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Geneva: art & Nature a brief history
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A brief history A
French enclave (in fact, it has a 104-kilometre long border with France and is only joined to Switzerland by a four-kilometre space), Geneva has always been a strategic jewel, as it lies very close to a number of borders and countries. This enviable situation could be seen as early as Roman times, when Julius Caesar unsuccessfully tried to stop the Helvetii in their advance towards France. The Romans, who had held on to power in Geneva since the second century BC, after defeating the Allobroges (the first people to occupy the city), ceded it to the Burgundes in the fifth century, but they were subsequently defeated by the Frankish army. Charlemagne and the Counts of Burgundy, who had made Geneva the capital of the kingdom of Burgundy, gave way to a peaceful and lasting hegemony of the German Holy Roman Empire over Geneva in 1033.
Financial axis
The fifteenth century saw Geneva firmly established as an axis of European finance. Its geostrategic situation, a stable currency and the inestimable help of an influential church led to numerous bankers to settle in the city and for the population to grown considerably. This was so much so that French king Louis XI banned traders in his country from entering into commercial agreements with Genevans, who brazenly shifted their market towards Germans and Swiss.
The Calvinist Reform
GENEVA, Art & Nature Although first impressions might make you think that it is a cold and ostentatious city, it’s true to say that Geneva offers its visitors a mix of history, nature and gastronomy that make it a more than appetising destination, besides its perfect setting in the heart of Europe. Beyond the luxury cars and countless banks, Geneva is a tolerant, cosmopolitan and landscaped city with a lake as the ideal frame for your photos and the birthplace of Rousseau, the UN and the Red Cross, so you can discover a fundamental part of contemporary European history. Gazing at the impressive water jet from any point in the city, losing yourself in a backstreet in the historic quarter or savouring a restaurant while listening to a variety of accents completes a menu of attractions that won’t disappoint you. 1
A practical guide The city of Geneva, the second most important in Switzerland after Zurich and where the four national languages (primarily the official French, as well as German, Italian and Romanche) are spoken, lies at the mouth of Lake Leman on the Rodano river. The lake is the second largest freshwater lake in Europe (after Lake Balaton in Hungary). In turn, Geneva is encircled by mountains, formed by the Voirons, the Salève, the Vuache and the Jura. In comparison with the German part of the country, Geneva is not very industrialised, although it overcomes this obstacle with an excellent range of services (banks, multinationals, businesses and international agencies). In this guide, we will take you on a journey to the most outstanding sites of interest to visitors and we will offer a first impression of the city. We have selected everything you will need for an unforgettable French-Swiss weekend away. That’s why on the following pages we have lingered in certain parts of the city, at certain monuments and museums, leaving out other elements that require a much longer visit.
One year after the abolition of mass in the city, 1536 saw the start of the Reform, personified in Calvin. Geneva united with Freiburg and Berne, and refugees and Huguenots ignited the city’s engine, considerably fostering the various Genevan industries, especially in the field of clock making. In December 1602, the rich, ostentatious and by no means Catholic Geneva was attacked by the Savoyan army (with French troops and Spanish and Italian mercenaries) on the famous Night of the Escalade, an epic chapter that saw the Genevans emerge victorious. Until the French invasion of 1798, Geneva lived in the shadow of the internal confrontation between the aristocracy, who held governmental power, and the pleiad of descendants of the Huguenots. It was a confrontation that Napoleon took advantage of to take possession of the French-speaking city.
22nd canton
After Napoleon’s defeat, it was not long before Swiss troops took over the city, which became the 22nd canton of the Swiss Confederation in 1814, the penultimate to do so, just before the Jura canton. This union led to the statue of two women, Republic of Geneva and Helvetia, erected in the English Garden in the city. Led by James Fazy, Geneva approved its constitution and applied a policy of hospitality without rival anywhere in Europe, which led to the founding of the Red Cross in 1863. The stabbing of Empress Sissi by an anarchist in 1898 (she would die shortly after in a Geneva hotel), Lenin’s stay in the city as a political refugee and the founding of all manner of international institutions are just some of the brush strokes of the contemporary era of the Swiss city.
