jin yimeng
capital cocktails
transformers
2013/08
Rediscoveri the Great W ng all S e Beij ing's Wo of theeW n er orld in New Wd ays
lo m ok fi or in rs e s i Fe t b on de st ur ou fo iv g r r al er
japandroids
2013/08
ECOLOGICAL ECONOMY CN 53-1197/F ISSN1673-0178 8
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ECOLOGICAL ECONOMY 生态经济(英文版) 主管单位: 云南出版集团公司
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August 2013
CITY SCENE
What’s Happening: Our pick of the best events of the month Stat: Just how many parking spaces does our city need? Going Underground: Chongwenmen, Lines 2 and 5 Scene & Heard: Go on, look at yourselves, you beautiful people
COVER FEATURE
Rediscover the Great Wall. Read the story of two 19-year olds who walked the whole length of the Great Wall and how you can experience their adventure with an exclusive tour. Also, we give you the scoop on the most exciting Wall activities available. It’s not all for tourists, you know
Food & Drink
Go
MEET
What’s New: Modo Urban Deli, Pie Squared, The Horizon Chinese Restaurant, Bantu, Alibi, Xiao Ju Courtyard, Whisky Bridge, Au Goulot, The Minibar Dining Feature: DIY Chinese Sandwiches Just Desserts: ViVi Dolce Gelato Last Orders: Matt Wong of Two Guys and a Pie Back For More: Haru Teppanyaki and Sushi Bar Alleyway Gourmet: Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken Wokipedia: N is for … niunan, nong, nuomi, nen Taste Test: Toothpaste Dining Q&A: Chef Santosh Jori, Director of Kitchens, The Westin Beijing Financial Street Drinks Feature: Beijing Exclusive Cocktails Cocktail Profiler: Gordon Kutil of The Big Smoke Bistro … plus what we’ve loved eating this month Inspect-A-Gadget: Tools for Short Trips What’s New Venues: Wing Fung Bicycle Company, Nostalgia Feature: Get your Transformers vocab down for Cybertron Con Page Turners: Apologies to My Censor by Mitch Moxley Get the Look: Board shorts are all the rage this summer Giveaways: Crowne Plaza Beijing Park View Wuzhou, Westin Beijing Financial Street Senses Restaurant, Wahoo, Ravioli Factory Uniformity: Stephen Leonelli, Beijing LGBT Center Feature: Jin Yimeng, Writer/Director Bookshelf: Qi Zhai, Yoga Instructor A Drink With: Michael Ohlsson, Owner of Dada Q&A: Japandroids Screentime: Stefen Chow, Photographer
ECOLOGY What you shouldn’t miss this month EVENTS FUN AND GAMES Win great prizes, plus Peking Man struggles with a moral dilemma month’s cover features Gael NEXT MONTH: SEPTEMBER This Thoreau and Moeda Hoefnagels of Beijing Sideways. Photography EVENTS BICYCLING by Mitchell Pe Masilun. DEADLINE: BEIJING AUGUST 12 Feature: William Lindesay sees the Great Wall not just as a historical monument, but as wilderness that needs protection
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The most important dates this month
WHAT’S HAPPENING 21
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With his merry arsenal of surrealist imagery rooted in heart-on-sleeve romanticism, Owl City will be in town to melt your heart and move your body with his sincere approach to electronic dance music.
Get crunked, wear your swag, then drop your ahem ... at Miami rapper Pitbull’s first ever show in Beijing. He will heat up the stage with his Latin inspired beats, and booty-wooing flavor.
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Haze Out and Haze Out #2 were both massive events. What could possibly go wrong at Haze Out #3 (in the park)? Wing your way to Tianjin with the Haze crew and get down in the Canal Park with a vintage twist.
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Daniel Savio coined the word, Limonious defined the sound. Now skweee is the intoxicating new sect of dance music sweeping across Sweden and soon to be slamming into Dada.
Pet Shop Boys have achieved a lot during an illustrious career spanning over 30 years (see p62). And having played all over the world, bringing the Beijing MasterCard Center to life would certainly be another accomplishment of note.
Get appallingly colorful while embarking on a five kilometer run in high summer. But worry not; you’ll be happy as a sandboy after completing the “happiest 5K on the planet.” And just when you think it’s over, the finish line marks the start of a “Color Festival” party!
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Release the punks! Who knows what will happen when Beijing’s top punk outfits are unleashed on 2 Kolegas for the ten-year anniversary festival. Expect plenty of big colorful hair, tight jeans, and sleeveless denim.
Psytrance shaman Paul Taylor takes you on an audible journey to the deep inner spaces of consciousness, with genuinely contemporary music for those with the most discerning taste.
It’s the summer of the burger, and by the time you read this it might just be clear who the final eight are in this year's the Beijinger Burger Cup. Said eight will gather at BCIS on this fateful day to decide, once and for all, whose patty is peerless.
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Experience this fantastic retrospective of an artist that not only became the voice of a generation but also changed the face of music forever. Expect a highly dramatic spectacle of imagination and artistry at Michael Jackson The Immortal World Tour by Cirque Du Soleil.
For more events, see p73.
Visit www.thebeijinger.com for more details.
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Start as you mean to go on
CITY SCENE CHONGWENMEN // JOKES // NEWSBITES // SCENE & HEARD
2.5 million
Beijing will need new parking spaces in the next two years if it is to keep pace with car ownership.
Letter from the Editor
I
t can or can’t be seen from space, if you don’t visit you’re not a real man or a real Chinese, the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat. We know all that. We were bored with the Great Wall of China too, if it’s somehow possible to become disinterested in having one of the greatest construction feats of human history in Beijing’s backyard, a relic that serves as a historical monument, outdoor recreation area, and scenic viewing platform. Then we realized we were looking at it all wrong, and thought it was time to rediscover it, to make it great again. So we moved away from the tourist throngs, got out where the Wall is wild, and tried to look at it from every possible new angle, and experience it in every new way. We flew over it, rode a horse on it, slid down it, dived under it, took a bicycle and sidecar motorcycle around it, had a picnic on it, made glass next to it and walked quite a bit of it for a good cause. Along the way, we met two of the Wall’s greatest explorers, William Lindesay (see p. 71) and Eddie Davis (see
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p. 12). Lindesay made three separate journeys to walk the Wall’s entire length, and has emerged as its greatest protector. Clark and his friend Beau Bacevicius spent 106 days traipsing from Jiayuguan, in Gansu province, at the Wall’s westernmost point, to Shanhaiguan, the Wall’s eastern sea terminus, the only known people to make one continuous journey across its length. Inspired by these crossings and with our guide, we invite you to begin your own rediscovery of Beijing’s greatest landmark. Beijing’s music and cultural calendars are quite full this month, with The Pet Shop Boys, Pitbull, and Cirque du Soleil’s Michael Jackson The Immortal World Tour in town. Visit our the Beijinger website [www.thebeijinger.com] or see our Events section to get in on the action.
Steven Schwankert Managing Editor
August 2013
generation gap I can see the Great Wall from up here
Really? I’m made from bits of it
tell us a joke
photo: courtesy of Kenny Cao
Kenny Cao
Owner, Concertino Q: What did one wall say to the other? A: Meet you at the corner. Head to Concertino to check out Kenny’s boutique of vintage stereo equipment and art supplies.
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NEWSBITEs There’s a new video parody in town: expats Mark Griffith and Andrew “Big Daddy Dough” Dougherty dropped their music video “Beijing State of Mind” to much positive feedback. Princess Fortier plays Alicia Keys. Hitting up famous locations around the city, rhyming and crooning about life in Beijing, Dougherty touches on clichés including sanitary habits, scooters, and the smell of the subway. Society used to complain a lot about spinsters, now it’s about the leftover men crisis. In 2012, 117 males were born for every 100 females. Many Chinese men have reported they are unable to find a wife. By 2020, their numbers could increase to as many as 30 million. According to the world’s premier wine industry gathering Vinexpo, studies show China’s consumption of white wine grew by more than 53 percent between 2007 and 2011. The organization predicts growth exceeding 56 percent from now until 2016.
rate of just 18.3 percent. They say three factors have affected Capital’s performance: growing demand for air travel; a high military to civilian air use ratio (80 to 20); and poor seasonal weather. The term “Diaosi” (an insult for a poor, young slacker – aka a loser) went viral on the Chinese web. Diaosi is being used more and more by Chinese netizens who face everyday struggles and hardships vying for status and success. Xinhua reports that Beijing’s taxi booking center has integrated eight smartphone apps into its service. Tipping functions on all eight have been removed to avoid concerns of “covert negotiation of fees” raised by apps like Didi Dache and Yaoyao Zhaoche. Unregulated apps not included in the service are banned in the capital, officials say, announcing that they plan unveil an app of their own.
of the cost of driving. A g ro u p c a l l e d World Grassroots Alliance for Paws in China (catchy, right?) claims to have freed eight dogs rounded up by police during the recent crackdown on large and “dangerous” breeds. Two healthy dogs were taken to an“undisclosed location” while six others were sent to a local animal hospital after their release from a local police station. If Beijing’s air doesn’t kill you, your bubble tea might. A recent probe into drinking straws sold by Shanghai’s Yu Garden wholesalers found that 90 percent of drinking straws did not meet quality standards. According to Xinhua, some straws could contain hazardous materials that could dissolve into your drink, causing harm to the digestive system, premature sexual development, infertility or even cancer.
Beijing’s drivers will be happy to hear plans are underway to introduce express shuttle buses to carry people along customized routes from home to work this September. Passengers will pay a monthly fee to reserve a seat on the Wi-Fi-equipped buses, which are estimated to cost about 30 percent
Good news for anyone hoping to start up an early morning tai qi habit: According to Xinhua, Beijing will have 15 more “leisure parks,” covering more than 200 hectares (1.24 miles), by the end of the year.
Coming soon: 15 new places to be leisurely
No glove, no love. According to Bloomberg, China’s condom market will grow by approximately 60 percent in the next five years, as a growing percentage of Chinese youth engage in premarital sex. This is definitely good news, as The Atlantic reports that new AIDS cases in China grew almost 13 percent in the first ten months of 2012, compared with the same period in 2011.
Flightstats.com named Beijing Capital International Airport the most delayed airport in the world, with an on-time departure
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going underground
Chongwenmen, Lines 2 and 5 Selling Point Once the southeastern gate into the old city, Chongwenmen bustled with car tloads of goods and especially wine, flowing to and from the capital. Now the shopping centers south of the station help keep the bustle alive. Trade Head south from Line 5 exit C2 and ease into a day of shopping at Glory Mall. A relaxing and fashionable environment is punctuated by a five-story, man-made waterfall in the center of the building. Facing the waterfall, a 20-square-meter LCD screen has taken the role of the ancient tradesmen who once advertised their goods at the gate, telling you what products are hot and to buy, buy, buy. Across the street things get busier at the New World Shopping Mall which houses a host of youth fashion boutiques and a giant underground supermarket. Shopping here at rush hour is to be avoided as the crowds can be unbearable. Sightsee While buying and selling has always been the theme of the area, the history of Chongwenmen is best remembered by the Ming City Wall Park. The wall was refurbished using traditional lime and plaster and contains many of the original bricks, which were returned by residents who were using them in their homes. Even more culture awaits park visitors at the wall’s eastern end. Dongbianmen Watchtower, another former gate to the Inner City, now houses Red Gate Gallery, which regularly holds art exhibitions. This area is also home to many of the sights mentioned in Paul French’s best-selling Midnight in Peking. Walk to the north side of the subway station and enter Beijing’s former badlands, a mix of colonial architecture and former dance halls, bars, and other venues of ill repute, like embassies.
