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Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland Food & Drink Editor Noelle Mateer Staff Reporter Dominique Wong National Life & Style Editor Marianna Cerini National Arts Editor Andrew Chin Designers Li Xiaoran, Iris Wang Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Mia Li, Wang Xuejun, Trevor Marshallsea, Zoey Zha, Sophia Pederson, Erik Crouch, An Xianjie, Tongfei Zhang, Nicky Almasy

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EDITOR’S NOTE

DEALS

We're giving away tickets to some of

JANUARY

the very best Beijing

A WEEK BEFORE OUR GOLDEN FORK RESTAURANT AWARDS I VISITED A TAILOR FOR A NEW

suit. Nineteen hours before our Golden Fork Restaurant Awards I found myself chasing an unlicensed taxi along Andingmen Nei having left my new suit in the back seat. I didn't catch up with it. It’s a shame – not least because I’d hoped to shout-out my friendly new tailor, Jim Tailor (not his real name, I suspect). But given that his creation was never worn, the only thing I can endorse is his methodical and unobtrusive measuring services. This probably isn’t enough to warrant a trip to the soulless third floor of the refurbished Yashow Market. So, down on my luck, I cobbled together an outfit (see picture below, far right) and headed to Spark for the awards. I needn’t have worried. While much of Beijing’s F&B world turned out as impeccably dressed as ever, the ‘Golden Age’ hip-hop theme produced some brilliantly casual flourishes. We saw more do-rags, snapbacks and gold chains in one night than we’ve seen in Beijing over the last three years. A salute to everyone who turned out, the That’s Beijing staff who made the event such a success and An Xianjie for illustrating the cover of this month’s magazine. Fom page 38 you can find a run-down of all the night’s winners. In the process, we uncover some of the stories behind Beijing’s best-loved food institutions, including Noelle Mateer’s attempt to pull an all-nighter at the 24-hour food mecca, Jindingxuan (Best Chain), and Dominique Wong’s search for the elusive Zhang Mama (Best Sichuan). Elsewhere in the magazine, we hear some alternative views on the end of the one-child policy (page 10); Marianna Cerini explores the growing, and often worrying, use of child models (page 22); Andrew Chin picks out his favorite Mainland albums of the last year (page 32); and I visit a Thai dessert store called Crack (page 55). Plus – in keeping with our Awards’ theme – I interview hip-hop legend DJ Jazzy Jeff (page 30), while trying really hard not to ask him about a certain Bel-Air-based sitcom. A Happy New Year (to those of you observing the Gregorian calendar),

parties, openings, shows and talks all month, alongside free meals, drinks, discounts and giveaways. All you have to do is scan the QR code below, follow us on WeChat and keep an eye out for your chance to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too.

Oscar Holland Editor-in-Chief

Beijing Women to Watch 2016 T h at ’s B eijing is proud to s pons or B eijing Women to Watc h 2 0 1 6 – an e v ent aiming to h i g h l i g h t w o m e n m a k i n g t h e i r m a r k o n o u r c i t y, r e g a r d l e s s o f a g e , n a t i o n a l i t y o r i n d u s t r y. K now s omeone w ho des er ves to be honored? Nominate her by Februar y 8 at w w w. s u r v e y m o n k e y. c o m / r/ R X H S R N 7 o r e m a i l w o m e n t o w a t c h 2 0 1 6 @ g m a i l . c o m f o r m o r e i n f o .

T hats_Beijing t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s B e i j i n g facebook .com/ T hatsBeijing

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 3

QUOTE OF THE ISSUE

“My mother did have another baby that could have been my sister or brother, but as it was illegal, she had an abortion” Joyce, an only child, on the ramifications of the onechild policy, page 13

6 CIT Y

8 OBITUARIES Bidding farewell to everybody’s favorite Bar-B-Q and Den 10 SEEING DOUBLE When the one-child policy becomes two

14 BLOKES ON BIKES A ride through the history of China on wheels

18 LIFE & ST YLE 2 0 T H E W R A P -T U R E Cool scarves to keep you warm this winter

26 SCENE AND HE ARD COS-play in Taikoo Li and the rest of the month’s openings 27 PORTR AIT OF CHINA Laoren Gu is pretty swagged out for a 72-year-old

28 ARTS

32 TOP OF THE POPS The best Mainland albums from 2015 35 SO GOOD IT YURTS Why are Mongolians making so much great music?

36 GR E AT A D A P TAT IONS F. Scott Fitzgerald’s classic gets a ballet makeover

5 0 E AT & D R I N K 55 CRACK Addiction has never tasted this sweet 56 WE BROS German restaurant Brotzeit is quite the sausage-fest 57 CURIOUS GEORGE’S Parkview Green is raising the (cocktail) bar 4 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

THE WRAP 22 NOT KIDDING AROUND The business of child modeling in China

30 FRESH OUT THE 90S DJ Jazzy Jeff on the return of the Fresh Prince

3 8 G E T F O R K- E D Golden Fork Restaurant Awards: The big winners revealed W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 5

CITY TH E B U Z Z

R I S E O F T H E M AC H I N E S A seemingly friendly (but potentially deadly) robot on display at Beijing's National Convention Center for the World Robot Conference.

RANDOM NUMBER

…is the percentage of Beijing seniors expected to be cared for by their families by 2020, leaving only 10 percent in the care of nursing homes and communities. Despite the majority of families shouldering the burden of elderly care, Beijing remains woefully unprepared for the rest – current facilities mainly cater to disabled patients. Experts believe that the number of Beijing seniors will rise from today’s 3.2 million to 4 million in the next five years. In preparation, local governments are pushing for major social-care sector development, targeting a 50-percent increase in centers for the elderly. 6 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

O N AU TO P I LOT

Baidu’s collaboration with BMW appears to have been an instant success, with the modified BMW 3 Series setting a new record as the first fully autonomous car in China to complete a number of tests in different driving environments. Starting and finishing at Baidu’s Beijing headquarters, the 30-kilometer route involved merging onto the highway, changing lanes and U-turns, among other maneuvers. The BMW set a maximum speed of 100 km/h and was guided by Baidu’s highly automated driving (HAD) maps. A steer-ling effort (indeed, better than what some of us at That’s Beijing's office can manage) and perhaps a sign of the driverless future to come.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

Your online search history reveals a lot, and if Beijingers’ requests during last month’s airpocalypse are anything to go by, safety was their number one concern. Of the sexy sort, that is. Because while there was an expected rise in orders for pollution gear (air purifiers, masks), another protective item also experienced a surge in sales: condoms. According to Taobao’s data, the increase in searches for contraception was directly linked to the cities that were most affected by smog. Taobao reckons it’s because people are more concerned with good childbearing and preventing pregnancy during polluted days. Or maybe people just wanted to get down responsibly? Either way, it’s good to see everybody making out – we mean, making the most out of the bad conditions.

Q U OT E O F T H E M O N T H

“Being the first foreign basketball player to receive a green card means a lot in making history in China” The Beijing Ducks’ point guard, Stephon Marbury, makes his humble contribution to China’s 5,000-year history by securing permanent residency. Funnily enough, 5,000 is also the number of foreigners who have been given the Chinese equivalent to a Green Card since the system was introduced in 2004. Having already been immortalized in a statue outside the Ducks’ arena and a set of limited-edition postage stamps, the former NBA star is well on his way to becoming a national treasure.

AS K A L AO B E I J I N G We met Meng, 58, selling newspapers on Xiang’er Hutong yo u r s a n d e t a re W h a te c u i s i n ? i r e o i v r o s fa mem food

PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

S M O G P R OT E C T I O N

I’m from Beijing so I like eating dumplings, noodles and other Chinese food. I have tried Western food before but mainly fast food places like KFC and McDonalds. But I’m unaccustomed to these flavors – they’re too different from Chinese food. My family enjoys cooking together. We usually cook simple Chinese dishes such as mapo doufu, gongbao jiding – this type of thing. I prefer to use less salt but am liberal with spice. I used to enjoy dining at Qinghai restaurant near my home but it’s since moved. It was a government-style restaurant and the dishes were very delicious – similar to [Gui Jie restaurant] Dongxinglou. Eating in general is quite expensive now, though. About 30 years ago, 10 yuan could last for a whole month. I really love dumplings. I used to make them in Xi’an and even have my own recipe, which uses seven filling ingredients: tomato, egg, chives, fennel, cucumber, spinach and meat. I’m pretty fast: in half an hour I can prepare, cook and eat the dumplings I make! First you need to boil the water, arrange the filling ingredients and then prepare the dumpling shell. Before – around 1984 – I worked in Iraq and India. There was fighting going on during this time. There were a lot of other Chinese people there so we would all cook and eat Chinese food together, although I still enjoyed some of the local food, like the chicken leg rice. There was also a nice tomato, egg and bean dish that was very delicious. I also like the Indian-style curry. I would definitely love to go out and eat these dishes again in Beijing. I can try anything. As told to Dominique Wong and Holly Li W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 7

CI T Y | TA LES

TALES OF THE CITY SHUT IT DOWN, KIDS “Due to government regulations preventing the PLA [People's Liberation Army] from using its property for commercial reasons, The Den (pictured in full despair mode, right) will unfortunately be closing after Sunday, 13th December. We are sorry about the late notice but we hope that you understand that this is beyond our control.” These were the words on a sheet of paper tacked up to The Den’s front doors last month. Two days later, the longtime Beijing institution threw a drink-the-bar-dry party, then shut those front doors forever. That same day, Tim Hilbert, owner of similarly legendary Beijing hangout Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q, also had an announcement to make: “Due to PRC laws which restrict the use of PLA land for commercial purposes, Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q’s lease has not been renewed. We have been directed to close and vacate on or before Dec 30, 2015, subject to

a possible one month extension.” Later that week, we received word that the Ritan Park locations of Jenny Lou’s and Comptoirs de France were closing as well. So, who’s shutting down the party? And why? As it turns out, the PLA owns large swaths of land in Beijing, including the plots of all the above closures. According to PRC law, the PLA hasn’t been allowed to conduct business since the 90s. But that hasn’t exactly been enforced. Until now, that is. President Xi Jinping recently made a statement, in line with his anti-corruption campaign, urging the PLA to decrease its business involvements. An anti-corruption campaign is something we can get behind – it just may come at the cost of more beloved businesses over the next few months.

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W.W. C . D . | C I T Y

I grew up in a quiet Scandinavian city where it is considered very rude to push into queues. Since I moved to Beijing, I find that people often take advantage of this, pushing in front of me when queuing for train tickets, for instance. Sometimes I'm left standing on the subway platform as more assertive people get in front of me. Pushing makes me feel uncomfortable, but it might be the only way to get where I need to be. As it seems to be more acceptable here than in my home city, should I just do the same? Would Confucius have believed in ‘first come, first served’?

Modern Dilemmas, Age-Old Wisdom

WHAT WOULD CONFUCIUS DO

Hello friend. Your problem is trifling but as it is seriously bothering you, Confucius is here to resolve it. He would have told you: “You should not push in. The ‘first come, first served’ principle is correct and people should comply with this. And while some people may act contrarily by shoving past you, you should refrain from copying their actions. Even if there are a lot of people who push in, it is incorrect reasoning to think that you should do the same. Blindly following the crowd is unwise. For the sake of your own benefit, pushing in is inadvisable.” Confucius was a person who strictly adhered to established moral standards, and he conducted himself accordingly. If actions fell outside these ethics – regardless of whether the matter was big or small – his conduct remained steadfast. It would actually become more likely he would

abstain from going against these rules. Confucius’ idea of complying with the rules reflects basic courtesy. The Etiquette and Ceremonial text (from the Rites of Zhou) is one of the classic texts of Confucianism. Confucius’ ideal virtue is kejifuli, which means ‘to subdue self and observe proprieties’ (Analects, 12:1). Friend, let the idiom dushuanqishen, ‘be righteous alone in a community where the general moral tone is low,’ motivate you. If you begin to push in, you only add to the number of people doing it, and also turn you into a rule breaker. I hope you can keep calm and refrain from pushing in. Wang Xuejun is a lecturer at Beijing Language and

Culture University, specializing in Chinese culture. His most recent book is entitled Teaching Methods of

Chinese Language and Traditional Culture . Send him your ethical dilemma via bjeditor@urbanatomy.com

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 9

The One-Child Generation Comes of Age by D o m i n i q u e Wo n g

The government’s announcement in late October that all couples in China will be allowed to have two children was met with a collective sigh of relief – and, in some cases, skepticism. Because although the one-child policy may soon become a footnote in China’s history, its impact is likely to linger on for generations to come. While much of the current analysis focuses on the social and demographic effect of the new rules, their consequences will be felt in unexpected ways. We speak to a range of people whose lives were touched by the one-child policy, to find out whether two really will be better than one.

THE

ONLY

FE AT URE | CI T Y

DR. TIAN JISHUN is an obstetrician and gynecologist who has been engaged in clinical practice for nearly 10 years. Since 2011, he has offered a free medical consultancy on Zhihu (a question-andanswer website akin to Quora), and his books are bestsellers in China. He will be speaking at TEDxBeijing Year-End Event about the implications of the two-child policy (event details below).

The Doctor

— In your opinion, what have been the major effects of the one-child policy? From my own experience, the impact of the one-child policy is mainly that bringing up children is like a ‘luxury’ event. It’s already had a profound effect on young Chinese families. — How so? In my parents’ generation, families were made up of many brothers and sisters. So – from what my grandparents have told me – raising children was a very ‘rough’ sort of job. But now in the one-child generation, families pour everything into raising their child and therefore have high expectations. The result is that some families’ psychological expectations become warped. Since becoming a one-child society, China’s parents have become extremely concerned for their child, and therefore are willing to pay a bigger psychological price. Over time, the whole nature and structure of parenting has seen big changes. For example, now there are all kinds of training classes teaching parents how to raise a child. There’s also the issue of parents trying to live in school districts that are considered ‘good’ because of the quality of education offered at these schools. So more people want to live in these areas [with the result of increased property prices]. — What have you noticed from your perspective as an obstetrician? My experience shows that due to families placing high value on only having one child, people tend to overestimate the risks that are associated with the baby’s delivery. Some completely ignore the effects their actions may have when giving birth in the future because there is no intention of having a second child. Mothers and doctors believe that a cesarean section will lower the risk [to their baby], while they overestimate the risks of vaginal delivery. This has resulted in China having one of the world's highest rates for cesarean sections, at more than 50 percent. — What’s your opinion about the change to a two-child policy? Even if the policy is liberalized to two children, Chinese families simply do not have enough capacity in the short-term to have a second child. On the one hand, parents have become accustomed to raising one child and the effort and resources it requires. So after the expenditure required for their first child, parents lack sufficient capacity to raise a second. Raising two children would result in less power. On the other hand – and from a medical perspective – apart from considering the high cesarean section rate, women who have already had a child and are now able to consider having a second child, are older, their success rate of giving birth is lower and the risks higher. So altogether this reduces their ability to have a second child.

— Will the new policy also place a greater strain on hospitals? In China there is a serious shortage of obstetricians, midwives and pediatricians. The two-child policy may result in a baby boom. But in the short-term it will be difficult to provide good services without enough medical personnel. So if we risk medical staff shortages, this could further affect the quality of birth population, and maternal health. There is already a tense doctor-patient relationship in China, and pressure on doctors would increase further. And because medical resources are severely unevenly distributed, this could even further exacerbate such conflicts. — What suggestions do you have for policy-makers? I think they need to find ways to solve the medical shortage [as mentioned above]. A while ago, the Planning Commission introduced a national health policy, whereby the exam scores required to train as a pediatric practitioner were reduced in order to attract more medical students. I think this was a bad decision as it enabled the quantity and quality of pediatricians to deteriorate further.

TEDxBeijing Year-End Event; Sun Jan 17, 2-6pm; RMB150 (presale); Shichahai Theatre, 57 Dianmen Xi Dajie, Xicheng 西城区地安门西大街57号

FAN SHISAN, 32, is an only child who photographed other only children for his ‘Two of Us’ series, an arresting and poignant commentary on the one-child policy. The images (overleaf) depict an individual double-posing in a different position, invoking the idea of an alter ego, or a person's search for something – or someone – bigger than themselves.

The Photographer

“I was born in Sichuan province in 1983, five years after the implementation of the family planning policy. My mother is a primary school teacher and my father a public service worker. I began the ‘Two of Us’ project because I wanted to photograph portraits of only children, and show that their shadows are microcosms of the special nature of the only children of this era. When I started this project, I saw old photos from the period of the Republic of China that had been shot in a similar style. I was very excited, as this was the kind of form I wanted to show in my photos. As I grow older, it feels more and more like times are changing very fast. The policy was implemented for over 30 years. It seems like a very long time, but in fact, it passed quickly. It’s hard for people to look outside themselves and their surroundings, and to see situations clearly for what they are. In doing this project, I realized everything that I have lost. The keynote of this project is sorrow and grief. Individuals are still very small. People let the media affect their own way of thinking, deviating away from what is real. It makes me despair. So, I want this project to be a special record. I didn’t expect the government to change the policy but the situation China currently faces [such as labor shortages] made it inevitable. Only children now have to assume responsibility for problems now arising as a result of past mistakes. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 1 1

CI T Y | FE AT URE

“I grew up in a rural area outside Wuhan. Most of my classmates were only children because the one-child policy was extremely strict back then [in the 1990s]. Society thinks the 80s generation is spoiled but that’s not a problem for me: my mother didn’t spoil me. My problem is more that I have DAVID, 26 intimacy issues with people of the same age. I’ve never been in a [romantic] relationship. I SOFTWARE ENGINEER think that when you fall in love with someone, it’s like treating somebody like your own blood. But I don’t know how to do this. My cousin was a second son. He was a ‘hidden child’ of society. He didn’t go to school in the early years [because he didn’t have a hukou]. Finally, his family ‘paid’ the fee to register him. It was a lot of money [back then], like RMB20,000. He still calls his father ‘Uncle’ because it’s a habit from his youth. For years and years he called his father ‘Uncle’ because they didn’t want other people to know about their second child. If others found out, [the authorities] would come to your home. He wasn’t born in the hospital, because if the government knew, they might try and stop the birth. Also, another uncle was a teacher, holding quite an important position in our county. His child was a girl but in traditional Chinese society people prefer a son. He faced huge pressure because he could have lost his job if he violated the policy. Eventually he got the money together to have another child and didn’t have to hide his son. I’m not saying the one-child policy was completely wrong, considering our country’s special situation. But it has caused many problems. A long-lasting effect to consider is families who have lost a single child because of an accident or sickness. Chinese families are much more traditional than in Western societies. Children are almost everything to their parents. When they grow old, their happiness and fulfillment comes mostly from their son or daughter, but if they have lost their only child, they are left miserable. I have also read about abandoned children. Some families who have had a second child are forced to abandon them, and parents from other countries adopt them. When they grow up, they might want to find their birth parents and discover their original history. When I was younger I felt lonely, of course, but I wasn’t really aware [of the one-child policy]. Chinese young people are more concerned with studying. But when I got to university, my thoughts began to take shape, and I became more educated. I think the two-child policy isn’t enough. Parents should be able to have as many kids as they want.”

The Lonely Child

“I’m from a country village in Shaanxi province and the oldest of three siblings. My younger sister and brother all have a hukou but my family was fined a lot for having extra children. My dad even had to get loans from the bank to afford the hukou payment. Almost all of my family in the countryside has more than one child. People I know who WEI, 34 work in the government, or highly educated PUBLISHER people, just have one though. It’s because most people are eager for a son and will keep trying until they get one. Having more children is also seen as good fortune of sorts, as they will be more helpful working on the farm. In terms of the government changing the policy to two children, I think it’s all about expediency. It’s typical of Chinese society, which is that if you do something in an extreme way, there will be an extreme result. Once the population becomes too large, the government will use a method to control it. But once there is a lack of people for labor, the government will use another way. And so on. I don’t have any children myself but if I have any in the future I would like only one.”

The Big Brother

“I have intimacy issues with people of the same age. When you fall in love with someone, it’s like treating somebody like your own blood. But I don’t know how to do this”

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Previous page and right: Images from Fan Shisan's 'Two of Us' project capturing the isolation and longing felt by individuals affected by the one-child policy

“My family consists of my mother, father, younger brother and myself. We are from a minority group [Hui] so my parents were allowed another child, despite living in a big city [in Hebei]. Even though the policy has changed to two children, our minority is still only permitted to have two. The city was very strict about the one-child policy: If you had more than one, you had to YUE HAN, 28 leave the workplace because it was likely you EDITOR would get fired. Back then there weren’t a lot of private companies. In my elementary school, only two people out of 60 had a sibling. And I was one of them. My friends thought it was weird that my family had two children. The concept of families used to be that they were large but now the structure has totally changed. Chinese tradition has always preferred having a boy but the policy has changed this thinking. Now, many families only have one girl so it’s become more acceptable. People think girls are more caring and easier to bring up. I’ve heard stories about female infanticide but it’s so far removed from me that I don’t know. The policy in cities is very strict but I’ve heard a lot of stories about rural places where families have many children. So what does the policy mean? They [the government] just targeted cities, not all of China. I’m not sure what will happen now that the policy has changed because it’s so expensive to afford a baby in the city. I haven’t heard many of my friends or co-workers saying they really want a second child because if they do, it will be very costly. And also, it saps a lot of energy from people. For example, if both parents are busy working to pay for housing and other costs, it’s very difficult. The policy won’t affect me. Maybe I will go to another country. My fiance isn’t Chinese. We don’t want to have too many children because we both want to work and have our own lives. We can also adopt babies, as there are too many children without families.”

The Ethnic Minority Child

“I’m a local Beijinger. Growing up, my family consisted of my mother, father and me, and I can’t remember any of my friends having siblings. My mother was pregnant with another baby, that could have been my sister or brother, but as it was illegal, she had an abortion. It really is a pity. When I was younger I wanted a brother, but JOYCE, 30 I thought it was okay and that perhaps most MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS people my age were also alone. Now I feel that being an only child is quite inconvenient because my husband and I have four parents to take care of as well as a husky dog and, soon, our own baby, as I am four months pregnant. I feel a little pressure but I'm lucky that my parents are pretty healthy. I would like a girl because it may be less difficult financially. Chinese tradition dictates that parents will give their son a house when they marry, and most girls agree that a successful proposal depends on whether their boyfriend have a house. Overall, my husband and I expect to have two children but it depends on our financial situation. Having two kids must be better [than just one] and many women I know are already pregnant with their second child. In fact, I would love to have more than two children if everything is okay: a big family with a big dog in a big house – how wonderful it would be! I think the one-child policy did control the population but it shouldn’t have been applied to just Beijing [and other urban areas]. Families in other places had lots of children, and then moved to the city for better opportunities. This caused overcrowded cities and barren countryside. There’s an imbalance where there are huge numbers of older people without any children, and fewer young people, who are important for building our country. I’m afraid that the population will grow too fast under the new policy and that facilities will be unable to handle the growth. For example, schools may be unable to provide a good education for everyone, plus it will be more expensive to have an apartment in the city. Sometimes I think it’s so funny that the government tells us how many children we can have. I hope that in the future it will let women and families decide how many children they want. But this may not happen.” █

The Expectant Mother

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

From Constantinople to Peking on Strange Iron Horses BY E R I K C R O U C H

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he first recorded instance of a Chinese person seeing a bicycle is from the spring of 1866. Bin Chun, a diplomat on a political mission to Europe after the end of the Second Opium War, spotted one on the streets of Paris, and it made quite an impression. “On avenues, people ride on a vehicle with only two wheels, which is held together by a pipe,” Bin Chun wrote in his travel diary. “They sit above this pipe and push forward with movements of their feet. They dash along like galloping horses.” The modern bicycle had only been invented a few years prior. Out were the gigantic front wheels of the impractical penny farthing, and in were the low-profile, gear-and-chain powered bikes of today. In the years following Bin’s discovery, bicycles trickled into China. They first cropped up among the colonialists living in Hong Kong and Shanghai, within the confines of clubs exclusive to foreigners. For many years, the local Chinese population had little interaction with the outsiders’ rides. But while bicycles were hidden away from prying eyes in the foreign concessions and colonies of East China, thousands living in the western and northern parts of the country had seen these marvelous contraptions – all thanks to the improbable road trip of a pair of mustachioed American college grads. In June 1890, one day after throwing their caps in the air at Washington University, Thomas Allen Jr. and William Sachtleben boarded a steamer to England. In London, they purchased a pair of bicycles in the latest, most durable style, and concocted a plan to see the world. In the spring of 1891, the pair set out on a 15,000-mile bicycle journey that would test their wits as much as their calf muscles. As the title of their eventual co-written travelogue would put it: Across Asia on a Bicycle: The Journey of Two American Students from Constantinople to Peking. Over the next two years, Allen and Sachtleben rode across Central and East Asia, their bicycles scaring horses and attracting crowds throughout (what was then known as) the Near and Far East. They staved off 120 degree Fahrenheit (48.8 C) heat in Tehran; they caught – and fought off – cholera in Tabriz; and they climbed Mount Ararat, disappointed not to find evidence of Noah’s ark, which is supposed to have made landfall there. But the trials of Central Asia could not prepare them for the experience of entering China. As soon as they crossed the border from Siberia into Xinjiang, they were met by flabbergasted crowds. The arrival of foreigners gave cause for great excitement. “Our garments were minutely scrutinized, especially the buttons,” Allen and Sachtleben wrote. “Our caps were taken from our heads, and passed around for each to try on in turn, amid much laughter.” But if seeing foreigners’ clothing caused excitement among the citizens of Qing-era western China, little could have prepared them for the sight of bicycles. “Some took [the bikes] for the ‘fire-wheel cart,’ or locomotive, about which they had heard only the vaguest rumors,” they wrote. In one village in Xinjiang, “we were evidently taken for some species of centaurs; the people came up to examine us while on the wheel to see whether or not rider and wheel were one.” In many towns, people had been warned of their imminent arrival. “It had been posted, we were told, a month before that ‘two people of the new world’ were coming through on ‘strange iron horses.’ Public curiosity was raised to the highest pitch.” As they moved deeper into China, the crowds increased further still. Soon, the two developed a system for arriving in new towns: “On entering a Chinese city, we always made it a rule to run rapidly through until we came to an inn, and then lock up our wheels before the crowd could collect.” One of the remarkable things about Allen and Sachtleben’s travelogue is how thoroughly they enjoyed China. The book is free from the casual racism that one might expect in a 120-year-old text, and shows that the pair were fantastic sports about the whole thing.thing.

