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Intro San Francisco: The perfect bay
HISTORICAL NOTES bmoving Getting around San Francisco
EATING
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Main Festivals
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san francisco’S AREAS
san francisco
bsan francisco SHOWS
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HistoricalNotes C
San Francisco: The perfect bay T
he United States, the most influential country in the world, has three cities that are quite different to its other large urban areas. New York, New Orleans and San Francisco. Partly because of this, their importance – both geographic and metaphoric – is seen as a changing mosaic of cultures and styles within a world of contradictions that enhance the attraction of their importance. An essential point of reference for America’s counter-culture, San Francisco looks over the Pacific like a beacon of art and technology, acting as a welcoming point for Asian, Latin American and European immigrants. Its classic symbols – the Golden Gate, the suspension bridge par excellence, Alcatraz prison, the steep streets and cable cars – merge perfectly with the Victorian houses of Alamo Square and what remains of the old fishing port, Fisherman’s Warf. “The Perfect Bay”, as Robert Stevenson defined it, stretches over gentle hills. It is famed for its refined 1
and tolerant appearance as well as for being a very clean city. A mecca for the beat generations in the 50s, for the hippies in the 60s and later for the gay community,
the city has always drawn those who find it hard to share the American way of life. Welcome to one of the most enchanting and picturesque cities of North America.
A practical guide The information provided below does not pretend to cover the whole city; rather, it focuses on the more interesting areas for visitors. You should bear in mind that San Francisco offers a wide variety of attractions, some of which are located in surrounding areas – such as Sausalito, Berkeley, Oakland and 49 Mile Scenic Drive, an interesting scenic route signposted by a seagull icon. Here, we look at some of the better-known attractions in the city as well as some of the areas that may go unnoticed but which enable the visitor to capture the essence of the city and feel its everyday pulse.
ertain Native American tribes – the miwok, wintum, yokut and ohlone Indians – lived here for centuries before the first European settlers arrived. Explorers like the Portuguese João Cabrilho and the English Francis Drake plied the Californian coast in the 16th century, though none of them found the bay that was hidden behind the straits of the Golden Gate. The first Spanish military post was not established until 1776, with a Franciscan mission being built alongside it whose purpose was to convert the native population to Christianity. The settlement was founded on 29 June of that year, with the celebration of a Mass. After Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, the Mexican government secularised the missions and granted part of their lands to the Indians, who would later lose them to landowners. Imported diseases, such as measles and smallpox did the rest – so that, what was once an incipient town turned into a virtually abandoned run-down village. Whalers, merchants, adventurers, pirates and sailors put in at San Francisco, drowning their sorrows at the old mission, which by then had been turned into a tavern. Who could have thought that in just two years that small port surrounded by barely 30 houses would go from 500 to 20,000 inhabitants?
Gold - rush fever When, in 1848 carpenter James W. Marshall discovered the first gold nugget while inspecting a water channel, nobody could have imagined the tremendous impact it would have. Published in the papers, the news spread around the country and around the whole world in just a few weeks. The following year, 100,000 fortunehunters arrived in California – known since then as the 49ers. Thousands of poor people on the east coast made the big trip across the American Mid-West or took boat trips via the Panama isthmus to the Pacific coast. San Francisco’s multicultural, avant-garde, fun and rebellious spirit started in that crazy era, which effectively meant the complete re-establishment of the city. As the population grew, the network of streets extended westwards until it occupied the whole peninsula. In 1850, California became the 31st state of the Union and within four years, the flourishing San Francisco had 500 taverns and 20 theatres. In 1859, when it seemed that the underground riches were running out, a second wave of hunters arrived, this time drawn by the greatest seam of silver in history. This increased the prosperity of the city, turning it into the financial capital of the west coast. At the end of the 19th century, the city had established itself as a
highly important port and a major stop on the transcontinental railway. By then, its population was close to 300,000.
Devastating earthequake But San Francisco’s history has not always been a bed of roses. As well as the violence, gambling, prostitution and racism towards Chinese immigrants in the gold-rush years, we must add one of the worst natural disasters ever to strike an American city. the Big One, the earthquake of 18 April 1906, which destroyed hundreds of buildings and set off fires that devastated the centre leaving 250,000 people homeless. Ten intense years were needed to complete the reconstruction. The Great Depression that followed the 1929 stock market crash battered the city. The city used major construction projects to build itself out of the situation – such as the Golden Gate Bridge that links San Francisco with Oakland. During the Second World War, the city prospered as a centre for American military operations in the Pacific and from the 1950s, many of those deprived by the system were received by the city along with bohemian types disenchanted with conformism, led by Ginsberg, Kerouac and co. Part of the population suffered from the effects of AIDS and begging in subsequent years as well as a new quake in 1989.
