The Weavers Door Journal

The Journal

No. 001

By Weavers Door

The best items from the best brands, purveyors of fine mens apparel for over 25 years.

About Us

Editor

Weavers Door

Weavers Door is a collective aim to promote freedom of mind, seeking style over fashion and quality over quantity. Every item is carefully considered, the cloth the cut and the final stitch with each aspect is vital to the garment. A maverick approach to all things cool.

Lee Fleming journal@weaversdoor.com

Feel free to visit the store any time and say ‘hello’

Born from a desire to offer the finest menswear apparel and related products, our aim is to continue to strive for the best and nothing less. In a world swamped with poor quality goods, we can only survive if we seek to inspire and be inspired. Fashion is a fickle world and one we treat with an air of caution. A truly great item is beyond fashion it becomes part of you, a trusted friend.

A great jacket is a comrade in arms for many years, a great pair of jeans a second skin, a fine pair of shoes will walk with you on many journeys.

We Champion the “True Brands”, the Mavericks who lead the way and break the rules who lead not follow. Their authenticity and quality is sometimes overlooked but never diminished and continues to excite us long after the initial conception. So along with you we continue to search and discover, all which is truly great in menswear.

Purveyors of fine men’s apparel for over 25 years. The Best items from the best brands.

Creative Director Ricky Narito ricky@rogelionarito.com

Contributors John Towner Ciaran Skinner Will Grice Joe Juszczenko Alex Bentley James Hall Daniel Maddox Ritchie Clarke Dylan Cass Patrick Humphries Josh Parkin David Maguire Jacob Bagley Tom Mahamotho James Courtney James Robb

Special thanks to: Spiel Magazine Santa Chupitos Christabel Jay Daniel Sandqvist Paul McOlloy Joachim Baan Paul Williams Bryn Jones

Opening Times Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun

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10am 10am 10am 10am 10am 10am 11am

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6pm 6pm 6pm 6pm 6pm 6pm 5pm

1 Cavern Walks Harrington Street Liverpool Merseyside L2 6RE United Kingdom Site: www.weaversdoor.com E-Mail: info@weaversdoor.com Tel: +44 (0) 151 236 6001

Follow us Facebook: facebook.com/weavers. door Twitter: twitter.com/WeaversDoor Tumblr: weaversdoor.tumblr.com Instagram: @weaversdoor

Our story so far…..

In a time that will most certainly go into the history books as one of the most intense and crippling economic slumps of the past centuries saw a journey begin in the Winter of 2010 for all behind Weavers Door. Starting life on Harrington Street, a small, off the beaten track, side street nestled away in the heart of Liverpool city centre.

With our aim, to bring together the finest menswear apparel, footwear and related goods to Liverpool, we set out on our voyage to source the finest selection of menswear goods embedded in design, quality, craftsmanship and creativity to tackle the stale menswear we had become tiresome and uninspired by. With a outlook that we surely weren’t the only one’s, we mixed a perfectly formed selection of brands that we praised and believed in one the hope that other’s would find us and support our crusade against fast fashion and fad and instead champion heritage brands who have authenticity and originality.

After 18 months since opening the Weavers Door store we can proudly say the journey so far has been extraordinary and we were instantly overwhelmed by the response and support we received. The store and the brands we praised got the attention and appreciation we have hoped for and trade has been beyond our expectations and for this we thank everyone for finding us. The store for us was always and will always be somewhere like-minded people can come to visit to view our hand-picked selection of menswear goods but also know we are happy with them simply visiting the store and saying hello.

Our ambition was always to let our customers feel they had a second home, a walk in wardrobe where every man should be treated like a king, it’s this ethos that has meant our customers are more friends to us, we value personal contact, knowing our customers by name, their professions, where they go on holiday and if they are a blue or a red.

I’m proud to say Weavers Door doesn’t have a typical customer, some customers are in their early twenties and others later than their sixties, we have all walks of life through the door and for us that’s exactly how it should be. Everyone who visits shares a passion with us and our notion of independence, exclusivity and quality. The people we meet everyday share our trust in quality rather than trend because we strongly believe that when design is honest and pure, items will last years rather than months.

The introduction of our online store and website shortly after the store opened meant we could stretch our reach in offering our carefully curated selection of menswear goods to Liverpool and beyond. Weavers Door remains true to our brand identity, providing our customers and friends with the best items from the best brands that are a perfect balance of time-honoured and contemporary classics, crafted from the finest materials and fabrics, using craftsmanship and skilled people by brands, big or small, that have a story to be told because it may otherwise go untold.

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Contents

Page 6 The Tea Bar

Page 26 The Place

Page 40 The Portfolio

Page 52 Styled By

Leaf Tea Bar

The Brink

A Visit to the Grenson factory

Joe Juszczenko

Summer 2012: Welcome to the first issue of the Weavers Door Journal, a notion, created as an extension of what we are apart of, the culture and lifestyle we are associated with and the products and clothing that we value and praise, for more than their aesthetic but to further admire the craft behind the goods, who craft’s them and for what reasons. It’s through this passion and admiration that we truly appreciate attention to detail, a vision that we also value in other aspects of lifestyle trough a different

perspective. It’s with this willingness to explore and learn that we look to the things we enjoy, praise and applaud and highlight the craftsmanship, expertise, people and stories that are behind the curated selection of items we choose to present to our customers and friends.

to understand best, our customers and friends.

We treat the Weavers Door Journal as a mixing bowl of learning, discovering and appreciating the items we stock, the brands we present and the reasons behind us championing heritage brands and for having the ethos we have and are true to.

To share our visions an experiences and the reasons why we do what we do and enjoy it so much.

Door as an independent Liverpool Menswear store through the eyes of the Weavers Door team but along with our contributors, collaborators, friends and customers. We want to share not just the products, ideas and culture surrounding the store but to also include the like-minded independent community in It’s through this Liverpool, to highlight the good things others notion that we decided to appreciate our are doing be it our items, brands and local coffee house or the excitement and teashop we visit on The journal sets out our lunch break to the interesting things that accompany them with the to share not only the cocktail bar or local everyday inspirations people who we value the watering hole we stay most and felt would want and influences of Weavers out late in. Because

The Contents

Page 72 The Match

Page 86 The Interview

Page 100 The Tattoo Parlour

Page 110 The Bar

Weavers Door V Spiel Magazine

Sandqvist Bags

Forever True Tattoo

Santa Chupitos

Weavers Door v Santa Chupitos

With each issue of the Weavers Door Journal we hope to highlight the growing Liverpool community of professionals,

I would like to welcome you to the first issue of the Weavers Door Journal and thank you in advance for taking the time out to read it. Enjoy and be inspired.

“Try to learn something about everything, and everything about something” Thomas H. Huxley

weaversdoor.com

We all share a passion for finely crafted things that we all find special and connect with because of the genuine appreciation for details and quality.

creative’s, innovators, artists and baristas who invest a great deal of time and energy in what they do, who share a common interest and are passionate, all reasons why we want to showcase them, because they inspire us.

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not only do these good people deserve notice and appreciation but it’s in these places that we meet up with our friends and customers, be it food, drink or entertainment.

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LEAF ON BOLD ST. 65-67 Bold Street Liverpool L1 4EZ Tel: 0151 707 7747 Website: www.thisisleaf.co.uk

The Tea Bar

Leaf

By Lee Felming

E-Mail: info@thisisleaf.co.uk

The Tea Bar Leaf

By Lee Fleming

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The Tea Bar

Leaf

By Lee Felming

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LEAF has a unique vibe and personality, using two floors to deliver diversity.

LEAF on Bold Street is a unique independent tea shop and bar in the heart of Liverpool city centre. Our recent move to our new home on Bold Street expands our ethos in a space that can accommodate more and present a variety of events in a distinctive setting.

We host art, vintage markets, music and club nights, plus serve up delicious, wholesome food and hundreds of varieties of tea while delivering a great atmosphere. LEAF is a place for people to relax and enjoy culture and soak up the best in new music.

We are passionate about good quality food and drinks and a creative and imaginative space to hang out at any time of the day. We work closely with foodies, creatives, academics and musos to develop an events programme to appeal to like-minded individuals.

The Tea Bar Leaf

By Lee Fleming

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Nestled away on Bold Street in what was the late Microzine is one of the Weavers Door store team’s favourite places to hang out and enjoy ourselves. LEAF on Bold Street is a unique independent tea shop and bar that offers the city something new, creative and refreshing. Having begun as a small tea shop run by friends in a Liverpool city centre gallery in 2007, LEAF started with something we truly believe in, something that with abundance allows visions to become reality, they had passion, a passion for good quality food and drinks, tea being at the forefront.

The Tea Bar

Leaf

By Lee Felming

“Tea to the English is really a picnic indoors” The quest LEAF set themselves when starting was to bring good quality loose leaf tea to the city in an intimate and bohemian space and by 2008 all at LEAF realised they had found something they loved doing and it was soon time to expand so flying the nest was the next step to find somewhere bigger and more permanent. In late 2008, they found somewhere off the beaten track in a versatile place that left loads of room for potential, the location, Parliament Street.

The Tea Bar Leaf

By Lee Fleming

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12 Leaf

By Lee Felming

The Tea Bar

After a rough ride based on Parliament Street, through a stormy recession period, with no passing trade and a hefty space to fill, LEAF started to make some amazing process in a period where progression was hard to achieve, racking up many accolades and awards both locally and nationally LEAF developed a brilliant following of regular customers and were hosting club nights, pudding clubs, album launches, vintage markets and much more.

