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PRAGUE AN ARCHITECTURAL DELIGHT
HISTORICAL NOTES bmoving Getting about in Prague
Gastronomy & MAIN EVENTS AND FESTIVITIES baround Neighbours in Prague
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bprague Other places of interest
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HistoricalNotes T
his Central European region was permanently inhabited by different Germanic and Celtic tribes before the arrival of the Slavs. One of those peoples, the Boios, gave Bohemia its name, which is still used to refer to the western part of the Czech Republic. In the 6th century two Slav tribes settled on opposite banks of a stretch of the Moldava River, where the land turned out to be especially good. The Czechs built a wooden fort on the spot where today the Castle District (Hrad_any) is to be found, while the Zlí_ani did so upstream, where today the Castle on the Heights (Vys_hrad) can be seen. The internal battles among them and against the Avars and the Frankish took place. Prince Bo_ivoj ordered the Prague Castle to be built in the year 870 as the main residence of the Premyslid dynasty, although later the German King Otón I conquered Bohemia and made it a part of the Holy Roman Germanic Empire.
Prague
AN ARCHITECTURAL DELIGHT O
ne of the most beautiful cities in Europe. That is how the millions of tourists who visit the Czech capital every year describe Prague, one of the cradles of Europe and a monumental city if every there was one. This architectural jewel, which was classified as a World Heritage Site in 1992, combines Gothic verticality, Baroque exuberance, Modernist elegance and the sharp edges of Cubist façades. Music is also very present in every street, every corner and, of course, in the taverns and traditional bars, which over the years have made room for avantgarde venues and psychedelic clubs. So is beer, which has been brewed since at least the 9th century. Safeguarded from the ravages of the Second World War, this noble European metropolis has become an example of survival after the Communist regime and exudes charm, especially in the old quarter, through which the winding Moldava River runs. Prague is a city to explore in depth at any time of the year, in 1
the winter mist, the spring bloom, the summer heat or the autumn glow. Wandering through its pedestrian alleys and medieval squares is a real treat for the senses that is within everyone’s reach. It is, in fact, a city of cities, with different neighbourhoods that
have preserved a traditional atmosphere, among them the Jewish quarter. This pearl of the Austro-Hungarian Empire looks to the future with pride; vigorous and welcoming. If you too would like to discover the charms of Prague, just go… and enjoy!
A practical guide The information contained in this guide is not meant to cover the entire city, but rather to provide tourists with an insight into the most interesting places to visit. There are just over one million inhabitants in Prague and it covers 496 square kilometres, making it too big to visit in just a few days. A fewer kilometres from the centre lies the Bohemian countryside, peppered with historical sites, like the castles of Karl_ tejn and Konopi_t_, the former Nazi prison of Terezçin and the city of Kutná Hora, which was classified as a World Heritage Site in 1996. Nevertheless, in this guide we have focussed on the most popular urban attractions and, at the same time, on places that perhaps go unnoticed, but that allow you to capture the essence of the Czech capital and to get a feel for its day to day life.
The Golden Age Prague flourished during the 14th century under the reign of Charles IV, who ordered the New City (Nové M_sto) to be built and brought about the creation of the first university in Central Europe. It was then that the city acquired its fascinating Gothic look and when some of the symbols that have survived until today were built, among them the Charles Bridge and the St Vitus Cathedral. In the late 14th and early 15th centuries a Reformation movement, led by Jan Hus, appeared in the heart of the Catholic Church. After Has was burnt at stake, that movement resulted in a nationalist rebellion led by the Hussite preacher Jan _elivsk_. In 1419 his followers threw several Catholic town councillors out of the windows of the New Town Hall in an act known as the Defenestration of Prague, a term which even since has been used in a figurative way, for example, when someone is expelled from a political position. The Reign of the Habsburgs In 1526 the Austrian Habsburgs were again summoned by the Czech nobility to control Bohemia. In the second half of the 16th century, during the reign of Emperor Rodolfo II, the city enjoyed a period of great prosperity and became the capital of the AustroHungarian Empire. The monarch gathered important collections of art and summoned famous artists and scholars to his court. Those prosperous years lasted until 1541, when a large fire destroyed many neigh-