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SCENE & HEARD
Ten chilli-chomping warriors battled it out in the ultimate taste bud endurance test at Canadian International School of Beijing on June 29. Photos by Lova Beer enthusiasts gathered at Galaxy Soho on June 21 and 22 for the Second Annual Beijing Craft Beer Festival, which featured a stellar selection of craft beer from local breweries. Photos courtesy of Liz Phung, and James Munro
Independent label Sean Suen showed off their FW2013 collection at Eastation Gallery on May 29. Photos courtesy of Liquid Element
Approximately 1,000 people showed up to ‘dazeFEAST 2013 at 2 Kolegas on June 29 to feast on lamb and dance outdoors to a lineup of local rock and folk bands. Photos by Frank Yu
The Peninsula Beijing unveiled their new rooftop bar and lounge Yun on June 14. Photos by Mitchell Pe Masilun
Haze Out returned on June 22 for a second all-night party under the stars. Photos courtesy of Haze
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SCENE & HEARD “Fifty Shades” isn’t a great book, but Haze made sure it was one heck of a party on June 29. Photos courtesy of Haze
DJ Dayle dazzled the dance floor at GT Banana’s Cybertron Electro Storm party on July 12. Photos by Kristina Parchomchuk
Five speakers shared their thoughts on relationships between themselves and the city at 751 D-Park on June 13. Photos by Frank Yu
Today Art Museum hosted the 2013 Martell Artists of the Year ceremony on June 15. Photos courtesy of Martell
Steely Heart, Queen Sea Big Shark, Nova Heart and other local acts performed at Yugong Yishan on July 9. Photos by Kristina Parchomchuk
Travers Nash exhibited an innovative form of making music using the Mindflex toy from U.S. game maker, Mattel at Zajia Lab on July 13. Photos by Jessica Rapp
Electronic music producer TNEM kept Lantern’s dance floor bouncing with bass on June 13. Photos by Jessica Rapp
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106 Days
Relive two boys’ expedition traversing the Great Wall, then use our guide to start having adventures of your own
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photo: Courtesy of Newmantours.com
n June 3, 2000, Beau Bacevicius, a 19-year old from Michigan, kicked what he thought was a paper cup. When he realized it was a piece of skull, he and his friends, Eddie Davis and Zhao Jianwen began scouring the area for the rest of the body. They were on a stairwell that climbed a four-story high bed of rocks. It was the foundation for a railway track that crosses the Great Wall of China at what is traditionally considered its most western point, Jiayuguan, in Gansu province. Eddie, also 19, Zhao, 42, and Beau were starting a journey that had taken three years to plan. This was a dream seeded in the adventurous spirit of two high school boys — to traverse the whole length of the Great Wall on foot and be the youngest people to ever do so. Over Christmas,1998, Eddie invited friends from the US to come visit him in China. Beau was one of them. He was a buff outdoorsman or “mountain man.” One day, the two teenagers climbed the harrowingly steep section of Simatai. “I couldn’t do it all when I was 15, I was too scared. My grandfather scared the crap out of us. Telling us if we fell we’d have to get air-lifted to Hong Kong,” Eddie recalls
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with a chuckle. Two years later, by the steep precipices of that 16th tower, Eddie turned to Beau and said, “I wonder how many have walked this thing before? Would you walk it with me?” Beau answered: “I’d love to do that.” On the first day of the trek, after Beau kicked the skull fragment, the boys found two human leg bones wrapped in leathery skin. It was an omen for the hikers. Eddie explains, “To us it was like the guy was doing the same journey but from the other direction and couldn’t make the last steps before giving up. Or maybe he just got whacked and somebody dumped him there. The value for human life isn’t the same out there as it is back home.” Setting off through Gansu they fought sandstorms and dehydration. The blisters never stopped forming and the pain, especially in their hip joints, was constant. They were routinely stopped by military police. Many parts of the Wall run through restricted military zones. Eddie remembers, “One time we watched tank exercises. They were literally taking jumps off the Wall and driving through it!” Walking the Wall was physical torture and a mental battle. But the pain of planning the trip and getting moral support beforehand had already scarred Eddie’s subconscious. Along the journey he had a reoccurring nightmare: He
was back at home in the US, trying desperately to explain to people why he didn’t finish. Consciously, the thought of stopping never crossed the hikers’ minds, but deep inside, the idea of stopping had become Eddie’s greatest fear. The biggest planning hurdle was getting permits to pass through the military zones that had set back another Great Wall adventurer, William Lindesay, over a decade before. Up until they landed in China with all their gear, the two boys worried. “Beau would call me up and say, ‘Dude, this just isn’t going to happen,’” Eddie remembers. “And it’s not like back then there was a government bureau for ‘Walking the Wall.’” Zhao, their 42-year old companion, was a friend of a friend of Eddie’s grandfather. He was a CCTV actor and convinced the station to apply for a permit. A ten-page letter was written to the government proposing the trip should be allowed for the purposes of shooting a friendship documentary between the US and China. Eddie describes Zhao as handsome and stocky. “He looked liked an actor. He carried a comb with him in the desert and would stand on dunes combing his hair in the wind. We had boots and he wore Li-Ning tennis shoes. We made fun of him, but I’m convinced there was more to his history than he let on. For the type of marching we were doing he was fast and strong at his age, even Beau had trouble keeping up with him.” The permit came in the shape of what Eddie calls a “magic red book filled with stamps.” When they were stopped by police, they showed the officers the book and were greeted with salutes and warm smiles. On day five of the journey, Zhao rolled his right ankle. It was either broken or fractured. He walked on the injured bone for 30 days before succumbing to the pain and was hospitalized to have liquid removed from his left knee, which had been carrying all of his weight. He trailed the boys by train and bus and carried their equipment before rejoining the last leg of the journey. They had over packed. They thought they would need to survive days outside of civilization. Their bags were filled with cooking gear, gas, cameras, film, and even floppy disks for a first generation digital camera. But not a day passed when they didn’t see a village. They were greeted warmly with “Hello!” and “Foreigner!” Some people were so shocked to see them they couldn’t even utter a word. The team pitched their tents in backyards and behind walls that faced west so as not to get woken by the sweltering heat of the rising sun. They slowly jettisoned their redundant equipment, sending it back to Beijing
“Tanks were literally taking jumps off the Wall”
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in packages. Their rucksacks were filled with peppers, cucumbers, boiled eggs, sausages and instant noodles that they ate raw. One night their camp was set up outside a village. Zhao woke them and said, “You have to see this.” Eddie and Beau rolled out of their tents. The moon was full and illuminated the shape of the Wall. They could see silhouettes holding rakes and shovels searching the area. “Who knew what they were after?” Said Eddie, “That was probably the closest we ever got to getting robbed.” The journey took them through the deserts and
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into the blue emptiness of the sea. The sound of the water beating against the Wall sent chills through my body.” When talking about some of the frustrations of his last nine years doing business in China, Eddie relates back to his experience, “There’s nothing that really matters that much. There’s nothing really for you to get worked up about. Time goes by so fast you just don’t have time to spend worrying about stuff you don’t have control over. When you’re out there and you’re on the Wall and you’re against the elements, you’re totally out of control, there’s nothing you can control except for yourself.” On Sep 8, Newman Tours will be offering a chance to experience the Great Wall with Eddie Davis. This one-off tour will take place from 10am-7pm. RMB 980 (adults), RMB 780 (children under 14), www.newmantours.com.
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photo: Courtesy of Newmantours.com
steppes of Gansu, Ningxia and Shaanxi before entering richer foliage in Shanxi and Hebei. The Wall is made of whatever materials were available in the area during the time of construction. The western section is mainly layers of earth and reed and has some of the tallest watchtowers on the Wall, as the area around is so flat. In Shanxi they saw the first brick tower. In Hebei the overgrowth was so thick they could barely see the bricks and were sometimes forced to walk around. When the sunburned hikers with scraped knees walked through the tourist section of Mutianyu they were approached by one tourist who asked, “Wow. How long have you been here?” Eddie answered, “The beginning.” Family and friends greeted them when they arrived at the “end,” the eastern tip of the wall that juts into the Bohai Sea at Shanhaiguan, or “The Dragon’s Head.” In an article he wrote for Michigan State University’s alumni magazine, Eddie describes the feeling: “September 20, 2000, just as the sun set over the Pacific Ocean, Beau, Zhao and I arrived at “The Old Dragon’s Head.” A feeling of contentment and relief swept over the three of us as we touched the end of the Wall and gazed off
The Great Getaway Experience the Great Wall from another angle
photo: the schoolhouse at mutianyu
T
he Great Wall. It’s like the Statue of Liberty for New Yorkers, the Tower of London for Londoners: been there many times, done that many times, won’t go there again until the next relative or friend shows up in town, right? But that’s missing the point. Not everyone lives within driving distance of an honest-to - goodness, fully-interactive Wonder of the World. Alone in the Forbidden City? Maybe at closing time on a winter’s day, but having the Great Wall all to yourself, rediscovering it in new, cool ways, as Beijingers, that’s something we can do every weekend. So, go back to the Great Wall and see it anew: alongside, underneath, overhead, on your own or with someone you love.
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CYCLING ADVENTURES Remember why you love your bicycle. Serk is leading scenic cycling escapes for those in need of some tranquil quality time with their two-wheeled friend. Take your pick from 11, 35, 70, or 100-kilometer rides through rolling hills, where you’re likely to go an entire day without hearing a car horn. For families, cycling newbies and those who just want to chillax and take in the sights, the shorter rides can be taken at your own pace and followed up with an optional hike along the Jiankou section of the Great Wall. Show-offs and pros can race over the last hill, win bragging rights and a chance to be the first one with a cold beer in hand. Riders from first to last will have their efforts rewarded
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with a gourmet BBQ lunch. Bikes are available for hire if you’re lacking wheels or just want an upgrade. The price is RMB 500 and includes transport for you and your bike, guides, back up support, lunch and access to the base camp. Allison Reibel S e rk 40-2 Beixinqiao Santiao, Dongcheng District. (134 2647 4634) 东城区北新桥三条 40-2号 Upcoming Dates: Jul 20 (Summer Escape) Aug 17 (Summer Escape) Sep 14 (Summer Escape) Sep 19-21 Oct 3-5
Hainan Air Beijing Capital Helicopter (5915 6745, 133 5201 5985, pangrui@hnair.com) SIDECAR RIDES Vroom vroom … Feel the wind in your face and live dangerous biker fantasies as you zip along the wild Great Wall in a Beijing Sideways motorcycle sidecar. Travelling from the north of the city, you’ll get a quick stop at the Silver Pagodas then weave through small villages before you arrive at the remote locations of either Huanghuacheng or Shengtengyu. From there, stretch your cramped legs with a hike along untouched ruins and tame the adrenaline rush with a quiet French picnic on the highest tower before you suit up for the ride back. A two-day option continues with a stay in a guesthouse followed by a thrilling ride back through the city and a classic Beijing tour. Beijing Sideways’ tours are all taken with an expat insider who is well informed on local history and geography. You will be driving with your guide in the Changjiang 750 motorcycle, a Chinese copy of the Russian M72, developed during WWII. Prices range from RMB 2000-4200 depending on which tour package you choose. And for an extra RMB 600, you can enjoy a bottle of champagne with your picnic. Nick Richards
photos: mitchell pe masilun and courtesy of Organizers
HELICOPTER RIDES This is the closest you’ll get to seeing the Wall from space. Helicopters taking off from Badaling Airport will give you breathtaking bird’s-eye views. Flying over the peaks and valleys of the Badaling Scenic Area, see the main section of the Wall snaking its way through the hills. Then, if you’re lucky, a pass over Guanting Reservoir may reveal flocks of migrating birds, 150 different species of which make a home every year here, the largest wetland in Northern China. The last piece of scenery this flight offers is the majestic plains of the Kangxi Grasslands. Try to spot herds of sheep cattle and the odd fox or two before your ride tilts and swooshes around to take you back for a safe landing. Run by Beijing Capital Helicopter, a member of Hainan Airlines Group, these tours are one of a kind. The company is the only one in Beijing fully-certified for aerial tourism and their tour helicopters, the AS350B3 Squirrel and EC135 Eurocopter, are stable and plush. Be sure to arrive 40 minutes in advance, fasten your seatbelt, stay away from spinning rotors and prepare for some brisk winds – ladies, watch your skirts.
