Atw 010716 by Aspen Times Weekly

UNTUCKED MEXICO ON MY MIND 13 || LIBATIONS REASONS TO CELEBRATE IN 2016 18 JANUARY 7 - 13, 2016 • ASPENTIMES.COM/WEEKLY

CULTURE/CHARACTERS/COMMENTARY

aspen après

DOES

FIND IT INSIDE

GEAR | PAGE 12

WELCOME MAT

INSIDE this EDITION VOLUME 4 F ISSUE NUMBER 56

DEPARTMENTS

General manager Samantha Johnston Editor Jeanne McGovern

04 THE WEEKLY CONVERSATION

Subscriptions Dottie Wolcott

10 LEGENDS & LEGACIES

Circulation Maria Wimmer

14 WINEINK 16 FOOD MATTERS 18

Art Director Afton Groepper

LIBATIONS

Publication Designers Ashley Detmering & Madelyn LyBarger

28 VOYAGES

Production Manager Evan Gibbard

30 MOUNTAIN MAYHEM 33 LOCAL CALENDAR

Arts editor Andrew Travers

38 CROSSWORD

Contributing Writers Amiee White Beazley Amanda Rae Busch John Colson Kelly J. Hayes Barbara Platts Stephen Regenold May Selby Tim Willoughby High Country News Aspen Historical Society

39 CLOSING ENCOUNTERS

Sales Ashton Hewitt Amy Laha David Laughren Max Vadnais Louise Walker Tim Kurnos

23 COVER STORY Skiing — the actual sport — is, of course, a major draw of Aspen/Snowmass of winter. But

ON THE COVER

rivaling the schussing on the slopes may well be the sipping at the bottom come après ski.

photo by Jeremy Wallace

Read the eEdition http://issuu.com/theaspentimes Classified Advertising (970) 925-9937

This week, we take a tour of the hotspots for enjoying all that our resort town has to offer.

J A N U A R Y

T H R O U G H

JUAN FELIPE HERRERA

A P R I L

A S P E N

C O L O R A D O

US Poet Laureate

Best Book of the Year, Time Magazine

Notes on the Assemblage

Fun Home

GERALDINE BROOKS

TONY HORWITZ

S E A S O N

1 9

ADAM JOHNSON

BETH MALONE

ALISON BECHDEL

BOX OFFICE purchase passes + tickets aspenshowtix.com 970 920 5770

ALL EVENTS 6PM doors at 5:30PM paepcke auditorium

Pulitzer Prize for Fiction

Star of Tony Award-Winning Musical, Fun Home

Fortune Smiles

SANDRA CISNEROS

SEASON PRESENTING SPONSORS BETH AND JOSH MONDRY

HELEN AND WALLY OBERMEYER

Pulitzer Prize for Fiction

Pulitzer Prize for National Reporting

Pioneering Latina Author

The Secret Chord

Midnight Rising

A House of My Own

A S P E N T I M E S W E E K LY

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ASPEN TIMES

THE THRIFT SHOP OF ASPEN

ASPEN PUBLIC RADIO

ISBERIAN RUG COMPANY

ASPEN PEAK

FOUR MOUNTAIN SPORTS

ASPEN SNOWMASS

ASPEN ALPS

THE CITY OF ASPEN

FRIAS PROPERTIES

LES DAMES D’ASPEN

Mountain Valley luxury

681 Mountain Laurel Drive, Aspen | $9,250,000 Enjoy captivating views at every turn in this elegant east Aspen residence with the finest detail and craftsmanship. An open floor plan embraces entertaining with comfort and style. Where serenity, sun and abundant lifestyle reign. Incredible East End location in Mountain Valley with unsurpassed views of Independence Pass, Aspen Mtn, Peaks. All day sun make this one of the best Homes on the market in Aspen. Residence has six-bedrooms, six-full baths, four-half baths, vaulted ceilings with beautiful hand carved wooden beams, chefs kitchen with open floor plan for great entertaining, beautiful master suite with magnificent views, Blue Bahia stone in master bath, all en suite guest rooms, three gas fireplaces, wine room, wire brushed white oak hardwood floors. 750 sq. ft. Garage. Five minute drive to the gondola. MLS# 141734

Experience is the Difference

MICHAEL STEINER

Broker Associate 970.920.7387 michael@masonmorse.com

Coldwell Banker Mason Morse Aspen | 514 E. Hyman Avenue | 970.925.7000 | Find more at www.masonmorse.com Exclusive Member for Aspen and Snowmass, CO

©2015 Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. A Realogy Company. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each office is Independently Owned and Operated. Coldwell Banker®, the Coldwell Banker Logo, Coldwell Banker Previews International®, the Previews International Logo, and “Dedicated to Luxury Real EstateSM” are registered and unregistered service marks to Coldwell Banker LLC.

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

THE WEEKLY CONVERSATION

by ANDREW TRAVERS

THEATER & MUSIC THE LONG-AWAITED and slightly delayed re-opening of the historic Wheeler Opera House is upon us. The theater, which underwent a renovation of its lobby and second floor bar this fall, and had its December unveiling put off by structural complications, opens its doors on Friday, Jan. 8 for Charles Ross’ “One Man Star Wars Trilogy.” For the past 15 years, Ross has been touring his one-man show running through “Star Wars,” “The Empire Strikes Back” and “Return of the Jedi” in about an hour — he plays all the characters, sings the music, does the sound effects for the ships and the battles. Whether you’re in the midst of “Star Wars” fever from “The Force Awakens” or you want to bone up on the original trilogy before seeing the new one, this should be an entertaining way to re-open the Wheeler. Tickets are $20 and available at the Wheeler box office and www.aspenshowtix.com The Wheeler weekend continues on Sunday, Jan. 10, when the theater hosts Grammy-nominated singer-songwriter Seth Glier for a free community concert. The 27-year-old’s fourth album, “If I Could Change One Thing” marked a bold departure from his previous, more acoustic recordings toward a fuller pop presentation. The album includes a gorgeous duet with “American Idol” contestant Crystal Bowerso and contributions from Pat Matera (Katy Perry) and Daniel Rhine (Sara Bareilles). Read more about “One Man Star Wars Trilogy” and Seth Glier in the Jan. 8 Weekend edition of The Aspen Times.

Actor Charles Ross’ “One Man Star Wars Trilogy” comes to the Wheeler Opera House on Friday, Jan. 8.

CURRENTEVENTS LITERATURE

Reggae icons The Wailers will return to Belly Up Aspen on Sunday, Jan. 10.

Juan Felipe Herrera opens the 2016 Winter Words series with a talk and reading on Jan. 12 at Paepcke Auditorium.

THE WINTER WORDS lineup of literary luminaries opens on Jan. 12 with U.S. Poet Laureate Juan Felipe Herrera reading at Paepcke Auditorium. Herrera is the first Latino to hold the post of U.S. poet laureate, whose more than two dozen books include poetry collections “Notes on the Assemblage,” “Senegal Taxi” and “Half of the World in Light,” the novel-in-verse “Crashbomblove” and children’s books such as “SkateFate” and “Calling the Doves.” The talk is scheduled to begin at 6 p.m. Tickets are $20, available at the Wheeler Opera House box office and www.aspenshowtix.com.

POPULAR MUSIC THE LEGENDARY standard bearers of reggae, The Wailers, return to Belly Up on Sunday, Jan. 10. Bob Marley’s bandmates have played to an estimated 24 million people across the globe, performing an average of 200 dates a year. The anchor of the band is Aston “Family Man” Barrett, who in addition to being Marley’s lieutenant and co-producer, played on countless reggae hits throughout the 1970s. He leads a line-up combining old school know-how with lead vocals from one of Jamaica’s most exciting new singers. The show is scheduled to start at 9 p.m. with Mike Love opening. Tickets are $28-$45, available at the Belly Up box office and www.bellyupaspen.com.

COMPLETE LOCAL LISTINGS ON PAGE 33 4

A S P E N T I M E S W E E K LY

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COURTESY PHOTOS

SKI-IN/SKI-OUT ASPEN HIGHLANDS ASPEN

Experience privacy and convenience in this luxury Five Trees ski-in/ski-out estate quality home. With inviting views of Thunderbowl, this furnished property features a fabulous chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchen, six bedrooms plus an office and library, a fully-equipped gym and extensive entertaining spaces all accented with handcrafted details and finishes. Located on over an acre and a half and beautifully landscaped in one of Aspenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true ski-in/ski-out neighborhoods with adjoining dedicated private ski lift and trails. This warm and engaging residence is the perfect gathering place for family and friends. Walking distance to the Aspen school campus, the Aspen Recreation Center and the community theatre, and just a five minute drive to the airport, Maroon Creek Club and downtown Aspen. $15,350,000 - Now $13,950,000 MLS#: 139319 Carol Hood Peterson 970.920.7385 | carol@masonmorse.com

NEW CONSTRUCTION HALF A MILE FROM THE GONDOLA ASPEN

Located just half a mile from the center of Aspen sits a brand new home designed by David Johnston Architects. The three-level residence is 5,903 square feet and offers an open floor plan. Enjoy views toward Independence Pass and Aspen Mountain from the master suite, guest master suite and the office/ sitting room and cantilevered outdoor deck. The lower level features two additional bedroom suites, a family room, office or playroom and a gym. $6,399,000 MLS#: 141196 Carrie Wells 970.920.7375 | carrie@carriewells.com

thesource

Find more at

www.masonmorse.com

TW/masonmorse

LN/Coldwell Banker Mason Morse

YT/CBMasonMorse

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

THE WEEKLY CONVERSATION

VOX POP What’s the best thing to do after a long day of skiing/snowboarding? MOLLY HEMLER CARBONDALE

“A yummy restorative yoga class and dinner at Matsu.”

Your BEST FRIEND is waiting for YOU! MOLLIE RICE A SPEN

MISSY

Missy is a 2-year-old Cattle Dog/Chow mix who came to us with her pups (all adopted) through a wonderful rescue organization in New Mexico. She is timid with new people but is a very sweet, lovable dog.