Who could have thought that in just two years that small port surrounded by barely 30 houses would go from 500 to 20,000 inhabitants? Book Restaurants, Shows and Activities with simple call +34 932 547 268 2
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Eating Seafood and good wine C
Getting around San Francisco Useful advice I
n few cities in the world is travelling about part of the charm of a visit as much as it is in San Francisco. Travelling about the city is a pleasure in itself, an additional reason for exploring each of the places around the bay. You should first bear in mind that the United States has several time zones. The time in San Francisco is GMT – 8 hours. The climate is coastal and similar to the Mediterranean with moderate temperatures throughout the year. Ocean breezes mean gentle summers and winters without extremes of temperature. It is advisable, however, always to carry an overcoat as the cold wind can blow at any time of year. Comfortable shoes are also recommended for walking. The fog is another frequent visitor to the city and is especially magical when it surrounds the Golden Gate. The humid winds of the Pacific meet the cold bay currents on the hills of San Francisco, causing condensation and banks of fog – particularly in the afternoons and summer nights. They can cause the temperatures to drop as low as 10ºC. September and October are the sunniest months of the year and the mercury generally stays at around 18ºC throughout the year. The wet season tends to be from November to March, sometimes with rain for several days at a time. The driest season is from May to September. San Francisco is a fairly compact metropolis, which makes moving around easy. In addition, many of the places of interest are close to each other. Added to this is a 3
extensive, reliable and easy-to-use transport system, which extends far beyond the well-known cable car system. Therefore it is best to forget using a private car. It is not normally easy to get a taxi on the street, so it is advisable to call one from a hotel or restaurant. Rush hour is 7 am to 9 am and 4 pm to 7pm, Monday to Friday. At these times, it is worth walking as this is always the best way to explore the city. The slopes can make things difficult but the fantastic views from the hills make the effort worthwhile. Cycling is becoming more popular as is obvious from the network of bike lanes. The San Francisco Municipal Railway (www.sfmta.com), better known as “Muni”, is the city’s public transport system management body. It operates 80 bus and tram routes providing a service to all districts and many tourist places of interest. This body, established in 1912, is one of the oldest in the United States and handles more than 200 million passenger journeys a year. Buses, the most practical means of transport, make stops every two or three blocks. Cable cars are a good alternative for visitors. They operate both above and below ground in the centre. In the outlying areas, they operate only at street level. It is worth buying a pass, the Muni Passport, which is valid on all lines including the cable cars. The lines most used by tourists are the 15, 30, 39, 45 and 47 and the historic Market and Wharves line. The most exciting cable car descent is the final stretch of the Powell-Hyde line; it is also
the most popular as it offers great views of Chinatown. Braver travellers hang on to a rail while standing on the car’s outside platform. The San Francisco peninsular and the east of the bay are reached by the Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART), a system that covers a 165 km network with a fleet of high-speed trains with disabled access. Ferries, which were essential before the Golden Gate and Bay bridges were constructed, connect numerous points in the bay such as the island of Alcatraz, Sausalito, Tiburón and Vallejo. They offer a very pleasant way of viewing the coast.
ooking here is closely connected to the ocean and the city’s docks, where seafood is the main attraction. Seafood soup, for example, is served more or less creamy sometimes in a bread roll, known as sourdough bread. The moisture and temperature conditions required to give this bread its crustiness and sour taste are so exclusive to the area that they have not been produced elsewhere. Like its peoples, the restaurant menus in San Francisco offer a mix of all kinds of flavours and smells – from beef Wellington, with its layer of foie gras and eaten with a California wine; Mexican tacos; as well as dim sum, a typical Chinese lunch dish based on small
steamed or fried dumplings filled with fish, meat or vegetables. A typical thing to do is to go to one of the docks, especially Pier 39, and try different specialities, especially swordfish, lobster, clam, salmon, trout, sole and tuna. Italian, Chinese and Mexican influences are obvious at the table, and the wines from Napa and Sonoma in the north of the city must be sampled. Among the recommended reds are Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. For whites, the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc stand out. Most Californian wines are made from classic European grape varieties. However, unlike wines from the Old Continent, they are identified by type of grape rather than
by where they originate. Beer, coffee and Napa Valley mineral water are also popular. Italian cuisine is especially found in the North Beach area, whereas Latin American food is concentrated mostly in the Mission District. In Chinatown, Asian restaurants abound: Cambodian, Thai, Vietnamese and, of course, Chinese. The numerous taco restaurants offer some of the cheapest, most filling and fastest meals in San Francisco. Another meal is the Dungeness crab which is prepared in a variety of very different ways: it may be in pasta dishes or in spring rolls. Dairy and goat’s cheeses are also excellent. The same is true for chocolate.
