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Estambul: THE GATEAWAY TO THE EAST
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Istanbul
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Istanbul:
The Gateaway to the East
Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul... three names for a city with many histories. The former Turkish capital – half European, half Asian – has always been a strategic point coveted by emperors, kings and sultans. A sea port, meeting point for cultures and final stop on the Silk Road, all you need to do is to walk through its streets, sit in one of its squares or lose yourself in its bazaars to see the lively hustle and bustle exuded by this city, known at the beginning of the last century as one of the capitals of luxury. Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace are as characteristic of
Istanbul as the penetrating aroma of spices, the continuous hustle and bustle of passers by and the intense, chaotic traffic of a city that stands between two seas, a trading metropolis. Turkish and some German are spoken in its streets, together with English, French, Italian and Spanish when it comes to selling things to tourists. Because every year it attracts thousands of visitors thanks to its minarets stretching skywards, its collection of superimposed domes and its wonderful setting, together with the seaside landscape offered by the Sea of Marmara every dawn and the
A practical guide The only city in the world lying between two continents brings together more than eleven million inhabitants in its metropolitan area gradually extending northwards along the Bosphorus and inland on the Asian side. The grandiose nature of the city and its location, on the shores of the Golden Horn – an incomparable natural port – the Bosphorus Strait and the Sea of Marmara complicate any detailed route planning. In this guide we describe the most outstanding places of interest and offer an impression of the city as a whole. We select the priorities so you can enjoy an unforgettable weekend break, or four or five days at most. For this reason, in the following pages we will pause to consider only certain districts and certain monuments and museums, ignoring visits requiring a great deal of travel.
Historical notes The foundation of Istanbul is included in many legends. One of the best known goes back to the year 650 B.C., when the Greek settler Bizas decided to leave the overpopulated city of Megara to seek somewhere else where he and his people could start a new life. According to the customs of those times, before undertaking such a dangerous journey, he had to consult the oracle at Delphi, which answered that they had to settle “opposite the
country of the blind”. When Bizas arrived at Istanbul’s current location he saw that on the opposite shore there was an Asian tribe who had not appreciated the wealth of the other side, particularly its natural port. This made him think they had to be blind, and he began to build a new colony on the European shore of the Bosphorus, which he called Byzantium. Legends apart, the only certain thing is that the site has been inhabited since time immemorial.
In ancient times, the Bosphorus formed part of an important trade route where Mediterranean oil and wine were exchanged for grain, leather, wool, wood, meat, honey and wax. This area was controlled by different people from Mycenaean times onwards (1400-1200 B.C.). Later, in 676 B.C., a Greek expedition founded the city of Calcedonia on the site where the peripheral district of Kadiköy stands today.
beautiful colours of the Black Sea. Lying at the entrance to the Bosphorus, the strait joining both seas, Istanbul is divided into three parts – the old centre, the Galata district and, in Asia, the Üsküdar district – linked by two spectacular viaducts and a swarm of ferries. The flavours and fragrances of Asia come together in Istanbul, which is also a European city, near and, at the same time, far away, which has grown up based on exchange and mixing; a mixture of everything and everyone.
Under the Roman Empire Thanks to trade, Byzantium progressed rapidly to become one of the forty most powerful city states in ancient Greece, and it became associated with Calcedonia. It was dominated by Lydians, Athenians and Macedonians, until, in 64 B.C., it became part of the Roman Empire. In the 4th century, with Constantine the Great in power, it stole capital city status from Rome itself, and it then came to be called Constantinople, in honour of the highest imperial authority. The Roman Empire was finally divided in 395 between the two sons of Theodosius I: Honorius and Arcadius. With Justinian [527-565] Byzantium achieved
expansion similar to that enjoyed by the Romans, except for Hispania and Gaul. Many of the great architectural works are due to this emperor, including Hagia Sophia and some parts of the Great Palace, whose site has now virtually disappeared. The Byzantine Empire never again recovered the splendour of Justinian’s reign but, during the first millennium, it preserved its power and wealth. Besieged by the Arabs and, later, by the Bulgars, it became a bastion of Christianity against Islam. Coinciding with the reign of Basil II [9761025], the Byzantines achieved notable military victories over Bulgars, Armenians,
Georgians, Persians, Arabs and Normans, which favoured the consolidation of a period of progress. However, the weakness of his successors and the difficulty of defending the frontiers led to a decline which was shown up by the defeat against the Seljuk Turks at the battle of Manzikert (1071). After that, and despite enjoying a period of great artistic fertility during the 12th and 13th centuries, the Byzantine Empire was increasingly hemmed in by the Ottomans and by the armies of the Fourth Crusade.
