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VENICE THE QUEEN OF THE ADRIATIC
HISTORICAL NOTES bmoving Getting about in Venice
Gastronomy & MAIN EVENTS AND FESTIVITIES baround Neighbours in Venice
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HistoricalNotes
VENICE
THE QUEEN OF THE ADRIATIC C
inema, romance, music, palafitti, carnival, art, mist, gondolas, palaces, canals, water. Venice grew from the destruction of the Goths and was destined to become a romantic and monumental city that distils a sweet decadence. Frozen in time and besieged by tides and tourists, it attempts every day to survive the success and the advance of the sea, which threatens to turn it into a modernday Atlantis. A city without streets, also known as La Serenissima, it is made up of over 100 islands joined together by some 400 bridges and is regarded as one of the most unique cities in the world. Cars are banned in the centre, and even the police and the postmen use barges to get about. Its name is closely associated with other such illustrious names as Tintoretto, Bellini, Vivaldi and Marco Polo, while its past is enveloped in silks and imbued with aromas of the most varied spices. What was once a mighty commercial and seafaring power in the Mediterranean still retains its 1
splendour in the eyes of the visitor, to the point of having been reproduced in a Las Vegas casino, yet it is a giant with feet of clay, standing as it does on a muddy lagoon in northeast Italy. Venice invites visitors
to quell their hurry and let themselves be hypnotised by the eternal lapping of the Adriatic. Who could possibly resist being bewitched by such charm!
A practical guide The information given here does not attempt to cover the whole of the city but is simply limited to the most interesting sights from a tourist’s point of view. The metropolitan area of Venice has some 170,000 inhabitants and is spread over countless islands, which can complicate some sightseeing, especially if you do not have a lot of time. The Veneto region is liberally sprinkled with attractions, such as the cities of Padua, Verona and Vicenza, Lake Garda and the Dolomite mountains. In this guide, however, we will be looking at both the best known sights and the hidden corners that perhaps go unnoticed but which allow visitors to capture the essence of Venice and get under its skin in its everyday life. The city is divided into six old administrative districts (sestieri) and the centre is riven by the Grand Canal, or Canalazzo, as the Venetians call it.
A BRIEF HISTORY Although by the start of Christianity the marshy Veneto coastline had already been settled by fishermen and hunters, the true origins of Venice date back to the fifth century, when inhabitants from the hinterland moved to the islands to escape the devastation of the Goths as they cut a swathe to Rome. The inhabitants subsisted in the salt flats of the Po estuary by fishing and extracting salt. The constructions of that age were simple huts built on piles. In the beginning, Venice enjoyed great independence with regard to its neighbours, thanks to the natural barrier formed by the chain of islands, which prevented cavalry or infantry attack. However, over time, the settlements in this area fell under the rule of the Byzantine Empire. Constantinople granted Venice privileges because it was an important trading point between East and West. When Charlemagne and the Byzantine emperor signed the Treaty of Aquisgrán, the city’s influence was greatly reduced, a fact which as is borne out when in 828 the Venetians stole the body of Saint Mark from Alexandria, whom they named the patron saint of the city, replacing Saint Theodore. Venice saw its power greatly increase, thanks to the Crusades, particularly the fourth, in 1204, when the Venetians used the Christians as mercenaries to destroy Constantinople. After this victory, Venice was assured control of trade and became one of the most important powers of the age. Unlike most of the Mediterranean, Venice had a highly organised administration that was governed by the Doge, an elected leader whose powers were clearly set out in the Constitution. Venetian naval supremacy in the Middle Ages was based on the trireme, a swift and easy-to-handle ship that would sink enemy craft with its pointed prow and bow cannon. A drum on the stern beat out the rhythm to synchronise the dozens of oarsmen.
