That's Shanghai - November 2019 by That's - Pulse of The City

城市漫步上海英文版11月份国内统一刊号: CN 11-5233/GO

China Intercontinental Press

NOVEMBER 2019

s d n a l r e d Bor Dispa tches fr om the Edge o f

China

that’s Shanghai 《城市漫步》上海版英文月刊

主管单位 : 中华人民共和国国务院新闻办公室 Supervised by the State Council Information Office of the People's Republic of China 主办单位 : 五洲传播出版社地址 : 中国北京北京西城月坛北街 26 号恒华国际商务中心南楼 11 层文化交流中心邮编 100045 Published by China Intercontinental Press Address: 11th Floor South Building, HengHua International Business Center, 26 Yuetan North Street, Xicheng District, Beijing 100045, PRC http://www.cicc.org.cn 社长 President of China Intercontinental Press: 陈陆军 Chen Lujun 期刊部负责人 Supervisor of Magazine Department: 付平 Fu Ping 主编 Executive Editor: 袁保安 Yuan Baoan 编辑 Editor: 朱莉莉 Zhu Lili 发行 Circulation: 李若琳 Li Ruolin Food & Drink Editor Cristina Ng National Arts Editor Bryan Grogan Production Manager Ivy Zhang 张怡然 Designers Joan Dai 戴吉莹 , Nuo Shen 沈丽丽 Contributors Waseem Abbas, Matthew Bossons, Logan R. Brouse, Danish Ejaz, Ryan Gandolfo, Phoebe Kut, Mia Li, Herlina Liu, Justine Lopez, Erica Martin, Valerie Osipov, Benjamin Plafker, Daniel Plafker, Tristan Sapp, Sophie Steiner, Tristin Zhang

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Editor's Note H

e’s got itchy feet and ants in his pants, does Matthew Bossons. When not exploring the best destinations in Asia, or trying to contact aliens using the world’s largest filled-aperture radio telescope in Guizhou, or scuba diving through China’s vast underwater cave system in Guangxi, then he’s off the edges of the Chinese empire, and nosing around in its neighbors’ backyards. Find out what lies south (and north, east and west) of the border from p38. A little closer to home, Aron

Solomons takes a long-overdue and much longed-for trip to Thames Town, a surreal replica of an English market town on the outskirts of Shanghai. Hilarity (and Harry Potter sightings) ensue (p10). The wanderlust doesn’t end there – we’ve also got a travel guide to Urumqi from our excellent Explore China guide from p20. If you enjoy that, the book, which covers the whole country, is available to buy by scanning the QR code on the opening page of the piece. What else? The Kooks are

NOVEMBER coming to town (p28). Tibetan film is taking off (p30). Shanghai art week is on the way (p34). Historic Shanghai is yours to explore (p49). Soup is available to warm the cockles when the weather turns (p56). There is always more food and drink to be enjoyed (p58). And that irrepressible alcoholic Logan R. Brouse offers up yet more ways to get you drunk (p63). Enjoy!

Ned Kelly

Hourly updates on news, current affairs and general weirdness from around Shanghai and China. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

facebook.com/ThatsShanghai twitter.com/ThatsShanghai youtube.com/thatsonline #THATSSHANGHAI

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 3

THE WRAP

6 CITY

14 LIFE & STYLE

7 BIG PIGS

15 VINTAGE PRINTS

Why China is breeding huge swine

Lifestyle brand de shanghai

10 THAMES TOWN

20 URUMQI

Putting the trip into day trip

Gateway to the Northwest

24 ARTS

52 EAT & DRINK

28 THE KOOKS

56 SOUL SOUP

Guitarist Hugh Harris

Winter warmers season is nigh

34 ART ATTACK

58 NEW RESTAURANTS

Art021 and West Bund Art & Design

Exploring the latest openings

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38 COVER STORY THE BORDERLANDS Dipatches from the edge of China

P68

64 EVENTS

SAMAJAM Kids Show 2

NOV 15-16 Der Elefantenpups

NOV 15-17

DEC 1

Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Book Fair

Allie X

NOV 8

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CITY Thames Town Potter Spotted, P10

Woohoo Lei! P8

Trowing Shade P9

TALES OF THE CITY

OVERSIZED OINKERS

China Breeds Polar Bear-Sized Pigs as Pork Prices Surge By Ryan Gandolfo

frican Swine Fever (ASF) has taken a major toll on the nation’s pork supply, leading some farmers to ‘go big’ and breed the heaviest swine they can manage. According to Bloomberg, one farm owner named Pang Cong in Nanning, Guangxi is breeding pigs the size of polar bears. Pang’s ‘swollen’ swine, which weighs approximately 500 kilograms, is a part of a herd that’s expected to breed more giant oinkers. In some cases, farm owners can reel in more than RMB10,000 for these massive animals. Over the past year, pig farmers around China have been feeling the pressure to deliver on an increasingly meat-obsessed population. In August 2018, the first cases of ASF were reported in China, which has led to a significant drop in the country’s pig population over the past 14 months. Beijing and local governments have taken measures to stabilize the industry; however, pork prices

are still increasing as a result of the virus. In Jilin province, farmers are raising pigs 50 to 75 kilograms heavier than a normal pig’s average weight (around 125 kilograms), with one farmer telling Bloomberg that the goal is to raise them “as big as possible.” Large-scale farms are also supersizing their swine, as Chinese protein producers try to increase the average weight of their pigs, which could raise profits by more than 30%, according to Bric Agriculture Group Senior Analyst Lin Guofa, cited by Bloomberg. Chinese Vice Premier Hu Chunhua visited Shandong, Hebei and Henan provinces last month to encourage farmers to resume pig production to “ensure a stable market supply,” according to an official announcement on the Central Government’s website. In response to the growing pork crisis, officials in Guangdong implemented 10 measures to stabilize pork prices in September.

One of them was adding 1,600 metric tons of frozen pork reserves into circulation, discounted by 10% of the average market price. As the swine population continues to fall as a result of a growing number of ASFinfected pigs, tapping into pork reserves and supplying the meat to supermarkets, schools and hotels, among other establishments, seems to be the main method of addressing demand. The tactic is expected to keep pork prices relatively stable while the government continues to address the epidemic. To read about Chinese scientists’ breakthrough in the search for a cure for African Swine Fever, scan the QR code.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 7

THE BUZZ DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM? RANDOM NUMBER

Wu Lei

… is how many billions of US dollars Alibaba founder Jack Ma and his family are worth, according to the Hurun China Rich List 2019. The annual report on China’s wealthiest folks was published last month, and revealed quite a shakeup in the top 10. Hurun’s chief researcher referred to China’s wealthiest person list as a “two-horse race,” with Tencent CEO Pony Ma’s wealth valued USD2 billion short of Ma, at USD37 billion. Scan the QR code to see the full list.

The Chinese forward made history last month, becoming the first Chinese national to score in the main stages of a European competition, as he gave Espanyol a 1-0 lead over CSKA Moscow in the UEFA Europa League. The 27-year-old made an angled run to meet a ball from teammate Matías Vargas and dinked it over goalkeeper Igor Akinfeev to put the Barcelona side ahead in Moscow. Espanyol ran out 2-0 winners on the night. Scan the QR code to watch the goal.

QUOTE OF THE MONTH

“Freedom of speech doesn’t mean freedom of consequences”

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So said LA Clippers head coach Doc Rivers when asked about the conflict between the National Basketball Association (NBA) and China last month, which started after Houston Rocket’s General Manager Daryl Morey tweeted about Hong Kong-related events. In response to comments made soon after by NBA commissioner Adam Silver, Chinese broadcaster CCTV decided to temporarily suspend the broadcasts of NBA preseason games and investigate all cooperation with the NBA. A number of high profile Chinese celebrities and companies also came out in opposition to Morey’s tweet and Silver’s comments. For the latest on the NBA’s China controversy, scan the QR code.

E D I T E D B Y M A T T H E W B O S S O N S / C I T Y @ U R B A N A T O M Y. C O M

高

级

黑 gaojihei / gāojíhēi / 高级黑 verb. to throw shade in a subtle and shielded way or even disguised as a compliment, to backhandedly diss someone How is your new boss?

He has such a talent for stringing together many expletives in one sentence. Is that gaojihei ?

He is very talented indeed.

isdain – we all carry so much of it going about our daily lives. We carry disdain like a tumbler filled with freshlybrewed coffee, dishing it out little by little when we small talk, or pouring a big chunk of it out when we meet those who despise the same things as us. We carry disdain for people, companies, brands, TV shows, musicians and even snacks. Shared disdain helps us make friends, bond with each other, form communities and define identities. It is of the utmost importance that we communicate it effectively. There are times where we can openly show our disdain with statements such as “U2 is a disgrace to music” or “I just can’t be friends with people who like tomato-based hot pot,” while other times we have to be more tactful. And that is when gaojihei comes in handy. Literally meaning ‘high level blackening,’ gaojihei is the sophisticated art of expressing disdain in a subtle or tightly disguised fashion. Instead of saying “This movie is stupid,” say “How wonderful of them to make a movie just for imbeciles.” Instead of saying “I hate this album,” say “This album is so good, it

redefines what music is.” Or “What a lovely dress, no wonder you continue to wear it so often.” You get it. There are many theories as to why gaojihei became the default mode for expressing disdain, especially on the Internet. Some say cultural emphasis on being nice forces people to shoehorn criticism into flattery, while others think the ‘manners education’ of “If you don’t have anything nice to say, then don’t say anything at all” is to blame. Either way, the result is that the language is always seemingly positive, but not the sentiment – and it’s important to listen carefully. Conversation is the playground of the wits. Always playing it straight can get boring. So, the next time you feel like dissing something, approach it in a more creative way and add a few curve balls to keep your audience on their toes! Mia Li

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CIT Y | F E AT URE

HARRY POTTER AND THE FAKE UK MARKET TOWN China’s Surreal Slice of Middle England on the Outskirts of Shanghai Words and Photos By Aron Solomons

hames Town is a place that I have wanted to visit ever since landing in Shanghai and reading about it in the deepest, darkest corner of the internet – Reddit. For those that have better things to do than read about sub-par tourist destinations (jokes on you, you’re doing it right now) Thames Town was built in 2006 as part of a series of luxury European-style towns for Shanghai elites. Unfortunately, despite the developer’s best intentions, the rich of our beloved city had better ways to spend their money than on a mock Tudor house next to a knock-off version of a West England cathedral. From what can be read online, it had become quasi-empty, except for the occasional couple shooting wedding photos. But this was all hearsay, because no one has ever wanted to go with me. Conversations with friends would go something like this:

The lay of the land.

Polite But Disinterested Friend: What is it exactly? Me: It’s a town on the outskirts of Shanghai that is designed to look like an English market town. PBDF: Oh right, is there anything particularly impressive about it? Me: No. Not really. PBDF: Any interesting shops or restaurants? Me: There are a few not terrible ones, according to Dianping. PBDF: Is it easy to get to? Me: About an hour by metro and then a 20 minute taxi. PBDF: Anything else? Me: I think it has a statue of Harry Potter. PBDF: I think I’ll pass. Thanks Aron.

It takes a certain type of masochist to actively seek out something that is seemingly pretty terrible. But a friend with a birthday and a lack of options was the catalyst to find out if we could really experience a taste of home just outside of Songjiang. So England shirts, bowler hats and full Harry Potter outfits prepared – a group of us made our way.

Possibly the only red telephone box with a China Telecom logo. 10 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

F E AT URE | CIT Y

Better than German stand up comedy.

On arrival, having tormented our taxi driver with enthusiastic renditions of the Spice Girls and the Venga Boys (before someone pointed out that the latter was Dutch), there were a few immediate reminders of the UK. Random red telephone boxes dotted around, alongside strange statues of random white people sitting on benches and even a Mini Cooper. This was unfortunately offset by a bizarre twometer-tall transformer next to it. Our first mission was to get some real English food. I know what you’re thinking – who wants English food? It’s like requesting German stand up comedy. But sometimes a man wants fish and chips. However, similar to how it is in the UK, the majority of the restaurants in Thames Town turned out to be European. After much searching we found an ‘English style restaurant’ – The Granger & Co. After ordering a few portions of palatable fish and chips, we were ready to see what the town had to offer.

Hoorah! We found Fish and chips! WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 11

CIT Y | F E AT URE

In defense of Thames Town, the streets did represent a typical English market town – even if ‘Oxford Street’ resembled more a side street in a village than the UK’s most popular shopping thoroughfare. There are also statues of famous Brits (both real and fictional) dotted around. So if you want to play ‘find the random statue of Winston Churchill,’ then this is the place for you. We managed to find both Winston and Harry Potter. The tour de force is a church slapbang in the middle of town. At first, I thought it was meant to be St Paul’s Cathedral, but after a bit of research I discovered that it is modeled off Christ Church in Bristol. Curious, and being a good god-fearing Christian (okay, apathetic Jew), I wanted to look inside. Would it be a real church? Or, like everything else here, a hollow tribute? Sure enough, inside were pews and, most spectacularly of all, a Chinese Jesus on the stained glass windows.Just like the inside of a church confessional booth, the dominant feeling in Thames Town is one of eerie quietness. Shanghai doesn’t do quiet. Shanghai does the opposite. And every tourist attraction is normally rammed on the weekend. Not the case here. If you look into the windows above the ground level shops, they are all empty. There is a shell of a theater that has clearly not been used in years. After a few awkward group photos, and some more photos of couples taking wedding photos, it was time to go. If you have an inner masochist that likes trying to enjoy bad things in the name of irony then Thames Town is for you. We’d had fish and chips, posed for pictures with both Harry and Winston, but we can’t say any of us really felt close to home.

Thames Town is the perfect place to play find the strange statue.

The Boy Wizard.

The nearest Shanghai Metro station to Thames Town is Songjiang Xincheng on Line 9. From there you can take a 15-minute taxi. A taxi from Shanghai to Thames Town takes about an hour costs around RMB200. For a listing scan the QR code:

Look closely at the man in the yellow clothes and you can make out Chinese Jesus

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Look closely at the man in the yellow clothes and you can make out Chinese Jesus

LIFE &

STYLE

Urumqi

Journey to the West, P20

Hogwarts Chic P16

Get the Boot P18

SPOTLIGHT

DANIEL SUN

Cofounder of de shanghai By Phoebe Kut

There’s a certain whimsy and nostalgia about vintage prints. Lifestyle brand de shanghai reproduces charming, Old Shanghai fabric prints onto an array of products ranging from enamel mugs, folders, stationery and more. We spoke with Daniel Sun, the cofounder and designer behind the brand. Can you tell us how the concept of ‘de shanghai’ started? I came across these fabrics during a visit to Chongming Island, and was fascinated by how the fabric itself served as folk art that unfolded a unique story of Shanghai. How did your affinity for vintage Shanghainese prints come about?

Most of the fabrics I collected were handmade during the Cultural Revolution. The colors were bright and bold, and the designs were very intricate! This bright, intricate boldness was a testament to the Shanghainese longing for a beautiful, modern lifestyle during the time when China was closed off to the world. The story of that desire was a direct and genuine one. How do you decide which products to release the prints on?

We have a cafe located in ‘de shanghai home’ and many of the products I design suit the cafe’s environment and are meant to be used for daily life. I work mostly from my own intuition.

What sets de shanghai apart?

Who is the ideal de shanghai customer?

It’s different. de shanghai is not trying to be someone or follow a trend. In a fast-growing, compact city, it seems you can’t go wrong with a monochromatic, minimalist style that is widely accepted as fashionable. But I believe memory plays an important role in our daily life. These beautiful patterns and floral curtains of our grandparents’ homes have a way of evoking sentimental, sweet memories. I simply reconstruct this kind of memory and feeling for modern use.

Everyone! We don’t pick our customers. Our customers pick us.

Which products are currently most popular? The shopping bag and the enamel mug – practical and chic.

Do you have plans to expand outside of Asia?

I’d like to tell the stories of these special Shanghai floral patterns first, so I recently started a gallery and shop to showcase the history. I’m hoping more and more people can share the concept of ‘de shanghai’ – and decorate their lives with Shanghai’s beautiful history.

To visit the de shanghai website scan the QR code.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 15

STYLE RADAR HOT ON TAOBAO

COVET

Double’s Beer Mug We all have that friend who has graduated from beer nursing school and transferred their skills to the real world. (If you’re saying you don’t, that’s because it’s you.) Don’t get us wrong, drinking slowly is both responsible and healthier, but on some occasions, you just want to cut loose with the squad. Luckily, Taobao has the perfect product to get everyone at the party feeling a little tipsy. The double beer mug is designed to turn strangers into friends, friends into best friends and, dare we say, best friends into friends with benefits? Maybe that’s a stretch, but we’ve heard stranger love stories. Honestly though, this simple yet ingenious product was engineered for an extra fun time drinking with friends. Whether you’re having a beer chugging competition or playing Donald Trump drinking games with a partner (Google it), this double beer mug can do it all. Bar owners have even boosted their revenue thanks to this tacky tool. A Taobao user submitted a review, writing, “After I received the product, I arranged it on top of the bar, patrons really like it and beer sales have increased. When customers use it to drink beer, they’ll post it on Douyin and it goes viral. Everyone looks for my bar; it’s clear that the number of customers has increased. One set isn’t enough, I’m ordering 10.” You can find double beer mugs in various shapes and sizes online – some even glow in the dark. We’ll let you figure all that out for yourself, but remember – drink responsibly. The double beer mug is available on Taobao from RMB36-89.7. > Scan the QR code with the Taobao app to shop.

Harry Potter and the Order of the Peacebird Founded in 2008, Chinese streetwear brand Peacebird has already made a huge splash on the scene, collaborating with major companies like Coca-Cola and Playboy. For its Spring/Summer 2020 season, Peacebird debuted a Harry Potter-themed collection on the Parisian runway. This ready-to-wear collection has a strong collegiate theme running throughout, with oversized cardigans, black

> Scan with the Taobao app to shop.

UNDER THE LENS

Anime Inspired An unlikely duo or the perfect match? Michael B. Jordan, star of the Creed franchise and Black Panther, has just launched a capsule collection with Coach that is entirely Narutothemed. This collection is more than just another collaboration; it is a personal statement for Jordan. The star and avid anime fan credited the Japanese animation form as a “big piece of [his] childhood, adult life and [source of] creativity” in an interview with Highsnobiety. Jordan’s menswear line features a T-shirt with the original Konoha trio characters of Jiraiya, Orochimaru and Tsunade. Additionally, backpacks, totes, boots, sneakers and fanny packs feature the Uchiha Sharingan. “I wanted something that people who loved anime would be able to pick up on – small Easter eggs here and there that people really grab on to,” says Jordan. “It’s subtle. It’s not overthe-top, but you still get it in the lining of certain jackets, or a print on some of the tote bags.” With Jordan bringing anime to the forefront of fashion, Viz Media’s Alex Lee reflects, “It’s completely validated anime for us. It makes people not want to keep it in their room; it makes them want to blurt it out and be proud.” This is not the only anime project Jordan has been involved in; he also stars in an animated web series called gen:LOCK. > Scan the QR code to shop.

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berets, over-the-knee socks and, of course, the respective crests of Hogwarts’ houses emblazoned on various pieces. Fans have been snapping up items quicker than you can say wingardium leviosa, and Weibo users have been leaving comments such as, “Really love the whole design of this series, it’s very good!” So, Harry Potter fans, no need to wait for the Sorting Hat, go on and nab your favorite pieces with the summoning charm before the other muggles do!

TAP THAT APP

1919 When it comes to food delivery, it’s clear that Dianping, Meituan and Ele.me have a commanding lead among other apps. However, what if you’re looking to order wine and spirits? That’s 1919’s domain. With nearly 1,800 stores operating in over 500 Chinese cities, 1919 is an onlineto-offline (O2O) drink retailer, accessible via store and same-day app delivery. The alcohol specialists offer a wide range of wine and spirits (domestic and imported), as well as a variety of domestic, imported and craft beer. Prices are quite reasonable as well – at least for imported spirits like vodka, whiskey, rum, gin, etc. This aspect, along with an easy-touse app, make 1919 your best option if you’re looking to make a boozy purchase. A popular feature on the 1919 app that has helped differentiate it from other alcohol retailers is its flash sale marketplace. You can find some serious deals, like two bottles of Bordeaux for RMB70. And with Singles’ Day taking place this month, expect some quality flash sales to pop off.

Last year, 1919 received a RMB2-billion investment from Alibaba, which has been used to continue expanding the company’s presence in the Middle Kingdom. Aside from financial stimulus, the tech giant has also provided support in e-commerce and logistics, among other crucial areas, to further expand the business. The Chengdu-based online drinks retailer has grown at a rapid pace since it was founded in 1998; the platform’s revenue reached RMB3.3 billion in 2017, and is projected to

hit RMB7 billion this year. One drawback to 1919’s app – liquor delivery ends around 9pm (depending on your nearest location), meaning stock up early or you’ll be relegated to the neighborhood convenience store for a liquor run. > 1919 is available on iOS and Android devices.

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 17

LIFE & STYLE | FASHION

THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Bershka RMB429 Bershka.cn

Nine Shoes to Fall Head-Over-Heels For By Phoebe Kut

Bershka RMB359 Bershka.cn Dr.Martens RMB1,699 Drmartens.com.cn

Pumpkin spice lattes, leggings, chunky knits and black boots. These are just some of the lovable cliches of autumn, so embrace the change in seasons and grab yourself some new fall footwear.

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Zara RMB499 Zara.cn

FASHION | LIFE & STYLE

Bershka RMB379 Bershka.cn

Hunter RMB1,250 Hunterboots.com

Zara RMB699 Zara.cn

Zara RMB799 Zara.cn

G-Star Raw RMB2,198 g-star.tmall.com

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URUMQI L IF E & S T Y L E | T R AV E L

estled in a valley amidst the majestic peaks of the Tianshan range of mountains, Urumqi forms the enigmatic capital of the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region and is a gateway for explorers to China’s expansive Northwest. With a population of 3.5 million, the city, which takes its name from a Mongolian Oirats word for ‘beautiful pasture,’ boasts the title of largest urban center in all of Central Asia and stands as a melting pot of cultures that epitomizes the rich diversity of the region. The northern half of the modern metropolis is home to an increasingly industrious CBD, along with many of Urumqi’s Han Chinese majority. The southern quarter, meanwhile, tightly clustered around the lively Erdaoqiao neighborhood, is the traditional home of the city’s Uyghur community and where many of the city’s historic markets, mosques and scenic byways can be found. Urumqi’s vibrant ethnic diversity is mirrored by a varied climate that greets visitors with a different face depending on the season, from frigid, even snowy winters to bright and sunny summers that see the area’s lushly forested hillsides and airy mountain meadows burst into bloom. Visitors to the city can relish in varied and delicious cuisine at the innumerable evening street stalls, ride on the commercial currents of enduring Silk Road trading traditions at the iconic Grand Bazaar, enjoy moments of contemplative serenity in Urumqi’s quiet parks and discover the region’s fascinating history and

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By Daniel Plafker

unique geography at the impressively curated Xinjiang Museum. Those who venture further afield to take in Xinjiang’s pristine wilderness will be rewarded with crystal clear mountain lakes, rolling pastures and floral meadows difficult to find elsewhere in the realm.

Looking for more expert guides to China’s biggest cities and hottest destinations? Scan the QR code now to purchase our Explore China travel guide, which offers insider tips, detailed city guides and awesome day trips.

T R AV E L | L IF E & S T Y L E

Grand Bazaar and Erdaoqiao Neighborhood Don’t be fooled by the admittedly impressive traditional Central Asian architectural features – while the Urumqi International Grand Bazaar is clearly meant to look historic, it was in fact built in 2002. In many ways, this complex of attractive brickwork buildings is all but designed to be an overpriced tourist trap, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth a visit. Wandering the numerous stalls and corridors is a perfect way to give yourself a primer on some of the wondrous things that the region has to offer. Raisins from Turpan, melons from Hami, lavender from Yili, instruments from Kashgar, knives from Yengisar and jade from Hotan are all sold under the same great roof. For a small fee, you can also ascend the handsome tower at the bazaar’s center, which offers instructive views of the surrounding neighborhood. Rather than buying anything here at inflated prices, venture out of the bazaar for a wander of the surrounding streets and alleys. Here in Erdaoqiao, the geographic heart of Urumqi’s traditional Uyghur community, a very different side of city life is on display. Furthermore, many of the same products on sale at the bazaar can be found at the local Erdaoqiao Market for a fraction of the price.

Red Hill Park Hongshan Park is centered around the magnificent Red Hill, a striking 1,391-meter-high cliff face that’s so iconic it has become a symbol of Urumqi itself. A visit to this impressive topographical feature offers breathtaking views of the city, which, along with its central location, makes it a perfect first destination to ground and orient oneself on a visit to Urumqi or a contemplative sunset overlook to cap off a busy day of urban exploration. The hill is crowned by the handsome, 25-meter-tall Zhen Long Pagoda – a painstakingly preserved nine-story edifice dating back to the Yuan Dynasty that creates picture-perfect evening tableaus at dusk. Also on the hilltop is the historic Yu Huang Ge temple. Once home to hundreds of Buddhist monks, the now-quiet sanctuary remains a worthwhile touristic site. Though it may be hard to believe looking at the lush hillsides, Hongshan was once a brown and barren mountain, until a decades-long reforestation campaign by the local government transformed it into a bastion of greenery at the heart of the city.

Xinjiang Museum and Loulan Mummies Each provincial-level administrative division in China has a dedicated museum in its capital city and Xinjiang is no exception. In fact, the Xinjiang Museum just north of Urumqi’s center stands out for its comprehensiveness, modern design and impressive rigor. Entry is free, of course, and special care has been taken to translate many of the signs and plaques into English. The Silk Road Exhibit outlines the unique role of this region as a trade corridor and vital cultural link between East and West throughout the centuries. Meanwhile, the Ethnic Nationalities Exhibit lays out the histories, customs and daily lifeways of all 13 of Xinjiang’s distinct ethnic groups. The main draw, however, is none other than the museum‘s collection of Xinjiang’s world-famous mummies. Among them, the haunting, decay-defying figure of the ‘Loulan Beauty’ stands out. Excavated in 1980 from the hot, dry sands of Loulan, this ancient woman’s body, which lies prominently displayed in a glass case, is one of the oldest and best preserved in the world. Unlike Egyptian mummies, which are the product of deliberate and complex procedures intended to combat rot, the Loulan Beauty owes her wellpreserved hair and features to the bone-dry conditions of the desert sands that formed her final resting place. WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 21

L IF E & S T Y L E | T R AV E L

Laghman

Yangrouchuanr

A delicious tradition that many believe represents wheat flour elevated to its highest possible form, laghman are handpulled noodles served with meat and vegetables – a dish that proudly straddles Hui Muslim and Uyghur cuisine. Watching the chef expertly stretch, swing and slap the dough into heavenly strands of starchy satisfaction is half the fun in ordering this Northwestern specialty. Find yourself having slurped down the last of your noodles but still have a plateful of savory sauce? Holler at your waiter to ‘jiamian’ and most Urumqi laghman joints will top you up with a reinforcement of fresh noodles at little to no cost.

Few sensations are more evocative of Urumqi than the smoky whiff of streetside shish kebabs roasting over coals on a balmy evening. The long steel skewers of bite-sized mutton morsels alternate tantalizingly between lean meat and fat. Sprinkled decadently with powdered chili and aromatic cumin, these iconic meat batons set a global standard for pleasureon-a-stick. Best enjoyed with a cool, salty glass of Uyghur yogurt or soothing camel’s milk to quiet the oral fires that they tend to kindle.

Dapanji

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Elsewhere in China, there are few dishes more closely associated with the exotic Northwestern frontier than big-plate chicken, or dapanji. Here in Xinjiang, the dish is available far and wide – both in halal restaurants catering to the region’s Muslim residents and the Chinese-style eateries popular among Han transplants. Local legend has it that this savory stew of chicken, potatoes, bell peppers, tomatoes and onions, seasoned with chilies and cumin, was first concocted in the 1990s by a Sichuanese migrant as something to serve to passing truckers plying the regions highways. Best enjoyed with a side of local nang flatbread, which can be torn up into doughy shards to soak up the stew’s rich juices.