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The final blow Ottoman power burst on to the scene in 1301 when Osman I, leader of a group of warriors fighting for the Muslim faith on the eastern frontier of the Byzantine Empire, declared independence. By about 1362, with the conquest of Adrianople, Byzantium was practically reduced to the city state of Constantinople. The fall of the enclave into Ottoman hands was only a matter of time, and it finally happened on 29 May 1453, after a 54-day siege during which Sultan Mehmet II’s cannons opened a great hole in the walls built by Theodosius II in the 5th century. The city’s 7,000 defenders, who had the help of 700 Genoese and 200 Catalans, amounted to very few up against the overwhelming numerical superiority of the attackers, estimated at 160,000 men. Constantine XI threw off the imperial regalia, took up arms and blended in with the combatants. His body was never found. Constantinople was sacked for three days,
rechristened with the name of Istanbul and made the capital of the Ottoman Empire until 1923. The Ottomans consolidated their sovereignty in Asia Minor and became the scourge of Europe after expanding through the Balkans and reaching Vienna (1529). Hagia Sophia, the biggest church in Europe, was converted into a mosque for the Muslim religion.
New Golden Age
In the years immediately after the conquest, Istanbul was rebuilt and architectural treasures like the Great Bazaar and Topkapi Palace were built. People from throughout the empire moved to the city, where Jews, Christians and Muslims lived alongside one another. The point of maximum Ottoman expansion occurred during the reign of Suleiman I the Magnificent [1520-1566]. During these years there was
Atatürk’s revolution In 1906, a group of intellectuals founded a party called the Young Turks, whose proclamations spread rapidly. The pressure forced the promulgation of a new constitution and the granting of a general amnesty to political prisoners and exiles. In successive wars with Russia and Austria, the Ottoman Empire lost possessions, which led to the appearance of new states in the Balkans, such as Serbia and Bulgaria. It then allied itself with the losing powers in the First World War, and Istanbul was occupied by victorious French and British troops. At the beginning of the last century, the political figure of Mustafa Kemal Pa_a, better known as Atatürk or Father of the Turks, burst on to the scene with unusual force. It was he who undertook
the war of independence to recover the territories annexed by the allies, above all by Greece. And it was he who abolished the Sultanate and in 1923 founded the Republic of Turkey on the ruins of the Ottoman Empire. The secularised country adopted the Roman alphabet instead of Arabic script, among other great changes. Istanbul, the capital of the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires, lost its rank in favour of Ankara. Despite this, it maintains its status as the country’s principal city and it has taken giant strides towards modernisation over the last few decades. In order to move closer to the European Union, it has also advanced in matters of human rights: in 2004 a protocol was signed to ban the death penalty and some Kurdish activists were granted amnesties.
a flowering of art and architecture which would not be repeated under his successors. The social reforms necessary to end the decline of the empire were cut short by mutinies, like the one in 1807, led by the Janissaries, a military corps that refused to adapt to the reality of a modern army. The revolt was crushed and the government was later reorganised, assigning a salary to civil servants to prevent corruption and replacing the post of Vizier with that of Prime Minister. In 1876 a constitution was promulgated and a parliamentary system established, the basis for modern Turkey. However, with the excuse of a war against Russia, the Parliament was dissolved shortly afterwards and a reactionary policy began.