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As regards safety, San Francisco is not a dangerous city although you should watch out for pickpockets in the centre and in busy areas. At night, it is worth avoiding certain areas such as Tenderloin near Union Square Western Addition to the west of the Civic Center and south of Japantown, and Mission District. Do not forget that San Francisco is on the San Andreas fault, right in the middle of the seismic region. If you feel an earthquake, you should stand in a doorway or get under a table, and keep away from windows. If outdoors, it is advisable to move away from buildings, trees and electricity cables. Most business open from 9 am to 5pm weekdays. Tipping is not obligatory, though it is normal to leave 15% in restaurants, taxis and hairdressers. Hotel bellboys and porters expect to be given a dollar or so for their services.
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bhappy Chinese New Year
The date of this festival varies but it is usually between the end of January and the start of February. Street parades are held, led by giant colourful dragons with fireworks being let off in Chinatown and the Financial District. Miss Chinatown USA is also chosen.
St Patrick’s Day
Homage is paid to the patron saint of Ireland on the Sunday closest to 17 March, with street parades down Market Street. The atmosphere in the bars is unbeatable.
Cherry Blossom Festival
Between the middle and end of April, parades and food, musical and artisan exhibitions are organised during this Japanese fair which takes place in the Japan Centre.
Mexican Cultural Festival
Activities include parades and artisan, food and traditional music exhibitions, held in the Civic Center and Mission District to commemorate the Mexican victory in Puebla.
Carnival
This is a festival that has a marked Latin American flavour to it, held in the last week of May. The salsa and reggae bands liven things up in the Mission District, where a big parade assembles.
Bay to Breakers Race
This mix of athletic trial and fancy-dress
parade revolutionises the city at the end of May. Around 80,000 people run the 12.5 kilometres between the Ferry Building and Ocean Beach.
North Beach Festival
Art, music and crafts come out into the streets of this Italian district in the middle of June.
Gay Pride
San Francisco’s most important event – and largest of its kind in the United States - takes place on the last Sunday of June, with more than 300,000 people taking part in the parade that goes through the Castro district and down Market Street to the Civic Center.
4th of July Fireworks
These can be enjoyed from Crissy Field as part of the commemoration of the country’s independence.
Marathon
At the end of July or beginning of August, around 3500 brave souls leave the Golden Gate Bridge to complete the 42 kilometre run through the city.
Blues Festival
The last weekend of September provides the opportunity to enjoy this outdoor music festival at Fort Mason and Justin Herman Plaza.
Castro Street Fair
One of the most important and deeplyrooted festivals in the city is held on the first Sunday of October in the areas around Castro and Market Streets.
San Francisco’s: Areas
Columbus Day Parade
Goes along Columbus Avenue and ends up at Fisherman’s Wharf, on the Sunday closest to 12 October.
Halloween
On 31October, thousands of people dress up and take to Market and Castro Streets. This is an important event for the gay community, which excels with outlandish outfits on this autumn night.
Jazz Festival
This is held in various halls at the end of October or beginning of November.
All Souls’ Day
Mexican celebration with an evening parade and other events in Mission District. Takes place on 2 November.