T R AV E L | L IF E & S T Y L E

TIANCHI For all of its charms, Xinjiang’s busy capital city can start to feel like a heaving, stifling scrum after a few days of intense exploration. Luckily, one need not travel far from Urumqi to get a taste of the pristine natural beauty that the region is known for. Some will scoff that Tianchi, the famed ‘Heavenly Lake’ that sits like a crater of placid crystal in the depths of the misty Tianshan Range, has become so canonical a destination on the Chinese tourism circuit that a visit here must be tantamount to masochistic self-smothering

under the weight of selfie-stickswinging throngs. Tianchi’s fame and popularity, however, is nonetheless well deserved, and with a little finesse and creativity, it is not hard to dodge the huddled masses for a taste of alpine serenity. A two-hour drive from Urumqi’s city center will bring you to the gate of the massive nature reserve that contains Tianchi. Here, visitors will need to pay a hefty entrance fee before transferring to electric buses for an equally expensive 30-minute bus ride to the top (though hiking enthusiasts

can attempt a highly strenuous 8-kilometer uphill trek to the summit). Regardless of your chosen mode of ascent, the last stretch of road will need to be done on foot, and once the final ridge is crested and the lake comes into view, it’s easy to see what all the fuss is about. The bright, clear waters of this nearly 2-kilometer high crater-lake were first given their ‘Heavenly’ title by a Qing Dynasty military commander garrisoned in the area more than two centuries ago. Tianchi’s surface spans roughly 5 square kilometers of frosty aquamarine and is more than 100 meters deep at its deepest point. Take time to wander the banks of this breathtaking mountain lagoon. It won’t take long before the crowds are far behind you and the silence of the high forest comes into focus. Small paths lead off to various smaller ponds and waterfalls and a picnic lunch can be enjoyed in the stony stillness. Alternatively, the Kazakh families who still call the nature reserve home offer traditional

home-cooked meals (albeit for a heavily-inflated price). Tempted to stick around? Some shrewd negotiation can secure a berth in a Kazakh yurt together with dinner. It’s not the height of luxury, but it’s sure to be warm enough, and sleeping in a nomadic dwelling on the slopes of the Tianshan Range is an unforgettable experience which, despite the seemingly mismatched price tag, won’t set you back any more than a night at a hotel in the city.

How to Get There Seats on coaches to Tianchi can be secured on the spot at the gate of Urumqi’s People’s Park. The two-hour journey takes you east towards the town of Fukang and then south towards the foot of the mountain. Budget RMB280 per person for round-trip transport and park entry fees.

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ARTS

Rise and Shine

Indie Rock Icons The Kooks Continue to Charm a Decade After Their Debut, P28

Letter Records P25

Pema Tseden P30

Music Corner P37

DRUMROLL

LETTER RECORDS

Founder of New Underground Label, Nick Cao, Looks to the Future By Bryan Grogan

Nick Cao is a fixture on the Shanghai music scene, having previously been a main force behind excellent indie label Shengjian Records, as well as guitarist with cultish band The Cheers Cheers and a music producer. Nowadays, he’s working with a new underground label called Letter Records. The label has already put out four releases in 2019, including one by the dreamy lo-fi duo Peking Picnic (named after the Ann Bridge novel of the same name) and more recently a gorgeously constructed EP from Pocari Sweet singer Siyu. We caught up with Cao to talk about his decision to leave Shengjian Records, his opinion on bedroom rock in China and upcoming plans for Letter Records. Why did you choose to leave Shengjian Records and start Letter Records?

What’s your opinion on underground music in China?

Could you talk a bit about what you have lined up for Letter Records in the future?

I always want to make music that is more underground. Shengjian Records became more interested in growing its bands right now, whereas I have a more underground spirit when it comes to music. So, our ideas about music development weren’t exactly the same.

Shanghai’s scene is quite big. There’s quite a bit going on and a lot of big bands from outside come to Shanghai regularly. In Beijing, it has its own strong scene as well, while Guangzhou, I’m not too sure of. Bands down there really like DIY music and quite a lot of Hong Kong bands make their way over to Guangzhou.

In December, we are planning a performance at Yuyintang in Shanghai, details to come. We’re also planning to release some more music. The bands that have already released with us – from Beijing, Chengdu and Guangzhou – are going to come to Shanghai to perform. Your Summer Dream, 2-D Foil, The Cheers Cheers as well as new jangle pop band with a Sarah Records-style called All The Romantic Days.

How many people are working on the label?

Just two. Me and a Guangzhou friend, the guitarist from Pocari Sweet, Jueer. We connected with each other online. He’s responsible for the art and design side of things, while I’m responsible for finding bands and organizing releases.

How do you find bands for your releases? Usually I pick from among my friends’ bands that I like, and then I find other bands online. For example, we found 2-D Foil online and then we contacted them. If they are interested, we ask them to send us a demo of their music.

How do you record the music on the releases?

I like to make music in my bedroom, but, on my label, some of the bands prefer to make music in a studio. So, it’s sometimes a mixture of both.

To learn more about Letter Records, scan the QR code:

Can you talk about when you started Letter Records?

We founded Letter Records around May of this year. We wanted to make a platform for underground music so that more people can find this type of music. We wanted to make music that is easy for people to listen to, not because people like music that is easy, but because we like making that music. WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 25

COLL AGE

COMING TO A THEATER NEAR YOU

Pets United

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TRANSCRIBED

NOV 8

This animated co-production between Germany and China sees a group of pets fight to save their owners from an evil would-be ruler who wants to replace humans with robots. Sure, it’s unlikely to be as good as The Secret Life of Pets, but, hey, it’s an unusually slow month for Chinese film, and this one represents the best opportunity to bring the kids to the cinema this month.

“I can really celebrate the life of my motherland with so many people. I am really touched! Me and my country can’t be separated for a moment” That’s what one Douban user said about patriotic smash hit My People, My Country. The film, which is divided into seven parts, celebrates the history of the PRC and was released alongside another pair of patriotic films, The Captain and The Climbers. The three combined to take home RMB630 million on just the first day of their release, obliterating the previous record for September 30 (RMB280 million).

HAO BU HAO

NOV 15

Hunt Down This historical crime thriller, starring When Larry Met Mary actress Jiao Junyan, sees a female police officer investigating her father, a history professor. Reading like a cross between the Nick Cage film National Treasure and the Ocean’s Eleven series, the film follows Jiao’s character as she attempts to find stolen national relics, in a case which sees her father positioned as a prime suspect.

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Hao Ne Zha was announced as China’s selection for Best International Feature Film at the 92nd Oscars. The animated blockbuster, which has raked in almost RMB4.7 billion at the box office, got the nod as China’s submission ahead of sci-fi flick The Wandering Earth. Ninetyfour countries sent submissions to the Academy for this year’s awards, with a record 93 submissions accepted for consideration. The films will be considered by an official Academy Award selection committee, which will vote in a secret ballot to create a 10-film short list, before selecting five official nominees for the Oscar. The 10 short-listed films will be announced on December 16, with the cut to five nominees coming in January.

Bu Hao Celebrated Beijing hutong gallery Arrow Factory closed its doors at the end of September after 11 and a half years. The news came as art districts and galleries are struggling to survive in the capital city, with a number of artists evicted from the popular Luomahu and Huantie art districts in July. It also follows the ominous warning by Pace Gallery founder Arne Glimcher after the art space was forced to shut its Beijing location, saying, “It’s impossible to do business in mainland China right now and it has been for a while.”

E D I T E D B Y B R Y A N G R O G A N / A R T S @ U R B A N A T O M Y. C O M

SINO CELEB

Jin Xing

Top-Notch Dancer She started dancing with a People’s Liberation Army troupe as a 9-year-old, and learned modern dance in New York in her 20s. Jin has enjoyed a lifelong career as one of China’s first-rate modern dancers. First Marriage Prior to transitioning, Jin married her female roommate at the age of 28 while studying in New York. Their marriage lasted for 10 years. Talk Show Host Jin has hosted two successful talk shows, Venus Mars and The Jin Xing Show, both of which were aired on Shanghai Dragon Television.

Jin Xing, or Venus in English, is a transgender dancer and choreographer from China who is celebrated for her highly-acclaimed choreographic works. Having received recognition as a talented and prolific modern dance choreographer on the international stage, Jin returned to China and hosted two popular talk shows in Shanghai. Today, television viewers can often see her as a judge in various talent shows, where she is well-liked for her detailed comments. Below, we give you five facts about the famed dancer. Mother of Three Together with her German husband, the dance phenom has adopted three children. Hukou Dilemma Due to her spouse’s nationality, Jin was unable to register her adopted children under her hukou, China’s ‘internal passport.’ She eventually chose to divorce her husband, although the two continued to live together afterwards, and eventually remarried.

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ARTS | MUSIC

RISE AND SHINE Indie Rock Icons The Kooks Continue to Charm a Decade After Their Debut By Valerie Osipov

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MUSIC | ARTS

he British rock renaissance that dominated the early 2000s gave birth to a number of iconic bands, such as The Libertines, the Arctic Monkeys and Bloc Party. These groups have cemented themselves as essential ‘landfill indie,’ surviving the test of time and following us from playlist to playlist. Among such groups is The Kooks. Formed in Brighton in 2004, the rockers first stole hearts with their debut album Inside In/Inside Out in 2006, which included darling tracks like ‘Naïve’ and ‘She Moves in Her Own Way.’ The pop record would come to define the feel-good sound of The Kooks, and was accompanied by such buzz (it went quadruple platinum in the UK) that the band went on to record a live acoustic version at Abbey Road Studios (you know the one) just a year later. Their follow-up releases, 2008’s Konk and 2011’s Junk of the Heart, continued to charm, solidifying the band as a bright and breezy soundtrack for teenage youth, with upbeat guitar riffs and effortlessly catchy choruses about falling in and out of love. Having gone through a few shifts in core members, including the departure of their original bassist and founding drummer Paul Garred, the band is currently comprised of vocalist Luke Pritchard, Hugh Harris on lead guitar and Alexis Nunez on drums. After a decade of studio albums and experimenting with new sounds, followed by a three-year hiatus, the trio compiled a greatest hits record dubbed The Best Of… So Far, featuring sweet singles like ‘Ooh La’ and ‘Junk of the Heart (Happy).’ Their latest album Let’s Go Sunshine, which they put out last year, marked The Kooks’ return to the spotlight and saw the beloved indie rockers continuing to experiment with styles. This month, The Kooks embark on a China tour with stops in Beijing and Shanghai. We caught up with guitarist Hugh Harris to talk about the band’s monumental music career and what it feels like being a glimmering emblem of indie rock nostalgia.

What are you most excited for while touring in China? This will be our third visit to China. [We’re] looking forward to performing for all our fans and bringing love and positivity through our music. I also can’t wait to eat traditional Chinese food and practice my Mandarin. Being a defining symbol of a nostalgic era of indie, how have you evolved as a band over the years? It’s an honor to be a source of nostalgia for a generation and we treasure that deeply, but it’s also important to evolve and keep moving creatively. We have grown up with our fans and acquired some new younger ones along the way, but we have never sacrificed our identity to gain relevance to suit a new generation.

Your first album, Inside In/Inside Out, was so formative and a smashing success. Do you often find yourselves trying to recreate that magic sound of your early material or embracing new directions? That magic you speak of is something every artist tries to recreate. That’s the juice and it needs squeezing regularly. Sometimes fruit is low hanging and sometimes it’s not. This depends on many things being in place – mental health, a support network and inspiration. Speaking of Inside In/Inside Out – you recorded a live version of the album at Abbey Road Studios in 2005. Was that a dream come true for the band at that point?

Making an album as a band is a dream come true in any studio, and the opportunity to do so at Abbey Road was humbling. It’s an expensive studio to work at, and you are consistently reminded of the achievements of projects that have happened there. It’s sometimes hard to focus on what you are actually doing with all that looming in the background. It felt at times like we were recording in some kind of museum with a gift shop, not a studio. I would love to go back there 50 or 60 years ago and be a fly on the wall.

Let’s Go Sunshine came out just last year after Hello, What’s Your Name? in 2015. What were The Kooks up to in that threeyear gap between albums? I spent that time traveling in India, meditating and doing yoga – getting the intention set in my life. I was young when we started the band, and I needed to do some catching up with things internally. I also worked lots on my solo record, which is going to come out early next year. It’s kind of orchestral soulpop music recorded in my spare time over eight years and across four continents. Most recently, you put out a new single titled ‘So Good Looking’ this summer, which undeniably captures that quintessential sound of your debut record. Tell us a bit about the track and what inspired it.

It’s more of a return to format for us. We wanted to make something that was part of our refined essence and so we decided to almost pastiche ourselves. Our fans loved it! What was it like putting together a greatest hits album so early in your musical career?

It was surprising and exciting to be asked to do that by our label and also extremely hard to pick the songs! I guess that’s a good thing. People listen to music in compilations these days anyhow, cherry picking their way through catalogues on streaming platforms. I do feel young compared to other greatest hits artists, but I wouldn’t describe that as a negative thing.

Are there any older tracks you get tired of playing live? Honestly, I never get tired of playing any [of our] songs (except perhaps in rehearsals). I don’t allow myself to get bored of them live and personally, if I feel that emotion coming on, then I change what I’m playing to keep it interesting. That’s my duty as a performer. Nov 15, 8.30pm; RMB320 presale, RMB400 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010) Scan the QR code below for tickets:

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 29

ARTS | FILM

TEMPERAMENT

Pema Tseden Stands At the Forefront of a Growing Contingent of Tibet Filmmakers

By Bryan Grogan

ibet, a region of undeniable beauty, soaring mountain peaks and harsh landscapes, is becoming a vital center for cinematic experimentation in China. With established names and young directors cropping up with celebrated films at international film festivals around the world, Tibet has contributed some of the best Chinese art films of the past five years. At the forefront of Tibet cinema is Pema Tseden, Beijing Film Academy’s first-ever Tibetan student. Tseden was born in Qinghai in 1969 and studied Tibetan language and literature at China’s first higher institute for minorities, Northwest Minzu University, formerly known as Northwest University for Nationalities, before going on to pursue studies in cinema. Tseden broke onto the filmmaking scene with a bang in 2002, with his first movie The Silent Holy Stones. Like many of Tseden’s films, this sparse tale follows a curious and passionate lama (a teacher of the dharma in Tibetan Buddhism) based in the Tibetan region. The Silent Holy Stones picked up an award for Best Directorial Debut at the prestigious Golden Rooster Awards, while also snagging awards at smaller film festivals around China. Tseden continued plying his trade in the industry, releasing a number of films follow-

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ing The Silent Holy Stones, but it was his 2015 feature, Tharlo, that catapulted him to global recognition, with the film premiering at the 72nd edition of the Venice Film Festival. While the film takes in topics ranging from solitude to modernization and beyond, it was notable for its low budget, a hallmark of Tibet filmmaking, which currently tends to revolve around arthouse cinema. Speaking to this phenomenon, Tseden tells us, “Because of factors such as the market environment and the maturity of the film industry, the main body of filmmakers is still developing in the direction of art films.” This year, Tseden’s new feature, Balloon, has been turning heads at film festivals around the world. Also debuting at the Venice Film Festival, Balloon has already picked up nominations at the Asia Pacific Screen Awards for Best Feature Film and Best Screenplay, joining other Chinese films like So Long My Son by Wang Xiaoshuai, A First Farewell by Wang Lina and Dwelling in the Fuchun Mountains by Gu Xiaogang. The film revolves around a farming family in the Tibetan region. The balloon in question is a condom, as the film takes place at the outset of China’s one-child policy period in the early ‘80s, exploring complex questions of faith, family and society in the mountains of Tibet at the time. Variety, in its review of the

film, called it a poignant, vibrant and poetic film with literary strands, stemming from Tseden’s background in literature. Tseden uses austere means to craft a gorgeous film based in a sparse region of the world. Talking about the story and the process behind making it, Tseden tells us, “The entire production cycle took more than a year, and the inspiration was accidental. One winter a few years ago, I was walking on the streets of Beijing and saw a balloon flying in the wind and I was attracted to it. It felt like a good one. The imagery of the film slowly made this image related to the Tibetan land and fictionalized the story.”

FILM | ARTS

While Tseden’s name may be the most recognizable of those working with film in and around Tibet today, perhaps a result of profiles written on the director by the likes of the New York Times, South China Morning Post and more, his is certainly not the only one. A frequent collaborator with Tseden on his early films, cinematographer, screenwriter and director Sonthar Gyal has also been making waves for his own cinematic contributions since 2011. Gyal’s debut, The Sun-Beaten Path, tells the story of a guilt-ridden farmer who struggles with killing his mother in a road accident. The film was screened at the Vancouver Film Festival, and picked up the now-discontinued Dragons and Tigers Award for Young Cinema, which was given out to emerging directors from the Asia-Pacific region. Fascinated by film as a child growing up in Tsolho Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Qinghai province, Gyal collected scraps of film as a youngster, even making his own makeshift projectors. He has also spoken about film culture in previous interviews, saying that there was just one cinema in his hometown while he was growing up. This speaks to the idea that cinema and film culture in regions like Tibet and Qinghai province is young and underdeveloped, with folks still experiencing a scarcity of cinemas. However, in recent years things have been improving dramatically, with more emphasis being placed on recording the life and daily rituals of people living in these areas, while also giving back to the community by way of festivals like First Film Festival, which takes place in Qinghai’s capital, Xining, each year.

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ARTS | FILM

A previous participant at First Film Festival, Lhapal Gyal is another filmmaker who is shining a light on the culture of Tibetan minorities in China. Just like Sonthar Gyal, Lhapal Gyal has previously worked with Tseden as an assistant director. His feature length debut came in the form of Wangdrak’s Rain Boots, a story about the small joys of childhood. That film, surrounded by such simplicity, stole hearts around the world at globally renowned festivals like Berlin International Film Festival and Vancouver International Film Festival. Lhapal Gyal’s approach, creating a film that is distinctly about children and for children (and adults, as well), marks newer territory for Tibet film, straying away from more somber and austere topics explored by Tseden and Sonthar Gyal to create the lighthearted and bright Wangdrak’s Rain Boots. A

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small step, but one that may prove influential in opening up the scope of the region’s minority art films. As we say, the number of filmmakers working on topics related to the Tibet region and people is by no means large, but those working within this small circle are optimistic for the future. Speaking to the continued development of Tibet film, Tseden tells us, “Tibetan film has experienced a development process from scratch in the past few years. Of course, this process is very difficult. But overall it is a very good thing. Now, some young people from different Tibetan areas are also working hard in this direction, hoping to use film as their future career, and hoping to gain some achievements and recognition in this field. This is good momentum for emerging Tibetan movies.”

A NEW ERA

ADVERTORIAL | ARTS

Shanghai Circus World Just Got a Beautiful New Makeover

fter 14 months of renovations, Shanghai Circus World has taken on a whole new look. As part of the makeover, the popular tourist attraction now boasts beautifully upgraded theaters that are equipped with even more hightech elements that rival the world’s most advanced theaters. The new and improved Shanghai Circus World officially opened to the public on 1st October. In order to celebrate the new look of Shanghai Circus World and meet the demand of audiences at home and abroad, the classic production ‘Era – Intersection of Time’ has now returned for its final season. The revamped building now features 1,400 color-changing star lights on the outside of the ‘golden pineapple’ sphere-shaped structure. The stars dot the gold dome and can change colors to make it truly shine. The installation of this 1,400star lighting system was indeed a technological feat. The design of the dome-shaped theater was inspired by the theme of ‘light.’ Not only do the stars illuminate the sphere, but the projected lights around the main building have been redesigned to highlight the main structure, creating a dazzling display. A giant ‘tree’ is located right in the middle of the theater hall, as part of the theme: fireworks. The tree was created using the theater hall’s original pillar. After several rounds of design comparisons, Shanghai Circus World finally decided to make the towering tree the centerpiece of the hall. The wooden trunk and branches of the tree are adorned with roughly 56 light belts, totaling 1,300 meters. Just like the stars on the exterior of the theater, the tree’s lights can also be programmed to create all sorts of amazing effects.

In addition to the tree in the center, there are 13 columns around the hall and 96 light belts around the tree, which create an array of different light effects. From a distance, the scene looks like fireworks blossoming and shining in the sky. Hence the name ‘fireworks’. The theater’s stage facilities also received large-scale reconstruction and upgrading. The stage now features more than 300 sets of lights in addition to upgraded sound systems, multimedia technology and high-tech performance equipment. These top of the line features can adapt to different performance elements, especially when it comes to acrobatic performances. The seats of the theater are all updated and designed by a world-renowned Japanese seat manufacturer. The appearance, material and color echo the overall theme and style of the theater and has a simple color system of black, grey and gold. Since its debut at Shanghai Circus World in 2005, ‘Era – Intersection of Time’ has been performed for 14 consecutive years and won numerous awards. After its last performance in the ‘ERA castle’ on 22rd September , 2019, the show officially returned to the newly renovated Shanghai Circus World for its final season on 1st October. Being able to return to its new and improved home base is the perfect sendoff for what has been a wildly popular show for the over a decade. The final season of the show will run for four months and will allow Chinese and foreign audiences to experience the classic performance in the elegant Shanghai Circus World. The season began on 1st October and will run through 31st January, 2020. After that,Shanghai Circus World will unveil a brand new show of ERA, which is planned to be performed publicly at the end of April 2020.

The performance information Address: 2266 Gonghe Xin Lu, by Guangzhong Lu Telephone: 6652 7750 Website: www.era-shanghai.com Time: 1st October , 2019 to 31st January , 2020, 7.30pm every night (closed Monday)

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ARTS | GALLERY

SHANGHAI ART WEEK What To Expect from Art021 and West Bund Art & Design

By Bryan Grogan

his year has been a tough one for arts in China, with a number of notable closures in Beijing over the past few months, and the continuing political situation in Hong Kong leading to the cancellation of Asia Contemporary Art Show in Spring 2020. That said, fairs and festivals continue to grow and become more common throughout major cities. Shanghai Art Week returns from November 7-10 with a number of new galleries set to debut at Art021 at Shanghai Exhibition Center and West Bund Art & Design. Here’s what you need to know going into the week.

Art021

Taking place at Shanghai Exhibition Center over the course of four days, Art021 brings together 110 galleries from 18 countries and 57 cities. Seventy percent of the galleries that will take part in the fair have a presence in China or Asia, making Art021 a vitally important arena in which to reach out to new audiences. Fans of contemporary art can enjoy sections like ‘Detour,’ ‘Beyond’ and ‘Approach,’ with each of these sections allowing something a little bit different. ‘Detour’ investigates Euro-American geographic networks and narratives, dwelling this time on the Silk Road route, following in Marco Polo’s journey through Eurasia, with 12 invited galleries from Asia and Europe. ‘Beyond’ allows for larger art works by placing them outside of the fair, with this year’s edition expanding to take in more commercial complexes throughout Shanghai. Finally, ‘Approach’ gives a platform for young, upcoming galleries, with 18 galleries taking part this year, including PeKIN Fine Arts from Beijing, Vin Gallery from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam and 02art from Beijing.

Nov 7-10 (Nov 7/8 are invitation only), 11am-6pm; RMB100. Shanghai Exhibition Center, 1000 Yan’an Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Lu 延安中路1000号, 近陕西路 Scan the QR code for tickets:

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GALLERY | ARTS

West Bund Art & Design

Coinciding with the long-awaited opening of West Bund Museum and equipped with a brand-new logo, the sixth edition of West Bund Art & Design welcomes 98 galleries from 18 different countries, including 28 galleries who will take part for the first time. Additionally, famed art and architecture book publisher TASCHEN will appear at West Bund Art & Design with their publication David Hockney. My Window. This will also mark the publisher’s first foray into the Chinese mainland, as it gets set to open an online shop on Alibaba’s T-Mall. Beloved sections of the fair will return again. ‘ArtReview Asia Xian Chang,’ which gives space to larger and more complex installation work, will be present, while Dream Video 100 will also make a return. Finally, there’s no such thing as too many art museums, right? The long-awaited opening of West Bund Museum will take place during Shanghai Art Week. Teaming up with famed Parisian art complex, Centre Pompidou, they are opening with a huge exhibition called The Shape of Time, made up of over 100 works from the Centre Pompidou, acting as an introduction to the French complex’s vast history. Nov 7-10, check the event schedule for individual times; West Bund Art & Design Center, 2555 Longteng Dadao, Xuhui District 龙腾大道2555 号, 近龙耀路

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 35

FOR THE RECORD

ARTS | FILM

INDIE FILMMAKER

Drago Lazetich Chats About His Projects, Shanghai Story and Blockbuster Film The Eight Hundred By Bryan Grogan

Drago Lazetich, a Serbian filmmaker who grew up in the US, arrived in Shanghai for the first time in 2004. During his time in the city, he has worked on a number of projects, including the TV show Wise Hit, as well as the controversial Little Milo, which focuses on a gay man whose political opinions and erratic behavior stirs concern. Lazetich’s approach to filmmaking, which he terms Red Pill filmmaking, has also stirred controversy. While the term red pill has certain connotations, he maintains that this name is not political, but directly associated with The Matrix, and his own wish to make films that do not stray away from difficult topics. With the upcoming release of Shanghai Story, in which Lazetich plays the main role, and the expected release of epic war film The Eight Hundred, in which Lazetich plays the role of a journalist, we sat down to speak to him about his life in film and what we can expect from his new projects.

36 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

or Shanghai Story, my main role is as an actor. It originated as a short film about four years ago, and was really well received. Our director Andrej Iliev wrote the short, shot it, edited it and is the mastermind behind Shanghai Story. When we had the opportunity to do a feature film, he already had the script ready. For the feature we have a bigger budget; we actually have a crew now. The short was just me, Andrej and Emilie Ohana running around Shanghai. In the film, I play a writer that’s unhappy with life, who’s an alcoholic and is experiencing some internal demons, which we all have. He meets a lady who represents an angel. The film takes place over the course of one night. The story represents a journey through Shanghai, and through this journey they’re discovering each other and themselves. They talk about each other, about their personal lives and their problems. Regardless of whether the actors are foreigners or Chinese people, it’s a human story, everyone relates to struggles and self doubts.

For Little Milo, I’ve heard people from left-leaning film festivals say that they can’t take it because of the ending, because of what it is saying, and that’s ok. I think in the future it will be a cult classic. And here’s the thing – if you want to know if your film is good, and your art is good, don’t ask your friends, don’t ask your relatives, ask somebody who has no dog in the race. In other words, ask a total stranger. I’m in a film called The Eight Hundred, which is based on the 1937 Battle of Shanghai. I play a journalist called Tony, who is recording the whole battle, I use my camera at times to block myself from Japanese soldiers that are trying to shoot me down. Honestly, I think that the fact it got pulled from the Shanghai Film Festival, and the whole media coverage that accompanied that, makes it a blessing in disguise. It’s an amazing film. I was filming for 22 days for my role, it was amazing, because I was doing something I like. Since it was pulled I’m not sure what they’ve cut and how much I’ll be in it, but I’m really looking forward to it.