The Columbus setback Venice had to maintain an exhausting struggle against the Ottoman Empire, which had become a world power. Although initially Venetian merchants kept their privileges awarded by the Byzantines, war was inevitable due to Ottoman terrestrial expansion after 1470. The invasion policy on the Italian Peninsula brought the Venetians into conflict with the Pope, who summoned the League of Cambrai in 1508. This included Louis XII of France, Emperor Maximilian I of Austria and Ferdinand II of Aragon, and the struggle culminated in the crushing Venetian defeat in May 1509 at the battle of Agnadello, which stopped all Venetian attempts at expansion on the Italian Peninsula forever. The Republic held on to its independence through territorial cessions to Spain and Milan, and because its destruction meant the elimination of a potential ally against the Ottoman Empire. Despite these serious setbacks, at the end of the fifteenth century Venice still had 180,000 inhabitants and was the second most populated city in Europe, surpassed only by Paris. In 1453, Constantinople fell into the hands of the Turks and the Venetians lost numerous possessions. With Christopher Columbus’ arrival in America in 1492 and the new sea route to the Indies in 1500, the Adriatic enclave began to lose its monopoly on trade. In the centuries that followed, the alliance between Spain and Portugal, the commercial expansion of Genoa and defeats to the Ottomans weakened the Venetian Republic even further, although it still managed to maintain its independence until the arrival of Napoleon in 1797. This milestone marks the end of an era of glorious decadence, during which the Venetian aristocracy devoted itself to squandering its fortune on sumptuous parties and games of chance, maintaining itself as a closed community, which prevented the necessary social rise of the bourgeoisie. Later, with the Treaty of
Campoformio, Napoleon delivered the city to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and its possessions were divided up. Venice became part of the Kingdom of Italy following the Third War of Independence in 1866. A gateway to hope The city awoke from its lethargy and began to develop quickly thanks to the opening of the Suez Canal (1869), which greatly shortened the journey by ship between Europe and Asia. A port for transatlantic ships was built and Venice became the preferred point of embarkation for well-todo colonial and European administrators who wanted to travel east. The fashion for sea bathing and the patronage by high society sponsored the resurgence of this enclave. Since then, Venice has been closely linked to the Arts – especially music and the cinema – with the Biennale as its ultimate expression of this. And there have been a few scares, such as 4 November 1966, when it suffered the worst floods in its history. If the flood line is normally 110 centimetres, the flood that day reached 2 metres. Since then, a number of steps have been taken to protect its exceptional heritage from the tides.
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GETTING ABOUT IN VENICE HANDY TIPS
Venice is in the same time zone as the rest of central Europe, in other words GMT + 1 hour, the same as Spain and France. Any time of the year is ideal to visit the city of canals; even the winter fogs add a romanticism to the monumental urban setting. However, it is a good idea to avoid the busiest tourist times, such as Carnival (February), Easter, Christmas and the months of July and August. The city boasts a Mediterranean climate with alpine influences. It is characterised by cool winters – an average temperature of 2°C in January – and fairly hot and humid summers (average of 24°C in July). The sea and the mountains combine to provide Venice, and the Veneto in general, with more rainfall than is considered normal in the rest of Italy. The driest months are February and July. Venice is a fairly small city, so the easiest and cheapest way to get around is on foot. Walking is a pleasure as there is no vehicle traffic and it only takes 40 minutes to cross the whole woven fabric of alleyways, bridges and canals from north to south. The only obstacle may be the masses of tourists that sometimes clog up the paths through. To find your way around and not get lost amid the many alleyways and canals, you should check a detailed map from time to time. The most romantic, and the most expensive, form of transport is the gondola. There are many moorings where the gondoliers wait for trade, especially in Saint Mark’s Square, the Rialto, Piazzale Roma and the railway station. It is advisable to haggle before getting on board as the gondoliers will always try to make the most from each trip. The official fares 3
