Issue 2: 2018
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FROM THE CEO
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he number 9 symbolises good fortune in Thai culture. As such, the date and time of the soft opening of The Peninsula Bangkok - on November 19th, 1998 at 9:09am - was meticulously timed. Since its inception, The Peninsula Bangkok has presented a picture of luxury, elegance and distinction. Located in a prime position overlooking the Chao Phraya River, the hotel has welcomed distinguished guests from around the world for almost two decades, and has been recognised by the world’s top travel publications as not only one of the finest hotels in Bangkok, but in Asia and around the world. In 2003, the property was awarded the prestigious title of ‘Best Hotel in the World’ by Travel + Leisure magazine, an honour that is testament to the exceptional level of service and Thai hospitality provided by our employees This issue of The Peninsula is dedicated to celebrating the 20th anniversary of The Peninsula Bangkok. Festivities will commence in November 2018 and last for a year. In the following pages, we introduce you to some of the people who have helped to sustain the success of this fine property, including the loyal staff who have been part of it since the day it opened. We also offer you a preview of some of the 20 fascinating Peninsula-style immersive cultural experiences that will be on offer throughout the hotel’s 20th anniversary year, each of which has been carefully curated and tailor-made to cater for all ages, interests and tastes. On the subject of culture, we take you on a whirlwind tour of Bangkok’s recently established Creative District, an eclectic and diverse neighbourhood revival which offers visitors new avenues for exploration. This year will also see the staging of the inaugural Bangkok Art Biennale, a fitting tribute to the city’s rapid emergence as an art and culture hub, and in this issue we meet Dr. Apinan Poshyananda, Chief Executive and Artistic Director of the project to learn what is in store for visitors. Dr. Apinan very kindly opened the doors of the East Asiatic Building, one of the key venues in the Biennale, exclusively to our magazine for a photographic opportunity in a venue that has rarely been seen by the public. I hope you will enjoy this diverse cultural adventure, and I look forward to welcoming you to The Peninsula Bangkok, and of course, our other Peninsula hotels around the world.
Clement K M Kwok Chief Executive Officer
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CONTENTS ISSUE 2: 2018
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FROM THE CEO 20 YEARS OF RIVERSIDE MAGIC On November 19th, 1998 The Peninsula Bangkok opened on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, and over the past two decades has been privileged to welcome guests from far and wide. It has also been honoured with myriad awards in the world’s top travel publications by both local and international media alike as not only one of the finest hotels in Bangkok, but in Asia and around the world. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the property and the emergence of its new image as an urban luxury resort.
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DESTINATION DINING REDEFINED After two years of assisting The Peninsula Beijing to redefine destination dining in the Chinese capital, Chef Dominique Martinez is happy to have returned to Thailand to take up a new challenge at The Peninsula Bangkok. Throughout his international career, he has perfected the art of treating the finest local produce with care and respect, and of blending new and trusted f lavours. Guests and local residents can now experience Chef Dominique’s global culinar y inspirations paired with unmistakeable Thai inf luences.
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ROCK AROUND THE WOK The Peninsula Bangkok recently introduced a unique 16-course Degustation Menu at its Cantonese restaurant Mei Jiang. Featuring dishes personally created by the hotel’s Chinese Cuisine Executive Chef Ball Yau, the menu is the first of its kind for a Chinese restaurant in Thailand. Each handcrafted dish is presented in a tasting portion, enabling diners to enjoy the expressive range and quality of Chef Yau’s Cantonese cooking.
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20 YEARS OF SERVICE The Peninsula magazine meets 10 long-serving employees of The Peninsula Bangkok who have served the hotel in their respective roles since it opened its doors in November 1998.
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THE ULTIMATE 20 EXPERIENCES The Peninsula 20 Experiences are designed to give guests deeply immersive, exclusive, and authentic adventures in Bangkok. Think crowded backstreets, 90 year-old Chinese cafés, and temples without tourists – The Peninsula Bangkok aims to take its guests off the beaten track. With something for every budget, interest and fitness level, all of these adventures are hosted by professional = guides with many years of experience in showing visitors the best sights, sounds and tastes of the city.
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CONTENTS 2 ISSUE 2: 2018
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THE ART OF BLISS
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The 150 million Baht (US$4.7 million) inaugural Bangkok Art Biennale 2018 will take place from October 2018 to February 2019 in 20 locations around the city. The four-month extravaganza aims to promote contemporary art and Thai culture, and will feature 70 artists, both international and Thai, who will interpret the theme ‘Beyond Bliss’ through their works. The Peninsula magazine speaks to Prof. Dr. Apinan Poshyananda, Chief Executive and Artistic Director of the project to learn what’s in store for visitors.
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To see the East Asiatic Trading Company building is an encounter with one of Bangkok's most important and colourful expatriates. Between October 2018 and the beginning of February 2019, the period of the staging of the inaugural Bangkok Biennale, hundreds of thousands of visitors will have the opportunity to see the inside of this spectacular historical building, following more than a decade of being out of commission. The Peninsula magazine is granted exclusive access to the building in the run up to one of Bangkok’s most anticipated cultural events.
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FLIGHTS OF FANTASY Phannapast Taychamaythakool, perhaps more pronouncably known as ‘Yoon’ is an emerging Bangkok-based designer and artist. The Thailand native is the Creative Director of the fashion brand Kloset and recently rose to greater fame through her illustration work for Gucci. The talented 31 year-old is also behind the creation of the 20th anniversary logo for The Peninsula Bangkok.
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A RIVERSIDE RENAISSANCE Australian-born David Robinson, an expat who moved to Bangkok in 2002 to volunteer with ActionAid, an international humanitarian agency focused on poverty eradication, is now a Director of Bangkok River Partners and a member of the Creative District Foundation’s steering committee. His mission is to promote the Chao Phraya River as a leading destination for leisure and tourism, part of which involves the evolution of the city’s already flourishing Creative District.
Published by: The Antithesis G/F, 1 Pak Tze Lane Central, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2851 1150 Email: info@theantithesis.net Editor-in-Chief and Creative Director: Ann Tsang Graphic Designer: Christine Lam Cover Image: Phannapast Taychamaythakool
The Peninsula Hong Kong Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong Telephone: (852) 2920 2888 Facsimile: (852) 2722 4170 E-mail: phk@peninsula.com The Peninsula Shanghai No 32 The Bund, 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Road Shanghai 200002, The People’s Republic of China Telephone: (86-21) 2327 2888 Facsimile: (86-21) 2327 2000 E-mail: psh@peninsula.com The Peninsula Beijing 8 Goldfish Lane, Wangfujing, Beijing 100006, The People’s Republic of China Telephone: (86-10) 8516 2888 Facsimile: (86-10) 6510 6311 E-mail: pbj@peninsula.com The Peninsula Tokyo 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tokyo , 100-0006, Japan Telephone: (81-3) 6270 2888 Facsimile: (81-3) 6270 2000 E-mail: ptk@peninsula.com
TRADING PLACES
ROLEX AND CINEMA For decades, Rolex has been linked to the magical and wondrous world of cinema: from appearances of Rolex timepieces in legendary films to the brand’s support of young filmmakers through its philanthropic work. And, more recently, with four distinguished filmmakers and Rolex Testimonees – Kathryn Bigelow, James Cameron, Alejandro G. Iñárritu and Martin Scorsese – as well as through the Rolex partnership with the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.
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THE PENULTIMATE
Media Agents: Hong Kong and Asia OMJ Media Jeremy Orritt Tel: +852 2375-2311 Mobile: 852 91886157 Email: jeremy@omjmedia.com
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Reservations can also be made through: The Peninsula Global Customer Service Centre 5/F, The Peninsula Office Tower, 18 Middle Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong Telephone: (852) 2926 2888 Facsimile: (852) 2732 2933 E-mail: reservationgcsc@peninsula.com
THE PENINSULA is published by The Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels, Limited. Incorporated in 1866 and listed on The Stock Exchange of Hong Kong (00045), HSH is the holding company of a Group which is engaged in the ownership, development and management of prestigious hotel, commercial and residential properties in key locations in Asia, the United States and Europe, as well as the provision of transport, club management and other services. The Peninsula Hotels portfolio comprises The Peninsula Hong Kong, The Peninsula Shanghai, The Peninsula Beijing, The Peninsula Tokyo, The Peninsula New York, The Peninsula Chicago, The Peninsula Beverly Hills, The Peninsula Paris, The Peninsula Bangkok, and The Peninsula Manila. Projects under development include The Peninsula Istanbul, The Peninsula London and The Peninsula Yangon. The property portfolio of the Group includes The Repulse Bay Complex, The Peak Tower and St. John’s Building in Hong Kong; The Landmark in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam; 1-5 Grosvenor Place in London, UK, and 21 avenue Kléber in Paris, France. The clubs and services portfolio of the Group includes The Peak Tram in Hong Kong; Thai Country Club in Bangkok, Thailand; Quail Lodge & Golf Club in Carmel, California; Peninsula Clubs and Consultancy Services, Peninsula Merchandising, and Tai Pan Laundry in Hong Kong.
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ORDERING FROM ADVERTISERS: Advertisers warrant and represent that the descriptions of the products or services advertised are true in all respects. THE HONGKONG AND SHANGHAI HOTELS, LIMITED assumes no responsibility for claims made by advertisers. THE HONGKONG AND SHANGHAI HOTELS, LIMITED, its officers, directors, employees or agents make no recommendations as to the purchase or sale of any product, service or item. All views expressed in all articles are those of the authors and are not necessarily those of THE HONGKONG AND SHANGHAI HOTELS, LIMITED. All content contained within this magazine is the sole property of THE HONGKONG AND SHANGHAI HOTELS, LIMITED and may not be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without authorisation. (c)Copyright 2018 by THE HONGKONG AND SHANGHAI HOTELS, LIMITED. All rights reserved. The Peninsula is a trademark of The Peninsula Intellectual Property Limited.
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Joseph Sampermans, General Manager, The Peninsula Bangkok
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20 YEARS of RIVERSIDE Magic TEXT: ANN TSANG IMAGES: ANTONIO SABA
On November 19th, 1998 The Peninsula Bangkok opened on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, and over the past two decades has been privileged to welcome guests from far and wide. It has also been honoured with myriad awards in the world’s top travel publications by both local and international media alike, as not only one of the finest hotels in Bangkok, but in Asia and around the world. This year marks the 20th anniversary of the property and the emergence of its new image as an urban luxury resort.
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he last time I interviewed Joseph Sampermans was back in early 2016, when he was clad in a hard hat, construction boots and covered in dust, as he oversaw the middle stages of the RMB890 million renovation of The Peninsula Beijing. Today at the helm of The Peninsula Bangkok, he is impeccably dressed, relaxed and a perfectly apt ref lection of the hotel’s recent repositioning as an urban luxury resort. Of course, The Peninsula being The Peninsula, luxury has always been part of the equation, but according to Sampermans, it is time for the Bangkok property to focus on more of a resort experience with a strong emphasis on healthy options through spa, fitness and food. No stranger to Thailand or its capital city, Sampermans’ first post with The Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels, Limited (HSH) was as Director of Food & Beverage at The Peninsula Bangkok between 2004 and 2007. As we chat in The Lobby, resplendent in lush greenery and flowers, with a young lady hand-making garlands of jasmine and assorted other tropical flora, the urban resort feel is already present, the idea being that guests feel a sense of transformation as soon as they enter the hotel. In his latest role as General Manager of The Peninsula Bangkok, which he took up in December 2016, Sampermans’ main focus over the past 18 months has been the implementation of a new ‘health and harmony’ concept, which underpins the hotel’s repositioning. This may on the surface sound like a relatively simple task, but in fact it has involved extensive cultural, medical, and even psychological research in order to get the concept exactly right, something that Sampermans is adamant and passionate about doing. Citing the bestselling book The Telomere Effect, co-authored by Dr. Elizabeth Blackburn, a joint 2009 Nobel Prize winner in Physiology Medicine, who discovered telomerase and telomeres' role in the aging process, and Dr. Elissa Epel, a health psychologist who has done original research into how specific lifestyle habits can protect telomeres in order to slow down disease and improve life, Sampermans has clearly been very diligent in his research.
While many factors contribute to aging and illness, Dr. Blackburn discovered a biological indicator called telomerase, the enzyme that replenishes telomeres, which protect our genetic makeup. She and other scientists have stated that certain changes that individuals can make to their daily habits can protect their telomeres and thus have an impact on the number of years that they remain healthy, active, and disease-free. For the somewhat less scientific amongst us, Sampermans breaks this down simply. “Basically there are four components that are core to our wellbeing, the ‘slowing down’ of aging, and prevention of illness: food, exercise, meditation, and sleep. So in terms of our hotel, our aim is to combine all these four factors properly so we can maximise the guest experience and provide an authentic and validated health and harmony offering.” In order to put his masterplan in place, Samperman’s has hired a new Spa Director, a fully qualified tennis coach, and professional Yoga, Pilates and Muay Thai instructors, as well as a Spa therapist with a Bachelor’s Degree in Thai Medicine. “With our Thai Medicine practitioner in place, we are looking towards eventually being able operate a Thai massage school whereby guests can actually become officially certified after participating in a course.” As part of its overall initiative, The Peninsula Bangkok offers at least two complimentary wellness-based activities every day, ranging from aquatics to sunrise yoga to meditation and more. These on-property activities are complemented by carefully curated activities off-property. During its 20th anniversary year, the hotel will offer a menu of 20 different types of experiences to cater for all ages, interests and tastes (see pages 50-85), presented Peninsulastyle, so that maximum comfort is ensured on top of the experiential element. “These experiences have been very meticulously thought out,” states Sampermans. “Many of these activities are not offered by regular tour operators and will in many cases take our guests way off the beaten track, but always with cold towels and water at the ready, as well as other conveniences that guests may request, as one would expect of The Peninsula.”
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Food and beverage is of course of paramount importance to any hotel operation, and in the case of The Peninsula Bangkok, Sampermans is ensuring that the hotel’s offering incorporates the health and harmony component of the overall strategy. “In addition to hiring a new Executive Chef [Dominique Martinez] and a new Chinese Cuisine Executive Chef [Ball Yau] (see pages 30-33), we have re-evaluated our food offering to include all the healthy options and dietary requirement situations. In our extensive breakfast buffet at the River Café & Terrace, you’ll see that everything is marked clearly with symbols – gluten-free, vegan, lactose-free, and so on; so all diets are catered for.” Our conversation moves on to the future and the current ongoing development in the Thonburi district of Bangkok on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river where The Peninsula is located. For many years, this area has been perceived by travellers as being on the ‘wrong side of the river’, due to intense traffic congestion and the fact that the Skytrain (BTS) stations were previously all located on the east side of the Chao Phraya. Things, however, are on the verge of a major shift. In the fourth quarter of 2018, a significant retail development will open, just a stone’s throw away from The Peninsula Bangkok. ICONSIAM is an all-in-one complex, located on 750,000 square metres of land on the west bank of Chao Phraya and consists of two world-class residential condominium buildings and two of the world’s most glamorous retail complexes, ICONSIAM and ICONLUXE.