bourhoods of the Lesser Quarter (Malá strana) and of the Castle District. The uprising of the Bohemian Estates started in 1618, when two imperial councillors and a secretary were thrown out of the windows of the Prague Castle. The event negatively affected the fate of the Czechs over the following 300 years. That second defenestration triggered the start of the Thirty Year War, which devastated a large part of Europe and in which a quarter of the population of Bohemia succumbed. The military defeat put an end to the plans of independence for nearly three centuries and the Czechs lost their privileges, rights and properties as Catholicism and a Germanic culture were imposed on them. The city’s population decreased from 60,000 inhabitants in 1620 to 24,600 in less than three decades. The Habsburgs again transferred the capital to Vienna and Prague was brushed aside as a provincial town. The 18th century brought with it the city’s economic and architectural recovery thanks to the impetus of the Baroque style. The four nuclei that make up the urban structure –the Old Town, the New Town, the Lesser Quarter and the Castle District- were merged into a single centre by means of an imperial decree passed in 1784. The Height of Czech Nationalism In the 19th century Prague became the centre of a nationalist movement that first became apparent in the field of journalism, in literature and in Czech plays. The Industrial Revolution helped form a middle class that has always shown a fierce determination to be heard. Like that, in 1848 the city joined the democratic revolutions that were thriving throughout Europe and was the first in the Austro-Hungarian Empire to proclaim itself in favour of the reform. Nevertheless, as was the case in other places, the uprising was immediately crushed. But the determination of the masses bore its fruits. With the approval of the United States, Czechoslovakia declared its independence on 28 October 1918, with Prague as its capital and with the writer and philosopher Tomá_ Garrigue Masaryk as its first president. On 1 January 1922 several neighbouring villages and towns were incorporated into the city, creating Metropolitan Prague or Greater Prague, with a population of 677,000 inhabitants, a figure that rose to a million just before the Second World War. The Nazi Occupation Peace didn’t last very long in the new
country. Most of the three million German speakers of Bohemia and Moravia wanted to become a part of Greater Germany and, in October 1938, the Nazis invaded the Sudetes, the border area between Germany and Austria. Half a year later they occupied Bohemia and Moravia, declaring them a protectorate of Germany. Prague was only slightly damaged during the Second World War, although the Germans crushed the resistance in retaliation for the assassination in the city of Reinhard Heydrich, an SS general. The city’s Jewish community, made up of some 120,000 people, was wiped off the map by the Nazis. The drama continued until 8 May 1945, the day on which the population freed the city, just before the arrival of the Red Army. Czechoslovakia regained its independence and one of the first decisions of its government was to order the ejection of the Germans from the Sudetes, a wound which only recently healed, more specifically in 1997, with the signing of a declaration of mutual apologies between the Czech Republic and Germany. The Communist Regime In the elections of 1946, the Czechoslovakian Communist Party (KS_) set itself up as the country’s main political force. Tensions increased among the political class, until in February 1948 the Communists staged a coup d’état with the support of the Soviet Union. Thousands of people who were opposed to the new regime fled the country and repression began again. At the end of the 1960s, Czechoslovakia enjoyed a period of gradual liberalisation, but the Soviet leaders were soon alarmed at the prospect of it spreading to Poland and Hungary. The short-lived Prague Spring was crushed by the invasion of the Warsaw Pact troops on the night of 20-21 August 1968. But the seeds of opposition to the regime, led by the poet and playwright Václav Havel, had already germinated, and nothing could stop them from growing. The Communists remained in power until the fall of the Berlin Wall in November 1989. In December a national reconciliation government was formed and Havel was elected president of the country. The new leader promoted a large part of the social and economic reforms which, on 1 May 2004, resulted in the entry of the Czech Republic into the European Union. Havel had, however, been unable to prevent the partition of the country and the split from Slovakia in 1993. 2
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Gastronomt Meat and Beer Czech cuisine is typically Central European and is influenced by the German, Austrian, Polish and Hungarian cuisines, making it both rich and varied. It is rather filling, since it mainly consists of meat, potatoes and rice covered in sauces and accompanied by vegetables. Pork and game birds are common ingredients in Czech dishes, although chicken and veal are slowly gaining importance. Fish isn’t very common, except around Christmas, when dishes containing trout, pike and carp tend to be prepared. Examples of traditional Czech dishes are meat stew in a red pepper sauce accompanied by
bread or potato dumplings (gulá_), pork with cabbage (knedlo-zelo-vep_o) and veal with a cream sauce and bread dumplings (sví_ková). Czech cuisine isn’t very suitable for people on a diet, although most restaurants also offer dishes without meat and light menus. To help you digest your food, there is nothing better than a lager or a Moravian red wine. Czech beer is among the best in the world and its artisan production dates back to the 9th century. The first lager-type beer appeared in the taverns of Plze_ (Pilsen), in western Bohemia. The Czechs are among the biggest consumers of this type of potion
in the world, with a yearly average of 158 litres per person. A typical breakfast consists of a slice of bread or a bread roll with butter, cheese, eggs, ham or sausage, jam or yoghurt, and tea or coffee. The Czechs tend to start their meals with soup (polévka), although sausages and the famous Prague ham are also common first courses. As for desserts, tinned fruit, cakes and apple tart abound. Prague’s gastronomic scene has evolved rapidly over the last few years and has opened up to new trends from the international scene and ethnic cuisine.
