Is there any music you’re into that might surprise your fans? To be honest, I don’t think anything I like would be particularly surprising or shocking. I like so many different things. I like Hall & Oates. Friday Dec 4, 9pm-late; RMB100-150; Modernsky Lab, 5-108, Floor B1, Building D, Galaxy SOHO, Dongcheng 东城区朝阳门银河 SOHO D 座 B1 层 5-108 (5773 3620,

www.modernsky.com)

C A N VAS S E D

Xie Nanxing, ‘untitled : 3 ×‘

Xie Nanxing challenges tradition and the seemingly set rules of art education. His eighth solo exhibition is no exception and promises to be as experimental and evolutionary as the artist himself. Xie’s interest in psychology is clear – he paints a narrative urging the observer to see beyond the canvas. Just look closer. Tue-Sun, 11am-6.30pm, until

February 6; Galerie Urs Meile, 104

Caochangdi, Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang 朝阳区草场地 104 号 (6433 3393, www.

galerieursmeile.com)

H AO B U H AO

Hao

Bu Hao

Despite doubling its net losses in the summer, streaming service Youku Tudou was fully acquired by Alibaba in a deal worth an estimated USD3.7bil. The takeover is expected to conclude in the first quarter of 2016 and reflects Alibaba’s ambitions in home entertainment, having announced the Netflix-like subscription video service, Tmall Box Office (TBO), earlier this year.

Luke Skywalker, Hans Solo and friends will invade movie screens across Europe, North America and Japan in midDecember, but China will have to wait until next year. Star Wars: The Force Awakens wasn’t among the final 34 foreign films to be approved for theaters in 2015, despite an impressive publicity stunt in October that featured storm troopers taking over the Great Wall. Sad, we are. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 2 7

A R T S | FE AT URE

WUHAN’S NEW WAVE

Chinese Football Leading the City’s Next Generation by A n d re w C h i n

Written into Mainland music lore as China’s original punk capital, Wuhan has produced a new crop of bands that are redefining the city’s sound. Leading the pack is self-described emo group Chinese Football, whose serene sound may seem to contradict the in-yourface spirit of legendary forebears like SMZB and AV Okubo. But singer and guitarist Xu Bo promises that the band carries on Wuhan’s fiery legacy. “When playing live, we try to keep the original tension of punk music,” he says. “More importantly, we operate with a DIY attitude.” Comprised of veterans of the city’s music scene, Chinese Football formed four years ago. Fuelled by the chemistry between Xu and guitarist Wang Bo, the band’s lineup was completed with the arrival of bassist Li San and drummer Xiao Chao. Citing late 1990s emo pioneers like Jimmy Eat World, Death Cab for Cutie, The Get Up Kids and American Football (no relation) as inspiration, Chinese Football specialize in a potent guitar-bass-driven wistful indie-rock sound. Much like The White Stripes, Xu finds power in sticking to the basics.

“By setting that limit of guitar, bass and drums, we’re constantly finding ways to break through and make something interesting,” he says of the band’s sound. Building buzz through regular shows at Wuhan’s legendary VOX Livehouse, Chinese Football released their eponymous debut through the venue’s record label imprint, Wild, in September. “We’re very happy and even a little surprised by the response,” Xu says. “On Bandcamp, we’re getting positive comments every day from all over the world. Even the criticisms have been gratifying because it means someone is carefully listening and thinking about the music.” Lyrically inspired by “the fantasy of youth and its frustration,” Xu promises that the band will remain young at heart, despite all having day jobs and entering their 30s. He uses the rivalry between Herman and Max in the 1998 film Rushmore to make his point, before concluding: “Being young has nothing to do with age. I feel like I’m 20 when I perform.” █

Fri Dec 4, 9-11.30pm; RMB50-60; School Bar (see Listings for details)

“When playing live, we try to keep the original tension of punk music”

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PHOTO BY BALDUR KRISTJANSSON

“ Our generation was the first to have computers before we had guitars”

TIP OF THE ICELAND

The Inescapable Nordic Charm of Experimental Band múm by A n d re w C h i n

Experimental group múm have a sound that could only have come from Iceland. Like Björk, they mix electronic beats with an assortment of instruments. Like Sigur Rós, they craft beatific, childlike sounds. But founding member Örvar Þóreyjarson Smárason seems less able to place their style. “I can hear what the múm sound is, but I couldn’t put it into words,” he admits during a break from recording the band’s seventh album. Rather than anything intrinsically Icelandic, he instead attributes the “múm sound” to his musical partnership with Gunnar Örn Tynes, who he met at his 18th birthday party. “Gunnar and I had been making electronic music since we were children and were of the first generation that had computers before we had guitars,” he says. “When we were playing all this rock music with guitars in an indie band called Andhéri, we never really saw it any differently from our computer music. We’ve always mixed these things up so much that there is no way to distinguish.” By the time their masterful debut Yesterday Was Dramatic – Today is OK was released in 2000, Smárason and Tynes had crafted their own distinct sonic world. Five albums later, múm have become one of Iceland’s most enduring musical exports, with Smárason describing 2013’s Smilewound as “probably our most universally liked album yet.” The disc led to legendary producer Brian Eno handpicking the band to perform at this year’s Punkt Festival in Norway. But múm have achieved much else in the two decades since forming. Recent projects have included an alternative soundtrack to Battleship Potemkin, work with Japanese pop singers Aco and Tomoyo, and a joint composition with German pianist Huschka,

which was performed by the MDR Orchestra in Leipzig. “These are our favorite projects,” Smárason explains. “They’re complete luxuries that we get to do. We are happy whenever we get to explore a completely different world, whether it’s theater, film or orchestras.” The band appear as comfortable working with the Polish Radio Choir as they are with Australian pop goddess Kylie Minogue. This flexibility is the key to múm’s longevity, Smárason claims. “One of the most important things about staying together this long is keeping it loose and realizing that time will always move on, no matter what,” he says. “Most bands in Iceland are very relaxed on who the members in each band are. You can leave a band and someone else can step in. You can be in many different bands with different styles.” So while Smárason and Tynes have been the band’s constant members, múm currently boasts a powerful eight-person lineup. Animal Collective’s touring cellist Hildur Guðnadóttir, Edea percussionist Samuli Kosminen and respected singer-songwriter Ólöf Arnalds feature among their ranks. Noting that the band’s live set-up has “evolved over time with us,” Smárason promises that their Beijing show will dip into múm’s immense discography. “It’s pretty random though. The reasons we play each of these songs are often under-understandable to us,” he concludes, before admitting that he just made up the word. █

Sat Dec 19, 9-11.30pm; RMB220-260; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

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Ho l l y L i

A HARD DAY’S NIGHT

The Highs and Lows of Life in a Filipino Cover Band

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Filipino cover bands have become an ingrained part of bars worldwide, from Middle Eastern hotel lounges and luxury Pacific cruise liners, to upscale restaurants and salty pubs. Chancing upon one in a Beijing bar may no longer come as a surprise. But what is surprising, is that some of the musicians performing in these bands are extremely talented. At the German brauhaus Drei Kronen 1308, bandin-residence Eroica take to the stage. Donning bright dresses, skyscraper-high heels, vests and caps (the latter two worn exclusively by bandleader, keytarist and former music professor Pol), the three singers wear warm smiles and dance expressively. The band welcome new customers and bid farewell to those leaving. ‘Happy birthday’ is sung three times (in Chinese). It’s Saturday night and the Gongti bar is bustling. Friends chatter over sausages and sauerkraut, while a long table of guests sat in front of the slightly elevated stage down pint after pint. At one point, a man from the long table spontaneously jumps onto the stage and dances enthusiastically – if not rhythmically – to the beat. While this is a common and accepted occurrence, the band draw a line at guest singers, explains Yeng, who at 22 is the youngest vocalist of Eroica. “We’re the only ones singing. There’s no problem with guest dancers as long as there’s no touching. Sometimes we’ll grab their hands [to dance]. There are strategies,” she says. The crowd is largely subdued but appreciative, praising the band in person between sets. Pol tells us that their repertoire is quite limited but a quick glance at their catalog suggests otherwise. Hundreds of titles are listed under genres including RnB, Slow, Oldies (both Fast and Slow), Retro, Jazz, Rock, Foreign, plus more. As the night progresses they play ‘Love Me Like You Do’ and ‘Country Roads’ as well as a spirited version of ‘Xiao Pingguo’. They even perform a Spanish cover, requested by two Argentineans, who share their thanks afterwards (“Amazing. I was crying. Your Spanish is amazing! Gracias, gracias,” they say, taking one of the singer’s hands into their own). Generally, the band choose songs to suit their crowd. “If I see young people, then I go for more popular songs, but when I see middle-aged people, it’s 80s songs,” Pol says. “Americans love blues. It’s quite easy to please Japanese or Chinese. The Chinese are happy people.” The band members personally favor RnB but are open to everything. “Variety,” offers Jen, one of the three W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 3 1

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singers (and Pol’s wife), before Yeng adds: “If the people enjoy our songs, we are very happy.” The ubiquity of Filipino cover bands may mean that their wide-ranging musical skills, and heartfelt performances of ‘Bette Davis Eyes,’ are taken for granted by (often) drunk patrons. But it is a lack of opportunity, rather than of talent, that forces musicians from the Philippines, the band explain as they sip warm milk and coffee between sets. “In the Philippines there are no opportunities – you can’t earn as much money,” says Jen. “I would earn 150 US dollars a month as a music professor [in the Philippines]” Pol continues. “I told myself I couldn’t do it any longer, so I decided to work abroad. This was in 1995.” The Philippines has a population of about 100 million people, and while unemployment rates are relatively low, so are wages (when adjusted for purchasing power, an average salary in the Philippines is less than half that of China). So laboring abroad in low-skill, high-demand positions has become an attractive option for many, with roughly 12 million Filipinos living overseas. Traditionally this has meant construction, hospitality and service staff, but there are also tens of thousands of Filipinos performing as singers and musicians every night, all around the world. 3 2 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Their musicality seems innate, which may stem from the country’s deep-rooted culture of valuing family and community, says Yeng. “I inherited my musical talent from my parents,” she says. (“Same in my family too!” chimes Tin, the fourth member of the band.) “Even when you’re a young child, you can sing and dance. I also play guitar, drums and keyboard – I play for my church band.” Aside from Tin, all of the band’s members regularly attend church on Sundays. Adherence to religion in the Philippines (where over 90 percent of the country identifies as Christian) plays a major part in shaping the country’s music culture: “That’s where I started actually, at church,” Jen recalls. From colonial times until now, Filipino music has also been influenced by the country’s exposure to many different cultures. Traditional Spanish instruments were popular in the past but, despite a current Spanish-influence revival, it is American pop culture, proliferated during the American occupation, which firmly cemented itself in Filipinos’ musical consciousness. More recently, Korean pop has dominated, explains Yeng. “Videoke [karaoke] is everywhere in the Philippines. Outside houses there’s a machine. All you have to do is drop a coin in and then sing, with everybody around you watching.” Eroica have been performing in Beijing,

at DK1308, for a year, though Pol and Jen have performed together since 2003 in The Maldives, Japan, Malaysia and Singapore, among other countries. Then, last year, Pol recruited Yeng and Tin to the band. “I decided to add more singers, to make the performance alive,” Pol says. Having never traveled overseas and only recently finishing her studies in hotel and restaurant management, Yeng was hesitant to join: “At first I ignored their message,” she laughs. “But I chose to follow my passion.” Eroica are tireless performers, working six nights a week, with Chinese New Year a sole holiday (“except for the [military] parade – we had that off”). At the end of each night, around 1am, the quartet go home to their shared house and cook dinner together. “We eat and then we are chatting, chatting, chatting!” says Jen. “By then it’s probably 4 or 5am.” During downtime the band enjoy shopping, watching movies, eating and socializing with other Filipinos in Beijing. But their busy schedule means there is limited time to explore, and it is uncertain how long the band will remain in the capital. After a three-month probationary period, contracts with bars typically roll over every six months. “We have a contract but it ends [soon]. We still don’t know if they’re going to [continue to] hire us,” Jen explains. “[The notice period] is one month in advance. But we're still enjoying it here. Not all bands

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Previous page: Robinson, singer of Maggie's Band, performs during a rehearsal Left: Eroica performs at DK1308 Right: Maggie's Band members (clockwise from immediate right) Robinson, Wowie, Jimboi and Jun Bottom right: Eroica vocalists Tin, Yeng and Jen freshen up between sets

“I would earn 150 US dollars a month as a music professor in the Philippines. I told myself I couldn't do it any longer. I decided to work abroad”

have this kind of opportunity,” Pol adds. As long as the contract sticks, the show goes on. And while music is their passion, the band harbor other dreams. Apart from Pol, Eroica’s members come from distinctly non-musical professional backgrounds. Tin studied education, while Jen worked as a medical technologist. “Maybe after a few years we won’t want to sing anymore and will want to settle down, marry, and pursue our [studied] professions.” For now, though, they are satisfied and hopeful. “We are very happy and getting better and better every day. I’m going to be honest with you, this group isn’t really that good,” Pol says humbly. “But we get the attention of the crowd when we sing, and that’s one of the best things about us.” While the quality may vary between Beijing’s Filipino cover bands, Yeng describes their relationship as one of “friendly competition – we each have our own specialties.” As Eroica start their next set at DK1308, another band have taken to the stage just over a kilometer south, where the red neon sign of Maggie’s bar cuts through the shadows of Ritan Park. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 3 3

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Maggie’s isn’t the sort of place you just stumble upon. Nestled between embassies and downtown Beijing, the bar is, on any given night, home to scores of business – anybody and everybody looking for a good night. Regulars are warmly greeted and taken care of by the staff. Couples converse boisterously while men and women, often alone, line the circular bar, a mountain of liquor bottles shining from its center. The soundtrack is provided by a six-piece Filipino band, called – rather unimaginatively – Maggie’s Band. It consists of Jimboi (band leader, keyboard), Jun (bass), Wowie (guitar), Weng (drums), Robinson (vocals) and Anne (vocals). The band have only been playing together for six months but if our visit on a Thursday night, (and later to a rehearsal session) is any indication, they are killing it. It helps that Jimboi, Weng and Wowie are old band mates from a prior set-up, and that – apart from Anne, who was enrolled in community college – the band members all have professional musical backgrounds. “We’re the only full live Filipino band in Beijing, so there’s no pressure [to compete],” Anne tells us during rehearsal. “It’s our advantage,” Jimboi adds. Indeed, it’s all business on stage, with the members clearly at one with their instruments (or in the case of Robinson and Anne, their voices). During a simple rehearsal of a new cover, ‘Iris’ by the Goo Goo Dolls, we are transported. It’s powerful stuff. The exact number of Filipino bands in Beijing is unknown, but the owner and manager of Maggie’s, Garry, suggests it’s “about four or five.” Although none of the musicians I speak to can offer a more certain figure, Garry’s estimate seems conservative. But to his credit, he has been in the business for over 15 years, meaning he knows talent when he sees it. “When I pick a band, I watch each person’s video carefully and give

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them strict rehearsals,” he says. “People don’t realize, but it’s quite difficult managing a band. [Maggie’s Band] are cooperative, respectful and have a good attitude, so they’re pretty good.” The band members say they are enjoying Maggie’s and life in Beijing, although the environment has proved challenging at times (“It was very difficult to communicate with [Chinese] people early on. We use sign language and a calculator, always the calculator”). “The weather has been quite different because in the Philippines there is no winter,” says Jimboi. “I already have a RoboCop look: big jacket, pants and gloves. I’m prepared,” continues Weng, as everyone bursts into laughter. This happens a lot. Despite their serious demeanor, the group constantly breaks into their mother tongue, giggle and crack inside jokes. So what about performing makes them happiest? “When the crowd is happy,” Anne shares. “When people give us compliments – or tips,” Jimboi offers (cue another eruption of laughter). Taking a more serious tone, the conversation turns to home. Every member has left a partner or family back in the Philippines. “It’s very hard to be separated from our families but we sacrifice ourselves because our salary is much better here,” Wowie says softly. “This time it’s not as hard to communicate with family because we have WeChat.” “Back in 2000, all I could do was write letters,” adds Robinson. “It took a long time and sometimes they came late, weeks or months,” As the band’s contract allows holidays twice a year, they all plan to make a trip home during the upcoming Chinese New Year. While visibly excited at the prospect, the band aren’t slacking. They, like Eroica, play six nights a week, beginning late (10.30pm or 10.45pm), with four sets apiece. A hard day’s night, then. But as Robinson is quick to point out: “The bottom line is, if you’re enjoying your work, you cannot feel tired.” █

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YEAR OF THE GOOSE

Carly J. Hallman’s Debut Novel Depicts an Absurd Vision of Modern China by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