Useful advice
In Istanbul the time is an hour ahead of Western European time, that is, GMT +2. The climate is Mediterranean, although with some singular features corresponding to its location on the shores of the Sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus. The summers are hot and the winters mild, which means extreme temperatures are not recorded during any season of the year. Winter is the period with most rain, although heavy downpours can also fall between April and May. Snowfalls are sporadic and snowflakes rarely settle. The city is at its best at the end of May and the beginning of September, when the mild temperatures and sun invite you to walk in the streets
without a break. Prices usually go up in high season, between June and August.
with peripheral districts via Sultanahmet; and another operated with trams from the beginning of the 20th century that rattle slowly along _stiklâl Caddesi, between Beyo_lu and Taksim Square. This connects with Karaköy via the Tünel underground railway, built in 1875 and known for being the shortest in the world. Both trams run from 7am to 9.30pm. The light railway was opened in 2002 and stops at the airport, the main bus station and Aksaray. To obtain more information about the underground and trams you can consult the following Internet portal: www. istanbul-ulasim.com.tr. The passenger ferries (www.tdi.com.tr) are a very pleasant way of discovering Istanbul from other perspectives. The tickets are bought at the kiosks on the quays. The boats on the main routes set sail every 20 minutes between 7am and 11pm, although the service between Eminönü and Kadiköy ends at 8pm. There are many quays throughout Eminönü, from where ferries depart to Üsküdar, Kadiköy and Be_ikta_. A small group of private operators offer the service between Üsküdar and Be_ikta_, which leaves every ten minutes during the day and at midnight (when it is full). The prices are no different to those for the publicly run boats; the only difference is
that payment must be in cash. In general, public transport tickets are cheap. Yellow taxis can be hailed anywhere. However, the safest thing for tourists is to ask for the service from a hotel instead of taking the ones parked outside because that way there is less risk of being cheated. The night rate (from midnight to 6am) is 50% more expensive than in the day, although generally the prices are cheap compared to the main European capitals. Visitors are advised to check the rate that will be applied to them: gündüz means day and gece, night, terms that must appear in the taxi. Another signal indicating the type of rate are the lights: one light indicates day rate and two, night rate. It is not normal to leave a tip unless you have asked for a special service. The taxi drivers, who do not usually speak English, do not charge supplements for additional passengers or for luggage. The dolmus (shared taxi) is a big, modern yellow van following a short, fixed, circular route outside the city centre, such as Taksim- Be_ikta_ and TaksimNisantasi. There are also blue microbuses following longer routes. Passengers can pick up this latter service almost anywhere. The microbuses are usually full of passengers standing up. You pay when you get on, always in cash.
You can walk to almost all the monuments, but take care because the cars hardly stop at pedestrian crossings. Hiring a vehicle is not advisable because of the extraordinary traffic jams and terrible driving that are the rule in the city. There are also almost no signposts. As in the vast majority of cities, the best thing to do is to combine walking with journeys on public transport. The central areas have a good public bus and underground service. Each means of transport requires a different ticket, although there is a season ticket called an
akbil, a metal token bought at the main ticket offices on the network, which is used for the underground, trams and ferries with the payment of a refundable deposit. The urban buses are run both by private companies and by the State. Due to the constant traffic jams they are usually slow and uncomfortable at rush hours and they are almost always packed. Theoretically they run until midnight. The underground system from Taksim to IV Levent, the city’s most important financial district, was opened in 2000. It runs between 6am to 2am but only has six stops. There are also two tram routes on the European side: a fast, modern one linking Eminönü
Istanbul is as safe as any other European city. As always, it is a good idea to avoid lonely areas at night, particularly in peripheral areas near the old walls. You also need to watch out for pickpockets, who often take advantage of carelessness in the busiest spots. The best thing is to leave valuable objects at home or keep them out of the reach of the thieves. Almost all businesses and offices open from 8.30 or 9am to 5pm, with an hour for lunch, although there are shops that open late for customers. Tips are not compulsory, although in restaurants and cafes it is normal to round up the bill if the service has been satisfactory.