The architecture of the two retail complexes is inspired by cultural values and beliefs tied to the Chao Phraya River, including the krathong and the baisri. The ICONSIAM building is a contemporary building that mimics the way a krathong is folded, blending traditional Thai design signatures with modern interpretations. ICONSIAM will also house seven sightseeing “wonders”, according to its website. The complex will deliver to locals and visitors River Park, an area that offers access to the river for activities, the ICONSIAM Heritage Museum showcasing artefacts from Thailand’s different eras as well as touring exhibitions, and world-class entertainment areas, including a state-of-the-art auditorium and cineplex. The shopping mall alone is predicting an average of at least 140,000 visitors a day, a number which will ultimately be boosted by the Gold Line, part of Bangkok's rapid transit system, the first phase of which is scheduled to open in 2019, and will connect Krung Thonburi BTS station with Prajadhipok Road in the Thonburi District. This development bodes well for The Peninsula Bangkok as Sampermans predicts it will lead to a substantial increase in foot traffic. “If we can differentiate substantially from others, people will choose us for the product that we offer, and I can promise you that we will do that really well. So after 20 years we won’t be on the wrong side of the river any more!”
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Destination DINING Redefined TEXT: ANN TSANG IMAGES: ANTONIO SABA
After two years of assisting The Peninsula Beijing to redefine destination dining in the Chinese capital, Chef Dominique Martinez returned to Thailand last year to take up a new challenge at The Peninsula Bangkok. Throughout his international career, he has perfected the art of treating the finest local produce with care and respect, and of blending new and trusted flavours. Guests and local residents can now experience Chef Dominique’s global culinar y inspirations paired with unmistakeable Thai influences.
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n August 2017, The Peninsula Bangkok welcomed Dominique Martinez as its new Executive Chef. Born and trained in France, Chef Dominique is responsible for leading the hotel’s talented culinary teams at its four exquisite restaurants, and its in-room dining and banquet operations. Chef Dominique was previously Executive Chef at The Peninsula Beijing, where he oversaw the operations of three restaurants and a team of 90 people during the hotel’s landmark transformation, which was completed in early 2017. Born in Agen in France, Chef Dominique developed a passion for cooking at an early age. As his career developed, his enduring love of fine cuisines and the desire to learn new culinary skills and incorporate new ingredients have taken him around the world. He has garnered a wealth of high-level experience at leading restaurants and five-star hotels in France, Germany, Switzerland, Australia, Luxemburg, Barbados, Thailand and China.
and harmony. We have carefully looked at the menus of each of our restaurants with a view to making them more family friendly and somewhat more relaxed for our guests. The first change we made was to our pool menu to make it more casual and easy for poolside dining. By the pool you don’t want to have the burden of too much cutlery or clutter – so we now offer an eating experience that is more laid back – something more typical of a resort experience with a healthy aspect. Many of our guests come here for a couple of days before moving on to other areas in the north or south of Thailand, so we wanted to help create a feeling of “you’re already on vacation”. TP: The River Café & Terrace is your busiest outlet, especially during breakfast time. Have you made any changes there? What can guests expect? DM: We regularly serve between 600 and 700 guests during our breakfast period. As you know, we have a very diverse and extensive buffet to cater for all tastes, as well as our live cooking stations for both Asian and Western dishes. It’s important to us that everything is of consistently high quality and prepared as freshly as possible. Whatever time guests choose to have breakfast, be it 6:00am or 9:00am, we want them to enjoy the same fresh experience.
The Peninsula: You have been at The Peninsula Bangkok for almost a year now as Executive Chef. What have been your main tasks since you arrived? Dominique Martinez: My main task has been to review our overall culinary offering in line with the hotel’s repositioning as a luxury urban resort, which is underpinned by the combination of health
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TP: There have also been some recent, exciting new developments at the hotel’s Cantonese restaurant Mei Jiang… DM: Yes, first of all we recruited a new Chinese Cuisine Executive Chef, Ball Yau, who has almost 25 years’ experience working at top Chinese restaurants and five-star hotels in Hong Kong, Macau and Mainland China. He has managed kitchens that have won prized Michelin stars, and he is also the holder of a coveted Golden Chef Award. It was announced recently that the Michelin Guide will launch its Thailand edition later this year, which is quite exciting for everyone, and of course we aspire to be a part of that. Chef Yau has created an incredible 16-course Cantonese dégustation menu as well as an excellent selection of new dishes for the a là carte menu, all of which have been extremely well received.
One example of this is the frequency that we prepare our baked goods; we turn out new batches of croissants and pastries every 45 minutes, so whatever time a guest arrives, the products will have come more or less straight from the oven. TP: The hotel has an exceptionally bountiful breakfast offering Is this related to the guest demographic or the fact that breakfast is the most important meal of the day? DM: It’s a combination of both. Breakfast is definitely the most important meal because it helps to keep our guests happy for the whole day. You don’t want to start your day with the wrong food, as it really does affect how your body functions for the rest of the day. What we offer is of course also related to the guest demographic – we have large numbers of Chinese, Korean and Japanese guests who come in waves at different times of the year, so we have more offerings to cater to those cultural tastes accordingly. The variety is also based on the fact that we have the space to create a very large set-up, both inside and outside. Guests who are here are on vacation tend to spend much more time on breakfast, whereas those who are here on business probably just want a 30-minute breakfast before they go off for their meetings.
TP: And then of course, there’s your signature Thai restaurant, Thiptara… DM: Our main objective with Thiptara is to offer authentic Thai cuisine and not a Westernised version of such, as we want to appeal to local Thai patrons as well as guests. With the upcoming opening of the luxury ICONSIAM mall next door, we expect a lot more foot traffic coming through the hotel, so we need to ensure we are offering the best possible choices, in line with what people expect from The Peninsula.
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TP: On the widely-discussed topic of sustainability and the environment, are there any specific areas that you are focusing on addressing? DM: Obviously this is an ongoing area of focus for us. One of the key topics for us is of course seeking the best possible alternatives to plastic straws – whether it be paper, bamboo or copper - we are looking at several options. The same applies to stirrers, and of course single-use plastic. Another area of constant focus for us is food waste management. We produce a waste management report every quarter, and yearon-year we are continuing to reduce our wastage, as well as our water consumption. TP: So each of the individual outlets have their own unique attractions. In terms of the banqueting department, weddings and special events are a significant part in the hotel’s business. What are your plans to stay on top the game in terms of sustaining that business given that there are a number of new luxury players in the hospitality industry in Bangkok? DM: We have the benefit of a 20-year history behind us, an incredible location next to the river, as well as a brand that has for long been associated with luxury and exceptional service. No-one can take that away from us, so we are confident that people will keep coming back, knowing that we will not only meet, but exceed their expectations.
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Left to right: Thithirat Chantharasamrit, Demi Chef Banquet Kitchen; Siriporn Bualoung, Jr. Sous Chef Thiptara Kitchen; Jurarat Benjapariwat, Demi Chef Mei Jiang Kitchen; Varut Khawsakul, Commis RC&T Kitchen; Chef Dominique Martinez, Executive Chef; Benjamaporn Krairat, Demi Chef Main Kitchen; Chef Alvaro Roa, Executive Sous Chef; Ornisha Tejagupta, Chef de Partie Pastry Kitchen; Kittipong Karnchananaratip, Sous Chef Butchery; Chef Ball Yau, Chinese Cuisine Executive Chef; Chef Nicolas Pelloie, Executive Pastry Chef; Somphot Jaisawat, Jr. Sous Chef RC&T Kitchen
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Rock AROUND The WOK 28
The Peninsula Bangkok recently introduced a unique 16-course Degustation Menu at its Cantonese restaurant Mei Jiang. Featuring dishes personally created by the hotel’s Chinese Cuisine Executive Chef Ball Yau, the menu is the first of its kind for a Chinese restaurant in Thailand. Each handcrafted dish is presented in a tasting portion, enabling diners to enjoy the expressive range and quality of Chef Yau’s Cantonese cooking.
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ver since his childhood in Hong Kong, as he curiously observed his mother preparing Cantonese double-boiled soups using fresh market vegetables and herbs, Ball Yau dreamed of becoming a chef, and avidly watched the TV show Mrs Fong’s Cooking Time to learn classic Cantonese preparation and techniques that later helped to define his professional career. Now at the helm of Mei Jiang, The Peninsula Bangkok’s fine dining Cantonese restaurant, Chef Yau’s Degustation Menu features culinary inspirations from his upbringing and his experiences working with Chinese master chefs in Hong Kong, Beijing, Macau and Shenzhen; and surprise elements from across Asia and around the world. Gourmands who were dazzled by his award-winning gastronomy in Hong Kong and other cities can now discover exquisite new creations for the first time, while diners unfamiliar with his culinary style will be delighted by the refined Cantonese f lavours and imaginative presentation. Signature highlights include Pumpkin with homemade preserved plum sauce and Stir-fried Phuket lobster with egg white, crab coral and green asparagus. Guests will also experience Braised M6 wagyu beef brisket rolls with turnip in beef soup; Sweet and sour crispy carabineros, blending fine Asian and Spanish ingredients; and Chef Yau’s own twist on a traditional Cantonese dessert of Pumpkin coconut cream with bird’s nest. While at the helm of stellar restaurant and hotel kitchens across major Chinese cities, Chef Yau received consistent acclaim for reimagining Cantonese f lavours, whilst simultaneously pioneering a balanced and elegant brand of cooking. He has never forgotten his childhood roots, however, and remains inspired to craft dining experiences for guests that remain faithful to the timeless Cantonese principles he learned from his mother, his grandmother and, of course, Mrs Fong. For each individual recipe on his menu, Chef Yau selects the freshest local and globally available ingredients. His approach to Cantonese cuisine focuses on vegetables, herbs, mushrooms and white meat, whilst minimising the use of sugar, oil, seasonings and red meat (often associated with Chinese cooking). By doing this, he respects the inherent flavours and textures of each key ingredient. Chef Yau’s attention to culinary detail is an unquestionable strength, and he has even devised a homemade recipe for the bean curd skin that he pairs with braised mushrooms and black truffle. As an alternative to the 16-course Degustation Menu, diners at Mei Jiang can select Chef Yau’s special dishes from the à la carte menu, alongside other Cantonese delights and Mei Jiang favourites, such as Peking duck, Deep-fried fillet of snow fish with homemade dried shrimp and chilli salt, and Clay pot fried prawns in port wine sauce. A special tea-pairing option is also offered.
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20 YEARS OF SERVICE
TEXT: ANN TSANG PORTRAITS: ANTONIO SABA
First Impressions Khun Chaiya has worked as a Page at The Peninsula Bangkok for the past two decades. Having grown up in a small village in Udon Thani province in northeastern Thailand, upon graduating from high school, he hopped on a train and travelled approximately 560 kilometres to the bright lights of the City of Angels, not quite knowing what his destiny might be‌ 32
KHUN CHAIYA, PAGE
The Peninsula: Tell us a little bit about your childhood and growing up. Khun Chaiya: I grew up in a very small village in Udon Thani province in the northeast of the country. My parents had a small farm, so each day after school I would help them with chores like feeding the animals and sometimes planting rice. I had a very simple upbringing. TP: When and how did you decide to come to Bangkok? KC: After I completed my high school education, myself and a group of friends just decided to jump on a train and travel to Bangkok to seek out employment opportunities in the city. We rented a room together and I managed to secure various internships with different types of companies, including a department store, during which time I learned a great deal, and I eventually got a full-time job at the Dusit Thani hotel (part of a Thai hospitality company). I still keep in touch with that same group of friends and some of them also work in other hotels. TP: How did you come to work for The Peninsula Bangkok? KC: Prior to the hotel opening, there was a widespread recruitment advertising campaign in the local press, so I decided to go to the recruitment day at the Convention Centre, as I already had some experience in the hotel industry. Then I came to look at the hotel, just out of curiosity, and I was amazed at how beautiful it looked. I consider myself very lucky to have been chosen to work here. TP: And what has kept you here for 20 years? KC: There are many things. Firstly, the hotel treats us like one big family. Then of course there are excellent benefits – healthcare, meals at the staff canteen, and various training opportunities. I have been able to improve my English and also lean basic Mandarin. Language ability is very important in terms of being able to communicate effectively with our guests. TP: What has been your most memorable moment working at The Peninsula for the last 20 years? KC: When Queen Sirikit visited the hotel for a special event soon after the hotel opened. I held open the main door for her and was lucky enough to be able to have my picture taken with her. I have kept the picture in my staff locker ever since; it is one of my most treasured memories‌
The Keys To Success Khun Narong Lapaporn and Khun Chaiya Suriyant have worked side-by-side in the front desk area of The Peninsula Bangkok since September 1998, two months before the hotel officially opened. Here they recall their memories of the past two decades.
KHUN NARONG, ASSISTANT CHIEF CONCIERGE KHUN CHAIYA, CONCIERGE OFFICER
TP: Obviously things have changed dramatically over the last 20 years, especially in terms of the use of technology in the workplace. How was it for you adapting to such rapid changes? KN: The constant implementation of new technology of course actually assists us in being able to get our jobs done more efficiently, which is extremely important these days, especially for business travellers. Fortunately we have the benefit of having the next generation alongside us, so we work together and help each otherwe use our experience to teach them, and they use technology to teach us.
The Peninsula: You both joined the hotel two months prior to its opening. How did you feel when you first walked in to work? Khun Narong: Obviously, we were both incredibly excited. All the counters were still covered in dust after the construction, so our first task was to roll up our sleeves and clean up, then we started to set up all of our software; basically everything from scratch. Khun Chaiya: It was like a totally new beginning, even though we had both worked together at another hotel on the other side of the river, and so we were quite familiar with the hospitality industry. But the grandness of this hotel took us into another realm. TP: What was the first challenge that you encountered? KN: 20 years ago, not many people knew about the hotel and all of our competitors claimed that we were “on the wrong side of the river”. So in order to spread the word, our management initiated a special introductory offer of US$88 per night, including breakfast and airport transfers and guests came flooding in, so much so that the hotel often became overbooked.
