CONTENTS 3 Seasonal skincare 5 Benefits of exfoliation
SKIN REJUVENATION
7 Serums for specific skin conditions 9 What are body wraps?
SEASONAL SKINCARE So it’s that time of year again…
You’ve swapped the summer doona for the winter one, pulled out those cardigans to tackle the cold breeze that creeps in after sundown and you may have also started wearing your fluffy slippers around the house. So what better time than now to change up your skincare routine in order to prepare your skin for the approach of cooler weather? You would have noticed that as soon as the weather changes, so too does your skin. This is most common when winter is approaching or there is a cold snap. Being the largest organ of defence in the human body, skin is very complex and being on the outside of our bodies it is exposed to external factors including the weather.
The most outer layer of skin is called the epidermis. This layer is responsible for skin regeneration or cell turnover, so how we treat our epidermis is very important. In order for our skin to function as it should, it requires a little help. During a change of season, our skin can become dry and dehydrated which can appear as flakiness, or a dull appearance. It can also feel tight or even itchy, as a result of the epidermis being irritated. You may be thinking you’re in the safe zone because you don’t spend a lot of your day outdoors exposing your skin to harsh weather, unfortunately this may not be the case; you are still at risk of being affected as air conditioning and heating are major influencers. Being in an office environment can be dehydrating to the skin and add to these issues. In order to keep your skin healthy, a basic skincare routine is really important. At the very least, our skin requires cleansing and moisturising twice a day, as well as exfoliation once or twice a week depending on the skin type.
Tips to ensure your skin adapts to seasonal changes:
Cleanser
Serum
Most people are not aware that a cleanser does more than just cleanse, as many professional cleansers contain added ingredients that the skin can benefit from. Cream or oil based, cleansers are rich in nourishing ingredients, a great way to add moisture to the skin.
Add a serum into your routine; a serum is a concentrated liquid that can be applied underneath moisturisers. Serums are usually highly regarded by beauty therapists as they contain high amounts of strong, active ingredients. For this reason, results can be seen quicker as your skin gets a boost of goodness at once.
Moisturiser Changing to a richer moisturiser is a great way to aid in keeping the skin supple during a change of weather. Some people prefer to keep their favourite day moisturiser but add in a heaver night cream that will help the skin to restore itself whilst they sleep. Vitamin E is a great ingredient that can be found in night creams, known for its healing and regenerating properties. Sunscreen should always be used regardless of weather; this could be included in your day moisturiser or layered on top. It has been recorded that 80% of the sun’s rays can pass through clouds!
Dry or dehydrated skin would benefit from a hydrating serum that contains an ingredient such as Vitamin B3. Vitamin B3 improves moisture retention in the skin. In other words, it helps the epidermis to ‘lock in’ or ‘hold onto’ moisture in the skin.
Exfoliate Don’t forget to exfoliate. As colder months approach it’s easy to slack off with our skincare routine, but exfoliation is a vital step to healthy skin as it removes the top layer of the epidermis allowing serums and moisturisers to penetrate. Without correct exfoliation, quality serums cannot enter the skin and won’t deliver the same results.
Remember, glowing, healthy skin is easy to achieve all year round with the right care and help from a professional beauty therapist. 3 | Skin Rejuvenation
Skin Rejuvenation | 4
BENEFITS OF EXFOLIATION No matter what skin type you have, it is very important to regularly exfoliate your skin.
5 | Skin Rejuvenation
Exfoliation is essential because it promotes skin regeneration and cell renewal. Exfoliation removes excess dead skin cells, which encourages new and healthy skin cells to grow - Leaving your skin looking healthy and fabulous! Dead skin cells left on the surface of the skin can make the skin appear dull and dry, and if combined with oily skin, can actually block pores leading to congestion and breakouts. By removing the build-up of dead skin cells, exfoliation can help to rid the skin of various types of problematic skin conditions.