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Useful tips
Geneva is both a city and a Swiss commune, the capital of the Geneva canton. It is a rich and generous city of 180,000 inhabitants, which offers a number of attractions that place it in the highest positions in the ranking of cities according to quality of life, on a par with Vienna and Zurich. It is curious to see the number of French people who cross the border every weekday to go and work in Geneva. As a first impression, visitors can wander around the old quarters of Cité-centre and Saint Gervais and the lake, which gives a special charm to the city. Cosmopolitan Geneva is governed by the same time as the whole of Western
Europe, GMT + 1 hour. The climate is relatively good, with low temperatures in winter (an average of 2º C in January) and normal in summer (with temperatures a little lower than other Italian, Spanish or French cities, with an average 23ºC in July). In any case, there are no extreme temperatures in almost every month of the year. The best time of year we recommend for a visit to the French-Swiss city capital is spring. The currency you will need in Geneva, and throughout the rest of the Confederation, is the Swiss franc. Presently, 1 euro is worth 1.5 Swiss francs, although due to the proximity to the French border, a lot of
businesses accept euros (although you’ll lose out in the exchange). Going shopping in the city can work out expensive, although in this pricey but exclusive city, it’s worth checking out the shops selling clocks, jewellery, Davidoff cigars, scientific instruments and chocolates, where you’re bound to be seduced by everything you see. The majority of the famous boutiques and shops are found on the Rue du Rhône and the Rue du Marché. Prices usually go up slightly in summer, when more tourists visit the city. To get around in Geneva, it is much easier on foot or by public transport, as there are areas where parking is scarce and you’ll
end up leaving the car in an underground car park, which is normally a fairly expensive option. In any case, it’s a relatively manageable city to visit on foot, except for some routes which involve crossing the lake. The city is divided in two by the river, with a right bank on the north (Rive Droite) and a left bank (Rive Gauche). The city’s historic quarter is small, filled with narrow alleys and doorways that hide some very interesting interior courtyards and a range of attractions that we recommend you discover on foot. The institutions in Geneva have even provided the walking routes with panels, suitable for pedestrians, to calculate distances and not miss out on the best of the city. In any event, if you decide to get around by car, don’t forget that to be able to use the motorways in Switzerland, you need to buy avignette or pass to use the fastest roads (40 francs). Public transport in Geneva offers trams, buses and boats, part of the Unireso network (www.tpg.ch). There are numerous ticket sales points and there are currently six tram routes and more than 50 bus and trolley-bus routes, as well as a total of 12 buses running different roads at night. Generally speaking, it is a practical, efficient and very punctual service, which Genevans themselves recognise as being of high quality, so we recommend that you never forget to buy the ticket and
validate it, as otherwise it will be the locals themselves who will criticise your less than exemplary attitude. Tickets for all public transport are valid for any means and route and are valid for 60 minutes. A single ticket costs 2 francs (1.25 euros), but if you want a ticket for the whole of the canton of Geneva, you’ll have to pay between three and five francs (2nd or 1st class). You can get a pass or Geneva Transport Card for 24 hours, which will cost 10 francs, 48 hours for 20 francs, 72 hours for 30 francs, and from 35 francs, depending on the conditions and zones chosen, for a week-long pass. The timetables of most of the routes are between 5.30 am and 12 midnight. After that, you’ll need to catch a night bus (which stop every half-hour at every stop), which run between midnight and three or four in the morning. As for boats to cross the lake or to tour the different banks, you need to take the motor launches or mouettes (www.swissboat. com). There are different fares depending on the route and the quality of the boat chosen. They operate between nine in the morning and seven in the evening, and there are some motor launches on which you can use the same ticket as for the tram or bus. Don’t forget that many of the boat routes are cut during the winter. Another way of getting about the city
cheaply and ecologically is by bike. You can rent one at all the railway stations, on Place Montbrillant, at the Pâquis baths, at Place du Rhône and the Plainpalais esplanade. They are usually very cheap rentals (sometimes you just have to pay the deposit, which is around 40 to 50 francs), and the bikes are generally in good condition. Generally speaking, there are no problems if you want to get on another form of public transport (boat or tram) with your bicycle. It’s a pleasant city for a bike ride (there are numerous dedicated lanes) and you’ll come across more than a few Genevans doing the same. There’s no need to be too careful when you park as the high quality of life in the city and the civic sense of the Swiss mean that the likelihood of your bike being stolen is nil. Finally, as for taxis in Geneva, you can order them by phone, stop them in the street or pick one up at the more than 60 authorised stops in the city, the airport and the main railway station. It’s not worth warning of safety in the city, as with so many international organisations (over 200!) it’s regarded as a very safe city. The majority of shops are open between 9 in the morning and 6 in the evening. The similarly countless banks open between 8.30 am and 4.30 pm, and they don’t close at midday.