It didn’t take long for the space to fill and the need for somewhere to house all LEAF’s monthly events and café all under one roof and it was in the Autumn of 2010 that LEAF made its warmly welcomed introduction onto Liverpool’s old independent trading street. Now found at 65-67 Bold Street, LEAF stands in a beautiful art-deco building and the aesthetic it be transformed a truly magnificent building into a homely and welcoming space. Formerly a tea room in the 1920’s, a cinema in the late 20th Century and most recently Microzine, LEAF on Bold Street spreads itself over two spacious floors with couches, a café and acoustic stage on the ground floor and upstairs is open to its host, transforming itself between a art gallery, live room, night club and huge event space for those with an event to put on.

LEAF’s most recent home on Bold Street can only be seen as perfect for expressing the vision that LEAF had originally set out to achieve, by offering good food, drink and especially loose leaf tea, the expansion has come hand in hand with the

LEAF ethos in a space accommodating more and a greater variety events in a distinctive setting that all walks of life can enjoy. A setting which offers a unique vibe and personality while utilising two floors to deliver diversity means the array of events LEAF can offer is only getting better in choice and following. Hosting art, vintage markets, music and club nights while serving up delicious, wholesome food and hundreds of varieties of tea in a unique atmosphere to create a environment where people can relax and enjoy culture while sipping on the best tea in Liverpool and soaking up the best in new music.

“Where there’s tea, there’s hope” It’s a place we visit, and visit often may we add, the creative and imaginative space is somewhere to hang out at any time of day.

Every time we pop by we always take note of the different types of people that surround in the cosy environment, be it foodies, creative, academics or musos it’s a venue where everyone can come and the array of events on means there’s also something for everyone, add good quality food, drinks, Jasmin Arch Tea and a Chocolate Brownie to the list and we are pretty sure there isn’t anywhere else better to spend your free time in good company with likeminded individuals.

The Tea Bar Leaf

By Lee Fleming

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Style is Better than Fashion.

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Fashion is a funny old game. It changes every month, it costs loads, and most of it is shit.

How many lads do you know who would wear a knee length, see-through vest? None, I hope.

It’s fair to say that it’s mainly for girls.

However, there is plenty of lads clobber out there in the ‘fashion world’ and it’s getting bigger and bigger. The other thing is, it’s not really ‘stylish’ is it.

It’s weird shapes, weird materials and weird colour combinations.

It’s weird. Style is something that you take home and your mum says, your dad used to have one of those.

Style comes back round.

Fashion doesn’t, it’s got an expiry date. My Grandad used to wear a pair of cords or grey flannel trousers with boat shoes or brogues.

I think you get my point, I could wear the same clobber, fair enough with a bit of alteration, and it would still look good.

The Edit

Style Over Fashion

By John Towner

I think the main thing about style is that it’s personal. You want to wear it, it has no time limit and no one is going to tell you it’s shit 6 months

after you’ve bought it.

This makes it worth the money, because you’ve pictured it with the rest of your wardrobe and it’s going to last.

The ‘personal’ bit about style is important.

It’s what separates the celebrities from those who you’d see on a street style blog for example. Most celebrities would have crap rig outs if it wasn’t for someone else dressing them. That’s exactly my point it’s someone else’s personal style but on someone else. This is why Gary Barlow and his X Factor buddy Dermot don’t look as good as they should in their perfectly tailored suits. If it was their choice they wouldn’t be wearing them. Yes Dermot, I’m onto your three-quarter length cargo shorts and crap pumps when it comes to judge’s houses.

Street Style is where inspiration should come from. We all follow plenty of blogs where someone is doing something that little bit different with a classic piece. Just have a look at how many of these people are wearing simple combinations, like a shirt and blazer or jeans and a t-shirt.

To the untrained eye they’re all just wearing

the same thing. However those who know can see it’s the little details that count.

These people spend time and money making their personal perfect wardrobe. They don’t have bottomless pits of money or a clothes rail in the makeup department before they go on before the cameras. There’s a personal touch about it all. Celebrities however get one of these people to do it for them. That is why they look stiff. Like a mannequin in a shop window. There’s no personal touch.

Obviously there are some exceptions to this, and even some people who work with clothes have become celebrities, but I think we should think carefully next time we call anyone who get’s in the Daily Mail on a regular basis, a style icon.

You’re probably wondering how I got from saying fashion is shit to celebrities aren’t style icons.

But I think there’s a parallel. There’s only a short period where these people look good and it’s the same with fashion. Style lasts, and can ensure you look good for a long time.

Shop By

Accessories

Shoes

Chinos & Trousers

Denim

Trainers

Shirts

T-Shirts

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Coats & Jackets

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RED WING SHOE COMPANY 314 MAIN ST. RED WING, MN 55066 Tel: 1-800-RED-WING 1-800-733-9464 Website: www.redwingamsterdam.com

Behind The Craft

Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

Photography complimented

by Another Something & Co. Website: www.anothercompany.org Special thanks to Joachim Baan for his support.

Behind The Caft Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

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Behind The Craft

Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

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Behind The Caft Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

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Behind The Craft

Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

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Behind The Caft Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

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Behind The Craft

Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

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Behind The Caft Redwing Shoe Factory Photography By Joachim Baan

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weaversdoor.com

24 Khaki by Dockers

By Lee Fleming

The History

From its origins, Khaki very quickly became a symbol of American life, worn with pride and a youthful attitude for more than a quarter of a century and has stood the test of time as a legwear essential every season for its durability and simplicity as a garment and fabric. Steeped in heritage, Khaki is nostalgic with a insatiable appetite for all things retro, with their tough and robust durability khaki has been at the forefront because its championed for its simple and functional style and its industrial blue collar workwear heritage that distinguishes the cloth from other workwear fabrics as the antithesis to denim and unlike the indigo cotton fabric, khaki heritage stems from the uniforms of Great Wars.

The word Khaki originates from the Urdu word “khāki,” meaning “dusty,” and from the Persian word “khak,” meaning “dust”. Khaki was first adopted by the British Army in the mid19th century for its field uniforms, at first informally in India, and then eventually throughout the British Empire. As the Oxford English Dictionary elaborates, Khaki was composed of “stouttwilled cotton,” or “Khaki drill,” but also sometimes of wool, a variant known as “Khaki Bedford”.

The provenance of Khaki started after unsuccessful attempts to design a camouflage

dress for Imperial war uniforms for the British Army during the middle part of the 18th century and it was Khaki that broke the mould.

In 1844, missionaires in Mangalore, India, who knew little about the weaving business took the initiative to form a textile factory employing a local task force, this led to the looms of Basel Mission at Mangalore to pioneer the introduction of the first handloom with a fly shelter. It was due to the master weaver, an Irishman by the name of John Haller that meant Khaki gained global recognition and he also invented new dyes and colour hues out of indigenous ingredients that meant the invention of khaki dye was attributed to him. But is was Sir Henry “Harry” Burnett Lumsden who was credited as the inventor (or at least the populariser) of military khaki, in 1846, Burnett Lumsden who was stationed in India, took the lead to dye his cotton pajamas with plant extract, mazari to create a uniform more suitable to warmer climates than the traditional heavy red felt. The tawny colour, similar to the regions saffron dust helped the clothing blend in with the surroundings.

British Army serving HM Queen Victoria and the British Empire. The British Army used khaki uniforms for the Sudan Wars in South Africa during that year and by 1884 the British Army had adopted khaki as its official uniform. The khaki colour dye was patented in 1884 and became popular with the allied forces during WWI and with the US Army in WWII.

Khaki made the transition from its military setting to civilian life during the late 1940’s/early 1950’s as young men returned home from the front line and continued to wear them. With the G.I bill allowing former soldiers to attend college, it was this that popularised the presence of khaki in collegiate communities and it would spread from campus to campus giving birth to the ‘Ivy League’ style that is massively influence to this day in menswear with pastel coloured polo shirts worn with khaki pants and yachting shoes defining the look. Away from the college campus, khaki’s popularity remained apparent and in many ways it was this spread of khaki wear more a act of necessity as men adapted their khaki fatigues as workwear. During the In 1851, Lord Robertson, late 1940’s alongside who visited the looms the boom of the Dude of Basel Mission Ranch in America, where recommended in a letter rich Easterners would to the newly instated get ‘duded up’ in Conservative Prime expensive Western gear Minister Edward Smithand be squired around by Stanley, Earl of Derby, dude wranglers, out of that khaki should be work riders and former recommended for the G.I’s often none too

thrilled to play act a scripted role. The casual attire of the ranch was not only a large part of playing cowboy, but also a very effective way to break down social formalities.

Only a decade later and khaki had become a fashion statement for the East and West Coast style a throwback to the ‘Ivy League’ style of the 1950’s. From Elvis and Chuck Berry to Gore Vidal, Tab Hunter, Steve McQueen and Paul Newman all these style icons took the khaki fabric into the next decade as did the US political establishment under John F. Kennedy and Jimmy Carter, with all epitomizing a free spirit with a comfortable, utilitarian, everyday attitude.

Dockers continue to reign supreme in the khaki arena as the master pantsman, highly skilled in the art of pantsmanship for crafting the best pants in the world and focus on the khaki built with purpose and crafted to last while their fits stand tall and speak clearly to every man. They build their collections on the honour and integrity of men who have built their own lives on commitment, conviction and purpose.

Ordinary men who work to live and take passion in a job done well.

Craftsman and artisans, men who are reinventing what it means to get a job done by doing work they love, work that matters. It is all about creating a legacy to leave to others.