TP: Can you recall any particularly special moments you’ve had whilst working here? KN: The most interesting one for me was when an American tourist approached me to ask if I could possibly help him to locate a Thai friend that he hadn’t seen for almost 10 years. He only had his name and address, and this was at a time when social media didn’t exist, so I personally went to try to find him, which I did, and so then I arranged for them to meet in The Lobby after all that time. That moment brought tears of happiness for all concerned, including me!
KC: Yes, and look at us now 20 years later, we are still on this side of the river and as popular as ever! Today, we have part of the city’s Creative District almost in our backyard and this year will see the opening of Bangkok’s finest shopping mall and entertainment complex right next door, so no-one can claim now which is the wrong or right side of the river!
KC: The most special moment was when Travel & Leisure magazine announced that The Peninsula Bangkok was the Best Hotel in the World in 2004. Even our GM had no idea until he received a phone call from the head office in Hong Kong. TP: Do you see yourself ever leaving The Peninsula? Both: No, we love the Peninsula!
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The Art of Detail Earlier in life, Khun Romanee Samranthin wanted to become a teacher, due to her love of children and her desire to educate them in the best possible way. However, destiny led her into the hospitality industry, where today, after 35 years of being a housekeeper, she has come full circle, now helping to teach a team of 60 people how to maintain the exceptionally high standards of The Peninsula, and what she refers to as “the art of detail�. 36
KHUN ROMANEE, ASSISTANT HOUSEKEEPER
The Peninsula: Why were you not able to pursue your desire to become a teacher? Khun Romanee: Very simply because there weren’t many teaching jobs available when I graduated from college, so a friend suggested that I should look at the hospitality industry as an option. In those days (35 years ago), it wasn’t particularly important to have any experience, and being hired was more based on personality. Also, people working in an international hotel environment were quite highly respected, so I thought I would give it a try and got a job as a room attendant in the housekeeping department of the Dusit Thani hotel. I didn’t have much opportunity to speak English, but I gradually learned through brief interactions with overseas guests over the years. TP: After working for so long (15 years) with another hotel, what motivated you to move to The Peninsula? KR: Actually it was through the encouragement of my boss at the time. He said that he wanted to see me develop more and grow up by learning more about five-star luxury service. So I joined The Peninsula on September 21st, 1998 during the pre-opening period as a housekeeping co-ordinator. TP: What has attracted you to remain in the same department for so many years? KR: I just love cleaning (laughs), as it brings me a great deal of satisfaction. 35 years ago, cleaning products were quite basic, so we really had to use our skills rather than depend on fancy products to assist us with our job. Of course today, we still have to have skills, but they are more about using our tools properly and meeting the high expectations of 21st century guests. And now I am actually able to utilise my teaching skills to help train new staff how to maintain the standards that are expected of them. TP: Can you give us some fast facts about housekeeping at The Peninsula that most people may not know or think about? KR: Well, we have a team of 60 people in the department. Each room attendant cleans an average of 10 rooms per day. It takes approximately 45 minutes to fully complete an occupied room and 60 minutes for a checked out room. We launder all the bed linen every day, unless of course a guest specifies otherwise. It takes about eight minutes to make a bed Peninsula-style; we have a specific way of making beds, which is the same at all Peninsula properties. TP: Are you very critical when you stay at other (non-Peninsula) hotels on vacation? KR: I feel both sympathetic and empathetic towards my fellow housekeepers. I actually make the bed myself and state that the linen does not need to be changed on a daily basis. As a naturally tidy person, I can’t help but put everything in its right place before leaving the room!
Life on the River Khun Niwat Supasetthasit and Khun Prasert Kerdkum have an almost lifelong affiliation with water, and both have been traversing the Chao Phraya river for the past 20 years as boat captains for The Peninsula Bangkok. During this time, each of these gentlemen have made a total of 759,200 trips each from one side of the river to the other.
KHUN NIWAT, KHUN PRASERT, BOAT CAPTAINS
TP: How have you seen the Chao Phraya change over the last 30 years? KN: The river just seems too small now, as there is so much traffic. KP: Now all we can really see are high-rise buildings as both sides of the river have developed so much over the years. But we can still see our beautiful temples and other famous Thai landmarks. The river is such an important part of our city.
The Peninsula: You have worked together for the past 30 years on the Chao Phraya, and you seem to coincidentally have lived parallel lives… Khun Niwat: Yes, actually we lived in neighbouring Provinces, but we never met until we started working together at the Marriott Riverside resort 30 years ago. Our families both operated local barge businesses for the transportation of agricultural products. When I left school at the age of 13, I helped my parents with cleaning the boat and other tasks, and eventually learned to drive the boat. Khun Prasert: When I was young, I wanted to be a soldier, which I actually was for a short time, but my mother told me that I should make my living working on the water as she believed that that was my destiny.
TP: Have there ever been any accidents on your boats? KN: Never, as we are extremely careful about our guests’ safety and we pride ourselves in that. We are always alert and we have constant supplies of cold towels and water to keep our guests cool and hydrated. KP: We have however been in situations of saving other people and animals. I once saw a man jumping off a pier into the river and took immediate measures to save him. We have also rescued quite a number of dogs and birds from drowning.
TP: Khun Niwat, you were caught in a very strong typhoon in1989, which led to many offshore deaths on vessels in the Gulf of Thailand. KN: Yes, more than 50 boats sank, causing 833 deaths. I was on my family boat at the time, and it was an absolutely terrifying experience. I consider myself very fortunate to be alive today.
TP: Do you have any specific spiritual rituals that you practise before beginning your job each day? KN: Yes, as we are both Buddhist, we chant each day before getting onto the boat. KP: We both also wear necklaces which wear a number of specific Buddhist amulets that are specifically to protect us against accidents or bad luck. Each has its own specific powers.
TP: So how did you both come to work at The Peninsula Bangkok? KP: As mentioned earlier, we were both working at another hotel on the river, and when The Peninsula first opened they found it quite difficult to find the right professional boat captains, so the hotel approached us at the same time and persuaded us to fill out application forms. 15 days later, we were offered jobs so we decided to give it a shot, although our previous company really didn’t want us to resign.
TP: How many trips do you make back and forth from The Peninsula pier each day? KN: On average, each of our three boats makes 104 crossings per day – so 37,960 trips per year. If you really calculate, each of us has made 759,200 crossings over the last 20 years at The Peninsula alone…
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Service with a Smile 40
KHUN NOK, ASSISTANT MANAGER – RIVER CAFÉ & TERRACE
The Peninsula: As a child, what did you dream of becoming when you grew up? Khun Nok: When I was very young, I wanted to be a f light attendant, and my dream was to visit Switzerland, so I thought that would be the easiest way to do it. After I graduated, I got my first job as a secretary in a small computer company, but I found that quite boring as I didn’t have much interaction with people. So I started looking for a position in the hospitality industry, and was hired as a bartender at another hotel. During that time, a guest approached me to go and work in New Zealand, but my mother was against it, so I didn’t end up going. TP: So how did you come to work at The Peninsula? KN: I actually applied for positions at four different luxury hotels and was interviewed by all of them, and I chose The Peninsula because it was brand new and seemed as if it might be an exciting place to work. They didn’t have any bartender positions, so they offered me a job as a server. I tried it and really enjoyed it, especially as I am very interested in food and I enjoy cooking at home. The job allowed me to learn new things, and I have been here ever since. TP: Are you still learning new things? KN: Yes, as I am fortunate to be able to travel and stay in other Peninsula hotels around the world, I have visited The Peninsula properties in Hong Kong and New York. I went to all of the restaurants in these hotels, as I was curious to explore and to observe the type of service, as well as the way they set up the venues for different times of the day. I like to see how other cultures operate and also be able to share the art of Thai hospitality.
Khun Punika Chantavasinkul, aka Khun Nok, is Assistant Manager at The Peninsula Bangkok’s River Café & Terrace (previously named ‘Cilantro’) where she has passionately served guests by the riverside for the past two decades. The Peninsula magazine discovers what has kept her there for all of these years.
TP: What do you consider to be most important in your job? KN: Other than to always be polite and efficient, it’s important to be able to remember guests – especially frequent ones – of which there are many. I know their food and beverage preferences, what time they prefer to eat, which tables are their favourite…I recall when one of our regular guests broke her leg and so wasn’t able to come to the restaurant, so I brought her favourite items from the buffet to her room and she was both surprised and delighted. TP: Apparently, there is a particular couple that holds you very close to their hearts… KN: Yes. One of our frequent guests came to The Peninsula Bangkok to recover after an operation, and he and his wife actually invited me to go and stay with them in London in 2015, where they truly treated me like royalty! I was driven around in a Rolls-Royce, given a private ride on the London Eye, and ate at all the best restaurants. The couple really treated me as if I was their daughter – it was an incredible experience and one that I will never ever forget…
KHUN CHOKE, COMMUNICATION CENTRE MANAGER
TP: What did you think about doing as a youngster? Khun Choke: You probably won’t believe this, but when I was at school, I was the lead singer in a rock band. We sang mainly Thai songs and some cover versions of English songs, and we performed at special events, but I soon realised that I would never be able to really make any money as a singer, so my cousin suggested that I should consider working at a hotel. My first job was as a bus boy at the Narai hotel on Silom Road. TP: How did you go from being a bus boy to a telephone operator? KC: I worked as a bus boy for four years and then I was offered a position at the front desk as an immigration clerk, which involved verifying guests’ passports when they checked in. Although this position helped me to learn English, I was very nervous dealing with people face-to-face. So I then applied for a job as a telephone operator at The Regent hotel and felt much more comfortable just talking to people over the phone. TP: You have now been doing this for 25 years. Do you ever change your tone when answering the phone? KC: Actually no, I have one voice and one tone, which is actually a skill, as it leads to instant voice recognition. I like to call it the “smile tone”, as I want to answer with a smile, even though people can’t see me (laughs)! Perhaps that’s why I have earned my name as “the voice of The Peninsula”… TP: The last two decades or so have witnessed the transformation from analogue to digital, and different technology applications. How was it for you adapting to such a transition? KC: I taught myself as much as I could by reading books on the subject, and as I became more familiar with technology, I was amazed at how more efficiently things could be done. TP: You are now the Communication Centre Manager, what does this entail? KC: I manage nine operators, two per shift, with three shifts per day. During office hours we receive between 800 and 1,000 calls per day, so it is important to make sure that the work flow is smooth and that all calls are attended to as quickly as possible. These days, time is a luxury, and we need to be responsive to that. TP: What have been some highlights for you working at The Peninsula? KC: Firstly I have been able to give my daughter a good education through this job. Secondly, as the hotel supports staff who wish to pursue online studies, I attained a Bachelor’s Degree in Liberal Arts from the Open University. TP: What do you do in your spare time? KC: Believe it or not, I participate in long-distance running events. I have completed two full marathons in Thailand and my dream is to be able to run in the Tokyo Marathon – I have tried to enter twice through the lottery system, and I won’t give up until the day I can’t run any more!
The Voice of The Peninsula Khun Sirichoke Singsangvien has been the “voice of The Peninsula Bangkok� since October 26th, 1998. For almost 20 years, deep within the hotel, he has been answering the telephone at the main switchboard, directing between 800 to 1,000 calls per day left, right and centre. The Peninsula magazine meets the mystery man behind the voice. 43
Reaching for the Stars Khun Phatcharadanai Lormthong joined The Peninsula Bangkok in October 1998, one month before the hotel opened. Having previously worked at the front desk of the Imperial Queen’s Park hotel in Sukhumvit, his first position at The Peninsula took him on quite a different journey. 44
KHUN PHATCHARADANAI, BELL SUPERVISOR
The Peninsula: Had you heard of The Peninsula brand when you first applied or a job? Khun Phatcharadanai: I knew about Peninsula hotels in other cities, but not in Bangkok. I saw a picture of it in a hotel directory and was attracted by how beautiful and green it was…it looked much more attractive than other hotels in town. TP: You applied for a position at the front desk but did not succeed in your application. What happened after that? KP: I was disappointed that I didn’t get the job, but the Human Resources department called me sometime later and offered me a position as Supervisor of the staff canteen, even though that wasn’t my area of expertise. But I really wanted to work at The Peninsula so I accepted the offer. It was quite challenging dealing with tired staff coming off their shifts and trying to cater to everyone’s moods and needs, but I did the job for a year or so and got to know everyone. TP: But you still persisted with your wish to work in the front office? KP: Yes, I wanted to work as a bellman, but was told that in order to attain that position, I had to start as a pageboy. Obviously this was a lower position, but I did it for 18 months. 20 years ago, there was actually quite a lot of competition to secure one of the 13 page positions, as pages are representative of the brand – almost like hotel ambassadors. I felt a great sense of pride wearing the uniform. TP: So you were very determined… KP: Yes, because I knows that that I had the ability to do much more, and I wanted to perform to the very best of my ability and show people that I could grow with this hotel. My perseverance paid off as I am now the Bell Supervisor overseeing a team of 50 staff – this includes the door staff, the pages, the bell desk and the boat team. TP: Why is The Peninsula so special to you? KP: It feels like being part of a real family. Some of my team have also been here for 20 years, so we are growing old together. I want to be a role model for the younger members of the team to become more successful and move forward for the next 20 years. TP: What are the three most important qualities necessary when doing your job? KP: To be thoughtful; to be able to put yourself in guests’ shoes; and also to deliver your promises on time. TP: Do you have any particularly special memories of the past 20 years working at the hotel? KP: Before I was promoted to Bell Supervisor, my boss actually preferred my colleague over me, but I truly believed that I was capable of doing the job better, so I was very assertive and challenged him, saying, “If you don’t trust me, go and ask the rest of the team who actually deserves this promotion”, and I subsequently got the job. TP: Do you still have any aspirations for the future? KP: Yes I would like to still rise to a higher position here at The Peninsula Bangkok, so I will just keep reaching for the stars.
High Maintenance Assistant Housekeeper at The Peninsula Bangkok, Khun Surin Phonchangrid, grew up with a dream of working as a government official, but his career took him on a very different path.