The harshest critics of foreign writers in China are usually other foreign writers in China. They are more sensitive to China cliches. They dislike the explanations required to make writing accessible to a general audience overseas. They recoil at the hint of stereotype, even if it draws on something they observe as commonplace. As such, novels and memoirs from China-based authors (especially young ones and those on small or independent publishers) can attract disdain from local critics. To my shame, it was perhaps this very fear that allowed a preview copy of Carly J. Hallman’s debut novel, Year of the Goose, to sink deep into the recesses of my inbox. Were the red and gold design not so appealing, I could make a hackneyed reflection on judging books by their covers. But then Hallman entered That’s Beijing’s Halloween flash-fiction competition. Her submission, The Roast Duck Killer, was a clear-cut winner – a darkly comic tale of a murderer exhibiting victims like Peking Ducks. And so, with my preview PDF retrieved, I shall atone for my quick judgment. Because while Year of the Goose is not without its faults, it is a charming and, at times, laugh-out-loud read. The novel opens with the travails of Kelly Hui, daughter of China’s richest man, Papa Hui, and heiress to his Bashful Goose Snack Company. China-watchers’ cliche-sensors will immediately tingle as she navigates the obese children’s fat camp in which the book’s opening section is set. The officials are of course corrupt, the buildings are of course unfinished, and the acne-ridden singleton who can’t grow a beard of course laments his mother’s pressure over marriage. Kelly herself is a spoiled American-educated princess who yearns for the respect and attention of her tycoon father, and her tedious ‘whatever’ attitude permeates the opening section. But persist and the story becomes distinctly more imaginative. As the focus moves to other, less one-dimensional characters (all are somehow linked to Papa Hui’s snack empire), Hallman’s writing

becomes more fluid and nuanced. The book’s second section is dedicated to the likable Wang Xilai, a balding hair-extension mogul implicated in a murder case. And from here onward, Hallman’s casual style (and the humor of petulant characters) sits more comfortably. Perhaps some of the references are still too easy (a grand banquet serves birds nest soup and “silver platters of tiger meat cooked with the fur still attached”). But Hallman paints an increasingly and endearingly absurd vision of modern China. Quite where parody becomes satire is unclear. But given that the actual offspring of China’s richest man, Wang Sicong, gave his dog an Apple Watch (see page 41), these blurred boundaries exist beyond the realm of literature. As the story grows more surreal, it becomes more compelling in turn. Some of the book’s finest flourishes come in its oddest moments: the diary of Papa Hui’s on-the-run goose, and an errant Buddhist monk reincarnated in the body of a turtle. Hallman’s style is direct, youthful and, at times, reminiscent of crude teen lit (“aren’t you supposed to come back as something higher?” the turtle is asked. “Like something not used in, uh, boner soup?”). Too often she relies on strings of questions to convey characters’ thoughts, and her colloquialisms can feel at odds with the characters playing them out. People ‘plop’ down into seats too regularly; things happen ‘left, right and center’; and perhaps I’m being old-fashioned, but there is something a little jarring about seeing terms like ‘humble-brag’ and ‘craptastic’ in print. Nonetheless, Year of the Goose is a credible debut. Even if worldweary China heads don’t get it, there will be plenty who do. █

Year of the Goose is published in print and e-book on Unnamed Press from December 8. Available from Amazon and Barnes & Noble

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KING OF THE GLAMBERTS

Adam Lambert on Fans, Fame and Freddie Mercury By Zo ey Z h a , i m a g e by D a v i d Ro e m e r

From struggling in musical theater to rocking 200,000 people with Queen, Adam Lambert has had a wild ride. Since finishing second in the 2009 edition of American Idol, the singer has transcended reality show fame thanks to his powerful vocals and signature glam-rock sound. As he returns to China for a January tour, we caught up with the star in Beijing to chat about his new album, filling in for Freddie Mercury and OG ‘Glamberts.’ — How do you feel about your new album, The Original High? I’m really proud of it. I like the way it sounds, I love the messages in the songs and the response my fans are giving me on it. It’s a very cohesive album. As a singer, I discovered the possibilities of my vocals. — The album cover is probably your most stark and serious-looking to date. Was that the idea behind the album? There is definitely an idea of stripping back the concepts and excess that I’ve done in the past for something more revealing. I wanted it to be more grounded and classic. The first album cover was like Lisa Frank – very colorful, sort of flamboyant weird. I loved it because that was what I was experiencing at that time. But now, I’m like, ‘let’s go the other way’ because the music is more real, more melancholy and more moody. 3 6 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

— Why was this the right time to make this change? It’s definitely a reflection about where I am right now. I’ve been through more relationships and career ups and downs. It got to a certain point where I feel I’m grown up and more settled with myself. Hopefully, my songs reflect that. — Has your ‘Glamberts’ fanbase changed over your career? I’m always surprised. I’ve got a group of diehard fans, which is a very small group of women who would follow all my concerts in the US. We call them the OG Glamberts. [But] I’ve seen young girls and even dads, especially on Queen’s tour. I see gay men in their 20s, who I call sisters. That’s a nice element to see because they are my peers and where I come from. — From reality show contestant to internationally renowned pop star, what have you gained and lost in this process? There is no handbook to teach you how to deal with all the sudden notoriety. It’s a learning process, but an exciting one. I had been working as a musical theater singer and playing in a garage band in Los Angeles for 10 years and still getting nowhere. Coming from American Idol changed my career suddenly. It was a shortcut to success for me.

— What was it like touring with Queen? They are so kind to me and treat me like a family member. When I got the invitation I wasn’t sure [at first] – I wasn’t going to turn down this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, but I was concerned about their fans’ reaction. I didn’t know if they would accept me singing these songs but I also hoped that I could pull this off. Now four years later, I feel like we finally did it and it’s still happening as an ongoing collaboration. It’s been amazing to tour and meet fans you might not be able to see on other occasions. — Did you worry about being compared with Freddie Mercury? I did at the beginning. But then I put in a lot of thought and time to figure out how to perform these songs as myself, and still pay tribute to Freddie. Now, I don’t think about it anymore. — What’s your next project? I don’t know. I think maintaining this career is the most challenging part, especially since pop music is so fickle. But doing TV or a film would be fun. █ Sun Jan 3, 8pm; RMB480-980; Beijing Exhibition

Theater, 135 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng 西城区西直门外大街 135 号 (400 610 3721, en.damai.cn)

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f a week is a long time in politics, then imagine how long a year in the world’s most-populous country is. Such is the challenge of summing up China’s 2015 in just 12 pages. This was a year – like many before it – where celebs rose and fell, peculiar stickers swept WeChat, and utterly pointless world records were smashed. Tigers and flies fell to the drive on corruption, the stock market crashed (and then got back on its feet, kind of) and then most of China’s military paraded through the middle of Beijing as we all took a holiday. In sum,RELATIVELY a lot happened, and this humble roundup cannot claim to SPEAKING be authoritative. We can only hope that it is mildly entertaining. As such, this is perhaps an act of self-indulgence; just a collection of things that captured our imaginations over the year. But to lend some credibility, we’ve also spoken to experts from across the five categories that we have arbitrarily divided the year into – arts, sport, fashion, technology and online. They’ve all thrown in some 2016 predictions as well, so we’ll be sure to hold them to account this time next year.

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ew memes, viral videos and gifs appear so quickly that the very concept of a calendar year seems as archaic as pre-Weibo social media. So summarizing a year in online phenomena can only ever be – just like most of the Internet – an arbitrary collection of funny things. This year was fundamentally no different from the one preceding it, though some of the details changed. ‘APEC Blue’ became ‘Winter Olympics Blue,’ while praise for the Facebook CEO’s Mandarin became scorn for the Xiaomi CEO’s English. Viral trends are fleeting and sure to be forgotten. But for one more time this year: Enjoy, and instantly forget.

LIZ CARTER Author and journalist

he year 2015 wasn’t just a big year for Chinese social media – it was also a big year for Liz Carter. The author, journalist and former Tea Leaf Nation editor published her book Let 100 Voices Speak: How the Internet is Transforming China and Changing Everything this year, which we described in our July issue as “as much a compilation of the major events, memes and phenomena to have emerged in the Web 2.0 era as it is a prescriptive analysis.”

WHO WAS THE ONLINE HERO OF 2015?

If I had to pick a hero from 2015, it would be that teacher with the 10-character resignation letter: “世界那么大，我想去看看” (“It’s a big world, I wanna go see it”). I think the spirit behind that is pretty 2015 – startups and other risky ventures are getting more and more popular.

WHAT ABOUT THE ONLINE VILLAINS?

For single people, the celebrities who got married in grand style this year – Liu Qiangdong and bubbletea girl; Angelababy and Huang Xiaoming; and Jay Chou and Hannah Quinlivan – probably didn’t make November 11 any easier. Fan Bingbing and her boo didn’t get married, but they get an honorable mention for sheer amount of non-news generated.

WHAT WAS 2015’S BEST MEME?

I don't think it was a meme exactly, but my favorite social media development of the year was the WeChat hongbao function. It was around in 2014 but became really popular earlier this year during the Spring Festival. Integration of mobile payment apps

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into everyday life is also a big trend. It's definitely happening faster in places like Beijing than, say, D.C.

WAS 2015 THE YEAR THAT WECHAT FINALLY OVERTOOK WEIBO?

Weibo is dead. Now it's just a place for celebrities to show off how happy they are and for companies to advertise their products. WeChat is everywhere, but it doesn't totally replace Weibo. There's a saying that goes: “On Facebook, it's all the people you know but have nothing in common with, and on Twitter, it's all people you don't know but have everything in common with.” WeChat is not yet a community of ideas, although it does damn near everything else, and does it well.

WHICH NEW SOCIAL MEDIA PLATFORM SHOULD WE BE KEEPING AN EYE OUT FOR?

I can’t think of any – I guess 2016 will be the year to look out for surprises! Carter’s book Let 100 Voices Speak: How the Internet is Transforming China and Changing Everything is available on Amazon and for Kindle.

Lots of things went viral this year, but some viruses are worse than others. Like how polio is worse than herpes.

Do you get a rush every time someone clicks the little heart on your WeChat Moment? Given that some of these accounts average over 1 million likes a month, imagine how they feel.

BELLY BUTTON CHALLENGE

In a collective act of unashamed narcissism, the belly button challenge saw Weibo users attempting to touch their own navel by reaching around their backs. It was, of course, a thinly veiled excuse for people to show off their slim bodies (it's actually more a sign of shoulder flexibility, but whatever).

DUANG It all began with Jackie Chan’s shampoo commercial: “...after

filming, visual effects are added, the hair – duang! – becomes black, very shiny and very smooth,” he exclaimed. No one knows what ‘duang’ means, but that’s kind of the point. It soon spread across the web as a multi-purpose sound effect.

ME, MY SELFIES AND I The following photographic masterpieces proved particularly popular: Xi Jinping with UK Prime Minister David Cameron and Manchester City footballer Sergio Aguero; Premier Li Keqiang with Indian PM Narendra Modi; Aibaba’s Jack Ma with French President François Hollande and assorted tycoons.

BROTHER ORANGE This one had all the ingredients of viral gold: stolen goods, selfies in front of

fruit trees and a nationwide hunt for the man with Matt Stopera’s phone. The Buzzfeed writer and a guy from Guangdong (forever known as Brother Orange) then went global with their bromance. Heartwarming stuff.

THE ‘MAGIC BUNNY’ There are two important things to know about the Ili pika: it’s cute and it’s en-

dangered. Awareness of the rarely sighted Chinese mammal spread throughout the net (albeit under the technically inaccurate name ‘magic bunny’) after it was profiled by National Geographic.

WANG SICONG The son of China’s richest man was a constant source of

fascination and controversy in 2015. Social media exploded when Wang gave his dog Apple Watches, when he spoke English with a British accent, and when he made vulgar comments about women. Thankfully, most reacted with outrage.

Most WeChat Likes

People’s Daily (rmrbwx)

Also the most viewed account, the Party’s official paper is the king of WeChat.

Big Bared Flower (dacihua258)

A channel that appears to be made up of funny videos from Dongbei.

Card Baby Micro Card (kawa01) A selection of short articles, music, celebs, jokes and fashion.

Reading Club Digest (duzhe3650)

A literature magazine that delivers doses of micro-lit to followers.

5 7

Insight (DJ00123987)

Clickbait about the weird and wonderful. Utter misnomer.

Northeast Tease (dadoubi258)

Dongbei videos again prove to be a popular source of entertainment.

Comedy Gif Figure (gifaaa)

Everyone loves funny gifs and this account is dedicated to them.

CCTV News (cctvnewscenter)

The news broadcaster now broadcasts news to your pocket.

Traditional holiday wishes (zhufu569)

Nauseatingly cutesy holiday greetings for acquaintances and distant relatives.

FM93, The Voice of Radio (hifm93)

Breaking news: Traffic radio is popular in a country with a lot of traffic.

Based on latest monthly ‘like’ figures at the time of writing. Data courtesy of newrank.cn W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 4 1

n one sense, 2015 was hardly a vintage year for sports in the capital. Beijing’s pro teams suffered mixed fortunes and national superstars continued retiring before obvious replacements had emerged. But on the international stage, 2015 was perhaps China’s most significant year since the 2008 Olympics. The Bird’s Nest was brought to life once more for the World Athletics Championships; while Beijing and Zhangjiakou’s successful Winter Olympics 2022 bid means that China can create another spectacle for the watching world. The latter also provides an incentive to combat the polluted skies that everyone, from top tennis players to amateur marathon runners, had something to say about this year.

fter almost snatching the Chinese Super League (CSL) title in 2014, Guo’an had a comparatively disappointing season. Nonetheless, striker Dejan Damjanović stood out once again, with the ponytailed Montenegrin finishing as the team’s top scorer for the second year running.

CAN YOU SUM UP GUO’AN’S YEAR FOR US? When you finish fourth, for sure nobody is happy. But it was very tough throughout the season and we fought until the end to qualify for the ACL [Asian Champions League; spots are awarded only to the top three teams in the CSL]. But in my opinion, we couldn’t compete in three competitions this year – the number of injuries was one of the reasons why we didn’t reach ACL.

WHAT WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO HAPPEN IN THE CSL IN 2015?

For me, the most important thing this year was that this was the most interesting CSL season, and a lot of things were decided in the last games. That makes it interesting for everyone, and it shows that the CSL is about more than one team! But still, the season will be remembered for Guangzhou winning their fifth title, to be honest. Again, they showed that they are the best in the league.

WHAT (OR WHO) WAS THE BIG SURPRISE OF 2015?

Shijiazhuang Ever Bright – a new team in the league but with an excellent coach and fans who made games tough for everyone, especially at their home ground.

WHO WAS THE CSL HERO OF 2015?

Shao Jiayi [Guo’an’s recently retired midfielder] - an excellent footballer and even better guy. He is the best ambassador for Chinese football.

AND THE VILLAIN OF 2015? This, I don’t know really.

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DEJAN DAMJANOVIC BEIJING GUO’AN

A DIPLOMATIC ANSWER. WHAT ARE YOUR 2016 PREDICTIONS FOR GUO’AN AND CHINESE FOOTBALL IN GENERAL? That’s a really hard question. It depends who stays in the Guo’an team next year. We need fresh blood but not too much. I don’t know how the CSL is going to be, but it’s going to be harder, that’s for sure. This year was really unpredictable, so I’m expecting something like that again in 2016.

AND WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR NEXT YEAR? IS RETIREMENT ON THE HORIZON? My contract is up in December, so I still don’t know my situation. I’m satisfied with my season – 20 goals in all competition without any injuries. Now I’m going to rest and see what happens, but my plan is to play two years more.

World Cups in any sport are worth celebrating. Ones that arise from beating Japan in the final, even more so. Led by the wonderfully nicknamed spiker, ‘Iron Hammer’ Lang Ping, China’s women’s volleyball team secured the title and booked their place at the 2016 Rio Olympics.

GUO CHUAN

China might not have much of a reputation in the sailing world, but this plucky skipper sailed his way into history by crossing the Arctic Ocean in record time. Leading an international crew, Guo took just 13 days to cover the 6,000km voyage in a trimaran named ‘Qingdao China.’

BEIJING DUCKS

The Ducks have made a faltering start to the 2015-16 season, but the last calendar year can still be considered a success. The team secured their third CBA title in four years back in March, despite the fact that star point guard Stephon Marbury is pushing 40.

Top

5 Feel-Good Sporting Stories Because we all watch

sports to feel better about the world, right?

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BEIJING TIGERS

The capital’s baseball team failed to retain their national title, losing out to first-time champions Jiangsu Pegasus. While being runner-up might normally be considered an achievement, China’s professional league only features four teams. So really, the Tigers finished third-from-bottom.

DING JUNHUI

Having started 2015 as world No. 1, China’s most successful snooker player looked set to finish the year in ninth. Ding’s ranking wasn’t helped by his failure to progress from the first round of three successive tournaments and his loss to Gary Wilson – ranked just 56th – at his home tournament, the China Open.

LOSERS

WINNERS

All sports have winners and losers. Normally there are far more losers but here’s three of each

CHINA’S WOMEN’S VOLLEYBALL TEAM

LIU XIANG

The former hurdling star ended his marriage just three months after retiring from athletics. Citing a personality mismatch, Liu’s divorced from actress Ge Tian less than a year after the wedding. Ge also loses points for questionable performances in anti-Japanese drama Together We Fight the Devils.

Liu Hong walks to gold

China’s only gold medal at the World Athletics Championships came in the ever-popular 20km walk. While very little of Liu’s impressive 1:27:45 performance made for pulsating viewing, she waddled into the Bird’s Nest to rapturous cheers before crossing the line in front of a home crowd.

Usain Bolt gets taken out by a Segway

Sure, feel-good sporting moments should be about pushing physical limits and triumphing over adversity. But in this list, schadenfreude can trump all that. Usain Bolt getting wiped out at the Bird’s Nest by hapless Segway cameraman Song Tao was a gift from the gods of gifs. Endless replay value.

Li Na gives birth

Given that Li Na has retired, this perhaps shouldn’t qualify. But she’s still sporting royalty. Plus, newborn Alisa was pretty cute, and and some would argue that pushing out a 3kg baby is harder work than winning a grand slam. The former tennis star also managed to amass another RMB75 million this year, according to Forbes. Quite the retirement.

Chen Penbin runs 100 marathons in 100 days

Marathons are hard. One hundred marathons, more so. So running one a day for 100 days may be an accurate description of hell. But 37-year-old former fisherman Chen Penbin seemed to have a permanent (though occasionally pained) smile on his face throughout the challenge.

Ning Zetao has abs

The 22-year-old may have won 100-meter freestyle gold in swimming’s 2015 FINA World Championships but it was Ning’s abs that went viral online. “We call handsome boys little fresh meat,” wrote one Weibo user. “But for special ones like Ning, he should be called little fresh fish.” W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 4 3

he most exciting thing about tech is how quickly things change. But that’s also the most frustrating thing about it. You buy a new phone and it is obsolete seconds later. You fall in love with a new app, and then it falls foul of Chinese law. You believe that the latest gadgets will improve your life, and then a self-driving car kidnaps your mother and drives her to Mongolia. It’s time to step back, put away that damn Apple Watch and take stock of all the recent happenings in the world of Chinese tech. It may feel like you’ve just downloaded 2015 onto your phone, but it’s already bugging you to upgrade to a newer version. 4 4 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

KAISER KUO Director of International Communications at Baidu

ong-term Beijing resident, co-host of the Sinica podcast and allaround China tech connoisseur Kaiser Kuo sums up the year in a collection of pleasing soundbites.

