The Alchemist – Summer 2019 by The Alchemist

SUMMER 2019

DIY G&T

THEME BARS

HAIL, CAESAR

ABSINTHE

Enjoy summer your own way

Fun and games (and cocktails, too)

Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cocktail turns 50 in style

The green fairy flies back to B.C.

HAKU VODKA

is made with 100% Japanese white rice and has three distinct steps in the distillation process that results in a taste profile that is clean, soft, and smooth with a sweet rice flavour.

ROKU GIN

is an authentic Japanese premium craft gin, that is distilled with six unique Japanese botanicals and eight traditional gin botanicals, making it perfectly balanced.

HOUSE.SUNTORY.COM

Cocktail program by Diaego World Class “Bartender of the Year” Kaitlyn Stewart

595 Hornby St

@royaldinette

Find Vancouver's Best Negroni Bar in the Heart of Vancouver's Historic Gastown. Nicli Antica Pizzeria serves up award-winning pizza, fine italian wines and Italy's classic cocktails done right! No matter the time of day, a Negroni is always appropriate.

Join us for Happy Hour twice a day. * 3-6pm & 9pm-late *

Open 11:30am-late * Eat in or take out 62 East Cordova Street, Vancouver * 604 669 6985 niclipizzeria.com * @niclipizzeria

Contents

08 – BAR BITES News from the world of cocktails and spirits 14 – BEYOND JUNIPER How B.C. gins are defining their own terroir by Tim Pawsey

Hail Mary’s photo

20 – HEY, BARTENDER Romancing the cocktail at the season’s wedding parties by David Wolowidnyk 24 – THEME SCENE The bars where everyone knows your game by Gail Johnson

28 – ABSINTHE The green fairy makes a comeback in B.C. by Charlene Rooke 33 – HOME BAR A step-by-step guide to making DIY gin by Justin Taylor 38 – CL ASSICS: THE CAESAR Canada’s cocktail turns a glamorous 50 by Joanne Sasvari

46 Dan Toulgoet photo

46 – TASTING PANEL A blind sampling of international gins 52-61 – DISTILLERY LISTINGS Our guide to B.C. distilleries 62 – THE L AST WORD All the buzz on the Bees Knees

42 – STILL LIFE Roll out the barrels—if you can find ’em by Charlene Rooke

RECIPES in this issue 06– Garden’s Keeper G&T 08– Into the Aether 11– Joey Watermelon Drink 17– Sheringham Cherub 21– Schwing 25– Lust 26– Spiced Apricot Sour 27– The Fire at the Mill 29– Tip-Toes in the Tulips

30– The Green Beast 31– Absinthe Mojito 31– Bohemian Mule 34– Royal Gin 34– La Bicicletta Gin 36– Royal Gin & Tonic 36– La Bicicletta Gin & Tonic 37– Spirit Free Gin Syrup 37– Spirit Free Gin & Tonic 41– Donnelly Caesar 62– Bees Knees #2

Contributors Joanne Sasvari is the editor of The Alchemist and Vitis magazines. She is a WSET-certified writer-editor who covers food, drink and travel for a variety of publications, and is the author of the Wickaninnish and Vancouver Eats cookbooks.

Charlene Rooke is a Certified Specialist of Spirits and a Moonshine University-trained craft distiller who writes for EnRoute, Taste and Food & Drink.

Gail Johnson is a Vancouverbased writer and broadcaster, fitness instructor, mom, and former longtime waiter and bartender.

Justin Taylor has been mixing it up behind the bars of Toronto and Vancouver for almost two decades. He is currently general manager of The Cascade Room in Vancouver.

Tim Pawsey (a.k.a. The Hired Belly) writes and shoots at hiredbelly.com as well as for various print publications, including Where Vancouver, Quench, TASTE and Montecristo. He’s an original judge for the BC Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence.

David Wolowidnyk is an awardwinning bartender, cocktail stylist, spirit educator, speaker and bar mentor. He is also a passionate supporter of Ocean Wise initiatives. Find him @drinkfixer.

ON THE COVER GARDEN’S KEEPER G&T

Spanish-style G&Ts like the one on our cover are the coolest drinks of summer 2019. T his one was photographed at Botanist at the Fair mont Pacific Rim, and created by head bartender Jeff Savage. 1.5 oz Star of Bombay gin 0.5 oz St-Germain elderflower liqueur 2 dashes Bittered Sling Haskap Bitters Fentiman’s tonic water

Dan Toulgoet photo

Combine gin, liqueur and bitters in a large wine glass, fill with ice and stir gently. Top with tonic water and garnish with a lemon wheel and edible flowers. Serves 1.

Dan Toulgoet photo

The Born and Raised cocktail at Timber captures the flavours of summer with peach purée, bourbon and mint. Find the recipe at thealchemistmagazine.ca.

ummer is short. Make the most of it while you can—we sure plan to. That means long, cool, refreshing cocktails. And gin. Lots of gin. In this issue of The Alchemist, Justin Taylor explains how to DIY your own G&Ts in Home Bar, including a spirit-free version that means everyone will be able to join in the good times. Tim Pawsey delves into what makes a B.C. gin uniquely of this place and our tasting panel samples international gins. Meanwhile, Gail Johnson visits Vancouver’s theme bars, where it’s always about the fun and games. Charlene Rooke hangs out with the Green Fairy and, in her Still Life column, pops the lid off the barrel. We raise a glass to the 50th anniversary of Canada’s cocktail, the Caesar. And in just in time for wedding season, award-winning bartender David Wolowidnyk offers his take on how to make a romantic cocktail that will keep any party hopping. Plus we have a complete guide to B.C.’s distilleries, the latest spirited news and plenty of thirst-quenching recipes. For even more, visit thealchemistmagazine.ca. —Joanne Sasvari, Editor

PUBLISHER: Gail Nugent gnugent@glaciermedia.ca EDITOR: Joanne Sasvari jsasvari@glaciermedia.ca DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER: Tara Rafiq SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR: Kelsey Klassen CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER: Dan Toulgoet TheAlchemistMagazine.ca @TheAlchemistBC @TheAlchemistMag Published by: Glacier Media Group 303 West 5th Avenue, Vancouver, BC V5Y 1J6 604-742-8678 © The Alchemist 2019 This issue is complimentary.

BAR BITES NEWS AND NOTES FROM BEHIND THE BAR AND AROUND THE WORLD OF COCKTAILS AND SPIRITS

IN THE SPIRIT OF COCKTAILS A sparkling goblet filled with golden elixir revolves lazily in mid-air, twirling a couple of inches above the vapours of dry ice billowing from a wooden platform. It looks like magic, and it is, sort of. Certainly, the Botanist Bar team hopes it’ll weave a spell over the judges at the Bols Around the World competition in Amsterdam this June. They were selected to represent North America as one of six global teams competing in the 10th annual contest, each of whom will create a pop-up of their bar on trendy Reguliersdwarsstraat. (The others are Eastern/Central Europe, Western Europe, Asia Pacific, South/Central America and Africa/Middle East.) They were tasked with creating a cocktail with a unique concept and presentation,

using at least one of the products from the portfolio of Lucas Bols, which is believed to be the oldest distillery brand in the world. The Botanist team of Max Curzon-Price, Jeff Savage and Grant Sceney used Bols genever (the juniper-flavoured liquor from which gin evolved) to create their high-concept drink, Into the Aether. It was inspired by the fifth element of spirit and features white tea, vermouth, forest herbs and seawater, including ingredients foraged around Vancouver, as well as a clever bit of sleight of hand. (Magnets, actually.) The curious can sample it at the Botanist Bar, located on the mezzanine level of the Fairmont Pacific Rim, where it will remain on the cocktail list as the fifth “from the lab” creation. INTO THE AETHER

Designed by Botanist Bar team members Grant Sceney, Jeff Savage and Max Curzon-Price. Note that the team uses their own housemade ver mouth, but any quality dry ver mouth will also work. 1.5 oz Bols Genever 0.75 oz dry vermouth 0.75 oz cold-pressed white tea ??? photo

0.25 oz BOLS Maraschino 1 barspoon peated Scotch whisky 1 barspoon salt water (5%)

Combine all ingredients and stir with ice until chilled and properly diluted. Strain into a chilled coupe and express a fresh grapefruit zest over the cocktail. Discard the zest, and serve. Levitation optional. Serves 1.

POOLSIDE READING Looking for a good beach read this summer? These new books will quench your thirst for words and cocktails alike

Flask: 41 Portable Cocktails to Drink Anywhere by Sarah Baird (Chronicle Books) Looking for a drink to go? This handsomely illustrated book has got you covered with 41 classic and contemporary recipes for cocktails to tuck in your purse, pocket or backpack. Available July 23. Cocktails with a Twist: 21 Classic Recipes. 141 Great Cocktails by Kara Newman (Chronicle Books) Kara Newman is the spirits editor at Wine Enthusiast and the author of four cocktail books, so we’re willing to sip whatever she’s serving. In this case, it’s more than 100 clever variations on 21 classic cocktails. Available August 27. That’s the Spirit! 100 of the World’s Greatest Spirits and Liqueurs to Drink with Style by Jonathan Ray (Quadrille) The drinks editor of the Spectator, who was previously the drinks editor of GQ and the anonymous Bar Spy for Imbibe magazine, is the perfect guide for this trip through the world of 100 spirits and liqueurs to enjoy at home and abroad. Available now.

Batch Cocktails: Make-Ahead Pitcher Drinks for Every Occasion by Maggie Hoffman (Potter/Ten Speed/Harmony/Rodale) Make entertaining easy with this guide to batch cocktail-making. It includes 65 pitcher-perfect make-ahead recipes and loads of tips from the cocktail writer for the website Serious Eats. Available now. Let’s Get Tropical: More than 60 Cocktail Recipes from Caribbean Classics to Modern Tiki Drinks by Georgi Radev (DK) If you prefer your cocktails fruity and rumlaced and perhaps garnished with a wee umbrella, this is the book for you. It features more than 50 tropical drinks from Mai Tais to Mojitos, many of them with zero-proof options. Available now. Botany at the Bar: The Art and Science of Making Bitters by Selena Ahmed, Ashley Duval and Rachel Meyer (Shambhala) An indispensable guide to making your own bitters—as well as syrups, shrubs and cocktails—at home. Available July 2. Also look forward to Great Northern Cocktails by Victoria’s Shawn Soole (Mixellany UK), featuring recipes from 150 of Canada’s top bartenders, expected by early fall.

AT RAUDZ, GIN IS IN At RauDZ Creative Concepts, it’s not just about farm to table, but farm to glass. That’s why the Kelowna-based restaurant company has just launched its own craft gin, The Whole Truth, made by Okanagan Spirits and flavoured with locally grown botanicals. It was inspired by The Truth, a variation on the G&T featured at RauDZ Regional Table on opening day a decade ago, back in spring 2009. The gin has plenty of refreshing cucumber and floral aromas, as well as the citrusy notes of mock orange, a native B.C. shrub that was foraged by Tyler Dyck, the CEO of Okanagan Spirits, at nearby Poplar Point.