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Cuisine The heritage of the old empire
Main events and festivals A city with tradition New Year’s Day 1 January, the first day of the year. National holiday. The streets are decorated with lights and western Christmas traditions are followed. Easter In March or April. It is celebrated with a pilgrimage to Saint George’s monastery in Büyükada on the Prince’s Islands.
Turkish cuisine spread through half of Europe and the Middle East thanks to centuries of Ottoman rule. Some of the best-known specialities are due to this influence, such as yoghurt salads, fish in olive oil, stuffed vegetables and sweets. It forms part of the Mediterranean diet, but with specific features. The country’s widely varying climate and geography allow tea to be grown in the northern part and bananas and hot peppers on the south. The thousands of kilometres of coast guarantee fresh fish and seafood. Unleavened bread, together with vegetables and seasonal fruit form the basis of any Turkish-style meal. The country’s people are especially fond of peaches, melons, water melons, plums, aubergines, quince, olives, hazelnuts and walnuts. The ancient Greeks introduced wine-making into Anatolia, while the Persians generalised the consumption of sweets and rice. Dill, mint, cumin, garlic and bay leaves are the spices most often used in Turkish cooking, while yoghurt is the common condiment.
There are countless specialities, including the forty ways of cooking aubergines. A typical Turkish breakfast is made up of tomatoes, fresh cheese, black olives, bread, honey or jam and sometimes eggs. Lunch usually includes a dish of cereal, rice, lamb, chicken cooked with peppers and aubergines or griddled fresh fish with lemon. Among meats, lamb is undoubtedly predominant. The most common sausages are a paprika flavoured one (sucuk) and a beef sausage covered with cumin (pastirma). Soups should not be forgotten, particularly the one made from red lentils and another made with pieces of lamb and egg stock. Dinner begins with cold meats and sausage (meze) and aperitifs, such as aubergine purée salad, humus with unleavened bread (pide), chopped pepper and cucumber, sardines wrapped in vine leaves and lamb meatballs. Istanbul’s main culinary speciality is midye dolmasi: mussels stuffed with rice, steamed and served with lemon juice. The most successful desserts are dried apricots in syrup accompanied
by cream and pistachio nuts, which are served with coffee (kahve), which is very strong. The most popular drink is very dark tea (çay), served in tulip shaped glasses and, among alcoholic drinks, raki, a highly alcoholic liqueur made of grapes and aniseed. It is drunk above all at dinner and generally served in two straight, cylindrical glasses. The raki, which it transparent, is poured into the first glass and water is then added. Water only is poured into the second glass. You take a drink of raki from the first glass and a drink of water from the second. It is best accompanied by salty cheese, melon and nuts. Istanbul restaurants cover everything from simple places selling kebabs to the most luxurious establishments (restoran), which can be found in Taksim.
Istanbul International Film Festival This takes place at the end of March or beginning of April in many of the city’s cinemas. Tulip Festival This is held in the Emirgan park in April, when they come into flower. Independence Day On 23 April, the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey, in 1923, is celebrated. It coincides with Children’s Day, when children dress up in regional costumes. Commemoration of Anzac disembarkation On 25 April, the disembarkation of the British, Australians and New Zealanders during the First World War is remembered. Spring Day and Festival of Work They coincide on 1 May and the trade unions call demonstrations by workers. Kakava Festival This gypsy music and dance event is organised at Edirne at the beginning of May. Youth and Sport Day This takes place on 19 May to commemorate the beginning of the War of Independence in 1919. Sporting events are planned in the city’s stadiums and streets. Istanbul International Theatre Festival This is organised between May and June on different stages where Turkish and European plays are performed. Conquest of Istanbul On 29 May, the taking of the city by Mehmet II in 1453 is remembered with parades and performances which take place between Tophane and Karaköy.
