THEARTGORGEOUS.COM
ISSUE 4 2018
TINDER OR CALDER
15 VIP-ACCESS HACKS FOR ANY ART FAIR
FURRY FRIENDS
THESE DOGS RULE THE ART WORLD
Plus Zoë Buckman, Sarah Andelman, Craig & Karl, Cao Fei
FE R RAGAMO.COM
CONTENT Beauty Touch-Up from Art History STYLE p. 56
SuperGorgeous Awards JUNGLE p. 32
14 16 18 22 28
Furry ’Grams p. 22
Art Girl Fax KAWS in Numbers Art Ba$ar Furry ’Grams Career Coach
JUNGLE
32 SuperGorgeous Awards 40 The Future of Art x Fashion 46 When the Gloves Come Off
15 Ways to Hack VIP Access into Any Art Fair
STYLE
56 Beauty Touch-Up from Art History 64 Craig & Karl Deconstructed
CANDY
CANDY p. 82
When the Gloves Come Off JUNGLE p. 46
68 What Do Art Fairs Taste Like? 76 John Currin’s Blondest Blondes 82 15 Ways to Hack VIP Access into Any Art Fair 88 The Very Honest Gallerist 6 8 10 12
On the Cover Bertie Hero of Happiness Assistant to the director, The Hole © Kathy Grayson
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Content Imprint Editor’s Letter Contributors
DANIEL ARSHAM Cookie Monster Patch (Purple), 2018. Plaster, metal, paint.114.3 × 123.2 × 5.1 cm / 45 × 48 1/2 × 2 in
DANIEL ARSHAM カラー・シャドウ MAY 23 – JUNE 30, TOKYO NEW YORK LOWER EAST SIDE
PARIS MARAIS
HONG KONG CENTRAL
SEOUL JONGNO-GU
TOKYO ROPPONGI
JEAN-MICHEL OTHONIEL
LEE BAE
KAWS
LESLIE HEWITT
KAWS
MARCH 3 – APRIL 15
MARCH 17 – MAY 26
MARCH 26 – MAY 19
MARCH 21 – MAY 5
MARCH 22 – MAY 12
ARTIE VIERKANT
MATTHEW RONAY
NI YOUYU
XU ZHEN®
DANIEL ARSHAM
MARCH 3 – APRIL 8
MARCH 17 – MAY 26
MAY 24 – JUNE 29
MAY 10 – JULY 8
MAY 23 – JUNE 30
TAKASHI MURAKAMI
PAUL PFEIFFER
APRIL 28 – JUNE 17
MARCH 17 – MAY 26
IMPRINT
Founder / Editor-In-Chief: Cordelia Noe Contributing Editor: Nadja Sayej Publisher: Christoph Noe Graphic Designer: Summer Tsui
Photographers: Peter Koloff, Edith Young, Kristof Vrancken Illustrations: Tug Rice, Summer Tsui Contributing Writers: Anneli Botz, Kathrin Rettig, Ricko Leung, Nadja Sayej Copy Editor: Simone Schultz For Advertising and Sponsorship Enquiries please contact: thegirls@theartgorgeous.com Special thanks to: Elinor Vanderburg, Melissa Chiu, Chomwan Weeraworawit, Vanessa Clairet, Pia Sääf, Kathy Grayson, Mama TOY, Eli and Tamar Arad, Madeline Feller, Kevin Poon, Allison Peck Printing: Paramount Printing Company Limited, Hong Kong
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TheArtGorgeous Magazine is a publication by TheArtGorgeous. TheArtGorgeous is a subsidary of The Ministry of Art Ltd.
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TheArtGorgeous. Issue 4, Spring/Summer 2018. © 2018, The Ministry of Art Ltd. All Rights Reserved. See the magazine online at www.theartgorgeous.com and www.theartgent.com. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is prohibited. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without permission from the publishers. The views expressed in TheArtGorgeous Magazine are those of the respective contributors, and are, not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. The magazine welcomes new contributors but can assume no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or any other material. Contact: TheArtGorgeous is published by The Ministry of Art Ltd., 340 Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Email: contact@theartgorgeous.com Subscription Email: thegirls@theartgorgeous.com
Scan or Visit: theartgorgeous.com @theartgorgeous
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ArtGorgeous
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ello Gorgeous,
EDITOR’S LETTER
March is a big month in the art world. With recharged batteries after a long winter, the art spring starts with the first round of major fairs while in the East we’ve just welcomed the Year of the Dog, to be precise: male, brown dog (but more on that later). Our featured artist Zoë Buckman installed her first major public art installation in early March. Champ, as it sits beaming over Sunset Boulevard in Los Angeles, has become a striking symbol of female empowerment. For this issue, Anneli Botz sat down with Buckman to discuss how she sees the world through the feminist lens. Nadja Sayej speaks to Sarah Andelman, founder and creative director of the legendary Parisian concept store Colette (that closed its doors last December), about the future of art and fashion. Andelman reveals why, after twenty years of redefining creativity and orchestrating some the most exciting partnerships across fashion, celebrity, brands and art, she has moved on. Since we’re all about collaborations, crossovers and collusions, it just made sense that we finally launched our very own award, to highlight and honour the past year’s peachy partnerships. The SuperGorgeous Awards are our new annual awards list celebrating the very best in creative collaborations, entertainment, celebrity and pop culture over the past twelve months. For the inaugural edition, we rounded up the most spectacular releases, celebrity moments, auction records, and internet-breaking art news, and left it to our readers to select the winners. And now, with the votes in and counted, we are thrilled to present our winners. Ever devoted to making the art world more fun and accessible, the beginning of the Year of the Dog inspired us to seek out the the best furry Insta accounts dedicated to charming, scenestealing art world dogs. From Wegman’s Weimaraner beauties to Swiss born photographer Lukas Wassmann and his hunting dog Gustl, all the way to socialite Pomeranian Bertram of The Hole Gallery, NYC (our March cover boy), these are the pups who brighten our Insta feeds. While we’re not about to make any ‘hotdog’ puns, food does feature in this issue: from Art Brussels to Design Miami, and currywurst to oysters, we pair art fairs with their culinary counterparts. Of course, what kind of a glossy would this be if we left out the standard beauty tips and tricks? We skipped right over the Kardashian/Jenner empire and went straight back to the art world masters for their insights. Did you know Renoir was already a huge advocate for sunscreen way back in the 1880s? We’re also drawn to the work of Edith Young, who’s creating palettes analysing the colours of art history – from Currin’s perfect summer blonde to the lushest reds in Renaissance portraits. In preparation for the upcoming art fair season, we got creative and conjured up a list of the most promising hacks to get you that coveted VIP status. And last but certainly not least, since this issue is about the blooming relationship between art and brands, who other than KAWS could we have invited to design this issue’s highly popular bumper stickers? We are super proud and honoured to have him share some of his signature works with us. On that note, we wish you a spectacular art season, and hope that you’ll continue to enjoy the lighter side of the art world. Thank you for being part of our art world squad.
Founder / Editor-in-Chief cordelia@theartgorgeous.com
#artgirlsdoitbetter 10
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Peter Koloff
Peter was born in Guatemala, raised in Los Angeles and now lives in Brooklyn. He is a videographer and a photographer whose career started at the Williams Morris Agency and now has taken him to work independently for brands such as Nike, Champion, Agnes B, Michael Costello and publications including Vogue China, L’Officiel Paris, Architectural Digest Mexico, Cultured Magazine. He has shot videos and photographed artists, models, and celebrities in New York and around the world.
Kathrin Rettig
Nadja Sayej is an arts and culture journalist who loves doing celebrity Q&As. She has written for Forbes, The Economist, The New York Times and more. Check out her new book, The Celebrity Interview Book.
KAWS
Multifaceted American artist KAWS is continuing in the tradition of Pop Art. His influential work crosses painting, sculpture and printmaking along with fashion, merchandise and toy production while drawing upon art history and popular culture. He has exhibited internationally in major museums and his most recent shows include solo show’s at Galerie Perrotin Tokyo and Hong Kong, at the Modern Art Museum, Fort Worth and Yuz Museum, Shanghai.
Anneli Botz
Tug Rice
Anneli Botz is a writer and curator, based in Berlin. She has an M.A. in Art History and Philosophy and focuses on cultural expression through contemporary art, fashion, and music. She writes for numerous publications such as Interview Magazine, Sleek Magazine or Amsterdam Berlin.
Tug Rice is an actor, writer, and illustrator based in New York City. He studied acting at Carnegie Mellon University and has played major roles in theaters across the United States. A self-taught artist, he works in watercolor and ink as well as digitally, and has collaborated most recently on projects with Vogue Poland, Rowing Blazers, Olof1982, and He Spoke Style. @tugrice
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Photo credit: Roe Ethridge, Galerie Perrotin, Harald Geil
CONTRIBUTORS
Born in Heidelberg, in the south of Germany, she studied law in Leiden, Vienna and New York. Since she was little, she was passionate about writing, art and fashion; so she opted to follow new paths by becoming a fashion journalist and a student of media communication. Currently, she is based in Berlin and works for different cultural and fashion magazines.
