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VOL.15, NO.2
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More than 125,000 readers throughout Greater Baltimore
From CPA to haute chocolatier
FEBRUARY 2018
I N S I D E …
PHOTO BY AARON LEVIN
By Carol Sorgen As Valentine’s Day approaches, lovebirds will line up for chocolate-covered strawberries at Ruthie Carliner’s evocatively named Velvet Chocolatier shop in Stevenson Village. Her chocolates can also be found at Whole Foods, and Oprah included her creamy sea salt-topped caramel cups in her list of “favorite things” back in 2011. But Carliner’s calling in creating decadent desserts is a far cry from her original career path. As a young wife and mother, Carliner, a CPA with a master’s degree in taxation, worked for her father, Stanley Penn, owner of Penn Pontiac GMC Truck. After his death in 1997, Carliner took over the business. Under her leadership, it grew into the largest GMC commercial truck dealer on the East Coast. But when the economy took a nosedive in 2007, a “stressed out” Carliner decided it was time to move on. The only problem? She had no idea what to do — until a class on chocolate turned her life around.
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A scientific interest Carliner was always an enthusiastic baker and “a lover of all things chocolate.” And more than that, “I loved the science and math of it,” said Carliner, 56. “There’s a precision to working with chocolate that appealed to me.” And as opposed to other forms of baking, chocolate-making is also well-suited to Carliner because it doesn’t call for heavy lifting. “I’m tiny,” she said. “I can’t lift pounds and pounds of sugar and flour.” Carliner, who lives in Owings Mills, began refining her chocolate-making skills at home, first learning about the different types of chocolate and different customer preferences. American chocolate, for example, includes added sugar, she explained. European chocolate makers generally use less sweetener, and prefer using honey. After much trial and error, Carliner developed a product she thought would appeal to customers, and began “peddling” her candy from store to store. She soon found a home for the treats at Whole Foods in Mt. Washington. That brought her to the attention of the Whole Foods’ national distributor. That, in turn,
ARTS & STYLE Chocolate-maker and businesswoman Ruthie Carliner shows off some of her signature creations at the Velvet Chocolatier shop in Stevenson Village. Her candy has found a home at Whole Foods, and Oprah named it one of her “favorite things.”
led to Carliner’s chocolates being noticed by Oprah Winfrey. “That put us on the map, and opened us up to all sorts of possibilities,” said Carliner. The Velvet Chocolatier’s moniker was suggested by one of Carliner’s best friends, and the theme is carried out through the brown velvet ribbon that adorns every box of chocolates.
Focusing on quality Carliner prides herself on the fact that her handmade chocolates are gluten-free, kosher, contain no liqueurs or other additives, and are as sweetener-free as possible. The only time she uses added sweetenings are for her ganaches (fillings made from chocolate and cream), caramels and toffee. Enthusiastic young college students,
like Sarah Hewitt, help Carliner turn out such specialties as cashew chews, sea salt chocolate caramel cups, barks, truffles, chocolate-dipped potato chips, and her latest creation, chocolate “spoons.” Hewitt, Carliner’s longest-working staff member, became a part-time employee as a college freshman and is now a graduate student in psychology at the University of Baltimore. “I want to grow the business so Sarah will stay!” Carliner said. For Hewitt’s part, what began as a way to earn some money in college has turned into a true passion. The two often work side by side. Enter the shop, and you’ll see them clad in gloves and aprons, busy toasting nuts, tempering the rich Guittard chocolate, See CHOCOLATE, page 29
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