BRANDI, A SPECIAL NEEDS DOG

CHICKEN

Gentle, 10-year-old, retired sled dog who gets along well with other dogs. She used to be shy with people, but has really come out of her shell. She loves to go on walks with volunteers. Apparently abandoned on Highway 82 + Brush Creek Road late April, 2015. Beautiful 6-year-old German Shepherd. Very friendly with people but not good with other dogs. We haven’t advertised her because she has cancer...but maybe, just maybe, there is someone who would be willing to give her a home. Call for more details.

NATTY

Beautiful, sweet, long-haired, 7-yearold cat who came to the shelter as a stray in April 2013. A little independent, Natty gets along well with people and most cats, but is not enthusiastic about dogs.

NORMAN

One-year-old Border Collie/Great Pyrenees mix with a beautiful goldencolored coat and mesmerizing amber eyes. Gets along well with everyone. Will require a steady mixture of exercise, discipline and affection in order to balance his overwhelming energy.

A S P E N T I M E S W E E K LY

Agile, athletic, enthusiastic, threeyear-old Australian Cattle Dog/Pit Bull mix who gets along great with people, including kids, but can be aggressive with certain other dogs. She will blossom in an active, knowledgeable, responsible home. Fun + enthusiastic!

Sweet, sensitive, 7-year-old, domestic short-tabby. Came to shelter due to peeing outside litter box. Will do best in a quiet household that will set her up for success so that she will be happy + comfortable and pee in her box.

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“Hot tub. Wine. Deep-tissue massage.”

STILL only $40 after 12 years! Available at the Aspen Animal Shelter, Aspen Animal Hospital, ANB Bank, Explore Booksellers, Rocky Mountain Pet Shop, RJ Paddywacks and Salon Tullio Basalt—and at dogsaspen.com.

CLEO

Beautiful, friendly, soft-spoken 12.5-year-old Husky mix female. She is a retired sled dog looking for a loving home. She is very outgoing with people. What a cute face she has.

Aspen/Pitkin Animal Shelter

“Take a nice hot bath. ... That’s it!”

DINI

SAM

Very cute, snuggly, strong, energetic, 7-year-old Pit Bull mix. Looks like an oversized Boston Terrier. Incredibly alert + very smart. Great with all people, including children, but best as an only pet. Not great with many other dogs although sometimes likes larger males.

TIMBER

Cosmo and Chloe are beautiful seventeenyear-old Tabby cats who were released to the shelter as a lifelong pair and we would like to keep them together. Sweet kitties! Chloe is the more outgoing of the two. Cosmo loves to hang out in his bed but ventures out often for treats. These cats are low-maintenance and loving.

Sleek, athletic, 7-year-old sled dog. Great with people and other dogs. Not good off-leash so needs a knowledgeable, responsible home. Another really nice dog!

SPENCER

Soft-spoken, sleek, friendly, 12.5-year old Husky mix who gets along well with people and other dogs. She is a retired sled dog who deserves a comfortable, loving home.

COSMO AND CHLOE

OPEN 7am-6pm EVERY DAY 970.544.0206

PETER

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Brian Hazen, CRS

International President Premier Award vice president/broker associate 970.379.1270 cell | 970.920.7395 direct brian@brianhazen.com | www.brianhazen.com The area’s best-informed, most connected guide to both real estate and local life.

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

Saving a life can change yours. Foster Homes Needed!

LUCKY DAY ANIMAL RESCUE OF COLORADO

www.luckydayrescue.org 970-618-3662

Shop

Volunteer

Make a huge impact on area families in need simply by donating, shopping or volunteering at our ReStore. (If you’re donating, we make it easy with our free pick-up service.) It’s a win-win for everyone involved.

HabitatRoaringFork.org

HAPPY NEW YEAR from our hearth to yours

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A S P E N T I M E S W E E K LY

Janu ar y 7 - Janu ar y 13, 20 16

with JOHN COLSON

As polar ice melts, there go our favorite foods AS THE MILLENNIALS like to put it, “OMG!” Over the weekend I got a jolt of climate-change reality, and it was not a comfortable experience. I just read, on the EcoWatch website (ecowatch.com), that among the types of food threatened with extinction due to global warming is the avocado. Also threatened are the lesssweet, crispier types of apples, along with coffee, beer, peanut butter and chocolate, according to the website. There are other food types listed on the website as being threatened in one way or another by global warming, but in that group alone I find ingredients needed for four foods that are critical to my continued survival on this planet — guacamole; PB&J sandwiches; crisp and slightly sour apples and the applesauce that comes from them; and the darkest of dark chocolate. Beer, interestingly enough, doesn’t cause me great concern, as I’m only occasional consumer, although I have to admit that the reason beer is threatened (shortage of clean, fresh water for brewing) is troublesome in many other ways than just limiting the output of beer. But if beer were to go away I wouldn’t weep, though I know many who would. Now, Scotch whisky, on the other hand, is an entirely different matter. If climate change ever threatens the global supply of barley, and thereby the production of my favorite Scotch, I might get a little upset. What got me thinking about all this was an emailed link from Carbondale Trustee John Hoffmann to the EcoWatch website and a video on the site showing 25 years of changes in the Arctic polar ice cap, from 1987 through early November 2014. It’s a remarkable stop-action video, assembled from images on the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), showing that as recently as a quarter of a century ago there was still a lot of what was called “old ice” throughout the arctic region. Another term for it is “permanent ice,” referring to ice floes that are older than nine years and were once considered a key part of the permanent ecology of the arctic environment. In the video clip, permanent ice is white, seasonal ice (meaning ice that forms over the winter but disappears in the summer) is blue, and in 1987 there still was a lot of white in evidence, serving as the foundation of an ecosystem that developed over millennia. But the white ice in the clip starts to disappear over the years, with the most dramatic changes noticeable after 2005. By 2014, the white stuff had diminished to a thin strip in the Beaufort Sea that borders

Canada’s northern network of islands and shoreline. And you don’t have to simply rely on EcoWatch for this information. The latest National Geographic (January, 2016) has a story about the same phenomenon, as studied by a team of scientists who regularly spend months on the ice sheet to gather data. “Since satellites began regularly measuring Arctic sea ice in 1979,” the article states, “it has declined sharply in extent and thickness.” As the ice thins, it loses its ability to reflect sunlight back into space, thereby increasing the pace of global warming. When the ice disappears, the ocean does what it does best, which is absorb all that heat that used to be reflected by the ice, thereby deepening the effects of global warming everywhere. Getting the picture? The evidence is mounting that we human beings are making global warming worse than it otherwise would be, because the geologic record has shown that these kinds of climactic changes historically have taken a lot longer than what we’re observing today. Elsewhere in the same issue of National Geo, I should point out, is a story about rubber trees, and how they are becoming a monoculture of profit in growing parts of the developing world, particularly in the erstwhile jungles of Southeast Asia, displacing existing native species as everyone from governments down to the peasant farmers grasp desperately for the riches offered by rubber production. But rubber trees don’t do well when planted uniformly and close together, scientists say. Never mind the eradication of some of the most diverse plant and animal life in the regions where this is happening; the density of rubber-tree plantations makes the trees vulnerable to disease and pests that could wipe them out. If that happened, it could leave scars on the face of the planet where, as global warming worsens, we could easily find that nothing is able to grow in what once was a thriving jungle, which would increase the already rapidly expanding desertification of large parts of the Earth’s surface. The lesson to be learned from this rubbertainted tale is this — we haven’t learned a damned thing from our depredations of the planet’s ecosphere over the past couple of centuries, because we’re still pulling the same old stunts. And as the reality of climate-change comes home to roost, the loss of our favorite foods may be the least of our worries.

HIT&RUN

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THE WEEKLY CONVERSATION

jbcolson51@gmail.com

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CALL 970-510-6088 LAURA GEE, Managing Broker An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Each office independently owned and operated. This is not intended to solicit property already listed. A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

LEGENDS & LEGACIES

FROM the VAULT

by TIM WILLOUGHBY

The walk between the Thrift Shop and Willoughby’s Cowenhoven home was swift, even in snow.

BE HELPFUL BE THRIFTY One of Aspen’s longest running businesses, the Thrift

Shop, opened in 1950 with the motto “Be helpful-be thrifty.” Over the years it has raised scads of money for the hospital and other local non profits while offering bargain prices for all kinds of merchandise. I found my most treasured childhood object there.

The idea for the shop first germinated in 1948 when Florence Glidden was president of the PTA. The school needed playground equipment and the idea of a thrift shop was proposed to raise the funds. The school was not the only institution that needed funds. Aspen’s aging Citizens Hospital came up short of money in every category of need. A core of volunteers got the ball rolling: Bob Marsh, Tukey Jones, Kay Reid, Kate Blakely, Georgia Jones, and Bea Shaw. Dorothy Shaw arranged for them to use an abandoned building that had formerly housed an assay office on Galena Street, across the street from St. Mary’s rectory. The store was an immediate success. The all-volunteer staff raised nearly $17,000 the first year in today’s dollars. In 1951, Walter Paepcke’s Aspen Company agreed to give the store free rent for a space in the Prince Albert Building. Volunteers cleaned and

A S P E N T I M E S W E E K LY

painted the space and installed a heat stove. To succeed, a thrift store requires diverse and plentiful merchandise. Generous locals donated a constant

prices a kid could afford. One day I pored over tables of what other people defined as junk and spotted a radio. Our family radio, in the kitchen, entertained my mother much

ONE DAY I PORED OVER TABLES OF WHAT OTHER PEOPLE DEFINED AS JUNK AND SPOTTED A RADIO. OUR FAMILY RADIO, IN THE KITCHEN, ENTERTAINED MY MOTHER MUCH OF THE DAY. I WANTED MY OWN DEVICE, ONE I COULD LISTEN TO AT NIGHT. supply. In the beginning the store also offered items on consignment and a ski boot exchange for children. I lived half a block away. There were few stores in Aspen at that time that would attract a child; Sardy’s sold everything that could be had in town, so once you checked out those goods you had completed your entire shopping experience. The thrift store displayed wider variety than Sardy’s, at