Prices range from RMB 1,500-3000 for flight times varying between ten and 30 minutes. Call or email for more details. Nick Richards
Beijing Sideways (139 1133 4947, book ing@beijingside ways.com, www.beijingsideways.com) CHINA AIDS WALK Walking the Wall this year can help make a real difference in your community. Now in its second year,
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relax at the red capital ranch
fly over the wall in a helicopter learn glass blowing at the schoolhouse
slide down mutianyu
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GLASS BLOWING At the Great Wall? That’s right, resident glass blowers from The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu give regular demonstrations of this artisan craft. Visitors can watch, free of charge, as sand and other ingredients are melted in a furnace. A blow pipe is then used to fill the molten glass with air – creating bubbles that are dyed and eventually shaped into fine works of art. This is Beijing’s first and only hot glass shop open to the public. Private demonstrations can be booked and custom pieces made for a fee. Call 6162 6287 for more details. Elizabeth Wu
walk for the community
The Schoolhouse at Mutinayu 12 Mutianyu Village, Huairou District. (6162 6506, info@theschoolhouseatmutianyu.com) China AIDS Walk is a massive awareness and fundraising campaign that culminates with a hike on the Great Wall on October 12. The goal of the project is to have the public actively participate in the fight against HIV/ AIDS and against the discrimination of people living with AIDS, rather than just passively absorb information on the issue. Over the coming months a largescale fundraising initiative will be rolled out throughout the city and everyone is welcome to become involved. Guidance will be provided to all participants, with training on appropriate methods for reaching out your community and teaching people about HIV/AIDS related issues. Last year’s walk raised RMB 150,000 that was donated to people living with AIDS and awareness groups. You can help this year’s AIDS Walk raise even more funds by becoming a participant. Contact the project for more information. Nick Richards China AIDS Walk (info@chinaaidswalk.org, www.chinaaidswalk.org)
THE MUTIANYU SLIDE Besides the usual cable cars and “I Walked the Wall” T-shirts, the renovated section of Mutianyu has one tourist attraction worth giving a whirl. Wheeled toboggans can be driven down a 723-meter chute that spirals down from the Wall. A nice climax to a day of sightseeing, this attraction certainly helps this section stand out from other tourist traps, when you’ve no choice but to play guide to visiting friends or family. Mutianyu is a picturesque, albeit touristy piece of Wall that was crucial to the defense of the city. It is 22 kilometers long with 22 watchtowers. You can take the cable car up and slide down for RMB 60, or do a return slide journey for RMB 80. A direct bus, the 867, leaves from Dongzhimen at 7am and 8.30am everyday and departs back to the city at 2pm and 4pm. Alternatively, take the 916, which leaves from Dongzhimen every 15 minutes, to Huairou and cab it to Changcheng from there. Nick Richards
ROMANTIC PICNIC For intimate dining on the Wall, head out to Red Capital Ranch, a restored Manchurian hunting lodge and request the picnic. A simple Tibetanstyle lunch will be provided for you to
www.mutianyugreatwall.net
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dive the great wall at panjiakou
Let the horse do the hiking take up to the turret of a nearby Wall section. From there, take in the views of mountains and streams. History brings the true magic of this historical setting to life. Buddhist shrines dot the surrounding valley, and are filled with artifacts pre-dating the Tang Dynasty. The picnic costs around RMB 200 for two. To sustain the intimacy, a night at the Red Capital Ranch costs RMB 900 for a single room with queen-sized bed. The lodge is staffed by Tibetans and offers a window into Shambhlala and Himalayan culture as well as acting as a sanctuary for dogs. Transportation can be arranged via The Red Capital Club in central Beijing. Elizabeth Wu Red Capital Ranch 28 Xiaguandi Village, Yanxi Township, Huairou District. (8401 8886, www.redcapitalclub.com. cn) 怀柔区雁栖下官地村28号 HORSEBACK RIDING Explore the outer sections of the Great Wall the way John Wayne would have. The unrestored areas of the Wall
are wild, but PTP Club guides promise the horses are mild. They’ll carry you up the picturesque mountain to hike and explore the Wall at your own pace. Then hold onto the reins as you trot back down to a cowboy lunch of barbecued fish and wild vegetables. Over lunch, wander the farmer’s courtyard, pet the dogs, and check out the swallows in their love nests. Then there’s plenty of time on the air-conditioned bus back to the city to post pictures of yourself on horseback all over WeChat. RMB 500 includes transportation, lunch, horse riding, Great Wall climbing and guide service. Reservations must be made in advance. Allison Reibel
photos: Colin lee, the organizers
PTP Club (136 9302 6428, ptpclub@163. com) SCUBA DIVING You can’t dive the Pyramids, but you can dive the Great Wall. The Underwater Great Wall is 300–400 meters worth of Wall that disappeared under the Panjiakou Reservoir in Hebei province, after
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a dam was constructed in 1977 to provide for the newly rebuilt city of Tangshan nearby. Diving the Great Wall is eerie and intimate. It’s a giant, sleeping dragon that requires the diver to swim up close for a good look. The view reveals craftsmanship and aquatic life, including tiny fish and shrimp. Water depth and temperature vary by season, but divers with even an Open Water Diver certification will be able to see parts of the Wall. SinoScuba is the only dive operator with regular departures to the Wall, this year beginning August 10-11 and continuing into October. Overnight departures are RMB 1,500 per person, including food, basic accommodation, tanks, weights and shared transportation. Steven Schwankert SinoScuba (186 1113 3629, steven@ sinoscuba.com, www.sinoscuba.com) (Disclosure: SinoScuba founder Steven Schwankert is the Beijinger’s Managing Editor)
Sip, nibble, gulp, chew, guzzle, savor, feast
FOOD & DRINK BEIJING COCKTAILS // TEPPANYAKI // LOTUS LEAF CHICKEN // TOOTHPASTE
TRY THE FRESH TASTES OF BAROLO'S NEW CHEF EUGENIO IRACI
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nibbles and sips OPENINGS AND CLOSINGS Joining the migration to the Xingfucun neighborhood, Cafe de la Poste has started a new venture called O’Steak. We haven’t yet had a chance to drop by, but this sounds like good news, well-known as they already are for an excellent steak. Taikoo Li North has a new Japanese robatayaki and sushi joint called Koyama. The menu runs the gamut from sushi to robatayaki (charcoal-based slow-grilling) to udon and soba. Everyone’s favorite absinthe dispensary, Modernista, is closed throughout August for renovations. But fear not, it’s due to open again in September. HAPPENINGS The guys over at Tavalin Bagels near Yashow have finally realized that people eat bagels in the morning, and are opening shop at 8am. Also, in collaboration with Andy’s Craft Sausages, they are offering the breakfast favorite of sausage, egg and cheese on a bagel. The Rug near Chaoyang Park launched a whole new slew of offerings including a new weekday breakfast menu, a new summer menu and brunch specials to round out their already extensive selection. In Gulou, Zajia Restaurant and Cafe has begun a new low-key food menu with a selection of freshly-made sandwiches, including tuna and bacon & egg. The Bookworm Quiz has altered its ways. No more Monday night noodle-scratching. It launched its new look Friday night quiz last month. COMING UP Home Plate Bar-B-Que owners Adam Murray and Seth Grossman officially announced the opening of a new location in Sanlitun this autumn. Chef Zach Lewison, most recently of 3sums, will be heading up the kitchen of the larger space and working to expand their menu. The boys from 京A are planning to “spice things up” in the coming weeks with more pop-ups and some “random fun events.” Stay tuned to the Beijinger website for more details.
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August 2013
Deli Delight modo urban deli
Daily 10.30am-10pm. S10-31, 3/F, Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6415 7207) 朝阳区三里屯路19号院三里屯太古里南区3层 S10-31 600m west of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)
photo: lova
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WHAT’S NEW restaurants
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he original Modo is dead; long live Modo Urban Deli. Gone are the mezzanine, the enomatic wine machines and the “small plates” concept. In comes a deli offering sandwiches, pastas, cold cuts, cheese platters, and take-home provisions like coffee, flatbread and granola. With a more casual, playful feel, the redesigned Modo seems better adjusted to the demands of Taikoo Li customers looking for a quick lunch or dinner. Start with a couple of sides. The rich, grainy black olive tapenade (RMB 18) is excellent – punchy and concentrated. White bean hummus (RMB 28) is lighter, with lemon and olive oil, cilantro, red onion and peppers all adding bite over the gentle flavor of the beans themselves. While you can’t create your own salads or sandwiches, you can customize with a choice of meat and other add-ons. The deli sandwich (RMB 58) is one highlight: slices of walnut toast stuffed with salami or smoked turkey, cream cheese, pickles, lettuce and a touch of sweetness from a berry jam, served with a variety of olives on the side. The Cuban sandwich (RMB 68) is outstanding, combining roast pork, ham, Gouda, pickles and mustard. Of the salads, the Mediterranean (RMB 58) was more authentic than the cold Thai noodle option (RMB 68), but the quinoa (RMB 58) is an interesting alternative. The chocolate brownie (RMB 48) is attractively presented on a frying pan, with vanilla ice cream, berry coulis and candied walnuts. It could have been a bit more moist, but still, not a crumb was left untouched. Glasses of house red, white and sparkling wine are RMB 38, with around ten options each of white and red by the bottle (none exceeding RMB 350). There’s a 30 percent discount on buying wines to take home. As the weather cools, we’ll be enjoying the “Grilled and Oven” section, featuring pork belly, beef tenderloin, and an andouille and chorizo sausage plate from Max Levy’s Okra Works. Until then, we’ll be soaking up the sun on the terrace. Iain Shaw Also try: Village Cafe, Mosto
sandwich and salad set
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August 2013
WHAT’S NEW restaurants
Starch Madness Pie Squared Daily 10am-9pm. 1/F, Bldg 1 (next to SWITCH! Cafe), Cathay View Plaza, 6 Xiangjiang Lu, Chaoyang District (8430 8859) 朝阳区香江路6号观唐广场1号楼1层 1km northeast of Maquanying station (Line 15)
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STROMBOLI
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pantheon dedicated to the gluten gods. Besides its quadrilateral Italian treats, Pie Squared offers salads and unique condiments. Homemade vinaigrettes for antipasto and Greek salads (RMB 38), and silky garlic cream cheese dipping sauce for their stromboli appetizer (RMB 40) add an extra taste of home. In the coming months, they will be serving pastas and sandwiches as well, and fresh sauces for pasta will be joining the carb party. From the small town pizza parlor decor, the cold case packed with Dr. Pepper and Cherry Coke (RMB 20), to the flat screen TV displaying HBO movies and ESPN sporting events, all signs point to the American Midwest. You even leave with that classic American dairy and carb-induced food coma – right before you’re shocked back into Chinese suburban reality. Marissa Kennedy Also try: Kro’s Nest, La Pizza
August 2013
photo: sui
et’s do word association: Wudaokou: students, Sanlitun: entertainment, Shunyi: suburbia. The longstanding stereotype of Shunyi as a diaspora expat pocket of the northern capital turns out to be true, but it’s not as far as you might think. While Maquanying is a stop on the shiver-inducing Line 15, it still technically lies in Chaoyang District and contains oases only a few subway stops away from civilization. One establishment of this ilk is Pie Squared, a Detroitstyle pizza parlor located in Cathay View Plaza. What is Detroit-style pizza? Imagine a chewy deep-dish crust layered with toppings ranging from fresh basil and jalapeños to hand-mixed Motown meatballs and BLT fixings. If that wasn’t enough, it’s square, creating crispy corners you and your dining companions can fight over. Co-owners Asher Gillespie, Michael Fan, and Patrick Jen also roll out a fresh, grilled thin and traditional round crust, which they also use for their stromboli (RMB 55) and cheesy breadsticks (RMB 19). It’s truly a veritable
WHAT’S NEW restaurants
No Fowl Play The Horizon Chinese Restaurant 海天阁中餐厅 Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District (8529 2188) 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭店1层 500m southwest of Jintai Xizhao station (Line 10)
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f you remember the former Horizon, clad in deep reds, you will be surprised at the utter transformation of the space. The main dining room has a distinctly contemporary feel to it – creamy off-whites and pale wood latticework. Three open kitchens face the seating area with large glass panes allowing a view into the preparation of double-boiled soups, claypot dishes, dim sum and Horizon’s signature offering, Ya Yuan Peking duck. The kitchen uses the wood of red date trees to stoke its oven and delicately impart its nuanced flavor to the duck (RMB 208, all prices subject to a 15 percent service charge). The bird can be accompanied by the usual suspects: pancakes (RMB 12 per 250g), shaobing (RMB 5 per piece) and portions of leek, sweet sauce, garlic, cucumber and white sugar (RMB 6 per set). Calling ahead is advised as roasting requires a lead-time of 70 minutes. Horizon’s scope extends beyond duck with a Cantonese bent to their menu. Selections include house specialties like pan-fried diced beef tenderloin with black pepper (RMB 168) and an excellent rendition of the standard ganbian sijidou, or dry sautéed French beans (RMB 48). It is wise not to overlook these, but the city’s eponymous poultry and its crispy, burnt umber skin are the real reason to return. Cat Nelson
photo: courtesy of horizon
Also try: Private Kitchen, Made in China
crispy duck
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August 2013
dining feature
Northern Capital Picnic Making a Sino-Sammie by Marissa Kennedy
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ummer picnics can be a drag when we can’t find all the comforts of home. No lukewarm macaroni dripping with mayonnaise, no mushy potato “salad” with relish, and no sweaty cheese and crackers. Wait a minute – it’s as if these refrigerated dishes weren’t meant to be packaged, schlepped and eaten outdoors. Luckily, we live in a country where preserved and packaged goods aren’t just a time honored brand tradition. While Beijing has the old reliables: jia jidan (egg sandwich), rou jiamo (pork sandwich), lürou huoshao (donkey sandwich) and the like, creative types can easily riff on the sandwich concept with local ingredients for a DIY picnic. Into the test kitchen we went, and here’s what we came out with.