Fisherman’s Wharf: the old fishing port Although the docks hardly resemble those of long ago, which lived largely from the fish, it is worth strolling along the promenades to take in the views of the bay, be enraptured by the outline of the Golden Gate and sound out the city atmosphere. This neighbourhood has been overly commercialised with dozens of restaurants and souvenir shops but offers ideal entertainment for children in the many attractions installed along the wharf, especially on Pier 39. Among the more unusual attractions is a visit to the Second World War submarine USS Pampanito as well as some of the museums. The Italian seafood restaurants and the brightly painted boats – some still working – are other draws in this area, which is also the starting point for cruise boats that put in at Alcatraz. The pavement artists perform among the crowds at all hours, so it is worth taking a break now and again and go into the Wax Museum for example, where 300 life-size wax representations of personalities from the past and present are on display - from sportspeople to presidents, and stars of the silver screen such as Marilyn Monroe and Leonardo DiCaprio. Here is also the Museum of the City of San Francisco which explores the city’s past. The extension of the sea wall began in 1853 when Henry Meiggs constructed a half -kilometre dock before embezzling a fortune and fleeing to South America where he made a fortune from the construction of a railway line. The heart of Fishermans Wharf is where Taylor and Jefferson streets meet, where
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the terraces of the seafood restaurants offer the best views of the fishing fleet is moored in the docks, a vestige of the Genoese and Sicilian boats that worked in these waters from the middle of the 19th century. The fishing arts contrast with the rhythm of life of a modern metropolis like San Francisco. To enjoy another view of the past, also related to the sea, head for the Hyde Street dock where you can admire the five sailing boats that form part of the San Francisco Maritime Historical Park. These include the excellent Balclutha, constructed in Scotland in 1886 - this three-mast, 100-metre boat used to transport coal and whisky from Europe, returning to the Old Continent with wheat. Also in this neighbourhood is the old Ghirardelli chocolate factory, which was converted in 1964 into restaurants and shops, and finished off with a picturesque Clock Tower, inspired by a French chateau.
North Beach: Little Italy in California This district, one of the most popular among San Franciscans, is a kind of Little Italy, with its pizzerias, ice cream shops, café with terraces and restaurants. The love of food, devotion to wine and the joy of good company can be appreciated on every table, all in an almost Mediterranean setting. Chilean, Peruvian and Italian immigrants of the 20th century and members of the beat generation who lived in this area in the 1950s have left their mark among the seafood restaurants and bohemia. Nevertheless, the weight of Italian tradition gives way to all things Parisian in aspects such as the layout of the streets and the appearance of the buildings. A visit to the
City Lights book shop, owned by the poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, is almost obligatory. It specialises in books on the city and the work of the beatniks, who used to meet in the adjacent Vesuvio, a café that still maintains a certain flavour. The side street that separates the shop and the café is called – what else? – Jack Kerouac. Racial and sexual freedom, pillars of the beat philosophy, reaches its maximum expression in the area around Broadway, known as The Strip due to the proliferation of nudist bars and adult bookshops, vestiges of the old, rabble San Francisco of dives and brothels from the gold-rush days. Washington Square Park, the green heart and lungs of North Beach, is flanked by historic buildings as well as the neo-gothic church of Saints Peter and Paul. The beauty of this church - known as the Italian cathedral really comes into its own when lit at night.
Telegraph Hill: ridges and viewing posts North Beach climbs in the direction of this 90-metre-high headland from where the whole bay can be taken in. This wealthy neighbourhood of pastel-coloured wooden houses, crowned by Coit Tower takes the name of the telegraph installed on its summit in 1850 to alert merchants of boats arriving from Golden Gate. Some of the slopes in the eastern part of this district emerge via staircases, such as Greenwich and Filbert, both surrounded by rhododendrons, bougainvillaea, ferns, grapevines and blackberry bushes. The enchantment of the Victorian houses is completed with narrow streets such as Napier Lane, wooden boardwalks and houses that are preserved almost intact from the 19th century. 6
Another of the nerve centres of this area is Levi’s square, designed in 1982 in honour of the jeans manufacturer, Levi Strauss. These highly resistance trousers started to be manufactured for the first time in San Francisco at the height of the gold rush. The square reminds us of the history of this Californian company, the first to use metal rivets to strengthen the seams of the garments.
– and the side streets between Grant Avenue and Stockton Street with the colourful overlooking balconies and traditional restaurants. The gate into Chinatown, which is the most photographed access point in the district, opens on to Union Square and separates two almost-opposite worlds.
Russian Hill: the world’s most winding road
Located right on Powell Street, Union Square is a large square that is flanked by some notable buildings such as Westin St Francis Hotel, which dates from 1904. This establishment, the second oldest in San Francisco, has welcomed many wellknown personalities. Dashiell Hammett’s The Maltese Falcon, takes place in its rooms as does the film of the same name, starring Humphrey Bogart. The lobby and restaurant are impressive. But the financial centre of the city has other astonishing buildings including Transamerica Pyramid – the pointed skyscraper that competes with the Golden Gate Bridge as a symbol of the bay. The head offices of the main banks and lawyers’ offices that dominate the city skyline are found in this area: Bank of America, Union Bank of California, First Interstate Center… An urban programme in recent decades breathed new life into the steel and glass. This is the Embarcadero Center, made up of four office towers of offices connected together with walkway bridges including the impressive 17-storey lobby of the Hyatt Regency Hotel.