GETTING ABOUT IN PRAGUE Practical Advice
The Czech Republic is in the same time zone as the rest of Central Europe, in other words, GMT + 1 hour, like in countries such as Spain. Any time of year is good to visit Prague, although it is best to avoid the peak tourist periods, like Easter, Christmas and the months of July and August. Its climate, between Mediterranean and Continental, is characterised by hot summers with occasional showers, and cold winters with a lot of snowfall. On a normal day in June, July or August the thermometer may fluctuate between 12ºC and 22ºC, with an average temperature of 19ºC. From December until January the temperatures drop below 0ºC. The driest period is from January to March. On the whole, May and September are the most pleasant months to enjoy the Czech capital. The best way to discover the historic centre of Prague is on foot and with the help of public transport, which is cheap, efficient and goes nearly everywhere. It is run by a company (Dopravní podnik) that has information offices. The network includes a metro service, trams, busses and the funicular of the Pet_ín hill, and runs from 5 am until midnight. Only a few trams and busses operate at night. The city has three metro lines (A- green, B-yellow and C-red) with a total of 49 stations, 50 kilometres of tracks and three interchanges: Muzeum (A and C), M_ stek (A and B) and Florenc (B and C). The metros pass every two minutes on working days between 5 am and 8 pm and every five or ten minutes on the remaining days or 3
between 8 pm and midnight. Tickets have to be purchased in advance and have to be validated at the entrance. Besides the regular fare, 24-hour tickets, or three, seven or fifteen day tickets are also available. The Prague card is a three-day ticket especially aimed at tourists, since it gives you access to the entire public transport network and facilitates the entrance into most of the city’s state museums. The routes and timetables of the trams and busses are shown at all the stops. Certain lines provide a service between midnight and 5 am, passing by approximately every 40 minutes. In 2002 the Town Council of Prague adopted firm measures against unscrupulous taxi drivers, increasing the amount of the fines for overcharging clients, and continues its battle against con men. Nevertheless, hailing a taxi in the street, especially in the most popular tourist areas, can still be very expensive. The most problematic spots are those around the Wenceslao Square, the National Avenue, Moat Street and the main train station. Therefore, you are advised to call a taxi company instead of hailing a taxi on the street, since company taxis are better controlled and tend to be more reliable. If, however, you do hail a taxi on the street, it is best to ask the driver to give you the approximate price of the trip before getting in, and to ask him or her to start the taximeter. If he or she tells you that it’s out of order, you are advised to look for a different taxi or to agree a price before leaving. The fare is usually rounded off as a tip, provided
that the service was satisfactory. Because of the paved streets, the tram tracks, the busy traffic and the pollution visitors are advised against the use of private vehicles or bikes. Between April and October, and provided that the weather and the water level are suitable, the pleasure boats sail up and down the Moldava River, affording spectacular views. Prague is a safe destination, provided that common sense is used. As is the case in many other popular tourist cities, pickpockets are the visitor’s main enemy, especially in overcrowded areas. One should be particularly careful in places like the Prague Castle – especially in the summer during the changing of the guard-, the Charles Bridge, the Old Town Square, at the entrance of the Old Jewish Cemetery, on the Wenceslao Square, in the main train station, at the airport and in packed metros and trams. Beware of false plain-clothed policemen, the so-called lost tourists who make the visitor’s head spin with questions and of women with babies who persistently ask you for money, since behind them tends to be the pickpocket, ready to spring into action as soon as the tourist is distracted. Nearly all the shops tend to be open from 8.30 am or 9 am until 5 pm or 6 pm on working days, and until 11 am or 1 pm on Saturdays, although since the city is so popular with tourists certain establishments will serve clients at any time.
MAIN EVENTS AND FESTIVITIES Three Kings’ Day On 6 January people celebrate the end of the Christmas period by singing carols, ringing bells and giving gifts to the most disadvantaged.
Witch Burning This pagan ritual to ward off evil, which takes place on 30 April, consists of the burning of brooms and of parties that take place at night around bonfires.