Nadja Sayej
The bright lights of spring .
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coloured glass Art installation by Camilla Richter from 23 03 until 28 04 2018 wonderful to wAnder Bikini Berlin
BIKINI BERLIN CONCEPT SHOPPING MALL Budapester Straße 38 – 50 10787 Berlin
Big things are happening not only in Hong Kong - from KAWS’ highly anticipated solo gig at Galerie Perrotin to Larry’s List’s Private Art Museum Conference and the stunning Harbour Arts Sculpture Park, curated by Tim Marlow and Fumio Nanjo - but also in Vienna: The Kunsthistorisches Museum has scored American film director Wes Anderson and his wife Juman Malouf to guest curate an exhibition from the museum’s rich collection. Equally impressive is that Austria’s prima-art-patron Heidi Horten has just made her extensive private art collection open to the public. In collaboration with The Leopold Museum, the exhibition, titled WOW, is on until end of July. Art and Sacher torte? Vienna, here we come! Done with that, you are ready to board to paradise: TheArtGorgeous is thrilled to be the official partner for a special art-themed cruise aboard the most luxurious cruise ship, the MS Europa 2, as it sails from Hong Kong to Singapore via the Philippines and Kota Kinabalu. For this cruise-de-luxe, which will also showcase the ship’s expansive art collection, we invited some of the most prominent experts of the Asian art scene on board to talk about artists to have on your watch list, the first Bangkok Triennial, and other latest happenings. With a fresh tan, it’s time to go naked: No, it’s not what you’re thinking of - we are talking about naked Hub, which has become the premium co-working brand in Asia Pacific. In the lead up to Hong Kong’s art week, naked Hub has invited fifteen creative nomads to produce onsite installations in their Hong Kong outpost - pretty awesome. If you ever need a hot desk in a hip neighbourhood, this is your place to go. Ready for Gallery Weekend in Berlin? You might already know the fun artsy places such the Wunderkammer of me Collector’s Room, Duve Gallery, Circle Culture and Société. But when your feet start to ache, recharge with a Radiator superfood juice at Daluma (and eventually add the currywurst at Curry 36 the next day for a proper re-tox). To rub shoulders with Berlin’s art world crowd and to get an idea of the art girls street-style, make a stop (or dip → rooftop pool) at SOHO House and add some summer wardrobe staples from The Store, Andreas Murkudis or the BIKINI mall. Relax in May and set your alarm clock to wake up for the Basel bash in early June. Mark the Sunday before the fairs start into your diaries and plan a visit of the yearly unofficial-official kick-off event: Gigi Kracht’s ‘Art in the Park’ at her Hotel Baur au Lac, where you can meet the art world’s elite mingling on the grass and warm up for the days to come. Cheers, The Girls PS: Don’t miss our weekly Art Girl’s Fax and befriend via TheArtGorgeous.com
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1999
marks the year KAWS created the first Companion
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USD people had to spent for a Companion in May 2017 at the MoMA store. The high traffic caused a breakdown of the online store’s website
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feet was the height of the Snoopy in front of the Uniqlo store in NYC celebrating their joint collection
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pounds is the weight of the famous silver MTV VMA Moonman trophy, which KAWS redesigned in 2013 for the MTV Music Awards
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USD had to be spent for KAWS Air Jordan shoes, which were only made available by lottery. Although there was a “for personal use only” clause, the shoes were resold for much more
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million and counting are following the artist’s newest projects via his Instagram account
808s
& Heartbreak is the name of a Kanye West album for which KAWS designed the cover
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pieces of the BFF plush were sold during the BFF exhibition in Bangkok, 2016. The 20-inch piece was sold next to BFFthemed tees, umbrellas and beach towels
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Dalmatians is one of the movies KAWS worked on while being with Disney as freelance illustrator is the birth year of Brian Donnelly, the real name behind KAWS, who first started his career as a graffiti artist in his hometown of New Jersey USD was the hammer price for a rare Seated Companion bronze sculpture sold in May 2017 at Phillips Auction
This issue comes with a set of KAWS stickers. If the stickers are gone already, someone else was quicker. Write us to contact@theartgorgeous.com. C
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Art Ba$ar
Female Force
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Classicon
Piega Mirror by Victoria Wilmotte via classicon.com
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Converse
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Tweety Bird Sneakers via yoox.com
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Lipslut
F*ck Hollywood Matte Liquid Lipstick
Gucci
Pink Heart & Arrow Broadway Bag via ssense.com
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Moschino
Teddy Bear Triangle Bra via yoox.com
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6 Nike
The Force Is Female Hoodie
Stance
Beauty and the Beast Socks
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Kreafunk aHead Headphones via yoox.com
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Henzel Studio
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Love Me x Lane Crawford
Woo by Juergen Teller Art Pillow
Slip Dress via lanecrawford.com
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Art Ba$ar
Birds and Bees
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SkinSins
The Dreamer Temporary Tattoo
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2
Aquazzura
De Gournay Love Tassel Flats
Gucci x Unskilled Worker
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Wool Cardigan via mytheresa.com
Moon Juice
Sex Dust Herbal Supplement
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Buly 1803
EAU SUPERFINE Floral Facial Lotion
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Bee Goddess Honeycomb Bracelet
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Normann Copenhagen Little Birds by Jan Christian Delfs via yoox.com
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Art Ba$ar
Muscle Beach
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1
Dior x Friedrich Kunath
Arnie
Photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe
Dior Lady Art Bag
3
5
Grey Area x friendswithyou
Hublot
Sang Bleu All Black Watch
Pool Toy
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7
M A C x Jeremy Scott LIP X 9: FUTURE EMOTIONS Lip Palette
Takashi Murakami Mr. Camo Plush Toy via perrotin.com
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Vilebrequin X Donald Sultan Swim Shorts
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Andrea Bergart Basketball Bags Limited Edition
neubau eyewear Sigmund & Carl Sunglasses
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FURRY ‛GRAMS These Dogs Rule the Art World According to the traditional Chinese calendar, 2018 is the Year of the Dog. The recent turn of the New Year has been duly celebrated on social media. Wishing others a ‘Happy Year of the Dog’ seems pretty fitting for 2018, since dogs have become the new Instagram icons. In fact, some picture-perfect pooches have amassed up to 3 million followers - a number most art world accounts or fashion bloggers could only dream of. The new stars on the art firmament, captured in front of some up-and-coming art talents, act like real muses and prove an infallible sense of style. Of course, we can’t help but fall in love, so let us introduce some of our favorite furry stars of the ’gram.
Writer KATHRIN RETTIG
Bertie Bert the Pom It just doesn’t get cuter than this heart-warming little pooch named Bertram, our cover boy. The adorable Pomeranian’s career teaches us an important lesson too: Bad times are always followed by better times. Born in May 2013, Bertram, who was adopted from a shelter in Oklahoma, now lives in New York City and works at The Hole, an art gallery on Manhattan’s Lower Eastside. Bertram has already curated artists like Ryan McGinley and Morgan Blair, and since no one can resist his charm, he’s a welcome guest at the world’s most important art fairs and events. With over 80,000 Instagram followers, he shares his newest discoveries alongside snaps of his daily life as a successful art dog. Furry fact: For the promise of a treat, Bertram gives kisses on command. @bertiebertthepom
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Wegman’s Weimaraners Some animals appear almost human – and that’s what many people think when looking at American artist William Wegman’s beautiful Weimaraners. It all started with Man Ray. Not the famous Dada artist, but William Wegman’s first Weimaraner. Wegman, who began his career in the early 70s, would dress his furry companion in elaborate costumes and photograph him in humanoid poses. Scrolling through this IG account, one gets the impression that the beautiful, charismatic creatures lead pretty busy lives. Even while playing tennis, working on a new book or just relaxing, Topper and co. look more elegant than most humans. Furry fact: All of Wegman’s Weimaraners are related, so his IG feed is actually a unique family album.
@williamwegman
Gustl vom Allgäuer Tor Lukas Wassmann is the hottest shot in fashion photography. Being selected by Le Book/ Connections as the top fashion photographer of 2017, we’re hardly surprised that his furry friend Gustl vom Allgäuer Tor looks absolutely picture-perfect in his shots. We heard a rumour that Wassman is into hunting too, so it makes sense that, being a hunting dog, Gustl is always at his side. Gustl has not only modeled editorials, but was also the star of the G-Star Raw campaign, eclipsing none other than Pharrell Willams. As core players in Berlin’s premier league of fashion, Gustl and Lukas are the coolest Swiss export in the business. Furry fact: Gustl holds the highest qualification for a hunting dog.