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of the day. I wanted my own device, one I could listen to at night. However, this radio was in a sorry state. I guessed someone had either dropped it on a hard floor or whacked it with a baseball bat because it was cracked and had a hole in its plastic cover. This was in the early days of thick matte plastic, faded brown. I visited the shop every day for a few days and ogled that radio. I hoped no

one else would discover that treasure. Finally I talked my mother into admiring my heart’s desire with me and I coaxed her to buy it. The price in 1950s dollars, as I recall, was $2. Despite its ugly, beat-up condition, the radio played just fine. I listened to it every night, my magic carpet to a larger world. No local stations broadcast competing waves, so I enjoyed clear reception from stations all over the country through Aspen’s high-altitude atmosphere. Cities that had been only dots on a map at school became real to me. I listened to country and western music from Texas, Spanish-speaking broadcasters in Mexico, and KGO programming from San Francisco. When stations drifted in and out of hearing range, I would twist the dial a smidgeon and tune in again. I seldom felt certain whether I had found the station I had been listening to or discovered a new one. The Thrift Shop, now an institution, has touched the lives of nearly everyone who has lived in Aspen. Now 65 years old, the store continues to aid the community and delight curious youth. Tim Willoughby’s family story parallels Aspen’s. He began sharing folklore while teaching for Aspen Country Day School and Colorado Mountain College. Now a tourist in his native town, he views it with historical perspective. Reach him at redmtn2@comcast.net.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE WILLOUGHBY COLLECTION

LEGENDS & LEGACIES

FROM the VAULT

compiled by THE ASPEN HISTORICAL SOCIETY

SLEIGH BELL S R I NG ...

1900 ASPEN

“TALLY-HO PARTY!” proclaimed the Aspen Democrat on Jan. 16, 1907. “A jolly party of about twenty young ladies and young men had a merry sleigh ride last evening. Instead of Christmas presents Mr. A.P. Tuttle promised the girls in his Sunday school class a sleigh ride. Mr. Tuttle and his class kindly invited Mrs. Craven and her class of boys to join the party. The happy crowd stopped for a time at the Citizen’s hospital where delicious refreshments were served. From the amount of noise made last evening you can be sure that the evening was a pleasant one for the young folks, too. The party dispersed about 11 o’clock and all voted that Mr. Tuttle was a royal entertainer.” The image above shows a large sleigh pulled by a team of four horses, stopped in front of the Tagert house on Durant Avenue, circa 1900. This photo and more can be found in the Aspen Historical Society archives at aspenhistory.org.

PHOTO COURTESY OF THE ASPEN HISTORICAL SOCIETY

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

FROM ASPEN, WITH LOVE

GEAR of the WEEK

by STEPHEN REGENOLD

HANDS ON: THUMB-LESS KID MITTENS DEXTERITY COMES SECOND to warmth for small children playing in snow. A new thumb-less mitten concept from Veyo offers a simple covering from the cold. The mittens are sold under the name “Mittyz,” and with designs that range from tiger paws to dinosaur heads, they roll with a youthful aesthetic. My kids love them so far this winter for sledding and tromping through the ice and snow. Any parent knows the pain of putting mittens or gloves on squirming kids. Then, outside playing, you pray the handwear will stay in place. Based in Utah, Veyo launched its take on the kid mitten design to solve some of these common concerns. The mitts are easy to put on with a big cuff opening. They fit around bulky coats or snowsuits, cinching in place halfway up the forearm and sealing off to keep snow from coming inside. A simple design, the Mittyz use a synthetic fleece material inside and out. They are waterproof thanks to a non-permeable material sandwiched inside. However, the soft face material absorbs water on slushy days. (The mitts flip inside-out for drying at home.) They come in sizes to fit kids 6-months-old to about 6 years. All cost $39.95, and the company has five kidfriendly designs, including penguin, butterfly, and “snow princess” motifs. Arctic mitts these are not. But they work for temps down to about 15 degrees F, depending on a kid’s activity level and tolerance for cold. The thumb-less design gives kids a kind of “paw,” and motor skills required for things like gripping shovels and molding snowballs are somewhat compromised. But my boys get enough purchase to pat down a snow fort or hold onto the side of a sled, their warm hands a small price for mediocre dexterity while enjoying comfort on the ride down. Stephen Regenold writes about outdoors gear at www.gearjunkie.com.

A S P E N T I M E S W E E K LY

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BUY IT

$39.95 www.veyokids.com

FROM ASPEN, WITH LOVE

ASPEN UNTUCKED

by BARBARA PLATTS

Thanks to its surfing, natural beauty and designation as one of Mexico’s “Magic Towns,” Sayulita is an increasingly popular destination.

SAY YOU WILL, SAYULITA A FAMILY VACATION IN A MAGICAL MEXICAN TOWN

A LESSON LEARNED quickly when vacationing in Mexico is that time is simply a number. Shops open when the owner feels like working. Taxis show up when they choose. And restaurants serve food right before your overwhelming hunger has made you sprint to the nearest taco stand for an appetizer. I don’t write this as a criticism to the Mexican culture. It’s just the pace of life down there. Things BARBARA PLATTS move just a tad slower south of the border, and that’s why most people love spending time down there so much. My family aren’t those kind of people. We like shops to be open when we’re ready to make a purchase. We get nervous if taxis don’t show up at least 10 minutes early. And we generally want our drinks at the table of the restaurant we are dining at before we even sit down … and for the food to follow shortly after. My family is many things, but patient is just not one of them. That is why we were all a bit cautious about traveling down to Mexico for our annual New Year’s trip. My parents, brothers, aunts, uncles and cousins have been taking these vacations every year since before I can even remember, and we all enjoy it immensely. But we worried Mexico might be too

P H OTO B Y M AT T F E R R O

laid-back for our rather anxious and neurotic group. Regardless of our worries, we trudged ahead and booked reservations for Sayulita, Mexico, a small coastal town 25 miles from Puerto Vallarta on the west coast of the country. A couple of my older cousins had been going there for years and raved about the town’s quaint size, active surfing community and incredible dining establishments. In fact, several people liken the town to Aspen as it only has about 4,500 full-time residents and the population fluctuates in size drastically depending on the season. So our group of 16 traveled there for the week between Christmas and New Year’s to see what all the talk was about. Sayulita has historical records that date back as far back as the 1500s. But surfers found it again in the 1960s when Mexican Highway 200 was built, giving them easy access to a beach with a dependable river-mouth surf break. From there, it was a hit. In the past few years, the village has grown immensely. New restaurants, bars and shops are popping up and, just like in Aspen, there are locals and visitors that worry the village is expanding too quickly. The week between Christmas and New Year’s was the busiest locals had ever seen it. Beaches that typically had only a few people on them were suddenly

holding hundreds. Restaurants had to give wait times and even take reservations for large groups. And the hotels and condos were at capacity. Even empty lots near the beaches were filled with tents. One reason for the drastic growth is that, this fall, Sayulita became a Pueblo Mágicos, or “Magic Town.” This means that the Mexican government sees the town as providing a unique (or “magical”) experience to visitors because of the natural beauty of the area, the historical importance of the town and/or the cultural and social riches in the community. This was an initiative created by the Mexico Tourism Board in 2001. They will have 111 “Magic Towns” by 2018. The designation doesn’t only make Sayulita a popular destination, it gives the town federal funding to help build new infrastructure and maintain historical sites. No work has been completed yet, but they have plans for a parking garage downtown, as well as a new sewage system to better handle all of the visitors. We didn’t know anything about the towns recently acquired “magic” when we arrived for vacation. But it was overwhelmingly obvious how special of a place Sayulita is. Every restaurant in town is incredible; I’m not sure it’s actually possible to find a bad taco. From the beach the whole shape of the town is viewable as well

as traces of other communities down the coast. Several of the streets are still set with old cobblestone and all the buildings, both old and new, are painted beautiful pastel shades. And the people who live there are some of the most joyful I’ve ever met. They treasure their town and being able to share it with visitors from all over the world. As for my family and me, we guzzled in the experience, consuming scores of fish tacos, hundreds of Pacífico beers, around 75 margaritas, at least a dozen piña coladas and roughly five bottles of mescal…but who’s counting? We approached the Sayulita scene fearlessly, putting each of our digestive systems’ strength and tenacity to the test at every turn. And our lack of patience, well… we found ways to cope. Whether that was bringing a bag of chips or a beer to dinner to endure the long wait or calling a taxi long before we needed it. We learned to relax and enjoy the natural pace of the town, reminding ourselves that we were on vacation and there was no need to rush. After all, we knew we weren’t going to be able to change Mexico. But perhaps, just maybe, Mexico changed all of us slightly. Now where the hell is my drink? Barbara Platts now knows to never eat lettuce in Mexico…no matter how appetizing it looks. Reach her at bplatts.000@gmail.com.

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

FROM ASPEN, WITH LOVE

WINEINK

A FLY BY AT JET CITY “THE FUNNY THING IS, I’m terrified of flying,” chuckled Washington winemaker Charles Smith as we stood watching a 787 glide in for a landing from the window of his wondrous new winemaking facility at the edge of Seattle’s Boeing Field. As we enter a new year, Smith would have to be the leading candidate for the “most KELLY J. HAYES interesting man in the wine world.” And it is clear that, save for flying, there is little that gives him cause for pause. This past summer, Smith opened what is perhaps the most exciting winery project in America, a 32,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art production facility, tasting room and hospitality center aptly monikered “Jet City.” The fact that it sits across a two-lane road from the end of a runway, a hundred miles or so from the nearest vineyards, makes it, well, off the charts. Add to that the funky surrounding neighborhood and the striking contemporary design by Olson Kundig, one of the nation’s most innovative architectural firms, and you have a destination winery that is worth making a trip to experience (wine country or not).