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Istanbul International Festival of Music and Dance Musical notes invade the city between the middle of June and July. Navy Day Old and new boats crowd the waters of the Bosphorus on 1 July. Istanbul International Jazz Festival This is organised in June at different venues. Victory Day National festival celebrated on 30 August to commemorate the military triumph over Greece in 1922. Republic Day This is celebrated on 29 October to recall the proclamation of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. Istanbul International Fine Arts Biennial Between October and November, international and local artists come together in the city to present their works in historic buildings. Istanbul Eurasia International Marathon This endurance race is organised in October between Üsküdar and Taksim. Anniversary of Atatürk’s death On 10 November a minute’s silence is held at 9.05am to remember the father of the country at the precise moment he passed away. Christmas Although 25 December is not a holiday, the main hotels organise parties. In addition, other Muslim festivities are held, whose date changes depending on lunar cycles, such as Ramadan, the month of fasting between dawn and dusk among the Islamic faithful, which ends with three days of national holiday. The Festival of the Sacrifice (Kurban Bayram), commemorating the Koranic version of the sacrifice of Abraham, is also experienced very intensely.
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Places of interest
Countless details
Bazaar District Trade is one of the badges of identity of Istanbul, a city lying between Asia and Europe at the head of the old Silk Road. Nowhere else is this as clear as in the mass of alleyways lying between the Grand Bazaar and Galata Bridge. Here, bargaining becomes an art form and purchases are negotiated with a glass of tea, as they were centuries ago. The Grand Bazaar, with its more than 3,000 shops and stalls, and the Suleiman the Magnificent Mosque are two of the main reference points visitors entering this soukh district should bear in mind. This area is washed by the Golden Horn, one of the biggest natural ports in the world, a flooded river valley running into the Bosphorus. Sultanahmet Perhaps this is the most attractive district for tourists as it includes the Hagia Sophia church and the Blue Mosque, two treasures of world religious architecture. This area bears the name of Sultan Ahmet I, one of the creators of the area’s monuments. In the Byzantine period, the Great Palace stood in this part of the city, now occupied by traditional Ottoman-style houses, particularly as the visitor approaches the shores of the Sea of Marmara. Seraglio This covers the north-eastern end of the European part and is crowned by a promontory on which the large, luxurious Topkapi Palace sits. Here, at the confluence of the waters of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara, stands one of the most splendid sites in the Islamic world, the residence of Ottoman sultans for 400 years. Part of the land of the complex has been converted into a public park. This area has little traffic so it can be explored on foot, although there are also trams beginning their route at the Grand Bazaar. No trip to Istanbul is complete without enjoying a Turkish bath. One of the oldest and most luxurious, Ca_alo_lu (18th century), stands in this district and has identical, separate sections for men and women. History also comes to meet the tourist at Sirkeci railway station, terminus of the Orient Express between 1883 and 1977. The station cafe is a good place to seek refuge from the hustle and bustle for a few minutes.
Hagia Sophia The construction of this church emptied the coffers of the emperor Justinian I [527-565], who lived with the obsession of exceeding the dimensions and splendour of the temple of Solomon. Its massive form, crowned by a dome 31 metres across and 55 metres high, conceals an interior richly decorated with mosaics, the greatest example of Byzantine art. After the conquest of the city in 1453 by the Ottoman troops, Sultan Mehmet II ordered the church to be transformed into a mosque, but in 1935, another important figure in Turkish history and creator of the modern country, Kemal Atatürk made it into a museum. One of the main desires of almost any visitor coming to Istanbul is bound to be to see this dome, designed to give the feeling that it is suspended in the sky, as is seeing the huge circular Ottoman ceiling with verses from the Koran inscribed on it. Topkapi Palace Any recent arrival’s imagination is bound to be fired by seeing this building, surrounded by five kilometres of walls and located where the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus run into the Sea of Marmara. The imperial residence until 1853,, in 1924 the site was turned into a museum exhibiting the legacy of Ottoman power, from Chinese porcelain to manuscripts and including Sultans’ costumes and a treasury, with pieces like the Spoon Diamond, which weighs no less than 86 carats, and the throne of Ahmet I, carved in precious wood enriched with 25,000 pearls and gems. Although it might seem impossible, some rooms are even more amazing than the jewels. The harem, which is accessed by crossing a garden courtyard separating it from the Sultan’s chamber, includes 30 rooms making up a labyrinth that was reserved for the sovereign and his women, ranging from anonymous slaves to concubines or kadin, who had borne a child by the Sultan who sometimes exercised enormous influence at court. In the 16th century, the palace came to house 3,000 residents, including women of the harem, civil servants and military staff.