@lukas_wassmann
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Doug the Pug Pizza addict, mac n’ cheese lover, doughnut fan… Can you guess who we’re talking about? Yep, we’ve just described Doug The Pug – the coolest dog on Instagram, with a major food obsession. He is the self-crowned King of Pop Culture and has become an artwork himself. His followers can’t get enough of his terrific style and crazy, enviable life. He’s impressively open about his feelings, has no shame in showing off, and always has a perky slogan on the snout. Not only a professional model, Doug the Pug is a talented actor, with his own YouTube channel featuring music videos and funny clips. Furry fact: Doug’s version of the summer hit Despacito (‘Despugcito’) has over 1,6 million views. @itsdougthepug
Miss Pickle “Is that Pickle?” is a question you’ll probably hear at any of the hottest openings in NYC. Miss Pickle is not your average 4-year-old French Bulldog – she’s a Frenchie with a penchant for fine art. Miss Pickle follows her owner, art adviser Katie Howard, wherever she goes, and most of the time ends up stealing the show from well-known artists. But honestly, who could blame you for forgetting about the Kevin Beasley or Jonathan Horowitz on the wall when this lil’ cutie walks in? Although she’s friends with the ‘who’s who’ of the NYC art scene, we suspect Miss Pickle remains blissfully unaware of her stardom. Furry fact: It all started when owner Katie Howard snapped Pickle’s first photo in 2013 alongside a Korakrit Arunanondchai piece at Suzanne Geiss Gallery. @picklebeholding
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Jimmy the Bull Jimmy’s career started at the end of his owner’s love story. On his 30th birthday, Rafael Mantesso’s wife left him with nothing but his bull terrier and an empty all-white apartment. On the bare walls of his apartment, Mantesso began drawing miniature worlds and funny sketches around his furry best friend. Jimmy was portrayed dreaming of food, chilling on the couch sipping martinis, and practicing ballet. What started as a way of getting over the breakup became a well-known and celebrated art project. Mantesso and Jimmy have already published a book about their friendship, full of tongue-in-cheek illustrations and humorous scenes starring Jimmy in various roles. Furry fact: Rafael’s ex-wife named Jimmy after her favorite shoe designer, Jimmy Choo.
All images via Instagram
@rafaelmantesso
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The Dogist The 2000’s are the era of the blogger. Fashion blogging is now considered a full-time occupation, and has heralded the rise of the ‘Influencer.’ But there’s another Internet star ready to take over from the Fashion Blogger and Influencer: the Animal Blogger, or more specifically, ‘the Dog Blog.’ Photographer Elias Weiss Friedman, who works and publishes under the pseudonym The Dogist, already recognised this new trend back in 2013. Since then, he has travelled to over fifty cities in different countries, from Rome to L.A., to capture the beauty of dogs through portrait photography. His goal is not only to pay tribute to how damn cute they are, but also to raise awareness and inspire people to show a little more appreciation for man’s best friend. Furry fact: With over 3,1 million followers under his belt, we suggest Jeff Koons (300k) to apply for a IG takeover with his balloon dogs. @thedogist
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Menswear Dog Are you tired of standard fashion blogs? Still searching for the perfect men’s fashion blog? Then you absolutely should check out the IG account of ‘the most stylish dog in the world’ (as quoted from his bio). Dressed in an elegant Ermenegildo Zegna suit, nonchalantly posing for Mr Porter, or just enjoying winter fashion in a cozy wool coat, Bodhi the Shiba Inu can pull it all off. Looking like a cuter version of a ginger fox, Bodhi became a fashion icon on IG and gets booked by brands such as Salvatore Ferragamo, Asos.com and Brooks Brothers. Furry fact: It is rumoured that Bodhi and his owners, Yena Kim and David Fung, pull in USD 15,000 every month from his modeling gigs.
@mensweardog
Marnie the Dog Marnie the Shih Tzu is known for her incredibly long tongue (which is always hanging out the side of her adorable little mouth) and her trademark tilted head. Before owner Shirley Braha adopted Marnie from a shelter, Animal Control had found and rescued her from terrible neglect and bad health. Fortunately Marnie never lost her zest for life and now delights her followers with posts of her exciting daily life, like meeting Demi Moore or Jimmy Kimmel, posing for a still life, playing a few gigs, and dressing up for Halloween. A dog’s life can be very stressful, but it’s definitely full of happy moments! Furry fact: During her time at the shelter, people nicknamed her Stinky because of her smelly fur.
All images via Instagram
@marniethedog
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Career Coach
The First-Ever Insider's Guide to Art World Job Struggles
Auction House Specialist Mr. or Mrs. (Need To) Know It All. Matches the (ideal) trajectory from junior to senior specialist; brand of choice eventually evolves from Zara to Max Mara. Research shows a direct correlation between your chance of gainful employment and how high – and how frequently – your parents bid. Preview or sales periods will have you on the brink of exhaustion and insanity, but when it’s all over life returns to normal and you can expect to be home before sunset. Dependent on who bought what for how much. Extensive knowledge of fine art, jewellery, and mid-century furniture; an obscure specialisation, like shrunken heads or snuff bottles.
vs
Founder of an Art Startup
DESCRIPTION
Cultivated bachelor(ette) with an MBA and a degree in Art History.
OUTFIT
Distinctly anti-corporate: Jeans, hoodie and loafers. May feature a navy blazer for seeding rounds.
GETTING IN WORKING HOURS SALARY RECOMMENDED STUDIES
One of the advantages of founding a startup is that you get to skip this step altogether. Three hours at WeWork, four hours at a lunch meeting, one hour at the gym, then ‘networking’ drinks, sleep and repeat - of course interrupted by checking your IG follower number every 5 minutes. An unfamiliar concept until about three years in. A degree from the University of St. Gallen, Harvard or INSEAD might help to convince potential investors. However, a good idea, a head for business, and an impressive network will probably be enough to get you started.
You charm a new client into signing with you instead of a competitor.
CAREER HIGHLIGHT
Breaking even, and a later stage IPO.
Hearing the dreaded P-Word: ‘Passed.’
MOMENT OF TERROR
Your Bangladeshi Instagram ʻbot’ has been offline for more than 3 hours in a row.
COMMUTE
Fixed-gear bike Uber driver or Fixed-gear bike Uber back to fixed gear bike
WHAT THEY DON’T TELL YOU IN THE INTERVIEW…
Since you skipped the whole interview thing anyway, let us just tell you: we doubt there’s a need for another art world / social networking app or collector platform. #sorrynotsorry
Travel ranges from the MTR commute to the office to trips on your client’s private jet. If you have dreams of actually swinging the gavel, you probably shouldn’t have been in the interview anyway.
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edoC trA riaF Copenhagen
codeartfair.dk
Code Art Fair Aug. 30—Sep. 2 2018
Contemporary Art Fair
19 — 22 April 2018 Tour & Taxis
Join & ceLebrate Main partner
JUNGLE
When the Gloves Come Off ZoĂŤ Buckman Represents the Latest Wave of Female Empowerment p. 46
Gorgeous Jungle SuperGorgeous Awards p. 32 / The Future of Art x Fashion p. 40 / When the Gloves Come Off p. 46 31
SUPERGORGEOUS
AWARDS Winners Categories Best Art x Brand Collaboration Best Celebrity x Art Moment Most Entertaining Art World ’Grams Female Artist Who Has Made 2017 Her Year Most Viral Art Story
The SuperGorgeous Awards are a new annual top list celebrating the very best in creative collaborations between art and brands, entertainment, celebrity and pop culture over the past 12 months. We look back to spectacular releases, celebrity moments, auction records and art news that broke the internet in 2017. All shortlists were carefully selected by our team, while the final results were left up to you via online voting. Here’s how you voted in our SuperGorgeous Awards. 32
BEST ART X BRAND COLLABORATION
Winner
Jeff Koons x Louis Vuitton The collaboration between Jeff Koons x Louis Vuitton might be the most divisive art x brand collaboration, but it was definitely the most talked-about capsule of last year. Some call it a stroke of a genius, that Koons — in cooperation with one of the best-known museums of the world, the Louvre — printed masterpieces of all-time art history on leather goods from the iconic French luxury brand. While the original masters — from Rubens to Monet — are with no doubt still the “real deal,” Koons managed to make the art world more accessible with his remix in the ‘Masters’ capsule.
Editor’s Pick
Liu Bolin x Moncler Liu Bolin x Moncler locked in the editor’s pick, with the amazing, SS 2017 campaign shot by Annie Leibovitz for the Italian fashion house.The result is a chameleon-like camouflage, which eliminates any certainty of reality. Chinese artist Liu Bolin, master of the impossible and the invisible, is renowned for his illusionist settings in which his painted body is visible against a variety of backdrops.