CHARLES IN CHARGE A self-taught winemaker with an outrageous head of hair (think Sammy Hagar), Smith released his first vintage in 2001. That year he sold just 330 cases of his 1999 K Syrah, a wine grown and vinified in the Walla Walla, Washington, wine country where he still maintains a winery and tasting room, as well as a home. In 2014, just 13 years later, Washington State wine records show that he shipped 750,000 cases under six separate labels. Growth has been trending at 25 percent per year and it would not be a stretch to suggest that Charles Smith Wines will surpass Precept as Washington’s second-largest winery behind industry behemoth Chateau Ste. Michelle in the coming years. Winemaking may seem an unlikely transition for a former manager of rock ‘n’ roll bands who spent close to a decade in Scandinavia shepherding the bookings and careers of artists, but then again, everything about Charles

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Smith seems a bit unlikely. His only previous experience in wine before becoming an entrepreneur was drinking great Bordeaux and running a wine shop on Bainbridge Island in Puget Sound. A meeting with Cayuse winemaker Christophe Baron at a barbecue led to Smith moving to Walla Walla and trying his hand at being a farmer/ winemaker. In the ensuing decade, Smith developed a variety of brands that appealed to different sections of the wine market, from those willing to pay the price for some of Washington’s best Syrah to those who wanted a bigger bang for a smaller buck. But all of the wines reflect the personality of the man who made them. Charles Smith is a larger-thanlife perfectionist who has 2 million ideas a day and the ability to delegate and designate which ones are worth pursuing. He tools around Seattle in a black Rolls Royce and is known in all of the best restaurants. It is rumored that those restaurants stock their lists with vintage Bordeaux just in case the man gets thirsty. And on his website, his official title is “El Presidente.” Fitting.

THE JUICE Charles Smith markets wines under six separate labels, each distinctive in their own right. K Vintners, the flagship, released 10 different wines this past fall including six bottlings of Syrah, with the 2012 Cattle King Syrah garnering 99 points from the Wine Advocate. 100 points is perfection. His eponymous Charles Smith Wines feature wines for everyday drinking, including the hugely popular “Kung Fu Girl” Riesling and the Eve Chardonnay. He has an old-vine chardonnay project, Sixto, named for the musician Sixto Rodriguez (the subject of the “Searching for Sugarman” documentary) that he makes with Brennon Leighton, director of winemaking for the winery. Other projects include Charles & Charles, made with Napa winemaker Charles Bieler and a sparkling wine project called Seco Italian Bubbles. Each wine resonates with Charles on a visceral level. He chooses the sites and dictates the styles with a plan in mind for just who will drink each style of wine. He creates labels for the bottles that are playful,

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Bottles line the warehouse in Charles Smith’s urban winery in Seattle’s Georgetown neighborhood.

bold and meaningful and are visual interpretations of what the wine is all about and the audience that it is geared toward. Philosophically, Charles Smith wines are about more than just wine. They are about an attitude.

JET CITY Nowhere is that attitude more prominently on display than at Jet City. The neighborhood, the Georgetown section of south Seattle, is a mash-up of eclectic restaurants, seriously independent coffee shops, comic book and vinyl record stores, tattoo parlors, shot-and-a-beer bars and industrial design outlets. Long considered to be an “emerging” neighborhood, Jet City in its short history has already brought attention to the area that will inevitably lead to change. A massive two-story window looks down the length of the Boeing Field runway fronting a space that once housed a Dr. Pepper bottling plant. On a clear day, “when the mountain is out” as Queen City

locals like to say, Mount Rainier reigns over the runway, making for an epic Seattle view. Every couple of minutes a massive jet glides mere feet from the top of the winery before touching down on the runway. Everyone who works at Charles Smith is accustomed to the interruptions caused by the jets, and they simply pause, midsentence, allowing the whine of the engines to fade, before they pick up the conversation where they left off.

UNDER THE INFLUENCE 2104 CHARLES SMITH WINES “EVE” CHARDONNAY $14 There are so many CSW offerings that I could suggest, but this elegant and affordable chardonnay can be found just about anywhere and is a great value. Creamy, with hints of oak, there is a green apple element that screams Washington. A solid food wine and one that is ever so lovely in the glass. Worth taking a bite out of.

COURTESY PHOTOS

by KELLY J. HAYES

This may seem like a distraction, and I suppose it can be when doing a proper tasting, but the power aroused by the aircraft and the sense of place induced by the views of these iconic Seattle sights evokes a feeling that fits exactly — precisely — into the Charles Smith zeitgeist. And then there is the design. If this were not a winery and tasting room, it could be one of the most interesting museum spaces in the country. Designed by Tom Kundig, of Seattle-based Olson Kundig Architects (who are on any list of white-hot architects in the world today), it pays homage to the working-class nature of the neighborhood with a spare industrial feel using a combination of steel, glass and expansive white walls to define the various rooms. Opposite the Mount Rainier and runway view, the winery is exposed via an expansive glass wall. And what a winery it is. Huge wooden fermentation tanks sit across from the largest collection of concrete tanks that I have ever seen anywhere. Gleaming steel and black industrial beams play off the immaculate collection of large oak barrels that the Syrah is stored and aged in. It is all brand new and immaculate. And it is all done to Charles’ exacting specifications. Jet City will also be a symbol for both an iconoclastic wine man and an emerging wine region that is fast becoming one of the most interesting places in the world for wine lovers. It is a destination winery. And perhaps the best winery without a vineyard in the world. Kelly J. Hayes lives in the soon-to-be-designated appellation of Old Snowmass with his wife, Linda, and black Lab named Vino. He can be reached at malibukj@aol.com.

IF YOU GO... HOTEL VINTAGE SEATTLE 1100 5th Ave. 206.624.8000 www.hotelvintage-seattle.com

TOP: Charles Smith sits in the new Jet City Winery scheming and dreaming as planes land across the street at Boeing Field. ABOVE: The façade of the former Dr. Pepper bottling facility that hosts Jet City , Charles Smith’s urban winery.

If you are going to take an urban wine trip you should stay at a hotel that celebrates the wines of the region. The Kimpton Group’s Hotel Vintage in downtown Seattle does just that. All the elements in the hotel have been created to subtly evoke the spirit of wine. The elevators are wrapped in wood and carved with maps depicting the various Washington State wine regions. Open the door to your warm and cozy room and you’ll find a spare, contemporary motif that is accented by a display over the bed made of wine corks.

Viceroy Snowmass Presents the Range & Vine series

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FROM ASPEN, WITH LOVE

FOOD MATTERS FOOD MATTERS

GUT FEELING

RESTORING MIND-BODY BALANCE — THROUGH FOOD WHAT’S WORSE than spending a night stranded at the airport? Waking up from said night at the airport with a rumbling tummy, hours before any restaurant is open for breakfast. It happened to me, midway through what would become 36 turbulent hours of delays, cancellations, missed connections, standby-list letdowns, exasperated airport AMANDA RAE employees, sick babies, rude strangers, frazzled flight attendants, circles in the sky over the RFV followed by a dispiriting return to DIA, and a “complimentary” shuttle bus, which, when it finally showed up, crawled like a snail over snowy mountain passes. Some of these things happen every season when I fly back to Aspen from the East Coast, but this year was particularly brutal. So, when the food court café opened for business early on the morning of December 30, I was first in line. You might think that a shivering, strung-out zombie would be grateful for any sort of sustenance, but a bad breakfast burrito was the final straw in my travel nightmare. Mealy potatoes, crusty bits of old chorizo, grey eggs — I couldn’t choke it down despite my hunger. Looking back, though, perhaps it wasn’t a poorly constructed breakfast burrito that made me feel sick. Maybe it was my own body turning against me during an anxious, stressful journey halfway across the country. Maybe my gut was to blame. Gut health is one of the biggest, and perhaps most important topics in health these days. The 100 trillion bacteria — that’s 10 times the number of cells in the human body — that live in the digestive tract comprise a delicate internal balance of microflora, influencing mental alertness as well as digestion. Insufficient beneficial bacteria in the

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intestines has been linked to skin issues such as eczema, psoriasis, and adult acne; insomnia and poor sleep; chronic fatigue syndrome; and mood disorders. In fact, many researchers call the gut, “the second brain” because of its correspondence with the main brain though the enteric nervous system. A balanced gut promotes healthy brain function; poor eating and out-of-whack microflora have been proven to contribute to depression and anxiety issues. Folks suffering from unexplained illnesses (constant exhaustion, skin rashes) or overweight individuals who can’t seem to shed unwanted pounds despite dieting may do well to focus on feeding their gut the right foods. Consuming a rainbow of vegetables and probioticrich foods (yogurt and other cultured and fermented items; see “Stomach This,” opposite) and limiting sugars and processed foods can help restore gut health and work toward solving myriad problems elsewhere in the body. What’s more, studies show that an unhealthy gut may absorb more calories from food than a healthy one, and can negatively affect hormones that regulate appetite. In December, researchers at the University of Iowa discovered that gut bacteria even influence the number of calories a person burns — while sleeping. Travelers — even those just hopping a flight within the USA — face an added challenge: Exposure to foreign microorganisms that can disrupt good-bad bacteria balance. In November I spent Thanksgiving in Mexico with no problems. Then I returned to Colorado. It seemed as if my system had trouble recognizing foods, accepting native microflora, and restoring itself to balance. Usually I try to avoid GMO foods — another threat to good gut bacteria, since they’re designed to tolerate pesticides lethal to

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the guts of pests — but the meals I consumed at an all-inclusive resort were certainly not organic. I can only wonder if my brief bout of helplessness that

determine how MREs, or “Meals, Ready-to-Eat,” are affecting our nation’s soldiers, who have no choice but to subsist on what the Army feeds them. (Because of

THE 100 TRILLION BACTERIA THAT LIVE IN THE DIGESTIVE TRACT COMPRISE A DELICATE INTERNAL BALANCE OF MICROFLORA, INFLUENCING MENTAL ALERTNESS AND MOOD AS WELL AS DIGESTION. IN FACT, MANY RESEARCHERS CALL THE GUT “THE SECOND BRAIN.” December morning in the airport café and the lingering sense of dis-ease for the next few days wasn’t all in my mind. Or perhaps it was — in my “second brain,” struggling to communicate with everything else. As research continues, consumers will likely pay more attention to striving to maintain a healthy gut environment. Even the U.S. Army Institute of Environmental Medicine is investigating how military food rations affect gut health. Currently the organization is recruiting volunteers to participate in a 21-day study to

mass production, much of it may be of lesser quality than what your family eats.) Those of us who are able to choose what we consume have the power to improve our health from the inside out. Now I better understand that the unfortunate, ahem, digestive consequences of holiday travel may be just as uncontrollable and unpredictable as a string of delayed and canceled flights. But humans are impressive in their ability to repair and restore. Which makes me feel better already. amandaraewashere@gmail.com