The History Khaki by Dockers

By Lee Fleming 25 weaversdoor.com

Alpha khaki: Dockers are dedicated to build on its craftsmanship and tradition to create a wardrobe essential which is built with purpose and built to last, Khaki is to be worn, loved and last a lifetime.

The latest addition to the Dockers portfolio, the Alpha khaki, is a Weavers Door favourite amongst the team, stating where jeans end and khaki begins the Alpha Khaki is dominant and essentially masculine and is different from what has gone before. The fit is natural and fabrication rooted in tradition and years of craft and design, yet the Alpha khaki is unequivocally modern with finishes that are build over time, character is developed through wear and earned by you no differently to breaking in a pair of dry denims to give a unique finish and aesthetic built on what you do in your everyday life.

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15-21 Parr Street Liverpool L1 4JN Tel: 0151 703 0582

The Place

The Brink

By Lee Fleming

E-Mail: info@thebrinkliverpool.com

The Place Portfolio A visit to the Grenson factory The Brink

By Christabel Lee FlemingJay

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The Place

The Brink

By Lee Fleming

Having recently found ourselves finishing an enjoyable Saturday shift in the store, John and I decided to venture out for a bite to eat.

mission successful, it was well worth it.

problems of alcohol abuse in Merseyside being well known, with Our calculated logic a study by Liverpool behind making the John Moores University journey to The Brink was showing the city to because its ‘Britain’s have the highest level first dry bar’, so I of hospital admissions We didn’t have anywhere in mind just to stay guess we cheated a in Britain linked to little as we knew no clear of the yearly alcohol. More than one would be drinking antics that coincides 3,800 alcohol-related in there, alcoholic with the St Patrick’s hospital admissions in Day celebrations. Having beverages that is 2011 meant Liverpool was successfully dodged most anyway. ranked bottom in the Local Alcohol Profiles of the drunken gathers on the city’s streets in England index as the “The ingenious (may I add this was at worst city for alcohol plan of making abuse in the Country.

7pm in the evening) we came up with the the journey ingenious plan of where It’s when you hear to The Brink we could guarantee being statistics like this fed and watered without that it highlights ‘Britain’s first a infamous Guinness hat the need for help and dry bar’.” being placed on our head according to Carl from behind and being Alderdice, Manager of Having only opened its roped into a drunken Brink, Liverpool is also doors to the public sing song.

“The recovery capital”. last September, The The bar, is a social Brink has been a great Our mission, to get to enterprise he explains, addition to the city The Brink undetected run by a limited and for good reason with and not only with our company, “We are self

The Place The Brink

By Lee Fleming

supported environment and have been trained as ‘recovery champions’ who are able to listen to those with a similar history and relate to in a comfortable setting.

They’re also meeting rooms and a counsellor who visits regularly to provide support to those in need.

Carl, feels that the bar is breaking down stereotypes of those in recovery and believes it has potential to expand to further cities. If it stops one alcohol-related admission per week to the city’s hospitals, he feels The Brink and all that support the bar will have made a important contribution to Liverpool.

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The great part to going to The Brink is the diverse mix of customers you find yourself nestled amongst as Brink customers aren’t just those who are in

recovery but just as importantly The Brink is a haven for people who want to visit a alcohol-free venue, free from the ‘testosterone, drink and drug-fuelled nightclub and bar scene’. It makes the venue an ideal location for families to visit at ease without any apprehension at mind.

The Brink has positives on both sides of the bar, as not only a successful dry bar for providing customers who wish to avoid alcohol with a social outlet , but it also plays another role for those recovering to enter the workforce again. Staff at The Brink have had issues with alcohol in the past, which previously have prevented them working, they are now in working in a

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funded, and invest in helping people with drug and alcohol addictions”.

The original initiative for the bar came from the charity Action on Addiction, which highlighted the impact of alcohol abuse on homelessness, directly linked to the sharp recovery service in the city. Carl, who was originally brought in to The Brink concept through a consultancy role explained the feasibility of a ‘dry bar’, while Liverpool has many cafes, “the difference is that The Brink is actively saying they’re a dry bar.”

The Place

The Brink

By Lee Fleming

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The Place The Brink

By Lee Fleming

It’s a sobering thought to see why The Brink has been a instant success for the Liverpool community both for those who have or are suffering from alcohol or drug related problems but also for those of us who prefer a environment free of alcohol, and just proves a great time can be had in its absence and that its who’s around not what’s

in your bottle that makes a good time.

There are all sorts of activities on at The Brink, from poetry nights, acoustic nights, film nights , pretty much whatever you could want, with something cultural every day, so next time your passing visit the dry bar for yourself and enjoy what’s on offer.

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Not only was the quality of food great and more than reasonably priced, the laid back atmosphere created in what was a garage housing a rusting

and dilapidated classic car has brought a new lease of life to the venue. With industrial features are layered with quirky, homely tables and chairs and its trademark feature lampshades with plants in them compliments of Richard Eastwood at R2 Architecture.

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Without forgetting about why we went into The Brink in the first place it’s safe to say the variety of non-alcoholic drinks and seasonal menu made our decisions a though one. I knew that Tom Gill (formerly head chef at the Everyman Bistro) was at the helm in the kitchen so I knew it was going to be a win-win and ended up opting for the Brink Burger and a bottle of Sarsaparilla to wash it down, and down it went, I was pleased with my decision and compliments went to the chef.

#norseprojects #sunspel #scandinavia #tee #nudiejeans

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Good for All Seasons?

The Edit

Good For All Seasons?

By James Robb

How a Changing Climate Won’t Stand in the Way of Scandinavian Menswear.

Chances are that if you’ve stepped foot near a reputable menswear retailer any time of late then you’ll be familiar with some of the following names: Our Legacy, Han Kjobenhavn, Happy Socks, Fjallraven, Nudie Jeans Co. and, of course, the peerless Norse Projects. Aside from weighing down shelves in stores across the globe (some pieces for a lot less time than others) these brands have much in common.

Principally, they all hail from that magical, mystical, marvellous and forever the frosty side of mild (I’m talking climate now, as we’re contractually obliged to do when talking clothes) we know as Scandinavia.

Whilst each possessing individual design sensibilities their collective appeal is patently apparent too:

clean lines and classic silhouettes with a rugged edge, delivered by way of the finest and most durable materials.

Yet whilst a traditional emphasis on form and function permeates the collective ethos, all manage to bring a modern twist to the visuals and to the process – it is here where Norse is most definitely leading the way.

backward-looking. Take their Visby sweatshirt from this year’s AutumnWinter collection which bafflingly – and yet so brilliantly – merges the internal structure and silhouette of a classic 1950s sports sweatshirt with a wool outer recalling a cold Northern postwar pit-town or the garb of a Scandinavian tree-feller; a deft touch like this is What Norse Projects ever-present. Never is doing can be seen ones to rest on their as typifying a sort of laurels either, this insurgent post-modernist year has seen their approach to premium trademark raincoat, men’s clobber void of made in collaboration the eccentricities that with fellow-Danes Elka characterise some more – an eternally selfeminent labels whilst justifying purchase still rejecting the all given the early too prevalent trends of October downpours – the last half-decade has been updated to be such as diamante-clad more reminiscent of, t-shirts, garish skullsay, Nike NSW’s more and-dagger motifs and technical output. graphic-emblazoned denim of the same ilk.

Standout pieces are All surely consigned numerous. We would to the past by now. not hesitate to laud Sartorial modernity and a collection such as conservatism combine this as being ‘perfect to prove that heritage for winter’ but if doesn’t have to be that Indian Summer

(you know, before the rain) is a sign of things to come then the Scandinavian ascendency presents an intriguing paradox considering the very real spectre of Global Warming.

Yet what it is not, however, is unwarranted, particularly with this latest collection, as Norse embodies sound innovation whilst all the while pushing a distinctly familiar (and distinctly Nordic) style that provides arguably the biggest incentive yet not to leave the taps running, stop littering and get the recycling organised.

So, if justice and goodsense prevail, the socalled ‘cold cold North’ will soon be known for far more than flat-pack furniture, a certain Tommy Gravesen and (though probably not half as many as I’ll lead you to believe) dyed-in-the-wool Liverpool fans in these parts.

The Importance of the Basic T-shirt.

money, the archetypal staple piece grossly overlooked. Yes, I’m referring to our good friend the plain white tee. Think about its inherent qualities: versatile; defying time and place in its simplicity – it’s tough to put a foot wrong in one (even as a single layer on October 5th; if this year’s setting a precedent). Yet we are, one and all, guilty of treating the basic tee as something of an afterthought whilst gladly shelling out on graphic tees - very much limited to the where, What strikes me, when and sometimes the actually, is less the who – by the likes of flagrant misuse and abuse Stussy, Alife, good old of these words – which Adidas and (God forbid) is largely inevitable Billionaire Boys Club. but more the neglectful application which Typically we protest sees, what is for my about paying for a top

that’s “only plain”, the implication being that it’s dull, but surely the better value - the better ‘investment’ is delivered by the tee that you can wear dayin day-out whether it be out on top in the peaks of Summer or buried beneath a multitude of layers in the troughs of Winter. Fit, form, function and value all come into play here in a way that no other garment can lay claim to and, in my experience, quality isn’t delivered by the budget multi-pack and I’m as guilty as the next person for taking the easy route there.

So it’s time we showed the t-shirt some much deserved love; even if you are just popping out for the morning paper – or staying in to read The Journal.

The Basic Tee

By James Robb

In the never-ending world of menswear coverage that encompasses various media platforms (of which we are a part, granted) from magazines and e-journals to Tumblrs and Blogspots buzzwords and clichés spring forth eternally, lending to what can sometimes feel like a stale and uniform approach to a field defined by creativity.