FE AT URE | CI T Y

Photos on opposite page courtesy of UCLA Library William Lewis Sachtleben Papers. Additional photos taken from Across Asia on a Bicycle: The Journey of Two American Students from Constantinople to Peking.

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

They attempted to learn Chinese, yet “many times our expressions, by a wrong inflection, would convey a meaning different from the one intended” – which is to say they had a very typical experience of foreigners learning Mandarin. Their modest language skills enabled them to hear the variety of names that curious villagers gave for their bicycles – the pair’s favorite was: “it is like a little mule, that you drive by the ears and kick in the sides to make him go.” They enjoyed Chinese food – “Our fare in China, outside the Gobi [desert] was far better than in Turkey or Persia” – and were dazzled by the Great Wall. (At the time, there was a popular theory propagated by a French missionary that the Great Wall was just a myth. Sachtleben and Allen write that they “could not but smile” as they thought of the mistaken Frenchman.) When the pair arrived in Beijing at last, they faced accusations of mythmaking themselves – many residents of the city, both foreigners and locals, could not believe that their trip was possible. “Entire faith in our alleged journey was not general,” they noted, “until, by riding through the dust and mud of Legation Street, we proved that Chinese roads were not altogether impracticable for bicycle traveling.” It’s impossible to say whether or not Sachtleben and Allen were literally the first people to ever ride bicycles on the streets of Beijing – it is plausible that another foreigner previously brought a bike to the city. But the Americans’ wheels are certainly the best documented. Before leaving Beijing, they met with Li Hongzhang, the famed politician of late Qing-era China. Li was captivated by their journey, as were many others within the capital’s political and social elite. While it would be a few more decades before bicycles could be found on every street corner in the nation’s capital, a seed had been planted.

Allen and Sachtleben left Beijing for San Francisco, via Tokyo, and received a hero’s welcome in their home country. They returned to America and toured the speaking circuit to discuss their travels, before publishing Across Asia on a Bicycle in 1894. In the years following their departure, bicycles were embraced by some of Beijing’s biggest figures. The Guangxu Emperor, who was under house arrest following a coup by Empress Dowager Cixi in 1898, one day attempted to ride a bicycle that his eunuch had spotted in the possession of a foreign doctor in the Forbidden City. The ride was not successful – “His queue had become entangled in the rear wheel, and he had a not very royal tumble, and had given up – as many another one has done,” wrote the doctor’s husband. But where the Guangxu Emperor failed, the Xuantong Emperor (more commonly known as Puyi) succeeded. Two decades after Allen and Sachtleben dazzled China, he had workers pry out the ankle-high wooden dividers between rooms in the Forbidden City so he could more easily ride his bicycle between them. By the middle of the century, China had become the bicycle capital of the world. In the early days of the People’s Republic, the signs of a prosperous citizen were the “three rounds and a sound” – a bicycle, sewing machine, wristwatch and a radio. And by the 1990s, one hundred years after villagers marveled at the “strange iron horses” riding through their midst, there were more than 650 million bicycles in China – about one for every two people. But before bikes were parked 30-deep on every street corner, and before domestic brands like Flying Pigeon became household names, the story of bicycles in China began with two mustachioed American 20-somethings, braving the elements, pumping their pedals and fending off curious crowds from Constantinople to Peking. █

“We were evidently taken for some species of centaurs; people came up to examine us while on the wheel to see whether or not rider and wheel were one”

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CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY | CIT Y

Chenghuiwan \Chénghuìwán\ 城会玩 phr. you city folk know how to have fun. Did you hear? Zhang Ming got a brand new Lamborghini for his 21st birthday and he wrecked it on the Third Ring Road!

Wow. Chenghuiwan . Is he okay?

Yeah he’ll live.

Too bad.

If globalization is bringing about a clash of civilizations, China’s urbanization is bringing about the clash of rural folk and urbanites. For decades, the rural population was tied to the fields of the countryside by China’s hukou system, while the city population

reaped most of the benefits of China’s economic development. Since the early 90s, the urbanites had skyscrapers, a mall on every street corner, KTVs and nightclubs. The countryside, however, stayed very much the same or, in some cases, became bleaker. Every day, more and more agricultural types are drawn to the glamour of cities. Being young and restless, these migrants are amazed at how the city kids live. They wear designer clothes, spend the average yearly rural salary on one night of KTV and have entertainment options beyond their imagination. In response, millions of migrant workers summed up their emotion in the phrase: ‘you city folks know how to have fun,’ or chenghuiwan for short. They cry ‘chenghuiwan’ when rich kids wreck brandnew Ferraris, hold fancy balls in 5-star hotels or go off on exotic cruises.

But the phrase has also been adopted by urban kids – specifically those at the bottom of the social ladder wishing to comment on the actions of the social classes above. It is now simply a response to stupid and costly upper class absurdities – because everyone is poor and rural in comparison. It may be uttered in response to costly activities (such as having a birthday party on a private island) or just plain stupidity (such as breaking your leg playing hoverboard polo). China’s economic growth may be slowing, but the widening gap between rich and poor is not. Until it does, we will hear calls of ‘chenghuiwan’ as the collective sigh of poor kids working 12 hours a day while hearing about some rich kid’s yacht party gone awry.

By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in

Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

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LIFE & STYLE S T Y L E RADAR

S P OT L I G H T

COV E T

Cocoa Cover iPhones. Everyone (ok, almost everyone) has one. How boring, we say. How homogenous. But also how convenient (the phone’s pretty good, there’s no doubt about that). So how do you make yours stand out from the throng? Put a cover on it. Better yet, choose one from Beijing design collective Veins Design Collaborative (VDC). Showing a wavy graphic pattern rendered in brushstroke-like lines, each case is genuinely really cool. Extra tip: scan the ‘keyword’ on the card that comes with the cover and download the same design as your phone wallpaper. RMB100. veinsdesign.tumblr.com

Sweater Love Long hail the sweater, the garment that thrives in chilly weather, works perfectly with layers and annihilates even the air Siberian winds. Our favorites here in China are those by Cob Originals. Unisex, snug and pretty darn hip, they come in funky typographies and relaxed styles, mixing English and Chinese expressions to seriously fun effect. Pictured above is the ‘You’re Too Mafan’ sweater, whose design was created in collaboration with Shanghai-based artist Grayson Stallings. Must-have item of 2016. RMB480. www.coboriginals.com

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Adja Sy, founder of Lalu — For those who don’t know you… What’s Lalu? Lalu is a natural skincare line made of 100-percent natural ingredients such as butters and essential oils. Most of the ingredients are actually edible! — How did you start making natural cosmetics? I’ve been interested in cosmetics and body care products for a few years already – I’ve always liked to experiment with ingredients and make my own creams. When I moved to Shanghai it was a hassle to find products that worked for me, particularly since I’m dark-skinned and suffer from a few allergies. Many products have whitening additives here, which made the whole quest for stuff I could use even more difficult. That’s why I decided to start making my own products, first for myself and then for others. — You recently launched your Weidian store. What can we find on it? You can find my entire range of products, from body creams to face masks and scrubs. Now it is much easier to find me and order. — Do you have a favorite product? I have two favorites: the face cream and lip balm. Actually, scrap that. I love them all. — How do you choose your ingredients and blends? I wanted Lalu products to look like and remind us of food. After all, it is food for our skin. For fragrances, I mostly use scents I am familiar with or love, although some are seasonal and change throughout the year. I am also inspired by places I’ve lived in or visited. For the bases I use a lot of shea butter, which is one of the best moisturizers you can find, and it is only produced in Africa. Coming from Senegal, I had to put it into my products. I have been raised with it, or should I say dipped in it, since birth. — Are there any products you tried making that didn’t work out? My first creams and lip balms were a disaster! They were so hard that I couldn’t even break them; it was a complete mess. That’s when I learned that respecting scales and

recipes are very important for creating consistent, high-quality products. — What are you currently working on? Building the brand and its reputation. I’m also redesigning the packaging, working on a proper website and expanding the label. I’m basically going from ‘want-repreneur’ to being a [fully responsible] entrepreneur. — Have you ever had the urge to taste your products? They smell delicious. I taste most of them, especially the scrubs. The pumpkin spice scrub could almost be a base for a cake if I didn’t add so much Himalayan salt. Customers constantly tell me how my products smell like food or desserts and they are tempted to eat them. — The one beauty product you couldn’t live without is… Lip balm - I just can’t! I am having a panic attack just thinking about losing it. Next question please… — What’s in your bag right now? Two pairs of gloves (don’t ask why), my make-up bag, one asthma inhaler, keys, a lollipop (it’s been there for about three months), a wet wipe, chocolate, toothpaste, mirror, two kinds of lip balm (just in case I lose one), some coins and one earplug. Visit Lalu’s Weidian store at www.weidian.com/ s/819461844

Ed i t e d by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i /

MADE IN CHINA

UNDER THE LENS

Wacky Prints

Louis Vuitton City App Modern life has created the need (or want) for countless accessories to complement our attires, from headbands and bracelets to sprout hairpins and lens-less glasses. While some are obviously of questionable taste, others make for statement pieces – the key little details that bring drab looks to life. Items from accessory brand KaKoKo belong to the latter category. Started by Serbian Marina Zilic, an English teacher who’s been living in Beijing for three years, the venture does subtle, original jewelry pieces that serve as perfect outfit-trimmings. Currently, our favorites from Zilic’s collection are a series of bird-shaped brooches crafted in leather (real and imitation), fabric and buttons. “I started working on the birds as a hobby, spurned on by the craving for authentic jewelry,” she says. “There’s no rule on how to wear them – just use your imagination.” KaKoKo is a Serbian expression that means: “some do, some don’t (like).” But it’s hard to think of anyone who wouldn’t fall for these dope little birds. RMB80-100 per badge.

LI PHO TO BY HOL LY

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

For fashion types in the know (i.e. those Monocle and Kinfolk readers among you), the Louis Vuitton City Guides collection is a musthave for traveling in style. The guidebooks claim to be 'anti-tourist' by providing off-the-beaten-track info about the hippest hotels, restaurants, nightlife hotspots and cultural districts of major cities around the world. They’ve recently had a digital makeover, and now come in the form of handy apps you can download on your phone or tablet. Among the 25 metropolises featured are, of course, Beijing and Shanghai, which makes this the perfect prop to entertain your folks next time they visit (assuming they are as hip as you of course). In addition to the app, limited-edition box sets of Louis Vuitton’s printed city guides are also available, as well as monogram iPhone 6 and 6+ cases in four different colors. Your Chinese New Year present sorted. Download now on the Apple App Store and Google Play

Contact Marina on WeChat @MangoZilic or by email at zilicmarina88@gmail.com

OV E R H E A R D

“ W E LO O K E D AT H OW G LO B A L T R AV E L E R S E N J OY S U M M E R I N I T A LY . F O R E X A M P L E , T H E C H I N E S E PIECES, WHICH ARE TRADITIONAL CHINESE C LOT H E S W I T H I T A L I A N E M B E L L I S H M E N T S A N D JEWELS, REPRESENT CHINESE TOURISTS WHO A R R I V E I N I T A LY A N D C A N N OT W A I T T O A B S O R B T H E LO C A L M O O D A N D C U LT U R E “ Stefano Gabbana of fashion powerhouse Dolce & Gabbana, on the brand’s spring/summer 2016 collection. The designer, who was in Beijing last November for a promotional event with his partner Dolce, spoke to China Daily about the Chinese inspiration behind some (well, three) of the garments in their most recent line. The outfits do indeed make a ‘China connection,’ with collars in the style of a qipao and toned-down silhouettes that look quite unlike the rest of the frilly, feminine collection. Chinese tourists are no doubt a big chunk of D&G’s customer base, but we doubt that any Chinese traveler visiting Italy would be seen wearing anything like this. So… is this another out-dated and stereotypical view of Asian culture from the West? Yup. Could it also be yet another example of insensitivity from the designers who condemned IVF in March last year? It looks so, sadly.

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L I F E & S T Y L E | F AE S A THUI ORNE

05 06

COS 01 RMB350 > www.cosstores.com H&M 02 RMB199 > www.hm.com Jack Wills 03 RMB279.06 > www.asos.com Mango 04 RMB299 > shop.mango.com/CN Pull&Bear 05 RMB149 > www.pullandbear.cn 07

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Esprit 06 RMB337.20 > www.asos.com

07 Zara RMB199 > www.zara.cn 08 COS RMB550 > www.cosstores.com 09 ASOS RMB209.30 > www.asos.com 1 0 H&M RMB149 > ww.hm.com 1 1 Zara RMB259 > www.zara.cn 1 2 Zara RMB89 > www.zara.cn 08

Snug Scarves to Fight Off Winter by M a r i a n n a C e r i n i

Baby, it’s cold outside. What’s the best way to keep warm? A scarf. Any style goes for the ultimate winter fashion remedy this season. Pick a huge, blanket-like one, a la Lenny Kravitz, or a knitted number that would make your grandma proud. Here’s our edit of the hippest for this chilly, chilly January. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 2 1

LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

Is China's Fashion Industry Exploiting its Youngest Stars?

Wo r d s by M a r i a n n a C e r i n i A d d i t i o n a l r e p o r t i n g by To n g f e i Z h a n g P h o t o s by N i c k y A l m a s y

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FE AT URE | LIFE & S T Y LE

"It’s a sector full of sharks. Many agencies don’t even select the kids or have minimum age requirements. They just sign them up and ask parents to pay"

wo photographers and a stylist have taken over the sidewalk of a leafy street in Shanghai’s former French Concession for a weekend photo shoot. It is a familiar scene. But this time, the subject is neither a soon-to-be-married couple posing for wedding photos, nor a woman toting a local brand’s latest winter trends. It’s a child, or to be more precise: a toddler. Gao Yu is 3 years old. The seemingly happy boy is wearing leather pants and a bomber jacket, bright red sneakers and a sweater with a monster drawn on it. All the items are from a Taobao store specializing in children’s wear. He poses, balanced on the curb, making endless different faces for the camera until another kid cycles past on a bike and steals his attention. “One more,” says the photographer. “No thank you,” the youngster responds politely. And, just like that, the shoot is suspended. “Can I go pee now?” the boy asks his mum, who has checked every single shot on the photographer’s camera screen. “Yes, but you only have five minutes,” she replies. “We still have two more outfits for the catalog.” Such is the life of a child model. Fueled by an exponential growth in demand for children’s wear and items, child modeling has become a highly lucrative slice of China’s fashion and media industries in recent years. According to the country’s National Bureau of Statistics, urban Chinese parents of only children devote nearly 30 percent of their expenditure to items for their offspring. This, in turn, has created a need for young models and baby actors to advertise products – from clothes and costumes to strollers and toys. Many parents have taken advantage of this opportunity to make a little extra income from the trend. Gao Yu is one of the tens of thousands of underage models currently working in China, according to estimates from the industry insiders we speak to. Eager to ride the ‘kids’ wave,’ modeling agencies (or divisions of larger agencies) specifically targeting children have sprung up across the country. A

Baidu search returns results for over 300, with many based in Shenzhen or Guangzhou, as well as in second- and third-tier cities. In addition to photography and booking services, they also offer training and talent classes to teach kids how to walk down the runway, act or sing. A booker at a Guangzhou agency, who asked to remain anonymous, says he has seen the number of child applicants grow by 50 percent in the past three years. “There’s a lot of demand from brands, particularly with the rise of Tmall,” he says. “But a lot of parents also sign their kids up in search of notoriety.” Children’s agencies may produce cuter pictures, but their business is just as ruthless as their adult counterparts. In most cases, they demand large sums of money to enroll a child on their roster, before demanding 60 or 70 percent of proceeds made from runways or photo shoots. The absence of specific regulations for child modeling in China means that agents can compel kids to skip school so they can attend castings or shows. Moreover, the coaches teaching modeling classes often lack proper qualifications. Child modeling is a murky, unregulated industry that leaves many with no real chance of a sustainable career as a model, argues Chen Bin, owner of Catfree Kids, a modeling agency based in Suzhou. “It’s a sector full of sharks,” he says. “Many agents or agencies don’t even select the kids or have minimum age requirements. They just sign them up and ask parents to pay up. Unsurprisingly, these children end up not getting any jobs.” Marketing itself as ‘boutique,’ Catfree Kids differs from many larger agencies, Chen argues. “We only have around 110 kids, which makes us the smallest child modeling agency in the Yangtze area,” he says. “Yet we have families coming from all over the country to work with us – even a girl from Dongbei [Northeast China], believe it or not.” Indeed, at one of Catfree’s talent classes we meet kids from Shandong, Nanjing, Henan W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 2 3

LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

"I want to be a model when I grow up. I don’t miss school at all; I’m too busy with my job"

and Shanghai. They are here to attend a ‘posture session,’ where a 20-something former model shows them how to strike a pose, walk up and down a room, and stand still “elegantly.” Lined up in front of a floor-to-ceiling mirror, the children – aged 4 to 7 – listen sleepily to the teacher. Two boys make faces at one another, while a girl keeps checking herself out. Chen says most kids love the lessons. But, at a glance, they mostly seem bored. Classes cost RMB3,500 per semester and only allow 15 kids at a time, Chen says proudly. They are only held on weekends or during summer holidays, so aspiring models don’t miss school – and so parents can find the time to travel to Suzhou. Families can make back the cost of class fees through a couple of photo shoots, and after ‘graduating’ from the course, training becomes free. “We try to keep it fairly simple for both parents and kids,” the businessman says. 2 4 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

“The main criterion is to be cute. You can learn the rest here.” Meanwhile, things are more animated next door in Catfree Kids’ photography studio – the company’s main source of income. Tmall brands from across the country send clothes for catalogs and ad campaigns here, where the agency’s full-time models – those who have ‘graduated’ from the classes – pose for the camera in them. The room is wide and brightly lit with a handful of bean bags on the floor. One corner is piled up with toys and a makeshift bed (for unplanned afternoon naps, perhaps). At a makeup station covered in blushers, lipsticks and whitening ointments, a stylist is busy working on Yang Yang, a 7-year-old from Wuxi. She’s booked for a Chinese New Year-themed shoot – lots of red dresses and traditional Chinese garments – and seems excited about it. “Yang Yang likes being photographed,” her mom says. “She’s a natural. Everyone kept telling me how pretty she was, so [coming here] seemed the obvious thing to do. She loves dressing up in cute dresses

and gowns. She feels like a little princess. And she is.” As the shoot starts, the small girl twirls in circles endlessly, smiles, sticks her tongue out, smiles again. She goes through three outfits, redoing her makeup after each one. The shoot lasts one hour, but she seems to genuinely enjoy it. “This is mostly about her having fun,” her mom continues. “Whether she’ll continue or not in the future depends on her studies. But this helps her confidence. We certainly aren’t doing it for the money.” For many parents, however, a chance at fame is a real incentive. It is also an increasingly achievable one – children’s profiles in popular Chinese culture have never been higher. Reality TV shows like Dad, Where are We Going? which sees celebrity fathers and their children undertaking adventurous challenges around the country, have been hugely successful. Other popular shows include The First Time (essentially the same concept, but with mothers and kids) and The Strongest Child, in which children live by themselves for 72 hours and face a series of vexing tasks and new environments. Child celebrities have emerged as a result,

FE AT URE | LIFE & S T Y LE

including Wang Shiling (aka Angela Wang), the daughter of film director Wang Yuelun. She shot to fame in 2013 after appearing as a 4-year-old on Dad, Where are We Going? The young star has since become one of the country’s most buzzed about celebs (especially since walking Ralph Lauren’s children's runway show in New York in 2014). Similarly, 9-year-old Xiu Qiu also achieved celebrity status earlier this year, when she became the first Chinese child model to appear at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week for Chinese designer Laurence Xu. Both girls have benefited from family connections (Xiu is said to be related to the designer Xu). But that isn’t tempering the ambitions of some of Catfree’s models, like 6-year-old Maris Victory Whajah. “I want to be rich and famous,” she says. A beautiful, curly-haired child born to a Chinese mother and a Ghanaian father, Maris travels here every week from Nanjing. She started modeling with Catfree a year ago and has since walked Shanghai and China Fashion Week, shot catalogues for international brands and appeared on Hunan TV. To help her focus on her career, Maris’ parents decided to home-school her earlier

this year. “Modeling makes me feel beautiful, especially when I do makeup and wear pretty dresses,” she says before dashing off in front of a camera to shoot a casting video. “I want to be a model when I grow up too. I don’t miss school at all; I’m too busy with my job.” Her mum seems to be of the same opinion: “Her dad and I just hope she’ll be tall enough to keep doing this once she’s a teenager,” she says. “The plan is to send her to Brazil so she can perfect her skills. Her looks make her different from the other children, and that’s definitely an advantage moving forward. “Maris was born to do this,” she continues. “She did an outdoor photo shoot in the summer for a winter collection, under the sun and in almost 40 degrees Celsius, and she didn’t complain a single bit. That’s rare, if you ask me.” As we talk, a flurry of other kids enter the studio, kicking a football and screaming at each other. Some, like Wang Yi, a 10-yearold from Hubei (who wants to “keep modeling in the future” because “I just like it a lot and you get to make a lot of friends”) is next

up for shooting. Others are here with their parents to see whether they have what it takes to join Catfree. One 3-year-old boy, here from Shanghai with his mom, is not what they are looking for, apparently. “The owner said my son is too young,” the mom explains, referring to Chen with a look of disappointment. “Perhaps we’ll try again next year.” Luckily, the kid doesn’t seem too bothered, though the impact of such rejection on children’s self-esteem is unknown. At such young ages, many of the child models have no idea what a career centered on looks entails. They are unaware that, depending on how their bodies change, they may face lesser demand in the future. And from my visit to Catfree, I am not sure their parents fully grasp the consequences either. Indeed, when I ask Maris to name the hardest thing about being a model, her answer is slightly heartbreaking: “I don’t like when they don’t choose me because I am not pretty enough,” she says in an upset voice. “And I hate when I lose a tooth and can’t smile for a while because it doesn’t look pretty in pictures. I want to always be pretty.” █ W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 2 5

L I F E & S T Y L E | FA ER AR TI VUARLES

SCENE & HEARD 2

by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

CO S

A few years ago, only a handful of people would have known about COS. Now, it’s hard to imagine the high-street landscape without it – both abroad and here in China. The Swedish retailer (which is part of the same company that owns H&M) has become a wardrobe savior; a go-to for minimal, simple and almost anonymous clothing. Its dress code, which follows a ‘less is more’ ethos, is all about well-constructed pieces, stylish basics, high-quality materials and geometric jewelry. There’s a casual complexity to COS’s aesthetic that’s hard not to like, and the Beijing market seems to have fallen for it. The brand recently expanded into a huge, glassy flagship in the heart of Taikoo Li South – a prime and pricey location for any retailer these days. Spanning two floors and 330sqm, the store carries both women’s and men’s collections. The space’s white-washed floors, wide windows and grey fixtures mirror the volumes and proportion of the outfits on display. COS is a destination for those with clean, defined style – recognizable without being overly conspicuous.

R FAC TO RY

A retro-pop aesthetic and a witty sense of humor have made accessory brand R Factory a cult favorite. The label – which recently launched a dope Star Wars-inspired collection of shoes, wallets and totes – offers beautifully crafted items featuring leopard prints, metallic details or snakeskin effects (all in the softest Italian leather). From clutches to backpacks, wallets to duffle bags, each item packs edginess aplenty, reflecting designer Wu Yingnan’s own badass attitude to fashion. Eager to bring her vision to the masses, Wu has just set up a ‘public’ brickand-mortar presence at The Place (R Factory previously operated out of a hutong studio, by appointment only). The space has an industrial feel – all geometric corners, neon lights and sharp lines. It carries the venture’s latest (albeit small) collections, which span names like MT Fake, Monster and Screw You. Lady bosses looking for a new bag, check this out.