are around 60 euros for a 45-minute trip, although after 8 pm this price goes up to 80 euros. One way of saving is to get on with a group of people, although remember that a maximum of only five or six people are allowed on a gondola. Renting this type of boat for yourself is, without a doubt, rather expensive, but it is also a special and unique experience of a lifetime; the sort you never forget. By contrast, if you want to get to one of the many islands around the city (Burano, Giudecca, Murano, Lido, Poveglia), the quickest way is by one of the taxi launches. They are white or wooden and get from one part of the city to another in a matter of minutes. They are also pretty expensive too, and the price goes up if you’ve got suitcases, if the boatman has to wait or if it’s at night. The traghetti (public ferries) are genuine gondolas that cross the Grand Canal at seven different points and which provide an inexpensive and continuous service for tourists, who very often have not even heard of them. Yellow posters with small black gondolas show the points where they are moored. A trip costs only fifty cents per person and allows you to savour a gondola trip, even though it does not last long. The vaporetto is like a water bus and is regarded as the typical means of transport for getting around in Venice or for heading for the other islands in the lagoon. There are 15 lines with different types of boats, such as launches or motorboats. The most famous line is No. 1, which runs slowly along the Grand Canal, where all the palaces can be seen. It takes 45 minutes from Sant’Elena to Rialto (it takes half this time on foot). If you’re in a hurry, Line 2 is quicker and it
also goes along the Grand Canal but with fewer stops. The company in charge of the transport service is ACTV (www.actv.it). The routes of the lines are often changed, so if you do not have a recent map, ask the staff on board where you should get off. On the main lines, the vaporetti usually run every 10-20 minutes during the day; at night (9.45 pm-11.45 pm), there are fewer boats and Line 1 misses some stops. Between 11.30 pm and 4.30 am, there is a night service that runs every 20 minutes. Tickets can be bought at any vaporetti stop or in bars and tobacconist’s displaying the ACTV sign. Remember that many ticket offices close in the afternoon. Tickets can also be bought on board, informing the staff immediately. The Venice Card offers discounts on public transport and museums. Venice is a safe destination. As happens in many other tourist cities, the main enemy are pickpockets, who usually take advantage of carelessness in the busiest areas, such as the railway station or the vaporetti stops. The best thing to do is leave your valuables at home or keep them out of the reach of thieves. At night, the alleyways are not always well lit, but don’t be afraid: crime in the city is very rare. Almost all the businesses usually open from 9.00 or 9.30 am until 7.30 or 8 pm on weekdays and until 1 pm on Saturday, although as it is very much a tourist destination, there are businesses that serve customers at all hours. As for tips, they are not compulsory, although in restaurants it is usual to round the bill up if the service has been good
Gastronomy
Fresh and light specialities Venice’s culinary tradition is very ancient and includes oriental flavours (ginger, nutmeg, saffron, cloves and cinnamon) that are not usually found in dishes from other Italian regions. The Venetian table also offers the diversity of landscapes from the Veneto region, with its cattle pastures, farmland, mountains and coastlines that provide excellent products: meat, cheese, fish, seafood, polenta, rice, etc. Generally speaking, the cuisine is fresh and light, as it contains no heavy sauces. Fish, perhaps the star dish, is cooked on a grill or boiled with herbs, be it carp, cod or sardines. It comes from the Adriatic and the rivers and lakes of the region. Typical hors d’oeuvres are prawns, calamari, octopus, Murano crab and sardines in saor (fried and in brine with onion, oil, raisins and pine nuts). The most popular fish dishes are cooked
eel, cod, black squid and rice. Other classical recipes include a wide variety of soups and polenta, which is accompanied by different products, such as Venetianstyle liver (with onion). The most outstanding meat dish is veal carpaccio covered with Parmesan and guinea fowl with peverada. Biscuits, cakes and pastries, such as bussulai with cinnamon, the ovalshaped baicoli, mandolato with crunchy almond nougat, and tiramisu are the perfect culmination to any feast. Veneto wine, generally soft and fruity, is excellent, be it white or red. The ideal accompaniment to an appetiser of capers, anchovies, olives and seafood cocktail is a glass of wine (ombra), normally enjoyed at wine shops (bacari). After dinner, why not also try a typical grappa, eau de vie made from grapes, juniper berries or plums, or sgrop-
pino, a liqueur of lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco, sparkling Veneto wine. If you want to eat well in Venice, you need to be careful, as prices tend to be very expensive. To avoid any unpleasant surprises when it comes to paying, you need to remember that the quality/price relationship improves the further away you go from Saint Mark’s Square. In cheaper restaurants, the price of a meal of more than one course plus a drink may be around 30 euros per person, while in more upmarket ones it may be 50-70 euros a head. Many restaurants have a set-price tourist menu, but the quality is usually worse than that of a two-course à la carte meal. It is more than advisable to reserve a table in the high season.