When it comes to all things sartorial (is sartorial a buzzword?) then no such words are more prevalent than “staple” and “investment.” Heaven

forbid any of our wardrobes should be lacking in either but, in the context of such exhaustive usage, what do those two words hold any tangible meaning? Too often such labels – not quite interchangeable – are applied freely, bandied about like flyers announcing the grand re-re-opening of some club or other (yes, the Magnet) to garments that are the very definition of seasonal; the sort of thing that makes a chocolate fireguard seem like a sound investment.

The Essential

A ‘Staple’ is the Glue that Holds Every Man’s Wardrobe Together:

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The Lookbook

Norse Projects SS/12

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The Lookbook Norse Projects SS/12

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The Wishlist

Mental Shopping Basket

By Josh Parkin

36 #MSB #oliverspencer #folk #spiel

Mental Shopping Basket

By Josh Parkin

Each issue we ask one of our customers/friends of the store which items they have seen and put in to their mental shopping basket.

The Wishlist

We all do it, every season we review our wardrobes and look to fill any missing gaps so we can feel confident in our wears. Once we know what we need/want we begin the hunt to fulfill our wardrobe wishlist.

1. Herschel Supply Co. Scout Backpack - £55.00 2. Green Soccer Journal Issue 3 - £8.00 3. Folk Joplin Belt - £68.00 4. Nudie Jeans Co. Joeysson Socks - £12.50 5. Grenson William Vibram Brogues £195.00 6. Han Kjobenhavn Timeless Clip-On £125.00 37

7. Sandqvist Veiron Wallet - £45.00 8. Oliver Spencer Twin Stripe Tee - £65.00 9. Spiel Magazine Issue 3 - £free 10. Nudie Jeans Co. Thin Finn Mid Worn Indigo Jeans - £ 115.00

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11. Suit Earl Jacket - £85.00

The Edit

Good For All Seasons?

By James Robb

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The Essential The Basic Tee

By James Robb

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40 A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

The Portfolio

Christabel Jay (b.1988) is a freelance photography specialising in areas such as documentary, portraiture and photojournalism.

Originally from the county of Bedfordshire, Christabel attended the University of Lincoln where she studied a degree in Contemporary Lens Media. Her icons vary from environmental photographer Arnold Newman, documentarian Constantine Manos and the stunning works by ‘The Bang Bang Club’...”

E-Mail: christabel.jay@gmail.com Twitter: www.twitter.com/cjayphoto

The Portfolio A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

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weaversdoor.com

As the idiom rightly says ‘it’s what’s in the inside that counts’ so when we got the chance to see inside the original Grenson factory where the Northampton Master Shoemakers have been crafting the finest quality of gentleman’s shoes using the Goodyear welt construction method since 1895. It’s been a factory visit I’ve been threatening to make with the lovely ladies at the Grenson factory for quite a while, so when I spoke to our now good friend Miss Christabel Ray it was through the camera lense of Christabel’s visit to the Grenson Factory on Queen street in the heart of the thriving shoe business that got a brilliant insight into the behind the scenes of the Northampton Shoemakers.

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Christabel visited the Grenson Factory as part of her University degree studying Contemporary Lens Media where she was able to spend time in the Factory seeing all the manufacturing processes first hand, interacting with the workers to get a great insight into the stages and people who a behind the Goodyear welted shoes we present to our customers in our Liverpool store and online.

A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

How did the visit to grenson factory come about?

Throughout my final year at university we were encouraged to be completely independent with our work, with the occasional bit of advice aside. I’d been interested with the idea of the production and the method behind shoe making, rather than the finishing result of the product. Northamptonshire has always been at the pinnacle of shoe production for several years, shipping products all over the world.

I wanted to document a ‘behind the scenes’ project within shoe manufacturing and having contacted a number of companies, and in doing so Grenson made this body of work possible.

How did you get into photography?

Through sheer embarrassment that I wouldn’t be good at anything else… (Don’t put that in, it’s a joke). It’s a difficult question to answer, which is probably why I made a joke. I like the idea that no day is ever the same when someone has a camera with them.

The Portfolio

Do you have any icons when it comes to your work, be it in photography or another art form?

My biggest icon is Arnold Newman, an environmental

photographer who has shot the likes of Marilyn Monroe, John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, Woody Allen and one of his most famous images – convicted former Nazi slave labour boss, Alfried Krupp.

Constantine Manos is another inspiration and the work by photographers from The Bang Bang Club; whom documented the apartheid period in South Africa between 1990 – 1994.

What do you look for when your taking a photograph, is there a certain moment your waiting for?

When I visit the set of a shoot or a location there are moments which I look for, however often it’s just when your subject is comfortable in a position or doesn’t even notice you and I think that’s when you, as a photographer are something else - a part of the furniture or a fly on the wall.

Did you know much about grenson and they’re rich English heritage before the visit to the factory?

The name of the company had been mentioned along with Crocket & Jones and Church & Co. by a member of Northampton’s County Council.

I had emailed them asking for details on manufacturers and possible contacts as well to help make my request seem more direct rather than just a small email here and there.

The Portfolio A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

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The Portfolio

A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

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The Portfolio

Definitely the workers within their environment, hands down. They were very approachable and it seemed with a lot of them I had an understanding, if they didn’t want their photo taken then it wasn’t an issue. However, if they gave me their consent I’d made sure I showed them the image and if they didn’t like then I’d start again. Simple. Documentary and portraiture is what drives me within the medium of photography, I like the spontaneity of it all.

Did you get to speak to the workers at the factory?

Did they say how they found working in the factory?

A fair few praised the factory’s willingness to stay put, despite today’s financial climate. Grenson has been making shoes since 1866 and within the factory walls workers are still using some of the original equipment and following the original methods to create the perfect pair.

From speaking from the workers, did you get a feel for what it’s like to be apart of the grenson family?

I got to know a few of the workers and got a sense of how it’s more like a community, the factory couldn’t function without the workers and the workers couldn’t live without the factory.

Grenson have recently brought out a beautiful womens collection based on the brilliant mens collection, have you seen any?

I have seen! Very excited for Grenson pioneering shoes for females. I particularly like the Brogues known as ‘Martha’ – some very pretty designs and the attention to detail is exceptional.

Is there a certain style that has taken your fancy?

I quite like the suede pair in the ‘Martha’ range of Brogues.

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I can imagine the skilled men and women who work at the factory are more like a

The majority of workers and member of staff had worked there for a number of years and it was quite intriguing listening to their tales of the factory and it’s history.

The building itself is a stunning piece of history; every room, person, shoe and flaw held some story. The people were very friendly and came across as a kind of community.

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I was pretty much free to roam the factory and in doing so spoke to a lot of the workers.

family than a workforce?

A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

Did you find photographing the factory itself most enjoyable or the behind the scenes and the workers day to day goings on?

The Portfolio

A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

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The Portfolio A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

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The Portfolio

A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

48 #christabel jay #grenson #northampton

The Portfolio A visit to the Grenson factory

By Christabel Jay

What was your favourite photograph?

The project as a whole, I wouldn’t be able to pick a favourite as I take pride in them all. However, if I were to pick one single image then it would have to be of the female worker with her red apron, brown tshirt and the masks of shoes surrounding her.

What was your highlight of the visit to the grenson factory?

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There was no particular highlight, and it was more the one visit. It was a privilege to witness such a hidden art, and the people were friendly and enthusiastic about my project, which made me feel terribly relaxed. Too relaxed at points, where I’d just gawp at number of Brogues and Loafers.

Depending on where my career takes me, if it’s with my Masters Degree then I might venture to Africa. If not, then I’d very much like to go travelling, particularly around the USA, starting with a documentary project on Route 66.

If you have any enquiries with regards to the photographs featured or would like to see more we are sure Christabel would be happy to show you more of her photography, simply contact her on (email:) christabel. jay@gmail.com. We would like to thank Christabel again for allowing us to share her photography and skills in the Weavers Door journal and for being a kind spirit.

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Have you got any projects in the pipeline we can look forward to?

50 A mans best friend: The Brogue

By Jay Bagley & Tom Mahamotho

The Edit

Birth of the brogue, modern brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Scotland and Ireland that was created using untanned leather with perforations that allowed water to drain.

The word “brogue” was first used to describe a form of outdoor, country walking shoe in the early twentieth century.

At that time the brogue was not considered to be appropriate for other occasions, social or business. As times have changed we know that the ‘brogue’ is first choice for all occasion’s business or pleasure.

This shows that the brogue has had a steady progression over the years and has had to earn its high status.

From an admirer of the brogue, who unfortunately hasn’t purchased a pair yet but intends to in the near future. I believe that it’s a shoe not everyone can respect on first impression, people shy away as the shoes are so unique. My personal experience so far in footwear consisted of trainers, until I was introduced to the brogue.

They have made me mature, not just my taste in clothes but

also as a person, now my perspective on heritage culture has changed completely. This is because they have a story behind them and have shown me how you can integrate them with you own style.