The Place, 3F, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 9 号世贸天街 3 楼

Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 19 号太苦李南区

F E I S PAC E , L I A N G M AQ I AO

One of the first indie, multi-brand boutiques to open in Beijing (in 798 circa 2008, when the art district was still relatively edgy), the original Fei Space was known for combining rarefied labels with the cool energy of London’s indoor markets – concrete floors and corrugated-iron lamps. As well as offering pop-ups in malls and quality online shopping, it was the first store to bring brands like Mark Schwab, the Cambridge Satchel Company and Topshop to China. Now, the venture has replicated its hipperthan-thou vibe in a long, brightly lit shop on the first floor of The Grand Summit by Liangmaqiao. Unlike its older sibling in 798, this new outpost only carries domestic brands, making it the perfect spot to stock up on (or take a gander at) local designs. Browse the racks and artfully edited tables to find names like Elysee Yang, Victor Zhu (a Woolmark Prize finalist), V Major and Yvmin. The friendly staff is on hand to tell you more about the designers, but highly informative introductory cards can also be found next to each rack, offering insight into the clothes the creatives behind them.

F106, The Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang Dong Lu,

Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路 19 号官舍 F106 号 (8531 5112)

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P. O . C . | L I F E & S T Y L E

Gu Longbao | 72

PORTRAIT OF CHINA by Ma r i a n n a Ce r i n i

I am currently helping my sonin-law with some contracting projects, like fixing these fences next to me.

I am a bit of a barber too. Sometimes I help neighbors and friends with their hairdos.

I like reading and watching TV shows. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one program called Zoubian Zhongguo (Traveling Around China) that I really enjoy. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 2 7

ARTS CO LLAG E

W H AT ' S N E W

DRUMROLL

Flava D

The godfather of Chinese rock, Cui Jian, returns with his first album in 10 years. While he's been described in the past as the Bruce Springsteen of China, his more recent material has a vibe more reminiscent of Public Enemy and Talking Heads. Released late last month, Guang Dong shows a gentler, more melodic Cui. It’s his first record for Sony and it’s available at music.qq.com.

Under the nom du plume of Red Pine, Bill Porter is widely regarded as one of the world’s best translators of Chinese poetry (gaining something of a cult following in the process). Also a gifted travel writer, he pays tribute to China’s greatest poets by traveling the country visiting their graves in Finding Them Gone. Available on Amazon Jan 12.

After linking up with some of Beijing’s finest for 2013’s fiery Sacrifice Mountain Hills, Taiwan lo-fi maestro Skip Skip Ben Ben returns home for her latest disc, Mirror in Mirror. Recorded as part of a trio, the album retains her noisy experimental charm while adding psychedelic flourishes. Available at downloads.maybemars.org. 2 8 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

London-born producer Flava D has taken the UK underground by storm with her hardhitting take on garage, house and grime. We caught up with her ahead of her DJ set at Dada this month. — What’s your flava? Tell me what’s your flava? A strong Jack & Coke, with Terry's Chocolate Orange for after. [Ed: That’s a British chocolate – highly recommended.] — Two years ago you’d never been on a plane and now you’re flying to Beijing for a headline show. Does it feel surreal? Yeah, it’s crazy. A lot of things that I do don't hit me until I’m there on the plane. I’m incredibly grateful for being in the position I’m in and I’ll be working on something exclusive to drop at the Beijing show! — So you’re still going to play a heavy dose of your own productions and remixes? Wherever I play, I think it’s important to play my own stuff. For a lot of people, it’s how they first find me, through my productions. But I do have a particular style – moody baselines mixed up with some grime, jackin’ house and the odd golden oldie chucked in, followed by an interesting mash-up of some sort.

— It’s been a few years since the socalled garage ‘revival’ – why do you think it came back so strong and does it still have legs? Yes, it does. Over the past couple years there have been many new producers emerging from all over the place. [They’re] making garage again and doing a very good job – still keeping the original elements but putting a modern twist on it. I personally think Disclosure played a part in its comeback, as they had that bumpy swing and the less predictable chords that I feel garage always had. — You described your album More Love as your most “most personal project” to date. What did you put into it More Love felt like a diary of mine at the time – a musical diary. I experimented more than I had done before. For example, I had never made a track without drums. Before I made ‘Closure’ I sat for 10 minutes, by myself in the studio in silence, and then I pressed record – no metronome, nothing. I just played and then added other stuff on top. I remember the feeling of relief afterwards, like I had just released any bad energy out of my soul, hence why I called it ‘Closure’. OH Thu Jan 14; RMB60; Dada (see Listings for details)

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

C A N VAS S E D

PHOTO BY JJYPPHOTO

Xu Wenkai (aka aaajiao), "Untitled"

New media artist Xu Wenkai (who also goes by his online handle aaajiao) draws on multiple disciplines for his latest exhibition, including architecture, electronic music and performance. The untitled collection studies ‘we-media’ by focusing on the ‘the screen generation' – those who live by social media. His work explores the

idea that the screen has become another side of man, and vice versa, and the implications this has.

Tue-Sun, 10.30am-6.30pm, through Feb 29; Free; Gallery Yang, 20 Originality

Square, 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 4 号 798 艺术区 (5978 9688)

H AO B U H AO

Hao

Bu Hao

Jack Black returns in the third installment of Kung Fu Panda, which hits theaters on January 29. He voices Poe, who once again finds himself as an outcast while reuniting with his biological father at a secret panda sanctuary. The film is the first in the series to be cocreated by Shanghai’s Oriental Dreamworks and it stars Angelina Jolie, Jackie Chan, Seth Rogen and Bryan Cranston.

The US and UK have long been forced to swallow the scourge of ‘scripted reality’ shows with the likes of Jersey Shore, The Hills and The Only Way Is Essex. Now it’s China’s turn to enjoy staged scenarios and vacuous conversation thanks to Sanlitun De Pengyou Quan. The cast comprises a usual mix of cliches, including a pop star and someone living off the proceeds of a Taobao store. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 2 9

A R T S | FE AT URE

"It’s gonna be cool going back into the studio with Will. He’s been the biggest movie star on the planet for some time, so it’s been hard for him to get into that zone. But I’ve never left the studio"

ALL THAT JAZZ

It's been two decades since The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air ended and DJ Jazzy Jeff has been making hip-hop ever since. So, Oscar Holland asks, are we still allowed to talk about it?

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FE AT URE | A R T S

JUST BEFORE MY INTERVIEW WITH DJ JAZZY JEFF, I ASK A few

friends to suggest questions. “Does he pity Carlton?” one offers immediately. “Why did Uncle Phil hate him so much?” I see where this is going. Like many people of my generation, all of my most burning questions also revolve around The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, the show that turned Jeffrey Allen Townes into a household name as Will Smith’s best friend, Jazz. Did it hurt getting flung out of the Banks residence so many times? Did he really lust after Hilary? But it seems unfair to ask a 50-year-old man – and one of hiphop’s most celebrated DJs and producers – about a supporting role he played in his 20s. Even broaching his musical partnership with Will Smith (which resulted in record sales of 5.5 million) feels a little gratuitous, given how much he has done since. But with a recent announcement that the duo will work on their first new album together in 22 years, these are suddenly the exact questions I should be asking, right? “We’re gonna start putting stuff together in January – he’s just finishing up movie press for Concussion,” Townes reveals. “I’m not sure [what sound we’re going for]. I think just being ourselves would work best. It’s gonna be fun to go in and see what we come out with.” It should mark a familiar return to a project forged long before the cameras started rolling. The pair’s friendship stretches back to 1985 when Smith filled in for Townes’ missing hype man at a Philadelphia house party. Between then and December 1989, when NBC approached Smith about a possible TV sitcom, DJ Jazzy Jeff & The Fresh Prince released three albums, reached number 4 in the Billboard Hot 100 with ‘Summertime,’ and became the first rap act to win a Grammy. “It’s gonna be cool going back [into the studio with Will]. He’s been the biggest movie star on the planet for some time, so it’s been hard for him to get into that zone. But I’ve never left the studio.” Jeff’s expansive discography is testament to that claim. Since Smith went solo and broke Hollywood, Townes has established himself as one of the producers able to emerge from hip-hop’s Golden Age with new credibility. His most notable releases are the opening two installments of the Magnificent trilogy (2002’s The Magnificent and 2007’s The Return of the Magnificent); both of which were packed with big-name appearances from the likes of Method Man, Jill Scott and Oddisee. The first Magnificent album was so good, in fact, that a track co-produced by the late (and highly acclaimed) J Dilla didn’t

even make the final cut. So with work on the trilogy’s final part set for next year (and, of course, the Fresh Prince collaboration), 2016 will mark a high-profile return to the music industry for the respected DJ and producer. But it would be foolish to overlook Jazzy Jeff’s recent output. In the last year alone he has recorded scratch overdubs for the blockbuster N.W.A. film, Straight Outta Compton, as well as produced a second album for up-and-coming artist Dayne Jordan entitled The Memoirs of Dayne Jordan. “Dayne is from Philly and I met him a while back,” he says of the young emcee, who will perform as a special guest at his Beijing show. “I gave him and DJ Ferno the studio to use. I was showing them something and made Dayne go into the booth. What he did ended up being a song. This was the most fun I had doing a project in years.” Townes seems as content working on such low-key projects as he is asking hip-hop’s biggest names into his studio. This may result from a sense of disillusionment with the modern music industry – a matter on which he has been consistently vocal. “I didn’t like the way the industry puts you in a box,” he explains. “The people are most important when it comes to the music. I had a hard time knowing that one person can stop the world from hearing your music because they don’t like it… let the people decide.” On that serious note, and with one question of our short interview left, there’s no choice but to give the readers what they want. So, do you and Will still do the signature handshake from The Fresh Prince when you see each other? It instigates a laugh. Maybe I should have asked earlier. “No, we did that on tour 20 years ago. One of our dancers made that handshake up. It’s crazy how that became a signature, but I will only do that with Will!” █ Friday January 15; RMB380 (early bird), RMB580 (on the door); Room 79, inside

Elements, 58 Gongti Xi Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西路 58 号 ( 工人体育馆西门北侧 , 灯笼俱乐部南侧 ); Show organized by Xin Wang 信望 event and booking agency.

TICKETS That’s Beijing is an official ticket vendor for DJ Jazzy Jeff ’s show at Room 79. To buy yours, follow us on WeChat (username: Thats_Beijing ) and message us with the word ‘Tickets’ for info. W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 3 1

A R T S | FE AT URE

1 2 Z H AOZ E

Ye s t e r n i g ht , Ye s To n i g ht (S o u n d ra y)

Fifteen years in the game and Zhaoze continue to surprise. Known for their guqin-driven sound, the Guangzhou quartet incorporated early prog-rock influences into what they call the “world’s first electric guqin album.” The rousing disc, Yesternight, Yes Tonight, sees the band filtering the ancient seven-stringed instrument through effects and bowing it like a violin (a la Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page). Written to capture a single night in their home city, the album was accompanied by a debut performance at the prestigious Xinghai Concert Hall. Even better, a companion disc recorded in – and inspired by – the historic city of Kaiping is set to appear in 2016.

H OW I E L E E Mù Chè Shān Chū (A l p h a P u p)

After establishing his own brand of “future music from Beijing” with three standout EPs, Howie Lee recently linked up with LA label Alpha Pup for his full-length debut. Mù Chè Shān Chū marries elements from two of his 2014 EPs – the East Asian samples of Eastside Sampler and the ethereal charm of Borderless Shadows – to create something utterly unpredictable. Inspired by the landscapes of Taipei where the disc was partially recorded, Lee blends traditional Chinese sounds with booming bass in captivating ways. Released last month, the album caps off a busy 2015 that saw Lee’s debut at South by Southwest and three compilation releases from his Do Hits collective.

THE YEAR IN MUSIC The Best Mainland Albums of 2015 by A n d re w C h i n

It was a strong year for Chinese music. Loved by some, overlooked by many – here’s a list of our favorite Mainland albums from 2015.

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35 4

C H U I WA N C h u i Wa n

( Ma y b e Ma r s)

Having emerged from Beijing’s experimental weekly showcase, Zoomin’ Night, Chui Wan take a major leap forward on their stunning sophomore disc. Ditching the reverb of 2012’s White Nights for a sound that drummer Li Zichao describes as “more primitive,” the eponymous album incorporates disparate influences from Sufi music to 20th-century avant-garde composition. Nonetheless, Chui Wan remains rhythmic and accessible, thanks in part to the production skills of underground mainstay Yang Fan. The album release was accompanied by the quartet’s first North American tour, where they played alongside sonic siblings like Tame Impala and Spiritualized at the Austin Psych-Fest.

ZURIAAKE G U YA N

( Pe s t P ro d u c t i o n s)

Mysterious dark metal legends Zuriaake first emerged 18 years ago in Jinan, Shandong. Nine years later, they released their debut album, the mighty Afterimage of Autumn. But now, having spent years in Germany perfecting the dark arts, the band are back with their most impressive release to date. Gu Yan continues Zuriaake’s atmospheric take on the genre through a mix of Chinese folk, seasonal motifs and a searing wall of noise. Ever cinematic, the band even hit the road for the first national tour in their long history, slaying crowds across China while dressed like those badass villains who terrorize Shaolin temple dogooders in wuxia classics.

W U T I AO R E N Ca nt o n G i r l ( Mo d e r n S k y)

Straight out of a tiny village in Haifeng County in Southeast Guangdong, indie-folk favorites Wu Tian Ren have built up a national following, despite singing in the rarest of the area’s three dialects. On their third album (and first for Modern Sky), they’ve softened their edges – most of the songs are in Mandarin and they’ve intentionally created their gentlest sound yet. The decision proved wise: the album’s accessibility highlights the trio’s powerful mix of Teochew opera and rockabillytinged riffs. Featured artists include spiritual brothers Top Floor Circus, who are famous for singing solely in Shanghainese.

CO N R A N K Ma Fa n (S a t u ra t e)

The UK bass producer began by conquering the Chinese internet with viral videos of him peddling fried rice along with his music. Then he conquered the country’s underground through a series of outstanding releases on his own Rankandank label. He’s even invaded the country’s pop charts, having been recruited by world music star Sa Dingding for her Wonderland remix album. Now the self-styled Chaofan Ge (‘fried rice brother’) is eyeing the world with his latest release for Saturate Records. International heavyweights like DJ Shadow, Stylus Beats and Messy MC contribute to the album, which has been winning rave reviews around the globe for its Sino-fied take on bass.

FE AT URE | A R T S

A N D T H E R ES T…

J-FEVER & SOULSPEAK Co l o r B l i n d ( D - Fo rc e)

Known as China’s most respected freestyle rapper, J-Fever has cultivated a loyal following by pursuing the independent route. However, his deal with Douban’s new record label D-Force has provided him with his biggest canvas yet – and the Beijing emcee has taken full advantage. Color Blind is a concept album exploring love and desire over sensuous, funky beats provided by producer Soulspeak (just one of the four sterling projects he contributed to in 2015). To support the album’s release, the duo triumphantly toured the nation with a dazzling multimedia show.

C H I N E S E F O OT BA L L C H I N E S E F O OT BA L L (Wild)

Wuhan may be written into China’s music lore as the country’s punk capital, but a new crop of bands are broadening the city’s sound. Leading the pack is Chinese Football, a self-described emo group whose sound echoes late-90s genre stalwarts like Jimmy Eat World, Death Cab for Cutie and American Football. Unlike many of the albums on this list, Chinese Football sounds like it could have been made anywhere. What makes it stand out is simply its exceptional songwriting. Released on a new label imprint legendary from the legendary VOX Livehouse, it’s an early warning sign that something fierce is once again brewing in Hubei.

S TO L E N Loop

10 You can listen to the full Top 50 list at www.thatsmags. com/2015bestalbums.

( D - Fo rc e)

Renowned for its spicy food, cute pandas and tranquil way of life, Chengdu now boasts one of China’s most exciting music scenes. Despite only being in their early 20s, Stolen have been a city fixture since first forming in high school. Over the years, they’ve tweaked their electronic take on post-punk and were among the first signees to Douban’s D-Force record label. Recorded in Taiwan with P.K. 14 guitarist Xu Bo, Loop captures the band at its most confident, mixing dynamic instrumentals (‘Hook’) with brooding slowburners (‘No Replay’) and darkwave dance anthems (‘Black Hole’s Metronome’).

HIPERSON No Ne e d fo r A n ot h e r H i s t o r y ( Ma y b e Ma r s)

No band entered the year with more hype than Chengdu quintet Hiperson. Just a couple of years after university, the band had already scored a deal with top indie label Maybe Mars, won Douban’s Alibu Music Award for Newcomer of the Year, and had P.K. 14 frontman Yang Haisong produce their debut. The resulting disc, No Need for Another History, more than lived up to anticipation and continued their label’s legacy of producing thoughtful art-punk. Frontwoman Chen Sijiang conveys her commanding presence as the band weave intricate riffs over rollicking rhythms and bass lines straight out of

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 3 3

ARTS | MUSIC

JON OF ALL TRADES Producer, DJ and MultiInstrumentalist Jon Kennedy Is Just Good at Stuff by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

British musician Jon Kennedy comes across as a confident man. He begins by telling me that he’s currently working on “one of [his] best tracks,” and later jokes that the music of Bonobo (perhaps the most successful name in the genre in which he plies his trade) is just “yoga bells and tantric wanking sounds.” But it is perhaps this very confidence that helped make Jon Kennedy one of the most important names in downtempo electronic music. After all, this is a man who got his big break in 2000 by walking up to UK music legend Mr. Scruff and putting a demo CD in his hand. The result – getting signed to the hugely respected Tru Thoughts label – came as little surprise. “I knew that they – and labels in general – were releasing similar and much shitter music,” he explains. “[Getting signed] was of course great, but I knew someone would sign it if they just heard it.” A well-received 2001 debut, We're Just Waiting For You Now, vindicated the self-belief. While the record sat firmly in the realm of downtempo, it displayed a refreshing eclecticism, encompassing influences from across soul, hip-hop and rock. Over the course of a further two albums, numerous EPs and remixes (he estimates that he’s produced over 150 tracks), Kennedy has proven himself to be a talented multi-instrumentalist. Having started life as a drummer, he now plays guitar, bass and vocals on his own records. When we speak, he’s in the process of learning an “Arabian bamboo flute thingy.” Oh, and he’s a writer, currently contributing to Vice in the Czech Republic, where he now resides. “I can just do things,” he explains, with an apparent sense of selfawareness. “I’m one of those super-annoying dudes that is good at 3 4 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

stuff. My old bass player used to get pissed off at me all the time for it. [He’d say:] ‘You just fucking pick something up and turn it into a cool sculpture.’” He’s right: humble non-polymaths do find it annoying. But although Jon Kennedy comes across as a confident man, he also comes across as a genuinely likable one. Before our interview he sends me links to his new album and seems to value the feedback. He communicates in endearing emojis (a favorite appears to be d-_-b – a guy with headphones, presumably), and offers all readers of That’s Beijing a free download that you can find below this article. Kennedy’s attitude to making music is also wonderfully positive; something best summed up by his views on the release of two remixed versions of his latest album, Corporeal. Featuring reworkings of his songs by over 30 artists, the records traverse a dizzying array of genres and tempos. “It was a risk [but] I wanted it to span everything and I think it does. Psych to house to live funk to poppy drum and bass,” he explains, before addressing the concern that its variation might alienate some listeners. “I think it’s great that you can pick and choose which track you want, unlike the old days when you had to buy the whole LP and skip the lesser tracks to get to your favorite. It is wholly reliant on the listener and that is the beauty of music.”

Sat Jan 9; RMB50; Dada (see Listings for details)

FREE DOWNLOAD: Jon Kennedy is offering readers a free track ahead of his Dada show, just go to https://jonkennedy.bandcamp.com/track/sik and enter $0 to download.

U N D E RFGERAOT U NR D E | ARTS

GOING UNDERGROUND in Association with Wooozy.cn by S o p h i a Pe d e r s o n

Mongolian blues outfit, Esreg, out in the grasslands

SOUNDS OF MONGOLIA Part 1

R E CO M M E N DAT I O N AJINAI Ajinai are arguably the best Mongolian band in China and it’s a real treat to see them play live. Started in late 2009 by Hanggai’s former horsehead fiddle player Hugejiletu (who left his old band after growing tired of nonstop touring in Europe), Ajinai still centers around its founding member, with the supporting band moving fluidly between expert musicians. Hugejiletu comes from a background of musical genius – his father is a well-known and respected artist – and he started studying the horsehead fiddle (or matouqin) at an early age. On first listen, Ajinai’s sound is pure Mongolian, but dig deeper and you’ll find many different influences forming songs that connect on an emotional level. Listen: ethnocloud.com/ajinai

ESREG In 2011, Ajinai’s first lead singer Aazi went back to his hometown for a few months. Upon returning, he joined forces with a friend, Bayintu, to form Esreg – a fusion band blending blues and Mongolian. (It might sound like an odd mix, but there’s actually an entire Mongolian blues documentary called – naturally – Ghenghis Blues). Aazi’s clear, high voice and distinct Mongolian singing sit above double bass, guitar and horsehead fiddle, making for a fun performance. While it might not suit the

“In Mongolia, the environment is tough, all its four seasons are very drastic, and life is full of spirit. Mongolians are actually pretty rock and roll.” This explanation for the Mongolians’ buzzing music scene (offered by Burenbayar, drummer of Inner Mongolian folk-rock band Ajinai) is as good as any. All we know is that there’s always something exciting going on there. While Hanggai are probably the most wellknown ethnic Mongolian band in China, under the surface you’ll find a thriving scene of Mongolian musicians with their own unique sounds.

taste of traditionalists, Aazi has dedicated his life to keeping Mongolian culture alive. He crafts jewelry (often from camel or lamb bones) and leather goods by hand using traditional methods. “People often ask me how I learned how to make jewelry or bags, but I never ‘learned’ how to do it, it just comes naturally,” he explains. “When you grow up in the grasslands and live in a yurt, moving from season to season, you just naturally begin to fix, sew, mend and create.” Esreg is an expression of his life on the grasslands – paying homage to his roots while creating music for the modern day.

TULEGUR GANGZI Two guys (Gangzi and Zong Can) with some guitars. Pretty simple set-up. Their song lyrics are sung in Mongolian but are delivered more like Putonghua. Listen: xiami.com/tulegur

Mongolian four-piece Ajinai

Listen: site.douban.com/esreg T H R E E M O R E TO WATC H

ZULU Although I liked throat singing immediately, I’ve been told that it’s an acquired taste. Try Zulu. Started in 2007, the band members are Ethnic Mongolians, Uighurs and Han from Xinjiang. Listen: xiami.com/zuluband

HORSE RADIO If you only listen to one song, make it ‘Yehua’ (‘Wild Flower’ ). Sounds like happy-go-lucky folk. Listen: site.douban.com/taantowch

Going Underground with Wooozy is a monthly column written by Sophia Pederson, exploring the Chinese rock scene. Launched in April 2009, Wooozy.cn is a Chineselanguage online specialist music site, focusing on the latest and best underground and mainstream sounds from China and beyond.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 3 5

General

ARTS | BOOKS

s lived in China has stories to tell. nd Chinese alike, this is a land that every day, with something to write corner. Collected in this anthology ions, a mix of narrative non-fiction, y, from the writers' colony the Anthill Together, they offer glimpses into this ntry—by turns funny, touching and we stay or leave, the stories remain.

hology collects some of the most interesting m new and mostly young writers who live ience it at street level.” —Jeremy Goldkorn, founder of danwei.org

n of stories and poems that capture the odd oreigner's consciousness immersed in the ch member of the Anthill tribe of writers ective to offer, and the narratives all offer fuddlement, farce and shared humanity a experience so life-changing.” —David Moser, CET Beijing

we’re

here

edited by Alec Ash & Tom Pellman

m the crew at the Anthill will give readers all its weirdness, wonder and warts. it’s a se perspectives that, taken together, create l picture of this place in this time.” —Kaiser Kuo

while

w h il e w e ’ r e h e r e

e we’RE here

chinA storiEs From A WritErs’ colony

EditEd by AlEc Ash & tom PEllmAn

WHILE WE’RE HERE

An Anthology of Personal Stories From Some of Beijing's Finest by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

In a sense, writing an in-depth review of While We’re Here is superfluous. All of the short works in this anthology are distinct from one another and available in full online at The Anthill – the selfdescribed “writers’ colony” from which they were selected. It’s like Amazon’s ‘Look Inside’ function on steroids. But even if you have read some of these 33 works of fiction, nonfiction and poetry already, let this not dissuade you from buying a physical copy. I make this case on moral grounds – all proceeds will help The Library Project provide books to orphanages and primary schools in rural Asia – but also because the type of personal, narrative-driven writing that The Anthill is known for deserves to be on your bookshelf. It is rare that a book on China (in English, at least) is published for the enjoyment of those of us actually living here. These are stories that, according to the book’s Co-Editor Alec Ash, “would otherwise go untold” for precisely this reason. While some of the entries could, and should, appeal to wider audiences, While We’re Here does not pander to them. You can read oft-used acronyms without explanation, and see the word ‘Weibo’ without it being followed by ‘China’s version of Twitter.’ This familiarity is what appeals the most. In Jonathan Rechtman’s ‘Model Worker,’ the author’s brief encounter with Chengdu’s Western Modeling Agency will instigate a knowing smile from those foreigners who have been afforded surreal opportunities by virtue of their ethnicity. And in Sam Duncan’s humorous account of his time in Heilongjiang (‘Ayi and I’), his landlord’s assertion that “the TV would work fine as soon as the housing contract was signed,” resonates not only because it’s funny, but because I know that landlord. He’s every landlord I’ve ever had (or every agent, at least). Some of the anthology’s best entries come from characters not 3 6 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

primarily known for writing, such as Great Leap Brewing’s founder Carl Setzer, who recalls paying his last respects to father-in-law. His story is a reminder that While We’re Here is – like The Anthill itself – at its most captivating when confronting the personal. Among the best of the other memoir-style contributions is ‘Examining the Past’ by That’s Beijing’s former Senior Editor Karoline Kan – a heartbreaking tale of how family pressure and the suspension of the gaokao during the Cultural Revolution denied her father the chance to pursue his dreams at university. Our affection for this collection has nothing to do with the appearance of That’s Beijing contributors – past and present – in its pages. But while we’re on the subject: former Editor-in-Chief Robert Foyle Hunwick offers a fantastically entertaining account from inside one Beijing’s last remaining bathhouses (‘Shower Business’); author of our monthly Chinese Urban Dictionary column, Mia Li, regales us with her dad’s request for a VPN for Fathers’ Day; and former columnist Carlos Ottery (aka Beta Dad) provides a standout dose of flash fiction introducing his character Leroy, the tragic laowai we know all too well (“Back home in Norwich, there was no way he could be doing this sort of stuff, which, come to think of it, was probably why he had left… Beijing was his home now, and in Beijing he felt he was kind of a big deal”). But far from being a Twitterati circle jerk, this is a collection of personal stories from China that will make you wish that you’d kept a diary all this time. While We’re Here is a book that was made for us – while we’re here, at least.