WHAT WAS THE MOST FARREACHING THING TO HAPPEN IN THE CHINA TECH WORLD THIS YEAR? I’d say it was the wave of consolidations in the Internet sector: Didi and Kuaidi early in the year, Ganji and 58.com in the spring, Meituan and Dianping, Alibaba buying Youku-Tudou, and Baidu’s shareswap that gave Ctrip a sizable stake in Qunar. Taken together these most certainly represent a significant change in the overall competitive scene.

WHAT WAS THE BEST BREAKTHROUGH TECHNOLOGY OF 2015?

This year saw a lot of breakthroughs in speech recognition technology, including Baidu’s Deep Speech tech applied to Mandarin Chinese. It’s astonishingly accurate, and is going to be a real game-changer: You’ll be able to do voice commands in very natural language soon for a huge range of applications. This is going to make networked devices much more accessible and easy-to-use for ordinary people. This will be up there among

the big interface advances, alongside the mouse and the touch screen.

WAS THERE A TECH STORY IN CHINA THAT CAUGHT YOUR EYE?

I can’t put a date to it, or a discrete event. But this year a lot of people watching the tech scene in China felt that it was the year when mobile Internet in China had actually surpassed the US in meaningful ways. Many of the companies who are active in this space and started off as PC-centric were, by the end of the year, clearly mobile-first. Mobile is making up over 50 percent of their traffic, or even their revenues. And we all started realizing how much better than WhatsApp WeChat actually is, and how much stuff you can do with Baidu Maps.

WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS AND EXPECTATIONS FOR 2016?

We’re going to see AI make gigantic strides in 2016 in areas like computer vision, machine translation, speech recognition and speech synthesis. While AI didn’t touch the lives of the majority of Chinese web users in 2015, it certainly will in 2016 – though it will do so in ways that aren’t obvious to most people. Tech companies are going to move even more meaningfully – and aggressively – into traditional industries like healthcare, finance and education. And we’re finally going to see a Chinese tech company make waves in an international market.

QUOTE OF THE YEAR

“APPLE IS HITLER” That’s at least what Jia Yueting, the billionaire founder and CEO of Chinese video site LeTV seemed to think about the California tech giant. The entrepreneur made the awkward comparison in March, in a poster published on his Weibo page (which has more than 5 million followers) teasing the launch of LeTV’s new smartphone. The image showed a cartoon Adolf Hitler wearing a red armband with the Apple logo in place of the Nazi swastika. Smooth move. The poster read “Crowdsourced, Freedom vs. Arrogance, Tyranny” and was supposed to illustrate that Apple is stifling innovation and harming the interests of users. After the image drew international attention, Jia issued an apology, replacing the image of Hitler with that of a king. Still, we now know what this guy really thinks.

5 The year’s

biggest updates (and downgrades) Ma down, Zuckerberg up. Among other things.

Poor Jack Ma (relatively speaking)

Ma started 2015 as China’s richest man. The Alibaba founder Jack Ma was rolling in renminbi – and dollars, after his American IPO. But in October, Ma was ousted from his spot by Wang Jianlin, leaving him with a measly US$19 billion and China’s most successful web company. Poor chap.

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But is it rose gold?

In 2014, China surpassed the US as the iPhone’s biggest market. So how to follow the success of the iPhone 6? Rose gold, that’s how. The new iPhone 6s sported this elegant (and, you know, made up) color on its metallic back and it outsold its normal-colored counterpart by a hefty three million units in the Mainland.

Uber love for China

Despite not being legal in the strictest sense, Uber is something of a big deal in China. The firm is already doing more than one million rides per day in China, which constitutes 30 percent of its entire business. It works because China has a) tons of cities and b) terrible traffic in said cities. Simple business, really.

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Chinese government swipes right on startups

In May, Chinese Li Keqiang met with a group of tech entrepreneurs in Beijing’s Zhongguancun, or ‘China’s Silicon Valley.’ Then in September, Xi Jinping visited Seattle as executives from Apple, IBM and Facebook joined up with their Chinese counterparts at Alibaba, Tencent and Baidu. It was a tech-together like no other.

马克·扎克伯格

That’s pronounced “Mǎkè zhā kè bó gé,” and it’s the Chinese name of Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg. He went public with his mandarin skills at Tsinghua University, where he spoke for 20 minutes and even dropped in a few Chinese idioms. The Internet was not kind however, with commentators criticizing his tones.

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ess than a decade ago, China was considered a vast, untapped market ruled by lawlessness and piracy. Now, it’s the world’s second largest film market and is changing the way Hollywood works. In 2015 we saw domestic productions like Monster Hunt setting new records, a product of the burgeoning professionalism sweeping all creative industries – from music to literature, art to theater. The year past was also one of award-winning writers, Amex-wielding art collectors, Internet regulation, the growth of livehouses around the country and, alas, the confirmation that no country can resist the charms of The Fast and the Furious.

ZHANG LI Founder of Gallery 01100001

ince graduating Beijing’s Central Academy of Fine Art (CAFA) in 1992, Zhang Li has established himself as a leading scholar on contemporary Chinese art. In 2009, he founded Gallery 01100001 in Beijing and was recently appointed director of Shanghai Gallery of Art, where he has served as curator since 2004.

WHAT DO YOU THINK WAS THE BIGGEST CHANGE IN CHINA’S ART SCENE IN 2015?

The immense and powerful growth of the domestic art sector. This year proved that the Chinese art scene could withstand, and to some extent even weaken, the impact of shifts in the global economic recession and social environment.

WHAT WAS YOUR ART HIGHLIGHT OF THIS YEAR? Xu Zhen’s solo exhibition at Shanghai’s Long Museum.

WHAT (OR WHO) WAS THE BIG NAME OF 2015?

Gu Dexin, China’s most avant-garde artist. His installation works have earned him worldwide fame.

WHAT DO YOU PREDICT FOR CHINESE ART IN 2016?

I presume we may witness a tremendous shift in the way art is created here. It’s also likely that artists will try to be more implicit or subtle in expressing their visions, rather than overtly aggressive or extreme.

WHAT ABOUT CHINESE COLLECTORS? WILL THE PHENOMENAL GROWTH CONTINUE?

Chinese collectors are only going to grow in number. As for the art that’s most likely going to be trending? I think it’ll be works from the early 20th century that grab quite a bit of attention from local investors.

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LIU CIXIN The nine-time Galaxy Award-

winner continues to lead Chinese science fiction to new heights. In 2015, Liu became the first Asian writer to win Best Novel at the coveted Hugo Awards for the English translation of his famous work The Three-Body Problem. The groundbreaking book was the first of its genre to be translated into English in 30 years, and will be adapted for a majorly hyped film set for release next year.

CHINA’S BOX OFFICE It was another record-

breaking year for China’s film industry, with 2014’s total box office income of RMB29.6 billion overtaken by September 2015. The biggest benefactor looked set to be Fast & Furious 7 (which became China’s most commercially successful film ever), before moviegoers redeemed themselves – FF7’s record was quickly broken by domestic animation-live-action hybrid Monster Hunt (although somewhat controversially, see below).

OVER-HYPED MAINLAND SEQUELS The year began with disappointing box office returns for Jiang Wen’s highly anticipated Gone with the Bullets. The follow-up to 2011 hit Let the Bullets Fly grossed around USD83 million, which – while a respectable number – was far lower than expected (early hype had tipped it to set a new box-office record). Similar disappointment faced Lost in Hong Kong, the sequel to 2013’s hugely successful comedy Lost in Thailand.

FEWER STREAMING OPTIONS

Long-promised plans to regulate Internet streaming came to fruition in February, meaning that TV shows require a permit and approval of the full season before making their way to China. Just over a year ago, Frank Underwood and the House of Cards gang were averaging 3 million views a day on Sohu. Yet the third season still remains unavailable on the Chinese net. Given how underwhelming Season 3 is, though, perhaps that’s a blessing in disguise.

MATT DAMON’S PONYTAIL China/Hollywood 'co-productions' have been an industry buzzword for years,

and no film has more riding on it than The Great Wall. Filming for Zhang Yimou’s sci-fi action adventure (which is based on a story by World War Z author Max Brooks) began in Qingdao in March 2015. But it was the film’s star, Matt Damon, who had the world buzzing when he casually revealed a ponytail at a Beijing press conference to promote the film. Hao bu hao? You decide.

3 entertainment industry predictions

for 2016

1 More (licensed!) music streaming

More box office regulation

China’s booming film industry was undermined by allegations that box-office figures for Monster Hunt, Lost in Hong Kong and The Hundred Regiments Offensive had been manipulated (some cinemas reported selling more tickets than they have seats). In September, the Motion Picture Association of America (MPAA) confirmed a deal with China that allows it to independently collect and verify payments from films distributed here, and more regulations are expected to prevent distributors inflating sales figures.

No industry has been hit harder by piracy than music. But the sector seems ready to fight back. With unlicensed streaming finally outlawed, China’s major music-streaming services have been pushed to sign exclusive deals with American record labels. Those services may have spent much of 2015 suing one another, but they now seem ready to establish a viable legal music sector. The competition will be fierce – Apple Music has just joined the likes of QQ Music, Kugou and Alibaba’s Xiami in an already crowded market.

More paying subscribers

After years of skepticism, companies like iQiyi have proven that China is ready for paid subscription services. The site attracted over 5 million paid users who can watch hit shows like The Last Tomb in advance. Online viewers also proved willing to fork out for Game of Thrones and The Sopranos (both on QQ), while Sohu has attracted huge numbers of monthly subscribers by acquiring big-name Hollywood films. With the demand already in place, 2016 will bring big battles for content and an inevitable price war.

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a. The n i h C r year fo e l owth r b g a n d o e i n h a fas sustai s d a e w c n 5 e notice. i 1 r 0 k e 2 o p x o t t e a have world ubt th y of o e a d h t m m o t u n y a e r h t s s t i s u r u here litan M on ind he yea i o t h p s s o a a r f t w e s o with ’ s d i y M r h t o t s t ’ n t k u g r u co ethin ew Yo des, b m N a o c s t e a d d a umers n s h o i n t e i o v c b i a h h e for two hines might C ’ h-hit ex , f s s is no o a s r s a i m l e s h G w T e o g . h T Lookin ole too nding p r e e r h p t o s j a h Don’t g g . m n i u g s o a i n r i r r d h u e T e t y h ina: nufac s – pla a ), but t e e t m e to g s p y Art, ‘Ch a a o d t p h d g e o d n t i i h n and s bag a iscern oppos d s d t y i e l e d g f n r ould n i a e h it (see r s t s a b n ’ s e u l r g o e c n c n i n heir i ‘Chan me th cheap o d f S o o . o o g d – and t o n t a 2016, t the la ill love t s n s i u j e s r e w e long ace’ te ough – z h r t e V g ‘ n o d r n get us w of ‘Berberry’ a nty see ple nge. a h c r e nev Fashion designer and professor

LUO JINGJIE

uo Jingjie is Assistant Director at the Fashion & Art Design School of Donghua University, Shanghai, and one of China’s Top 10 fashion designers according to the China Fashion Association and the China National Garment Association. He has shown his designs both at China Fashion Week in Beijing and Shanghai Fashion Week.

WHAT WAS THE MOST IMPORTANT OR FAR-REACHING FASHION EVENT THIS YEAR?

This was a turbulent year in fashion. Many international houses dropped their designers and, vice versa, a number of creatives left brands they’d been working with for years – Balenciaga and Alexander Wang for instance, but also Lanvin and Alber Ebaz. The downturn brought by the economic slump shrunk the living and breathing space of the fashion industry. Amid the overall slowdown, China has somehow come out as a winner: we saw many up-and-coming Chinese fashion talents making headlines in international fashion weeks – Haizhen Wang, Masha Ma, Fengcheng Wang. This was also the year when more established Chinese designers,

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like Uma Wang, became regular fixtures of the fashion calendar. Fashion in the East is growing fast, and China is at the center of it.

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE FASHION MOMENT?

My personal favorite this year was Shanghai Fashion Week. Unlike China Fashion Week in Beijing, the Shanghai event has made waves over the last couple of years, and has become a serious contender in the industry. This season had lots of buyers, lots of attention, lots of new faces. It was lively, dynamic and creative – super interesting to attend.

WHO IS A CHINESE DESIGNER TO WATCH?

There are so many good ones. If I had to pick I would say Fengchen Wang, a young Beijing-born designer who just showed at New York and Shanghai fashion weeks. She has an international perspective and a futuristic aesthetic – and most importantly, a lot of potential.

ANY PREDICTIONS FOR 2016?

For China’s fashion industry, 2016 is going to be another year of growth and expansion. Many promising designers who studied fashion abroad are coming back, and starting to set foot in the local industry. Taobao and ecommerce in general are also going to offer more space for smaller brands, a move that might possibly threaten bigger ventures and fashion companies. Generally speaking, small-scale businesses are going to do really well, I think – the market is shifting away from the big names, which means new designers are going to have more opportunities to thrive.

was hot on China’s planet fashion? The it girl, the hot guy, the

ZHANG XINYU

Up-and-coming Chinese actress Zhang Xinyu turned international fashion heads on the red carpet of the 68th Cannes Film Festival this year when she wore a cotton quilt reminiscent of the folk-style padded jackets favored by workers in Dongbei. Designed by Hohhot-born designer Sheguang Hu, the gown went viral and its pattern was soon adopted by the meme world.

rising actress – Here’s the skinny on the country’s most stylish names this year

ANGELABABY Hong Kong actress, singer and

model Angelababy broke the Chinese Internet this October when she married actor Huang Xiaoming in a ceremony that could be best described as batshit-crazy expensive. Perhaps looking to upstage her American counterpart Kim Kardashian (the two are often compared for their impressive lack of talent), Angelababy is said to have spent USD31 million on the nuptials – nearly three times as much as Kim and Kanye.

The Met digs China (and so does everybody else)

Paying homage to the influence of Chinese culture on Western fashion through a combination of music, film, photography and clothes, ‘China: Through the Looking Glass’ became the New York museum’s most successful exhibition to date. Its opening night, the famed Met Ball, saw celebs (from China and Hollywood alike) walk the red carpet in China-influenced dresses. Given the risk of cultural misappropriation, it could have been a major taste snafu. But actually, it was ok.

Vogue China turns 10

hottest man, was without doubt our crush of the year. The country’s top male model is also a part-time singer and actor who just happens to be a former Olympic rower. In spring, Hu was appointed international ambassador for London Collections of Men (the male equivalent of London Fashion Week) by the British Fashion Council, which saw him promoting British style across the world (but mostly in China, really). Man is so hot.

That Guo Pei dress

A well-established name in China, haute couturiere Guo Pei made international headlines when Rihanna wore one of her creations to the Met Ball. The gown – which featured an imperial yellow, fur-trimmed cape embroidered with scrolls of flora – took two years to make and weighed 25 kilos. It was compared to a gigantic pizza, a jianbing and SpongeBob, but it put the Chinese designer firmly on the radar of the global fashion industry (which had been somewhat behind).

Sprouts grow everywhere

The glossy magazine turned 10 in September and celebrated with a glitzy 1920s-inspired cover shoot featuring 10 A-list Chinese celebs captured by fashion photographer Mario Testino. Birthday parties in Milan and Shanghai soon followed, bringing together all the A-listers you’d expect. The publication has established itself as one of Condé Nast’s most commercially successful titles – an impressive feat in a country that, until two decades ago, had no fashion scene to speak of.

HU BING Hu Bing, aka China’s (the world’s?)

No one is quite sure why people around the country (starting in Chengdu) began wearing hairpins in the shape of sprouts, grass, mushrooms and flowers. But then again, why not? This trend proved so popular that, unlike most other hair-accessory fads (or specifically, barrette fads), these bean sprout clips were spotted not only on women and kids, but also on men. Taobao sold more than 1 million hairpins, with the fad evolving to include flags, food items and insects.

OF THE YEAR’S TRENDIEST TRENDS AND EVENTS THAT TRENDED Some dope, some random, some downright bizarre. that's fashion, we suppose.

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GRAPEVINE S N AC KS A N D T H E C I T Y

O F F T H E B E AT E N P L AT E

In this month’s edition of Snacks and the City – which is our foodand-drink news column, but also our Sex and the City parody column, obviously – we explore the following faux-poignant question: Is anybody content to live traditionally anymore? (Besides Charlotte, of course.) We only ask because Da Dong (whom we originally considered the upholder of that most sacred of Beijing traditions: Peking Duck) has turned the dish on its head – or placed it in a bun. In short, Da Dong duck burgers are now at Building 19, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang. Bite them and weep. Another change we lament is the closing of Saveurs de Coree’s branch on Ju’er Hutong… maybe. We never really went there anyway, so maybe it’s fine that all the operations are moving to the Xiang’er Hutong outpost – it’s not that far from the other one, after all. In happier news, we hear rumors that The Other Place has been bought and will reopen December 30. And we also hear tell that Haven is working on brunch menus. One longtime tradition of food in China remains unchanged: the importing of Western chains to great economic success. That includes Pizza Express, which is opening its third location in Liangmaqiao. Now here’s a question to explore in next month’s column: Do we need this much Pizza Express? Do we? NM

Last month, we attended British Menu Week’s beer-and-cheese tasting, where – to our inebriated delight – stinky, moldy cheeses were paired with ales. We wondered: What else could cheese go with? And then we wondered: Why not green tea? Well, here’s why not: Green Tea with Salted Cheese. This frothy, artificially flavored witches’ brew hails from Happylemon, the sugary-drink mega-chain found lurking in shopping-mall basements and subway-station exits nationwide. Much to our chagrin, it does indeed feature green tea and salted cheese. The latter comes as foam on top of the overly sweet tea, like a latte, if you will. And – surprise! – the two flavors assault our taste buds. Our only advice? Avoid. Salty or not, your cheese deserves to be paired with something better. Available at Happylemon stores across the city, RMB10

H E A D -TO - H E A D / FESTIVE COFFEE

VER SUS Christmas Panettone Flavored Latte

Gingerbread Cookie Latte

意式圣诞拿铁 Available at Starbucks, RMB35 (tall)

姜饼曲奇拿铁 Available at Costa Coffee, RMB33 (small) FIRST IMPRESSIONS

The festive-themed cup is warm and cozy, like the more wholesome sister of the red-tainted beer cups clutched by frat bros across ‘Murica.