CHINA MUSIC CORNER

MUSIC | ARTS

Three New Homegrown Albums on Our Radar This Month By Bryan Grogan

Phantom Rhythm by Gong Gong Gong Made up of guitar and bass duo Tom Ng (The Offset: Spectacles) and Joshua Frank (Hot & Cold), Gong Gong Gong formed in Beijing in 2015, playing in DIY spaces around the city and building a cult fan base. Phantom Rhythm is the clearest representation and most digestible album that we have gotten from the pair thus far. They lock onto the mystique of blues here, grating the sound down to its bare bones at times, summoning the phantom sound of percussion throughout, with Tom Ng singing in Cantonese throughout the album’s 10 tracks, adding again to the mystery that the band has built around themselves. Tracks like ‘Some Kind of Demon’ allow a certain space around Ng’s vocals, so that they echo, as if from some desolate stage. This is beautifully done, considering the duo are beloved for their excellent live shows. Meanwhile, the interplay between bass and guitar, with the bass setting the tone for large portions of the album, is infectious, clear, minimal and easy to hang on to and never let go. They keep song lengths at around five minutes or less for the most part, and cram a bunch of quirky hooks into each song, making Phantom Rhythm an extremely enjoyable listen. Scan the QR code to listen:

Fury by C.O.W. 牛 This enigmatic group made up of four artists from China and Germany are back with their latest EP, Fury, which is apparently the second element of an upcoming album, after their previous release, Epic. It’s hard to find much information on the group, but they are signed to iconic German label Compost Records, and the four artists in the group have coagulated their personalities into one, which certainly is an interesting step in terms of building the group’s brand. While the name of this EP, Fury, seems to indicate anger or disenchantment, it’s not necessarily reflected in the music, which, although exciting and danceable, does not sound overtly menacing to us. The EP opener, ‘General Ling’ gets straight to the point with a few vocal strands playing over each other. They go between English and Chinese lyrics as they seem to build a personality around General Ling Da Jie (General Ling Big Sister). ‘Gang Brain’ goes in another direction, reveling in thick bass beats – there are no vocals on this one, which allows for some interesting kettle drum sounds and a certain sense of voyage, seemingly more concerned about depicting an atmosphere. It’s a nice bridge to the record’s final track ‘Swear,’ which again lifts the intensity, this time introducing a male vocalist rapping in Chinese. The album as a whole combines a variety of strands of music, like trap, grime, dancehall and EDM in parts, but is largely a snippet of what we should eventually find on their debut album when it comes. Scan the QR code to listen:

Arthropods by 33EMYBW What is an arthropod? For 33EMYBW it is the isolated form of a mythical Jewish figure called a Golem. Perhaps, then, we should view this release as a follow-up to the producer’s excellent 2018 release, Golem, which, like Arthropods, appeared on Shanghai label SVBKVLT. Made up of seven tracks and three remixes by Hakuna Kulala’s Don Zilla, NAAFI’s Lechuga Zafiro and Hyperdub’s Ikonika, a crop of producers that once again prove SVBKVLT’s excellent outreach in global underground music, Arthropods is a gentle horror show, giving us gorgeous bell-sounds in parts and tortured screams in others. 33EMYBW is awesome at this, combining these bipolar ideas seamlessly, making an album that would get the dance floor hopping, but would also not feel out of place as a film score. ‘Symmetry’ opens Arthropods, loping gently at an easy pace, using robotic vocals and high-pitched synthesizers to set a bulbous oceanic scene. ‘Tentacle Centre’ follows and tears away this veil, immediately using hard, fast synthesizers to emote alarms, buttons being pressed, commotion, the arrival of something unfortunate. Later, ‘Arthropods,’ which features Li Jianhong, straddles a thin line, pacing us like victims in a dark and spooky hallway. While the album could certainly be read as a narrative, you can also take excellent tracks like ‘Arthropods’ and ‘Adam Bank’ as singular entities. The diversity that this album offers again affirms our love for 33EMYBW. Scan the QR code to listen:

WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 37

38 COVER STORY

THE BORDERLA Dispatches from the Edge of China

COVER STORY

ANDS C

hina tops a lot of lists, from population to hydroelectricity production, longest highspeed railway to most Olympic gold medals in table tennis. Another category in which the PRC is undisputed champion is the world's longest continuous land border. The Middle Kingdom’s quasichicken-shaped outline stretches for over 22,000 kilometers and separates the nation from 14 independent states (another number one): Afghanistan, Bhutan, DPRK (North Korea), India, Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan, Laos, Mongolia, Myanmar, Nepal, Pakistan, Russia, Tajikistan and Vietnam. China’s borders, aside from being a literal political and administrative dividing line, tell stories of shared cultural practices, foodstuffs, history and – in more recent times – development. As such, the nation’s borderlands are fascinating regions to explore and offer insight not only into the nuances of China itself, but also into life on the other side of the line. In the pages that follow, we explore the PRC’s borders with Mongolia, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea, Lao People’s Democratic Republic and the Islamic Republic of Pakistan.

By Benjamin Plafker

A LINE IN THE SAND

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40 COVER STORY

The border is quite literally a line in the sand, and the broad streets of Zamiin Uud seem to be in a constant tug of war with the Gobi Desert

COVER STORY

PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA – MONGOLIA

orth Asia is big sky country, which, as it usually does in this world, goes hand in hand with being long border country. Indeed, four of the world’s 10 longest land borders are to be found here, including the 4,630 kilometer stretch that separates the People’s Republic of China from Mongolia – China’s longest land border. The border is shared by three of China’s administrative regions: Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, Gansu Province and, of course, Mongolia’s main Chinese neighbor, Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region, where the crossing at Erenhot is located. Erenhot, and its Mongolian neighbor ZamynUud, are by no means nowhere, but the journey there certainly feels like that’s where you’re heading. My first trip there is a mostly successful hitchhiked journey from Zhangjiakou in Hebei province, a trek of nearly 500 kilometers, first through the vast expanses of Chahar Banner’s Right Flanks, then through the vaster expanses of the western reaches of Xilingol League (the region’s violent history of conquest and reconquest left its mark in the form of super cool administrative titles, with banners and leagues instead of counties and prefectures). Rides are plentiful until arriving at Chahar Youyi Houqi (come for the China-Mongolia-Russia trade fair, stay for the beautiful sunset, and avoid the sheep-gut soup (羊杂), if you please), where I am informed that I can either wait for the vegetable truck that ventures north once a week, or ride the night train to Erenhot. I choose the latter. Erenhot is a trading town of 75,000 people that, as is often the case with border towns, feels quite different from other cities of its size. It is where the Trans-Siberian Railroad changes gauge, and indeed it gives the impression that it is a city accustomed to translation: Chinese, Mongolian and Cyrillic script can be found on most business signage in the city, and the shushus have a look in their eye that tells me I’m not the first foreigner they’ve encountered. Many speak Russian and have lived or done business internationally. The city found its place on the map with the opening of the border to international trade in 1992, and in 2002 when the Dinosaur Fossil Museum was rebuilt and modernized. In that year the Deputy Secretary of Inner Mongolia’s Party Committee declared that “dinosaur culture is the pride of Erenhot.” For an alternative tourist attraction, check out the trade center, where you can find myriad products from Russia and Mongolia conveniently located near a park with some dinosaur-shaped bushes, providing visitors in a hurry a quick taste of Erenhot’s prehistoric pride. It costs roughly RMB100 to ride a Jeep from the Erenhot train station to Zamyn-Uud. Drivers stop first at the Chinese border station (get your

official, mint-condition exit stamp, fellow touristvisa holder!) and then at the Mongolian border station. In my transport, I am accompanied by university students from Mongolia who are studying in Beijing. When I ask about their lives in China their answers are confusing; as they rearrange the many domestic appliances they’re bringing home as gifts from their lives south of the border, they struggle to describe their opinions of China. They tell me that in the past they’d have preferred to go to Korea, but in recent years China’s advantageous position in the global economy is hard to ignore. We arrive in Zamym-Uud and the difference between a country of more than a billion and a country of three million is glaring. The border is quite literally a line in the sand, and the broad streets of Zamyn-Uud seem to be in a constant tug of war with the Gobi Desert. It is smaller and quainter than Erenhot, but a great window into Mongolia for those who do not wish to continue north through the desert. There are a number of restaurants in the main plaza where you can buy khoshoor, Mongolia’s fried version of jiaozi, filled with meat or potatoes, or, if you’re lucky, somebody might whip you up a plate of tsoyvin, chaobing’s northerly cousin. If you prefer to take advantage of Mongolia’s ample empty space, grab yourself some bread and cheese at the grocery store and you’ve got a picnic. While Mongolia is famous for its meat consumption, in the summer months dairy is the main nourishment, and the variety of cheeses, yogurts, creams and butters is astonishing. Grab some airag, fermented mare’s milk, to wash it all down, or rub it into your skin if you want to trap some summer heat to last through the winter. For those who do wish to continue on, the train to Ulaanbaatar departs in the evening and treats passengers to a glorious Gobi Desert sunrise upon awakening. Mongolia’s train culture is quite different from China’s: Cleanliness standards are higher, and I was treated to a Mongolian dubbed version of Back to the Future. But perhaps I got lucky.

42 COVER STORY

PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA – DEMOCRATIC PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF KOREA

he People’s Republic of China and Democratic People’s Republic of Korea’s diplomatic history dates back to October 1949, when the two newly founded republics established diplomatic relations. Roughly a year later, China would come to the aid of the DPRK during the War to Resist US

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There is simply the end of one country, a river, then the start of the other

Aggression and Aid Korea, a conflict more commonly referred to in the West as the Korean War. Today, the PRC and the DPRK are two of five self-proclaimed communist states still in existence, and relics of the conflict still dot the two nations’ 1,416-kilometer border. Perhaps nowhere is this more apparent than in Dandong, a city of well over two million people that lies directly across the Yalu River from the Korean city of Sinuiju. Along the waterfront in Dandong, the famous Yalu River Broken Bridge (wrecked as a result of US bombing in February of 1951) stands as a stark reminder of the two countries’ forged-in-blood relationship. The Broken Bridge itself is something of a tourist attraction these days, with visitors from across China and Asia at large coming to gawk at the 108-yearold structure, which was built by the Empire of Japan, and catch a glimpse of life on the other side of the Yalu in the DPRK. Tourists can also check out a number of Korean War-era anti-aircraft guns, along with a monument to Peng Dehuai, the Chinese general who led the People’s Volunteer Army – the Chinese force that fought to aid Korea.

When I visit the bridge on a crisp and clear March afternoon, Sinuiju appears frozen in time. The city’s iconic, unmoving Ferris wheel is visible from the viewing station at the bridge’s abrupt, broken end, as is a giant, circular concrete structure that experts are speculating may one day be a hotel. A man rides along the Sinuiju riverfront on a bicycle, but aside from him, I see no other signs of life. There is, however, much more action on the Chinese side of the Yalu. Situated roughly 100 meters upstream from the Broken Bridge is the Sino-Korean Friendship Bridge, which accommodates trains and vehicles traveling between the two nations. According to Simon Cockerell, the general manager and a tour leader at Koryo Tours – a leading North Korea travel company – this is the most popular crossing for tourists traveling overland into the DPRK. (Other crossings between China and North Korea do exist, while there is a single rail crossing between Russia and the DPRK.) Next to the bridges, hawkers sell Korean trinkets, from Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il pins and DPRK currency to Korean cigarettes and booze, and slow boats depart from a dock to cruise the marine border between the two countries. Along the road that runs the length of Dandong’s riverfront, and on the roads immediately behind it, are a myriad of shops selling imported Korean goods, as well as a number of restaurants specializing in food from both the northern and southern portions of the Korean peninsula. One of these restaurants is particularly conspicuous. The windows are blacked out with heavy curtains, and the only view inside from Binhai Gong Lu (which runs parallel to the Yalu River) is through the establishment’s small rotating glass door.

By Matthew Bossons

COVER STORY

THE GREAT COMMUNIST DIVIDE When my wife and I enter the eatery for dinner we are immediately greeted by a tall, strikingly beautiful Korean woman proudly adorned with a DPRK flag pin. Inside the mostly empty restaurant, television screens play news programming from south of Dandong, with Marshal Kim Jong-un featured prominently in much of the reporting. The menu features a mishmash of Korean fare; bibimbap, kimbap, kimchi and the famous ‘Pyongyang cold noodles,’ and dishes arrive quickly. Prices are reasonable and service is much friendlier than I’d been led to believe it would be for a Westerner. The staffers, one in particular, are also extremely inquisitive, asking questions about my home country and 2-year-old daughter. Even marriage came up in conversation. “Are foreign men nice – do they make good husbands?” our waitress asks my wife in Chinese. After explaining, in cliche form, that good and bad folks reside just about everywhere, my wife asks the server, who appears to be in her early 20s, if she can marry someone from outside her country. She silently shakes her head and our conversation comes to a close. I pay the bill and we head into the night. A post-dinner walk along the riverside promenade lays bare the major difference in development and infrastructure between Dandong and Sinuiju. The Chinese side of the Yalu is brightly lit up, with restaurant signage, hotel lights and a steady flow of vehicle and human traffic. On the Korean side: complete and total blackness. The following day, a hired car takes me along the border and out of the city. We pass a section of the Great Wall, followed by long stretches of metal fencing crowned with barbwire. Occasionally, sig-

nage informs people on the Chinese side of the border to refrain from interacting with folks on the other side of the line. After driving for about half an hour, my driver stops to purchase cigarettes at a small house-cum-shop located directly across from the border. I take the chance to ask the smoke salesman about his interactions with DPRK residents at the border fence. “I don’t really see people coming to the fence from the Korean side very often anymore. In decades past, Korean people – including military personnel – would sometimes come to the fence to trade and sell stuff,” the shopkeeper tells me. “Chinese people would sometimes cross over the fence into Korea to purchase goods. But not anymore; security is much tighter these days.” Another 20 or so minutes from the shopkeeper’s abode and we arrive at a ferry dock, where boats regularly depart to cruise the rural Korean shoreline – away from the relative development of Sinuiju. We board one of the vessels and huddle on the top deck alongside a mishmash of Chinese and Japanese tourists. The choppy boat ride – which some have fairly argued qualifies as a human safari – takes us distressingly close to the DPRK, at times coming within a couple of hundred meters of small villages and pastel-blue watchtowers. People too are visible, walking and biking along the small road that crosses the hilly terrain and connects the rustic settlements that line the Yalu River. While already common knowledge, the boat ride confirms that life on the North Korean side of the border is vastly different from the PRC. “[The DPRK and PRC] are completely different, frankly. There is not the kind of fade and gradual merging that defines the borders in most other places,” says Cockerell. “There is simply the end of one country, a river, then the start of the other.”

BORDER BOOM TOWN

By Matthew Bossons

44 COVER STORY

PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA – LAO PEOPLE’S DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC

Until 2011, Boten was a certifiable casino boomtown, with gambling halls, brothels, KTVs and nightclubs

hen we arrive at the border post in Mohan, on the Chinese side of the China-Laos border, it is well after dark. The hustle and bustle of daily foot and vehicle traffic has slowed, and only a handful of women linger around outside the customs checkpoint, hawking SIM cards and offering currency exchange services. And while the buzz of cross-border commerce and trade seems to have slowed by 8.30pm, a duty-free shop remains open, as does a large building packed with vendors selling jade jewelry and hand-carved wooden furniture. There are no customers though, just us. Clearing Chinese customs is relatively quick, with the border agent asking the regular questions before stamping our passports and pointing us in the direction of the entry checkpoint for the Lao People’s Democratic Republic (LPDR). On the 200- to 300-meter walk to the next checkpoint, it becomes abundantly clear that we’re on the frontier. There are no street lights, and dense jungle-y shrubbery abuts the pot-hole stricken, occasionally unpaved road. Cell phone flashlights are essential. Customs clearance on the Laos side is comparatively different: The clean and shiny customs hall, airport-style bag scanners and facial recognition tech we experienced leaving China are notably absent. Instead, we are greeted by a dimly-lit, musty customs hall and seemingly disinterested border agents. (The customs officers are so lax, in fact, that they actually let us walk back through the customs checkpoint after already entering Laos – to retrieve a forgotten bottle of duty-free vodka, of course.) Outside the customs hall – which is ornately shaped like a giant golden stupa, we discover that it’s even quieter than on the Chinese side. No hawkers, money changers or motor taxis, just a long, dark dirt road leading to the Laos border town of Boten. Big things are happening in Boten, and it may very soon be difficult to refer to the settlement as a ‘town.’ Declared a ‘Specific Economic Zone’ (SEZ) in 2003, Chinese businesses have moved in to help develop the area

COVER STORY 45

as part of Chinese President Xi Jinping’s Belt and Road Initiative. Considered a piece of President Xi’s flagship infrastructure project, Boten will become the first stop inside Laos along the Laos-China railway network, which will connect Kunming to the Laotian capital of Vientiane. The route will be part of the Kunming–Singapore Railway, otherwise known as the Pan-Asia Railway Network, and is expected to eventually link China to all of mainland Southeast Asia. It is currently anticipated that the Lao section of the transportation network will be completed in 2021. But there’s more to Boten than railway construction; Chinese-financed hotels, apartment complexes and tourist attractions – including a jungle park and ‘ancient city,’ are all planned or currently under development, according to promotional brochures from Yunnan Haicheng Group, the SEZ’s main developer. As a result of the ongoing construction work, “80% of Boten’s current population is Chinese,” estimates a local bar owner we spoke with, who originally hails from Xi’an. While there are a number of hotels scattered around the growing town center, the one we end up in is new, fancier than we’re used to and clearly catering to Chinese visitors. Check-in staff are Chinese and rooms are paid for in renminbi. The only Laotian people we encountered in the hotel were working in the deserted breakfast buffet restaurant, which served – you guessed it – Chinese food. The morning after our arrival, we set out to explore the SEZ in the light of day. The scale of the development is unquestionably massive, with towering, half-built apartment blocks wrapped in scaffolding dotted around town. Surrounding Boten, a massive swath of clear-cut red earth is traversed by excavators, tractors and trucks – presumably preparing the next stage of the settlement’s building boom. During our galivant through town, we see the occasional group of Chinese tourists, and there are numerous small bars and Chinese restaurants catering to the visitors. But overall, there is a slightly sleepy feel to

Boten. It wasn’t always this way, however. Until 2011, Boten was a certifiable casino boomtown, with gambling halls, brothels, KTVs and nightclubs – all the trappings of a weekend getaway for cashed-up Yunnan residents looking for a walk on the wild side. According to the New York Times, debauchery debuted in the city back in the early- to mid-2000s, when a company registered in Hong Kong signed a 30-year lease to develop the town into a tourist destination. This largely revolved around gambling, though, and by 2010 reports began to emerge that casino operators were locking up visitors who were unable to pay their debts. Government pressure mounted, and in 2011 the casinos were shuttered: Boten’s ‘betting boom’ had gone bust. There are still signs of Boten’s seedier past today, in the form of a couple of questionable drinking establishments, but there’s little doubt that Boten has moved on: We do not see a single slot machine on our visit and locals tell us the gambling is truly and fully done. The future now: development. According to statistics from the Ministry of Planning and Investment of LPDR, a total investment of USD500 million has been made in the Boten Beautiful Land Specific Economic Zone (the region’s official name) and 100% of the development is being managed by Chinese firm Yunnan Haicheng Group. In addition to tourism, sectors being developed include agriculture, livestock and manufacturing, as well as distribution logistics, telecommunications and public healthcare services. Like many before us who’ve traveled to Boten, our time eventually comes to leave – to the temples, night markets and waterfalls of Luang Prabang. We board a southbound bus near the LPDR customs house, and as we cruise through town one last time, we can’t help but think that if we ever do return to this far-flung frontier town, it will likely be a very different place.

46 COVER STORY

If you want to experience the glory of paradise, visit this route

PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA – ISLAMIC REPUBLIC OF PAKISTAN

“T

raveling from Kunming to Kashgar via Urumqi is full of wonders,” Tamoor Malik tells me via email, recounting his July 2018 journey from Yunnan province to Pakistan. “At one point, we were passing through rocky and hilly terrain, and then starts the desert – with red sand and strong winds. Windmills and crude oil pumping stations were a very common sight along the way, [showing] how energy-rich the area is.” Malik is a 31-year-old university student completing a Masters in Statistics in Kunming since 2016. He originally hails from Ghakhar Mandi in Pakistan’s Punjab province, and has traveled across the PRC-Pakistan border twice. When he first meets me at a hotel buffet in rural Guizhou, his cross-border adventures are among the first stories the passionate travel enthusiast shares. The main route crossing from China into Pakistan is a stunning stretch of asphalt known around the world as the Karakoram Highway (though it's known in China as Highway 314). The road, which runs over 1,200 kilometers from just north of Kashgar in China’s Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region to Abbottabad, Pakistan, is occasionally referred to as the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World.’ The route is among the highest highways on the globe, and is surrounded by some of the most stunning and diverse scenery in Asia: Towering peaks and glaciers, roaring rivers, mountain meadows, you name it. On the Chinese portion of the highway, travelers will pass two other international borders – the China-Afghanistan and China-Tajikistan lines. The last notable settlement along the Chinese side of the Karakoram is Tashkurgan – the administrative seat of Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County. Set along the highway, Tashkurgan is inhabited by folks of the Tajik ethnicity, alongside a significant population of Han laborers, according to former That’s editor Daniel Plafker, who covered the region for our annual Explore China travel guide. “The journey from Kashgar to Tashkurgan is like traveling in paradise,” says Malik. “It seems as if a painter has made a masterpiece with his eternal brush, containing trees, lakes, meadows, rivers and mountains. “I traveled [the road] twice, once from China to Pakistan and once from Pakistan to China,” Malik continues. On his first grand overland adventure, Malik opted for the slow

By Matthew Bossons

BORDER OF THE ‘IRON BROTHERS’

COVER STORY

train from Kunming to Urumqi, which took 45 hours. From there, he caught a 23-hour train to Kashgar. “I was the only foreigner on board,” says Malik, explaining that only himself and the train staff completed the entire journey. “All the locals were extremely excited to see me among them and everybody was trying to talk to me. They repeated the popular slogan ‘Pakistan and China – Iron Brothers.’” From Kashgar to the Pakistan border, he passed through Tashkurgan en route to Khunjerab Pass – the world’s highest elevation border crossing. On the Pakistani side lies – allegedly – the world’s highest ATM machine, a solar-powered cash dispenser operated by the National Bank Of Pakistan (NBP). To cross the border into Pakistan from China, Malik notes that it is necessary to purchase an international bus route ticket with a passport, and that the Pakistan-China border crossing is closed on weekends (also public holidays in Pakistan and China, according to tour providers). “You will have to show your ticket at [Chinese exit] immigration, which starts at around 1011am,” says Malik. “After you are done with immigration and have gotten the exit stamp in your passport, you will go to the other side of the customs hall, where your transportation will be waiting for you. You will have either a Pakistani or Chinese driver, depending on which ticket you have got.” Interestingly, the China-Pakistan border is very different than the other crossings discussed in this story – traveling between Chinese customs and Pakistani customs will take two to three hours. There is no immediate entry on the other side. On the Pakistani side, the customs and immigration office is based in Sost (or Sust), the last town before the Chinese border. “On the Pakistan side of the border, immigration is very simple; they just ask you to open your luggage and show what you bought for your ‘cousins and relatives.’ That’s all, no scanning,” says Malik. “One picture, one stamp and you are free from the entry process.” From Sost, most travelers will continue down the Karakoram Highway (known in Pakistan as N-35) to Gilgit, which serves as a center for hiking and mountaineering excursions in the Karakoram Range. When I press Malik on why people should venture this route into Pakistan, he has a simple answer: “If you want to experience the glory of paradise, visit this route.”

COMM UNITY

Higher Education School News, P50

INTERVIEW | COMMUNITY

HISTORY MAN PATRICK CRANLEY

Bringing Old Shanghai to Life Interview by Ned Kelly

Baltimore native Patrick Cranley first came to China as a graduate student in 1986, studying Chinese economics and politics. He returned to Beijing in 1995 as a businessperson, married and with two children. They moved to Shanghai in 1997, and were immediately captivated by the beauty of the city’s historic buildings and the stories behind them. So they started Historic Shanghai and the rest is, well, history… How did Historic Shanghai come about and what do you do? My wife Tina [Kanagaratnam] and I wanted to know more about Shanghai’s built heritage, but there was not much information easily available at the time. Every time we mentioned this, people unanimously said, “You need to find Tess Johnston, the author of A Last Look: Western Architecture in Old Shanghai – she knows lots about old Shanghai.” So we found Tess and in 1998 formed Historic Shanghai in our living room (in an historic house built in 1937, of course). From the beginning, the goal has been to help preserve Shanghai’s unique history by raising awareness and appreciation of its remarkable built heritage and social and cultural history. We do that by organizing walks, talks, film screenings, trips and exhibitions. We have built up a small library of resources like old maps, directories and memoirs, and we make a point of asking older residents (and ex-residents) about their invaluable memories of the old days. If you had to pick just one, which walk would you recommend?

There are so many interesting areas in Shanghai. It is difficult to single out just one as the top of the priority list, but I particularly like our ‘Three Cities’ walk, which starts on the Bund in the former International Settlement, winds through the earliest part of

the former French Concession, and then ends in the former ‘Chinese City,’ or Old City. It includes a huge range of buildings and a multitude of stories about the incredibly diverse group of people who made Shanghai into one of the world’s greatest cities – all in the spaces of three hours and a few kilometers.

tion, too. And they all have to be well-written. At book club meetings, we give a brief historical background to the book, and then we dive into the discussion. Readers can visit our website to find the list of upcoming books (QR code below).

I absolutely do not play favorites with heritage structures. There are too many exquisite buildings, in too many styles, from too many periods, and with so many stories, that it would be a severe injustice to pick just one.

Shanghai’s story is too complex to comprehend by reading just one book, so I would recommend trying to cut down the choices by focusing on a topic (a person, an event) and an era (Imperial, Republican, or post-Revolution periods), and then check the recommended reading list on our website. That’s also where you can find the events schedule, and posts on lots of interesting Shanghairelated topics. Most of our events are open to the general public, so we encourage people who are interested in learning more and perhaps getting involved in Historic Shanghai to attend an event or two. They usually find that our members are an engaging, eclectic group of people who are fun to share an historical adventure with.

Favorite building in Shanghai?

And if you could bring back one building that is now lost, which would it be?

Maybe the gangster Du Yuesheng’s home on the former Rue Wagner (now Ninghai Lu). There were so many ghosts, so many secrets in that old house. But it was sacrificed to build a highway and a park. A poor bargain, if you ask me.

How does the Historic Shanghai Book Club work, and what kind of books do you pick? We select books about Shanghai’s history, fiction and nonfiction, from different perspectives (Chinese, Western, female, male, different walks of life, different periods of history). We look for books that are as much as possible written contemporaneously, and well-researched current fiction and nonfic-

What book would you recommend to someone new to the history of Shanghai?

For more on Historic Shanghai scan the QR code.

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AROUND TOWN Britannica Celebrates 7 Years of Excellence

This academic year, Britannica International School celebrates its 7th year of excellence in delivering the best of British education to Shanghai’s parents and children, with examination results at IGCSE and A Level on a par with the best achieved in the city, and rivaling top UK schools back home.

SUIS GB x Zero Waste Shanghai Thursday, September 26 marked the inaugural SUIS Gubei Community Event, an opportunity for parents and teachers to chat and enjoy an evening of amazing events displaying the brilliance of their learners. SUIS GB hosted Paula Cuenca from Zero Waste Shanghai to inspire the community to work towards a greener future.

Matt Dickinson Takes Wellington Pupils to Zhumulangma and Back

Learning Spaces at WISS As part of their future-oriented approach to teaching and learning, WISS has new learning spaces in the Early Years. The new classrooms provide a variety of opportunities to learn creatively and are designed to help kids develop their curiosity and independence while gaining skills and knowledge.

Early September saw award-winning novelist and filmmaker Matt Dickinson join Wellington pupils for a weeklong visit of inspiring presentations, discussions and creative writing workshops themed around Zhumulangma (known in the West as Mount Everest) and the importance of maintaining a sense of adventure throughout one’s life. Matt revealed the danger, excitement and deeper issues associated with climbing Zhumulangma and applied it to setting personal goals and facing life’s challenges. His writing workshops gave pupils greater confidence in their writing skills.

Dulwich College Kindergarten Shanghai ‘Culture Mornings’

NAIS Pudong Early Years Open Morning on November 6 Join in for a morning of fun, play-based educational activities in a fantastic new Early Years environment at NAIS Pudong. It’s a wonderful opportunity to meet with current students and teachers, to experience classroom learning and to understand the attitudes, the education and the culture of NAIS Pudong. Sign up today!

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On DUCKS ‘Culture Morning,’ anyone who has a cultural talent or activity they would like to share with the community is welcomed to the stage. October in DUCKS saw many children demonstrate their cultural talents. Some sang their favorite songs in their home language, others performed traditional ancient poems and many audience members participated in riddle guessing. The performances were well received, and everyone had so much fun!

YCIS Shanghai Celebrates Founder’s Day with Events at all Campuses YCIS Shanghai’s recent 2019 Founder’s Day celebrations highlighted the school’s 26th anniversary, along with Yew Chung’s 87th anniversary. Including a live video broadcast with all YCIS locations worldwide, the day was packed with meaningful activities across the school’s five Shanghai campuses, including fun sports competitions in Puxi and ‘Founder’s Day Run’ fun runs in Pudong, plus adorable renditions of ‘Happy Birthday’ sung by ECE students.