While We ’ re Here is published by Earnshaw Books and is available at The

Bookworm (see Listings for details) or by emailing orders@earnshawbooks.com. The book is also available on Kindle through Amazon.

F EDA AT N UC RE | ARTS

GATSBY REVISITED

Jazz Age Classic Gets a Contemporary Ballet Makeover by Zo ey Z h a

Had Lana Del Rey walked into any Chinese KTV after the 2013 film version of The Great Gatsby, she may have been shocked by how ubiquitous her song from the soundtrack, ‘Young and Beautiful,’ had become. The success of Baz Luhrmann’s glitzy reimagining of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s iconic novel was not only a result of its modern flourishes, but also its contemporary soundtrack. So as British dance company Northern Ballet prepares to bring its own spin on The Great Gatsby to Beijing, complete with symphonic scores, it risks losing Chinese audiences. But artistic director David Nixon OBE is confident in the show’s music, which consists primarily of works by the Academy Award-nominated composer, Sir Richard Rodney Bennett (Murder on the Orient Express, Four Weddings and a Funeral). “The music is a triumph, capturing not only the dramatic elements but painting the mood and atmosphere of the times,” Nixon raves. But can the company succeed in adapting a story so inextricably linked to its 1920s Jazz Age setting? Along with his dynamic creative partner and set designer Jérôme Kaplan, Nixon is up for the challenge. “Although [our version of] The Great Gatsby is definitively a ballet, there is also a variety of styles such as the Charleston and Tango included,” he says. “The scenes have a very contemporary approach that, combined with a variety of musical choices, results in a great show.” The biggest challenge for the Northern Ballet was adapting Fitzgerald’s florid prose into movements. Fully admitting that it was an impossible task, Nixon instead focused on bringing “the

characters, their love and passions to life.” If anyone can pull this off, it’s The Northern Ballet. Named Europe’s Best Dance Company at the 2014 Taglioni European Ballet Awards, the group has established a sterling reputation for adapting classic literary works like Cinderella and Nineteen Eighty-Four. “This ballet is not intended as a replica of the book, but as a performance work inspired by it and adapted into dance,” Nixon adds, explaining that characters like the shadowy Meyer Wolfsheim have been eliminated while other relationships and scenes have been expanded. “There is also the metaphor of a young Daisy and Gatsby which thread through the ballet as a reminder of the moment that transformed Gatsby’s life,” Nixon adds. “He never really moved beyond [their meeting], even though time did.” An avid fan of Fitzgerald’s finest work since reading it as a teenager, Nixon believes The Great Gatsby’s appeal lies in its enigmatic protagonist. “Although most people find Nick to be the only redeeming character, there is an extraordinary singleness behind Gatsby,” Nixon says. “It is his capacity to love so deeply his separation from the real world that makes him singular. The sad thing is that it was a dream he longed for, not the present reality.” If Leonardo di Caprio’s Gatsby wasn’t able to capture your heart (as it failed to with The Academy’s Oscar voters), the Northern Ballet’s bold adaptation might work unexpected wonders still.

“This ballet is not intended as a replica of the book, but as a performance work inspired by it and adapted into dance”

Feb 3-5, 7.30pm; RMB220-1,200; NCPA Opera House, 2 Xi Chang ’ an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街 2 号 (book tickets online or via sales@theatrebeijing.com)

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 3 7

restaurant

awards

restaur

FORK

If you’re having dining problems I feel bad for you son. I got 99 problems but a dearth of restaurant choices ain’t one. We considered writing one long restaurant-themed rap for this intro, but when we read the above sentence aloud in the office, in a British accent no less, we realized how painfully un-hiphop we truly are. Nevertheless – that didn’t stop us from throwing Beijing’s biggest, baddest party last month: The That’s Beijing Golden Fork Restaurant Awards, which saw us ditching our laptops for live rap, loads of booze and a Golden Age hip-hop soundtrack (‘cause it’s not the Silver Fork Awards, ya know?). This year’s party celebrated the glittering array of streetsmarts and realness that render our city’s dining scene veritably dope. There were upsets. There were triumphs. There were underdog small businesses that garnered enough reader votes for a victory. And then there were the ones who didn’t give a shit about our awards and left us calling out their names onstage like no-friend losers. (“Zhang Mama? Zhang... Mama?”)

Special shout-out to the team at L.A. Palms Kitchen and Bar who sported

coordinated coordinated neck tattoos at the party (yes, you read that correctly; no, they’re not permanent). If there’s one thing this year’s Golden Fork Awards taught us, it’s that restaurants in Beijing aren’t just good. They’re wacky, unique and thoroughly unpretentious. And, Beijing, that’s exactly what makes you great.

restaurant awards 38

restaurant of the year

R eader's choice

TRB e ditor's choice

Okra 1949

Michelin, Maybe Do you think Michelin will come to the Chinese Mainland?

ax Levy was surprised that his restaurant, Okra 1949, won That’s Beijing ’s Editors’ Choice for ‘Restaurant of the Year.’ Which is weird, because we were surprised that he was surprised. Levy’s endlessly creative sushi restaurant has been dropping culinary bombshells on Beijing since its opening, and its success is the reason why this interview took place over the phone – Levy had to call us from Hong Kong, where he’s busy opening a second location.

I’m sure they’ll have a very thin Michelin guide come out at some point. But how do you even rate the restaurants? Do you just give all the stars to Da Dong and TRB? What do you do? Honestly – and I’m not just being diplomatic – I’ve thought about it many times, and I’ve never figured out how they’d be able to do it.

A boss of mine actually rejected his Michelin star. I don’t know if I would reject it [laughs], but I don’t wake up every morning thinking: ‘What can I do to get a Michelin star?’ Okra still operates based on what I feel is right, and how we’re going to give not only a good experience to a customer, but also a unique experience. But of course it would be awesome to win a Michelin star, especially as an American, because I remember when I was growing up, Michelin stars weren’t in the US at all. On the ground floor [at Okra Hong Kong], there’s more of a relaxed bar-like atmosphere. But on the second floor, we have a sushi bar that has some elements of what would be considered a Michelin-star sushi bar.

The lack of pretention. Bottom line. For example, when I’m at the sushi bar in Beijing, random people who I don’t even know will just come up to the sushi bar and talk to me. You can laugh, but I like the fact that people feel comfortable. They’re not being rude, but you don’t feel comfortable doing that in Hong Kong. In New York especially, you would never do that, and if you did, people would just give you dirty looks. I think that’s the main thing Beijing has over most cities – not just in Asia, but even in the world.

Is winning a Michelin star a goal of yours?

What are those elements?

You’ve worked in Beijing for eight years. What do like about Beijing’s dining scene?

It’s about exclusivity now, and intimacy. That’s because here in Hong Kong you can go to places and the bill, without alcohol, will be over HKD2,000 (roughly RMB1,700). If you’re spending that kind of money in Beijing, you’re at minimum getting a private room or you’re getting some sort of intimacy. Whereas here, you’re not guaranteed that.

text by Noelle Mateer

RESTAURANT AWARDS

R eader's choice e ditor's choice

Best Healthy Eats e Moka Bros

R TRIBE The past year saw more and more Beijingers becoming interested in healthy, organic food, and no-one led the charge like TRIBE. Although it first opened in 2014, TRIBE proved itself in 2015 as more than a place for lunch. The tribe behind TRIBE staged organic-food seminars, fun runs and workshops throughout the year – many of which aimed to educate people about the nuts and bolts of a healthy lifestyle. Sure, the organic food movement still has a long way to go in this city, but with passionate businesses like TRIBE, we’re sure it will go places.

Best Café/Deli

Best Bakery

e Zarah

R Café Flatwhite We would have used a picture of pies, had owners Wilson and Emilie not pretended to be dinosaurs in this photo. Dinosaurs! Seriously! Typical behavior, though – Rager is the kind of place that makes snob-worthy third-wave pour-over coffees, but is so unpretentious about it that they’ll also mix it into cocktail buckets. And for that, they deserve the win. (Oh and the pies, too.)

Café Flatwhite was the first cafe to introduce the flat white to Beijing (not Starbucks!). And years later, they’ve still got it. Despite everincreasing numbers of coffee shops in our city, Café Flatwhite’s win by reader poll proves that everyone loves a classic.

R Rager Pie e Sweet Tooth Bakery & Cafe

Best Steakhouse

Best Pizza

Steaks at The CUT are a rare gem in Beijing’s dining scene – ha, see what we did there? But seriously, if you didn’t know, now you do: Fairmont Beijing makes a mean steak. Congrats on a job well done, you guys. (Sorry.)

It’s not a Beijing awards ceremony if Great Leap doesn’t win at least something, right? This time around, we gave the crew ‘Best Pizza’ for its creative, artisan pies available at the #45 location (while readers voted the #12 location winner of ‘Best Burger’).

R Bottega

THE CUT, Fairmont Beijing

E Great Leap Brewing #45 Brewpub

R Morton’s The Steakhouse 40

best new restaurant

R eader's choice Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar (Liangmaqiao)

e ditor's choice

TRB Bites

ould you slow down a little bit?” asks our photographer, Holly. “Sure,” says TRB Bites’ Head Chef Sidney De Hart as he fiddles with a veal dish in his kitchen. The shutter of Holly’s camera whirrs and snaps for the next minute. Then De Hart, who helms the kitchen alongside chefs Niels Desnouck and Arnaud Guilloux, appears to subconsciously speed up. “Could you slow down again?” Holly gently reminds him. “Sorry,” he says, smiling. De Hart’s serious, fast-paced demeanor in the kitchen is in contrast with the De Hart we’d just spoken with outside of it – remarkably laid back, soft-spoken, tattoos poking out from beneath his chef’s uniform as he describes to us how “casual” and “fun” TRB Bites is. Casual and fun it is indeed. And yet with very serious cuisine. As our initial magazine preview of TRB Bites was written during its soft opening period, we are yet to run a full review. So let us take a moment to evaluate the place: it’s great. It is Beijing’s ‘Best New Restaurant.’ TRB Bites is the fun little sister of TRB (Temple Restaurant Beijing), a restaurant so elegant it seems like the kind of place people might get engaged in. If TRB is a regal dame, then TRB Bites is a professional 30-something – young enough to appreciate a good deal; established enough to enjoy a splurge. Classy enough to desire white tablecloths and exquisite service; relaxed enough to pump upbeat music overhead. We’d continue with this analogy, but you get the idea. The food on offer is European fare that

No Bark and All Bite balances creative mixtures of flavors. We especially love the bone marrow with snails, garlic and parsley; the veal tenderloin with crayfish (De Hart’s favorite dish on the menu – “a little bit of surf and turf”); and the decadent chocolate and milk textures. But we love pretty much everything else available, too. While we tend to save visits to TRB for special occasions, we can picture ourselves frequenting Bites with alarming regularity. The reason for this is also a major reason why we selected it for ‘Best New Restaurant’: value for money. You can get in and out of Bites for less than RMB200 (it’s RMB188 for three courses). This opens the culinary world of TRB up to students, underpaid creative types,

text by Noelle Mateer image by Holly Li

"the chef’s serious, fast-paced demeanor in the kitchen is in contrast with the De Hart we’d just spoken with outside of it – remarkably laid back, soft-spoken, tattoos poking out from beneath his chef’s uniform" diners who have no clue what half the words on the menu mean… the people, damn it. And the people will be welcomed warmly, given TRB Bites’ fantastic service. In short, that’s why TRB Bites feels relaxed, because the staff does all the hard work for you. Kind of like De Hart says: “Everything here is fast and fun. But I don’t want to say we’re relaxed. We keep the pressure on in the kitchen.”

RESTAURANT AWARDS

R eader's choice e ditor's choice

R Drei Kronen 1308

Best German Drei Kronen 1308 is the scene of many a drunken evening (probably because we can’t get enough of its traditionally-brewed German beers). But it’s also a top destination for pretzels, sausage platters and the standout: pork knuckle. Meanwhile, Hopfenstube is our go-to spot for a post-shopping beer (also brewed onsite). It comes served alongside typically hearty fare and smiles from the polite staff.

e Hopfenstube,

Crowne Plaza Beijing Chaoyang U-Town

Best Pub Food

Best American

R Stuff’d

E Jing-A Brewing

If we’d have known Tim’s iconic space would get the axe just days after our awards ceremony (page 8), we’d have performed an on-stage eulogy. Alas, we didn’t – but fortunately for Beijing, Tim’s not letting leasing troubles get in the way of his year-round BBQ. He plans on opening another location (along with his burgers and what fans call ‘Beijing’s Best Margaritas’) later this year.

Taproom

Mala popcorn chicken, fish and chips, and one of the best kale salads in town – that all makes Jing-A’s pub food great, for sure. But what we really like is the commitment to collaborating with other restaurants through its Kitchen Takeover series, which this year featured Hagaki, Caravan and Pak Pak.

R Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q e Home Plate BBQ

Best Burger

Best Mexican

Beijingers bow down to the badass beef business betwixt the Boat’s buns. If you think the brewery is merely for bros into beers, you better believe it also bangs out Beijing’s Best Burger. [Ed: good alliteration – B+ for effort.]

Beijing is awash with Mexican restaurants, but Wudaoying Hutong’s Pebbles Courtyard (formerly known as Sand Pebbles Lounge) shines brighter and tastier than the rest. Its 2015 revamp kept all the goodness – rooftop seating and torpedo-sized burritos – while adding so much more, literally, as the restaurant expanded to fit twice the number of diners.

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom

E Pebbles Courtyard R Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar

R Great Leap Brewing #12 Brewpub

best Sichuan

e ditor's choice

Transit R eader's choice

Zhang Mama

verybody knows Zhang Mama. Or, at least, they think they do: big clay pots of boboji, fiery bowls of dandan mian, mouth-numbing plates of dry chili and pork. Oh, and lines. The ones that stretch for miles (and hours) outside the original Fensiting Hutong restaurant are the stuff of legend. And a legend is exactly what Zhang Mama has become. Because while the food is officially the hottest and most popular Sichuan grub in Beijing, the person – the ‘Mama’ – behind it all is decidedly more mysterious. Like, who is Zhang Mama? Does she even exist? We realized that while we’d frequented the restaurant, we had no idea. So questions were asked. Google was searched. A random blog post told us that Zhang Mama (the restaurant) is known among expats as “Sexy Noodles” because of its goodlooking owner. Um, OK. Anyway, we called the restaurant in advance to tell them about their nomination but nobody showed up to our Golden Fork Awards to accept

Who is Zhang Mama? her eventual award. We were sad. Zhang Mama had stood us up. More drastic measures were needed, so we went to the Jiaodoukou restaurant and requested an interview with the woman herself. To our surprise, we were met with warm smiles and enthusiasm. This is what we discovered: Zhang Mama is a friendly middle-aged woman, mama and owner-operator of three awardwinning restaurants in Beijing. In short, she’s pretty damn busy. “I really want to meet people and take part in interviews, but every day is so busy,” she says. “We have a lot of foreign and Chinese customers. I can see they are very satisfied when they eat our food. No matter what country people are from, they seem to love it.” True that. “I think it’s because the flavors we use are refined and we are always trying to make our dishes the best tasting,” she adds. Zhang’s family moved from Chengdu to Beijing in 2008 after running restaurants in both Sichuan and Guangdong. Cooking, for her, is a family affair: She learned how from her

mother, and today she cooks with a daughter of her own. When asked about her multiple locations, she speaks like a true Mama: “I opened up this one because there were always so many people waiting outside the Fensiting restaurant. In the winter it’s very cold and quite rough for these people to wait outside for so long. “I work every day until late. It’s quite tiring but I love cooking, and seeing our customer’s gratitude is really worth it.”

text by Dominique Wong image by Holly Li

RESTAURANT AWARDS

R eader's choice e ditor's choice

Best Southeast Asian

R Susu

E Malacca Legend Beijing is flooded with (admittedly delicious) Thai and Vietnamese dining options. But what about Malaysian? Malacca Legend is representing – with delicious results. We love stopping by for flavorful curries, huge tendermeat crabs and rich seafood noodles. This year saw a new location open in The Place (the first branch is in Shunyi), so if you’re a Chaoyang-dweller, getting your Malay food fix just got a whole lot easier.

Best Middle Eastern

Best French

R Al Safir

E Rumi

It was easy for us to go with the Flo for this one. The elegant venue’s classic French fare is reliably and finely executed. Also – and this is a hot tip, so listen up – its business lunch is a damn good deal.

Recent years have seen an eruption of Middle Eastern restaurants on the stretch of road running from Tuanjiehu subway to Taikoo Li. Nonetheless, Rumi remains our pick of the bunch – not just of Gongti Beilu but of the whole city. It has been cooking up consistently juicy Persian grill dishes for almost 10 years now, and long may it continue.

E Brasserie FLO R O’Steak

Best Indian

Best Spanish/ Latin American

This kitchen is hot. Seriously, it’s spicy. Indian Kitchen is our pick for Indian food in Beijing – everything from creamy curries to the flavorful chicken tikka. Tip: pick a smogfree evening and look out over the Liangma River while you eat.

Beijing is brimming with good Spanish restaurants – Nali Patio alone has a handful of them. But this year, Niajo stood out for its new menu inspired by a culinary field trip to Spain undertaken by Head Chef Alex Sanchez and Assistant Chef Pan Huiya. You could point at the tapas menu with a blindfold on and still wind up with a fantastic selection.

E Indian Kitchen R Ganges Indian Restaurant

E Niajo R The Woods

best CHAIN RESTAURANT R eader's choice

Din Tai Fung e ditor's choice text by Noelle Mateer images by Holly Li

Jindingxuan Dim Sum Till Dawn: The Jindingxuan Night Shift Challenge

hanks to its 24-hour service and tasty dim sum, Jindingxuan has always been there for us, like the loud, Cantonese mother we never had. In honor of her recent ‘Best Chain Restaurant’ award – we did the unthinkable: went from midnight to 7am (or attempted to, anyway). Not that we hadn’t been to Jindingxuan many times before during those sodden, slobbering hours. We just hadn’t been from midnight to dawn all in one sitting. And thus we decided to, as this would give us a fuller – dare we say anthropological – perspective on the institution. The idea simultaneously allured and daunted us. Would Beijing’s beloved bastion of baozi and belligerence ultimately shit us out, beleaguered, bitchier version of ourselves? Or would we reemerge at dawn triumphant, having looked into the face of God itself? (Answer to the latter: No. See note from 6.22 AM.) Here is the descent into Beijing’s drunken bowels that followed. Midnight: I enter with That’s Beijing photographer and designer Holly Li. We are stone cold sober. 12.14am: I order a Diet Coke. This is a marathon, not a sprint. 12.25am: A poppy, Cantonese version of ‘Joy to the World’ begins playing on loop. 1.03am: I bite into a bun full of custard. Normally I’d combat my lactose intolerance with sheer mental fortitude, but in this instance, I put the bun down. We’re only just entering the second hour, after all. 1.10am: The first screaming fight of the evening breaks out. This is what

we’re here for, people!

1.12am: The shouting man’s wife stops

the fight by slapping him repeatedly on his back as if she’s burping a large, drunk baby. 1.30am: My first visitor arrives. He works for a competing Englishlanguage magazine, so for the purposes of this article he shall be referred to as ‘Rick.’ 2.13am: “It’s 2am, and it’s fucking packed in here,” says ‘Rick.’ I agree. 2.30am: I start drinking. 2.31-3.00am: BEER BEER BEER BEER 3.05am: My second visitor, Kelsey, walks in and yells something about xiaolongbao at our waitress. Other people in the restaurant look over. This makes me feel very sober. I order another beer. 3.07am: ‘Rick’ walks out without paying his bill. [I know you’re reading this, ‘Rick.’ You owe me 200 kuai.] 3.15am: My friends David and Bill enter with whiskey. 3.16am: SHOTS SHOTS SHOTS SHOTS 3.21am: A couple passes out at the table next to us. 3.23am: Kelsey tells us all her Internet passwords. 3.34am: I update everyone as to my emotional status. I’m feeling confident! I’m feeling optimistic! We can totally do this! Seriously though, thank you guys sooo much for coming. I honestly have so much to be thankful for! Group hug? 3.35am: Holly says: “Why are you talking to us like this is an AA meeting?” 3.37am: That’s Beijing Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland arrives. 3.59am: MORE SHOTS MORE SHOTS MORE SHOTS

4.28am: Kelsey and I ‘interview’ some

of Jindingxuan’s other patrons. Two older men offer us shots of baijiu and then tell us we have nice breasts. 4.46am: An American approaches us, ostensibly because we are the only other visibly foreign people in the restaurant. “We should join tables!” he shouts. We decline. 5.15am: Oscar makes a joke. [What joke, I have no idea. This is the time of night when my memory becomes hazy. “Oscar makes joke” is all I have written.] 5.53am: Only David and I remain. 6.00am: Sober people enter for actual breakfast. 6:13am: David and I are fucking miserable. 6.21am: Our attempts to make conversation are futile. 6.22am: “Do you believe in god?” “No. You?” “Nah.” 6.25am: Wilson from Rager Pie texts, offering to let us hang out in his shop while he prepares breakfast. We leave Jindingxuan accordingly. [Disclaimer: This has absolutely no bearing on Rager Pie winning ‘Best Bakery.’ They won by reader vote.] 6.27am: Walking outside feels amazing. 6.38am: David falls asleep on the floor of Rager Pie. I take a picture. 6.40am: I think about how weird it is that my career path led me here. I then observe a smug moment of silence for all those who have less exciting jobs. 6.41am: During said moment of silence I consider the fact that those people can probably go to Jindingxuan whenever they want, without the remit of a magazine article. 6.41am: I fall asleep at the table at Rager Pie.

RESTAURANT AWARDS

R eader's choice e ditor's choice

R The Kitchen Table,

Best Hotel Brunch

W Beijing Chang’an

We love spending weekends indulging at Beijing’s lavish hotel brunches – and more specifically, our readers love doing so at W Beijing Chang’an’s The Kitchen Table. This hip dining spot is distinctly young and fun, and puts away any notion you may have of hotels being stuffy. Meanwhile, Matrix at Crowne Plaza Beijing Lido is the brunch that’s got it all – high-quality food of both the Western and Asian varieties presented on a buffet and in open kitchens.

E Matrix, Crowne

Plaza Beijing Lido

Best Korean

Best Japanese

E One Pot

R Iki

R Haru Teppanyaki and Sushi Bar

E Sake Manzo Sake master Taka Yamamoto has been supplying Beijing with quality Japanese cuisine for years – and 2015 was no exception. Sake Manzo continues to surprise us with its creative, intricately crafted Japanese food. Don’t forget to chase with sake.

Iki is so much more than kimchi. Our readers’ favorite for top-notch Korean serves delicious barbecue with high-quality slices of meat you can trust. And trust them we do.

Best Beijing Duck

Best Cantonese

E Summer Palace,

Every Beijinger has a favorite spot for Peking Duck. But where do discerning That’s Beijing readers go when they’re ready to get quackin’? With its ducks’ juicy meat and crispy skins, Jing Yaa Tang took this year’s crown.

China World Hotel, Beijing

Who says we don’t have great Cantonese in Northeast China? We do have great Cantonese, damn it, and it’s at Summer Palace. Not the former residence of the emperor – though that’d be dope – but the fantastic restaurant in China World Hotel.