The Anniversary of the Death of Jan Palach On 19 January of every year Prague remembers this student from Charles University who protested against the Soviet occupation in 1969 by burning himself to death.
The Czech Uprising On 5 May the Czechs remember the anniversary of the uprising of the inhabitants of Prague against the Nazis in 1945.
Anniversary of the Birth of Tomá_ Garrigue Masaryk On 7 March people commemorate the first president and father of the country Czechoslovakia.
Liberation Day On 8 May they commemorate the anniversary of the liberation of Prague and the defeat of the Nazis in 1945. During the Communist period 9 May was celebrated, the date on which the Red Army entered the city.
Prague Spring Prague Spring is the most prestigious cultural event in the Czech capital. It lasts from 12 May until 4 June and consists of classical music concerts held in theatres, churches and historical buildings. Czech Statehood Day Celebrated on 28 September. Independence Day On 28 October the Czechs celebrate the anniversary of the foundation of the Czechoslovakian Republic in 1918, which today is seen as the date of the independence from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Christmas Many Czechs celebrate Christmas by eating carps which are sold, alive, in large washing-up basins in the streets. 4
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and 18th centuries were completed with new Baroque-style buildings that gave the neighbourhood its current charm. The Neruda Street (Nerudova ulice), the core of this district, comes out onto the Lesser Quarter Square, where the impressive St Nicholas Church stands (it shouldn’t be confused with other temples in the city with the same name). On this road you can admire the houses of the Two Suns, of the Golden Horseshoe and of the Three Violins, as well as the district’s first pharmacy, inaugurated in 1749 and today converted into the Museum of Historical Pharmacies. In the southern part of the Lesser Quarter, on the side of the Pet_ín hill, stands the Baroque Our Lady of Victory Church, the most renowned pilgrimage centre in the region of Bohemia. Built in 1613, it houses a Renaissance wax statuette of the Infant Jesus of Prague, which attracts millions of visitors and devotees. It is said that the statuette protected the city against the plague and destruction during the Thirty Year War. The wardrobe of the relic consists of 60 embroidered cloaks in different colours, donated by individuals and changed according to the religious calendar. The most prized of all is the cloak that was offered as a gift by Austrian empress María Teresa. Between one walk and the next it is worth stopping by the island of Kampa, the most peaceful and picturesque part of the Lesser Quarter, crosses by the Charles Bridge in the far north. This is where, in the 13th century, the city’s first mill was built. Next to it lies the Marksmen’s Island, which owes its name to its use as a military training field in the 16th century. Those who want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city can climb the Pet_ín hill, one of the largest green areas of the Czech capital. From its peak, situated at an altitude of 318 meters, it is easy to see why Prague is known as the “city of a hundred spires”. Less adventurous visitors can take the funicular up to the top of the hill.
Old Town (Staré M_sto)
In the 10th century a community settled on the east bank of the Moldava River. Over time, it became a part of the hamlet that had grown under the protection of the castle, joined by the bridge that preceded the Charles Bridge. From then on the Old Town, as the name suggests, the oldest part of the city, became known as the heart of Prague. The ramparts succumbed to the pressure of a city that refused to live closed in on itself, but today still its traces can be followed. All it takes is a stroll along the National Avenue (Národní) or the Moat (Na p_ikop_) and Revolution (Revolucní) streets. This area grew in the 14th century under the leadership of Charles IV and, at the same time, it rose on the banks of the Moldava, with the new Gothic buildings being built on the foundations of the Romanesque buildings, thereby avoiding the destruction caused by the cyclical floods. The Old Town Square –a crossroads of routes, the old market and the heart of the city’s political life- is the centre of this universe of medieval origin. In spite of the hoards of tourists that visit the historic centre every day –even in the rain or snow-, it is always worth wandering through this labyrinth of arcades and paved alleys, because you are bound to find a secluded spot, a silent chapel, a place to take a breath of fresh air and get ready to continue discovering the joys of the Czech capital.