MAIN EVENTS AND FESTIVITIES Epiphany Children are the centre of attention on 6 January, which is when they receive their presents from the good witch Befana. Carnival One of the most famous in the world, this fiesta starts ten days before Lent and ends on Shrove Tuesday. During this time, Venice City Council organises huge processions and fancy-dress and masked balls. It is one of the city’s main images and the busiest time of year for tourism, so it is a good idea to book well in advance to ensure you enjoy its vibrant colours. Su e zo per i ponti On the second Sunday in March, a popular race is organised through the streets of Venice back and for across the bridges
(su e zo i ponti) from Ponte della Paglia to Saint Mark’s Square. Festa di San Marco On the occasion of Saint Mark’s day, the patron saint of Venice, every 25 April there is a gondola regatta in the Saint Mark’s inlet, between Sant’Elena and Punta della Dogana. It is a tradition on this day for men to give their beloved a rose. La Sensa This is commemorated on the first Sunday after the Ascension of the Virgin, in May. This tradition, when the marriage between the Doge, the old governor of the Republic of Venice, and the sea is depicted, arose to celebrate the Venetians’ victory over Emperor Barbarossa in the twelfth century. To recognise this triumph, the Pope gave
the Doge a ring that symbolised the power of Venice on the sea, which is thrown into the waters of the lagoon, together with a crown of laurels, during the celebration. Vogalonga One week after La Sensa, this 20-mile rowing boat regatta is held, from Saint Mark’s Square to the island of Burano and back. It was created in 1974 as a protest against the growing number of motorboats on the canals. Biennale In odd years, between June and September, one of the largest exhibitions of contemporary art in the world is held.
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and churches, like Santi Giovanni e Paolo, commonly known as San Zanipolo. Here you will find the most authentic Venice, in this quarter where washing is still hung out from the windows, older inhabitants greet each other in the street and bambini play football in the doorways.
Dorsoduro
The most southern part of Venice gets its name from the harshness and height of the land. The island of Mendigola, situated at the western end of this sestiere, was colonised in the seventh century, long before the Rialto was established as a permanent settlement. The urban area expanded between the thirteenth and sixteenth centuries with the construction of a great number of churches and stunning palaces on the banks of the Grand Canal. Lying to the east of La Accademia, Dorsoduro is a peaceful quarter of squares shielded from the sun, gentle canals and picturesque residences. The most attractive element of the quarter is the excellent views over the lagoon and the island of Giudecca. To the east, it livens up in the bustling Campo Santa Margherita, the in place where young people flock to as it is bursting with cafés and modern bars, and very close to a number of universities. A fruit and fish market is held in the mornings in this broad and irregular-shaped square; at night, it becomes an exciting meeting place for young people. The stylish church of San Nicolò dei Mendicoli is surrounded by an ancient fishermen and seafarers quarter. Also worth a visit is the Pugni bridge, which in the past was the setting for fights between the city s two factions: the Nicolotti, dressed in black, and the Castellani, wrapped in capes and red hats. In 1705, when fighting switched from fists to knives, the traditional confrontations were outlawed. A stones throw from this bridge is the workshop of Guerrino Giano Lovato, a sculptor and craftsman of masks.
Saint Mark’s
Cannaregio
The sestiere of San Marco, situated in the southeast of Venice, has always been the centre of the city since its foundation. The square dedicated to the patron saint was where some of the first inhabitants settled, who were fleeing the Goths and looking for a safer place to live. Here they built the Doge’s Palace as a fort and the Basilica di San Marco as a church, the first buildings which, over time, would become some of the most visited destinations in the world. Surrounded by the meandering Grand Canal, this quarter was extended over the centuries and is now the most important public space in La Serenissima. Saint Mark’s Square, the political and legal epicentre during the golden age of the Republic and described by Napoleon as “the most elegant salon in Europe”, was the only one worthy of being called a piazza, as the rest were just campi, or fields. The most sumptuous bars and some of the most expensive bars line this square, which is invaded by tourists at all hours.
This lies in northeastern Venice and is home to a third of the city’s population (around 20,000 inhabitants). It is the second largest quarter, surpassed only by Castello, and the first that visitors discover when they arrive in Venice by train, yet at the same time it is one of the least familiar to tourists. The quays in the north of the sestiere offer a view of many of the islands in the lagoon, while in the south lies the wide meandering high course of the Grand Canal. The name may come from “canal regio”: the great watercourse now known as the Canale di Cannaregio; before the arrival of the train on the island, it was the main entrance to Venice. Another theory maintains that this name refers to the many reed beds – in Italian, canneto – that there used to be in this area. The quarter, which is the most northerly and peaceful area of the city, is made up of straight canals, narrow alleyways, small bars and craft workshops that form the humblest part of the city. The area most visited by tourists coincides with the Lista di Spagna and the broad Strada Nova, the main arteries that lead to Rialto. It has one of the oldest Jewish quarters in the world, which exudes a special charm.