ADVERTORIAL | COMMUNITY

ATTENTION DEFICIT HYPERACTIVITY DISORDER (ADHD) By Yang You

ttention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) is a behavioral disorder that includes symptoms such as inattentiveness, hyperactivity and impulsiveness. It is usually diagnosed when children are 6 to 12 years old. Many children go through phases where they’re highly active, restless or inattentive. This is often completely normal and does not necessarily mean they have ADHD. But if you think their behavior may be different from most children their age then it may be worth seeking professional advice. The exact cause of ADHD is unknown, but the condition has been shown to run in families and may be associated with imbalances in brain neurotransmitters. Other factors may include being born prematurely, having a low birth weight and smoking, alcohol or drug abuse during pregnancy. Although there’s no cure for ADHD, it can be managed with appropriate educational support, advice and support for parents and affected children (parent support groups), together with medical and expert psychological support and medication if necessary. Looking after a child with ADHD can be challenging and exhausting, but it’s important to remember that they cannot help their behavior. Some clues that may arise in day-today life include getting your child to sleep at night, getting ready for school on time, listening to and carrying out instructions, being organized, behavior at social occasions and when shopping. If you’re worried about your child, speak to their teachers first and then seek specialist advice, namely a child psychiatrist, pediatrician or learning disability specialist. There’s no simple test to determine whether you or your child has ADHD, but your specialist can make an accurate diagnosis after a detailed assessment and inter-

views. They may first suggest a period of observation to see if your child’s symptoms improve, stay the same or get worse. Then, if appropriate, a treatment plan should be arranged together between patents and specialist, and can involve medication or therapy. A combination of both is often used. Parents often hesitate about medications, and although they are not a permanent cure for ADHD, they may help the child to concentrate better, be less impulsive, feel calmer and learn and practice new skills. For parents, coping can be difficult at times. However, it’s always important to remember that a child with ADHD cannot help their behavior. If you’re looking after a child with ADHD, you may find the below advice helpful. • Plan the day so your child knows what to expect: A set routine can make a difference to how a child with ADHD copes with everyday life. • Set clear boundaries: Make sure everyone knows what behavior is expected; reinforce positive behavior with immediate praise or rewards. • Be positive: Give specific praise. Instead of saying a general, “Thanks for doing that,” you could say “You washed the dishes really well. Thank you.” This will make it clear to your child that you’re pleased and why. • Give instructions: If you’re asking your child to do something, give brief instructions and be very specific. • Incentive schemes: Set up your own incentive scheme using a points or star chart, so good behavior can earn a privilege. Try to focus on just one or two behaviours at a time. • Early intervention: Watch for warning signs. If your child looks like they’re becoming frustrated, overstimulated and about to lose self-control, intervene. Distract your child and remove them from the situation to estab-

lish calm. • Social situations: Keep them short and sweet. Invite friends to play, but keep playtimes short so your child doesn’t lose self-control. Avoid times when your child is feeling tired or hungry, such as after a day at school. • Exercise: Make sure your child gets regular physical activity daily, which can improve their quality of sleep. • Eating: Monitor what your child eats. If your child is hyperactive after eating certain foods, which may contain additives or caffeine, keep a diary and avoid these. • Stick to a routine: Make sure your child goes to bed at the same time each night and gets up at the same time in the morning. Avoid overstimulating activities in the hours before bedtime, such as computer games or watching TV. • Night time: ADHD can lead to sleep problems, which in turn can make symptoms worse. Establishing a sleep-friendly routine can help your child and make bedtime less of a battleground. • Support from school: Children with ADHD often have problems with their behavior and academic performance at school. Speak to your child’s teachers about any extra support your child may need. ADHD can be a challenge to manage. However, with support from parents, school and specialists, in the great majority of cases ADHD can be well managed with a satisfactory outcome for the child and family. Content provided by Yang You of St. Reiss Shanghai Medical Centre Phone: 5403 0228, 5403 8088 Address: Unit A, 19/F, 9 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Zhong Lu, Xuhui District

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EAT &

DRINK

Azabu Dining Contempory Cultural Contrasts, P59

The Soup List P56

La Maruja P58

Perch P62

ON THE GRILL

CHENXIA SHAO O’Mills Bakery’s Owner on Good Bread and Simple Food Interview by Cristina Ng

You might know Chenxia Shao better as Xiao Xiao, the effervescent chef and owner of the popular O’Mills Bakery. The Yongjia Lu restaurant’s runaway success with the wanghong crowd came as quite a surprise to her, and now she’s set to open the brand’s second location in the Jingan Kerry Center. Between bites of her delicious sourdough bread, we found out more about her mission. How long have you been involved in the culinary industry? I have loved delicious food since I was a teenager and started food blogging 12 years ago. I’ve also worked as a freelance writer and TV chef. I opened my first restaurant eight years ago. What was the original inspiration for O’Mills?

A few years ago I visited friends at their farm in the English countryside. I enjoyed homemade sourdough bread and healthy organic food in that serene environment. When I returned to Shanghai, I wanted to share this and encourage others to reconnect with nature through food. Why is it important to mill your own flour?

Product quality is the lifeblood of my restaurant, and we can’t compromise on that count. That doesn’t necessarily mean rare or expensive products, though. It means having knowing eyes and the patience to discover the freshest seasonal ingredients daily. At O’Mills, we prepare every dish like we would for our own families. When it’s for your family, you cook the best ingredients with joy and love. How will the new O’Mills at the Jingan Kerry Center present a unique experience?

We will keep the simple, natural and earthy style while adding new elements. For example, it will be more like a backyard garden with workshops. Also, the product line will expand to add more handmade

“While I was at Stone Barns, I saw them poach eggs utilizing the heat generated by the compost pile” fermented foods and vegan options. As the location is in the heart of the city, it captures Shanghai’s modern lifestyle. We hope to provide nourishment that allows guests to slow down their busy lives through the O’Mills experience. We know you travel often to meet chefs and share ideas. What experience has left a lasting impact?

My experience visiting Blue Hill at Stone Barns was very enlightening. Dan Barber works to preserve original high-quality seeds without the influence of industrialization. He also educates his entire team on natural agriculture. When it comes to cooking, he focuses on bringing out the real flavor of the ingredients, without excessive seasoning or garnishing. By challenging the modern way of cooking and enjoying food, he encourages others to consider the larger global impact of food choices. While I was at Stone Barns, I saw

them poach eggs utilizing the heat generated by the compost pile instead of wasting other resources. In my case, I want to provide my guests with the highest quality food possible in Shanghai. I want everyone to understand what makes really good bread – freshly milled flour and sourdough culture. What accomplishment of your career has made you most proud?

I taught myself how to make the sourdough bread starter and baking techniques. Making sourdough bread is like alchemy; subtle changes in temperature and humidity will make different loaves of bread. That’s why I traveled for three years to learn from masters and chefs all over the world. I’m grateful to them for their generous advice and guidance, which helped me improve. O’Mills is due to open in the Jingan Kerry Center soon, for now you can visit 110 Yongjia Lu, by Jiashan Lu 永嘉路110号, 近嘉善路 (6209 2952)

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GRAPE VINE WIN! Autumn Crab Feast for Two at Courtyard by Marriott Shanghai Changfeng Park Hotel

Pumpkin spice frenzy has just about reached its peak with Starbucks adding pumpkin spice cold brew to their PSL options. Dal Cuore is also giving their gelato a makeover for the season with pumpkin, Musang King durian, Yunnan Mandarino and riso flavors.

Carnivores should hit up the St. Regis’s Bespoke casual European eatery or Meatopia by Stone Sal, which just opened in Pudong. For Korean barbecue, Mark Klingspon (The Nest, The Cannery, Rye & Co) is behind a new free-flow Korean barbecue and ganbei joint called Juju. Unfortunately, Nakama’s primo yakiniku cuts are moving from Taiyuan Lu to Jianguo Xi Lu. There will likely be a gap in service, and the new location doesn’t have space for Ochobo. Fingers crossed Ochobo finds a new space soon. We recently visited the new Oxalis at One Museum Place (we like the halibut), and you can also expect the third Kun Thai to open in the same mall soon. In café news, there’s a new branch of Peet’s behind Jing’an Temple as well as a Brut Eatery coming to Jiangning Lu soon. Cyclo has returned to Jing’an with a new concept called Pho To Shop by Cyclo. It’s being billed as a simple menu of Cyclo best-sellers. Also expanding their reach, the second Co. Cheese and third Joe’s Pizza are both opening on the corner of Shaanxi Nan Lu and Nanchang Lu soon. Joining them is yet another Tims Coffee Shop, Hong Kong desserts, Japanese robotayaki and more. Lastly, Northern Thai restaurant Kin is due to open the first of three planned locations in two weeks on Yongkang Lu.

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The sweet scent of osmanthus marks Shanghai’s hairy crab season. To indulge in a crustacean carnival, all you have to do is head to Courtyard by Marriott Shanghai Changfeng Park Hotel for a Crab Feast Weekend dinner buffet. Pavilion all-daydining restaurant is a solid choice for freshly cooked steaks, seafood, charcuterie and more. In addition to those tempting items, Head Chef Jiang has added a creative array of crab dishes to be paired with premium Shaoxing wine. Additionally, diners that book via the hotel’s official WeChat platform also receive a complimentary dish of rice with braised abalone in oyster sauce. Finish off your crab feast by indulging at the DIY chocolate fountain. Want to give it a try? The hotel is offering two free coupons for That’s Shanghai readers. To win, simply scan the That’s Shanghai QR code and wait for the Lucky Draw announcement.

> 99 Danba Lu, by Yunling Dong Lu 丹巴路99号, 近云岭东路 (400 118 1585)

BREAKING BITE

Hairy Crab Delights Ever wondered why Shanghai goes crab crazy two months out of the year? Join the UnTour Crab Feast on November 12 to see why the crustaceans were immortalized in verse by Tang Dynasty poets. Walk the streets of Shanghai’s Old Town, an area that is currently disappearing lane by lane, to sample the local delicacy in an authentic setting. The classic dishes on offer include wontons in hairy crab broth, lion’s head meatballs with roe and more. Learn the multi-step process of cracking crab open and discover why traditional Chinese medicine suggests pairing them with plenty of huangjiu (Chinese brandy). > Untourfoodtours.com

E D I T E D B Y C R I S T I N A N G / D I N I N G @ U R B A N A T O M Y. C O M

BREAKING BITE

Stone Brewing Ditches the Milk It’s hard to beat a warm chocolate chip cookie dunked into a glass of milk, but we’d honestly prefer an adult beverage like beer. Stone Brewing has the right idea, casting off the milk in favor of four beercookie duos. Kick things off with the seasonally appropriate ChaiSpiced Imperial Russian Stout and a pumpkin spice cookie. Next, nibble Strictly Cookies’ flavor-of-the-month, caramel apple crunch alongside Stone Wazzle Barrel-Aged Sour. Drinking Stone Go To IPA with a cinnamon bun cookie also sounds good, there’s a brew that tastes like carrot cake that we want to try. That Juli Goldenberg/ Monkey Paw/Stone 24 Carrot Golden Ale comes with a ‘Go Nuts’ cookie.

> Nov 8, 11.30am-2am; RMB158. Stone Brewing Tap Room, 1107 Yuyuan Lu, by Fenggang Lu 愚园路1107号, 近凤冈路 Nearest metro: Jiangsu Lu, 5 mins. (6226 2510)

BREAKING BITE

Legendary Kowloon Opulence Meets Modern Canto Cuisine at Lunch Paying homage to the Hong Kong nightlife stalwart of the same name, The Shanghai EDITION’s Canton Disco introduces Shanghai diners to the glitz and glamour of Kowloon’s past, paired with creative takes on Hong Kong dishes and disco-ready cocktails. And now, you can sample these Cantonese favorites by day. Chef de cuisine Michael Janczewski and co. have built new lunch sets around signature roast meats (Iberico pork char siu, roast goose or soy chicken). Groups may choose from Orchid, Bamboo or Chrysanthemum sets starting from RMB288 per person. Highlights include smoked duck breast salad, Wagyu carpaccio, Mom’s ‘mostly cabbage, a little bit of pork’ dumplings, crispy pork hock and more. Lunch is available from 11.30am to 2pm.

> Canton Disco, 2/F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu 南京东路199号上海艾迪逊酒店2楼, 近江西中路 (5368 9521)

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E AT & DR INK | F E AT UR E

AUTUMN SOUPS Warming Bowls for the Soul By Cristina Ng

We could eat soup all year long, and we’re not just talking about cold ones like gazpacho. Still, our consumption ramps up with the dropping temperatures. From miso soup to creamy clam chowder, who doesn’t love a convenient, steaming hot and nutrient packed meal-in-one? Here’s a few of our favorites from around town.

Brut Eatery

Lizzy’s All Naturals

Dashu Wujie

This small chain of cafes has just revamped their menu for fall, and black truffle matsutake chicken soup (RMB46) is one of the new items. The bowl comes with a scoop of quinoa, sliced chicken, mushrooms and a tangle of kale. Then a nourishing clear chicken broth is poured from a teapot. A candle is lit under the remaining black truffle and mushroom flavored soup, so it stays warm until you add the rest.

Although we love spring and summer, we hate when Lizzy’s All Naturals stops selling their warm blends. Thankfully they’re back, so take advantage and enjoy as much antioxidant-rich pumpkin, creamy cauliflower, rich mushroom, tangy tomato basil, comforting miso and anti-inflammatory carrot as you can. In addition to purchasing individually (RMB34-36), you can also get them as part of a cleanse set (from RMB218).

You can order this masterful steamed Fujian-style soup with 18 exotic ingredients at all branches of the elegant vegetarian restaurant chain Dashu Wujie, including the one with a Michelin star on the Bund. For more casual occasions, we recommend the Xuhui location. If you’ve had this soup once, you will never forget it due to a rotating cast of flavorful ingredients with pumpkin, mushrooms, chestnut and bamboo pith starring this season. Make sure to eat it slowly from top to bottom rather than mixing the bowl, because each layer tastes different.

> WeChat ID: BrutEatery (available at all locations except Yuyuan Lu)

Pure & Whole We have trouble choosing our favorite order at this vegetarian eatery. There are days when the Pure & Whole Thai soup (RMB30/small, RMB48/large), with sweet potato, tomato, lime, kale, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, green chili and coconut broth, is exactly what we are craving. On less hungry days, we gravitate towards the green goddess (RMB29/small, RMB47/ large). It’s a satisfying blend of asparagus, broccoli, green pepper and cilantro. > pureandwhole.com

> WeChat ID: lizzysallnatura1

Tribe Every season, this health-conscious eatery goes all out with colorful new menu items, and we are big fans of their ‘Turn Up for Tomato’ soup (RMB30). They uses the best tomatoes, cauliflower, onions, garlic, basil and parsley, because they follow that adage that ‘food is fuel.’ The addition of herbed breadcrumbs adds the right amount of naughty to an otherwise nice bowl of food.

> 1/F, 291 Fumin Lu , by Xinle Lu 富民路291号1楼, 近长乐路 (6093 2982)

> 392 Tianping Lu, by Hengshan Lu 天平路392号, 近衡山路 (3469 2857)

Polux Ending things on a much more decadent note, we can’t leave off Polux by Paul Pairet. Quintessentially Parisian, the French Onion Soup (RMB80) is a steaming bowl of comforting beef broth laden with silken curls of sautéed onions underneath a crouton and melted cheese cap. We could live off that, followed up by a sweet plate of ‘Raspberries Essential.’ > No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 新天地太仓路181弄5号, 近黄陂南路 (6333 9897)

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A D V E R T OR I A L | E AT & DR INK

YUE CHINESE RESTAURANT

Contemporary Dining at Pullman Shanghai South

alling all Cantonese and Shanghainese food lovers, the Pullman Shanghai South has just launched their newest restaurant, Despite being newly-opened, the exciting meals at Yue are already fusing elements of the two popular Chinese regional cuisines in perfect harmony. Chef Li is from Guangdong, and he incorporates experience from a 20-year career into his cooking. There are many restaurants around town that mix influences on the menu, but one way Yue stands apart is by doing it on the same plate. For example, honey lacquered Cantonese char siu pork neck is served next to deepfried fish fillet in classic Shanghai-style contained by a gorgeous ball-shaped web of spun sugar. You haven’t mastered Cantonese cuisine unless you can produce crystal clear double-

boiled soups, and Yue succeeds on that count. There are soups made from prized items such as abalone and sea cucumber. Or go with fresh morel mushroom and bamboo mushroom pith in flavorful chicken stock. Either way, you’ll be impressed. Stewed beef with honey and soy hits the balance between the two regions. Orange peel and star anise nod to the dish’s Cantonese provenance, while tender Wagyu beef and a sprinkle of osmanthus appeal to local tastes. One of the most Shanghainese items is seafood rice, dried scallop and bok choy vegetables in broth. Pao fan (poached rice) is a fond childhood memory upgraded by adding crispy rice and lots of seafood. After all these delicious dishes, the best ending is a small bowl of mango sago cream and pomelo. Just don’t forget to try the dim sum on your next visit.

Price: RMB300-500 Who’s going: business travelers, local office workers Good for: family meals, dim sum breaks, social events

Yue Chinese Restaurant, 1/F (hall) & 2/F (private room), Pullman Shanghai South, 1 Pubei Lu, by Liuzhou Lu 浦北路1号, 近柳州路, 上海中星铂尔曼大酒店1层(大堂)和2层(包间). Open daily, 11.30am-2pm; 5.30-9.30pm (2426 8888)

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E AT & DR INK | NE W R E S TAUR A N T S

LA MARUJA

Sultry Spanish Pinxtos By Sophie Steiner

The Place La Maruja, like taitai in Chinese, has a connotation far beyond ‘housewife.’ She is a powerful, influential, glamorous badass that can move mountains with the snap of a perfectly manicured fingernail. Women want to be her, and men want to be with her, making her the perfect entertainer and host. Helmed by Pol Garcia (formerly of El Patio), this restaurant embodies that sentiment. Imported products are the hero of this sexy Spanish hot spot that pays homage to gastronomic market concepts like Mercado San Miguel in Madrid and Mercado La Boqueria in Barcelona.

The Food

There’s a range of tapas starting in the north of Spain from Garcia’s Basque country hometown, San Sebastián. Madrid and Malaga style nibbles represent the central and southern regions. In addition to traditional style tapas, there are also some more whimsical in presentation and flavor. From an appetite-whetting set of cubed Manchego cheese, aged to varying degrees in aromatic olive oil to the last lick of soufflelike savory cheesecake dessert, the meal was full of excitement. It is appropriate to start with the ‘Pintxo

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Gilda’ (RMB48), which helped put San Sebastián on the culinary map. La Maruja adds their own spin on the briny combination of anchovies threaded through green olives and paired with pickled hot peppers by serving it in a creamy anchovy mayo that we’d totally bottle and carry everywhere if it was socially acceptable. The refreshingly light ‘El Gazpachito’ (RMB38), featuring glistening spheres of watermelon for sweetness, serves as an ideal palette cleanser for the richer food to come. Next up, the presentation of the ‘Tortilla de Pulpo a la Gallega’ (RMB68) is exquisite, but we can’t say the addition of chewy octopus is welcome. In contrast, ‘Las Bombas de la Barceloneta’ (RMB58) lives up to its flavor bomb name in both appearance and taste. There’s nothing to dislike about crispy globes of fried creamy potato and Iberico ham. Tangy tomato sauce and more of that addictive garlic mayo make this next-level delicious. Take a good dish and make it better by ordering the ‘Huevos Estrellados’ (RMB58) with Iberico Ham (RMB20). The result is a layered plate of gluttony starting with sweet, earthy, nutty Jamon Iberico with fat that melts like butter piled onto crispy, thin French fries and a perfectly fried egg with crisp edges and runny yolk. At the very bottom, sweet onion jam serves to balance the saltiness of the other components. The textural contrast between the deepfried squid legs and pan-fried squid heads in the ‘Txipirones Pelayo’ (RMB78), together with the color juxtaposition of the black squid ink aioli and white mayonnaise, makes

this eye-catching dish noteworthy. Spain isn’t known for overly sugary desserts, so the slightly savory ‘La Tarta de Queso de la Maruja’ (RMB48) makes sense. Sharp buttery Mahon mixed with cream cheese produces a fluffy, light cheesecake that matches the accompanying scoop of raisin and Malaga-infused ice cream with a hint of honey. 2.5/3

The Vibe

The most famous Maruja of all time, the late ebullient Spanish actress Marujita Díaz, presides over the restaurant from a full wall display. Her vivacious smile and an eclectic mix of popular songs redone in retro jazzy style a la Postmodern Jukebox encouraged us to order up Lolea sparkling sangrias before we even sat down. The bar and patio are often busy in the evenings, as exploding laughter alternates with rapidfire Spanish chitchat, rivaling the volume of the music. If Spanish had a similar word for renao, it would perfectly describe the lively atmosphere of La Maruja. 1.5/2

Total Verdict: 4/5

Price: RMB200-400 Who’s going: Spaniards, curious locals and other tapas lovers Good for: Spanish food cravings, casual cocktails, patio catch-up sessions

2/F, 210 Jinxian Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu, 进贤路210 号, 近陕西南路 Nearest Metro: Huaihai Zhong Lu, 8 mins. Open Tue-Sun, 5pm-12.30am, kitchen closes at 11.30pm (6258 2801)

NE W R E S TAUR A N T S | E AT & DR INK

AZABU DINING

Amped Up Japanese-French Fusion By Cristina Ng

The Place For a while, Shanghai was all about contemporary izakaya-style venues like Jeju Izakaya and Oha. We were patiently waiting for the next hot one to appear, when Azabu Dining snuck in below the radar. They opened at the end of last year on Nanchang Lu, across from Turkish institution Pasha. Combining Japanese ingredients with French and American influence, Azabu turns out several intriguing small bites and traditional Japanese standards in a serene setting. On their diminutive first floor, Azabu has five bar seats opposite an open kitchen. After ascending a breathtakingly beautify spiral staircase made of unfinished wood, you’ll see it’s bigger than it seems. In addition to a modestly-sized main dining area, there’s a private dining room that fits ten people and a secluded terrace table for two.

The Food

If you want to put yourself at the mercy of the chef, omakase dining sets are available from RMB500-900 per person. You have to book the omakase option ahead of time, so we stuck to the menu, choosing from sushi, sashimi, cold appetizers, hot mains, rice and noodles. While not expecting much more from a five fish mixed sashimi platter (RMB258) than quality seafood, the addition of vibrantly colored signature house-made sea salt in red wine and yuzu flavors whispers that there are more delights to come. Accenting thick slabs

of tuna belly, saba mackerel, aji mackerel, salmon and octopus with salt, freshly ground wasabi or pickled vegetables is a lively start. Kanpachi with homemade tofu skin (RMB88) is their most popular dish thanks to a vibrant dressing of lemon juice, sesame oil and soy sauce. The noodle-like shreds of bean curd and delicately arranged curls of pale-pink fish with silver skin soak up all that sauce. Next up, a grilled asparagus (RMB48) log cabin with a roof of circular white daikon tiles houses egg yolk foam. The hollandaise inspired emulsion belies a firm mastery of French cookery while the salty yolk is rooted in Asia. Another important French cooking skill is making stock, and they nail it on the uzaku (RMB85). Grilled freshwater eel is covered in a delicately sweet tare sauce before charcoal seals the juices beneath a thin layer of crispy skin. The eel sits on an intricately fanned piece of cucumber that shows off serious Chinese knife kills. Eel stock with a generous amount of rice vinegar is poured tableside. Baked sanma fish with slow-cooked black beans and pickled basil (RMB58) and sea urchin sushi rice (RMB260) are both pleasing, although portions are small for the price. Still, if you are the type to swoon at the sight of uni, raw egg yolk and salmon roe, the latter is worth the splurge. As believers that every good Japanese meal should end with ice cream, we were not disappointed by the black sesame and creamy sea salt (both RMB28) flavors. 2.5/3

The Vibe The clarity with which this chef understands Japanese ingredients is even more impressive when you find out he’s Chinese. It turns out that both he and the owners are locals, and a trip to the ‘Land of the Rising Sun’ was the impetus for starting the Japanese fusion concept in Shanghai. Just as the menu fuses ideas, the design incorporates Asian aesthetics and Western minimalism neatly bound by the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi. Natural materials like wood and linen are used, while ornamentation is limited to freshly arranged flowers. At one point in our meal, we noticed a single chip in an otherwise perfectly round and beautiful matte black bowl. Our dining companion remarked, “There’s beauty in imperfection.” Funnily enough, that imperfection memo wasn’t sent to the kitchen. There we find that the addition of aggressive flavors to a typically subtle cuisine is beyond reproach. 1.5/2

Total Verdict: 4/5 Price: RMB400-900 Who’s going: mostly local and overseas Chinese Good for: romantic dinners, small groups, private dining

262 Nanchang Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu, 南昌路262号, 近陕西南路 Nearest Metro: Huaihai Zhong Lu, 7 mins. Open daily, 5.30-11pm (5418 9217)

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E AT & DR INK | NE W R E S TAUR A N T S

GOLDEN LILY

A Mixed French and Vietnamese Menu for Nomadic Appetites By Cristina Ng

The Place Golden Lily resides in a sprawling property on Jianguo Xi Lu replete with a retro British bar, mock frescos and gorgeous terrace that you might remember as the Notting House. The food is French-Vietnamese fusion. Considering the French influence already present in Vietnamese cooking, that seems like an easy menu to execute. In addition to a China Eastern pilot, the other partners have ties to Pho Joy and Roof 325. Keeping things interesting, their chef hails from Yunnan.

The Food

Golden Lily serves a fairly affordable mix of French and Vietnamese dishes with things like Thai tom yum kung soup, beef carpaccio or burrata cheese salad thrown in for good measure. Pan-Asian meets European is a much more accurate description.

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We stuck to Asian items for our starters, and they do Vietnamese spring rolls (RMB58) pretty well. The pork, prawn and vegetable filling is flavorful, and they don’t skimp on the fish sauce which is much appreciated. Less successful are the Thai-style shrimp pancakes (RMB78) due to lackluster texture. Pork neck (RMB78) is a delicious cut of meat ideal for grilling, but too thin slices have lost too much fat without acquiring a char. A boldly pungent chili sauce does its best to save the day. You can’t judge a Vietnamese restaurant without ordering the pho (RMB78), and they do a fairly decent one. Simmering the stock for six hours imparts a beefy flavor, although it could use a stronger hand with the spices and aromatics – especially star anise. Still, the beef is tender, the noodles are supple and the tendon melts in the mouth. Fresh basil, Thai coriander, scallions, fresh chili and lime perk things up. 1.5/3

The Vibe The restaurant is bustling with Chinese guests and does very well at lunchtime due to RMB78 lunch sets. This part of Jianguo Xi Lu is relatively low on reasonable-priced restaurants – for reference, Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire is across the street – so the mostly cheap menu and always cheerful service is a welcome addition. And with a welcoming bar, you can always pop in for some spring rolls and a beer. 1.5/2

Total Verdict: 3/5

Price: RMB80-250 per person Who’s going: lots of Chinese diners, neighborhood folks Good for: lunch sets, quiet dinners

515 Jianguo Xi Lu, by Wulumuqi Nan Lu, 建国路路 515号, 近乌鲁木齐南路 Nearest Metro: Zhaojiabang Lu, 9 mins. Open daily, 11am-midnight (5465 1072)

A D V E R T OR I A L | E AT & DR INK

S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF COMPETITION GREATER CHINA

Young Chefs on a Journey to Make Their Dreams Come True

Like previous editions, the 4th S.Pellegrino Young Chef competition nurtures the future of gastronomy by discovering and promoting young talents. Long-time supporters of the gastronomic community S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna run this competition to give young chefs the courage to chase their dreams and realize their potential. In the lead up to the Greater China Region Finals, this year’s competitors have been working with their regional mentor on a signature dish to be judged by a prestigious panel of judges. Regional winners continue their journeys at the Grand Finale in Milan, Italy. Technical skill, creativity and expression of personal values are the criteria for selection. By proving that they will become a catalyst for positive change, the victorious S.Pellegrino Young Chef will be a high profile part of future Young Chef competitions.

Regional Mentor – Dong Zhenxiang This year’s competitors have the good luck of being mentored by Dong Zhenxiang of Da Dong Peking duck fame. With numerous accolades under his belt, the master of Chinese Italian cuisine can be trusted to impart his deep knowledge of traditional Chinese cooking as well as modern international cuisine. As a mentor, what is your greatest responsibility to the young chefs?

I want to guide them to use their life experiences to create a dish that represents them. Young chefs should have a goal that guides their career and keeps them on the correct path. As a mentor, my job is to help them find that path. How important is it to stay true to your cultural heritage when cooking on the global stage? We are representing China in a global competition, so naturally, the dishes the candidates create should reflect Chinese culture and be an international expression of Chinese cuisine. Ingredients, cooking techniques, flavor pairings and presentation can all be used to reflect Chinese elements.

Juror – Jacqueline Qiu

As a female professional in the culinary industry, Jacqueline Qiu has held her own in a maledominated field in a Shanghai five star hotel kitchen as well as a food star on Dragon TV Star Channel. Last year you were a mentor. How has your role evolved this year?

As a mentor, I gave the participants suggestions

and guidance from the early stages to help them give their best performance. As a juror, I am focused on whether or not they accomplish key points and award points based on judgment.

Juror– Umberto Bombana

Italian chef and co-owner of three-Michelinstarred 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, Umberto Bombana has made huge contributions to the field in this region with restaurants in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing.

How will you pass on your knowledge to this year’s crop of young chefs? First of all, I think stability is an essential quality for a chef. Today’s young chefs are constantly bombarded by multiple sources of information, which can be both a good and a bad thing. Many young chefs want to open a restaurant after just a few years in the industry, but it is no easy thing to become a head chef. It requires years of hard work and a stable, temperate mindset focused on long-term goals. I hope to be able to pass on this attitude to the young chefs in the competition.