photos: sui
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dining feature THE SAVORY
Spicy Pickled Green Beans (hóngyóu jiāngdòu 红油豇豆) While the English translation (cow pea) of this particular suan cai is quite unfortunate, it adds the essential and signature fiery pucker-inducing brightener for this sandwich.
Tianfuhao Pork Hock (jiàng zhǒuzi 酱肘子) Steeped both in culture and tradition as a timehonored brand, this meaty treat comes from the extreme shank end of the pig’s leg bone and is braised until the meat is fork-tender. If you can’t find it in your local packaged or frozen meat section, jinhua huotui (金华火腿) is an earthy. dry-cured alternative.
Lao Gan Ma (老干妈) The color of this spicy fermented black bean chili sauce is as vibrant as its taste. Combine it with a little mayonnaise to balance out the sweetness and pump up the flavor – all while giving you a kick in the pants.
Fresh cilantro, cucumber, and carrots
Flatbread (làobǐng 烙饼) The chewy, unleavened laobing is a northern capital specialty, and the base for this spicy sandwich wrap. Pile up the ingredients, swaddle them accordingly, and presto: fangbian sanmingzhi.
THE SWEET
Honey (fēngmì 蜂蜜) It doesn’t come out of a squeeze bottle shaped like a bear, but local and organic Chinese honey can be easily found and even delivered to your door. Contact Shangri La Farms (www.shangrilafarms.com) and DRW Farms ( jiyunliang@ vip.163.com) for information on delivery and product availability.
Sesame Paste (zhīma jiàng 芝麻酱) Zhima jiang is a silky, salty paste reminiscent of peanut butter. Other uses include mashing it with chickpeas, garlic, and lemon juice to make a low-budget, Chinastyle hummus.
Candied Fruit (shuǐguǒ pǔ 水果脯) Contrar y to the vaguely plastic Barbie doll flavor of the variety we find in holiday fruitcakes, these candied morsels actually taste like the fruits they prescribe to be. Try the apricot variety to add tartness and texture, or add something from the sweeter side like the preserved apple.
Sesame Bun (májiàng shāobǐng 麻将烧饼) Your standard shoabing is upgraded and sweetened with a hearty pour of sesame paste into the batter before baking.
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August 2013
Hallway Banter Bantu
Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 202, 2/F China World View, Meilin Building, 2B Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District (8587 1299) 朝阳区工体东路乙2号美林大厦2室202 1km northwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)
photo: joey guo
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WHAT’S NEW restaurants
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he whole Bantu experience turns on Sardinian olive oil. The temperate climate of the Italian island is suited to olive groves and chef/owner Robert Masili is generous in his pours of this exceptional import from his home region. On the afternoon we visited, eel (RMB 148) came atop a bed of thinly-shaved fennel carpaccio, the olive oilsoaked skin and vegetables offset by the flaky white flesh of the fish and a shallow river of fresh tomato gazpacho. The carbonara risotto (RMB 88) was decadent, although close to overwhelming in its creaminess and a touch more salt would accentuate the savory snatches of bacon and shavings of Pecorino. If you ever hesitate to eat vegetables, you learn here that the trick is simple: infuse them with olive oil. The pillow of mashed potatoes beneath the olivecrusted sea bass (RMB 178) was a convincing argument for this oil over butter, although the fish itself fell a bit flat, saved only by a sweet, earthy balsamic shallot. Have you had roasted cuttlefish before? If not, this is reason enough to order the black ink ravioli (RMB 98). Although the mains were certainly not disagreeable, come for the bookends of the meal which were standouts. Our bruschetta starter was a salty jumble of field and forest – a sloping mound of sautéed mushrooms, bacon, olives, puffs of mozzarella and of course, a liberal sprinkling of olive oil. The carrot tart is unlike the American understanding of carrot cake; it is lighter and unsullied by raisins and nuts. An excellent pistachio ice cream and a delicate cookie rolled in fennel seeds accompany and, in comparison, the shallow pool of chocolate syrup beneath it that seems merely to be Hershey’s is disappointing. But this disappointment is an exception and the excellent value of the weekday business lunch (two courses, RMB 88; three, RMB 138; four, RMB 178) more than made amends for that small transgression. Cat Nelson Also try: Cepe, LM Plus black ink ravioli
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WHAT’S NEW restaurants
No reason to Lie Alibi 吃喝现场
Daily 10am-1am. 2 Xingfu Yicun Sanxiang, Chaoyang District (6415 0108) 朝阳区幸福一村三巷2号 1.1km northwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)
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erving contemporary American pub food, Alibi is a bold attempt at a rustic home joint across from the flashing lights of Workers’ Stadium. Built on the philosophy of friends out for a good time, this is the perfect place to pre-game before dancing your tails off for the night. A metal staircase leads up to a surprisingly spacious second floor, decked out in red and black. Minimalist grey steel tables with plastic tops harken back to diner days. The menu is as straightforward as you’d expect from the décor: salads, sandwiches, burgers and hot dogs. The paprika and chili pepper salad (RMB 35) with romaine, purple leaf lettuce and thinly sliced carrot had a tangy sourness, followed by a welcomed sweetness – a
dressing made entirely from marinated peppers. The first bite of the barbecue chicken burger (RMB 35) tasted of overly soft Chinese bread, but with a second, deeper bite, the cheesy coleslaw has just the right amount of creaminess, and the bread was forgiven. The fat ass dog (RMB 35) topped with cheese and tomato was wrapped with a layer of bacon, differentiating it from a regular hot dog. Savoring the tastes and feeling refreshed from the Kentucky bourbon barrel ale (including the fat ass dog, RMB 80), I felt transported to a different place, somewhere oceans away – maybe a little bar just outside Nashville. Elizabeth Wu Also try: Let’s Burger, 3sums
photo: lova
FAT ASS DOG
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August 2013
WHAT’S NEW restaurants
Game Set Match Xiao Ju Courtyard 小局院子 Daily 10am-10pm. 40 Xiao Ju Hutong, Dongsi Shisitiao, Dongcheng District (135 5261 2965) 东城区东直门南小街东四十四条东四小菊胡同40号 800m southwest of Dongzhimen station (Line 2)
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ou must have some foresight for Xiao Ju Courtyard. But without it, we discovered that the help is gracious. Despite not calling in advance, as we discovered was proper protocol, I was assured by the manager they could have things ready if I came back in a few hours. He offered a choice between two set menus (RMB 128 or RMB 288 per person), although soon they will have up to six, including vegetarian options. Although Xiao Ju Courtyard fancies itself as ChineseFrench fusion, the standout dishes were the gourmet takes on classic Sino-staples. The secret Sichuan recipe for a fish filet in hot chilli oil was a light, flaky, boneless shuizhu yu. The spicy roast organic lamb chop was like if chuanr got a scholarship to Princeton and came back posh and polished but was, at heart, still the cool guy you grew up with. The dishes came out in a steady succession of portions small enough to add up to a cumulatively well-sized dinner. An elegant alternative to the neon-lit, flashy grease of Ghost Street nearby, Xiao Ju Courtyard allows you to kick up your feet and be taken care of. Although a hutong hide-away, it doesn’t require any complicated turns to find, and with choices kept to a minimum, the beauty of the prix fixe menu relieves you of the onerous work of decision making – or ordering in front of guests. Just remember to call a day, or at least a few hours, in advance. Allison Reibel Also try: Life List, Dali Courtyard, Dianke Dianlai
photo: mitchell pe masilun
shuizhu yu
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August 2013
JUST DESSERTS
Dulcet Delight ViVi Dolce Gelato Call 136 8138 2496, WeChat Official Account (vividolce) or Weibo (@vividolce) for events and personal delivery
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ivienne Li takes her gelato very seriously. Fresh off of heading up public relations for the Long March Space and the Ullens Center of Contemporary Art, Vivienne decided to explore her love for this sophisticated Italian take on ice cream. After two months of studying at Carpigiani Gelato University in Italy, she personally delivers her wares to businesses, birthday parties, and doorsteps in and around Chaoyang District. Although Vivienne is quite new to the dessert arts, she is already creating quite a stir. It was an incredibly hot day when I had my first taste, and I couldn’t wait to try my first cup of ViVi Dolce gelato. I began with her assortment of sorbets. The mango flavor was especially tasty. Using fresh mangoes from Hainan, she leaves the mix unfiltered so that the natural fibers of the fruit remain in the texture of the gelato. The original
flavor is intact; the only difference is the vibrant color of the frozen glaze as it sits in the freezer taunting you. The cream-based flavors were also a delight. My favorite was the strawberry, in which the puree was delicately mixed so that swirls of berry were still visible, striating the glassy folds of gelato. Prices are set at RMB 135 per 500g (special flavors) and RMB 99 per 500g (classic flavors). Vivienne has a few other ideas in the works, including gelato pops dipped in chocolate and a flavor of the week. She is a smart business owner and knows the game, but is taking her time and developing not only a dedicated clientele but also a repertoire of unique flavors, like plum sake or coffee martini , that you won’t be able to find anywhere else. Daniel Kipp Whittaker .
photo: sui
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LAST ORDERS
Matt Wong
Co-Owner, Two Guys and a Pie
Each month, we ask noteworthy Beijingers to imagine their final meal before leaving the city for good. The venue Tuanjiehu Park. Being Australian, I love my barbecues but I’ve always been too scared to start one outdoors in Beijing. As my last meal, this is a good opportunity to see if I can get away with it!
photo: lova
The starters The honey wings from Wu Ge Jichi with chilli on one side are my favorite wings in Beijing. The honey’s sweetness combined with the char from the grill are a match made in heaven. Dongpo rou from MySoup would have to be there simply because tender pork belly is one of the greatest things you could ever lay on your tongue. Main course We’d bring massive roast lamb legs and have a DIY carveup. I’d need to have one last hit of the tasty beef brisket, tendon and tripe noodles from Noodle Bar – 1949 Hidden City to wash it down. Drinks would be Chinese beers and rice wine in the bamboo flutes from Middle 8th. I’m not a big fan of baijiu but on my last night, I’m sure someone would force me to down it.
