That's Beijing - June 2016

IN THE MINORITY

Holding on to Ethnic Identity in a Changing Beijing

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4 00 8 2 0 8428 城市漫步北京 英文版 6 月份 国 内 统 一 刊 号: CN 11-5232/GO China Intercontinental Press

ISSN 1672-8025

JUNE 2016

主管单位 ：中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 ：五洲传播出版社 地址 ：北京市海淀区北三环中路 31 号生产力大楼 B 座 602 邮编 100088 B-602 Shengchanli Building, No. 31 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Haidian District, Beijing 100088, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 总编辑 Editor in Chief 慈爱民 Ci Aimin 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department 邓锦辉 Deng Jinhui 编辑 Editor 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 / 市场 Distribution / Marketing 黄静，李若琳 Huang Jing, Li Ruolin

Editor-in-Chief Oscar Holland Food & Drink Editor Noelle Mateer Staff Reporter Dominique Wong National Arts Editor Andrew Chin Digital Content Editor Justine Lopez Designers Li Xiaoran, Iris Wang Staff Photographer Holly Li Contributors Mia Li, Zoey Zha, Virginia Werner, Jens Bakker, Emma Huang, Aelred Doyle, Dominic Ngai, Tongfei Zhang

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EDITOR’S NOTE

DEALS

We're giving away tickets to some of

JUNE

the very best Beijing

MY EDITOR’S NOTES USUALLY OFFER SOME PERSONAL MUSINGS ON THE MAGAZINE’S

cover story. But that leaves me in dangerous territory this month, given that our feature package is about Beijing’s ethnic minority communities.

Yes, my ethnicity is technically a minority one here, but nobody wants to hear a white dude reflecting on what it’s like being a white dude in China. If you do, keep an eye out for my forthcoming expat memoir. (I’m joking – and can everyone please stop writing expat memoirs?) Instead, I simply implore you to turn to page 36 as we meet members of Beijing’s three most populous minority communities: Manchu, Hui and Mongol.

In the meantime, I want to talk about sausages. Last month, the team and I headed to Arrow Factory’s new(ish) Liangmahe taproom to take part in a sausage-eating competition.

I came second, thanks for asking.

But I bring this up for two reasons. First, it provides an excuse to print the picture below.

And second, it allows me to segue into some shameless self promotion for our upcoming event at Arrow Factory. The Summer Sundowner will take place on the taproom’s rooftop on June 18, providing readers and assorted freeloaders with music, prizes and RMB30 craft beers (turn to page 67 for the full lowdown). I’ll be there – IPA in hand – reflecting on what it’s like to be a white dude in China.

I should also take this opportunity to let you know about some of the great stuff in this month’s magazine: Dominique Wong meets the Guangzhou-based photographer taking pictures of very sad-looking zoo animals (page 10); I ask the founder of Beijing’s favorite T-shirt brand, Plastered 8, to pick out his favorite tees on his company’s 10th birthday (page 20); Andrew Chin talks synthesizers with husband-and-wife duo Alpine Decline (page 28); and Noelle Mateer reviews a new book on China’s youth (page 33) before bringing you her characteristically discerning round-up of the month’s new food and drink openings (from page 48).

parties, openings, shows and talks all month, alongside free meals, drinks, discounts and giveaways. All you have to do is scan the QR code below, follow us on WeChat and keep an eye out for your chance to win. You'll get some other great stuff on your phone too.

Oscar Holland Editor-in-Chief

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

T hats_Beijing t w i t t e r. c o m / T h a t s B e i j i n g

The team prepares for a sausage-eating competition at Arrow Factory

facebook .com/ T hatsBeijing

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QUOTE OF THE ISSUE

“Loss of language doesn’t mean the disappearance of Manchu – the blood is still there” Artist Fucha Danqing on Manchu identity, page 43

6 CIT Y 8 HUTONG TO HELL Did banning tour groups solve NLGX’s overcrowding?

9 A C A PI TA L IDE A Why Capital Museum is an architectural wonder

15 URBAN DICTIONARY We ain’t saying she a gold digger, but that’s what laonü means

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16 LIFE & ST YLE

16 FRESH PRINTS OF BEIJING The man behind the punny pictureprinting pop-up

18 HEY MICKEY Disney gear to wear to Disneyland… or just around the house 24 TEE TIME Beijing’s most subversive T-Shirt brand on its 10th birthday

24

26 AR TS

26 GOT A KRUSH Japan’s DJ Krush on hip-hop in the digital age 28 OF SYNTH AND MAN Even Alpine Decline’s recordings sound like they’re live 33 THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT Alec Ash’s impressive book on China’s post-80s generation

28

4 8 E AT & D R I N K 53 HOTLINE BLING ‘China Mobile’ isn’t a China Mobile – it’s a restaurant

5 4 M Y S H U I O R T HE HI G H WAY Your guide to Beijing’s hydrating refreshments 56 T ONGZ HOU T IK K A TA C O S Fact: Tongzhou district has bomb Indian-Mexican fusion food 4 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

54

THE WRAP 10 WHY THE CAGED BIRD SINGS Thought-provoking photos of China’s zoos

36 MINORIT Y REPORT Beijing’s ethnic minorities talk culture, identity and food

50 HUTONG HANGOUTS Beixinqiao’s got ‘em – and we’ve got the scoop

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CITY TH E B U Z Z

THE FUTUREHEADS Patrons of the 14th Beijing International Automotive Exhibition get a dose of virtual reality inside Toyota’s autonomous vehicle display.

RANDOM NUMBER

207

…million is the amount in RMB that an 11th-century letter sold for at an auction in Beijing last month, a record price for a piece of Chinese calligraphy. Bought by Chinese media mogul and art collector Wang Zhongjun, the 936-year-old letter is the last surviving work of Chinese scholar Zeng Gong, who is considered one of the greatest prose writers of the Song dynasty (A.D. 960-1270). The work is now 45 times more valuable than when it made its debut at auction over 20 years ago. Big spender Wang also bought Van Gogh’s ‘Still Life, Vase with Daisies and Poppies’ for RMB403 million in 2014.

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Q U OT E O F T H E M O N T H

“It’s a free market. We will also make full achievement of the ‘iphone’ [sic] trademark, and work together with Apple to benefit more iphone consumers!” … reads a statement on the website of leather-goods manufacturer Xintong Tiandi Technology, in response to a Beijing court ruling in their favor in a trademark case brought by Apple. The court dismissed Apple’s appeal on the grounds that the US firm could not prove the iPhone brand was well-known in China when Xintong Tiandi filed its trademark back in 2007. Apple’s own bid was not approved internationally until 2013. This ruling grants the Chinese company the right to continue using the name on its products.

Ed i t e d by D o m i n i q u e Wo n g /

A R R E S T I N G B E H AV I O R

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

AS K A L AO B E I J I N G We met Sun, 53, during an afternoon walk in Xizhimen

Beijing police have detained almost 40 people connected to 30 cases of illegal gun possession since launching a special operation targeting firearms in March, according to the Municipal Public Security Bureau. The number of cases has increased by 36 percent compared to the same period last year and includes one case of four people using improvised firearms to play a real-life version of the video game CounterStrike. Private possession of firearms in China is strictly prohibited, though civilian use is sometimes permitted in certain organizations and workplaces, for hunting and security.

M I N D T H E GA P

Security doors will be introduced to Beijing’s Subway Line 1 by the end of 2017, and door installations have already begun at Nanlishilu Station, according to a spokesperson for the Beijing Subway Company. The age and structure of Line 1 have made it difficult to install the type of doors seen on newer lines, so current plans use half-height security doors akin to those on Line 13 and the Batong Line. Security doors were first introduced to the Beijing Subway in 2007 with the opening of Line 5. Now only Lines 1 and 2 lack the safety measures.

What do you think about the rising rent prices in Beijing?

“As an ordinary citizen I don’t know much about the housing market, but I have heard about the high rent prices in Beijing and I think that they’re too high – especially for ordinary people. Some laobeijing live in lodgings rather than owning a house, because it’s even more expensive to buy a house than to rent, and it’s too troublesome to wait in line for public housing. I think the housing prices in all big cities will keep increasing.

I’m not a landlord myself, although it is pretty common for laobeijing – especially those with low salaries – to rent out houses to migrant workers. High rents aren’t necessarily a bad thing, as many migrant workers are disorderly and compete with Beijing people for work.

They may also have destructive habits, which can harm the original cultural and working landscape of the city.

Laobeijing adhere to rules, no matter what the work is.

Migrant workers shouldn’t come to Beijing if they can’t afford to – surely working in smaller cities would do.

The government really should do something about the problems brought about by the influx of migrants. They have been taking various measures but ultimately they have been too slow in addressing the problems. When the PRC was founded, our leaders considered making Tongzhou the capital city. It’s apparent they ought to have done this. [ED: The relocation of the municipal government to Tongzhou is now underway, see That’s Beijing’s October 2015 issue.]

High rent may affect people’s ability to spend money on other items but this economic impact is not my business, it’s the government’s business.

My children will go abroad to study and if they want to or are able to live abroad afterwards, it’s up to them. But I hope they can.”

As told to Emma Huang W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 7

CI T Y | TA LES

TALES OF THE CITY Domin the re ique Wong c Nanlu ent ban on asks whet h oguxi iconic ang h tour group er as aff huton ected s on g the

NO-LUOGUXIANG? Nanluoguxiang, everybody’s favorite touristtrap hutong (no, just us?), recently got slapped with a tour-group ban after shit got too real, in more ways than one. But mainly because of crowd congestion.

According to the government’s safety regulations for public areas, Nanluoguxiang – or ‘NLGX’ as it is more affectionately known in txt-speak – is only allowed to accept 17,000 tourists at any one time. But there are instances when this figure has been known to swell to more than 100,000, as anyone who has had the misfortune of visiting during holidays can attest.

To support the new policy, local authorities downgraded NLGX from its triple-A tourist attraction rating in an attempt to discourage the hordes of hungry visitors. But, did it work?

During the May Labor Day holiday, NLGX was reportedly as crowded as ever. But overall, since the downgrade, visitor numbers have decreased by a quarter, according to Beijing Today.

When we venture down to see for ourselves, we are confronted by the dreaded white street barriers which separate Nanluoguxiang Station from the hutong itself.

This ban means business, even if it makes things more difficult for non-tour group folk.

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Speaking of business, how has the ban affected the local shops and residents of the famous hutong? Well, locals tell us that it’s a welcome addition to an already packed street.

A security worker standing near the entrance tells us: “Before there were too many people, making the environment unpleasant and disorderly. I’m not sure if the ban will affect business much, because in the past, even if there were 10 tour groups visiting, only two or three would actually buy anything.”

His sentiments appear to be shared by many of the shopkeepers we speak with. One teashop employee says: “Our business is still going well. It’s about the same since the ban.”

Meanwhile a postcard store employee shares: “Tour groups just walk up and down the street, they don’t affect our business.”

One of the hutong’s many drink vendors is also positive about the ban, telling us: “Look – now people can walk comfortably. Before, you could hardly walk down the street. Now even on the weekend it’s not bad.”

One food shop worker sees both sides of the coin. “The ban hasn’t influenced us too much because people from tour groups rarely buy food," he says. "Instead they come here [NLGX] to buy Chinese specialty goods.

Obviously we want to have as much business as possible, so we preferred it when there

was no ban. But it’s more peaceful now.”

The new rules may benefit the hutong’s cleaners more than anyone else. One cleaner tells us: “There used to be so much trash, cars couldn’t pass and there were too many people. Sometimes, after eating, they would throw their garbage away, but not even in the trash can,” he says, gesturing toward the ground. “It’s much cleaner now.”

The street certainly looks tidier, although it being a Monday may have something to do with this. Even so, the hutong is humming with people: young, old, local and otherwise – they just never number more than five in a group. There seems to be more order here; it’s pleasant, even.

In sum, the ban looks good for NLGX. And yet there is nostalgia for the good old days – the really old days when NLGX wasn’t full of overpriced snacks, ‘cultural’ garb or gangs of high school children taking selfies with squid-on-a-stick.

One cafe worker who has been based in NLGX for the past five years tells us: “I’ve been here a long time. Sure, the ban is good but it’s not the same as before.

Nanluoguxiang used to be great before it became what you see now. There were a lot of small coffee shops and there was a nice feeling.”

Well, at least there’s always the hidden gem that is 69 Café.

ON THE BLOCK | CIT Y

CAPITAL MUSEUM, MUXIDI The Building Capital Museum was established in 1981, though it only moved to its present site, west of Tiananmen Square, in 2006. Although lesser known than other art museums in the city, the building boasts architecture that is both striking and inimitable.

The building showcases classical and contemporary characteristics. The long stone curtain wall nods to the old city walls of ancient China, while the steel canopy roof and glass curtain wall offer modernity. Another distinctive feature is the oval-shaped Bronze Exhibition Hall which extends from the ground to the museum exterior and symbolizes the unearthing of relics.

New guidelines on urban planning will forbid the construction of “bizarre” and “odd-shaped” buildings that are devoid of character or cultural heritage. In our new feature, we

The Residents’ View Regular visitors Zhang and Fan tell us: “The exterior is very beautiful.” Meanwhile, a museum employee shares: “The environment is really great.”

gather opinions on some of the unusual architecture that remains, from both an architectural and civilian viewpoint.

The Architect’s View Project manager of OBRA Architects, Sen Liu, says: “Capital Museum was one of the earliest collaboration projects between foreign and local architectural companies (AREP and Beijing Institute of Architectural Design respectively).

Before, it was only big banks, international corporations and diplomatic facilities that hired foreign architects and local design institutes to work on projects together. So it’s one of the earliest local cultural buildings that tried to shape its appearance using a foreign perspective.

“It resulted in a refreshing piece of work. Its representation of local culture goes beyond a superficial mimic of the traditional Chinese roof or other stereotypical ‘Chinese’ features.

“The extended flat roof, vertical bamboo-like space, use of oxidized bronze material and the combination of the concrete panel and glass curtain wall systems, provides a unique, modern yet traditional, aesthetic. There are many other projects which have been made with similar goals over the last few years, but none have been executed as well as Capital Museum.”

朝阳店 CHAOYANG PARK STORE 东湖别墅店 EAST LAKE STORE

TEL: (010) 84511168 B1 of East Lake Villa Club, Dongcheng District 东城区东湖别墅东湖俱乐部地下一层 观湖国际店 GREEN LAKE STORE

TEL: (010) 59283525 \ 59283723 A1 Building of GreenLake International Apartment, Chaoyang District 朝阳区观湖国际甲 1 号楼 新城国际店 CENTRAL PARK STORE

TEL: (010) 65336791 No. 101, Tower 17, Central Park, NO.6, Chaowai Ave. Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街 6 号新城国际 17 栋 101 海晟店 SEASONS PARK STORE

TEL: (010) 64175815 First floor of Dongchengyishu No.6, Shizipo Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区十字坡街 6 号东城逸墅 1 层 逸盛阁店 EAST AVENUE STORE

TEL: (010) 64602658 Room 108 ,East Avenue, No.10 Xindong Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路 10 号逸盛阁 108 室

TEL: (010) 65016249 \ 65931220 West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农展南路 1 号（朝阳公园西门南 60 米） 三里屯店 SANLITUN STORE

TEL: (010) 64616928 \ 64635156 No.6 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 6 号 芳草地店 RITAN STORE

TEL: (010) 85630626 No.4 Ritan North Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛北路 4 号 香江花园店 RIVERA GARDEN STORE

TEL: (010) 84701557 \ 84704095 No.1 Laiguangying East Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区来广营东路 1 号

建外 SOHO 店 JIANWAI SOHO STORE

TEL: (010) 58692326 \ 58692253 0413 of Building 4, Jianwai SOHO, No. 39 Middle Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路 39 号建外 SOHO4 号 楼 0413

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FE AT URE | CI T Y

Zoos are bona fide city institutions but photographer Zhang Baoyi cares more for the animals inside. Her challenging new photography project raises difficult questions for both zoos and those who visit them, as Dominique Wong finds out.

Z

hang Baoyi’s passion for photography and animals came hand-in-hand.

Growing up next door to a zoo, Zhang would often feed lions, tigers, snakes and monkeys.

A typical childhood this was not, as the photographer tells us: “I had a manual film camera – my father bought it to document me growing up – which I would use to photograph my family and neighborhood animals. So, while other children played with their dolls and pets, I was busy feeding snakes and baby tigers.”

The experience left an indelible mark, she admits. “It helped me mature and explore photography in more depth. Observing the nature of animals’ lives made me want to research them more.”

Zhang’s photography project, which focuses on zoo life, is the result of this curiosity. The series – five parts in total – includes the simply named Chinese Zoo and Living Space, from which the images on these pages are taken.

Zhang shares: “I chose the zoo as my location because I noticed that every time I visited, the animals – apart from when eating and sleeping – seemed like they were in a daze, as if stunned. They were like robots pacing back and forth with swaying heads, pecking themselves and even tearing out their own hair or harming themselves in other ways.”

Zoochosis is the term used to describe such behavior, which is often displayed by animals in captivity. As Zhang explains: “Zoology studies suggest it’s because of the small size of the enclosures in which the animals are housed, which is counter to their instincts of living in the wild. When this is combined with the effect of long-term exposure to onlookers in a noisy environment, the animals’ hormones become imbalanced, which is manifested in their mechanical actions.”

Zhang’s observations make for an arresting but disconcerting set of photographs.

Top, L-R | A brown bear at Nanning Zoo; an African elephant and its trainer at Nanning Zoo Opposite | A muster of Indian peacocks at Hangzhou Zoo

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

The animals’ living space has rockery, trees, and painted walls, which makes visitors feel like the animals are living in a proper environment. But in reality it is merely a mask to confuse mankind

Top and bottom | Hornbills at Hangzhou Zoo

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FE AT URE | CI T Y

R | A panda at Hangzhou Zoo

Chinese Zoo is a raw and uncompromising #nofilter look at animals in their caged environs. A particularly uncomfortable photograph depicts an elephant sitting on its behind, sporting bloodshot eyes and a manic smile, trunk pointed upwards and a human trainer by its side.

Another shows a bear, with a rope and ring dangling from its nose, walking across a tightrope, its fearful eyes downcast. Even the animals left to their own devices appear to lack autonomy: Shut behind bars, the creatures appear joyless and alone.

In Living Space, however, the focus turns to the animals’ surroundings. Rather than zooming in, Zhang frames the animals in their un-natural habitats.

The title is ironic, she explains: “The animals’ living space has rockery, trees and painted walls, which makes visitors feel like the animals are living in a proper environment. But in reality it is merely a mask to confuse mankind. It looks real but behind the scenes, it is still a cage of reinforced concrete and iron. Animals are actually living without freedom in a cramped space.”

Zhang draws parallels between the animals’ lives and our own. “I want people who are living in an ‘urban city cage’ to reflect on the environment in which they are living their own lives. Living in the city, everything seems available, and yet our happiness decreases.”

Over the course of the five-year project Zhang visited almost a dozen zoos and safari parks around China including Hangzhou Zoo, Wuhan Safari Park, Kunming Zoo and Beijing Zoo, among others.

As such, Zhang was exposed to the complex realities of zoos, she says. “In China, many zoos’ efforts are insufficient: There are often stories in the media about certain zoos abusing animals, which results in heavy criticism from animal rights activists.”

The issue of whether zoos are beneficial or detrimental to animals is a conL | A lar gibbon at Hangzhou Zoo

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CI T Y | FE AT URE

troversial one. Those arguing the former believe that zoos educate the public, as well as offer endangered species by a safe environment.

Those in opposition point to the aforementioned ill effects suffered by animals kept in captivity, in addition to fundamental animal rights.

So, where does Zhang fall on the scale? It’s complicated, she says. “I am really concerned about the wellbeing of animals. [But] nowadays there is an increasing number of animal welfare organizations, and people are more aware of the need to protect animals. Zoos are becoming more humane and environmentally friendly.”

These conclusions were reached with help from others, she says. “I encountered some interesting zookeepers who like photography. They shared their knowledge about the history of Chinese zoos and offered me a chance to get in close contact with the animals.”

Despite Zhang’s hopeful outlook, her series is marked with an unmistakable air of sadness – though this may be a case of art imitating life. “When I feel down in the dumps I will go to [my favorite zoo] Hangzhou Zoo. I’ve been shooting there for several years, so the animals seem to share a special understanding with me. There’s a panda – it looks like Bao from Kung Fu Panda – who always gives me the same gestures and I like seeing the warmth between the mother zebra and her little one.”

Zhang’s childlike wonder remains, but with the added sense of responsibility that occurs with age. She reflects: “Zoos are a mirror of humanity. I hope that my work will allow more people to think and realize that animals require better living environments.” █

I want people who are living in an ’urban city cage‘ to reflect on the environment in which they are living their own lives

To see more of Zhang’s photos, visit www.thatsmags.com

A ring-tailed lemur at Hangzhou Zoo

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CHINESE URBAN DICTIONARY | CIT Y

Laonü / Lāonǚ / 捞女 n. a woman who relies on her sexual allure to achieve upward mobility; a gold digger Why does Lingling always go to the golf course? She doesn't even play.

She is playing a different game, if you catch my drift.

Oh. She’s trying to meet a rich guy?

Why else would she doll up just to sit there playing with her hair?

Does she really think being a laonü will work?

Well, it worked for all her other friends.

Almost every society is a class society, regardless of whether its members admit it or not. And we live in an age where upward mobility is increasingly rare. It used to take either Albert Einstein’s superb intellect, Henry Ford’s hard work or Bill Gates’ lucky timing to step into the class above.

Nowadays, bridging the divide is so difficult that it will probably take all of these things combined to truly rise up.

But there are class societies and there are communist class societies. In China, where the idea of class was once forcefully eliminated, it is now back with a vengeance. And pop culture is eager to depict class differences and those who try to defy their status.

Among those desperately seeking upward mobility, laonü is a favorite group to portray. These are the young and gorgeous women hoping to marry into wealthy families (lao is the verb ‘to scoop’; nü means ‘woman’).

Coming from working- or middle-class families, these girls set their eyes on ‘marrying up’ and will risk anything for the chance. Urban legend suggests that they frequent private clubs and corporate gatherings, spending all their money on a first-class plane

ticket in the hope of catching the eye of someone who can actually afford to be there. (Wendy Deng is often said to be the poster girl of this group.)

Originally a Cantonese word, laonü began as a derogatory term for any young women from a poor region of China who came to rich cities like Hong Kong to find a partner. Soon it was adopted by the Shanghainese to describe gold diggers from the north, and then by Beijingers to describe gold diggers from Dongbei.

Nowadays, in addition to being an indictment of China’s imbalanced regional development, laonü has also become an indictment of the lack of upward mobility. The upper-class slaps the label on those who hope to achieve their status, while the middleclass blames the upper-class for keeping them out.

So, before you get jealous of laonü or the rich guys who marry them, know that class society is a bitch and the lack of upward mobility is bad for everyone.

By day, Mia Li is a news reporter in Beijing; at night, she tries to turn that news into standup comedy.

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LIFE & STYLE S T Y L E RADAR

S P OT L I G H T

PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

Mikey Chee, founder of Fresh Prints

— So how did the idea for an on-the-spot WeChat photoprinting service come about?

Last November, when my girlfriend and I went to Jiuzhaigou, we took a bunch of great photos. I wanted to print them out, but when I went to the print shop I was so upset with the customer service. I started wondering why nothing like this existed on WeChat. Flash forward to last December and the idea of Fresh Prints came together. When I printed out some photos for my buddy’s birthday party I knew it was something special.

— Why is your logo a toaster?

With Fresh Prints, you send photos in and photos come out, just like a toaster – it’s that simple. The idea is that the toaster puts together the speed, efficiency and warm-baked love that go into our service. Also, it’s super adorable! Our O2O printer, Toasty, is a fun and simple way to experience new photo-printing. He’s so cute! I love Toasty.

— How did you come up with the name Fresh Prints?

[Breaks into rap parodying The Fresh Prince of Bel Air theme song] Now this is a story all about how my life got relocated to China, holy cow! And I’d like to take a minute just sit right there and tell you how I became the prince of a town called Beijing. In central New Jersey, born and raised, in the Tesla showroom is where I spent most of my days. Educating the masses about electric cars and making hot sales on the spot, when all of a sudden my manager got weird. I got in one hot streak and my boss got scared. He said you're moving to China because they need some good air!

— Very good! What’s it like being an entrepreneur in Beijing?

It’s awesome. The community here is amazing and everyone is incredibly helpful. Beijing is about raising people up and no douche BS. #BeiArea is a movement that I’m involved with along with some other [start-up] founders in Beijing. It’s a motion to progress the community of movers and shakers. JL For more info on Fresh Prints, add it on WeChat: kubiyin, or call 185 1399 0107.

COV E T

A Close Shave Father’s Day is fast approaching, and if you’re still wondering what to buy for the man who knocked up your mom, Straight Up Razor has your answer. Specializing in restoring vintage razor blades, this new startup is rolling out two Father’s Day shaving sets for gentlemen to refine their clean-cut looks. Both the basic and luxury sets (RMB280 and RMB550 respectively) come with quality shaving soap and a can of handmade sandalwood aftershave balm by Sapo Soap. The basic set also comes with a metal shaving bowl and a wooden badger brush, while the luxury set includes a turquoise porcelain shaving bowl and a handmade wooden silver-tip brush. Fancy something for yourself too? Buying one of the sets will get you special discounts on signature vintage straight razors (or get a free stand and travel box with any order of modern or safety razors). All of the above is available from Straight Up’s website or WeChat store and can be delivered to Beijing in around two days. www.straightup-razors.com, WeChat: straightup-razors

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Ed i t e d by D o m i n i c Ng a i /

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

OV E R H E A R D

MADE IN CHINA

Wearable Artifacts Chinese ceramics normally belong in a museum (or your grandmother’s antique cabinet).

But Beijing-based artist Li Xiaofeng doesn’t seem to think so.

For the past decade, he’s been using porcelain shards recovered from archaeological sites dating back as far as the Song Dynasty (960-1279) to create showpieces and costumes, including suits, shirts, ties and women’s dresses.

After completing his studies at Beijing’s Central Academy of

Fine Arts in 2002, the Hubei native decided to stay in the capital to pursue his passion for design. One of Li’s most famous projects was his 2010 collaboration with Lacoste for its Holiday Collector series. Here, he used shattered pieces of custom-made porcelain bowls featuring hand-painted versions of the label’s crocodile logo.

Just last year, Li’s designs appeared in the exhibition China: Through the Looking Glass at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. His most recent series, Past Presence, includes a handful of porcelain dresses made from Ming and Qing dynasty shards.

“SOMETHING MUST BE WRONG WITH MY TASTE. EVERYONE SEEMS TO BE IN LOVE WITH THIS DRESS BUT CAN SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN TO ME WHAT’S SO BEAUTIFUL ABOUT IT? AM I THE ONLY ONE WHO THINKS IT LOOKS LIKE SHE’S WEARING A HUGE BLACK PLASTIC BAG?” A confused netizen comments on Chinese singer Li Yuchun’s redcarpet look at the 2016 Cannes Film Festival. Li was seen wearing a shiny long-sleeved Julien Fournie Couture gown at the screening of The BFG. Following the event, the French fashion designer posted 92 images and videos of Li in the dress on his Instagram account, which went viral overnight on Chinese social media. Li’s fans praised the pop idol’s look for being “as elegant as a black swan,” while others criticized the dress’ resemblance to a black plastic garbage bag. Oh, and did we mention that she was also wearing a RMB17 million Harry Winston necklace?

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 1 7

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FOR HER 01 Uniqlo RMB79 www.uniqlo.cn 02 Disney Store RMB398 disneyfashionyj.tmall.com

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03 Disney Store RMB288 disneyfashionyj.tmall.com 04 Pandora RMB398-598 each bead www.pandora.net 05 Disney Store RMB248 disneyfashionyj.tmall.com

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FASHION | LIFE & S T Y LE

To n

gfei

Zhang and Domin

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Everyone in Shanghai seems to be talking about the opening of the Disney Resort (don’t worry, Beijing, we’ll have Universal Studios in 2019). Clothing brands are cashing in on the hype, so Mickey, Minnie and their friends will be filling out stores across the country. Here’s our pick of the best Disney-inspired attire and, if it’s all a little too saccharine for you, we threw in some Star Wars and Marvel clothing for good measure.

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Fr o m S u p e rhe roe st

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FOR HIM 06 Metersbonwe RMB79 www.banggo.com 07 Li Ning RMB339 store.lining.com 08 Disney Store RMB224 disneyfashionyj.tmall.com 09 Disney Store RMB268 disneyfashionyj.tmall.com

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10 Uniqlo RMB79 www.uniqlo.cn

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W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 1 9

LIFE & S T Y LE | FE AT URE

"‘Vile Age’ was our venture into comic book artwork.

This one is a panda destroying Sanlitun luxury brand stores." (2014)

“’Sex Shop Neon Sign’ was an obvious one for us, as we celebrate Beijing’s beauty.” (2009)

“An iconic diswashing liquid bottle. I always loved the design and people would buy it – just not very often. But it started our popular iconic object series.” (2007)

“My first ever shirt. The brand started here with one unsuccessful idea, because no one bought it.