“Annie is a very spiritual artist. Working with her is a pleasure for me. Every piece of her work comes from her unique inner world.” Liu Bolin
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BEST CELEBRITY X ART MOMENT
Winner
Jennifer Lawrence Painted by John Currin for Vogue We loved Jennifer Lawrence by John Currin for the 2017 anniversary cover of Vogue — and our audience did, too. For the prestigious 125th anniversary September issue, the actress served as the muse of an oil painting, wearing a patterned fur hat by Miu Miu. The special edition had four art covers in total; the three other covers were shot by Annie Leibovitz, Bruce Weber and the Dutch photographer duo Inez and Vinoodh, all depicting the actress.
Editor’s Pick
Swizz Beatz and No Commission With a fresh graduation from Harvard under his belt, hip-hop artist and producer Swizz Beatz seems unstoppable. When not rollerskating around his gigantic KAWS sculpture, he might be on stage at one of his ʻNo Commission’ outlets — an artist-only fair concept in collaboration with Bacardi, that has already stirred up several global cities with many more in the pipeline for this year. Apart from letting artists exhibit their own works without the help of a gallery (hence the title ʻNo Commission’), he has always rocked the stage during the events, and connects art and music in a visionary way.
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MOST ENTERTAINING ART WORLD ’GRAM
Winner
@failunfailunmefailun That’s right. This year, the SuperGorgeous Award for ʻMost Entertaining Art World ’Gram’ goes to @failunfailunmefailun, voted by you. Her re-mastered collages of iconic paintings cheer our daily IG scroll and obviously yours too. From Mona Lisa as part of a modern girls squad to Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring in Sharon Stones' Basic Instinct pose, the artist seems to never lack creativity and transforming art history into IG memes.
Editor’s Pick
@youngthugaspaintings Old masterpieces meet hip-hop artist Young Thug in the badass yet smartly observed feed of @youngthugaspaintings. While you certainly recognise some of the original artworks borrowed from the world’s leading museums, naughty Hajar Benjida, photography student from the Netherlands, pairs photographs of the rapper with iconic pieces of art. The account now has over 33,000 followers, with the uber-producer Metro Boomin being an early fan, and Thug himself boosting it with a re-tweet. Also, the cultivated art crowd seems to fall for it, so he nailed our editor’s pick.
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* Founded in St-Tropez in 1971
Fondé à St-Tropez en 1971*
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Winner
Genevieve Gaignard Far and away, the winning nominee for ʻFemale Artist Who Made 2017 Her Year’ is Genevieve Gaignard. Her artistic selfies, staged with incredible outfits in the context of American culture, let us feel her alter egos. Whether she poses in a swimsuit at Muscle Beach or quietly waits, loaded with groceries and watermelons, in front of a wedding shop. Thanks for taking us on incredible journeys exploring identity. And we are no less proud that she also graced the cover of our inaugural print mag last spring.
Editor’s Pick
Cao Fei Chinese multimedia artist Cao Fei adopted cutting-edge technology to interpret her very own version of mobility — lifting BMW’s famed art car series into the digital age. After a solo show at MoMA PS1 in 2016, the Guggenheim just announced last December that Cao Fei has been selected as one of five artists for a major commission debuting in May.
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Image courtesy:Louis Vuitton, Annie Leibovitz for Moncler, Vogue, Digital News Agency/The Television Consultancy Limited, Instagram, Genevieve Gaignard, Caofei Studio, Cathy Carver, Qinmin Arts
FEMALE ARTIST WHO HAS MADE 2017 HER YEAR
MOST VIRAL ART STORY
Winner
The Selfie Fame of the Infinity Rooms Our ʻMost Viral Art Story 2017’ winner, Kusama’s Infinity Rooms takes home the first-place trophy. No other artwork went more viral than the countless selfies taken in one of the polka-dot lady’s mirror-filled installations. The Hirshhorn Museum alone welcomed a record 475,000 visitors, and the hashtag #InfiniteKusama has reached around 100 million Twitter and Instagram accounts. The artist also opened her own museum in Japan last November, so there will always be a place on earth to take your very own Kusama snapshot.
“Yayoi Kusama, who, at this stage of her career, is a worldwide phenomenon, has the ability to inspire audiences of all ages with the power of her art.” Melissa Chiu, Director, Hirshhorn Museum
Editor’s Pick
Angelhaha – the Art-World-Only Airline Awarded the editor’s pick of the ʻMost Viral Art Story of 2017’ is the first art-world-only airline Angelhaha, that just started its operations at the end of last year with the maiden flight to Art Basel Miami. Qin Min is the brain behind this adventure, and with no doubt, her vision rocks. We are ready for boarding and can’t wait to fasten our seatbelt.
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SARAH ANDELMAN ON THE FUTURE OF ART X FASHION Fashion, art and design aficionados know Colette, the Parisian storefront that led the concept shop revolution over the past 20 years, before closing its doors last December. As the mastermind behind some of the most innovative collaborations in music, art and fashion, Colette’s founder and creative director Sarah Andelman dishes on her secrets, favourite artists, and business approach over a cup of tea in Paris. Writer NADJA SAYEJ
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Schouler and Mary Katrantzou. Being an art student has paid off — she first studied at Paris’ Ecole du Louvre in the 1990s before interning at Purple magazine, which gave her an edge, as well as an idea, of cool cred. It also helped her get creative, as A ndelma n has tea med up w it h lu x ur y bra nds for col laborat ions, like a line of scar ves by Brides De Gala Hermès and a series of candyf loss f lavoured macaroons by French bakery Ladurée. It wasn’t like any other department store, as Colette was known for its radical approach to retail. They had an in-store restaurant, guest celebrity appearances and even a mineral water bar. Needless to say, this was a trailblazing subculture venue and the Parisian store inspired concept and pop-up stores everywhere from Norway to Nigeria. It all started when Andelman and her mother first found the storefront space back in the 1990s. “Immediately, we had the vision of a retail project,” she said. “We’ve had many offers to open in London, in New York, and we said ‘no, there are already great shops there!’” It was a different time for Paris, in terms of retail. “We wanted to bring something fresh,” said Andelman. Some of t he bra nd col laborat ions i n t he shop i ncluded a sneaker collaboration with Nike to honour a local tennis player, a 1980s-inspired men’s shoe with Adidas and a Balenciaga takeover, where they brought a car into the shop last summer. Since Colette closed last year, Andelman has been busy working as a brand consultant for Just an Idea, a new consulting agency she created to support young designers and connect them with artists for collaborations. “I can’t mention the brands I work with, it’s a problem,” she says. “All I can say is this: I work with different brands and different collaborations, but it’s their project.” She takes a sip of her tea and adds, “I’m a consultant and a curator, it’s very new, I started last month.” “I don’t want to sound too mysterious but it’s not just me, it’s the agency’s wishes,” she adds. The waiter — a young model-like Parisian man in his 20s, who is wearing a white collared shirt, black pants and a branded apron — comes to take our order. Andelman orders a pot of green tea, I order cappuccino. We’re sitting in a second-story café above a patisserie run by one of Paris’ most famous pastry chefs, Sébastien Gaudard. I tell Andelman I hear that Gaudard has been billed “the Tom Ford of the pastry world,” she laughs.
Paris got a dose of pop by Californian artist Steven Harrington
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en minutes before our interview, Sarah Andelman is running out the door of the Sébastien Gaudard Café in Paris. After hollering after her, she stops and raises a finger like she is going to return. Five minutes later, she does (this time with the magazine’s photographer). Wearing a striped skirt and a red t-shirt that says ‘We Could All Be Lovers,’ Andelman is looking more like an art student than a retail mogul. “You have no idea how many times I nearly cancelled,” says Andelman with a heavy French accent. “I am only doing this interview because I think TheArtGorgeous is really cute.” Andelman, 42, has an eye for the up-and-coming. She is best known as the co-founder, buyer and former creative director of Colette, a Parisian shop she started with her mother Colette Roussaux in 1997. Pos sibly t he f i rst- e ver pop -up shop, C olet te bec a me t he ‘ it store’ in Paris, showcasing a mix of designer items and a r t book s, i nd ie maga zi nes a nd contempora r y a r t. T hei r slogan was ‘Style, Design, Art, Food,’ and they had in-store appearances with Drake, Rihanna and Pharrell Williams. It carried fashion brands from Yves Saint Laurent to Chanel and Jeremy Scott. In 2016, the store garnered €32 million in sales revenue; it’s also where Karl Lagerfeld shopped to find new stuff he couldn’t get anywhere else. But this past December, they closed their doors after 20 years. Rousseaux wanted to retire but didn’t want to sell it. Was it the first ever concept shop? Andelman smiles. “What was new was that we mixed fashion with beauty, books, restaurant and galleries,” she says. “We changed everything at Colette every week, like a magazine.” She is known for her keen eye for fashion, a love of lifestyle products and her knack for drawing some of the coolest brands, from edgy street labels to up-and-coming designers like Proenza
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clockwise Chanel x Colette pop-up in Paris Jeremyville and his unicorn drawing Leather heart sticker by Anya Hindmarch Sarah Andelman and Pharrell Williams, with their limitededition candy-floss flavoured macaroons by French bakery LadurĂŠe Colette collaborated with Vilhelm Parfumerie to create an exclusive limited-edition eau de parfum
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Balloon party for Colette’s 15th anniversary For Barbie’s 50th birthday, Lagerfeld re-imagined Barbie and Ken
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Sometimes you have an artist with a huge ego who won’t respect a brand’s history, so on both sides, we need to find a good energy.