The other important thing is bringing together different cultures and cuisines. As an Italian chef, I try to offer diners an authentic culinary experience attuned to the local trends and preferences. The young chefs in the competition are representing China, and I hope to see Chinese elements in their dishes.

Juror– Chen Lanshu

One of Asia’s top female chefs, Chen was behind the award-winning Le Moût in Taichung, Taiwan. Although she decided to close in 2018, the restaurant was 28th on Asia’s 50 Best

Restaurants 2017.

You have found success by combining classical French technique with your heritage. How will you help the young chefs do the same in a manner that is authentic to themselves? I think a good cuisine or delicious food is achieved by mastering techniques, which include an understanding of the characters and the essence of produce. When it comes to great cuisine, personal style and cultural heritage are key. If young chefs strengthen their skills and food knowledge, their style will develop naturally.

Juror – Vicky Lau

Hong Kong-born Vicky Lau moved to the United States at 15 and discovered the culinary field at Le Cordon Bleu in Thailand after completing studies in graphic communication at NYU. Her Tate Dining Room & Bar is recognized as a Top 20 Restaurant in Hong Kong by Hong Kong Tatler, as well as receiving to one Michelin star in 2019. You have the most visual background of the jurors this year. How will that inform your judging?

My visual background will take a hike away from this competition. For me, taste and respect for ingredients always come first. Next, the organization and the ethos behind a contestant’s cooking are important factors to evaluate. Witness the 10 contenders compete at the 4th S.Pellegrino Young Chef Competiton on Nov 21 at the Bellagio Shanghai, 188 Bei Suzhou Lu, by Zhapu Lu, 北苏州路188号, 近乍浦路 (3680 6666)

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E AT & DR INK | NE W B A R S

STRAIGHT NO CHASER PERCH

Neighborhood Vibes and Thoughtful Cocktails By Cristina Ng

For Shanghai’s aspiring bars, this is a busy time of year. During October Holiday, the announcement of the World’s 50 Best Bars 2019 revealed that two Shanghai bars earned spots. Both owned by Shingo Gokan, Speak Low came in at number 33 while Sober Company made it to 45. Awards season continues with the DRiNK Magazine Bar Awards 2019 on December 9. Invitations to vote have already been sent out. Oha Group, Birds of Paradise, Up Shanghai, Beer Lady and Ars & Delecto are just a few Shanghai nominees vying for recognition.

Fever-Tree Brand Ambassador and erstwhile proprietor of Tailor Bar, Eddy Yang has been laying low planning his next move. After six months, he’s finally announced a venture called Chameleon. You can expect it to change radically every six months, including decorations and menu, hence the name.

On Xiangyang Lu, Daniel An’s Don Club had its grand opening party in mid-October. Nearby, construction has commenced for Geo Valdivieso’s new concept, Broken Dagger. Watch this space for more details. Over on Fumin Lu, Funkadeli is temporarily closed while they build a staircase to their new eatery Italo.

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fter another blazing hot and humid Shanghai summer, we were especially eager to welcome the transition to fall. The problem is that the typically small window of comfortable weather has shrunk even further, with lows hitting below 15-degrees as early as mid-October. Enter Perch, a small-sized bar with a humongous wraparound terrace (seriously, follow it around the building, you will be surprised how much room there is). On our first visit, we sunk into the cushioned al fresco seats and thought to ourselves, “Here’s the bar we’ve looking for all summer.” If the bird-themed name didn’t tip you off, Perch has loose ties to The Rooster down the street. While that means some of the key guys are involved, they are going for a different experience. There will be no sports on TV or noisy parties, but there will be after work wind downs and casual catch-ups. An ambitious list of drinks comes from Bryant Bagsiyao (formerly of Dahlia), who

is no stranger to playful cocktails. Some of his best here include ‘Grass Stains’ and ‘London Leaves’ (both RMB58). Both benefit from herbaceous notes, and the former is an inspired interpretation of the classic smash cocktail featuring gin, basil, cucumber and elderfruit syrup. The other Havana Club 3-year-old rum-based drink is sour from lime and passionfruit oleo with a complex sweetness from green tea syrup and fresh shiso leaf. Spicy options like ‘Ginger Vitus’ and ‘Phoenix’ (RMB58) are worth a try. We love frothy cocktails, so the gingery vodka-based beverage with egg white, Sichuan chili, lemongrass and passionfruit is a favorite. ‘Phoenix’ has a fiery flavor from bell pepper, lemongrass and Sichuan chili that would benefit from switching the tequila for its smokier relative, mezcal. Need something stronger? ‘Double G’ (RMB58) delivers both Beefeater and Peddlers gins in a grapefruit, elderflower liqueur, lemon, rosemary and soda-filled goblet. Beer lovers might want to try Shanghai Love beer cocktails, like the draft margarita or the mule (both RMB45) – there’s also straight-up brews – while oenophiles may choose red, white, rosé or sparkling wines (from RMB48). Food is simple but does the trick. We like the house-cured salmon bruschetta (RMB88) with orange, beets and dill sour cream as well as turmeric-flavored hummus (RMB48) served with warm puffy squares of pita. When it comes down to it, we can’t remember the last time we had such pleasant cocktails for under RMB100. Taking that and the friendly neighborhood feel into account, we’ll be back to Perch often, even in winter. Bring a sweater, just in case.

Room 107, 445 Jiangning Lu, by Wuding Lu 江宁路 445号107室, 近武定路 Nearest metro: Changping Lu, 14 mins. Open Tue-Sun, 11am-midnight (137 6482 6935)

NE W B A R S | E AT & DR INK

CALL ME BY MY NAME How to Order Like a Professional Drinker By Logan R. Brouse

om Collins, John Collins, Juan Collins, Phil Collins - these are all variations on a drink (and one is an awesome singer). A Tom Collins is a classic grandpa drink that is made from gin, soda, lemon and sugar served in a highball glass (aka collins glass). To make a John Collins one would swap out the gin for vodka. For a Juan Collins, you would swap out the gin for tequila. And for Phil Collins you hit play on ‘Something in the Air Tonight’. “Are all drinks in collins glasses called a Collins?” you ask, while pouring a shot of aquavit into a collins glass and staring menacingly at me with your beady Swedish eyes. No, strawman that plagues my articles. If you serve a base spirit with some soda and ice with the optional addition of citrus wedge in a collins glass, you get a highball. Whiskey, vodka and tequila can all join the highball family once you add ice and soda water. Add sour mix, and you have a Collins. Most bar orders are variations on themes. Let’s start simple. If you order a whiskey neat that means you want your booze straight up with no ice. If you ask for a dry (or bone dry) martini, you are letting your bartender know that you want less (or much less) vermouth with your chilled base spirit (vodka or gin). This basic knowledge helps us see themes on cocktail menus. If something is

called Mexican, there’s a good bet it will feature tequila or mezcal. For example, a Mexican mule replaces a Russian mule’s vodka with tequila. Similarly, Irish coffee is spiked with whiskey. As for me, I contain so much Irish and Italian liquor in my system that I’d be considered mixed. From there we can delve a bit deeper. Cosmopolitans, margaritas and sidecars are all in the same family. Their base spirits (vodka, tequila and cognac) are combined with orange-based liqueur (usually Cointreau or Grand Marnier) and tart fruit juice. That’s usually citrus, but as in the case of the cosmo, it can be cranberry. At the risk of sounding like an even more deranged Willie Wonka, there are flips, juleps, daisies, coolers and more in this world of pure liquid imagination. You might remember from a previous column that any drink can be a punch (shout out) if it contains liquor, citrus, spice, sugar and water. Or you can stay in the no stress category of booze and juice cocktails. A greyhound is just gin and grapefruit juice, while adding a salt rim makes it a salty dog. Cape Codders are just vodka, cranberry and lime. Heat them and the combination of spirit, sweetener (usually honey), citrus and hot water is called a toddy. This leads to the simple favorite that I’ve been drinking all month – the mixture of orange juice and vodka referred to as the screwdriver. They were invented by American oil workers in the Persian Gulf, and named for the tools they used to stir them. I can imagine the guys from the epic 1998 Michael Bay blockbuster disaster film starring my doppelganger drinking many out on the oil rig. The point is that cocktails are versatile, and understanding how to order them gets you the exact beverage you want. So, take a traditional screwdriver and throw in some

sloe gin (which is gin steeped in sloe berries and needs to be a hit out here in China) and it becomes a sloe comfortable screw. Or keep the vodka, add Galliano float and we have the disco-era classic Harvey Wallbanger. So, what’s with all the names? I think a lot has to do with being creative in a loud bar setting that needs to set itself apart. Doesn’t a name like a screwdriver evoke more of an image to you than just vodka with orange juice? We all have our reasons for going to a bar: sometimes it’s for friendship or love; to celebrate or to mourn; and maybe also for a bit of escapism. Fancy names make the experience seem more special than saying, “Hey barman, I’ll have some distilled potato water and ginger ale,” when you want a Moscow Mule. So, learn the lingo and take a liquid flight of fancy while singing along to Phil Collins with friends and strangers in the darkness of this city that you love.

Logan’s Screwdriver √ 2 shots of Jameson whiskey √ 2 shots of Fernet √ 2 shots of vodka

√ 1 bottle of orange juice

Take a highball (or Collins) glass and fill it with ice. Then add the vodka, before topping with juice. Remember: you always go booze first in a cocktail. Drink the other shots, then enjoy your screwdriver.

Logan R. Brouse, proprietor and mixologist of Logan’s Punch and Tacolicious, has run bars and clubs in Shanghai for over eight years. In between hangovers, he puts pen to paper to record his pontifications on the drink industry.

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See the QR codes on these pages? Scan them to buy tickets to these upcoming events.

EVENTS Maybe Mars 12 Year Anniversary

The Kooks

HEAR

Mum

Icelandic electronic group Múm are returning to China this November, hot on the heels of the release of the 20th anniversary edition of their seminal, and highly influential, album Yesterday Was Dramatic – Today Is OK. Nov 23, 8pm; RMB260 presale. Mao Livehouse, 3F, 308 Chongqing Nan Lu, by Jianguo Zhong Lu 重庆南路308号3楼, 近建国中路

Formed in Brighton in 2004, the rockers first stole hearts with their debut album Inside In/Inside Out in 2006, which included darling tracks like ‘Naïve’ and ‘She Moves in Her Own Way.’ The pop record would come to define the feel-good sound of The Kooks, and was accompanied by such buzz (it went quadruple platinum in the UK) that the band went on to record a live acoustic version at Abbey Road Studios (you know the one) just a year later. Nov 15, 8.30pm; RMB320 presale, RMB400 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010)

Celebrating 12 years of releasing some of the best Chinese underground and indie rock music, one of our favorite labels is bringing together Jumping Goat (who released new album Walking On The Ice in October), Muzzy Mum and Rejian Bei Shashou for an evening of delightfully dirty music. Nov 2, 8.30pm; RMB120 presale, RMB150 door. Yuyintang, 851 Kaixuan Lu, by Yan’an Xi Lu 凯旋路851号,近延安西路口 (5237 8662)

The Drums Tokyo Shoegazer

Martin Garrix

Who doesn’t love a bit of debauched EDM? Martin Garrix, one of the bestknown DJs in the world takes to the stage at Space Plus for a dance music extravaganza. Catch the Dutch DJ spin tunes like ‘Animals’ and ‘Scared to be Lonely.’ Nov 9, 11pm; RMB480 presale, RMB680 door. Space Plus, 1833 Binjiang Da Dao near Pudong Nan Lu 滨江大道1833号，近浦东南路 (6555 5558)

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Deemed the next big thing after the release of their debut self-titled album, which saw them sounding like jangle pop New Order acolytes, and which included standout tracks like ‘Let’s Go Surfing’ and ‘Forever and Ever,’ reception cooled on The Drums with their later albums, as they became less hook-driven and exploratory. Jonathan Pierce and his band arrive in China with album number five, Brutalism, in the bag. Nov 14, 8.30pm; RMB300 presale, RMB350 door. Mao Livehouse, 3F, 308 Chongqing Nan Lu, by Jianguo Zhong Lu 重庆南路308号3楼, 近建国中路

Legendary Japanese shoegaze rock band Tokyo Shoegazer are joined by one of the best young bands in China today, Default. Tokyo Shoegazer went on a seemingly endless hiatus for five years before announcing their return at the beginning of this year, much to the delight of their fans in China and around the world. Dec 1, 7.30pm; RMB180 presale, RMB200 door. Yuyintang Park, 1398 Yuyuan Lu, by Changning Lu 愚园路 1398号, 近长宁路 (5237 8662)

Yogee New Waves

New Noise 10 Year Anniversary

HEAR

Swim Deep

Japanese band Yogee New Waves are one of the foremost Japanese bands keeping city pop alive. They head to China for a number of shows, plus appearances at Modern Sky’s Strawberry Festival, on the back of their March release, album BLUEHARLEM. Nov 22, 8.30pm; RMB200 presale, RMB280 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010) Birmingham (the English one) band Swim Deep combine a variety of influences that dip into genres like dream pop, shoegaze and indie rock to create songs that are hard to pin down, but easy to listen to. Their third album, Emerald Classic, dropped in October sees the band sounding as good as they ever have, according to NME. Nov 27, RMB240 presale, RMB300 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010)

Celebrating 10 years of awesome shows in China, New Noise have a big November planned. Besides bringing awesome bands like Mum and Deafhaven on tour, New Noise bring together Blue Foundation, Mum and Dalian post rocker Wang Wen for a show in Shanghai this month. Nov 23, 8pm; RMB260 presale. Mao Livehouse, 3F, 308 Chongqing Nan Lu, by Jianguo Zhong Lu 重庆南路308号3楼, 近建国中路

Allie X

Rye Music Festival Gang of Four

After canceling their tour dates in China after sole-remaining member from the release of their seminal punk album, Entertainment, Andy Gill injured himself at a show in Brooklyn, these iconic rockers are finally making their way to China. Nov 23, 8.30pm; RMB280 presale, RMB330 door. Modern Sky Lab, 3/F, 188 Ruihong Lu, by Tianhong Lu 瑞虹路188号 3楼, 近天虹路 (6580 6010)

After founding in 2018 in Beijing, Rye Music Festival is expanding to take in new horizons. The first ever Shanghai-based Rye Music Festival takes place at the beginning of November, with a host of fantastic Chinese bands on the line-up, including The Big Band contestants Click #15, Hedgehog and Miserable Faith, as well as one of our favorite Taiwan singers (who is yet to be announced). Snag your tickets now while you still can. Nov 2-3, 12.30pm; RMB320-450. Shanghai International Music Vil-lage, 188, Lane 399 Shendi Dong Lu 迪斯尼申迪东路399弄188号, 近沪芦高速

Canadian singer and songwriter Allie X is slated to perform in China for the first time ever in December. The indie pop icon got her start in Toronto in 2006, but her career really began to take off after she moved to LA in 2013. Since then, she’s released her debut single “Catch,” which rose to number 55 on the Canadian Hot 100 and was highly praised by Katy Perry on Twitter as her “spring jam.” Her acclaimed EP CollXtion I was released in 2015, followed by two studio albums: CollXtion II: Unsolved (2017) and Super Sunset (Analog) (2018). Allie X has also collaborated with artists such as Troye Sivan and Lea Michele. The songwriter co-wrote Sivan’s “Youth,” Blue Neighborhood and LP Bloom. In addition to her amazing vocals and songs, Allie X is known for her highly fashionable outfits and dramatic live shows. You can check out her Shanghai performance on December 1 at VasLive. This is one concert that should not be missed. Dec 1, 8pm; RMB280. VasLive, 3/F, 19 Wanhangdu Hou Lu, by Changshou Lu 万航渡后路19号沪西文化艺术中心3楼, 近长寿路 (182 2139 1480) WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 65

Art021

SAMAJAM Kids Show 2

Hooked’s Melbourne Cup Seafood Luncheon

It’s time to pick out your hats, ladies, as Tuesday November 5 sees Australia’s most prestigious annual thoroughbred horse race, the Melbourne Cup. In honor of the thunder of hooves on turf, Hooked is hosting a Melbourne Cup Seafood Luncheon, with RMB350 securing you a three-course meal, with free-flow Prosecco, Aperol Spritz, wine, beer and gin and tonics. Get a table of six together and you can book for just RMB1,500. The big race will of course be shown on the big screen. Oh, and there will be sweepstakes and prizes for best dressed. Nov 5, 11am-3pm, RMB350 per person or RMB1,500 for a table of six. Hooked, B/1, Found 158, 158 Julu Lu, by Ruijin Yi Lu 巨鹿路 158号B1层, 近瑞金一路 (6333 2198)

Art fair season is returning to Shanghai and it’s time to get hyped. You can now grab early bird tickets to Art021 at a reduced price of RMB100 until November 8, after which tickets will cost RMB150. Taking place at Shanghai Exhibition Center over the course of four days, from November 7-10, Art021 brings together 110 galleries from 18 countries and 57 cities. Seventy percent of the galleries that will take part in the fair have galleries in China or other regions of Asia, making Art021 a vitally important arena in which galleries reach out to new audiences. Fans of contemporary art can enjoy sections like Detour, Beyond and Approach, with each of these sections allowing something a little bit different. Detour investigates EuroAmerican geographic networks and narratives. Beyond allows for larger art works by placing them outside of the fair. Approach gives a platform for young, interesting and upcoming galleries. Nov 7-10 (Nov 7/8 are invitation only), 11am-6pm; RMB100. Shanghai Exhibition Center, 1,000 Yan’an Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Lu 延安中路 1000号, 近陕西路 (2216 2216)

China’s most popular musical kids show is headed back to Shanghai. At Samajam: Kids Show 2 (Djembe), everyone in the audience receives a SAMAJAM Music Bag which contains drumsticks, tambourines, a musical tube and an African djembe. Throughout the show, kids and the entire family learn and play with the instruments, as they are led by SAMAJAM performers on stage. Nov 8 at 7:30pm, Nov 9-10 at 10.30am & 3.30pm. RMB180-700. ET Space, 433 Yan’an Dong Lu, by Yunnan Nan Lu 延安东路433号, 近云南南路 (6375 5666)

Der Elefantenpups - Ein Tierischer Geheimplan

China Shanghai International Children’s Book Fair

West Bund Art & Design

Coinciding with the long-awaited opening of West Bund Museum and equipped with a brand-new logo, the sixth edition of West Bund Art & Design welcomes 98 galleries from 18 different countries, including 28 galleries who will take part for the first time. Nov 7-10, check the event schedule for individual times; West Bund Art & Design Center, 2555 Long Teng Avenue, Xuhui District 龙腾大道2555号, 近龙耀路

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Calling all bookworms! The seventh China Shanghai International Children’s Book Fair (CCBF) is headed back to town. The event will take place in Shanghai from November 15-17. CCBF is not only a leading copyright exchange hub for children’s books (ages 0 to 16 years), but it’s the perfect outlet to inspire school teachers, parents, children, book lovers, collectors, illustrators and translators. This year, more than 60,000 new books from 70 countries and regions will be presented as part of a worldwide celebration of children’s reading. Not only can visitors buy a variety of original books but CCBF will offer 200 activities and events during the three-day event. Nov 15-16, 9am-5pm and Nov 17, 9am-4pm; RMB20-75. Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Centre, 1099 Guozhan Lu, by Zhoujiadu Lu 国展路1099号, 周家渡路 (2022 5186)

If you’re looking for a fun, interactive and kid-friendly event, you’re in luck! The music-filled Der Elefantenpups - Ein Tierischer Geheimplan will be held at Shanghai City Theatre on November 15-16. This time around, a new animal joins the zoo: a young female panda named Mei Yue. Being in a new place means she’s suffering from homesickness and would do anything to be able to return home to China. The zoo animals work together and hatch a secret plan to cheer up Mei Yue. They make music for her with their instruments. In the end, the panda cub is able to happily settle into her new home with her new friends. Throughout the journey, kids can learn about various musical instruments and their unique timbres through a fun and sweet story. Your little ones are sure to love it! Nov 15 at 7.30pm & Nov 16 at 10.30am, ; RMB120-380. Shanghai City Theatre, 4889 Dushi Lu, by Mingdu Lu 都市路 4889号, 近名都路 (5415 9123)

LOOKING AHEAD Luke Thompson

Beatrich

Thompson, a songwriter and self-managed artist, first rose to fame in late 2005 with his debut single ‘Morning Light,’ which spent 11 weeks on the NZ Radio top 40 charts. His first full-length album, 2007’s Here On The Ground, was a huge success, with songs like ‘Perfect Drive,’ ‘Bleed’ and ‘Morning Light’ winning over audiences for their intimate acoustic sound. Thompson went on to release more solo works, including The Water EP in 2011, To The Common Dark in 2012, Strum Strum EP in 2015, Hosts in 2016 and Other Lost Songs in 2018. Fans have come to enjoy Thompson’s gentle songs that are stripped bare and self-sufficient, the sound of a songwriter with only himself for company. Dec 8, 8pm; RMB180. VasLive, 3/F, 19 Wanhangdu Hou Lu, by Changshou Lu 万航渡后路19号沪西文化艺术中心3楼, 近长寿路 (182 2139 1480)

Beatrich, who taught herself how to play the piano as a child, rose to global stardom after the release of her 2017 smash hit single ‘Superstar.’ According to Clash magazine, the 21 year old is riding high on the back of over 1 billion streams of her music in China. This is her second tour through China this year, after she arrived in the Middle Kingdom in May. Her most recent single, ‘Runaway’ was released in early 2019 and has already racked up close to 2 million views. Dec 6, 8pm; RMB380. Bandai Namco, 179 Yichang Lu, by Jiangning Lu 宜昌路179号, 近江宁路 (6266 3191)

The Blue Man Group

Come From Away

The classic performance trio the Blue Man Group is headed to Shanghai this year. Expect to laugh, rock out and have a blast at the fun-filled show for all ages as the Blue Man Group showcases their comedic, musical and artistic talents. Join over 35 million fans who have attended Blue Man Group performances, on a trip led by the boldest, baldest and bluest guys on the planet. Although shows will be on from December 23-January 5, tickets sell out fast so we suggest snagging some while you still can! Dec 26-Jan 5, RMB80-1,080. 1862 Theatre, 1777 Binjiang Dadao, 1862 时尚艺术中心, 滨江大道1777号

The longest-running Canadian musical in Broadway history, Come From Away, is coming to Shanghai. The show, which was a critical and box office success during its run on Broadway, tells the story of what happened when 38 interna-tional airplanes and more than 7,000 passengers were forced to land in Gander in Newfoundland after the September 11 attacks in 2001. Produced by ACOrange, Junkyard Dog Productions and Rodney Rigby, the musical’s stop in China, from May 8-24 in 2020, will be its first production in a nonEnglish speaking country. May 8-24, 7.30pm; RMB200-1,000. SAIC Shanghai Culture Square, 597 Fuxing Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu 复兴中路597号, 近陕西南路 (5461 9961)

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PICK OF SIX

A Turning Moment – Urban Narratives in Chinese Contemporary Art 1995-2019

Until Dec 15 Shanghai Duolun Museum Of Modern Art, 27 Duolun Lu, by Sichuan Bei Lu 多伦路27号, 近四川北路 (6587 2530)

High-Speed Forms – Zhang Ding

Until Mar 8 OCAT Shanghai, Sunken Gardens, Bldg. 9 Qufu Lu, Jing’an District 静安区曲阜路9弄下沉庭院 (6608 5119)

SIX

PICK OF EXHIBITIONS ART

Bob Dylan Retrospectrum

Until Jan 5 Shanghai Modern Art Museum, 4777 Binjiang Da Dao, by Pudian Lu 滨江大道 4777号, 近浦电路 (thMart.com.cn)

Just What Is It That Makes Today’s Computers So Intriguing, So Nonsensical? – Group Exhibition

Until Dec 26 Chronus Art Center, Bldg 18, 50 Moganshan Lu, by Aomen Lu 莫干山路 50号18号楼, 近澳门路 (5271 5789)

The Annual Report of OCD – Zhang Peili

Until Oct 31 Ren Space, No.10, 133 Shangwen Lu, by Henan Nan Lu 尚文路133弄10号, 近河南南路 (6346 2033)

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Rear Windows – Li Qing Until Jan 19 Prada Rong Zhai, 186 Shaanxi Bei Lu, by Nanjing Xi Lu 陕西北路186号, 近南京西路 (2218 0200)

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA

Brief History of the People’s Republic of China gives a concise, albeit full, account of the glorious history, great achievements and valuable experience of the People’s Republic of China over the past 70 years. Rich with illustrations, the book mirrors the struggles and practices of the Communist Party of China and the Chinese people over these seven decades since the founding of the PRC, and provides explanations for the internal logic involved in the great historic changes during this period. This is a book that will help the international community understand the advantages of the path, theory, system and culture of socialism with Chinese characteristics behind the historic achievements since 1949.

CITY SCENES

Hilton has debuted the campaign ‘Expect Better, Expect Hilton’ in China. Chinese consumers nowadays expect to solve most of their living demands on mobile devices and get digital support across various life scenarios. The campaign encourages Chinese consumers to gain lightning-fast services, great value and a positive experience when booking through Hilton’s official digital channels, including the Chinese Hilton Honors iOS and Android Apps, WeChat Mini Program and website.

Shanghai IFC malls have more than 260 world-class top brands, which are called ‘luxury brand halls.’ The opening of new flagship stores, such as Saint Laurent, signifies the largest number of high-end brands in shopping malls in China.

The Loch Lomond Group, an independent distiller and blender of some of the finest and rarest Scotch whiskies in the world, announced the official establishment of its China operations. Loch Lomond China, headquartered in Shanghai, aims to expand the brand’s presence and product distribution in the rapidly-growing whisky markets of China and Asia. 70 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

IAPM shopping mall staged a ‘Glowing Style’ fashion festival, allowing customers to view fashion trends of from the world’s four major fashion weeks, a glimpse of the 2019 autumn and winter fashion trends and the brand’s new release. IAPM mall also specially created the “Phantom and Nishang” art installations, creating a dazzling fashion show through the changing lights and stage mirror reflections.

Tiffany & Co., a world-famous jewelry and watch brand, held an opening party for a new exhibition at the Shanghai Fosun Art Center. The exhibition, which is broken into six chapters, such as Blue Is the Color of Dreams, The World of Tiffany, The Tiffany Blue Book, Tiffany Love, Breakfast at Tiffany’s and Diamonds: Miracles of Nature, showed off over 350 precious pieces of Tiffany.

A VIP experience activity for the Vichy 89 tough skin tour was recently held in Shanghai. At the event site, senior leaders of the brand’s asiapacific region led media in experiencing the flying skincare journey brought by Vichy 89 series.

Le Ville Residence Shanghai Jing ‘an service apartment, a boutique serviced apartment product of Yango Group officially opened in October. The project is the second landing project of Le Ville Residence in Shanghai and another milestone for Yango Group in expanding its business territory in Shanghai.

Durapower Holdings Pte Ltd, a Singapore home-grown lithium battery company with an international presence, unveils the new factory of its subsidiary - Suzhou Durapower Technology Ltd - with a grand opening ceremony at Changshu, which featured member of Parliament of the Republic of Singapore and chairman of Business China, Mr. Lee Yi Shyan on the left and Deputy Mayor of Changshu, Deputy Secretary of the Party Working Committee and Deputy Director of the Management Committee of Changshu Economic and Technological Development Zone, Mr. Shi Hong Liang on the right.

In September, Shanghai Jiuting Gemdale Plaza held its grand opening. Two-day foot traffic exceeded 300,000, and two-day turnover reached RMB14.2 million. 212 brands, thematic all-day activities and the G+ Family membership system appeared as scheduled.

BANYAN TREE Hotels & Resorts opened its ‘Pink & Wellness’ activity in October. The hotel joined hands with international brands such as Lady M, BYMB, Maia Active and Sugarmat at the 270-degree infinity river view terrace, TOPS.

Royal Caribbean International announced the homeport and name of its fifth Oasis Class ship. The next ship to join the leading cruise line’s innovative lineup will be named Wonder of the Seas and set sail from Shanghai – its year-round home. The details were revealed by Royal Caribbean President and CEO Michael Bayley at a global cruise industry conference event held in Shanghai.