The gin is available exclusively at RauDZ Regional Table, micro bar & bites, Sunny’s Modern Diner, and Terrafina at Hester Creek by RauDZ. raudz.com

MAC AND CHEESE, REVISED Tired of the same old, same old wine-andcheese pairing? The folks at The Macallan have got you covered. They’ve recently partnered with Toronto cheese wiz Afrim Pristine (owner of Cheese

Boutique and author of the book For the Love of Cheese) and American Cheese Society Certified Cheese Professional Elizabeth Chubbuck to pair fine fromage with, yes, single malt. Turns out, they go surprisingly well together. For instance, they suggest pairing the honeyed spice and citrus notes of the Double Cask 12 Years Old with the equally mellow flavours of a young Manchego. Or try the Triple Cask Matured 15 Years Old, with its rich flavours of chocolate, orange and raisin, alongside the salty, buttery notes of a mellow blue cheese for a perfect example of opposites attracting.

And for a truly decadent flavour sensation, sip the complex Rare Cask, with its nutty spice and citrus notes, alongside a rich, funky, bloomed-rind Camembert or creamy brie. themacallan.com

A COOLER COOLER

SUMMER IN A GLASS For nine months of the year, we can enjoy our fancy drinks, our boozy drinks, our brown-bitter-stirred drinks all we like. But when summer rolls around, we just want something easy. Cool. Refreshing. Even better if it’s made with watermelon. At least that’s what the team at Joey Restaurants, led by Director of Bar Jesse Sahlin, figured when they introduced The Watermelon Drink last year. Now it’s back to quench our thirsts this summer, too.

Love it or hate it, the cooler is the quintessential drink of summer. Typically a fruity, fizzy, vodka-based cocktail in a can, it’s the ultimate in convenience for all summer’s camping trips and backyard BBQs. But sophisticated it ain’t. Until now.

The idea was to create a drink that was not only refreshing and crushable, but lighter in alcohol and lower in calories than most cocktails. It’s only 130 calories, compared to, say, 185 in a Mint Julep, 190 in a Gin and Tonic or 219 in a Mai Tai. Plus it’s got the quintessential summer flavour of watermelon. But remember: Summer is short, so enjoy it while you can.

BC Tree Fruits Cider Co has just come out with a line of dry sparkling coolers made from local ingredients that might just change your mind. M.O Fruitsecco is basically a subtly flavoured apple cider brightened with soda water. It comes in three flavours: Sparkling Dry (with a hint of lavender); Sparkling Rosé (with cherries); and Sparkling Basil. They’re all 5% ABV or less and 118 calories or less, with no gluten or refined sugars. JOEY WATERMELON DRINK

Now, these aren’t big, bold flavours, but light and refreshing, more tart than sweet, eminently sippable on a hot summer’s day. We especially loved the basil with its lightly herbaceous savoury note. Truth is, though, we wouldn’t kick any of them out of our picnic basket.

8 (1-inch) cubes of fresh watermelon 8 to 10 fresh mint leaves 1.5 oz Absolut vodka 0.25 oz agave syrup 0.5 oz fresh squeezed lime juice

M.O Fruitsecco is sold in four-packs of 355 mL cans, available at BC Liquor Stores, private retailers and some grocery stores. mofruitsecco.com

In a cocktail shaker, muddle the watermelon. Add mint, vodka, agave and lime juice and ice. Shake well, then strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice. Garnish with a skewered watermelon cube and mint bouquet Serves 1.

MARK YOUR CALENDARS The Weather Network has forecast a hot, dry summer for B.C., so get out and make the most of it at these upcoming events.

DEIGHTON CUP

Don your fancy chapeaux and hoist your glasses! The ponies hit the track once again on July 20 for the 11th annual Deighton Cup at Hastings Racecourse. Some 5,000 people gather at the track to gamble on the ponies while enjoying swish fashion, buckets of bubbly, fine cigars, gourmet cuisine and, of course, cocktails. The event includes an annual mixology competition, plus sweet summer sippers to enjoy trackside. deightoncup.com

NIGHT ON THE PIER

APRONS FOR GLOVES FIGHT NIGHT

As the sun sinks to the west on August 8, some of Vancouver’s top bartenders will start shaking things up at this chill party on West Harmony Arts Festival photo Vancouver’s Ambleside Pier. This fundraiser for local arts programs is part of the Harmony Arts festival (August 2 to 11), and there will be food, fun, gorgeous views and plenty of great cocktails to enjoy. harmonyarts.ca

It’s a knockout! In 2012, a group of Vancouver hospitality professionals founded Aprons for Gloves, a non-profit boxing program for at-risk women and youth. The program offers free mentorship and training, and once a year, some of the city’s best-known bartenders, servers and other industry pros compete in a fundraising fight night. This year, the event will be held August 20 at the Commodore Ballroom. Tickets range from $40 to $100 and go on sale in late July through Ticketmaster. apronsforgloves.com

Get your kicks in the Six this fall: The six-day festival of all things boozy returns Oct. 15 to 20, bringing together bars, brands and bartenders—as well as consumers, of course—to celebrate the city’s evolving cocktail scene. TCW will be shaking things up with a neighbourhood-focused bar guide, themed gala events, seminars and popup bars featuring familiar faces from Vancouver. torontococktailweek.ca

ART OF THE COCKTAIL

Art of the Cocktail photo

TORONTO COCKTAIL WEEK

The Alchemist is pleased to sponsor Western Canada’s most important cocktail festival, Art of the Cocktail, Oct. 19 in beautiful downtown Victoria. Some 900 attendees will gather at the Grand Tasting to sip and sample cocktails and products from 40 exhibitors pouring more than 60 spirits. Plus there will be masterclasses, guided tastings and more fun than you can shake a cobbler at during this fundraiser for the Victoria Film Festival. artofthecocktail.ca

Whisky Tasting The Blackbird Public House hosts monthly whisky tasting events featuring multi-course dinners, canapes and tastings with brand ambassadors. 13

The Blackbird (Scotch Bar)

visit donnellygroup.ca

905 Dunsmuir St.

for more info

Ginned up THE EVOLUTION OF TERROIR-DRIVEN MADE-IN-B.C. GIN by Tim Pawsey

hen news arrived that Sooke’s Sheringham Distillery had scooped Best Contemporary Gin in the World at the prestigious World Gin Awards, I, like so many others, was truly thrilled. After all, what an achievement for the relatively neophyte distillery perched on Canada’s wild and westernmost edge. But there was also a personal connection, as the awards were judged at London’s Honourable Artillery Company, right across from where I used to stay at my Uncle Ricky’s apartment. Ricky was a true Londoner of his era. In the City, he always wore a bowler hat. He liked his daily gin in civilized pours and his martinis dry, with mere vapours of vermouth, exhorting: “Just wave the cap at it, old chap!” It was his generation, and the few before (all now sipping in eternity), who for years shaped our perception of precisely how “good” gin should taste.

LEFT: Some of the botanicals used to make gin; juniper, in the centre, is the only one that is absolutely essential.

That was a citrusy, juniper-forward style of gin known as London Dry, a flavour profile that came about as the result of two things: the introduction of the Coffey still in 1832 and the purity standards established by Parliament in the wake of the Gin Craze of the 18th century. Those standards were enshrined in response to the ravages wreaked on the city when some 7,000 gin shops catered to the population’s insatiable demands, most of them selling crudely made spirits that were flavoured with botanicals to hide their rough edges. But although the presence of juniper is what defines a gin (the name evolved from genever, the Dutch word for juniper), in recent years, London Dry gin has yielded ground to more international styles made with a huge array of botanicals ranging from saffron to olives to berries, flowers and seaweed. That in turn has spawned a renewed interest in the spirit, especially in the UK, where gin is regaining significant market share. Freed from the shackles of conformity, gin is being respectfully (in most cases) transformed by distillers who, very much

IT IS VERY SATISFYING AS A DISTILLER TO CREATE A GIN FROM LOCAL BARLEY, RATHER THAN USING GRAIN NEUTRAL SPIRIT PURCHASED FROM ELSEWHERE. like winemakers, are seeking a sense of terroir. But they are defining terroir not just in terms of the flavours the land yields, but in the culture and customs of the people who inhabit it. Often as not, these gins celebrate local ingredients. In Sheringham’s case, Seaside Gin incorporates kelp into its recipe. Owners Alayne and Jason McIsaac were so taken with the freshness of the sea air around Sooke that they decided to somehow find a way to work it into the bottle. Winged kelp sports “bright and clear flavours,” says Jason, as well as umami “and a lovely salty brininess.” In a sense it was, very much, their own terroir moment.

Further north on Vancouver Island, Shelter Point Distillery, which is already making a name for its artisan single malts, recently launched Hand Foraged Botanical Gin, which is made from barley grown right on the farm near Campbell River. Shelter Point’s Leon Webb says: “It is very satisfying as a distiller to create a gin from local barley, rather than using neutral grain spirit purchased from elsewhere.” Botanicals include coriander, lemon and orange peel to produce rounded citrus and juniper with lingering subtle spice notes. Shelter Point suggests the gin is a natural complement to its mantra: to use as many local ingredients as possible. Across the Salish Sea, on the Sunshine Coast, One Foot Crow Distillery’s 100

proof Gunpowder Gin offers a somewhat piquant “blast to the past”: It is infused with black pepper that delivers a serious kick. Owner Bob Bottieri says his gin has a seafaring inspiration. “In the days of the sailing ships, British sailors were given a daily ration of rum. To ensure that some unscrupulous captain had not watered it down they would perform a simple test by pouring some rum on gunpowder,” Bottieri says. “If the powder ignited, they took it as ‘proof’ that the rum was unadulterated.” A natural choice for spicy Caesars or Bloody Marys, he says, the gin already has a loyal following who just like to sip it plain or in a livelier version of a classic Martini. Pure craft advocates opt to stay as close to home as possible. Witness Forest Dweller Coniferous Aged Gin from Arbutus Distillery in Nanaimo, which is aged with a variety of conifer species that impart a distinctive woodsy character to its otherwise citrusy grapefruit and orange notes. Nothing says West Coast more than the hints of cedar in this gin, which while surprising at first, ultimately presents a harmonious and intriguing finish. You don’t have to look far to find still more variations on uniquely local gins, as well as often unlikely but truly satisfying local flavour combinations. After all, who would have thought honey-based Unruly Gin (which also echoes a sprig of cedar, as well as citrus) would be such a shoo-in for Fanny Bay oysters on the half shell? While entire cemeteries filled with the ghosts of bowler-hatted purists could well be stirring at the thought, there’s no question that such regional inspiration is here to stay.

SHERINGHAM CHERUB With elderflowers as early harbingers of summer, Sooke meets St-Ger main in this house recipe from Sheringham Distiller y.