The grease-filmed surface and indeterminate floating brown objects leave much to be desired, to say the least.

It tastes like all of Starbucks’ generic milk-based drinks – overwhelmingly sweet and creamy – but with a hint of Christmas.

The ginger game in this latte is strong. And by that we mean: it’s like sipping ginger concentrate (with a dash of milk).

INITIAL TASTE

SECOND SIP

There are distinct floral overtones and fruity undertones in this panetto… we mean massproduced drink.

We get a mouthful of the indeterminate floating brown object and it turns out that it’s not fecal matter after all, but gingerbread pieces.

VERDICT

Da Dong's new duck burger

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The Christmas Panettone Latte is definitely the better looking of the two and wins the award for Most Likely to Give a Toothache. But once you take the time to get to know the Gingerbread Latte, it has more substance (literally). Costa Coffee FTW.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

T H E Y SA I D I T, W E R E A D I T

BA RT I SA N S

Wagas (Sanlitun)

This month, Alexander, who does marketing, promotions, sales and “everything else” for Chinese energy drink Go Player

Ever wondered what kids these days think of some of Beijing’s long-standing foodand-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: Wagas – in light of our favorite cafe upping prices and decreasing serving sizes, we went online to see what others were saying.

The pasta is the best with thick creamy sauce. So perfect!

Not great value and average taste, but I’ve heard it’s supposed to be healthy.

I bought a chicken mango avocado salad, but where is the avocado? Where is the chicken? And where is the mango? PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

All of the cakes and sandwiches are delicious. I will always support them!

N E WS B I T E S

Fit for a Greene King

British brewery Greene King landed itself a priceless endorsement when President Xi Jinping was photographed enjoying a pint of its IPA with British Prime Minister David Cameron during his recent state visit to the UK. According to Peter Bloxham, a Beijing-based British businessman who imports Greene King beer into China, sales of Greene King IPA have rocketed since, leaving Beijing warehouse stocks dry. Due to increased demand, Bloxham plans to import 80,000 bottles in December, up from the usual 6,000 bottles per month. This isn’t just a capital affair: the Xi effect has reportedly been far-reaching, with beer drinkers from Xinjiang to Tianjin thirsty for a taste of the IPA. A Tianjin business owner claimed that customers were offering to pay twice the normal price. “My stocks are nearly all gone,” she told Tianjin Daily. Businesses have indeed been quick to jump onto the beerwagon by highlighting the pub trip in their promotional materials. Signage outside a bar in Beijing includes images of the famous drinking session accompanied by the text, “Come and drink beer here. We have the same Greene King beer that Xi Dada drank.” I guess we’ll have what Xi’s having.

— How is Go Player different from, say, Red Bull? Chinese Red Bull [that comes in short, gold cans] is not connected to International Red Bull [the tall, skinny cans found in the West]. International Red Bull failed in China last year because Chinese customers didn’t really like it. It’s too fizzy, and the smell of taurine is too strong. So for Go Player, we made it in the middle – it’s less fizzy than International Red Bull, but also less sweet than Chinese Red Bull. —Go Player doesn’t have caffeine. So what gives you energy? Taurine – the essence from bulls’ sperm! But ours isn’t real bull semen – that hasn’t been used in energy drinks since the original Thai Red Bull was first started. But taurine is our main energy source, as well as guarana, a Brazilian berry that has a lot of energy, as well as vitamins B6 and B3. —Do you drink Go Player straight, or can you mix it in cocktails? We have almost 40 recipes for cocktails! We have so many – Mojito player, expresso player, screwdriver player… You can try some of them in Janes & Hooch. —Why create an energy drink in China? If we don’t do it, Monster will come to China someday. Other international energy drinks will come to China someday. But right now, we don’t have too many competitors. We are the first in China that’s a real energy drink. Go Player is available at venues throughout the city, including Spark, Halo, Hush, Boombar, Mix, Janes & Hooch and Cheers

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Food is Only Half the Equation wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r

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Nathan Zhang is pretty upset right now. Workers hired by his local authorities are chipping away at his restaurant. Literally. With chisels. They are replacing the hutong exterior with fresh gray cement, cut into rectangles to resemble bricks, as part of a mianzi gongchen, or ‘face project.’ Most other property renters in the area are happy with the free makeover. But Nathan doesn’t want a new face. On one of my visits, he darts in and out of his front door, watching the workers nervously and shaking his head. And on another, he gives the workers outside a stern talking to before allowing them to continue and joining me for tea. “That side of the building belongs to my neighbor, so I can’t do anything,” he explains, gesturing with an air of resignation toward the space to the right of his front door. “But they can’t touch the rest – that’s mine. I’ll fight it.” On Xiang’er Hutong, noodle joints and chuan’r shops stretch all the way from Beixinqiao to Jiaodaokou Nan, and they mostly look the same. Nathan’s place, White Tiger Village, is indeed a chaun’r joint. But it doesn’t look like the others. It stands out. Earlier this year, Nathan began work on his restaurant, which serves Dongbei comfort foods alongside good wine and beer.

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And while his New Zealand lamb skewers are succulent, it’s the establishment’s unique design that may keep customers coming back. With the help of his interior-designer friend Yvonne Lin, Nathan created an openplan kitchen for his restaurant, the focal point of which is a large countertop: chefs chop and stir on one side, customers sit on stools on the other. The rest of the space is filled with two tall tables, surrounded by high chairs, which lend it a casual, almost bar-like vibe. And rather than a traditional hutong color scheme of gray and red, the place is peppered with lemon-yellow accents (“I always liked yellow,” says Nathan with a shrug). But perhaps the best bit is the restaurant’s east wall, which displays different artworks every few months. Currently, a cartoon of a Dongbei police officer, created by Beijing T-shirt brand Plastered 8, looks down on the customers below. White Tiger Village’s design is modern, fun and full of natural light. But not only that – it has fueled the restaurant’s success. And that’s exactly why Nathan’s not happy about forced renovations. “Why do we all have to look the same?” he laments. This is a question many food and drink entrepreneurs are asking lately. For years, Beijing restaurants have largely looked the same. Stroll any residential area and you’ll pass local restaurants whipping up dishes under glaring fluorescent light, and tables lined up in a grid. You’ll pass logos in the

same colors and fonts. You’ll pass waitresses dressed in similar uniforms, handing you identical laminated menus. This sameness may be a hangover from 60s- and 70s-era communist ideals, which encouraged aesthetics of uniformity. But today, a growing number of the city’s restaurateurs are using thoughtful, individualistic design to make their places stand out. In short: dining and designing are no longer separate things. A case in point is 10 Corso Como, seemingly light-years away from the hutongs of Dongcheng in Dawang Lu’s ritzy Shinkong Place. The design house and restaurant from Milan opened its Beijing cafe last month, and when I ask for directions there, marketing manager Rekky Liu sends me a cheerful WeChat voice message: “We’re in front of Armani and next to Chanel!” Shinkong Place is, after all, crammed with more high-end designer brands than a celebrity’s walk-in shoe closet. And 10 Corso Como’s new cafe is no exception. It’s certainly glamorous enough to sit comfortably among its fashion-house neighbors. But it also manages to stand out. Inside the cafe, gorgeous tiles, handpainted by American artist Kris Ruhs to resemble teacup saucers, line the walls. (“Do you go to Milan for fashion week?” Ruhs asks me over Prosecco later, as if that’s something I might regularly, you know, do.) Ironically, it’s the members of the crowd assembled for the cafe’s opening party (a spectacle of performance art executed

entirely with food) that all look the same. Almost everyone is dressed in chic black. I didn’t get the memo, sorry guys. The brand has already flown in Michelinstarred chefs for exclusive dining events, something the 10 Corso Como team plans to continue. The success of the cafe, which established locations in Shanghai, Seoul and Milan before opening in Beijing, suggests that the current trend of incorporating creative design into dining spaces may form at high-end establishments before filtering down to the mass market. But the hutongs suggest otherwise. Popular Gulou cafe Zarah has expanded its offerings beyond the caffeine needs of laptop-warriors by displaying art exhibitions on its walls (part of the semirecent renovations that rendered its design sleek and beautiful). Great Leap Brewing #6 recently completed a renovation combining modern comforts and practicalities with a delightfully preserved traditional hutong aesthetic (as we profiled in last month’s That’s Beijing). Dashilar’s Spoonful of Sugar, meanwhile, is essentially a study in mindful gentrification. The two-story space is airy and full of natural light – but it also features an eco-friendly roof garden and hosts community events. The annoyingly stylish Shanghai is also putting more thought into aesthetics, according to restaurant designer Briar Hickling, who has worked on some of the most famous F&B spaces in China, including celebrity chef Jason Atherton’s Table No. 1. More recently, she partnered with a

From left to right: 10 Corso Como’s new cafe in Beijing’s Shinkong Place (image provided by 10 Corso Como); Nathan Zhang stands in front of artwork by Plastered 8 in his restaurant, White Tiger Village (photo by Holly Li); Custom light fixtures made to represent China’s ancient I-Ching philosophy hang on the ceiling of Shanghai’s Baoism (photo provided by Linehouse Design)

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From top to bottom: White Tiger Village (photo by Holly Li); coffee at 10 Corso Como

Swedish-Chinese architect friend to launch a design studio, Linehouse, which has worked on some of the most high-profile restaurants and cafes in Shanghai. “With design, you can create a story, a narrative,” she explains. “You can make your food and your design have a sort of relationship.” As a trained theater set designer – Briar worked with The Arts Foundation of New Zealand before moving to China seven years ago – she says she prefers designing restaurant spaces because she can “make rituals ‘performative’.” “You can frame certain moments through the use of architecture to give the diner a heightened experience,” she says. For a recent Linehouse project, a baozi shop in Shanghai called Baoism, Briar reinterpreted the ancient Chinese text of I-Ching to create modern custom lights with historical significance – the lines of lights on the ceiling represent the yarrow twigs that people tossed when consulting the I-Ching. It’s inspired, creative and distinctly modern. But why is all this restaurant design work only booming now? Some credit the growth of international influences. A number of uniquely designed restaurant spaces are foreign-owned (10 Corso Como, for example, is Italian, and although Nathan is Chinese, he spent much of his life abroad in Canada). This isn’t to say that local restaurant aesthetics are inherently low-brow. In imperial times, banquet halls were splendid and ornate – something that you can still find today in places like Beihai Park’s Fangshan Restaurant, although they’ve often been overly gussied for tourists. During the first few decades of the People’s Republic, however, such decadence was not tolerated. But since then, 5 4 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

aesthetics have changed. And perhaps more importantly, the economy has changed, too. “It’s not even a trend, you just have to now,” says Nathan of good design. After all, the motivation to create a beautiful restaurant space isn’t purely aesthetic – it’s good business. “There are so many good places now, you have to make your place more and more unique, otherwise there’s no point. I think every single restaurant needs to have its own character. “If you want to open a restaurant right now in Beijing, it’s such a competitive market.” But while this competitive market may be tough for restaurateurs, it’s benefiting us, the diners. Graphic designer Christopher Waters is one such diner. Waters started Design and Dine to bring designers together to chat informally over meals in creativeminded spaces, or, as he says with a laugh: “places like The Smokeyard that just have really good food.” If you are, after all, taking time to appreciate good food, it would appear, you might as well be appreciating good aesthetics too. “Your experience includes eating, smelling, seeing, listening – all different senses. Altogether, they create the whole experience. Together, you have a memory,” says Nathan. Positive memories, of course, are what drive customers to return to certain restaurants. But economics aside, memories on their own are pretty sweet. As Briar puts it: “The most rewarding part is sitting in the space after it’s completed and watching people enjoy it.” I, however, disagree. I’d argue the most rewarding part of all this is sitting in the space after it’s completed – and being the person enjoying it. █

PHOTO BY 徐波/PLACTERED 8

JUST FUN

Holy shit, these are really good noodles. That’s pretty much all you need to know about this place, which is a mere hop-skipjump from Gulou. Other than that, just know that these Chongqing-style noodles are spicy. Chase with Arctic Ocean.

Dongsi Bei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东四北大街香饵

Shuangjing’s Just Fun is just that – and it’s delicious too. The minimalistic design (think white tiles and wooden tables) is complemented by friendly service and hearty Guizhou cuisine. The braised beef stew (RMB45) stands out in particular. The family-owned restaurant plans to expand next year, but until then, this may just be the best place south of Guomao. Chaoyang (down Bakeyang Beijie) 朝阳区广渠路 66 号

We’re only gonna tell you this once, so listen up, Bros: There’s a new Moka Bros in town. Or more specifically, The Place. Same smoothies, same power bowls, same incredible salads. You know what to do.

胡同洞口 (132 6022 6706)

院甲 4 号底商 (5712 4712)

(6587 1368)

PA N G M E I M I A N Z H UA N G ( 胖妹面庄 )

Daily, 10am-10pm; east end of Xiang ’ er Hutong,

Daily, 10am-10.30pm, Building 4, 66 Guangqu,

MOKA BROS

Daily, 8am-10pm, Shop L139A , 9 Guanghua Lu,

Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶东入口L139A号

is R ic e l e e h t f s i s ll You he Ha We Te Worth t

PA P P ’ S T E A

BA K E R & S P I C E

Papp’s is a young, fun tea cafe, not to be confused with PAPs, which are rather intrusive gynecological exams. Not only is Papp’s Tea 100-percent unconcerned with your cervix, it’s making us think maybe tea could be cool again. Vagina jokes aside, a Starbucks-like hangout for tea drinkers is a compelling idea. Watch this one.

Our long, thin lox-and-cream-cheese baguettini is the skinny jeans of bread sandwiches, which means don’t knock it till you try it (RMB68). The best thing about B&S, however, isn’t the sandwiches, or the Wagas-style industrial-chic interiors – it’s the large selection of reasonably priced bottles of wine.

N A PA

Daily, 10am-10pm; west side of Yashow Market, 58

Daily; 8am-8pm; F111 Grand Summit, Dongfang

Gongti Beilu, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路 58 号

Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路19号官舍F111号(8531

Napa, a new restaurant by Chaoyang Park specializing in inoffensive American food, is a good place for people who like their food inoffensive and American. The wicked fresh Caesar Salad slays like Brutus, and a slowburn spicy pumpkin soup is similarly killer. The rest is less standout.

(8418 5615)

5082)

Chaoyang 朝阳区六里屯路中街 20 号

Currently in soft opening, hours TBD; 16 Liulitun Zhongjie (south of Park Avenue April Gourmet),

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tee

ima

lly

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Sugared Ears 糖耳朵

Fried Dough Circle 胶圈儿

Pan Si Bing filled with Red Bean 盘丝饼

Hua Gao 花糕

Zha Gao 炸糕

Jiang Zhi Pai Cha 姜汁排叉

Qie Gao 切糕

Sha Qi Ma 沙琪玛

Xingren Doufu (Almond Tofu) 杏仁豆腐

Roasted Chestnuts 1 0 糖炒栗子 Snack Case 1 1 From right to left: Pea-Flour Cake 豌豆黄 Hawthorn Jelly 京糕 Glutinous Bean Balls 紫米球 Rolling Donkey 驴打滚 Ai Wo Wo 艾窝窝

Traditional Beijing snack shops are teeming with dough and mung bean (and old laobeijing eating them) in various states of fried and unfried. We look behind the counters and street stalls at the sticky, gooey treats within. 11

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MOON LAMB RESTAURANT Get the Damn Lamb

wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

A word of advice to visitors of Moon Lamb Restaurant: Focus on the lamb. Really, focus on it. You will be tempted by dumplings, tofu salads and green-and-yellow laminated papers advertising the health effects of corn drinks (“to drink corn is to drink healthiness,” they say). You will be tempted by piping-hot bowls of soups and stews. You will be tempted by sticky Yanjings, or, god forbid, baijiu. There’s a whole selection of them. You must not give in. Do not heed the siren calls of these edible temptresses. They are nothing but meaningless sidepieces who will only get in the way of your main. Your main is lamb. The Great Kanye West once asked: How you stay faithful in a room full of hoes? The answer is lamb. Really, really good lamb. When your main dish is this wonderful – this hot – it’s not hard to stay loyal. What we’re really trying to say is: Moon Lamb Restaurant’s lamb is good. Moon Lamb Restaurant is an unassuming Inner Mongolian joint in Hujialou. It serves plates of lamb ribs by the half-kilo (RMB88). That sounds like a lot, but you should

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probably go ahead and order that much. The ribs are worth your hypothetical weight gain. Soft, finely spiced meat falls off the bone. Suck the bone. You’ll look dumb, but just do it. The night of our visit, there are so many drivers stopping by to pick up takeout orders that it seems as if all delivery men south of Sanlitun have formed a conga line that wriggles through the restaurant on its way to visit customers. Thus we conclude: The lamb is not only good. The lamb is also popular. We make the mistake of ordering some things that aren’t lamb (hence the above warning). We eat wild nori dumplings (RMB15) and a cold tofu salad (RMB15). They are perfectly passable – good even. Then we eat lamb dumplings (RMB20), which are a marked step up from their nori counterparts. These are even better. And given the price, they’re great. They’re just not lamb. Well they are, just not the lamb. Kanye West also once said: There’s a thousand yous, only one of me. There are a

thousand cold tofu salads in this city. There is only one Moon Lamb Restaurant lamb. (We only save Kanye references for the very best dishes, by the way). A note on the atmosphere at Moon Lamb Restaurant: it pretty much sucks. The decor is of the fluorescent-light-and-plastictablecloths variety. But that does not matter. Attractive trappings would only distract you from your life’s true purpose, which is to eat lamb, of the Inner Mongolian variety, from Moon Lamb Restaurant. To yank fleshy meat off the bone with your teeth. To fondle said meat with your tongue. To run your tongue’s tip along the rib bone’s slender shaft. To devour your plate of lamb ribs, rabidly and feverishly, and upon finishing, to voice your satisfaction into the night with a long, joyous baaa. Moon Lamb Restaurant is worth a visit. In summation: Get the damn lamb. Daily, 10am-midnight, 6 Guandongdian Beilu,

Chaoyang 朝阳区关东店北街 6 号楼 (138 1080 7087)

A FRENCH EMPIRE

How Benjamin Devos Conquered Beijing One Macaron at a Time wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Benjamin Devos doesn’t claim to be a French ambassador. But as founder and owner of Comptoirs de France, he kind of is. Nearly 10 years after its first store opened, the French cafe and bakery is now a common sight on the streets of Beijing. But Devos’ baking history goes back way further. To see just how one man runs an empire, we joined him for chocolate eclairs and a plate of petitsfours. We weren’t hungry, but he jollily insisted. He tends to do that. — Comptoirs de France is called ‘Fapai 1855’ in Chinese. 1855? Really? Our family has a huge farm, over 6,000 hectares in Fontainebleau, France, that stretches over two villages. Since 1855, they’ve been producing flour – a lot of flour. —So did you grow up with bread? It’s everything that I know. Since I was born, I’ve had nice, crispy bread, made with love. In Fontainebleau, it was very normal and easy to have good, fresh bread – so if my

grandmother ever caught me nibbling on yesterday’s bread, she’d yell: “Don’t do that!” —Why start Comptoirs in Beijing? When I came here in 2002, I worked in a hotel and discovered the bread was terr-ible. The only place with a decent croissant was the Kempinski, so I went and met the chef. Then I brought a lot of flour from France, and we started working together. We created a kitchen, brought a lot of good people together and opened shop-by-shop using our own recipes and… voila. —How'd that go at first? First we only sold to expats. One of our shops was in East Lake Villas, where there were 300 apartments. About 260 of them were rented by French people so everybody was calling us the French Embassy. —Since Comptoirs is a family business, will your kids run it after you? That’s the idea. Currently, the kids go back to the family farm at least two or three times a

year to know where we come from, because for me, it’s very important that they know what a tractor is – you know what a tractor is? [Yeah, same word in English]. They also need to work in the field and know that it’s not that easy. If everything goes smoothly, in 10 years’ time we’ll have 50 or 80 shops – they’ll be 15 years old, and they’ll probably need to do an internship first. We’ll try to make them do theirs here. I wouldn’t even have to pay them! They’re my kids! [Laughs.]