Jewish Quarter (Josefov)
To the north of the Old Town Square, in a bend fenced in by the waters of the Moldava, lies the old Jewish quarter, a neighbourhood in which the past is still present through the synagogues and the cemetery, but which, at the same time, has been awoken by the establishment of modern and original shops, breathing new life into it. The neighbourhood was known as the area’s true centre of Judaism until the late 19th century, since after that, for sanitary reasons, its appearance changed through the construction of Art Nouveau-style buildings and wide avenues, like the Paris Avenue (Pa_í_ská t_ída). The most noteworthy buildings were preserved as a testimony of the history of the Jews of Prague, which is peppered with chiaroscuro. It grew as a ghetto and centuries later, in the times of the erudite Emperor Joseph II [1741-1790], discrimination was forbidden; the neighbourhood was called Josefov in his honour. In the mid-19th century its ramparts were knocked down and this area became a part of the city, like any other neighbourhood. The worst years were during the Nazi occupation, a period in which three quarters of its population, made up of roughly 120,000 people, were exterminated. In an act of grotesque irony, Hitler ordered certain monuments to be respected in order to convert them into the museum of an extinguished race. The Communist regime put an end to the area’s cultural life and many of the Holocaust survivors decided to emigrate. Despite everything, it is considered to be the most authentic Jewish quarter in Europe, since it still has six synagogues and the largest Jewish cemetery on the continent, which is tinged with melancholy. Services are still held in the Old-New Synagogue; the others have been converted into exhibition halls. This neighbourhood was particularly badly affected by the historic floods of August 2002.
Lesser Quarter (Malá strana)
Castle District (Hrad_any)
This neighbourhood runs from the Prague Castle to the Strahov Monastery and acquired the status of a city in 1320. It lies just above the Lesser Quarter and is sometimes seen as its extension. The heart of this residential area is in the Castle District Square (Hrad_anké nám_stí), which has been nearly perfectly preserved since the Middle Ages. The Schwarzenberg Palace, which has a striking façade, houses the Military History Museum, which includes a large collection of tin soldiers. Opposite stands the Rococo Archbishop’s Palace. The Loreto Street comes out onto the square with the same name (Loretánské nám_stí), anteroom of the Capuchin Loreto Monastery. This building, built between 1600 and 1602, is one of the most remarkable buildings in Prague and a centre of Marian Pilgrimage. The Baroque Palace opposite was used as the headquarters of the SS between 1939 and 1945, and is now occupied by the Ministry of Foreign Affaires of the Czech Republic. Numerous parks and gardens embellish the surroundings of this area, which affords a superb view over the metropolis.
New Town (Nové M_sto)
In spite of its name, this area situated to the south of the Old Town was only new when founded by Charles IV in 1348. Its main focus is the Wenceslao Square, a wide avenue lined with nineteenth-century buildings that lead to blocks with narrow pedestrian passages packed with shops, cafés and theatres. The most renowned Art Nouveau-style constructions in Prague can be found in this neighbourhood, dominated by the cyclopean National Museum. It is considered to be the Gothic suburb of the Old Town, which was later adapted to Baroque and Modernist tastes. It lacks the Bohemian atmosphere of other areas, but allows the visitor to enjoy the intense rhythm of life in the Czech capital, as well as the city’s most commercial side. There is no doubt as to which is the most spectacular building in the area: the church of Our Lady of the Snows. Charles IV wanted it to be the largest temple in the city, but it was left unfinished. Nevertheless, it is one of the city’s tallest and most significant churches, especially thanks to its altar.
High Castle (Vy_ehrad)
The High Castle competes with the city’s other castle thanks to its reputation as the mythical cradle of Prague, the location of the first settlement of Slavic tribes that gave rise to the splendid metropolis that it has today become. This area lies to the south of the New Town and is dominated by a walled bastion. On weekends the inhabitants of the Czech capital tend to come to the hill to enjoy a sunny afternoon with views over the Moldava River and the historic centre. Inside the walled construction stands the St Peter and St Paul Church, with its twin towers, added in 1903. In the nearby cemetery lie the remains of some of the country’s most prominent men, like the composer Smetana and the writer Jan Neruda. Adventurers who have climbed this hill should make sure not to miss some of the best cubist buildings in Prague, the most noteworthy of which is the Villa Libu_e, on Vnislavova Street, close to the banks of the Moldava River.