Sunac Xindi Residence- Shanghai Xiangyi, a high-end service residence brand created by SUNAC Gem Commercial Management Co., celebrated its first anniversary in September. Sunac Xindi Residence- Shanghai Xiangyi located at Guangxin area, takes cues from the pursuit of an aspirational living experience and sensory enjoyment. WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 71

HOTEL NEWS DoubleTree by Hilton Yangzhou Holds Grand Opening Ceremony The event consisted of an official opening ceremony, followed by a gala lunch reception. 200 honorable guests were invited for the opening, including Hilton senior management, local media and a number of invited guests. Highlights of the event included a ribbon cutting ceremony, a lion dance and a cocktail reception with local culture and delicacies based around a Dongguan Lu theme. Located in the administrative center of Hanjiang district, DoubleTree by Hilton Yangzhou is just 6.5 kilometers away from downtown Yangzhou and the closest railway station. The hotel is an ideal choice whether you are travelling for business or leisure.

New General Manager at Hyatt Regency Shanghai Global Harbor Ms. Amane Karazawa has appointed as the new General Manager of Hyatt Regency Shanghai Global Harbor. A dedicated hotelier, she brings a wealth of experience and industry expertise along with an excellent understanding of sales and marketing, and professional knowledge of the operational and management requirements of Hyatt and the region, and will lead the team to a new level of excellence. “I am thrilled to start a new journey at Hyatt Regency Shanghai Global Harbor, a destination full of happiness and novelty,” said Ms. Karazawa.

Artyzen Habitat Launch New Brand, ‘Ji’ Concept Artyzen Habitat officially unveiled its creative concept ‘Jí’ with an innovative and unique launch event at their Artyzen Habitat Hongqiao Shanghai property at the end of September. Connecting a series of mysterious clues, the launch event included a live show that brought together three elements – a post-‘90s photographer, ageless models and Shanghai local hand spun Tubu (blue cloth) fabric, alongside a special sensory experience pop-up gallery, and a collection of activations that connected travellers to the local community.

InterContinental Hotels Team Up For InterContinental Concierge Day Six InterContinental hotels joined together to celebrate ‘InterContinental Concierge Day’. ‘Explore the Spirit of Craftsmanship’ was the mission of the day for the InterContinental concierge team, as participants discovered the beauty of traditional Shanghai culture through a variety of fun and exciting activities.

Exciting Vertical Run at Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai turned held a unique charity event in the form of a vertical charity run in October. Around 500 runners conquered 1,557 steps to reach the finishing line on the 60th floor. The event raised a total of RMB149,830 for Children’s Medical Centre to help underprivileged children.

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LISTINGS

LISTINGS Scan for complete listings

Want to see all restaurants, hotels and more in Shanghai? Check out www.thatsmags.com or download our app by scanning the QR code.

RESTAURANTS AMERICAN

AE KITCHEN NOT JUST BRUNCH. One of the most popular brunch places in town! 1) 491 Yuyuan Lu, by Zhenning Lu (6241 3233) 2) 457 Jumen Lu, by Runan Jie (3159 5833) 1) 愚园路 491

ingredients for the boiler in order to extract the primary flavors nature has to offer. 1) 7/F, Takashimaya Department Store, 1438 Hongqiao Lu, by Manao Lu (6295 2117) 2) (NEW) 4/F, Reel Department Store, 1601 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Changde Lu (6258 8777) Daily 10.30am-11pm 1) 虹桥路 1438 号高岛屋百货 7 楼 , 近玛瑙路 2) 南京西路 1601 号芮欧百货 4 楼 , 近常德路

CANTONESE

号 , 近镇宁路 2) 局门路 457 号 , 近汝南街

Tacolicious Delicious tacos (obviously) with bar focusing on tequila and margaritas. This redbricked two-story restaurant is modern Mexican (fusion) marvel, serving tacos of the doubledecker variety. One of the few spots in the neighborhood with an outdoor rooftop patio, Tacolicious is intimate and trimmed with fairylight filled tequila bottles. Tues-Sun, 12pm-11pm. 1 Yueyang Lu, by Dongping Lu, 岳阳路 1 号 , 近东平路 (13764060741)

Element Fresh Delivery to the rescue! Bored of Breakfast? Lost for Lunch? Dinner dilemmas? Give the English -speaking delivery hotline a buzz and order from a wide variety of wholesome gourmet salads, fresh fruit juices, amazing appetizers, scrumptious lunch or dinner entrees, and American style breakfasts. Instant confirmation, pay by mobile pay or credit card, or even cash-on delivery. Scan the QR code & select ‘Order Now’, or visit www.ElementFresh.com & select ‘Delivery’. Element Fresh has 16 restaurants across Shanghai! POP This all-day dining American Brasserie at Three on the Bund pays tribute to the 1970s American pop culture with vintage decor featuring chandeliers along with wood, leather and stone elements that create a warm atmosphere. Influenced by the chic vibe of Miami, the new POP bar offers a range of light and fruity drinks, completed with a lively music selection. MonSun 11am-11pm. 7/F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu pop@on-the-bund.com. www. threeonthebund.com. 中山东一路 3 号 7 楼 , 近广东路 . (6321 0909)

Canton Disco This traditional Cantonese restaurant concept with a contemporary update at its fore offers a high energy atmosphere, addictive cuisine and unpretentious service that paints a perfect picture of modern Shanghai. 2F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9521) 5.30-10.30pm. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 2 楼 , 近江西中路

Ming Court With chefsí adept in culinary creativity, Ming Court presents exquisite Cantonese cuisine with a twist, offering authentic flavors and refined wine pairings to create a wonderful culinary experience. On top of dim sum and dessert menus, the restaurant also offer a la carte and set menus as well as some seasonal specialities. The wide selection of dishes also include some award-winning Ming Court signatures. Level B1, 333 Shenhong Lu, Cordis, Shanghai, Hongqiao, by Suhong Lu (5263 9618) Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am – 2.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am – 3pm; Dinner: Mon-Sun 5.30-10pm 申虹

F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近百步街 (3867 9199)

VUE Dining This restaurant is designed to create marvelous dining experience in privacy with one of the city’s best skyline views. Featuring authentic handmade dim sum and Cantonese cuisine, it is an ideal venue for family celebrations and friends’ gatherings. 31/F, West Tower, Hyatt on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Lu, by Wuchang Lu (63931234-6330) Lunch: Mon-Fri 11.30am2.30pm; Sat&Sun: 11.30am-3.30pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30pm-10.30pm www.hyattonthebund. com 黄浦路 199 号 , 上海外滩茂悦大酒店西楼 31 层 , 近武昌路

路 1 号 , 上海中星铂尔曼大酒店 2 楼 , 近柳州路

HUAIYANG RESTAURANT RIVER DRUNK specializes in grand Huaiyang cuisine and fresh seafood, offering traditional southeastern delicacies in a charming and refined environment. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 5/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路

SICHUAN

HOT-POT Qimin Organic Hotpot Marketplace Qimin, the restaurant originated from Taiwan and created by the same people who brought us “GREEN & SAFE.” The bustling marketplace environment is filled with organic groceries, fresh seafood,a variety of vegetables, assorted meats, open kitchen food stands and diners surrounded by lively marketplace food stands, creating a real food bazaar atmosphere. Every item on the menu is carefully selected from the original source, making sure all ingredients are completely natural or organic. Without exception, all dishes are from “Farm to Table” using the most natural

二层 , 近枫泾路 200010

SHANGHAINESE

Summer Palace Combining South-Eastern Chinese cuisine with Cantonese flair, the Summer Palace enhances gastronomical sensations with a poetic visual dreamscape. Open hour: Breakfast from 7am to 10am; Lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm(Mon – Fri)\10am to 2.30pm(Sat & Sun);Dinner from 5.30pm to 10pm. (86 21) 2203 8889 3/F, Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai, 1218 Yan’an Zhong, by Tongren Lu. 静安香格里拉

海金茂君悦大酒店 86 楼 , 浦东新区世纪大道 88 号 , 近银城中路

大酒店三楼，延安中路 1218 号，近铜仁路 .

Suntime Century Relax in our lavish private rooms and allow our food to delight your senses with wonderful tastes, textures and aroma. Offering authentic cuisine from the Canton, Hunan and Shanghai regions, guests can embark on an exploration of Chinese culinary excellence. Lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5.30-10pm. 2/

Si Fang San Chuan Showcasing the art of Southwestern Chinese cuisine with a touch of modern understanding and creative presentation, this Bund-side restaurant offers flavors that are adjusted to suit the local palate. Meanwhile, a bar inspired by Shanghainese cultural heritage is also another highlight of the concept. Lunch 11am3pm, Dinner 5-10pm. (6033 5833). L2, N3 Bldg, North, Bund Finance Center, 600 Zhongshan 2nd Road(E), Huangpu District, Shanghai, China 200010 中山东二路 600 号外滩金融中心北区 N3 栋

Club Jin Mao With superlative views overlooking the Shanghai skyline, Club Jin Mao is one of the most prestigious Shanghainese restaurants in the city, offering exquisite and authentic Shanghainese cuisine. Daily from 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.3010.30pm. 86/F, Grand Hyatt Shanghai, Jin Mao Tower, 88 Shiji Dadao, by Yincheng Zhong Lu (5047 8838) www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com 上

陆家嘴环路

CHINESE

1235). Sun-Thu 11am-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 11am10.30pm. 武康路 378 号 2 楼 , 近兴国路

YUE Chinese Restaurant is presenting an exciting blend of local & traditional Cantonese dishes served in a modern atmosphere boasting nine private dining rooms. 2/F, Pullman Shanghai South, 1 Pubei Lu, by Liuzhou Lu (2426 8888) Lunch 11.30am - 2pm; Dinner 5.30– 9.30pm 浦北

路 333 号 B1 层，虹桥康得思酒店，近苏虹路

Shàng-Xí This elegant Chinese restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong showcases the very best of Cantonese cuisine, and has earned its reputation as one of the top-rated restaurant on the Chinese mainland by Forbes Travel Guide for five years. Lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5.30-10pm. (2036 1310). 2/F, Four Seasons Hotel Pudong, Shanghai, 210 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu. 世纪大道 210 号上海浦东四季酒店二楼 , 近

main dining room, where guests can enjoy signature cocktails created by a mixologist from Milan. 2/F, 378 Wukang Lu, by Xingguo Lu (5404

Sichuan Citizen Originally opened in 2009, Sichuan Citizen moved into its new home at Ferguson Lane in 2018, where Head Chef Mao and his whole crew from Chengdu continues to serve spicy and delicious classic Sichuan dishes to their fans. The restaurant also houses a cocktail bar named Bar Basil located right next to the

Gui Hua Lou Gui Hua Lou offers the very best of authentic Huaiyang cuisines. Chef Gao creates an entrancing blend of two worlds, traditional dishes with modern interpretations all in the ambiance of distinctive Chinese décor. 1/F River Wing, Pudong Shangri-La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by Lujiazui Huan Lu (2828 6888). Open daily, 11.30am3pm (lunch), 5.30-10pm (dinner). fbreservation. slpu@shangri-la.com, www.shangri-la.com/ shanghai/pudongshangrila. 富城路 33 号，近陆家嘴环路

The Crystal Garden Bathed in natural light, the Chinese restaurant Crystal Garden offers the

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LISTINGS

very best of authentic Chinese cuisine including provincial cuisines plus high-quality seafood. The restaurant's garden-style setting and professional, friendly team makes The Crystal Garden a popular venue for intimate wedding banquets and private functions. 5/F, The Westin Bund Center Shanghai, 88 Henan Zhong Lu, by Guangdong Lu (6103 5048) Lunch: 11am – 2.30pm (Mon-Fri), 11am – 2.30pm (Saturday & Sunday, Yum Cha); Dinner: 5.30pm – 10pm (Daily). 河南中路 88 号上海威斯汀

city’super 超 • 生活店内 2) 美罗城店 – 肇嘉浜路 1111 号地下一层 3) 梅龙镇伊势丹店 – 南京西路 1038 号地下一层 4) 大上海时代广场店 – 淮海中路 99 号地下一层 city’super 超 • 生活店内 5) 环贸广场店 - 淮海中路 99 号地下一层 city’super 超 • 生活店内 6) 兴业太古汇店 - 南京西路 789 号兴业太古汇地下二层 city’super 超 • 生活店内

DELI SHOPS

大饭店 5 楼，近广东路

Green & Safe With an organic farm in Kunshan, this organic store provides daily delivered vegetables and a variety of local and imported organic goods, such as organic extra virgin olive oil, white and red balsamic vinegar, organic pasta, muesli and more. 30% off on all breads after 7pm everyday in Dongping branch. 1) 6 Dongping Lu, by Hengshan Lu 5465 1288, 1/ F: 8am-10pm; 2/F: 6pm-12am 2) 2) 4/F, 1438 Hongqiao Lu, by Hongbaoshi Lu 10am–9.30pm 1) 东平路 6 号 , 近衡山路 2) 虹桥路 1438 号 4 楼 , 近红宝石路

The Chinoise Story A unique restaurant

featuring radically fused cooking styles. Lovely space. Expect classic Chinese dishes served in individual portions rather than family style. Cathay Building, Jin Jiang Hotel, 59 Maoming Nan Lu, by Changle Lu (6445 1717) 11am2.30pm; 6-10.30pm 茂名南路 59 号锦江饭店北楼底

层 , 近长乐路

CAFES Beans & Grapes Casual and modern, Beans & Grapes focuses on wholesome comfort meals and refreshments. It’s a great option for a healthy grab-and-go lunch or dinner. The Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路 CHA Lounge CHA Lounge is the place for a welldeserved afternoon break. An extensive selection of traditional Chinese and Western tea and delicacies, delicious beverages and international wines, as well as pastries, homemade chocolates and macaroons are offered daily. Guests can also treat themselves to an exquisite afternoon tea buffet at RMB108 per person which is offered daily. Open daily, 8am-8pm. Afternoon tea buffet, 2.30-5.30pm. 1/F, 1555 Dingxi Lu, by Yuyuan Lu (6240 8888-8155) 定西路 1555 号巴黎春天新世界酒店 1 楼 , 近愚园路

Coffee Tree With a light and airy European look, the cozy spot offers an array of fresh and homemade items including salads, sandwiches, quiche, pasta, and cakes using the finest ingredients. Ferguson Lane, 376 Wukang Lu, by Tai’an Lu (6466 0361) Mon-Sun 9am10pm www.coffeetreecafe.com.cn 武康路 376 号 , 近泰安路

CHOCOLATE Jean Paul Hévin is a French “Haute Couture” chocolate-maker, whose label of chocolates is a successful brand of gourmet chocolate. The adventure of Jean Paul Hévin begins in the tropics with the search for the rarest, most refined cocoa beans. It continues back in France with a search for the best creams and hazelnuts, the most scented honeys and other outstanding ingredient. Jean Paul Hévin stores are created as chocolate cellars, confined spaces in which, at constant levels of humidity and temperature, customers could be captivated by the subtle cocoa aromas and choose their purchases in a calm and peaceful atmosphere. LG2 city’super, HKRI Taikoo Hui, 789 West Nanjing Lu, by Ruijin Er Lu (400-653-8820, www.citysuper.com.cn) 南京西路 789 号兴业太古汇地下二层 city’super 超 • 生活店内

ROYCE’ From the great land of Hokkaido, blessed by nature, came ROYCE’ chocolates in 1983. Hokkaido is gifted with crystal clear water and pure fresh air. This nature environment is much like the famous European Chocolate producing countries. It is here in Hokkaido that the finest, strictly selected ingredients are combined to make perfect chocolates. Each and every bite will bring your senses to Hokkaido. 1) ifc Store - LG2 city’super, 8 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu 2) Shanghai Metro City Store B1, 1111 Zhaojiabang Lu, by Hongqiao Lu 3) Jiu Guang, B/F, 1618 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Huashan Lu 4) Shanghai Times Square Store - B1 city’super, 99 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Xizang Nan Lu 5) Shanghai iapm Store - LG1 , 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu 6) HKRI Taikoo Hui Store - LG2 city’super, 789 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Yan’an Zhong Lu (400-653-8820, www.citysuper.com. cn) 1) 国金中心店 – 陆家嘴世纪大道 8 号地下二层 74 | NOVEMBER 2019 | WWW.THATSMAGS.COM

Kempi Deli Freshly baked homely bites including freshly baked bread, muffins, cakes, chocolates, pastries, ice-creams, sandwiches, cold cuts and cheese will make a visit to Kempi Deli something to look forward to any day. You won’t know where to start! 50% off on all breads after 18:00 daily. (3867 8888) Hours: 7.30am-7pm. 2/F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近百步街

FINE DINING 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana An extension of the three Michelin Star venue (by the same name) in Hong Kong, a fantastic fine dining fare that will leave you both comforted and breathless. 6-7/F, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu, by Beijing Dong Lu (6087 2890) 圆明园路 169 号 6-7 楼 , 近北京东路 Canton Table With nostalgic ambiance inspired by shikumen lanehouses and glamorous buildings along the Bund, this new Cantonese dining concept at Three on the Bund dances between the old and the new, bringing Shanghai diners the essence of the culinary culture of Guangdong. Whether you’re craving some home-style cooking or sophisticated delicacies, Canton Table offers an extensive selections, featuring high quality fresh ingredients and traditional cooking skills. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm, SatSun 11.30am-3pm, 5.30-10.30pm. cantontable@ on-the-bund.com. www.threeonthebund.com.5/ F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu 中山东一路 3 号 5 楼 , 近广东路 . (6321 3737)

Cathay Room & 9 Level Terrace With intimate seating and expansive views of the Bund, the Cathay Room and Terrace offers a sociable dining experience with elegantly presented European contemporary style cuisine. Let your senses be tantalized by the delicate flavors prepared by our culinary team, revealing a European ‘haute cuisine’ approach to fine dining; complete with organic items and ecologically responsible producers. Featuring an extensive wine list and beverage selection, the Cathay Room and Terrace is an oasis away from the hustle and bustle of Shanghai… 9/F, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 Nanjing Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road (6138 6881) Daily 12:00-22:00 南京东路 20 号，上海和平饭店 9 楼，近中山东一路

Dragon Phoenix Restored to its former glory, the Dragon Phoenix evokes memories from a distant time. Quintessential Cantonese and Shanghainese cuisine takes center stage with refined yet daringly classical presentations of the finest live seafood, barbeque roasted meats and seasonal produce. Our resident Chinese Master Chef’s signature dishes showcase some of China’s most sought-after authentic dishes including hand crafted dim sum, seafood delicacies and noodle dishes. 8/F, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 Nanjing Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road (6138 6880) Daily 11:30-22:00 南京东路 20 号，上

Mare Western Restaurant It’s the only place where you can taste Marseille Seafood Hotpot! The tomahawk steak is the best in Shanghai. Hotel Pravo, 2/F Mare Western Restaurant 299 Wusong Lu, by Kunshan Lu 吴淞路 299 号宝御酒店 2 楼 , 近昆山路

Oceans Dining in a romantic and contemporary setting, an extensive array of selected premium products from the sea. A distinct and innovative gourmet experience to satisfy the most discerning of tastes, Ocean fully realizes the art of cooking. Lobby floor, Banyan Tree Shanghai On The Bund, 19 Haiping Lu, by Gongping Lu (2509 1188) Lunch 11.30am – 2.30pm; Dinner 5.30– 9.30pm. banyantree.com 海平路 19 号悦榕庄 1 楼 , 近公平路

La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by Lujiazui Huan Lu (2828 6888). Open daily, 11.30am-2pm (lunch), 6-10pm (dinner). fbreservation.slpu@shangri-la.com, www.shangri-la.com/shanghai/pudongshangrila. 富城路 33 号，近陆家嘴环路 .

M on the Bund This Bund pioneer serves up impeccable service and a menu peppered with Continental, Aussie and Moroccan inspiration. Try the pavlova for dessert. 7/F, No.5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu (6350 9988) MonFri: 11.30am-2.30pm; 6.15-10.30pm; Sat-Sun: 11.30am-3pm; 6.15-10.30pm reservations@monthebund.com www.m-onthebund.com 中山东一路外滩 5 号 7 楼 , 近广东路

海璞麗酒店二楼，常德路 1 号，近延安西路

ON56 This four-in-one restaurant at Grand Hyatt Shanghai offers the best cuts of prime beef from the Grill, sumptuous Italian classics from Cucina, top-shelf sushi from Kobachi and delectable sweets from Patio. Daily from 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm; 56/F, Grand Hyatt Shanghai, Jin Mao Tower, 88 Shiji Dadao, by Yincheng Zhong Lu (5047 8838) www.shanghai.grand.hyatt.com 上海金茂君悦大酒店 56 楼 , 浦东新区世纪大道 88 号 , 近银城中路

RuiKu Restaurant The rooftop restaurant RuiKu serves fine-casual dining with a sharing concept. Enjoy the stunning view of the Bund’s historic waterfront and Pudong’s futuristic skyline. Daily 12-10.30pm. 21/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路 SAVOR All Day Dining Restaurant offers Western and Eastern cuisine showcasing an open interactive kitchen with buffet and a la carte options. 2/F, Pullman Shanghai South, 1 Pubei Lu, by Liuzhou Lu (2426 8888) Daily 6am - 12pm 浦北路 1 号 , 上海中星铂尔曼大酒店 2 楼 , 近柳州路

Sir Elly’s Restaurant & Bar Dine on fine modern European cuisine while overlooking the Huangpu River. Expert cocktails offered at both the circular bar and the expansive 14th floor terrace. 13/F The Peninsula Shanghai, 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu (2327 6756) Lunch daily 12-2.30pm; Dinner Sun-Thurs: 6-10.30pm; Fri-Sat 6-11pm www.peninsula.com/Shanghai/en/Dining/ Sir_Ellys_Restaurant/default.aspx 中山东一路 32 号

Polux by Paul Pairet Located in Xintiandi, Polux is a French café and casual bistro by Paul Pairet, Chef de Cuisine of culinary powerhouse Mr & Mrs Bund and three Michelin-starred Ultraviolet. Bringing contemporary French comfort food to an international crowd, brunch and cafe staples is the backbone of the menu, adorned by afternoon munchies and light dinner. Business hour: MonSun: 10am -10pm. No. 5, Lane 181, Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu. (6333 9897, poluxbypp.com) 太仓路 181 弄 5 号，近黄陂南路

Vue Restaurant Enjoy classic European fare with one of the city’s best skyline views. 30/F Hyatt on the Bund, 199 Huangpu Lu, by Wuchang Lu (6393 1234-6328) Daily 6-11pm 黄浦路 199 号 , 上海外滩茂悦大酒店西楼 30 楼 , 近武昌路

FUSION

上海半岛酒店 13 楼 , 近南京东路

Shanghai Tavern Jason Atherton’s all-day dining, brasserie-style restaurant draws inspirations from Elliot Hazzard’s period architecture and magnificent coffered ceiling. Its design is a nod to the layers of history behind the Shanghai Power Company Building. 1F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9511). 6-10:30am, 11:30am-11pm. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 1 楼，近江西中路

FRENCH Jean Georges One Michelin star restaurant JeanGeorges is the world-renowned eponymous chef’s first signature restaurant outside of New York. At the Bund-side restaurant, guests can enjoy his famed contemporary French cuisines at a newly renovated space with a fresh an elegant dining room, lounge, open kitchen and private rooms. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm, Sat-Sun: 11.30am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. 4/F, 3 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu) jgrespak@on-thebund.com. www.threeonthebund.com. 中山东一路 3 号 4 楼 , 近广东路 (6321 7733)

Mercedes me Store, The Bund This culinary spinoff courtesy of the luxury German automaker offers creative fusion international cuisine with the theme of ‘Respect the Mother Nature.’ Perfect for guests seeking a novel and refined dining experience, the ambiance and dishes showcase a balance between presentation and gastronomic aptitude. Sun-Wed 10am-10pm, Thu-Sat 10am- 2am. (6033 5833). L1, N3 Bldg, North, Bund Finance Center, 600 Zhongshan 2nd Road(E), Huangpu District, Shanghai, China 200010 中山东二路 600 号外滩金融中心北区 N3 栋一层 , 近枫泾路 200010

GERMAN Paulaner Brauhaus Enjoy Bavarian food (and more importantly, beer) in a warm, wellpopulated atmosphere. 1) House19-20, North Block Xintiandi, Lane181 Taicang Lu, by Madang Lu (6320 3935) Daily: 11am-2am www.bln.com. cn 2) 2967 Lujiazui Xi Lu, by Binjiang Da Dao (6888 3935) Sun-Thu: 11am-1am; Fri-Sat: 11am-2am 3) 3/F, 555 Shibo Da Dao, by Guozhan Lu (2206 0555) Sun-Thurs: 11am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 11am12am hellauer@bln.com.cn 1) 太仓路 181 弄新天地

海和平饭店 8 楼，近中山东一路

Jade on 36 Restaurant Jade on 36 Restaurant offers a contemporary interpretation of classic French cuisine. Chef Olivier Pistre uses exceptional ingredients and classic recipes presented with a contemporary twist. Guests can enjoy the magnificent view of Puxi skyline and the Bund. Lunch sets, dinner sets and a la carte dishes are available. 36/F, Grand Tower, Pudong Shangri-

ingredients. PHÉNIX also features an intimate yet vibrant lounge space, allowing guests to enjoy classic minimalist cocktails and an impressive wine selection with 250 labels. Level 2, 1 Changde Lu, by Yan’an Xi Lu Daily 6.30am – 11pm, phenix@ thepuli.com, phenix.thepuli.com (2216 6988) 上

北里 19-20 号楼 , 近马当路 2) 陆家嘴西路 2967 号 , 近滨江大道 3) 世博大道 555 号 3 楼 , 近国展路

GLOBAL CUISINE Mr. & Mrs. Bund Molecular madman Paul Pairet takes a more laissez-faire approach with this modern French eatery. Expect straightforward food and a great wine list. 6/F Bund 18, Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu (6323 9898) Dinner: Monday to Sunday 5.00-10.30pm, late Night: Thus-Sat 10.30pm-1.00am, brunch: Sat-Sun 11.30am-2.30pm www.mmbund.com 中山东一路外滩 18 号 6 楼 , 近南京东路

PHÉNIX eatery & bar Rooted in the philosophy of “Life is about the ingredients”, a visit to PHÉNIX is a charming invitation to reconnect with the essentials through an intuitive French cuisine inspired by the richness of seasonal natural

Morton’s of Chicago restaurants All Morton’s of Chicago restaurants serve the best available aged grain-fed beef, as well as fresh fish, Maine lobster, lamb chops and chicken mains. The menus offer generous portions of beef, including a 48-ounce (1,300g) Porterhouse, a 20-ounce (550g) New York Sirloin, and a 12-ounce (340g) Double Cut Filet. Morton’s restaurants are equally renowned for their extensive award-winning wine lists. The fully stocked bar also offers top-shelf spirits, domestic and imported beers and creative cocktails, such as their signature ‘MORtinis’. Shop 15-16, 4/F, Shanghai IFC Mall, 8 Shiji Dadao, by Yincheng Zhong Lu (6075 8888) 世纪大道 8 号 4 楼 15-16 号店 , 近银城中路

LISTINGS

Pelham’s Named after Sir Pelham Warren, the former British Consul General who launched the exclusive Shanghai Club for gentlemen in 1910, this restaurant at Bund 2 is a signature modern destination featuring global cuisine with Asian flavor. Surrounded by the stately heritage ambience of Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund, the restaurant emanates warmth, intimacy and elegance without being overly formal. 1/F, 2 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, Waldorf Astoria Club Lobby Level, by Yan'an Dong Lu (6322 9988). 5.30-10pm. 中山东一路 2 号华尔道夫会所大堂楼层，近延安东路

HOTEL BUFFETS Café Reign The all-day restaurant, Café Reign features a spacious and comprehensive open kitchen, offering an authentic Shanghai breakfast buffet, business lunch and a semi-buffet dining experience. Daily 6am-10.30pm. 1/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路

C MARKET provides an indulgent and lively culinary experience, allowing to guests to Enjoying indoor or terrace dining in an elegant and gorgeously sun-lit buffet restaurant with show kitchen counters that have a little bit of everything to satisfy any palate. Ranging from bold new cuisines to traditional favourites, sweet treats to spicy dishes, the possibilities at C Market are endless. (5263 9628, cdshh.cmarket@ cordishotels.com, WeChat: CordisHongqiao, http://www.cordishotels.com/sc/shanghaihongqiao/restaurants-and-bars/c-market/) Breakfast: 6.30-10.30 am daily; Lunch: 11.30 am-2 pm (Mon-Fri), 11.30 am - 2.30 pm (Sat & Sun); Dinner: 6-9.30 pm daily; A La Carte: 6.3010.30 pm. Ground Floor, 333 Shenhong Lu, by Suhong Lu 申虹路 333 号 G 层，近苏虹路 Five Live: Serving daily breakfast and dinner buffets, a la carte menu and extravagant Sunday Brunches, Five Live All Day Dining welcomes guests and gastronomes into a compelling cooking theater. An array of local Shanghainese, regional Chinese and international cuisines are prepared at five interactive cooking stations, including fresh seafood on ice, a grill and carving station, specialty noodles and dumplings, soup and Taiwanese hotpot, a Mediterranean kitchen and a dessert counter. INTERCONTINENTAL SHANGHAI NECC, 1700 Zhuguang Lu, by Yinggang Dong Lu (National Exhibition Convention Center, Gate 3) (6700 1888-6028) 国家会展中心洲际酒店 , 诸光路 1700 号国家会展中心 3 号门，近盈港东路）

Yi Café A buffet restaurant, Yi Café offers a vibrant selection of international and local favorites for you and your families and friends, presented by our team of passionate chefs. With eleven culinary theatres – featuring Chinese, Western, South-East Asian, Japanese and European cuisine in an interactive marketplace environment – diners will enjoy an unparalleled culinary showcase. 2/F, Grand Tower, Pudong Shangri-La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by Lujiazui Huan Lu (2828 6888), Open daily, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5:3010pm. fbreservation.slpu@shangri-la.com, www. shangri-la.com/shanghai/pudongshangrila. 富城路

Da Ivo in Venice. Located on the bustling corner of Chengdu Nan Lu and Huaihai Zhong Lu, Ai Fiori is just minutes away from popular entertainment hubs Found 158 and Xintiandi.