It’s the fact that two individuals on each end of the spectrum can be wearing the same pair of brogues and they will still look amazing, this is what made me come to love this shoe.

of person to truly appreciate the heritage and craftsmanship behind them. After having my brogues for almost a year now I have definitely found out that they can be wore in many different ways if you open your mind and allow them to reach their potential. People have now started to realize just what the brogue is and they are now starting to respect that it is more than a shoe; I can honestly say since Now coming from somebody I have bought my brogues who has a pair of I haven’t looked back. brogues, my journey with the shoe has been Finally I can say a long drawn out one, that the brogue is a but definitely worth it. lifestyle it commands Growing up in a culture respect, makes people dominated by trainers stand up and notice it was hard to escape who you are. Only the that way of life, being other day I was walking one who has always through my sixth form been different I have where the teachers always been interested barely have any time in what people would for you outside of class as unusual and class, I was wearing my not fashionable in Grenson Archie brogues, the public eye. When my teacher seen this I eventually found from a good 20 yards the brogue I knew my away, stopped waited true calling had come, for me to walk down the and had managed to corridor, held the door successfully mature open for me and subtly and keep my dignity eyed up the shoes, and through a tough time of complemented them, I people jumping on the think that says it all. bandwagon.

It’s not just the At first, due to being individual that matures so young the first for the good; the shoes impressions on my shoes only get better with was good, but one I age. anticipated, as it takes a certain kind

British clothing. They have joined heritage brands such as Gloverall and Grenson which combined, now provide a huge market of British designed and in some cases, British made clothes.

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So I believe there are three things to consider when buying your next item of clothing.

Whether it is a t-shirt or your Winter coat.

Just have a look where it’s made. Just think you could be giving your money to a British company, getting quality for that money and you probably live on the same island as the fella who made it.

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Even in terms of high fashion Britain is making a come back on the world stage.

For decades people have looked to Italy for brands such as Prada or Armani. We are now seeing a return to the English gentleman look and the incredibly dapper Savile Row. Burberry has also gone through a huge transition under Christopher Bailey. The classic trench coat has been restored to it’s former glory and finds itself on most sartorial wishlists the world over. E Tautz under Patrick Grant is also finding itself in the biggest stores around the globe. If you hear Mr. Grant talking about his brand there is a continual reference to where the clothes are made. It makes you feel as if you can go and talk to the person who hand stitched your jumper or was responsible for the shine on your shoes.

M.I.E. Made In England

By John Towner

It seems to be fast becoming a selling point. People are looking for where things are produced.

However, there is hope.

It is possibly to do British heritage brands with there not being are making a comeback. as much money around Brands like Barbour and and people want better Baracuta have updated quality for what they’re their catalogues with spending. Or perhaps, modern silhouettes and there is an emergence of a realisation that a lot of clothes out younger British brands there are made cheaply starting to become a and sold expensively. force on the world Also, it seems for many stage. Take Folk and customers, the closer to YMC for example. They home the better. are British companies.

They produce well made Just a thought, but goods that have British imagine this on a mass heritage roots. This scale. If we bought our means that by buying food and clothes from their products you British companies would are buying into the we be better off? If British economy as well you buy your coffee from as buying quality.

Starbucks who does it go Brands such as these to? It’s an American and Universal Works company. However buying have given new life to

from an independent coffee chain it is most likely going to a British man or woman who is likely to spend that money in Britain.

Another example is buying your food from huge supermarkets going to the smaller, one off shops means giving your money to someone who is going to spend in Britain.

Anyway, enough of the politics...

The Edit

For too long British clothes have been overlooked by British people. There are queues outside Hollister, groups of lads are walking round wearing the American Apparel-Vans uniform and people are still paying over the odds for Italian-designed, poorly made trainers.

52 Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

Styled By

Grenson Sid Alpine Brogues - £195.00 *Flowering Jasmine Arch Tea - £3.50

*Hand tied flowering tea... blooming delicious.

Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

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54 Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

Styled By

Mr. Hall wears: Suit Earl Work Jacket - £85.00 Suit Beck T-Shirt - £39.99 HANK Camo Pocket Square - £20.00

Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko 55

Mr. Hall wears: Edwin Japan ED-55 Jeans in Glover Wash - £129.99 Redwing 6” Moc Toe Work Boot - £229.00

10 56 Location: The Brink First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Lee Juszczenko Fleming

Styled By The Place

Mr. Maddox wears: Shades Of Grey Sailor Sttriped Crew Neck Sweater - £89.99 Shades Of Grey Short Sleeve Henley T-Shirt - £45.00 Carhartt Unit Bermuda Shorts - £59.99

Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko 57

Mr. Maddox wears: Superga 2750 Canvas Pump - £39.99 Han Kjobenhavn Wolfgang Sunglasses - £105.00 Sandqvist Roald Backpack - £125.00

Styled By

Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

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Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko 59

Mr. Maddox wears: Carhartt Slash Sweatshirt - £69.99 Carhartt Release Shirt - £64.99 Carhartt Bermuda Shorts - £59.99 Superga 2750 Canvas Pump - £39.99 *Assam Breakfast Tea - £3.95

*The fantastic everyday English cuppa... and not just for breakfast time.

Styled By

Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

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Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko 61

Mr. Hall wears: Norse Projects 5 Panel Cap - £45.00 Norse Projects Anton Oxford Shirt - £89.99 Oliver Spencer Travel Jacket - £275.00 Dockers Flat Front Shorts - £59.99 Grenson Sid Alpine Brogues - £195.00 Assam Breakfast Tea - £3.95

62 Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

Styled By

Grenson Sid Alpine Brogues - £195.00 *Flowering Jasmine Arch Tea - £3.50

Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko 63

Norse Projects 5 Panel Cap - £45.00 Han Kjobenhavn Wolfgang Sunglasses - £105.00 *LEAF Homemade Chocolate Brownie - £2.50 LEAF Homemade Chocolate & Courgette Cake - £2.50

*”The best chocolate brownie ive had for a long, long time...”

Mr. Maddox

#styledby #leafteabar #joejuszczenko

10 64 Location: The Brink First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Lee Juszczenko Fleming

Styled By The Place

Mr. Maddox wears: Dockers Long Sleeve Button Down Oxford Shirt - £59.99 Knitted Polka Dot Tie - Stylists Own Han Kjobenhavn Wolfgang Sunglasses - £105.00 Nudie Jean Thin Finn Jeans Mid Worn Indigo - £115.00 Grenson Finley Suede Gibson Shoes - £175.00

Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

To Becky and the LEAF staff.

We would like to thank you all for letting us photograph this Styled By feature upstairs in the tea shop.

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Styled By

Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

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Styled By Location: First Floor, Leaf Tea Bar

By Joe Juszczenko

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The Weavers

Friends of Weavers Door

By Oliver Smith

68 #teamweaver #mumptown #friends

The Weavers Friends of Weavers Door

By Oliver Smith

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weaversdoor.com

70 Footballs Smartest Managers

By Ciaran Skinner

Dug-Out, Rig-Out

Arsene Wenger -

Roberto Mancini -

Pep Guardiola -

Leonardo Araújo -

Not many would expect to see maverick Wenger in this article but his understated style and elegance certainly reflects in his sides style of play. Many parallel’s can be drawn as with his stubbornness and reluctance for change, however he knows what suits him and he sticks to it. His blue and tightly knotted burgundy tie combo has graced the lush green grasses of Highbury and The Emirates and doesn’t seem to be going anytime soon. Having said that, he might want to ditch his inescapable bubble coat, easily mistaken for a sawn off sleeping bag and the Michelin Man.

As cliché as it sounds, it’s true, the Italians do it best when it comes to style. Our second young and successful manager brings an icecool look to the sideline.

Neighboring Manchester City manager Roberto Mancini sets the standard of the Premier League in terms of suaveness and sophistication, gracing his white perimeter of said technical area with his customary trench coats and spotless appearance.

Impeccably groomed, it’d be no surprise if he were the one spending the most time in front of the dressing room mirror.

Many studies have been taken out to see if there is any correlation in what you wear and your performance in the workplace. A prime example of the hypothesis sits here with now exBarcelona Manager Josep Guardiola. Taking all the elements of smart, simple layering and seemingly a firm fan of a good fitting suit and sharp white shirt, nothing better.

Not many can or will walk away with their head held high from one of Europe’s elite at the age of 41.

I’m still not quite sure how this man has managed to make the move from Milan to Internazionale alive, meanwhile his slick, just got out of bed hair has safely made it to our Journal. Leonardo is a mothers favourite, casual black suits assisted with a timeless tie and white shirt accommodates is commanding, tall, appearance on the touchline despite only being 5ft9.

To conclude, before this becomes more of a lovein than it already is, there is sadly no place for the not so special glossy gilets that the ‘Special One’ has been sporting this season, and if you’ve not gathered I’m rather stubborn and I don’t like him. Nor do the caps and copa’s seen on chief meff Tony Pulis, even if they’re the best football boots out there.

The Edit

Following a recent conversation with a friend of mine, we have started describing our outfits, by way of a fivea-side football team.

It’s difficult to explain so I shall give you an example, using the outfit that I am wearing right now.

I am gracing my feet with a pair of Adidas Gazelle OG trainers They’re a staple classic. Stood the test of time. Been around for ages, and don’t appear to be going anywhere anytime soon. They go on my feet regularly, and always seem do the job well. It’s a rare occasion that I leave the house without them, and there has to be a damn good reason.

With them being suede, torrential rain would

be like an injury, so that’s the only reason for me not to choose them. They’re what I call my Xavi shoes.

Over the tee, I am wearing a One True Saxon hoody. It’s another staple, british piece.