San Polo
Giudecca
This is the smallest quarter in the city of canals: it barely covers 34 hectares. It includes the Rialto district, one of the oldest in Venice, and borders the Grand Canal. In the ninth century, the first inhabitants decided to live on this group of tiny islands known as the Rivus Altus or Rialto, as the land was higher and, therefore, less susceptible to flooding. From the twelfth century on, it became the commercial hub of the settlement and numerous wholesale and retail markets sprang up along its alleyways. It was at that time that the first banks – private and public – special magistracies for trade and maritime insurance companies were founded. Many of Venice’s merchants set sail from these shores to the East to exchange goods, as is the case of Marco Polo who contributed greatly to the city’s wealth thanks to the trade in sugar, spices, silk and cotton. This sestiere still retains part of this vitality, as can be seen in its many shops, markets and typical bars (bacari).
Santa Croce
For anyone wanting to escape the gigantic theme park that Venice sometimes appears to have become, it’s easy: just head for the ferry terminal next to Saint Mark’s Square, take vaporetto number 82 to Tronchetto, cross the lagoon and get off at Giudecca, one of the closest islands to the city. This unknown place as far as tourists are concerned offers an insight into daily life in its narrow streets (vicoli), criss-crossed by washing lines full of clothes. Giudecca, which in the past was called Spinalonga (long spine) due to its narrowness, does not share in the Venetian exuberance, but it does give visitors an idea of what its older sister may have once looked like. Apart from its residential zones and small services areas, there are kitchen gardens, private gardens, textile factories and two shipyards devoted to building gondolas that delight the most curious. A stroll through the streets that run along the canals (fundamenta) can be highly evocative. Along the route, take a look at the neo-Gothic façade of the Stucky windmill, the Delle Convertite convent – a women’s prison which before this was a monastery and a refuge for prostitutes – the church of the Redentore, the church delle Zitelle and the Cipriani, one of Venice’s most luxurious hotels.
This occupies the most northeasterly part of Venice and covers 94 hectares. It is divided into two very distinct areas. The eastern area has numerous alleyways and narrow squares where you can enjoy a very pleasant stroll, despite the humility and melancholy of the area. The finest palaces line the banks of the Grand Canal. The western area is much less attractive, with many industrial buildings and the huge car park at Piazza di Roma.
Castello
The largest and most heterogeneous quarter extends from San Marco to Cannaregio in the west and to the modern sestiere of Sant’Elena in the east. It is named after the fort built in the eighth century, which is now the site of San Pietro, the island that for centuries was the religious heart of Venice. Its church was an Episcopal see from the ninth century and a cathedral from 1451 to 1807. It is also famous for the Arsenale, the great shipyard where the war ships were built that formed part of the legendary Venetian fleet, one of the largest navies in Europe. The last century saw notable changes to this area, such as the expansion of Sant’Elena and Celestia and the construction of numerous houses in the southeastern part of San Pietro. The Riva degli Schiavoni is considered to be the most commercial area, while away from the water’s edge visitors can enjoy the tranquil atmosphere of alleyways, palaces 5
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that of the Grand Council (Maggior Consiglio), where laws used to be passed, senior functionaries were elected and official banquets were held. The sublime work El paraíso, by Tintoretto, occupies the east wall, which is considered to be one of the biggest paintings in the world (7.45 x 24.65 metres). The first 76 Doges represented in the frieze are the work of students of Tintoretto. The portrait covered by a curtain is of Marin Falier, the only Doge who attempted to abolish the Council and proclaim himself absolute governor. For this crass mistake, he was beheaded in 1355. This huge room leads through a series of passageways and stairways to the Bridge of Sighs, which leads to the dungeons. Legend has it that its name comes from the lamentations of the prisoners being led to the Court of the Inquisition and the torture chamber. Owing to its great prestige, for many centuries it was the only building in Venice defined as a palace. All the others were called Ca, the abbreviation for casa or house.