From the Old Town all you have to do is cross the Moldava River over the Charles Bridge to enter a world of extremely narrow and winding alleys, Baroque buildings and churches and steep hills that lead you to Prague’s castle. This neighbourhood, which lies at the foot of one of Europe’s biggest fortresses, is the most picturesque of the metropolis. Period films have been filmed in its paved streets. Not surprisingly, given the fact that its appearance has hardly changed since the mid-18th century. The area, which houses the Parliament’s headquarters as well as several embassies, is packed with palaces with hidden gardens and has some of Prague’s best restaurants. The centre grew around a market in the 8th or 9th century. Otakar II granted it the privileges of a city in 1257. Later, it nearly disappeared off the map during the battles between the Hussites and the garrison of the castle (1419) and in the great fire of 1541. The destroyed houses were replaced with other Renaissance-style houses that in the 17th 5
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has been one of the biggest and most harmonic public spaces in Europe, and has today become a meeting point for millions of tourists. Until a century ago this monumental square housed the city’s main market, currently replaced by a great variety of handicraft stalls, street musicians and horse drawn carriages waiting for clients. Nearly all the episodes of the history of Prague, such as executions and proclamations, took place on this spot lined with Baroque and Neo-Renaissance façades. During the summer, restaurants put out their tables, while in December the square welcomes the city’s biggest Christmas market. It is presided over by the commemorative monument of the religious reformer Jan Hus. The nearby brass strip that runs along the ground is known as the Prague meridian and marks kilometre zero. All the palaces, houses and churches that surround the square are of historical interest. The Town Hall of the Old Town dates back to the 14th century and every sixty minutes draws the attention of the public to its astronomical clock, which marks the hours. Its figures symbolise vanity, greed, death and paganism, as well as a chronicler, an angel, an astronomer and a philosopher. Every hour, death rings the bell and turns over its hourglass, while the twelve Apostles parade in front of the windows that open just above the clock, greeting the crowds with their heads. Besides the ingenious mechanics, it is worth paying to climb the 60 meter high tower, which affords interesting views.
Prague Castle
This immense fortress, the most visited monument in the Czech capital, can be admired from anywhere in the city thanks to its elevated position. At least half a day is needed to visit the many rooms, churches, galleries and gardens that make up this construction, which in size is similar to seven football fields. It dates back to the year 870, when Prince Bo_ivoj ordered it to be built as the main residence of the Premyslid dynasty. The fortress grew through the extensions ordered by the different monarchs, which explains the mixture of different architectural styles. The main door is guarded by a guard who is relieved every hour in a ceremony that always attracts hundreds of tourists. The Baroque Matthias door takes you to an interior courtyard that is presided over by a fountain and a 17th century well with Renaissance lattice work. The building on the far north of the courtyard is the Prague Castle Gallery, where a collection of paintings and sculptures from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries is exhibited, with works by Rubens, Tiziano and Tintoretto. A pathway goes around the gallery and across the Pólvora Bridge, built in 1540. From here you can see the Royal Gardens, a green area situated on the other side of the moat. The garden’s most beautiful building, the Ball Game Hall, is only open to the public for exhibitions or special events. The Hapsburgs used to play a primitive version of badminton on this spot. Back at the centre of the premises another interior courtyard can be accessed, home of the St Vitus Cathedral, the country’s largest religious temple, with a spire that rises to a height of 97 meters. Its first stone was placed in 1344 and it was built in a Gothic-style, although over time Baroque and Renaissance features were added. The works were not completed until 1929. The fronts of the temple are decorated with historical and biblical scenes, while inside the cathedral the stained glass windows stand out. Among the many side chapels the San Wenceslao chapel shines with its own light, thanks to the hundreds of semiprecious stones set in its golden walls. The presbytery contains the richly decorated royal mausoleum. On clear days it is worth climbing the 297 steps of the Great Tower to enjoy the spectacular panoramic views and admire the mechanism of the clock, which dates from 1597. Next to the St Vitus Ca7
thedral stands the Old Royal Palace, one of the oldest parts of the fortress, as well as St George’s Basilica and the convent with the same name. The Gold and Ji_ská streets pass the far eastern part of the castle. The first, which runs parallel to the northern wall, is lined with small picturesque houses that were built in the 16th century as the guards’ quarters and which were later turned into souvenir shops. Writer Franz Kafka lived in one of these houses between 1916 and 1917.
Charles Bridge
Photographed day and night by hundreds of tourists, the Charles Bridge has resisted wars, the flooding of the Moldava River, the impact of road traffic and the inexorable passing of time for more than 600 years. Its construction started in 1357 as part of the monumental programme of Charles IV, which also included the Prague Castle, the St Vitus Cathedral and the university. All those works were supervised by the architect Peter Parler. The pedestrian bridge, one of the symbols of the Czech capital, affords extraordinary views in an atmosphere that is always festive, livened up by street sellers and artists. All this, under the attentive
stone look of the thirty or so impressive Baroque statues, placed there by the Jesuits during the Counter-Reformation. During the summer it is possible to climb the towers on both sides, built for its protection. The most elegant of the two, the Gothic tower of the Old Town Bridge, is considered to be the main entrance into the historic centre. This is where the Swedish troops were forced to retreat when confronted with the force of a group of brave youngsters at the end of the Thirty Year War. The first and also the most famous statue –placed there in 1683 in honour of John Nepomuceno, the patron saint of the Czechs- inspired the rest. Since nearly all the figures were made of sandstone, some of the originals that were most damaged over time were replaced with copies. St John of Matha and St Felix of Valois, French founders of the Trinitarian Order; St Adalberto, the first Czech bishop of Prague; St Judas Tadeo, apostle and patron saint of desperate causes; and St Christopher, patron saint of travellers, are some of the lucky figures that are guaranteed a spot on the Charles Bridge until eternity.