ringtone. “I’m so sorry,” she says, answering the phone on video Skype. “Are you in London?” she says to her husband. “I’m with a journalist from Canada and a photographer.” Andelman holds the screen to us and we wave to him on Skype. She hangs up the phone and returns to the interview. “If I was doing an interview for Colette, I could never have done that,” says Andelman. “But with Just An Idea, I can do a FaceTime!” “This is my new life,” she says, putting her iPhone back in her pocket, letting out a big sigh. “It’s not that I don’t care, it’s just I don’t think it’ll change much.” She shrugs her shoulders and takes a sip of tea. Back on the brand talk, Andelman can sniff out if an artist and brand collaboration is authentic or not. “I work with instinct, it’s very personal,” she says. “If it’s a universal project, you need an artist with the same edge,” she says. “I try to do a nice partnership with two parts which need to understand and respect each other; sometimes you have an artist with a huge ego who won’t respect a brand’s history, so on both sides, we need to find a good energy.” She takes an example: Virgil Abloh, creative director of Off-White (as well as director of Kanye West’s creative agency Donda) and Japanese pop artist Takashi Marakami, who recently opened a collaborative art exhibition at Gagosian Gallery. “It’s incredible because it shows how far collaborations can go,” she said. “Abloh is not just a designer or an artist or an architect, he has a vision that allows him to do all kinds of crazy collabs.” Andelman has been quoted as having a life philosophy: “Follow your instincts and leave little room for compromise.” She doesn’t treat brands like anonymous corporations. “I treat them like missions and I try to connect them to food, music,
“I stopped doing all interviews,” she said. “I knew it was the end of Colette, so wanted to close with the right message, but this is a new chapter of my life.” Andelman loves her new role, despite the change. “I love it because it’s a continuation from Colette,” she said, “I’m meeting new people and choosing the right mix of talents.” One thing is different, however. “I can spend more time doing research and brainstorming, before I was rushing around,” she said. “It’s important for me to work with fashion houses, streetwear brands, the media, events, retail and pop-ups. It’s my biggest passion right now.” Just An Idea will focus on brand collaborations, as well as products. But more collaborations doesn’t necessarily mean more quality. “There are so many collaborations everywhere,” she says, rolling her eyes. “Some brands just do artist collaborations because it creates a nice buzz in the press but it doesn’t make sense. On the other side, you can think, ‘wow it’s so cool and unexpected but it makes sense,’ that’s the direction I try to go.” Just t hen, Andelman’s iPhone goes of f w it h a cuckoo bird
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Image credit: Colette
Blue farewell burgers in collaboration with French fast food chain Blend
of Madonna, Cate Blanchett and Susan Sarandon, on the walls of Colette. In was a radical change for a fashion shop to show art in the late 1990s in Paris. “Many galleries would not even sell a book by an artist because it was considered too commercial,” said Andelman. “Some artists made limited editions; others refuse to because they were too pure.” Things made a shif t around 2005, when Mura kami began collaborating with Louis Vuitton, then, other artist and brand collaborations followed (including Yayoi Kusama working with Vuitton). “Murakami has been the new way for artists to collaborate,” says Andelman. “If it helps to touch another community, why not? But if it’s too commercial or not right support for the artist, that’s different.” Andelman considers herself as a businessperson, but she is not your typical MBA graduate. She is a ref lection of the creatives she surrounds herself with. “My business philosophy is to connect people who wouldn’t meet each other if I wasn’t here to do the bridge,” she said. “That’s how I work — I bring people together from two different worlds.” She adds: “I always like being a little naïve and try to be fresh with people, there is no rules — everything is possible. That’s my approach.” “Helpi ng bra nds w it h g loba l st rateg y, pop-ups, d i f ferent missions, that’s the next thing,” says Andelman, finishing her second cup of tea, putting her coat on to run out the door again, this time to an artist’s studio. “This is my first interview of my new life,” she says. “I will remember it as that.”
art and design,” says Andelman, “which is what I did at Colette, but now, I don’t have the pressure of buying and refreshing the space every week, so I can focus on making a product as good as it can be.” But that comes with a different kind of pressure. “I hope the brand gets it, but it’s too early to tell,” she says. She takes her role as a curator of products very seriously. “I just came from New York City and spent two days walking through all the Chelsea galleries,” she says, “they’re not showing only major artists but are taking more risks on younger artists, too.” In some way, she considers herself a gallerist, but perhaps one of retail. “It’s what I’ve done since the beginning,” says Andelman. “I curated exhibitions every month; we didn’t represent artists long-term, that’s something else. We tried pushing artists, it was a new idea to have a gallery space inside a fashion shop, we had clients who liked it, but it took time. The art world eventually realized we were doing something serious and people finally caught on.” While Jeff Koons launched a jewelry line at Colette a few years back, that’s not to say it’s all blockbuster names. California comic artist Steven Harrington has shown his cactus and palm tree drawings here, while Amsterdam photographer Viviane Sassen showed a series of portraits with women’s faces covered in rainbow hues of paint. Andelman also curated a group show at Colette called The Art of Music, which focused on album art, while in 2015, The New Yorker magazine illustrator Christoph Niemann showed his cartoonish marker drawings. Even Karl Lagerfeld — who moonlights as a photographer — has shown his celebrity photos
Edward Bess x Colette launched the ʻBess Dressed’ Lipstick
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She Dwells with Beauty, 2016 Chain, vintage wedding dresses, boxing gloves
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WHEN THE GLOVES COME OFF The sky is turning dark blue over Sunset Boulevard, it’s just before dawn in Los Angeles, California. Beside the street, a glowing pair on neon ovaries clad in boxing gloves stands 43 feet tall, rotating like a giant informatory sign. Champ – as the installation is named – rises above the Hollywood scenery like a monumental representation of the latest wave of female empowerment; a creation by Zoë Buckman, artist, activist, mother. Writer ANNELI BOTZ Photography PETER KOLOFF
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Every time I threw a punch and it landed, I would say ‘Oh God, I am so sorry!’ Through that process, I started to generally reflect on the current war on women. So making artwork about fighting seemed like the natural connection here.
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I definitely consider myself a feminist. All the work I make is somehow to do with the female perspective or experience, whether it’s motherhood, reproductive rights, misogyny or marriage.
Bitches I like them, 2014 Embroidery on lingerie
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sculpture’s overly-realistic features play with notions of kitsch, like a modern-day vanitas taken from a Renaissance tomb. In this sense, becoming a mother not only fundamentally changed Buckman’s life itself, but also her artistic career. Motherhood propelled her to expand from the photographic medium to sculpture, then embroidery, and later, neon. “I just wanted to shackle these labels of being a photographer, I was simply creating and suddenly drawn to all these different disciplines. When I started to use plastination, marble and sculpture in my work, I felt something that I have never really felt in photography. It felt intuitively more natural.” But how big is a placenta anyway? Apparently, it’s huge. “People come over and see it, ‘cause it is in my studio now, as this plastinated organ, and they are always impressed by its size.” Buckman’s art piece is not only a reaction to her own birth experience, but also a confrontation with an organ that seems strangely stigmatised. “There is a certain
I want you to feel the pressure of perfection that women are thrust into, that we thrust ourselves into. Untitled 10, 2014 Handblown glass, sand and resin
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Looking at her work from an art history perspective, Buckman’s style, choice of medium, and the intensity with which she addresses topics of mother- and womanhood, bears a definite similarity to French-American sculptor Louise Bourgeois (1911-2010) – an artist, when mentioned, who Buckman declares as a great source of inspiration. Like Bourgeois, Buckman uses space-consuming installations, consisting of various textiles, of free-floating dresses, of objects hanging from the ceiling or rising on pedestals, while always returning to an overall symbolism for the female sex, and her challenges and struggles. But whereas Bourgeois was opposed to labeling herself a feminist artist – she said she was still too occupied with exploring her role as a women herself to become a role model for feminism – Zoë Buckman stands with strong determination. “I definitely consider myself a feminist. All the work I make is somehow to do with the female perspective or experience, whether it’s motherhood, reproductive rights, misogyny or marriage – it is all through that lens. I wonder, what does it mean to be a woman today, and what other problems do I hope my work will try and speak to; what issue do I want to provoke discussion about?”
hree weeks earlier, in a light-flooded studio apartment in Brooklyn, New York.