Basilica di San Marco
The church dedicated to the city’s patron saint is the third to stand on this site. The first was built in the ninth century to house the body of Saint Mark, which was removed from Alexandria by Venetian traders. Fire destroyed the first basilica, but there was soon continuity in another, which was demolished in the eleventh century so that a new one could be built which was in harmony with the might of Venice in the Mediterranean. Built in the shape of a Greek cross and crowned by five huge domes, its oriental appearance is further accentuated by the gold mosaics created by the artisans of the Byzantine court at Ravenna. Of note on the façade are the copies of four bronze horses from the Hippodrome of Constantine, which were stolen during the sacking of Constantinople in 1204, and which are now the very symbol of the city. The originals are in the Marciano Museum, located inside the basilica. Also well worth studying on the front of the central portico are the reliefs that represent the different professions and the gold mosaic which depicts the theft of the relics of Saint Mark, which were put into a barrel of salt pork to deter the Muslims. The basilica has been remodelled on several occasions and from this derives its complex mix of styles, accentuated by the continuous plunder from Venetian conquests. In 1807, it succeeded Saint Peter’s, in the Castello sestiere, as Venice cathedral: until then it was used by the Doge as a private chapel. The interior houses many of the great treasures from Venice’s golden age. This exceptional scenario decorated with marble, reliefs and mosaics played host to the main ceremonies of the Republic of Venice. Here, the Doge was presented to the citizens after being elected, heads of state, popes, princes and ambassadors were received here, and ship’s captains were commissioned here before setting sail to the ends of the Earth. In the north chapel of the main altar is the venerated figure of the Madonna of Nicopeia (tenth century), part of the plunder from the war of 1204. Standing behind is the altar the magnificent Pala d’Oro, an altarpiece made by mediaeval silversmiths and decorated with enamel and precious stones, such as sapphires, emeralds and rubies. The impressive nature of this corner and that of the dome of the Ascension, decorated with a Byzantine mosaic of Christ 7
Grand Canal
Much of life in Venice flows along this sinuous stretch of water that follows an ancient riverbed. Since the Republic was founded, it has been the main public thoroughfare, criss-crossed in early times by galleys and merchant ships and later by vaporetti, gondolas, traghetti and barges of all kinds. It is
in the Glory (thirteenth century), symbolise the might of Venice and its independence from the Church of Rome during the Middle Ages. We recommend you visit the church first thing in the morning or afternoon to avoid the long queues at midday.
Campanile
The tallest building in the city, this 98-metre bell tower stands on one corner of Saint Mark’s Square, the heart of Venice. The old one, built as a lighthouse to guide mariners across the lagoon and where, in 1609, Galileo Galilei first used his refracting ocular eyeglass – a primitive telescope – fell down in 1902 after cracks appeared, and a decade later its reproduction was already standing. From its top, which can be reached by a lift installed in 1962, visitors are rewarded with marvellous views of Venice, the lagoon and, on a clear day, the Alps. Its five bells fulfilled a key purpose during the Middle Ages: the marangona, the largest, marked the start and end of the working day; the malefico, the smallest, marked executions; the nona signalled midday; the mezza terza called the senators to the Doge’s Palace; and the trottiera announced the meetings of the Grand Council, made up of the leaders of
flanked by palaces and houses that were built over a 500-year period, in some cases rather decadent and peeling, but just as stunning. The best way to admire the Grand Canal, which is almost 4 kilometres long and between 30 and 70 metres wide, is from a gondola or vaporetto number 1, the only one that lets you study every detail thanks to how slowly it moves. The Canalazzo, as it is known by Venetians, forms the city’s backbone and offers curious perspectives on famous attractions including La Accademia, the Venier dei Leoni palace, the home of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and the church of Santa Maria della Salute. On the first Sunday in September dozens of oarsmen compete in a regatta that begins with a historical procession along the Grand Canal, in which representatives of the four mediaeval republics take part: Venice, Pisa, Amalfi and Genoa.