1.5 oz Sheringham Seaside Gin 0.5 oz St-Germain elderflower liqueur 0.25 oz maple syrup 0.25 oz lemon juice

0.5 oz loganberry or strawberry purĂŠe 0.75 oz sparkling elderflower juice such as Bottle Green Garnish: Lemon peel

Stir all the ingredients together in a rocks glass, then fill with ice. Garnish with a slice of lemon peel. Serves 1.

Photo courtesy of Sheringham Distillery

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Cool Canadiana AT TIMBER, JONATHAN DENNIS PL AYS WITH FL AVOURS THAT HAIL FROM COAST TO COAST TO COAST

As an all-Canadian pub-style restaurant, it’s no surprise that Timber has a pretty great beer selection. “But with the Canadiana theme, you can do so much more,” says restaurant manager Jonathan Dennis, who also oversees the bar program. “There’s a lot of people who want to have a killer Canadian cocktail as well.” And that’s just what he is serving up at this friendly neighbourhood hangout on Robson at the gateway to Vancouver’s West End. “One of the things with the cocktail program is having it be really fun and approachable, but really good, quality drinks,” Dennis says. “Not refined martinis, but easygoing drinks modelled around classic Canadian food.”

Dennis grew up in Burnaby and North Vancouver, cooking with his mom, and brings the love of food he learned from her to the bar program at Timber. “It’s combining the fact that you work with the ingredients, but you have that customer service experience as well,” he says.

“Designing cocktails that are an analog of food is super enjoyable.” Where the food menu features classic Canadian comfort fare like bison burgers and poutine, Timber’s cocktail menu offers concoctions like the Bourbon Butter Tart, made with a brown butter fat-washed bourbon. And then, of course, there is the Caesar. Timber offers five variations on Canada’s favourite cocktail: Classic, Spicehouse, Pickleback, gin-based Union Jack and the Timber Caesar with its ketchup chip rim. Creating cocktails is a team effort at Timber, with all the bartenders and servers contributing their ideas. Most recently, they’ve been working on summer cocktails including what Dennis calls “a mix between a mojito and a bourbon peach lemonade.” (See Born and Raised recipe at thealchemistmagazine.ca.) “We’re just trying to do really cool things with the drinks, using local ingredients and themes that tie into our Canadiana comfort menu,” Dennis says. “It’s a really cool framework to play on.”

Timber, 1300 Robson St., 604-661-2166, timbervancouver.com, @timbervancouver

Key Party photo

At Key Party, the 1970s are in full swing with retro-inspired cocktails like the B52 and a vegan Grasshopper.

Variations on a theme FIVE VANCOUVER BARS THAT OFFER IMMERSIVE FUN ALONG WITH YOUR COCKTAIL by Gail Johnson 24

tep into ABQ London bar and you’re no longer in the city’s Hackney district but an RV where people in goggles and yellow hazmat suits “cook” their own molecular cocktails. Taking its name from an episode of Breaking Bad, ABQ is a

trip inside lead character Walter White’s mobile meth lab. With its dry ice and gas masks, the spot is just one example of the kinds of immersive experiences that are making

theme bars so popular around the globe. In Paris, for instance, there’s L’Urgence, a medical-themed bar that uses test tubes as tumblers. And New York’s Oscar Wilde pays homage to the playwright through marble statues, Victorian-era furniture and drinks that go by names like the Selfish Giant and Ugly Peacock, nods to his life and work.

Vancouver, too, is home to several bars that do more than pour masterfully mixed drinks by creating otherworldly settings. The Shameful Tiki Room was one of the first, its kitsch décor and Mai Tais having rekindled the city’s passion for tiki culture. The city’s growing collection of theme bars extends far beyond Polynesian beaches, however. Here are a few to consider next time you’re looking for a delicious liquid getaway.

HAIL MARY’S

670 East Broadway, hailmarys.net If you’re unable to confess your sins without a potent cocktail in hand, Hail Mary’s is the answer to your prayers. Catholic iconography adorns the religion-themed late-night hole in the wall, from paintings of the Last Supper in gilded frames to wall plates depicting glowing Virgin Marys. There’s even a sombrero-wearing Christ and other kitschy figurines. To sip, consider a selection from the menu’s Seven Deadly Sins section. Lust is a peachy bourbon sour, while Gluttony is appropriately indulgent, with espresso, Baileys, vodka, crème de cacao and whipped cream. Check out the heavenly Saints washroom or visit the Sinners’ stall and go straight to hell.

Hail Mary’s photo

In fiercely competitive markets and uncertain times, places that serve their slings and sours with a chaser of escapism have an edge, a draw that sets them apart and helps keeps them afloat.

LUST

A divine take on one of the seven deadly sins at Hail Mar y’s. 2 oz bourbon 0.75 oz simple syrup Splash of peach schnapps 2 oz fresh lime juice 1 egg white Dash of Angostura bitters Combine all ingredients in shaker. Dry shake vigorously, then add ice and shake again. Strain into glass and add bitters. Garnish with a Fuzzy Peach candy. Serves 1.

KEY PARTY

2303 Main Street, keyparty.ca You know what to do: drop your keys into the bowl by the front door and see where the evening takes you. Developed by Rachel Zotenburg and David Duprey (Uncle Abe’s, Emerald Supper Club and others), the ’70s-inspired bar adjacent to the Rumpus Room has an accountant’s office as its speakeasy-style front. Inside, it’s dimly lit and sultry with red velvet curtains and a fantastical hand-painted mural. Retro cocktails are poured here alongside snacks like party mix and ants on a log—think Cherry Paralyzers, B52s and a vegan version of the Grasshopper.

DARK MANOR INN

4298 Fraser Street, darkmanorinn.com Cobwebs, gargoyles and candleholder skulls: an old haunted house is the theme behind this windowless bar created by Shameful Tiki founder Rod Moore. Inspired by a Disneyland “doom-buggy” ride called Haunted Mansion, the creepily cool bar has a fabricated backstory from 1886 about a deceased baron and his young wife. Their portraits are on the golddamask-papered walls, along with many other haunting black-and-white photos. Playfully tasty whisky-forward cocktails include Pills, Potions and Quack Nostrum, made with whisky, cinnamon, ginger and lime. Served in a footed goblet with a glow-in-the-dark ice cube, it’s topped with a peated malt air or foam, resembling a witch’s cauldron. Arsenic and Ash, consisting of a house malt-whisky blend, red wine, Aperol, egg white and lemon ash, is garnished with long strands of lime peel and a dried rose, evoking the ground you might see surrounding a tombstone.

Key Party photo

SPICED APRICOT SOUR T his cocktail from Key Party is sweetly spicy and just sophisticated enough. 1.5 oz chai-spiced rye (see note) 0.5 oz apricot brandy 1 oz egg white 2 oz lemon juice Generous bar spoon of apricot preserve

0.5 oz simple syrup (see note) 2 dashes orange bitters (available at Gourmet Warehouse, Welks or Modern Bartender)

Add all ingredients into a shaker without ice and dry shake. Add ice and shake again. Double/ fine strain into a large coupe. Garnish with cinnamon bark and a brandied apricot. Serves 1. Notes: To make the chai-spiced rye, purchase your favourite chai tea and put a bag or two directly into a bottle of Canadian rye. Let it steep for at least 24 hours. To make simple syrup, bring 1 cup each sugar and water just to a boil, stirring frequently, until fully dissolved. To make the brandied apricot garnish, drop dried apricots into brandy and let them soak at least overnight.

THE FIRE AT THE MILL

T his cocktail was created by Edmonton’s James Grant, and is featured on the list at T he Black Lodge. Mist/rinse of peaty whisky 1 oz rosemary-infused gin (see note) 1 oz Scotch whisky

0.5 oz medium dry sherry 0.5 oz ginger syrup 0.5 oz lemon juice 2 dashes Angostura bitters

Rinse the glass with a smoky whisky such as Laphraoig Quarter Cask (alternatively, you can use an atomizer and spray the whisky over the surface of the drink when it is finished). Shake all ingredients over ice and strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Garnish with lemon twist. Serves 1. Note: To make a rosemary-infused gin, add 3 to 5 rosemary sprigs to a bottle of London Dry style gin, such as Beefeater. Steep for 3 to 7 days, then remove the rosemary.

THE BLACK LODGE

317 East Broadway, blacklodgerestaurant.com This vegetarian restaurant and bar is a re-creation of David Lynch’s surreal drama Twin Peaks. Four small log “cabins” make for cozy tables; the hallway to the washroom evokes the mind-bending Red Room; and firewood and a framed photo of the murdered Laura Palmer are among the many details that bring the warped and confounding show to life. Die-hard fans will appreciate cocktails that go by names like Fire at the Mill, with rosemaryinfused gin, and the vodka-centred Audrey’s Curiosity. Of course, these should be accompanied by a slice of Damn Fine Cherry Pie.

Black Lodge photo

STORM CROW TAVERN AND ALEHOUSE

1305 Commercial Drive, 1619 West Broadway, stormcrow.com With two locations (the Tavern and the Alehouse), this so-called “nerd bar” has every board game you can imagine: Monopoly, Apples to Apples, Catan, Trivial Pursuit, Blokus… It’s also the only place in town that offers a Dungeons & Dragons dining experience with your own personal DM, or Dungeon Master. Various games, comics, TV shows and movies inspire menu items; cocktails include Romulan Ale, a twoounce concoction of vodka, peach schnapps, Blue Curaçao, lemon juice, soda and Star Trek dilithium crystals (a type of mint); Solar Beam is a nod to Pokémon, with white and Malibu rum, Bols Blue, pineapple juice and fresh basil. Let your geek flag fly.

Return of the green fairy THE SPIRIT THAT SUPPOSEDLY DROVE A GENERATION OF FRENCH ARTISTS MAD IS BACK IN B.C., WHERE DISTILLERS ARE REINVENTING ABSINTHE by Charlene Rooke

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t’s all fun and games until someone loses an ear. Vincent Van Gogh’s escapades might have delivered the final cut to the fashionable, anise-flavoured spirit absinthe, invented in Switzerland in the late 18th century and favoured by Belle Époque bohemians. Seen as highly addictive and dangerous, it was banned in the U.S. and much of Europe for nearly a century, until 2007. Likely the poor quality or high-proof base spirit—not the relatively small amount

The traditional way to serve absinthe is by filling a fountain like this one at Botanist with ice water, then dripping it through a sugar cube on a spoon into the spirit, where it creates the cloudy effect known as the louche. Dan Toulgoet photo

of hallucogenic thujone, naturally found in absinthe’s bittering agent, wormwood (Artemesia absinthium)—was responsible for absinthe-attributed naughtiness. But its reputation as the bad boy of the spirits world persists, as does its role in cocktails, particularly of the French-influenced New Orleans school, such as the Sazerac, Corpse Reviver No. 2 and La Louisiane. Here are five local absinthes to try, from newcomers to B.C.’s standardbearers.