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Game and fish, with a French touch
Geneva’s gastronomy offers visitors a blend of various nationalities, like the population living in the city, although with a predominance of traditional and light French cuisine, a lot of fish and seafood dishes, and a menu accompanied by an excellent wine list. Some of the tasty specialities that you can try, besides the classic fondue if you go in winter, are the lobster carpaccio with Maussane oil, sirloin steak with foie gras, sea bass, salmon with sorrel, pheasant and roast lamb with potatoes and fine herbs. You can also go for Italian (pizzas made by Italians arriving in the city in the 1960s), German and Alsatian specialities, like sausages, or an onion, mushroom, ham and cream cake, or you can try a rather more exotic speciality, such as an Oriental, Mexican or Cuban restaurant of exquisite quality. Finally, two recommendations. You should check the restaurant opening times (for lunch, they open between 12 noon and 2 pm , while for dinner, you shouldn’t get there later than 8 pm) and remember that many of the restaurants in Geneva don’t open at the weekend. Don’t forget that it’s usual to round up the bill after eating and leave a tip (normally around 15%), providing the service has been satisfactory.
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Relevant zones La Grange
In this area of Geneva (on the Rive Gauche), another of the city’s great green enclaves, where you can enjoy the Rose Garden, which hosts the International Rose Competition in June. It is the perfect occasion to take a close look at the most beautiful roses in the world (they are displayed between sunrise and sunset). In the midst of a large landscaped area is a mansion, and just behind the mansion you can visit a Roman villa, an old farm and even a greenhouse, which, in the summer, acts as both a restaurant and a stage where plays are performed. If you haven’t had enough of nature, you can carry on strolling and breathing pure air in the Eaux-Vives park, where you’ll find hundred-year-old trees from a number of countries.
Carouge
Just ten minutes from the centre of Geneva is this little town, which is also a suburb of the city, which is why there’s always been some rivalry between the two shores . Declared a “City of National Importance”, it is separated from Geneva by the Arve river and is an example of post-mediaeval urban planning, a favourite for many Genevans for spending a pleasant Sunday. Built in the eighteenth century by architects from Turin and on the orders of the Duke of Savoy and King of Sardinia Victor Amadeus III, Carouge offers visitors a surprising Piedmont appearance, with a number of places for brunch and even a theatre that stages some interesting works. You can’t miss some private courtyards and gardens, surprising crafts shops, pleasant bars and restaurants and the city museum, which is in a small house built in 1789 by a master clock maker. You can easily get to Carouge by public transport.
Ariana
This suburb lies on Geneva’s right bank. The eponymous park is an immense green area that surrounds the Palace of the United Nations. You mustn’t miss the Ariana Museum, in the same park. It is a museum of ceramic, porcelain and glass, which boasts an exceptional collection of 20,000 art objects from seven centuries. The museum is an a Venetian neo-Renaissance style building, which has over the years become one of the leading museums in its speciality.