KHUN SURIN, ASSISTANT HOUSEKEEPER
The Peninsula: Did you have any previous experience in the hospitality industry before coming to work at The Peninsula Bangkok? Khun Surin: When I was at school, I thought the best job I could get was one with the government, but there was a great deal of competition to enter into the civil service, so I figured another way that I could serve people was through the hospitality industry, so I applied for a position as a butler at the Dusit Thani hotel.
for the opening. It was a very exciting time and I immediately felt a strong sense of responsibility. TP: Have there been any particularly memorable moments for you over the past 20 years of working at The Peninsula? KS: There have been many special and indeed challenging moments. Probably the biggest challenge for me was when a guest suffered from a seizure whilst taking a bath and I happened to be checking the rooms at that time. As no-one answered the door, I went in and found the guest in a state of great distress, so I called security and emergency services to take him to the hospital immediately. I was relieved when I heard that he had recovered. On a lighter note, during the earlier years, I had the honour to be able to look after the needs of the company’s Chairman, Sir Michael Kadoorie. As he is so busy, staff have to be responsive in dealing with his requirements in a punctual manner. I felt a real sense of pride when he thanked me for my level of service.
TP: How did you come to work at The Peninsula? KS: Unfortunately I missed the official recruitment day when thousands of people went to the Convention Centre to fill out application forms, as this new hotel had already become the talk of the hospitality industry around town. I was curious as to what this new five-star luxury hotel looked like, so I decided to go and take a look from the outside. My first impression was that it was very grand looking and as it was surrounded by greenery and flowers, it appeared very different to other hotels around town, so I decided to go inside and enquire about potential job opportunities as I thought it would be an excellent experience to be part of an opening team. I managed to get an interview and was then hired as a floor supervisor in the housekeeping department.
TP: You have now reached the position of Housekeeping Supervisor. What does your daily routine consist of? KS: The day begins with a briefing when each member of the team is given his or her assignments for the day. Then I oversee the inspection of rooms allocated to VIP guests to ensure that everything is exactly how it should be. I also inspect rooms that have been reported to be out-of-order and make arrangements with the concerned departments to have them put back into operation.
TP: You joined one month before the hotel opened. What were your first tasks? KS: I first had to familiarise myself with The Peninsula culture and the company’s expectations to deliver an extremely high level of service, and to always strive for perfection. So one of my first tasks was to meticulously go through every room and check for any defects – to make sure no damage had been caused during construction. Any flaws had to immediately be rectified in time
TP: What do you want to do when you retire? KS: I want to live in the countryside, operate a small farm and breathe fresh air…
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THE Ultimate 20 Experiences IMAGES: ANTONIO SABA
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he Peninsula 20 Experiences are designed to give guests deeply immersive, exclusive, and authentic adventures in Bangkok. Think crowded backstreets, 90 year-old Chinese cafés, and temples without tourists – The Peninsula Bangkok aims to take its guests off the beaten track. With something for every budget, interest and fitness level, an experience may be as simple as the complimentary 7:40 am alms-giving to local monks offered daily at no cost, or an eight-hour 20 kilometre biking experience on the amazing back streets of Bangkok, offering a unique exploration of the unseen. All these adventures are hosted by professional English-speaking guides with many years of experience in showing visitors the best sights, sounds and tastes of the city. Guests can expect to be both entertained and educated. All experiences are private and as such, participants remain in control of their day – with the option to spend as little or as much time anywhere along the way that may be of special interest. Guests will enjoy the extra touches that make moving around in the heat enjoyable - cold towels and drinks appearing magically along the way, refreshing street food snacks, top-quality mountain bikes for cycling, air-conditioned mini vans waiting where needed and the excitement of Bangkok’s long-tail boats and tuk-tuks are incorporated for authentic transportation. As The Peninsula Bangkok celebrates 20 years of riverside magic, we hope you will celebrate with us through any of these 20 programmes.
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THAI WELLNESS JOURNEY
Traditional Thai massage should not be missed when visiting Thailand. While the basic offerings can be found anywhere, therapists at The Peninsula Bangkok are proudly trained in the most authentic version: Royal Thai Massage. A skillful therapist will take guests on a longtail boat to the world-renowned Wat Pho, which is known for its Reclining Buddha and was the first Thai massage school in the history of the Kingdom. At Wat Pho, participants will meet with a monk who is an expert in traditional Thai healing and will offer an exclusive educational tour at the Pavilion of Wisdom of traditional Thai healing therapy. On the wall of this pavilion are engravings that constitute the “medical book”, showing the energy lines and pressure points in the body according to the belief of ancestors. It shows how the Thais have learned about wellness and health over the centuries. After being inspired by the visit to Wat Pho, guests will then return to the hotel for a herb appreciation class followed by a Thai cooking class using indigenous herbs and spices to enhance the healing therapy experiences. After lunch, a therapist will present various herbs used for Thai herbal poultices and teach participants how to make their own. The journey ends at The Peninsula Spa with the hotel’s signature, 2.5 hour Royal Thai Massage with herbal compress. Why it’s cool: • An exclusive tour of the Pavilion of Wisdom of traditional Thai healing therapy • Completely personalised treatment Who should go? • Anyone wishing to discover the healing power of Thai herbs • Those who love massage and Thai healing therapy • Anyone wishing to add to their cooking repertoire
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HEALTH AND HARMONY
This unforgettable meditative experience begins at 5:50 am as guests depart from the hotel by boat for a leisurely 10-minute river journey (weather permitting) to the Gong Wu Chinese Shrine. The transcendent beauty of the Bangkok sunrise is embraced with an exhilarating yoga session led by the hotel’s yoga instructor overlooking the majestic Chao Phraya River. Be guided through a structured sequence of Hatha and Vinyasa poses that are tailored for yoga practitioners of all skill levels. Each stretching and breathing technique and Namaste pose towards the rising sun helps improve physical flexibility, boost blood circulation and ease tension throughout the body as dawn breaks. Having rebalanced the chakras for 60 minutes, it’s time to replenish and re-energise with a vitamin-packed health drink blending freshly squeezed carrot, red apple, celery and chia. After reflecting at the Gong Wu Shrine, a short walk brings guests to the adjacent tree-filled Princess Mother Memorial Park to cleanse their lungs and commune with nature. Opened in 1997 by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej in remembrance of his mother Srinagarindra,, the park features resplendent tropical gardens perfect for taking in fresh air and enjoying the tranquil surroundings. Guests can also visit a reproduction of the Royal mother’s childhood home and two halls exhibiting rare memorabilia of the Princess and the Royal Family. Why it’s cool: • Pay respect to the Gong Wu god, who represents victory and courage Who should go? • Tailored for all skill levels from novice to advanced, this is the perfect start to the day for anyone wanting to feel energised
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MUAY THAI
Muay Thai or Thai boxing is the official combat sport of Thailand. It was introduced to the world through Hollywood’s action movies and fitness crazes, but the true martial art is an ancient tradition that combines physical prowess with religious beliefs. Originally used by warriors in hand-to-hand combat, Muay Thai was officially introduced into the military training programme by King Nareusan in 1560 AD. Muay Thai went on to become a sport in which the opponents fought in front of spectators who went to watch for entertainment. These contests gradually became an integral part of local festivals and celebrations, especially those held at temples. Eventually, the previously bare-fisted fighters started wearing lengths of hemp rope around their hands and forearms. This type of match was called muay khat chueak. Muay Thai is variously referred to as the ‘Art of Eight Limbs’ or the ‘Science of Eight Limbs’ because it makes use of punches, kicks, elbow and knee strikes, thus using eight points of contact, as opposed to two points (fists) in boxing and four points (hands and feet) used in other more regulated combat sports, such as kickboxing and karate. Mixing martial arts with traditional Thai healing therapy is another way to discover the diversity of Thai culture. The Muay Thai Kickboxing and Traditional Thai Massage experience begins with a private kickboxing class, and is the perfect bonding activity for family members and friends aged 18 years and above. A certified trainer teaches techniques on the terrace at Thiptara, and guests can practice their striking and self-defense skills amidst the hotel’s tropical gardens overlooking the Chao Phraya River. After an energetic workout, participants can reflect and rejuvenate in The Peninsula Spa’s whirlpool, sauna and steam rooms before enjoying a 90-minute traditional Thai Massage. Why it’s cool: • Participants learn outside, in private, by the riverside, shaded by the hotel’s sacred Banyan tree • The training is tailored to be as challenging as you like, from moderate to high intensity • Guests leave with their own pair of authentic Muay Thai shorts as a memento of their session and to wear with pride back home Who should go? • Those interested in learning the fundamentals of Muay Thai • Anyone wanting a really good cardio workout - or wanting to work off some of that great Thai food they’ve been indulging in! • Anyone keen to be challenged by attempting something new
GOLF FOR HIGH FLYERS
At the 2016 Asian Golf Awards Ceremony the Thai Country Club was awarded as the Best Managed Golf Club in Asia Pacific, Best Food and Beverage Experience in Asia Pacific, Best Food & Beverage Manager of The Year, and First Runner Up for Best Locker Room (Male & Female) in Asia Pacific. Where better to enjoy an exclusive round of 18-hole golf on this award-winning course with an afternoon tee-off time when in Bangkok? Guests depart by limousine from The Peninsula Bangkok to the Thai Country Club, and upon arrival, a challenging yet fun 18-hole round of golf awaits while caddies serve as personal butlers, ensuring that refreshments and cold towels are on hand at all times. Upon completion of the 18-hole game, participants can celebrate on the balcony of the club house with their favourite cocktail or drink before heading back to The Peninsula Bangkok by helicopter, allowing spectacular views as the sun sets over the City of Angels. Why it’s cool: • This is the ultimate luxury golf holiday experience • Access to the Thai Country Club is normally reserved for members only Who should go? • Keen golfers who want to travel in style
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BANGKOK BACKSTREETS BY BIKE
This city cycling adventure covers a lot of ground utilising the maze of small streets and hidden pathways to avoid much of the hustle and bustle of the modern city of Bangkok while discovering cool riverside communities and landmarks. Participants cycle upriver through the European heritage neighbourhood and old markets to Rattanakosin Island, skirting Chinatown, the Grand Palace and Wat Pho along the way, before crossing the river by local ferry and returning downriver through the small alleys on the Thonburi side of the city which was the capital of Siam prior to Bangkok. Some of the city’s oldest settlements are scattered along the riverside and guests can visit many hidden historical sites such as Kudee Chin, an area famous for its neo-classical Santa Cruz church boasting a dome-shaped bell tower and exquisite stained glass windows, and known for a Portuguese baked pastry called kudee chin cake. In the same area, participants will see the ancient Chinese architecture of the Kian Un Keng Shrine, built during the King Taksin dynasty in the Thonburi era between 1767 and 1782. The journey comes to an end at Lhong 1919 where a longtail boat transports guests back to the hotel. Lhong 1919 was formerly a group of old warehouses and a Chinese shrine dating back to King Rama IV (1851-1868) which has now been re-developed as a coworking space, eateries and art and design shops spotlighting the work of young artists. Why it’s cool: • Get deep into hidden neighbourhoods which most visitors never find • Eco-friendly transport and a chance to support local businesses directly • A refreshing, breezy way to see Bangkok’s top sites and unseen cool spots that are not listed on tourist maps Who should go? • Those interested in off-the-beaten-path adventures • Those with limited time to explore Bangkok and wish to see as much as possible in a day
THE GATEWAY TO BANGKOK The Old Customs House never fails to stun visitors with its stately façade and Palladian architecture. During the Age of Sail, when international trade and naval warfare were dominated by sailing ships, navigable waterways were the veins of cities. In the late 19th Century, as Siam moved from a monopolised economy to one of free trade, King Rama V (also known as King Chulalongkorn) commissioned the construction of a customs house on the Chao Phraya riverfront in historic Bangrak to levy taxes on traders entering and exiting the country. Its function saw it become the gateway to Bangkok, and with such an important role, it is no wonder it was designed to stun its viewers. Now referred to as the Old Customs House, this structure in the Creative District was designed by an Italian architect Joachim Grassi in the late 1880s, towards the turn of the century when Western influence on public buildings was quite prevalent. The Old Customs House grand façade and front door face the river, and its Palladian architecture is easily discernable from the top triangular pediment embedded with a clock, its windows with arched transoms, and its strong theme of symmetry. Unfortunately, the Old Customs House only had a few decades of life before shuttering its doors. The customs office moved to Khlong Toei in 1949, and since then, the building has remained empty. Today, tourists and locals alike can visit the Old Customs House to catch a glimpse of its former glory. Though its yellow paint is peeling, its wooden floorboards and shutters are rotting, and some roof sections are collapsing, visitors can still appreciate its beauty at first sight, so much so that the building has become a favourite setting for photo and movie shoots, its most notable cameo being in Wong Kar-Wai’s most acclaimed film, In the Mood for Love. 37 Charoen Krung Road, Khwaeng Bang Rak, Bangkok
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REFLECTIONS OF CHINA The land in Chinatown is mostly owned by old prominent Thai-Chinese families. Land prices in Chinatown have always been one of the most expensive in Bangkok and Thailand due to limited land, and its desirable location by the river. Sou Heng Tai house in the Talad Noi community is 167 years old and was built by an ancestor of the Sou family using wood and concrete. It is one of the few ancient Chinese family houses remaining in Bangkok today, and it belongs to a Thai-Chinese family that has been on the receiving end of numerous offers from potential buyers, yet they refuse to sell. The walls at the entrance are covered with striking paintings, which upon closer inspection, are actually three-dimensional in composition, as the heads of the figures stand out from the bodies. Phusak Posayajinda, an eighth generation member of the Sou family, lives here today with his wife, five-year-old son and his mother, and to keep the old house in shape, he has to shoulder monthly costs of approximately 150,000 Baht. Believe it or not, behind this magnificent doorway lies a courtyard, which houses a pool for diving training!
SEEKING NEW LIFE Near the Sou Heng Tai house, a few ancient fig trees continue to grow on the side of the street, their roots deeply embedded into the ground beneath them. These are actually related to the same species of Bodhi tree that Buddha is known to have reached his state of enlightenment under, and as such they are considered holy. The trees have strips of coloured cloth wrapped around them in order to be protected from being cut down. The trees also represent the core of the re-use businesses in Chinatown. Old machines, such as this disused car, are placed under the trees in the hope that they might be miraculously brought back to working order, and should that not happen, the parts are recycled by the local businesses for further use.