GREEN FROG ABSINTHE

The Alchemist Distiller (65% ABV) Being from the mountainous regions of France where absinthe is a cultural tradition, Simon Buttet and Sandrine Jacques made it one of the inaugural spirits at their new Summerland distillery. It’s called Green Frog, for its chlorophyllenhanced shade and “because we’re French,” Buttet jokes. He uses wormwood and lemon balm, plus licorice, star anise and fennel seeds to obtain both fresh and earthy anise notes, distilling some botanicals into his high-proof apple spirit and infusing others using a gin-basket method. Adding ice water creates a glorious cloud that one taster said “looks like an opal,” the coveted louching effect created when essential oils are chilled out of solution. Buttet says, “The more alcohol, the more flavour it can carry. That’s the reason for the 65 per cent.”

PSYCHEDELIC JELLYFISH ABSINTHE

Tofino Distilling (73% ABV) Embracing absinthe’s rogue reputation with an overproof spirit flavoured by anise, fennel, hyssop, lemon balm and “as much wormwood as we can,” distillery cofounder Neil Campbell used a traditional 1858 recipe and had his product labtested to ensure safe thujone levels. “We’re trying to revive the fun element,” says Campbell, who says tasting-room visitors can be a little scared of tasting the product initially. Whimsical, fluorescentbright labels and absinthe cocktails like a lavender-tinged lemonade (see recipe) convert them. “At the end of the day it’s a high-proof spirit with a cool lore. Is it going to make you hallucinate? No. But we can keep up the cryptic element of it.” Use it in: Tip-toes in the Tulips (a lavender-scented lemonade)

Use it in: A Sazerac

TIP-TOES IN THE TULIPS

T his floral, low-proof cocktail comes from Tofino Distilling and is a cool refresher on a hot day.

1 oz absinthe 2.5 oz fresh squeezed lemon juice

5 oz lavender syrup 5 oz still water

Stir the ingredients together in a mixing glass, then divide between two Collins glasses and fill them with ice. Garnish with a sprig of lavender or other edible flower. Serves 2. Note: To make a lavender simple syrup, place 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup water and 1 Tbsp food-safe lavender blossoms in a small pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. Simmer for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let syrup steep about 30 minutes. Strain, cool completely and pour into a sterilized jar.

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THE DEVIL’S CLUB ORGANIC ABSINTHE

Pemberton Spirits (60% ABV) One of the world’s only absinthes distilled from organic potato spirit uses a blend of traditional (anise, fennel) and local foraged (Devil’s Club Root, Oregon grape, hops, hemp seed) herbs and botanicals, including wormwood grown on the distillery’s organic farm. “It’s such a vigorous plant that we now have to control it,” says manager of product development Lorien Schramm. It’s rested with more botanicals to achieve a peridot-coloured final product that’s “natural, balanced and more herbal than anise-dominant.” Use it in: The Green Beast

BABA YAGA ABSINTHE

Arbutus Distillery (60% ABV) Arbutus Distillery owner Mike Pizzitelli calls his bartender-candy absinthe, named for a mythical Eastern European witch, “kind of a meld of traditional absinthe and B.C. craft.” Distilled with wormwood, anise, fennel, lemon balm and mint, then steeped in a secret mix of local and traditional botanicals, its mentholcrispness refreshingly balances its blacklicorice magic.

Though the spirit is lime green when bottled, its plant-based natural colour fades over time to a chartreuse shade, even though its wildly illustrated but functional paper wrap helps protect it from sunlight. “If your absinthe has a bright mouthwash colour, it’s probably dyed,” Pizzitelli says. Use it in: Bohemian Mule

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THE GREEN BEAST T his moder n take on an absinthe frappé was invented about a decade ago by French bartender Charles Vexenat for Per nod Ricard. At Pemberton Spirits, they make it with T he Devil’s Club Organic Absinthe instead.

1 oz simple syrup 1 oz absinthe 1 oz fresh lime juice

4 oz water Garnish: 4 slices cucumber

Add all ingredients to a Collins glass with ice. Garnish with the cucumber slices and stir. Serves 1. Alternatively: Muddle 3 cucumber slices in a cocktail shaker. Add absinthe, simple syrup, ice and shake. Strain into Collins glass filled with ice, then top with 2 oz water. Stir and garnish with additional cucumber slice. Serves 1.

TABOO

Okanagan Spirits (60% ABV) When Okanagan Spirits opened in 2007, “We realized that absinthe had never been banned in Canada,” says the distillery’s CEO, Tyler Dyck. And so Canada’s first genuine absinthe was born. Its base spirit is distilled from Okanagan cherries, macerated with botanicals for a few months, then redistilled. “Hundreds” of test batches originally went into getting the perfect flavour, subtle green colour and ideal louche. On a recent trip to southern France, Dyck saw absinthe still enjoyed midday in cafés by imbibers engrossed in conversation. “I love sitting around with a good group of people and talking about art, or books—it really seems to be a drink that brings that out.” Use it in: Absinthe Mojito

Jakub Janco photo

BOHEMIAN MULE

At Arbutus Distiller y, they use their own house-made ginger beer, but any good commercial one would work as well. 1 oz Baba Yaga Absinthe 0.5 oz fresh lime juice Ginger beer Pour absinthe and lime juice over ice in a copper mule mug, then top with ginger beer. Serves 1.

ABSINTHE MOJITO Okanagan Spirits’ anise-flavoured take on the Cuban classic. 1 oz freshly squeezed lime juice 1 tbsp sugar 6 mint leaves

Jeremie Dyck photo

1 oz Taboo Absinthe 1 cup crushed ice Sparkling water Garnish: 1 lime wheel

In a double rocks or similar glass, muddle lime juice, sugar and mint leaves. Add absinthe and stir. Fill glass with crushed ice and top with sparkling water. Garnish with a lime wheel. Serves 1.

Meet the Tempo Family

BC MADE CRAFT GINS AND GIN COCKTAILS

HOME BAR

DIY Gin & Tonic MAKE SUMMER’S FAVOURITE COCKTAIL YOUR VERY OWN WITH THESE BESPOKE IDEAS Story by Justin Taylor · Photos by Dan Toulgoet

in is unlike any other spirit. Simply put, gin is a distilled grain mash that produces a neutral alcohol or vodka. The spirit is then redistilled with botanicals, herbs and spices to achieve the final product. It doesn’t rely on aging in oak barrels like whisky, and it doesn’t rely on one agricultural product to achieve its flavour, like agave for tequila. The infusion process will determine the flavour profile of each gin. In other words, gin is essentially a botanical-flavoured vodka. And that means, even though not very many of us will ever have access to a still, we can make our own quality gins by working with infusions. Except for juniper, which all gins must have, there are no rules on

the amount or the types of “flavour” that a distiller or gin maker can use. With some quick research you will find many common ingredients used by distillers, but it is the type, the amount, and what they leave out that creates the artist’s expression. In these pages, I will show you some simple ways you can achieve a quality gin all on your own. I will also show you some unique ingredients that will produce gins with spectacular colour and vibrancy that will go way beyond anything Miss Hannigan could ever concoct in her bathtub. And for our spirit-free friends who still love the flavour of a good Gin and Tonic, I will show you a simple gin syrup bound to quench your thirst.

ABOVE: Before you start, assemble your ingredients.

HOW TO MAKE GIN AT HOME Gather the ingredients: 1 bottle (750 mL) good vodka 3 Tbsp juniper berries 1 Tbsp coriander seeds 34

Choose your flavour: ROYAL GIN 10 dried butterfly pea flowers 2 dried makrut (kaffir) lime leaves Peel of 1 mandarin orange (white pith removed) 3 slices fresh ginger root 2 slivers licorice root

LA BICICLETTA GIN 1 tsp dried lemon balm 5 cracked cardamom seeds Peel of 1 lemon (pith removed) 1 tsp burdock root 2 slivers licorice root 1 sprig fresh rosemary 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 sprig fresh oregano

In a sterilized 4-cup (1 L) mason jar, add the vodka, juniper berries and coriander. Seal the jar and let rest for 24 hours.

Open jar and add remaining ingredients. Let rest for another 24 hours.

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Strain the liquid through a coffee filter to remove suspended particles. Pour liquid into a sterilized 750 mL bottle.

Seal with a tight-fitting lid and label. The gins will keep in a cool, dark place for several months.

Cocktails created by Justin Taylor

ROYAL GIN & TONIC

L A BICICLETTA GIN & TONIC

Butterfly pea flowers add a royal purple hue to this citr usy-floral G&T.

Bright, fresh and lightly herbal, this G&T will whisk you to an Italian piazza.

2 oz. Royal Gin 36 0.5 oz mandarin juice

0.25 oz. simple syrup 4 oz tonic water

Build in order over fresh ice in a Collins glass. Garnish with mandarin slices and dried flowers. Serves 1.

2 oz La Bicicletta Gin 0.5 oz lemon juice

0.25 oz simple syrup 4 oz tonic water

Build in order over fresh ice in a stemmed wine glass or goblet and stir. Garnish with fresh rosemary and lemon zest. Serves 1.

SPIRIT FREE GIN SYRUP 4 cups water 2 cups white sugar Â˝ cup cracked juniper berries

2 tsp cracked coriander seeds 8 cracked cardamom pods Peel of 2 oranges

Combine all ingredients in a sauce pot. Bring to a boil stirring frequently. Reduce heat to medium. Continue to simmer until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and cool completely, then fine strain ingredients. Bottle, seal, label, and refrigerate. Will keep, chilled, for up to two weeks. Makes about 4 cups (1 L).

SPIRIT FREE GIN & TONIC T his zero-proof G&T will ensure all your friends can enjoy summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quintessential cocktail. 1 oz. spirit-free gin syrup 0.75 oz fresh squeezed lime juice 5 oz tonic water In a highball or Collins glass, build ingredients in order over fresh ice and stir. Garnish with fresh rosemary and lime. Serves 1.

CLASSICS

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The Caesar

CANADA’S COCKTAIL HITS THE BIG FIVE-OH by Joanne Sasvari

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his year Canada’s favourite cocktail turned 50. And like many a middle-aged bon vivant, it has been undergoing something of a makeover. The Caesar was famously invented in 1969 by a Calgary bartender named Walter Chell, who was tasked with creating a drink to celebrate the opening of a new Italian restaurant at The Calgary Inn (now The Westin).

Inspired by the popularity of the Bloody Mary and the umami-rich flavours of spaghetti alle vongole, he mixed together vodka, tomato juice, clam nectar and spices and created Canadian cocktail history. Mind you, that wasn’t the first time someone mixed vodka, tomato and clam juice in a glass. A similar drink called a Smirnoff Smiler was introduced at Manhattan’s Polonaise

SHAKE UP YOUR CAESAR

Bored with the Caesar recipe you’ve been using since college? Head over to the Mott’s website and you can find 50 recipes for 50 years of the Caesar, enough for a year of brunches. Try the Smoked Lime & Tequila Caesar. mottsclamato.ca

nightclub in 1953. In 1962, the Baker Hotel in Dallas served a drink called the Imperial Clam Digger. And in 1968, Seagram president Victor Fischel and Mott’s Clamato marketer Ray Anrig reportedly invented a seasoned tomato, clam and vodka cocktail called the Clamdigger at their headquarters, just two blocks from the Polonaise. But no matter. Chell invented the Caesar, and we’re glad he did, because it has become our go-to brunch cocktail and hangover cure, as well as our preferred aperitif, nightcap and just-about-any-time cocktail. As for the name, Chell called it a Caesar, but it also became known as a Bloody Caesar after one of his customers tasted the drink one day and said, “Walter, that’s a damn good bloody Caesar.” Whatever you call it, the drink was, apparently, an instant hit in Calgary, though it took a little longer to become popular in the rest of Canada. It’s still never really caught on outside our borders, except in places with enclaves of Canadians. But we’re OK with that.