THINKSTOCK PHOTOS

by AMANDA RAE

STOMACH THIS Researchers agree: Food affects the body’s intestinal environment, which is composed of trillions of microbes. An imbalance of good bacteria, caused by poor diet; lack of exercise; certain medications such as antibiotics, acid-inhibitors, and NSAIDs; and travel both foreign and domestic can lead to a host of health problems. The good news: probiotics—hundreds of strains of good bacteria found in cultured and fermented foods— will help. “You can replenish your bacteria flora within three to four days,” says Gina Sam, MD, MPH, director of the Mount Sinai Gastrointestinal Motility Center at The Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. Opinions vary on just how often and in what quantity one should consume probiotics to reap the benefits, but the following foods are known to help restore gut health, according to the Cleveland Clinic: Yogurt Kefir Buttermilk Miso Tempeh Kimchi Sauerkraut

Thanks to probiotics, or good bacteria, cultured and fermented “living” foods such as yogurt and sour-pickled vegetables help restore the

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A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

FROM ASPEN, WITH LOVE

GUNNER’S LIBATIONS

by JEANNE MCGOVERN

NEED TO KNOW OK, we missed the first two (but think they’re funny so just had to share), but here are days worth marking on your calendar in the coming weeks and months: Jan. 1: National Hangover Day Jan. 3: National Drinking Straw Day Jan. 17: National Hot Buttered Rum Day Jan. 25: National Irish Coffee Day Feb. 22: National Margarita Day Feb. 27: National Kahlua Day March 4: Mulled Wine Day

2016: REASONS TO DRINK We know, we know ... the New Year often means resolutions to stop drinking — or at least cut back. And while we fully support making healthy choices, this column is, after all, called “Libations” for a reason. So, no quitting here. And if cutting back is deemed necessary, we offer you a handful of specific reasons to celebrate in the first quarter of 2016 (there are plenty of similar ones to round out the year at www.nationaldaycalendar.com). Keep your eyes on these pages as the weeks unfold for reviews of these “national” holiday beverages and our favorite recipes.

LIBATIONS WAS CREATED BY BELOVED ASPEN TIMES PUBLISHER GUNILLA ASHER, WHO DIED JUNE 2, 2014, AFTER A BRAVE BATTLE WITH CANCER. CHEERS — TO GUNNER!

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THINKSTOCK PHOTO

M E E T PA L L A D I U M ’ S TA L E N T E D E N S E M B L E .

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Castle Creek Valley Ranch • 6 bedrooms, 6 and 2 half baths, 10,761 sq ft • Never before offered! • Custom built home with log timbers imported from Yellowstone and custom cut Colorado sandstone • Privately located on 11 acres of beautiful aspen groves • Outdoor spaces feature several patios, and an elevated “overlook” point • Breathtaking views of Mt. Hayden – rarely seen from most points in Aspen $18,500,000 Garrett Reuss | 970.379.3458

One-of-a-Kind Mountain Retreat European and Rocky Mt. design influences Stone, timber, and shingle exterior Exquisite attention to detail throughout Super easy ski-in/ski-out access $11,500,000 Katie Grange | 970.948.2598

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Magnificent modern home with smart design Construction completion late 2016 Create a compound with adjacent property $8,300,000 530HallamModern.com Andrew Ernemann | 970.379.8125 Craig Morris | 970.379.9795

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Brand New Aspen Highlands Ski Home 5 bedrooms, 6.5 baths, 6,443 sq ft New custom Libman Design-Build home Views of Aspen Highlands & Maroon Creek Top-of-the-line finishes - completion Jan. 2016 $7,995,000 Chris Klug | 970.948.7055

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West Aspen Contemporary Home • Home with guest house situated in a park-like setting • Just steps from the Rio Grande Trail and the Roaring Fork River • 4 bedrooms, 4 full + 2 half baths in the main house and 2 bedrooms, 2 baths in the guest house, a total of 5,998 sq ft • Light and bright with a wonderful one level floor plan, high ceilings, wood floors and high end appointments • Oversized 2-car garage $8,450,000 Craig Morris | 970.379.9795 Maureen Stapleton | 970.948.9331

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ALL ABOUT THE APRÈS THE PARTY BEGINS WHEN THE LIFTS SHUT DOWN by JEANNE MCGOVERN

Ski towns are party towns. And Aspen may well be the definition of both. Google it … the proof is in the hits. In fact, Aspen/ Snowmass are more often than not ranked at top of the peak when it comes to après (and there was even a reality show “Après Ski” filmed locally.).

COURTESY PHOTO

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Visit our mountain playground — or live here — and you know the accolades aren’t just spin. Aspen, and the four ski areas that call these snow-covered peaks home (Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk), offer plenty of “offpiste” recreation. For some, this means the solitude of the backcountry. For others, it’s live music and the latenight bar scene. But for many — especially those who have just kicked off their ski boots (or not) after a days on the slopes — the party is in the après. Here is a glimpse, in pictures and words, about why Aspen does après like no other ... “It wouldn’t really be a ski vacation without après ski,” said Benjamin Collins, from upstate New York, on a recent afternoon at the base of Aspen Highlands. “And Aspen knows how to do both — or at least we think that every time we ski somewhere else and then come back here.” Collins and his posse of college buddies represent just a handful of the hordes of people partying at the base of Aspen’s mountains on any given afternoon. For him and his crew of East Coast

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IT’S A CLASSIC In search of the Crown Jewel of après parties? Look no further than the Après Ski Cocktail Classic. Scheduled for March 3-6 in Aspen/Snowmass, the fourth edition of this popular event promises to be just as lively as the previous ones. Need proof? On tap this year: rejuvenation stations, a grand tasting village, microseminars, private reserve tasting room, spirit & cocktail-paired dinners, fireside chats, special afterhours events, Sunday brunch and the granddaddy of them all: the Great Après Ski Pub Crawl. “We truly have something for everyone,” touts Classic co-founder Laura Albers. Indeed — we’ve always found the Classic to be a classic and the Pub Crawl to be a must-do on the winter bucket list. Tickets and more information at www.apresskicc.com.

natives, the party at the end of the ski day is almost as crucial to ski vacation success as the day on the hill. Fortunately, Aspen/Snowmass deliver. And Collins is not alone in his passion for the party. “One of the best things about an Aspen vacation is having four mountains to choose from for skiing — which means four times as many places to choose from for après,” says Susan Clark, a longtime visitor from Seattle. “And now that my vacations have turned from girls’ trips to family trips, I’ve found that to be even more important.” Indeed, from the glittery scene at Nello to the down-home vibe at Bump’s and the classic après spots in Snowmass to the locals’ groove at Aspen Highlands, it’s fairly easy to see why Aspen/ Snowmass tally some 5 million hits when you Google “Aspen party town.” “If you can’t find a good way to end your ski day in Aspen, well, you probably shouldn’t be a skier,” joked a local server during a jam-packed afternoon on the Ajax Tavern deck. We couldn’t agree more. Party on!

PHOTOS BY JEREMY WALLACE; COURTESY PHOTO (FOOD & DRINK INSET)

WHERE TO APRÈS

APRÈS HAPPENS EVERY DAY, ALL SKI SEASON LONG. TO GIVE YOU A TASTE OF WHAT’S OUT THERE, HERE’S THIS WEEKEND’S CALENDAR OF EVENTS, AND A FEW OTHER REGULAR HAPPENINGS (YOU CAN ALWAYS FIND THE LATEST AT WWW. ASPENTIMES.COM) ... THURSDAY, JAN. 7 Chris Bank — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Hotel Damian Smith and Terry Bannon — 3 p.m., Venga Venga, Snowmass Village Joe Kelly and Zoe — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Après Ski with Bradman’s One Man Band — 3:30 p.m., Turks, Snowmass Village Chris Phillips — 6 p.m., 8K Lounge, Viceroy Snowmass AXIS LP — 4 - 7 p.m., Limelight Lounge DJ Folami — 4 - 7 p.m., Chair 9 @ The Little Nell FRIDAY, JAN. 8 Larry and Patty Herd — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Hotel Live Music With Wade Waters and Callie Angel — 3 p.m., Base Camp Bar and Grill, Snowmass Village

PHOTOS BY JEREMY WALLACE; COURTESY PHOTO (INSET RIGHT)

Chris Phillips — 6 p.m., 8K Lounge, Viceroy Snowmass Defiance Stringband — 4 - 7 p.m., Limelight Lounge DJ Naka G — 4 - 7 p.m., Chair 9 @ The Little Nell SATURDAY, JAN. 9 Damian Smith and Terry Bannon — 3 p.m., Venga Venga, Snowmass Village Joe Kelly and Zoe — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Snowmass Après Ski with Bradman’s One Man Band — 3:30 p.m., Turks, 72 Elbert Lane, Snowmass. Americana, folk rock, bluegrass, classic rock and originals. Chris Phillips — 6 p.m., 8K Lounge, Viceroy Snowmass Mood Swing — 4 - 7 p.m., Limelight Lounge SUNDAY, JAN. 10 Mark Johnson and Chris Bank — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Hotel, Snowmass Village Chris Phillips — 6 p.m., 8K Lounge, Viceroy Snowmass DJ — 39 Degress @ the Sky Hotel Uptown Strutters — 4 - 7 p.m., Limelight Lounge

SPECIAL EVENTS AND OTHER GOOD BETS • Sun worshiper? The best decks (in our opinion) are Ajax Tavern, the new Nello and Mezzaluna. • Feeling spendy? Purchase a “private chair” at Chair 9 @ The Little Nell. The “Veuve Package” includes six bottles of Veuve Clicquot Champagne, one bottle of Belvedere Vodka , plus 12 sliders, 12 oysters, truffle fries, and a 1 ounce chef’s selection caviar. • Looking for unique libations? Try a flight at the Hotel Jerome’s Living Room or the Limelight Lounge (which has the longest happy hour in town), or the “Shot of the Day” at the St. Regis’ Shadow Mountain Lounge. • Skiing Highlands? There’s also the early après (really it’s during the ski day) scene at Cloud Nine. After the lifts close, try Willow Creek at the Ritz-Carlton for a more upscale experience and the Alehouse for a lively local party. • Buttermilk-bound? The deck at Bump’s at the base is ideal for après, while the newly renovated McKinney’s @ the Inn at Aspen has turned things up a notch with a sleek decor, fire pit, drink and food specials, and live music.