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CUPPA JOE? The 90 year-old Eiah-Sae on Thanon Phat Sai, off Thanon Yaowarat, is very possibly the last traditional coffee shop in Bangkok. Patronised mainly by older Chiu Chow Chinese men, its Chinese name literally translates as “fortune incoming”. A legendary family-run business, it is locally famous for its coffee beans, and its old style, authentic “cafe Boran”, which is brewed in a sock-like filter with boiling water, and is dark, strong and served with sweet condensed milk. Since 1927, this establishment has been serving people from all walks of life – old gentlemen just passing the time of day smoking and reading the newspaper, Chinese businessmen, housewives, and the occasional adventurous tourist. Eiah-Sae’s food offerings are somewhat limited to typical Hainanese-style snacks: thicklysliced, toasted white bread, with butter and a generous layer of condensed milk or egg-jam spread, egg custard on toast, or just simple soft-boiled eggs…A visit here is really much more about the atmosphere and a place that seems to have stood still in time. 103-105 Thanon Phat Sai Samphanthawong Bangkok 10100 Tel: 02 221 0549 Opening hours: 4:00am-9.30pm
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THE HISTORIC PORTUGUESE DISTRICT TEXT: CUSHLA GEARY-SAYETTAT
Known locally as part of Kudichin area, this quiet treasure is situated on the western bank of the churning Chao Phraya river nestled neatly between Santa Cruz, the oldest Catholic church in Bangkok, and the majestically slanting 19th century 'gingerbread' teak mansion on its furthest boundary. Surprisingly, there are not hordes of tourists yet in this sleepy gracious haven. Santa Cruz is well worth a morning or early evening visit when it's open for Mass. Its colourful, vast and barrel vaulted magnificence is redolent of the Goan Portuguese churches meticulously cared for, peace rules, and tropical flowers dazzle from the open windows. Constructed in 1770, Santa Cruz was partially rebuilt due to a fire around 1883, then extended and embellished by an Italian architect, Mario Tamagno, whose Tuscan touch adds to its somnolent elegance. The best point of entry into the Portuguese quarter is from the right side of Santa Cruz facing away from the river. Meandering around this charming myriad of tiny interconnected sois is like stepping into a time warp. The Eurasian inhabitants can trace their ancestral roots back to when King Taksin vanquished the Burmese in Ayutthaya in 1767. King Taksin then created the Thonburi Kingdom downriver on the western banks of the Chao Phraya in 1768. Prior to Ayutthaya's sacking, the Portuguese were the first Westerners to become friends with Siam; shipbuilders, merchants and Catholic priests had been allowed to ply their trades amicably in Ayuttaya from the 1500s. King Taksin also had Portuguese soldiers among his personal guard. Over 3,000 Portuguese were resident in Ayutthaya in the 1760s and many followed the Siamese to Thonburi. The Portuguese settlers were given land south of the new palace in 1769 by King Taksin to build their church and community. This fascinating history is beautifully curated in the Baan Kudichin Museum, a two-storey converted period teak house with an excellent viewing deck added to the second floor. The regal and proud owner/curator of Portugeuse-Thai descent, Khun Navinee Pongthai, regales enthusiastically that the heritage of their
community had to be preserved. Dramatic oil paintings, historical documents, antique maps and armoury with detailed captions are displayed on the first floor. The second floor houses a mise-en -scène of 19th and 20th century life: a period furnished bedroom, a mini chapel/temple, a dining table laden with labelled typical dishes, and a host of family memorabilia dating back centuries. At ground level, a breezy cafÊ serves a bevy of beverages, traditional cakes and a selection of rather odd mains of which the chicken and macaroni is superb. Vintage armchairs and a reading space in an immaculate flowering garden completes this delightfully unexpected museum. Turning right and down a tiny soi back towards the river is the Thanusingha Bakery House, the first bakery in Thailand. For 200 years the family has produced the original Portuguese cupcake called khanom farang kuti jin. Delicious with strong black coffee, this simple delicacy is faithfully produced from three ingredients: duck eggs, sugar, and originally wheat flour from India. A quaint and cosy sloping tearoom is attached to the bakery. Another must-see is the 'gingerbread' house, a teak-wood early 19th century mansion built by a wealthy British merchant perched in a spectacularly unkempt garden. Looking rather sinister and quite probably haunted, this dilapidated water front abode features remarkable fret work and ornamentation, albeit disintegrating due to neglect. Khun Pongthai actually remembers playing there as a child when the grand old villa was still painted blue and marvelling at the exquisite splendour inside. The fate of this fabulous relic is unclear as it is caught up in a myriad of ownership squabbles. The backside view of its intricate woodwork can be seen by walking towards Santa Cruz from the soi in front of the bakery. The most striking features of this community are the inhabitants faces; Thai and yet not, the sound of church bells and children's laughter echoing through the pristinely kept sois, wandering past doorways where friendly occupants leisurely smile and go about their community lives, flowers cascading from trimmed vines, crooked signposts indicating the tiny sois - undeniably an enchanting area to visit.
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TAK BART
According to disciplines set by Lord Buddha over 2,500 years ago, monks are not allowed to buy food or store food overnight; a practice aligned to living without personal desire. For this reason, monks walk through local areas each morning to receive alms and food offered by kind people. For Buddhist Thais, this morning ritual demonstrates the act of unconditional sharing. The belief is that this act of giving will lead to people having a good life in their next incarnation. The Peninsula Bangkok provides its guests with all the food necessary to make a monk offering each morning. At 7:40 am, guests are invited to assemble at the hotel's Spirit House on the arrivals drive, where the offerings are provided. Before placing the offerings into the monks' bowls, guests are reminded to think about the people with whom they would like their blessing to be shared. Why it’s cool: • It’s a first-hand cultural immersion • Photos are allowed for some great social media moments Who should go? • Anyone wanting to enjoy a simple moment with the monks on the tropical grounds of The Peninsula Bangkok • People of all ages who only have 15 minutes or so to spare in their busy day and are seeking an authentic Thai experience
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Image: Courtesy of The Peninsula Bangkok
BUDDHA BLESSINGS
Participate in a very special ritual at one of Thailand’s most famous temples, Wat Arun. Get up close and observe the temple’s monks performing their morning prayer chanting in Pali. Morning prayers are an essential part of Buddhist practice, providing Theravada Buddhists with a way of both clearing their negative acts of the past and developing enlightenment. After this spiritual observance, participants will be invited into a private chamber usually off limits to visitors for a private ceremonial offering to the monks, receiving a personal blessing in return. Why it’s cool: • Take in the spiritual calmness of one of Thailand’s greatest temples • Feel like a VIP being extended a glimpse of the private areas of Wat Arun • Exclusive access to the monks • Receive a personal blessing Who should go? • Those interested in Eastern culture and architecture • The spiritually curious • Lovers of traditional Thai architecture and art
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BANGKOK TEMPLES
With over 95% of Thais being Buddhist, there are over 40,000 temples in the country and Bangkok is home to some of the most impressive ones. Guests can discover the landmark temples that forged a nation and which are immortalised on Thai coins and banknotes. The journey begins on a riverboat from the hotel’s pier to Rattanakosin Island, the historic heart of Bangkok, which houses the Grand Palace and some of the city’s oldest and most important Buddhist temples. Participants will visit the key sites and also several of the first-class Royal temples on foot and by tuk-tuk. A climb of the Golden Mount will be rewarded with spectacular views of the city before stopping off at the Marble Temple. On the return trip down the river, the boat will stop off at Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn, one of Bangkok’s most famous landmarks. Why it’s cool: • It’s an opportunity to see some of the most dazzling and beautiful structures in the world - these are the grandest temples in Thailand, remarkable for both their history and aesthetics • Itineraries are planned at the best times to visit to avoid crowds or witness the perfect light • The host knows about hidden details most other visitors pass by, and unique tidbits of history that add significant value to the day’s experience • A great way to experience the most photogenic sites in the city Who should go? • Those seeking an in-depth look into Thai history, culture and Buddhism • Those who want to experience authentic Buddhist Bangkok
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Image: Courtesy of The Peninsula Bangkok
MARKETS, MANGROVES, MONKEYS AND MUD SKIING
After an early breakfast, participants will head west from Bangkok to visit various interesting places with local touches in Samut Songkhram Province, stopping first at the Mae Klong Railway Market. This is a popular fresh market selling fruit, vegetables and local produce, with food stalls located next to the railway line. As a train approaches, vendors will close their parasols and remove all their goods at high speed. Once the train passes, the vendors bring the goods back to their spot and re-open the parasols. This parasol ‘closing ceremony’ happens eight times a day based on the daily train schedule. After the fun and excitement at the railway market, participants will head to Tha Kha floating market. This market retains a distinctive Thai charm seldom found at the more famous floating markets closer to Bangkok. Guests board a wooden paddle boat and cruise through the vendors trading with each other and hawking goods to locals and visitors along the canal’s edge. After a delicious local lunch, participants will head to the coast for mangrove planting, monkey spotting and mud skiing. Why it’s cool: • It’s fun planting mangroves and watching the to-and-fro of local fishermen • Mud skiing in the warm waters of Thailand behind a longtail boat is a unique activity Who should go? • Those wishing to experience authentic Thai markets • Those interested in environmental conservation • Those who want to see monkeys (note: please don’t feed them!)
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BAAN BU
From the hotel pier, participants will take an iconic longtail boat up the river to get to the unique neighbourhood of Baan Bu in Bangkok Noi. Walk straight into a Bronze Age workshop, a ramshackle structure with sunlight filtering through holes in the roof, creating beams of light through the smoky air. Workers in protective balaclavas hammer away over blazing fires, using skills passed on through generations to create stunning handmade bronze bowls. This family-run cottage industry has always used the same techniques, and the bowls they produce have changed little since the original craftsmen first melted copper, tin and nickel to produce bronze ingots which were pounded into traditional decorative bowls for King Rama III in the early 1800s. Make a day of it by visiting nearby Wat Suwannaram and the Thonburi Railway Depot, just a short boat ride from the Peninsula pier. Why it’s cool: • Totally off the beaten track, escape into time and into an ancient community • One of the last remaining hand-hammered bronze workshops in the region • You get to take a walk through narrow alleyways in a traditional Thai riverside village • You’ll see murals painted by Siam’s top artisans in the early 1820s depicting the first foreigners arriving in the Kingdom Who should go? • Those who appreciate historical art and a glimpse into a vintage mercantile factory • People who have been to Bangkok before and are looking for a new experience • Emerging street and cultural photographers • History enthusiasts, cultural anthropologists and those wishing to avoid the mainstream • Those looking for a unique and valuable memento from Thailand
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BANGKOK BLOSSOMS
Discover Bangkok’s famous flower market, known locally as Pak Khlong Talat (market at the mouth of the canal). This location has been a market in one form or another since Bangkok was established in 1782. However, over the last 60 years, it has been the city’s most prominent flower trading centre. Open 24 hours a day, it is busiest in the early morning when the delivery trucks arrive from the provinces. There are not just flowers to be found here; guests can also discover galangal, a type of ginger that gives the famous Thai soup tom kha gai its unique flavour. The expansive herb, spice and dried goods market is reached by a short trip in a longtail boat. Why it’s cool: • You can learn about the cultural and spiritual significance of Thai flowers • This is a historical Bangkok site • Guests can learn how to make their own garland and take it back home Who should go? • Those who are interested in shopping with a local flavour • Families with children who want to engage in hands-on creative activities
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Image: William Furniss
BIKES, BOATS AND BEER
Starting from the eccentric temple of Wat Tha Kian, participants will cycle along the original course of the Chao Phraya River before a canal shortcut was dug, abandoning an area left behind in time. Discover old wooden homes, riverside markets and Ayutthaya-era temples. On rejoining the main river, a small river boat will cruise upriver to Koh Kret, an island that is home to the Mon people who fled Burma and became famous for their terracotta skills. It is also home to Thailand’s first craft beer brewery disguised as a brewing school. Enjoy a few of the day’s specials before returning to the hotel by boat. Why it’s cool: • A great combination of experiences with some exercise and a rewarding ending • Hang out with the local hipsters and artists at a cool little bar, watching the diverse river traffic cruise by Who should go? • Those who enjoy exploring by bicycle • Those who have seen the main sights of Bangkok and are looking to explore further afield, or those who just want to get out of the city for a day • Those who enjoy shopping for local arts and crafts and who appreciate craft beer
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Image: Courtesy of The Peninsula Bangkok
FLY LIKE AN ANGEL
Viewing Bangkok from a helicopter truly gives you a unique picture of the epic size of this incredible urban metropolis and its many contrasts. Participants can take to the skies at sunrise, sunset or any time, in fact The Peninsula Bangkok is in the enviable position of having a rooftop helipad with 24-hour landing rights. Guests will be greeted at The Lobby and taken to the private, rooftop Paribatra Aviation Lounge, which opened in 1998 and is dedicated to the spirit and history of Thai aviation. High above the city on the 37th floor, it honours the first aircraft designed and built in Thailand, the Paribatra bomber. A fully restored and highly polished 1927 Bristol Jupiter radial aircra engine, as used in the Paribatra bomber, is on display in this exclusive venue. A glass walled private elevator then takes guests directly to the roof top helipad, stepping out to enjoy an unrivalled panorama of Bangkok before the flight commences. Why it’s cool: • The convenience of leaving and returning from the hotel's rooftop make this the easiest possible way to enjoy a helicopter flight • Imagine your photos of sunrise over the City of Angels - what moment could be more Instagram worthy? • This helicopter flight is both thrilling and exclusive from take-off to landing, and would look phenomenal on social media platforms Who should go? • Ideal for families and groups of up to eight people • Photographers, thrill-seekers, and those out to impress • Anyone who has a helicopter flight on their bucket list - this is one of the easiest, most impressive flights on offer anywhere
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Image: Courtesy of The Peninsula Bangkok
SAK YANT TATTOOS
This programme offers a remarkable experience for those interested in the art of Thai traditional Sak Yant tattoos. Participants will visit an authentic samnak, where the resident ajarn is well known for the intricacy of their tattoo craftsmanship. Sak Yant tattoos are believed to offer power, protection, fortune, charisma and other benefits for the bearer. If a more permanent memento of your trip to Thailand is desired, participants have the option to have traditional tattoo applied using oil instead of ink, an invisible tattoo that nonetheless retains its spiritual power. Why it’s cool: • These tattoos are magical! • A unique art form passed through generations • Theses tattoos are life-changing and a spiritual experience for those who choose to be inked and blessed with one Who should go? • Tattoo collectors • Those interested in the sacred art of Sak Yant • Those who are spiritually curious • Those considering a more permanent memento of their trip
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EVENING POTIONS
The Peninsula Bangkok turns bar hopping into an adventure by offering an exploration of the backstreets of the old town and discovering new hip bars popping up in restored shophouses. Cocktails, interiors and music fused with traditional Thai culture make this experience unique and memorable. Jump into an iconic Thai tuk-tuk and cruise through the thick atmosphere of Bangkok after dark on three wheels and explore the new emerging nightlife revival scene popping up on the edge of Chinatown. Participants can end the evening in one of Bangkok’s more well-known bars like Smalls, Maggie Choo’s or Sing Sing Theatre. Alternatively, enjoy a riverside rooftop cocktail at Sala Rattanakosin with a spectacular view of the illuminated, Temple of Dawn across the river. Why it’s cool: • Totally off the beaten path • Away from the red light and tourist entertainment districts • Mix with the local creative scene, artists, designers, hipsters and the advertising industry crowd • Your personal host knows many of the owners and can translate conversations • Discover traditional Thai herbs and natural healing ingredients and learn how they can be incorporated into cocktails and snacks • It’s cool to explore Bangkok at night, literally 10oC cooler!