Rialto Bridge
Rising above the Grand Canal in a single arch measuring 48 metres, it stands in one of the oldest and busiest quarters in Venice, the principal commercial centre for centuries and scene of bustling markets. Stopping for a breather on the balustrade of the outer passage or browsing in the shops on the central axis are common activities on this bridge, the one with the oldest history of the city. It was built between 1588 and
1591 and, until 1854 when the Accademia bridge was built, it was the only one that allowed the Grand Canal to be crossed on foot. Its wooden precursors were extremely ill-fated, as they eventually fell down. The most recorded event of this nature occurred in 1444, when the bridge gave way under the weight of a throng that was watching the wedding of the Marquis of Ferrara. If you visit it by day, make sure to come back at night, or better still, when there’s a fog, as this is when the bridge really appears like something from another world.
Accademia
The greatest collection of Venetian art covers five centuries, from the mediaeval and Byzantine period to the Baroque and Rococo styles, and occupies three ancient religious buildings, including the church of Santa Maria della Carità. It was founded in 1750 and was extended half a century later with works brought from churches and monasteries closed by Napoleon. The halls are home to works by Paolo and Lorenzo Veneziano, Michele Giambono and Giovanni Bellini (fifteenth century). Titian, Veronese and Tintoretto (sixteenth century); and Tiepolo, Piazzetta and Longhi (seventeenth and eighteenth centuries), as well as drawings by Leonardo da Vinci and Canaletto’s sketchbook. Most of the paintings are oil on wood or canvas.
the Republic of Venice. The base of the bell tower is decorated with allegorical reliefs.
Doge’s Palace
This Gothic building of Veronese marble stands on Saint Mark’s Square, once the residence of the Doges, the leaders of the Republic, and the seat of government and the magistracy. It began as a castle in the ninth century, which was completely destroyed by fire, while the present structure, which rests on stone arches, which in turn stand on porticoed columns, dates back to the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The Porta della Carta leads to a vaulted corridor that opens out into the Foscari arch and the inner courtyard, where the staircase of the Giants – by Antonio Rizzo – is outstanding and which gets its name from the statues of Mars and Neptune that crown it. The first floor mainly houses the Doge’s apartments, which are empty except for some exemplary paintings by Titian and Bellini, while the upper floors housed the government offices. Tintoretto and Veronese were hired to decorate these spaces and leave a record of the power and wealth of the Republic of Venice. The art reaches its utmost expression in the great hall on the third floor,
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SHOWS
doni (1707-1793). The season runs from November to June and most of the performances are in Italian.
The range is extensive, although it varies depending on the time of year and it does not reach the levels of a major capital. The Biennale, which is held every odd year, is the city’s great showcase of modern art. However, the most important annual event is La Mostra, a pioneering international film festival, having been held since 1932. Classical music concerts are staged in a number of churches. Music and theatre Teatro La Fenice Campo San Fantin San Marcos 1965 (041) 24 24 info@teatrolafenice.org www.teatrolafenice.it One of the most outstanding opera houses in Italy, its origins date back to 1792. It has undergone fires, the last in 1996, after which the building was rebuilt and reopened in November 2004. Today, it shares the opera, classical music and ballet programme with the Teatro Malibran, near the Rialto. Teatro Malibran Corte del Milion Cannaregio 5873 (041) 24 24 www.teatrolafenice.it
OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST Church of Santa Maria della Salute
Its enormous Baroque dome dominates the entrance to the Grand Canal. It is supported by over a million wooden piles, which give us an insight into the impressive dimensions of this church, built to commemorate the end of the plague. Inside, the octagonal layout is somewhat sombre, although it has an imposing altar decorated with sculptures that symbolise the Virgin and Baby Jesus protecting the city from disease. Every 21 November, on the Festa della Salute, a pontoon is installed over the Grand Canal offering entry to this church, where Venetians light candles to give thanks to the Virgin. The décor is completed with works by Titian and Tintoretto.
Dogana di Mare
Next to the church of Santa Maria della Salute stands the Patriarchal Seminary and the customs building, from the seventeenth century. It is well worth coming to this corner of Venice for the view from here, with the Doge’s Palace, the Campanile di San Marco, the island of San Giorgio Maggiore and the eastern part of Giudecca. From the outside, at its highest point you 9
can see two bronze Atlases supporting a golden globe and, on this, a weather vane that represents Fortune.