Comptoirs de France, in Sanlitun and other locations around the city

朝阳店 CHAOYANG PARK STORE 东湖别墅店 EAST LAKE STORE

TEL: (010) 84511168 B1 of East Lake Villa Club, Dongcheng District 东城区东湖别墅东湖俱乐部地下一层观湖国际店 GREEN LAKE STORE

TEL: (010) 59283525 \ 59283723 A1 Building of GreenLake International Apartment, Chaoyang District 朝阳区观湖国际甲 1 号楼新城国际店 CENTRAL PARK STORE

TEL: (010) 65336791 No. 101, Tower 17, Central Park, NO.6, Chaowai Ave. Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街 6 号新城国际 17 栋 101 海晟店 SEASONS PARK STORE

TEL: (010) 64175815 First floor of Dongchengyishu No.6, Shizipo Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区十字坡街 6 号东城逸墅 1 层逸盛阁店 EAST AVENUE STORE

TEL: (010) 64602658 Room 108 ,East Avenue, No.10 Xindong Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路 10 号逸盛阁 108 室

TEL: (010) 65016249 \ 65931220 West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农展南路 1 号（朝阳公园西门南 60 米）三里屯店 SANLITUN STORE

TEL: (010) 64616928 \ 64635156 No.6 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 6 号芳草地店 RITAN STORE

TEL: (010) 85630626 No.4 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路 4 号香江花园店 RIVERA GARDEN STORE

TEL: (010) 84701557 \ 84704095 No.1 Laiguangying East Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区来广营东路 1 号

建外 SOHO 店 JIANWAI SOHO STORE

TEL: (010) 58692326 \ 58692253 0413 of Building 4, Jianwai SOHO, No. 39 Middle Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路 39 号建外 SOHO4 号楼 0413

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TAFELSPITZ

An Austrian at a Spanish Patio Party wo rd s by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

If anywhere in Beijing were to qualify as a modern-day concession, it would surely be Nali Patio. With balconies overlooking limewashed walls, palm trees and arbitrarily placed mosaics, Sanlitun’s favorite courtyard is – with enough sunshine and suspended disbelief – a genuine slice of Iberia. And while the Spanish are not exempt from local laws (as in the concessions of old), they have established a near monopoly on the building’s food and drink offerings. But now there is an Austrian in their midst. Recently opened on the fourth floor, Tafelspitz is the impeccably dressed Viennese at a Spanish patio party. It is the crisp bottle of Grüner Veltliner in a rack of fruity Riojas; a Haydn symphony performed on the main stage of a Flamenco festival. It stands in stark contrast to its neighbors. But this is no bad thing. Pass through a small, unassuming entrance and the distinction is clear from the outset. White-gloved waiters usher us into an interior of pristine tablecloths and gray chairs, each curved slightly at the back like a chaise longue. Any feeling of being in the Mediterranean soon evaporates. Instead, a subtly executed alpine theme adds a certain refinement without leaving the decor too cold. Perhaps this is a fitting metaphor for a restaurant that offers fine dining without the stuffiness that often accompanies the term. 6 0 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

The menu treads a similar path, balancing delicate presentation against heartier, homier fare. On the ornate end of the spectrum we find the beef tartare (RMB118) – a perfectly seasoned square of Australian Angus topped with a gooey quail egg yolk and decorated at each corner with arrangements of arugula, tomato, onion and flower petals. Yet, formalities are forgotten for the excellent cordon bleu (RMB258) – the closest that continental Europe comes to soul food – which sees Emmental and a thick slice of ham wrapped inside a veal schnitzel casing. We resist the temptation to eat it with our hands, though we suspect they wouldn’t have minded. Elsewhere, the goose roux soup (from the set menu – RMB298 for three courses up to RMB498 for six) comes with root vegetables, chunks of goose and a firm bread-crumb dumpling which softens as the creamy broth is poured from above. But perhaps the real surprise arrives for dessert, in the form of a Salzburger Nockerl (RMB138-198, for 2-3 people). Like a heaving brown cloud, the huge Salzburg-style souffle appears fully puffed at the table, begging to be pierced. Doing so reveals a wonderfully light inside, balanced by sides of sweet strawberries and bittersweet cappuccino ice cream. Before getting too caught up in the detail, we should note that the menu is in regular

rotation. By January, many of the above dishes will have been replaced with new items. But if our visit is anything to go by, Tafelspitz will leave you wondering how you’ve got by without Austrian food for so long. It seems the patio party has just got a little bit more interesting. Daily, 6-11pm (bar 11pm-2am); 4/f, Nali Patio, 81

Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 81 号那里花园 4 层 (5208 6171, www.tafelspitz.cn)

A DV ER T ORI A L | E AT & DRINK

EATING THROUGH THE WINTER BLUES Foods to Keep you Healthy – and Happy – This Winter

IMAGE BY HOLLY LI

Honestly, sometimes we wish we could hibernate. Staying awake through the winter means having to deal with streets of gray snow-sludge, sub-zero temperatures and… don’t get us started on the smog – we’re coughing just thinking about it. So major props to everybody who gets out and exercises despite all this. Seriously, we’re in awe. But let’s be real: most of us stay inside during Beijing’s most brutal months. So how can fair-weather fitness fans emerge from shelter this spring in as good shape as when we entered it? A healthy diet is the best place to start, so we talked to the wellness experts at TRIBE for some seasonal eating tips. “We know the cold weather is perfect for staying indoors and vegetating, but we'd rather you eat some organic vegetables – and meat if you like – then hit the gym like us!” says TRIBE’s Timothy Chia, who adds that it’s extra important to stay healthy amid the deluge of end-of-year parties. “Those gatherings are always filled with an overabundance of tasty, but unhealthy food, and it's easy to go overboard on the food and drink and forget to work out.” (Guilty.) But there’s more to staying healthy than just abstaining from Christmas cookies. There’s science too: During Beijing’s heavy winter smog, less exposure to the sun can lead to a drop in your serotonin levels. That drop, according to Timothy, “can cause depression and food cravings.” So to protect ourselves from the negative effects of smog (in addition to strapping on a mask) we need to make the right food choices. “Aside from loading up on Vitamin D, you can also boost serotonin with whole grains and healthy, highquality carbs like sweet potatoes and pumpkins,” Timothy explains. He’s just looking out for us, bless him. And in order to keep the good people of Beijing healthy and happy, he and the team at TRIBE have created their own natural serotonin boost: a menu designed to keep you in top form throughout the winter. To achieve this, they combined their nutrition knowledge with the (literal) cooking chops of Shanghai-based chef Edgardo Tanael, who brings years of international experience to his creations. Tanael’s ‘Let's Go Wild Grilled Salmon,’ for instance, has enough Vitamin D from oily salmon to keep you – in Timothy’s words – running “like a well-oiled machine.” Meanwhile, the ‘Bigger 1/2 Marinated Roasted Mexican Chicken Adobo’ packs some serious muscle-building proteins (for all that time you’ll be spending in the gym, right?). And back by popular demand, we also see the return of some old TRIBE favorites already proven to boost serotonin and Vitamin C, such as the ‘Proud to be Pumpkin & Watercress Sushi’ and the ‘My Love for Mushroom & Beets’ grain bowl. Pumpkin, salmon, mushrooms and veggies – how’s that for an appetizing antidepressant? Maybe we won’t hibernate after all. NM Try healthy organic dishes at TRIBE, see Listings for details

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COMMUNITY

COMMUNI T Y | T IGER FAT HER

THE TYRANNY OF CHRISTMAS A Time for Presents and Pressure by Tre v o r Ma r s h a l l s e a

“Unlike the bloke whose birthday Christmas celebrates, Santa really is everywhere these days and impossible to escape” Christmas is a time of giving. And, though my mum told me not to mention this, it’s not physically possible to have “giving” without “receiving.” It’s also a time of eating and drinking. It’s a time of families getting together and, perhaps despite that, of being merry. Most of all, though, it’s a time of pressure. When you’re a kid, having made or bought some presents for others, you essentially turn up, open your presents, and stuff your face. But Christmas reflects life in that the older you get, the more pressure it involves. When you reach maturity, you’ll feel that pressure to buy a suitably impressive gift for your special someone. Once, when I lived in London, my girlfriend had three dozen of my favorite food – oysters – specially flown in from France for me. After they arrived I duly handed over her present: precisely four bars of soap. Oh, and I shouldn’t forget – a card. That was a lesson in how to suck at Christmas. But at least she also got a gift that would last forever: an anecdote about lousy boyfriends. And I’ll plead it’s not as bad as some of the other anecdotes out there, involving stepladders, an electric drill, a voucher for a camping store, etc. When you get older still, and become a parent, the pressure peaks. Mostly, there’s pressure to get your stories straight. We have kids, we make noble pledges that we will never, ever, lie to them. And then we tell them there’s a fat, ageless man who inhabits the uninhabitable, and that every December 24 he achieves the impossible – flying around the whole flipping planet with his magical reindeer, giving presents to everyone. Even if you take out all the Muslims, Buddhists, Hindus, voodoo-ists, etc., who don’t do Christmas, that’s still an immensely steep delivery mission. On one hand, it’s no wonder Santa does bugger-all for the rest of the year. On the other, it’s just a very hard fable to sustain for kids whose most influential mode of travel involves not flying reindeer but an information superhighway. 6 2 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

My scientific wife isn’t a fan of Santa. This heartens me whenever I’m in her bad books (“It’s OK. She boos Santa Claus too,” I say) but it did lead to debate about whether we should perpetuate the Santa story with our two girls. In the end we did, probably because, unlike the bloke whose birthday Christmas celebrates, Santa really is everywhere these days and impossible to escape. It is kind of like that creepy song coming true, about Him knowing when you’re sleeping or awake, and precisely how you’ve been behaving.

That decision taken – with some gifts to be credited to Santa and the rest from us – the pressure was on to build the, err, lie. Since we live in a Beijing apartment, I made “footprints” out of talcum powder for the snowy effect, all the way from the front door to our tree. I left a note, written in my left hand, thanking the girls for the cookies and beer. At least those had been genuinely scoffed. That exercise delighted the girls, but proved two things: 1. Talcum powder can take up to a whole day to vacuum up. 2. You need a story for how Santa gets into a locked apartment. (Thankfully our girls were little, so my effort of “Umm, aah, magic!” did the trick.) The following year I got creative, and left puddles of water, for melted snow, on the floor. With Beijing’s heating turned up to 11, these had evaporated by Christmas morning. “I’m glad Santa tried to be more tidy this

year!” I said, and the girls’ suspicions also evaporated. The next year we got tripped up. We were skiing in Canada for Christmas, and took our wrapped presents with us from Beijing. We stashed them in corners of our luggage that the girls would never find, and when they duly found them, several days before Christmas, an interrogation started – of us, by them. “How come the presents are already here when it’s three days before Santa comes?” they said. “Um, we knew we’d be going to Canada, so we had Santa drop them off in Beijing early,” I said, adding, for full Christmas wonder, that it necessitated a special shipping and handling fee. Phew. They were satisfied again (they really weren’t that bright back then). But, like a criminal on the run, I knew our time was almost up. A few months later, our six and five year olds asked me, suspiciously, if Santa really did exist. Without hesitating, I assured them that he most certainly did not. Some parents might mourn a loss of innocence. I just felt relief. I’ve known some people who’ve sustained the myth until their kids were 11 and nine. Sod that. I’d consider that hard work, or what Al Gore might call “An Inconvenient Lie.” Still, some confusion about Christmas lingered. Two years later, in our secular household, I had to explain its origin to our seven-year-old youngest. “That’s terrible!” she cried, to my visible bafflement. “If Jesus’ birthday was on Christmas Day, he’d only get one present a year!” At least, somewhere in that mix up, there was something of the notion of giving.

Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade later. This time around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of his domestic adventures at www.thetigerfather.com

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Carsick Cars @ Chao Sao Festival / Gig

RP Boo Dj

HEAR

Beijing Gang Festival Gig This annual celebration of Beijing’s music scene returns for its third installment with a stacked lineup. Featuring some of the city’s most important bands right now, AV Okubo and Hedgehog (pictured) are among the 10 bands set to perform. For those who need a primer on local bands, this is one not to be missed. Dec 11-12, 8.30-11pm; RMB150-200 (RMB280 for weekend pass); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

This showcase at the Beijing Exhibition Center brings together avant-garde musicians (including indie-pop favorite Li Xiaoyuan, Taiwan’s experimental favorite Qiu Bi and the robot-assisted Liang Huan) in what promises to be a unique celebration of live music and technology. But here’s the real clincher: The one-day festival sees the homecoming of iconic Beijing noise rockers Carsick Cars, the band having spent much of 2015 on tour in Europe and North America. The trio may have matured musically since forming over a decade ago, but they still possess the same raw, youthful energy evident in standout hits like the cigarette-inspired ‘Zhongnanhai.’ What else are you going to be doing on Boxing Day? Sat Dec 26, 8pm; RMB200-360 (RMB600 for VIP passes); Beijing Exhibition Center Theater, 135 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng 西城区西直门外大街135号

Perfume Genius / Gig

Not only is RP Boo a former footwork dancer, he’s one of the originators of the musical genre of the same name. He’s also considered, by many, to have created the first songs labeled as ‘Chicago Juke.’ Enough of the genres. All you need to know is that he’ll be dropping fast, syncopated beats with as many nods to hip-hop as house. Oh, sorry, that was more genres. All you really need to know is that RP Boo makes music for dancing and that’s exactly what he’s been making people do since the early 90s. Sat, Dec 5; RMB60; Dada (see Listings for details)

EB Dj

The Drop presents Moresounds DJ

Described as a “master of dub” and “scholar of jungle” (by his official bio, anyway), Moresounds is one of France’s most exciting underground producers. Keep an eye out for a full interview and ticket giveaway on our WeChat (username: Thats_ Beijing). Fri Dec 11, 9pm; RMB50; Dada (see Listings for details)

While Mao Livehouse usually shakes with the sound of high-octane rock, things will calm a little with the arrival of Seattle singer-songwriter Mike Hadreas (aka Perfume Genius). His haunting, deeply personal ballads address difficult topics like sexuality, his personal struggle with Crohn's disease and domestic abuse, with quietly triumphant results. His third album Too Bright attracted the recognition that the previous two deserved. Co-produced by Portishead’s Adrian Utley, the record received exclusively positive reviews among the 31 featured on Metacritic. That probably says more than we can. But what we will say is, be prepared – Hadreas’ music is heartbreaking stuff. Sat Dec 12, 9pm; RMB140 (presale), RMB180 (door); Mao Livehouse (see Listings for details)

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Inner Mongolia is something of a hotbed for hip-hop and EB is among its most prominent artists. Having been born in a tent and raised by herdsmen, EB first heard hip-hop in the early 00s when he heard Eminem and P Diddy on the radio (although rock has proven equally influential in his sound). Uncompromising and performed entirely in Mongolian, this is Chinese hip-hop at its rawest. Sat Dec 19; RMB80 (presale), RMB100 (door); DDC (see Listings for details)

Shuangjing Showdown Sports

Texas Hold’Em for Charity / Event

The Hutong Winter Fayre Bazaar There’s no better way to get into the spirit of giving and receiving by popping along to The Hutong Winter Fayre. The ‘warm-winter’ theme means there’ll be plenty of stuff (think: hot cups of mulled wine) to keep you nice and toasty as you browse through locally produced goods made and sourced from the community. The products include homemade jams, teas, handicrafts, photography and jewelry. A good opportunity to get all your Christmas shopping done (and spend time with friends and family, we suppose) before the inevitable last-minute rush. Make sure you don’t miss out, as this is pretty much the last Christmas bazaar of the year. Sat Dec 12, 11am-4pm; free; The Hutong, 1 Jiudaowan Zhongxiang, Dongcheng 东城区九道湾中香1号 (159 0104 6127)