In 2009 Parliament declared it our official cocktail. In 2015, Canada celebrated its first National Caesar Day (it’s held each year on the Thursday before the May long weekend, making it the unofficial kickoff to summer). And according to Mott’s, the company that makes Clamato juice, we drink some 407 million Caesars a year. Not bad for a nation of only 35 million people. Not too surprisingly, after 50 years, the Caesar has undergone some changes. The basic recipe is still the same: an ounce of vodka, Caesar mix, a dash or two of hot sauce and Worcestershire sauce, lots of ice, a celery salt rim and celery garnish. But right from the beginning, bartenders started playing with the seasonings, adding a dash of horseradish here and a splash of pickle juice there. And they switched up the spirit too, replacing the vodka with the botanical bite of gin or the smoky allure of mezcal.

A CURE FOR WHAT AILS YOU?

The Caesar is our favourite brunch cocktail for many reasons, but chief among them is its reputation as a hangover cure. But does it work? Let’s see. It’s got plenty of spices to settle your queasy stomach. It’s loaded with vitamins and minerals to replenish your depleted body. It’s thirst quenching. And it’s got just enough alcohol to ease your morning after withdrawal symptoms. It may not be a complete cure for your bad decisions, but it sure can’t hurt.

Then in 2013, Vancouver-based Walter Craft Caesar Mix was introduced, an all-natural, Ocean Wise alternative to Clamato. (They now offer classic spice, mild spice, smoky maple and vegan, which is made with dulse, a type of seaweed.) In 2017 Simp’s Syrups from Kelowna introduced their Serious Caesar Mix, which is vegan as well as glutenand MSG-free and comes in a dill pickle version. And, of course, craft bartenders have been making their own artisanal variations all along. But where the Caesar really stands out is in the realm of garnish. Whoever suggested we Canadians were a shy retiring lot clearly hasn’t seen what we’ve done to our national cocktail. Forget the simple celery stick or pickled asparagus spear. How about a cheeseburger on a stick? Some fried cheese curds? A couple of slices of smoked salmon? A roast chicken? All that and more?

Two new made-inB.C. Caesar mixes have changed the national cocktail.

Photo courtesy of Notch8

Just for National Caesar Day, Notch 8 at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver offered this glorious beast of a Caesar for $99.

Perhaps the most gloriously excessive Caesar ever could be found this year on National Caesar day (May 16) at Notch 8 at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver. On that day only, you could order the Anniversary Caesar, which came topped with a chorizo calzone, deep-fried clam po’boy, two BBQ pork sliders, two prime ribstuffed Yorkshire puddings, two fried chicken skewers, two grilled prawn skewers and a garnish of pickled vegetables and celery sticks, all for only $99. Now that’s how to celebrate a big birthday.

DONNELLY CAESAR With a fe w aromatic tweaks, the Donnelly Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Trevor Kallies has updated the classic cocktail created by Walter Chell in 1969. If you prefer it zero proof, he sug gests substituting Seedlip non-alcoholic spirit for the vodka. 2 oz Absolut vodka OR Seedlip Garden 108 1 dash Tabasco hot sauce 1 dash Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce Top with Walter Caesar Mix

Garnish: Celery salt rim Skewer of Castelvetrano olive, pickled onion and cucumber spear 1 lime wedge Sprig of rosemary and thyme

Rim a footed beer glass with celery salt. Place all the ingredients (except garnish) in the glass, fill with ice, and stir gently. Garnish with the skewer of olive, onion and cucumber, the lime wedge and sprigs of rosemary and thyme; using a torch, burn the herbs for a smoky aroma. Serves 1.

Photo courtesy of Donnelly Group

STILL LIFE

Roll out the barrel WHERE B.C. WAS ONCE A MA JOR BARREL PRODUCER, TODAY DISTILLERS ARE SCRAMBLING TO FIND CASKS by Charlene Rooke 42

here’s a spot on the Seawall of Vancouver’s northeast False Creek that should be a pilgrimage—or maybe mourning grounds—for B.C. whisky fans. Under the Cambie Bridge in Coopers’ Park, a plaque marks where

the Sweeney Cooperage set up shop in 1889, becoming an important international manufacturer of wooden barrels. It closed in 1981, three decades too early for the current demand from B.C. distillers.

RIGHT: For decades, the Sweeney Cooperage near the Cambie Street Bridge was part of the British Empire’s biggest barrel-making company. It closed in 1981. City of Vancouver Archives photo OPPOSITE PAGE: Whisky and barrels at Legend Distilling in Naramata. Jason Lehoux photo

The vanilla and spice flavours we take for granted in small-batch whisky are hard earned. Three years of wood-aging is an essential requirement for a whisky in Canada—a country with virtually no working coopers. (OK, there’s at least one in Ontario who prefers to remain obscure.) Western North America doesn’t even really grow the types of oak necessary for quality barrels (though Seattle’s Westland distillery is experimenting with Oregon Garry oak). While big distilleries order thousands of used 200-litre American standard barrels—which can only be used once in bourbon production—acquiring them can be a challenge for small distilleries.

wood. He also has a secret weapon: former Okanagan Barrel Works cooper Cal Craik, who closed his business in 2014, “still lives in town and has helped me with barrel repairs, which is so valuable,” says Stevely. Craik is a godsend when barrels leak or get damaged in transport. Just to the north, wine-country neighbours Legend Distilling source three types of former wine barrels to age Wyatt, their first whisky release. “We have an excellent supply of quality French oak barrels all around us that have been used for wine, Port-style and other fortified wines, so why not utilize them?” says distillery co-owner Dawn Lennie.

“When I built my business plan, a previously used ex-bourbon barrel was $120… I just bought one yesterday that was $300. I should have invested in barrels 10 years ago!” says Grant Stevely, owner and distiller at the Dubh Glas distillery near Oliver. Aside from rising prices, he faces other challenges: demand from the global whisky industry, barrel brokers who take their cut and the small quantity he needs.

Award-winning Lohin McKinnon, made at Central City Brewers & Distillers in Surrey, looks further afield. With more than 2,000 barrels of whisky aging, marketing director Dustin Sept tells me, “We play to the roots of what built our brand on the beer side of things, which is using wood and other techniques to push the

Stevely uses everything from small socalled octaves to used quarter-casks from Laphroaig to half-size barrels customcoopered in the U.S. from ex-bourbon

WHEN I BUILT MY BUSINESS PL AN, A PREVIOUSLY USED EX-BOURBON BARREL WAS $120… I JUST BOUGHT ONE YESTERDAY THAT WAS $300.

A range of the barrels used at Dubh Glas distillery near Oliver, B.C. Dubh Glas photo

boundaries of flavour, and doing things that really no one is doing in B.C. or even the world.” That includes a tequilabarrel-finished whisky that came out last year, as well as casks once used for aging everything from rum to Sauternes wine to Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry. “A Muscat white wine-finished whisky will be next,” Sept says, with one finished in Ontario VQA wine barrels now. Beyond the supply chain, used barrels pose other challenges. “When we procure something for re-use, it needs to be wet, it needs to be fresh. If they’ve been sitting too long you may not get the flavour you

want out of them. It really is an artisanal experience when the distiller is filling these barrels and trying to get what he wants from them,” says Sept. In many a B.C. distillery, you’ll also see the Black Swan logo on heads of barrels from 20 to 200 litres in size. The Minnesota cooperage caters to craft producers with its patented “honeycomb” carved barrel staves, which expose spirits to greater wood surface area for faster aging. Tellingly, the Best New Whisky at the Canadian Whisky Awards this year was B.C.-aged Bearface, a flavour-bomb product of seven years in American, French and—in a first for Canadian whisky—a three-year-old air-dried virgin Hungarian oak cask. Based on a tip that master blender Andres Faustinelli got from a cooper in Napa, it gave “rye-like notes and a rich texture” to the corn whisky, he says. Until B.C. raises a new generation of coopers, it’s innovations like this that will keep our whisky glasses full.

Barrels of Lohin McKinnon whisky at Central City Brewers & Distillers in Surrey. Dustan Sept photo

La Mula

Origami Social photo

2 oz Koch Espadín Mezcal 0.5 oz Lime 0.5 oz Hibiscus Syrup 1 oz Passion Fruit Purée 2 dashes Angostura Bitters Ginger Beer

Add ingredients to a Collins glass, ﬁll with ice, top with ginger beer. Garnish with lime wedge and mint sprig.

1014 Main Street • bodegaonmain.ca • Open Daily 11am-midnight Happy Hour Daily 3pm-6pm • Brunch Saturday & Sunday 11am-3pm Gran Reserva Lower Lounge • DJ • Private Bookings Open Friday & Saturday 6pm-2am • Sunday 6pm-1am @bodegaonmain @bodegaonmainVan #bodeganights

Come for the craft spirits, stay for the craft cocktails. The Drinkery at Roots and Wings now open for cocktails. 45

7897 240th St., Langley www.rootsandwingsdistillery.ca

TASTING PANEL

Photos by Dan Toulgoet

A botanical bonanza

The 12 international gins were tasted blind so the panel could focus on the flavours.

THE ALCHEMIST TASTING PANEL GATHERS FOR A ROUND OF INTERNATIONAL GINS

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ummer is the season for refreshing gin cocktails, so it was only natural to think juniper for this issue’s tasting panel. Juniper, of course, is the signature flavour that defines gin, which is typically a grain spirit (though there are some fruit-based ones) that has been infused with botanicals that can include citrus peel, flowers, herbs, spices, stems, roots, seeds and fruits. Think gin and you tend to think London Dry, the crisp, juniper-forward style developed in London in the 1830s. But there are a wide range of styles from all

over the world. To sample a selection of them, we gathered at Tableau Bar Bistro with some of the city’s top barkeeps: Alex Black, bar manager of Wildebeest; Sabrine Dhaliwal, cocktail consultant and Pourhouse bartender; Adam Domet, bar manager of Pourhouse; J-S Dupuis, beverage director of Wentworth Hospitality; Robyn Gray of the Rosewood Hotel Georgia; and Ryan Johnson, bar manager of Tuc Craft Kitchen. The panel blind-tasted 12 international gins. Here’s what they had to say.

The lineup featured gins from Japan, Italy, Spain and Canada, as well as the spirit’s traditional UK home.