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

The Aspen Aspen Club Club ResidenCes. ResidenCes. ThreeThree- and and Four-bedroom Four-bedroom Townhomes Townhomes and The and Four-bedroom Four-bedroom Club Club Residences. A desirable twist on second home shared ownership. no rotating reservation program Residences. A desirable twist on second home shared ownership. no rotating reservation program hassles and and headaches. headaches. Own Own exactly exactly what what you you want, want, when when you you want hassles want it. it. limited limited offerings. offerings. Guaranteed stays. Magical setting. Aspen Club privileges. The private Residence Club perfected. Guaranteed stays. Magical setting. Aspen Club privileges. The private Residence Club perfected.

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Void where prohibited by law. This advertisement does not constitute an offer to sell real property in any jurisdictions where prior registration or other advance qualification of real property is required. The Aspen Club and the Aspen Club Residences are currently under Void where prohibited byamenities law. This and advertisement not constitute an offer toavailable sell real property in any priorfloor registration or other advance qualification of real property is required. Clubrepresent and the Aspen Club Residences areand/or currently under of development, all of the real estate does properties may or may not be at this time. Anyjurisdictions illustrations,where imagery, plans, and/or architectural renderings are artists depictions and mayThe notAspen accurately the final product, services, amenities development, all are of the amenities and real estate properties may or may not be availableLLC. at this illustrations, floor plans,Powered and/or architectural renderings are artists depictions and may not accurately represent the final product, services, and/or amenities of the project and subject to change without notice. ÂŠ2015 Aspen Club International, Alltime. rightsAny reserved. Sales.imagery, Marketing. Design. by Forte International. the project and are subject to change without notice. ÂŠ2015 Aspen Club International, LLC. All rights reserved. Sales. Marketing. Design. Powered by Forte International.

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Announcing Aspen’s First New Condominiums in Over 20 Years Limited Time Pre-Construction Pricing — Prices Will Increase Soon Prime Units Available Now — Choose Your Favorite Before Someone Else Does

THE REBIRTH OF AN ICON

Born in the 1950s and celebrated for decades, Aspen’s iconic Boomerang Lodge is staging its exciting rebirth. Our team of award-winning architects and designers, along with our world-class partners at Destination Hotels, are preparing what we’ve envisioned to be a pitch perfect resort living experience.

Imagine yourself here: BoomerangAspen.com

linda israel

Now Accepting Purchase Contracts Wholly-owned Lodge Condominiums (not fractional) and Private Residences Studios to 3BR Penthouses from $500,000 to $6.5 Million

Craig Ward, Listing Broker 970.379.1254 mobile 970.925.6060 office Craig.Ward@sothebysRealty.com Or stop by our offices at 415 East Hyman Ave in Aspen

To Support The Gunilla Israel Asher Scholarship Fund The Aspen Times established the Gunilla Israel Asher Scholarship to provide college scholarships to Aspen High School students. The scholarship will be funded, in part, by the sale of 100 giclees of an original painting by Gunilla’s sister, renowned artist Linda Israel. “G a Bear” embodies all that was Gunilla: beauty, tenacity, strength, power and mystery.

To purchase your limited edition giclees of “G a Bear,” for $1,000, contact Samantha Johnston at The Aspen Times, 970-925-3414 or by email at sjohnston@aspentimes.com.

Limited Edition “G a Bear” Giclee, 30” x 30.” Original artwork by Linda Israel.

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

VOYAGES

ESCAPE ARTIST | TOKYO

by LINDA LOMBARDI for THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

SMALL SHOPS, BIG PARK: TOKYO’S KICHIJOJI NEIGHBORHOOD VISITORS looking to spend a few hours away from the tourist attractions of central Tokyo might consider taking the train to Kichijoji. Along with the usual department stores and chain retailers like Uniqlo that cluster around large Tokyo train stations, the neighborhood is home to smaller shopping areas, some uniquely Japanese, and a major park. The JR Kichijoji train station is west of central Tokyo on the Chuo line, one stop away from the popular Ghibli Museum. The museum is devoted to the work of Studio Ghibli, which is known for animated movies including “My Neighbor Totoro” and the Academy Award-winning “Spirited Away.” As you head from the station toward Inokashira Park, you’ll find cute shops with a youthful vibe selling clothes and knickknacks on side streets. Restaurants offer outdoor seating, which isn’t common in Tokyo. You’ll actually have to look a bit for Japanese food in this part of the neighborhood,

but one good choice is on the left as you head into the park: Toriyoshi, which has an English menu and specializes in yakitori (grilled chicken skewers). Nearby cafes specialize in French toast, waffles or crepes, and French and Italian food. At a Starbucks, locals hang out with their dogs and babies. A flight of stairs leads down into Inokashira Park, full of big trees around a pond, where you can rent pedal boats and see street performers on weekends in nice weather. The park is also a good spot for viewing cherry blossoms in season. Follow the bridge over the pond to a small zoo. The first section is mostly birds; it’s a bit of a hike to the rest of the zoo, but it’s a nice walk. Visitors from places where squirrels roam freely might be surprised to find squirrels living here in a walk-through enclosure. Admission to the zoo is 400 yen for adults (about $3.35) and a small amusement park area has rides for children. For a traditional Japanese

shopping experience, on the other side of the station look for tall bluegreen metal framework. This is the Sun Road shotengai, a shopping street covered by an arcade. It’s like a shopping mall unrolled into one long row but a bit more practical, selling everything from eyeglasses to vegetables. Shotengai are fading in some parts of Tokyo, but this one is modernized and vibrant. You’ll find boutiques, discount shops, shoes plain and fancy, books, coffee places, all kinds of clothing, drugstores, and restaurants, with more Japanese food in this area than other parts of the neighborhood. You can get an English brochure about the broader area at a tiny tourism booth (blink and you’ll miss it) on the right. For a trip back in time to the mid20th century, don’t miss Harmonica Yokocho, a warren of narrow alleys full of tiny bars and restaurants that’s

liveliest at night but worth a look any time of day. (The grid of alleys is said to resemble the reeds of a harmonica.) To find it, look to your left inside the Sun Road entrance; if you see tiny alleys that you’re not sure are public, that’s probably it. You can also access the alleys from the main road, directly across from the station. Some stores here are run by younger people, and boutiques are popping up. But there’s also an old, cheap clothing shop and a restaurant with the dust of decades on its plastic curtain and paper lantern. That slightly scruffy atmosphere is part of the area’s charm.

TOP, ABOVE Storefronts in the Kichijoji neighborhood of Tokyo. The area has small shops and eateries, as well as a large park, Inokashira. LEFT Steps lead into Inokashira Park in the Kichijoji neighborhood of Tokyo. The park has a pond and small zoo. Kichijoji is also home to a vibrant retail district with small stores and a traditional-style shopping arcade called a shotengai.

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PHOTOS BY: LINDA LOMBARDI/ AP

GET YOUR S KI ON — W E ’V E G OT YOU R DRE A M PA RK CIT Y MOUN TA IN E S TAT E 155 WHITE PINE CANYON ROAD // SELLING AT OR ABOVE $5.5M // AUCTION JANUARY 16TH

72 WHITE PINE CANYON ROAD // SELLING WITHOUT RESERVE // AUCTION JANUARY 15TH

OTHERS UPCOMING PARADISE ISLAND, BAHAMAS • ORIENT BAY, FRENCH ST. MARTIN, CARIBBEAN • LITCHFIELD COUNTY, CT • SCOTTSDALE, AZ • PHOENIX, AZ • MONTEGO BAY, JAMAICA VANUA LEVU, FIJI • VIEQUES ISLAND, PUERTO RICO • JACKSON HOLE, WY • LOS CABOS, MEXICO • SAINT TROPEZ, FRANCE • FREEPORT, GRAND BAHAMA ISLAND LOCKRUM BAY, ANGUILLA • NORTH SHORE, OAHU, HI • RANCHO SANTA FE, CA • SAINT FRANCISVILLE, LOUISIANA • MAUI, HI

CO N C I ERG EAUCT I O N S .CO M // 212.257.5018 // LISTED BY PAUL BENSON OF ENGEL & VÖLKERS PARK CITY This proper ty is listed for sale by Paul R. Benson (5757781-SA000) of Engel & Völkers Park City (9219587-CN00) – 1526 Ute Blvd Suite 100, Park City, UT 84098 (435) 640-5080. Concierge Auctions, LLC is a marketing ser vice provider for auctions and is not a licensed Real Estate broker. The ser vices referred to herein are not available to residents of any state where prohibited by applicable state law. Concierge Auctions, LLC, its agents and affiliates, broker par tners, auctioneer, and sellers do not warrant or guaranty the accuracy or completeness of any information and shall have no liability for errors or omissions or inaccuracies under any circumstances in this or any other proper ty listings or adver tising, promotional or publicity statements and materials. This is not meant as a solicitation for listings. Brokers are protected and encouraged to par ticipate. See Auction Terms and Conditions for full details.

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

MOUNTAINMAYHEM

Event sponsor and designer Mish Tworkowski with AAM CEO and Director Heidi Zuckerman. MarySue Bonetti photo.

The SOCIAL SIDE of TOWN

Jan and John Sarpa.

Susan and Larry Marx. MarySue Bonetti photo.

THE NOW 2015

Regina Tuchinsky and Alexander Hankin visiting Aspen from Philadelphia.