OPEN DOOR

2/F, 566 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Chengdu Nan Lu 淮海中路 566 号 2 楼，近成都南路 (6315 2037)

Acqua offers an inspired menu that captures the spirit of Italian dining. The open kitchen and oven are a focal point of the restaurant’s dining experience. Guests will also enjoy the large indoor aquarium and stunning views over the Huangpu River. With daily lunch and dinner service, Acqua is always a good choice to enjoy a delicious meal. (3867 9192) Lunch: 11.30am -2.30pm; Dinner: 6-10.30pm. 2/F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近百步街

Camelia Offering a range of authentic Italian dishes perfect for all occasions like a business lunch or a gathering with friends and family, at the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong’s Camelia, you can experience what the Italians call ‘la dolce vita.’ Lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner: 5.3010pm. (2036 1300). 1/F, Four Seasons Hotel Pudong, Shanghai, 210 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu. 世纪大道 210 号上海浦东四季酒店一楼 , 近陆家嘴环路

ISOLA means “little island” in Italian, which expresses a rich marine culture in Mediterranean sea around Italy and was inspired by original Italian food. Room 17, 4/F, 8 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu lunch: 11.30am-2.30pm, afternoon tea: 3-5pm; dinner: 6-10.30pm 世纪大道 8 号上海国金中心 L4 楼 17 号铺 , 近陆家嘴环路

La Scala Led by Michelin-starred guest chef Theodor Falser and Chef de Cuisine Stefano Sanna, La Scala places emphasis on crafting innovative Italian cuisine that prizes authenticity, refined quality and sustainability. La Scala is a journey of discovery and innovation – through presenting wholesome ingredients in its purest form, thoughtful flavor pairing with unexpected twists to traditional recipes, and artful presentations that touch on the restaurant’s culinary philosophy, each recipe brings attention to sustainable and local sourcing, zero waste and zero frozen and processed ingredients, paying homage to food, land and its people. 1/F, The Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路 VA BENE in shanghai is a modern Italian restaurant with new designed dining environment and extraordinary Italian food thath combines tradition and innovation. 1/F, No 7, Lane 181 Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 11am-midnight

WANDA REIGN ON THE BUND Hairy Crab Buffet Feast at Café Reign Get ready to celebrate the season’s bounty at Café Reign with a premium crab buffet. Locals love the crustacean’s famed butter orange roe and sweet meat, but Café Reign takes things to the next level with a range of elaborate hairy crab dishes. Of course, classic steamed crab is available, but it also comes stir-fried with rice cakes, in fried rice, with silken tofu or with scrambled eggs. You especially have to try chef signature drunken crab that is marinated with spices and Chinese wine for 48 hours. Wait, because there’s even more. Balance out the richness of your hairy crab gluttony with roast mushroom with black truffle onsen eggs. The healthy preparation and light flavor are the ideal balance to the splendid hairy crab offerings. Book now until December 30 via WeChat for special prices: RMB278 net per person RMB528 net per couple

> 1/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu 中山东二路538号, 近龙潭路 Open daily, 5.30-9.30pm (5368 8882)

太仓路 181 弄新天地北里 7 号楼一层 , 近黄陂南路

JAPANESE

33 号，近陆家嘴环路

INDIAN Bhoomi stores One stop destination where a wide range of Indian & Pakistani food products are served. 266 Yaohong Lu, by Hongsong Dong Lu, Minhang district, (2428 3400) Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm, Sunday 2-7pm 闵行区姚虹路 266 号 , 近红松东路

ITALIAN

Shinpaku Located at Three on the Bund, Shinpaku is a brand-new contemporary Japanese restaurant, where groups of like-minded people can enjoy each other’s company with authentic Japanese cuisine and over 100 different types of sake at a fashionable space with main dining area and private dining rooms. An ideal place for after-work drinks, casual dining and catching up with friends. Monday to Thursday 5:30pm 11pm, Friday to Sunday 11am – 3pm & 5:30pm – 11pm, 2F,Three on the Bund, No. 3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road shinpakureservation@on-thebund.com. www.threeonthebund.com 中山东一路 3 号 2 楼，近广东路 (6323 0093)

MEDITERRANEAN

Ai Fiori offers classic Venetian flavors with a modern twist for relaxed dining concept ideal for casual dates, group dining or private events. It has direct ties to the world-renowned Ristorante

Calypso Restaurant & Lounge The Calypso. Located in the hotel’s piazza, the eye-catching two-storey bamboo-clad glass-roof building brings Mediterranean cuisine to the doorstep of guests and residents. Roof terrace also available. This is topped off with DJ music, creating the epitome of a relaxed ambience. Restaurant Open Hour: 11am to 11pm; Terrace Lounge Open Hour: Non-Winter Season (Mar – Nov) 2.30pm to 1am (Mon - Thurs); 2.30pm to 1.30am (Fri & Sat); 12pm to 1am (Sun). Winter Season (Dec - Feb) 2.30pm to 11pm (Mon - Thurs), 2.30pm to 12midnight (Fri & Sat), 12pm to 11pm(Sun). WWW.THATSMAGS.COM | NOVEMBER 2019 | 75

LISTINGS

(86 21) 2203 8889. Jing An Kerry Center Piazza, 1218 Middle Yan’an Road, Jing An Kerry Centre on West Nanjing Road, Shanghai. 延安中路 1218 号南京西路静安嘉里中心南区广场

Thought For Food is the flagship restaurant inside The Living Room by Octave, open daily for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch serving tasting menus, sharing plates and quick meals that all feature responsibly and honestly sourced ingredients.Vegetables are sourced from certified organic farms and their own rooftop garden - fully traceable to ensure safety and quality to the table. The poultry, pork and seafood are carefully selected from free range sources that are certified and traceable.Daily 7am10pm;Sunday brunch 11am-3pm. Former French Concession>357 Jianguo Xi Lu, by Taiyuan Lu (3338 4660) thoughtforfood@livingoctave.com. www.livingoctave.com 建国西路 357 号 , 近太原路

MODERN

Pho Store Owned by an Australian Vietnamese, the Pho Store offers Vietnamese street-flavor phos in a cozy and trendy environment. 118 Xikang Lu, by Nanyang Lu daily 11am-10pm (6215 5534) 西康路 118 号 , 近南阳路 Pho Real Some of Shanghai’s finest pho and Bánh mì, with high-quality ingredients and a young, hip environment. 1) 166 Fumin Lu, by Changle Lu (5403 8110) Mon-Fri: 11am -2 pm, 5.30pm -10pm; weekends: 11am -10pm 2) 1465 Fuxing Zhong Lu by Huaihai Zhong Lu (6437 2222) Mon-Fri: 11am -2.30pm, 5.30pm -10pm; weekends: 11am -10pm 3) 1-L206, The Place, 100 Zunyi Lu, by Tianshan Lu 11am-10pm (5291 0907) www.phorealgroup.cn 4) Hongkong Plaza. S2-11 Hongkong Plaza, 283 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu (6313 8927) 11am-10pm 5) S07, 4/F, Takashimaya Department Store,1438 Hongqiao Lu, by Manao Lu (6278 3277) 10am21.30pm 1) 富民路 166 号 , 近长乐路 2) 复兴中路 1465 号 , 近淮海中路 3) 南京西路 1515 号嘉里中心 SB1-12, 近常德路 4) 虹桥南丰城南区 1 期 -L206, 遵义路 100 号 , 近天山路 5) 淮海中路 283 号，香港广场南座 2-11 室 , 近黄陂南路 6) 虹桥路 1438 号高岛屋商场 4 楼 07 室近玛瑙路

URBAN Café The award-winning all-day restaurant URBAN Café showcases flavors that are synonymous with Southeast Asia. The culinary team maintains the fresh burst that is the essence of Southeast Asian dining culture by using premium seafood, meat, and seasonal greens. 1/ F, The Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路

The Spot Bar & Restaurant Since opened in Sep 2006, the Spot Bar and Restaurant has been home of many expats away from home. The menu introduces delicious food items as well as the Spot’s signature dishes at reasonable prices. With a warm ambiance, it’s an exciting place where you get to meet friendly people.1) 2/F, 329 Tongren Lu, by Nanjing Lu (www.thespot.com.cn) 2) 152 Tongren Lu, by Nanjing Xi Lu 1) 铜仁路 329 号 2 楼，近南阳路 2) 铜仁路 152 号 , 近南京西路

URBAN Lounge presents a curated collection of global gins and premier tonics from around the world. The signature herb trolley is also a wellness alternative, featuring 29 specialty tea blends and over 8 seasonal organic fresh herbs. The Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路

PIZZA PizzaExpress 1) 380 Huangpi Nan Lu, by Xingye Lu (5383 3999) Sun-Thurs: 11.30am-11pm; Fri & Sat: 11am-11pm info@pizzamarzano.cn www.pizzamarzano.cn 2) Suite 107, Shanghai Center,1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Xikang Lu (6289 8733) Daily 11am-11pm info@pizzamarzano. cn 3) No.1, Unit 111, 570 Yong Jia Lu, by Yue Yang Lu (6467 8898) Sun-Thurs: 12-11pm; Fri&Sat: 11am-11pm info@pizzamarzano.cn 4) 507B/C, 5/F Grand Gateway, 1 Hongqiao Lu, by Huashan Lu (6447 8880) Daily 10am-10pm info@ pizzamarzano.cn 5) Unit 403, 4/F, K11 Art Mall, 300 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 1) 黄陂南路 380 号 , 近兴业路 2) 南京西路 1376 号上海商城西峰 107 号 , 近西康路 3) 永嘉路 570 号 111 单元 1 号楼 , 近岳阳路 4) 虹桥路 1 号港汇广场 5 层 507B/C, 近华山路 5）淮海中路 300 号 K11 购物艺术中心 403 号铺 , 近黄陂南路

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Coconut Paradise This cozy, Modern-Thai style house offers casual dining with lots of attention to southeast Asian detail with soft light,Dark teak wood and a faint hint of incense.The spicy beef lettuce wraps sprinkled with fresh mint make a perfect starter for the shrimp Pad Thai, also have the best curry cuisine .1) 38 Fumin Lu, by Yan’an Zhong Lu (6248 1998) 2) 2/F, 378 Wukang Lu, by Hunan Lu (5424 5886) Daily 11.30am-2pm; 5.309.30pm coconutparadise38@gmail.com www. lostheaven.com.cn/main.html1) 富民路 38 号 , 近延安中路 2) 武康路 378 号 2 楼 , 近湖南路

Greyhound Café focuses on innovation of a trendy dining experience and fine culinary skills. Having turned into a modern Thailand restaurant, it provides authentic yet traditional Thai cuisine in a fine-dining environment. 1) Room5, 1/F, Jing’an Kerry Center, 1515 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Changde Lu 11am-10pm 2) Room 503 5/F, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu 11am-10pm 3) 02A,1/F,22,23 Xintiandi Beili, Lane 181 Taicang Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu 11am-11pm (Sun-Thu) 11am-2am (Fri-Sat) 1) 南京西路 1515 号静安嘉里中心南区 1 层 05 号 , 近常德路 2) 淮海中路 999 号环贸 iapm 商场 L5-503 室 , 近陕西南路 3) 太仓路 181 弄上海新天地北里 22,23 号 1 层 02A 单元 , 近黄陂南路

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SPANISH Albero Enjoy Albero’s innovative Spanish tapas menu, ideal for sharing with friends in a relaxed atmosphere. The restaurant is decorated in an Andalusian style with sedimentary rock from the Huangpu River. (3867 9196) Lunch: 12pm-3pm; Dinner: 6-10pm. 2/F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近百步街

COLCA COLCA is the latest restaurant of celebrity chef & serial restaurateur Eduardo Vargas. This time he cooks food of his heritage: Peruvian. COLCA is a restaurant & bar specializing in seafood and grilled meats. It also features the first Pisco Bar in China with a wide range of pisco cocktails. Tucked into a new complex at Hengshan Lu, the restaurant boasts highceilinged interiors and a beautiful outdoor terrace. Dinner: Tue-Sun 5.30pm-1am; Weekend Brunch: 11am-4pm, close on Monday. Rm2201, 2/F, 199 Hengshan Lu, by Yongjia Lu (5401 5366) Pintxos Numbers of meats and seafood are imported from Spain to ensure the most authentic Spanish cuisine for every customer. In addition to the excellent quality of raw materials, the process is made simple and fast in the stylish minimalist restaurant. Pudong Kerry: 1378 Huamu Lu, Room B104, Kerry Centre, by Fangdian Lu (5858 0617) 2) Jingan Kerry: 1515 Nanjing Xi Lu, B1, Room 10, Jing'an Kerry Centre, by Changde Lu (6173 7983) 1) 花木路 1378 号嘉里中心 B104, 近芳甸路 2) 南京西路 1515 号静安嘉里中心 B1 楼 10 室 , 近常德路

CHAR Dining This modern steakhouse has position itself as a destination for premium quality Australian beef and sea food products. Its spectacular bund views, urban interior design, and International recognized Chef Willmer Colmenares has made this location a “must try” dining destination in the city. The menu presents classics with a twist; Boasting one the largest steak selection available in Shanghai. Starting from their grass fed products from Tasmania, to their grain fed 250days tomahawk or their selection of Wagyu products. Including the award winning Blackmore full blood Wagyu 9+ recognized as one of the best in the market. 29-31F Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the bund, 585 Zhongshan Dong Er lu, by Dongmen Lu (3302 9995), 5:30pm until late, kitchen close at 10:30pm. Bar, 17:00pm-late. www.char-thebund. com 中山东二路 585 号 29-31 楼，近东门路

Tapas & Lounge The food at Azul is created by Eduardo Vargas, mixed with Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine. During the last 14 years, the cuisine has been diversified with flavors, herbs, and great quality of ingredients, making Azul until today one of the best LatinMediterranean restaurants in Shanghai. 8/F, Ferguson Lane, 378 Wukang Lu, by Tai’an Lu (5405 2252) 武康路 378 号武康庭 8 楼 , 近泰安路

万豪酒店 40 楼，南京西路 399 号，近黄陂北路

Morton's Steak and Seafood Grille In addition to the finest grain-fed wet aged beef for which the classic steakhouse is known around the world, this new concept for Morton’s focuses on premium oysters including a rotating selection of fresh oysters from the United States, France, Australia and New Zealand. An extensive selection of generous seafood mains on the menu showcase pan-Asian influences. As always, there are also many side dishes and indulgent desserts, plus a sophisticated menu of fine wines, spirits and cocktails. L4-403, iapm Mall, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu (6067 7888) 淮海中路 999 号 , 近陕西南路

The 1515 WEST Chophouse & Bar Meat lovers will be delighted by the restaurant’s generous portioning philosophy. The house butcher presents signature prime cuts which are cut and weighed on an old-fashioned scale on the table and sent straight to the grill. Restaurant Open Hour: Lunch from 11.30am to 2.30pm; Dinner from 6pm to 10.30pm. (86 21) 2203 8889. 4/F, Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai, 1218 Yan’an Zhong, by Tongren Lu. 静安香格里拉大酒店四楼，延安中路 1218 号，近铜仁路 .

The Grill With a central grill, rotisserie and a large built-in marble displaying the freshest seafood, it is a contemporary and colorful venue for guests in search of the freshest seafood and succulent prime grade meats grilled right in front of them in the open kitchen. 56/F Jin Mao Tower, Grand Hyatt Shanghai, 88 Shiji Dadao, by Dongtai Lu (5047 1234) Lunch: Daily 11.30am2.30pm; Dinner: Daily 5.30-10.30pm 世纪大道 88 号金茂君悦大酒店 56 楼 , 近东泰路

号 , 近淮海中路 142 号 , 近南京西路

Logan’s Punch Cashing in on its slogan of being 'China's first punch bar,' Logan's Punch has enjoyed widespread popularity since opening in 2014. Previously housed in Zhang Court, this iteration moved to the up and coming Shaanxi Bei Lu vicinity in 2019. Expect a range of wellmade craft cocktails, sipped alongside a hip crowd of young expats and locals. Mon-Thu 6pm–2am, Fri–Sat 7pm–late. 479 Wuding Road, by Shaanxi Bei Lu, 武定路 479 号，近陕西北路

衡山路 199 号 2 楼 2201, 近永嘉路

STEAKHOUSES

JW’s California Grill Located on the 40th floor above Shanghai's stunning skyline, the relaxed and classy setting offers refined lifestyle dining with seasonal, market fresh cuisine using premium products cooked to perfection. Discover sophisticated chef-crafted cuisine in the main area or enjoy exclusivity in the private room among friends or business partners. 40/F, JW Marriott Hotel Shanghai Tomorrow Square, 399 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Huangpi Nan Lu (5359 4969, www.jwmarriottshanghai.com) 上海明天广场 JW

home-made snack. A free foosball table, classic rock and a big screen showing ESPN and Star Sports channels. 7 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Zhong Lu (6415 7019) Daily 1pm-2am jennysbar@ hotmail.com www.jenny-shanghai.com 东湖路 7

SPECIALITY FOOD SHOPS Green & Safe With an organic farm in Kunshan, this organic store provides daily delivered vegetables and a variety of local and imported organic goods, such as organic extra virgin olive oil, white and red balsamic vinegar, organic pasta, muesli and more. 1) 6 Dongping Lu, by Hengshan Lu 5465 1288, 1/F: 8am-10pm; 2/ F: 6.30pm-12am 2) 2) 4/F, 1438 Hongqiao Lu, by Hongbaoshi Lu 10am–9.30pm 3) 4/F, 1601 Nanjing Xi Lu (6258 8777) 1) 东平路 6 号 , 近衡山

Judy’s Established in 1993, Judy's is the longest running party venue in Shanghai! Have a few drinks, settle on the vibrant party atmosphere and enjoy the house band. Enjoy dancing the night away seven days a week with your favorite party rocking music. Food is available all day until wee hours. 331 Tongren Lu, by Beijing Xi Lu (6289 3715) Daily 11am-late www.judysco.com.cn 铜仁路 331 号，近北京西路

POP Bar influenced by the playfulness, art deco highlights and tropical vibe of cosmopolitan Miami, is a fun and elegant rooftop lounge to enjoy afternoons and nights in good company and funky music. Opening Sunday to Friday from 2:00pm till late; Saturday from 1:00pm till late. 7/ F, 3 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu (6321 0909) www.threeonthebund.com 中山东一路 3 号 7 楼 , 近广东路

路 2) 虹桥路 1438 号 4 楼 , 近红宝石路 3) 南京西路 1601 号 4 楼 B 区

Swiss Butchery brings you a world-class meat experience, offering a wide variety of highquality meat products. Expect freshly imported meat and delicacies like Italian and Spanish hams, European cheeses and fine seafood. All products are handled according to the most stringent food safety and hygiene standards and are available online or in any of their four physical locations. 1) 3187 Hongmei Lu, by Hongsong Lu, 5223 7301 2) 86 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, by Changle Lu, 5450 0068 3) 262 Baihua Lu, by Biyun Lu, 5090 6190 4) 219 Jinguang Lu, by Baole Lu, 2613 6986 1) 虹梅路 3187 号，近红松路 2) 乌鲁木齐中路 86 号，近长乐路 3) 白桦路 262 号，近碧云路 4) 金光路 219，近保乐路 (WeChat: SwissButchery or www. swissbutchery.com)

Senator Saloon Senator Saloon has the largest selection of Bourbon and Rye in Shanghai. Cocktails are carefully crafted. The atmosphere is intimate with velvet flock wallpapers and artisan tin ceilings. Popular bar snacks include Mac and Cheese, Pork Belly Sliders, and Chicken Pot Pie. 98 Wuyuan Lu, by Wulumuqi Zhong Lu (5423 1330) 五原路 98 号，近乌鲁木齐中路

SUPERMARKET city’super is a large international supermarket specializing in imported products. There is also a selection of imported and domestic fresh produce, including fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, fish and dairy, alongside a selection of sundries, wine, liquor and canned goods. 1) ifc Store - LG2, 8 Shiji Dadao 2) Shanghai Times Square Store - B1, 99 Huaihai Zhong Lu 3) Shanghai iapm Store - LG1 , 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu 4) HKRI Taikoo Hui store - LG2, 789 Nanjing Xi Lu 5) Shanghai Raffles City Changning Store - (E) B110, 1139 Changning Lu 1) 国金中心店 – 陆家嘴世纪大道 8 号地下二层 2) 大上海时代广场店 – 淮海中路 99 号地下一层 3) 环贸广场店 - 淮海中路 999 号地下一层 4) 兴业太古汇店 - 南京西路 789 号地下二层 5）长宁来福士店 – 长宁路 1139 号东区地下一层（400-653-8820, www.citysuper.com.cn）

NIGHTLIFE BARS

Jenny’s Blue Bar Second home to hordes of blokes who regularly stop by for a drink or a

CLUBS Bar Rouge Trendsetting nightlife destination Bar Rouge provides a unique nightclub experience in Shanghai. Located at the top of Bund 18, it is the city's go-to venue, offering a unique combination of high style and an unbeatable view of Shanghai's skyline from its spacious terrace. Open daily 6pm until late. 7/F, Bund 18, Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Nanjing Dong Lu (6339 1199, www.barrougeclubs.com). 中山东一路 18 号，近南京东路

Club Room This gentleman’s club-inspired lounge area at The Shanghai EDITION exudes a sense of warmth and exclusivity. The sophisticated venue features two indulgent lounge areas, a nine-seater bar, as well as a screening room and a karaoke room. 5F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9571). 5pm-2am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 5 楼，近江西中路

Electric Circus This club and VIP lounge for Shanghai takes a cue from the Studio 54 tradition with its dramatic lighting, otherworldly interior and signature EDITION cocktail mixology program. Electric Circus will play host to some of the world’s top DJs and performers,

LISTINGS

and is destined to become a must-visit venue in the Shanghai nightlife scene. 7F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9551). FriSat 10pm-5am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 7 楼，近江西中路

M1NT Winner of 2009 Readers’ Choice Award for “Club of the Year”.Join the posh and the poser alike in this quasi exclusive nightclub, where a chic dining room offering up superb Asian inspired fusion and grilled fare are a;sp available. 24/F, 318 Fuzhou Lu, by Hankou Lu (6391 2811) Lunch: Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm; Dinner: Mon-Sat 6-11pm; Club: Wed-Sat 9:30pm-late bookings@m1ntglobal.com www. m1ntglobal.com 福州路 318 号高腾大厦 24 层 , 近汉口路

RuiKu Champagne Lounge Located on the rooftop with a big terrace, RuiKu Champagne Lounge boasts a stunning view where patrons get to sip enticing cocktails while swinging with world-famous DJs Daily 10.30pm-Midnight. 21/ F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路

SPORTS BARS CAGES: Combined with American dining, baseball batting cages and over ten other sports in nearly 4,000square meters' Jing'an location, CAGES is the spot for you. Whether you are dining with your team or competing for bar game supremacy with your friends, CAGES has you covered. Be sure to contact us about our leagues, including dodgeball, 4v4 soccer, combat archery and more. 9am - 2am daily. Jingan Sports Center, 3/F, 428 Jiangning Lu, by Wuding Lu (3112 2950) 江宁路 428 号 3 楼 , 近武定路

HOTEL BARS BRU: Open from afternoon until late, BRU is a gastro pub serving casual comfort food, including rotisserie prime meats, fresh seafood and tapas plates accompanied by a wide selection of beers, wines and cocktails. As the name suggests, beer is the highlight with bottled craft beers from around the world and eight premium beers on tap. Communal benches and kegs to share are ideal for groups of colleagues and friends. Each evening, a live band enhances the stylish ambiance with contemporary and classic tunes. INTERCONTINENTAL SHANGHAI NECC, 1700 Zhuguang Lu, by Yinggang Dong Lu (National Exhibition Convention Center, Gate 3) (6700 1888-6031) 国家会展中心洲际酒店 , 诸光路 1700 号国家会展中心 3 号门，近盈港东路

Camelia Bar Perfect for a casual drink after work with friends and colleagues, the Four Seasons Hotel Pudong’s Camelia Bar offers a wide range of whiskeys, wines, champagnes and signature cocktails. The knowledgeable mixologists and bar staff are always on hand to offer recommendations perfect for your palate. 5pm-late. (2036 1300). 1/F, Four Seasons Hotel Pudong, Shanghai, 210 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu. 世纪大道 210 号上海浦东四季酒店一楼 , 近陆家嘴环路

CHAR bar Classy cocktails and sophisticated setting, best known for its exquisite 270-degree views over The Bund and Pudong skyline. 30/ F, Hotel Indigo Shanghai on the Bund, 585 Zhongshan Dong Er Lu, by Dongmen Lu (3302 9995) Daily 4:30pm-late, www.char-thebund. com 中山东二路 585 号英迪格酒店 30 楼 , 近东门路 Cloud 9 Located on Level 87 of Jin Mao Tower, this sky lounge has magnificent views of the entire city, where guests can enjoy a wide collection of creative cocktails, champagnes and Asian Tapas. The floor-to-ceiling glassed doubleheight section also holds a hide-away mezzanine bar. 87/F Grand Hyatt, Jin Mao Tower, 88 Shiji Dadao, by Dongtai Lu (5049 1234) Mon-Fri 5pm1am; Sat-Sun 2pm-1am 世纪大道 88 号金茂大厦 87 楼 , 近东泰路

Connection 12 Adjacent to the hotel’s swimming pool, the stunning rooftop bar opens up to the evening sky and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the city. Guests can soak up the relaxed setting while choosing from a selection of wines, cocktails and light snacks. Tue- Sat: 5pm-1am Level 12, 333 Shenhong Lu, by Suhong Lu (5263 9999) 申虹路 333 号 12 层，虹桥康得思酒店，近苏虹路

Havana Bar Experience Shanghai through the lights and energy of the hotel’s Havana Bar, located on the 30th floor. Take in views of the city while indulging in Royal Mojitos, fine wines and the full bar menu within a relaxed setting. (3867 8888) Hours: 4pm-1am. 2/F, Grand Kempinski Hotel, 1288 Lujiazui Huan Lu, by Baibu Jie 陆家嘴环路 1288 号上海凯宾斯基大酒店 2 楼，近百步街

HU Bar & Lounge is Shanghai’s newest nightlife destination and showcases the Best of Shanghai’s Past and Present. HU looks back at the past while embracing the progress and fast-paced evolution Shanghai is known for all while giving its guests towering, iconic and the most amazing views of the city’s skyline from all around. 64F / 65F, 789 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Xizang Nan Lu 南京东路 789 号 64-65 层 , 近西藏南路 http://www. leroyalmeridienshanghai.com/hubar

Jade on 36 Bar The ideal venue for sunset cocktails and late night drinks, take in the spectacular views of the iconic Bund and the dazzling Shanghai skyline while sipping martinis and fine wines paired with a selection of gourmet bites. Live DJs and musicians will put you in the mood for indulgence. Martinis take centre stage in the new cocktail menu set to launch in March at Jade on 36. Expect a selection of over 25 curated martinis ranging from light and refreshing to coffee-infused recipes and sweet treats, reimagined with unexpected flavours, alongside a selection of classic cocktails and indulgent nibbles. Happy Hour: Buy-one-get-one-free signature cocktails from 5-7pm daily; Free-flow champagne: Enjoy unlimited champagne every evening from 8-10.30pm at RMB 488++ per person. 36/F Grand Tower, Pudong Shangri-La, 33 Fucheng Lu, by Lujiazui Xi Lu 富城路 33 号浦东香格里拉大酒店紫金楼，近陆家嘴西路（6882 3636）