Pâquis Baths
If you take a lengthy walk by Lake Leman or Lake Geneva, you’ll reach the Pâquis quay, easy to discern thanks to its lighthouse and the public baths, a favourite with the hundreds of Genevans, foreigners and visitors who go there every day. You can get to this suburb in one of the famous motor launches that cross the river, which will take you to a natural swimming pool. You’ll have the chance of trying waters of different temperatures, saunas and waters withy curative elements. As well as the famous Pâquis baths, it is a suburb full of life frequented by many Genevans, with numerous restaurants and bars.
Grottes
This part of the city, situated behind Geneva’s main station, is an old suburb and houses numerous historical monuments. The general appearance is relatively rundown, in clear contrast with other parts of the city. If you’re wandering around this suburb, you mustn’t miss the Schtroumpfs house, a building in an original style that is even reminiscent of Gaudí.
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Cultural events
A varied programme in an incomparable setting International Motor Show Harvest Festival The Palexpo complex hosts this acclaimed event in the second week in March, with the latest motor features and models. It is the second most important show in the industry, after Detroit.
Book and Press Fair
Towards the end of April every year, this cultural event attracts numerous fans, professionals and the curious.
Music Festival
Between 24 and 26 April and 1 and 3 May sees a music competition held in the church of Saint-Gervais.
Festival of Hope
Held in the Bout-du-Monde sports centre at the end of May, where all the guest artists take part for charity in this free event featuring all genres of music.
Le Bol d’Or
The second weekend in June sees a series of regattas, making Lake Leman even more colourful.
Music Festival
As is traditional in every town in neighbouring France, Geneva also welcomes the arrival of summer, between 19 and 21, with a festival in which all the city’s musicians take part.
Geneva Festival
Held at the beginning of August and featuring concerts, activities, markets and spectacular fireworks over the lake.
Swiss World Music Festival Event in mid-September featuring rock groups and line-ups.
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The last week in September sees the festival devoted to wine-growing with a procession.
Classic Cars
Lovers of cars that marked an era flock to the city in the first week in October.
Geneva Competition
The second fortnight in October sees an international classical music competition.
Film and Television Festival
Exhibitions and, especially, screenings of a top-quality selection of films can be seen in the first weekend in November.
Geneva Fair
The second fortnight in November brings together over 600 exhibitors at an event embracing gastronomy, fashion and art.
Festival of Trees and Lights
This festival is staged in various places in the city from the end of November to early January, with markets, events and other performances.
Fête de l’Escalade
In early December, Genevans celebrate the festival marking victory over the French. Popular races, processions and other events highlight the value of this historic victory.
Christmas Market
At Place de la Fusterie, you can buy Christmas presents, sample the typical German sausage or warm up with the traditional hot wine.
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Points of interest The Water Jet
This is, without doubt , the emblem of the city, built in 1886 and restored in 1947. Spout, jet, fountain or originally Jet d’eau, it is an impressive 140-metre-high fountain that dominates the port of Geneva and is easily visible from anywhere in the city. The fountain, which shoots out water as 200 kilometres an hour over Lake Leman or Lake Geneva, was formerly the city’s stopcock and is today the highest fountain in Europe. Another of the attractions of the fountain is to see it lit up at night or just when it starts raining on a cloudy day, when you can see a rainbow in front of it. The spectacular jet is at the end of the lake, surrounded by landscaped walks, old residences and a great botanical wealth (swans, seagulls and ducks, basically). Ask about the calendar of regattas that are held on the lake, as the atmosphere that is created is hugely enjoyable.