Beyo_lu This district, with its cosmopolitan atmosphere, opens up to the north of the Golden Horn. Here, communities of foreigners living in the city have established themselves for centuries. The first to reach these coasts were the Genoese, who were allowed to settle on Galata hill, now dominated by the tower of the same name, as a reward for the help given during the reconquest of the area in the 13th century. In the period of Ottoman rule, a colony of Jews expelled from Spain was created, followed by Arabs, Greeks and Armenians. The great European powers established their embassies here. The main street in Beyo_lu is _stiklâl Caddesi, a pedestrian thoroughfare with a large concentration of shops, theatres and cinema. Previously known as Grand Rue de Pera, it is flanked by 19th-century residential buildings. Over the last few years this area has attracted young entrepreneurs, which has led to the opening of new businesses, such as jazz clubs and craft shops. However, tradition is also present, for example in Galatasaray market, which largely sells cheeses. Modern Beyo_lu is shown above all in Taksim Square, with its incessant coming and going of people.
Grand Bazaar The essence of the Orient can be discovered in the antique shops of the Grand Bazaar, where trade and commerce go beyond simple business. There are more than 3,000 shops and stalls in this huge market covered with domes, as well as gold and silversmiths workshops, shoemakers, jewellers and carpet makers. In this network of shops and stalls there is plenty of buying and selling, but above all bargaining. The general chaos is an intrinsic part of a world where it is allowed to touch, try and even taste. The items on sale never have a price, as this depends on the expertise and patience of the buyer, the way the seller’s day is going, whether they are in a hurry, the understanding between them and the strategy of the neighbouring trader. There are also few reliable units of measurement and little care in showing off the goods. It must not be forgotten that the legendary Silk Road ended in Istanbul and that this inheritance from the days of merchants and camel caravans remains very much alive. The Grand Bazaar was built after the conquest in 1453 as a slave market and to house the hans or caravan hostels, where the Silk Road traders could rest with their camels and also sell their wares. The ceiling decoration and labyrinthine lay-out of the bazaar continue to transport visitors back into the past, but nowadays most of the premises spread over 60 streets sell items for tourists, largely carpets, gold, leather and ceramics. The bazaar also contains two mosques, currency exchange offices, a police station, cafes and an information centre.
Fener The old Greek district stands on the shores of the Golden Horn. There you will find the Rose Mosque, a Byzantine church adapted to the Muslim religion after 1453; the Greek Patriarchate, a centre of great spiritual value for Orthodox Christians; the Red School; and the Bulgarian church of Sveti Stefan, built of iron. It is now a poor area largely populated by Turkish immigrants who have come to Istanbul seeking a better future. Visitors will see very old houses and many children playing in the streets.
Egyptian Bazaar Just as fascinating is this other bazaar, better known as the spice bazaar referring to its old commercial specialisation. It stands on the site of an old 17th-century market that was destroyed by fire. The vaulted, L-shaped market stands beside the Golden Horn. Nowadays, you can find nuts, caviar and Turkish delight on its stalls, as well as countless tourist souvenirs. The neighbouring streets are a focus of activity, with craftsmen and traders all over the place offering a great selection of cheeses and olives.