It’s also my favorite.” (2006)

FOR ALL THE TEES IN CHINA

“Beach Babe Beijing is a 1920s piece of art that we used to create this stunning full print design.” (2015)

i nt e r v i e w by O s c a r Ho l l a n d

As Beijing T-shirt brand Plastered 8 turns 10 years old, we ask founder Dominic Johnson-Hill to pick out his favorites from the last decade

“‘Gongbao jiding’ is a popular dish that we simply printed onto a shirt. It was worn by China’s Oprah, Chen Lu Yu, on her TV show and then it went nuts – with spicy chicken.” (2006)

“We launched this at the moment they banned smoking in Beijing and were told to take it out of our window display. Didn’t stop them from selling like hot cakes.” (2014)

Dominic Johnson-Hill on… … how it all began “The beauty of Plastered is that it’s been total chaos from the start. I had no plans, just living on Nanluoguxiang with my family.

My businesses had all gone bankrupt, I’d run out of money and I risked it all on opening a little T-shirt shop that was 13 square meters.” … early successes “I was selling one or two T-shirts a day, when suddenly one Christmas we did a lot of sales because expats came to buy Christmas presents. Six months later I landed a spot on China’s biggest chat show and I ended up a semi-celebrity on Chinese TV doing regular shows. The brand grew along with my TV fame. A lot of people say ‘oh, you’re so good at marketing’ but I’m not. I just got lucky that I’m quite good on television. The stars aligned.” … his biggest mistake “There’s so many of them. It’s probably thinking that I could build a big business. At year five or six I made a decision to scale up by selling in Shanghai, Singapore, Hong Kong… I was making

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the most money I’d ever made but I had no net profit. In business, everyone talks about ‘scaling up’ but I only wanted happiness from this.” … his best decision “I went to the office and said: ‘We’re closing Shanghai, we’re cutting off the wholesalers and we’re forgetting the franchises.’

Since then I’ve been insanely happy. My ambition is to build the best business, not the biggest. I’m a small-business man and I’m good at that.” … how Plastered 8 has changed “By the beginning of 2008 our business was 70 percent foreigners, now it’s about 95 percent Chinese. The aesthetic has changed dramatically to cartoon artwork and figurines. But I don’t really design for the customer. You have to know who your customer is, but you still have to design for yourself. Otherwise the brand loses its soul.” www.plasteredtshirts.com

L IF E & S T Y L E | A R R I VA L S

SCENE & HEARD 3

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RECHENBERG SPRING/SUMMER CO L L E C T I O N

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Kathrin von Rechenberg has crafted another beautiful line of apparel for the summer, but it’s more than just summer apparel.

Her muted colors, creative silhouettes and sharp lines are a serious upgrade to any closet full of lazy summer dresses. And yet, these pieces are breathable enough for even the hottest of Beijing days. Rechenberg has long been known for her beautiful tea silk pieces, but she ups the ante in this collection with an all-new hand-dyeing technique that uses Shuliang root. The diversity of this collection’s lineup ensures that there’s a piece here for any occasion – we can see her Shuliang one-sleeve silk organza wrap adding a welcome splash of innovation to a formal outfit, and we can also imagine her wrap-around dress looking damn fine at work. All of these components are the result of Beijing-based handicraft.

Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm, by appointment only; 12 Xinyuan

Xili Dongjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里东街 12 号 (6463 1788)

‘ P O P PY ’ BY T H E C A M B R I D G E SATC H E L CO M PA N Y

There is something quintessentially British about the Cambridge Satchel Company.

But having evolved from a kitchen-table operation in the UK to the purveyor of a globally recognized product, the brand is stepping up its efforts in China once again.

After successfully launching on Tmall in 2014, the company now deems the China market to be so important that its newest products will be available here before anywhere else in the world (including Cambridge). The 2016 range unveils the bag-maker’s new style: ‘Poppy.’ Our favorite is the ‘Poppy Backpack’ – a cute leather backpack with adjustable straps and metal push locks. There are four other products in the range which – as you’d expect – come in a selection of subtle and not-so-subtle colors (pictured below: ‘periwinkle blue’ and ‘dusky rose’). All are exclusively available on the Cambridge Satchel Company’s Tmall store, where you can also find the iconic leather satchel that made its name and the brand’s other styles, including a traveler bag and mini satchel.

cambridgesatchel.tmall.hk

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A RT E M I S

Artemis is the goddess to rule all design and lifestyle stores. Located in Taikooli South, it’s the best-looking new store in Sanlitun – and it’s got substance too. Finally, a shop whose wares can be brought home to your parents without fear of embarrassment.

Artemis was conceived by Beijing local Austin Huang, who noticed the need for a well-curated lifestyle store to complement the growing trend in China of seeking selfimprovement through presentation. The store stocks minimalistic furniture and home deco, shelves and shelves of candles, quirky stationery, fashion accessories, grooming products, pet accessories and more. With brands including the hip jewelry designer Estella Bartlett, contemporary men’s designer Ron Dorff and Mediterraneaninspired home and office brand Octaevo, there is a distinctly Anglo-European feel. In fact, everything is so cool – and we mean ‘accessible cool’ rather than ‘pretentious cool’ – we have a hard time leaving. But you don’t have to: Artemis houses a cafe and bar equipped with pastries, desserts, wine and house espresso roasted especially for the store by 18 Grams Roasters in Hong Kong.

Plus, by the time you read this, an expanded menu offering should be available, as well as an outdoor seating area. We have a feeling we’re going to be spending a lot of time here, as should you.

S6-11A Taikoo Li Sanlitun South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里

屯太古里南 S6-11A (6416 5126, WeChat: ArtemisBeijing)

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ADVERTORIAL | LIFE & ST YLE

SHANG XIA Twilight Bamboo Marquetry Storage Box RMB38,000

S

ince the early 20th century, children from around the world have been showing their appreciation for dads on every third Sunday of June. This Father’s Day, contemporary lifestyle brand Shang Xia is elevating the standards of gifting with a selection of menswear and home décor products that will make your dad the happiest man in the world.

Shang Xia’s Heqi Men’s Jacket is the perfect thing to impress the sophisticated dad with classic, timeless style. The name of the line, heqi (literally the mingling of breath), stands for ‘harmony’ – referring to the pairing of cashmere and camelhair for a soft and warm layer of comfort, all wrapped in the sleek design of a Han-style gown.

Another great choice for the warmer days to come is the Moon Light Men’s Jacket made with luxurious ivory-white silk, offering some feather-light summer comfort for the coolest dads, while still allowing them to master the art of layering with a plain shirt inside.

In their classy lineup of home décor products, a collection of wooden boxes in the Twilight series inspired by the contours of Ming dynasty furniture seem destined to be a popular gift for all types of dads.

Made with rich Zitan, ebony or cherry wood and inlaid with delicate carved bamboo, they come in several elegant shapes and can be used to store jewelry in the dresser or stationery in the study.

For dads who enjoy a cigar or two on special occasions, the Shan Shui Cigar Ashtrays are the ideal way to show your love. Made with unique ink stone and high quality marble to resemble the soft yet powerful brushstrokes of a classic Chinese ink painting. The ashtrays come in two forms – round heavens and square earth – to represent the beauty of art and nature.

Tea is the national drink of China, and Shang Xia’s Ding Tea Set comes with a teapot, steeping cup and six drinking cups, all made with porcelain. Inspired by the three-legged ding pot, the set’s minimalistic elegance will warm the hearts of the most dedicated connoisseurs and casual tea drinkers alike.

In the end, it’s the thought that counts. At Shang Xia, you’ll be able to find something to impress fathers with a wide range of styles and SHANG XIA Twilight Bamboo Marquetry personalities and show him what a thoughtful Incense Holder son or daughter you are.

RMB8,000

SHANG XIA Shan Shui Cigar Ashtrays RMB3,800

SHANG XIA Shan Shui Cigar Ashtrays RMB3,800

SHANG XIA Moon Light Men's Jacket RMB5,800 SHANG XIA Heqi Men's Jacket RMB7,600

SHANG XIA Da Tian Di Rocking Chair RMB82,000

SHANG XIA Ding Tea Set RMB7,800

L118 & 119, L1 China World Mall, China World Trade Center, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号 中国国际贸易中心国贸商城1楼 L118 & 119 86-10-6505 3446

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 2 3

TIBET: BEAUTY AND THE BUREAUCRACY

by N i c k Wa l s h

Perched a few feet away from Tibet’s Nam-tso lake, some 5,000 meters above sea level, it dawns on you that the only sound contending with your own breath is the quiet creaking of the ice blanketed over the lake.

A disarming feeling starts to sink in. I guess you could call it calm, even tranquility.

It’s a sensation that is rarely experienced by people living in a city as fast-paced, and at times claustrophobic, as Beijing.

In modern life it’s all too easy to lose track of the beauty of the natural world. Tibet is where it can be rediscovered.

Mountains Beyond Mountains

As clichéd as it is to evoke notions of peace and serenity when describing Tibet, a region synonymous with Buddhism, prayer flags and the humble yak, there is good reason why Tibet has travel writers quickly reaching for the superlatives.

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Tibet is, quite simply, one of the most photogenic places imaginable. The high altitude makes every color appear brighter and every contour more sharply defined. Here even the most amateur photographer’s pictures take on the life of a National Geographic center spread. It’s hard to go wrong. Bluer skies and more picturesque mountain ranges are hard to come by.

Tibet inspires a simplistic reverence for beauty that the modern world has sadly lost sight of. From the incredibly intricate murals found at Sera Monastery to the breathtaking scope of the region’s epic landscapes, a respect for culture and the natural world is etched into the region’s DNA.

Tour Groups Have Value

It’s no great secret that traveling with a tour guide is mandatory in Tibet and for some, this is a dealbreaker. Images of elderly couples in matching outfits tend to taint our perception of

ADVERTORIAL | LIFE & ST YLE

Read this before you travel to Tibet: Altitude sickness occurs when our bodies struggle to acclimatize to the lower levels of oxygen available at high altitudes in places like the Tibetan plateau.

Symptoms range from shortness of breath and sleeplessness to physical exhaustion, nausea and headaches. It feels a bit like having a hangover!

Fortunately, most travelers only experience mild altitude sickness and with a bit of foresight and the right medication, these symptoms can be mitigated. Be sure to consult your doctor before you travel to Tibet!

what it’s really like to be a part of a travel group.

The truth is you’re likely to have a lot in common with the people you tour with. For a start, they’ll share the gumption you have to head to a place like Tibet!

Traveling in a tour group has a wonderful equalizing effect.

Social barometers like age, occupation and salary, matter very little when you’re packed into a truck on a four-hour drive through the mountains.

A shared sense of wonder and curiosity breaks down barriers and brings people together faster than you can say “pass me the sunscreen.”

For a purely relaxing vacation, head to a beach in Thailand.

But to satiate a yearning for something bolder, Tibet presents a unique travel opportunity.

If this sounds like your kind of adventure, it’s time to make your way to Tibet. You will come back a little calmer, a little wiser and with a better understanding of a world far beyond your own.

The Going Isn’t Tough While we all would love to experience Tibet, few of us actually make the plunge.

This largely has to do with tales of paperwork as high as the Himalayas standing in between us and an unforgettable journey.

Don’t let red tape or travel hang-ups stand between you and the journey of a lifetime. Let Ctrip’s Things To Do tours take the hassle out of getting there.

Simply send us the following documents, and we’ll do the rest: 1. Passport photo page 2. China visa 3. Signed authorization agreement (provided by Ctrip) Let Ctrip’s Things To Do (english.ctrip.com/ttd) take the hassle out of getting there. Give us 2-3 weeks to process the permit and you’ll be out the door and bound for the Tibetan Plateau!

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 2 5

ARTS CO LLAG E

W H AT ' S N E W

DRUMROLL

DJ KRUSH

As the world’s most widely spoken language, Mandarin has a long and rich legacy that’s explored by David Moser in A Billion Voices.

The Academic Director of CET Chinese Studies at Beijing Capital Normal University tells the story of the unlikely individuals that altered the course of the Chinese language.

The Penguin China special mini-book is available on Amazon.

Guangzhou’s lo-fi indie-pop band yourboyfriendsucks are billing their latest EP as “some retarded pop songs with too much reverb.” Opening confidently with a cover of The Jesus and Mary Chain’s ‘Just Like Honey,’ the standout tracks on episode 01 flirt with 80s trends, from the dreampop of ‘Stay/Stayaway’ to the jangly rage of ‘diu x3’. Available at qiiisnacksrecords. bandcamp.com.

A winner of the 2014 Lu Xun Literary Prize and the 2015 Mao Dun Literary Prize, Ge Fei’s literary legacy stretches back to the 1980s with his avant garde novellas like Flock of Brown Birds. In this Penguin China special, Gu spins an arresting allegory inspired by the early days of Deng Xiaoping’s reforms. Available from June 20 on Amazon.

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One of the most important names in Japanese hip-hop, DJ Krush has released eight solo albums since exploding onto the scene with his eponymous 1994 debut. A prolific performer who has played in 350 cities in over 50 countries, Krush makes a welcome return to Beijing with a show at Yugong Yishan.

— Do your grandchildren like your music?

[Laughs] At the moment, my grandchildren are into anime music on TV rather than the DJ Krush sound.

— Speaking of the DJ Krush sound, a lot of the tracks you’ve sampled throughout your career have come from the early 1970s. Why’s that?

I think it’s because the sound, texture and feel of [that era] matches the sound image that I’m trying to paint. I need various colors to express my world through sound. If it matches the world that I’m painting, I will go with it. I’m not limiting myself to a certain era.

— Last year’s Butterfly Effect was your first album in 11 years. Why did you decide that it was time to put out an album?

It was the earthquake, tsunami and nuclear plant accident that happened in March 2011. There are so many things happening on our planet, both acts of

God and the disasters that human beings make. All these things influence each other intricately and time goes on heading to the future. I had been working on tracks and releasing them digitally but it just didn’t become an album. I had been DJing around the world and it’s like, next thing you know, 11 years had passed.

— But don’t you think albums matter less in the digital age anyway?

Today, with the evolution of digital, various music styles come and go.

Everything is more accessible and anyone can take part. With that said, it becomes very important to build your own style. You need to absorb various influences and use them to seek your own sound. Never lose yourself.

The album format is very important to me.

— So over the last 11 years have your methods of – or motivations for – making music changed?

I didn’t use any of the latest equipment.

I used an old Mac and old-version software to make Butterfly Effect. But the struggle of moving forward in life is a part of my work.

There are so many things I want to achieve. I just move forward to outdo myself. That’s it.

OH

Sat Jun 11; RMB100 (early bird), RMB150 (presale), RMB200 (door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

Ed i t e d by A n d re w C h i n /

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

C A N VAS S E D

Xu Xinwu, XXW

Hangzhou artist Xu Xinwu channels the driving force of ‘energy’ between the physical and non-physical – tangible and intangible – in his geometry-inspired artworks. Xu’s first solo exhibition in Beijing showcases paintings and videos, with single colors acting as a focal point for viewers to be sucked into the works’ “energy field.”

Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm, through Jun 26; free; Ying

Space, Red 1-A3, Caochangdi, Chaoyang 朝阳区草 场地艺术区红一号 A3 应空间 (51273153)

H AO B U H AO

Hao

Bu Hao

Riding high on a USD96.6 million record-setting weekend for Captain America: Civil War, directors Joe and Anthony Russo have partnered with a Beijing-based production company to create a Chinese superhero franchise, tentatively titled A Hero’s Awakening. The film, which fans have dubbed ‘Captain China,’ will see the siblings on board as producers.

Just months after launching, Apple’s iMovie and iBooks services have gone dark amid official pressure. Representatives from the Californian company are optimistic that services will resume but China’s digital space is becoming increasingly regulated. Last month, Alibaba and Disney had to suspend their subscription service, DisneyLife, in similar circumstances.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 2 7

ARTS | MUSIC

Beijing’s Alpine Decline Embrace the Synthesizer

by A n d re w C h i n

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MMUUSSI ICC | A R T S

REINVENTION IS NOTHING NEW FOR Alpine Decline. Rising from the ashes of Los Angeles quartet Mezzanine Owls, the married duo of guitarist Jonathan Zeitlin and drummer Pauline Mu released three striking discs within a year before moving to Beijing five years ago.

Now firmly established within the capital’s indie scene, the band have gained a member and completely changed tack on their seventh album, Life’s A Gasp!

Describing the record as a “lovehate letter to Beijing,” Zeitlin admits that “as strangers, we’re already seeing everything as metaphors or symbols, already imagining things as caricatures of reality.”

While he’s reluctant to delve specifically into the disc’s lyrical tropes, Zeitlin readily praises Beijing’s music scene as “warm and welcoming.” He recalls discovering kindred spirits at the experimental Zoomin’ Nights events, once held at the late livehouses D-22 and XP. Through those connections, the band formed a tight bond with P.K. 14 frontman Yang Haisong. While Yang was only on production duty for the four albums that Alpine Decline previously recorded in China, he now joins the group on Life’s A Gasp! as their bassist.

The disc ditches the tape-machine experimentation and psychedelic blues of 2014’s Go Big Shadow City in favor of a more live-energy, synth-led sound, and the band fully embrace their Eurorack modular synth system (for music tech enthusiasts, this is a type of synthesizer that creates different sounds by physically connecting patch chords to its separate specialized modules).

While synthesizers have always been part of the group’s musical DNA, Zeitlin admits that “the process of overdubbing layer after layer of synthesizers in the studio is decidedly un-magical.”

“Modular synths let us do all the layers on an album in one live studio take,” he explains. “It’s a setup that is more like a performance on an instrument than some esoteric recording art.”

“We wanted to record all the ‘rock instruments’ live before adding the surrounding modular superstructure.

That combination gave us a unique opportunity to use a live approach to recording while still giving the album an intensely textured landscape. It’s the sound of three very live, warm human bodies beset by very alien, mechanical forces.”

To show off both sides of the album, Alpine Decline will be touring the nation as a trio, stopping off at School Bar on July 2. In select cities (including Beijing) they will also perform a special modular synth show, before heading to North America in October.

“It’s almost impossible to perfectly recreate sounds on the modular, which makes it more exciting to play live,” Zeitlin says.

“When you see people playing guitar and drums while singing songs, you are able to contextualize what they are doing. When we play modular shows, it may take people longer to classify what we are doing and put it in a box.

They may even begin to question the experience itself and whether if we are making music or doing something else altogether.”

Live show: Jul 2, 9pm, RMB60-80, School Bar (see Listings for details); Modular show: Jul 3, 4pm, RMB40, Fruityspace, 13 Meishuguan Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆东街 13 号

Life ’ s A Gasp ! is available at downloads. maybemars.org.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 2 9

ARTS | MUSIC

“We are trying to present music as quietly as possible”

NASHVILLE’S “MOST FUCKED-UP COUNTRY BAND” Have Tennessee’s Lambchop Come of Age?

by A n d re w C h i n

With the nickname ‘Music City,’ Nashville has been at the center of American country music for decades. And for three of those, Kurt Wagner has been writing a unique chapter in his hometown’s musical history as the frontman of Lambchop, the self-proclaimed “most fucked-up country band” in the city.

The band’s rise coincided with an economic and cultural renaissance in Tennessee’s capital, though Wagner admits to feeling conflicted about the changes.

“Having grown up here since the 1960s I had so many dreams about what this city would become: a more welcoming place to live; a place where you could enjoy the same things you find in the bigger, more established cultural centers of the world; a place where you could get a good cup of coffee,” he says.

“These things have come to pass now, but at a cost that I didn't consider at the time. I do welcome change but I also see the city that I loved as being an undiscovered, livable, creative refuge, becoming anything but that. It makes me long for simpler times gone by.”

Lambchop’s early days were also simpler ones. Having started life as a sardonic trio recording self-released cassettes with crude, punkish titles like I’m Fucking Your Daughter, the band were creating ‘alternative country’ before the term even existed. While they maintain a cheeky sense of self-awareness (their third album, Thriller, alluded to Michael Jackson’s mega-selling album despite the group’s paltry sales figures), their sound has since evolved to encompass everything from jazz to avant-garde noise. Lambchop may be the only country band to ever cover Curtis Mayfield, be covered by Talking Heads’ David Byrne and be remixed by English trip-hop act Zero 7.

Given the diversity in both influences and fans, it seems fitting that the band’s inaugural China tour takes them to two vastly different venues – Beijing’s sweaty livehouse Yugong Yishan on June 17 and, two days later, the stately Shanghai Symphony Orchestra Hall, where 3 0 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

they will close the second season of Split Work’s Contemporale series.

“We’ve played a wide variety of venues over the years and we don’t really have a preference as to which is better. They all can be a lot of fun,” Wagner says. “In the end it’s the people who come to the shows that make the moment special. It’s a feeling that is exchanged between the performer and the listener. That can happen anywhere, often in the most humble of circumstances.”

The upcoming shows promise to be a fascinating trip through Lambchop’s discography, from its early steel-guitar driven countrypunk to its recent forays into chamber pop. Although still steeped in the sounds of Americana, the band’s diverse releases have enjoyed particular popularity in Europe.

Wagner is especially proud of the group’s last disc, Mr. M, which was inspired by the death of singer-songwriter and frequent Lambchop collaborator Vic Chesnutt.

“When sound fills the air it is also interpreted in relation to the moments when there is no sound at all,” Wagner explains. “We’ve expanded this idea to our performance in that we are trying to present music as quietly as possible.”

It’s been four years since the release of Mr. M, and Wagner promises that the band’s 12th disc will come out in November. Titled FLOTUS (For Love Often Turns US Still), the album sports the same acronym used by American presidents’ wives (First Lady of the United States). Given that Lambchop’s well-received 2000 disc Nixon was a concept album about the American president of the same name, it would seem that a trope is emerging.

But Wagner doesn’t come across as overtly political. When asked about the impending American election, the typically loquacious singer-songwriter summarizes his hopes simply as “a better day for us all.”

Fri Jun 17, 9pm; RMB120-150; Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

FEM A TUUSRI C E | ARTS

A DECADE IN THE MAKING

English Post-Rock Stalwarts Yndi Halda Are Finally Back

by A n d re w C h i n

For most bands, taking a decade to follow up a debut album is career suicide. But for Yndi Halda, it seems to have worked. Since the March release of Under Summer – their first album since 2006 – the returning British group have been greeted with a hero’s welcome.

Having established themselves as one of England’s leading postrock groups with their violin-driven debut Enjoy Eternal Bliss, Yndi Halda were applauded by critics for eschewing the genre’s cliches in their new album (although, true to post-rock tradition, its four songs clock in at almost an hour).

“It means a great deal to us that after such a long time away, folks are still interested to share our music with us,” says guitarist and singer James Vella, before explaining the significance behind the album title.

“It’s a reference to both summertime – its joy and its beauty – and also what’s ‘under’ the summer [and] what happens beneath: sadness and longing,” he explains. “If we were to pick emotional descriptions of our music, we would use both ‘joy’ and ‘sadness’ equally.”

While Vella admits that “in some respects, the first record sounds very similar all the way through,” Under Summer captures a band more comfortable using their voices. Literally. It features their first songs with lyrics.

“It came naturally,” Vella offers. “We’re having a great time performing it live. We have four singers so we can really dig into the harmonies and the choral lines.”

Despite only having two releases to their name, Yndi Halda have a musical history that stretches back to high school. Vella still has the group’s first cassette, recorded as 15-years-olds in his bedroom (“we graduated from playing covers of Nirvana and Smashing Pumpkins to covers of Radiohead and Jeff Buckley”).

By the time they were finishing high school, Yndi Halda were regularly performing live. Vella laughs about an early gig in France

attended by precisely nobody. “The venue eventually invited in a homeless couple and their dog, and they danced to our live show,” he chuckles.

Now the group plays somewhat more prestigious stages like London’s Barbican (“incredible, but I remember feeling very nervous”). They make their long-awaited return to China with their most extensive tour of the Mainland to date.

“We had a fantastic time, met some lovely people and ate some beautiful food,” Vella recalls of their 2007 shows, before expressing his excitement at returning to Shenzhen, which he visited as a teenager.

Vella admits that since their last China tour, Yndi Halda have become limited by the newfound responsibilities of its members.

With the band spread out across England and all holding down fulltime jobs, Vella admits: “We knew we always wanted to give the band time, since it was so important to us, but where we would find the time was a more difficult question.”

Their respective schedules mean that they can only meet on occasional weekends, but Vella notes: “Even when the band was not fully active, we spent a great deal of time crafting the music, arranging the vocal lines and harmonies, and fixing the production.”

“Some of it flowed together very naturally, but I remember worrying on a few occasions that the record would not happen.”

Energized by Under Summer’s success, Vella is hopeful that Yndi Halda fans won’t have to wait another decade for the group’s next release.

“We still have the remainder of our tour Under Summer to fulfill, but we’ve started playing with some new ideas together,” he says. “The plan is certainly to dedicate real time to songwriting.”

Fri Jun 17, 9pm; RMB120-150; Modernsky Lab, 5-108, Floor B1, Building D, Galaxy SOHO, Dongcheng 东城区朝阳门银河 SOHO D 座 B1 层 5-108

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 3 1

ARTS | B F EO AOTKUSR E

WHEN TRUE LOVE CAME TO CHINA A Modern History of Romance

by Ae l re d D oy l e

What do Chinese people talk about when they talk about love? That’s the ambitious question addressed by the great cultural explainer Lynn Pan in When True Love Came To China.

Pan’s lightness of touch belies impressive research – beginning with the historical.

Modern interpretations of love, she explains, began in early 20th-century China when impatience for reform coalesced. During the May Fourth Movement – which sprang from Chinese fury that, after greatly contributing to victory in the First World War, the nation was humiliated by the Treaty of Versailles – students and intellectuals rose up in protest at the Nationalist Government’s weak response. The movement became, in part, a push for more liberal values, to revive China and make it strong again by learning from Western ideas. And one of these ideas, Pan suggests, was love.

“What were they talking about when they talked about love?” writes Pan. “They were thinking and talking about a liberation from the dark tyranny of ‘feudal’ matchmaking, about free will and individualism and selfdetermination.

“They were condemning inequality and sexual double standards, how unfair it was to demand chastity and constancy of women while tolerating male philandering and polygamy. They were talking about the New Woman and clamoring for a release from Confucian prudery. They were rejecting sanctimoniousness and hypocrisy and calling for a new and superior morality based on love.”

Of course, as Pan writes, this is more about clarifying what love should not be. Vigorous debate on what it actually meant ensued in periodicals and letters, while Western films and books circulated freely. For a while, China had among the most liberal divorce laws in the world, with no-fault divorce available when countries like France still didn’t allow it.

Also during this time, classical literature about love was judged harshly “as being either pornographic or formulaic. The first kind has lovers giving in readily to consuming passion and clandestine sex; while the second, the so-called ‘scholar-beauty’ romance, pairs a talented scholar with a chaste and clever maiden... love is often at first sight and unmarried lovers frequently fall ill from unassuaged longing.”

Pan looks at writers in the decades that followed; the people who influenced ideas about love the most. Their romantic experiences, and the way those experiences bled into their work, is what she finds telling.

“There is love and ‘love.’ The former is 3 2 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

what people actually experience (which it is impossible for another person to know), while the latter is what they say they experience.”

The following are some examples: Take the great Lu Xun, a writer full of modern ideas for his time, who was tricked by his mother into marrying an illiterate woman with bound feet. He treated his wife with a level of disdain that is hard to read about.

Eileen Chang, writing a couple of decades later, wrote with ironic detachment about matters of the heart, but professed herself helpless when she fell for a notorious traitor who worked for the puppet regime in Nanjing during the Japanese occupation.

Even the word used for love was changed in the 20th century.

“When airplanes, corporations, high-rise buildings and other modern things were introduced to China from the West, Chinese names had to be coined for them.

The same goes for peculiarly Western notions.”

Language had to move from the classical si – ‘longing’ – and haose – roughly, ‘lust’ – through qing – closer to ‘sentiment’ or ‘feeling’ – until the classical word ai, compounded as lian'ai, was repurposed to take on the meaning of love in the modern sense.

This questioning of basic concepts was new and intoxicating, though Pan wonders whether this Western concept of love has been fully integrated into Chinese culture, even now.

“Westerners are quick to say what love is and what it is not... they are quick to analyze it too; there is hardly a book on the subject that does not speak of kinds of love,” she writes. “Such concerns became a new frame in which the Chinese learned to place their feelings. Today the Chinese who try to make sense of their feelings in terms of it do so with little grasp that it is a cultural construct, not objective reality but merely one way... of carving up the semantic domain of ‘love.’”

Love in the Western tradition evokes a duality of body and soul – once an unknown concept in China – as well as the idea that the purity of true love can bring one closer to God. Pan argues that, in many ways, Chinese

“They were condemning inequality and sexual double standards, how unfair it was to demand chastity and constancy of women while tolerating male philandering and polygamy” culture has adopted some of the worst characteristics of Western love, rather than the best. It seems a pity to put away outmoded and often cruel concepts of obedience and entrenched sexism, only to adapt new superstitions around sex and love. And this debate has yet to resolve itself.