R Jing Yaa Tang The Opposite House

R Lei Garden

Shang Palace

Shangri-La Hotel Beijing 46

best italian R eader's choice

La Pizza

“Mr. Bombana asked him to go to Hong Kong to train his Italian staff to make Italian bread”

e ditor's choice

Opera Bombana The Chinese Chef Teaching Italians How to Bake Italian

nze Jiang has never been to Italy. A lot of people haven’t been to Italy. In fact, most people haven’t been to Italy. But it’s just weird that Enze Jiang hasn’t (or rather, he hadn’t been when we interviewed him – his flight to Rome was the next day), because he’s made a career creating Italian pastries at Opera Bombana, winner of both ‘Best Italian’ and ‘Best Western Fine Dining’ in the Golden Fork Awards. And that’s not all. “Mr. Bombana asked him to go to Hong Kong to train his Italian staff to make Italian bread,” says PR Manager Jessie Zhang, referencing Umberto Bombana, the man behind the Parkview Green spot, and founder of Hong Kong’s three-Michelinstarred Otto e Mezzo Bombana. Jiang nods and smiles. Unlike his Italian colleagues, he did not grow up eating gelato and panettone. He grew up in Jilin, Shandong, where he started his career – humbly, in a local pastry shop. That was 10 years ago, when, according to him, Jilin didn’t have many desserts of any kind. Let alone Italian desserts. Let alone culinary schools for aspiring Italian pastry chefs. He was up against the odds. His ascent in the decade that followed is a testament to the value of hard work and determination. Jiang worked his way from a local Jilin bakery to Beijing, where we was able to learn from Western chefs at internationally minded hotels. In 2013,

he was chosen by Bombana to join the team that would open Opera. And this year, he’ll publish a recipe book alongside the restaurant’s Executive Chef Marino D’Antonio. “I’m so happy working here because Chef Marino and Chef Bombana 100-percent support me,” he says. “Even though I’m not Italian, they respect my technique and ideas.” He also says his creations align with the philosophy of the restaurant’s figurehead, who “has respect for all his ingredients and their natural flavors.” He gives us a taste of this with his Dulcey Garden, a delightful mix of dulcey panna cotta and Italian craft beer ice cream; a rich, chestnutty Mont Blanc; and a delightfully crispy pistachio millefeuille. Jiang humbly credits his mastery to the chefs and competitors he’s studied, but also to his own philosophy of hard work. He says he’s made it this far by simply setting one small goal at a time. By the time this has gone to print, he’ll have made it even further: Italy. (Although not forever, don’t worry – you’ll still be able to try his creations in Parkview Green.) When asked what he’s planned for his trip, his answer is simple. He’s going to eat. “I’ve gotten a lot of great restaurant recommendations,” he says. And with friends like Bombana and D’Antonio, they’ll certainly be good ones.

text by Noelle Mateer images by Holly Li

R eader's choice e ditor's choice

Best Brunch

R Migas

E Ricci Cafe Sundays are for rest, relaxation, doing anything you can to postpone the inevitable soul-crushing experience of Monday morning… and brunch. Ricci satisfies all of the above. In fact, we firmly believe that Ricci exists solely to make your life better. It ain’t easy, you say (or was that Cypress Hill?). True dat, but Ricci’s fat slices of pumpkin and candied-walnut French toast, rich ginger lattes, and crunchy salmon burgers do a damn good job of convincing us otherwise. Diagnosis: Ricci, always Ricci.

Best Family Dining

Best R Opera Bombana Western Fine Dining Bistrot B

R La Pizza

E Blue Frog

You’re not a real Beijinger until you’ve been to Blue Frog. Better yet, you’re not a real Beijinger until you’ve been to Blue Frog on a Monday for buy-one-getone-free burgers. The Shanghaibased chain has been serving families here for years, and with that much experience, you’re guaranteed to get great service too.

Best Hotel Wine List

Rosewood Beijing Bistrot B is the kind of place chefs like to eat at. (Seriously, do you know how many times we ask chefs where they like to eat? We’d know.) Rosewood Beijing’s French restaurant does serious fine dining for people who take fine dining very seriously. Worth the splurge.

Best Hotel Dining

R One East Hilton Beijing Hotel

VIC Bistro sets the standard for luxurious hotel dining in Beijing. The minute you walk through its gilded doors, you’re presented with a dizzying array of delicacies. It’s over-the-top done well. Don’t leave without drinking champagne.

Focusing primarily (although not exclusively) on bottles from Italy, the best thing about Casalingo’s wine selection is how thoroughly accessible it is. The menu even comes with a color-coordinated key to help the average diner make their own pairings without having to pretend to know about wine.

E Casalingo

JW Marriott Hotel Beijing Central 48

VIC Bistro

Sofitel Wanda Beijing

Grill 79

China World Summit Wing, Beijing

RESTAURANT AWARDS Best Yunnan

R Hani Gejiu

Best Casual Dining

E Rainbow Yunnan Restaurant

Where do Yunnanese government officials go to eat when visiting the capital? Rainbow Yunnan Restaurant. Little-known fact: Crowne Plaza Beijing Sun Palace is run by the Yunnan Provincial Government, and therefore its restaurant is one of the most authentic in town.

Best Wine List

R Aroma The RitzCarlton, Beijing

R Temple Restaurant Beijing

E Niajo

Sure, you’re eating in a ‘kitchen.’ But this isn’t your mother’s kitchen. Unless your mother’s kitchen is run by a huge, multitalented staff making everything from Hainan chicken rice and tender Wagyu beef to durian panna cotta. It is? Lucky you.

This wine list is so good, it comes with a map. Niajo’s Alex Sanchez picks nothing but excellent varieties from his home country of Spain and then arranges them into an easy-to-navigate list. There’s something for novices and aficionados alike. Our suggestion? Do as we do and get a recommendation from the knowledgeable staff.

E Kerry’s Kitchen Kerry Hotel, Beijing

Best Asian Fine Dining

Best Al Fresco Dining

Sure, you could dip your sashimi in soy sauce and wasabi. But we like to think good sushi doesn’t need that. Yotsuba flies its fish in daily from the best markets in Tokyo, and it pairs best with the restaurant’s excellent service and calming atmosphere.

E The Rug

R Zarah Zarah’s courtyard is hutong renovation done right. Come the warm months – which are, admittedly, a while from now – this is our favorite spot to sip espresso. Even the cushions at the storefront steps leading down to Guloudong Dajie are a welcome touch.

R Yotsuba E

E The Rug The Rug’s menu reads like a book. And we don’t just mean it’s long – we mean it’s interesting and multifaceted. The owners create dishes inspired by their travels, so we’ve had everything from savory Northern European pancakes to Thai-style ribs while sipping from an impressive wine list. This isn’t just a place for brunch.

Crowne Plaza Beijing Sun Palace

Best Buffet

R TRIBE

Choy’s Seafood

Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast 49

RESTAURANT AWARDS

s tella Artois recommends RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR Home Plate BBQ Do you wish you were a little bit taller? Wish you were a baller? Wish you had a girl who looked good, you would call her? Dave Bob Gaspar doesn’t. First, because he’s married. Second, because he’s arguably the coolest person in Beijing (attached is a photo of him rapping at our Golden Fork Awards for reference). Dave Bob left Beijing for good last month, and while we’ll miss him, we’re comforted by the fact that we can always go reminisce over pulled pork sandwiches at the place we saw him the most: Home Plate BBQ, Beijing’s American-food institution.

BEST NEW RESTAURANT Bottega Italian lesson for you: the word ‘bottega’ means ‘small shop.’ And – while Beijing’s Bottega is small(ish) and hidden down the back of an alley – this small shop has a big presence. We first met the Fratelli Salvo (that means Salvo brothers) early last year, when they introduced us to their authentic Napoli pizzas: fluffy in crust, topped with the finest, softest mozzarella. Since then, they’ve rocked Beijing with their popular Monday deals (if you don’t know, go), partnered with other Beijing chefs for kickass events and imported the largest, fanciest pizza oven we’ve ever seen in our lives. In Beijing, as it turns out, ‘Bottega’ just means ‘good pizza.’

BEST ITALIAN Tiago Home Kitchen What’s with malls and Italian food? Parkview Green’s got Opera Bombana, Grand Summit has Tavola, Ginza Mall has the horrific Italian restaurant we go to because That’s Beijing’s offices are above it. Well, one of the finest examples of the Italian-restaurant-in-mall trend is Tiago Home Kitchen, in Lido’s Indigo. Put simply, Tiago is not merely a place to stop by after shopping. It’s worth traveling to Lido for. The Italian food on offer is low-maintenance comfort food made with quality ingredients, and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

Photos by Holly Li, Aaron Berkovich and Li Ruichuan

Special Thanks to:

EAT & DRINK G RAPEV IN E

S N AC KS A N D T H E C I T Y

In this month’s episode of Snacks and the City, we see a totally-Samantha bar, The Den, fall at the feet of the Charlotteof-all-Charlottes – local authorities. No but seriously, The Den is shut. See page 8 for our full report. While everything was closing down, Transit was celebrating its fifth anniversary with wine and plenty of peppercorns. The boozy celebration attracted Sichuan-food aficionados and generally well-dressed people. (N.B. Wear all black next time you eat at Transit. It is the unofficial uniform.) And Mosto isn't just continuing its existence (although we're always grateful that it does), but growing – new Chef Juan Mateus is wowing us with his innovations to the menu. And while we're talking innovation, by George! Cheesy joke, we know: The Georg is actually pronounced gay-org. It is in soft opening and already resplendent. We'll release our full review next month, but how's this for a preview: The Georg is the only place in town we'd spend RMB1,000 a head at and feel like we got a great deal. The food is that good. Meanwhile, Jing-A won’t stop hooking up with other brewers. Slutty, but we like it, we guess. The latest collab beer (Hutong Clan, RMB50) is strong, but sweet and highly drinkable – suitable for what might traditionally be called a ‘lady palette,’ but we don’t buy that gender-norm shit. Just across from Jing-A we find Long Jing. ‘A cocktail lounge in Courtyard 4?!’ you gasp. Well I never! Sincerely though, it is breaking away from tradition with cocktails infused with Chinese teas. We hope it turns out as cool as it sounds. NM 5 2 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

O F F T H E B E AT E N P L AT E

We’ve always said the most useful thing about the sprout-on-head trend is that it immediately identifies for us exactly who we don’t want to hang out with. Convenient! As it turns out, this mechanism also applies to food. This thing from Mrs. Wang’s on Gui Jie is wearing a sprout, and we never want to see it again. Based on its brown color and warm temperature, we were hoping for something along the lines of hot chocolate. How naïve of us. It is a sproutwearing, lukewarm buttery tea. The server threw in a wearable Christmas-themed sprout as a bonus. Double-avoid. Available at Mrs. Wang ’s; RMB32; 238-1 Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng, Mon-Thu 2pm-midnight, Fri-Sun 10am-1am, 东城区

东直门内大街 238-1 号 (010 5746 9506)

H E A D -TO - H E A D / F AS T - F O O D P I E S

VER SUS Pomegranate Pie

Black & White Pie

圣诞红右榴风味派 Available at KFC, RMB6.50

黑里白派 Available at McDonalds, RMB7

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

About half of the size of the McD’s pie but we’re hoping the flavor makes up for it.

Looks like an Oreo pie but it’s… coco-not.

INITIAL TASTE

The pomegranate pieces are poppin’ in the mouth (and it’s a little bit weird).

Despite the white filling bearing a striking resemblance to a certain bodily fluid, it’s surprisingly tasty.

SECOND TASTE

Fruity and pleasant, but slightly artificial-tasting.

There are fewer chunks and the coconut flavor is quite subtle. But this isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

VERDICT

Both have their moments. Surprisingly, neither is sickeningly sweet, but the creamy filling of the B&W pie is too good to resist. We are lovin’ it.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

BA RT I SA N S

T H E Y SA I D I T, W E R E A D I T

Paris Baguette Ever wondered what kids these days think of some of Beijing’s long-standing foodand-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: ubiquitous Korean-pretending-to-be-French bakery chain, Paris Baguette.

They told me their till was broken so I couldn’t use my coupon. Come on, you guys, I know you’re lying.

I bought a 'Frozen'-themed cake for my birthday and felt like a little girl again. Even though I was a bit disappointed by the plastic snowflake. PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

Pairs Baguette is my forever love! There are almond chips in the tuna sandwich, what a delightful surprise!

The staff was so stingy about giving us forks. Your boss isn’t going to raise your salary because you saved a fork!

This month, head bartender at Mao Mao Chong, Eric Liu, talks us through his winter warmer – the Hot Butter Rum.

N E WS B I T E

What’s the Beef?

If it looks like beef, smells like beef and tastes like beef, it probably is beef, right? Maybe. In the near future, we may have to add ‘cloned’ before any mention of the word thanks to global technology company BoyaLife. The firm recently announced plans to build an animal-cloning center in Tianjin, due to begin operating this year. But we may unwittingly be enjoying mass-produced cloned animal meat already – Chinese company BGI reportedly produces 500 cloned pigs a year. But with forecasts predicting that national beef demand will increase by 2.2 million tons before 2025, BoyaLife is taking things to the next level: The factory aims to clone up to a million cows per year. However, environmentalists are less impressed, citing the risk of disease in industrial-scale factory farms and their high levels of waste. But to play cattle’s advocate, the cloned beef is also expected to result in lower average prices when compared to the regular stuff. DW

— What’s that brown stuff you’re scooping into our glass? This is a special spiced butter that I keep in the freezer. The main spice is cinnamon but it also has nutmeg, a little bit of chili, a little bit of pepper… —So you’ve already done all the hard work? Yeah, this is the key! It takes a long time. You have to stir it for an hour to make it fluffy. I make a fresh batch every two weeks – each time I use over two kilos of butter. —What’s next? You mix it with some boiling water to melt the butter and then add rum – Jamaican rum or any dark rum works. This one’s not on the menu but you can always come and ask me for it. —Wow. That’s great. Really creamy and warming. Can you use the cinnamon stick as a straw? Sure [laughs], why not. Let me make you something else. —That'd be great. What’s this? This is a Sour Patch – mushroom bourbon, bison grass vodka, little bit of gin, lemon juice, this syrup [adds syrup]. I’m always making new drinks – I only developed this one a week ago. It’s refreshing but also a good one for winter. —Well it’s a real winner. So, while we’re here: Are we ever going to see a second Mao Mao Chong in Beijing? I don’t think so. It’s all about quality control so I want to focus on making this place good. OH Hot Butter Rum (RMB50) and Sour Patch (RMB55) are both available at Mao Mao Chong (see Listings for details)

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TIENS TIENS

TAVA L I N BAG E L S

CHARLIE CHAPLIN

This gleaming white space in Courtyard 4 has only just opened. But it’s worth stopping by before it gets rolling, because the artisan pastries and baguette sandwiches are out of this world. We sampled Vietnamese and Moroccan sandwiches (RMB65) on fresh bread. The man behind this place used to run a bakery in what is arguably the bakery capital of the world: Paris. It shows. Daily, official opening hours TBD; Courtyard 4, Gongti

Third time’s a charm for the New York-style bagel joint, which recently relocated to leafy Central Park. The new space is bigger and better, while the bagels (RMB14-43) are still the best in town: Crunchy yet soft and chewy on the inside, and generously filled. Add a coffee – grandes are just RMB23 – and you’re good to go (or stay).

Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路 4 号院

街 6 号新城国际 11 号楼 105 商 (139 1013 4884)

This place does fantastic brown drinks. Unfortunately, said fantastic brown drinks come at a relatively hefty price (the absolute cheapest is RMB80 – expect to pay closer to RMB100). And although we may be getting a little tired of speakeasy-style joints in Sanlitun, the general populace, it appears, is not – on the Friday night of our visit, there’s hardly a (plush, velvety) seat to spare.

Daily, 8am-8pm; Shop 105, Bldg 11, Central Park, 6

Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大

Daily, 7pm-2am; 27 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北区 27 号 (134 8885 3994)

is R ic e l e e h t f s i s ll You he Ha We Te Worth t

PIZZA VIEW

MEX MAX

TA N G

Expect casual class from the award-winning Opera Bombana crew at this pizza joint in Parkview Green, which serves Roman-style pies. A slice is equivalent to a generously sized small pizza and costs from RMB36 (Margherita), while salads (RMB58), cake (RMB38) and gelato are also available.

Mex Max is far from Mex-cellent, and the food isn’t cheap either (hi, Wudaoying Hutong), but it is passably tasty. The fish tacos (RMB42 for three) are somewhat like Taco Bell but with a nicer shell and better – quality meat. An inoffensive and pleasant night out, but you're more likely to find us at neighboring Mexican joint Pebbles.

“There aren’t enough cocktail lounges in Courtyard 4!” said no-one ever. Still, Tang is a competent addition to the shaking-andstirring crowd. And while we’re morally opposed to any bar that separates its menu into “gentlemen drinks” and “ladies drinks” [ugh], the warm East Meets West (RMB78) was undoubtedly tasty.

Daily, 11am-2.30pm and 4-9.30pm; 2/F, Parkview

Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路 9 号芳草地 2 层

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Daily, 12pm-12am; 60 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同60号 (131 4602 8499)

Daily, 7pm-3am; Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6415 9837)

RESTAUR A N T S | E AT & DR INK

CRACK

Going Back for More

wo rd s by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

The problem with Crack is that it’s frightfully addictive. Indeed, just hours after visiting this Thai dessert shop in Gulou, memories of its sweet, fluorescent offerings hijack our every thought. We find ourselves unable to sleep (that’ll be the perverse sugar intake), and when we eventually can, our dreams are invaded by visions of surreally colored drinks. This stuff is bad for us, and we don’t care. Every once in a while is alright, surely? Well, in the case of Crack’s signature treat, the Rainbow (RMB30), the answer is, unreservedly, no. Humans simply aren’t designed to consume such substances. Comprising layers of syrup and garnished with an upturned bottle of Arctic Ocean, the multicolored concoction comes with a metal straw because metal is the only known material that can withstand Crack’s sugar content. Half a hit on the Rainbow is enough to make your leg tap uncontrollably under the counter. One for sharing, we reckon. But this is ideal, because Crack is exactly the sort of place you might visit on an adolescent date. Having shuffled up Nanluoguxiang in near silence, you and your young sweetheart will need distracting as you wait for the sugar to kick in. And if you can’t get conversation flowing with a can of original Thai Red Bull (the variety that makes you twitch; RMB10), why not flirt over coloring pens, notebooks and an unrelenting onslaught of Mandopop slow jams? The whole affair is nauseatingly cutesy. But Crack’s not just good for dates. It’s also the sort of place you’d visit after a disappointing meal. It’s the sort of place you’d go for a Friday night pick-me-up. It’s the sort of place you'd stumble into after Dada, simply because it’s called Crack. It’s a Crack of all trades. As for us, we’ve been tempted in by the store’s logo (henceforth known as

the Crack Train). A painting on the inside wall even depicts three children riding said Crack Train. Their final destination will presumably be decided by the penguin at the front. For the sake of the Crack Train’s young passengers, we can only hope that it’s headed to a dental clinic. We have digressed (sorry, can’t focus) and there’s more sugar to come. Next up is a coconut dessert (RMB18), which delicately combines coconut flavoring and gelatin to make a cold, firm lump. We also enjoy a summery grapefruit drink (RMB16), which boasts the distant fizz of something that was once carbonated. The latter even comes in a re-sealable bag so you can take it away with you. Or stash under your floorboards for later, whatever. But then Crack throws us a curveball – it also offers ‘regular’ Thai food, like tom yum soup (RMB35) served in an ornate silver (plastic) bowl. As readers will be aware, Southeast Asian cuisine is all about balancing sweet, sour, salty and spicy. Crack achieves this balance perfectly by ensuring that all four are absent in equal measure. But given that this place doesn’t even have a kitchen, what did you expect? Get back to your dessert. Daily, noon-10pm; 242-1 Gulou Dong Dajie,

Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街 242-1 (134 3684 6474)

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E AT & DRINK | RESTAUR A N T S

BROTZEIT

A Casual German Walks Into a Mall wo rd s by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

If Brotzeit were a person, it would be a casual German. It would work for a digital marketing agency in East Berlin and have a nice collection of scarves. On weekends it would watch German football (a reference to Brotzeit’s comprehensive Bundesliga screening schedule) and go to one of those mixedsex saunas that have become the norm in Germany (a reference to Brotzeit’s penchant for wooden surfaces, not its customers’ liberal attitude to nakedness). This hypothetical character would long for reliable chain restaurants, but not want anyone to know about its desires. So luckily the latest franchise of this Singaporean chain – found on the first floor of Liangmaqiao’s Grand Summit building – is the first to open in Beijing. As such, it retains hiddengem status; because while you may not have heard of Brotzeit yet, it is offering a delightfully fresh take on the German eatery. Wood is at the heart of the Brotzeit aesthetic. It comes in a variety of shades and is employed liberally across tables and 5 6 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

walls. Diners sit on comfy leather benches bathed in natural light, giving the restaurant a warmth often lacking in mall settings. These all combine into something markedly contemporary, save for a mural of animals drinking beer in traditional Bavarian dress. But even this looks kind of neo-medieval, so still pretty fresh. Before moving onto the food, it is important to note that Brotzeit isn’t just a casual German – it’s something a casual German does. Let us explain. Literally meaning ‘bread time,’ brotzeit is a sort of meal-between-meals: smaller than a lunch, but bigger than a snack. A good brotzeit should offer (bread-based) food that is filling but light enough for you to progress to your next activity (a unisex Germanic sauna, for instance). So it seems only right that we begin with a pretzel. It is accompanied by Weisswurst (RMB98) – sausages made from both veal and pork – and followed by an excellent rye pizza (RMB98). The latter’s base is rolled just thin enough to stop the heavy dough

weighing it all down. This is the very stuff that ‘bread times’ were made for. But in truth, Brotzeit is more than just a bread stop. Given the menu’s assortment of platters and sharing dishes (including the spectacular pork knuckle, RMB228), a long lunch actually seems more appropriate. Sure, there are some affordable brunch options for the work crowd, but with the aforementioned football and imported Krombacher draft beer (RMB58 for 0.3 liters, RMB118 for a liter), a simple bread time seems insufficient somehow. Maybe this place should have been called Fleischzeit (meat time), Bierzeit (beer time), or some incredibly long and unpronounceable compound word that encompasses all of the above. But it doesn’t really matter – our casual German wouldn’t need to label time so strictly. Neither should you. Daily, 11am-1am; F109, Grand Summit, bldg 5, 19

Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路 19 号楼一层 F109 (8531 5166, www.brotzeit.co)

BA RS | E AT & DRINK

SCARLET A A for Alcohol by D o m i n i q u e Wo n g

GEORGE’S

The Grass is Parkview Greener wo rd s by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

Full disclosure: I’m predisposed to like George’s, the new bar at Parkview Green's Hotel Éclat. A couple weeks ago, I met head bartender, Sami Mersel, at a party. I said: “Hey, I’m gonna freak you out for a second.” He said: “OK.” I’d received a press release about him joining Eclat, so I knew who he was. And then I said that he’d worked at my favorite bar in Montpellier, France. And then I showed him the bar’s card, which I’d had in my wallet for years because it was my favorite bar in the whole wide world. Sami gushed happy profanities and raised his glass to mine. Montpellier is a smallish city in Southern France, and Papa Doble is smallish bar on one of its smallish streets – a tiny cobblestone alleyway (the European equivalent of a hutong, if you will). Papa Doble made me my first adult cocktail: silky, complex, seductive. And while I was a 20-year-old boozing my way through my studies, Sami was a 20-year-old studying his way through booze behind the bar of my dreams. We never actually spoke in Montpeller, but a few years later, we somehow both ended up in Beijing: Sami making drinks, and me writing about people making drinks. It’s like a rom-com, except we’re not getting married. Maybe we should though? So where were we? Right, this is a bar review, sorry. George’s. Sami’s bar in Eclat. It’s cool. Parkview Green has long been lacking a proper bar. And man, is George’s a proper bar. In fact, it’s two proper bars – one accented with 19th-century bowler hats and a perfume-bottle motif, and another (made for whiskies) at the back, which overlooks the artsy shopping center through floor-to-ceiling windows. Sami has crafted a shortlist of cocktails ranging from good to fantastic. We loved the creamy sweet chocolate martini (RMB80), but if your sweet tooth’s not as strong as ours, the delightful bell-pepper punch (RMB80) was interesting and… vegetal? I don’t know – just go try it for yourself, I suppose. The bar is, objectively speaking, an excellent addition to Parkview Green and to Beijing’s F&B scene (I mean, just look at those tailored suits). But while the dude has won international bartending challenges aplenty, he now faces a challenge altogether different: drawing cocktail loungers away from Sanlitun. Will he succeed? Only time will tell.