Balat After the fall of Granada at the end of the 15th century, many Jews left the Iberian Peninsula and arrived by boat in the Golden Horn. The Sephardite community established itself on the shores of this natural harbour, which is why this area is known as the Jewish district, although it was also home to Greeks, Armenians and Turks. The Ahrida synagogue is the only one that remains open in this area. It is still possible to see the Star of David on the façades of some houses. Many of the Jews of Balat emigrated to Israel in the fifties.
Blue Mosque This was built during the sultanate of Ahmet I [1603-1617] as the Islamic answer to Hagia Sophia and nowadays it is still the centre of the principal religious manifestations. Iznik blue tiles dominate the interior and, combined with more than 250 windows, create a light this colour. The space inside is astonishing, with a central dome designed to raise the eyes towards heaven, screens in the imperial room and the mihrab, the prayer niche, containing a piece of sacred black stone from Mecca. During summer evenings there is a sound and light show. The mosque’s six minarets preside over the broad square that opens up in the heart of Sultanahmet, the most historic district of Istanbul.
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Shows Although they are poorly promoted, the rich and varied cultural activities in Istanbul are often seen as very interesting by the majority of visitors. New festivals have emerged over the last few years, while art galleries and concert halls have opened. The most important events in the calendar are usually organised by the Istanbul Foundation for Culture and the Arts (www.istfest.org) and take place between March and November. The French Cultural Centre also shows films and programmes dance performances. The cinemas are concentrated in the Beyo_lu district. It must be borne in mind that it is difficult to get tickets for the famous film and jazz festivals so it is advisable to book well in advance.
YOUR NOTES
Theatre International and Turkish works are performed on the stages of Istanbul, but only in Turkish (sometimes with English subtitles). One of the best-known companies has its headquarters at the Atatürk Cultural Centre (AKM) and aims its activities at big shows. There are many small theatres in _stiklâl Caddesi. The season begins in September and ends in June. Music The posters in _stiklâl Caddesi are the best way of finding out about forthcoming musical events. Every season, the Istanbul State opera and ballet companies and the National Symphony Orchestra offer a wide repertoire of classical and modern works. All of them share the same hall: the AKM, with capacity for 900 spectators. However, the most impressive setting in the city is the Byzantine church of Hagia Eirene, standing on the Topkapi Palace site. The busiest venue during the summer months is the Open Air Theatre, where the Jazz Festival and various contemporary music concerts are held every year. Classical music recitals, folk dancing and dance shows are programmed in the Cemal Re_it Rey concert hall. Rock, jazz and blues can be enjoyed in venues and bars like the Hayal Kahvesi, the Q Jazz Bar – in the Çira_an Palace Kempinski hotel – the Rock House Café – going up the Bosphorus at Ortaköy – and the Kemanci, in the centre and specialising in rock and heavy metal. One of the best belly dancing shows is offered in the Galata Tower restaurant, with others at the Kervansaray, Manzara and Orient House venues. Sports Football, basketball and wrestling are the three sports that attract most fans in Turkey. The three Istanbul football teams – Be_ikta_, Fenerbahçe and Galatasaray – take part in international competitions. An modern motor racing circuit, built on the Asian side, hosts a Formula 1 Grand Prix. In 2008 this event was held at the beginning of May. The Istanbul Eurasia Intercontinental Marathon will reach its 30th anniversary this year when it takes place on 26 October.
INFORMATION Istanbul tourist information offices do not usually have many leaflets, but they can give advice to help any visitor. The main one is in Sultanahmet Square. Its details are as follows: Sultanahmet Meydani (0212) 518 1802 www.kultur.gov.tr www.instanbul.com Opening times: Monday to Friday, from 9am to 5pm and on Saturdays from 9am to 1pm. There are other offices in the international arrivals hall at Atatürk airport, at the Sirkeci railway station, at the Karaköy maritime passenger terminal and in the shopping gallery at the Hilton Hotel Arcade.
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