This family neighbourhood complete with views of the maritime coast attracts tourists from all round the world, for one main reason: it has the world’s most winding street, Lombard Street, which has eight curves and can only be travelled downwards. With inclines of up to 30%, it is not difficult to understand why few people lived here until the arrival of the tram in 1880.
Nob Hill: luxury and dreams views This is a highly exclusive residential area full of luxury houses and hotels such as the Huntington, the Fairmont, the Stanford Court and the Mark Hopkins. It extends over a hill from which it dominates a large part of the city and is known particularly for its trams.
Chinatown: the world of the Orient The famous Chinese district, the city landscape of so many unforgettable films and one of the best-known in the world, accommodates a wide selection of oriental businesses: magnificent restaurants, shops selling Asian products, herbalist’s shops, palm readers and astrologists… a stroll through its streets will virtually transport visitors to China. It is worth getting up early and nosing around the fish and seafood market or the Clement Street market, between Sixth and Seventh Avenues. Undoubtedly, the best way of exploring this corner of the metropolis, its most densely populated, is on foot. Or by tram - a means of transport that forms part of the hectic atmosphere of the city with buildings replete with Chinese characters and faces. The locals normally gather at Portsmouth Square to chat or play cards. Meanwhile Grant Avenue is the main tourist and commercial axis with its red Chinese lanterns, decorative dragons and pagodas with raised roof-eaves to chase away evil spirits. This avenue is distinguished for being the first in Yerba Buena, the town that preceded San Francisco. The Tin How temple should not be missed, the oldest in the United States – built in 1852 7
Financial District: in the shade of skyscrapers
Civic Center and SoMa: the administrative centre This area contains the best set of meaux arts buildings in the country such the City Hall, constructed in 1915 to replace the building that had been levelled by the huge earthquake of 1906; the Public Library; the War Memorial Opera House – housing San Francisco’s Ballet and Opera centre; and the Veteran’s Building, where the founding charter of the United Nations was signed in 1945. The arts also play a fundamental role in this district, which includes the Asian Art Museum, displaying 15,000 objects covering 6000 years of history, as well as the Yerba Buena Gardens. This latter city space began with the construction of the Moscone Center, San Francisco’s largest congress centre, complete with gardens, homes, hotels and art galleries. We cannot forget a leading space such as the San Francisco Museum of Modern Arts (SFMOMA). The city’s cultural landmarks are completed in the SoMA (South of Market) area where the Cartoon Art Museum is located – essential for cartoon lovers – as well as the Adams Center for Photography. To round off any tour around this district,
the most-photographed row of Victorian houses is not to be missed. It occupies the east side of Alamo Square, a garden square that offers fantastic panoramic views of the City Hall and the skyscrapers of the Financial District in the background.
Mission: the Hispanic district Located south of Market Street and far from the tourist hubbub is the Latin Quarter. The area takes its name from the Misión Dolores, founded here by Brother Junípero Serra. You can visit the building and eat tacos and Salvadoran specialities around the junction of Valencia and 16th streets. This is one of the city blocks where those large protest walls that proliferate in San Francisco are given shape, which gives it a picturesque and neglected air.
Castro: the gay district Delimited by Market, Noe, 20th, Diamond and 17th Streets, this looks like any other well-to-do district, but with the difference that it is the heart of the gay community. Colour pervades everywhere, especially in Castro Street, the commercial axis of the district, where the 1970s hedonism reached its maximum expression. The historic Castro Theater is not to be missed.
Haight Ashbury: Victorian houses
Its air of exclusivity intensified after the earthquake and fires of 1906, when the wealthy families who had lost their homes in Nob Hill moved to this other hill. The Japanese-American community resides in the area known as Japantown, south of Pacific Heights. This neighbourhood was deserted during the Second World War, as its Japanese residents were locked up in internment camps. In the 1960s, several blocks of Victorian houses were knocked down to make way for the Japan Center,
The Golden Gate Bridge This is the true symbol of the city and is considered one of the largest suspension bridges in the world and a landmark in the history of engineering. It extends 2.74 km over the bay of San Francisco, connecting the metropolis with Marin County. It has six lanes for traffic and two paths for pedestrians. Its red structure, always on the horizon, contrasts with the green of the adjacent hills and the blue of the ocean water, lined with boats and, on occasion, whales. The fog, very common here, give it a magic halo creating a scene normally associated with a surrealist painting. The bridge can appear to be suspended in the air with its twin towers emerging through
a cultural and commercial focal point in a marked oriental style.