This is where Zoë Buckman (b.1985) lives and works. Originally from London, she moved to Los Angeles first, and then to New York after falling in love with an American who would become her husband, and with whom she has a daughter. Buckman, now a multimedia artist, activist and female rights advocate, started off studying photography. The shift within her artistic practice, towards different materials and a strong focus on feminism, came rather suddenly at a defining moment in her life. In 2011, Buckman gave birth to her daughter Cleo, but learned, right after the baby was born, that her placenta had begun to deteriorate – a condition that could have lead to the premature death of her child, had the baby not been born on that exact day. After this experience, the artist was immediately urged to create. A day after Cleo’s birth, Buckman took a photo of the placenta, using the only expression she felt comfortable with at the time. “I wanted to capture that specific moment, when this organ had started to deplete. Afterwards, I put the placenta in my freezer, as I was unsure what to do with it,” she recalls. After this somewhat traumatic post-birth experience, Buckman’s mind remained occupied with thoughts of her placenta and the negative potential its depletion could have brought upon her unborn child. “After I put it in the freezer, I could not stop thinking about death and how everything living perishes and everything dies.” The result was Present Life, a plastination of her placenta that now rests, in bright pink, rose and beige colours, in a marble framework. The
Buckman herself is a petite woman, beautiful and with even features, like she just popped out of a L’Oréal commercial. One could easily underestimate her ability to throw a punch, but the build-up and expression of physical strength have become a fundamental part of her life and work. A few years back, she took up boxing – an exercise that led to both personal growth and creative revelation. “I was training in this boxing gym downtown, four days a week and was really into it. I was working through a lot of my issues and traumas and was learning how to take up space for myself and defend it using my body. I even
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Image credit: Peter Koloff, Zoë Buckman
discomfort in confrontation with the placenta, especially for men, but also women. I tried to be really sensitive with women’s reactions to this particular body of work, as I know that the experience of becoming a mother is so triggering to many. There is a lot of trauma; women who try to have a baby and can’t, women who don’t want to have a baby and feel under threat. It is just a meaty issue in New York, and everywhere else.”
these are really highly, perfectly sewn, almost obsessively.’ I want you to feel the pressure of perfection that women are thrust into, that we thrust ourselves into. Whether it’s on our wedding day, whether in our marriage, or in life in general. This feeling of ‘I have to be chaste, and white and perfect,’ that’s what I wanted to bring across.”
learned to stop saying ‘sorry’ so much. Every time I threw a punch and it landed, I would say ‘Oh God, I am so sorry!’ Through that process, I started to generally reflect on the current war on women. So making artwork about fighting seemed like the natural connection here.” Boxing gloves have thus become a recurring motif within her creative practice, symbolising both personal and artistic growth. The first time she used them was in 2015, in a series called ‘Mostly It’s Just Uncomfortable,’ which was the artist’s response to the attack on Planned Parenthood in the United States. Using gynecological and boxing imagery and objects, Buckman wanted to point out the endangerment of a woman’s right to make choices concerning her own body. Then again, the boxing gloves became a substantial part of Let Her Rave, a reaction to John Keats’ poem Ode on Melancholy, which – despite being an admirer of his poetry – appalled Buckman. One line of the poem says: ‘Or if thy mistress some rich anger shows / Imprison her soft hand, and let her rave.’ As a response to the downplay of a woman’s emotionality and her objectification, Buckman created boxing gloves trimmed with vintage wedding dresses and hung them together from the ceiling of the exhibition space.
Back on Sunset Boulevard, Champ, Buckman’s oversized ovary, is making its relentless turns. The installation, which was funded by the Public Art Funds, is a powerful sign for life itself, for sexuality, empowerment and womanhood. It also stands for yet another development in Buckman’s work as a multi-media artists. While textiles have predominated a large part of her artistic practice, she has also, over the years, discovered a preference for working with neon. “I love using neon, it’s very powerful. As a strong light source, it instantly takes up a lot of room. It commands your eye; it draws you in. And you can also make a decision with neon based on the response you want to get. I can use really repellent, very harsh white neon that will almost push you away, or I can use a soft, warm white that creates this healing, beautiful experience. I also like that neon has this little self-life; a bit like my placenta. It is this thing that has its purpose and then it runs out. And when it runs out, it is dead. I love that. ”
Looking at them now, the white gloves appear delicately sewn, creating an urge within the viewer to touch them, to feel their smooth surface. They look like a clenched fist, hidden within the soft perfection of silky innocence. “I get these used wedding dresses and I cut them up and I pin them to the boxing gloves. Then I take them to this wedding dress seamstress. My sewing skills, they are fine, but I’m not a professional. With other pieces, I embroider everything by hand and strive for the personal touch, but in this case, I want you, as the spectator, to feel perfection when you see the gloves. You should be struck by their beauty and when you come closer you realise: ‘Oh wow,
Champ won’t be running out anytime soon, but will continue to shed its light over the L.A. sky for at least another year. A period that Buckman, a tireless advocate for conversation and gender equality, will use to engage a broader public. “I really want to use the piece as an opportunity to host discussions, performances and panels. After all, it is a piece in the public realm. So why not build on that and just start as many things as possible?”
Champ, 2018 Installation The Standard, Hollywood
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June 14 – 17, 2018 Photograph taken at Kunstmuseum Basel
STYLE
Beauty Touch-Up from Art History Renoir Was Already a Huge Advocate for Sunscreen Back in the 1880’s p. 56
Gorgeous Style Beauty Touch-Up from Art History p. 56 / Craig & Karl Deconstructed p. 64
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STYLE
BEAUTY TOUCH-UP FROM ART HISTORY While most of our daily inspiration for all things beauty and wellness comes from social media or online beauty gurus, we’ve found that there’s a whole lot of hands-on advice to be found from the Old Masters. We spent some time examining works by Renoir, Klimt and Condo, and realised that when it comes to beauty advice, they’ve got as much to offer as the most celebrated Hollywood dermatologist. Ditch your life coach and instead spend a few hours analysing the secrets of eternal youth, as revealed by the world’s creative masters. 56
Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Femme Ă l'ombrelle assise dans le jardin,1872
Snow White If a Renoir girl can teach us anything, it’s to never leave the house without sunscreen. We all know the evils of UV rays, so follow her example and escape the sun in style. Cover up your arms and legs, never venture into the sunshine, seek out shady spots, and apply very liberal amounts of sunscreen.
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Gustav Klimt, Adele Bloch-Bauer I,1907
Queen Of Brows This guy was all about highlighting and contouring long before beauty vloggers or the Kardashians caught on. Pay special attention the eyebrows (in fact, call your brow bar right this minute), and don’t shy away from the rouge. If you’re feeling adventurous, go full-Klimt with a choker, gold silk coat and a splash of Asiatika wallpaper in the background.
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Elizabeth Peyton, Ozzy 2, 2002
Hippie De Luxe This one’s a little easier. Raid your grandmother’s closet or trawl the nearest vintage shop (try vestiairecollective.com) for a hippie floral blouse. Alessandro Michele did us a solid by reviving all things floral, so it’s still a safe bet. If you’re brave enough to add some contrasting elements to your romantic look, consider getting a bold tattoo on your forearm (is that an octopus or tribal armband?) and you’re ready to rock the streets from London to Laos.
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George Condo, Smiling Woman, 2009
Sleek Mane Dye your hair an achingly beautiful shade of red or strawberry blonde. Straighten your mane beyond recognition to achieve that super sleek look and tie it all together in a neat ponytail. Choose your least appropriate shirt – the one with the plunging neckline your dad hates. Now for the tricky part: to achieve a flawless imitation, you’ll need to get rid of an eye. Don’t be put off by this challenge; instead think of inventive ways to achieve this look, like gluing an empty Tupperware or small paper cup over the superfluous eye. Colour it blue and vóila, you’ve got the look! Now the only thing missing is a ridiculously thin eyebrow, so we suggest just shaving yours off and redrawing it back on with a fine-tipped marker instead. Done!