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STREET FOOD NIGHT SAFARI
This programme begins at the heart of street food: Yaowarat (Bangkok’s Chinatown). Fast, frenetic and eclectic, a ramble through Yaowarat is a symphony for the senses. Participants will enjoy an outstanding Thai meal before a fascinating walk through narrow market lanes hunting down street snacks and gaining a deeper understanding of the cultural mosaic that is Bangkok. This is followed by a local tuk-tuk ride to the flower market, the spice market, and Tha Tien market. Why it’s cool: • Bangkok is the street food capital of the world • Authentic Bangkok, authentic Thai food Who should go? • Those who are interested in food ... and hungry! • Those who like to walk and experience cool neighbourhoods at night • Seen it all? There’s always something new here
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Image: Courtesy of The Peninsula Bangkok
EXCLUSIVE AYUTTHAYA
The ancient Siamese capital of Ayutthaya was the crowning glory of the kingdom from 1350 to 1767. Preserved in history, Ayutthaya remains a magnificent site to be seen. Participants can explore this stunning UNESCO World Heritage site up close with only a few areas off limits, and climb ancient steps into crumbling courtyards where kings once held court. This is a city of ruins that, during its 500-year history, grew to become a centre for global diplomacy and commerce, and once housed Buddhist temples of monumental proportions. This experience includes a pleasant walk through a landscape of ruins, large trees and reservoirs, away from the tour buses and roads, with an expert host dispensing fascinating historical facts as and when needed, as well as cold towels and refreshments. Other highlights include a river cruise around the island of Ayutthaya to view the red-hued ruins from tons of laterite bricks that formed the exterior of many of the structures, towering prangs that survived the destruction of invaders, stone sculptures and Buddhist imagery scattered everywhere, occasionally one entwined in the roots of giant silk-cotton trees. The culinary highlight of this adventure is a lunch of the famous Ayutthaya giant BBQ river prawns. Why it’s cool: • It’s a wonderfully vivid illustration of Siam’s rich history Who should go? • Those interested in the region’s history, culture and architecture • Visitors with some extra time to spare in Bangkok who wish to explore beyond the city
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Image: David Elliot
THE VENICE OF THE EAST
The great city of Bangkok originated from small diverse riverside communities extending inland along a web of man-made canals. It was referred to as ‘The Venice of the East’ by the first Europeans to arrive. Over the last century, many of these canals have been filled in to allow for more roads. However, on the west side of the river in less-developed Thonburi, many canals remain, as does the traditional lifestyle of water-dependent transportation and commerce. A private longtail boat picks up participants from the Peninsula pier and travels along the waterways to otherwise difficult-to-reach areas, weaving in and out of the barges and ferries on the busy Chao Phraya River before darting into the maze of narrow canals at the Thonburi side of the river. The journey passes through 300 year-old ethnic neighbourhoods where children jump off bridges into the water, giant lizards sun themselves on rocks, and rickety old wooden homes sit above the water on precarious stilts, with postal delivery and rubbish collection services still provided only by boat. Other points of interest include places of worship and trade for early settlers, elderly women plying their trades from small bobbing paddle boats, and artist communities restoring waterfront wooden shops. Why it’s cool: • Special access to difficult-to-reach areas that are less visited • A close-up look at river transport and river and canal life Who should go? • Those interested in the historical beginnings of Bangkok and authentic Thailand • Those looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of the big city, see some greenery and get some fresh air • Those who have had their fill of temples and palaces
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SUNDOWN CRUISE TREASURES ON THE RIVER OF KINGS
No trip to Thailand’s capital is complete without taking a journey along the regal Chao Phraya River. Take one of The Peninsula Bangkok’s rice barge-inspired boats in the evening departing from the hotel’s pier, heading to the King Rama VIII bridge. Iconic landmarks including historical sites and heritage buildings along the river make for an interesting trip. Live Thai instrumental music is performed on board and unlimited cocktails and mocktails are on offer throughout the cruise. Guests who prefer bubbles can enjoy free-flowing Peninsula champagne. Why it’s cool: • This tour is private, just for you! • You can direct your bartenders to mix your favourite drinks the way you like them • The boat captain can hold the boat and stay a little longer in front of any iconic site for photo opportunities Who should go? • Anyone who loves to get out on the water and see the bustling river in action • Guests who want to experience their cocktail hour with a twist
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The ART of BLISS
TEXT: ANN TSANG PORTRAIT: ANTONIO SABA
The 150 million Baht (US$ 4.7 million) inaugural Bangkok Art Biennale 2018 will take place from October 2018 to February 2019 in 20 locations around the city. The four-month extravaganza aims to promote contemporary art and Thai culture, and will feature 75 artists, both international and Thai, who will interpret the theme ‘Beyond Bliss’ through their works. The Peninsula magazine speaks to Prof. Dr. Apinan Poshyananda, Chief Executive and Artistic Director of the project, to learn what’s in store for visitors.
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he contemporary art world now has over 200 Biennales, and the latest city to enter the arena is the Thai capital of Bangkok. One of the world's most attractive tourist destinations, the City of Angels comprises complex multiple layers of heritage, traditions, religions and ethnicities. In the past, Bangkok thrived with travellers and traders from China, India and Europe who witnessed life on the Chao Phraya River and its canal arteries on riverboats, rafts and rice barges. Throughout the years, missionaries, diplomats and artists have recorded their experiences of the city with overwhelming passion, and comparisons between Bangkok and Venice became commonplace, so much so that the former came to be known as “the Venice of the East”. Today, the sprawling city is more than liberally peppered with condominiums, shopping malls and skyscrapers, and now more than ever, visitors are attracted to Bangkok for its tropical climate, hospitality, cuisine, entertainment, and spiritual enlightenment. As a city of art and culture, Bangkok is full of rich tradition, creativity and both ancient and contemporary art and architecture, making it an obvious candidate for the staging of an Art Biennale. 2018 marks the first Biennale in Bangkok and a new alluring destination for artists, art enthusiasts, writers and those seeking new discoveries awaits. “Bangkok has been a destination for visitors from afar for a long, long time - ever since the times of the 19th century or even earlier, and has been projected as “the Venice of the East” by travellers, writers, photographers and artists - so it’s like an exotic version of Venice where people want to enjoy themselves - the
comparison between the Grand Canal and the Chao Phraya river is really quite obvious,” notes Prof. Dr. Apinan Poshyananda, the Chief Executive and Artistic Director of the Bangkok Art Biennale, as he contemplatively sips his cup of tea sitting in The Lobby of The Peninsula early on a Sunday morning, looking across the river towards the East Asiatic Building, just one of the 20 venues that will host the international art extravaganza. “There have been many plans previously to host some sort of major art event in Bangkok; call it what you like, Biennale or any other name, but we all know that Thailand is Thailand – so up until now we haven’t really been able to plan anything beyond a period of more than two years. As ‘Biennale’ means every two years, everything need to be planned well in advance, and although the government is obviously very supportive, we have to rely on corporations and non-government bodies for funding, and budget planning for the fiscal year tends to only happen annually, so we need to work in such a way whereby these entities will be fully committed to the project.” Officially launched at the opening of the Venice Biennale in Italy in May 2017, Dr. Apinan and his team, including Thai and Asian curators, as well as directors from the world's leading museums, aim to introduce Thailand as a new contemporary art destination. The Thai organisers have been inspired by the leading Biennales staged in Venice, Sydney, Fukuoka, Shanghai and Singapore. For the inaugural Bangkok Art Biennale, Apinan and a selected group of curators from across Asia have asked the 75 participating artists to explore the theme ‘Beyond Bliss’.
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Under this theme, visitors will be able to experience dynamic interpretations of joy, happiness and enrichment. “As bliss can be momentary and ephemeral, artists often end up capturing its different variants depending on the perspective of the individual. The quest and yearning for bliss can provide both nourishment as well as escapism for the mind. Artists will reflect and share different points of view regarding exuberance, refuge, and serenity. Some will comment on the lack of bliss due to the socio-political problems and the destruction of green environments. Others will embrace bliss’ abundance in sacred and peaceful places of Bangkok. Regardless of their viewpoint of the subject matter, artists will be challenged by Bangkok’s complexities as their backdrop, working with the city’s past, present, and future to tell their own stories on bliss. The theme of ‘Beyond Bliss’ seems particularly apt in these times, whereby it will explore positivity amidst the current issues facing the world. “We live in a present state of fear, protest and delusion,” says Apinan. “So we have invited our selected artists to comment on this lack of bliss, which has been created due to political clashes, disease, pollution and migration.” This theme will be interpreted by a total of 75 artists, both established and emerging. The ambitious art extravaganza will showcase the works of Serb Marina Abramovic, Japan’s Yayoi Kusama, Italian Francesco Clemente, Chinese-Frenchman Huang Yong Ping, South Korean Choi Jeong Hwa, Indonesian Heri Dono and Japanese Yoshitomo Nara, and Thailand’s own Sakarin KrueOn, to name just a handful. Apinan seems particularly delighted about having secured the participation of Abravovic, the 71 year-old Serbian artist who is arguably the most influential figure in the genre of performance art today. “I have worked with Marina for more than 20 years now,” he says. “I first met her at an event in Japan when I went up to her to introduce myself and said, ‘it would be great if you could come to Thailand’ and she said ‘I have been visiting Thailand for many decades without anyone really knowing about my journeys.’ I told her I had no money, and asked her whether she might consider coming on an ‘exchange’ basis. I said ‘if you come to Bangkok, what would you like?’, and she replied, ‘I like durian, and soy milk’. So she ended up coming, and we supplied her with endless durian and soy milk for two weeks [laughs]. So the friendship has been long lasting and then when the tsunami happened in 2005, much of the southern part of the country suffered immense devastation, we staged an anniversary event whereby we organised art on the beach, poetry reading and other activities and Marina came and stayed in Phuket for several weeks, during which time she created an incredible film and installation.” The Abramovic showcase, featuring a selection of the artist’s works as well as a collaboration with Thai performance artists, will take place at the East Asiatic Trading Company building on the banks of the Chao Phraya river, directly facing The Peninsula Bangkok, just one of the 20 venues that will be housing exhibits throughout the course of the Biennale. Other notable venues include the Temple of Dawn, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, the Temple of the Iron Fence, Lumpini Park, the Central Embassy, as well as shopping malls including Siam Paragon, Siam Discovery and Central World.
This inclusive and diverse selection of venues – historical, religious, cultural and commercial – leads me to ask Apinan about a topic that is frequently discussed in the art world today, that of art shows more frequently being positioned as elitist, and non-inclusive. “We have committed to three Biennales over a period of six years, so in order to make it sustainable and successful, we need to encourage the participation of as many people as possible, of all ages and from all walks of life - not just people in the art community. We would like to welcome people who perhaps feel that art is out of their reach; people who may feel intimidated about not knowing much about the subject. There are also those who may feel uncomfortable walking into a white gallery space because it looks foreboding or unwelcoming. That’s why we want to showcase art in areas where people can cross those ‘boundaries’ easily. They can do this in temples and public spaces, as these areas are familiar to them. We want to try to be more horizontal in such a way whereby everyone can enjoy art; for example, Yayoi Kusama, whose work is a major attraction around the world - we will put this in a department store. So we feel that this menu we are offering to Thai audiences is definitely not elitist.” Big draw card names aside, I ask Apinan about the selection process for determining the 75 participating artist in the Biennale. “There were various criteria that we incorporated into the selection process. We have an international team of consultants from global institutions like the Saatchi Gallery, the Guggenheim Museum, and the Mori Art Museum, and a curatorial team which consists of five curators - three from Thailand, and one each from Singapore and the Philippines. Another method we used was hosting an open call, which gave gave artists the opportunity to apply and show us their personal interpretation of the theme ‘Beyond Bliss.’ Other Biennales don’t tend have open calls and the selection process is done by a designated team of curators or experts. We wanted to create some sort of balance; a mix of world-class artists and artists who are still in the early parts of their careers. Almost half of the 75 artists are Thai and we also tried to representatives from the four regions of Thailand. Over the last five years in particular, Bangkok has seen an unprecedented cultural explosion and a major leap in artistic development, thus it seems particularly fitting that this has now fully manifested in the upcoming inaugural Art Biennale in the Thai capital. “The art scene has been waiting for some sort of breathing time in terms of stability,” notes Apinan. “Because during the past decade, there have been these constant hiccups, whereby artists have wanted to breathe, but haven’t been able to do so fully. But for the past four years, the political and economical landscape has been relatively stable and peaceful, so this is a time when we have seen that creativity cannot be stopped, which is a great thing for this country and its artists.” As our discussion draws to a close, I am curious as to whether this very learned and successful figure in the art world has any further ambitions, now that he has successfully placed Bangkok onto the art world map. “I’m getting old!” he exclaims with a modest laugh. “The Biennale has been something that we have worked tirelessly on to bring to Bangkok, so now our challenge is to make it sustainable, to make it last through 2022, and then to perhaps continue, or develop it in other forms. The most prevailing objective is that it must serve the community, and reach out to as many people as possible.”
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87 Jean-Michel Basquiat - ‘Self Portrait’, 1984, Acrylic and oilstick on paper mounted on canvas, 98.7 x 71.1 cm
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FLIGHTS of FANTASY TEXT: ANN TSANG PORTRAIT: ANTONIO SABA
Phannapast Taychamaythakool, perhaps more pronouncably known as ‘Yoon’, is an emerging Bangkok-based designer and artist. The Thailand native is the Creative Director of the fashion brand Kloset and recently rose to greater fame through her illustration work for Gucci. The talented 31 year-old is also behind the creation of the 20 th anniversary logo for The Peninsula Bangkok.