THE ASPEN ART MUSEUM’S winter benefit, formerly known as Freestyle, has taken on a new identity as The Now, held at the Shigeru Bandesigned building, which was illuminated in blue for the MAY SELBY Dec. 28 event. The evening began with cocktails, caviar and cheese as models in Dennis Basso designs waltzed through the rooftop party. Next, dinner was served in the main gallery with brief speeches from CEO and Executive Director Heidi Zuckerman, event co-chair Kitzia Goodman and Colorado Gov. John Hickenlooper, with the live auction featuring Sotheby’s Andrea Fiuczynski. Then it was back to the rooftop for dessert and a private concert with the Canadian pop producer-singer known as Grimes. Guests dressed to the nines with popular fashions such as pocket squares and suits on many of the gents and black dresses and statement piece jewelry on many of the women. The Now is presented by Dennis Basso and sponsored by MISH New York, auction house Sotheby’s, Modern Luxury’s Aspen Magazine, and JETS.COM. Visit the AAM online at www.aspenartmuseum.org.

Melyora Kramer de Koning and Kendrick de Koning.

Contact May with insights, invites or info: allthewaymaymay@hotmail.com

Amy and John Phelan arriving at The Now 2015. MarySue Bonetti photo.

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The talented Grimes, a Canadian singer, songwriter, music

Domenico and Eleanore De Sole. MarySue Bonetti photo.

by MAY SELBY

Sotheby’s Andrea Fiuczynski, who served as live auctioneer for the event, and Stefano Pedretti.

Lauren King, designer Dennis Basso and Carolyn Powers. MarySue Bonetti photo.

Richard Edwards with Sarah Hoover and her husband, artist Tom Sachs.

Jeffrey and Nicola Marcus. MarySue Bonetti photo.

Bob and Nancy Magoon with Colorado Gov. John Hickenlooper.

Paul and June Schorr. MarySue Bonetti photo.

The Now 2015 event chair Kitzia Goodman with her husband, Richard Goodman.

The Aspen Art Museum’s bright blue hue for The Now 2015.

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

ARTS&ENTERTAINMENT

MUSIC/ART/FILM/LITERATURE

by ANDREW TRAVERS

A WARREN MILLER DOUBLE-FEATURE AT THE WHEELER WHEN THE FALDERAL of the holidays pass, when the celebrities jet away and the road traffic eases and the festival of wealth culture that is late December here comes to an end, then Aspen returns to what it is now and always has been: a ski town. Sure, the picture most of the world has of Aspen is of that a glittering place where the fabulous and fur-clad gather. But if you spend enough time here, it’s clear that it’s a community of people who have oriented their lives around the idea of sliding down mountains on sticks. And there may be no off-theslopes tradition more universal and time-honored in ski towns than gathering to watch the annual Warren Miller ski movie when his tour comes to town. This year, the Wheeler Opera House is hosting a Miller doublefeature on Jan. 9, showing Warren Miller Entertainment’s two winter releases: “Chasing Shadows” and “Streif.” “Chasing Shadows” follows skiers and snowboarders to the slopes of Chamonix, Alaska’s Chugach, Utah’s Wasatch and into the Himalayas. Among the featured athletes are JT Holmes, Seth Wescott, Caroline Gleich, Steven Numan and Marcus Caston, and segments include one segment on powder surfing and another on a mono-ski gathering in Jackson Hole. “Streif,” an acclaimed portrait of Austria’s Hahnenkamm World Cup race following five top downhillers, isn’t a proper Miller movie: it was produced by Red Bull Media House, one of the countless production companies that followed in his footsteps. But Miller’s company is touring it around the U.S. through 2016. Miller, now 91, and his Warren Miller Entertainment, has been making ski movies annually now for 66 years, though he doesn’t actually get behind the camera anymore. The skiing and filming equipment may have evolved over the decades, but Miller’s movies and their celebration of life on snow are timeless.

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Twenty-four of his movies have featured Aspen. The Aspen Skiing Co. recently announced it was honoring the ski film legend by dedicating a trail on each of its four local mountains for those movies. So before the movies on Saturday, you can cruise Aspen Mountain’s “Silver Bell,” which has been temporarily dubbed in honor of Miller’s 1957 entry “Anyone for Skiing?” You can drop into Snowmass’ Cirque Headwall, which is renamed for 2006’s “Higher Ground.” Or rip down Buttermillk’s “Racer’s Edge,” tagged for Miller’s 2013 offering “Ticket to Ride.” At Highlands, “Steep and Deep,” is already named after Miller’s 1985 movie.

IF YOU GO... What: ‘Streif’ Where: Wheeler Opera House When: Saturday, Jan. 9, 4 p.m. How much: $10 Tickets: Wheeler Opera House box office; www.aspenshowtix.com What: ‘Warren Miller’s Chasing Shadows’ Where: Wheeler Opera House When: Saturday, Jan. 9, 7 p.m. How much: $15/advance; $20/ day-of Tickets: Wheeler Opera House box office; www.aspenshowtix.com

atravers@aspentimes.com

TOP: Espen Fadness in “Warren Miller’s Chasing Shadows.” ABOVE: Monopalooza 2015 at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, featured in “Chasing Shadows.”

Janu ar y 7 - Janu ar y 13, 20 16

COURTESY PHOTO; PHOTO COURTESY OF CODY DOWNARD (BOTTOM)

THELISTINGS

JAN. 7-13, 2016

SATURDAY, JAN. 9 DAMIAN SMITH AND TERRY BANNON — 3 p.m., Venga Venga, Snowmass Village. Live music. JOE KELLY AND ZOE — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Snowmass Hotel, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Rock, blues and Latin music. APRES SKI WITH BRADMAN’S ONE MAN BAND — 3:30 p.m., Turks, 72 Elbert Lane, Snowmass. Americana, folk rock, bluegrass, classic rock and originals. HEAR The Crystal Method will perform at Belly Up Aspen on Jan. 9.

THURSDAY, JAN. 7 CHRIS BANK — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Hotel, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Live music. HISTORICAL PUB TOUR — 3:30 p.m., Red Onion, 420 E. Cooper Ave., Aspen. Learn about Aspen establishments’ history, and hear local lore. Tour meets at the Red Onion and ends at the J-Bar. Presented by Aspen Historical Society. MASTERPIECE MINE: PAINT AND WINE — 5:30 p.m., Red Brick Center for the Arts, 110 E. Hallam St., Suite 118, Aspen. Painting session with drinks and snacks. NA’AN STOP — 10 p.m., Belly Up, 450 S. Galena St., Aspen. Reggae, rock, dub and ska. All ages.

FRIDAY, JAN. 8 LARRY AND PATTY HERD — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Hotel, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Live rock and blues. LIVE MUSIC WITH WADE WATERS AND CALLIE ANGEL — 3 p.m., Base Camp Bar and Grill, 73 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Upbeat country

WHEELER OPERA HOUSE

CHRIS PHILLIPS — 6 p.m., 8K Lounge, Viceroy Snowmass, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Classical and flamenco guitar.

Americana. 970-923-6000 OPENING RECEPTION: “COLLABORATIONS,” BY CRAIG O’BRIEN — 5 p.m., Art Base Annex, 174 Midland Ave., Basalt. Printer, art facilitator and OBrien Graphics founder will present work that he printed by a variety of artists, including Carol Anthony, Donald Judd, Robert Rauschenberg and Andy Warhol. For more information and full schedule, visit http://theartbase.org. Contact 970-927-4123 or info@theartbase. org. BEST OF THE WEST ARTIST’S OPENING RECEPTION — 5 p.m., Ann Korologos Gallery, 211 Midland Ave., Basalt. Featuring the work of nine Western artists. CHRIS PHILLIPS — 6 p.m., 8K Lounge, Viceroy Snowmass, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Classical and flamenco guitar. VID WEATHERWAX — 7 p.m., Heather’s Savory Pies and Tapas Bar, 166 Midland Ave., Basalt. R&B and funk. NAPPY ROOTS AND BLACKALICIOUS — 8:45 p.m., Belly Up, 450 S. Galena St., Aspen. Southern hip-hop. 21 and older. $25. 970-544-9800

FRI, JAN 8

WARREN MILLER’S “CHASING SHADOWS” — 8 p.m., Wheeler Opera House, 320 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen. Winter-sports film featuring J.T. Holmes, Seth Wescott, Caroline Gleich, Steven Nyman, Marcus Caston, Ingrid Backstrom and more in the French Alps, Alaska’s Chugach Range, Utah’s Wasatch Range, the Chilean Andes and the Himalayas. Skiing, snowboarding, monoskiing, powsurfing and speedriding. Giveaways include resort and retail savings, ski vacations, ski and snowboard gear, swag and the opportunity to meet athletes featured in the film. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit www.warrenmiller.com. JOSEFINA MENDEZ, TIM FOX AND MARK JOHNSON — All day, Heather’s Savory Pies and Tapas Bar, 166 Midland Ave., Basalt. Brazilian jazz and American classic jazz.

SUNDAY, JAN. 10

CHRIS PHILLIPS — 6 p.m., 8K Lounge, Viceroy Snowmass, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Classical and flamenco guitar. THE WAILERS — 9 p.m., Belly Up, 450 S. Galena St., Aspen. Reggae. All ages. 970-544-9800

TUESDAY, JAN. 12 WINTER WORDS PRESENTS JUAN FELIPE HERRERA — 6 p.m., Paepcke Auditorium, 1000 N. Third St., Aspen. Tickets and passes available at the Wheeler Box Office and www. aspenwords.org. ART APRES — All day, Anderson Ranch Arts Center, 5263 Owl Creek Road, Snowmass. Art, ceramics, books and art supplies available. Galleries and art studios open for viewing.

WEDNESDAY, JAN. 13 WRIT LARGE LIVE STORYTELLING SERIES — 5 p.m., Justice Snow’s, 328 E. Hyman Ave., Aspen. Storytellers include Dan Glidden, Florence Caplow, Eliza Kane, Bill Kight, Elissa Rodman, Gregory Pickrell and Lee Reed. $10 per person. Participate in nonfiction storytelling, learn about storycraft techniques, and apply them in performances in front of a live audience. 970-429-8192 LIVE MUSIC WITH DAMIAN SMITH AND DENNIS JUNG — 10 p.m., Red Onion, 420 E. Cooper Ave., Aspen. EVERYONE ORCHESTRA — 10 p.m., Belly Up, 450 S. Galena St., Aspen. Improvisational musical project featuring members of String Cheese Incident, Trey Anastasio Band and more. All ages.