Beijing’s baddest amateur fight league is back for Round Three. Shuangjing Showdown pits fighters against each other in boxing, Muay Thai and MMA battles for a show that packs quite the punch (or kick to the head). But this time around the showdown has leapt beyond its eponymous ‘hood to Gongti – all the more convenient for you hutong weasels to reach by bike. Jing-A is the official (de-)hydrator of the event, so if fighting’s not your thing, maybe beer is? Pints will be going for a reduced rate all day long (RMB30 for Mandarin Wheat or Worker’s Pale Ale, RMB40 for cider). Food, meanwhile, is brought to you by Shuangjing stalwart Plan B. After the fight, weave and bob your way over to the Jing-A Taproom, host of the official after party, where you’ll get happy hour prices until midnight. Sat Dec 5, noon-5pm; RMB200 presale, RMB250 at the door; BabyFace Club, 9 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西路6号; see www.shuangjingshowdown.com for tickets and information

Just because November is over doesn’t mean you can’t still participate in Maovember, the charity event that, this year, is donating money to prevent and treat blindness in rural China. Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q is hosting a Texas Hold’Em tournament with all proceeds going to the charitable cause. An RMB500 entrance fee gets you into the tourney, as well as six full hours of free-flow drinks, barbecue and snacks. Gambling may be outlawed in the Chinese Mainland, but playing for charity doesn’t count, right? Sun Dec 6, starts 3pm; Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q (see Listings for details); to reserve your seat call (6591 9161)

Public China in Fifty Objects / Tour

Kempinski’s Ice World Sport

Kizomba Workshop Dance

This month is your last chance to get slow and sensual with Migas’ Kizomba workshops. Come for the one-hour workshop in sexy Angolan dance, stay for the equally sexy drinks by The Bar at Migas. Tue Dec 5, 9pm; free; The Bar at Migas (see Listings for details)

Join Newman Tours to explore the human history of China through 50 of the most celebrated art objects in the National Museum. The new heated indoor tour examines items such as 4,000-year-old bronzes used in live burials through to priceless Buddhist sculptures taken from the Silk Road. Tours must be booked in advance. Every Sunday, 2-4pm, RMB120 children, RMB190 adults, National Museum 东城区东长安街16号 (6511 6400) (bookings via 138 1777 0229 or info@newmantours.com)

Get your skates on and head down to Kempinski’s Ice World – a unique adventure at the first hotel garden ice rink in Beijing. An entertaining winter outdoor activity for the whole family, and open for public or private events. Daily, Dec 1 through Mar 1; Kempinski Hotel Beijing Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号 (6465 3388 – 4072, booking via meetings.beijing@kempinski.com)

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The Final Countdown (Remixed) Party

Star Beef Carpaccio Pizza and Stella Artois / Holiday Deal

TA S T E

Christmas Eve at Migas Dinner China’s Spanish Embassy (Migas) is having a Christmas Eve blowout, and it starts with food. Kick the holiday off with several courses of deliciousness. Iberico pork tataki, rouge foie gras terrine and risotto with dry-aged wagyu beef are all on the menu. Add a glass (or bottle – it is a holiday, after all) of Anna de Codorniu, at a special price for the event. Merry Christmas indeed. Or should that be Feliz Navidad? Thu Dec 24; RMB388 per person; Migas (see Listings for details)

Jing-A is counting down to the new year with a different deal each hour. From 5-6pm, for example, grab a batch of mala popcorn chicken for half price, and from 9-10pm, Jameson pickleback shots are RMB30. Running until 2am, the party’s got 10 different specials throughout the night. That’s a lot of booze. If you can handle all that and are still ready for more, head to Migas for the afterparty – discounted tickets is the last special of the night. Thu Dec 31, 4pm-2am; Jing-A Taproom (see Listings for details)

The World of Seafood Dinner

New Year’s Eve at Bistrot B Dinner

If Bistrot B were a person, she’d be a classy lady with elegant taste. Her New Year’s Eve dinner is no exception. Dine on elegant risottos, lobsters, arctic shrimps, mussels, pastries… you better believe there’ll be truffles. Thu Dec 31; RMB1,150 per person, RMB1,450 per person with wine, plus 15 percent service charge; Bistrot B, 1/2F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼京广中心北京瑰丽酒店一层及二层 (6536 0066)

Top Beijing chefs Alexander Sanchez (Niajo), Omar Maseroli (Mercante), and Taka Yamamoto (Sake Manzo) are joining forces once again for their final collaboration of the year: a six-course dinner event. ‘The World of Seafood’ sees two dishes from each chef (specially created around the theme of – you guessed it – seafood) paired with sake by Yamamoto, Beijing’s resident Japanese sake master. Thu, Dec 3; RMB498 per person; Happi Sake (see Listings for details), for reservations, call (6582 8216)

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If pizza is the star of the Napoli-style restaurant Bottega, then a star-shaped pizza has got to be the brightest of them all. Right? We think so. We sampled Bottega’s new Star Beef Carpaccio Pizza this month, and all we can say is, well, damn. The pizza was made to go along with Stella Artois, which Bottega serves on tap. “Stella means star in Italian,” explains General Manager Daniele Salvo, who will be giving away a free draft Stella with every one of the special pizzas ordered from December 23-29. We tried out the combination in advance, naturally. The Star Beef Carpaccio Pizza was bursting with flavors – crunchy arugula, fresh beef carpaccio and soft mozzarella, all sat atop a fluffy bread crust. Bottega’s ingredients are imported from Italy and it shows – you simply can’t get pizza like this anywhere else in Beijing. We accompanied it with a pint of Stella, and its crisp finish washed down the savory pie to delicious effect. Admittedly, we were feeling greedy. So we washed a few other things down, too – gently tossed salads, freshly made gnocchi, pastas. The pizza may be the star at Bottega (in this case, literally), but that doesn’t mean you should stop there. If we’d had longer, we would have munched our way through even more dishes, and probably guzzled a couple more pints, too. The Salvo brothers behind Bottega’s pizza ovens (very expensive and also imported from Italy) take their food seriously. So when these guys recommend a pairing, you know it’s gonna be good. Available through Dec, RMB128; Bottega, 18 Sanlitun Beilu, (down the alley opposite Page One), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路18号 (6416 1752)

3DPRK / Photography

Half-way into the Garden Art

SEE Red Angel Film

The second edition of Culture Yard’s ‘China Through Japanese Eyes’ film series shows a young Japanese nurse on the frontlines of the second Sino-Japanese war in 1939. Director Yasuzo Masumura views war through a critical lens, showing that it was damaging not only to soldiers, but also to lesser-seen groups. Sun Dec 6, 7-10.30pm; RMB50 (RMB20 for CY students); Culture Yard (see Listings for details)

Pékin Fine Arts presents 3DPRK, a collection of images from North Korea by Slovenian photographer Matjaz Tancic and Beijing-based DPRK art specialists Koryo Studio. Tancic used a 3D stereoscopic technique to capture intimate photographs of people from across North Korea. The special collection shows a range of identities, including ordinary workers, educators, athletes, entertainers in Hamhung (North Korea’s second largest city) and others from across the country (as well as citizens of the capital, Pyongyang). It's a slice of North Korea but perhaps not as you know, or assume, it to be. Offering a rare glimpse into everyday moments not otherwise cataloged, Tancic seeks to “present the actual people I met in North Korea – [who] neither fit into the domestic propaganda of a mighty and triumphant North Korea, nor into the international image of a country that can only be either castigated for its crimes or mocked for its poverty.” An eye-opening exhibition that’s not to be missed. Dec 13–20 Feb; free; Pékin Fine Arts, 241 Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang 朝阳区草场地村241号 (5127 3220)

Tabula Rasa Gallery invites you to take a stroll through the garden this month with a new solo exhibition by Beijing artist Yuan Yuan. In the painter’s first solo exhibition since 2011, she magnifies intimate garden scenes, conveying a part rather than the whole, to beguiling effect. Through Jan 3; free; Tabula Rasa Gallery, 706 North Third Street, 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 706北三街 (5762 6353)

Giselle Ballet

TEDxBeijing2015 / Talk

Graham Elwood Comedy

American comic Graham Elwood may be in town for just one night, but it’s set to be a rollicking one. Featured on Comedy Central’s The Sarah Silverman Program and The Late Late Show on CBS, the comedian has a second-degree yellow belt in karate, which apparently means he “has the strength and skill to fight a puppy and the elderly.” Safe to say Elwood’s show will make laugh, not war. Thu Dec 3, 8pm; RMB180 at the door, RMB100 students, RMB150 presale; The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

As the end of the year approaches, there’s no better time for a bit of introspective education. TEDxBeijing has got you covered with its annual year-end event, complete with 10 expert speakers covering a range of subjects including the linguistics of music, the future of urban farming, women’s health, sustainable economic development, design and cutting-edge tech. Here are our picks of the speakers: Stuart Oda: Co-founder of Alesca Life, a company promoting green farming by growing 100 percent pesticide-free food in shipping containers. Helen Hai: United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) Goodwill Ambassador for industrialization in Africa, as well as CEO of the Made in Africa Initiative. Dr. Tian Jishu: An obstetrician engaged in clinical practice for nearly 10 years, whose books are among the best sellers in China. He will speak about the implications of the updated Two Child Policy. Sun Dec 6, 2-6pm; RMB100 (presale); RMB280; 5/F Building C, The Place (Cosmopolitan Plaza), 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲9号世贸天阶C 座时尚大厦5层 (tickets available tedxbeijing.com)

Performed by the National Ballet of China, Giselle is set in two contrasting worlds: The simple underwater life of ocean creatures and the glitzy lifestyle of humans. This classic ballet was created to celebrate the bicentenary of Hans Christian Anderson’s birth. John Neumeler’s modern interpretation of the tale is a fitting tribute to the Danish poet. The Little Mermaid redux. Dec 4-6; RMB280-1280; Opera House of NCPA, 2 West Chang'an Ave, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 (tickets available via sales@theatrebeijing. com)

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WEEKLY SPECIALS

Happy hours Meal deals Brunch

Food and Drink

Ladies' nights

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar The origins of the ‘Power Hour’ are murky. Probably because whoever invented the Power Hour forgot how they invented it. For those non-North Americans unfamiliar with the term, Power Hours are essentially studies in mindful, focused binge-drinking. They are a one-way ticket to drunktown. The way it works is this: For one hour, you take a shot of beer every 60 seconds. Preferably you switch the song every 60 seconds, too, from one cheesy 90s throwback to the next, but hey, that part’s up to you. In the UK it’s called ‘Centurion’, but it’s 100 minutes rather than 60, because Brits can handle it, apparently. Does this appeal to you? Great, it does to Palms, too. The L.A.-style bar and restaurant offers one of the best happy hour deals in town for its Power Hour Fridays. Fortunately, there are two ways their version differs from the American college one: you don’t have to take forced shots of shitty beer, and the deals last longer than an hour. Rather, grab buy-one-get-one cocktails, as well as RMB15 shots, from 5.30-6.30pm and 9-10pm. Don’t be fooled by the fact that it’s a restaurant. Palms is one of the greatest drinking spots in town. The margaritas are especially killer – try the coconut or tamarind one for a welcomed twist on a classic. > Every Friday, 5.30-6.30pm; Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar (at both locations, see Listings for details)

M O N DAY to FR I DAY MONDAY Mai Bar Buy two cocktails, get one free. > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

MONDAY TO THURSDAY XIU Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, 6-9pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)

MONDAY TO FRIDAY One East Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per person, 12:00-2:30pm. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿酒店2层 5865 5030 Great Leap Brewing 11.30am-2pm, free soft drink or juice with any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Pale Ale #6. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see Listings for details) Hagaki Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge. 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Jing Yaa Tang Set lunch, RMB88/person, 4 for 3. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11

Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6140 5230) Agua Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ person for three courses. > RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Greyhound Café Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details) Village Café Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB88+15% (2 courses) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5210)

MONDAY TO SATURDAY Twilight Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, RMB20 off cocktails. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 (5900 5376)

TUESDAY Flamme Two-for-one steak all day. > 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)

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Pebbles Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as you want. > Midday to midnight; 74 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同74 号 (8404 0767)

TUESDAY TO FRIDAY S.T.A.Y Restaurant Three courses including coffee and tea for RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Mosaic Buy-one-get-one-free pizza every Wednesday lunchtime at Mosaic. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Xian Whiskey night, discounts on special selected whiskeys. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9810)

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

Great Leap Brewing All day Wednesday, one select beer at RMB25. > At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see listings for details)

Domain Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger promotion. > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9830)

Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西门58号 (6551 2373) 4Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ weekly celebration of KTV. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

Opus Terrace Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)

FRIDAY Mesh House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 free. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)

CITY SCENES Tennis superstar Li Na poses with China General Manager of Pierre Fabre and a very happy school principal, recipient of funds from the stars' Avene x Elle charity dinner

Sunglass-wearing ladies-who-lunch entirely too cool for the dads behind them at EAST Beijing’s Halloween brunch

You know that feeling you get when the fleeting nature of human existence just, like, hits you? This dude at Jing-A’s Halloween Beer Mile does

A Marriott International Tianjin Cluster GCAW event in the Renaissance Tianjin Lakeview Hotel kicks off in style

Leather-cowl-neck-vest-wearing DJs are the best DJs, or so proves DJ D’Jack at the China World Hotel’s Thursday Lush Ladies Night at Aria Bar

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 6 9

LISTINGS OPEN DOOR

RESTAURANT

The Hot One Hundred About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

CHINESE Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界酒店2层 (5960 8822)

Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is the place for mountainous shaved ice desserts and creamy bubble teas. > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. com.cn for details

No 16 Courtyard 后海16号 (Beijing) Houhai No. 16 is a courtyard restaurant in Houhai, specializes in dishes once served for the government in the imperial times, with customizable menus. ¥380/person (without drinks)Open: 11.30am-9pm

> D4, Dajin Hutong. Xicheng District, 西城区后海大金丝胡同4号 010-83226461,13716551797 www. houhai16.com

Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) Resembling something between a nightclub and a theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes.

HERITAGE Fit for a (French) King If you’re going to spend your Sunday afternoon brunching, you might as well do so lavishly, right? Heritage French Restaurant at the Sofitel Wanda Beijing does just that. On our visit, not only was there a trio of classically-trained string instrumentalists playing elegant tunes, but there was also a table of champagnes. Yes, we just said table of champagnes. This is serious brunching. Fortunately, the food is serious too. We feasted on Japanese scallops with caviar, foie gras rougie and fantastic Maine lobsters, all while nibbling on fresh croissants between each course. Heritage takes its French food seriously, so expect delicate, exquisite flavors paired with attentive service. And champagne. Did we mention the champagne? Ultimately, Heritage’s Allure Sunday Brunch makes for a great way to relax away the afternoon. And that’s exactly what we did. > Sundays, 11.30am-3pm; RMB328 for five courses (RMB238 for wine pairings), RMB418 for eight courses (RMB318 for wine pairings); Heritage, Sofitel Wanda Beijing (see Listings for details) 7 0 | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)

Expensive...................................¥ Expense Account ....................¥¥ Highly Recommended ..............* Top Ten ....................................**

Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadongdadong.com for more locations

Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

Shanghai Shanghai Min 小南国 Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469)

Sichuan/Hunan Chuan Ban 川办 * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of China, including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce.

South Memory 望湘园 This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with locals.

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)

> Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. southmemory.com for more locations

Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese restaurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, so expect sweet and delicate and sweet flavors with impeccable presentation.

Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 The menu here is old-fashioned and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

> Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666)

Peking Duck Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations

Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into

LISTINGS

> Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com for other locations.

Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Chinese dining at its best.

> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

Yunnan Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect district for Yunnan food, and this little gem is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town. > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318)

Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian)

Regional Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites.

OPEN DOOR

> Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281)

Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway. Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational.

PHOTOS BY HOLLY LI

chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service complete the experience.

> Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800)

Makye Ame (Tibetan) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb.

DK1308

> Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号 (6506 9616)

Winter Feasting, German Style

ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shaobing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good. Queues of locals are testament.

The arrival of a new season (winter, if you hadn’t noticed) means the arrival of a new seasonal beer from DK1308’s brewmaster Andreas Roehrl, whose family developed the recipes over 300 years ago. While his new creation is fermented in the style of a wheat beer, it actually combines three grains (wheat, rye and barley malt). And to complement the amber, 5.5 percent alcohol brew, Chef Daniel Kuttner has prepared a special winter menu. Start with a mixed salad with crispy pumpernickel crumble, walnuts, poached pear and orange dressing, followed by the Brussels sprout soup with bacon bits. Next up are hearty mains, which include a tender seared leg of venison under rye crust with cranberry sauce, spaetzle noodles and carrot mousse; glazed duck breast with honey sauce, pommes macaire and red cabbage; and truffled Tyrolean rye dumpling filled with potato, cheese and chives, served with creamy spinach. No German feast is complete without a sweet, and the Iced Christmas Stollen parfait with rum-marinated fruits hits the spot. Prost! > Prices TBC; Available until the end of January 2016; DK1308 (see Listings for details)

> Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like dapanji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)

WESTERN Fine Dining

An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)

Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.

> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Dumplings Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food. > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommendation the prices have risen and the walls are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)

Aria ¥¥ (European) * A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Piedmont wine it is named after.

