A LIFE IN MODERN PUNK AND NEW WAVE FASHION

Vivienne Westwood is a name associated with the pinnacle of fashion design. As a person and a brand, the English fashion designer and businesswoman is known worldwide as one of the greatest and most influential British style and luxury clothing architects. But behind the trendy pearl-orb logo necklace, opulent and dreamy tulle wedding gowns, and prevalence in modern “coquette” fashion that seem to characterize the brand today, is a distinctly subversive element of punk influence.

From punk pioneering to a clear resonance with young fashion communities, Vivienne Westwood’s life and work are a story of revolution and individuality that has transcended generations and traditions.

Following the prevalent fashion designer’s passing in late December of 2022, the fashion industry has taken a look back at how her abrasive designs and revolutionary social commentary through clothing shaped the 1970’s and beyond. From her time with the punkrock band the Sex Pistols and the British-teen anarchist movement, to her later years dressing supermodels and designing wedding dresses, Westwood became one of the most revered style icons in the world.

Westwood made her start in the fashion industry in the early 70’s, at a time when the mainstream fashion culture was focused on the hippie movement. Westwood and her partner Malcolm McClaren, on the other hand, drew inspiration from acts of rebellion and the 1950’s. Their own brand of counter-culture grew with the opening of their small London shop called Let it Rock, where Vivienne designed and made rock-and-roll influenced “Teddy Boy” clothing. Malcolm became the manager of a punk band Pistols, for whom they began clothing. Soon, shop began to evolve, with hard-core punk themes provocative slogans. The pair’s prosecution under the 1959 Obscene Publications Act only led to further rebranding in the same trend. By 1976, the confrontational Sex Pistols’ song ‘God Save the Queen’ went to number one on the charts, helping inspire the movement mass media labeled as “punk rock.”

Westwood’s influence on punk culture, and the controversial fashion that stemmed from it, was undeniable. Soon, she and McClaren began to design collections that burst onto the London high-fashion scene. While she began a radical shift away from the punk aesthetic, Westwood nevertheless maintained revolutionary and out-of-the box ideas in her collections, combining punk and romantic aesthetics with 17th and 18th century art and youth street style inspirations.

Combining punk and alternative symbolism with traditional feminine themes, the late eighties and early nineties saw Westwood use clothing to parody the upper class, examine British tradition, encourage sustainability, and comment on elitism. In the years since, Vivienne Westwood boutiques have seen the epitome of art in fashion, as well as the reflection of significant and radical social commentaries by Westwood herself.

In the most recent years, the younger generations have taken to Westwood’s clothing and style; many young adults have popularized the orblogo, which combines the sovereign orb of British royalty and the rings of Saturn, and coquette aesthetic that Westwood’s designs seem to align with.

All in all, Vivienne Westwood and her long career have embodied juxtaposition, combining influences of subculture with traditional tweed and tailoring, and inspiring generations with both fashion and revolutionary ideas that were brilliantly

Junior Joyce Lee, and President of the Arcadia High School (AHS) Fashion Industry Club, reflected on this quality of Westwood’s designs: “Living in an expeditious society, people have only a few seconds to make a impression. In just a fashion can reveal the truth of one’s identity and connect people alike— making individuality paramount. Showcasing an image untrue to oneself will allure those that are dissimilar, unable to see and love who

The interest in Westwood’s designs and aesthetics have certainly permeated the current generation of high school and college students.

“You see Vivienne Westwood’s designs on social media all the time, and they’re really not like anything else anywhere,” said Sophomore Myka Oishii. “That’s really cool, and is a big part of what’s interesting and dynamic about the fashion industry and trends,” added Oishii.

Looking back, it’s clear to see that Vivienne Westwood was never interested in going with the grain. But really, that was never a bad thing. Even after her passing, inspiration can be drawn from her spirit and designs, to help incite a new generation of artists and activists that will keep our society moving forward.

When asked about her feelings on being seen as an “icon”, Westwood said this: “Well I’m not interested. I mean 10 years after I’m dead, nobody will even remember you. It doesn’t matter, you know, I don’t care… I just want to save the world and get a life, you know I mean, that is one of my slogans which is to do with literally “let the Next Generation get a life.”

Staff Writer egladson-pang@ausd.net