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Dish(es) from your own venue? We’d make mini party pies of our most popular pies (the Slow Lovin’ Aussie, Two Guys and a Thai and the Biggs Apple). Some sweet potato mash and gravy would pair well with the roast lamb on the spit as well! The music and entertainment Any of my musical friends would bring their instrument and we’d all sing some songs. We’d play sports and race around on the boats in the park. There’d be a knockout tournament of Looping Louie, an old kid’s board game turned modern drinking game sensation. Finally, just before the sun rises we’d make our way over to Tiananmen to watch the raising of the flags. I’ve never been but I promised I would do it the day I leave Beijing. Drop by Two Guys and a Pie to meet a couple of slow-lovin’ Aussies and eat some pie. Two Guys and a Pie Sun, Tue-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sat 11-4am. 32 Sanlitun Nan (behind Yashow Market), Chaoyang District (186 1255 7637) 朝阳区三里屯南32号（雅秀后）
August 2013
BACK FOR MORE
HARU EXPERIENCED? HARU TEPPANYAKI AND SUSHI BAR 尚水长廊铁板烧餐厅 Daily 10.30am-10pm. Unit N4-30, 3/F, Bldg 3, Taikoo Li North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6415 2112) 朝阳区三里屯路11号院太古里北区3号楼3层N4-30单元 1km northwest of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)
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mind-blowing Norwegian salmon. But it was the sushi that stole the show. The signature sweet shrimp and foie gras, caramelized at the table using a blow torch to our giddy delight, was a worthy winner. Then attention moved to the iron plate as an exquisite fillet mignon (RMB 285) was prepared with garlic and mushrooms. Almost full to bursting, the final flourish came in the form of the delightful Amy Roll (deep fried shrimp, sweet shrimp, avocado, salmon roe – RMB 108), an imaginative explosion of taste so rich, we could barely manage more than a couple of slices. While a tad on the expensive side (you can expect to pay upwards of RMB 300 per head for a good fill), Haru does offer a wide selection of value-priced lunch sets for afternoon diners (RMB 85-255), but artistic presentation, attentive service and fresh ingredients make Haru an experience worth repeating. Paul Ryding
August 2013
photo: judy zhou
hat’s not to like about teppanyaki? The social seating arrangement; the entertaining flourishes of a talented chef; the free-pour beer and sake; and best of all, the steak. Haru, located on the sleepy second floor of Taikoo Li North, is a more high-end option than some of the alternative teppanyaki joints in the district, but that’s reflected in the cost, which, while not astronomical, is higher than some of its competition. The glossy Sanlitun branch has the edge over its neighborhood competitor, Tairyo, in terms of aesthetics with its sleek minimalist interior. And unlike its rival, it also hasn’t caught fire in recent memory. We shuffled through the corridors to our spacious private room, which, aside from a sushi bar, make up the brunt of the space in Haru. Starting out with a selection of sashimi, we polished off a platter of cuts (RMB 168) as fresh as any we’ve sampled in Beijing, the highlights being the heavyweight Canadian prawn and a
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ALLEYWAY GOURMET
POULTRY IN MOTION Hangzhou Lotus leaf chicken Various locations and times around Shuangjing subway station 朝阳区双井地铁站附近（各出口处流动售卖） Shuangjing station (Line 10)
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Alas, since that crisp winter’s evening, we never caught sight (nor smell) of him again. Until today. We almost missed the chance again – ever late, and hurtling past him without so much as a glance, it was that smell, that wondrous fragrance, sweet and distinctive, that grabbed us by the nostrils and promptly turned us around. When we first tried it around six months ago he charged RMB 18. We had caught him on a stroll from Shuangjing subway station standing 50 yards east of the northeast exit. And the day we write this, he’d set up shop close to the Carrefour car park, 200 yards further east of Shuangjing subway station. He charged us RMB 30 this time, still a bargain but maybe on this sunny day we copped the summer’s day tax. Our serving suggestion? Sliced, while still warm, over lightly toasted bread with mayonnaise and black pepper. Simple and delicious. Paul Ryding
August 2013
photos: Joey guo
hen we were younger, the kids in the neighborhood would flee home for the loose change in their piggy banks upon hearing the chimes of the local ice cream van. Now as adults we’ve discovered a further sensory signpost that sends us scampering home to grab some change post-haste: the smell of the Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken Man. He frequents the Shuangjing area sporadically, but like the Scarlett Pimpernel of perfectly prepared poultry, his visits are so rare and so fleeting that the notion of “getting him next time” can mean a missed opportunity to sample his wares for an inordinate period. The idea of making Hangzhou Lotus Leaf Chicken Man the subject of Alleyway Gourmet was first pitched after we tried his signature marinated, boiled, lotus leaf wrapped and steamed chicken way back in January.
WOKIPEDIA
A N is for … … niunan 牛腩 Sliced from the belly of the cow, niunan is a piece of brisket. We don’t have a cut quite like this in the West, so there’s no exact English name for it. Niunan comes from near the tripe and looks a bit like grafted tofu skin. It’s rich and flavorful, but those of you who don’t like tendon or cartilage, steer clear. Niunan mian (牛腩面) makes a chewier version of the traditional bowl of niurou mian (牛 肉面), that staple Taiwanese dish of beef noodles. … nong 浓 You’ve come across it early in the morning, bleary-eyed and looking for a strong, compact dose of caffeine. Nong kafei (浓咖啡) is the term for espresso – essentially “concentrated coffee.” Nong can apply to tea when the leaves are many and the brew turns dark or to a drink when the bartender has had a liberal hand with the liquor. And if you’re sipping nongtang (浓汤), think a creamy pumpkin or potato pureed soup rather than a clear chicken broth. … nuomi 糯米 Nuomi, that sticky, glutinous rice, has endless forms. It’s versatile and can be transformed into two of the best things – alcohol (nuomijiu, 糯米酒) or “cake” (nuomigao, 糯 米糕). Nuomiqiu (糯米球) make appearances everywhere, from dim sum carts to street stands. These fried sticky rice balls are typically rolled in sesame seed, with warm centers of lotus or red bean paste and nicknamed maqiu (麻球), mayuan (麻圆) or matuan (麻团). … nen 嫩 If you find your meat too tough, try shouting rou bugou nen (肉不够嫩), “This meat is not nen enough.” Nen is that necessary meat word; tender or delicate, it’s the ideal state for cooked meat. Qing zuo nen yidian (请做嫩一点), “a bit more tender, please” is a kind request to the kitchen for a more succulent slice of sirloin.
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August 2013
TASTE TEST
Brush it Off Local Toothpaste Flavors for Your Grill by Cat Nelson
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n honor of America’s annual National Fresh Breath Day on August 6, the Beijinger moved office to the bathroom. If you’re looking to avoid halitosis, what’s the most delicious – or perhaps, the least offensive – cleaning treatment for those pearly whites? Read on and your taste buds might thank you.
Crest, Herbal (RMB 5.50) “Better than your average hotel toothpaste” “Smells like PineSol … PineSol means clean to me” “Tastes better than all that water we drank last month” “What part of China do you think this flavor originated in?” “Germany.” “If you brushed your teeth hard enough with this, you’d be able to speak Hokkien or one of the Fujian dialects.”
Ora2 Stripe Paste (RMB 23.80) “Looks pretty European. French. Like it went abroad or something.” “I can smell the inside of a Junior Mint on your breath.” “This one would make a great hotel toothpaste.” “It’s pretty painful. Does anyone else have pain in their mouth?”
Colgate, Watermelon Rind (RMB 4.10) “This looks like one that my dad would have.” “It smells German – very proper, serious.” “This one is that really good bubblegum flavor that the cool kids have.” “Like Doublemint?”
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Zhuyan, Pine Extract (RMB 10.80) “Smells like a pet store, the smell of lizards and saw dust.” “My mouth is numb. Is this mala?” “If the craft beer approach came to toothpaste, it would be this. ‘Oh, I put Sichuan peppercorns in it!’” “This is the one that was made in China, but by a laowai entrepreneur.” Darlie, Jasmine and White Tea (RMB 9.50) “I think this one is best for the smokers.” “I’m going to counter that. It doesn’t tastes at all like gasoline; gasoline is much nicer.” “Sitting at a petrol station, gently inhaling the fumes is much better than this.” “Vulgar.”
Zact (RMB 9.90) “It reminds me of some household product, and whatever household product it reminds me of says ‘not for oral use’ on it.” “My mouth is just saying ‘thank you.’” “I suspect this is how toothpaste maybe tasted before the Great War.”
Zhonghua, Cherry (RMB 3.50) “Grains in bread: good. Ice cream: you never know. Toothpaste: never.” “It’s a child’s nightmare.” “It’s like some of the worst tendencies in China of trying desperately hard to be American and failing.”
VERDICT “The inside of my mouth smells like an octogenarian who fell asleep in the bathtub – very shriveled,” noted one our taste testers on finishing the marathon brushing session (rinse, swirl, spit). Perhaps we’re just a bunch of boring traditionalists, but minty flavors were the main crowd pleasers. Ultimately, though, an unlikely contender prevailed. Ever wonder what the most refreshing toothpaste flavor is? Watermelon rind.
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Q&A I’m from India originally, so I like spicy food such as Sichuan and Hunan cuisine. Do you dine out for the food, or for the atmosphere? To choose a nice dining venue, I would say the quality of the food has to be very good but at the same time personalized service and ambience are also very important. Today’s modern dining environment has changed and people are more food savvy. We now live in a casual society. Casual chic restaurants are winning over patrons and white-tablecloth, formal dining is reserved for only special occasions. Despite the preference for a relaxed dining environment, the world’s palate is growing more and more sophisticated.
Like Mama Used to Make Chef Santosh Jori, Director of Kitchens, The Westin Beijing Financial Street by Steven Schwankert
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new arrival on Beijing’s culinary scene, Santosh Jori landed in the city with his family from India just this summer. A native of India but trained in French cuisine, he’s learning that Beijing offers a whole new slate of culinary possibilities. What do you like to cook most? As a chef, I like to play with chocolate because it reminds me of being a child. To me, cooking is all about passion and creativity.
It’s your day off. You’re going out to eat. Do you choose something Chinese, or something international? As I am very new to Beijing and it’s my first time in China, we are discovering Chinese cuisine on my days off. However,
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What Chinese restaurant would you most want to franchise in your home city? Considering the palate of Indians, Cantonese cuisine like Jewel here would fit in the market very well and would be very successful. When someone visits you from home, what’s the one food item you ask them to bring? Homemade pickles from my mother’s kitchen. My mom makes the best raw mango pickles which are fragrant with cloves, black peppers and jaggery. We are going to feature a “Mom’s Kitchen” concept for a month at Senses, where we are inviting my mom to showcase traditional Indian cuisine to Beijing guests. It will be a culinary journey to northern and western India. What is Beijing’s dining scene lacking, or need more of? Good quality street food that is tasty and also a good option for everyone, including the locals. What was the very first thing you ate after you arrived in Beijing? We had fantastic la mian – hand-pulled noodle soup at Senses after an almost 18-hour journey. It was fantastic to see the chef making fresh varieties of noodles serving with seasonal vegetables and meat dumplings.
August 2013
photo: courtesy of the westin beijing financial street
What’s the most memorable thing you’ve eaten in Beijing so far? Before my arrival last month, all I had heard was Beijing duck is very popular, and I loved it when I had it for the first time with my family. Chef Andy, our Executive Chinese Chef, prepared it in a traditional way and the duck was accompanied with three different types of pancakes. It was absolutely delicious.