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151)

Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

> Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea. > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727)

Héritage ¥¥ A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with Michelin star restaurant experience and an extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight

BLUE FROG Hop on Over We probably don’t have to tell you about Blue Frog – you already know. The popular burger joint has been churning quality patties and fries for years now. And who doesn’t love Blue Frog’s Monday deal? (If you don’t know, it’s buyone-get-one burgers. You’re welcome.) But just because Blue Frog’s a Beijing classic doesn’t mean the place isn’t keeping it fresh. We sampled their new menu, and we absolutely loved the new BBQ & Avocado Burger (RMB108). The Australian-beef patty is as rich and tender as ever, but it’s given a bit more of a refreshingly healthy twist with the avocado (at least we think the avocado makes it more healthy... right?). An undeniably healthy option is the Pepper Seared Tuna Nicoise Salad (RMB108), which is rich in Omega-3 fatty acids and low-fat protein. It’s a nutritious take on the traditional French-style Nicoise. But if you’re not looking for healthy – and hey, we don’t judge – add the succulent beef sliders for RMB88.. > Daily, 10am-late; In Sanlitun: S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, 19 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区三楼S2-30 (6417 4030); In Chaoyangmen: 1/F, Bldg 1, U-Town, Sanfeng Beili, Chaoyang 朝阳区三丰北里悠唐生活广场1号楼1层(8561 2665); In Guomao: 15-16, 1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean International Center, 10 Jingtong Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际中心AB座1层15-16单元(8590 3168); In Indigo Mall: 167, 1/F, Indigo, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区颐堤港店酒仙桥路18号1层167号(8426 0017) W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7 1

to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu.

>Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 (5695 8888)

S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics kitchen concept, which includes a mouthwatering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for international standard fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232)

Contemporary Western Alﬁe’s ¥ (British) What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

Caribeño (Latin) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes from all over the Latin continent here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos.

Stuﬀ’d (Contemporary Western) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308)

VIC Not to be confused with the notorious nightclub of the same name, this VIC is the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restaurant. All the major world cuisines are in attendance here – make you pay special attentions to the French-inspired breads and pastries – as is the customary Sunday champagne brunch. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Yi House (Contemporary Western) Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Café/Deli/Sandwich Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. Gets cozy at night.

> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069)

Café Zarah (Café) * A smart new interior and menu for this longstanding cafe has propelled it from hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, airy and with a terrace for summer, the only downside is it’s always packed. > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

Café Flatwhite

> Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

> Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 67号 (6445 7076)

> Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

Grill 79 (Steak) With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

Miss K Cafe (Xing Fu Cafe) Whether it’s a rainy morning or a sunny afternoon, relax with your favorite novel and a cup of freshly brewed coffee. Experience a quiet moment of serenity amid the hustle and bustle of Beijing. >Daily, 8am-8.30pm; 1/F, Tower A, East Gate Plaza, Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东环广场A座一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096)

Missa (European) Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet, you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant.

> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

> Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

Ricci Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit (duh), this creative café has a funky, kookymeets-organic vibe and serves up some of the best casual western food in town, and a great brunch at the Wudaokou location (Chaoyang branch closed weekends).

> Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

TRIBE * Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic, and there are more superfoods in one single dish than we even knew existed. Come hungry, leave basking in the warm, glow that comes from knowing that you are eating well. Kombucha is the icing on the (organic, locally-sourced) cake. > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 8587 1899

American/BBQ/Grill

> Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; 1 Sanlitun Soho Store: B1-239, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路8号院, 三里屯SOHO, 2号楼B1-239 (5785 3762 / 15910944325); 2) 751 D-Park Store: No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区751动力广场 (6432 2798 / 13522120390);3) 798 Dashanzi Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区酒仙桥路4 号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / 13051771436); 4 China Central Mall Store (Hua Mao): China Central Mall, Room L315, 81 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区建国路81号L315 8588 7978 / 15652922791);5) Jianguomenwai DRC Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号建国门外外交公寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189) www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafeflatwhite@hotmail.com, WeChat username: Cafe-Flatwhite

Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, with somewhat questionable price tags.

> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 8号楼833 (6417 1318)

MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary Western) * Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)

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Union Bar and Grill The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff. The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)

The Woods *

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide ranging menu has something for everyone, especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types.

> Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional locations in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads and brunch options, all served alongside some of the best coffee in Beijing.

Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 2号院 (6591 9161)

> 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 号院清华科技园D座1楼 8215 8826 )

Wagas (Contemporary Western) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town. The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

Chi (Organic, Fusion) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced. From the owners of neighboring Saffron.

C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh shells from Canada, South Africa, France, USA and more – and they are well worth the price. The fries are the best we’ve had in Beijing, beer and wine selection also excellent.

MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent.

The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com)

Home Plate BBQ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

NOLA N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)

Tim’s Texas BBQ * Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn homestyle briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s recommended. > Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14

New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)

Burgers Blue Frog This Shanghai hamburger franchise has been keeping Americans in China obese since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed.

> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Burger Bar Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and truffles. Burger King this ain’t. > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)

Chef Too ¥ With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town. > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

Steak 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号2层 (6584 6270))

Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contemporary Western) ¥¥ * The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order.

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

O’Steak A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic French bistro – not a Guinness in sight.

> Daily midday-midnight, Xingfu: No.55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, opposite of April courmet, Chaoyang 朝

LISTINGS 阳区幸福村中路55-7杰作大厦底商绿叶子超市斜对面 8448 8250 > Central Park: No.o103 building 20, Central Park, No.6 Chaowai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际20号楼103 6533 6599 > shunyi: No.11-102 Shine Hills, No.9 Antai Avenue, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪安泰大街9号祥云小镇南门 11号楼102 8048 5080

Flamme (Contemporary Western) Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail menu.

> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场269号 (8420 0270)

Mexican/Tex Mex Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 (6416 5212)

Taco Bar Rising from the ashes of its deceased hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, popular and able to produce some of the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only RMB45 for three and great cocktails to complement.

> Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研究院内10号1层 (6501 6026)

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (KoreanMexican fusion) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Cali’ cocktails, too. > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)

Italian Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508)

Bene ¥ * Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Cepe ¥ In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666)

Isola Bar & Grill Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza. > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com; 6416 3499)

Mercante ¥ * Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains. > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Opera Bombana ¥ Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his

wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and certainly the only to have opened a restaurant in Beijing. > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)

Pizza Tube Station Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be the biggest in town. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

La Pizza Among the upper echelons of Beijing pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branches in Solana and pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3

> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990)

Spanish Agua ¥ * Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 (5208 6188)

Migas ¥ * The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations.

> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 6层 (5208 6061)

Niajo ¥ * With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is prime Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain (minus the constant sunshine).

ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi branch worth it.

> CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com

> Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

Malacca Legend

Biteapitta * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 层 (6467 2961)

Rumi (Middle Eastern) Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.

> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)

Asian Indian Raj Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authentic Indian, espcially the rather fine naan. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675))

Bhoomi Store Indian Food Shop Bhoomi stores One stop destination where a wide range of Indian & Pakistani food products are served. 266 Yaohong Lu，by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang district，(021-2428 3400)

> Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm 闵行区姚虹路266号, 近红松东路

Ganges Conveniently located above popular Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer. > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details.

Indian Kitchen

African/Middle Eastern 1001 Nights There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The whole Arabic dining package is on offer here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.

> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor

> Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Li Sanlitun then.

Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (truly – when they say 1308 they mean it) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site).

> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

German

Paulaner Brauhaus The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccalegend.com)

Flor de Loto Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Korea-town.

> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 3层 (5208 6052)

> Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 层(6503 5555)

Malaysian food with a view, this spacious and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for their beef rendang or green curry prawns.

> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation and very available on JinShiSong online delivery.

Purple Haze (Thai) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town. Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45).

> Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255

> Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

South-East Asian 4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with frequent live indie performances. > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)

Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors.

Susu (Vietnamese) The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish. > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)

Japanese Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) As much a California roll joint as true Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists. > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号

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和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Inagiku * This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near to perfection as you’re likely to find. Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to be missed.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 (8517 2838)

Happy Sake (Japanese) When it comes to sake, owner Taka Yamamoto is an expert, responsible for around 80 percent of all high-quality sake imported to China. His restaurant is dedicated to food meant to be enjoyed with sake. Stylish and relaxed, high-quality and affordable - Happi Sake hits all the right notes.

Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2 层0260 (5900 1288) Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

> 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, www.cujubeijing.com

Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city.

Daily Routine 日常生活 This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and the drinks at this establishment change seasonally according to ingredient availability. Light cafe fare is available during the day.

> Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同19号. (6446 2073)

BARS TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

> Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-midnight; Jia 2, Tuanjiehu Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北路甲 2号(6582 8216)

Sake Manzo * The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town.

> Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608)

Sui Ka Is this what after-work hangouts are like in Japan? We’re not sure, but we hope so: This charming izakaya nails it when it comes to sake selection and fried delights to munch alongside it. Daily 5pm-1am, Ichibangai First Avenue Food Court, Zaoying Nanli, Maizidian, East 3rd Ring Road > Chaoyang朝阳区东三环农展馆北路宾都苑东侧一层底商一番街内 (137 1692 7543)

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6层 (6581 0072)

Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu RMB1,000), but what would you expect from some of the best sushi in town? Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above. > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)

Korean Ai Jiang Shan This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain.

Arrow Factory The newest craft beer taproom on the block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway brimming with good Anglo-ScWEEandinavian vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales. A winning combination > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号（6407 6308）

8-Bit Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable RMB25 a glass.

> Daily, 1pm-2am, 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 北锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538))

BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) The brainchild of local spirits professional Douglas Williams, this bar provides the discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and straight-razor shaves.

> 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com)

The Brick A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.

> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Capital Spirits A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely hutong setting, friendly owners and great bottle collection.

> Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. com)

> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags.com for other locations

China Bar ¥¥ Top views from the 65th floor and flash drinks are the attractions on offer at this hip hotel bar.

Saveurs de Coree This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true.

CICADA Ultralounge ¥ The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost.

> Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Vegetarian Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and they offer cooking classes as well. > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D,

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)

> Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9898)

Cu Ju Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destination and sports fan’s manna all rolled into one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering North African food with an international cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums and sports broadcasts from basketball to cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best all-around bar-restaurants.

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> 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159

El Nido * The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally.

> Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园D405室 (5208 6076)

First Floor First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company. At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps. // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)

Fubar Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name. Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.

> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

Glen ¥ Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. See for yourself. > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)

Glen Classic ¥ Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号 (6551 6788)

Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good. Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. greatleapbrewing.com)

Heaven Supermarket A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415 6513)

Hidden Lounge * Although frustrating to find, Hidden

Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Ichikura ¥ One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails. Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge. > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

The Irish Volunteer Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路 311号 (6438 5581)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails. > Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 4号院 ( 6503 2757)

Jing-A Taproom ** In just a few years, these guys developed from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding publicans with their own range of souvenir T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-andmortar taproom, which is large, warm and sociable, and has up to 16 different beers on tap. > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院

Maggie’s ¥ A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture. > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南门 (8562 8142)

Mai Bar * Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town.

> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)

Mao Mao Chong ** The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)

Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).

> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Parlor Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.

> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)

Revolution * Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍 * A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

LISTINGS > NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086)

drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught.

> Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

> Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 202 (131 6107 0713)

The Tree A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

School Bar 学校酒吧 * Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)

Trouble Bar Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft beers. Stocks a large draft selection and an even larger selection of bottles. Also does a nice line in creative cocktails, if brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to accommodate any event, meetings, and gatherings.

> 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, troublebar@gmail.com, www.trouble.bar)

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** This popular microbrewery has its own pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. Quality ales that change depending on the season, heated floors and a great little kitchen round out the deal. > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

10 Best Livehouses Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Great little livehouse near Meishuguan with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly. > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969)

Hot Cat Club 热力猫 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space. > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 46号(6400 7868).

Jianghu 江湖酒吧 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the gethome-for-the-babysitter crowd. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@gmail.com)

MAO Livehouse 光芒 * From the denim-jacketed doorman to the well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hitting this side of the Drum Tower.

> 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山 Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines. > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

Temple 坛 * Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long

> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711）

Sports Bars The Den At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking spectrum from Centro, The Den is a seedy sports joint that starts off sedate and grows steadily sadder as night turns to day. It can get rough and ready come dawn. Solid (cheap) menu, good location and those opening times earn it a place. > Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边

> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989)

MIX A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix is one of those places in Beijing you have to experience before you leave. Not much is forbidden in this underground hip-hop disco palace and if you don’t leave with hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong. > Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ sohu.com

Vics Separated at birth from its identical twin brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti sweatbox meat-market chic at its very finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics to become one of the most infamous clubs in the capital. > Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333)

Hotel Bars Atmosphere ¥¥ Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.

> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

The Local * Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another.

Centro ¥ Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini.

Paddy O’Shea’s * An entire Irish-themed pub, which could easily been trasnsported, untouched, from a back alley in Limerick and gently deposited in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports.

Xian ¥ This enlongated bar space makes a nice spot for refreshment after a day spent shopping at neighboring Indigo.

> Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6591 9525)

> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

V Sports Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars. > Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)

Nightclubs The Bar at Migas * A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man.

> Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 1层 (6561 8833)

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)

BEAUTY & FITNESS Brad Clinic Welcome to Brad Clinic, Beijing’s unique skincare and anti-aging center. Our professional and personalized treatments rejuvenate the skin safely, naturally and most effectively while restoring your skin’s natural beauty and health. We offer: skin rejuvenation and re-firming, hair removal, acne and sun spots treatment, and wrinkle reduction.

>Tue-Sat 9am-6pm, Room 2103, Tower E1, The Towers, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang’An Ave, Dong Cheng 东城区东长安街1号东方广场东方经贸城E1办公楼2103室 (8518 2103/ 5688, contact@BradClinic.com)

Daisy’s Beauty Salon

> Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)

> Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

> Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B 栋101室 (183 1108 0818)

Lantern * Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up a natural tan. When it finally reaches the warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give you that golden glow with its quick, safe and effective technology. With a membership card, enjoy a 50-minute session for RMB400 and come away with natural, healthy-looking color.

> Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区工体北路三里屯Soho3 号楼2层217 (5785 3711, jusonghao@hotmail.com); > Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI International Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广场3层T—5 (84722855)

Beijing Hikers Want to experience the wild, unrestored Great Wall, away from the tourist masses? Or do you just want to get out of the city for some exercise? Beijing Hikers offers hikes in the countryside of Beijing every week all year round. Hikes for all fitness levels! Regular hikes are priced from RMB380, with discounts for members. Cost includes hiking guide, transportation, tickets, food and water. We’ve also got adventures all over China. > For more information, visit www.beijinghikers.com

Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls. > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Chocolate It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows.

Dada * It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene.

Black Golden Tanning Studio 古铜日晒中心

Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has catered to thousands of Beijing expats and locals and is renowned for its premium waxing services and imported wax that smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t your thing, the salon also specializes in an array of other treatments including IPL Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 90-minute treatment that uses a laser to stimulate collagen production and soften lines. The salon’s slimming treatment is also proving popular and effective. > Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building B,Sunshine100 International Apartment, Guanghua Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际公寓B座301室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeautysalon.com)

Jindaﬁt Created by D’Jack Tchinda, Jindafit is a fullbody workout that turns African dance and music into seamless sequences that burns fat, tones muscles and relax your mind. Jindafit can be joined by everyone; there is not limitation to your level of fitness. Thanks to the combination of inspiring music, easy-to-follow choreography and great results, Jindafit is a promise to rock the fitness world. > Contact: jindafit@outlook.com; T: 188-0132-1096; facebook.com/jindafit; Instragram: @jindafit

JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with over 18 years of experience in Beijing. They provide a full range of surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their standard for service is focused on maintaining the best technologies in the field of cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful results safely. > Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn)

Alona Pilates Studio Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in-

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novative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels.

cent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule.

> www.heyrobics.com, info@heyrobics.com

Yihe 42° Hot Yoga

DENTAL

> Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District

Arrail Dental Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.

朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com)

Luxura Tanning Center This tanning salon has some of the city’s best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan possible, get custom-made tanning tips from the well-trained staff.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.luxura.net)

Lily Nails A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and waxing services too.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)

ZELL BeauCare Clinic 泽尔丽格医疗美容

3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to begin your journey into Yoga, so they are available to answer any questions you may have. It’s a great workout for the body and calming for the mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 9996, 8599 7395)

> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www. yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA serve@cyclechina.com or cyclechina@ hotmail.com)

HAIR SALONS Laurent Falcon The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon. Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, RMB115-468 men.

Overseen by Fellow of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS), ZELL cosmetic clinic provides state-of-art comprehensive minimal invasive procedures, including, Botox, dermal filler, fractionated laser skin resurfacing, Ulthera skin tightening and lifting, professional skin care treatment (acne, pigmentation, aging), and plastic surgery (including double eyelid, rhynoplasty, among others). > Unit 2002, 1/F, Vantone Center, 6A Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街甲6号万通中心AB座一层2002 (010-59073390,18612483390, www.zellbeauty.com)

Sport Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls. > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re

California Fitness Beijing Club California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia. Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment. >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com

Heyrobics “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluores-

all pampering needs.

> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)

> 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Centre Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. (8535 1002, 131 4667 9913). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. 三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971)

Catherine de France Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a trained team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, including manicures, pedicures & waxing. Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI.

> EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 E-mail: catherine@catherinedefrance.com Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. com

SPA & MASSAGE Angel Hands Massage Center Essential Oil SPA (original price: RMB288/ hr), promotional price RMB230/hr now. Let us release your stress and make you smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off. Our masseuses will know how to pamper you and attend to your every need.

> Room 301, Building 5, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO, 5号楼301 (138 1182 1008)

Dragonﬂy Therapeutic Retreat Created as a contemporary urban retreat, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)

Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain of contemporary spas. Calming flower aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui fountains create a soothing atmosphere in each of their locations, while a long list of treatments from around the world cater to

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> 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all appointments.

> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)

Joinway Dental As one of Beijing’s most reputable and trusted dental practices, Joinway Dental provides the perfect combination of cutting edge technology and comfortable treatment, while maintaining the strictest sanitary and sterilization processes. The clinic uses imported materials of the highest quality and its professional, US-trained staff offers a personalized and private service.

Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric Clinic

> Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn)

Beijing Passion International Medical Center This full-service international clinic provides 24-hr general medical care and a patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion International Medical Center is equipped with the latest in medical technology and is designed to support the comfort, safety and privacy of patients.

> 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院

> Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn

Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院

> Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, joinway@dentalcn.com, www.dentalcn.com)

SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 The full spectrum of dentistry. Services include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted.