The 19th-century novel The Scarlet Letter: A Romance, in which – spoiler alert – the letter is A and stands for Adulteress, inspired the Hollywood comedy Easy A, starring a sassy red-haired Emma Stone. More recently, however, it also inspired Scarlet A, a new speakeasy in Gulou in which Scarlet stands for Scarlet, the whisky-loving bar owner. The bar in question has far more in common with the roaring 20s than 17thcentury puritanical New England, capturing hints of old-school glamour and prohibitionera ruckus. The space – hidden behind a heavy door and a pair of sliding shelves – is lean but substantial, with three distinct indoor and outdoorareas. Classy and (once you’re in) welcoming. More importantly: from the fun flavorprofile map on the menu to the presentation, the cocktails are inventive, refreshing and very well-priced, with a menu curated by BBC (Sanlitun’s resident cocktail mecca Bottle, Boot & Cigar). We enjoyed the Don Diego (RMB90), a smoky-sweet concoction of mezcal, Aperol and lime. Our jaunt also saw Jack, the bartender, whip up a Hester Prynne (named for the heroine of The Scarlet Letter, RMB55), a becoming gin, raspberry and egg white cocktail, and an Al Capone (a spicy rum-based drink infused with chocolate, RMB65). Overall, Scarlet A is a distinct nod to literary and pop-culture nerds that lets the flavors do the talking. If it’s a sin to look and taste this good, Scarlet A is unrepentant. Daily, 7pm-2am; 60 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街 60 号 (139 1084 6615)

Currently in soft opening, official hours TBD; George ’ s, Hotel Éclat, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路 9 号 (8561 2888)

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E AT & DRINK | RESTAUR A N T S

THE WOODS New Year, New Menu

wo rd s by D o m i n i q u e Wo n g , i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

The Woods, perennial Central Park favorite, is keeping things fresh. In August, a second, larger branch opened in Financial Street, catering to the discerning business crowd. Back at the first branch, the end of the year welcomed new winter dishes co-crafted by New York native Ahmed Labib. Labib (pictured) was an instrumental figure during The Woods’ inception two years ago, creating the continental finedining cuisine and quality service the restaurant is known for. After a brief stint in Manhattan, the passionate face of The Woods has since made a triumphant return. “I love bringing people together. People have to eat, it’s one thing we all have in common. “I’ve changed the menu but made sure the food speaks for itself. My steak is flown in from Australia, lobster from Canada, lamb from New Zealand. That’s something I’m a stickler about: quality and presentation.” The new dishes are thoughtful and delicious, with top ingredients really making

the difference. The baby spinach salad (RMB75) bursts with flavor and texture: a mix of six-minute egg, crispy bacon and warm champagne gastrique. Another highlight is the pan-seared scallops with tomato and pearl barley tabbouleh (RMB90) – a hearty yet fresh starter – while the duck duo (RMB130) is simply divine: A masterful lesson in balance, the rich duck leg confit with foie gras sitting beautifully with the tart sweetness of bruleed fig. “I like to keep people happy,” Labib says. Rest assured, The Woods’ new winter menu is sure to satisfy: unpretentious fusion cuisine done well in comfortable surrounds. Quite simple, really. Daily, 12-10pm; Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, 6

Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 6 号新城国际 1 号楼 101 (6533 6380)

S T E L L A A RTO I S R E CO M M E N D S . . .

HOME PLATE BBQ

New Bar Snacks Made for Drinking

Home Plate BBQ in Sanlitun is best known as a restaurant. This might have something to do with the tremendous barbecued meat dishes that emerge from its on-site smoker. You should all be familiar with those by now. But Home Plate is also a bar. A very good bar, in fact. So if you don’t fancy stuffing yourself with American goodness, you can always pull up a seat to nurse a drink in

IMAGE BY HOLLY LI

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front of your chosen sport (curling was being screened on our last visit). Beer is the order of the day, because as well as a long list of imported bottles, the bar also offers drafts from local brewers and international favorites. But no beer session is complete without snacks. In less reputable establishments – so the theory goes – bar snacks are cheap and salty, resulting in thirsty patrons. But in a place like Home Plate, it’s really just a chance to try some creations from the kitchen without committing to a full-on BBQ experience. So with five new items due to be added to the bar snacks menu this month, we grabbed a stool and a pint of Stella to try them out. First up – and the highlight of the bunch – is the beef jerky. You just can’t find jerky like this in Beijing. Not too chewy, not too crumbly, it retains plenty of flavor thanks to a one-day marinade (after which the beef spends up to six hours getting smoked). It goes perfectly with a cold beer, but don’t just take our word for it – this jerky was first

taste-tested by a group of eight US marines who came to the restaurant, according to outgoing restaurant manager, Dave Bob Gaspar. Next, we enjoy two varieties of peanut (one type coated in Memphis dry rub, the other boiled in the shell with spices) before rounding things off with two very different parts of a pig. For the first, its skin has been dried into dangerously addictive, gloriously puffy little curls. But the real winner is the pig’s ear, which has been thinly sliced, fried and served with a special sauce. This is the very fuel that your drinking session requires. All new bar snack prices TBC; Sun-Thu 11am2am, Fri-Sat 11am-3am; Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路 4 号院机电院内 (www.

homeplatebbq.com, 400 096 7670)

A DV ER T ORI A L | E AT & DRINK

IMAGE BY HOLLY LI

THE PARTY DON’T STOP TRIBE Gets Ready for a Big, Bad 2016 Just because TRIBE is healthy doesn’t mean it can’t party. It’s Friday night and TRIBE’s latest venture, TRIBE Nutrition at B Active, is bumping. Fitness freaks and foodies alike are celebrating the space’s opening with a live DJ, organic wine and some goofy abmuscle challenges led by B Active trainers, which some of the fitter TRIBE members are navigating deftly. The rest of us are falling on our asses, laughing. This boisterous celebration is a fitting way to round out the year. TRIBE’s 2015 was big, but the team promises a 2016 that’s even bigger. “The entire year has been full of exciting moments,” says founder

Yvonne Yu in a moment of reflection. “But I would say that launching a brand new business in the form of TRIBE Nutrition was the most exciting, because it was something new – not just for us but also for Beijing. There’s no other meal plan service around that’s as comprehensive as this.” TRIBE Nutrition launched this summer as a delivery service. Our self-admittedly unhealthy Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland tried it out to hilarious, but also inspirational, effect for our August issue. Now, with the launch of TRIBE Nutrition at B Active, he (and other fans, of course) can pick up meals just outside the popular Sanlitun SOHO gym. But that’s not the only new thing for TRIBE fans. The TRIBE team is already busy at work on plans for a second full restaurant in Lido, which will be nearly four times the size of the original Sanlitun outlet (read: huge). What to do with all those square meters? Yvonne says: “We plan to organize lots of fun-filled yet educational events here throughout the year, as well as offering our space as the perfect venue for our customers’ own private events. “We’re personally excited about creating a space that will feel like a home-away-from-home for our guests whether they are healthconscious foodies, families, working people, folks from creative industries or just about anybody in-between.” It’s a bold statement. Perhaps this tribe is becoming a clan? A society? A civilization? We’re not sure, but there’s one thing we can say with certainty: We’re looking forward to whatever’s next. NM Try healthy organic dishes at TRIBE, see Listings for details.

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COMMUNITY

COMMUNI T Y | T IGER FAT HER

WHAT’S FOR DINNER? How to Keep the Kids Full, Every Day by Tre v o r Ma r s h a l l s e a

We all know the feeling, we stay-at-home parents. Every so often we have without hesitation. to ask ourselves some scary, tough questions. And by every so often I “Leftovers!” she said. mean every day, around the same time. I served up a smile, on wry. Leftovers have long been a signature The questions are: “What, in God’s name, will I cook these kids for dindish of the harried parent. One parenting writer recently said the bigner?” And: “Must they really have dinner every single %*^#%* day?” gest bafflement of his childhood was that leftovers was all he ever ate, If you’re anything like me you’ll and that “the original meal was never start asking these questions each day, found.” To be fair, my leftovers are at about 6.30pm. This could explain “What, in God’s name, will I cook these special. two things: 1) Why I’ve been accused I once beheld a fridge full of old kids for dinner? And must they really meals of being an unimaginative cook, and and thought how terrible a 2) The huge bags under my children’s have dinner every single %*^#%* day?” lump of sweet and sour pork would eyes. look beside a slice of pizza and half Still, I resent the accusation from a sandwich. In a burst of inspiration certain members of my marriage that I’m not quite as creative as those I threw them all into the blender. I added an egg (there’s nothing that chefs she sees on the TV. The chefs are mostly about nine years old! My can’t be improved with an egg), made little patties and fried them up. I point is they’re so young they don’t know what they like yet. I, being old, then added the key ingredient of surprise, by calling it “Dad’s Leftover have developed a finely honed belief in what I like. And it’s so good I want Surprise,” and voila, a sort of miracle was born. to pass it on to my kids. And unimaginative? Even as I type this I’m conThe kids love it. I love it, because it avoids waste, and we have fun while learning the beautiful art of food preparation, or “chucking stuff templating boldly overhauling my signature dish and renaming it “Meat into the blender.” There are usually enough vegetables amidst the beand Four Veg.” Yes, family cooking is demanding. I now know why my own mother loved ‘lefties’ to make sure it’s even nutritious. Mostly though, I think seemingly gave up, alas some years before I was born. I’ve heard some the kids love it because it usually gets drowned in tomato sauce. people get organized on a Monday and plan, and shop for, all the dinners That’s possibly what I’ve learned the most clearly about feeding kids. they’ll cook that week. This to me sounds like dabbling in the dark arts. Or They’ll eat almost anything if it’s covered in ketchup. And spaghetti. at least it’s risibly nerdy. It also doesn’t account for what food mood you Never forget the spaghetti. might be in when 6.30 rears its ugly head on the ensuing, locked-in days. But one parenting/cooking tip beats them all: When you really are I can perform in the kitchen when I try, a bit, but sometimes with kids about to cook their favorite meal, always ask them first what they’d you wonder about the point of it all. A friend once asked our 9-year-old like for dinner. Chances are they’ll say what you’re about to prepare. Lani her favorite of all dad’s meals. I puffed out my chest as a pleased, if Nothing aids kids’ appetites more than having the empowering choice not smug, smile spread across my face. This was a no-brainer. Years ago of picking dinner. Or at least feeling like they had, anyway. I was moved to look up something called a ‘recipe’ (more dark arts, as I see it). This was because we were living on the coast and I felt like seaTrevor Marshallsea was a foreign correspondent in Beijing in the 1990s and returned a decade food chowder. It takes some trouble to make, but I can honestly say that later. This time around he stays at home to grow the kids. Read more of his domestic advenwhenever I do, people gasp, and in a nice way. Lani served up her answer tures at www.thetigerfather.com 6 0 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

EVENT | COMMUNIT Y

GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING CHRISTMAS PARTY AT BLUE MARLIN To get into the festive spirit this year, G TC Residence Beijing and Urban Family organized a fun-filled Christmas part y for G TC residents on December 3. Held at the family-friendly Blue Marlin restaurant, guests, parents and children enjoyed a delicious buffet dinner, free-flow drinks, music from the in-house band and a huge selection of luck y draw prize giveaways.

Latest issue Playing Indoors Winter Edition

new y of our fr e e c o p a p u k P ic pocket y e v e n ts il m a F n U rb a ! OUT NOW g u id e â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Follow Urban Family on WeChat

GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING / W W W.G T C R E S I D E N C E .C O M GTC serviced residence is an ideal option for families, especially those with children, and is one of the very few serviced residences in China to boast a sky garden within its private compounds. Situated within the Beijing Global Trade Center, its central location allows residents conveninet access to major commercial and business hubs in the city. All 134 of its apartments come fullyfurnished and well equipped with luxury fittings and appliances. Amenities include a 24-hour multilingual front-desk reception, business center, and gym, housekeeping, laundry and dry cleaning, and shuttlebus services. > 1 0 5 67 5 6666 / s ales @gtcresidence.com W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 6 1

Long Shen Dao / Gig

Toro y Moi Gig

HEAR

Arms and Sleepers Gig Ambient music doesn’t always make for a compelling live show, but US duo Arms and Sleepers bring just enough trip-hop substance to get your head nodding. Their use of synchronized visuals adds to the live experience. After a quiet 2015, we hope the pair pick up where sumptuous 2014 album Swim Team left off. Tue Jan 5, 9pm; RMB80 (presale), RMB120 (at the door); Dusk Dawn Club (see Listings for details)

Often referred to as China’s ‘first reggae band,’ it would be easy to dismiss Long Shen Dao as something of a novelty. But anyone who has seen the band play over their eight-year history will know that these guys are the real deal – and now they have a record deal with Modern Sky to prove it. To celebrate the release of their first album on the respected label this month, the band are putting on a reggae party at Yugong Yishan. As ever, you can expect an infusion of typical reggae sounds with traditional Chinese instruments and elements of electronic music. Long Shen Dao will be joined by visual artist VJ Yang2, MC Webber and DJ Raddam Ras. Sat Jan 2, 8.30pm; RMB100 (presale), RMB 120 (at the door), tickets available from www.modernsky.com or by calling 4001 680 650; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

B Bravo / DJ

School Bar Awards Gig

Since revamping a couple of years back, School has bolstered its reputation as the go-to destination for indie acts from across China. Heat Mark (pictured) head the bill for a special Awards night that also features performances from LaiSee, Death Narcissist and more. Sat Jan 30; Free entry; School Bar (see Listings for details)

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California-born producer B Bravo is one of the figures behind the West Coast’s funk revival (you can call it post-G-funk, if you want to give it a stupidlynamed genre). What this means is: chunky, deep bassline grooves and swinging drum patterns. This is electronic music that’s actually kinda… sexy. He’s got an eclectic record collection to boot, so expect his part-live-part-DJ set to serve up slices of RnB, soul and even a few slow jams for good measure. Still an active member of two funk bands, B Bravo is a natural live performer who has shared the stage with the likes of Erykah Badu, Chromeo, Dam-Funk and Flying Lotus. Fri Jan 15; RMB60; Dada (see Listings for details)

Chillwave king Chaz Bundick has taken his Toro y Moi project from bedroom solo act to full-touring band in the five years since his sample-heavy debut Causers of This. So while the American musician may have initially gained attention for his retro, synth-laden productions (fans of another recent Beijing visitor, Neon Indian, take note), his music has progressed substantially. With the present five-piece band in place since 2013, Toro y Moi’s new material is well suited to live shows, with latest album What for? bursting with tracks made for the stage. And yes, his name is half Spanish and half French – 10 points to you. Fri Jan 15, 8pm; RMB160 (presale) RMB (at the door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

All for Nothing Gig

There’s a good chance that this is the last time Mao Livehouse features in these pages. Sad news is filtering through about the venue’s almost certain closure (in it’s current location at least). But there are still plenty of chances to go and pay your respects. Our pick of the bunch is hardcore outfit All For Nothing. The Dutch band are loud, uncompromising and certain to bring the raw energy that the venue is best known for. Sat Jan 23, 8.30pm; RMB90; Mao Livehouse (see Listings for details)

Punchline Comedy / Comedy

Neon Beer Pong Activity

White River Ice Hike Winter has well and truly arrived, so why not meet it head-on by taking part in Beijing Hiker’s white river ice hike? The hike follows a trail down (and over) a frozen river in Miyun district, winding through canyons and steep rocky cliffs. Jan 16 and 24, 8am and 9am departures; RMB380 (RMB340 for members); Beijing Hikers (www. beijinghikers.com, 6432 2786)

Xmas Pop-Up Store Shopping

An Aussie, Brit and American walk into a bar… and many laughs ensue. Well, they should if Punchline Comedy has anything to do with it. This month, Beijing enjoys a stacked triple bill featuring comedians from up north to down under. Get ready to giggle as Andre Vincent (pictured) recounts his journey from circus performer to Bob Hope-approved comic; Wayne Deakin shows off the funny bone that has helped make him a worldwide festival favorite, while Dave Fulton showcases his characteristic “angry young man” humor, tinged with a dawning sense of adult responsibility. Keep an eye out for our interviews with the comics at www.thatsmags.com. Tue Jan 26, 8pm; RMB290; The Garage, Houshayu Yuyang Lu, Shunyi (100m East of Capital Paradise South Gate) 顺义区后沙峪榆阳路 (名都园南门东行100 米); Wed Jan 27, 8pm; RMB290; The Local, 4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院机电研究院内; Buy tickets online: ticketﬂap.com/punchlinecomedy

While beer pong is a stalwart of university campuses worldwide, neon beer pong is unique (we think) to 8-Bit, the premier hipsternerd gaming bar on Beiluoguxiang. Custom-made tables ensure proper gaming while special lights add to the crazy. Plus, everyone who plays can enjoy bottles of Kirin at RMB20. Every Wednesday, 9pm; 8-Bit, 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷13号 (134 8878 3848)

Beginners’ Mahjong Workshop

Star Trek / Exhibition

Are you in Christmas market withdrawal? Fear not: Living Room Coffee’s pop-up Christmas store is running until January 17. The mini market features artisan goodies and exhibitions by independent publishers and studios – and, of course, coffee. Through Jan 17; Living Room Coﬀee, Dashilan (across from Police Station), 23 Tan’er Hutong, Xicheng 西城区炭儿胡同23号 (5722 3061)

Trekkies unite as Star Trek: The Exhibition lands in The Place, the first stop for what is sure to be a cracking tour of China to celebrate Star Trek’s 50th birthday. Expect to be wowed by the largest collections of authentic Star Trek artifacts and information ever put on display. Items include a replica bridge from the Starship Enterprise, a timeline wall, the Scorpion fighter from Star Trek: Nemesis, Dr. Crusher’s sick bay and a motion simulator. And even if you have no clue what any of the above actually are, there are plenty of side events such as lectures, seminars, interactive kiosks and photo opportunities to get you in the know – because it’s never too late to learn Klingon. Daily through Feb 22, 10am-10pm; Price TBC; The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶

Mahjong is the quintessential Chinese game, using equal parts skill, tactics and calculation. The basic rules are easy to learn but it’s the stealing and strategy that are the tricky (and fun) parts. Culture Yard offers a training session – taught by local Beijing Mahjong experts – as well as a mini-lesson about the history of Mahjong. Sat Jan 16, 2-4pm; RMB120 (RMB40 for CY students); Culture Yard (see Listings for details)

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Chinese New Year Dumpling Making Cooking

Bottega Kitchen Takeover at Jing-A / Dining

TA S T E

Bubbly Weekends at Ramo Drinks Our favorite pizza-place-partyanimals, Ramo, have designed the ultimate weekend special: RMB35 glasses of sparkling, all day, both days of the weekend. With loads of pizzas and a DJ on deck, they’re just looking out for you. Saturdays and Sundays, 9.30am-late, all month; Ramo, 64 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同64号 (8403 5004)

Chinese New Year is a holiday of family, little red envelopes and… jiaozi. We firmly believe that dumplings are the best part of the celebrations, and The Hutong does too. The team there will be offering a dumpling-making class ahead of the holiday, so that when the festival does roll around, you will be prepared to roll some dumplings yourself. It’s not all work and no play, though – the class includes all-you-can-eat dumplings, beer and mulled wine. Just to get you in the holiday spirit. Happy Year of the Monkey. Sat Jan 30, 6-9pm; RMB200 per person (RMB150 for members); The Hutong (see Listings for details)

Two of our favorite spots in town are joining forces in the name of a foodand-drink combo loved by humankind since time immemorial: pizza and beer. And better yet, they’re doing it with some of Beijing’s best pizza, Bottega, and some of Beijing’s best beer, Jing-A. The event sees Bottega’s Salvo brothers setting up camp for the night in Jing-A’s taproom with their authentic Napoli fare. The entire menu is yet to be confirmed, but they’ve promised to bring their fried calzone, a word you should be pronouncing with three syllables, not two. We sampled the fried beast last month and can only heartily recommend it. Plus, this time around, there’s no need to purchase tickets in advance of the takeover. Just show up and enjoy. Thu Jan 14, 7pm-late; Jing-A Taproom (see Listings for details)

New Year’s Day Brunch at Bistrot B / Dining

Cheese Fondue at Zarah Dining

Winter Cocktails at Blue Frog Drinks

Just because Christmas is over doesn’t mean holiday cocktails are – Blue Frog has added mulled wine and Bombardinos (Italian après-ski cocktails) to their menu. Stop by for a sip of boozy warmth. All month; all Blue Frog locations (see Listings for details)

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Cheese fondue is the rich, creamy winter warmer of choice for people in Switzerland, the French Alps and… Zarah. Book two days in advance for a table in the yard, complete with heating and blankets, and gather friends to share a pot of melted Swiss cheese with. This is Zarah, so you will, of course, be drinking your choice of coffee or wine along with it. Fri Jan 8 and Fri Jan 22, 6pmmidnight; Café Zarah (see Listings for details)

We’re big fans of boozy brunching. Nay, we’re huge fans of boozy brunching. And there is no better day to do so than the first of the year. After all, it’s a day off – what else are you going to do? You can ignore those resolutions one day longer. Bistrot B is our pick for insane indulgence – the elegant French restaurant at Rosewood Beijing is offering a meal including French oysters, Japanese scallops, homemade paté and Italian black truffles. We can’t imagine a better way to while away the hours – or a more lavish one. Fri Jan 1, starts at noon; RMB420 per person, RMB560 with wine, RMB680 with champagne; Bistrot B, Rosewood Beijing (see Listings for details)

Probe / Art

National Ballet of China Triple Bill Ballet

SEE Louis Schwizgebel Wang Classical

Louis Schwizgebel-Wang is a Swiss pianist who gained international recognition when he won second prize at the Leeds International Piano Competition in 2012 and was named BBC Radio 4 New Generation Artist from 2013-2015. His recital at the Beijing Concert Hall promises to enthrall. Fri Jan 8, 7.30pm; RMB80-880; Beijing Concert Hall, 1 Bei Xinhua Jie, Xicheng 西城区北新华街1号 (tickets available via ponypiao@damai.cn)

Wangguo Feng deconstructs a simple photograph to form Probe, his first solo exhibition in Beijing. The pixilated square tile effect is the result of Wangguo digitally reworking each image, abstracting and enlarging portions, transferring to vinyl and affixing to the gallery’s walls. Challenging, unsettling and completely appropriate in a digital world, the observer is forced to consider what comprises an image and whether it’s the same once deconstructed. Through Feb 25, 10.30am-6.30pm; free; De Sarthe Gallery, 28-D Caochangdi, Chaoyang 朝阳区草场地艺术区328-D (8418 2441)

The National Ballet of China – China’s only national ballet company – is unique in its fusion of Western classical dance and Chinese culture. By creating its own original ballet performances – three of which will be on display this month – the company ensures a creative take on a typically set artform. Jan 12-13, 7.30pm; RMB100-600; Opera House of NCPA, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 (tickets available via ponypiao@ damai.cn)

I, Carmen Theater Shanghai from Modernism to Modernity, with Francesco Cosentino / Talk

Black Coal, Thin Ice Film

Thriller-noir Black Coal, Thin Ice follows two former cops (and expartners) as they investigate new killings in the series of murders which ruined their careers. The only link to the crimes is the same beautiful woman. Winner of the 2014 Golden Bear award from the Berlin Film Festival. Sun Jan 17, 7-10.30pm; RMB50 (RMB20 for CY students); Culture Yard (see Listings for details)

Francesco Cosentino is an author, cultural anthropologist and Sinologist, and is therefore perfectly placed to give a presentation of Shanghai’s rich and varied heritage of Art Deco and Modernist structures. He uses photos from his own archive to show some of the most interesting buildings from the roaring 1920s and 30s in Shanghai. The talk promises to be an educational look into the ongoing relationship between the city’s history and its architecture, as well as the people who helped drive its development. A must-see for urban design geeks. Wed Jan 20, 7:30pm; RMB50 (RMB40 for members); The Bookworm (see Listings for details)

María Pagés, described as ‘the leading innovator of flamenco’ (the New York Times), presents her version of Georges Bizet’s operatic classic, Carmen. Pagés challenges the myth of the femme fatale while maintaining the passion of the original, all set against music inspired by Bizet’s memorable score. Jan 16-17, 7.30pm; RMB160-880; Opera House of NCPA, 2 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng 西城区西长安街2号 (tickets available via sales@theatrebeijing.com)

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WEEKLY SPECIALS

Happy hours Meal deals Brunch

Food and Drink

Ladies' nights

Two Guys and a Pie Order six pies, get a random DVD. Two Guys and a Pie’s most recent deal is that simple – and man, is simplicity a thing of beauty. We guessed you had to be slightly off your rocker to open an Australian-style meat-pie shop in Beijing, but this quirky deal makes us sure of it. Anyway, the team (and by that we mean two guys) is marketing this as a ‘smogpocalypse day-saver.’ And as strange as the idea is, they're probably right. What better way to forget the pollution than with a beef pie and a copy of Taken 2? Or Despicable Me. Or... whatever movie it is they're offering. Single pies RMB30; order online at www.twoguysandapie.com or via WeChat (username: pieshopbeijing)

M O N DAY to FR I DAY MONDAY Mai Bar Buy two cocktails, get one free. > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

MONDAY TO THURSDAY XIU Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, 6-9pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)

MONDAY TO FRIDAY One East Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per person, 12:00-2:30pm. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿酒店2层 5865 5030 Great Leap Brewing 11.30am-2pm, free soft drink or juice with any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Pale Ale #6. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see Listings for details) Hagaki Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge. 5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 8414 9815 Agua Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ person for three courses. 6 6 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

> RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Greyhound Café Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details) Village Café Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB88+15% (2 courses) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5210) MEI All cocktails half off from 6-9 pm. > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang District朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083)

MONDAY TO SATURDAY Twilight Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, RMB20 off cocktails. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 (5900 5376)

TUESDAY Pebbles Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as you want. > Midday to midnight; 74 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同74 号 (8404 0767)

TUESDAY TO FRIDAY

杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

S.T.A.Y Restaurant Three courses including coffee and tea for RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Xian Whiskey night, discounts on special selected whiskeys. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9810)

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

Great Leap Brewing All day, one select beer at RMB25. > At Number 6 Courtyard branch, (see listings for details)

Domain Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger promotion. > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9830)

Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) MEI A glass of champagne or a champagne cocktail free for all ladies. Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label buy one bottle, get one free all night long. > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang District朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083) Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体西门58号 (6551 2373) 4Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ weekly celebration of KTV. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石

Opus Terrace Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888) MEI ‘Mad Men’ Thursdays, selected bottles of whiskey half off. > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang District朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083)

FRIDAY Mesh House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 free. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)

EVENTS

E V ERY DAY Parlor Daily 6-8pm, buy one get one for free. > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) The Big Smoke Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, house wines and beers. > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) Blue Frog Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all drinks. > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) Centro Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 (6561 8833 ext. 42) Feast (Food by East) Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% with a glass of wine or soft drinks. > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9820)

Flamme Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Modo Urban Deli 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 and beer RMB15. > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207) Mosaic 4-8pm daily happy hour. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Mosto 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and beer. > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030) NOLA 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails including daiquiris. > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水

南街A-11 (8563 6215) R Lounge Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard drinks and cocktails. > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 层 (5863 8112) Transit Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Isola 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138. 3-6pm Fashion high tea 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on selected drinks 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course RMB238, 3-course RMB258. > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) Bene Restaurant Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta. > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路 36号 (5798 8888) Cafe Sambal Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats

and vegetables each, varying daily. With soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets from RMB55-65 > See Listings for details Beijing Marriott Hotel Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles and desserts, including juice or tea, RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 8888) Vivid Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 6310) Transit Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert for RMB88. > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Factory (By Salt) Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ catering, from RMB150pp > Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street, 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区 798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼一层1号 (010 5762-6451)

WEEK EN D SATURDAY Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) R Lounge Selection of drinks for free all night. > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 4层 (5863 8241)

SUNDAY Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) The Village Cafe Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under 12) > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 Qi Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim sum including one double-boiled soup for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of

Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 6666) Senses and Prego Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne Brunch, international and Asian specialties with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 percent service. > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街乙9号(6629 7810) Seasonal Tastes Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent surcharge. > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路7号(5922 8880) Sureño RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for free flow Champaign (all prices subject to 15% service charge) > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240)

Vasco’s Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet with free-flow champagne for RMB458 plus 15 percent service charge. > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411)

SATURDAY TO SUNDAY

Eudora Station Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with one main and free flow juice or coffee for RMB98. > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 8331)

Agua Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 for free flow drinks. > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)

Migas Migas rocks two different brunch options: Saturday, grilled meat heavy; and Sunday, paella heavy (both RMB210, +RMB138 for 2hrs free flow cava, coffee, tea soft drinks). > Daily 12pm-3pm; Migas 6/F Nali Patio, Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北街那里花园6层

Aroma Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 percent service charge. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路83甲(5908 8161)

Sui Yuan Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 plus 15 percent surcharge. > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)

Café Sambal Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling out weekend brunch. Three courses plus coffee, tea or fruit punch. > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 43号 (6400 4875)

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6 8 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

CITY SCENES ‘If this is a charity ball, does that make these charity balloons?’ wonders partygoer at Dim Sum Disco’s Christmas charity ball at Migas.