Church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
The present church, heir of the original one erected by the Franciscans between 1250 and 1338, was built in brick in the Gothic style in the mid fifteenth century and houses interesting Venetian paintings and sculptures, especially by Titian and Bellini. It is regarded as the greatest church in Venice, and its walls shelter masterpieces of incalculable value, such as Assumption of the Virgin (1518) by Titian, behind the altar; the old friars’ choir stall (1468), with a three-tier stall sculpted with bas-reliefs of saints and city scenes; the Corner chapel; a wooden statue of John the Baptist, the only legacy of Donatello that is conserved in Venice; and the monument to sculptor Antonio Canova.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
This is one of the most notable exhibitions of modern art in Italy. The wealthy American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a generous benefactor who helped in the rise of
Jackson Pollock, began bringing together her collection between 1938 and 1947. After taking part in the 1948 Biennale, she bought the Venier dei Leoni palace, where she lived until her death in 1979, leaving all of her wealth to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation. The halls of the museum feature works from such movements as Cubism, Abstract, Surrealism and Expressionism, and by such artists as Pollock, Picasso, Kandinsky, Mondrian and Dalí. The garden filled with sculptures is a delight and enjoys wonderful views over the Grand Canal.
Teatro Goldoni Calle Goldoni San Marcos 4650/B (041) 240 20 11 www.teatrostabileveneto.it Venice’s main theatre stages mainly comic works by Venetian playwright Carlo Gol-
The churches of La Pietà, Frari and Santo Stefano, and the Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista, in the Prigioni Vecchie palace, and the old dungeons next to the Doge’s Palace sometime organise classical music concerts. Cinema Venice has four cinemas showing dubbed films. Accademia, Rossini and Giorgione Movie d’Essai show independent films, while the Multisala Astra offer more commercial movies. The home of the International Film Festival is at the Palazzo del Cinema, in the Lido. Bars, cafes and clubs Young people cannot afford to live in Venice because of the high prices, and this is reflected in the nightlife. For a drink, the fashionable places are concentrated around Saint Mark’s Square. The more bohemian areas are around the alleyways of Cannaregio and San Polo. Don’t forget that prices in the city are expensive: a beer costs between 3 and 5 euros. Municipal by-laws, which seek to balance residents’ rights to peace and visitors’ leisure, mean that bars have to close at around midnight. Some establishments near hotels usually close a little later. There are barely any clubs in the centre and bars playing live music are a rarity. Most notable of these are Bacarao Jazz, Paradiso Perduto and Pizzería 900 Jazz Club. The most famous establishments include the opulent Caffè Quadri and Caffè Florian, old in style and located right on
Saint Mark’s Square, and Harry’s Bar, just a few metres away and famous for its cocktails – such as the Bellini, made with prosecco, peach juice and grenadine – and its illustrious clientele, including Ernest Hemingway. The prices in these bars are extortionate. In recent years, Campo Santa Margherita has become the in place for young people as it is filled with modern cafes and bars. The liveliest tend to go out around Mestre, where the spaces are larger and the municipal restrictions are much less stringent. The best option inside Venice is the Disco Club Piccolo Mondo, where house music is mainly played. Lovers of Latin rhythms should head for Casanova Disco Club, which is very near the railway station. Casinos Venice has just one casino, but in two locations: in the summer, it is at the Lido, while in winter it moves to the Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi. Sports Rowing and sailing are the top sports in Venice, for more than obvious reasons, albeit with the exception of football, a real passion throughout the whole of Italy. The city’s football team is SS Calcio Venezia (www.veneziacalcio.wordpress.com), which was founded in 1907 but which is not exactly living moments of glory right now. It plays every other Sunday at the Stadio Pierluigi Penzo, which is in the most easterly corner of the city. To play tennis or golf or to go cycling, you have to head for the Lido. In October, Venice plays host to an international marathon (www.venicemarathon.it).
Ca’d’Oro
Also on the banks of the Grand Canal, the most famous of the Venetian Gothic palaces is home to tapestries, frescoes and sculptures from the Baron Giorgio Franchetti collection, who, in 1916, donated the building and its contents to the State. Vaporetto number 1 offers a perfect view of its svelte ogee windows and exotic tracery in marble, as well as its oriental influence. The affluent noble Contarini commissioned the building in 1420 and since then it has undergone several alterations. Its rooms display works such as San Sebastián (1506), the last work by Andrea Mantegna and Franchetti’s favourite.
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