TANQUERAY, $25.49, 40% ABV This is one of the oldest of the London Dry gins (though it’s now produced in Scotland). The bartenders detected lots of juniper and peppery notes. “It’s a super classic London Dry. Ain’t nothing wrong with that.” Black said. “It’s perfect for the home bartender,” said Dhaliwal. Gray added: “A classic well gin.” Cocktail: Gray suggested a Negroni, but Black countered with: “I don’t think it’s strong enough for a Negroni. G&T, classic two-to-one measure.”

THIS IS WHAT YOU WANT FOR THE SUMMER. A LIT TLE LEMON, A LIT TLE SODA. LUXARDO SOUR CHERRY GIN, $50.58, 37.5% ABV Although the gins were tasted blind, there were few surprises for a group of bartenders who know their way around a back bar. This was one of them, a new product from a company known for its maraschino liqueur. It had very little juniper on the nose, but an appealingly tart, juicy cherry flavour. “It’s like a vermouth,” Dhaliwal said. “It’s tasty.” Cocktail: “It’s kind of a gin liqueur. You’d make your creative cocktails with this. You’re not going to find it in your classic cocktails,” Dupuis said. Gray suggested enjoying it on the rocks, while Dhaliwal thought it would work well in a gin fizz: “This is what you want for the summer. A little lemon, a little soda,” she said.

Ryan Johnson noses one of the gins.

The tasting panel, from left: Sabrine Dhaliwal, Ryan Johnson, Alex Black, J-S Dupuis, Adam Domet and Robyn Gray.

HENDRICKS SMALL BATCH, $44.99, 44% ABV There was a time when the cucumberand-rose Scottish gin was ubiquitous in Vancouver. One sniff and Dhaliwal cracked, “2010 is calling…” and Gray responded, “…and they want their gin back.” He added, “It’s a new western style gin. I was surprised to find there’s

elderflower in the botanical mix. And the rose and cucumber are distilled by perfumers.” Johnson also detected coriander and citrus, while Dupuis concluded, “It’s pretty. Dainty. Delicate.” Cocktail: Gin and tonic with a cucumber slice. “You can’t really do anything classic with Hendrick’s, but it’s a good gin,” Black said. Dupuis added: “This is perfect for people who like gin Martinis without vermouth.” BEEFEATER, $22.99, 40% ABV The bargain of the bunch was also one of the favourites. The bartenders felt the classic Beefeater had complex notes of citrus, spice and florals, with a nice roundness, good balance and appealing

Think all gins are clear and juniper-driven? The Luxardo and Ungava beg to differ with their pops of flavourful colour.

BEEFEATER IS THE GIN EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE AT HOME BECAUSE IT’S SO VERSATILE. viscosity. “There’s a lot more soft, expressive notes than the first one (Tanqueray), which was a lot more peppery,” Domet said. Added Dhaliwal: “Beefeater is the gin everyone should have at home because it’s so versatile.” Cocktail: Everyone agreed that this would work well in pretty much every classic gin cocktail. “It’s good in your Corpse Revivers and Last Words,” Domet said. “Or a nice wet Martini, with a long strip of lemon.” UNGAVA CANADIAN PREMIUM GIN, $37.49, 43.1% ABV The bright saffron colour of this Canadian gin comes from Arcticsourced botanicals that include cloudberries, Labrador tea and rose hips. Johnson detected “honey and tropical notes.” Dupuis felt it had a peppery nose. Others commented on its high acidity and clean flavour. But Black said, “For as bright as it is, it’s boring on the palate.” Cocktail: “It would go well with tea,” Gray said, and Domet noted that he uses it in a cocktail with a peppermint tea syrup that he calls a Bitter Southside.

TOP: Alex Black detects some of the more elusive botanical notes.

SIPSMITH, $46.99, 41.6% ABV The first gin to be distilled within London’s boundaries in nearly two centuries, this is an aromatic update of a traditional London Dry. The bartenders described it as floral, delicate, earthy, savoury, textured. “It’s

very pretty,” Johnson said, “and it has a beautiful roundness.” Dhaliwal added, “It tastes like walking through the forest after the rain.” “There’s a word for that,” Black said. “Percocet…no that’s not it. Petrichor, that smell after the rain.”

ABOVE: Adam Domet matches gins to the cocktails they work best in.

make a 20th Century with this. A classic 20th Century. No egg white,” Dupuis added.

Sabrine Dhaliwal celebrates all the creative cocktail options gin has to offer.

Cocktail: A Gibson or Negroni. As Domet said, “This is your classic stirred gin cocktail.” ROKU, $48.99, 43% ABV Roku is a new premium gin created by the House of Suntory in Osaka, Japan. “Now that’s interesting,” Dupuis said. “Very different from everything we’ve tried. Yuzu, floral, lemon.” Others detected notes of preserved lemon, pomelo and clementine, and layer upon layer of complex flavour. As Black said: “This is a killer gin. Super approachable. I don’t need anything else to go in this glass.” 50

Cocktail: “This would make a really good Martini,” Dhaliwal said. “I would

NOW THAT’S INTERESTING. VERY DIFFERENT FROM EVERY THING WE’VE TRIED. YUZU, FLORAL, LEMON.

THE BOTANIST ISLAY DRY, $46.99, 46% ABV Produced by the venerable scotch whisky house Bruichladdich, this gin is famous for using 22 botanicals hand-foraged from the island of Islay. “It’s super soft and elegant,” Johnson said. “I love this gin. I absolutely love this gin,” Dupuis said, summing up the general opinion. “There’s a beautiful balance of aromas. That’s a great gin.” Cocktail: Johnson suggested a French 75, but Domet disagreed: “A dirty Martini. I mean subtly dirty, nothing disgusting. Maybe some saline solution instead of the brine.” GIN MARE, $68.26, 40% ABV This Spanish gin is unique in that it uses olives, rosemary and thyme in its botanical mix for a distinctly Mediterranean flavour. “Now this is a dirty Martini,” Johnson said. Both savoury and citrusy, it made Dhaliwal think of beaches: “Sitting on a patio, eating tapas and drinking G&Ts on the Spanish coast.” “It makes me want to have some cured ham,” Domet added. Cocktail: A Spanish style Gin & Tonic. “A G&T with olives and rosemary,” Gray said. “And half the garden thrown in it,” Black added.

THIS IS A CL ASSIC FRENCH 75 WITH ABSINTHE, ON THE ROCKS, MADE PROPER. BOMBAY SAPPHIRE, $26.49, 40% ABV Despite its premium-brand image, this gin did not wow the panel. The described it as dry, dusty and almost neutral in flavour, likely because Bombay vapour-infuses its botanicals rather than macerating them. “It’s hard to pick anything out of this,” Johnson said. “This is your gin if you like vodka sodas but want to branch out. This is your training wheel gin,” Dupuis said. “It’s the gateway gin,” Dhaliwal chimed in. “The Barefoot wine of the gin world,” Black added, to which Gray said: “It’s the lager of gins.” Cocktail: A highball of some sort. “I think because there’s not a lot of expressiveness, you want this to be as cold as possible,” Domet said. BOMBAY SAPPHIRE EAST LONDON DRY, $28.99, 42% ABV The original with the addition of Thai lemongrass and Vietnamese black peppercorn. “Number 11 is literally number 10 cranked by one. This is when you want to get out of the gateway,” Dupuis said. “It’s a good modern cocktail gin.” “It’s much more expressive than the last one,” Domet added.

J-S Dupuis compares the Luxardo Sour Cherry Gin to “a gin liqueur.”

Cocktail: “I think it would be good in Cosmo or a Clover Club,” Dhaliwal suggested. “Or a Ramos Gin Fizz,” Johnson added. BOMBAY SAPPHIRE STAR OF BOMBAY, $39.99, 47.5% ABV The tasting ended on a high note with Bombay’s premium expression, which is made with 12 botanicals including bergamot, orange peel and ambrette seed. “I get a fennel note,” Black said. “This is good.” “It’s fucking delicious,” Gray added. “This is their redemption gin: ‘We’re sorry we made Bombay Sapphire.’” Cocktail: “This is a classic French 75 with absinthe, on the rocks, made proper,” Black said.

B.C. DISTILLERY LISTINGS YOUR GUIDE TO THE SPIRIT MAKERS This province’s 65 artisan distilleries are producing everything from vodka to vermouth. Discover B.C.’s best spirits with our updated guide to the producers, tasting rooms and so much more.

VANCOUVER ISLAND & GULF ISLANDS Ampersand Distilling Products: Ampersand Gin, Per Se Vodka, Imperative Dry Vermouth, Nocino 4077 Lanchaster Rd., Duncan 250-737-1880 AmpersandDistilling.com

Arbutus Distillery

Products: Coven Vodka, Empiric Gin, Baba Yaga Absinthe, Grand Visco Brandy, Blue Gin, Forest Dweller Gin, Vanilla Liqueur, Owl’s Screech Vodka, Birch Liqueur, Amaro, Lavender Liqueur, Elderflower Liqueur, Canadian Single Malt Whisky 1890 Boxwood Rd., Nanaimo 250-714-0027 Arbutus-Distillery.com

DISTILLERY LEGEND

(on-site services offered) Tasting room

Cocktail lounge

On-site sales

Food

Tours Many distilleries are small operations. We always recommend calling before your visit to confirm opening hours and product availability.

De Vine Spirits Products: Glen Saanich Single Malt Whisky, Ancient Grains Alternative Whisky, Genever Gin, Vin Gin, New Tom Barrel-Aged Gin, Honey Shine Silver, Honey Shine Amber, Black Bear Spiced Honey Rum, Bianca Vermouth, Moderna Vermouth, De Vine Kiss Strawberry Vodka, Sloe Gin 6181B Old West Saanich Rd., Saanichton 250-665-6983 DeVineVineyards.ca

Fermentorium Distilling Co. Products: Stump Coastal Forest Gin, Hop Drop Elixir, handcrafted tonics 2010 Government St., Victoria 250-380-1912 Fermentorium.ca

Island Spirits Distillery Products: Phrog Gin, Phrog Vodka, Aquavit, Vanilla Vodka, Wicked Orange, Raspberry Eau de Vie, fruit brandies (seasonal), Holunderbluten (elderflower liqueur) 4605 Roburn Rd., Hornby Island 250-335-0630 IslandSpirits.ca

Merridale Craft Spirits Products: Cowichan Gin, Cowichan Copper Gin, Cowichan Vodka, Cowichan XXO Brandy, Cowichan Rhumb, Cowichan Spiced Rhumb, Whisky Jack’s, Cowichan Pear Brandy, Cowichan Cider Brandy, Oaked Harvest Cider, Apple Dessert Cider PO Box 358, 1230 Merridale Rd., Cobble Hill 250-743-4293 MerridaleCider.ca

Moon Distillery Ltd. Products: Espresso Vodka, Shaft Liqueur, Blackberry Liqueur, Loganberry Liqueur, Strawberry Liqueur, Orange Vodka, Lime Vodka, Island Grown Pure Grain Vodka, Citrus Gin 350 A Bay St., Victoria 250-380-0706 MoonDistillery.ca