> www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 . Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm. Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**MonFri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488

HEALTH SERVICES Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. amcare.com.cn)

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken. > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

> Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net

Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所

Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, 6553-2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www. hkclinic.com

International SOS Since 1989, International SOS has been run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments. Languages spoken include English, German, French, Mandarin, Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)

Parkway Health Clinic

> Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心 AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@ parkwayhealth.cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼北京Link 101-201室

Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所

> 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 85296618. Email: vista@vista-china.net. Website: www. vista-china.net

OASIS International Hospital OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad

LISTINGS range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 (15321793321 Grettchin)

The Frontiers School

> 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十四条50号 Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; e-mail: lamaisonmontessoripk@gmail.com www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com

EDUCATION

Beijing Mandarin School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language, more than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. Also recognized and recommended by BBC News as one of the most professional Chinese language school.

MBA & EMBA Schools BBA at BFSU-SolBridge 北京外国语大学国际商学院

> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537)

LEMBA The Leadership EMBA from the University of Maryland Robert H. Smith School of Business is a unique learning experience in Beijing. The program offers world class executive and leadership education from some of the best professors the world has to offer. Every month one of the professors from the University of Maryland comes to Beijing to instruct the class for 4 consecutive days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime. Email: beijing@rhsmith.umd.edu Tel: 8526 2528/29 Rutgers International Executive MBA

Join the friendly and professional team at Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin for 11 years. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. com.cn)

International Schools Beijing BISS International School 北京BISS国际学校

> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)

> Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. com.cn)

Mandarin Schools

Beijing City International School 北京乐成国际学校 Located in Beijing’s Central Business District, Beijing City International School (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering and Inspiring through Challenge and Compassion.” This non-profit, independent co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and is authorized to teach all three IB programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Programme).

Beijing Mandarin Language School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language. More than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmandarinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)

Beijing Juncheng Language School 北京君诚语言学校 > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

Culture Yard Voted Best Mandarin School in Beijing for 2015 by That’s Beijing readers! Ready to take your Chinese to the next level? We offer personalized Mandarin classes for serious language learners of all levels. Why choose us? •Learn in a small group of up to 6 students •Get your Chinese level evaluated and your study goals set on our detailed level test •Reach an HSK4 level in less than one year on our flagship Intensive Program! •Learn from professional teachers with master degrees in teaching Chinese to foreigners •Study in a centrally located, cozy and sunny hutong courtyard •Practice on the go with Culture Yard customized online tools •Discover Chinese culture on our Chinese Through Cinema movie nights and other cultural activities •Study the most common Chinese characters in our Characters Building course Need more? •Classes are focused on speaking and understanding real Chinese that native speakers use •Serious approach to Chinese learning with regular homework assignments and tests •We offer Chinese Media classes for advanced learners •The school was opened by a western educator passionate about Chinese learning Don’t take our word for it? See what our students say about us on www.cultureyard. net/reviews Contact us: contact@cultureyard.net/ 01084044166/Wechat: CultureYard

The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F,

children between ages 2 to 6 years old. The kindergarten is located in a beautiful courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class activities also offered.

> 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)

The International Montessori School of Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully registered international Montessori school. The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Mandarin/English program geared towards helping students achieve fluency in either language from an early age. Curriculum aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a high teacher-student ratio and impressive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 - RMB177,000/year. > Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, http:>www.msb.edu.cn, admissions@msb.edu.cn

Beijing World Youth Academy 北京世青国际学校 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an international school for students of all nationalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs on its campuses conveniently located in Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School since 2001, BWYA values holistic education and seeks to give students ample opportunity to develop as globally-aware critical thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular activities are offered to further enrich student life. Graduates of BWYA have been accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB 100,000- 140,000/year.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 3478/0649, admissions@ibwya.net, www.ibwya.net)

The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 The British School of Beijing, established in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993246,057. Contact our Admissions team to arrange a school tour.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.org.cn)

La Maison Montessori de Pekin 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 The first bilingual French-Chinese Montessori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes

> E-tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, 9/F E-tower Building E数码世界9层904-905(6508 1026/1126) Guangming Hotel School (Embassy Area): Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel(near U.S Embassy) 光明饭店7层0709室美国大使馆附近(84418391) Email: info@beijingmandarinschool.com/ www. beijingmandarinschool.com/ Skype ID: beijingmandarinschool1998

Canadian International School of Beijing 北京加拿大国际学校 Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class facility offers an internationally recognized Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen of the world. > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)

Harrow International School Beijing 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Harrow International School Beijing prides itself on its high academic standards, a close-knit school community, a rich extracurricular activity program and the quality of its pastoral care provision. Leadership skills are promoted school-wide, with a range of enrichment activities to help students develop teamwork and creative thinking skills, as well as independence and responsibility. Students graduating from Harrow Beijing have won places at a range of universities across the world including Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870 Email: enquiries@harrowbeijing.cn

by three separate accreditation organizations and has a 100 percent pass rate within the IGCSE and IB programs. In addition, YCIS Beijing is the only international school in China to receive the Cambridge Award for Excellence in Education from the University of Cambridge International Examinations. > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 www.ycis-bj.com)

Kindergartens Beanstalk International Bilingual School 青苗国际双语学校 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路 6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38 号 (8456 6019)

House of Knowledge International Kinde garten (HOK) House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergarten program for children aged 10 months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as competent learners and the school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade 1 in September 2014. > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. hokschools.com)

EtonKids International Kindergarten 伊顿国际幼儿园 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内

Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园

International School of Beijing 北京顺义国际学校

> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)

SIBS Springboard International Blingual School 君城国际双语学院 Springboard International Bilingual School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their students to realize their full potential. They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football. > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn; 8049 2450)

> www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, warehouse4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王家码头路

3e International 北京3e国际学校 > 6437 3344

www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)

Western Academy of Beijing 京西国际学校 The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is a creative and innovative IB World School built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to others, can-do spirit and commitment to excellence. WAB graduates are accepted into world-class colleges and universities across the globe. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588)

Yew Chung International School 耀中国际学校 Located in downtown Honglingjin Park since 1995, Yew Chung International School of Beijing (YCIS Beijing) offers a truly international curriculum for children of foreign nationals in China. The school follows the National Curriculum for England but also integrates an extensive Chinese language and culture program, allowing foreign nationals to get the best out of their time in China. YCIS Beijing is one of only five schools in China accredited

Bookstores Page One The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive collection of titles. > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com)

Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)

The Bookworm * This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event space always has a cultured evening on its shelves for both adults and kids. > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)

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CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION Ascott Raffles City Beijing Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City. Other nearby leisure attractions include Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district. > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 Ascott Raffles City Chengdu > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China Post code: 610041 Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888 Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 GDS Code: AZ Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing Somerset ZhongGuanCun is a luxury residence in Beijing that lets you enjoy the cultural depth and elegance of the city while living in the fast developing ZhongGuanCun area, only 15 minutes away from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian District Tel: 5873 0088 Lusongyuan Hotel A traditional compound of quadrangle composing of 5 courtyards which lies in the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous for its imperial living taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of nearly 170 years. The original owner of this large private house was the Grand General SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he carried out top official duties, such as defense minister. > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Address: No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com Lee Garden Service Apartments A newly renovated high-end premier living residence in a central location next to the shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Wangfujing, suites range from studios to 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) and are tastefully furnished with specially selected materials. > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, general.manager@lgapartment.com, www. lgapartment.com) FraserResidence CBD East Beijing Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free! One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. com > Website: http:>beijing-east frasershospitality.com Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 FraserSuite CBD Beijing The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357

Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 5908 6000 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas. Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and C will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances M etc.. Unique sky garden with golf practice field Y and barbecue area is another symbol of GTC Residence. CM > E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com website: www.gtcresidence.com MY Tel:56756666 Lanson Place CY Lanson Place Central Park Serviced Residences, located in the Central Business CMY District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom K configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden. The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped. > Website: www.lansonplace.com Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 Marriott Executive Apartments Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing area where the prestigious business, commercial, entertainment, and shopping center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng District Tel: 6564 9999 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District. Tel: 8588 2888 Oakwood Residence Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100027, China reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES The Westin Executive Residences at The Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and

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close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions. > Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial Tel: 6606 8866

BUSINESS CENTER Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室

11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Pacific Century Place 北京盈科中心 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 China Central Place 北京华贸中心 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国路79号华贸中心2号楼9层 Parkview Green 北京侨福芳草地中心 15/F, Office Building A Parkview, Green, No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东大桥路8号芳草地办公楼A座 15层 China Life Tower 北京中国人寿大厦中心 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层

•Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people •Prices from RMB180 per month •Find more on Regus.cn •Tel: 400 120 1207 >> BEIJING (20 LOCATIONS) << Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 北京利星行广场 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 北京新东安广场 7/F, Office Tower 2, Sun Dong An Plaza, No.138 Wangfujing, Avenue, Dongcheng District 北京市东城区王府井大街138号新东安广场写字楼2座7层 Zhongyu Mansion [New] 北京中宇大厦 6/F, Zhongyu Mansion, No.6 North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦6层 Diplomatic [New] 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区亮马桥外交办公大楼E座17层 Kerry Centre - South Tower [New] 北京嘉里中心-南楼 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 Landgent Building [Coming Soon] 北京乐成中心 5/F, Block A, Landgent Center, No.20 East Middle 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang District C 北京市朝阳区东三环中路20号乐成中心A座5 层 M

China Life – West 北京中国人寿大厦-西 West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层西区 IFC 北京财源国际中心 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲8号财源国际中心东座10层 Prosper Center 北京世纪财富中心 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang Hua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6 层 Financial St. Excel Centre 北京金融街卓著中心 12/F, Financial Street Excel, Centre, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District 北京市西城区武定侯街6号卓著国际金融中心 12层 NCI Centre 北京新华保险大厦中心 15/F, NCI Tower, No.12A Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲12号新华保险大厦15层 Taikang Financial Tower 北京泰康金融大厦 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦 23层 Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 北京中关村欧美汇大厦 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District 北京市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大厦7层

China World Tower 3 Y 北京国贸三期 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District CM 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 MY 15层 Lufthansa Centre CY 北京燕莎中心 C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao CMY Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 K

Kerry Centre 北京嘉里中心

CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center

LISTINGS We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and Pacific region, and our headquarters is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services. Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, Taiyanggong, Beijing Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591 Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com Website: www.csochina.cn Tel: 86 10 64697000 Servcorp Smart businesses understand that flexibility is the future of the workplace. They choose the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow their businesses, run critical projects and give their people flexibility. Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) Need flexible and affordable ready workspace to enhance your business or register a representative office for your temporary projects in Beijing? We have the perfect solution. Located within a Grade-A building in the popular Lufthansa Business Area, our work-spaces provide you, or your company, with the ideal business identity, and most importantly, come with the most competitive rates to minimize your cost and risks. Please contact: > Gateway Plaza, Tower A, Suite 16D , NE 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路霞光里18号佳程广场A座16D T:01084400606 M:15910782518 Cynthia LU

CAR RENTAL SERVICE Beijing First Choice Car Rental Service Co., Ltd We offer short and long term vehicle leasing services for both business and sightseeing. Our commpany could provide the latest elite, high-end vehicles such as Mercedes Benz S300, BMW S5 and more! Contact our friendly representatives for more information. Tel: 138 1015 6525/6434 0778 www.fccars.cn fccars@live.cn Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd Beijing Top-A Vehicle Service provides: *English -speaking driver *Long-short term leasing *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan, Van and Bus We, ES-PATS Life Group, also serves with Mandarin, housemaid, Visa, driver, driving license, vehicle registration service. Tel: 6438 1634, 1350 123 7292, service@ expatslife.com www.expatslife.com Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd *Long/Short term leasing *Daily car service *Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car service *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat, Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito, Hyundai) and Buses *Native drivers with good English *More information please contact Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256 FAx:6504 7256 www.sxsdcar.com Email:car-rental@live.com

CABLE SERVICES Super IPTV

BEAUTY SERVICES Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun Branch Grand Opening Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s, to bring a continuous tanning effect 25% above standard machines with unique aquacool and aroma functions, we provide customers with the safest and most comfortable tanning space. > Open time:11:00-21:00 Sanlitun SOHO Branch Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun SOHO,Chaoyang District Tel: 57853711 Wangjing Branch Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Website: www.bjtanning.com Tel: 84722855 LA BELLEZA La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in Spanish. Professional hair-designers from Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here. LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, and finest products. New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life! Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china. Website: www.labelleza.com.cn Tel: 010 8522 1626 MegaSun Tanning Salon As the only flagship store for this popular German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning will provide for each client the finest sun tanning experience. Our center has prepared the newest functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy chamber systems, combined with easyCare optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our professional UV and tanning services. > 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO North Tower, Rm. 2302 Chaoyang District, Beijing Website: www.imegasun.com e-mail: 1019771453@qq.com Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂 Tel: 5900-2236/2238

Beijing: Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC. 北京市朝阳区光华路12号数码01大厦2302 室 Shanghai: Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC. 上海市静安区延安中路841号东方海外大厦 904室 Guangzhou: Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3 Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC. 广州市中山二路3号(东山口)粤运大厦11楼 D-E室 Hong Kong: 7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong. 香港德辅道中161-167号香港贸易中心7楼 Beijing Office-TMF Group In order to enable clients benefit from the increasing globalization of the worlds economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative outsourcing services in 67 counties across the globe. With a genuine global network and qualified staff, TMF group provides an array of accounting, corporate secretarial and HR administrative outsourcing services. > Colin.Zhang@TMF-group.com Website: www.tmf-group.com CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7 Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang District Tel: 65330533-860

FURNITURE Crossover Crossover Center Flagship Store, is mainly marketing international super home furnishing brand products. Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau, Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini, Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over 20 international super home furnishing brands. Our products are covered with all of fields in daily-life home furnishing, including furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and office supplies etc. Website: www.crossovercenter.com NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C. Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123

HOUSEKEEPING Super IPTV offers 150+ English TV Channels in HD quality, These TV channels are delivered into your televsion throuth a set top box via a broadband connection, Much like cable services back home, pick up the remote control and start watching, it's one of the best ways to get your favorite channels including HBO,CNN,BBC,ITV,FOX,AXN,E,Star World,Sky Sports,SETANTA,ESPN,EPL,Discovery,Nat Geo... Website: www.beijingiptv.com Shopping: www.shop.superiptv.com Add Wechat ID: 'superiptv' live chat now! Mobile: 133 716 00100 or 139 1811 9990.

CONSULTING SERVICE Harris Corporate Services Ltd Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong Kong Established since 1972 WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up Accounting & Tax Compliance Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening Serving all your business needs for investing in China. Call us for a free consultation. Tel: (86)10-6591 8087 Mobile: 186-019-43718 Email: info.bj@harrissec.com.cn

JNY Home Service JNY Home Service was established in 2007, supplying foreign families with English speaking/non-English Speaking nannies(maids), either daily or live-in. As a part of our service,we make sure all references and ID cards are thoroughly checked to guarantee the safety and health of your family. Email : jieniyou@hotmail.com Mobile: 13426362833(24h) Beijing EX-PATS Service Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency and 24- hour English service. Medical and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese driving license, vehicle registration. service@expatslife.com Website: www.expatslife.com Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292

Koala Ministorage Koala Ministorage is the first professional self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn more, visit our website www.koalaministorage.com. To make a reservation, call us toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at questions@koalaministorage.com, or visit one of our stores.

REAL ESTATE AGENTS JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION SERVICE We are one of China’s leading real estate agencies boasting an extensive database of high-end properties for rent. We have helped thousands of expatriates find their homes as well as hundreds of companies re-locate their employees. Once we have found you your ideal home we will be on hand to deal with any post move issues and our dedicated after sales team will be contactable 7 days a week to help you with any queries you have throughout your stay in our country. > For more information please contact us: Email: paulquin@joannarealestate.com.cn Website: http:>beijing.joannarealestate. com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971) Replus-Benchmark “Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading real estate agencies and relocation service provider for expatriates in Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and Shenzhen. • Residential Home Search Service • Visa Application • Commercial Office Space Search Service • Buying and Selling Property Service E-mail: marketing@replus-benchmark.com Website: www.replus-benchmark.com > A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577 Silk Road Travel Management Ltd. Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing Silk Road tours and other classic routes in China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized in tailor making travel packages that allow travellers to truly experience the local cultures and explore the amazing heritages. Whether you are a small group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our professional staff will tailor make the tour programme based on your needs. Email: travel@the-silk-road.com www.the-silk-road.com TUI China An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s leading tourism group, TUI China was established in late 2003 as the first joint venture with foreign majority share in the Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters are in Beijing whilst its operations reach deep into the far corners of China. World of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and provides M.I.C.E services for renowned companies worldwide. > Add: Bright China Chang An Building, Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email: sales@tui. cn; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel: 8519 8800

BUSINESSES! PROMOTE YOUR SERVICES

STORAGE

TO THOUSANDS OF

China Self Storage Co. Ltd As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international industry standard to professionally developed Self Storage for private, family and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned, 24h access, flexible size. To learn more, visit www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make a reservation, contact 400-600-6378 info@ selfstorageinchina.com. Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd., Shunyi District, Beijing.

PEOPLE EACH MONTH ON OUR CLASSIFIEDS PAGES. FOR MORE DETAILS AND SPECIAL PACKAGES PLEASE E-MAIL BJADVERTISING@ URBANATOMY.COM

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | 7 9

Hangzhou

Haikou

Yes

Are you willing to drop tons of money on a tiny apartment?

Do you even like people?

Yes

Choose one: mountains or lakes

Dali

Meh

Guangzhou

Fuck peaceful

Macao

Yes

Hong Kong

Tell the truth: Did you get all that money by gambling?

WAAAY SOUTH

NORTH

Pick an activity

Avoiding walking tours

by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Start Here

SOUTH of the YANGTZE?

SOUTH

Going on walking tours

Xi‘an

Drinking

Hohhot

Harbin

I’m just really into craft beer

Beijing

Yurt

Igloo

Where would you rather sleep: an igloo or a yurt?

To get through the long winter

Why are you drinking?

I’m sweating just thinking about it

Can you handle spice?

Yes

Chengdu

WHICH CHINESE CITY SHOULD YOU LIVE IN?

NORTH

German

Qingdao

Do you prefer your concessions British or German?

British

Tianjin

Do you want somewhere peaceful?

Yes

Why – you like partying?

Yes

Shanghai

Best not live in a city then