Nothing fancy. I don’t wear it for a Sunday My lower half is kept best, however it can modest with a pair of scrub up alright, and Edwin ED-55 jeans. with the right pieces These Asian classics around it, can look are the choice that I decent enough in any just put them on without outfit. It’s my Scott even thinking. On the Parker. occasions I opt away from them, I am usually On my head, much to left wondering why, and the distaste of some, regret the decision. is a Mitchell and Ness They are neat, tidy, snapback. It’s a hat impossible to not rate that’s done really well highly and last longer in America, and has than most others. They been around for years, are the denim equivalent and seemingly going to Park Ji-Sung. nowhere. Admittedly it’s not often I wear The T-shirt that I am it, but when I do, wearing right now is it gets noticed and the ‘More Than Just A complimented. If David Game’ design from 80s Beckham were a hat…

Casuals. It’ s sizing is bizarrely big for a By now you will probably small. The provocative grasp the idea of the print on the front will slightly immature, but be liked by some, hated rather addictive, game by many. It’s blue, and of five-a-side, and I love it. I call it Tim may well be wondering Cahill. which football player

your winter coat can represent, or which goalkeeper you can rename as a Northern Boys Club t-shirt.

Something to take into consideration, is your fixtures. Do you really want to exhaust your latest Scandinavian signing of a Suit jacket, on mundane trips to ASDA? Especially, if you have a big away game in Manchester at the weekend. Will overplaying your Tim Howard Red Wing shoes cost you on your mates stag do down in London next week?

Fashion-A-Side

By Alex Bentley

Football and fashion are two very different things, that for many of us go hand in hand.

Treat your wardrobe like a football team, and not only will it be fun (if rather daft, admittedly), it will help your clothes last a full season, without relying on the reserve side for backup.

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72 Footballs Smartest Managers

By Ciaran Skinner

Dug-Out, Rig-Out

Ciaran Skinner Lee Fleming John Towner Jay Kidd Layth Safar

Weavers Door 22-7 Spiel Magazine Attendance 3 Everton Valley

Paul Gleeson Daniel Byrne Chris Pickering Mike Cole-Wilkin Terry Roberts

The 5-a-side series constitutes the staff of Weavers Door featuring and promoting our friends over the medium of football.

Many of you that have been in to the shop will have picked up an edition of Spiel Magazine. For those that haven’t Spiel is a football and culture magazine based here in Liverpool but is distributed around Manchester, Leeds, Sheffield and London. Dan, Editor, tells us you’ll find “The best and most interesting things without limiting it geographically.” Offering a more global view on the game, with the bonus of great print work, superb illustrations and it costs not even a pound.

We had the pleasure of playing friends Spiel Magazine up at Everton Valley a couple of months ago on a bitter Tuesday night. The debutants started well with goals from ponytailed Kidd and Skinner whilst opponents Spiel Magazine shared the majority of the ball yet couldn’t keep attempts on goal under the meter high crossbar. The pattern continued through the 60 minutes of competition, highlights coming from Fleming’s only goal proficiently executed off his knee, then shin, then big toe.

The Place The Brink

By Lee Fleming

Ciaran Skinner Jay Kidd John Towner Layth Safar Ronnie Kerwin Anthony Kidd

Weavers Door 16-17 Santa Chupitos Attendance 2 Everton Valley

Matthew Farrell Bryn Jones James Hall Daniel White Ian Hughes

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I think it’s more than fair to say that the dark cocktail bar has gathered momentum and deservedly so. Mavericks in the game, Santa Chupitos is precisely named meaning “Saints of Little Drinks” offering a vast selection of fun and inventive cocktails from a number of liqueurs, spirits and self crafted infusions including drinks topped with fireballs or infamously served in milk bottles.

There was weeks and months of slurred build up and post match raillery over our favourite Liverpool bar top, Parr Street’s Santa Chupitos. The opponents turned up organised in a matching kit and that’s parallel with how they performed. Weavers Door struggled to break down the back four of the cocktail bar conducted by alice banded Hughes. It couldn’t be said likewise, defensive mistakes were plentiful whilst Santa Chupitos attacked. Santa’s found themselves in command throughout the match with at least a couple of goals in hand yet the game was continuously competitive and at times intense with rash challenges from Skinner on Hall especially. Time ran out for a Weavers come back, the best team won, just.

Santa’s new sister bar Salt Dog Slim’s has recently opened so get yourselves down for a chilli hot dog and a bucket of ale. Good news for the Weavers 5-a-side team, who might just get the chance for revenge.

Mr. Towner wears: Barbour Tokito Mount Shirt (Gore Windstopper) £399.00 Dockers D0 Chino £79.99

The Shoot

The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

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Grenson Archie Vibram Brogue Shoes £199.00

The Shoot The Old Bank Building

By John Towner 75

Mr. Towner wears: Folk Printed Elbow Patch Shirt Japanese Chambray £129.99 Folk Engineered Stripe Tee £59.99 Sandqvist Uno Laptop Backpack £100.00

The Shoot

The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

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The Shoot The Old Bank Building

By John Towner 77

Mr. Towner wears: Universal Works Scout Anorak £215.00 Carhartt Sid Chino Pants £79.99 Grenson Fred Vibram Boots £225.00

78 The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

Mr. Towner wears:

The Shoot

Norse Projects x Elka Elka Parka Raincoat £180.00 Norse Pojects Anton Oxford Shirt £89.99 Dockers Flat Front Shorts £59.99 Grenson William Vibram Suede Shoes £ 195.00

The Shoot

The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

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The Shoot

The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

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The Shoot The Old Bank Building

By John Towner 81

Mr. Towner wears: Gloverall Short Jacket £185.00 Oliver Spencer Twin Stripe Tee £65.00 Carhartt Sid Chino Pants £79.99 Folk Skynard Lanyard £45.00

The Shoot

The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

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The Shoot

The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

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The Shoot

The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

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The Shoot The Old Bank Building

By John Towner

Penfield Gibson Jacket £115.00 Folk Folded Pocket Shirt £110.00 Dockers Alpha Khaki £85.00 Superga Classic 2750 Tennis Pumps £39.99 Han Kjobenhavn Timeless Clip-On Sunglasses £125.00

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Mr. Towner wears:

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Shop & Studio: Swedenborgsgatan 3 (the corner) SE-118 48 Stockholm Sweden Tel: +46 733 26 04 05

The Interview

Sandqvist Bags

By Lee Fleming

E-Mail: service@sandqvist.net

The Interview Sandqvist Bags

By Lee Fleming

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Would you be so kind as to give us a quick overview of your role in Sandqvist Bags as a brand?

Anton Sandqvist, founder, CEO.

The Interview

Sandqvist Bags

By Lee Fleming

How did Sandqvist Bags as a concept come about? Was this your introduction into the fashion industry?

I was lacking creativity in my job as account manager and at my freetime I started to play around making some different products.

I made some lamps and furniture before I stitched the first bag. In the beginning it was really just to have something creative things to do. I have always been a handy person, building and sewing things all since I was a kid. Then when people started to ask about this bag I made I realized that there weren’t many good bags for men in the market and that’s how Sandqvist bags started.

Tell us a little about yourself, where are you from, who would you say have been major influences on you, in terms of mind set?

Me and Daniel – my younger brother, we share the design job at Sandqvist– both live in Stockholm and are very much into outdoor life such as hiking, skiing and fishing. It sounds like a cliche, but mostly we just make the kind of bags we want to use ourselves. I don’t really know any other way to do it. At least not if you put your own name on it.

Can you describe your typical day to day process?

We are a really small company and we just do what needs to be done really. Everything from designing bags, finding inspiration for the coming seasons, work with the producers, quality improvements, sales, fashionshows, photoshoots, lookbook, PR, marketing.

The Interview Sandqvist Bags

By Lee Fleming

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The Interview

Sandqvist Bags

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Daniel: The backpack.

“Stig”. Perfect for the one day flyfishing trip.

There is just enough The best part is to see space for some gear, an people use our products. extra shirt, a couple A beautifully worn bag, of beers, a pipe, and a used every day. bottle of whisky.

Sandqvist Bags

By Lee Fleming 91 weaversdoor.com

What are the main Sebastian: The bum bag, strengths of you and the “Kåre”. The perfect Sandqvist team? summer night in the city bag. And very good for I Don’t know. We cycling. have very different backgrounds, im a By glancing at the mechanical engineer, Sandqvist bags and Daniel and Sebastian accessories it seems like you enjoy nature started and runned a Free fashion-popculture and the outdoors, do you enjoy any activities in magazine. I think that your spare time? and the combination of love of great materials, We really like the quality, vintage and of course fashion is our outdoors, everything stregth. from Skiing, fishing, hiking, sailing, With regards to the climbing. We also like design ethos, what is motorbikes, snowmobiles the core values that you and old cars. look to create within Am I correct in thinking your designs? the Sandqvist journey A timeless style, has been a natural functionality and process? durability. If I get to see youngsters 20 years Definitely. We have been from now use vintage working really hard and Sandqvist bags they invested everything we found in their parents earned in the business wardrobe, then I will be and new bags. It started happy! as a hobby and I quit my job and started working Do you know where you full time in November wish to take the brand 2010, and Daniel Started in terms of design or is working full time in does it just happen as February this year. if when it just feels Sebastian is still right? working full time at an advertising agency.

We have a good picture of what we want to Can you treat us to an do as a next step insight into what to when it comes to the expect from Sandqvist designs. There should bags for the near be a balance between future? surprising the customers and offer what they want In may we proudly right now. present our first bum bag! And the Herr Judit What is your favourite bag in pale red. For the style out of the current coming season we will Spring / Summer 2011 introduce a new line of collection? bags with more function, but still very classic.

Anton: “Gudrun”, the Like us on facebook totebag. The best bag for more insights! We for the lazy days at the regularly publish a lot beach of Långholmen in of upcoming ideas there.

Stockholm.

The Interview

What’s your favourite part about owning a clothing brand?