When True Love Came to China is a superb work of scholarship, and fascinating throughout. We lovingly recommend it.

Lynn Pan's When True Love Came to China (Hong Kong University Press) is available on Amazon.

BOOKS | ARTS

VOICES OF A GENERATION

Alec Ash Impresses With Book About Post-80s Youth

by No e l l e Ma t e e r

If Wish Lanterns: Young Lives in New China is the result of an expat writer spending his twenties in Beijing, then we – expat writers spending our twenties in Beijing – only have one thing to say: Damn.

What are we doing with our lives?

Don’t let our jokes fool you, though – Wish Lanterns is serious.

It’s also funny. And informative. And, well, frankly – everything topnotch literary journalism ought to be.

Wish Lanterns reads like a novel – a good one, at that – but is in fact based on years of intensive reporting. Author Alec Ash, whom you may recognize from the website and self-described ‘writers’ colony’ The Anthill, follows six Chinese youths of the post-80s generation. The six represent a diversity of perspectives – more or less. (We include that final caveat because this is one book, and one huge country. Also, all are educated urban dwellers.)

There’s Fred, a midlevel Party official’s daughter who studies political theory at Peking University, through whom Ash discusses recent Chinese politics. There’s Mia, a rebellious Urumqi native working her way up in the world of fashion in Beijing, through whom Ash discusses the increasing number of high-powered careerwomen in China. Via Lucifer, a musician, we learn about the arts and pop culture. Xiaoxiao and Dahai’s romance teaches us about love and marriage, and Snail’s journey from Anhui to Beijing sheds light on China’s rapid urbanization.

Ash weaves in and out of their stories, and the reader is left with not only an enjoyable read, but a wide-reaching potpourri of China knowledge. The way the scenes shift from character to character may remind Westerners of Girls or Sex and the City – or China watchers of Evan Osnos’ Age of Ambition, a National Book Awardwinning title and shimmering example of China-based literary nonfiction.

Peppered throughout, like signposts to a larger China narrative, are stories that news junkies will recognize from recent years: The city dwellers moving into tiny underground apartments to save on rent; Xi Jinping’s appointment as President in 2012; and the advent of military-style boot camps designed to cure young men of their Internet addictions. Although these stories have been reported again and again, Ash breathes new life into them by framing them within the context of his subjects’ lives.

A note on the nebulous territory of English-language ‘China books’: The genre can be problematic, with the worst examples falling into the ‘White Dudes Explain China’ canon that can oversimplify, or worse patronize towards, this diverse country. But by focusing in-depth on his subjects, Ash avoids making sweeping statements about China and lets them tell their own stories. His tone is neither condescending nor patronizing; it is humanizing.

There’s an extra charm to reading Wish Lanterns as a Beijinger, and we feel twinges of excitement when we recognize places in the book from our own lives: ‘a Moroccan rum bar on Fuxue Hutong,’ for example, and the ‘Popular livehouse Yugong Yishan.’

At times, Ash’s brand of literary journalism (hell, all literary journalism) straddles the line between the genuinely moving and the overly sentimental. We finished this book feeling a cathartic sense of closure, which might be somewhat unjustified, given that the narratives of the book’s subjects are still unfolding as we write this.

In other words, we may have closed the book, but the book is far from closed.

Wish Lanterns: Young Lives in New China (Picador) is out June 2 via Amazon UK. Disclaimer: Alec Ash has previously contributed to That ’ s Beijing .

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A R T S | T HE AT ER

MY FAIR LADY

Lady Doolittle Steps Out on the Town

by Zo ey Z h a

No musical adaptation of George Bernard Shaw’s Pygmalion has been as hallowed as My Fair Lady. The Broadway production (which debuted in 1956 with award-winning actors Rex Harrison and Julie Andrews) set a then-record for the longest theatrical run in history. Then, a 1964 film adaptation starring Audrey Hepburn racked up eight Oscars, including Best Film.

Still a stage favorite, a touring production of this classic comes to Beijing in June.

Stepping into the lead role made famous by

Andrews and Hepburn is California’s Aurora Florence, perhaps one of the youngest Eliza Doolittles to take to the stage.

“Something I love about Hepburn and Andrews’ interpretations of Eliza is how much spunk and passion they both brought,” she says. “I think it is one of the reasons audiences love Eliza so much.”

The show’s producers are clearly confident in Florence’s ability to live up to the history of the iconic role. They have even created a replica of Hepburn’s dress for the

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3 4 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

famous scene at the famous Royal Ascot horse race.

This Broadway revival has won wide acclaim on its tour thus far. After touring America and the Republic of Korea, the show arrives in Beijing as part of a six-city China tour.

Jun 9-19, 7.30pm (2.30pm matinees on June 9, 10 and 18);

RMB99-1280; Beijing Tianqiao Performing Arts Center, Building 9, Tianqiao Nandajie, Xicheng 西城区天桥南大街 9 号楼天桥 艺术中心 (en.damai.cn)

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A D V E R T OF RE IAATLU R| ET |R A R VE TS L

FORTY-SIX DAYS TO CREATE AN UNPRECEDENTED JOURNEY Have you ever thought about what you could achieve in 46 days?

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Maybe, you’d switch up your unhealthy schedule and readjust your body clock. Maybe, you’d lose some weight through exercise and diet. Maybe you’d enjoy 46 classic movies or finish some books. Maybe you’d improve your swimming or get to know your body better through yoga.

All of these can happen on board the Costa Atlantic. And while these self-improvements take place, you can also visit two continents, nine nations, and 13 islands.

From November 30, 2016, Caissa Touristic will take you on a 46-day journey to see the untouched beauty of the South Pacific, exploring places not accessible by plane. Soon you will know islands which you’d never heard of before, such as Honiara, Pago Pago and Rabaul.

Ignoring Australia and New Zealand – which most people are familiar with – there are also many mysterious island nations in the vast South Pacific Ocean. They are as beautiful as paradise, from the largest (Papua New Guinea) to the smallest (Nauru), and boast the purest island views and traditional cultures.

Saipan, for example, is endowed with natural beauty and is a divers’ favorite; Honiara in the Solomon Islands is full of poetry; Port Vila in Vanuatu is a place where Melanesians have been living for thousands of years; Fiji, a filming location for Where Are We Going, Dad?, has shown its charm on TV; Tahiti is a paradise that will amaze you with its beauty; Nukualofa in the Kingdom of Tonga has a leisurely pace of life that shows you the value of simplicity and sincerity; Noumea in New Caledonia is both vibrant and peaceful; and Moresby Port, with its mountains and rivers, is full of trees and beautiful flowers.

Do you dare to abandon the complexity and fickleness of the modern world, shut off your phone and stay with yourself for 46 days? Are you ready to spend 46 days in the company of family or friends, or use the time to filter out vanity and allow yourself to undergo changes, big or small? Forty-six days is not long, but it is enough for you to see this beautiful ocean. Forty-six days is not short either, so there is enough time to fulfill the dream of navigating the seas you had as a child.

Forget the tediousness of work and endless triviality – sail with Caissa Touristic on the vast ocean like the great explorers of old, and wait for the next untouched island to appear from over the horizon. Say goodbye to airplanes and trains, and sail off into the vast and mysterious ocean. Caissa Touristic invites you to take this unprecedented journey together.

For more information visit www.caissa.com.cn or call 6598 3500 ext 3059

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 3 5

Many, if not all, of China’s 55 recognized ethnic minority groups have found their way to Beijing in one form or another. Some have long histories in the city, while others arrived recently in search of better lives; some have neighborhoods to maintain, while others hold on quietly to identities that they consider barely different from those around them. Beijing may still be about 96 percent Han, but look closely and it’s not quite as homogenous as it first seems.

For this month’s cover story we seek out individuals from the city’s three largest non-Han groups: Manchu, Hui and Mongol, which between them make up more than four-fifths of Beijing’s ethnic minority population. Their histories and cultures are vastly different and, perhaps more interestingly, all three groups have unique ways of protecting and reconciling their identities in a rapidly changing city.

Life can be difficult for minorities in Beijing. Despite the development of affirmative action (including bonus gaokao points, tax breaks and exemption from the one-child policy before it was abolished), many from minority groups will face some type of discrimination in their lives. Currently, only 20 percent of Beijing’s minority population earns more than the city’s average salary.

Yet, those we speak to rarely complain. Instead, most express muted optimism about how their identity fits into the wider context of life in the capital. The challenges they face are often ones shared by people of all ethnicities in the country – it seems modernity can pose as much of a threat to preserving identities in today’s China as being outnumbered does.

Holding on to Ethnic Identity in a Changing Beijing

COVER STORY

COVER STORY

Facing

The oldest of more than 60 mosques in Beijing, Niujie has stood on this spot – facing West to Mecca – since

Mecca

996. It still serves as the nucleus of the Hui community, but it also hopes

from Oxen street

to enlighten outsiders and tourists (including the visiting heads of Islamic countries who are often brought here to pray). Preserving religious identity in modern-day Beijing can be challenging, explains Jin Yinghui, who is on duty at the Mosque’s museum.

“The Muslim community doesn’t do

words by Oscar Holland images by Holly Li

enough positive propaganda,” she says, showing us the museum’s collection of scrolls and ancient artefacts. “In other provinces like Yunnan and Ningxia, schools have classes for people to learn about minority culture. But here

Late afternoon sun leaks over the curved roof of Beijing’s Niujie Mosque

portunity to learn about Islam.”

as worshippers gather in the courtyard.

As the afternoon’s prayers conclude,

They greet each other with handshakes

a group of men in traditional white caps

and utterances of “salam,” before re-

emerge from the Mosque and stand

moving their shoes to enter the main

outside chatting. They tell us their

prayer hall.

aspirations – ones shared by Muslims

Friday is traditionally the busiest

everywhere: teaching their children

time of the week here. But the most im-

Arabic and visiting Mecca on Hajj. All

portant of the day’s prayers (Jumu’ah)

seem bound by a common identity, re-

has already passed, and only a smat-

gardless of their differing backgrounds.

tering of worshippers trickle into the

“I am from Xinjiang, he is from

1,000-person hall. Among them is a

Qinghai and he is from Beijing,” says one

group of young Uyghurs visiting from

man. “But when Muslims get together

Xinjiang, though most here are of the

we become friendly immediately.”

Hui ethnic minority – a group of pre-

The Beijinger among them is an

dominantly Sunni Muslims who make

82-year-old who only reveals his sur-

up less than 2 percent of Beijing’s

name – Mr. Ban. He has seen countless

population.

changes in the district over the decades,

Often the descendants of nobles,

H

in Beijing, people don’t get much op-

most notably in its ethnic makeup.

scholars or traders who arrived in

“The majority here used to be Hui,

China from the Silk Road during the

with a few Han,” he explains. “But some

Tang dynasty (618–907), the Hui people

Huis left and there was gentrification.”

live mostly in China’s central plain or

Demographics in Niujie have cer-

northwestern provinces. But a perma-

tainly altered in recent years, but the

nent Hui population has resided in the

area is still home to approximately

capital since the 10th century, when the

24,000 Hui people, roughly one-tenth

Niujie Mosque was first built.

of Beijing’s Hui community. None of

U

I

the city’s other minority groups have distinct ethnic neighborhoods, but this ancient enclave lives on. And despite the fact that – as Mr. Ban alludes – the wider district is now almost 80 percent Han, the area immediately around the mosque is still majority Muslim, with

38

回

族

Beijinger Mr. Ban, 82, who attends the Niujie Mosque in the heart of Beijing's Hui district

39

COVER STORY

Huis accounting for 54 percent of the

the gentrification, public buildings

neighborhood’s population.

took on flourishes of Islamic architec-

The relationship between gen-

ture – green domes and ornate para-

trification and ethnicity in Niujie is

pets – though they are for the benefit

complicated. Having spent over RMB10

of tourists as well as residents. The local

million renovating the mosque, Beijing’s

government is quick to remind the com-

municipal government then proceeded

munity of its role in improving living

to rehouse thousands of residents in

standards here – murals boast of recent

the 1990s. Still, studies suggest that

developments in infrastructure and

90 percent of the (mostly Hui) families

services. But this has always been an

who were displaced by the renovation

important point of trade for Beijing’s

returned to the district upon its comple-

Muslims. Literally meaning ‘Oxen

tion. Their new homes tower over the

Street,’ Niujie’s name likely resulted

community; apartment buildings are

from the halal meat trade, which has

embellished with Muslim symbols and

long thrived here. (Legend suggests

painted in shades of white and green –

that it was originally called ‘Liujie’

colors often associated with Islam.

– ‘Pomegranate Street’ – because the

The district’s main street (which, like the wider area, is also called Niujie) has undergone transformation too. During

Hui community once grew pomegranate trees in the area.)

Food is still central to the district’s commerce. A study – albeit one from 2002 – found that the restaurant street running east from Niujie sold around 6,000 kilograms of beef and mutton every day.

Other roads surrounding the Mosque

40

Bottom left: Headscarves on display at

are lined with Islamic supermarkets and

one of Beijing's Muslim stores

butchers preparing meat in accordance

Below: Jin Yinghui, who works at Niujie

with religious law. Hui and Uyghur peo-

Mosque's museum

ple come here from across the city to

Opposite page: Worshippers in the

shop, says the owner of a Halal butcher

mosque's main prayer hall

shop, Wu.

“We raise cattle ourselves,” she explains. “We buy the cows from Inner Mongolia, and we have a farm in Daxing. We raise them, kill them and then sell them here at Niujie.

“The Mosque is virtually the only place for Hui gatherings in the neighborhood,” she continues, before rebuffing our suggestion that young people may be less interested in religion. “Both young and old people go to the Mosque. Age does not make a difference.

Children normally start going there once they reach the age of 8.”

Across the road we find an Islamic store selling everything from headscarves and prayer mats to a digital clock board showing the exact times of the day’s prayers. A line of mugs declares solidarity with Palestine.

“Tourists sometimes visit but they are Muslims too,” explains Fatuma, who owns the store with her husband. “People who come here are generally Muslims. There are Han customers, though not many. We are busy on Fridays. Because of Jumu’ah, many people will go to the Mosque for prayers.”

It seems that Fatuma is too busy to speak with us, so we leave her as she tapes up boxes for delivery. The sun sets over Niujie and the district’s restaurants begin to fill up. They serve Chinese culinary classics alongside traditional Islamic food, which seems fitting in a place where architecture, ethnicity and culture now fuse Hui identity with its Han surroundings.

Additional reporting by Emma Huang

"The majority here used to be Hui, with a few Han. But some Huis left and there was gentrification"

41

about half of the population living in Liaoning province.

There are over 10 million Manchus living in China, with Beijing home to over 100,000 of them. But it is hard to pinpoint the exact number, as many ethnic Manchus choose to officially identify as Han, due to the stigma of being associated with imperialism in post-Qing China.

Current popular opinion dictates that Manchus have effectively been as-

The Last Emperors words by Dominique Wong images by Holly Li

similated into the Han population, with “I have a Manchu name. If you were

their language all but dead. But what

Chinese, you’d be able to tell right

do Beijing’s Manchus think of this as-

away,” Fucha Danqing says matter-of-

sertion? And what does it mean to be

factly.

Manchu in today’s China?

Painter, teacher, laobejing… Fucha

We meet Fucha Danqing for tea on a

Danqing has many titles, including, as

hot, muggy day in April. It’s a national

his name clearly points out, Manchu.

holiday – the perfect opportunity for

A name is a calling card but holds

him to take a break from his usual soli-

particular significance for Manchus,

tary days painting hutong landscapes

the fourth-largest ethnic minority in

– and yet he still wants to talk shop.

China. The past century has seen both

But our feature is about your ethnic

denial of ancestry and, more recently,

identity and the Manchu community in

reclamation of it.

Beijing, we explain.

Known as the last imperial rulers

“I don’t see it as being that interest-

of China, Manchus ruled as the Qing

ing. I feel like painting is a better topic,”

dynasty for over 250 years, until 1912.

he offers.

They are descendants of the Jurchen

He eventually answers our questions,

tribe, which itself established the Jin

because, as Fucha explains: “Every

dynasty (1115-1234). Originally from

Manchu has the responsibility to pre-

Northeast China, Manchus are now

serve our culture.”

spread throughout the country with

And so Fucha tells us about his people’s history as well as his own ancestry.

“My family members are all Manchu. But our genealogy book is lost, so I don’t know what clan my ancestors belonged to.”

While proud of his background, it's clear that ethnicity isn't a defining factor. Rather, Fucha strives to exist outside of his ethnic origin. He explains: “I don’t feel different because of it. Most of my friends are Han. I think that preserving ethnic identity is good because it encourages cultural diversity. But I don’t want to depend on [affirmative action] policies giving us advantage – I want to rely on my own efforts.”

When asked whether he feels the need to marry another Manchu, Fucha replies: “I used to think I would, but I realized it’s too hard. Cases like my parents are

L-R: Yehenala Yutong wears traditional Manchu dress in his art studio; Guan Junmin displays traditional Manchu-style pipes and tobacco; artist Fucha Danqing paints a hutong landscape

42

Rare, but not unheard of, as we discover when we meet Fucha Nergi

instance – while Manchu groups meet regularly in Beijing to educate those who are interested.

(no relation to Fucha Danqing). Both Nergi and her husband are Manchu

Culture enthusiast Fu Decheng organizes weekly events for local

and together they are awaiting the birth of their first child. “My husband

Manchus with his friends. Regular events include lectures about Manchu

can speak a little Manchu language, but I think our child will definitely

society, archery, social get-togethers and festival celebrations such as the

be able to,” she tells us.

Banjin Festival. Commemorated on the 13th day of the 10th month in the

The founder of an online Manchu language group, Nergi is a keen

lunar calendar, the holiday celebrates the so-called “birth of Manchu.”

advocate of Manchu learning. One of her ancestors was a general during

We meet Fu at a gathering held at his friend's studio. A large paint-

the reign of Nurhaci, the Jurchen chieftain who united various tribes

ing of Qianlong Emperor, a ruler of the Qing dynasty during its most

and is generally credited with establishing the language’s written script.

prosperous era, looks down upon the group serenely as they laugh and

Nergi began teaching written Manchu via QQ two years ago. “It started

share stories.

small, with just a few Manchu friends, but others became interested so

Fu says: “Every year we celebrate Banjin, and if there are events or

I opened it up to more people. I thought it was necessary to help others

exhibitions about Manchus, we will all visit them together. Sometimes

embrace their heritage and preserve the language.”

we even go to Northeast China to take part in local festivals.”

Her students come from all around the world and are aged from 15 to

The group admits that the dilution of particular traditions is in-

over 50, she says. “The majority of my students have a strong sense of

evitable, referencing the large number of Manchus who adopted Han

ethnic identity. They feel it would be a shame not to learn the language

names in the 20th century due to social stigmas, such as being seen as

of their own ethnic group.”

‘imperialists.’ “But now many parents have changed their children’s

Recent years have seen a Manchu-language revival, with regional

names back to their original ones,” Fu adds.

governments endorsing classes, and small groups of enthusiasts pop-

“Many people assume that Manchu is now a part of Han but to us,

ping up around the country. But it’s a struggle cultivating a language

there are huge differences, in terms of customs, languages and so on,”

whose use is more academic than practical.

he continues.

Nergi sees the problems as two-fold due to the lack of suitable locations and the low-quality of teachers.

“Some of the teachers aren’t professional; they make mistakes,” she laments, although this is unsurprising given how few native Manchu

These sentiments are echoed by all of the people we speak to. Teacher Nergi tells us: “I see our soft culture as being quite different to Han – we view things differently. We tend to be more fair and don’t like to pick on the underdog.”

speakers remain – 10, according to UNESCO data. (Nergi was lucky to

Guo Yan, a passionate and earnest young man at Fu's gathering, says:

be taught by a man whose teachers shared tutors with the last emperor

“Assimilation is a natural process. But cultural heritage must be pro-

Puyi.)

tected. This shouldn’t be hard because there are always people who

Not everyone views language as the cornerstone of culture. For ex-

are interested in it.”

ample, Fucha, the artist, says: “Language isn’t the most important form

As if to reiterate the point, the group cheerfully dresses up in tra-

of cultural heritage. Even in the Qing dynasty, people didn’t speak it. It

ditional Manchu clothing for our photo shoot. Posing nobly, they are

was a tool for communication, but now it’s mainly used for cultural and

wearing their history on their sleeves, although they are careful not to

historical studies. Loss of language doesn’t mean the disappearance of

let it suffocate them.

Manchu – the blood is still there.”

Manchu culture lives on in other ways. Elements of it are present in Chinese society today – the qipao derives from Manchu gowns, for

COVER STORY

rare – most of my aunts and uncles have married non-Manchus.”

“We choose to live in the present, instead of in the glory of our ancestors,” Fu says pragmatically.

Additional reporting by Emma Huang

43

COVER STORY

MO è’™

Doctor Bao Zexuan sits in his friend's Mongol food shop 44

ONGOL 古

族

In the absence of the real thing, Mongols have taken

Beijing, and are recognized by the code ‘MG’ on their citi-

to projecting HD video footage of their beloved grassland

zen IDs. In total, there are over 5.9 million on the Chinese

onto the walls of Beijing.

Mainland – roughly twice the number living in Mongolia

We’re at Ba Yin Hao Ri Wa, a palatial Mongolian restau-

(the country) proper.

rant, and this is the second such video projection we’ve

Over two-thirds of Mongols in China are based in Inner

seen this week. Ultra-saturated greens and blues dance

Mongolia, where they make up 17 percent of the popu-

along the 10-foot-tall screen. Horses gallop across empty

lation. That percentage drops to 8 percent in Hohhot.

fields. Wind ripples through stalks of wheat. Grassy hills

Mongols, after all, are traditionally countryside dwellers.

stretch into the distance.

It’s Mongolian grassland porn in the middle of Beijing’s Fengtai district. Movie projector or not, every Mongolian

“I still feel considerably intimate with the grassland,” says Bao. “Whenever I returned to my hometown after being in the city for high school, I’d cry.”

restaurant we visit has some way of showing off Northern

For centuries, Mongols have been nomads, the wind-

landscapes. There are murals, large-scale photographs

swept grassland their home. Many have been herdsmen,

and tapestries. And every Mongol we speak to in Beijing

keeping charge of cattle or sheep. The yurts (large, circular

brings them up, too.

white tents) that we associate with the group are easily

“The grassland is extremely important in shaping Mongols’ lifestyles and personalities,” says Bao Zexuan, a

compactable – designed for the traveling lifestyles their inhabitants live.

doctor and ethnic Mongol who grew up on the grassland of

Bao speaks to us from a small stool in his friend’s

China’s Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. “Its vastness

Mongolian food shop inside Chongwenmen’s massive Inner

makes Mongolians more straightforward and tolerant.”

Mongolia Hotel. A traditional Mongolian band plays in

Bao was raised in a Mongolian-speaking home, but later

the lobby. Here in the shop, food surrounds us. There are

moved to the provincial capital of Hohhot for school. And

milk candies, wheat crackers and strong baijius. At the

while his Mandarin is flawless today, he came to Beijing

grocery’s center is a series of industrial-sized refrigerators

for university with a thick accent.

containing Mongolian beef and lamb straight from the

Mongols are the third-most-populous minority group in

grassland – the store’s most popular items.

The Original Organic Lifestyle words by

Noelle Mateer

images by

Holly Li

45

Clockwise from top left: a visitor to Chongwenmen's Inner Mongolia Hotel looks at Mongolian script; a woman in traditional dress plays as part of a Mongol musical trio; the manager of Ba Yin Hao Ri Wa sits in his restaurant; a bronze pot holds a mixture of millet and milk

46

COVER STORY

"I go to the grassland every year, but I know that I can’t stay there forever" Mongolian food is typically broken

“I mainly eat red meat,” says Bao,

down into three categories. There’s

who tries to cook traditional Mongolian

“white food,” which consists of dairy

food whenever he’s not busy working.

products, or anything including dairy;

(No amount of work, though, keeps him

“red food,” which stands for meat; and

from drinking Mongolian milk tea, he

wine. Mongolians even combine the first

adds.) De also has a "red food"-heavy

and the latter with naijiu (‘milk wine’).

diet, mostly from his frequent visits to

“When my parents were young, they

Beijing Mongolian restaurants. He raves

still raised cattle on the grassland,”

to us about his chef friend’s yangrou shu-

says De Bulang, a Hohhot-born Mongol

mai (lamb dumplings).

also based in Beijing. “Sheep in Hohhot

These shumai are remnants of Mongol

eat grass, so they are cleaner and more

culture in a city of concrete hutongs far,

tender.”

far away from the grassland. And yet

One could call Mongolian cuisine the

even the word 'hutong' is derived from

original organic; free-range beef before

Mongolian, having first appeared during

it was cool. Indeed, Mongol eating prac-

the Mongol-ruled Yuan dynasty. Beijing

tices are both clean and eco-friendly. De

is, as that fact ought to demonstrate, a

points to a Mongol expression as evi-

city profoundly marked by Mongol in-

dence: “If you do not scatter the stones,

fluence.

the devil will come out.”

It’s been a while since the Mongols’

“Scatter the stones” essentially means

13th century invasion of Zhongyuan (lit-

“clean up after yourself” – Mongols tra-

erally ‘central plain’ – areas south of the

ditionally believed that if they failed to

Great Wall) but Kublai Khan’s presence

do so when moving from one settlement

lingers. Khan ordered the construction

to the next (read: if they polluted), they’d

of the oft-visited Kunming Lake at the

have bad luck. This eco-consciousness

Summer Palace, and his empire also con-

finds its way into Mongolian cuisine.

nected the Grand Canal to the Forbidden

“Traditionally, before they killed the

City.

cattle, Mongolians would check the cal-

Throughout the Yuan Dynasty, the

endar to see if it was a suitable date for

Khans and their successors took on

killing,” says the manager of the afore-

the customs of Beijing. Many ditched

mentioned restaurant, sounding an aw-

Mongolian in favor of Mandarin, and

ful lot like an organic farmer in 2016.

dropped their nomadic ways altogether.

“Even today, the sheep are only killed in

Maybe it’s fitting, then, that Mongols are

certain seasons when they do not have

doing the same thing today.

a certain smell.”

Most Mongols in Beijing, while fierce-

In a food industry that’s increasingly

ly proud of Inner Mongolia’s grassland,

mechanical and processed – the slow,

consider leaving them behind as a neces-

careful way Mongols raise their cat-

sary sacrifice for the greater economic

tle is a precious rarity. The restaurant

opportunities of the city. The ones we

manager is “furious” about how food is

speak to, at least, say they wouldn’t

mass-produced in today’s China, call-

trade their current lives for the old days,

ing large-scale producers “immoral.” He

though they’re all university-educated

does not hold his tongue.

white-collar workers.

“All ethnic groups have their food cul-

“I go to the grassland every year,” says

ture, but food is particularly important

the restaurant manager. “But I know that

for Mongols,” he says.

I can’t stay there forever.”

Both De and Bao agree, saying that in

The HD scenes of grazing cattle

the absence of grassland in Beijing, they

behind him will have to suffice.

use food to connect with their culture.

Additional reporting by Emma Huang

47

EAT & DRINK G RAPEV IN E

S N AC KS A N D T H E C I T Y

Last month, my best friend from the States visited me in Beijing.

Ironically, she is Chinese. I am American. We live in each other’s capitals. So 2016, I know. The global economy, I know. Technology shrinking the communication gap, I know.

Our friendship is a Long Essay About Intercultural Relations on a Micro-Scale just waiting to be written.

It’s also a lot of drinking.

This culminated on the night of her 25th birthday. I grabbed some birthday slices from Rager Pie, as well as prosciutto and “champagne” from Chez Gerard (it was only 60 kuai for the bottle, hence the quotation marks) and brought them to Houhai, where we rented a paddle boat and bobbed around at sunset, saying the sorts of things longtime friends say to each other after a while apart, which are predominately variants of “REMEMBER THAT TIME YOU MADE OUT WITH TOM” and “OMG I FORGOT ABOUT CHLOE, WHAT A BITCH.” It was a night that, unlike Chloe, I will never forget.

Everywhere we went, Luxin was treated like a princess, and I was grateful to Beijing’s splendid dining scene. Am I waxing too lyrical? Nah. TRB Bites gave us a free cake with “Happy Birthday” written in icing! The Distillery coordinated a bar-wide singalong for her birthday! The Tiki Bungalow has a drink called the Macadamia Nut Chi-Chi! (That last one isn’t related to Luxin’s birthday at all. It’s just a dope cocktail.)

The takeaway is this: Beijing is a great city to eat and drink in. The minute you begin to think otherwise, you’re doing something wrong. If you need inspiration, though, I write food reviews. They’re as follows.

(Heh.) Noelle Mateer 4 8 J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

O F F T H E B E AT E N P L AT E

Lactose-intolerance is a cruel affliction that cuts one off from all manner of dishes, ranging from the decadent (cream puffs!) to the healthy (yogurt!). Yet, it’s not as high-profile as gluten intolerance, or vegetarianism. It is the forgotten food allergy, despite the fact that high rates of Chinese people suffer from it. That’s why Yeyo is so rare, and also so welcome. The fluffy, creamy yogurt is made from coconut milk, which means it’s both dairy-free and vegan.