To which restaurants do you take visitors when they come to Beijing? We have a fantastic Prego Restaurant here which is a fun Italian-dining venue at The Westin Beijing Financial Street as a first option for guests. If I want to go out and discover Beijing, then it has to be Da Dong.
p.s. we ate you Every month, we like to shine a spotlight on the most delicious dishes we’ve stumbled upon recently. In preparation for the Beijinger 2013 Burger Cup this month, we’ve been eating only burgers. Sink your teeth in! blue cheese Portobello burger The Big Smoke Bistro, RMB 68 A half-carnivorous, half-vegetarian split, this burger contains a cheese-coated mushroom on one side and a beef patty on the other. The standard lettuce and tomato accompany, along with a bright spot of chipotle mayonnaise, all on a sesame seed bun. Truffle oil French fries round out an already satisfactory plate. dry rub avocado burger The Local, RMB 75 Juicy, spicy, and fortified with half of a ripe avocado plus lots of house salsa piled on. The fixings are plentiful with onion, tomato, pickles, and a slice of cheese. Onion rings are a welcome change from the usual fries and these leave nothing to be desired – crispy, but not greasy. Frost burger Back Alley Bistro, RMB 42 Served on something more akin to an English muffin than your standard bun, this burger has a true homemade feel. With standard fixings on the side and ketchup, mustard, and mayonnaise in squeeze bottles, it immediately evokes memories of backyard barbecues in early July. cheeseburger Rumi, RMB 85 Promising cheese, sautéed mushrooms, onions and French fries, from the first bite, it delivers, and continues to impress with each subsequent mouthful. The thick, doughy bread plays a fine supporting role, holding things together and allowing you to enjoy the meat. There’s just enough moisture to keep you happy. the original burger Let’s Burger Plus, RMB 68 The beef patty comes on a toasted bun with organic lettuce, tomato, onion and pickles. The meat is juicy, the garnishes fresh and crispy and the buns pre-smeared with a bit of mayonnaise and ketchup. Fries are extra, but of the thick, steak-cut variety – a rare treat in this town.
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August 2013
Only in Beijing
CONCOCTIONS UNIQUE TO THE CAPITAL by Daniel Kipp Whittaker
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The creative blends encompass the spectrum of flavors you are likely to encounter during a night out in Beijing. So if you are willing to explore and colonize a new zone of your palette, this is a list of some of the more interesting cocktails we were able to track down, and venues where you can sample them.
August 2013
photos: mitchell pe masilun
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ith so many interesting and fresh ingredients at their disposal in Beijing, our bartenders are able to come up with some amazing and unique recipes. Featuring local ingredients, and created by local mixologists, these selections are not only delicious, but also exclusive to the capital.
drinks feature 45ml Hengshui Lao Bai Gan 45ml pink grapefruit juice 10ml Orgeat A squeeze of lime Topped with mint leaves and goji berries Cu Ju 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng District (6407 8608) 东城区细管胡同28号
hawthorn martini
Bei Bing Yang & Tequila The mixer here is a classic Beijing soda that was very popular in the 1980s and then disappeared due to a neverending lawsuit with Pepsi. Bei Bing Yang re-emerged in 2011, and is now a go-to drink and occasional OJ substitute for many Beijingers. 45ml Olmeca Tequila Blanco Topped with Chengzi Bei Bing Yang Mas 25 Beixinqiao Toutiao (behind Guijie, near Beixinqiao subway station exit B), Dongcheng District (6405 4337) 东城区北新桥头条25号 Hawthorn Martini The guys at Flamme wanted to include some refreshing Beijing flavors on their latest drinks list, so they opted for the local hawthorn fruit. They infuse a bottle of Ketel One vodka with the dried strips and shake in crème de cassis and fresh lemon. The result is a classy, alcoholic version of a candied apple. 50ml hawthorn-infused Ketel One vodka 20ml crème de cassis 15ml fresh lemon juice Flamme S4-33, Taikoo Li South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6417 8608) 朝阳区三里屯路19号太古里南区3 楼S4-33室 No Regrets In the West, wine brings to mind a weekend in the country, toasting a chilled glass over a dramatic sunset. Here, it conjures images of drunken chugging between incredible feats of inebriated dexterity. This one is right in the middle, with a nice, floral bouquet followed by a fruity kung-pow punch.
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Paloma Para Mis Otras A variation on the classic Paloma adds local organic dried fruit tea to infuse the tequila blanco, before sweetening it with whole stevia leaves. The tea lends an earthy bitterness for the sweet and sour to rest upon. 45ml dried fruit tea Agavales Tequila Blanco 60ml fresh grapefruit juice 15ml fresh lime juice 15ml sugar syrup A pinch of sea salt Topped with soda water and served in a tall glass, over hand-cut ice cubes. Apothecary 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (5208 6040) 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 Jing Fling Three different flavors of alcohol to awaken your inner lao Beijing. A couple of these and you might lose control of the volume of your voice. It was only a matter of time until the foreign element discovered a way to showcase this infamous local spirit. 15ml local baijiu 15ml cinnamon infused vodka 15ml sour plum infused vodka 30ml sour plum juice Garnished with lemon and star-anise Mao Mao Chong 12 Banchang Hutong, Dongcheng District (6405 5718) 东城区板厂胡同12号
jing fling
August 2013
Smooth Crossing whiskey with wisdom
photo: courtesy of Whisky Bridge
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August 2013
WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS Whisky Bridge Daily 5pm-midnight. 2/F, Conrad Beijing, 29 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District (6584 6302) 朝阳区东三环北路29号北京康德酒店2层 500m north of Hujialou station (Lines 6 & 10)
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f I go to a whiskey bar, I like asking the bartenders to suggest a drink. Alarm bells ring when the bartender “recommends” the most expensive drink. A vacant, open-mouthed expression of terror means you should leave immediately. And nobody wants the “tour guide” who powers his way through blatantly scripted tasting notes. Hiding behind each of these depressing cases is an owner more concerned with profit than customer satisfaction. The contrast is a place where the staff speak with confidence, making suggestions that invite you away from your fallback choices. Whisky Bridge is one such venue. I reflected on this as the bartender picked out the 14-year-old Arran (RMB 95). Intrigued, I checked my usual urge for the peat-and-smoke of an Islay single malt (a ten-year-old Laphroaig is RMB 90). Sipping on that Arran, a robust, spicy and slightly sea-salty malt, I noted the restricted view from this “bridge” above the lobby of the stunning Conrad Beijing. There are windows on either side of the long bar, but people-watching opportunities are limited. Like some of Beijing’s Japanese bars, Whisky Bridge almost feels intended as a secret. I imagined the place buzzing with hushed conversations and off-the-record revelations. Perhaps I had been reading too many stories about Edward Snowden. Time for another drink. Our friendly bartender recommended Noah’s Mill (RMB 90), a 15-year-old bourbon with a punchy 57.1 percent ABV. At that strength, the flavor is sharp, but sweet and smooth enough to savor slowly on the tongue. When the glass ran dry, the bartender pulled out a bottle of Lagavulin. Excellent choice, but it was time to be moving on. A hotel bar means hotel prices, and all orders come with a 15 percent service charge. Whisky Bridge also offers quality tapas and cold cuts, and there are plenty of other drinks. Still, they named the bar for a reason – eventually, they’ll be stocking 130 reasons to visit. Iain Shaw Also try: Ichikura, Ritz-Carlton Bar
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WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS
SWAN NECKING AU GOULOT Daily 9am-midnight. 43 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng District (135 2163 1176) 东城区钟楼湾胡同41号 500m from Guloudajie station (Line 2)
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a shrine to some past period of opulence. Dim throughout, the tiny lamp on our table flickered on and off continually. The couches are dingy crushed velvet. There’s a drum kit that looks as though it was hastily stacked when the cops rushed a raging party (they do host DJs and bands from time to time). And that eternal symbol of handsome living, the rotary phone is scattered throughout. It’s dark and plush – a bit like a tiny Xanadu – and, although they’re open mornings for coffee and fresh juices (without the gin), it seems more like a space designed for the evening hours. They have a large beer selection and some nice wine choices, but we’d recommend the mixed drinks, reasonably priced and stronger than you’re likely to find elsewhere in the area. Have as many as it takes to convince you to order more fries. Allison Reibel
Also try: Drum and Bell, Nearby the Tree
August 2013
photo: mitchell pe masilun
t eight o’clock on a Tuesday evening, the songs my companion described as “French youth hostel music” were suddenly drowned out by party anthems blaring in through the glassless windows. We were sitting in Au Goulot, in the shadow of the Drum Tower, and the dancing geriatrics had just started up in the square outside. The marvelous French fries – thick cut, lightly salted, and crisp on the outside – went quickly, but we were still lingering over our drinks when the dancers’ music came on. We considered leaving, but decided to stay for another round. I had the Wagin (RMB 40), gin and fresh watermelon juice. It was refreshing and thick like some manner of alcoholic health tonic. One of Au Goulot’s affable owners overheard us deliberating the snack choices and suggested a flame kuche (RMB 50), a thincrusted pizza with bacon and onions. Au Goulot only opened in May but the place seems like
WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS
PINT-SIZED SURPRISE THE MINIBAR Tue-Sun 5pm-midnight. Corner of Dongsishitiao and Heng Jie Hutong, Dongcheng District (no telephone) 东城区东四十条与横街胡同角 300m east of Zhangzizhonglu station (Line 5)
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he first time I tried to stop by The Minibar, it was packed (five people). The second time I stopped by I couldn’t get a seat (four people inside, four outside). When I finally got in one early evening, I left pleased at my persistence. I was worried initially. Much has been made of the fact that the bar challenges (unofficially at least) for the title of world’s smallest bar, with official recognition still being sought, and I hoped that dubious claim wasn’t the only matter of note about the space. The Minibar is the latest project from Joseph Kornides – he of 12SQM, the previous incumbent to the title of Beijing’s most humble. A gimmick it may be, but the size and location of The Minibar lend themselves to a very passable homeward pit stop. It’s all there; an actual bar top, a sound system, free Wi-Fi, a sizable collection of spirits (RMB 25 mixers) ranging from the regular to the not so common (a bottle of ten-year-old Bushmills was a pleasant discovery), and a modest but varied bottled beer list ranging from Tsingtao and Corona (RMB 25, RMB 30) to Guinness and cider (both RMB 30). They even have a drop of Aussie wine (RMB 35 per glass). It wouldn’t be advisable to bring a big birthday bash to The Minibar (unless you only had three friends), but it’s certainly worth a wee look. Paul Ryding
photo: mitchell pe masilun
Also try: 12SQM, Cellar Door
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August 2013
COCKTAIL PROFILER
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ocal brewers 京A are now operating out of The Big Smoke Bistro, but the restaurant’s manager, Gordon Kutil, remains justifiably proud of his own ability to
craft a mean drink. To prove the point, Kutil invited four able-bodied drinkers over for an afternoon of cocktail creation. COLIN Interesting fact: Colin once got himself locked out of his apartment while preparing to catch a flight home. Colin made a death-defying jump to his own 19th-floor balcony, and lived.
Every month we ask one of the city’s expert mixologists to profile a selection of Beijingers based on a single snapshot and a single fact.
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Served: In a Martini glass, with a cherry garnish. “If I had to make that jump again, I’d need one of these for Dutch courage.”
To have one of Beijing’s best bartenders create a drink especially for you, email us at do@thebeijinger.com with a photo and an interesting fact about yourself.
August 2013
photos: mitchell pe masilun
The resulting drink: The Runaway Ingredients: 40ml Kettle One vodka 10ml triple sec 20ml blood orange juice 1tsp shredded ginger
LOUISE Interesting fact: Louise can both calve a cow and drive a tractor, though never has at the same time. The resulting drink: The Cow Calver Ingredients: 60ml Jack Daniels Two dashes of Angostura bitters 10ml honey Pinch of brown sugar Fresh lemonade Fresh iced tea
Basil Mint Served: In a mason jar with ice and a slice of lemon. “Calving is a bloody mess, but this is a bloody delight!”