Pacific Rim Distillery Products: Humpback Vodka, Lighthouse Gin 2-317 Forbes Rd., Ucluelet @PacificRimDistilling

Salt Spring Shine Craft Distillery Products: Hive Vodka, Sting Gin, Honeycomb Moonshine, Apple Pie Moonshine 194 Kitchen Rd., Salt Spring Island 250-221-0728 @SaltSpringShine

Shelter Point Distillery Products: Shelter Point Single Malt Artisanal Whisky, Shelter Point Cask Strength Whisky, Montfort District Lot 141 Single Grain Whisky, French Oak Double Barreled Whisky, Single

Cask Rye, Canada One Artisanal Vodka, Sunshine Liqueur, HandForaged Botanical Gin 4650 Regent Rd., Campbell River 778-420-2200 ShelterPoint.ca

Sheringham Distillery Products: Kazuki Gin, Akvavit, Seaside Gin, Vodka, Red Fife Whisky 252-6731 West Coast Rd., Sooke 778-528-1313 SheringhamDistillery.com

Stillhead Distillery Products: Vodka, London Dry Gin, Wild Blackberry Infused Vodka, Kirsch, Aged Apple Brandy 105-5301 Chaster Rd., Duncan 250-748-6874 Stillhead.ca

Tofino Distillery Products: Vodka, Jalapeño Vodka, Espresso Vodka, West Coast Gin, Old Growth Cedar Gin, Rose Hibiscus Gin, Psychedelic Jellyfish Absinthe Unit G & H, 681 Indutrial Way, Tofino 250-725-2182 TofinoCraftDistillery.com

Victoria Caledonian Brewery and Distillery Products: Mac Na Braiche Single Malt Spirit, whisky casks 761 Enterprise Cres., Victoria 778-401-0410 VictoriaCaledonian.com

Victoria Distillers Products: Victoria Gin, Oaken Gin, Empress 1908 Gin, Left Coast Hemp Vodka, Sidney Spiced, Chocolate Liqueur, Craigdarroch Whisky, Twisted & Bitter bitters 9891 Seaport Pl., Sidney 250-544-8217 VictoriaDistillers.com

Wayward Distillation House Products: Unruly Vodka, Unruly Gin, Wayward Order – Krupnik Spiced Honey Liqueur, Wayward Order – Depth Charge Espresso & Cacao Bean Liqueur, Wayward Order – Drunken Hive Rum, Wayward Order – Elixir 151, Raspberry & Ginger Vodka Infusion, Wayward Order – Char #3 Bourbon Barrel Aged Gin 2931 Moray Ave, Courtenay 250-871-0424 WaywardDistillationHouse.com

LOWER MAINLAND, FRASER VALLEY & B.C. WEST COAST Anderson Distilleries Products: Mare Serenitatis Creme d’ Cafe, Serenitatis Golden Gin, Serenitatis Silver Liquorice, Sweet Serenitatis Limoncello, Sweet Serenitatis Lime’cello, Sweet Serenitatis Orangello, Montague Sunset, Serenitatis Smoked Rosemary Gin 106-3011 Underhill Ave., Burnaby 604-961-0326 AndersonDistilleries.ca

Bruinwood Estate Distillery Products: Aquasen Vodka, Gin, Vanilla Vodka, Chocolate Vodka, Heavenly Honey Liqueur, Nucino 2040 Porter Rd., Roberts Creek 604-886-1371 Bruinwood.com

Central City Brewers & Distillers 54 Products: Lohin McKinnon Single Malt Whisky, Queensborough Gin, Sparrow Rum, Peeled Orange Liqueur, Queensborough Gin Twist,

Queensborough Gin Fizz, Bitters by Christos 11411 Bridgeview Dr., Surrey 604-588-2337 CentralCityBrewing.com

Crow’s Nest Distillery Products: Crow’s Nest Vodka, Crow’s Nest White Rum, Crow’s Nest Spiced Rum 117-667 Sumas Way, Abbotsford 778-251-6002 CrowsNestDistillery.com

Deep Cove Brewers & Distillers Products: Rosemary and Olive Gin, Deep Cove Vodka, Barrel Aged Akvavit (limited), Red Fife Whisky (limited) 2270 Dollarton Hwy., North Vancouver 604-770-1136 DeepCoveCraft.com

Dragon Mist Distillery

Gillespie’s Fine Spirits Products: Sin Gin, Raspberry Gin, VTwin Rye Vodka, Gastown Shine Wheat Vodka, Lemoncello, Café Crema, Booze Witch Shurbs & Elixirs 8-38918 Progress Way, Squamish 604-390-1122 GillespiesFineSpirits.com

Goodridge & Williams Craft Distillers Products: Nütrl Vodka, Northern Grains Whisky, Tempo Renovo Gin, Tempo Fresa Strawberry Gin, Tempo Arándano Blueberry Gin, Sid The Handcrafted Vodka, Western Grains Whisky, Bitterhouse Aperitifs, Nütrl Vodka Soda, Highball Whisky Soda, Tempo Gin Smash, Sid Made Something Else, Nütrl Vodka 7, Tempo Gin Soda Lime 8-7167 Vantage Way, Delta 604-376-0630 gwdistilling.com

The Liberty Distillery Products: Dragon Mist Vodka, Dragon Mist Baijiu, Dragon Mist Gin, Cranberry Liqueur, Coffee Liqueur, Blueberry Liqueur, Limoncello 213-19138 26th Ave., Surrey 604-803-2226 DragonMistDistillery.com

Products: Truth Vodka, Truth Oat Vodka (Distiller’s Reserve), Endeavour Gin, Endeavour Old Tom Gin, Endeavour Gin Origins, Endeavour Pink, Railspur No. 1 – White, Railspur No. 2 – Wildflower Honey, Railspur No. 3 – Switch, Trust Whiskey – Single Grain, Trust Whiskey – Canadian Rye, Trust

CURATE YOUR HOME BAR COLLECTION WITH OUR SELECTION OF LOCAL WINE, BEER & SPIRITS. open daily 10am-11pm • delivery available 1218 west pender, vancouver • 604.685.1212 coalharbourliquorstore.com

Whiskey – Southern, Trust Whisky – Single Cask 1494 Old Bridge St., Vancouver 604-558-1998 TheLibertyDistillery.com

Long Table Distillery Products: London Dry Gin, Cucumber Gin, Bourbon Barrel Aged Gin, Texada Vodka, Långbord Akvavit, Barrel Aged Akvavit, VSOP Reserve ‘Pairs Of Pears’ Brandy, Amaro No. 1 – Linnaeus, Tradizionale Limoncello, Marc Du Soleil 1451 Hornby St., Vancouver 604-266-0177 LongTableDistillery.com

New Wave Distilling

Pemberton Distillery

Products: Illusion Spirit, Rexford Rum, Disillusion Gin, Bride’s Tears, Silver Lining

Products: Schramm Organic Gin, Schramm Organic Potato Vodka, Pemberton Valley Organic Single Malt Whisky, The Devil’s Club – Organic Absinthe, Organic Hemp Vodka, Organic Kartoffelschnaps, Organic Coffee Liqueur, Barrel Aged Apple Brandy, Elderflower Liqueur

3387 Tolmie Rd., Abbotsford @NewWaveDistilling

North West Distilling Co. Products: North West Vodka 104-20120 Stewart Cres., Maple Ridge 604-818-6972 NorthWestDistillingCo.ca

Odd Society Spirits

Lucid Spirits Products: Northern Vodka, Northern Gin, Apple Spirit, B.C. Rye Whisky 105B-8257 92nd St., Delta 604-349-3316 LucidSpirits.ca

Mad Laboratory Distillery Products: ULKERaki, Mad Lab Vodka, Mad Lab Gin6, Mad 56 Dog Single Malt White Spirit, Kombucha Cordial, Viking Vodka 119-618 East Kent Ave., Vancouver MadLabDistilling.com

Products: East Van Vodka, Wallflower Gin, Mongrel Unaged Spirit, Oaken Wallflower Gin, Crème de Cassis, Bittersweet Vermouth, Mia Amata Amaro, Commodore Canadian Single Malt Whisky, Prospector Canadian Rye Whisky, Canadian single malt casks 1725 Powell St., Vancouver 604-559-6745 OddSocietySpirits.com

One Foot Crow Products: Mineral-Infused Vodka, Vodka, Mineral-Infused Gunpowder Gin, Lavender Gin 1050 Venture Way, Gibsons OneFootCrow.com

1954 Venture Pl., Pemberton 604-894-0222 PembertonDistillery.ca

Resurrection Spirits Products: White Rye, Gin, Rosé Gin 1672 Franklin St., Vancouver 604-253-0059 ResurrectionSpirits.ca

Roots and Wings Distillery Products: Vital Vodka, Double Vice Coffee Infused Vodka, Renegade (horseradish-infused vodka), Jackknife Gin, Rebel, Sidekick 7897 240th St., Langley 778-246-5247 RootsAndWingsDistillery.ca

Sons of Vancouver Products: No. 82 Amaretto, Vodka Vodka Vodka, Chili Vodka, Coffee Liqueur Sucks, Craft Blue Curacao

1431 Crown St., North Vancouver 778-340-5388 SonsOfVancouver.ca

Stealth Distilleries Products: Stealth Corn Vodka, Stealth Wheat Vodka #3-20 Orwell St., North Vancouver 604-916-4103 StealthVodka.com

Von Albrecht & Associates Products: XFour Vodka, XFour Chocolate Vodka Cocktail, XFour Blueberry Vodka, XFour Percy’s Lemonade, XFour Xoxolat Chocolate Martini, Percy’s Old Fashioned Lemonade Vodka Cooler, Percy’s Punch Vodka Cooler 2220 Vauxhall Pl., Richmond 604-249-0003 VonAlbrecht.com

The Woods Spirit Co.