You can purchase it plain or with mix-in compotes. Flavors include cardamomspiced papaya and sea-salt caramel.

The result is so tasty, we'd venture to say it's better than dairy yogurt. NM Yeyo Yogurt, for more information or to

purchase, add their Wechat: yeyo-yogurt

H E A D -TO - H E A D / C H I L I S AU C E S

VER SUS Laoganma

Tantan Xiang

老干妈豆豉辣椒酱 RMB7.9

坛坛香剁辣椒酱 RMB10

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Is that our grandma on the label? Whoever she is, we already feel loyal to her.

Simply removing the lid on this thing releases a strong, wafting scent of pickle.

INITIAL BITE

Not as spicy as we’d imagined – we even pick up notes of honey. Perhaps we shouldn’t be surprised that grandma is sweet.

Gentle, mild – perhaps too gentle and mild.

OVERALL

An aggressive salty-sour-spicy flavor trio whacks our taste buds. And then it lingers.

Consider our palettes thoroughly cleansed.

VERDICT

While we don’t recommend having either of these on plain bread (as we did for this taste test), both are solid sauces. We especially appreciate, though, that Tantan Xiang woke us right up. And that is exactly what we want in a spicy sauce. NM

Ed i t e d by No e l l e Ma t e e r /

BA RT I SA N S

T H E Y SA I D I T, W E R E A D I T

Starbucks Ever wondered what kids these days think of some of Beijing’s long-standing foodand-drink establishments? To give you an idea, we’ve handpicked and translated some comments from popular ratings site dianping.com. This month: the massive two-story Starbucks in Taikooli.

It’s said to be the flagship store, but the service here isn’t as good as other random Starbucks stores.

I love, love, love the caramel macchiato!

This month, we head to CRAFT at Crowne Plaza Beijing Lido to chat with Executive Chef Stephane Laurens and Restaurant Manager Nina He about everybody’s favorite things in the summer: burgers and beer.

I was so lucky to come across singing inside the cafe: A boy sang warm love songs with a delicate, gentle voice. Why go to a bar when Starbucks also has fascinating people?

N E WS B I T E

This Frozen Piggy Went to Market

June is the month of pork floods. Seriously – last month, Beijing began releasing 3.05 million kilograms of pork from its emergency pork reserves, which are apparently a thing, and will continue to release them until July 4. (No, “releasing” pork does not equal live pigs being set free. Beijing’s emergency stash is frozen.)

Why? Pork prices have been going up ever since Chinese New Year, sometimes by as much as 50 percent from month to month. China’s economists believe this new measure will relieve pressure on the tight pork market. The government has begun subsidizing pork to encourage sellers to offer the meat at lower prices. And it will also encourage, for lack of better words, more slaughter. NM

PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

The workers are arrogant.

Their boss needs to tell them to leave, go home and learn how to speak properly to customers.

b j e d i t o r @ u r b a n a t o m y. c o m

— So, what’s the deal with the new burgers?

Stephane: We have five new burgers, all with different elements and sauces. One is a veggie burger for our vegetarian friends. We’re working on making the buns extra exciting – different flavors, different colors. Then we’ll pair the burgers with our beer. And don’t forget the traditional French fries!

—Can you tell us about the beers?

Nina: The beer we have to go with the burgers is Kentucky brand, from the US. We have three kinds: the Kentucky Kolsch, the Kentucky Ale and the Kentucky IPA. S: For the time being, we’ll serve our burgers with the large selection of beer that we have here. And we are going to have new beers, coming soon.

N: We’re going to have draft beer, maybe next month!

—Can you tell us which new beers?

S: No! [Laughs].

—Which is your favorite burger?

S: The salmon burger – that will be pretty good. It won’t be very heavy, but it will be rich in flavor.

—Which is your favorite beer?

N: I recommend the Kentucky Ale. —Anything else you recommend for the summer?

N: We’ll also have iced tea, starting in June – fruitflavored iced tea. We have peach, strawberry, blueberry and mango, all sweet.

—Last question: Why do people eat burgers in the summertime?

S: You come with your family or with your friends, and it’s fun. It’s social. It’s simple, but at the same time it can be very modern, very creative.

CRAFT, Crowne Plaza Beijing Lido, 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将

台路 6 号 (6437 3388)

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 4 9

B EI X INQI AO-V THE STREE TS AROUND BEIXINQIAO ARE E X P L O D I N G W I T H N E W O P E N I N G S. H E R E IS YOUR GUIDE TO ITS HU TONG H A NGOU TS

Peiping Machine Brewing Peiping is part brewery, part sharer of others’ brews, all temple to the gods of beer. The airy, high-ceilinged former factory has been packed ever since it opened. All because Beijingers love their beer.

Peiping makes its own brews – a sweet wheat beer is our favorite – but perhaps more importantly, it serves craft varieties from breweries around the country.

There’s Slow Boat, of course, and soon Jing-A, but also brands from outside Beijing – ones you may recognize from beer festivals but that you’ve never seen on a menu before.

We enjoy brews from Chengdu, Wuhan and Nanjing – we suggest you get a flight for maximum sampling. As such, Peiping is a machine of Chinese beer education (beerducation?) so cue the news stories on China’s blossoming craft beer scene. (“More Than Just Tsingtao” – we can imagine the headline now.)

There’s also a great toilet here, which is no small feat for Fangjia Hutong. It’s so great that we recently referred to Peiping Machine, lovingly, as Peepeeing Machine. We mean this in the most respectful of ways.

Daily, 5pm-2am; E101, 46 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同 46号院E101 (6401 1572)

5 0 J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Obsession The first indication that Obsession is a quirky dinner spot is its location. The bistro is sandwiched between The Tiki Bungalow and Knights and Merchants, aka ‘That Place With All The Sword Fights Outside.’ (Seriously, as a side note, do check out Knights and Merchants – they’ll let you try on armor.)

The next indication is the decor: a cerulean wall color most-often associated with gaudy 1980s eyeshadows, plus a school of silver sperm fish along the walls.

The third indication is the spalike soundtrack of ocean sounds.

Altogether, it’s a funny, comfortable and quirky place to grab a bite before moving on to headier booze at Tiki. Food is casual Western (think pastas, toast with smoked salmon, steaks) at mostly reasonable prices, averaging between RMB50-60 per dish.

Granted, perhaps you’d rather go somewhere we describe as ‘topnotch’ or, say, ‘good,’ rather than ‘quirky.’ Fair enough. But if there’s one thing we like more than Obsession's steaks, it’s what it represents: That no matter your obsession, the hutongs are the place for you.

Daily, 6.30pm-2am; 34 Jiaodaokou Bei Santiao, Dongcheng 东城区交道口三条34号

OL U T ION

FE AT URE | E AT & DRINK

by No e l l e Ma t e e r, i m a g e s by Ho l l y L i

Vagabond Hutong bottle shops are the purview of Fangjia Hutong – or so we thought. Vagabond has taken the El Nido template (which, if you’re unfamiliar, equals fridges of beer bottles + shabby-chic hutong space + happy hour deals) and replicated it a few hutongs south on Jiaodaokao Beiertiao.

Vagabond has some of the better-stocked fridges in town – note fridges, plural – which include cold Belgians, Brits and Americans. There’s also a bar serving basic mixed drinks. It is the El Nido equation, + cocktails.

Vagabond’s concept is not new. But it is good timing – we’ve noticed that Queenie’s, the newly opened sandwich shop around the corner, has had scores of laowai drinking beer on its front steps ever since the weather warmed in April. Bar snacks here are minimal – we had the fried chicken – so if you’re hungry, maybe Queenie’s is your best bet. Or maybe Café de la Poste across the street. Or maybe the Yonghegong Dajie noodle place we always end up at after Café. Let’s just say you have options.

While not worth traveling to, Vagabond’s buy-one-getone beer happy hour is a solid choice. Our only complaint is the Bon Jovi concert film projected on the wall. (Sorry, JBJ. You don’t make for relaxing beer music.) A DJ table hints at better beats to come.

Mon-Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 2pm-2am; 4 Jiaodoukou Beiertiao,

Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区雍和宫大街交道口北二条4号 (5719 5030)

Flow Brew Taproom

BigSmall Coffee

The beers that flow at Flow aren’t just Flow – there are some that are Slow. Slow Boat that is. (More slick rhymes where that came from, folks. Anyway, back to the issue at hand: beer.)

Flow’s teeny space (just across from Vagabond, see above) serves three varieties of its own beer, plus Slow Boat. While Flow’s are worth trying – support your local businesses! – Slow Boat’s are better in taste and quality. But that doesn’t matter. Flow is a lovely, tuckedaway hutong spot for drinking, no matter which kind of beer you're after. The intimate setting ensures speedy service, and barmen are more than happy to hand over samples.

What we find most important about its opening, though, is, well… its opening. Beijing is beer-obsessed, and this is further proof. Seriously, is there a block anywhere within the Second Ring nowadays that hasn’t played host to a craft brewery?

Answer: yes, we’re exaggerating. Also, for the record, we’re not complaining about the amount of breweries. That would be ridiculous.

How do you know your area’s made it? There’s a thirdwave coffee shop on the corner. BigSmall Coffee is that third-wave coffee shop.

The cafe is the brainchild of artistically inclined woman-about-town Yipeng Zhang, founder of Smash A Cup. No, you cannot smash cups here – Smash A Cup fills cups with tea-based versions of cappuccinos called ‘chappuccinos.’ Yes, you can drink those here.

Don’t let the tea business fool you, though – BigSmall Coffee has serious beans, too. There’s single-origin for you picky sippers, as well as Americanos and lattes for you hutong rats passing through. Best yet: The cold-brew coffee needs neither sugar nor cream – the beans speak for themselves.

Design is at the heart of BigSmall, whose space is blessedly minimal, and whose bottles of beans-to-go feature clever illustrations of dinosaurs. (It also has Airbnb quarters in the back, because it’s 2016, we guess.)

Daily, 5pm-midnight; Jiaodaokou Beiertiao, 175 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城 区 雍和宫大街175号 (137 1800 6251)

Daily, 8am-8pm; 78 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同78号

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 5 1

G LO K I TC H E N A N D F I T N E S S GLO for it! proclaim inspirational slogans along the walls of this fitness-center-pluscafe. Indeed, GLO is a great place if you’re looking for a restaurant that doubles as a CrossFit studio. And if you’re not, it’s a healthy option for lunch (or breakfast, for that matter) whenever you’re near Guanghua Lu SOHO.

Daily, 9am-9pm Unit 103A-B, Guanghua Lu SOHO 1, 22 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 22 号光华路 SOHO 103A-B 室 (5385 4960)

A N A LO G With beans sourced from Brazil, Costa Rica, Indonesia and Yunnan, Analog is a damn good place to spend an afternoon sampling different brews. The cafe’s industrial design mixed with plush Pink Panther toys is alt-cool, and while the menu is almost strictly coffee, its simple offerings make it a refreshing escape from the shit-show that is Nanluoguxiang.

MORNING Another day (month?), another Morning (restaurant). The Wuhan dry noodle joint’s first iteration on Dongzhimen Wai Dajie was so popular it’s already moved to a bigger venue. (Don’t worry – it’s just around the corner from the old one.) New look, same delicious noodles.

Daily, 11am-9.30pm; 10 Chunxiu Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区

Daily, 10am-7pm, 29 Banchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东

东直门外春秀路太平庄 10 号 (130 0123 5903)

城区板厂胡同29号 (159 0117 0903)

PHOTO BY HOLLY LI

is R ic e l e e h t f s i s ll You he Ha We Te Worth t

MONA Delightful new cocktail bar Mona boasts a creative menu as well as a cute-but-notcloying design, which features a hangingcloud light fixture designed by Mona herself (bar owner Charlie’s girlfriend – aww, you guys). The menu is brief but the qualityover-quantity approach is appreciated and, quite frankly, something other bars can learn from. Go for the Ukiyoe (RMB75), a beguiling mix of matcha green tea powder, sake and gold leaf.

Daily, 6pm-1.30am; 20 Dongsiertiao, Dongcheng 东城 区东四二条 20 号 (158 0135 6628)B103 室 (6431 9289)

5 2 J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

O SA K A TA KOYA K I This snack shop behind Gui Jie has got balls. Lots of them, in the form of Japanese takoyaki: fried balls with octopus chunks, smothered in cheese, cream and all manner of terrifying spreads. There’s also an omelet that, upon opening, we discover is full of fried noodles. Uh, no thanks.

Daily, 11am-10pm; 288 Dongzhimennei Dajie,

Dongcheng 东城区东直门内大街288号 (185 0005 5113)

WUSI Don’t be alarmed by the comfy-looking bed that you see before even entering the bar: Wusi moonlights as an Airbnb. The sweet cocktails we sample (RMB80) contrast with the bar’s less-than-innocent look (which includes artworks of nude women covered by strategically placed birds), but they’re drinkable all the same. It’s quirky, yeah, but we kind of like that – and did we mention the bed? A good place to end the night, if you know what we mean.

Daily, 8pm-late; 54 Dongsisitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东 四四条54号 (186 0113 6684)

RESTAUR A N T S | E AT & DR INK

CHINA MOBILE Yes, China Mobile

by No e l l e Ma t e e r

We walk into China Mobile and say: “What can you make us?”

The owner replies: “Dumplings.” We say “OK.” Then we eat.

China Mobile isn’t your typical China Mobile. In fact, it isn’t a China Mobile at all. If it were, we’d be reticent to eat there.

Hell, we’d be reticent just to enter, given all our bad memories of ill-fated phone-fixing attempts. (I know a dude who can unlock your phone, they said. It will be painless and easy, they said.)

But the first sign that this China Mobile is not a China Mobile is the door, draped with Japanese style-curtains. To our delight, we walk through them to something far more appetizing than mobile technology: a tiny kitchen.

Six stools sit alongside a small wooden bar, which surrounds an even smaller kitchen: one stove, one fridge. (This space was formerly – you guessed it! – a China Mobile.

The owner left the original sign out front because he thought it was funny.) Pull up

a seat, and the chef makes you whatever he wants. Most of the time, it’s dumplings, although he sometimes breaks out hot pot and barbecue.

On the night of our visit, he makes us pork jiaozi with light shreds of ginger.

“I make you what I like to eat,” he says simply.

China Mobile is more of a home kitchen than a restaurant, and that has its advantages. First, the dumplings we try are undoubtedly home-style – no grease, no MSG. Second, the prices are low. We pay RMB18 for an overflowing jiaozi plate, and also get a small bowl of fruit and some soup for free.

There are, of course, disadvantages. At China Mobile, you do not get to choose what you eat. When another customer asks for beer, she’s offered Yanjing only.

But when we find ourselves in friendly conversation with both the owner and the other customers sitting at the bar (all of whom are neighborhood residents here for a bite), we find any faults easy to overlook.

This isn’t a formal spot, after all. It’s a neighborhood hangout.

If only every China Mobile was like this.

Daily, dinnertime or whenever this dude wants to

open, really; east end of Xiang ’ er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同东口 (no phone, ironically)

WOOD

Barking up the Right Tree wo rd s by O s c a r Ho l l a n d , i m a g e by Ho l l y L i

No points for guessing which material dominates the interior of Wood.

Sure, there are sprinkles of a fauxindustrial zeitgeist – namely the heavy black lightshades and exposed ventilation ducts – but good old-fashioned trees are the order of the day here. Wood can be found atop the bar, lining the walls and, of course, as a chopping board upon which your steak will sit.

But aside from thwarting the possibility that Wood (the restaurant) is dismissed as a misnomer, wood (the material) offers something genuinely organic. And we mean ‘organic’ in the original sense of the word – one used long before it was commandeered by the wellness brigade. Natural light streams in through the front windows, giving the ground floor a pleasant, airy ambiance. Throw in some white tiles for good measure and the resulting restaurant feels remarkably fresh.

Having started life in Tianjin – where it was recently awarded Best New Restaurant at the That’s Tianjin Food and Drink Awards – Wood has found its way to the capital; a

welcome addition to the carousel of food offerings at Solana (or to give it its official name, Solana Lifestyle Shopping Park, but, you know). Located right next door to the ever-popular Moka Bros, it offers commendable pan-Western fare, sans the inspirational slogans.

So we implore you to forgo your next power bowl – for variety’s sake if nothing else. Those who do will be rewarded with a selection of no-nonsense steaks, BBQ, pastas and Tex-Mex. The robust Australian rib-eye (RMB268) – pink and meltingly tender – impresses, and there are pleasant surprises elsewhere in the menu. The quesadillas (RMB68) are a particular standout, as is the unashamedly tomatoey vegetable pasta (RMB58) and the indulgent chef’s salad with egg, avocado, cheese, beef and chicken (RMB68).

Wood’s fare is filling and thoroughly unpretentious (though there is some excellent single-origin coffee available to those with affectations to fuel). The dearer end of the menu might make this more of a dinner venue, but those after some

mid-afternoon Wood can opt for the very reasonably priced lunch sets (RMB58-88).

We wood.

Daily, 10.30am-11pm; Southern Gourmet Street,

Solana Lifestyle Shopping Park, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园路 6 号蓝色港湾南边湖 畔美食街 (5726 8255)

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 5 3

Mai Dong

脉动

The most chemicaltasting of the bunch. The lime flavoring (pictured) tastes like cleaning fluid, but other varieties are more palatable.

Jian Fa

碱法

This is so full of artificial grape flavoring, it tastes like it should be dark purple. But it’s not.

Color this transparent, and color us alarmed.

Pocari Sweat

宝矿力水特 A touch syrupy and sugary lemon flavored.

T HE SPRE A D | E AT & DRINK

Xiaoyang Ru Suan Yan

小样 乳酸盐

We can put up with the lingering sour-grapefruit aftertaste if all the health benefits on the bottle are realized. If.

Qin Ning Shui

Sea Salt & Lemon

Tastes like if you were to add water – a lot of water – to lemon-

Pleasant, lemony and far from salty – which we suppose is a

honey tea.

good thing.

沁柠水

海之言

The official start of summer isn’t until the solstice on June 20 – but we’ve been hitting the 7-Eleven refrigerators for weeks now. In order to optimize our hydration, Noelle Mateer and Holly Li tested the following flavored-water brands. Have it your shui or the highway.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 5 5

E AT & DRINK | RESTAUR A N T S

NOSH

Tongzhou has Bomb Indian Tacos – and Yeah, We Went There

by No e l l e Ma t e e r

Nosh’s location is ludicrous. The “Indian-Mexican bistro” is in Tongzhou district’s Wanda Plaza. To get there from our offices in Dongzhimen, we have to take Line 2 to Line 1 to the Batong Line, past the Fifth Ring Road. And we thought that would be the hard part.

Wanda Plaza Tongzhou has a fleet of colossal buildings, sparsely signposted by terse information panels that are peppy and funlooking despite their ultimate inutility. To find Nosh, you need more than just a sign. To find Nosh, you need unshakeable determination.

You need a precise location pin on your phone. You need conversational Mandarin, and you need a hand to hold. You need a timeless piece of art or literature – Monet’s ‘Water Lilies,’ perhaps?

Li Bai’s ‘Lamentations in the Tranquility of Night’? – to remind you that life is not meaningless. We don’t give restaurant awards based on location here at That’s Beijing, but if we did, Nosh would win Editor’s Choice for Most Ridiculous Place to Put a Goddamn Indian-Mexican Bistro.

But then, 45 minutes after exiting the subway, we find the tacos.

The chicken tikka tacos.

Nosh serves Indian classics – Tandoori chicken, curries – plus some Mexican dishes with Indian twists in a small bistro whose decor is, honestly, underwhelming. (Think neon green-and-orange wall paint and Indian pop music videos blasting from the flatscreen TV.) But what Nosh lacks in style it makes up for in comfort. Owner Daya Prasad is a warm, friendly man who bounces around his restaurant chatting and clasping his hands together with joy when customers are pleased with his dishes. Longtime Beijing residents may recognize Prasad from his previous restaurant Masala, arguably Beijing’s most popular Indian restaurant from the Olympics-hysteria years of 2006 to 2009.

Prasad and Indian restaurants go way back – like pre-insanityNLGX way back – but the Mexican cuisine is a new development. At Nosh, Prasad’s authentic chicken tikka masala is wrapped in roti like a corn tortilla, then drizzled with yogurt sauce (RMB28). His freshly

5 6 J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

made tomato salsa sits on piles of fluffy, airy baked roti (RMB18). The more traditional Kashmiri rogan josh (RMB50) is excellent Indian comfort food, best with garlic-and-shallot naan. The dishes are topnotch, even if presented in a low-rent manner in this literally lowrent location.

Ever the kindly chatterbox, Prasad tells us he learned to combine Indian and Mexican food “on an American site, YouTube,” which is a weird thing to say. But if you haven’t gathered by now, Nosh is weird.

And its location is more than weird – it’s insane.

If you live or work near Tongzhou, by all means, run to this place.

(Our Tongzhou-based colleagues are sprinting there right now.) But if you don’t have the drive, emotional stability, Mandarin abilities or bravery to face the monolith Wanda Plaza, we hear there are some taco-making videos on YouTube.

Daily, 11.30am-10pm; B3 207, Wanda Plaza, Tongzhou 通州区万达广场西门金街 B3207 (8088 3780)

RESTAUR A N T S | E AT & DRINK

SHOULD YOU EAT AT MERCEDES ME? A Guide to Dining Chez Benz

by No e l l e Ma t e e r

The short answer to the title’s question: Uhhh, maybe?

The long answer: It depends. Do you like Sichuan, Guizhou or Yunnan food? Do you like luxury cars? Do you like flamboyant light fixtures masquerading as balloons?

If yes, then – uhhh, maybe?

Mercedes me (the lower-case ‘m’ is intentional branding, by the way, not a typo on our part) is the mega complex now parked on Gongti Beilu just across from Taikoo Li. If you haven’t seen it, then you must not have left your house in the past month. It is massive. A larger-than-life statue of the Mercedes me logo stands outside flashing bright blues and purples. Highpaced music blares. People take selfies out front.

It is ostentation defined. It is also, frankly, kind of cool. Walk in, and you can check out a couple of Mercedes cars, or pick up some Mercedes #swag. The Beijing visitors’ guides littered throughout – which are free and in both Chinese and English – feature cool-kid city recommendations. A sleek, well-stocked

bar overlooking Taikoo Li plays smooth grooves; a cafe downstairs buzzes with Sanlitun-ers having meetings over coffee.

A Mercedes dealership has never gotten so much action.

But, like, should you eat here?

Mercedes-Benz is known for many things. Food is not one of them. And so we are pleasantly surprised at the quality of the dishes at Sifang Sanchuan, Mercedes me’s contemporary Chinese restaurant on the second floor, which serves flavorful Southwestern Chinese cuisine.

An appetizer of cold pigs’ ears marinates in peppery, complex sauce. Scallops bob around a large bowl of fiery red soup.

The dishes are almost all spicy, and simultaneously complex.

All in all, the cuisine is unexpectedly masterful in spite of its location within Mercedes’ soft-power compound. And yet, therein lies the issue: its location. Mercedes me is as pretentious as it gets. Part of the charm in having authentic, fine Chinese fare is an authentic, fine Chinese setting – lazy

Susans, traditional decor, the hustle and bustle of a popular restaurant. Mercedes me takes all that charm and replaces it with its logo.

And balloons. We’re a little confused by the decor, which is full of ostensibly cool things, none of which we actually like. We can’t tell if the things hanging above our table are balloons or some ultra-modern take on lanterns; walls are covered with shiny mirrors, but no windows; booths are a questionable shade of 1970s-era goldyellow.

Granted, service is more prompt and accommodating than other Sichuan joints. Waiters hover over us with recommendations, and our water glasses are never empty.

But should you eat here? That, ultimately, is up to you.

Sifang Sanchuan; Daily, 10am-midnight; Mercedes

me 2/F, 1 Sanlitun Lu (at Gongti Beilu), Chaoyang 朝 阳区三里屯 1 号 Mercedes me 2/F ( 通盈中心北入口 )

(8588 7150)

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A

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TIAGO HOME KITCHEN

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EUDORA STATION

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Jiangtai Rd PARKSIDE BAR & GRILL

FRANK'S

W Rd AT TRIO Jiangtai PLACE

IRISH VOLUNTEER

4

Hujialou

Dongdaqiao

RED BOWL

E 3rd Ring Rd

6

Dongdaqiao Street

5

Chaoyang N Street

LOVE COFFEE

Jinhui Rd BBG RESTAURANT AND BAR

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BEER MAP 2016

BOTTEGA FRATELLI SALVO | K4 6pm-midnight, 18 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang (6416 1752)

A

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HOOTER'S | I6 Daily 11am-1am, Rm. 201, Bldg 1, China View Plaza, Chaoyang (6585 8787)

BBG RESTAURANT AND BAR | B7 Daily 10am-2am, RE108, World City, 9 Jinhui Lu, Chaoyang (8590 6364)

FEZ BAR | J4 5pm-late, 6F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang (5208 6138)

PARKSIDE BAR & GRILL | A3 9am-late, 6-9 Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang (6444 6555)

HEAVEN | I4 Daily 11am-4am, 14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang (6415 6513)

EUDORA STATION | A2 9am-2pm, 6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang (6437 8813)

THE TREE | I4 noon-2am, A4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang (6592 6290)

C

D

REVOLUTION | H6 Daily noon-1am, West side of Yashow, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang (6415 8776)

E

MUST GUETTE | K5 11am-midnight, S2-11, 1/F, Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang (6417 8202) IRISH VOLUNTEER | C3 Daily 9am-2am, 311 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang (6438 5581)

DURTY NELLIE'S | N1 Daily 10am-2am, 1/B Liangmaqiao Flower Market, Chaoyang (6415 8776) FRANK'S PLACE AT TRIO | B3 Daily 24hrs, West of the Rosedale Hotel, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang (6437 8399)

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I

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N 1 DURTY NELLIE'S

XL BAR AND RESTAURANT

2

3 LET’S BURGER PLUS

BOTTEGA FRATELLI SALVO

ASSAGI

HEAVEN

4

FEZ BAR THE TREE 1ST FLOOR

5

BLUE FROG

MUST GUETTE

REVOLUTION

UNION BAR & GRILL

ELEMENT FRESH

6

JASMINE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

ASSAGI | J4 11am-10pm, 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang (8454 4508)

UNION BAR & GRILL | J6 11am-10pm, 3/F, Taikoo Li South Bldg 5, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang (6415 9117) PARK 17 | B4 11.30am-11pm, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang (6586 1889)

XL BAR AND RESTAURANT | I2 Daily 10am-2am, 1-022 Shoukai Bojun Nanqu, Xindong Lu, Chaoyang (135 2128 5636, 137 1816 3522)

H

I

STELLA ARTOIS draft beer

HOME PLATE BBQ

HOOTER'S

Q MEX THE RUG

RED BOWL | D5 5.30pm-midnight, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang (6597 8888)

PADDY O'SHEA'S | F3 Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang (6415 6389)

1ST FLOOR | J4 Sun-Thu 11am-2am, Fri-Sat 11am-4am, 6F 1/F Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang (6413 0587) LET’S BURGER PLUS | J3 Mon-Thu 10am-11pm, Fri-Sun 11ammidnight, Basement floor, Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang (6415 2772)

J

THE RUG | K7 10.30am-10pm, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang (6507 2342)

TIAGO HOME KITCHEN | C1 11am-10pm, L173, 1/F Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang (8558 3892)

ELEMENT FRESH (SLT) | K6 Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am11pm, 833, Building 8, Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang (6417 1318)

LOVE COFFEE | A6 Daily, 10am-10pm, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang

K

STELLA ARTOIS bottle beer

PARK 17

L

7

JASMINE RESTAURANT & LOUNGE | I7 Daily, 11am-1am, Worker’s Stadium Gate No. 9, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang (6553 8608) HOME PLATE BBQ | L6 Daily, 10am-2am daily, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang (400 096 7670)

8

Q MEX | K7 Daily, 11am-1am, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang (6585 3828)

BLUE FROG | J5 Sun-Thu 10am-12am, Fri-Sat 10am1am, S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, Taikoo Li, Sanlitun, Chaoyang (6415 4303, 6417 4030)

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TOP STORIES

INSTAGRAM HIGHLIGHT

BEIJING • Beijing 6th Most Polluted Megacity in the World We’re still hoping for a clear summer though.

• Producer George Pank on the Amy Winehouse Documentary Chatting to the producer of the awardwinning film, Amy.

• Ancient Relics Discovered at the Forbidden City The Palace Museum is full of new (old) surprises.

• 13 Killer Happy Hours in Beijing ‘Killer’ has nothing to do with fake alcohol, they just taste damn good.

• Apple CEO Tim Cook Spotted

THE MONTH ON

THATS MAGS. COM

in Beijing After Didi Deal

Erotic dancing in public places raises eyebrows down south and online.

NATIONAL Minutes Before Exploding Bus driver embraces the idiom ‘where there’s smoke, there’s fire’

• Uncle Martian Denies Ripping Off Under Armour Big words from the Chinese brand after its logo attracts ridicule.

• Finally, ‘Fried Chicken Flavor’ Nail Polish is Here Available in two colors: original and hot ‘n’ spicy.