92 Finding the perfect jean

By Patrick Humphries

The Denim

Yes, denim has a history, and a rich one, I’m sure. French, I think, in the 19th century? Miners, factory workers. Something along those lines. But we’ve reached a point with denim where all that blue collar “heritage” is no longer relevant.

Jeans are now a fixture of the white collar uniform. Jim Stark wore them when he defeated Buzz Gunderson in the chickie run, and world never looked back. Reappropriated by the masses for their comfort and durability, jeans aren’t ubiquitous — they’re universal.

They allow us both to blend into the crowd and to express our individuality, and more than any other piece of clothing, they’re felt and experienced. They‘re sturdy and dependable, and the acquisition of a perfect pair can spark an emotional journey.

The age of mass consumption brought confusion to the denim world. Fashion went through a kind of identity crisis, and bad designers and marketers cooked up new styles consumers didn’t know they needed. A mess of washes, embellishments and fits that puzzled the average consumer, and became an obstacle for those with refined taste. In this postage, however, where quality is beginning to be sought over quantity, and the taste of the general public is improving, there’s hope for denim yet. Brands such as A.P.C., Edwin and Nudie cater to more aesthetically-minded consumers. A fair few others, though small

and obscure, are also making noble efforts for denim. As a stylish male, there’s only one jean (maybe two or three at advanced level) you should concern yourself with: the plainest, darkest, bluest you can find. Blue jeans, also known as dungarees or, among fashion elitists, “denims” — the kind worn

by Paul Newman, with camp mocs, tube socks and a deep cuff, and

by Andy Warhol, with a rumpled Oxford and a repp tie — are a true mark of cool and the epitome of utilitarian design. They’re the cornerstone of a sophisticated casual wardrobe and, without a doubt, the most versatile piece a man can own.

tastefully, with as few embellishments as possible, and manufactured to the highest standards, using techniques that require skilled workers and antique equipment. The most recognisable mark of quality — though not the main indicator — on a pair of these jeans is the selvedge — derived from “self edge” — which, without going into unnecessary detail, appears as a coloured line (often red and white) in place of an overlock stitch on the outseam. If you choose to invest, the end result is a beautifully marked jean that, if sized right, fits like a glove.

match). However, if your proportions are less balanced, such as if you have skinny arms and a skinny torso, but thicker, more athletic thighs, your jeans must be slim so as to balance out the rest.

A straight leg is the safest choice, and the style most men go for, but today’s silhouette is the tapered fit. To achieve this, your jeans should be straight through the thigh and knee, then, half-way down the calf, tapered to a relatively narrow hem.

You also need to consider leg length.

Most raw jeans come with extra-long inseams, and many people turn Sizing can be tricky. up the hems or roll It’s a science, and may them several times; Although available take a few attempts to this can look affected rinsed, go for the get right. Raw jeans and sloppy, however, unwashed kind — known expand even more than so you may want to as raw denim or dry the average cotton consider having the legs denim — which come stiff trouser, so sizing-down shortened by a tailor as a board, full of is the rule to go by. or dry cleaner. Some indigo dye, the idea The first objective is scoff at the idea of being you break them in the have your jeans fit altering jeans, but a yourself through hard snugly in the waist. visit to the tailor can wear. The jeans develop If you can only just be profoundly beneficial. a natural patina over fasten the top button Inseam length and the time; “contrast fades” when you first try them amount of break (when that form at the various on, chances are they’ll your jeans hit your bends in your legs, the stretch out to fit shoes) is a matter of depth of the contrast perfectly. When it comes personal preference, dependent on your to shape and overall but proportion must, chosen washing method. fit, there are two again, be taken into Authorities on this silhouettes to consider: account. A slight break subject advise that you straight or tapered, is the standard, and a wear your jeans hard and in varying degrees of perfectly acceptable often for at least six slimness. Fit is all look, however, a cropped months before letting down to proportion. ankle with no break is them touch water, with Body types vary, and cleaner and more rakish. denim geeks/victims your clothes should But beware, most raw of the hardest core serve to harmonise your jeans are finished with swearing by a neverparticular dimensions. a chain stitch on the wash ritual. Unless you If you’re thin and hem which can only be belong to this cult, narrow all the way performed by special I suggest you find a down, for example, then machines, so don’t be method that suits your you can get away with disappointed if your needs — and appreciation a fit at either end of jeans come back looking for hygiene. The best the slimness scale slightly off. examples of these (providing the rest jeans are designed of your clothes fit to

The Denim Finding the perfect jean

By Patrick Humphries

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Every first Tuesday of the month we get a visit from our good friend Master Barber Cass and his pop-up barber shop.

Our very own resident travelling barber, hair stylist, groomer and agony uncle. He offers our local customers a gentlemans hair cut, traditional wet shave or both.

The Cut

Our Top 5 Barnets

By Master Barber Cass

To find out more, or to book an appointment please contact: E-Mail: info@weaversdoor.com Tel: +44 (0) 151 236 6001

How: To achieve this cut I’d be fading from a two into a one on the back and sides, over directing from the centre parting to the sides, keeping the fullness on the corners in aid to give lift and allow hair to swept back. The importance of chopping into the top gives a raised effect to consequently creating more movement to play with. Finishing around the ears is a must! Shaping around the ears and neckline and compliment with a tapered neck.

Illustrations by Josh Parkin Typography by David Maguire

A 1950’s influenced classic cut with a modern day twist, THE RICK would stand out in any boardroom meeting and would definitely feel right at home in Don Drapers office. A neat appearance around the ears gives a strong aesthetic and would certainly turn the ladies heads.

The Cut

The Rick:

Styling:

The tools I would use to achieve THE RICK are a Parlux compact 3200 Hairdryer, Mr Natty’s Clay and Kevin Murphy session hair spray.

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Tools:

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Firstly, towel dry your hair, then push hair back from your forehead so it stands straight and blast with medium heat to create the height followed by a cool blast to lock it in. Rub a 5pence coin amount of hair product into the palms of your hands, working this thoroughly into your hands before running it through your hair to create THE RICK. For longer locks, use hair spray for a all day hold.

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The Jimmy D: Inspired by the Broadwalk Empire character ‘Jimmy’ Darmody, THE JIMMY D is a head turner of cuts that you have to be confident in wearing which is exactly the case for one of my Pop Up Barber Shop regular’s, Ryan, who walked in one day and fancied a change, this is the cut he loosely asked for and was brave enough to let me take reign and give him this punk rock undercut with a classic finish.

How: I created a horse shoe like section, securing the hair inside and got to work on the harsh undercut, clippering the back sides up to the horseshoe section with the desired size (I’d recommend fading from a half to start up to a two) then release the hair and texture the fall, thinning out the bulk of the hair so it sits flatter to achieve a smooth/slick finish.

Our Top 5 Barnets

By Master Barber Cass

Styling: Firstly, towel dry your hair, then push it back and add a cool blast with the hair dryer to lock the look into place. Rub a 20 pence coin amount of hair product into the palms of your hands, working this thoroughly into your hands before running it through your hair to create THE JIMMY D.

The Cut

Tools: I would use to achieve THE JIMMY D are a Parlux compact 3200 Hairdryer, Mr Natty’s Paste, finished off with a Kevin Murphy texture master.

Inspired on a post war military crew cut of the 1950’s with a classic twist keeping length on top to give a clean, regimented short back and sides with something to play around with on top.

I would clipper the back and sides to a clear horse shoe section just before the bend of the head shape. Shaping the ears into a rounded off square neck gives a military finish which is what im after in this cut. Moving on up to the top, centre parting to be over directed on to the sides, leaving as much length as possible.

Finishing off around the horse shoe section with texturing with scissors to blend in the perfect line break that once was.

Illustrations by Josh Parkin Typography by David Maguire

How:

The Cut

The Albert:

Styling:

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Firstly, towel dry your hair, then push hair back from your forehead so it stands straight and blast with medium heat to create the height followed by a cool blast to lock it in. Rub a 5 pence coin amount of hair product into the palms of your hands, working this thoroughly into your hands before running it through your hair to create THE RICK. For longer locks, use hair spray for a all day hold.

Tools:

weaversdoor.com

The tools I would use to achieve THE RICK are a Parlux compact 3200 Hairdryer, Mr Natty’s Pomade Wax and Kevin Murphy session hair spray.

The Benjamin: A weavers Door favourite when I arrive with my pop up barber shop. A softer cut, with a more natural aesthetic with 1940’s inspiration very much coming from the King himself, Elvis.

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How: This is a cut that doesn’t want to be harsh in any way so starting with a horse shoe like section, securing the hair inside the section and going left to right, razoring down the bulk of the section with a textured hand for a softer finish all around the guideline.

Centre parting to be overdirected into the sides and finish will a softer neckline for a tidy but neat finish..

The Cut

Our Top 5 Barnets

By Master Barber Cass

Styling: Firstly, towel dry your hair, then push hair back from your forehead so it stands straight and blast with medium heat to create the height followed by a cool blast to lock it in. Rub a 5 pence coin amount of hair product into the palms of your hands, working this thoroughly into your hands before running it through your hair to create THE BENJAMIN. Tools: The tools I would use to achieve THE BEN JAMIN are a Parlux compact 3200 Hairdryer, Mr Natty’s Paste and Kevin Murphy hair result lotion.

With inspiration drawn from one Mr James Dean, this is a looser, less structured, less coiffed take on the style icon’s barnet. It’s a cut that I do for one of my regulars who is at every Pop Up Barber Shop hence me naming it after him.