GAVIN Interesting fact: Gavin once lived in a Mini Cooper for two weeks, surviving by selling stolen magazines. The resulting drink: The Italian Job Ingredients: 30ml tequila 15ml tequila infused with pineapple and chilli pepper 10ml triple sec 20ml orange juice 15ml fresh lime juice
30ml cucumber juice Served: In a pint glass rimmed with cayenne pepper and lime, with a straw. “This would ‘blow the bloody doors off’ – and take your head with it!”
ERIN Interesting fact: Erin once hid under a table to enjoy a cigarette in defiance of the ban on smoking in public places in Ireland. Since smoke rises, she was promptly caught. The resulting drink: Sin City Ingredients: 30ml Jim Beam 30ml Great King Scotch 10ml Disaronno 10ml lavender syrup Mixed berries
Served: In an Old Fashioned glass, with ice. “It’s lovely – my favorite of them all. The devil gets all the best drinks!”
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August 2013
Things to do, places to be, stuff to try
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What could this possibly become? p59.
TRANSFORMERS // BIKES // BEACHWEAR // APOLOGIES
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August 2013
photo: courtesy of the organizer
Watch the TAO Dance Theater China premiere at the NCPA (Aug 3-4)
Inspect-a-gadget ATP Photofinder pro Activate the Photo Finder while taking pictures with your digital camera. Insert your memory card into the Photo Finder’s card slot, and the GPS data will be synchronized and added to all the pictures on the card. photofinder.atpinc.com RMB 900 Sony DEV-50 Recording BinocularS With 0.8-25X zoom ratio (36.3-2,007mm 35mm equivalent), this compact gadget not only lets you observe objects far away clearly, but also captures 24MP stills and full HD video in both 2D and 3D. www.sony.com.cn RMB 13,980
Trip Out gear up for the great wall by Joey Guo
Victorinox Bike Tool A must-have accessory for cyclists. This gadget comes with an L-wrench, eight commonly used bits, and a pair of plastic tire levers. Stash one in a backpack alongside a tire repair kit and mini-pump, and stop worrying about tool problems during a bike trip. www.victorinox.com RMB 400
Quik Pod Smartphone This cool extendable tool lets you capture your own pictures and video without having to ask strangers or getting funny distortions. The adapter works with all smartphones. www.quikpod.com RMB 210
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Ultimate Ears BOOM Wireless Speaker In case you’re in the mood for a party on the Great Wall, this speaker lets you share music on iOS devices with impressively big sound for its compact size. Its water bottle shape fits comfortably in your hand, and it can be hung from just about anything. You can even pair two UE BOOM speakers together to double the volume. www.ultimateears.com RMB 1,500
WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops
Fit For a Wing wing fung bicycle company 88-8 Guangqumennei Dajie, Dongcheng District (139 1178 0417) 东城区广渠门内大街88-8 300m from Ciqikou station (Line 5)
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place feel more like an art gallery than a bike shop. On one wall, a single road bike frame hangs from a Cycloc hook that looks like a small trash can turned on its side, a feat of modern industrial design. The opposite wall is a showcase for Moulton small wheel, or foldable, bikes, in glistening stainless steel. A beefy mannequin featuring Swiss Compressport gear and saddles are hung as meticulously as Picassos. But they also have a laid back approach to more casual riders. Can riders bring their own bikes in for servicing? “Why not?” Joseph said. Can the curious come in for a fitting without purchasing a bike? Again, “why not?” (although the three to four-hour process costs RMB 3,000).
August 2013
photo: sui
oseph, the Hong Kong manager manning the counter at Wing Fung Bicycle Company, compares buying a bicycle to buying a coat. Everyone has their own style, color and feature preferences, but there is one thing everyone will agree on: the coat must fit properly. Before dropping RMB 44,800 (that’s the starting price – your dream machine could be over RMB 100,000) for a custom bike, Wing Fung will be sure the fit is precise. They are the only bicycle fitters in China certified by Retül University – considered the gold standard of bike fitting – a process that involves electric sensors and a training bike to analyze your exact movements and riding position. The polished floors and dramatic lighting make the
Road, mountain, cyclocross and fixed-gear bikes are all available in a variety of materials, from carbon fiber or titanium to bamboo. Joseph assures me that the bamboo is impressively strong. Why you do think construction workers use it for scaffolding? A few accessories are also available. Wing Fung plans to offer monthly rides outside the city once the weather clears up, but for now, Wing Fung is the place to go if you want to step up your bike game. And, really, why not? Allison Reibel Also try: Natooke, Serk
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August 2013
WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops
Rare Wears nostalgia
Daily 11am-11pm. 161 Andingmennei Dajie, Dongcheng District (189 1053 7410) 东城区安定门内大街161号 500m south of Andingmen station (Line 2)
photo: mitchell pe masilun
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August 2013
WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops
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ld is nothing new in Beijing’s style scene. In April, Chen Yi Lin opened Nostalgia, a shop that’s not just about wearing old-school frocks, but learning how to edit them. Located on Andingmennei Dajie, far enough away from the saturated Gulou streets that it stands out despite its narrow entryway, Nostalgia is spacious enough for not only one of the largest selections of vintage wear in Beijing, but also a project space in the back. Chen and her business partner Er Duo Liang aim to offer fellow vintage fiends a one-stop shop for customized tailoring, editing workshops, clothing swaps and even the occasional party. You know this city’s underground fashion scene is getting shaken up when the bar comes to the clothing store instead of the other way around. The owners collaborated with Dragon House Vintage on Gulou Dongdajie for some of the items in their space, so expect to find their signature ’80s nylon ski jackets, large winter coat selection and special discounts on items, including a section of out-of-season clothing for RMB 50. Customers who spend at least RMB 2,000 in one purchase are eligible to become VIPs and receive a ten percent discount on any item in the store. It’s a pretty good deal, considering that most of Nostalgia’s stock is imported from France and the UK, with a selection of shoes from Italy. If you’ve never tried to pull off vintage clothing before, Chen is often on hand at the shop and can give style and pairing suggestions. One look at her own outfits is enough to take her word. Inspired by Bu Kewen, a stylist for Chinese celebrities like Fan Bingbing, Chen is all about creativity. “I only wear basics, or underwear, from fast fashion brands,” she admits. “My outfits are always my own work or vintage clothing.” Jessica Rapp Also try: Dragon House Vintage, Mega Mega Vintage
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August 2013
feature
A five-meter-tall Transformer is somewhere near Xizhimen by Nick Richards
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ransform and roll out your inner geek. Cybertron Con 2013 will arrive in Beijing this month. Sci-fi nerds, toy collectors and comic book fiends are prepping for an epic convention celebrating one of our favorite childhood memories, now cinematic blockbusters: Transformers. Having started in the mid-1980s as a small toy series picked up by Japanese brand Hasbro – the same toy distributors behind G.I. Joe – these robots carry a lot of character and pulse with imagination. The hook for the kids was the robots’ ability to fold into different vehicles
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and weapons like planes, ambulances and guns. I can remember bending the Transformers’ joints, pulling out their heads and folding out their wings. Each character was a puzzle and the reward for solving the puzzle wasn’t quite like the matching colors on a Rubik’s Cube. It was cool to make cars transform into robots and vice-versa. The sound of crashing plastic would fill my living room as my friends waged warfare on each other’s collections. We screamed “Neeoooww! Autobots roll out.” Crash! There would be a few headless Decepticons before my father shooed us away. Soon after Hasbro picked up the toy line, a backstory was created and timeless characters like Optimus Prime, leader of the Autobots, and Megatron of the evil Deceptions were brought to life on screen and in books. The first episode of The Transformers cartoon series aired in 1984 and opens with the Autobots, fleeing their home planet of Cybertron to seek new energy sources on Earth. They fall under attack from the Decepticons and war ensues. For decades following, the story was spun into comic books, animated movies, new characters, new generations, plot lines and TV shows. In 2007, Transformers culminated in a highly successful live action film series directed by Michael Bay and produced by Steven Spielberg. Transformers’ Hollywood success is now seeping into China’s hyperactive entertainment reactor. The third film, Dark Side of the Moon broke box-office records
August 2013
here with its number one title only recently replaced by Iron Man 3, which worked hard to win over audiences with Chinese elements. To stay competitive, Transformers 4 producers are making China the main focus of the new film. Beijing locations the Bird’s Nest, Pangu Plaza and the Water Cube will be shot in the fourth Transformers film, though, as you might have seen on theBeijinger.com, not destroyed. This summer, Chinese actors will be selected on reality TV to play in the film alongside local star Li Bingbing. If that’s not reason enough to be excited by these robots coming to Beijing, imagine a five-meter-tall Transformer greeting you at The China Millennium Monument, plus extensive design workshops, cartoon exhibitions and panel discussions with top Transformers designers. While the highlights of this year’s convention have not been released, online forums are already buzzing with rumors of exclusive platinum series toys and special-edition box sets being available for purchase. We can also expect similarities to the first China Cybertron Con, held in Shanghai in 2010 which featured drawing workshops, video game demonstrations, film and cartoon screenings, 3-D action figure dioramas and even competitions to see who can transform their toys the fastest. And let’s not forget, this is a global convention, Transformers geeks from all corners of the Earth are en route to the capital for this “momen-tron-us“ occasion. The Cybertron Con 2013 convention takes places at The China Millennium Monument from Aug 15-18 and related exhibitions will continue until Oct 14. Visit the Beijinger website for full event and directory listings.
To prepare for this Beijing Transformer invasion, here are a few key characters translated into Chinese: Autobots 汽车人 Qìchē rén Optimus Prime Leader of the Autobots Alternate Mode: 1984 Freightliner Semi Truck 擎天柱 Qíng tiān zhù Ratchet Autobot Medic Alternate Mode: 1979 Nissan Ambulance 救护车 Jiùhù chē Bumblebee Autobot Soldier Alternate Mode: VW Beetle 大黄蜂 Dà huángfēng Decepticons 霸天虎 Bà tiān hǔ Megatron Leader of the Decepticons Alternate Mode: Walther P-38 威震天 Wēi zhèn tiān Shockwave Decepticon General Alternate Mode: Laser Cannon 震荡波 Zhèndàng bō
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August 2013
PAGE TURNERS
Apology Rejected Apologies to My Censor is pages of missed opportunity by Nick Skidmore
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itch Moxley, as he likes to remind his reader, is something of a celebrity in Beijing’s expat circles. An aspiring journalist who found himself taking a job with China Daily in the run up to the 2008 Olympics, the trajectory of Moxley’s transition from state-owned media press lackey to freelance writer for publications like Time and The Atlantic, is one that many dream of emulating. This transition rather neatly forms the subject of his first book Apologies to My Censor. For those unfamiliar, the fact that Moxley’s book focuses solely on his own personal ups and downs, and not those of the 1.3 billion people around him, should give some indication of the caliber of Moxley’s journalism. His is not
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the hard-hitting exposes, or the sprawling long-form panorama. Rather, Moxley made his name “chasing the rabbit down the rabbit hole,” and sending up the everyday absurdities of the China expat life itself, including writing about being a “Rent a White Guy,” and trying to make it in Chollywood – the Chinese film industry. Detailing Moxley’s first disastrous year at China Daily, Apologies’ opening chapters linger as they try to position the story of his “quarter-life crisis” and how, as the global economic downturn effectively maroons him in China, he gradually overcomes his isolation and begins to pursue his dream of being an international journalist. The details are sluggish, self-absorbed and scattered with the usual clichés: amazement at traffic jams, and masses of “pyjamaed” school children; drinking in dubious, gangsterfronted hell-holes; and making laughable comparisons between Beijing’s expat set and the Lost Generation of 1920’s Paris. But, for all the narcissism, Moxley comes across as perfectly affable. In fact, one can’t help feel a certain warmth for him. It is as though he were some kind of wayward brother. He beguiles you with stories of a life that can seem, at times, completely unbelievable and oddly blessed. When his luck seems to have turned, and he starts to find himself opportunity after opportunity – scouting out sex-trafficking stories in Mongolia, and African labor stories in Guangzhou, an affiliate pride goes along with that. The endearment to him, and his career, is genuine. Moxley’s affability is also the major problem with Apologies. The writer tries so hard to ingratiate the reader into his life and, more specifically, his motivations for eventually shunning socially-conscious journalism in favor of what he calls the more expat-centered “Chinese Neverland” stories. The book can often seem like more of a veiled apology to himself, and his reader, and what he had hoped to realize here in China. When Moxley allows for long passages laying out how he gave into “this photoshoot” or that “television appearance,” instead of following up on his earlier attempts at investigative journalism, the unintended effect often verges on excruciating. For would-be journalists, the first book is a something of a milestone. Yet, for Moxley, this first book proves merely a preening exercise. An undoubtedly entertaining, but disappointingly narrow reflection on a relatively unremarkable few years swept up in expat circles that is ultimately a squandered opportunity. Apologies to My Censor is available for purchase at The Bookworm.