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Kehinde Wiley, Shantavia Beale II, 2012
Adjust Your Crown Whether it’s Obama’s official portrait or large-scale renderings of major hip-hop and pop culture icons, the beauty of Wiley’s subjects lies in proper self-staging, and most of us could probably learn a thing or two. Start off by wearing your track pants (or joggers, excuse us) to run mundane errands, like picking up bagels on a Sunday morning, but add a healthy dose of exaggerated pride and uber attitude. Repeat the mantra ‘breasts out, belly in’ as you walk, and for best results maintain a stony look, refusing to smile or speak. For that extra bit of extra, clip in some hair extensions and rock a serious yet understated updo.
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Maja Djordjevic, I love Mickey, 2017
Ice Cream and Weights Now that the outsides taken care of – thanks to the likes of Klimt, Condo and Renoir – it’s time to focus on inner wellbeing, and who better than Maja Djordjevic to be our art world life coach? To release your inner goddess – your Venus 3.0 – you’ll need the following: pixels, daisies, ice cream, weights, and eventually, a banana. Then, divert your energy and chakras towards things that make you laugh, surround yourself with positive energy, and meditate on a very vivid mental image of Madonna’s biceps when doing your next set of curls at the gym.
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Image credits: Glossier; Benefit; Elizabeth Peyton and Burger Collection; Jess De Wahls; George Condo and Xavier Hufkens, Brussels; Kehinde Wiley. Photography: Jason Wyche, New York. Courtesy: Sean Kelly, New York; Maja Djordjevic; Leonhard Hurzlmeier; Buly 1803
Leonhard Hurzlmeier, Dentist Getting Ready, 2014
Floss It, Baby The formula for beauty á la Leonhard Hurzlmeier is easy: simplified geometric language meets the depiction of everyday tasks. Imagine a woman simultaneously doing the downward dog yoga pose and eating pasta or flossing her teeth. Once you’ve conjured this very specific image, abstract her shape into brightly-coloured Lego Duplo Bricks, and you’ve got it: beauty and grace according to Hurzlmeier. The key takeaway here is that the weirder you look, the more likely you are to qualify as a Hurzlmeier muse. Who knows, maybe #flossingforhurzlmeier or #eatingnoodlesforhurzlmeier will become a thing?
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Craig & Karl Deconstructed
Photo credit: Kristof Vrancken
This painting is called Battles. It‘s a simple visual metaphor for relationships of all kinds, whether love or friendship or family. We painted this piece on-site at C-mine in Genk, Belgium. It’s an amazing museum housed in a converted coal mine facility an hour outside Brussels.
Craig I have 6 pairs of white Converse in varying degrees of degradation. I try and tell myself to wear the cleaner ones but I invariably end up pulling on the most beaten-up - the dirtier the better.
Karl I am into striped t-shirts. I have a whole drawer full of various iterations – long sleeve and short sleeve, simple, two colour ones and crazy multicoloured ones. I’m a total sucker. Whenever I travel, one or two always make it into the suitcase. This one’s a classic number by Marimekko.
Craig & Karl (Craig Redman and Karl Maier) may live in different parts of the world – New York & London respectively – but they work together from afar as the genius duo behind bold work for brands ranging from LVMH and Tate Modern, to Apple and Google. Aside from notable commercial projects, the creative pair have exhibited their work around the world. Their signature style is a simple message executed in a thoughtful and often humorous way. 64
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CANDY
What Do Art Fairs Taste Like? From Currywurst to Oysters, We Pair Art Fairs with Their Culinary Counterparts p. 68
Gorgeous Candy What Do Art Fairs Taste Like? p. 68 / John Currin’s Blondest Blondes p. 76 / 15 Ways to Hack VIP Access into Any Art Fair p. 82 / The Very Honest Gallerist p. 88 67
CANDY
Art fairs are always a feast for the eyes, but the tastebuds are another story. It could be a delicious treat, then, if you’ve got the right dish in every city. For the jet-setting art scenester, make sure to stop in at the right restaurant before Instagramming the day away. Just as many of the art fairs this year are sure to please, here are some dishes to match each, and the chefs behind these signature treats. Writer NADJA SAYEJ Illustration SUMMER TSUI
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Art Basel Hong Kong runs March 27-31 in Hong Kong, and shows a wide variety of international fare − far more than just noodles. For an eclectic dish, saunter on over to French chef Pierre Gagnaire’s restaurant, Pierre, which is in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. It’s where he conjures up a dozen dishes that are graced with a fusion French flair. During this busy art fair, stop by the restaurant for their express lunch dish - grilled squid with venere black rice - or perhaps the duck foie gras soup with clams and tandoori spices. Now that‘s luxury. 69
While taking in the beauty at this year’s fair, which runs April 5-8, stop by the 1st arrondissement for a legendary dessert unlike any other. Parisian pastry chef Sébastien Gaudard is known locally as “the Tom Ford of the Parisian pastry world,” and for a good reason — try his designer chocolate éclair is, a stunning treat paired with a cocoa-sprinkled cappuccino to keep you buzzed. The tea room upstairs at the patisserie also serves a wide range of desserts that locals describe as Proustian. 70
This fair, which kicks off in Brussels from April 19-22, celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. While Brussels isn’t the sexiest city in Europe — it’s a little rough around the edges — it still has its hearty appeal. Brussels chef Laure Genonceaux, of the five-star restaurant Brinz‘l, recommends her signature dish: Pan-fried gambas, sweet potato mash, vegetable pickle and curried mayonnaise. It’s filling with a sprinkling of glam.
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This city-wide event where local galleries open new exhibitions explode over April 27-29 with talks, pop-up shows and art parties. Some might assume this event is the quintessential hot dog event of the art world, but we think it could better be described as the currywurst, a delicacy of Berlin. While most designer chefs will turn their noses up at this street food classic, you can get yours at Curry 36 in Mehringdamm, or visit the Currywurst Museum in the central district of Mitte, not far from the central hub of galleries at Potzdamer Platz. It’ll give you a taste of the famed Berliner Schnauze. 72
The quintessential collectible design fair returns from June 12-17 to showcase objects d’art, furniture, lighting and talks with design luminaries in Basel. Bavarian chef Peter Knogl brings a minimalistic touch to his dishes at the Cheval Blanc restaurant at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois Basel, where he has earned three Michelin stars. The chef recommends oysters with ponzu and green apple, or the smoked eel with beetroot, black garlic and wasabi. Get it while it’s hot.
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Images credits: Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, Sebastien Gaudard, Brinz`L, Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois Basel, Pinterest, Wikipedia
Code, which runs from August 30 to September 2 in Copenhagen, has cutting-edge art and fresh voices. But the foodie capital of Scandinavia has equally upscale dining choices. René Redzepi is a Danish-Macedonian chef with his own book (published by Phaidon) and offers one of his signature Nordic dishes called ‘the hen and the egg.’ It’s conceptual, to say the least; a wild duck egg with wild herbs on a bed of hand-picked hay. If you’re feeling adventurous, try it at his Noma restaurant, which is rated one of the best restaurants in the world.
Artissima, which runs from November 2-4 in Torino, blends old world Italy with new school artists. What better way to take in the culture than with Massimo Bottura, an Italian chef and art collector? He has a signature dish with an arty title: ‘Beautiful Psychedelic Veal, Not Flame-Grilled.’ Inspired by Damien Hirst‘s psychedelic spin painting series, this veal dish is presented on a big plate, splattered with colourful sauces, including arugula, beetroot, orange and red wine-reduced veal jus. Since Osteria Francescana rose to the top of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, a trip from Torino to Modena will be worth the ride. 75
John Currin‘s Blondes 20 x 30“, inkjet print, 2017
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JOHN CURRIN‘S BLONDEST BLONDES From Anish Kapoor’s Blackest Black to Yves Klein’s signature International Klein Blue, there is no doubt that art and colour are inseparable. Have you, for example, ever noticed the variation of eye colours in Vermeer’s portraits? Let us introduce someone who definitely has, and who’s more than a little obsessed with the relationship between art and hue. NYC-based artist and photographer Edith Young has scoured the art world to index the shades of Madame de Pompadour’s rouge, the ‘reds of the red caps in Renaisssance portraits,’ and the perfect shade of blonde used by John Currin, to create ‘typologies of color and text.’ These perfectly organised ‘painterly Pantones’ are soothing and very satisfying to look at. Artist EDITH YOUNG
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The Reds of the Red Caps in Renaissance Portraits 24 x 36“, inkjet print, 2016
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The Blush of Madame De Pompadour‘s Cheeks 20 x 30“, inkjet print, 2017
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The Blues of Hockney‘s Pools 24 x 36“, inkjet print, 2017
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www.philiphuang.nyc
15 WAYS TO HACK VIP ACCESS INTO ANY ART FAIR Illustration TUG RICE
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1
THE LOW EFFORT, HIGH REWARD PAYOFF
If a Rudolf Stingel already graces your wall, or you’ve recently snapped up an Urs Fischer for a record-breaking price on auction, then there’s nothing to do but sit back and wait for that VIP card to come to you. The only effort required? Checking your inbox at least once a week.