I’d look to clipper over comb from the bottom to the head bend and blending into the length of the top. Chopping into the corners of the hair to give a neat finish and texturing the top of the hair for a soft aesthetic and layered look. Finishing off with a neat shape up around the ears and neck. Job done!

Illustrations by Josh Parkin Typography by David Maguire

How:

The Cut

The Jay:

Styling:

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Firstly, towel dry your hair, then push hair back from your forehead so it stands straight and blast with medium heat to create the height followed by a cool blast to lock it in. Rub a 5pence coin amount of hair product into the palms of your hands, working this thoroughly into your hands before running it through your hair to create THE JAY. For longer locks, use hair spray for a all day hold.

Tools: The tools I would use to achieve THE JAY are a Parlux compact 3200 Hairdryer, Mr Natty’s Clay and Kevin Murphy powder puff.

weaversdoor.com

100 Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

The Tattoo Parlour

Mr. Williams wears: Fred Perry M600 Polo Shirt - £55.00 Carhartt Sid Chino Pants - £79.99 Grenson Sid Brogue Shoes - £195.00 Mr. Jones wears: Fred Perry Basket Weave Madras Shirt - £70.00 Edwin Japan ED-55 Burner Wash Jeans - £149.00 Grenson Archie Vibram Brogue Shoes - £199.00

The Tattoo Parlour Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

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The Tattoo Parlour

Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

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The Tattoo Parlour Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

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The Tattoo Parlour

Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

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The Tattoo Parlour Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming 105

Mr. Williams wears: Oliver Spencer Twin Stripe Tee - £65.00 Carhartt Sid Chino Pants - £79.99 Superga Classic 2750 Tennis Pumps - £39.99 Mr. Jones wears: Oliver Spencer Sailors Stripe Tee - £65.00 Dockers Flat Front Shorts - £59.99 Grenson Archie Vibram Brogue Shoes - £199.00

The Tattoo Parlour

Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

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The Tattoo Parlour Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming 107

Established in 1995 North of England’s offering custom and winning artists

Forever True is one of the premier tattoo studio’s, classic tattooing by award from around the world.

Owned and run by resident artist Richie Clarke, Forever True offers clients design ideas for many styles of tattoos no matter how large or small.

Forever True studio hosts many international guest artists throughout the year, who’s work can be viewed in the Guest Artists page and who’s dates will be announced on the Forever True blog and Facebook fan page.

Website: www.forevertruetattoo.co.uk Special Thanks to Ritchie for his support.

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Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

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The Tattoo Parlour Forever True Tattoo Styled by Lee Fleming

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110 Santa Chupitos Words: Ciaran Skinner Photography: Paul McOlloy

Nicely nestled away on the corner of Parr Street and Slater Street, sits one of Liverpool’s best kept secrets on the bar front. Santa Chupitos (or the saint of little drinks) is the brainchild of bartenders John Ennis and Matthew Farrell, offering finely curated cocktails and a intimate experience for the avid fans of the beverage. It’s one of the Weavers Door team’s favourite haunts for everything from a quiet cocktail on a school night to a epic night out. The size of bar is small but perfectly formed with a unbelievable array of spirits and a seasonal cocktail menu but more importantly the friendly bartenders are more than happy to offer a bespoke cocktail service, simply describe the kind of drink you want and he/she will do the rest. The decor is raw with exposed rustic brickwork, brushed floors and graffiti throughout which works perfectly in the dark, candle lit setting and it’s the closeness of both the front and back bar’s that make for a great atmosphere, with a feeling of having a well stocked bar in your living room Santa Chupito’s is a must go to on any night of the week, a local bar by local people for local people it’s our bar of choice. Enjoy.

The Bar

Weavers Door Recommends: 1. The Dirty Mexican 2. Five Dollar Shake 3. Passion Fruit Zombie

The Bar Santa Chupitos Words: Ciaran Skinner Photography: Paul McOlloy

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112 Santa Chupitos Words: Ciaran Skinner Photography: Paul McOlloy

The Bar

Where to find Santa Chupitos: 41 Slater Street Liverpool L1 4BX Tel: 707 6527 Twitter: @santachupitos Facebook: facebook.com/santachupitos

The Bar Santa Chupitos Words: Ciaran Skinner Photography: Paul McOlloy

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The Edit

Fashion-A-Side

By Alex Bentley

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Off The Wall

‘The Smiths’- ‘The Queen is Dead’…sort of.

As well as boasting drum loops that sound more like a street in Basra than a recording studio, this record features such bangers as ‘Bigmouth Strikes Again’, ‘Cemetery Gates’ and ‘500 Days of Summer’ heartbreaker ‘There is a Light That Never Goes Out’.

‘Bigmouth…’ opens with some of the most macabre lyrics “…I’d like to mash every tooth in your head…” coupled with a sickly-sweet, repetitious guitar to balance out the mayhem of the verse.

The song perhaps acts an apology to a lover after a break-up, as suggested by the lines “Sweetness, I was only joking when I said…” but in a slightly more exaggerated manner, no rational human being would wish for their loved one to be “bludgeoned in their bed” afterall!

Morrissey compares his crimes to those of ‘Joan of Arc’, also mentioned in the song as she burns at the stake! The crux of the song is indeed the word ‘Bigmouth’, we’ve all been there, and we’ve all said something with a cringevalue so high it causes our faces to shatter the next morning. Our ‘Bigmouth’s’, like Morrissey’s occasionally get the better of us, although I ask, nay, beg all readers not ‘mash anybody’s teeth in, ever! Morrissey wouldn’t, nor should you!

The penultimate song on the album, ‘There is a Light That Never Goes Out’, showcases Marr’s talent for composition and Morrissey’s supreme lyricism. The chorus, “If a double-decker bus crashes into us, to die by your side is such a heavenly way to die”, has the capacity to raise the roof in some of the most stubborn bars between groups of 40-somethings and most young sub-cultures.

Despite it’s graphic content, this ninth song of the epic ‘Queen is Dead’ LP acts as a fine tribute to a lover’s relationship. Of course the name of the song itself ‘There Is A Light That Never Goes Out’ could illustrate the flame of passion and love shared between a couple never being extinguished, regardless of death or separation.

If you haven’t had chance to discover this sterling, third studio album by ‘The Smiths’ yet, head to iTunes ASAP. Also, it should be worth pointing out, as is the case with anything musical considered to be awesome, ranging from ‘Sgt. Pepper’s’ to ‘Elvis Presley’, there is a conspiracy theory masquerading itself behind this record, a theory that apparently predicts Diana’s Death! Read into this what you will, however, I’m not one for conspiracy theories; the last one I heard was that ‘Elvis and 2Pac live in Hawaii’. Drunk ramblings, or terrifying truths, the choice is yours…

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I have, however, heard whispers, that a fraction of the good British public have listened to the soundtrack of this festive ad with frowned expressions, asking oneanother: “Have ‘The Smiths’, father’s, perhaps even grandfathers of that musical term we so frivolously throw around, ‘indie’, just allowed one of the biggest department stores in Britain to use a cover of one of their songs (“Please, Please, Please Let Me Get What I Want”)?”

“Have these Kings of antiestablishment given the goahead for their music to endorse; fancy coffee makers,

For those members of the public who are feeling slightly disillusioned after watching and indeed listening to this advert, this review is for you. For everyone else, come along for the ride, ‘The Queen Is Dead’ by ‘The Smiths’ released in the June of 1986 on ‘Rough Trade’ records is perhaps the greatest 37 minutes of music ever produced, in my humble opinion.

Following the sound-bite of a World War I song, ‘Take Me Back to Dear All Blighty’, performed by Cicely Courtneidge, ‘The Queen Is Dead’ quite literally erupts into your ear-drums with the ferocious sound of drums reminiscent of a War-Zone, causing every hair the back of your neck to stand up and salute the groans and vocals of Stephen Morrissey. Immediately, it’s clear to see this isn’t the kind of voice that rose to fame selling appliances to the middle-class. Although, let’s remember, time’s are getting hard, we’ve got the former ‘baddest rock-star in Britain’ selling butter!

AND…a bloke who’s consumed more narcotics than everyone who went to ‘Cream’ in the nineties, selling bloody car

insurance. Compared to these travesties, you ‘haters’ will have to agree; this is a mere hiccup in ‘The Smiths’ stellar career.

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So, we’ve all seen THAT ‘John Lewis’ Christmas advert!

Most of us, have turned to the person sitting next to us, also wearing the thickest jumper in their possession, also sweating due to the unbearable heat kicking out of our radiators during this time of year, and made a sort of ‘N’awww’ing sound. This sound is typically heard at Christenings and that time your Mum got a new dog and invited everyone over.

‘Onsies’, and the latest perfume from ‘that lass who shaved all her hair off the other year’?” Indeed, the slightly more hipster response may be “At least when the team on ‘Ferris Bueller…’ used this song, it maintained a certain degree of cool!”

The Smiths - The Queen Is Dead

By James Courtney

Every month, the fella’s instore and I will be picking another iconic album from Weaver’s Door’s feature wall to talk about in an article very similar to this. If you’re itching to have your favourite album reviewed, get in touch, or pop into the shop, we’ll see what we can do!

An Illustration of The Weavers Door Store by Josh Parkin and David Maguire

Fancy a chance to win yourself a Norse Projects x Elka raincoat Simply follow the next 3 steps: 1. Sign up to our newsletter on our homepage 2. Like us on Facebook 3. Follow us on Twitter

to contribute to issue 2 please contact info@weaversdoor.com

The best items from the best brands, purveyors of fine mens apparel for over 25 years.

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By Weavers Door

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No. 001

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