• A Huge Piece of Glass Just Fell Off Shanghai Tower Today’s forecast: Cloudy with a chance of glass chards.

VIDEO OF THE MONTH WATCH: Scantily Clad Man Takes Shenzhen by Storm

It’s business time for the Apple CEO and Didi Chuxing.

• Shanghai Bus Evacuated

Thanks to @pippip27 for tagging #thatsbeijing. Tag your pictures on for a chance to be featured on our Instagram.

COMMENT OF THE MONTH

“There is no

way you can compare Instagram posers to these hardcore athletes.”

• Was Corn Drill Video Just a Viral Marketing Stunt?

Asking the hard questions about the ‘Corn Drill Challenge.’

6 0 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

-- User $unid(k9), on ‘Beijing Officer Sets New Planking Record at Eight Hours’

S can the QR code to v isit that smags .com

A DV ER T ORI A L | EDUCAT ION

GUOJI.114STUDY.COM

WHAT QUESTIONS SHOULD PARENTS ASK WHEN CHOOSING AN INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL? by education scholar and General Principal of Shunyi’s Peide School, Dr. Qian Zhilong

As a principal, I think parents are often in real need of help when it comes to choosing an international school.

Sometimes, when parents should be asking questions, they are actually being interviewed themselves. So what questions should parents ask principals?

The following questions can help you think about and choose the right school for your child.

Which questions are meaningful?

I. What’s the mission statement? What’s the motto?

Mission statements exist on every school’s website. But only schools that take everything into consideration from the perspective of students – and listen to parents’ opinions carefully – should survive the careful selection process in international education. There is no doubt that these are the schools most suitable for children.

II. Who is the founder? Why did he or she start the school?

In most domestic international schools, the top management is usually made up of foreigners. But I believe that international principals must include Chinese scholars and experts, with experience in bilingual and international education. This is an inevitable trend as China developments great international education.

III. What are the management models? What duties are between investors and principals?

In my view, the most critical relationships in schools’ management models are those between investors, the chairman of the board and general principal. These will directly affect whether a school will go the distance.

IV. Who is in charge of the school? What’s his or her background?

It’s hard to search top school leaders’ backgrounds online. However, if you can find more information about these principals’ background and better understand their education experience, it will help greatly.

TIPS: What makes a good principal?

Distinguishing whether principals of schools are outstanding isn’t only about looking at their resume or diploma, but from considering whether the school in their charge is one that serves all of its students.

V. Who is the main focus?

Students should be the main focus of the school. Parents shouldn’t only look at the teacher-student ratio but at whether the school lets children speak their minds and be themselves. Independent thinking is more important than knowledge.

VI. Does the school give students enough free time to do their homework?

I hold the opinion that time between classes is important. Whether children have time to think and finish their homework independently is very important. After all, learning isn’t just the teachers’ responsibility.

about teachers

What schools don’t want parents to know

Not every teacher can work immediately after being recruited. Staff turnover can be high which affects the running of a school. The amount that is invested in teachers has a direct relationship with the school’s ability to provide a suitable education, which is directly linked to your child’s chances of getting into a good university.

What should parents know?

I. Can parents go into the campus? Can they take part in school activities?

Parents are the first and most important teachers – and they’ll accompany children for the longest time. Parents should not abdicate all of their responsibilities after sending their children to school.

II. Does the principal get out of the office and communicate with parents?

A principal needs to listen earnestly to parents’ and children’s demands, patiently communicating and sharing with them. Only in this way can he or she really understand what the school is like, how the students are doing, what kind of students and parents he or she is working with, and whether he or she can really grasp the specific development of the school and run the school well.

III. What’s the school’s style of study?

Nowadays, a lot of parents are very concerned about a schools’ ethos.

But do you know who decides a school’s philosophy? Not the principals, not the teachers, but the parents themselves. The ancients said: “words and deeds.” Parents’ every behavior has a crucial impact on their children. Similarly, when the school chooses its students, it should choose their parents carefully too.

Yuanbo International Education is the first domestic one-stop counseling service platform for international schools. We collect the national well-known international schools together, provide detailed schools’ introduction, students’ information and official trends for all parents, and let them easily find the right entrance to academic institutions for their children at Yuanbo International Education. Free hotline: 400-995-2020. For more information visit guoji.114study. com

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 6 1

CITY SCENES Man in red laughs his way through the awkwardness of not wearing a white shirt and jeans to Café Flatwhite’s 10-Year Anniversary Party.

“I have no idea what’s going on, but I kind of like it,” says Michelin-starred chef Umberto Bombana at Opera Bombana’s third birthday.

Man thinks he’s signing up for karaoke, ends up giving the keynote address at Swissotel Beijing’s 25th Anniversary Ceremony.

Flowers outnumber humans at the grand opening of FraserPlace serviced apartments in Tianjin.

Band members don’t let their lack of haircuts in recent months stop them from rocking Jing-A’s Gaige Kaifang beer launch party at School Bar.

6 2 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

EVENT | COMMUNIT Y

GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING CHARITY AUCTION On Sunday May 1 5, G TC Residence Beijing organized a charit y auction event to raise money and awareness for the ‘No Lost Generation Initiative.’ Held outdoors in the ser viced apartments’ spacious sk y garden, G TC residents were invited (and encouraged) to dig deep into their wallets to bid on a selection of traditional Chinese ornaments, paintings and photographs. A fter a competitive bidding session, guests went onto enjoy a delicious buffet and refreshments at the H A FFA Restaurant. T he event was a huge success and all the money raised was donated to UNICEF to aid the humanitarian relief and social ser vices for Syrian refugee children.

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 6 3

Organic / Party

Prettybwoy DJ

HEAR

Luke Black Gig Despite spending just 24 years in the game (of life, that is), Serbian singer-songwriter Luke Black oozes wisdom beyond his years. He’d already put out seven DIY full-length albums before anyone noticed him.

But the world is finally catching on and last year he signed with Universal and released the wellreceived EP Thorns.

Fri Jun 25, 8.30pm; RMB120 (presale), RMB150 (door); Modernsky Lab, 5-108, Floor B1, Building D, Galaxy SOHO, Dongcheng 东城区朝 阳门银河SOHO D座B1层5-108

Every great club night begins with a single step. So although the newest party to arrive at Dada, Organic, is little more than a dream right now, if it blows up you can be like: “Oh, yeah, I was there when that Organic started. That was dope.” Landing just in time for Dragon Boat Festival (which makes Thursday a perfectly acceptable drinking night), Organic promises to explore “the deepness, soulfulness and exquisiteness rooted within house and techno music.”

It also offers plant life, meaning that they’re gonna fill Dada out with loads of actual greenery. Playing in this metaphorical urban jungle will be a trio of Beijing-based DJs: Marc Alexr, Signal and That’s Beijing’s very own smooth house aficionado, Juhstynn (pictured above). All hail from the UK, so expect some of London’s deepest electronic music.

Thu Jun 9, 10pm-late; free; Dada (see Listings for details)

Zion Train + Vibronics / Gig

DJ and producer Prettybwoy is a pioneer of UK garage and grime.

He has a back-catalog of bass-heavy tracks that epitomize the gritty underbelly of British electronic music. But here’s the catch: he’s Japanese and he lives in Tokyo. This hasn’t stopped him from making UK music better than most Brits do, and it’s proving hugely popular in Japan’s bass scene. His ‘Golly Gosh’ club nights are proof that Tokyo’s ravers are willing to get as grimey as London’s, and his Beijing show marks the release of the Solstice EP. Fri, Jun 24; RMB50 (includes digital copy of the Solstice EP); Dada (see Listings for details)

Life In My Imagination Gig

God Is An Astronaut Gig

For the record, God isn’t an astronaut. He (or, most likely, She) is a conception of a supreme being and the principal object of faith. God Is An Astronaut, on the other hand, are an Irish band known for their intense audio-visual live shows and soaring post-rock sound. Hallelujah.

Sat Jun 26; 8pm; RMB260 (presale), RMB350 (door); Yugong Yishan (see Listings for details)

6 4 | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M

Yes, informed readers, ‘Zion Train’ is indeed a song by Bob Marley. But it is also the name of British dub ensemble formed in the late 1980s. By the 1990s, they’d become a force in the UK’s electronic music scene, where they mixed acid house with their own Jamaican influences to create something quite unheard of at the time (see their dub remixes of The Shamen, Afro Celt Sound System and Loop Guru for an idea of what we’re talking about). And to complete an unbeatable lineup for dub fanatics, Zion Train will be joined by another of the scene’s heavy-hitters, Vibronics. China-related fact: Zion Train were signed to a label called China Records between 1995 and 1999.

Fri Jun 17; RMB60; Dada (see Listings for details)

This band chose their English name by taking two characters of their Chinese name (Lei Mi) and using them as an acronym of sorts, thus Life In My Imagination (LIMI).

Geddit? With that out of the way, here’s what you need to know: the Zhengzhou four-piece mix rock and indie-pop with poetry into something unique. Their show at School Bar comes as they release their highly-anticipated new album.

Sun Jun 5; RMB50; School Bar (see Listings for details)

The Summer Sundowner / Party

Art Crawl Hop

DO

Atelier offers a fun take on the generic pub crawl with its art crawl: a tour of cool hutong art spaces as well as local bars. Dongcheng is home to a wealth of creative but often hard-to-find art spaces (see That’s Beijing’s Feb 2016 issue for a run down), so relax and let Atelier lead the way to spaces including Intelligentsia, yi: project space and Jiali Gallery. After all that art appreciation enjoy a drink at one of the participating bars (The Distillery, Tiki Bungalow, Jiao and Cuju).

Sat Jun 11, 5-8pm; RMB100, discounted drinks; meeting point TBA (register via email: contact@ atelier.cn.com or WeChat: atelierapas)

The Ming and the Manchus Walk If you were intrigued by our peek into the Manchu community living in Beijing today (cover story, page 42), why not go way back and learn more about the Qing dynasty? A fun and informative walk and discussion about Chinese imperial history, this event is billed as “not your usual history tour.” With the grand Forbidden City as the location, get set for a majestic and informative morning.

Sat Jun 4, 9am-noon; RMB300 (RMB260 for The Hutong members); The Forbidden City 故宫 (tickets online via www.thehutong.com)

Tai Chi Meditation

Rock the Canvas Art

Get in touch with your creative side at AOTU Studio’s new weekly art event. The good folks at AOTU have set up a giant canvas on their rooftop terrace for you, the artist, to express yourself. With a DJ spinning tracks plus tasty tapas and cocktails on hand, RTC will be sure to add some color to your Thursday night.

Every Thu, 5-10pm; free; AOTU Studio, 67 Beixinqiao Toutiao, Dongcheng 东城区北新桥头条67号 (8408 4189)

That’s Beijing is throwing a party this month with help from our friends at Arrow Factory – and you’re invited! A celebration of summer, beer, sunsets, good food and beats, it’s going to be one hell of a good time. Starting early – to catch those late afternoon vibes, of course – we can’t wait to party on Arrow Factory’s sweet rooftop. Get ready for a fun-filled night featuring: Six DJs over two floors, drinking games, a beer wheel of destiny, lucky draw prizes and RMB30 select craft beers. Plus, the first 50 people to sign up get a free beer upon arrival.

Follow us on WeChat (Thats_Beijing), click on the ‘Events’ tab and select ‘Sundowner’ for more information. See you there.

Sat Jun 18, 4pm-midnight; free; Arrow Factory Brewing (Liangmahe), 1 Xindong Lu (at Liangmahe Nanlu), Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路1号 (亮马河南路) (8532 5335)

Whip your mind into shape this summer with a spot of tai chi. The exercise purports to connect the essence of your energy, teaching you to harness said energy, and let it flow naturally. It may sound a bit airy but think of it as a combination of yoga and meditation: providing strength and flexibility to the body plus tranquility to the mind.

Every Tue in Jun, 9.15am; RMB200 (door), RMB150 (prepaid); China Cultural Center (CCC), Kent Center, 29 Anjialou, Liangmaqiao Lu Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路29号安家 楼肯特中心院内 (6432 9341, chinaculturecenter.org)

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M5 Presents ‘Dive In’ Poolside Brunch

HOPS 2016 International Premium Beer Festival / Beer

TA S T E

Father’s Day Dining Another holiday, another reason to brunch. This time, bring your dad (or baby daddy) and indulge in all manner of treats. The Brickyard at Mutianyu is offering free meals to dads dining at Xiaolumian that day, and there are bound to be other specials throughout Beijing as well – keep an eye on thatsmags.com for all the options.

Father’s Day is Sunday, June 19

Ever been to a pool party and thought: “This is great, but I could really use some paella right now”?

M5 – that stands for the combination of dining-and-partying powerhouses Modo, Moka Bros, Mosto, Migas Restaurant and The Bar at Migas – are throwing a poolside brunch that’s really more of a poolside party. The ultimate combination of food, booze and music, expect tasty Mediterranean bites, house beats and cocktails in a secret location outside Beijing.

Sun Jun 5, 10.15am-7pm; RMB680 including unlimited food and drinks; tickets available at Moka Bros Sanlitun (see Listings for details)

How to Order Baidu Waimai Lecture

Fridays at Opera Bombana’s Terrace Parties

Opera Bombana isn’t just for meals (although we love meals there) – it’s also a great place to drink, especially on its outdoor terrace, now open for summer. On Fridays, cocktails are RMB50 from 6-9pm. Sounds like prime aperitivo hour if you ask us.

Fridays, 6-9pm; Opera Bombana (see Listings for details)

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Have you still not figured out how to order food with Baidu Waimai?

The Sinology Institute doesn’t judge. Join for a class on how to make the most of the speedy food-delivery service. (Tips include relevant Mandarin phrases for when the deliverer inevitably calls trying to find your apartment.)

Sat Jun 18, 11am-noon; free; The Sinology Institute, adjacent to Guloudajie Subway, Exit G 鼓楼大街 地铁站G出口对面 (RSVP by calling 6400 0905 or emailing admissions@ sinologyinstitute.com)

Generally known for its clubs, Gongti is now hosting something just a little bit different – three days, over 80 different types of premium global beers and many delicious varieties of international food.

HOPS magazine is proud to bring you Beijing’s very first International Premium Beer Festival. A mouth-watering selection of beers from Belgium, Italy, Germany, England, the U.S and Japan will be yours to enjoy from the beautiful MGM rooftop terrace. Be sure to ride the rodeo and get down to great music, courtesy of some of Beijing’s finest musical talent. From a rock band in the afternoon to a DJ in the evening, they’ve got you covered.

HOPS is the only publication in China dedicated exclusively to beer culture, providing in-depth and accurate coverage of the evolving beer market, delving into the culinary arts through beer pairings and innovative recipes and expanding its readers’ understanding of beer.

So what are you waiting for? Get your ticket now for just RMB50 (while presale stocks last!) and enjoy your first beer for free by: 1.Following That’s Beijing on WeChat (search for Thats_Beijing or scan the QR code above) 2.Clicking on the ‘Events’ tab 3.Selecting ‘HOPS Beer Fest’ Fri Jul 1, 6pm-midnight; Sat Jul 2, 2pm-midnight; Sun Jul 3, 2pm-midnight; RMB50 early bird, RMB80 at the door (both include one free beer); MGM Club Rooftop Terrace (Workers’ Stadium South Gate) 美高美酒吧顶层露台 工人体育 场南门 ; To buy your presale tickets follow Thats_Beijing on WeChat, click on the ‘Events’ tab and select ‘HOPS Beer Fest’

Beijing Comic Con / Pop culture

Stomp Dance

SEE

Napoli Ballet One of Denmark’s favorite ballets, Napoli tells the tale of a young Italian girl who falls in love with a fisherman. Inspired by creator August Bournonville’s sojourn in Naples, the ballet incorporates elements of folktales combined with a heavy dose of romanticism.

Performed by The Royal Danish Ballet.

Thu Jun 16 to Fri Jun 17, 7.30pm; RMB220-880; Opera House of NCPA 国家大剧院 (tickets via sales@theatrebeijing.com)

China’s Future with David Shambaugh Talk

One of the world’s leading thinkers on Chinese affairs, David Shambaugh asks the hard questions on China’s future in this talk about his book, aptly titled China’s Future.

Will China be successful in implementing a new wave of transformational reforms to make it the world’s leading superpower? Shambaugh looks at all of the possibilities in a nuanced and considered manner.

Tue Jun 28, 7.30pm; RMB50; The Bookwom (see Listings for details)

Gamers, film-geeks and comic fans – this one’s for you. The celebrated pop culture event Comic Con is visiting Beijing for the first time and it’s going to be epic. Beijing Comic Con (BJCC) will feature the latest comic books, products, movies and TV shows, plus a host of activities including a Cosplay Competition and Artist Gallery. The list of guests includes dozens of big names from the world of comics, movies, TV and cosplay, and, what’s more, fans will have the chance to meet them face-to-face and participate in Q&A and signing sessions. The ‘creative’ stars include Jim Lee, who drew Justice League and Superman/Batman series, while ‘entertainment’ guests include Brandon Routh of Superman Returns fame, Ming-na Wen (Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D., the voice of Mulan) and kiwi actor Dean O’Gorman, who played Fili the dwarf in The Hobbit film series. Buy tickets via WeChat (RXChinaComicCon) or online via www.beijing.comiccon.com.cn.

Thu Jun 9 - Fri Jun 10, 9am-5.30pm; RMB180 (single day), RMB320 (two-day), RMB900 (Creator Guests VIP, two-day), RMB1,900 (Entertainment Guests VIP, two-day); New China International Exhibition Center (NCIEC), 88 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu, Shunyi 中国国际展览中心新馆 顺义区天竺裕翔路88号 (新国展)

Stomp is an internationally acclaimed percussion group originating from the UK and famous for turning the ordinary into the extraordinary by using everyday items to create a physical theater performance. The group uses brooms, garbage cans, Zippo lighters and more to fill the stage with big beats and bold moves. It’s dance, it’s music, it’s “The BEST show Ever!” according to Tray from Santa Barbara (stomponline.com). Now’s your chance to see what everyone else in the world has been raving about for the last 25 years.

Jun 29-Jul 17, 7.30pm-9.30pm (Jun 29-Jul 17), 2.30pm-4.30pm (Jul 2-17); RMB180-2,000; PLA Theater, 60 Deshengmen Nei Dajie, Xicheng 解 放军歌剧院 西城区德胜门内大街60号 (6613 1718, buy tickets via en.damai. cn or ponypiao@damai.cn)

Rauschenberg in China Art

This must-see exhibition features Robert Rauschenberg’s (1925-2008) magnum opus The ¼ Mile or 2 Furlong Piece (1981-98); the first time the 190-part and 305 meterlong work has been exhibited since 2000. Also included in the exhibition is a selection of Rauschenberg’s color photographs titled Studies for Chinese Summerhall, taken during the artist’s travels in China in 1982.

Tue-Sun Jun 12-Aug 21, 10am7pm; RMB10; Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA), 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (8459 9269)

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EVENTS

WEEKLY SPECIALS

Happy hours Meal deals Brunch

Food and Drink

Ladies' nights

HALF-PRICE COFFEE AT TRIBE TRIBE, Beijing’s organic savior, opened its bangin’ new Lido location last month. The biggest change from their first place? It is now a bona fide bar-having, cocktail-mixing party spot.

That doesn’t mean, however, that you should forget about the rest.

TRIBE is a one-stop shop for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks, and nothing exemplifies this more than its current coffee deal: a whopping 50-percent off cuppas every morning, 8-11am, at both TRIBE locations.

We’ve always throught TRIBE brews a mean coffee, and this is your chance to see if you agree.

Of course, nothing goes better with coffee than breakfast – and TRIBE has healthy power bowls, smoothies and pastries that will do just that.

Offer available Mon-Fri, 8-11am; TRIBE Lido, Lido Place, Unit B-103, 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路6号B103室 (6431 9289); TRIBE Sanlitun, 1F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区中国红街大厦 3号楼 1层 工 体东路 (8587 1899)

M O N DAY to FR I DAY MONDAY Mai Bar Buy two cocktails, get one free. > 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区 北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)

MONDAY TO THURSDAY XIU Buy-one-get-one-free on selected drinks, 6-9pm. > 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianwai Dajie, Chaoyang 北京柏悦酒店, 朝阳区建国门外 大街2号6楼 (8567 1108)

MONDAY TO FRIDAY One East Two-course set lunch: RMB118/ per person, 12:00-2:30pm.

2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号北京希尔顿 酒店2层 (5865 5030) Great Leap Brewing 11.30am-2pm, free soft drink or juice with any burger or salad or add RMB5 for a Pale Ale #6. > At Xinzhong Lu branch only, (see Listings for details) Hagaki Set lunch, 11.30am-3pm, Bento style lunch set from RMB58 with no service charge.

5-10pm, Daiginjo Sake promotion, RMB550 / 150 Bottle / Carafe. > 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9815) Agua Agua’s new set lunch menu is RMB118/ person for three courses.

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> RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm2:30pm, Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那 里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188 ) Greyhound Café Only RMB28 for a Tsingtao or Bud, and RMB38 for a mojito or dry martini, 5-7pm. > Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details) Village Café Set Lunch, RMB98+15% (3 courses), RMB88+15% (2 courses) > 11.30am-2.30pm, Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区三里屯路11号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5210) MEI All cocktails 50-percent off from 6-9pm. > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家 楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083)

MONDAY TO SATURDAY Twilight Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, RMB20 off cocktails. > 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 (5900 5376)

TUESDAY Pebbles Just RMB10 per taco – order as many as you want. > Midday to midnight; 74 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同74 号 (8404 0767)

TUESDAY TO FRIDAY

杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)

S.T.A.Y Restaurant Three courses including coffee and tea for RMB388/person with 15 percent service charge, 11.30am-2.30pm. > Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路 29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)

Xian Whiskey night, discounts on special selected whiskeys. > All night, 1/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号1层 (8414 9810)

WEDNESDAY

THURSDAY

SIZZLER After 4pm, get 29 percent off your bill. > 3/F Shimao Plaza, 12 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路12号楼世茂广 场3楼 (8400 4773)

Domain Happy Burger’s Day, 2 for 1 Burger promotion. > 10.30am-2pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9830)

Mao Mao Chong Cocktails RMB35, 7-11pm. > 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街板 厂胡同12号 (6405 5718) MEI ‘Modern 80s’ themed music all night alongside 50-percent off deals on bottles of Belvedere vodka. > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家 楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083) Elements Free mojitos, champagne and cosmos, 9pm-1am. > 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体西门58号 (6551 2373) 4Corners Ladies get 15 percent off red wine. cheap shots and drink deals at 4Corners’ weekly celebration of KTV. > Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区石

Opus Terrace Ladies enjoy free cocktails; on Fridays, it’s bachelors night, where chaps get 50 percent off beer and burgers at the same times, 5-8pm. > Opus Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888) MEI Free martinis for ladies from 9-11pm followed by a midnight lucky draw. > 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家 楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083)

FRIDAY Mesh House Champagne buy 1 bottle get 1 free. > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5220)

EVENTS

E V ERY DAY Parlor Daily 6-8pm, buy one get one for free. > 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸 福二村39-8 (8444 4135 ) The Big Smoke Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails, house wines and beers. > 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 2683) Blue Frog Daily 4-8pm, buy-one-get-one-free all drinks. > Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S2 Tower, S2-30 Taikoo Li, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路太 古里3层S2-30 (6417 4030) Additional branches in Jiuxianqiao and U-Town (see www.bluefrog.com.cn for details) Centro Daily 5-8pm, two-for-one deals. > Shangri-la’s Kerry Centre Hotel Beijing, 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光 华路1号香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 (6561 8833 ext. 42) Feast (Food by East) Works for dinner, 2 course RMB168+15% with a glass of wine or soft drinks. > 5.30-10.30pm, 2/F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路22号2层 (8414 9820)

Flamme Cocktail, beers and wine by the glass are 50 percent off from 3-7.30pm daily. > S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Modo Urban Deli 4-7pm cocktails and house wine RMB25 and beer RMB15. > S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207) Mosaic 4-8pm daily happy hour. > Daily 12pm-2am; 32 S. Sanlitun St (Behind/North of Yashow Silk Market), Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南32号楼临街店 (137 1883 7065) Mosto 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and beer. > 3/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 园3层 (5208 6030) NOLA 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Blue Ribbon, Tsingtao and all cocktails including daiquiris. > A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街秀水

南街A-11 (8563 6215) R Lounge Daily 6-9pm, two-for-one standard drinks and cocktails. > 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4 层 (5863 8112) Transit Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. > N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Isola 11:30am-3pm. Lunch for RMB138.

3-6pm Fashion high tea 5-8pm Happy hour, two-for-one on selected drinks 6-10:30 Dinner set menu, 2-course RMB238, 3-course RMB258. > N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里 北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499) Bene Restaurant Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta. > Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Beisanhuan Donglu, Dongcheng 东城区北三环东路 36号 (5798 8888) Cafe Sambal Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats

and vegetables each, varying daily. With soup, appetizer for RMB78. Curry sets from RMB55-65 > See Listings for details Beijing Marriott Hotel Daily 11.30-2pm, dumplings, noodles and desserts, including juice or tea, RMB118. Sun/Sat 11.30-2pm, dim sum, lobster and unlimited beer, RMB168. > 26A Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区霄 云路甲26号 北京海航大厦万豪酒店(5927 8888) Vivid Daily, 6pm-10pm, two-for-one drinks. > Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层 (6584 6310) Transit Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert for RMB88. > N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) Factory (By Salt) Until Sep 30 order summer BBQ catering, from RMB150pp > Factory A1 North, 797 Middle Street, 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区 798艺术区A区七九七中街01#商务楼北楼 一层1号 (010 5762-6451)

WEEK EN D SATURDAY Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) R Lounge Selection of drinks for free all night. > 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店 4层 (5863 8241)

SUNDAY Great Leap Brewing All day Tuesday and Sunday, one select beer at RMB25. >At Xinzhong Lu branch, (see listings for details) The Village Cafe Sun 3:30pm-sold out. Sunday roast RMB98 (+15%; 50% off for kids under 12) > The Opposite House, Building 1, No. 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路 11 号院 1 号楼瑜舍酒店 Qi Sun 11.30am-2pm, all-you-can-eat dim sum including one double-boiled soup for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of

Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, Jinchengfang Dong, 1 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 6666) Senses and Prego Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious Champagne Brunch, international and Asian specialties with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails and juices for RMB 458. Prices subject to 15 percent service. > The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B Financial Street, Xicheng 西城区金融大街 乙9号(6629 7810) Seasonal Tastes Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent surcharge. > Westin Chaoyang, 7 North Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东 三环北路7号(5922 8880) Sureño RMB228 for 2 courses, RMB328 for 3 courses. Supplement RMB150 for free flow cocktails; supplement RMB200 for free flow Champaign (all prices subject to 15% service charge) > Bldg 1, The Opposite House, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号瑜舍酒店1号楼 (6410 5240)

Vasco’s Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet with free-flow champagne for RMB458 plus 15 percent service charge. > Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 东城区 王府井东街8号(5812 8888 ext. 8411)

SATURDAY TO SUNDAY

Eudora Station Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with one main and free flow juice or coffee for RMB98. > Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu. Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园西路6号(6437 8331)

Agua Sat-Sun, Agua’s Infinity Weekend Brunch is RMB298 for infinite food, plus RMB168 for free flow drinks. > 12-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm), Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花 园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)

Migas Migas rocks two different brunch options: Saturday, grilled meat heavy; and Sunday, paella heavy (both RMB210, +RMB138 for 2hrs free flow cava, coffee, tea soft drinks). > Daily 12pm-3pm; Migas 6/F Nali Patio, Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 北街那里花园6层

Aroma Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 percent service charge. > Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 国路83甲(5908 8161)

Sui Yuan Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128 plus 15 percent surcharge. > Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen Waidajie, Xicheng 西城区广安门外大街 168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)

Café Sambal Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal is rolling out weekend brunch. Three courses plus coffee, tea or fruit punch. > 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 43号 (6400 4875)

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LISTINGS OPEN DOOR

RESTAURANT

The Hot One Hundred About This guide represents our editors’ top 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

CHINESE Contemporary & Mixed Cuisine 8 Qi Nian 祈年8号 (Cantonese/Sichuan) The New World Hotel’s flagship restaurant has classic Chinese cuisine in abundance, as well as some vitality-restoring medicinal soups. (Their decent wine list is just as effective.) > Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:15pm, 5:30-9:30pm, Sat/Sun 12-2:45pm, 5:30-9:30pm; 2/F, New World Hotel, 8 Qinian Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区祈年大街8号新世界 酒店2层 (5960 8822)

Bellagio 鹿港小镇 (Taiwanese) A favorite among the city’s hip and young, this swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is the place for mountainous shaved ice desserts and creamy bubble teas. > 11am-11pm; 6 Gongti Xilu Chaoyang 工体西路6 号 (6551 3533) see www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations

Din Tai Fung 鼎泰丰 ¥ (Taiwanese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 eateries in the world, back in 1993. Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s always a long wait.