What Are The Different Types Of Exfoliation? There are various methods of exfoliation, and different methods suit different people depending on their skin type and condition. Let’s explore the two main types of exfoliation below:
Manual Exfoliation/Scrubs Manual exfoliation and scrubs usually contain various types of grit such as salt, sugar, crushed nuts, jojoba wax and plastic micro-beads. Salt, sugar and coffee scrubs are better used on the body where the skin is a little thicker. Crushed nuts can be effective but they need to be very fine. Jojoba wax is perfectly round and a naturally occurring wax, so it makes a perfect exfoliant. Manual exfoliation can be better for people with oily skin as some formulas contains clays which can help to remove excess oil as well as removing the dead skin cells, preventing congestion. Someone with oily skin should exfoliate three to four times a week. If the person has frequent blemishes manual exfoliation is not recommended as they can knock the top off the blemish and spread the bacteria. Manual exfoliation is also good for people with normal to dry skins and even sensitive, so long as the person is not overusing it and the scrub isn’t too harsh. One to twice a week is enough for these skin types.
Chemical Exfoliation Chemical exfoliation uses ingredients that chemically break down and remove dead skin cells. The degree of skin that is removed varies depending on the type of ingredient and the percentage of that ingredient in the formulation. There are three types of common chemical exfoliants:
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Alphahydroxy acids work by breaking the bonds between skin cells. This dislodges the skin and forces new skin cells to grow and the old skin to shed off, giving the skin an overall glow and plumpness. Betahydroxy acid (BHA) – also called Salicylic acid - is better for oily, congested and acne prone skin as it can penetrate a blocked follicle. Bacteria that thrive in blocked follicles can only survive without oxygen, so by removing the blockage, oxygen can enter the follicle and kill the bacteria inside. AHA’s and BHA’s can be used to treat all kinds of skin conditions such as pigmentation, ageing, rough and dull skin, wrinkles, excessive oil, open pores, congestion and acne. These ingredients are recommended to be used with an SPF.
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Enzymes work by gently breaking down and removing dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. Common enzymes used are bromelain from pineapples and papain from papaya fruit. Others include pumpkin, kiwi fruit and tomato enzymes. These ingredients work more effectively under heat, so are better when used in the shower or under a steamer. Enzymes are recommended for clients with sensitive skin as they don’t go as deep as AHA’s or BHA’s.
When to Exfoliate? If you aren’t exfoliating already it’s a simple step to add into your skincare routine. Depending on your skin type and skin condition, the type of exfoliation and how often you should do it will vary. It is best to see a professional beauty therapist who can correctly diagnose your skin and recommend appropriate professional products. As for beauty treatments such as peels or microdermabrasion (which uses crystals or a rotating diamond head to buff away skin cells and vacuum suction to collect the excess), these can be done any time of the year if the aftercare advice is followed.
Regardless of which method is best for you, regular exfoliation will ensure that your skin is healthy and happy all year round! Skin Rejuvenation | 6
SERUMS FOR SPECIFIC SKIN CONDITIONS A guide to serums so you can flaunt your skin!
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Serums contain highly concentrated active ingredients which are formulated to address different skin concerns. They are designed to go on after the skin has been thoroughly cleansed and then moisturiser is added on top. This ensures that the active ingredients can penetrate into the skin and are sealed in. To increase penetration, at-home dermal rollers are recommended. These contain very small needles which, when rolled over the skin, create tiny micro-channels for the products to enter, increasing the absorption of serums by up to 40%
To treat pigmentation, it is best to use a serum at night and in the mornings. Vitamin C serums are great for morning use as Vitamin C is an antioxidant that neutralises free radicals. Free radical damage can be caused from UV exposure. Vitamin C serum also helps to protects skin cells from harmful UV damage by forming a barrier around the cells. Vitamin C helps to lighten pigmentation and improve the skin tone. It is an essential vitamin for collagen production, therefore it helps the skin appear plump and hydrated.
Pigmentation
Sensitivity
Pigmentation is the occurrence of dark spots resulting from overexposure to UV light. UV stimulates melanocytes, the cells responsible for producing skin pigment which is called melanin. Over time, with overexposure to UV, these cells produce more melanin which tends to clump together in spots or patches known as hyperpigmentation. There are various skin resurfacing beauty treatments that can be done in a salon which effectively remove the skin from the pigmented areas, new healthy skin growing in its place.