Presidio: at the foot of the Golden Gate Lovers of open spaces will not want to miss this corner of San Francisco, with its incomparable views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the straits of the bay. Located in the far north-east and founded as a military detachment, in 1994 it was transferred
the fog. This elegant silhouette is built to withstand strong currents, surges and gales of up to 160 km per hour as well as earthquakes such as the 1989 Loma Prieta which destroyed other infrastructures like the Oaklands Cypress freeway. The bridge was constructed between 1933 and 1937 under the direction of engineer Joseph Strauss, and created thousands of jobs during the Great Depression. The budget of 35 million dollars was adhered to. Divers were recruited to dynamite the floor of the bay, where 30metre-deep foundations were needed for the towers. To appreciate the full extent of this engineering masterpiece, the bridge
to the United States National Park Service. It has grass areas, woods, vestiges of the military, crags and Baker Beach, the best beach in the city, surrounded by pine trees and cypresses. Beware though, the cold water and strong currents of the Pacific are not for swimming in. With more than 400 historic buildings, the Presidio area is also an open-air museum of architecture from the last century, with the California Palace of the Legion of Honor and the Palace of Fine Arts being its finest examples.
should be crossed on foot, though this is not recommended for people who suffer from vertigo. A jacket as protection against the wind is essential. Sunday mornings are a good time to give the walk a go, because at other times the high levels of traffic spoil the enjoyment of the trip. Around 120,000 vehicles use this stretch of toll motorway. There are a number of alternatives for viewing the bridge from other angles: from Vista Point, on the Marin side, the best views of the Golden Gate and San Francisco can be had. Meanwhile at the other end at Fort Point, some views from below are on offer. www.goldengatebridge.org
Here in the western edge of the city, at the end of Market Street, is where the hippy revolution of the 1970s erupted. The majority of the properties in this district are Victorian style and there are still numerous bars, tea shops and cafés reminiscent of that golden period. Today, it is one of the liveliest areas of San Francisco thanks to its independent bookshops and restaurants such as Cha Cha Cha, which serves South American food. San Francisco’s largest park, more than 400 hectares, is at one end of Haight Ashbury. It offers pleasant walking around the lakes, gardens, hills and groves. On sunny days, San Franciscans head for this green space and take part in all kinds of open-air activities. Fun attractions offered at this oasis on the outskirts of the metropolis include the Japanese Tea Garden, Botanical Gardens and Conservatory of Flowers (a tropical species greenhouse) as well as museums.
Pacific Heights: the most exclusive panoramic views This is the elite neighbourhood par excellence, with its mansions with views over the bay and its wide avenues. Like Russian Hill, the area started to develop with the arrival of the funicular tram in 1870. 8
Alcatraz Prison The trip to this old fort and prison is a regular lure thanks to the magnificent views from the ferry and the myth surrounding this small uninhabited island, whipped by cold currents and strong winds – the nightmare of some of the most famous convicts in the world, including Al Capone. Those who can sail can rent a six-person sailing boat in Sausalito. Between1934 and 1963 it was a maximum-security federal prison, known colloquially as “The Rock”. Any convict attempting to escape from this prison would risk getting tangled up in the barbed wire, shot at by the guards posted in the look-out towers or die from hyperthermia in the 5-kilometre swim to San Francisco. By of way of anecdote, it is worth remembering that the Spanish swimmer David Meca managed to swim the distance with shackles on his feet in 37 minutes. Today, the compound is preserved for tourism and forms part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. Spanish sailor Juan Manuel de Ayala was the first European to spot this rock in 1775. Its strategic position close to the mouth of the bay made it the ideal location to build a fortress in 1854 and in the following year, the first lighthouse on the Pacific coast was erected. It was then converted into a military prison and eventually a prison for the worst criminals, accommodating up to 1545. The famous attempts to escape have been seen in memorable films such as Escape from Alcatraz, starring Clint Eastwood. It was the high cost of transferring staff and goods to the penitentiary that finally led to its closure in 1963. The island, with its pronounced cliffs, has a bird sanctuary which is closed during nesting seasons. www.nps.gov/alcatraz