My Nu Leng stop performing momentarily to lead the crowd through religious rites and hallelujahs at Syndicate Sessions at Dada.

Winner of two-person Switzerland ski trip surrounded by people hoping to be her plus-one at a party at the Cheers head office.

Guests eat French food as massive bouquet threatens to eat guests at the French Gala Night at Sofitel Wanda Beijing.

Child at EAST Beijing’s gingerbread-house-making workshop asks questions about Santa, learns some hard truths.

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LISTINGS OPEN DOOR

RESTAURANT

The Hot One Hundred About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

CHINESE Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界酒店2层 (5960 8822)

W BEIJING CHANG’AN W-hy Not? W Lounge is here to save your after-work plans. From 6-9pm, the lounge is offering a killer deal: for RMB158, you can grab three glasses of wine or bubbles and score unlimited access to the tapas counter. As is characteristic of W Beijing Chang’an, all this takes place in amusingly quirky surrounds replete with a circular bar, light-up catwalk and golden DJ booth suspended from the ceiling – so you can jive to the beats as you sip, munch and laugh. There are worse ways to spend a Tuesday evening. > W Beijing Chang’an, see Listings for details

Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is the place for mountainous shaved ice desserts and creamy bubble teas. > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. com.cn for details

No 16 Courtyard 后海16号 (Beijing) Houhai No. 16 is a courtyard restaurant in Houhai, specializes in dishes once served for the government in the imperial times, with customizable menus. ¥380/person (without drinks)Open: 11.30am-9pm

> D4, Dajin Hutong. Xicheng District, 西城区后海大金丝胡同4号 010-83226461,13716551797 www. houhai16.com

Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck) Resembling something between a nightclub and a theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes.

> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)

COUNTRY KITCHEN, ROSEWOOD BEIJING An Urban Take on Rural Cuisine Yes, the name may sound rustic, but a backwoods diner this ain’t. Rosewood Beijing’s Country Kitchen is our favorite for home-style Dongbei food in luxe surrounds. Dishes on offer run the gamut from freshly rolled dumplings to sweet-and-sour prawns. And of course, don’t forget the Peking Duck, whose tender meat comes accompanied by soft, thin pancakes. We can’t imagine a better place to take a friend visiting the capital for an elegant taste of Beijing. And with the sinfully good cocktails at MEI just upstairs – we may stay all night. > Daily, 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 3F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang District 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6597 8888) 7 0 | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Expensive...................................¥ Expense Account ....................¥¥ Highly Recommended ..............* Top Ten ....................................**

Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadongdadong.com for more locations

Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) > 98 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

Shanghai Shanghai Min 小南国 Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469)

Sichuan/Hunan Chuan Ban 川办 * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of China, including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce.

South Memory 望湘园 This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with locals.

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)

> Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. southmemory.com for more locations

Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese restaurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, so expect sweet and delicate and sweet flavors with impeccable presentation.

Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 The menu here is old-fashioned and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

> Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666)

Peking Duck Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations

Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into

LISTINGS chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service complete the experience. > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com for other locations.

Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Chinese dining at its best.

> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

Yunnan Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect district for Yunnan food, and this little gem is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town. > Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318)

Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian)

Regional Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites. > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400-5281)

Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway. Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational. > Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800)

Makye Ame (Tibetan) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb.

> Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号 (6506 9616)

ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shaobing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good. Queues of locals are testament. > Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like dapanji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)

WESTERN Fine Dining

An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)

Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.

> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Dumplings Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food. > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommendation the prices have risen and the walls are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)

OPEN DOOR

Aria ¥¥ (European) * A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 for the Wagyu beef and starters around RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

DIN TAI FUNG Soup (Dumpling) Kitchen Everyone knows Din Tai Fung is great. Just look at its accolades. The New York Times knows. The Wall Street Journal knows. And you, That’s Beijing readers, evidently know – Din Tai Fung nabbed the Readers’ Choice award for ‘Best Chain Restaurant’ at our Golden Fork Restaurant Awards last month. But for the one or two of you who don’t know, now you do: Din Tai Fung is great. The whole place is practically a shrine to the art of xiaolongbao. Make sure you try the delicious crab roe soup dumplings. Everything else on the menu complements tiny pouches of soup and meat beautifully – think gently seasoned tofu salads, Shanghainese chicken soup and piping-hot noodles. > Din Tai Fung, see Listings for details

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Piedmont wine it is named after.

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151)

Brasserie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

> Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea. > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727)

Héritage ¥¥ A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with Michelin star restaurant experience and an extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight

OOPS! WINE AND FOOD We Ate it Again One of Wangjing’s hidden gems, Oops! Wine & Food is fun, welcoming and decked out in vintage decor. But its hearty Spanish-inspired cuisine means business (of the good sort). We sampled a few dishes and were impressed by the beautiful presentation and rich flavors of each. The Spanish cayenne pepper (RMB68) filled with morsels of squid is a fiery appetizer, while the avocado prawns (RMB78) with corn chips and spicy guacamole is an imaginative take on the classic prawn cocktail. A particular standout is the beef risotto (RMB68) – the meat is braised at a low temperature resulting in tender mouthfuls. There’s also a stellar wine selection, with two house varieties available by the glass, although we recommend making the most of your night with a bottle or two. Oops! Wine & Food – they did it again. > Daily, 11.30am-12.30am; No. 5, Building 8, Zone 7, Wangjing Dongyuan (Baoli Central Park), Chaoyang 朝阳区望京东园七区8号楼5号底商保利中央公园底商对面为望京绿地中心

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to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu.

>Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区 (5695 8888)

S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics kitchen concept, which includes a mouthwatering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for international standard fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232)

Contemporary Western Alﬁe’s ¥ (British) What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

Caribeño (Latin) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes from all over the Latin continent here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is excellent – as are the Mojitos. > Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

Chi (Organic, Fusion) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced. From the owners of neighboring Saffron. > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 67号 (6445 7076)

Stuﬀ’d (Contemporary Western) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308)

Tafelspitz (Austrian) It is the first Austrian restaurant in Beijing where you can find authentic Austrian cuisine and a fine selection of original imported Austrian wines and beers.

> Brunch weekend 11:30am-2:00pm,Lunch 11:30am1:30pm,Dinner 5:30 - 9:30pm (last order); 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园4楼 (5208 6171, www.tafelspitz.cn)

VIC Not to be confused with the notorious nightclub of the same name, this VIC is the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restaurant. All the major world cuisines are in attendance here – make you pay special attentions to the French-inspired breads and pastries – as is the customary Sunday champagne brunch. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Yi House (Contemporary Western) Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Café/Deli/Sandwich Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. Gets cozy at night.

> Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069)

Café Zarah (Café) * A smart new interior and menu for this longstanding cafe has propelled it from hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, airy and with a terrace for summer, the only downside is it’s always packed. > Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

Café Flatwhite

Miss K Cafe (Xing Fu Cafe) Whether it’s a rainy morning or a sunny afternoon, relax with your favorite novel and a cup of freshly brewed coffee. Experience a quiet moment of serenity amid the hustle and bustle of Beijing. >Daily, 8am-8.30pm; 1/F, Tower A, East Gate Plaza, Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东环广场A座一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096)

Missa (European) Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet, you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant.

> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

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Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Another import from Shanggers, this is boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, with somewhat questionable price tags.

> Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 8号楼833 (6417 1318)

Ricci Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit (duh), this creative café has a funky, kookymeets-organic vibe and serves up some of the best casual western food in town, and a great brunch at the Wudaokou location (Chaoyang branch closed weekends).

> Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; 1 Sanlitun Soho Store: B1-239, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路8号院, 三里屯SOHO, 2号楼B1-239 (5785 3762 / 15910944325); 2) 751 D-Park Store: No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区751动力广场 (6432 2798 / 13522120390);3) 798 Dashanzi Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区酒仙桥路4 号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / 13051771436); 4 China Central Mall Store (Hua Mao): China Central Mall, Room L315, 81 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区建国路81号L315 8588 7978 / 15652922791);5) Jianguomenwai DRC Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水街1号建国门外外交公寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189) www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafeflatwhite@hotmail.com, WeChat username: Cafe-Flatwhite

MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary Western) * Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)

> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)

Tim’s Texas BBQ * Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing ya’ll homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn homestyle briskets, ribs and steaks – slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ – this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and Margherita’s recommended. > Daily 9am-midnight; Silk#2 Building, 14 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水 2号院 (6591 9161)

The Woods *

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide ranging menu has something for everyone, especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types. > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

TRIBE * Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic, and there are more superfoods in one single dish than we even knew existed. Come hungry, leave basking in the warm, glow that comes from knowing that you are eating well. Kombucha is the icing on the (organic, locally-sourced) cake. > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 8587 1899

American/BBQ/Grill Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads and brunch options, all served alongside some of the best coffee in Beijing.

Union Bar and Grill The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff. The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

> 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 号院清华科技园D座1楼 8215 8826 )

> Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里南区三层 (6416-5829) > Additional locations in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

> Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

> Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) > Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

Wagas (Contemporary Western) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town. The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh shells from Canada, South Africa, France, USA and more – and they are well worth the price. The fries are the best we’ve had in Beijing, beer and wine selection also excellent.

Grill 79 (Steak) With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent.

The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm. First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com)

Home Plate BBQ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

NOLA N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)

New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)

Burgers Blue Frog This Shanghai hamburger franchise has been keeping Americans in China obese since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed.

> Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路太古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

Burger Bar Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and truffles. Burger King this ain’t. > Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight, B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)

Chef Too ¥ With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town. > Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

Steak 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29 North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号2层 (6584 6270))

Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) > Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contemporary Western) ¥¥ * The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order.

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

LISTINGS O’Steak A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic French bistro – not a Guinness in sight.

> Daily midday-midnight, Xingfu: No.55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, opposite of April courmet, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7杰作大厦底商绿叶子超市斜对面 8448 8250 > Central Park: No.o103 building 20, Central Park, No.6 Chaowai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际20号楼103 6533 6599 > shunyi: No.11-102 Shine Hills, No.9 Antai Avenue, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪安泰大街9号祥云小镇南门 11号楼102 8048 5080

Flamme (Contemporary Western) Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. Flamme (pronounced ‘Flame,’ apparently) remains top value, however, especially on 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail menu.

> Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm FriSat. S4-33, Third Floor, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区3层S4-33室 (6417 8608) > 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场269号 (8420 0270)

Mexican/Tex Mex Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 (6416 5212)

Taco Bar Rising from the ashes of its deceased hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, popular and able to produce some of the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only RMB45 for three and great cocktails to complement.

> Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研究院内10号1层 (6501 6026)

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (KoreanMexican fusion) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce. Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Cali’ cocktails, too. > Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays) 14 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)

Italian

logna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains. > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Opera Bombana ¥ Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and certainly the only to have opened a restaurant in Beijing. > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)

Pizza Tube Station Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be the biggest in town. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

La Pizza Among the upper echelons of Beijing pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branches in Solana and pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3

> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) > Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Choayang 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号1层, SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 SH1112号(5900 3112) > La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990)

Spanish Agua ¥ * Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 (5208 6188)

Aria ¥¥ * This gold standard of opulence has crafted a new Spanish menu. A fantastic place for paella brunch. In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit.

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Bene ¥ * Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection.

> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 6层 (5208 6061)

> Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508)

> Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Cepe ¥ In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666)

Isola Bar & Grill Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza. > Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www. gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com; 6416 3499)

Mercante ¥ * Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo-

Migas ¥ * The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of summer’s rooftop destinations.

Niajo ¥ * With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is prime Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain (minus the constant sunshine).

African/Middle Eastern 1001 Nights There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The whole Arabic dining package is on offer here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.

> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi branch worth it. > Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

Biteapitta * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2 层 (6467 2961)

Rumi (Middle Eastern) Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.

> Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)

Asian Indian Raj Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authentic Indian, espcially the rather fine naan. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675))

Bhoomi Store Indian Food Shop Bhoomi stores One stop destination where a wide range of Indian & Pakistani food products are served. 266 Yaohong Lu，by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang district，(021-2428 3400)

> Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm 闵行区姚虹路266号, 近红松东路

Ganges Conveniently located above popular Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer. > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details.

Indian Kitchen

> CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376) > Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 10/11号 (8415 0863) www.nyonyakitchen.com

Malacca Legend Malaysian food with a view, this spacious and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake, making a great spot for their beef rendang or green curry prawns. > Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Luodong Road, Luogezhuang Village, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗各东路6号 (8049 8902, www.malaccalegend.com)

Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it. > Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

Flor de Loto Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Korea-town.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Li Sanlitun then.

> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

Purple Haze (Thai) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town. Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45). > Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

Susu (Vietnamese) The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish. > Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (truly – when they say 1308 they mean it) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site).

> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors.

Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) As much a California roll joint as true Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists.

German

Paulaner Brauhaus The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

> Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)

Japanese

> Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 3层 (5208 6052)

> Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 层(6503 5555)

4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with frequent live indie performances.

The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation and very available on JinShiSong online delivery. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255

South-East Asian

Inagiku * This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near to perfection as you’re likely to find. Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to be missed.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 (8517 2838)

Happy Sake (Japanese) When it comes to sake, owner Taka Yamamoto is an expert, responsible for around 80 percent of all high-quality sake imported to China. His restau-

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rant is dedicated to food meant to be enjoyed with sake. Stylish and relaxed, high-quality and affordable - Happi Sake hits all the right notes.

> Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, Sun 6pm-midnight; Jia 2, Tuanjiehu Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北路甲 2号(6582 8216)

Sake Manzo * The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town.

> Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608)

Sui Ka Is this what after-work hangouts are like in Japan? We’re not sure, but we hope so: This charming izakaya nails it when it comes to sake selection and fried delights to munch alongside it. Daily 5pm-1am, Ichibangai First Avenue Food Court, Zaoying Nanli, Maizidian, East 3rd Ring Road > Chaoyang朝阳区东三环农展馆北路宾都苑东侧一层底商一番街内 (137 1692 7543)

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6层 (6581 0072)

Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu RMB1,000), but what would you expect from some of the best sushi in town? Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above. > Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) > Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-3号2层 (8420 0998)

Korean Ai Jiang Shan This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain.

TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability. Arrow Factory The newest craft beer taproom on the block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway brimming with good Anglo-ScWEEandinavian vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales. A winning combination > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号（6407 6308）

8-Bit Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner? Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable RMB25 a glass.

> Daily, 1pm-2am, 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 北锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538))

BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) The brainchild of local spirits professional Douglas Williams, this bar provides the discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and straight-razor shaves.

> 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Bar), Chaoyang District 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com)

The Brick A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.

> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Capital Spirits A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely hutong setting, friendly owners and great bottle collection.

> Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区大菊胡同3号 (010 6409 3319; www.capitalspirits. com)

> Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037) see online.thatsmags.com for other locations

China Bar ¥¥ Top views from the 65th floor and flash drinks are the attractions on offer at this hip hotel bar.

Saveurs de Coree This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true.

CICADA Ultralounge ¥ The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost.

> Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Vegetarian Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and they offer cooking classes as well. > Daily 10am-10pm 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2 层0260 (5900 1288) Additional location in Wudaokou (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city. > Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同19号. (6446 2073)

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> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)

> Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9898)

Cu Ju Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destination and sports fan’s manna all rolled into one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering North African food with an international cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums and sports broadcasts from basketball to cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best all-around bar-restaurants. > 5-11pm, Sun-Tue, Thu; 5pm-late, Fri-Sat; closed Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), Dongcheng District 东城区细管胡同28号 6407 9782, www.cujubeijing.com

Daily Routine 日常生活 This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough. Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and the drinks at this establishment change seasonally according to ingredient availability. Light cafe fare is available during the day. > 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同34号 8400 1159

El Nido * The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally.

> Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园D405室 (5208 6076)

First Floor First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company. At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps. // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)

Fubar Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name. Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding.

> 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

Glen ¥ Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. See for yourself. > 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)

Glen Classic ¥ Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号 (6551 6788)

Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB2540) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good. Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同6号 (5717 1399) >Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 ( 6416-6887, www. greatleapbrewing.com)

Heaven Supermarket A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. > Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415 6513)

Hidden Lounge * Although frustrating to find, Hidden Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区双花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Ichikura ¥ One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails. Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge. > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ *

Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails.

> Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路 4号院 ( 6503 2757)

Jing-A Taproom ** In just a few years, these guys developed from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding publicans with their own range of souvenir T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-andmortar taproom, which is large, warm and sociable, and has up to 16 different beers on tap. > Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院

Maggie’s ¥ A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture. > Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南门 (8562 8142)

Mai Bar * Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town.

> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)

Mao Mao Chong ** The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochongbeijing.com)

Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).

> Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Parlor Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.

> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)

Revolution * Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍 * A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086) > Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

The Irish Volunteer Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路 311号 (6438 5581)

The Tree A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)

Trouble Bar Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft beers. Stocks a large draft selection and

LISTINGS an even larger selection of bottles. Also does a nice line in creative cocktails, if brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to accommodate any event, meetings, and gatherings.

> 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, troublebar@gmail.com, www.trouble.bar)

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** This popular microbrewery has its own pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs. Quality ales that change depending on the season, heated floors and a great little kitchen round out the deal. > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

10 Best Livehouses Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Great little livehouse near Meishuguan with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock. Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly. > Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969)

Hot Cat Club 热力猫 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space. > Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同 46号(6400 7868).

Jianghu 江湖酒吧 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the gethome-for-the-babysitter crowd. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@gmail.com)

MAO Livehouse 光芒 * From the denim-jacketed doorman to the well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hitting this side of the Drum Tower.

> 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山 Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines. > Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

Temple 坛 * Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼 202 (131 6107 0713)

School Bar 学校酒吧 * Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The

upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711）

Sports Bars

the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.

> Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

The Local * Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another.

Centro ¥ Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini.

Paddy O’Shea’s * An entire Irish-themed pub, which could easily been trasnsported, untouched, from a back alley in Limerick and gently deposited in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports.

Xian ¥ This enlongated bar space makes a nice spot for refreshment after a day spent shopping at neighboring Indigo.

> Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6591 9525)

> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290) > Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

V Sports Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars.

> Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店 1层 (6561 8833)

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, 1/F, EAST Beijing, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥22 号北京东隅酒店一层 (8414 9810, www.xian-bar.com)

BEAUTY & FITNESS Black Golden Tanning Studio 古铜日晒中心

> Daily 5:30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)

The Bar at Migas * A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man.

Dada * It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene.

> Contact: jindafit@outlook.com; T: 188-0132-1096; facebook.com/jindafit; Instragram: @jindafit

Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up a natural tan. When it finally reaches the warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give you that golden glow with its quick, safe and effective technology. With a membership card, enjoy a 50-minute session for RMB400 and come away with natural, healthy-looking color.

> Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区工体北路三里屯Soho3 号楼2层217 (5785 3711, jusonghao@hotmail.com); > Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI International Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广场3层T—5 (84722855)

Daisy’s Beauty Salon

Atmosphere ¥¥ Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of

> Building C-D, Dawang Building, 12 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区西大望路12号大望写字楼C-D座 (400 0989 809, 138 1088 7442, www.jingmeihui.cn)

Alona Pilates Studio Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels. > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District

Luxura Tanning Center This tanning salon has some of the city’s best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan possible, get custom-made tanning tips from the well-trained staff.

Vics Separated at birth from its identical twin brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti sweatbox meat-market chic at its very finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics to become one of the most infamous clubs in the capital.

Hotel Bars

JM Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Clinic A top cosmetic & plastic surgery clinic with over 18 years of experience in Beijing. They provide a full range of surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures. Their standard for service is focused on maintaining the best technologies in the field of cosmetic surgery and achieving beautiful results safely.

朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com)

> Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@ sohu.com

> Daily 8:30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333)

Brad Clinic Welcome to Brad Clinic, Beijing’s unique skincare and anti-aging center. Our professional and personalized treatments rejuvenate the skin safely, naturally and most effectively while restoring your skin’s natural beauty and health. We offer: skin rejuvenation and re-firming, hair removal, acne and sun spots treatment, and wrinkle reduction.

Jindaﬁt Created by D’Jack Tchinda, Jindafit is a fullbody workout that turns African dance and music into seamless sequences that burns fat, tones muscles and relax your mind. Jindafit can be joined by everyone; there is not limitation to your level of fitness. Thanks to the combination of inspiring music, easy-to-follow choreography and great results, Jindafit is a promise to rock the fitness world.

> Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

MIX A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix is one of those places in Beijing you have to experience before you leave. Not much is forbidden in this underground hip-hop disco palace and if you don’t leave with hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong.

> For more information, visit www.beijinghikers.com

> Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Chocolate It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women. Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows.

> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场西门向北100米 (139 119 77989)

Beijing Hikers Want to experience the wild, unrestored Great Wall, away from the tourist masses? Or do you just want to get out of the city for some exercise? Beijing Hikers offers hikes in the countryside of Beijing every week all year round. Hikes for all fitness levels! Regular hikes are priced from RMB380, with discounts for members. Cost includes hiking guide, transportation, tickets, food and water. We’ve also got adventures all over China.

Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls.

> Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)

Lantern * Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

> Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building B,Sunshine100 International Apartment, Guanghua Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际公寓B座301室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeautysalon.com)

>Tue-Sat 9am-6pm, Room 2103, Tower E1, The Towers, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang’An Ave, Dong Cheng 东城区东长安街1号东方广场东方经贸城E1办公楼2103室 (8518 2103/ 5688, contact@BradClinic.com

Nightclubs

> Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B 栋101室 (183 1108 0818)

array of other treatments including IPL Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 90-minute treatment that uses a laser to stimulate collagen production and soften lines. The salon’s slimming treatment is also proving popular and effective.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.luxura.net)

Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has catered to thousands of Beijing expats and locals and is renowned for its premium waxing services and imported wax that smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t your thing, the salon also specializes in an

Lily Nails A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and waxing services too.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东城区东直门外大街48号

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东方银座2楼(东直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层 2049号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308)

ZELL BeauCare Clinic 泽尔丽格医疗美容 Overseen by Fellow of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS), ZELL cosmetic clinic provides state-of-art comprehensive minimal invasive procedures, including, Botox, dermal filler, fractionated laser skin resurfacing, Ulthera skin tightening and lifting, professional skin care treatment (acne, pigmentation, aging), and plastic surgery (including double eyelid, rhynoplasty, among others). > Unit 2002, 1/F, Vantone Center, 6A Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街甲6号万通中心AB座一层2002 (010-59073390,18612483390, www.zellbeauty.com)

Sport Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls. > Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路 1号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www. broadwell.cn1)

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. >12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng District 东城区景山东街12号 (6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524, re

California Fitness Beijing Club California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia. Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment. >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 4008-100-988 www,californiafitness.com

Heyrobics “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule. > www.heyrobics.com, info@heyrobics.com

Yihe 42° Hot Yoga

coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, RMB115-468 men.

> 209 2and floor, zoon3 China World Trade Centre Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3 二楼 209. (8535 1002, 131 4667 9913). 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. 三里屯北街南43号楼 (135 0137 2971)

Catherine de France Awarded best expat salon in 2014, with a trained team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, including manicures, pedicures & waxing. Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI.