Expensive...................................¥ Expense Account ....................¥¥ Highly Recommended ..............* Top Ten ....................................**

a diner, but a diner this is not. Rosewood Beijing’s resplendent Northern Chinese restaurant serves elegant Hebei fare unlike you’ve ever had it. Excellent peking duck is on offer as well. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 3F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 3层 (6597 8888)

Da Dong 大董 Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da Dong guarantees slick cuts of Beijing-style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四十条甲22号 (5169 0328); see www.dadongdadong.com for more locations

Duck de Chine 全鸭季 ¥ * Good duck is meant to show your guests how wonderful you are, as much as the food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, with fantastic presentation of its crispy, succulent duck (RMB188).

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; Courtyard 4, 1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) ; 98 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)

The Horizon 海天阁 (Cantonese Beijing Duck) ** Kerry Hotel’s Chinese restaurant has widened its predominantly Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking duck – and the roast bird here really is fabulous. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心1层 (8565 2188)

Xihe Village Restaurant and Bar

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm, weekends 11.30am-10pm; 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502) > Additional branches in Shin Kong Place; Parkview Green; Grand Pacific Mall Xidan; Modern Plaza Zhongguancun; see www.dintaifung. com.cn for details

No 16 Courtyard 后海16号 (Beijing) Houhai No. 16 is a courtyard restaurant in Houhai, specializes in dishes once served for the government in the imperial times, with customizable menus. ¥380/person (without drinks)Open: 11.30am-9pm > D4, Dajin Hutong. Xicheng District, 西城区后 海大金丝胡同4号(8322 6461,13716551797,www. houhai16.com)

Jing Yaa Tang 京雅堂 (Chinese, Peking Duck)

SIZZLER

Resembling something between a nightclub and a theater, the Opposite House’s basement restaurant proves to be more than just style over substance with their range of expertly prepared classic dishes.

License to Grill

> Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 楼瑜舍酒B1楼 (6410 5230)

If you hadn’t heard already, Sizzler is redefining casual dining. Its menu features some fantastic hot dishes that span steak, seafood, BBQ and much else besides. On our most recent visit – to the buzzing Shimao Gongsan outlet in Sanlitun – we tried out the New York steak (RMB238). This is Sizzler’s premium cut, and it shows – our medium-rare steak is expertly cooked and wonderfully tender. While we were there, we also tried out some of the other dishes from the signature collection, namely the grilled salmon with tomato salsa (RMB139) and the barbecue pork ribs (RMB159) both of which hit the spot perfectly. Plus, every main dish comes with access to Sizzler’s all-you-can-eat salad bar, which is a sight to behold. In addition to pre-mixed salads, there’s a dizzying array of fruits, vegetables, soups and even pasta, to ensure that you hit your ‘5-a-day’ with ease. Just make sure you leave enough space for the main act. Fo’ Sizzle! > We ate at the Sanlitun Shimao Gongsan 三里屯世茂工三店 branch (8400 4014). Other outlets of Sizzler can be found at Wangfujing Oriental Plaza Store 王府井东方广场店 (8518 6315); Chongwenmen Glory Mall Store 崇文门国瑞购 物中心店 (6714 0399); Wangjing Capital Mall 望京凯德购物中心店 (6471 3876); Wanliu BHG 万柳华联商场店 (8258 9405) Wan Shoulu Crystal Capital Mall 万 寿路凯德晶品店 (6826 086); Xizhimen Capital Mall 西直门凯德购物中心店Mall (5830 2199); Changying Paradise Walk 常营龙湖天街店 (8539 0438); Tianjin Joy City 天津大悦城店 (8728 1620). All stores open daily, 10am-10pm.

Wu Li Xiang 屋里香 (Cantonese, Sichuan) * Impressive views don’t detract from the exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, especially the dim sum. Swanky classics from all the main culinary regions of China, including, of course, “Monk Jump Over the Wall” – braised pork in oyster sauce.

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> Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm; 2-3/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406)

Yipin 一品 (Huaiyang) * The Sofitel Beijing’s boutique Chinese restaurant, Yipin is a beautifully thought-out conflux of all that is elegant, traditional and tasty. Huaiyang cuisine headlines the menu, so expect sweet and delicate and sweet flavors with impeccable presentation. > Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店 (8599 6666)

Peking Duck Country Kitchen The name ‘Country Kitchen’ may sound like

> Mon-Fri Lunch: 11am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5-9pm; Sun: 11am-9pm, S9-33, 3/F, South Area of Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19 号三里屯太古里南区三层S9-33(6417 6082)

Shanghai Shanghai Min 小南国 Many swear this chain has the best Shanghai-style hongshaorou north of the Yangtze. The jury’s out, but its popularity remains. > 0505, 5/F Raffles City Mall, 1 Dongzhimen Nan Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福士 购物中心5楼0505号铺 (400 820 9777)> Additional branches in Financial Street; Jinbao Jie; Oriental Plaza; Sanlitun Soho; Xinyuan Nan Lu (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Wang Jia Sha 王家沙 Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. > Daily, S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun (on the third floor of i.t shop) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 S1-30a号商铺 (6416 3469)

Sichuan/Hunan Chuan Ban 川办 * This bright, modestly decorated dining hall is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan restaurant.

> Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; SatSun 7am-10pm; 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

Karaiya Spice House 辣屋 * Bold and fiery Hunan cuisine in the most serene of restaurant interiors. Don’t miss

LISTINGS the dry roasted duck with a dozen spices and stir fried bullfrog with shiso leaves and ginger. Peanut milk is there to soothe the palate: you’ll need it. > Daily 11:30am-2pm, 5:30-10pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里19号 院南区三层S9-30 (6415 3535)

South Memory 望湘园 This restaurant chain is the Hunan staple in the capital. The trademark shilixiang niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and meltingly tender frog dishes are among the favorites with locals. > Daily 11am-10pm; 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街 18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797); see www. southmemory.com for more locations

Yuxiang Renjia 渝乡人家 The menu here is old-fashioned and reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted confections are guaranteed to comfort numbed-and-burned tongues, too.

> Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841) see www.yuxiangrenjia.com for other locations

Yu Xin 渝信川菜 Open since 1993, Yu Xin’s authentic Sichuan dishes have earned a loyal fanbase. Their liangfen – a jelly-like substance cut into chunky strips and dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot. The rustic, intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and swift, friendly service complete the experience. > Daily 11am-10pm; 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 see www.yuxin1997.com for other locations.

Transit 渡金湖 ¥¥ ** Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and its equally hot girls. While the latter are up to you, the creative minds at Transit have made some fiery additions to the classical, chili-thumping canon, and they will charge you for that knowledge. But unlike many equally expensive joints, this is high-end Chinese dining at its best.

阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431) > Additional venues in Sanlitun; Taikoo Li Mall; Indigo Mall (see www.middle8th.com for details)

Yun’er Small Town 云洱小镇 Folksy and affordable Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.

> Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)

Dumplings Baoyuan Jiaoziwu 宝源饺子屋 Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian options and authentic Sichuan food. > Daily 11am-10pm; north of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)

Mr Shi’s Dumplings 老石饺子馆 Since recieving a Lonely Planet recommendation the prices have risen and the walls are covered in backpackers’ scribbles, but the fantastic dumplings – boiled and fried – are still fantastic. > 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826)

Regional Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim restaurant. Eastern European and Central Asian influences are evident throughout, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes livening up traditional Chinese favorites. > Daily 10am-11:30pm; 16 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东四六条16号 (6400 5281)

Da Gui (Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.

Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational.

> Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm; N4-36, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11 号三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)

> Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm; 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东城区交道口大兴胡同69 号 (6407 1800)

Yunnan

Makye Ame (Tibetan) Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine consists of more than just yak-butter tea, the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain serves up nomadic classics such as curried potatoes and roast lamb.

Dali Courtyard 大里院子 * If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard setting. The price (RMB120/person) matches the rustic ingredients. > Daily 12-2pm, 6-10.30pm; Gulou Dong Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大 街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)

Hani Gejiu 哈尼个旧 ¥ Somthing about Gulou makes it the perfect district for Yunnan food, and this little gem is up their with the best. Contender for friendliest service in town.

> Daily 10-midnight; 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街 甲11号 (6506 9616)

ShiChengJi Shaobing 实诚吉烧饼 If ever a food were able to alleviate life’s difficulties – however temporarily – then this is surely it. In one bite, these beef shaobing will remind you exactly why you first chose to live in Beijing. They’re that good.

Queues of locals are testament.

> Mon-Sat 11am-10pm; 46 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区钟楼弯胡同46号 (6401 3318)

> Daily 7am-7pm; 43 Dongsi Liutiao, Dongcheng 东 城区东四六条43号 (186 1029 5038)

Lost Heaven 花马天堂 (Yunnan, SE Asian)

Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * One of Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant, Red Rose serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers around, matched by enormous servings of classics like dapanji (a chicken, potato and pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy tomato sauce) and nang (baked flatbrea). > Daily 10.30am-11pm; Inside 7 Xingfuyicun, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区 工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741)

WESTERN Fine Dining

An emphasis on Yunnan characterizes this menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia passage, with a grandiose yet dark teak interior.

> Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am).

Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)

Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 * Hip and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild herbs galore. > The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝

OPEN DOOR

Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the Piedmont wine it is named after.

> Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿 酒店内 (5908 8151)

Grange Grill ** Located in the Westin Beijing Chaoyang, Grange Grill serves up some of the city’s best steak, seafood and grill offerings. The restaurant’s welcoming decor provides a relaxing atmosphere to enjoy a glass of cocktail or a fine vintage from the extensive wine collection. Be sure to try the ‘luxurious oyster feast,’ where you can enjoy the delicacy raw, grilled or with cheese. > Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Sat and Sun

BLUE FROG Under the Sea, Under the Sea Blue frog is burger central – this you know already (unless you’ve been living under a rock). This month, though, the bar and grill is changing things up with its Summer Seafood Menu. Inspired by the beach vacations people love this season, blue frog is serving up a variety of fresh, tasty seaside dishes. To start, there’s the Soft Shell Crab & Shrimp Salad, which sees a healthy salad topped with crab from Myanmar and juicy shrimp. Next are the Poached Chilean Blue Mussels, smothered in a creamy tomato sauce.

For a satisfying main, we love both the Pan-Fried Icelandic Sea Bass and the Seafood Laksa. They’re both hearty, and go nicely alongside the Taiwanese Seafood Fried Rice. All seafood dishes have been lovingly developed by blue frog’s fantastic Executive Chef Ling – and if that’s not enough for you, the team at any blue frog location will happily recommend the perfect wine, beer or cocktail to accompany all that ocean fun. > blue frog (see Listings for details)

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excellent – as are the Mojitos.

OPEN DOOR

> Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东里8号中 海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

Chi (Organic, Fusion) Hutong set-menu dining par-excellence, with organic ingredients all locally sourced.

From the owners of neighboring Saffron. > Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 67号 (6445 7076)

C Pearl (Oysters, Seafood) ¥ * This slick oyster restaurant imports fresh shells from Canada, South Africa, France, USA and more – and they are well worth the price. The fries are the best we’ve had in Beijing, beer and wine selection also excellent. > Tue-Sun 5.30pm-2am; 14-2, Bldg 14, Shunyuanli, Xinyuan Jie, Yansha Qiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥新 源街顺源里14号楼14-2号 (5724 5886)

Grill 79 (Steak) With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food was terrible. It’s something of a bonus then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine lists in town.

Get a taste of summer at Beijing’s premier brunch spot The Rug. Inspired by the owners’ travels, eating through The Rug’s new menu is like taking a culinary tour through the world’s tastiest destinations: Southeast Asia, Africa, Spain, Italy, India, plus more. On our most recent visit we enjoy several new additions such as the ox-tail pho (RMB58), homemade kingfish ceviche (RMB68) and chicken mango egg burrito (RMB102). Each dish is full of flavor with lovely inspired touches such as mango sauce and homemade prawn cracker. To finish the meal we down some of their zesty cucumber shots (RMB28 for two): a blend of fresh cucumber, gin and special spices. An innovative new wine and beer menu also tempts the taste buds. While the temperature heats up, you can always count on The Rug to keep things cool. > The Rug (see Listings for details)

> Daily 11am-midnight; 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)

The Georg ** This hutong mansion has an elegant restaurant, leather-couched lounge area, sleek bar and sick location near Houhai. But most importantly, it has some of the most thoughtful, innovative cuisine in town. Go for a dinner you won’t forget. >10.30am-midnight (dinner 6-10.30pm), closed Mondays; 45 Dongbuyaqiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东 城区东不压桥胡同45号 (8408 5300)

Capital M ¥ (Contemporary Western) ** The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of al-fresco dining, with world-class modern European stylings and deliciously posh afternoon tea. > Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie, Dongcheng 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 2727)

Héritage ¥¥ A French country-style chateau in the heart of Beijing. A chef de cuisine with Michelin star restaurant experience and an extensive wine cellar make this Sofitel Hotel restaurant one of the best French dining experiences in town. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场 C座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥¥ (Contemporary Western) ** Setting is everything here, especially if it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist temple. The bold contemporary European cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service alone is worthy of worship.

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> Sofitel Wanda Beijing, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C 座索菲特酒店6层 (8599 6666)

Yi House (Contemporary Western) Nestled in the confines of 798, Yi’s great tasting brunch is bettered only by their wide range of cocktails. Sundays offer jazz brunches with lobster and champagne.

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am; 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥 路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)

Café/Deli/Sandwich awfullychocolate

Factory Fun, contemporary cuisine that’s as creative as its 798 environs – plus some South American fare from Chef Camilla Betin.

Cool As A Cucumber

serie Flo ¥¥ (French) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.

The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity of the experience.

VIC Not to be confused with the notorious nightclub of the same name, this VIC is the Sofitel Beijing’s casual dining restaurant. All the major world cuisines are in attendance here – make you pay special attentions to the French-inspired breads and pastries – as is the customary Sunday champagne brunch.

> Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店 79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)

THE RUG

11.30am-3.pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30-10.30pm; The Westin Beijing Chaoyang 7 North East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang 东三环北路7号 (5922 8888)Bras-

> Daily 10am-10pm (Lunch start from 11am, Only afternoon tea served on Mon-Fri 2.30-5pm), No. 19/20, B1/F, Jia Ming Center, 27 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路27号嘉铭中心地下一层 19/20号(6500 3354)

> Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; 23 Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng 东城区沙滩北街嵩 祝寺23号 (8400 2232)

Mio ¥¥ Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight to your table.The Chef crafts a superb squash tortellini by hand, and pampers diners with desserts like the deconstructed tiramisu. >Daily lunch 11.30am - 2.30pm, dinner 5.30pm -10.30pm, Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang, 朝阳区亮马桥路48号北京四季酒店 (5695 8888)

S.T.A.Y. ¥¥ (French) Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred chef, Alléno Yannick’s, back-to-basics kitchen concept, which includes a mouthwatering ‘pastry library’. Classic dishes usually include dishes such as steak, foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and grill for international standard fine-dining. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, 1/F, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香格 里拉饭店 (6841 2211 Ext. 6727)

Contemporary Western Alfie’s ¥ (British) What’s all this about, then? British gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club interior, and located in a chic modern art gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate. > Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on weekends; Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)

Bistrot B Rosewood Beijing’s exquisite French restaurant is the sort of place chefs like to eat.

Expect lavish luxury. > Daily, 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-10:30pm; 1F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang 朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中心北京瑰丽酒店 3层 (65360066)

Caribeño (Latin) Heavy Cuban influence, but there are dishes from all over the Latin continent here. The Ropa Vieja (shredded beef on potato) is

>Factory A1, North Business Building 797 Zhongjie, 798 Art Zone A, Chaoyang 朝阳区798艺术区A区七九 七中街01商务楼北楼一层1号 (5762 6451)

Miss K Cafe (Xing Fu Cafe) Whether it’s a rainy morning or a sunny afternoon, relax with your favorite novel and a cup of freshly brewed coffee. Experience a quiet moment of serenity amid the hustle and bustle of Beijing. >Daily, 8am-8.30pm; 1/F, Tower A, East Gate Plaza, Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东环广场A座 一层幸福咖啡馆 (6418 1096)

Missa (European) Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of meat or the long list of expertly made and creative cocktails going down your gullet, you can’t really go wrong at this refined relaxed lounge like restaurant.

> Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Taikoo Li North, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里北区3号楼3 层32-33 (137 1851 7917)

Mosto (European, South American) ¥ * A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for modernising South American-style dishes like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. > Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030)

Sizzler Sizzler invented ‘casual dining’ in Australia when it introduced the first soup, salad, pasta and fresh fruit concept. Since those pioneering days, it has expanded its ‘classic grill’ to include, not only steak and seafood, but also delicious chicken dishes, BBQ ribs, combination meals, and burgers.

‘Variety’ and ‘freedom to choose’ set Sizzler apart from other dining experiences. At Sizzler customers are free to control the volume, nutritional balance and variety of each meal by ordering from the grill and helping themselves to our famous soup, salad, pasta and fruits. >All stores open daily, 10am-10pm ;Wangfujing Oriental Plaza Store 王府井东方广场店 (8518 6315); Chongwenmen Glory Mall Store 崇文门国瑞购物中 心店 (6714 0399); Wangjing Capital Mall 望京凯德购 物中心店 (6471 3876); Wanliu BHG 万柳华联商场店 (8258 9405) Wan Shoulu Crystal Capital Mall 万寿路 凯德晶品店 (6826 086); Xizhimen Capital Mall 西直 门凯德购物中心店Mall (5830 2199); Sanlitun Shimao Gongsan 三里屯世茂工三店 (8400 4014); Changying Paradise Walk 常营龙湖天街店 (8539 0438); Tianjin Joy City 天津大悦城店 (8728 1620)

Stuff’d (Contemporary Western) The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff one kind of food in another. From sausage calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.

> Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区箭厂胡同9号 (6407 6308)

Tomacado Tomacado is indeed a mash-up of ‘tomato’ and ‘avocado’ – and while you’ll certainly find these ingredients on the menu, you can also expect pleasant drinks, light soups and heartier main courses from this charming cafe. Fowers are also available for sale.

This place is anything but awful. The cakes, ice creams and pastries are enough to satisfy any sweet tooth.

>Daily 9am-10.30pm, 1) Sanlitun: Opposite to BHG, B1/F, Southern area of Taikooli, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯太古里地下一层华联超市对面 (8468 3802); 2) Indigo: B1/F, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地下一 层 (8426 0917); 3) Joy City Chaoyang: 5/F Joy City Chaoyang, Qingnian Lu, Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳北路青年路朝阳大悦城5楼悦界区 (8582 2677); 4) Raffles City: B1/F, Raffles City, Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门来福士地下一层 (8409 8038)

Beiluo Bread Bar (Café) This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.

Gets cozy at night. > Tue-Sun noon-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷) (8408 3069)

Café Zarah (Café) * A smart new interior and menu for this longstanding cafe has propelled it from hipster hangout to Gulou institution. Large, airy and with a terrace for summer, the only downside is it’s always packed. > Daily 9.30am-midnight，42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)

Café Flatwhite Hailing from New Zealand, Café Flatwhite uses fresh and healthy ingredients in its tasty selection of sandwiches, pizzas, salads and brunch options, all served alongside some of the best coffee in Beijing. > Open Daily, Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 9am-9pm; Sanlitun Soho Store: B1-239, Building 2, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北 路8号院三里屯SOHO2号楼B1-239 (5785 3762 / 15910944325); 751 D-Park Store: No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙 桥路4号798大山子艺术区751动力广场 (6432 2798 / 13522120390); 798 Dashanzi Art District Store: D09-1, No.4, 798 Dashanzi Art District, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区酒仙桥路4号 798艺术区D09-1 (5978 9067 / 13051771436); China Central Mall Store (Hua Mao): China Central Mall, Room L315, 81 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区建国路81号L315 (8588 7978 / 15652922791); Jianguomenwai DRC Store: Building 7-1-11, 1 Silk Street, Chaoyang 朝 阳区秀水街1号建国门外外交公寓7-1-11 (8532 2633 / 18701092189) www.cafeflatwhite.com, cafeflatwhite@hotmail.com, WeChat username: CafeFlatwhite

Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) Chain of restaurants and one of the longest running with quality ingredients and good service. One of the mainstays in Beijing. > Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm.

833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 8号楼833 (6417 1318)

LISTINGS MODO Urban Deli (Contemporary Western) * Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery was designed around an ever-changing selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh tapas style food and original finger foods.

> Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm; 3/F, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South (close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太 古里南区3楼(近新元素) (6415 7207)

MOKA Bros (Contemporary Western) * Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio space, which also has a great selection of cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more indulgent. > Sanlitun: Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am11:30pm, B101b Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号B101B南楼 (5208 6079) ; Solana: Solana Lakeside Dining Street, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区湖畔美食街 朝阳公园路6号院蓝色港湾 (5905 6259)

Ricci Named after a 17th century Italian Jesuit (duh), this creative café has a funky, kookymeets-organic vibe and serves up some of the best casual western food in town, and a great brunch at the Wudaokou location (Chaoyang branch closed weekends).

> 1/F, Building D, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu, Haidian 海淀区中关村东路1 号院清华科技园D座1楼 (8215 8826 )

The Rug (Contemporary Western, Organic) * With ingredients supplied by local organic farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an emphasis on sustainability, this café’s wide ranging menu has something for everyone, especially green types, bored foreign moms and freelance Macbook types. > Mon-Fri 7.30am-10:30pm, Sat/Sun 9:30am10:30pm; Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4 号楼(朝阳公园南门对面) (8550 2722) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see online.thatsmags. com for details)

TRIBE * Salads, wraps and sandwiches, and noodle and grain bowls are as tasty as they are holistic, and there are more superfoods in one single dish than we even knew existed.

Come hungry, leave basking in the warm, glow that comes from knowing that you are eating well. Kombucha is the icing on the (organic, locally-sourced) cake. > Daily 8am-10.30pm, 1/F, Building 3, China View Plaza, 2A Gongti Dong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体东路甲2号中国红街大厦3号楼1层大厅入口南侧 (8587 1899)

Wagas (Contemporary Western) Quality eats with minimal pretension. This stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town.

The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd pleaser.

> Daily 8am-10pm; S8-33, 3/F, Bldg 8, Taikoo Li South, 19 South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 里屯太古里南区三层 (6416 5829) > Additional locations in The Kerry Centre, Raffles Mall Dongzhimen (see www.thatsmags.com for details)

Burgers Blue Frog

区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际中心AB座一层15 16单 元 (8590 3168)

North Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路9 号2层 (6584 6270)

Chef Too ¥ With its crisp white tablecloths and service, this upscale New York diner serves up some of the classiest burgers in town.

Morton’s of Chicago (American) ¥¥ * Meat so tender the knife falls through it: ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide praise. Expensive, but where else are you going to get steak this good? (Try the RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)

> Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)

American/BBQ/Grill The Big Smoke * Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full menu evenings only (also delivers rotisserie chicken via Uncle Otis).

> Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm.

First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区幸福村 中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268, www. uncle-otis.com)

Home Plate BBQ * Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks. Beer and bourbons are taken care of, too. > Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口, 往北走20米,到第一个路口右转(5128 5584) > Additional location in Sanlitun Nan Jie (see www. thatsmags.com for details)

NOLA N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA a popular watering hole. > Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区秀水南街11号 (8563 6215)

Union Bar and Grill The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict to baby back ribs – covers all bases and hours, served by friendly staff.

The warm atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.

> Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat/Sun 11am-midnight; S631, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区 6号楼3层S6-31 (6415 9117)

The Woods * New York native-owned, Manhattan-style restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple than that. > Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号 新城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380)

Mexican/Tex Mex Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. >Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Taikoo Li, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里太古里南区 (6416 5212)

> All open Daily 10am-late; S2-30, Level 3, S2 Tower, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号三 里屯太古里南区三楼S2-30 (6417 4030) ; No.167, 1/F, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 18号1层167号 (8426 0017) ; No.125, 1/F, Bldg 1, Sanfeng(North), Chaoyang 朝阳区三丰北里1号楼1层 125号 (8561 2665) ; Unit 15-16, 1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean International Center, 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳

> Daily 11:30am-midnight (closed Mondays); 14 Zhangwang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区旧鼓楼大街 张旺胡同14号 (6405 4352)

Steak 29 Grill (Contemporary Western) * Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. > Mon-Fri lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Mon-Sat dinner: 6-10.30pm (closed Sundays); Conrad Beijing, 2/F, 29

Florentina 翡冷翠意大利餐厅

Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar (Contemporary Western) ¥¥ * The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus start from around RMB428 and merrily spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order.

> Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西 城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)

O’Steak A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by the Irish sounding name, it’s an authentic French bistro – not a Guinness in sight.

> Daily midday-midnight, Xingfu: No.55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu, opposite of April courmet, Chaoyang 朝 阳区幸福村中路55-7杰作大厦底商绿叶子超市斜对 面 (8448 8250) ; Central Park: No.o103 building 20, Central Park, No.6 Chaowai Avenue, Chaoyang 朝 阳区朝外大街6号新城国际20号楼103 (6533 6599); shunyi: No.11-102 Shine Hills, No.9 Antai Avenue, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪安泰大街9号祥云小镇南门 11号 楼102 (8048 5080)

Italian Annie’s ¥ * Now a certified Beijing institution, Annie’s, serves up the city’s most reliable Italian fare. Delivery is free anywhere between Line 5 and the the Fifth Ring Road (call for delivery prices outside this area), and can be ordered in English between 10.30am and 10.30pm from www.annies.com.cn.

Alternatively, drop in to your local branch.

>All open Daily,10.30am-11pm; Beijing Riviera: opposite west gate of Lane Bridge Villa, Shunyi 朝 阳区来广营东路5号长岛澜桥别墅西门对面尚古城一 楼 (8470 4768); Lido: Jiangtai Lu, opposite United Family Hospital 朝阳区将台商业街4号楼2楼和睦家 医院对面 (6436 3735); Wangjing: 2F, beside the Daimler Tower, LSH Plaza, 8 Wangjing Jie 朝阳区利星 行广场A座戴勒姆大厦裙楼2层近望京商业中心 (8476 0398); Chaoyang Park: West Gate of Chaoyang Park 朝阳区朝阳公园老西门南侧 (6591 1931); Sanlitun: China View Building, opposite East Gate of Workers’Stadium 朝阳区工体东门对面中国红街一楼 (8587 1469); Ritan Park: Ritan High Life, 3F, north of Ritan Park 朝阳区神路街39号日坛上街3-108号 (8569 3031); The Place: East of the Place, south of Central Park 朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际中心AB座1 层 (8590 6428); Guomao: Ruisai Business Building (southest of Guomao subway) 朝阳区东三环南路2 号瑞赛大厦商务楼1层 (6568 5890); Sunshine 100: Guanghua Lu, opposite Sunshine 100 Building 朝阳 区光华路阳光100公寓对面首经贸南门 (858 98366)

Assaggi ¥ * This fine Italian spot in the leafy embassy district has one of Beijing’s best terraces for summer dining. The tagliata steak is worth a return visit. > Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-11:30pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 (8454 4508)

Della Bocca Trattoria¥

Florentina serves authentic Italian fare in low-key, yet elegant surrounds. Cuisine is high-end, the environment is relaxed. A beautiful outdoor terrace makes this place a godsend for Lido residents.

> Daily 11-late (Kitchen serves until 10pm), 1/F, Bldg 2, No. 6 Yard, Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园 西路6号院2号楼1层(8431 0027)

Bene ¥ * Chef Ricci will have you singing like a soprano with his pork ravioli and prize-winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. > Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)

Cepe ¥ In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to its attention to the smallest detail – everything from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb. > Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The RitzCarlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街 丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666)

Mercante ¥ * Old World family charm in an intimate hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade pastas and seasonal mains. > Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)

Opera Bombana ¥ Head chef Umberto Bombana boasts three Michelin stars to his name, earned at his wildly successful Hong Kong restaurant Otto e Mezzo. He’s the only Italian chef to do so outside of his native land, and certainly the only to have opened a restaurant in Beijing. > Daily, 12pm-10:30pm; LG2-21 Parkview Green Fangcaodi, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东大 桥路9号侨福芳草地地下2层21号 (5690 7177)

Spanish Agua ¥ * Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Winner of the 2014 Golden Fork Editors’ Pick for best restaurant. > Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花 园 (5208 6188)

Aria ¥¥ * This gold standard of opulence has crafted a new Spanish menu. A fantastic place for paella brunch. In-house sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.

> Tue-Thu 5.30pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5.30pm-2.30am, Sun 11am-1am; 1/F, Unit 10, Electrical Research Institute, Sanlitun Nan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯南路机电研 究院内10号1层 (6501 6026)

Blue Frog is pleased to introduce a creative new Drinks Menu. As the new year begins, this new menu will wake up everyone’s taste buds with a bevy of specialty and original cocktails, mocktails, shots, beer, wine and healthy drinks inspired by popular ingredients.

> Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang 朝阳 区三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (6416 3499, www.gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, reservations@isolabeijing.com )

> Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm, Sun 5-10:30pm; 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 东城区金宝街99号 丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777)

Taco Bar Rising from the ashes of its deceased hutong location, the new Taco Bar is hip, popular and able to produce some of the most authentic Mexican fare in town. Only RMB45 for three and great cocktails to complement.

Palms L.A. Kitchen and Bar * (KoreanMexican fusion) Tucked away near Gulou, this hip little hutong concept is truly one of a kind in Beijing. Quesadillas with kimchi and bibimbaps with melted cheese and hot sauce.