Jasmine Lounge The Jasmine Lounge has always been ‘the place’ to socialize while experiencing the finest tea experience and elegant evening cocktails. A specialty of the Jasmine Lounge is the traditional English style afternoon tea, complete with an extensive selection of teas from different origins, compositions and styles. Saturday Tea Dance experience harks you back to Shanghai’s glamorous golden age. Lobby, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 Nanjing Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road (6138 6886) Afternoon Tea Daily 14:00-18:00 南京东路 20 号，上海和平饭店大堂，近中山东一路

JW Lounge Bar Popular with high-flyers, this lofty lounge boasts panoramic city views and offers an extensive champagne list, either by the glass or the by bottle. Live music six days a week. 40/F, JW Marriott, 399 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Huangpi Bei Lu (5359 4969-6864) Daily 5pm-2am www. jwmarriottshanghai.com 南京西路 399 号 JW 万豪酒店 40 楼 , 近黄陂北路

Lobby Bar One of the nine bars of The Shanghai EDITION, the design of the Lobby Bar features bespoke plaster relief artwork inspired by carvings typically observed among Shanghai’s signature Shikumen housing. 1/F, Main Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9851). 6pm-2am. 南京东路199号上海艾迪逊酒店主楼1楼，近江西中路

Lobby Lounge With large floor-to-ceiling windows and a crystal chandelier, the Lobby Lounge offers a distinct atmosphere that is perfect for a rendezvous with a wide selection of top and rare whiskeys and fine wines. Daily 8ammidnight, 1/F, Wanda Reign on the Bund, 538 Zhong Shan Dong Er Lu, by Longtan Lu (5368 8882) 中山东二路 538 号 , 近龙潭路 Long Bar Offering a good selection of cocktails, deluxe oysters and premium cigars, legendary Long Bar remains to be a part of the Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund after architectural restoration. Lobby, 2 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, by Guangdong Lu (6322 9988) Mon-Sat 4pm-1am; Sun 2pm-1am 中山东一路 2 号外滩华尔道夫酒店大

by EDITION’s mixologists. 29/F, Main Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9537). 2pm-2am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店主楼 29 楼，近江西中路

Roof Garden Composed of a patchwork of brick and lawn terraces of different heights, the roof garden is an urban oasis that mixes Chinese greenery with luscious, tropical horticulture. The richly planted rooftop features an underthe-stars movie theater, a games area for lawn bowls and croquet, daybed seating, as well as the service of a full bar along with food and snacks. 8F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9528). 5pm-2am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 8 楼，近江西中路

The Jazz Bar The only address in China for legendary jazz, the Jazz Bar features the oldest jazz band that has been playing in the Fairmont Peace Hotel since 1980. With its relaxed atmosphere and extensive drink menu, it is the perfect place to unwind with Victor Sassoon’s classic cocktails and experience authentic live music. Lobby, Fairmont Peace Hotel, 20 Nanjing Road East by Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road (6138 6886) The Old Jazz Band Daily 18:00-21:45, 21:45-00:30 with the best female vocalist 南京东路 20 号，上海和平饭店大堂，近中山东一路

The ZUK Bar Filled with vigor and style, this trendy downtown hub is a great social space, guests can relax and indulge in a range of artisanal cocktails created by our mixologists. The Sukhothai Shanghai, 380 Weihai Road by Shimen Yi Lu (5237 8888) 威海路 380 号 1 层 , 近石门一路 The 1515 WEST Bar The Bar provides Champagnes, vermouths, sherries, white wines and a cellar featuring a selection of New World wines and Reds ensure that Wine Sommelier, Jasper Sun always has the best recommendations at hand. Open Hour: 5pm to 1 am (Sun-Thurs)\ 5pm to 1.30am (Fri & Sat). (86 21) 2203 8889. 4/F, Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai, 1218 Yan’an Zhong, by Tongren Lu. 静安香格里拉大酒店

ROOF Served with panoramic views of Pudong, this open-air lounge area at the rooftop of The Shanghai EDITION offers guests a comfortable and intimate setting where they can enjoy a range of classic and innovative libations made

Cosmetic Plastic & Laser Center

BIOSCOR Shanghai Clinic Cosmetic Surgery Botox & Dermafiller Laser Skin Center Cosmetic Dentistry

Bioscor Shanghai Clinic With over 10 years' experience, Bioscor's team of international docors and skin specialists are committed to provide you with the best level of service for all your cosmetic needs such as Botox, Filler, Pixel, Cutera, Ulthera, Microdermabrasion, Chemical Peel, Vein Therapy and Cosmetic Sugerys. No.5, Lane89 Xingguo Lu, by Hunan Lu (6431 8899) 9am-6pm info@ bioscor.com.cn www.bioscor.com.cn. 兴国路89 弄5号,近湖南路

Dream Medical Group Established in 2005, this Shanghai outpost of this Korean cosmetics clinic offers a range of services from skincare to dental care treatments. Operating with international standards, the brand's medical professionals are constantly searching for new technology to upgrade their offerings. Enjoy laser hair removal once with coupon, underarms only. 3/F, Zhongyi Building, 580 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Chengdu Bei Lu www.dreammedical.com.cn TEL/Wechat: 13651969238 南京西路580号仲益大厦A座3楼, 近成都北路 (136 5196 9238)

BEAUTY

Helen Nail Spa A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Helen Nail Spa is much more than a nail spa; they have a variety of pampering treatments and excellent waxing services. 1) 120 Nanchang Lu, by Yandang Lu (5383 8957) Daily 10am-10pm 2) No 6, Lane 819 Julu Lu, by Fumin Lu (5403 7802) 3) 70 Shimen yi Lu, by Dagu Lu (6333 7535). 1) 南昌路 120 号 , 近雁荡路 2) 巨鹿路 819 弄 6 号 , 近富民路 3) 石门一路 70 号，近大沽路

DENTISTRY

花园饭店 , 茂名南路 58 号 , 近长乐路

近江西中路

HEALTH SERVICES

MIND & BODY

Main Bar Ye Lai Xiang Located in a historic French club, the bar brings back the golden age in an Art Deco style. Fancy a taste of Whiskey and Brandy of your own? Pick from the full list and wait for an exclusive glass of cocktail to be served. Okura Garden Hotel Shanghai, 58 Mao Ming Nan Lu, by Changle Lu（6415 1111-5217）

Punch Room Surrounded by warm, wooden vertical slats, the 35-seat Punch Room provides an intimate and cozy bar lounge atmosphere where guests can enjoy EDITION’s renowned sophisticated cocktail program. 28/F, Main Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9540). 2pm2am. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店主楼 28 楼，

2) 江湾城路 99 号 3 号楼 1-2 层 , 近殷高东路 3) 常熟路 88 号，近长乐路 (400 868 3000)

四楼，延安中路 1218 号，近铜仁路 .

堂 , 近广东路

pentalounge Every Sunday between 11 am to 4 pm, diners at pentalounge at pentahotel shanghai can enjoy a spiced-up lazy brunch with a new menu and free-flow make-your-own Bloody Mary station. RMB148 per person (or RMB128 for those arriving after 2pm). Level 1, 1525 Dingxi Lu, by Yuyuan Lu (6252 1111 ext. 8100) 定西路 1525 号酒店 1 楼，近愚园路

Lu, by Qinjiang Lu 2) Jiahui Health (Yangpu), 1F/2F, Suite 3, 99 Jiangwancheng Lu, by Yingao Dong Lu 3) Jiahui Health (Jing’an), Suite101, 88 Changshu Lu, by Changle Lu (Mon - Sat, 9am - 6pm, 400 868 3000) 1) 桂平路 689 号，近钦江路

Jiahui Health's an international healthcare provider operating in several downtown locations. Our integrated network includes an international hospital with 24/7 emergency services and a Rabies Prevention Clinic, two medical clinics, a wellness center, and a team of internationally trained physicians. Our services include: emergency care, OB/GYN, family medicine, surgery, pediatrics, dermatology, dentistry, rehabilitation, clinical psychology, and CT/MRI imaging diagnostics, among others. 1) Mon-Sun, 24 h, Jiahui International Hospital, 689 Guiping Lu, by Qinjiang Lu 2) Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm, Jiahui Health (Yangpu), 1F/2F, Suite 3, 99 Jiangwancheng Lu, by Yingao Dong Lu 3) Mon-Sat, 9am - 6pm, Jiahui Health (Jing’an), Suite101, 88 Changshu Lu, by Changle Lu (400 868 3000) 1) 桂平路 689 号，近钦江路 2) 江湾城路 99 号 3 号楼 1-2 层 , 近殷高东路 3) 常熟路 88 号，近长乐路 (400 868 3000) www.jiahui.com/en

Jiahui Health’s experienced dentists provide dental health services for adults and children, including dental check-ups, fillings, prevention of tooth decay, painless dental pulp treatment, and treatment and protection against periodontal disease. The Dentistry Department also carries out multi-disciplinary collaboration in the hospital, such as working with dermatologists to offer invisalign orthodontics and solutions to skin problems for beauty seekers; working with E.N.T. specialists to help adolescents with problems such as mouth breathing, adenoidal hypertrophy and allergic rhinitis; working with MSK to provide sports lovers a comprehensive range of preventive strategies on sports injury. 1) Jiahui International Hospital, 689 Guiping

Global HealthCare Medical & Dental Centre. Established in Shanghai in 2005, GHC is premier one-stop medical center offering a full range of comprehensive medical services including general practice/family medicine and specialized services such as pediatrics, gynecology, ophthalmology, dermatology, orthopedics, cardiology, urology, general surgery and much more. GHC is OPEN EVERY DAY including weekends & Public Holidays.www.ghcchina.com Puxi Centre: ECO City, Suite 303, 1788 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Wulumuqi Bei Lu (5298 6339) 南京西路 1788 号 1788 国际中心 303 室，近乌鲁木齐北路

Pudong Centre: Shanghai World Financial Center, Shop 212, 100 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu (6877 5093) 世纪大道 100 号上海环球金融中心商场 212 室，近陆家嘴环路

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LISTINGS

Shanghai Renai Hospital is the first private hospital in Shanghai. It has over 20 clinical departments with outpatient and inpatient services. Located in city center with convenient transportation, it is influential throughout the East China region and enjoys a high reputation. Free parking available within hospital compound. Specialties: Family medicine, internal medicine, general surgery, gynecology, E.N.T., T.C.M., dental, vaccination and immunization, dermatology, urology, pediatrics, orthopedics, ophthalmology, cosmetic dermatology, plastic surgery etc. Operation Hours: Mon – Sun 9am-5pm. 127 Caoxi Lu (5489 3781, www.renaihospital.com) 漕溪路 127 号 Shanghai East International Medical Center A joint venture general hospital providing a comprehensive range of world-class services including family medicine, vaccinations, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, chiropractic care, traditional Chinese medicine, psychological counseling, specialty care, surgical services, as well as on-site 24-hour emergency service. also conducts CPR and first aid courses bimonthly in English and Chinese. 150 Jimo Lu (24 hour: 5879-9999 or 150-0019-0899 ; care@seimc.com. cn; www.seimc.com.cn) 即墨路 150 号 Shanghai St. Reiss Medical Clinic Founded in 2005, Shanghai St. Reiss Medical Clinic is located in the secluded former French Concession, Donghu Road, is a foreign-related general outpatient medical institutions. Since the inception, we have always been committed to providing patients with high-quality medical services, due to a good environment, attentive and thoughtful doctorpatient communication, careful diagnosis and professional personalized treatment which has received high acclaim from diplomatic and public. We offer following services: cancer medicine, cardiology, GI medicine, chest medicine, ENT, general surgery, pediatrics, gynecology, neurology, orthopedics, nephrology, psychiatry, psychology, skin dieasem and transplant medicine. Since 2019, Shanghai St. Reiss Medical Clinic set up a sleep center and established a cooperative alliance with the highly acclaimed Mayo Clinic Sleep Center in the US to fully introduce the operational processes and specifications of the Mayo Sleep Center and follow the guidelines for diagnosis and treatment of the American Association of Sleep Medicine (AASM). The Sleep Center is equipped with the world's leading digital wireless polysonography (PSG) monitoring equipment. The center has strong technical team and is led by highly qualified team of specialist physicians (including FRCP, FCCP) and AASM accredited technicians and nurses.Unit A, 19/F, 9 Donghu Lu, by Huaihai Zhong Lu. Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm. (5403 0228, 5403 8088)

9am-1pm 1) 南京西路 1376 号上海商城西峰办公楼 601 室 , 近西康路 2) 黄浦区蒙自路 757 号歌斐中心 3 层 304-307 室 3) 浦东东育路 255 号 S7 号 1-3 层，近企荣路 4) 浦东祥科路 268 号佑越国际 1 层 5) 浦东花木路 1717 号御翠园内，近芳甸路

269 号圆融星座商场 3 楼 3210

United Family Healthcare (UFH) This experienced, comprehensive, patient-centered caregiver has been providing personalized, international-level healthcare in China since 1997. Supporting local and expat individuals and families in Shanghai since 2004 with a wide range of advanced medical services, United Family now has two full-service hospitals and two neighborhood clinics, conveniently located in both Puxi and Pudong. Its Shanghai medical facilities are operated by over 200 highlyexperienced full-time doctors from more than 25 different countries and regions, supported by more than 300 nurses. Visit our website (http:// shanghai.ufh.com.cn) to make appointments right on your WeChat through the new Patient Portal, or simply call the Shanghai-wide Appointment Center ： 400 639 3900. 1) Shanghai United Family Hospital, 699 Pingtang Lu, by Kele Lu, Open 24/7 2) Shanghai United Family Pudong Hospital, 1598 Xin Jinqiao Lu, by Donglu Lu, Open 24/7 3) United Family Quankou Clinic, 8 Quankou Lu, by Linquan Lu Open Mon-Sat 8.30am-5.30pm, 4) United Family Fengshang Clinic, 689 Yunle Lu, by Jinfeng Lu Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm 1) 平塘路

sage brand that provides door to door service and a variety of body essential oil spa massage in a quiet and private environment. Whether you prefer a pampering spa at home or during your hotel stay, feel free to make appointments by calling 3490 1117 or 6882 1317 or go to their actual stores. Opening hours: 11-1am. Home service hours: 9am-midnight. 1) Pudong: 2302 Zhangyang Lu, by Jingnan Lu (6882 1317, 15221309767) 2) Puxi: 2/F, 1832 Gubei Lu, by Hongsong Dong Lu (3490 1117; 17717447707. www.toyoo7.com) 3) No.441,wuning nan lu,by changshou lu (62097991, 18217764112) 4) 2110，Site2, 218 West Tianmu Lu , by Minli Lu （52801997，19921155774）5) 7A,1 Ruijin Nan Lu, by Xujiahui Lu, Haixing Plaza (54188795, 18202131727) 1) 张杨路 2302 号 , 近泾南路 2) 古北路 1832 号 2 楼 , 近红松东路 3) 武宁南路 441 号 2 楼，近长寿路 4) 天目西路 218 号嘉里不夜城 2 座 2110，近民立路 5) 黄浦区瑞金南路 1 号海兴广场 7A

Subconscious Day Spa is a relaxing, eco-friendly,

(Plus 乐坊下沉式广场 ) 2) 富民路 118 号 , 近巨鹿路

HAIRDRESSERS Peter Salon is a professional, international-standard hair care salon in the heart of Shanghai.Our rock star team of expert English-speaking hair stylists are always at your service. 80 Wulumuqi Zhong Lu, by Anfu Lu,10am-9pm (5419 6757) 乌鲁木齐中路80号, 近安福路

MASSAGE & SPA Dragonfly Shanghai 1) 2/F, 559 Nanchang Lu, by Shanxi Nan Lu (5456 1318) 2) 206 Xinle Lu, by Fumin Lu (5403 9982) 3) L119, 1378 Huamu Lu, by Fangdian Lu (2025 2308) 4) 193 Jiaozhou Lu, by Xinzha Lu (5213 5778) 5) LG2-47 IFC, 8 Shiji Dadao, by Lujiazui Huan Lu (6878 5008) 6) 616 Biyun Lu, by Yunshan Lu (5835 2118) 8) SB1-05B, B1 South Retail, Jingan Kerry Centre, 1218 Yan'an Zhong Lu,

Yoga Centre will have the right class for you. 1) 2/F, Bldg2, 299Fuxing Xi Lu, by Huashan Lu (6433 4330) Daily 6.45am - 8.45pm info@yplus.com. cn www.yplus.com.cn 2) 3/F, 308 Anfu Lu, by Wukang Lu (6437 2121) info@yplus.com.cn 3) 2/ F, 202 Hubin Lu, by Shunchang Lu (6340 6161) Daily 7.30am-8.45pm info@yplus.com.cn 1) 复兴西路 299 号 2 号楼 2 楼 , 近华山路 2) 安福路 308 号 3 楼 , 近武康路 3) 湖滨路 202 号 2 楼 , 近顺昌路

Karma Life Yoga This large newly renovated high-end studio in Pudong offers a diverse range of styles and classes, including Ashtanga, Anusara, Hot yoga, soft Yin and Basics. The teachers are top notch and international, with world-renowned visiting guest teachers offering workshops and teacher trainings. Classrooms are spacious and bright, and changing areas are clean and stylish. Classes taught in both Chinese and English. 1) 160 Pucheng Lu, by Shangcheng Lu (5882 4388, 150 0003 0588) Daily 9am-10pm info@karmayoga.com.cn www.karmayoga.com. cn 2) 2nd floor, No. 758 South Xizang Lu 1) 浦城路 160 号 , 近商城路 2) 西藏南路 758 号 2 楼

推油网 ·Seven Massage 宫七 A high-end mas-

699 号，近可乐路 2) 新金桥路 1598 号 , 近东陆路 3) 泉口路 8 号 , 近林泉路 4) 运乐路 689 号 , 近金丰路 , (Appointment Hotline: 400 639 3900)

Shanghai Yosemite Clinic is a full-service clinic providing convenient walk-in medical services in Central Pudong. Our team of experienced physicians and nurses are dedicated to practicing according to strict patient safety standards and evidence based medicine. Our services Include: Family Medicine, Internal Medicine, General Surgery , Orthopedics(Sports Medicine), Dermatology & Medical Cosmetology, Dentistry, Gynecology ,Ophthalmology , Pediatrics, ENT, Vaccination Service, Anesthesiology, Rehabilitation Medicine, Medical Imaging, , Pharmacy, Laboratory, Psychiatry. (4008 500 911, www.yosemiteclinic. com) 1) Daily : Mon-Sat: 9am-9pm Sun: 9am-5pm B1-1F, 1398 Fang Dian lu, Pudong, Shanghai 2) Mon-Sun, 9am-6pm (Emergency Service 24/7) Fumin Lu, by Julu Lu 1) 上海浦东新区芳甸路 1398 号 B1-1F

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号 2 楼 , 近陕西南路 2) 新乐路 206 号 , 近富民路 3) 花木路 1378 号 L119，近芳甸路 4) 胶州路 193 号 , 近新闸路 5) 世纪大道 8 号国金中心 LG2-47, 近陆家嘴环路 6) 碧云路 616 号 , 近云山路 7) 延安中路 1218 号静安嘉里中心商场南区地下一楼 SB1-05B (25 号商铺 ), 近常德路 8）悠庭 @ LuOne 上海黄浦区徐家汇路 268 号 LuOne 凯德晶萃广场 B1 层 11/12 号

Dragonfly Suzhou @ Harmony City This chain of contemporary urban retreats offers relaxing massage and beauty services to customers with high expectations. Stepping into an oasis with fusion Asian décor and dim lighting, guests will be surrounded by tranquil sounds, wonderful fragrances and a romantic ambience while they get pampered with signature treatments. (0512-6763 0486) Harmony City Mall, Room 3210, Third Floor, 269 Wangdun Lu, SIP, Suzhou 苏州工业园区旺墩路

东湖路9号19楼A座, 近淮海中路

SinoUnited Health is a leading medical service provider based in Shanghai. Their team of medical specialists are selected from both abroad and China, and renowned for their excellence and rich experience in their respective fields of medical expertise. Shanghai-wide appointment center (400 186 2116, sinounitedhealth.com. cn, contact@sinounitedhealth) 1) Shanghai Center Clinic, Suite 601 West Tower, Shanghai Center, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu, by Xikang Lu Open Mon-Sat ,9am-6pm 2) Gefei Center Clinic, Medical, Dental and Endoscopy Center, 3/F, Gopher Center, 757 Mengzi Lu, Open MonSun, 9am-6pm 3) New Bund Clinic, Medical and Surgical Center, 255 Dongyu Lu, by Qirong Lu Open, Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm 4) Zhangjiang Clinic, Medical and Dental Center, 1/F, 268 Xiangke Lu, by Baiye Lu Open Mon-Fri, 9.30am5.30pm 5) Century Park Clinic, Sports Medicine and Rehabilitation Center, 1717 Huamu Lu, by Fangdian Lu Open Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6pm; Sat,

by Changde Lu (6266 0018) 8)Dragonfly @ LuOne B1-11/12, 268 Xujiahui Road, Huangpu District, Shanghai (6266 2378) Madang Road Station, Metro Line 13 (exit 6). Daily 10:00-24:00 relax@dragonfly. net.cn http://www.dragonfly.net.cn/ 1) 南昌路 559

holistic health destination for those seeing to balance mind and soul. 1) Open daily, 10am-midnight, Fumin Branch, 183 Fumin Lu, by Changle Lu (6415 0636) 2) Open daily, 10am-midnight, Dagu Branch, 458 Dagu Lu, by Shimen Yi Lu (6327 1193) 3) Open daily, 10am-10pm, Nanfeng Branch, Rm. 418, North Building, The Place, 100 Zunyi Lu, by Ziyun Xi Lu (6273 0161) 1）富民路 183 号 , 近长乐路 2）大沽路 458 号，近石门一路 3）遵义路 100 号南丰城北区 418 室，近紫云西路 www. subconsciousdayspa.com The Spa at The Shanghai EDITION Featuring a total of six treatment rooms and suites, manicure and pedicure services, sauna, an expansive relaxation area with fully equipped bar and a retail boutique, The Spa at The Shanghai EDITION showcases the best wellness and beauty practices, combining authentic Asian treatment traditions with premium therapies, specialized techniques and top-shelf products.. 6/F, Heritage Building, The Shanghai EDITION, 199 Nanjing Dong Lu, by Jiangxi Zhong Lu (5368 9988). 10am-11pm. 南京东路 199 号上海艾迪逊酒店辅楼 6 楼，近江西中路

YOGA The Pure Yoga Shanghai flagship studio is located at iapm mall on 999 Huaihai Middle Road, in the heart of Shanghai’s shopping district. Pure is Asia’s leading lifestyle brand and is proud to extend its foothold in Shanghai after Hong Kong, Singapore, Taipei and New York. Pure Yoga brings to our city its yoga and fitness expertise, a team of passionate and internationally recognized instructors, plus exciting workshops and teacher training conducted by renowned yoga masters. L6-615, iapm mall, 999 huaihai Zhong Lu, by Shaanxi Nan Lu (5466 1266) 淮海中路 999 号环贸 iapm 商场 L6-615, 近陕西南路

Y+ Yoga Centre Whether you are looking to develop your spiritual wellbeing, body toning or just socialise with the hip young crowd, Y +

FURNITURE Master Arnold & WOOX!LIVING Find custommade furniture & contemporary pieces to complete your living space here and abroad. From classic Canadian sideboard, vintage icons to Barcelona contemporary seating, you’re invited to explore. Salesman who speaks Chinese, English, German & Korean are always open for your furniture & interior ideas. Showroom New Opening in October 2017 in Qingpu. Call us or visit online shop: Joyce (Korean/ English/Chinese /German) 17321041917; Arnold (English/Chinese) 13611916641; George (English/German) 18962412911 www. wooxliving.com WeChat: wooxliving

CLASSIFIEDS

Shanghai East International Medical Center A joint venture general hospital providing a comprehensive range of world-class services including family medicine, vaccinations, pediatrics, obstetrics, gynecology, chiropractic care, traditional Chinese medicine, psychological counseling, specialty care, surgical services, as well as on-site 24-hour emergency service. also conducts CPR and first aid courses bimonthly in English and Chinese. 150 Jimo Lu (24 hour: 5879-9999 or 150-0019-0899 ; care@seimc.com. cn; www.seimc.com.cn) 即墨路 150 号

CLASSIFIEDS

CLASSIFIEDS INDEX BOOKSTORES EDUCATIONAL SERVICES MOVING + SHIPPING RECRUITMENT SERVICE TRAVEL VISA SERVICE

BOOKSTORES Garden Books SHANGHAI CENTER, F1/1376 Nanjing Road (W), (EAST SUITE)Sells imported books, newspapers, magazines and other foreign publications. www.bookzines.com chochobook@yahoo.com.cn 325 Changle Lu, by Shaanxi Lu (5404 8728) 长乐路 325

Email:hanna@hannapack.com Website:www.hannapack.com

OPEN DOOR

Seven Seas Worldwide® (Est. 1996) The first in moving personal effects and household items around the world: 60,000 customers every year, * Clear and transparent pricing & online, 30 seconds: query to quote * Boxes, bubble wrap & tape included * Support 24/7 with multi-lingual Advisors * 3-stage payment – not all upfront * Order managed online, real time tracking Try our Baggage Worldwide, 2 Large Boxes(30kg each), Price from CNY1,469 Please contact us on 4001816698 Web: www.sevenseasworldwide.cn WeChat: ssw7033

号 , 近陕西路

EDUCATIONAL SERVICES Apple Montessori Apple Montessori Xuhui Campus Add: No. 290, West Jianguo Road cross Jiashan Road, Xuhui district Tel: 021-33567892; 13671874701 Email: campus.xuhui@applemontessori. org Apple Montessori Pudong Campus Add: No. 889, South Yanggao Road cross Pujian Road Tel: 021-50771762; 13671874151 Email: campus.pudong@applemontessori.org HSK intensive course: 100RMB/class hour *30 class hours Mon、Wed、Fri 14:00- - 17:00 Sat、Sun 9:00- -12:00 Daytime Course Day: Monday-Friday Time: 10:00 ~17:00 1 to 1 Class Regular Daytime Course Price: Class hour: 50H, 7500yuan Class hour: 100H, 14000yuan Promotion Daytime Course Price: Class hour: 30H,4200yuan Class hour: 50H,6000yuan Huaihai Rd campus: 021-53067271 hanyuan@jicsh.com No.28 Gaolan Rd Shanghai Zhongshan park campus: 021-62418767 hanyuanzs@163.com Block A,13F,No.121 jiangsu Rd https://www.mandarinschool.net

MOVING + SHIPPING Hanna Relocation - Hanna keeps it safe. International/Domestic/Local Move Office Move/Storage Service M/Wechat: 138 1742 2742 Mencius T:6475 2726 F:5479 6362

INTERCONTINENTAL SHANGHAI PUDONG Oriental House’s New Look Oriental House provides diners an authentic taste of Shanghainese cuisine, as well as traditional dim sum and soups. These delicious offerings are all handcrafted by Master Chef William Weng.

YIBO RELOCATION SERVICE Focus: Office Relocation. Storage Service. Household Goods Relocation. Air Purifier Machines Rental Service. Contact: Eason Luo E: eason.luo@yiborelo.com M: 86-13764128061 T: 8621-62590003 W: www.yiborelo.com

While the restaurant wants to stick to its roots and respect high customer demand for classic favorites, Oriental House has thrown some new exciting food experiences into the mix. The result is a creative new a la carte menu. Must-try dishes include: poached black carp filet with conpoy and matsutake in chicken consumme, baked codfish with teriyaki sauce and double-boiled beef soup with black garlic served in a teapot. Chef William welcomes you to experience the new menu for yourself. Book ahead for your choice of private room or main dining area. Either way, the service team promises an unforgettable experience.

> 2/F, InterContinental Shanghai Pudong, 777 Zhangyang Lu, by Laoshan Lu张杨路777 号, 上海锦江汤臣洲际大酒店2楼, 近崂山路 (5835 6666)

RECRUITMENT SERVICE CESNA - Recruitment experts worldwide +86 21 6152 7877 info@cesna.com

TRAVEL Anutham Adventures Hangzamtog,Thimphu Bhutan Anutham means Happiness in Sanskrit. You travel begins here with us, Anutham Adventures. Let us guide you to the land of happiness and help you find your happiness. Let us be a part of your discovery to rejoice in simplicity and humbleness of the land of thunder dragon. Wechat: anuthamadventure Cell: +9751735-1434 Email: jikz7@yahoo.com anuthambhutan@gmail.com www. anuthambhutan.com