Saint Peter’s Cathedral
This small but charming cathedral, next to the city auditorium, was built between 1160 and 1289 and combines Romanesque, Gothic and neo-Classical styles. John Knox and Calvin (who also founded a college and an academy, where classes were taught in Greek and Latin) came and preached here. In fact, today it is still reserved for the Protestant faith. The neo-Classic facade dates from 1750 and the bells marking the hours has the peculiarity of changing tune every month. You mustn’t miss the views of the city and the lake from the north tower after climbing the 157 steps of a tortuous spiral staircase. The cathedral also houses the fifteenth-century Chapel of the Maccabees, a set of ornaments and red and blue floor of a neo-Gothic appearance that has been successively a funeral chapel, a college, a store room, an auditorium and finally, a chapel of prayer. As a curiosity, the chapel was commissioned by Cardinal Jean de Brogny as a tomb for himself, but in the end he died and was buried in Rome. Finally, it is also worth noting that under Saint Peter’s Cathedral lies one of the most interesting archaeological sites in the whole of Europe.
Reformation Wall
Construction of the 18 metres of this wall began in 1909, marking the 400th anniversary of Calvin’s birth (he came to Geneva in 1541 and stayed there until his death in 1564). The wall is dedicated to the four leading reformists, Théodore de Bèze, Guillaume Farel and John Knox, as well as Calvin himself, who have their own statues next to other smaller ones of other reformers . The wall stands in a central enclave, the Bastions Park, where numerous students come when the sun shines and where you can also enjoy a giant chessboard on which Genevans play during the pleasant city afternoons. The same park, which was the former botanical garden, also houses the Eynard Palace, once the private residence of a banker, and the university campus, the site of some of the prestigious centres of education in Geneva. A pleasant spot from which to gaze on the gardens of Bastions Park is La Treille, the longest wooden bench in the world (126 metres long), which is on the Treille promenade, next to the south walls of the city’s old quarter.
Palace of the United Nations
Home of the old Society of Nations between 1920 and 1947, it is now an enormous palace that acts as second headquarters of the UN. Not in vain is it the second largest headquarters after the central headquarters in New York. The same complex, albeit in different buildings, houses the headquarters of the International Committee of the Red Cross, the International Labour Organisation, the World Trade Organisation and the World Health Organisation, among other representative bodies , highlighting the neutral nature of the country. This imposing double horseshoe-shaped building is set amid a park with hundred-year-old trees and is home to more than de 2,500 civil servants and 25,000 delegates from all the member countries . You can visit the building and a number of prestigious rooms, and you’ll also get the chance to savour the views of the city and sign the Golden Book of Peace, a commitment fulfilled every day by the thousands of visitors who make the trip to this legendary building.
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Points of interest
Other places of interest
The English Garden
Built in 1854, it is one of the city’s most iconic parks. One thing you really mustn’t miss is the Flower Clock, the largest clock in the world, with spectacular measurements of some 5 metres in diameter and 17.7 metres in circumference and which is decorated with more than 6,300 plants. The clock is little more than the reflection of the city’s clock making tradition. In the English Garden, you’ll also find the National Monument, a statue with two women representing the union of Geneva with the Swiss Confederation in 1814. For a short breather amid the plants and benches, you can photograph yourself next to a bronze fountain. The garden also features Rousseau Island, also called Boat Island, located between the Mont-Blanc and Bergues bridges, which was fortified until 1834. On the centre of the island stands the statue erected to the writer born in Geneva in 1712 and which gives the island its name.
Red Cross Museum
Audiovisuals, sculptures, computers and extensive documentation comprise the foundations of this centre, which tells the past, present and future of this organisation, which boasts over 100 years of history and which is based in Geneva. Its finish makes it one of the most impressive museums in the city.
The Botanical Gardens
One of the many green enclaves in Geneva, they stand next to the city’s lake and feature a structure that is as interesting to see as the species housed inside. Their origins date back to 1817 and they were subsequently moved to their present site in 1901. Covering nearly thirty hectares, they feature greenhouses with plants from every corner of the globe, old herb gardens, a pond with water plants and endless varieties of exotic animals and flowers, as well as a library with documentation on flora and fauna.
Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art The four floors in this cultural centre, located in an old factory, house modern works by prestigious European artists. One of the peculiarities of this museum, besides the original positioning of its works, is that you can find some artists in situ, as they go to the museum to work on their future works. You can also visit The Apartment, a permanent collection with elements that reproduce a Parisian artist’s studio, to which the works that comprise it belong.
House of Jean-Jacques Rousseau
The writer, philosopher and musician born in Geneva in 1712 has received as the greatest tribute to his legacy and his presence in the city, the Espace Rousseau, a centre that brings together the best of the thinker in the very house in which he was born. Set in the heart of the city’s old quarter, at number 40 on the Grand-Rue, the house features an audiovisual circuit which includes pictures, extracts from his literary works and part of his musical legacy, also available in several languages. A well-planned and highly educational centre. It is a unique opportunity to learn about the life of the illustrious author of the Social Contract.
Place Neuve
This enclave houses a large part of Geneva’s artistic treasure. Of note are the mounted statue of General Dufour (engineer and founding member of the Red Cross), the Rath Museum, opened in 1825 and considered to be the first Swiss building devoted to the fine arts, and the Grand Théâtre of Geneva, a great classical building inspired by the Ópera de Paris, which has its own ballet company and choir and which features the very best of Geneva’s artistic works and companies. 7
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Shows
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Besides being the home of great thinkers and writers, Geneva is also known for having a generous cultural offer for both locals and visitors, which includes theatre performances, dance, music of all genres and the most up-to-date films, available, like almost everything in this city, in various languages. The best thing to do to get organised and reserve your tickets is to buy the city’s weekly guides, such as Genève Agenda or Resaplus. Theatre
Ever since the days of Voltaire, Geneva has been home to a series of works of great renown throughout the year and which are usually performed in some of the city’s over 40 theatres. The New Theatre was built in 1783, which was subsequently replaced by the Grand Théâtre of Geneva, clearly inspired by the Ópera de Paris. With room for over 1,500 spectators, it is the iconic setting in which to enjoy a good show (theatre, opera, ballet and concerts). The Comédie de Genève and the Le Poche-Genève theatre are just two more of the great venues to get to know the theatre in the city.
Dance
Neo-classical, contemporary and even modern works are staged by the Ballet of the Grand Théâtre. The ballet season runs from September to June, as well as specific performances and themed nights.
Music
September to June also sees the majority of concerts being staged, also with the Grand Théâtre as the principal theatre. As for music in the city, the Orchestra of La Suisse Romande, the Geneva Chamber Music, the Harmonie Nautique and the students of the Music Conservatory are just some of the prestigious institutions. Besides the Grand Théâtre, the Victoria Hall and the Théodore Turrettini Hall also stage classical concerts. To hear more modern music in the Geneva nightlife, you could head for the old quarter, where you’ll find bars such as La Clémence, La Bohème (Arabic and techno music), Alhambar and Barrio’s Latino. More disco-style music can be found at White’s Silver (former Club 58), Platinum, B Club, Java Club, SIP and Scandale. Le Baroque Café features DJs and jazz groups live, while L’Usine and Au Chat Noir offers concerts several days a week. Finally, we can recommend Griffin’s Club Lounge and Shaker’s Club for lovers of rhythm and blues. Don’t forget, either, that the bars that are lucky enough to be near the lake or the river boast terraces for their customers in the summer, which locals and foreigners take to very eagerly.
Cinema
There are over 30 cinemas throughout the city, which are popular with Genevans and people passing through the land of Rousseau, despite the high prices of tickets. Europlex Rialto and Pathé Balexert are more conventional centres, whereas if you want more independent cinema, you should check out Scala or CAC Voltaire.
INFORMATION Geneva is the European city that devotes the greatest budget to culture and tourism, so it will be very easy to discover the city and get to know it. To help you in this, you can always head for the tourist office to find more up-to-date information. There are also offices at Pont de la Machine, the Cornavin station and in the university city.
Tourist Office 18, rue du Mont-Blanc. (022) 9097070 www.geneve-tourisme.ch
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