Tailored Spirits

Products: Amaro, Cascadian Dry Gin, Limoncello, Barrel Aged Amaro

Products: Gin, Vodka

1450 Rupert St., North Vancouver 778-996-7637 TheWoodsSpiritCo.com

Vancouver 604-619-9615 TailoredSpirits.com

The 101 Brewhouse & Distillery Products: 101 Gin, 101 Vodka 1009 Gibsons Way, Gibsons 778-462-2011 The101.ca

OKANAGAN, KOOTENAYS & INTERIOR After Dark Distillery Products: Copper Island Gin, Monashee Mountain Vodka, After Dark Burner Vodka, Monashee Mountain Whiskey, Monashee Mountain Cherry Moonshine, Loud Mouth Soup, Monashee Mountain Espresso Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Mango Peach Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Maple Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Peach Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Mountain Dew Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Ginger & Honey Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Lemonade Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Iced Tea Moonshine, Monashee Mountain Apple Pie Moonshine

Yaletown Distilling Company

1201 Shuswap Ave., Sicamous 250-836-5187 AfterDarkDistillery.com

Products: Yaletown Small Batch Craft Vodka, Cranberry Vodka, Mandarin Vodka, Tequila Barrel Aged Vodka, Espresso Vodka, Artisan Honey Spirit, Yaletown Small Batch BC Gin, Cucumber Gin, Hopped Gin, Tequila Barrel Aged Hopped Gin, Yaletown Single Malt Canadian Whisky

Alchemist Distiller

1132 Hamilton St., Vancouver 604-669-2266 YTDistilling.com

Products: Libellule Gin, Nectar Apple Liqueur, Green Frog Absinthe 101-18006 Bentley Rd, Summerland 250-317-6454 AlchemistDistiller.ca

Bohemian Spirits Products: Vagabond Vodka, Limited Gin, Colossal Gin, Eclipse Coffee Liqueur, Forester Single Malt Oak Aged Gin 417A 304 St., Kimberley BohemianSpirits.com

Dubh Glas Distillery Products: Noteworthy Gin – New Western Dry, Noteworthy Gin – Barrel Rested, Noteworthy Gin – Navy Strength, Virgin Spirits – Barley 8486 Gallagher Lake Frontage Rd., Oliver 778-439-3580 TheDubhGlasDistillery.com

Elder Bros Farm Distillery Products: Elderflower & Honey Schnapps, Elderflower & Cherry Schnapps, Cherry & Honey Schnapps 3121 Mission Wycliffe Rd., Cranbrook 250-581-2300 ElderBrosFarms.com 58

Endless Summer Distillery Products: Skaha Vodka, Okanagan Apple Pie Moonshine,

Okanagan Peach Pie Moonshine Kelowna EndlessSummerDistillery.com

Estate Thurn Distillery Products: Gin, fruit eaux de vie 5214 Monro Ave., Summerland 250-809-2077 Bodega1117.com

Fernie Distillers Products: No. 9 Mine Vodka, Fernie Fog (Earl Grey Liqueur), Prospector Gin 531 1st Ave., Fernie FernieDistillers.com

Forbidden Spirits Distilling Products: Rebel Vodka, Forbidden Vodka 4400 Wallace Hill Rd., Kelowna 250-764-6011 ForbiddenSpirits.ca

Jones Distilling Products: Mr. Jones Vodka, The Revelstoke Series – Gin No. 1 616 Third St. West, Revelstoke JonesDistilling.com

Kootenay Country Craft Distillery Products: Valhalla Vodka, Kootenay Country Gin, Kootenay Country Honey Vodka 7263 Gustafson Rd., Slocan 250-355-2702 kootenaycountry.ca

Legend Distilling Products: Doctor’s Orders Gin, Shadow in the Lake Vodka, Blasted Brew Spiked Coffee Liqueur, Manitou Orange and Sumac Liqueur, Naramaro, Wyatt Whisky, Black Moon Gin, Silver Moon Gin, Harvest Moon Gin, Slowpoke Farmberry Vodka, Slowpoke Sour Cherry Vodka 3005 Naramata Rd., Naramata 778-514-1010 LegendDistilling.com

Maple Leaf Spirits Products: Lady of the Cask Wine Brandy, Canadian Kirsch, Pear Williams, Skinny Pinot Noir, Skinny Gewürztraminer, Maple Liqueur, Cherry Liqueur 948 Naramata Rd., Penticton 250-493-0180 MapleLeafSpirits.ca @MapleLeafSpirits @Maple_Leaf_Spirits_Inc @MapleLeafSpirit

The Canadian Professional Bartenders Association is a member-run non for profit society committed to establishing and upholding the highest standards in the proud trade of the career bartender. We consider continuous education, pride in service and principled responsibility to be the cornerstones of our profession, ideals we foster by building and maintaining community. The CPBA regularly organizes and executes educational seminars, competitions, product salons and meet-ups, and acts as a liaison between corporate brands and member businesses. Hospitality is our business, and we love it.

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Monashee Spirits Products: Vodka, Vulcan’s Fire Cinnamon Liqueur, Big Mountain Creamer 307 Mackenzie Ave., Revelstoke 250-463-5678 MonasheeSpirits.com

Okanagan Crush Pad Products: Narrative 12 Botanical Gin, Narrative Spirit of the Vineyard, Narrative Fortified 16576 Fosbery Rd., Summerland 250-494-4445 okanagancrushpad.com

Okanagan Spirits Products: Essential Vodka, Family Reserve Vodka, Essential Gin, Evolve Gin, Family Reserve Gin, BC Rye Whisky, BRBN BourbonStyle Corn Whisky, Final Proof BC Hopped Whisky, Laird of Fintry Single Malk Whisky, Okanagan Shine Unaged BRBN Whisky, Taboo Genuine Absinthe, Aquavitus, Blackcurrant Liqueur, Blueberry Liqueur, Cherry Liqueur, Cranberry Liqueur, Haskap Liqueur, Huckleberry Liqueur, Maraschino Liqueur, 60 Raspberry Liqueur, Rhubarb Liqueur, Sea Buckthorn Liqueur, Bartlett Pear (Poire Williams), Bradshaw Plum (Old Italian Prune), Canados, Kirsch Danube, Raspberry Framboise, Gewürztraminer Marc

5204 24th St., Vernon 267 Bernard Ave., Kelowna 250-549-3120 | 778-484-5174 OkanaganSpirits.com

Old Order Distilling Company Products: Heritage Vodka, Legacy Gin, Black Goat Vodka, Blessed Bean Coffee Vanilla Liqueur, Wicked Brew Chocolate Coffee Liqueur, Harvest Raspberry Liqueur, Limited Release Canadian Whisky 270 Martin St., Penticton 778-476-2210 OldOrderDistilling.ca

Taynton Bay Distillers Products: Vodka, Gin, Pickled Vodka, Raspberry Vodka, Gringo’s Revenge, Sinferno Cinnamon Spirit, Ginger Matcha Tea-Infused Cocktail, Strawberry Herbal Tea Infused Cocktail, Orange Turmeric Tea-Infused Cocktail, Blueberry Rooibos Tea Infused Cocktail, Bitters 1701B 6th Ave., Invermere 250-342-5271 TayntonBaySpirits.com

True North Distilleries

1460 Central Ave., Grand Forks 778-879-4420 TrueNorthDistilleries.com

Tumbleweed Spirits Products: Cherry Moonshine, Gin, Rock Creek Rye, Buckie’s Apple Pie Moonshine, Fireweed Whiskey, Nine Mile Creek “Shine,” Maple Moonshine, Vodka #7-6001 Lakeshore Dr., Osoyoos 778-437-2221 TumbleweedSpirits.com

Urban Distilleries Products: Paul’s Tomb Gin, Spirit Bear Espresso Vodka, Spirit Bear Gin, Spirit Bear Naturally Infused Vodkas, Spirit Bear Vodka, Urban Single Malt Whisky, White Bear Spirit, Apricot Schnapps, Blackberry Liqueur, Blackcurrant Liqueur, Blueberry Liqueur, Calvados, Cherry Liqueur, Kirsch, Sweet Mead Honey Wine, Oaked Mead Honey Wine, Okanagan Muscat Grappa, Peach Liqueur, Raspberry Liqueur, Urban Burban – Bourbon Style Whiskey 402-1979 Old Okanagan Hwy, Westbank 778-478-0939 UrbanDistilleries.ca

Vernon Craft Distillery Products: Dominion Rye, Black Dog – After Dark, Hecate Spice Rum, Hulda Rum, Red Plum Brandy, Muscat

Products: Vodka Vernon, 250-306-4455 VernonCraftDistilleries.com

Wynndel Craft Distilleries Products: Apple Brandy, Peach Liqueur, Peach Brandy, Honey Berry Liqueur, Mixed Berry Liqueur, Saskatoon Brandy, Apricot Brandy, Cherry Brandy, Apple Liqueur, Cape Brandy, Saskatoon Schnapps, Cherry Liqueur, Cherry Schnapps, Chili Cherry Vodka, Apricot Schnapps, Apricot Liqueur, Saskatoon Liqueur, Floral Gin, Old Tom Apple Gin 1331 Channel Rd., Wynndel WynndelCraftDistilleries.com

DISTILLERIES COMING SOON

VANCOUVER ISLAND & GULF ISLANDS Copper Kettle Spirits (Ladysmith) James Bay Distillers (Victoria) Western Red Distilling Company (Victoria) Wild Coast Distilling (Cobble Hill)

LOWER MAINLAND, FRASER VALLEY & B.C. WEST COAST

Copper Spirit Distillery (Snug Cove) Montis Distilling (Whistler) New Wave Distilling (Abbotsford) Tallant Distillery (Vancouver)

OKANAGAN, KOOTENAYS & INTERIOR

Distillery 95 (Radium Hot Springs) Lost Boys Distillery (Fernie) Mount 7 Spirits Craft Distillery (Golden) Trench Brewing & Distilling (Prince George) Wiseacre Farm Distillery (Kelowna)

Along with our sister publications, we are proud to support our local distilleries, wineries and breweries.

VOLUME

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Issue 03 S U M M E R I N W I N E C O U N T RY FIGHTING FIRE B AC KC O U N T RY B OT T L E S O R A N G E YO U G L A D? F R A S E R VA L L E Y F L AVO U R S A L S AT I A N F O O D & W I N E B C S U B- A P P E L L AT I O N S ARTISAN CHEESES GA R AG I S T E G R E AT N E S S B.C. W I N E RY L I S T I N G S

thegrowler.ca @thegrowlerbc

VITIS

vitis.ca @vitismag

THE LAST WORD ALL THE BUZZZZZ June is National Pollinator Month. Celebrate all the winged things that keep us alive with an updated classic that’s the Apis patella.

BEES KNEES #2 Bees are some of the busiest pollinators on the planet, responsible for a third of the food we eat. That’s why Fairmont Hotels and Resorts have installed more than 40 apiaries at their properties around the world. At the Chateau Whistler, they’ve built a one-of-a-kind bee hotel designed to attract solitary pollinator bees. That’s the inspiration behind this update on the Prohibitionera cocktail, from the resort’s Mallard Lounge. 2 oz beeswax gin (see note) 0.25 oz vanilla syrup

0.25 oz simple syrup 0.75 oz fresh lemon juice

Dip the rim of a coupe or martini glass in lemon juice then again in dehydrated honey or granulated sugar. Add all ingredients to a martini shaker filled with ice, shake for 5 seconds, and strain into a rimmed glass. Garnish with a lemon twist. Serves 1. Note: To make the beeswax gin, add 1.5 oz foodfriendly beeswax to 10 oz of gin (preferably Ungava) in a vacuum-sealed bag. Using a circulator, cook the gin sous vide for 2.5 hours at 68°C. (Alternatively, use a zip-lock bag and simmer it in a pot of water that does not exceed 70°C.) Cool the bag of gin in an ice bath, then strain through a coffee filter into a sterilized bottle. Will keep for several months.

Photo courtesy of Fairmont Chateau Whistler

cocktail Happy Hour Daily 5pm-6pm Classic Cocktails $5 old fashioned negroni americano fitzgerald french 75

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