Old Town Square
Since the 10th century the heart of Prague
The St Nicholas Church has occupied the north-eastern corner of the square since the early 18th century. Chamber music concerts are occasionally held in this small temple, which is exquisitely decorated. The city’s most famous writer was born in the adjoining house, which today hosts the Franz Kafka Exhibition. The Kinsk_ch Palace’s Rococo façade is probably the most noteworthy of its kind in Prague, and in February 1948 the Communist regime of Czechoslovakia was proclaimed on its balcony. Next door stands the 14th century Stone Bell House. Just off the square you can admire the spires of the T_n Church, Gothic in style and with an excessively ornate interior dominated by the immense Rococo altar.
Old Jewish Cemetery
The Old Jewish Cemetery is a perfect place to enjoy a moment of peace after the hustle and bustle of the Charles Bridge or the Old Town Square. An atmosphere of mourning hangs over this graveyard, which was closed in 1787. It represents a monument to dignity, a silent tribute to the thousands of Jews killed during the Nazi occupation. About 12,000 gravestones can be seen, but there are probably another 100,000 or so graves layered one on top of the other underneath them because of the lack of space. They are nearly all marked with the name of the deceased, his or her father, the date on which he or she died and poetic texts. Certain tombs have bas-reliefs and
sculptures that represent the profession and lineage of the deceased. The oldest gravestone still standing –replaced with a replica- is that of Avigdor Karo, a chief rabbi and court poet of Wenceslao IV, which dates from 1439. There is no point in looking for Kafka here; his remains were transferred to the new cemetery built on the outskirts of Prague. Nevertheless, his spirit seems to live on among the chaos of the stelas and stones placed there by the families of the deceased.
Municipal House
The Municipal House is the crown jewel of the Art Nouveau style – a Modernist trend-, which is very well represented in the Czech capital. Prague’s Town Council occupies the site of the Royal Court, the headquarters of Bohemia between 1383 and 1483, which was demolished at the end of the 19th century. Between 1906 and 1912 this building was built in its place, the fruit of the collaboration of about thirty of the best artists of the time, and an architectural emblem of the Czech national resurgence. The mosaic of the main door hints at the splendour that reigns inside, where all the decorative details, including the handles, are Art Nouveau in style. This is where the independence of the Czechoslovakian Republic was proclaimed on 28 October 1918, and it is also the venue of the annual concert that opens the Prague Spring, the most prestigious music festival of the metropolis.
Wenceslao Square
Like the Old Town Square, this square has witnessed a large part of the Czech history, from mass gatherings (1848) to clashes between the police and demonstrators (1989). Today it has become a busy avenue with good samples of the architecture of the last 150 years, standing in the midst of cafés, fast-food restaurants, taxis, luxury shops and expensive hotels. The most beautiful building on the square is the Art Nouveaustyle Grand Hotel Europa. The balcony of No. 36, the Melantrich building, is where the end of Czechoslovakia’s Communist regime was proclaimed, while the façades of No. 34, the Wiehl House, are decorated with Neo-Renaissance-style murals. The far end of the square is presided over by the enormous National Museum, which exhibits collections dedicated to palaeontology, geology, zoology and anthropology. The spectacular main staircase is made of serpentine and polished limestone. The façade shows bullet holes from when the Warsaw Pact troops confused the museum with the old National Assembly or with the radio station at the height of the crushing of the Prague Spring, in 1968.
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SHOWS
La oferta es muy amplia, aunque varía en función de la época del año. La música está muy presente en toda la ciudad y alcanza sus máximas cotas durante la celebración del festival de la Primavera de Praga. Siempre se ha considerado como una parte importante de la educación y, desde su fundación, a finales del siglo XVIII, el Conservatorio de Praga ha sido una de las mejores escuelas del mundo. Los aficionados al deporte y al teatro tampoco tienen motivos para aburrirse durante su estancia.
Theatres
Laterna Magika National Avenue, 4 224 931 482 www.laterna.cz The city’s most renowned stage hosts dance, opera, music and cinema events. The futurist, glass building in which it is located is situated next to the National Theatre. Estates Theatre Ovocn_ trh, 1 224 901 638 Nearly all the plays shown here are in Czech, which can be an obstacle for tourists.
OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST The Old-New Synagogue
This construction with rich stone decorations is thought to be the oldest synagogue still holding services in Central Europe, and one of the city’s first Gothic buildings. The temple was rebuilt on several occasions. Men who would like to admire the inside of the synagogue, which over the last 500 years has hardly changed, have to wear a hat or headscarf. On the east wall is the arch that contains the Torá, the Holy Scriptures with the first five books of the Bible.
Pinkas Synagogue
After the Second World War this Jewish temple was converted into a monument to the Jews of Bohemia and Moravia killed by the Nazis. The names of the 77,297 victims, as well as their personal details and the community to which each one of them belonged, are written on its walls, forming an impressive curtain of names in red, yellow and black: Rosenfeld, Max; Weinstein Marta; Zinakanova, Vilémina… On the first floor of the building you can see some of the drawings of the 10,000 children held 9
prisoner in the concentration camp of Terezín between 1942 and 1944; a moving testimony of their cruel fate and just about all that remains of those who did not survive. The synagogue was badly damaged in the floods of August 2002 and, as a result, was closed for more than a year for works.
The Dancing Building
In the New Town, at the place where the Resslova Street comes out onto the river, stands the famous building built in 1996 by the architects Vlado Miluni_ and Frank O. Gehry. The curving lines of the slender glass tower and the wavy shapes of the building are striking. When he was elected President of the country in December 1989, Václav Havel decided to live in the attic of No. 78 instead of in the Prague Castle.
St Nicholas Church
This church is the building that best represents the Small Town, and it stands on the main square of that neighbourhood, which lies at the foot of the Prague Castle. The enormous green-coloured dome of this Ba-
roque temple stands out among the rooftops. Its ceiling is decorated with an enormous fresco that dates back to 1770.
Celetné Theatre Celetná, 17 222 326 843 www.divadlovceletne.cz This theatre puts on both classical and contemporary Czech plays, as well as certain foreign plays in Czech.
Music
An endless number of venues offer all types of live music: rock, jazz, punk, rap… Here is a list of just a few of those venues to give you a taste of what’s on offer: Club 007 Strahov www.klub007strahov.cz Beer at good prices and disco, punk and rock music. Batalion www.batalion.cz Attracts a young and mainly local crowd. Reduta Jazz Club www.redutajazzclub.cz The oldest jazz club in the Czech capital –founded in 1958- with live music every day of the week.
Opera and ballet
The two main halls for opera and ballet are the Prague State Opera (www.opera.cz) and the National Theatre.
Cinema
AC Sparta Praha Stadium (Milady Horákové, 98) SK Slavia Praha Stadium (Diska_ská, 100) Ice hockey is another of the national sports. The city’s two most important teams are HC Sparta Praha and HC Slavia Praha. The season starts in September and ends in early April. It is possible to see Sparta play in the T-Mobile Aréna Stadium (Za Elektrárnou, 419), while to enjoy a game by Slavia you have to go to the Zimní stadión Eden Stadium (Vladivostocká, 10). The Prague International Marathon was held for the first time in 1989 and ever since has been an established annual event on the European athletics calendar. It tends to take place towards the middle or end of May and attracts more foreign than Czech runners. A semi-marathon is also held towards the end of March. People who would like to participate should contact the organising company, Prague International Marathon (www.pim.cz).
Prague has more than 30 cinemas. With the exception of Hollywood blockbusters, which are sometimes dubbed, films tend to be shown in their original language with Czech subtitles.
Sport
Slavia Praha and Sparta Praha are the two main teams in the national football league and they each have their own stadium. Matches tend to be on Sunday afternoons and the season lasts from August until December and from February until June.
John Lennon Wall
This curious corner can be found to the south of the Our Lady of the Chain Church, opposite the French embassy. During the Communist regime many citizens scrawled messages on this wall, expressing their longing for liberty and democracy. After the assassination of the singer in 1980, John Lennon became the torchbearer of pacifism. Someone painted his portrait on the wall and later the lyrics of some of the Beatles’ songs were added. In spite of their efforts, the secret police never managed to keep this wall free of graffiti for long. The years and the subsequent graffiti erased all traces of the original political messages and of the portrait of Lennon. The wall was painted white in 1998, but was soon covered with scrawls again, including several poorer quality portraits of the composer from Liverpool. In 2003 his widow, Yoko Ono, visited this area of Prague and wrote a message of love and peace on the wall, and lit a candle in memory of Lennon.
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