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t’s another blisteringly hot day in Bangkok as fashion designer and illustrator Phannapast Taychamaythakool wafts into The Lobby of The Peninsula Bangkok, defying the heat in one of her signature long, voluminous dresses, generously adorned with embroidered vibrant mythical creatures of her own design. At once childlike, somewhat shy and very soft spoken, she takes her seat at a corner table, seemingly half-shielded by her sidekick whom she has brought along to assist with translation, although in fact in turns out that with a little encouragement, Phannapast is perfectly able to communicate in English and through the treasure trove of colourful illustrations and her prized copy of Le Marché des Merveilles, a beautiful and whimsical story book that she was commissioned to illustrate by luxury fashion giant Gucci for the launch of its jewellery line of the same name in 2017. Phannapast’s illustration work came to the attention of Gucci’s Creative Director Alessandro Michele on Instagram when she drew her own version of one of the tiger motifs featured in the brand’s 2017 Cruise collection and posted it on her feed with the hashtag #guccicruisenyc. “Alessandro found my work and invited me to participate in the brand’s second iteration of of its phenomenally popular first Instagram art project, which involved the interpretation of the house’s ‘Tian’ motif, which was inspired by 18th century Chinoiserie,” recalls Phannapast, with a little help from her friend. Phannapast’s participation in that project led to her being shortlisted by Gucci amongst five other artists to illustrate a fairytale-like book to promote its 2017 Le Marché des Merveilles fine jewellery collection, and she ultimately became the sole illustrator of the project whilst her college friend, writer Aracha Cholitgul was brought in to write three fairytales related to the collection. The pair attended Chulalongkorn University at the same time, with Phannapast earning a degree in fashion design and Aracha a degree in ceramics. “We created a storyline loosely based on the theme of people learning to accept themselves for who they are whilst also respecting others for who they are,” explains Phannapast, who also reveals that much of the words are based on personal experience. “The jewellery collection explores the animal kingdom and the adventures of its inhabitants, so I decided to represent this with a somewhat mythical sense of fantasy. For example, in the third chapter, a dolphin has a romance with a panther, which of course in real life would never happen!” she says with a quiet laugh. In the first chapter entitled ‘A Present from the Sky’, a cat wants to disguise himself with a mask as he is embarrassed about his facial appearance (he has a prominent mole). He then gets a gift from heaven and gradually learns to accept himself, learning that beauty also comes from the inside and not simply through appearance. In the third and final chapter, a giant elephant wearing a blue floral print dress and a large red hat wants to be a craftsman, but he is clumsy due to his size. In the jewellery factory, he meets a wise monkey who befriends him and helps him to overcome his issues. “The message behind that story is to try not to judge a book by its cover,” explains the artist.
I am now very clear that these stories are actually based on Phannapast’s own life; she in reality being a ‘he’. In addition to the creation of the book, the collaboration with Gucci also manifested in giant installations of Phannapast’s fantasylike portraits at the brand’s New York Fifth Avenue and Beverly Hills boutiques. “When this [commission] happened, I could hardly believe it at first,” she says. “I used to just keep my work to myself, but social media has really helped, and it has changed my life. I actually refer to my Instagram presence as being ‘a stranger in the garden’, as I am just another unknown person in a universe of others,” she says rather matter-of-factly. This seems somewhat paradoxical as Phannapast’s work reportedly adorns the wallpaper within Instagram’s New York office. Other projects that bear Phannapast’s name include a soft furnishing line for one of Thailand’s best-known brands internationally - Jim Thompson, a design for a Samsung Galaxy smartphone and numerous others. Her latest commission was to create the 20th Anniversary logo for The Peninsula Bangkok. Inspired by timeless Thai mysticism bonded with elements of Chinese culture, the hotel’s anniversary emblem features a traditional Thai pattern called Pra Cham Yam. An inner circle protected by two creatures; Naga, a river creature from Thai mythology, and a Chinese Dragon in the form of Ouroboros, is juxtaposed with two squares overlaid on top of each other. The striking outline evokes an auspicious lotus flower with eight petals, a sacred number in Chinese culture. Anchoring the design with Bangkok-inspired imagery, the artist installed the Thai character for the number 20 at the centre of the emblem to represent a royal barge cruising the gentle waves of the Chao Phraya River. The beautifully balanced shades of Peninsula green (in the dragon’s head), red, gold, blue and black are influenced by the kaleidoscopic rainbows in the sky that the artist observed while taking a boat ride along the River of Kings. They also convey the sense of vitality, joy and celebration that travellers experience while staying at The Peninsula Bangkok. In addition to the 20th anniversary logo, The Peninsula Bangkok commissioned Phannapast to craft a complementary series of motifs that whimsically depict the local lifestyle and cultural elements incorporated into the hotel’s ‘20 Amazing Thai Experiences’ programme (see pages 50-85). The intricate, brightly shaded designs include an angel driving a tuk-tuk, a beatific angel bearing flowers, which represents the hotel’s lush tropical gardens, and a kind-hearted angel rowing a boat to depict The Peninsula Bangkok’s magnificent riverside landscape and luxurious guest experiences. The special 20th anniversary emblem and the storytelling icons will feature on commemorative merchandise, including a limited edition silk scarf produced by Jim Thompson exclusively for The Peninsula Bangkok, bone China mugs, pens, lapel pins and hotel stationery. Guests and local residents can also look out for these beautiful Thai-inspired designs on the hotel’s social media channels throughout the year.
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A RIVERSIDE Renaissance TEXT: ANN TSANG
IMAGES: ANTONIO SABA
Australian-born David Robinson, an expat who moved to Bangkok in 2002 to volunteer with ActionAid, an international humanitarian agency focused on poverty eradication, is now a Director of Bangkok River Partners and a member of the Creative District Foundation’s steering committee. His mission is to promote the Chao Phraya River as a leading destination for leisure and tourism, part of which involves the evolution of the city’s already flourishing Creative District.
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angkok is one of the fastest growing cities in the world. With a rapidly expanding infrastructure, transportation network and real estate development, and a population estimated to reach 15 million by 2025, the metropolis is also witnessing a massive revival of the Chao Phraya River and the districts close to its banks. “The Chao Phraya is a treasure chest of history, culture and spirituality,” says David Robinson, director of Bangkok River Partners, an entity established in 2013 to fuel the revival effort. More recently, Robinson also co-founded the Creative District Foundation, a non-profit organisation whose mission statement is the preservation of certain building, the encouragement of creative development and the improvement of the environment specifically in the now thriving riverside districts of Bang Rak and Klongsan. Bangkok’s story began along the banks of the Chao Phraya River so it is no surprise that the Creative District contains a wealth of historically and culturally significant buildings, therefore the River and the Creative District are intrinsically interlinked as are Robinson’s positions with Bangkok River Partners and the Creative District Foundation. “Houses of worship of diverse religions, shophouses that reflect architecture of a different period, and old institutional buildings that mark eras gone by are all located within the district,” notes Robinson. “Our vision is to encourage people to visit them, help spread awareness of them, and with collaborative action we can aim to help preserve them for generations.”
Robinson asserts that such a district in Bangkok should function as a diverse, inclusive, interdependent, and resilient ecosystem whereby existing creativity constantly encourages new creativity. “We identify and work with partners to pursue to completion keystone projects that are inherently creative in themselves and inspires others.” Bangkok’s true character is found in its various clusters of communities, and the same holds true for the Creative District. “These communities are what is truly authentic about the area and holds onto key connections to insights about the past. If we do not embrace these communities and preserve their way of life, we risk permanently severing ourselves from knowledge and traditions that enrich our own lives,” says Robinson, who knows the District like the back of his hand and is full of knowledge about every noon and cranny. “The only way to understand the Creative District is to see it for yourself. Rows of shophouses unchanged for decades, hidden historical buildings, houses of worship maintaining diversity, art galleries displaying new perspectives, street stalls and restaurants offering flavourful cuisines, institutions promoting new ideas and projects, and much more,” adds Robinson as he takes me on a whirlwind tour, stopping off at countless small restaurants, bars and galleries along the way.” In the following pages, we take you on an abbreviated tour, and the rest I enourage you to come and see for yourself…
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A CREATIVE MOVEMENT TEXT: DAVID ROBINSON
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istricts in Bangkok are well defined by their legacy personalities and what they offer. But districts evolve. In particular, Bang Rak and Klongsan, previously associated with quiet river life, are going through a renaissance and have become a story of neighbourhood revival. The two riverside districts together, having seen a rise in the number of artists and innovative entities moving in, have been newly dubbed ‘The Creative District’. Up and down Charoenkrung on the east side and Charoennakhon on the west side, new destinations have popped up and make for an exciting new scene. Enough galleries have popped up that a tipping point was reached – so much so that there is now a monthly gallery hop hosted by the owners. The primary goal of this event is to draw visitors to the galleries but its unintended benefits for participants are multifold, as they can now be more adventurous and explore Bang Rak, one section of the Creative District, on foot. By wandering the sidewalks of this neighbourhood on their self-guided tour, visitors and locals alike can stop and visit interesting establishments they might have otherwise zoomed by on two, three, or four wheels. Bang Rak, in return, gets a greater inf lux of people and renewed interest and appreciation for the area. Regular participating establishments in the gallery hopping event include ATTA Gallery, The Jam Factory, Serindia Gallery, P.Tendercool, and Speedy Grandma. Cool new boutique hotels have also opened doors and alongside the luxury hotels welcome new generations of tourists looking to experience Bangkok away from downtown. The food scene is also strong in the Creative District. Having inherited myriad street food shops on Charoenkrung and received new eating houses all around, the district is sure to delight foodies looking to get a taste of Bangkok from no-frills vendors to high-end restaurants.
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ART ON THE STREETS
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treet art has landed in Bangkok and is transforming the streetscapes of its evolving neighbourhoods.In 2016, BUKRUK Urban Arts Festival brought in artists from around the world for a 10-day celebration of public wall paintings, art exhibitions, artist talks, animation and music. The festival itself might be transient but its legacy is not – the wall paintings left behind now put Bangkok on the map as a contender for an emerging street art city. Stretching from Samphanthawong down to Bangrak, the wall paintings range from massive eye-catching concepts such as that of Daan Botlek at Sathon Pier to smaller intimate detailed drawings like Daehyun Kim’s in Charoenkrung Soi 28. The styles are varied and the colours mood-altering. A stroll down Charoenkrung Soi 32 exposes one to the expressions of Kult, Lolay and special guests, and can elicit powerful thoughts and emotions.
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WHAT’S IN A NAME?
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ou’re wondering why ‘Speedy Grandma’ right? According to an urban ghost legend, a grandma was riding a motorbike in Bangkok when she was suddenly cut in two by a string stretched across the street. It is said that from that tragic incident onwards, anyone who rides too fast in that small street will see in the rear view mirror grandma’s upper torso crawling after the vehicle… That is the underlying idea behind Speedy Grandma. Just like its namesake, it seeks to spread the artwork in its gallery in a viral manner: fun and fast. If you do go, make sure you stop by its watering hole. The bar is as good as any and will provide the energy you need through the night. If you are lucky, you might be present for one of the talks that are regularly hosted there. Anything related to art is a possible topic for the night. Speedy Grandma is just one of the galleries located in Charoenkrung Soi 28 (CK28), a triangular block at the northern end of the Creative District brimming with creatives and their solo projects, with the whole greater than the sum of the efforts of the residents and tenants. Like many stories of neighbourhood revival, Charoenkrung Soi 28’s status was a relatively quiet lane until 2012 when Speedy Grandma opened in a shophouse and soon positioned itself as an “alternative space”. The group responsible aimed to showcase more experimental ideas and works and challenge the pre-conceived notion that art is exclusive. In advocating the unique role of art in the society, Speedy Grandma drew more and more people to the area, who then in turn became inspired by its location on the fringe and began establishing their own places there. The artists taking over the area work on a wide range of media, creating a diverse microcosm that is rapidly becoming more influential and exciting for both locals and visitors.
IF WALLS COULD TALK…
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hils' groundbreaking carving technique reveals both his memories and history in Bangkok. Alexandre Farto has been interacting visually with the urban environment under the name of ‘Vhils’ since his days as a prolific graffiti writer in the early 2000s. The artist’s technique, which forms the basis of his ‘Scratching the Surface’ project, has been hailed as one of the most compelling approaches to art created in the streets in the last decade. Vhils has stated that he now draws inspiration not only from what he sees in the streets, but also what the wall layers reveal to him. His designs are dictated by what lies underneath as he carves and each new revelation shifts his art away from its original plans. In February 2017, Vhils visited Bangkok to create his unique form on street art on the wall of the historic Portuguese Embassy in the Creative District. The very human design plays out faces and scenes from the area while paying homage to Portuguese patterns and expressing the centuries long Thai-Portuguese relationship. His work also reveals bricks from the Ayutthaya period and more recent concrete blocks used to fix a hole from when a bus collided into the wall.
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THE EAST SIDE
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or years, the seven large warehouses behind the Embassy of Portugal sat unused, except for the sole presence of P. Tendercool – a Belgian-run design studio specialising in bespoke handmade furniture. The team behind The Jam Factory came and saw the potential of the complex as being a complementary creative centre and soon began work on restoring the warehouses for contemporary function. The result is Warehouse 30, which opened in 2017 to much fanfare. Through careful conservation and minimal intervention, many of the interesting architectural elements of the warehouse have been preserved. The exposed pillars, beams and steel structures still lay bare for all to see, and the original wooden floor also remains, which is key in retaining the old warehouse feel. The 4,000 square metre complex has become a mixed-use space that encourages visitors to come and while away the day. Warehouse 30 is in its own way a one-stop-shop. If you are in need of a new wardrobe, trendy clothing stores are available in the fourth warehouse. When you are done shopping, stop over at the fifth warehouse for a satisfying meal or drink in one the several cafés and bars. Walk over to the last two warehouses to find a minievent space for film screenings and yoga classes, and a multipurpose shop selling various brands displaying their own specialty wares. One visit will not be enough, as strong programming will keep events such as TED x Charoenkrung and others coming back.
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TRADING Places TEXT: ANN TSANG IMAGES: ANTONIO SABA SPECIAL THANKS TO PROF. DR. APINAN POSHYANANDA
In the apt words of David Robinson, a Director of Bangkok River Partners and a Founder of the Thai capital’s Creative District Foundation: “To see the East Asiatic Trading Company building is an encounter with one of Bangkok's most important and colourful expatriates.” Between October 2018 and the beginning of February 2019, the period of the staging of the inaugural Bangkok Art Biennale, hundreds of thousands of visitors will have the opportunity to see the inside of this spectacular historical building, following more than a decade of being out of commission. The Peninsula magazine is granted exclusive access to the building in the run up to one of Bangkok’s most anticipated cultural events.