There are many reasons skin can become sensitive, some of which include using harsh chemicals and soaps. Overexfoliation, allergies, certain medications, pollution, air conditioning, heating and even genetic factors can all lead to sensitivity of the skin. The best treatment is to find out what has caused the sensitivity and try to cut it out if possible. To soothe redness, a serum containing anti-inflammatory ingredients such a chamomile, aloe vera, squalene (derived from olive oil) or sea buckthorn oil will help cool down, calm and hydrate the skin. People with sensitive skin should also avoid any products containing artificial colours and fragrances as these can aggravate their condition.
Blemished
Fine lines
First and foremost, it is very important for people of all skin types to thoroughly cleanse and exfoliate their skin as this helps to prevent blockages which lead to blemishes. Blemishes can also be caused from internal issues such as hormones it is still important to treat them topically. A serum which contains salicylic acid will help to break down any blockages as it is a small molecule so it has the ability to get into the pore and kill any bacteria present. Salicylic acid also promotes skin renewal, which helps to even out the blemished areas. Tea tree and citrus essential oils are naturally astringent, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal, making them a fantastic ingredient in your serum for addressing congestion and blemishes.
Fine lines occur as we age; as the years go by, our collagen and elastin levels naturally decline. We have a naturally occurring substance in our skin called hyaluronic acid which binds water molecules together and, as it diminishes, the skin can sag and look less plump and fine lines appear. To combat fine lines, a serum containing Vitamin A is a must. The best form of Vitamin A to use is retinol, which is most effective for improving the signs of ageing. Retinol works by increasing cell turn-over and promoting new skin growth, improving the overall appearance of the skin. Retinol can be used on all skin types and has been scientifically proven to improve a range of skin conditions. For best results, use serums with retinol at night as they can make the skin more sensitive to UV.
So regardless of what your skin condition, there’s a serum out there for you - VISit your professional beauty therapist to get a skin analysis and they can diagnose your skin correctly and prescribe the appropriate serum for your skin type and skin conditions.
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WHAT ARE BODY WRAPS? Body wraps are a wonderful way to detox and remineralise your skin.
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When we think about skincare, we often relate this to the face and forget that the skin on our bodies needs attention as well. Body wraps are essential for keeping our skin hydrated and healthy, at AIAS Beauty Training Salons our beauty students provide a variety of body treatments and body wraps to clients. There are many different types of wraps available to tailor to specific needs that clients may have. Here’s a little about what you need to know about a Body Treatment.
So What Exactly Happens During A Body Wrap?
Let’s explore a few different types of body wrapS BELOW:
A body wrap begins with exfoliation. There are many different ways a therapist will do this; the most common for a wrap will be a salt scrub or a dry body brush. These will not only polish and refine the skin, but also prepare the skin to receive products to ensure the benefits of the wrap are absorbed. After this the wrap or body mask will be applied and the client may be wrapped or even cocooned in a spa capsule. Steam or infrared may be included with a spa capsule to aid in detoxing the body.
Detoxing And Remineralising Body Wraps
Body wraps are most effective when left on the skin for more than 20 minutes and they can be removed a few different ways. The therapist may wash the mask off using a Vichy, a hand held shower or with hot towels. The treatment will then be completed with an application of moisturiser to complement the wrap treatment.
Detox wraps work by stimulating circulation. They use a variety of ingredients such as algae, mud, seaweed or clay to help draw out impurities and rid the body of toxins. These will help to restore minerals that your skin may be missing.
Hydrating Body Wraps
Slimming Body Wraps
A great way to replenish and restore moisture to dull or dry skin is with a hydrating wrap. These usually come in the form of a cream or gel based mask that will be applied in conjunction with a nourish serum. They aim to lock in water and moisture on the skin’s most outer layers where dryness occurs. Once the wrap is removed, you’ll notice a healthy glow to your skin which can last for days.
A slimming body wrap is most commonly used as a spot treatment. In other words, only certain areas of the body are targeted. These are great for clients wanting to target specific problem areas such as cellulite on the thighs and buttocks or fluid retention on the upper arms. Slimming wraps can include ingredients such as caffeine, green tea or cocoa. The effects of the treatment can be increased by using a cloth soaked in slimming serum and then wrapped around the area. These types of treatments are most effective when a treatment plan has been set by the therapist; this will include regular measurements and homecare products as well as diet and lifestyle recommendations.
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