Pier 39 Few loading docks have given as much as this one, originating from 1905 and since remodelled to look like a small fishing village. With its souvenir shops, restaurants and attractions, it is all designed mainly for family tourists. It constitutes one of the main shopping areas of the city and attracts a million visitors a year, partly thanks to its location, right in the middle of Fishermans Wharf, the old fishing district from the end of the 19th century. Among its many lures is the colony of sea lions that started settling here on wooden platforms in 1990. Children will also enjoy the street artists, and the merry-go-round with its horses and reproductions of San Francisco neighbourhoods. Also, the aquarium, where marine animals from the bay like sharks and skate can be admired. Around this dock several ferries set sail including those heading for Alcatraz, Sausalito, Tiburon and Vallejo. www.pier39.com 499 Jefferson Street
Coit Tower Together with the Golden Gate, this is one of the most visible points of reference in the city as it rises up from Pioneer Park, on the top of Telegraph Hill. This 63-metre high concrete tower built in 1933 has a viewing point, reached by lift, that everyone will enjoy. The full panoramic view from the north of the bay and the centre of San Francisco makes it well worth visiting the tower. The lobby of the building is decorated with murals reproducing scenes from life in California in the 1930s. This is the work of a score of painters who were part of a government programme to employ artists in the middle of the Great Depression. Telegraph Hill Boulevard 415/362-0808 Open every day 10am to 7pm (in summer, until 7.30pm)
The San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA) The most dynamic of the city’s art institutions is based in a building that in itself is a sculpture thanks to Swiss architect Mario Botta who used basic geometric forms. A windowless brick facade, topped with a cylindrical skylight finished off with bands of black and silver-grey granite contain a distinguished wealth of paintings, sculpture and photography, especially from the last century. Works by Picasso, Cezánne, Brancusi, Matisse, Klee and Rothko are included in the collection, which also features work from the abstract expressionist North American school, California art and Mexican paintings including by Rivera and Tamayo. On the third floor, part of the museum’s nearly 10,000 snapshots are on display, in an overview that begins in the 1840s right up to the present day. Multimedia arte and design also have their exhibition space. The institution dates from 1935 although it did not move to its current location until 1995. www.sfmoma.org 151 Third Street, between Mission and Howard Streets 415/357-4000 Open Monday, Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 5.45pm. Wednesday closed and Thursday open 11am to 8.45pm. Opens at 10am in summer.
OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST
Fort Mason
Grace Cathedral
Transamerica Pyramid
This area houses San Francisco’s military history as the more than one million soldiers who departed from this based during the Second World War could testify. Its use for battle began with the Spanish who installed five cannons in 1797 as protection against invaders. The central office of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area occupies the former military hospital, while the stores and docks where the troops and supplies headed off for the Pacific has been turned into the Fort Mason Center. This is a culture complex that houses non-profit organisations, art galleries, museums, theatres and a valuable collection of books on naval history as well as boat plans. www.fortmason.org
Work began on San Francisco’s first Episcopal temple (the third in the country) in 1928, taking inspiration from the NotreDame in Paris. It was not completed until almost forty years later. The inside is full of marble and stained-glass windows and contains a 13th century crucifix and 16th century silk and gold tapestry. The tower has 44 bells made in England in 1938. It is 100 metres long and instead of being made of stone, reinforced concrete was used in order to withstand earthquakes. www.gracecathedral.org 1100 California Street 415/749-6300
In the Financial District, a spectacular building stands out, rising 256 metres above sea level and shaped at the top in a point. The city’s highest skyscraper, supported by a concrete slab and test-designed to withstand earthquakes, occupies the plot where the Montgomery Block was erected, the tallest building to the west of the Mississippi in the middle of the 19th century. Although it is closed to the public, this steel, concrete and quartz panel building is worth a close-up look from all angles. 600 Montgomery Street
Japan Center A large leisure and shopping centre that offers much more than exotic foods, oriental art and cinemas. It was built in the 1960s as part of an ambitious project to revitalise the Fillmore District. A 22-metre, five-floor concrete pagoda is the crown of the complex, which itself is the epicentre of the Japanese community, especially during the Cherry Blossom Festival in April Geary Boulevard, between Fillmore and Laguna Streets 922-6776