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he East Asiatic Company was founded in 1884, when Captain Hans Niels Andersen, a Danish sea captain, established a trading company in Bangkok on the famous Oriental Avenue. The company, a Danish conglomeration that spanned the globe, started out by running teak concessions in the north of Thailand and importing goods by water freight via the Chao Phraya River and was pivotal in developing trade between Thailand and the rest of the world The company has a rise and fall tale that spans more than a century, which has been archived by the Danish government. In its documentation, Bangkok was the chosen location for its operations in Asia and played an instrumental role in the development of this global company. To understand why Bangkok was selected, one has to know its visionary founder Captain Hans Niels Andersen. In his youth, Andersen received training as a carpenter at a shipbuilding yard and eventually traversed the globe as a ship’s carpenter. He arrived in Siam in 1873 and proved his worth to become first mate and then a master on the Siamese ship Thoon Kramom, owned by the King. But Andersen wasn’t just a sailor; he was also a shrewd businessman. In 1881, he bought a plot of land on Oriental Avenue and built the first luxury hotel in the Kingdom of Siam, built in the Venetian style of the time by Italian architectural firm Cardu and Rossi. Subsequently, Andersen’s vision to create a shipping line between Denmark, Thailand, and East Asia materialised in the form of the East Asiatic Company. Again, the entrepreneur turned to Stefano Cardu to create the company’s headquarters, adjacent to his hotel, in the classical Venetian architectural style.
The East Asiatic Company flourished, taking its share in almost “everything from shipping, ship-building, slaughterhouses, plantations, the pharmaceutical industry, industrial companies and agencies for countless global corporations”. Today, the company’s former headquarters still stands proudly on the Chao Phraya’s edge, directly facing The Peninsula Bangkok across the river, and is considered a rare historical structure. To walk along beside it akin to travelling back in time, when Bangrak was the de facto European quarter of Bangkok, and to enter it has been a rare privilege over the past decade as it has sat empty. The building is a standout in the Creative District, and thus it seems most fitting that it will open its doors once again in October 2018 as one of the host venues of the inaugural Bangkok Biennale. East Asiatic Company, which houses this beautiful century-old building located on a curve in the channel of the Chao Phraya River. “We want the work here to be a site-specific piece because the building’s history is related to the Thailand - European relations,” says Professor Dr. Apinan Poshyananda, Chief Executive and Artistic Director of the Bangkok Art Biennale. The building will be the venue for the renowned and controversial Serbian performance artist Marina Abramovic, who, in addition to her own exhibit, will work alongside Thai artists under the auspices of her eponymous institute. “We will have Thai artists create a film about expeditions and the important role of water, and the architectural landscape of Copenhagen and Bangkok,” reveals Dr. Apinan. “We believe that this site-specific project is something that will truly ref lect the nature of this historical intercultural relationship, and enhance our visitors’ enjoyment of this spectacular building.”
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SPECIAL FEATURE
ROLEX and CINEMA For decades, Rolex has been linked to the magical and wondrous world of cinema: from appearances of Rolex timepieces in legendary films to the brand’s support of young filmmakers through its philanthropic work, and, more recently, with four distinguished filmmakers and Rolex Testimonees – Kathryn Bigelow, James Cameron, Alejandro G. Iñárritu and Martin Scorsese – as well as through the Rolex partnership with the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences.
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Martin Scorsese
James Cameron
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he history of Rolex is inextricably intertwined with that of cinema. Rolex watches have featured in many iconic movies as the personal and stylistic choice of the filmmakers, and in some cases belonged to the actors themselves. They have become part of the storytelling, as an element for a film’s plot. Each one symbolises a character’s personality, bringing to life their journey on screen. Rolex timepieces have also been worn on the wrists of influential filmmakers, producers and writers as they create cinema magic. When making a film, both time and the careful selection of every detail are paramount in creating a universe which can captivate an audience and take them back in time, into the future, or somewhere beyond their wildest dreams. As of 2017, Rolex is the Exclusive Watch of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, organisers of the Academy Awards, and Proud Sponsor of the Oscars® for the first time at the 89th Academy Awards, the most prized recognition of cinematic excellence. The Academy’s mission is to recognise and uphold excellence in the motion picture arts and sciences, inspire imagination, and connect the world through the medium of film. Rolex recognises in the Academy a perfect partner to uphold the art of storytelling. Rolex’s connection with the Academy reaches into the essence of filmmaking, as the brand is Founding Supporter of the Academy Museum. The museum, under construction in Los Angeles and due to open in 2019, is aimed at safeguarding the history of cinema. Located in the historic heartland of the movie industry, it will be the world’s premier institution devoted to exploring the art and science of the moving image. Through this association, Rolex is contributing to the preservation of the history of film. Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano, the museum will include a 1,000-seat theatre, with 50,000 square feet of immersive exhibition galleries and a state-of-the-art education studio. In addition, since 2016, Rolex has also hosted and designed the Greenroom, the backstage area where guests spend time before they appear onstage during the Oscars ceremony. The 2018 Greenroom featured a new design, influenced by the Rolex universe, with elements reminiscent of the Swiss Alps and architectural components similar to those found on a Rolex watch. A film encompassing the spirit of Rolex and cinema was broadcast widely during the 2017 Oscars, featuring memorable
scenes in films with Rolex watches on the wrists of legendary characters. The film provides a snapshot of the brand throughout the years, but so many more motion pictures can be added to the already impressive list. This year, a new campaign was unveiled during the 90th Academy Awards, featuring an impressive line-up of four outstanding filmmakers, who have each won Best Director Oscars for their work: Kathryn Bigelow, James Cameron, Alejandro G. Iñárritu and Martin Scorsese. These Rolex Testimonees represent the pinnacle of achievement in film; each with their own style and personality have contributed to creating some of the most unforgettable cinematic experiences. They have redefined the art of storytelling on screen. Rolex supports those who achieve the highest level in their fields, be it in sport, or in cinema and the arts. Bigelow, Cameron, Iñárritu and Scorsese are masters of their craft, whose films stand the test of time and which have collectively won 57 Academy Awards. As directors they recognise the importance of capturing moments in time, with their works serving as an artistic interpretation of the world. These four filmmakers have the ability to connect with people across generations, cultures and boundaries, to expand their worlds and allow them to discover something new. The films that live beyond the screen are, as Kathryn Bigelow explains, “the films that endure”. The first and only woman to win an Academy Award for Best Director, Kathryn Bigelow’s command of visual narrative, her tenacity and her choice of subjects that have the ability to provoke change, have redefined the landscape of cinema today. The American director also acts as producer and writer for many of her films. Bigelow co-wrote and directed her first feature film The Loveless in 1981, and in the 1990s directed a trilogy of action films Blue Steel (1989), Point Break (1991) and Strange Days (1995), in which she challenged the conventions of action cinema. Her subsequent films solidified her position as a Hollywood heavyweight with the political action-thrillers The Hurt Locker (2008) and Zero Dark Thirty (2012). For The Hurt Locker, Bigelow won Academy Awards for Best Picture and Best Director. With her most recent work, Detroit, Bigelow directed and produced a film, based on the 1967 Detroit riots, concerning race-related violence in the United States. Her films provoke an examination of the politics that surrounds us, and have established the director as a true auteur.
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Bigelow regards films as a journalistic experience: “If the purpose of art is to agitate for change, then film should expose us to something we don’t already know.” Of appearing with the other three directors in the Rolex film, Bigelow said she felt “extremely humbled and honoured to be in the company of such extraordinary and enduring talents”. James Cameron is an acclaimed filmmaker and explorer. As director, writer and producer he has been responsible for some of the most memorable motion pictures of the past three decades: Terminator (1984), Aliens (1986), The Abyss (1989), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991), True Lies (1994), Titanic (1997), and Avatar (2009). His films have blazed new trails in visual effects and set numerous performance records both domestically and abroad. Avatar is the highest grossing motion picture in history, and Titanic held that same record for 12 years. Cameron’s productions have also earned numerous nominations and awards. Most notably, Titanic received 14 Academy Award nominations and won 11 Oscars, both records, including Cameron’s three Oscars for Best Picture, Best Director and Best Editing. In the 2017 pre-Oscar Rolex campaign featuring Cameron, the award-winning Canadian filmmaker took the audience through a journey into his archive, providing rare glimpses of some of the elements of his most iconic works. Cameron is an admirer of precision; attention to detail in films helps to transport viewers into the world that a movie presents. Cameron has worn a Rolex for several decades, and Rolex watches appear organically in his movies. He gave the late actor Bill Paxton a Rolex Submariner to wear during the filming of Titanic, which featured in the film spot during the 2017 Oscars. “Great movies are made in details, and not just a few details – every detail. Every character, every prop and every sequence,” says Cameron. “A Rolex is not only a beautiful watch and a masterpiece of engineering, it’s very tough. It’s a watch that you can take into any environment and which can stand up to the pressure. So, what you’re saying subliminally to the audience is that character can take the pressure, too; he or she has what it takes.” Cameron describes his experience of being in the film with the other directors: “All four of us have very different styles and we’re interested in very different types of subjects, but what we have in common is a devotion to excellence, from a unique and visionary perspective on the world.”
The winner of two consecutive Oscars for Best Director for Birdman (2015) and The Revenant (2016), Alejandro G. Iñárritu is known for his exploration of the human condition, coupled with his visual style, which have established him as a force to be reckoned with. His debut feature, the 2000 drama Amores Perros, was nominated for the Best Foreign Language Film Oscar, and his two Best Director Oscars have earned the Mexican filmmaker a place in movie history next to Hollywood legends John Ford and Joseph L. Mankiewicz. His latest work, Carney Arena (Virtually Present, Physically Invisible), is a conceptual virtual reality installation based on true accounts that allows the viewer to experience a fragment of the personal journeys of refugees. First presented at the 2017 Cannes Film Festival, it was awarded a special Oscar at the ninth annual Governors Awards, Iñárritu’s fifth Academy Award. The Academy stated it was presenting the award to recognise a “visionary and powerful experience in storytelling”. Iñárritu was film mentor in the 2014–2015 Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative, where he took his protégé on the set of The Revenant. He stated during the filming of the campaign: “Every human being has a unique and unrepeatable life experience. The beauty of cinema is that it allows us to express that unique experience with images and through a personal point of view, and to share it with millions of people at the same time...Our life is multidimensional, but time is linear – we cannot escape that. Cinema is a twodimensional reality within a frame, but time and space are fragmented which is why it’s so liberating and addictive.” Martin Scorsese is a towering guru in the history of cinema, a director, producer and screenwriter with a career spanning 50 years and as many motion pictures, many of which are considered some of the greatest ever made, and a passionate cinema lover who raised our consciousness of ongoing film preservation. He grew up in New York’s Little Italy and made his first movies in the late 1960s. He re-defined our ideas of what was possible in movies with such classics as Mean Streets (1973), Taxi Driver (1976) and Raging Bull (1980). Scorsese’s unique combination of artistry, charisma and generosity continues to inspire other filmmakers and audiences all over the world. Details play a crucial role in telling a story on screen and in many of his most iconic films, Scorsese has chosen to feature Rolex watches, with a preference for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date.
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Kathryn Bigelow
Alejandro González Iñárritu
In 2008, Scorsese became a mentor for the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative and he chose to work with the young Argentinean filmmaker Celina Murga, who was by his side for the filming of Shutter Island (2010). In short, Martin Scorsese has had a profound effect on the art form that became his vocation at a very early age. During the making of the Rolex film, he made a statement that aptly summarises his eternally youthful creative energy: “If it moves a young person, if it instills that kind of excitement and inspiration, I like that very much. I like to see what they do if they’re inspired by something I’ve done…Film really tells us who we are, tells us about ourselves. There’s a reflection of the society that we were at the time, our philosophy of life.” Rolex plays a part in shaping future generations of filmmakers and inspiring existing ones with the Rolex Mentor and Protégé Arts Initiative, launched in 2002 to make a contribution to global culture. The programme seeks out gifted young artists from all over the world and brings them together with artistic masters for a year of creative collaboration in a one-to-one mentoring relationship. Other past mentors in film include Academy Award winner Alfonso Cuarón, film editor Walter Murch, the Oscar-nominated directors Stephen Frears and Mira Nair, as well as renowned Chinese filmmaker Zhang Yimou. Since its early days, Rolex has maintained ties with exceptional individuals and organisations. As it strengthens its ties with the art of filmmaking, the brand is supporting the extraordinary accomplishments of those who are capable of challenging the world by pushing the boundaries of their art. “Rolex supports inspiring individuals and organisations who achieve great heights in both the sporting world and the arts. The Academy and the four exceptional Rolex Testimonees in cinema Kathryn Bigelow, James Cameron, Alejandro G. Iñárritu and Martin Scorsese – exemplify a determination to defy the odds in order to reach unimaginable goals,” states Arnaud Boetsch, Rolex Director of Communication & Image. “They share with Rolex the understanding of the importance of time and making a mark on the world through excellence in storytelling.”
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THE Penultimate: THAI Festivals
Image: Courtesy of The Peninsula Bangkok
Songkran Songkran is the Thai New Year or Water Festival, and is a nationwide celebration that lasts for three days. It is a festival that brings together joy, care, tradition and fun, allowing everyone in the family to bond. Apart from making merry on Songkran Day (13 April), according to tradition, young Thais gather and spread joy and amusement, pouring or splashing water at each other. People stand on the pavement waiting to throw water to all passers-by. The Peninsula Bangkok invites its guests to exclusively discover Songkran like residents of the city. The hotel tuk-tuk will drive around Bangkok for 90 minutes, offering an adventurous ride. Participants will be equipped with their own water gun and are most welcome to shoot water towards the Thai crowds standing by the roads. Songkran Festival: 13-14 April 2019
Loy Krathong According to Thai belief, this festival is a special occasion for people to pay respect and gratitude to the Goddess of Water. Many Thais believe that when they float a krathong, a floating vessel, it is akin to symbolically releasing misfortune. On this special occasion, The Peninsula Bangkok has arranged activities including a Gala Dinner to ensure that guests will have a Loy Krathong memory that is enriched by tradition, grace, exquisite cuisine and entertainment. Guests can learn how to make a krathong from banana leaves and at night, the hotel will offer an exclusive boat ride along the Chao Phraya to observe Bangkok’s iconic landmarks under the full moon while the river is lit by candles from floating krathongs. Loy Krathong Festival: 22 November 2018
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