> EAST AVENUE BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层 Salon: 0086 10 84425120, Mobile: 0086 13521473492 E-mail: catherine@catherinedefrance.com Wechat: CDFSalon; Web: www.catherinedefrance. com

SPA & MASSAGE Angel Hands Massage Center Essential Oil SPA (original price: RMB288/ hr), promotional price RMB230/hr now. Let us release your stress and make you smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off. Our masseuses will know how to pamper you and attend to your every need.

> Room 301, Building 5, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO, 5号楼301 (138 1182 1008)

Dragonﬂy Therapeutic Retreat Created as a contemporary urban retreat, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

> Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)

Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain of contemporary spas. Calming flower aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui fountains create a soothing atmosphere in each of their locations, while a long list of treatments from around the world cater to all pampering needs.

> Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn)

DENTAL Arrail Dental Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.

3 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay! Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to begin your journey into Yoga, so they are available to answer any questions you may have. It’s a great workout for the body and calming for the mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8405 9996, 8599 7395)

> Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www. yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www. yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA serve@cyclechina.com or cyclechina@ hotmail.com)

HAIR SALONS Laurent Falcon The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon. Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights,

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> 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all appointments.

> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)

Joinway Dental As one of Beijing’s most reputable and trusted dental practices, Joinway Dental provides the perfect combination of cutting edge technology and comfortable treatment, while maintaining the strictest sanitary and sterilization processes. The clinic

uses imported materials of the highest quality and its professional, US-trained staff offers a personalized and private service.

> Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, joinway@dentalcn.com, www.dentalcn.com)

SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 The full spectrum of dentistry. Services include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards accepted.

> www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. CBD/ Guomao>2/F,NB210, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外大街1号国贸商城地下2 层 Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area>F-0186B Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 . Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun 10am-19pm. Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99 Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road.北京顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号.Tel: 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu亮马桥40号 21世纪饭店2层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**MonFri 9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda Lu远大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里8号中海广场北楼3层05号.Tel: 5977-2488

HEALTH SERVICES Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. amcare.com.cn)

American-Sino OB/GYN/Pediatrics Services 北京美华妇儿医院 > 18 anyuan road,chaoyang district,Beijing 北京市朝阳区安苑路18号 Tel (010)8443-9666, http:// bj.americanobgyn.com

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken. > 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

Beijing New Century Harmony Pediatric Clinic

> Shunyi, K-01, Building No.19, Harmony Business Centre, Liyuan Street, Tianzhu Town 天竺镇丽苑街荣和商业中心19号楼K-01 (6456-2599; harmonypeds@ ncich.com.cn, www.ncich.com.cn)

Beijing Passion International Medical Center This full-service international clinic provides 24-hr general medical care and a patient-centered attitude. Beijing Passion International Medical Center is equipped with the latest in medical technology and is designed to support the comfort, safety and privacy of patients.

> 24hours, B1/F, Borui Building, 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路26号博瑞大厦B1层 6517 7667, www.passion-medical.com

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院

> Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.> 2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. Tel: (10) 5927 7000 / 5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所, Mon-Sat, 9:30am6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中心AB座2层3017室. Tel: (10) 5907 1266. Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店. Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9:30am4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场806号,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818号. Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang

East Road朝阳区东方东路19号1号楼会所27号外交人员公寓B区官舍16号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7005 www.ufh. com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn

Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院

> Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu北苑路小关北里甲2号. Tel: 6499-0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net

Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所

Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie朝阳门北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层; 6553-9752, 6553-2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www. hkclinic.com

International SOS Since 1989, International SOS has been run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security and travel advice, as well as emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate house calls, ambulance and evacuation services, and standard health treatments. Languages spoken include English, German, French, Mandarin, Spanish, Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)

Parkway Health Clinic

> Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm; CBD, 1-2/F, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street 朝阳门外大街甲六号万通中心 AB座一二层; (4000-662-882(24hrs); enquiry@ parkwayhealth.cn; www.parkwayhealth.cn > No. 101-201,Beijing link, block2, No.6 Yuan, Jing Shun Dong Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区京顺东街6号院2号楼北京Link 101-201室

Vista Medical Center 维世达诊所

> 24hours. Wi-Fi internet. 3/F Kerry Center. 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心商场3层 Tel: 85296618. Email: vista@vista-china.net. Website: www. vista-china.net

OASIS International Hospital OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

EDUCATION MBA & EMBA Schools BBA at BFSU-SolBridge 北京外国语大学国际商学院

> 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537)

LEMBA The Leadership EMBA from the University of Maryland Robert H. Smith School of Business is a unique learning experience in Beijing. The program offers world class executive and leadership education from some of the best professors the world has to offer. Every month one of the professors from the University of Maryland comes to Beijing to instruct the class for 4 consecutive days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime. Email: beijing@rhsmith.umd.edu Tel: 8526 2528/29 Rutgers International Executive MBA

> 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 (5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)

Mandarin Schools Beijing Mandarin Language School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language. More than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmandarinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)

Beijing Juncheng Language School 北京君诚语言学校 > 1) Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) 2) Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

LISTINGS Culture Yard Voted Best Mandarin School in Beijing for 2015 by That’s Beijing readers! Ready to take your Chinese to the next level? We offer personalized Mandarin classes for serious language learners of all levels. Why choose us? •Learn in a small group of up to 6 students •Get your Chinese level evaluated and your study goals set on our detailed level test •Reach an HSK4 level in less than one year on our flagship Intensive Program! •Learn from professional teachers with master degrees in teaching Chinese to foreigners •Study in a centrally located, cozy and sunny hutong courtyard •Practice on the go with Culture Yard customized online tools •Discover Chinese culture on our Chinese Through Cinema movie nights and other cultural activities •Study the most common Chinese characters in our Characters Building course Need more? •Classes are focused on speaking and understanding real Chinese that native speakers use •Serious approach to Chinese learning with regular homework assignments and tests •We offer Chinese Media classes for advanced learners •The school was opened by a western educator passionate about Chinese learning Don’t take our word for it? See what our students say about us on www.cultureyard. net/reviews Contact us: contact@cultureyard.net/ 01084044166/Wechat: CultureYard

The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 > (The Bridge School Head office)Room 503, 5/F, Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室 (15321793321 Grettchin)

The Frontiers School

aside, MSB boasts spacious classrooms, a high teacher-student ratio and impressive staff longevity. Tuition: RMB98,000 - RMB177,000/year.

> Bldg 8, 2A, Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区香江北路甲2号院8号楼 6432 8228 ext. 800, http:>www.msb.edu.cn, admissions@msb.edu.cn

Beijing World Youth Academy 北京世青国际学校 Beijing World Youth Academy (BWYA) is an international school for students of all nationalities ages 6 to 18, offering programs on its campuses conveniently located in Wangjing and Lido. An IB World School since 2001, BWYA values holistic education and seeks to give students ample opportunity to develop as globally-aware critical thinkers. A wide varity of co-curricular activities are offered to further enrich student life. Graduates of BWYA have been accepted at prestigious universities around the world. Age range: 6-18. Tuition: RMB 100,000- 140,000/year.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm. 18 Huajiadi Beili, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Inside 94 Middle school 北京市朝阳区望京花家地北里18号(6461 7787 ext.32, 8454 3478/0649, admissions@ibwya.net, www.ibwya.net)

The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 The British School of Beijing, established in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993246,057. Contact our Admissions team to arrange a school tour.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Shunyi District 顺义区安华街9号南侧(8047 3558, www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.org.cn)

La Maison Montessori de Pekin 北京中法双语蒙氏儿童之家 The first bilingual French-Chinese Montessori kindergarten in Beijing, it welcomes children between ages 2 to 6 years old. The kindergarten is located in a beautiful courtyard in the hutongs. Schedule: Monday to Friday: 8:30am to 3:30pm. After class activities also offered. > 50 Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十四条50号 Tel: 131 2025 0341/ 8401 3974; e-mail: lamaisonmontessoripk@gmail.com www.lamaisonmontessoridepk.com

Beijing Mandarin School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language, more than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. Also recognized and recommended by BBC News as one of the most professional Chinese language school.

Join the friendly and professional team at Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin for 11 years. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 6413 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. com.cn)

International Schools Beijing BISS International School 北京BISS国际学校 > Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151 www.biss. com.cn)

Beijing City International School 北京乐成国际学校 Located in Beijing’s Central Business District, Beijing City International School (BCIS) lives by its motto: “Empowering and Inspiring through Challenge and Compassion.” This non-profit, independent co-educational day school offers an international curriculum under the International Baccalaureate (IB) World School system and is authorized to teach all three IB programs (Primary Years, Middle Years, and Diploma Programme).

> 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171 www.bcis.cn)

The International Montessori School of Beijing 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Founded in 1990, MSB is Beijing’s first fully registered international Montessori school. The school also boasts an unsurpassed dual Mandarin/English program geared towards helping students achieve fluency in either language from an early age. Curriculum

> E-tower School(Guomao Area): Room 904-905, 9/F E-tower Building E数码世界9层904-905(6508 1026/1126) Guangming Hotel School (Embassy Area): Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel(near U.S Embassy) 光明饭店7层0709室美国大使馆附近(84418391) Email: info@beijingmandarinschool.com/ www. beijingmandarinschool.com/ Skype ID: beijingmandarinschool1998

Canadian International School of Beijing 北京加拿大国际学校 Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class facility offers an internationally recognized Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen of the world. > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路38号 (6465 7788 www.cisb.com.cn)

Harrow International School Beijing 北京哈罗英国学校 www.harrowbeijing.cn Harrow International School Beijing prides itself on its high academic standards, a close-knit school community, a rich extracurricular activity program and the quality of its pastoral care provision. Leadership skills are promoted school-wide, with a range of enrichment activities to help students develop teamwork and creative thinking skills, as well as independence and responsibility. Students graduating from Harrow Beijing have won places at a range of universities across the world including Princeton, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge. > Address: 287, Hegezhuang, Cuigezhuang County, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村 287 号 Tel: +8610 6444 8900 Ext. 6900 Fax: +8610 6445 3870

Email: enquiries@harrowbeijing.cn

International School of Beijing 北京顺义国际学校

> www.isb.bj.edu.cn 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)

SIBS Springboard International Blingual School 君城国际双语学院 Springboard International Bilingual School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their students to realize their full potential. They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football. > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn; 8049 2450)

Western Academy of Beijing 京西国际学校 The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is a creative and innovative IB World School built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to others, can-do spirit and commitment to excellence. WAB graduates are accepted into world-class colleges and universities across the globe. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang District 朝阳区来广营东路10号(5986 5588)

Yew Chung International School 耀中国际学校 Located in downtown Honglingjin Park since 1995, Yew Chung International School of Beijing (YCIS Beijing) offers a truly international curriculum for children of foreign nationals in China. The school follows the National Curriculum for England but also integrates an extensive Chinese language and culture program, allowing foreign nationals to get the best out of their time in China. YCIS Beijing is one of only five schools in China accredited by three separate accreditation organizations and has a 100 percent pass rate within the IGCSE and IB programs. In addition, YCIS Beijing is the only international school in China to receive the Cambridge Award for Excellence in Education from the University of Cambridge International Examinations. > Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 www.ycis-bj.com)

Kindergartens Beanstalk International Bilingual School 青苗国际双语学校 > 1) Kindergarten > 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255) 2) Primary School > Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路 6号阳光上东二区 (5130 7951) 3) Middle & High School > 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38 号 (8456 6019)

House of Knowledge International Kinde garten (HOK) House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergarten program for children aged 10 months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as competent learners and the school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade 1 in September 2014. > 1) Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. hokschools.com) 2) Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www. hokschools.com)

EtonKids International Kindergarten 伊顿国际幼儿园 1) Lido – 6436 7368 www.etonkids.com > Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 2) 6506 4805 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 3) 8437 1006 Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角 4) 8480 5538 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 5) 6533 6995 Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 6) 6539 8967 Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓 7) 6749 5008 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng District 东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 8) 8478 0578 Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang District 朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 9) 8047 2983 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座 10) 5870 6779 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内

Ivy Schools 艾毅幼儿园

> www.ivyschools.com 1) East Lake Campus (8451 1380/1) C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main Street, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室; 2) Ivy Bilingual School 艾毅双语幼儿园 Ocean Express Campus: (8446 7286/7) Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 3) Orchid Garden Campus: (8439 7080) Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦万代 4) Wangjing Campus: (5738 9166/1332 110 6167) Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 7) Rm106, warehouse4, 653 Waima Lu, by Wangjia Matou Lu (3376 8308) 外马路653号4库106室, 近王家码头路

3e International 北京3e国际学校 > 6437 3344

www.3eik.com, 9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)

Bookstores Page One The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two locations in Beijing, its network allows for fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive collection of titles. > Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com)

Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)

The Bookworm * This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event space always has a cultured evening on its shelves for both adults and kids. > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)

GALLERY Galleria Continua * In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua is the international gallery. Their warehouse space is a forum for high-caliber artists from nearly every continent, including several of China’s artistic nobility. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2 号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.com)

Long March Space Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by exacting standards from both the 20-odd Chinese artists he represents and the overall design of his topical and uncompromising exhibitions. International clout was inevitable. > Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com)

Pace Beijing With locations in New York, London and Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 is idealized for. Go there! > Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com)

Space Station Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend to have a good curatorial understanding of space and high-quality 2D work.

> Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区中一街 (5978 9671)

Ullens Center for Contemporary Art Filling the largest factory space in 798 with Chinese and international art, the UCCA has the curatorial power and financial backing to put together some of Beijing’s most impressive exhibitions. > RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca. org.cn)

Tang Contemporary Art Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installation and curatorial theory. With locations in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang focuses on promoting artistic exchange throughout East Asia.

> Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www. atngcontemporary.com)

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CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION Ascott Raffles City Beijing Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City. Other nearby leisure attractions include Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district. > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 Ascott Raffles City Chengdu > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China Post code: 610041 Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888 Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 GDS Code: AZ Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com Somerset ZhongGuanCun Beijing Somerset ZhongGuanCun is a luxury residence in Beijing that lets you enjoy the cultural depth and elegance of the city while living in the fast developing ZhongGuanCun area, only 15 minutes away from the 2008 Beijing Olympic Village. >No.15 Haidian Zhong Street, Haidian District Tel: 5873 0088 Lusongyuan Hotel A traditional compound of quadrangle composing of 5 courtyards which lies in the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous for its imperial living taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of nearly 170 years. The original owner of this large private house was the Grand General SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he carried out top official duties, such as defense minister. > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Address: No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com Lee Garden Service Apartments A newly renovated high-end premier living residence in a central location next to the shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Wangfujing, suites range from studios to 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) and are tastefully furnished with specially selected materials. > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, general.manager@lgapartment.com, www. lgapartment.com) FraserResidence CBD East Beijing Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free! One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. com > Website: http:>beijing-east frasershospitality.com Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 FraserSuite CBD Beijing The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357

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Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 5908 6000 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas. Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and C will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances M etc.. Unique sky garden with golf practice field Y and barbecue area is another symbol of GTC Residence. CM > E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com website: www.gtcresidence.com MY Tel:56756666 Lanson Place CY Lanson Place Central Park Serviced Residences, located in the Central Business CMY District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom K configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden. The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped. > Website: www.lansonplace.com Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 Marriott Executive Apartments Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing area where the prestigious business, commercial, entertainment, and shopping center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng District Tel: 6564 9999 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District. Tel: 8588 2888 Oakwood Residence Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100027, China reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES The Westin Executive Residences at The Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and

close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions. > Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial Tel: 6606 8866

BUSINESS CENTER Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室

11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Pacific Century Place 北京盈科中心 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 China Central Place 北京华贸中心 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国路79号华贸中心2号楼9层 Parkview Green 北京侨福芳草地中心 15/F, Office Building A Parkview, Green, No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东大桥路8号芳草地办公楼A座 15层 China Life Tower 北京中国人寿大厦中心 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层

•Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people •Prices from RMB180 per month •Find more on Regus.cn •Tel: 400 120 1207 >> BEIJING (20 LOCATIONS) << Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 北京利星行广场 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 北京新东安广场 7/F, Office Tower 2, Sun Dong An Plaza, No.138 Wangfujing, Avenue, Dongcheng District 北京市东城区王府井大街138号新东安广场写字楼2座7层 Zhongyu Mansion [New] 北京中宇大厦 6/F, Zhongyu Mansion, No.6 North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦6层 Diplomatic [New] 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区亮马桥外交办公大楼E座17层 Kerry Centre - South Tower [New] 北京嘉里中心-南楼 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 Landgent Building [Coming Soon] 北京乐成中心 5/F, Block A, Landgent Center, No.20 East Middle 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang District C 北京市朝阳区东三环中路20号乐成中心A座5 层 M

China Life – West 北京中国人寿大厦-西 West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦5层西区 IFC 北京财源国际中心 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲8号财源国际中心东座10层 Prosper Center 北京世纪财富中心 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang Hua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6 层 Financial St. Excel Centre 北京金融街卓著中心 12/F, Financial Street Excel, Centre, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District 北京市西城区武定侯街6号卓著国际金融中心 12层 NCI Centre 北京新华保险大厦中心 15/F, NCI Tower, No.12A Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲12号新华保险大厦15层 Taikang Financial Tower 北京泰康金融大厦 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦 23层 Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 北京中关村欧美汇大厦 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District 北京市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大厦7层

China World Tower 3 Y 北京国贸三期 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District CM 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 MY 15层 Lufthansa Centre CY 北京燕莎中心 C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao CMY Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 K

Kerry Centre 北京嘉里中心

CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center

LISTINGS We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and Pacific region, and our headquarters is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services. Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, Taiyanggong, Beijing Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591 Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com Website: www.csochina.cn Tel: 86 10 64697000 Servcorp Smart businesses understand that flexibility is the future of the workplace. They choose the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow their businesses, run critical projects and give their people flexibility. Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) Need flexible and affordable ready workspace to enhance your business or register a representative office for your temporary projects in Beijing? We have the perfect solution. Located within a Grade-A building in the popular Lufthansa Business Area, our work-spaces provide you, or your company, with the ideal business identity, and most importantly, come with the most competitive rates to minimize your cost and risks. Please contact: > Gateway Plaza, Tower A, Suite 16D , NE 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路霞光里18号佳程广场A座16D T:01084400606 M:15910782518 Cynthia LU

CAR RENTAL SERVICE Beijing First Choice Car Rental Service Co., Ltd We offer short and long term vehicle leasing services for both business and sightseeing. Our commpany could provide the latest elite, high-end vehicles such as Mercedes Benz S300, BMW S5 and more! Contact our friendly representatives for more information. Tel: 138 1015 6525/6434 0778 www.fccars.cn fccars@live.cn Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd Beijing Top-A Vehicle Service provides: *English -speaking driver *Long-short term leasing *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan, Van and Bus We, ES-PATS Life Group, also serves with Mandarin, housemaid, Visa, driver, driving license, vehicle registration service. Tel: 6438 1634, 1350 123 7292, service@ expatslife.com www.expatslife.com Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd *Long/Short term leasing *Daily car service *Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car service *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat, Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito, Hyundai) and Buses *Native drivers with good English *More information please contact Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256 FAx:6504 7256 www.sxsdcar.com Email:car-rental@live.com

CABLE SERVICES Super IPTV

BEAUTY SERVICES Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun Branch Grand Opening Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s, to bring a continuous tanning effect 25% above standard machines with unique aquacool and aroma functions, we provide customers with the safest and most comfortable tanning space. > Open time:11:00-21:00 Sanlitun SOHO Branch Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun SOHO,Chaoyang District Tel: 57853711 Wangjing Branch Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Website: www.bjtanning.com Tel: 84722855 LA BELLEZA La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in Spanish. Professional hair-designers from Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here. LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, and finest products. New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life! Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china. Website: www.labelleza.com.cn Tel: 010 8522 1626 MegaSun Tanning Salon As the only flagship store for this popular German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning will provide for each client the finest sun tanning experience. Our center has prepared the newest functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy chamber systems, combined with easyCare optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our professional UV and tanning services. > 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO North Tower, Rm. 2302 Chaoyang District, Beijing Website: www.imegasun.com e-mail: 1019771453@qq.com Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂 Tel: 5900-2236/2238

Beijing: Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC. 北京市朝阳区光华路12号数码01大厦2302 室 Shanghai: Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC. 上海市静安区延安中路841号东方海外大厦 904室 Guangzhou: Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3 Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC. 广州市中山二路3号(东山口)粤运大厦11楼 D-E室 Hong Kong: 7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong. 香港德辅道中161-167号香港贸易中心7楼 Beijing Office-TMF Group In order to enable clients benefit from the increasing globalization of the worlds economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative outsourcing services in 67 counties across the globe. With a genuine global network and qualified staff, TMF group provides an array of accounting, corporate secretarial and HR administrative outsourcing services. > Colin.Zhang@TMF-group.com Website: www.tmf-group.com CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7 Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang District Tel: 65330533-860

FURNITURE Crossover Crossover Center Flagship Store, is mainly marketing international super home furnishing brand products. Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau, Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini, Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over 20 international super home furnishing brands. Our products are covered with all of fields in daily-life home furnishing, including furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and office supplies etc. Website: www.crossovercenter.com NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C. Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123

HOUSEKEEPING Super IPTV offers 150+ English TV Channels in HD quality, These TV channels are delivered into your televsion throuth a set top box via a broadband connection, Much like cable services back home, pick up the remote control and start watching, it's one of the best ways to get your favorite channels including HBO,CNN,BBC,ITV,FOX,AXN,E,Star World,Sky Sports,SETANTA,ESPN,EPL,Discovery,Nat Geo... Website: www.beijingiptv.com Shopping: www.shop.superiptv.com Add Wechat ID: 'superiptv' live chat now! Mobile: 133 716 00100 or 139 1811 9990.

CONSULTING SERVICE Harris Corporate Services Ltd Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong Kong Established since 1972 WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up Accounting & Tax Compliance Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening Serving all your business needs for investing in China. Call us for a free consultation. Tel: (86)10-6591 8087 Mobile: 186-019-43718 Email: info.bj@harrissec.com.cn

JNY Home Service JNY Home Service was established in 2007, supplying foreign families with English speaking/non-English Speaking nannies(maids), either daily or live-in. As a part of our service,we make sure all references and ID cards are thoroughly checked to guarantee the safety and health of your family. Email : jieniyou@hotmail.com Mobile: 13426362833(24h) Beijing EX-PATS Service Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency and 24- hour English service. Medical and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese driving license, vehicle registration. service@expatslife.com Website: www.expatslife.com Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292

STORAGE China Self Storage Co. Ltd As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international industry standard to professionally developed Self Storage for private, family and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned, 24h access, flexible size. To learn more, visit www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make a reservation, contact 400-600-6378 info@ selfstorageinchina.com. Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd., Shunyi District, Beijing.

Koala Ministorage Koala Ministorage is the first professional self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn more, visit our website www.koalaministorage.com. To make a reservation, call us toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at questions@koalaministorage.com, or visit one of our stores.

REAL ESTATE AGENTS JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION SERVICE We are one of China’s leading real estate agencies boasting an extensive database of high-end properties for rent. We have helped thousands of expatriates find their homes as well as hundreds of companies re-locate their employees. Once we have found you your ideal home we will be on hand to deal with any post move issues and our dedicated after sales team will be contactable 7 days a week to help you with any queries you have throughout your stay in our country. > For more information please contact us: Email: paulquin@joannarealestate.com.cn Website: http:>beijing.joannarealestate. com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971) Replus-Benchmark “Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading real estate agencies and relocation service provider for expatriates in Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and Shenzhen. • Residential Home Search Service • Visa Application • Commercial Office Space Search Service • Buying and Selling Property Service E-mail: marketing@replus-benchmark.com Website: www.replus-benchmark.com > A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577 Silk Road Travel Management Ltd. Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing Silk Road tours and other classic routes in China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized in tailor making travel packages that allow travellers to truly experience the local cultures and explore the amazing heritages. Whether you are a small group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our professional staff will tailor make the tour programme based on your needs. Email: travel@the-silk-road.com www.the-silk-road.com TUI China An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s leading tourism group, TUI China was established in late 2003 as the first joint venture with foreign majority share in the Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters are in Beijing whilst its operations reach deep into the far corners of China. World of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and provides M.I.C.E services for renowned companies worldwide. > Add: Bright China Chang An Building, Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email: sales@tui. cn; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel: 8519 8800

BUSINESSES! PROMOTE YOUR SERVICES TO THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE EACH MONTH ON OUR CLASSIFIEDS PAGES. FOR MORE DETAILS AND SPECIAL PACKAGES PLEASE E-MAIL BJADVERTISING@ URBANATOMY.COM

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J A N U A RY 2 0 1 6 | 7 9

Meh

Ver y

Jindingxuan

Only a little

How drunk are you?

Does free-flow booze sound good to you?

Duh

Choose one: cocktails or champagne

Migas

The Kitchen Table, W Chang’an

TRIBE

Great Leap Brewing #45

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom

Burgers

Which do like better: burgers or pizza?

Pizza

A workday :(

Yes

Transit

by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Start Here

WHAT TIME IS IT?

MORNING

A colleague

Can he or she handle spice?

Brasserie Flo

EVENING

Bottega

Just catching up with one

Pebbles

Limoncello

Tequila

Which would you rather take shots of?

The whooole crew

How many friends?

Friends

I’m proposing

TRB

L.A. Palms Kitchen & Bar

Who are you with?

A date

A formal date?

Hani Gejiu

WHERE SHOULD YOU GO OUT TO EAT?

Is is the weekend?

NIGHT

Yes

Is your company paying?

Yes

Opera Bombana

Zarah