Old St. Mary’s Church The first Catholic church in the city was erected in 1854 built from brick from New England. It welcomed an Irish congregation. It was soon surrounded by a sordid world of gold-hunters, most of them opium-smokers and regular brothelvisitors. For this reason, the following is inscribed on the church tower: “Son, observe the time and fly from evil”. The new cathedral was built in 1891, in a less sinful place, and the original cathedral was turned into the Old St. Mary’s Church The earthquake and subsequent fires of 1906 ravaged the inside of the church, although the walls and bell-tower were saved. 660 California Street
Cable Car Museum Unique in the world, it also contains the central electric cable car system, which includes the engines and machinery that roll up the cables via a collection of underground pulleys spread around the city. It is hard to believe, but the steel cables in this brick building, which opened in 1909, pull all the cable cars in the city. Also inside is the repair workshop for these vehicles, the depots and the only coach that has been preserved from the first Clay Street Hill Railroad line (1873). Before this date, horses pulled the coaches along the steep slopes of the city, with the consequent danger that this involved. Three cable car lines totalling 17 kilometres in length survive to today, in spite of competition from their electric equivalents and buses. www.cablecarmuseum.org 1201 Mason Street 415/474-1887
Mission Dolores The oldest building in the city, symbol of the religious roots of the first Spanish colony, has been preserved intact since it was constructed in 1791. Proof of this are the paintings on the ceiling, work by local settlers in these lands, who used vegetable inks in their work. Inside is a baroque altarpiece imported from Mexico in 1780. The cemetery has graves of San Francisco’s famous personalities from the pioneer era. The statue that marks a common grave of 5000 Indians, who died mostly during the great measles epidemics of 1804 and 1826, was removed and the only thing that remained is a pedestal where it is written: “In solemn memory of our loyal Indians”. 16th Street and Dolores Street 621-8203 Open Monday to Friday from 8.30 am to 12pm and 1pm to 5pm; Saturdays from 10am to 3pm; and Sundays from 9am to 3pm.
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INFORMATION San Francisco Visitor Information Center 900 Market Street, under Hallidie Plaza 415/391-2000 Open Monday to Friday from 9.00 am to 5pm; Saturdays and Sundays from 9am to 3pm. www.sfvisitor.org
SHOWS Like all major US cities, the choice of shows in San Francisco is almost endless and is capable of satisfying all tastes. Sport, opera, concerts… All are found in this city, the cultural capital of the west coast and one of the liveliest anywhere in the world. The choice of theatres is less extensive than for cinemas, despite including touring shows from Broadway and other local companies.
Theatres American Conservatory Theater (ACT), Geary Theater 415 Geary Street 415/749-2228 www.act-sf.org Built in 1909, thought to be the oldest theatre in the city and the home of ACT, a company with bases across the country. In the 1906 earthquake, San Francisco was left without its eight theatres. The revival of the city did not leave the theatres behind and the theatre flourished. Nature again vented its anger on this historic building in the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. The reconstruction works financed by hundreds of individuals, companies and 11
foundations, concluded in 1996. The season extends from October to May, with performances that range from Shakespeare to Tennessee Williams, including the most up-to-date premiers.
Francisco 49ers, which play at the 3Com Park (+1 415/656-4900). In baseball, the Giants stand out, who play at the SBC Park Stadium (+1 510/762-2255).
Curran Theater
Has enjoyed popularity in the bay since way before 1932, when the first municipal opera hall in the country was built. The San Francisco Opera programmes spectacular productions between September and December and has achieved international renown, as it is considered one of the best stages in the world. The theatre is in the Civic Center (+1 415/864-3330, www. sfopera.com).
445 Geary Street 415/551-2000 www.bestofbroadway-sf.com www.curran-theater.com In this elegant building which dates from 1922, grand Broadway musicals are put on.
Lorraine Hansberry Theater 620 Sutter Street 415/474-8800 www.lorrainehansberrytheatre.com In this theatre, Afro-American works are performed ranging from the classics to experimental.
Fort Mason www.fortmason.org A culture complex that houses non-profit organisations, art galleries, museums, theatres and a valuable collection of books on naval history as well as boat plans. This is the headquarters of the Magic Theater (www.magictheater.org), a company renowned in the United States for its works by American playwrights.
Opera
Cinema Watching a film at the Castro Theater is a priceless luxury that is, nevertheless, within reach for all visitors to San Francisco. The cinema is in the district of the same name neighbourhood, where the gay revolution started. This cinema dates from 1922 and its décor is pompous and magnificent. It shows classic films several evenings a week – sometimes silent movies, livened up by a pianist – as in the old days.
Sports San Franciscans are major fans of American football and baseball. The leading team in the first of these sports is the San
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