MARK JOHNSON AND CHRIS BANK — 3 p.m., The Nest at the Viceroy Hotel, 130 Wood Road, Snowmass Village. Live jazz.

SAT, JAN 9

SUN, JAN 10

For all things Wheeler, visit

wheeleroperahouse.com

GRAND RE-OPENING WEEKEND

www.aspenshowtix.com #allnewwheeler

January 8-10, 2016 Grand Re-opening!

ONE MAN STAR WARS™ TRILOGY Tickets $20 • 8 PM

THE CITY OF ASPEN

COURTESY PHOTO

STREIF

FREE CONCERT!

CHASING SHADOWS

SETH GLIER

Tickets $10 • 5 PM

$15 Advance • $20 Door 8 PM

Made Possible by Wheeler RETT 8 PM

WHEELER WINS! memberships are available for locals. Call 970.920.5770 to join for ONLY $10 and start enjoying a variety of benefits including discounted ticket prices!

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

WORDPLAY

INTELLIGENT EXERCISE

by DANIEL PERSON for HIGH COUNTRY NEWS

BOOK REVIEW

‘THE DYING GRASS’ WILLIAM T. VOLLMANN’S striking new novel, “The Dying Grass,” chronicles the shameful events of the Nez Perce War of 1877, when the United States Army tried to prevent several bands of Native Americans from fleeing to Canada after miners and settlers encroached on tribal lands in the Northwest, in blatant violation of an earlier treaty. Much of the tale — and it’s a long one, north of 1,200 pages — is told from the perspective of Gen. Oliver Otis Howard, who led the campaign. Howard personifies a troublesome wrinkle in American history: the nearsimultaneous fights to emancipate slaves and obliterate Native Americans. Unlike many of his fellow bluecoats, Howard was fiercely opposed to slavery; in fact, he founded Howard University, a black college, in Washington, D.C., in 1867. Vollmann uses Howard’s memoirs to create internal dialogues that show

NOTEWORTHY ‘The Dying Grass’ William T. Vollmann 1,213 pages, hardcover: $55 Viking Press, 2015

him wrestling with the injustice of American Indian policy. Howard was acutely aware of the fact that settlers were willfully encroaching on treaty land in the Wallowa Valley. He sees his government as terrorizing the Nez Perce people: “He feels for them, of course. He disapproves not only of our national Indian policy, but also of Wallowa’s heedless seizures.” Yet he still leads the campaign against the Nez Perce and several other Indian tribes. Why? Howard himself struggles with the question: He’s a soldier; he needs the money; he’s proud to serve his country. When all else fails, he reasons that, “Washington has given instructions, and there must be an end.” Howard is a tragic figure whose self-deception becomes painfully obvious as the long march carries on. In him, Vollmann finds a clear historical allegory for America at large — a nation keenly aware of its principles even as it

fails to live up to them. Vollmann is notorious for writing at too great a length, but something must be said for the book’s word-to-word beauty. He has a tendency to fall into near-verse when describing a scene. Early in the novel, he flashes forward to his own visit to Chief Joseph’s grave on the Colville Indian Reservation near Nesplelem, Washington, where the surviving members of Joseph’s band were eventually placed, years after their surrender. Standing in the cemetery, Vollmann forms something like a High Plains haiku from a simple inscription on another gravestone: “— my heart is good; my heart is grass; graves in the gravel and golden grass.”

by DAVID WOOLF / edited by WILL SHORTZ

RECORD OF THE YEAR

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Malicious computer programs Essence Chippendales dancer, e.g. One in the closet Band that doesn’t play much music nowadays Common gas station attachment 2001 foreign film with five Oscar nominations Radishes with long white roots Nag Accepted, as an offer Was behind a register, maybe Battery parts For whom products are designed Passing mention? Short pants McKellen of “The Hobbit” Alternative to Facebook Messenger Golden Bears’ sch. Suggest Supreme Court justice who once said “I am a New Yorker, and 7 a.m. is a civilized hour to finish the day, not to start it” Concupiscence Power, so to speak Language of Afghanistan “The Undiscovered Self” author Filthy

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Low points How curry is often served Divisions politiques Beckons through a portal “I hate when that happens!” Cousin of a foil Dark horses Capital of Gambia Like some building damage Sterile One having a simple existence Blowout, in sports lingo To land Drive off Available Spring forecast How silverware is often sold Obesity Rear Your of yore Some protective barriers “Vous êtes ____” Tap things? Fig. often discounted Pre-curve figure “Sounds likely to me” Exceptionally well behaved Boom box pair Looked (in) Lover boys Sole representatives, maybe Gum arabic source Oakland’s county Like HBO and Showtime vis-à-vis basic cable

125 Something you can believe in 126 If everything fails 127 Blues musician known as Sleepy John

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Mural’s beginning? Town: Ger. Singer with the 2012 #1 hit “Somebody That I Used to Know” 41 It splits the uprights 42 Paramecium propellers 43 Kind of professor 44 Some premium seating 46 Licorice flavor 48 Colorful gem 49 Barber’s supply 50 ____ Accords 51 Keystone Kops-like scene 53 Icy remark? 58 Diverges 61 Besprinkle, say 62 Suffix with conspirator 65 Church book 67 One of the Obamas 68 Unable to do well 69 Rural community 70 Lack of influence 71 Kentucky Derby drinks 73 Ones up in arms? 74 No longer wanted 75 More ____ enough 76 ____ Reader 77 Most lipstick options 79 Big lipstick seller 80 Dry (off) 81 Memorable 2011 hurricane 82 Mint roll 84 Rathskeller decoration 86 Breathe in 92 Word often seen in brackets 96 Green grp. 98 Item in a tent 100 Guy’s thanks?

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61 64

106

27 31

120

113 121 124 127

— Last week’s puzzle answers — 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 110

Cut over, in a way Dollar competitor Convince A lot Horatian work Certain tablet Boil down Handle Publisher of Champion magazine, for short 111 “Who is John

113 114 115 116 118

120

____?” (question in “Atlas Shrugged”) Hosp. readouts Lies Just above where 35-Across end They were wiped off the map in ’91 Daniel ____ Kim, “Hawaii Five-0” actor Remained in inventory

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L E A D O F F D O U B L E

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O N O A D P P I N A G E I R D E N D O R T S M A O O T F O S L N W I A P O P T E R O N I A R I N L I N G L A O R P T I N O S A S E S E

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S A N G R D I I N T N C A A O E S O A N D O W C H E B O G O N R I A E N B A A D E T S A S E M I N N E D A S E V E

E S S H A T E R R U H Y M A L L E F I N C B S A A F R A M A L O N G S T S S J R U V E R E S O N E R N T S

T E A M O A V I A N G A R R E T S F R A E C A I R S P A R E M L A T E D A L S C O A U R O R S T P A U L M E S P E U S H L A T E V E N G I L C A N A L S A Z Z D U E D E D V E S T D E T A T W I N T O O T A P O E M

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CLOSING ENCOUNTERS

IMAGE of the WEEK

photography by JEREMY WALLACE

| 01.02.16 | Snowmass Village | THE SKITTLES GONDOLA GOES ’ROUND AND ’ROUND AS THE NEW YEAR GETS UNDERWAY AT THE SNOWMASS SKI AREA.

Have a great photo taken in or around Aspen? Send your high resolution images our way along with the date, location and caption information. Send entries to jmcgovern@aspentimes.com

A S P E N T I M E S . C O M / W E E K LY

Welcome to Full Throttle Ranch • • • • • • •

Valley’s premier sporting ranch on 222 acres One of the area’s only private helipads Main house (5,991 sq ft, 6 bedrooms, 5.5 baths) Guest house (2,202 sq ft, 3 bedrooms, 2 baths) Gym in a separate building (2,400 sq ft) Barn apt (2,504 sq ft, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths) Heated barn (6,682 sq ft, 2 powder rooms, 9 horse stalls, 1 wash stall, and 1 grooming stall) • Cattle Creek runs throughout the property • Horseback riding, fishing and much more! $16,000,000 Furnished Jana Dillard | 970.948.9731 Ted Borchelt | 970.309.3626 Craig Morris | 970.379.9795

Once in a Lifetime… Meanwhile Ranch 7 bedrooms, 7 full and two half baths, 17,376 sq ft 56 acres, porches, landscaping, water features 3-car garage, guest house, caretaker’s apt Horse facility, water rights, fishing access $14,995,000 www.MeanwhileRanchAspen.com Chris Klug | 970.948.7055

The True “Rocky Mountain High” 11 bedrooms, 7 baths, 9,077 sq ft Two separate deeded properties Unique details. Own a piece of music history! $10,750,000 $7,800,000 StarwoodHouse.info Main house available separately $5,600,000 Carol Dopkin | 970.618.0187

Wood Run Lots Opportunity to create 2-home compound Contiguous ski-in/ski-out lots Located adjacent to open space for privacy Walking distance to Base Village $12,500,000 Larry Jones | 970.379.8757

West End Victorian Victorian remodel with modern addition Construction completion late 2016 Create a compound with adjacent property $7,300,000 530HallamCorner.com Andrew Ernemann | 970.379.8125 Craig Morris | 970.379.9795

Exclusive Red Mountain Address 5 bedrooms, 5.5 baths, 4,912 sq ft Flat lot with stream running through Quick access to downtown Aspen Timeless mountain style with views $8,950,000 Matt Holstein | 970.948.6868

Brand New Mountain Contemporary 6 bedrooms, 6 baths, 4,500 sq ft Awesome panoramic views Features top of the line finishes $6,750,000 Sally Shiekman-Miller | 970.948.7530 Ed Foran | 970.948.5704

AspenSnowmassSIR.com

Aspen | 970.925.6060 Snowmass | 970.923.2006 Basalt | 970.927.8080 Carbondale | 970.594.7800