Guess what? It works. Killer range of classic Cali’ cocktails, too.

all fantastic, but just as good is a classic Margherita pizza.

> Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 6-10pm; 2/F China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街 (6505 2266 ext. 36)

Good-value homestyle Italian is the order of the day at this little-known spot in Beixinqiao.

> Closed on Monday; Dinner: 5-10pm; Lunch: 10am3pm; 3/F, 277 Dongzhimen Nei Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门内大街277号三楼 雍和宫大街和北新 桥头条交叉处的四层商业楼三楼 (6455 3832, 1391 0969 240)

Isola Bar & Grill Isola’s elegant design, even by Taikoo Li North standards, is classic Italian panache – and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata, Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are

Niajo ¥ * With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is prime Sanlitun smart-casual dining. Order the paella (their star dish) together with some tapas and be automatically transported to Spain (minus the constant sunshine). > Daily noon-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6052)

Migas ¥ * The boys at Migas have turned a concept bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 7 3

summer’s rooftop destinations.

> Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 6层 (5208 6061)

German Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant 博璨德国啤酒餐厅 Brotzeit offers its customers a unique experience with authentic German cuisine and world famous German beers in a casual environment. Coupled with its contemporary setting and unique brand appeal, Brotzeit is distinct from the traditional-style German restaurants still seen in Germany and other parts of the world. > Daily 11am-late; F109, Grand Summit, bldg 5, 19 Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东方东路19号 楼(DRC外交办公大楼)一层F109 (8531 5166, www. brotzeit.co)

Drei Kronen 1308 * Authentic (truly – when they say 1308 they mean it) displays of armour and brewing kits draw regular evening crowds for the superb pork knuckle and heavy-duty helles (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed on-site). > Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5号楼1 层(6503 5555)

Paulaner Brauhaus The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the provinces. It can be pricey but is usually worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.

> Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)

Pizza La Pizza Among the upper echelons of Beijing pizzerias is this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood-fired oven and Neapolitan manners. Further branches in Solana and pasta/salad/mains-buffet restaurant in Sanlitun 3.3

> Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582); Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Park Road, Chaoyang 朝阳公园西路6号蓝色港 湾3号1层 SA-48 ( 5905 6106) > SOHU Shangdu Branch: SH1112, SOHO Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路8号SOHO尚都 SH1112号(5900 3112); La Pizza Buffet: 4F, Sanlitun 3.3 Mall, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3服装大厦4层 (5136 5990)

Tube Station Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be the biggest in town. > Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun 10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, Fri-Sun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang 三里屯北街33号3.3服 装大厦3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) > Additional branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and Weigongcun, see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

层 (6467 2961)

Asian South-East Asian Bhoomi Store Philippines Food Shop Bhoomi store One stop destination where a wide range of Philippines food products are served.

> Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm. 266 Yaohong Lu by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang Shanghai, 上海闵行区姚虹路266号, 近红松东路 (021 2428 3400)

4Corners (Vietnamese, Fusion) The definitive hutong bar/restaurant? Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a great bar, with frequent live indie performances. > Tue-Sun 11am-2am, 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng 西城区大石碑胡 同27号烟袋斜街西口附近) (6401 7797)

Cafe Sambal (Malaysian) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, it’s something of a niche category, but then so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it.

> Dongmen Building, 12 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街12号东门下楼 (5785 3538) > Additional location in Shunyi (see online. thatsmags.com for details)

Biteapitta * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and 58 kuai kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.

> Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2

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Raj Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse may look Chinese but everything on the menu is authentic Indian, espcially the rather fine naan. > Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (6401 1675)

Ganges Conveniently located above popular Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid Indian curry house provides the perfect post-match culinary accompaniment. Or put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving after eight pints of beer. > Daily 11am to 10.30pm; Dongzhimen Branch: 2/F, 28 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门 外大街28号2层 (6417-0900) > Additional branch in Sanlitun, see online.thatsmags.com for details.

Indian Kitchen

Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion) Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Taikoo Li Sanlitun then.

> Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B (6416 3439)> Additional branch in Shin Kong Place (see online.thatsmags.com for details)

Nyonya Kitchen (Malaysian, Nyonya) This chain specializes in Nyonya style cooking – ostensibly Malaysian but with a mix of Chinese, South-East Asian and European influences resulting in lots of bold flavors and bright colors. > CBD: EB105, B1/F, China World Mall Phase 1, 1 Jianguomen Wai, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门 外大街1号国贸商城一期地下一层EB105 (6505 0376); Taiyanggong: Unit 10-11, 4/F, CapitaMall Taiyanggong, Chaoyang 朝阳区凯德Mall太阳宫4层 10/11号 (8415 0863,www.nyonyakitchen.com)

Malacca Legend

Hyoki ¥ (Japanese) Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant of all private dining rooms has some stunning food, and is the only place to sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot in Beijing. > 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达 北京酒店6层 (6581 0072)

Korean Ai Jiang Shan This upscale seafood restaurant proves that chargrill and composure can go together. Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute bargain. > Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm; 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建 国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5层 (5109 6036/6037) see www.thatsmags.com for other locations

Vegetarian The go to curry house among Beijing’s homesick Indian community, this ever popular no-nonsense restaurant has built up a solid reputation thanks to its wide range of quality dishes and particularly friendly service. Looking good after a recent rennovation and very available on JinShiSong online delivery. > Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255)

Japanese Hatsune ¥ * (California Japanese) As much a California roll joint as true Japanese, Hatsune is now an old favorite among the sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though less so among sashimi purists. > Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路甲8号 和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939) >Additional locations in Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South; Kerry Centre Mall (see www.online.thatsmags.com for details)

> Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm; Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生 活3层315室 (8517 2838)

> Daily 11am-10pm; 6 Roma Lake: 6 Luodong Lu, Luogezhuang Village, Hoshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义 区后沙峪镇罗各庄村罗马湖东北三路6号C院 (8049 8902); Signature: Shop L203, 2/F, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶2 层L203 (6587 1393)

> Dongcheng: Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. Sanlitun branch: 2 Sanlitun Bei Xiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳区 三里屯北小街2号 (6464 2365); Lido branch: 2F, No.9-3, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路 9-3号2层 (8420 0998)

> Daily noon-11pm; 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)

Inagiku * This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s oldest and most celebrated restaurants is as near to perfection as you’re likely to find.

Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB80) is not to be missed.

Malaysian food with a view, this spacious and airy restaurant sits on the banks of Shunyi’s Roma Lake and at a new unit in the heart of the city at The Place, making a great spot for their beef rendang or green curry prawns.

from some of the best sushi in town?

Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a cut above.

Saveurs de Coree This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone several changes in recent years, not least its move away from the hipper-than-thou confines of Nanluoguxiang. Fortunately, the menu remains largely intact. The Shin Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too good to be true.

> Daily 11am-10pm; 201, Europark Bldg A1(Cafe Bene Building) Guangshun Nandajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang 朝阳区望京园610号楼悠乐汇A座 201室 (6477 7387)

> Daily 11.30am - 10pm, Shop 6-12, 35 Food Street, Ocean Express Building, 66 Xiaguangli, Chaoyang 朝阳区霞光里66号远洋新干线美食街35号6-12铺 (5130 4243)

Pinotage ¥ (South African) * A seasonal blend of Dutch, English and regional African influences, this contemporary and stylish eatery has an impressive selection of fine import-quality meats, and wines to match. The traditional borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork tenderloin makes the trip out to their Shunyi branch worth it.

Indian

Flor de Loto Sleek and chic Vietnamese restaurant – always draws a crowd. DIY fresh spring rolls are a highlight. Worth the ride to Korea-town.

Al Safir 阿拉伯餐厅

> Daily 11am-2am, 3-4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳 区工体北路3-4号 (6532 4050)

> Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm; 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699)

> Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng 西城区豆腐池胡同43 号 旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)

African/Middle Eastern

1001 Nights There’s no missing this beast of a Middle Eastern on the way into Sanlitun. The whole Arabic dining package is on offer here, from kebabs, to shisha to belly dancing shows between courses.

tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, stews, soups and la Vong fish.

Sake Manzo * The barmen here are serious about their sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s toil.

The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. One of the very best and least appreciated restaurants in town.

> Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao, Chaoyang 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436 1608)

Purple Haze (Thai) Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches and backpacker bars, Purple Haze has to make do for the best Thai experience in town. Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood pad Thai (RMB45).

Sui Ka Is this what after-work hangouts are like in Japan? We’re not sure, but we hope so: This charming izakaya nails it when it comes to sake selection and fried delights to munch alongside it.

> Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang 朝 阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)

>Daily 5pm-1am, Ichibangai First Avenue Food Court, Zaoying Nanli, Maizidian, East 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang朝阳区东三环农展馆北路宾都苑 东侧一层底商一番街内 (137 1692 7543)

Susu (Vietnamese) The first step is finding it. Follow that up with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex-

Sushi Yotsuba ** It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu RMB1,000), but what would you expect

Tianchu Maoxiang (Asian) Like many arrivals to Beijing, this place started out in Wudaokou and it’s since made a successful migration to Chaoyang. Great range of veggie fare, reasonably priced and they offer cooking classes as well. > Daily 10am-10pm; 19 Rm 0260, 2/F, Bldg D, Chaowai SOHO, 6B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳门外大街乙6朝外SOHOD座2层 0260 (5900 1288) > Additional location in Wudaokou (see www. online.thatsmags.com for details)

Veggie Table (Western, Asian) * Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine is by no means the exclusive preserve of Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or otherwise – found anywhere in the city. > Daily 10.30am-11.30pm (last order 10.30pm); 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同 19号 (6446 2073)

BARS TOP 40 BARS AND CLUBS About This guide represents our editors’ top 40 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience and affordability.

Arrow Factory The newest craft beer taproom on the block, Arrow Factory is a rustic hideaway brimming with good Anglo-Scandinavian vibes (courtesy of the brew-masters) and the brand’s distinctive Chinese brewed ales.

A winning combination > 38 Jianchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭 厂胡同38号(6407 6308)

8-Bit Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner?

Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable RMB25 a glass.

> Daily 1pm-2am; 13 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东 城区北锣鼓巷13号 (159 1025 6538)

BBC (Bottle, Boot & Cigar) The brainchild of local spirits professional Douglas Williams, this bar provides the discerning Beijing drinker with a peerless selection of liquor for sale, cocktails and coming soon, shoe shines, cigars and straight-razor shaves.

LISTINGS > 1pm-late. 1 Taipingzhuang Nanli (At Xingfucun, between Frost: Coffee, Nails & Cocktails and Commix Bar), Chaoyang 朝阳区太平庄南里1号 (1861 405 7407, www.bbcbeijing.com)

The Brick A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll find this neighbourhood drinking hole-inthe brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre Wednesday pub quiz.

> Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子 2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)

Capital Spirits A team of non-China natives doing a baijiu bar? Brave and, luckily, brilliant. Lovely hutong setting, friendly owners and great bottle collection.

> Tue-Sun 8pm-late; 3 Da Ju Hutong, Dongcheng 东城 区大菊胡同3号 (6409 3319; www.capitalspirits.com)

China Bar ¥¥ Top views from the 65th floor and flash drinks are the attractions on offer at this hip hotel bar.

> Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国 门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)

CICADA Ultralounge ¥ The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost. > Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9898)

Cu Ju Moroccan-inspired bistro, cocktail destination and sports fan’s manna all rolled into one, Renaissance man Badr Benjelloun’s hutong gem is constantly evolving. Offering North African food with an international cocktails, Beijing’s widest selection of rums and sports broadcasts from basketball to cricket, Cu Ju is truly one of the city’s best all-around bar-restaurants. > Sun-Tue, Thu 5-11pm ;Fri-Sat 5pm-late ; closed Wed. 28 Xiguan Hutong (Hutong entrance is 300m north of subway line 5, Zhangzizhong Lu stop), Dongcheng 东 城区细管胡同28号(6407 9782, www.cujubeijing.com)

Daily Routine 日常生活 This cozy bar is a diamond in the rough.

Owner Travis is a cocktail aficionado, and the drinks at this establishment change seasonally according to ingredient availability.

Light cafe fare is available during the day. > Daily 11am-11pm. 34 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区五道营胡同34号 (8400 1159)

El Nido * The first hutong hang-out to patent the fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly in summer. The roast leg of mutton place next door is one of the best locally. > Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng 东 城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)

Enoterra Looking for an affordable glass of wine with that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s wine center. Although the food leaves a bit to be desired, the selections are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate with that tart glass of vino. > Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园 D405室 (5208 6076)

First Floor First Floor is like that friend who’s too popular to properly enjoy their company.

At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with regulars and the passing tourist trade all baying at the bar. A good place to meet new friends, perhaps.

> Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.floorbeijing.com)

Fubar Slightly past its prime, this basement bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy pretence that made the place its name. Live lounge music and a vast amount of pours are starting to persuade people it’s succeeding. > 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体 北路8号工人体育场东门内 (6593 8227)

Great Leap Brewing 大跃啤酒 ¥ * The bar that began the whole Beijing microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews (RMB25-

40) with intriguing flavors – their Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably good.

Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but the opening of a wildly popular new pub on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers there instead.

> Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6 DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区豆角胡同6号 (5717 1399) ; Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 (6416 6887, www.greatleapbrewing.com)

Glen ¥ Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve endured poor service and drinks that are scandalous at the price), which is located in a decidedly downbeat compound. But whisky lovers have been known to swear by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere.

See for yourself. >Daily 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区南三里屯 路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191)

Glen Classic ¥ Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel, Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky bar where discerning drinkers can sink into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while away the hours. Huge range of whiskies and rums are personally selected by expert owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special. > Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体南路东草园26 号 (6551 6788)

Heaven Supermarket A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You can also hang around and appreciate the afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. > Daily 11-4am. 14 Xindong Lu (next to The James Joyce), Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 6513)

Hidden Lounge * Although frustrating to find, Hidden Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have to call them to find it, though.

> Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang 朝阳区双花园 南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)

Ichikura ¥ One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind a theater also offers terrific cocktails.

Although less expensive than several rivals, you’ll want to indulge. > Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环北路36 号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)

Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * Acclaimed by some foreign press as one of the best bars in the world (cough), this not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard of the South Sanlitun gentrification. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails.

> Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院 ( 6503 2757)

Jing-A Taproom ** In just a few years, these guys developed from shady guerrilla brewers to upstanding publicans with their own range of souvenir T-shirts. Their bar is a peach: a bricks-andmortar taproom, which is large, warm and sociable, and has up to 16 different beers on tap.

Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)

Maggie’s ¥ A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of course, to the hot-dog stand outside), Maggie’s has been providing its special comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also a bastion of Mongolian culture.

> Tue-Sun 1pm-2am; 14 Shanlao Hutong, Dongcheng 东城区美术馆后街山老胡同14号 (6407 8969)

Mai Bar * Understated hutong hideaway with a long list of some of the best cocktails in town.

Hot Cat Club 热力猫 A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot Cat is the type of hard-working venue that helps cement a city’s music scene. From Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open-mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy seats and plenty of space.

> Daily 5pm-late, 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng 东城 区北锣鼓巷40号 (6406 1871)

Parlor Learn a few quotes from Gatsby before heading to this 20s Shanghai-style speakeasy and you’ll fit right in.

> Daily 6pm-2am, 39-8 Xingfuercun, Chaoyang 朝阳区 新东路幸福二村39-8 (8444 4135)

Revolution * Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia would be it. The East may be red but their cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.

> Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝 阳区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)

Salud 老伍 * A Nanluoguxiang institution, with everything from cheap beer to (loud) live music and low beams. The rum infusions are a particular favorite on cold nights. Latest branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.

> NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷 66号 (6402 5086)；Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层

The Irish Volunteer Everything – from the red-faced owner to the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken regret. A good place to down a pint and a pizza before heading into town, then. > Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang 朝阳区将台路311 号 (6438 5581)

The Tree A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.

Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).

> Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往 西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东面 (6415 1954)

Trouble Bar Beijing’s leading venue for imported craft beers. Stocks a large draft selection and an even larger selection of bottles. Also does a nice line in creative cocktails, if brews aren’t your thing. Conveniently located next to Gung-Ho, hosts a full-sized foos-ball table, darts, and plenty of TV’s to accommodate any event, meetings, and gatherings. > 2-101, China View Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang (Next To Gung-Ho) 朝阳区工人体育场东 路乙2号中国红街2-101叫板比萨隔壁 (8590 0390, troublebar@gmail.com, www.trouble.bar)

Slow Boat Brewery Taproom ** This popular microbrewery has its own pub hidden away in Dongcheng’s hutongs.

Quality ales that change depending on the season, heated floors and a great little kitchen round out the deal. > Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 5pm-midnight, Thu 5pm1am, Fri 5pm-late, Sat 2pm-late, Sun 2-10pm; 56 Dongsi Batiao, Dongcheng 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)

10 Best Livehouses

Mao Mao Chong ** The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from Moscow – are unique infusions using local ingredients and know-how. Grungey without being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while still keeping it real. And those pizzas.

School Bar 学校酒吧 * Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.

Mesh ¥ Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior and underground soundtrack draws the bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too). > Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu,

Dusk Dawn Club (DDC) 黄昏黎明俱乐部 Great little livehouse near Meishuguan with a focus on jazz, folk and indie rock.

Craft beer and whisky means you won’t get bored of the drinks list quickly.

> Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南 门 (8562 8142)

> Building B, 1949 The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路4号院

> 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng 东 城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718, www. maomaochongbeijing.com)

Dongcheng 东城区交道口南大街东棉花胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar, jincanzh@ gmail.com)

> Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881, 6406 9947)

Jianghu 江湖酒吧 This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home is exactly where you’d take that friend from out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy atmosphere is also its downfall – any show with under 40 people and you’re stuck looking through the windows. Hip and casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the gethome-for-the-babysitter crowd. > 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie,

> Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng 东城区方家胡同46号 (6400 7868)

MAO Livehouse 光芒 * From the denim-jacketed doorman to the well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar in town, Mao delivers with great sound and the best billings of heavy metal, punk hitting this side of the Drum Tower.

> 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区 鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)

The Post Mountain 后山 Built into a man-made hill in the center of the MOMA Complex, this new addition to Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its imported sound system and ramped floor makes for decent sound and sightlines.

> Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园路1号当代 MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)

Temple 坛 * Probably the manliest venue in town, this dimly lit and unventilated space is owned by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Burger) and known for late sets of hard rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to the RMB15 draught. > Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼202 (131 6107 0713)

Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 * We’ve lost more body weight than we’d care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie outfits from across the globe – were worth it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from the sweat glands below. > Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng 东 城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711）

Sports Bars The Local * Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has come into its own, with large (yet strangely unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.

Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t need another. > Daily 11-2am. 4 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工 体北路4号院 (6591 9525)

Paddy O’Shea’s * An entire Irish-themed pub, which could easily been trasnsported, untouched, from a back alley in Limerick and gently deposited in central Beijing. With plenty going on, including pub quiz and sports.

> Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 (6592 6290); Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)

V Sports Spacious, comfortable, huge screens and no rowdy drunken cretins, V Sports makes a claim for the champion of Beijing sports bars. > Daily 5.30pm-6am, Gongti North Gate East side, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北门内东侧 (5293 0333)

Nightclubs The Bar at Migas * A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get the party started. Good-enough cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about the music, man.

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> Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 (5208-6061)

Chocolate It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women.

Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with bottles of spirits from around RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (including the absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon) and regular floor shows. > Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang 朝阳区日 坛北路19号 (8561 3988)

Dada * It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for too long, but already Dada is the hippest hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines under rock house Temple offer an intimate place to nod along to an eclectic range of all things electro from the best names on the underground scene. > Daily 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室 (183 1108 0818)

Lantern * Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts international electronica DJs.

Wangjing: 11am-9pm, Rm T5, 3/F, BOTAI International Building, 36 Guangshun Bei Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区望京广顺北大街36号博泰国际商业广场3层T—5 (8472 2855)

Alona Pilates Studio Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates offers classes designed to tone and whip you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students, regardless of fitness, strength and flexibility levels. > Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀 酒店五层 ( 139 1029 0260, www.alonapilates.com)

Brad Clinic Welcome to Brad Clinic, Beijing’s unique skincare and anti-aging center. Our professional and personalized treatments rejuvenate the skin safely, naturally and most effectively while restoring your skin’s natural beauty and health. We offer: skin rejuvenation and re-firming, hair removal, acne and sun spots treatment, and wrinkle reduction.

>Tue-Sat 9am-6pm, Room 2103, Tower E1, The Towers, Oriental Plaza, 1 East Chang’An Ave, Dong Cheng 东城区东长安街1号东方广场东方经贸城E1办公 楼2103室 (8518 2103/ 5688, contact@BradClinic.com)

Daisy’s Beauty Salon

> Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场西 门向北100米 (139 119 77989)

Hotel Bars Atmosphere ¥¥ Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. > Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)

Centro ¥ Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place for beautiful people it once was, Centro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated lounge areas and classic drinks like the blue-cheese martini. > Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店1层 (6561 8833)

ZELL BeauCare Clinic 泽尔丽格医疗美容 Overseen by Fellow of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (ASDS), ZELL cosmetic clinic provides state-of-art comprehensive minimal invasive procedures, including, Botox, dermal filler, fractionated laser skin resurfacing, Ulthera skin tightening and lifting, professional skin care treatment (acne, pigmentation, aging), and plastic surgery (including double eyelid, rhynoplasty, among others).

Since 2001, Daisy’s beauty salon has catered to thousands of Beijing expats and locals and is renowned for its premium waxing services and imported wax that smells like hot chocolate. If waxing isn’t your thing, the salon also specializes in an array of other treatments including IPL Facial Rejuvenation and lifting, a 90-minute treatment that uses a laser to stimulate collagen production and soften lines. Laser and IPL permanent hair removal treatment is also proving popular and effective. > Daily, 10am-8.30pm, Rm301, Building B,Sunshine100 International Apartment, Guanghua Donglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华东路2号阳光100国际 公寓B座301室 (5100 0556 / 0557, www.daisysbeautysalon.com)

Luxura Tanning Center This tanning salon has some of the city’s best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan possible, get custom-made tanning tips from the well-trained staff.

> Daily, 10am-10pm. Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环中 路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura. net); 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯 3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.luxura.net)

Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 Cycle China provides organized cycling and hiking tours in and aroundBeijing as well as longer tours throughout China. Some of their more popular tours take cyclists through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs.

>12 Jingshan East Street, Dongcheng 东城区景山东街 12号 (6402 5653 ,139 1188 6524)

California Fitness Beijing Club California Fitness Beijing’s Group X program is among the best in the region, and with membership you have access to over 150 weekly Group X classes and a team of professional personal trainers in Asia. Your membership also includes free towel usage and a fitness assessment. >South Tower, L4, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang (4008 100-988,www,californiafitness.com)

> 209 2/F, zoon3 China World Trade Centre Shopping Mall. 国贸商城区域3二楼209 (8535 1002, 131 4667 9913); 43 Sanlitun Beijie Nan,Chaoyang. 三里屯北街南43号楼 (6409 4243, 135 0137 2971)

Catherine de France

> www.heyrobics.com, info@heyrobics.com

Yihe 42° Hot Yoga

Lily Nails

Awarded best expat salon in 2014/ 2015, with a trained team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians, this salon welcomes all ages and budgets in a modern and relaxed atmosphere for a wide range of hair and beauty treatments, include manicure, pedicure and waxing.

Wella, SP, INOA, TIGI Language: French, English, Spanish, Chinese, Russian.

> East Avenue BLD Ground Floor, No.10 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区新东路10号逸盛阁首层(8442 5120, 135 2147 3492, eastavenue@catherinedefrance.com, Wechat: CDFSalon, www.catherinedefrance.com)

BEAUTY & FITNESS

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The salon is a cut above, thanks to skills of experienced French stylist Laurent Falcon.

Guys/girls. Blow-dry, up-dos, highlights, coloring available. L’Oreal, Schwarzkopf, KeraSraight, Inoa. RMB165-980 women, RMB115-468 men.

Heyrobics “Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs.

The only fitness craze worth following in Beijing, Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing classes for all abilities, check online for the full schedule.

Mon-Wed 6pm-2am, Thu-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 5pmmidnight; 5F Rosewood Beijing, Jing Guang Centre, Hujialou, Chaoyang District朝阳区呼家楼一号京广中 心北京瑰丽酒店3层 (6536 0083)

> Sanlitun: 11am-9pm, 2/f, Bldg 3, Sanlitun SOHO, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工体北路三里屯Soho3 号楼2层217 (5785 3711, jusonghao@hotmail.com);

HAIR SALONS Laurent Falcon

> For more information, visit www.beijinghikers.com

MEI One of the livelier hotel bars in town, MEI has a nightly band, serves creatively delicious cocktails and overlooks the CCTV ‘trousers.’ Don’t leave without trying the frightfully delicious Panjiayuan Bramble.

Black Golden Tanning Studio 古铜日晒中心 Beijing is hardly the best place to pick up a natural tan. When it finally reaches the warm summer, the sun’s rays struggle to penetrate the smog. Thankfully, Black Golden Tanning Studio is on hand to give you that golden glow with its quick, safe and effective technology. With a membership card, enjoy a 50-minute session for RMB400 and come away with natural, healthy-looking color.

> Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang 朝阳区农南路1号朝 阳公园网球中心(400 6406 800/ 6595 8885, www. broadwell.cn1)

Sport

> Daily 8pm-6am, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (6506 9888, 6530 2889, 150 1138 2219, mixclub@sohu.com)

> Daily 8.30pm late, Inside Worker’s Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育场北门内 (5293 0333)

Beijing Hikers Want to experience the wild, unrestored Great Wall, away from the tourist masses?

Or do you just want to get out of the city for some exercise? Beijing Hikers offers hikes in the countryside of Beijing every week all year round. Hikes for all fitness levels! Regular hikes are priced from RMB380, with discounts for members. Cost includes hiking guide, transportation, tickets, food and water. We’ve also got adventures all over China.

Center, this indoor club boasts a complete state-of-the-art air-supported structure for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, with an advanced lighting system and controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking to perfect their service and batting a few balls.

> Unit 2002, 1/F, Vantone Center, 6A Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳门外大街甲6号万通 中心AB座一层2002 (5907 3390,186 1248 3390, www. zellbeauty.com)

MIX A bit like a trip to the Forbidden City, Mix is one of those places in Beijing you have to experience before you leave. Not much is forbidden in this underground hip-hop disco palace and if you don’t leave with hook-up in tow then you’re doing something very wrong.

Vics Separated at birth from its identical twin brother, Mix, this is the definition of Gongti sweatbox meat-market chic at its very finest. The Chinese love it – as do moody Russians and jailbait students – helping Vics to become one of the most infamous clubs in the capital.

阳区三里屯工体北路世茂购物中心3层E-301号(8590 0569 ); Ginza store: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop B1-11H, Ginza Mall, Dongzhimen, Dongcheng 东城区东直门东 方银座Mall B1-11H号(8447 7178) ; CapitaMall Crystal store: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop B1-09,CapitaMall Crystal, Haidian 海淀区复兴路51号凯德晶品购物中心 B1-09号(8819 7078); CapitaMall Wangjing store: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop K01, 2/F, CapitaMall Wangjing store, Guangshun Beidajie, Chaoyang 朝阳区广顺北大 街凯德望京购物中心2层02-K1(5602 0736) ; Carrefour Siyuanqiao store: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop 08, 3/F, Carrefour Siyuanqiao store,Yiju Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 四元桥家乐福购物中心3层08号(647 71889)

A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a nail spa; they eyelash services, of pampering treatments and waxing too.

>3.3 Flagship store: Daily 11am-11pm, Shop 5009, 5/F, 3.3 Fashion Plaza, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三 里屯3.3大厦5层5009号(5136 5919); 3.3 Star store: Daily 11am-11pm, Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 Fashion Plaza, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯3.3大厦2层2049 号(5136 5829); Yashow shopping mall: Daily 10am10pm, Shop 22, 4/F, Yashow shopping Mall, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯雅秀购物中心4层22号(6416 6441); Shimao store: Daily 10am-10pm, Shop E301, 3/F, ShiMao shopping center, Sanlitun, Chaoyang 朝

SPA & MASSAGE

2 locations in Beijing: the best Yoga for Beginners! No previous experience necessary - and if your body is a bit stiff – that’s okay!

Yihe knows it can be a little intimidating to begin your journey into Yoga, so they are available to answer any questions you may have. It’s a great workout for the body and calming for the mind. Call them today on (5905 6067, 8599 7395)

Ann Jema Trailblazing French spa institute Ann Jema Spa uses special Arabian oil ingredients for a one-of-a-kind experience. The ‘superior life energy experts’ offer a wide range of luxurious treatments for all ages.

Broadwell International Tennis Academy Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis

Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat Created as a contemporary urban retreat, Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.