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3
TICK THE RIGHT BOXES
Three months before the fair, the VIP department sends you a digital questionnaire about your ‘collecting behaviour,’ along with a list of artists in their collections and a subtle hint that they know how and whose art you’ve been buying. This means you’re getting close: the fair has noticed that you might be worthy of that coveted piece of VIP plastic. Needless to say, you should take the time to craft insightful answers. Your answers should be honest, but if you’re looking to impress, there’s no shame in a quick Google search. Pro Tip: Don’t go bragging about your Mona Lisa (print?). These VIP teams see straight through the type who has to ‘hack’ their way into art fairs, so keep it subtle.
MAKE ART WORLD FRIENDS
In the name of sustainability, this is more of a long-term strategy that’ll not only get you into the VIP section for this year’s art fair but also, if all goes according to plan, on many A-lists in years to come. Now, don’t head straight for LinkedIn and add every ‘art world professional’ in a 500-mile radius; rather make the effort to research important faces before upcoming events. This will make it easier to spot an ‘Art World 100’ in the Campari-Bar at Kunsthalle Basel and slowly work your way into a network of art world friends. Plus, making actual friends who’ll be in the VIP section too will save you from looking like a loner as you hover around the canapé and bubbly trays.
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4
DOPPELGÄNGER
If you are lucky enough to bear a striking resemblance to a major celebrity (say, Karl Lagerfeld or Angela Merkel), use it to your advantage and play the doppelgänger-card. For full effect, find two cute guys hanging around and ask if they’re on board for a little fun pretending to be your bodyguards.
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SECURITY STAFF
If the above doesn’t quite work out, but you have a diploma in Krav Maga (or at least an aesthetic that suggests you might) or worked as a bouncer at Berghain one summer, perhaps you might consider a position as art fair security staff. There are distinct advantages: no pressure to purchase (or even pretend that you’re considering), and no wardrobe crises (who said a grey uniform isn’t chic?) The only disadvantage? You might have to get between collectors (fist) fighting over the same piece. However, if this does happen (and trust us, it’s more likely than you’d think), revert back to point 3 and cosy up to the victor.
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UNCOVERED
Remember the Art Basel 2012 edition, when the reenactment of Marina Abramovic and Ulay’s Imponderabilia performance of 1977 gained lots of attention at the booth of Sean Kelly Gallery? It featured two fully undressed performers at the booth entrance, which the audience had to pass through. Pretending to be a performer is the perfect cover. Or shall we say “Get uncovered”! Recommended only for the very courageous.
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LITTLE COMPANION
Arrange a meeting (you can choose to be the artist or the art advisor here) with a potential new collector on VIP day. After the meeting, sidle up a little closer and pretend to be their ‘little companion’ so you can fly under the radar as the +1 of this well-heeled cardholder.
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8
KIDS & CALDER
Wearing a pair of white gloves, approach the entrance carrying the paper mobile craft your five-year-old made at kindergarten last month as if it were baby Jesus himself. Tell the security staff that you’re there on urgent business to deliver a Calder to the fair but the dealer`s mobile phone is off. In a self-important tone, mumble that for insurance reasons and also because this is ‘very serious business,’ it would be much appreciated if you could gain access quickly and without any fuss.
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DIY
Not that we’re in the business of giving illegal advice, but you might want to have a quick peek on a free vector site, just to see if the VIP invitation template is available (out of curiosity of course). If it is? Well, what you do or don’t do with it is up to you, but a word of caution: if you plan to do a bit of copy/pasting, don’t use the barcode on the back of a box of frozen fish fingers, if you know what we mean.
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PICK UP LINES AT THE PICKUP DESK
Usually, it’s young art students who are in charge of manning the VIP desks. A few choice lines can work wonders to impress, and without much effort, you could soon have your very own VIP pass. You could try the classics like ‘Do you have a map of the floor plan? I’m getting lost in your eyes,’ get creative with, ‘I thought the works of art are supposed to be inside the fair?’ Or go very arty: ‘If I told you you remind me of Botticelli’s Venus, would you join me for a Happy Meal?’ Ideally, you’ll snag that VIP pass and a hot date.
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REGIONAL QUOTA
The global VIP ticket distribution works a little like the admission to the Olympic Games: if you are Swiss, American, or British it’s not easy. If you are applying from underrepresented places such as St. Kitts or Lhasa, it’s a whole different game. Would the fair not want to have a collector from Vatican City?
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THE MEDICAL EMERGENCY
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If you have a family member in the medical profession, ‘borrow’ a few serious-looking pieces of equipment and don the white coat. When the time comes, rush through the entrance claiming that you’ve been called in by So-and-So Gallery because a client has slipped in Ai Weiwei’s Sunflower Seeds and broken their ankle. Once you’re in, stash the medical equipment, ditch the white coat to reveal your well-curated VIP outfit, and blend right in as if nothing happened.
TINDERELLA
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Every VIP cardholder is offered a +1 invitation, which often goes unused. Why not match would-be VIPs with the holders of these coveted invitations in a fun version of ‘Art Fair Tinder’? Try establishing an unofficial code of conduct, where those with an unused +1 and those who really, really want to be a +1 meet in front of the TASCHEN bookstore on the First Choice or VIP day. The VIPwannabe makes themselves easy to identify by carrying a box of Mon Chéri pralines (a red nose would be too silly, a red rose too much of an effort), and the +1 invitation holder seeks them out and escorts them into the fair. It’ll be the art world version of Tinder x Charity, and who knows what kind of romance might develop from such creative pragmatism.
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SKIP IT This one is more of a mental hack and involves getting over the ‘fake it ‘til you make it’ mentality. Once you’ve made it into the VIP crowd, you’ll realise that it’s not all it’s cracked up to be, nor is it as glamorous as you might have imagined. Save the money and energy you would have spent getting to the fair earlier for VIP day, and use it to buy an artwork that’ll bring you joy long after VIP days have come and gone.
ROMANCE
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Carry a bouquet of at least 50 red roses, give one of them to a female security staff member and whisper conspiratorially in her ear that you’re about to propose to your pregnant girlfriend, who just happens to be working on a gallery booth inside.
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THE VERY
HONEST GALLERIST
Matt Carey-Williams, Director, Blain | Southern London and Berlin
RuPaul. Or the Queen of England. Or the Queen of England whilst being advised by RuPaul. In matching outfits. Massive - and I mean MASSIVE - discount coming their way.
1. Who would you love to sell an artwork to?
2. Describe your gallery in one sentence for an art world newbie?
“Life is short, art is long.” John Ringling
3. Most gorgeous artist in your gallery programme? Oooh, this is a tough one. You wouldn’t kick a handsome fillet of beef like Jonas Burgert out of bed for eating plätzchen now, would you? Mat Collishaw is a good-looking devil, but he’s also blessed with a deep, moody, muscular, manly, carburettor-about-to-explode, thirty-marlboro-reds-a-day, bass-tenor voice that is pure porn. Well, porn for radio, I guess. But our most gorgeous artist just has to be Francesco Clemente. Those eyes! Sigh. Little Social on Pollen Street in Mayfair, London. Not 60 seconds’ walk from the gallery. Divine food.
4. Best lunch spot for a client meeting?
Jake & Dinos Chapman, Life and Death Vest III, 2017, bronze, 45 by 41 by 43 cm. Price: contact me.
5. What drinks are you serving at an Glasses of champagne and bottles of beer. It would be a exhibition opening?
lot more fun if it were the other way round. Except horribly expensive and we’d all get terribly, terribly drunk.
My wedding.
6. The coolest event you’ve ever hosted? 7.What are your interns’ most hated/loved jobs?
They love working on research projects, especially those concerning our artists. They hate making tea, so we don’t ask them to do it. They didn’t spend several years studying and pay thousands for it, to just boil the kettle for jet-lagged galleristas….Those Martinis on the other hand, won’t shake themselves, darling.
8. What is the dress code for the staff?
9. Does having hot staff help sales? Just look at who you’re talking to! Need I say more? Only kidding. Like some of my colleagues, if you’ve still got all your teeth and most of your hair, you’ll do just fine.
10. Most used apps or websites used daily by the gallery? Mat Collishaw, GASCONADES (Entrepreneur), 2017, oil on canvas, concrete, jesmonite
Instagram, our website and Wechat (QR right. SCAN IT BABY!! )
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Image courtesy: Blain | Southern
We don’t have one. Come to work dressed like you mean business. Suit? Grand. Dress? Smashing. Rubber chicken outfit? Oh hey girl!
C O L LABO O F THE YE AR 20 1 7 JÄGERMEISTER N TA C T S O C E IN L N 65 M IO . O
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