> Daily 10am-8pm. 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际 中心南写字楼2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.yh42.com); 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6065/67, www.yh42.com)

> 162-166, F/2, Bldg 1, No. 6 Yard, Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号 蓝色港湾国际商区1号楼Solana商场2楼162-166号 (5905 6227)

LISTINGS > Daily 10am-late. 60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng 东 城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场) (6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒店一 层 (6593 6066); Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang 朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路 北100米) (8532 3122)

Beijing HarMoniCare Women and Children’s Hospital 北京和美妇儿医院

Orchid Spa Purify your mind, body and soul at Orchid Spa, an authentic Thai spa in the heart of Sanlitun. Orchid’s Thai massage therapists use quality hand-made oils to deliver an extraordinary experience. Services include wifi, complimentary tea and dessert, and on-site underground parking.

> Daily noon-midnight, Sanlitun SOHO Tower 5, B1532, 8 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区工人体育北路 8号三里屯SOHO五号商场B1-532 (Reservation only: 5785 3123, service@orchidspa.cn)

Angel Hands Massage Center

> Wi-Fi available. Chaoyang: 2 Xiaoguan Beili, Beiyuan Lu 北苑路小关北里甲2号 (6499 0000. contact@hmcare.org, en.hmcare.net)

> Dongsishitiao: 9/F, Office Tower, Hongkong Macau Center-Swiss Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Bei Dajie 朝阳门 北大街2号 港澳中心瑞士酒店办公楼9层 (6553 9752, 6553 2288/2345/6/7; service@hkclinic.com; www. hkclinic.com)

> Room 301, Building 5, JianwaiSOHO, CBDGuomao, Chaoyang 朝阳区国贸建外SOHO, 5号楼301 (138 1182 1008)

HEALTH SERVICES Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality inpatient facilities, home visits, night services and transportation assistance, Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Englishspeaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics. > 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西 路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www. amcare.com.cn)

American-Sino OB/GYN/Pediatrics Services 北京美华妇儿医院

Raffles Medical International SOS and Raffles Medical Group have formed a joint venture to enhance and expand the services of its China Clinics. From March 30 the International SOS clinics in China will be branded and operated by Raffles Medical with expanded services to all patients and privileged access for International SOS members. Patients of the clinic will continue to have access to the same doctors, the same facilities and same level of high quality care.

Raffles Medical Group is a leading medical provider in Singapore and has been operating for 40 years with over 100 clinics and hospitals in Asia. The joint venture is committed to maintain the high standard of quality with a focus on innovative and expanded clinical services and excellent patient care. > Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang 朝阳区新源里16号琨莎中心1座 105室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos. com)

OASIS International Hospital OASIS International Hospital specializes in serving the expatriate community with the latest world-class technology and a broad range of services, all in a pristine facility designed to provide patients with the utmost comfort, care and privacy. > Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985 0333, www.oasishealth.cn)

> 18 anyuan road,chaoyang district,Beijing 北京市朝 阳区安苑路18号 (8443 9666, bj.americanobgyn.com)

DENTAL

Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Established in 1993, the International Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert team of foreign doctors, offering a wide range of medical services, including family medicine, psychological services, dental, ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken.

Arrail Dental Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple locations across town and excellent facilities make it one of the best dental providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. Dental services including examinations, whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.

> 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎 中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com)

Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics 北京和睦家医院

> Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm; 2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区将台路2号. (5927 7000 / 5927 7120 Emergency Hotline);United Family CBD Clinic和睦家朝外诊所 Mon-Sat, 9.30am-6.30pm, Suite 3017, Building AB, Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号万通中心 AB座2层3017室(5907 1266); Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center和睦家建国门保健中心, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sun 8:30am-5pm, 21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1, The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel朝阳区建国门外大 街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店 ( 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 Immigration Clinic ); Shunyi Clinic和睦家顺义诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5.30pm, Sat and Sun, 9.30am-4.30pm.Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区 天竺开发区荣祥广场806号(8046 5432); Shunyi Dental Clinic顺义牙科诊所, Wi-fi internet, Mon-Sat, 9.30am7.30pm, Pinnacle Plaza, Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广 场818号 (8046 1102) ; Liangma Clinic亮马诊所 , Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm, 2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19 Dongfang East Road朝阳区东方东路19号 1号楼会所27号 外交人员公寓B区官舍16号 (5927 7005 www.ufh.com.cn, patientservices@ufh.com.cn)

>Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. NB210, 2/F, CBD, Guomao, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie建外 大街1号国贸商城地下2层 (6505 9439/31/93, www. sdmdental.com); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.Olympic Area,F0186B, Sunshine Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)亚运村安立路68号阳光广场东侧 (6497 2173,6498 2173) ; Mon-Sun 10am-19pm.LB07-08, Euro Plaza, No.99 YuXiang Road,Shunyi 北京顺义区 天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场LB07-08号 (8046 6084); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm. FC222, 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liang Maqiao Lu,Sanyuanqiao 亮马桥40号21世纪饭 店2层 (6466 4814, 6461 2745); Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.

4076B, 4/F, New Yansha Mall, Yuanda Lu,Haidian 远 大路金源燕莎购物中心Mall4层4076B (8859 6912/13); Mon-Sun, 10am-7pm, Rm 5, 3/F, North Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli 北京朝阳区光华 东里8号中海广场北楼3层05号(5977 2488)

Dongcheng 东城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区 职工大学208办室 (6525 9932/6526 7539) ; Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义 区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 0307)

The Frontiers School

IDC Dental

Hongkong International Medical Clinic, Beijing 北京港澳国际医务诊所

Let us release your stress and make you smile wherever you go... Aroma Soothes Therapy Massage, Rose Oil (RMB 280/min); Aroma Relaxation Massage; Aroma Lomi Lomi; Deep Relaxation Massage; Happy Hour at weekend, all services are 20% off.

Our masseuses will know how to pamper you and attend to your every need.

accepted.

>Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东南角京 汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang 朝阳 区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 6473); Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian 海淀区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯 中心A座308室 (8286 1956); Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国 路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 1/F, Somerset Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑 1层 (8440 1926)

United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital in Lido (which has its own dental clinic onsite). A comprehensive range of services are at hand, including restorative dentistry and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all appointments.

> 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi 北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)

SDM Dental 固瑞齿科 The full spectrum of dentistry. Services include teeth cleaning, root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction, teethwhitening and veneers. Credit cards

>Daily: 9am-6pm, Room 209, Bldg 7, Richmond Park Clubhouse, Fangyuan Nanli, Chaoyang 朝阳区芳园 南里丽都水岸会所209 (6538 8111, info@idcdentalbj. com)

Joinway Dental A reputable and trusted dental practice, Joinway Dental provides the perfect combination of cutting edge technology and comfortable treatment, while maintaining the strictest sanitary and sterilization processes. The clinic uses high-quality imported materials, and its professional, US-trained staff offers a personalized and private service.

> Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm; 11D, Building D, Oriental Kenzo Plaza (Ginza Mall), 48 Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座D座 11D (8447 6092/93, mobile:1326 181 6708, joinway@dentalcn.com, www.dentalcn.com)

EDUCATION International Schools The British School of Beijing 北京英国学校 The British School of Beijing, established in 2003, has campuses in Shunyi (primary & secondary) and Sanlitun (primary). BSB offers an enhanced English National Curriculum to 1,500 expatriate students, aged 1 to 18, beginning with Early Years Foundation Stage, Primary, Secondary, IGCSE exams in Year 10 and 11 and the International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma programme in Year 12 and 13. Admission & Fees: RMB102,993246,057. Contact our Admissions team to arrange a school tour.

> Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pm, South Side, 9 An Hua Street, Shunyi 顺义区安华街9号南侧 (8047 3558, www.britishschool.org.cn, admissions@britishschool.org.cn)

Canadian International School of Beijing 北京加拿大国际学校 Located in the Third Embassy Quarter of downtown Beijing, the Canadian International School of Beijing (CISB) opened its doors in September 2006. This world-class facility offers an internationally recognized Canadian & IB PYP, IB MYP and IBDP education. The Canadian International School of Beijing develops the whole child in an environmentally sensitive school within a kind, caring community to become a citizen of the world. > 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区亮马桥路38 号 (6465 7788,www.cisb.com.cn)

Springboard International Bilingual School 君诚国际双语学校 Springboard International Bilingual School is a place where children, staff and parents work in partnership to enable all their students to realize their full potential. They are offering a stimulating and full international curriculum as well as an exciting after school program, which will include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and fitness and football. > 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 2450; www.sibs.com.cn, office@sibs.com.cn)

Western Academy of Beijing 京西国际学校 The Western Academy of Beijing (WAB) is a creative and innovative IB World School built upon a solid foundation of core values and our mission to Connect, Inspire, Challenge; Make a Difference. Our students exemplify these values through their awareness of the world around them, service to others, can-do spirit and commitment to excellence. WAB graduates are accepted into world-class colleges and universities across the globe. > 10 Lai Guang Ying Dong Lu, Chao Yang 朝阳区来广 营东路10号(5986 5588)

Mandarin Schools Beijing Juncheng Language School 北京君诚语言学校 > Room 208, 1 Panjiapo Hutong, Chaoyangmenwai,

Join the friendly and professional team at Frontiers, who’ve been teaching Mandarin for 11 years. > 3/F, Bldg 30, Dongzhongjie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng 东城区东直门外东中街30号三层 (6413 1547, www.frontiers.com.cn, frontiers@frontiers. com.cn)

Beijing Mandarin Language School Established in 1998, Beijing Mandarin School is the city’s top institute for teaching spoken and written Mandarin as a second language. More than 5,000 students from over 66 countries and more than 80 companies and embassies have successfully learned with us each year. > Guangming Hotel School: Room 0709, 7/F Guangming Hotel (near the U.S Embassy) 朝阳区 光明饭店7层0709 (8441 8391; info@beijingmandarinschool.com; www.beijingmandarinschool.com; Skype: beijingmandarinschool1998)

The Bridge School 北京桥汉语言学校 >The Bridge School Head office, Room 503, 5/F, Guangming Hotel, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝 阳区亮马桥路42号光明饭店5层503室(153 2179 3321 Grettchin)

Kindergartens House of Knowledge International Kinde garten (HOK) House of Knowledge International kindergarten (HOK) has locations in both Shunyi and Chaoyang. Both locations offer a Kindergarten program for children aged 10 months to 6 years (Pre-school). Students are treated as competent learners and the school emphasizes critical thinking and collaboration skills, in an environment where children “Lean to Learn”. In additional, the Shunyi location also has a elementary school starting from grade 1 in September 2014. > Quanfa Gardens Campus: North gate of Quanfa compound, 15 Maquanying, Chaoyang District 朝 阳区马泉营15号泉发花园北门(6431 8452, www. hokschools.com);Victoria Gardens Campus: 15 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 区朝阳公园西路15号维多利亚花园公寓(6538 2624, www.hokschools.com)

EtonKids International Kindergarten 伊顿国际幼儿园 > LidoRoom C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 (6436 7368 www.etonkids.com) ;3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区光华 路世贸国际公寓D座3层 ( 6506 4805) ; Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角(8437 1006); Kehui Lu, Chaoyang, Beijing 朝阳区科荟路大屯里 社区(8480 5538) ;Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 (6533 6995); Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu Chaoyang 朝阳区朝阳公 园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓 (6539 8967); Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng东 城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 (6749 5008); Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing Chaoyang朝阳区望 京宝星园国际社区2期 (8478 0578); Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu Shunyi 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧 天北路阿凯笛亚庄园1座(8047 2983); 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社 区内 (5870 6779)

3e International 北京3e国际学校

>9-1 Jiangtai Xilu Chaoyang 朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四 德公园旁) (6437 3344 , www.3eik.com)

Bookstores The Bookworm * This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and event space always has a cultured evening on its shelves for both adults and kids. > Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)

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CLASSIFIEDS ACCOMMODATION Ascott Raffles City Beijing Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the second embassy district, which is rich in cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute drive to The Forbidden City.

Other nearby leisure attractions include Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife district. > No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street Dongcheng District Tel: 8405 3888 Ascott Raffles City Chengdu > No. 3, Section 4, South Renmin Road, Wuhou District, Chengdu 610041, China Post code: 610041 Telephone:(86-28) 6268 2888 Facsimile:(86-28) 6268 2889 GDS Code: AZ Reservations Telephone:400 820 1028 (China toll-free) ;(86-512) 6763 1021 Email:enquiry.china@the-ascott.com Lusongyuan Hotel A traditional compound of quadrangle composing of 5 courtyards which lies in the "hutong" area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous for its imperial living taste of the Qing Dynasty with a history of nearly 170 years. The original owner of this large private house was the Grand General SenggeRinchen, who lived here while he carried out top official duties, such as defense minister. > Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 Address: No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng District 东城区宽街板厂胡同22号 www.the-silk-road.com E-mail: webmaster@the-silk-road.com Lee Garden Service Apartments A newly renovated high-end premier living residence in a central location next to the shopping and cultural sites of Beijing’s Wangfujing, suites range from studios to 4-bedroom apartments (60-610sqm in size) and are tastefully furnished with specially selected materials. > 18 Jinyu Hutong, Wangfujing, Dongcheng (100m East of Sun Dong An Plaza) 东城区 王府井金鱼胡同18号 (新东安东侧100米); 24hr front desk: 6525 8855, Fax: 6525 8080, general.manager@lgapartment.com, www. lgapartment.com) FraserResidence CBD East Beijing Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with excellent connections to the subway line 1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and public bus system mean that wherever your intern needs to be in the city, getting there is relatively fuss free!

One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 / month Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality. com > Website: http:>beijing-east frasershospitality.com Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 FraserSuite CBD Beijing The ultimate luxury in apartment living, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style and comfort, that surpasses the service level of many Beijing hotels. The 357 Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. > 12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 5908 6000 GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC Residence is located beside the third ring road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line 5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is

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also within easily reach of CBD, embassy area, Financial Street and other urban commercial,shopping and recreation areas.

Fully equipped apartments with impeccable quality offer you a cozy living system and will meet all of your requirements for room decoration, furniture, electric appliances etc..

Unique sky garden with golf practice field and barbecue area is another symbol of GTC Residence. > E-mail: sales@gtcresidence.com website: www.gtcresidence.com Tel:56756666 Lanson Place Lanson Place Central Park Serviced Residences, located in the Central Business District of Chaoyang, offers spacious apartments in two, three and four bedroom configurations as well as penthouses overlooking a charming landscaped garden.

The interiors are contemporary and restful while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens are fully equipped. > Website: www.lansonplace.com Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 Marriott Executive Apartments Ideally located in the center of Wangfujing area where the prestigious business, commercial, entertainment, and shopping center of Beijing. The Imperial Mansion, Beijing – Marriott Executive Apartments reflects an exceptional level of luxury. > Gate, No. 1 Xiagongfu Street, Dongcheng District Tel: 6564 9999 The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza The Millennium Residences of the Beijing Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of the Beijing CBD which bears the most momentously potential of development and value elevation. While 25 minutes away from the Beijing International Airport, the Millennium Residences is walking distance from nearly all Embassies. > 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District.

Tel: 8588 2888 Oakwood Residence Beijing Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406 fully equipped luxury apartments ranging from studios to four bedroom penthouse and terrace apartments, all exquisitely furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art air purification and air conditioning system which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered air, so you can trust in Oakwood and breathe easy. > No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District, Beijing 100027, China reschaoyang@oakwoodasia.com Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999 THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES The Westin Executive Residences at The Beijing Financial Street offer an array of world-class cuisine options and Westin’s signature amenities designed to elicit personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the airport, the Westin Executive Residences provides direct access to Beijing’s business, entertainment and shopping district and close proximity to cultural landmarks such as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Each apartment is also fitted with contemporary furnishings, fully equipped kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home entertainment system and LCD flat screen televisions. > Email: reservation.beijing@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial Tel: 6606 8866

BUSINESS CENTER Regus Serviced Office 雷格斯服务式办公室 •Flexible office leases from 1 day to 1 year •Quick and easy to set up for 1-200 people •Prices from RMB180 per month •Find more on Regus.cn •Tel: 400 120 1207 >> BEIJING (20 LOCATIONS) << Lei Shing Hong Plaza [New] 北京利星行广场 5/F, Tower C, Lei Shing Hong Plaza, No.8 Wangjing Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场C座5层 Sun Dong An Plaza [New] 北京新东安广场 7/F, Office Tower 2, Sun Dong An Plaza, No.138 Wangfujing, Avenue, Dongcheng District 北京市东城区王府井大街138号新东安广场写 字楼2座7层 Zhongyu Mansion [New] 北京中宇大厦 6/F, Zhongyu Mansion, No.6 North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦6层 Diplomatic [New] 北京亮马桥外交办公大楼 17/F, Tower E, Liangmaqiao, Diplomatic Office Building, 3rd Embassy District, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区第三使馆区亮马桥外交办公大 楼E座17层 Kerry Centre - South Tower [New] 北京嘉里中心-南楼 10/F, South Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心南楼10层 Landgent Building [Coming Soon] 北京乐成中心 5/F, Block A, Landgent Center, No.20 East Middle 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东三环中路20号乐成中心A座5 层 China World Tower 3 北京国贸三期 15/F, China World Tower 3, No.1 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心3座 15层 Lufthansa Centre 北京燕莎中心 C203, Lufthansa Centre, No.50 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C203 Kerry Centre 北京嘉里中心 11/F, North Tower, Kerry Centre, No.1 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心北楼11层 Pacific Century Place 北京盈科中心 14/F, IBM Tower, No.2A North Workers Stadium Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区工体北路甲2号IBM大厦14层 China Central Place 北京华贸中心 9/F, Tower 2, China Central Place, No.79 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国路79号华贸中心2号楼9层 Parkview Green 北京侨福芳草地中心 15/F, Office Building A Parkview, Green, No.9 Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东大桥路8号芳草地办公楼A座 15层 China Life Tower 北京中国人寿大厦中心 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 厦5层

China Life – West 北京中国人寿大厦-西 West, 5/F, China Life Tower, No.16 Chaoyangmenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大 厦5层西区 IFC 北京财源国际中心 10/F, IFC East Tower, No.8 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲8号财源国际中 心东座10层 Prosper Center 北京世纪财富中心 6/F, Tower 2, Prosper Center, No.5 Guang Hua Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区光华路5号世纪财富中心2号楼6 层 Financial St. Excel Centre 北京金融街卓著中心 12/F, Financial Street Excel, Centre, No.6 Wudinghou Street, Xicheng District 北京市西城区武定侯街6号卓著国际金融中心 12层 NCI Centre 北京新华保险大厦中心 15/F, NCI Tower, No.12A Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区建国门外大街甲12号新华保险 大厦15层 Taikang Financial Tower 北京泰康金融大厦 23/F, Taikang Financial Tower, No.38 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区东三环北路38号泰康金融大厦 23层 Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower 北京中关村欧美汇大厦 7/F, Metropolis Tower, No.2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone, Haidian District 北京市海淀区中关村西区东三街2号欧美汇大 厦7层 Servcorp Smart businesses understand that flexibility is the future of the workplace. They choose the world's finest Serviced Offices to grow their businesses, run critical projects and give their people flexibility.

Level 26 Fortune Financial Center, 5 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang 朝阳区 东三环中路5号财富金融中心26层 (Servcorp. com.cn; tel: 5775 0310; fax: 5775 0350) Need flexible and affordable ready workspace to enhance your business or register a representative office for your temporary projects in Beijing? We have the perfect solution. Located within a Grade-A building in the popular Lufthansa Business Area, our work-spaces provide you, or your company, with the ideal business identity, and most importantly, come with the most competitive rates to minimize your cost and risks.

Please contact: > Gateway Plaza, Tower A, Suite 16D , NE 3rd Ring Road, Chaoyang 朝阳区东三环 北路霞光里18号佳程广场A座16D T:01084400606 M:15910782518 Cynthia LU CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center We have 10 years experience in managing serviced offices in the Asia and Pacific region, and our headquarters is in Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business center in China . We are mainly providing fully renovated and equipped offices to clients for immediate use, and all the serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum flexibility and complete smart office system to help our clients save cost. We also provide virtual offices, meeting room and conference room, video conferencing, incorporation services and many other services.

Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building, Taiyanggong, Beijing Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591

LISTINGS Email: sales.beijing@corporateso.com Website: www.csochina.cn Tel: 86 10 64697000

BEAUTY SERVICES Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun Branch Grand Opening Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s, to bring a continuous tanning effect 25% above standard machines with unique aquacool and aroma functions, we provide customers with the safest and most comfortable tanning space. > Open time:11:00-21:00 Sanlitun SOHO Branch Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun SOHO,Chaoyang District Tel: 57853711 Wangjing Branch Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District Website: www.bjtanning.com Tel: 84722855 LA BELLEZA La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in Spanish. Professional hair-designers from Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.

LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent service, and finest products.

New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!

Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.

Website: www.labelleza.com.cn Tel: 010 8522 1626 MegaSun Tanning Salon As the only flagship store for this popular German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning will provide for each client the finest sun tanning experience.

Our center has prepared the newest functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy chamber systems, combined with easyCare optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our professional UV and tanning services. > 8 Dongdaqiao Road, sShangdu SOHO North Tower, Rm. 2302 Chaoyang District, Beijing Website: www.imegasun.com e-mail: 1019771453@qq.com Sina Weibo: @麦肤堂 Tel: 5900-2236/2238

CAR RENTAL SERVICE Beijing First Choice Car Rental Service Co., Ltd We offer short and long term vehicle leasing services for both business and sightseeing. Our commpany could provide the latest elite, high-end vehicles such as Mercedes Benz S300, BMW S5 and more!

Contact our friendly representatives for more information.

Tel: 138 1015 6525/6434 0778 www.fccars.cn fccars@live.cn Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd Beijing Top-A Vehicle Service provides: *English -speaking driver *Long-short term leasing *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan, Van and Bus We, ES-PATS Life Group, also serves with Mandarin, housemaid, Visa, driver, driving license, vehicle registration service.

Tel: 6438 1634, 1350 123 7292, service@ expatslife.com www.expatslife.com Beijing Top Rate Car Rental Service Co., Ltd *Long/Short term leasing *Daily car service *Sifht-seeing car service, Tailor-made car service *Airport-Pick up/Drop off *Sedan (Audi A6, Audi A6L, VWPassat, Accord, Lacross 2.4, Benz MB100, Benz Vito, Hyundai) and Buses *Native drivers with good English *More information please contact Tel:6504 7266/6504 7256 FAx:6504 7256 www.sxsdcar.com Email:car-rental@live.com

CONSULTING SERVICE

Harris Corporate Services Ltd Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong Kong Established since 1972 WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up Accounting & Tax Compliance Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening Serving all your business needs for investing in China. Call us for a free consultation.

Beijing EX-PATS Service Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency and 24- hour English service. Medical and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese driving license, vehicle registration. service@expatslife.com Website: www.expatslife.com Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292

MOVING AND SHIPPING

Tel: (86)10-6591 8087 Mobile: 186-019-43718 Email: info.bj@harrissec.com.cn Beijing: Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC. 北京市朝阳区光华路12号数码01大厦2302 室 Shanghai: Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC. 上海市静安区延安中路841号东方海外大厦 904室 Guangzhou: Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3 Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC. 广州市中山二路3号(东山口)粤运大厦11楼 D-E室 Hong Kong: 7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong. 香港德辅道中161-167号香港贸易中心7楼 MHI China LTD 凯特威（北京）咨询有限公司 Room 971, 9/F，Poly Plaza，No.14， Dogzhimen Nan Dajie，Dongcheng 东城区 东直门南大街14号保利大厦写字楼9层971室 (6551 0663) Beijing Office-TMF Group In order to enable clients benefit from the increasing globalization of the worlds economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative outsourcing services in 67 counties across the globe. With a genuine global network and qualified staff, TMF group provides an array of accounting, corporate secretarial and HR administrative outsourcing services. > Colin.Zhang@TMF-group.com Website: www.tmf-group.com CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7 Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang District Tel: 65330533-860

FURNITURE Crossover Crossover Center Flagship Store, is mainly marketing international super home furnishing brand products.

Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau, Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini, Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over 20 international super home furnishing brands.

Our products are covered with all of fields in daily-life home furnishing, including furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and office supplies etc.

Website: www.crossovercenter.com NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C. Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123

HOUSEKEEPING JNY Home Service JNY Home Service was established in 2007, supplying foreign families with English speaking/non-English Speaking nannies(maids), either daily or live-in.

As a part of our service,we make sure all references and ID cards are thoroughly checked to guarantee the safety and health of your family.

Email : jieniyou@hotmail.com Mobile: 13426362833(24h)

Asian Tigers Mobility Is an international relocation specialist started in 1988 handling visa and immigration, orientation, home finding, international, domestic and local moves and settling in services in China. We are FAIM & ISO 9001-2008 accredited, members of the OMNI and FIDI which gives us the global representation.

Contact us: Tel: (8610) 6415 1188 E-mail:general.pek@asiantigers-china.com Website: www.asiantigers-mobility.com

STORAGE China Self Storage Co. Ltd As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international industry standard to professionally developed Self Storage for private, family and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned, 24h access, flexible size. To learn more, visit www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make a reservation, contact 400-600-6378 info@ selfstorageinchina.com.

Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd., Shunyi District, Beijing.

Koala Ministorage Koala Ministorage is the first professional self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn more, visit our website www.koalaministorage.com. To make a reservation, call us toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at questions@koalaministorage.com, or visit one of our stores.

REAL ESTATE AGENTS JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION SERVICE We are one of China’s leading real estate agencies boasting an extensive database of high-end properties for rent. We have helped thousands of expatriates find their homes as well as hundreds of companies re-locate their employees. Once we have found you your ideal home we will be on hand to deal with any post move issues and our dedicated after sales team will be contactable 7 days a week to help you with any queries you have throughout your stay in our country. > For more information please contact us: Email: paulquin@joannarealestate.com.cn Website: http:>beijing.joannarealestate. com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971) Replus-Benchmark “Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading real estate agencies and relocation service provider for expatriates in Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and Shenzhen.

• Residential Home Search Service • Visa Application • Commercial Office Space Search Service • Buying and Selling Property Service E-mail: marketing@replus-benchmark.com Website: www.replus-benchmark.com

> A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District Beijing Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577 Silk Road Travel Management Ltd. Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing Silk Road tours and other classic routes in China. Founded in 1997, we are specialized in tailor making travel packages that allow travellers to truly experience the local cultures and explore the amazing heritages. Whether you are a small group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, our professional staff will tailor make the tour programme based on your needs.

Email: travel@the-silk-road.com www.the-silk-road.com TUI China An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s leading tourism group, TUI China was established in late 2003 as the first joint venture with foreign majority share in the Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters are in Beijing whilst its operations reach deep into the far corners of China. World of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and provides M.I.C.E services for renowned companies worldwide. > Add: Bright China Chang An Building, Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email: sales@tui. cn; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel: 8519 8800

CATERING SERVICES Aurora Catering An 100% authentic Italian experience whether tasting a mouthful Lasagna or a juicy Carpaccio. Our international team brings to you the authentic freshness and tidbit of an Italian Espresso or a homemade tastiness of a Mozzarella.

We offer a full range of catering and event planning services for all types of business and personal functions that are tailored for you. The best service, at your service.

Contact Jacopo Tomé at 137 1794 0458 jacopo.tome@gptinternational.com Zone de Comfort With our professional service, you can focus 100% on your event at Zone de Comfort, every single assignment is unique for us.

Our experience helps us understand your objectives with thorough planning, and of course, exquisite food with elegant presentation.

In the past 5 years, we have handled numerous catering projects covering diplomatic/business functions for embassies, high-end cocktail receptions for luxuries brands, automobiles and monthlong hospitality center services. Find out more from our Website: www.zdc-catering. com

HEALTH FOODS E & L Healthy E & L Healthy provides safe and fresh vegetables of your choice up to twice a week (Monday/Thursday) together with fresh, handmade tofu, sesame oil, peanut oil or free-range eggs direct to your home.

Call Ellen to try our free trial box at 189 1178 0063, or email: customer@ ailinhesheng.com

TRAVEL SERVICES Beijing Trans-World Air Service Co.Ltd. Established in February 2005 and approved by the Civil Aviation Administration of China, we are an aggregator of international and domestic air, global hotel reservations and big business travel.

With sales rankings in the top ten and having earned the title of major proxies of worldwide airlines, we are well-known for our top-notch service. We offer online booking, hotel inquiry and reservations and a varity of travel-related services. > G8, First Floor, China Resources Building, 8 Jianguomenbei Avenue, Chaoyang 朝阳区建国门北大街8号华润大厦一层G8 tel: 8519 2468/2469/2470/2471/2472; fax: 6518 2589; renwoxing26@viptkt.com; www.viptkt.com; WeChat: twas08314854

W W W.T H AT S M A G S . C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 6 | 7 9

Spend time with friends and family

Sanlitun

CBD

My job as a highpowered exec

Have you ever called Gulou “sooo 2013”?

Hutongs

What kind of local culture?

Tongzhou

I moved to a remote artists’ colony ages ago

Yes

Uh, no?

by Noelle Mateer

Wudaokou

Study

Dashilar

Gulou

WHICH PART OF BEIJING SHOULD YOU LIVE IN?

Explore local culture

My parents’ jobs – I just party

Where do you get all that money?

Louis Vuitton

Where?

shop

What do you like to do for fun?

e re St a r t H

Shunyi

Football fields

Shuang jing

Friends

Gongti

Take tequila shots

What do your friends do?

Lido

Art museums

Where do your kids like to hang out?

Work in small businesses

Family

More friends or more family?