August 2013
GET THE LOOK 2
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Short Changed
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by Jessica Rapp
photos: Sui
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1 Random Ransom These look like a ransom note sprinkled with Union flags. With phrases like “I’m not sure why, but perhaps I’m descended from royalty,” it’s taking language to a whole new level.
inches and you’re styling for the beach.
2 Purple Paradise Ladies, hem these a few
4 Nothing But(t) Scorpions
3 End-rear-ing We’re not sure what the Korean says, but “HOT. COM” certainly makes this pair twerk-worthy.
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on’t come up short this summer and head into autumn without having tried out a pair of these street-side, China-style board shorts. You’ve probably seen them dangling outside shops boasting 20-year-old sport apparel. That quickly scrawled RMB 10 sign dangling overhead is a good reason to snatch a pair
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Not the most unusual beach short pattern, but that isn’t the worst thing, is it? 5 Soul Mania N o t o n l y a re t h e y a soulful explosion of color, this pair has a stamp of Bob Marley in the crotch.
6 Lounging Linen A rare find among its flimsy fabric counterparts, a pair like these will keep your backside comfortable all summer long. 7 Be a Geodude Get in on the geometric print craze with a prismatic pair like this.
or two. Never mind that the tags generally indicate that the shorts are XXXL, despite their snug elastic waistbands, or that the lack of lining in the thin polyester means they could only survive a few wears. A quick trip to the tailor and a smidgeon of bravery is all you need to pull off this timeless Beijing summer trend.
August 2013
GIVEAWAYS
WAY OUT WEST More Saturday Sense(s)
RMB 1,000
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RMB 1,000
THIRD RING RAVIOLI Blues, Cheese and More
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ne might not think of a music venue as an automatic choice for quality Italian food, but that’s what seems to be happening at Café CD Blues and their new restaurant, Ravioli Factory. It’s all about pasta from Italy’s Apennine Peninsula, made with imported ingredients. To win a RMB 1,000 voucher, answer this one simple question: In what country was pasta invented? Email your answer to win@thebeijinger.com before August 15. And remember to include your contact name and phone number. Good luck!
he weekend just got a little longer. The Westin Beijing Financial Street is introducing the Memorable Moments Saturday Brunch at Senses Signature Restaurant. Featuring Western and Chinese breakfast buffets with free-flow of fresh juices and Taiwan bubble tea, it’s one more reason to go west during the weekend. To win a RMB 1,000 voucher for the brunch, send us the correct answer to this question: On what other weekend day does The Westin Beijing Financial Street serve brunch? Email your answer to win@thebeijinger.com before August 15. Be sure to include your name and phone number. Good luck!
JUST SAY JA
Oktoberfest in September
T RMB 1,000
FISHING TRIP Ritan Watering Hole
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new nightlife entrant to the Ritan Park area, perhaps known best for establishments opened by or attracting our Russian and Mongolian friends, Wahoo is one of those rare places that features not only food, drink, music and live performances, but also …fishing. Hey, why not? To win a RMB 1,000 voucher to try some fishing and food, you only need to supply the answer to this simple question: What is a wahoo? Email your answer to win@ thebeijinger.com before August 15. If you don’t include your name and phone number, we can’t declare you the winner, so don’t forget. Good luck!
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RMB 1,000
ime to send your lederhosen to the cleaners, it’s almost time for Oktoberfest again. The Crowne Plaza Beijing Park View Wuzhou gets the party started September 6-15, complete with chicken dances, German bands, grilled sausages, pork knuckle, and of course, beer. To win a RMB 1,000 voucher for this Beijing take on a Bavarian festival, there’s just one question to answer: What German city is most famous for its annual Oktoberfest celebration? Email your answer to us at win@thebeijinger.com before August 15, and don’t leave out your name and phone number in all the excitement. Good luck!
August 2013
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August 2013
Things to do, places to be, stuff to try
MEET
“Even in the ‘70s I think wearing this would have been a sin.” See p63 “I just want to make movies that make women happy." See p65 “That dude turns water into wine. Babe magnet.” See p67 “I think I cried. I lost that date. ” See p69
JIN YIMENG // JAPANDROIDS // MICHAEL OHLSSON // STEPHEN LEONELLI
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See Pet Shop Boys on Aug 22 at MasterCard Center. Visit www.thebeijinger.com for info.
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August 2013
Uniformity
Stephen Leonelli Development & Operations Director, Beijing LGBT Center
photo: courtesy of Stephen Leonelli
Tell us a story about wearing a uniform somewhere where you felt out of place. Once for a presentation at a local elementary school in Virginia, I was dressed in “traditional” Chinese clothing – a lot of bright yellows and reds in the cheap polyester stuff. I looked like one of those total white-boy China nerds. My classmate and I ended up at McDonald’s afterwards, and the staff behind the register looked really disgusted with us. It was one of those moments where I could tell he wanted to ask but the line manager must have been floating nearby. Did you ruin any of these uniforms? How? When I was a campus bus driver in university, I accidentally snagged and tore my light blue uniform shirt. At the time I thought I could make it artistic or something, so I used scissors to cut a whole bunch of different tears in the shirt. The result was a bunch of holes that made it look essentially like rags. Did you ever feel transformed by wearing any of these uniforms? If so, which ones? When I was younger, I did competitive gymnastics. Our coach warned us never to bend our knees for too long while wearing the bright red stirrups that went over our white leotards; the sensitive material could make it look
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like your knees were bent even when straight, resulting in a point deduction. So I very diligently made my legs straight as could be. I’d sit with my legs stretched out and walk like a robot. The whole ensemble made me want to transform into a gymnast with impeccable leg posture. Ultimately, though, the judge and my teammates just thought I had sh*t myself. Which uniform did you resent wearing the most? I really hated wearing the pads, helmet, and mouth guard for lacrosse. Given that, no matter what, my usual strategy for lacrosse was to just run up and down the sidelines, I rarely actually came into contact with anyone. Putting on all the gear seemed like a waste to me, really. Which uniform would be considered the least fashionable? When I was ten years old, my best guy friend and I joined a dance team along with ten girls. We all wore neon orange bellbottoms and a tie-dye T-shirt with sequins. Someone had a pink feather boa. Even in the ‘70s I think wearing this would have been a sin. Put on your beachwear and summer uniforms for the Beijing LGBT Center’s third annual fundraiser, “One Summer Night in Beijing,” at Alfa on Aug 24.
August 2013
feature Fan bingbing (right) gives jin yimeng a kiss
Box Office Surprise
Writer/Director Jin Yimeng is finding an audience with her romantic comedies by Steven Schwankert
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the maturity of the main characters, and Jin’s own sensibilities when she created them. “Sophie’s Revenge was a script I wrote ten years when I was still in the US, I was really just a girl then and the character in the film was also just a girl. Fan’s character [in One Night Surprise] is older, more experienced; she’s had a much wider experience of life.” Jin herself doesn’t face Fan’s cinematic travails, either: she’s happily married. Fan’s star continues to rise, with One Night Surprise giving her a relatively rare opportunity to be the film’s lead, not just its lead actress. She was recently named China’s top celebrity in a Forbes magazine list, and The Hollywood Reporter honored her as their International Artist of the Year at May’s Cannes Film Festival. After a cameo in Iron Man 3, and recently shot scenes for X-Men: Days of Future Past, in which she appears as Blink, and is set to star in the next Jackie Chan film. Still, one of her best known performances was her indie turn in Lost in Beijing, in which she plays a foot massage attendant abused by the store’s owner. Jin believes that lack of diversity gives her films appeal to Fan and the other top actresses with whom she was
August 2013
photo:s courtesy of Jin yimeng
an Bingbing can’t find a man? Sounds hard to believe, but the conceit carries in the latest romcom from director and screenwriter Jin Yimeng, who reasserts her box office muscle with the release of One Night Surprise (Yi Ye Jing Xi), this month, just in time for Chinese Valentine’s Day on August 13. The film follows Fan, a white-collar manager who has succeeded in business but not in love, through her encounters with three handsome men, played by Daniel Henney, Arif Rahman (Li Zhiting), and Jiang Jingfu. One Night Surprise is Fan’s second comedy with Jin, having appeared in her debut effort, Sophie’s Revenge (Fei Chang Wan Mei), which also starred Zhang Ziyi. The movie put Jin in an elite group – Chinese directors whose films have grossed over RMB 100 million at the domestic box office. Although Fan’s leading-lady looks and screen presence usually lead her away from comic roles, she’ll do them on one condition: “I’m only going to do comedies if they’re Jin’s,” she declared, saying at a press launch for the film that the director understands women and knows how to write for them. Two of the big differences between the films relate to
worked, including Zhang Ziyi and Yao Chen. “She’s very talented, and she’s desperately looking for different genre material and specifically for lead female roles.” Actresses in China are still limited by the material that is offered to them. “When there are no great characters, they can’t really unleash themselves. For female actors especially, having characters written specifically for them helps them,” Jin said. “The romantic comedy is well developed in Hollywood but not here, I want to bring that to China,” Jin said. “We don’t have many genre films at all – horror, thrillers, detective stories, teenage movies. I feel like the industry only really started [branching out] since 2009,” Jin said. The problem is not just the material, but those creating it. “Most screenplays in China are still written by novelists or by television writers, not by people who are writing specifically for film.” Describing whether she chose her male leads based on looks or talent, Jin said, “There are so many movies for men in China, I just want to make movies that make women happy.” Fan was a bit more circumspect about the men that appear in the film. “I expect all my collaborators to be intelligent and wise,” she said, not specifying any desired physical attributes. Jin said she will continue to write comedies, but wants to move on to larger fare. “I want them to be bigger, maybe fantasy comedies,” she said, with more fanciful elements. She would also consider directing material not her own. “I would love to have a great script written for me [to direct]. I get scripts all the time, but in the end it would take more time to rewrite them than to write something original,” Jin said. One Night Surprise opens in August at cinemas around Beijing.
Jin on the set of "one night surprise"
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August 2013
Bookshelf
Qi Zhai
Yoga Instructor
The book on my shelf with the most sentimental value to me is A Moment in Peking by Lin Yutang which I read when I was a homesick teenager living away from my big extended family in China. There’s a certain sentimentality to Chinese literature – and culture – that is hard to translate, which a truly bilingual writer like Lin can capture well. I’d recommend it to anyone who wants to understand Chinese history, culture, and society through fiction.
type. I don’t know if that type exists anymore!
In the bathroom I read Vanity Fair magazine. A guilty habit of “liberal” (in an American political sense) intellectuals?
The book I’d like to see adapted as a film or TV show is A Moment in Peking. I’m starting to sound like a tape recorder, but I love Chinese period dramas. Imagine lush colorful cinematography a la Zhang Yimou’s style plus costumes like in Wong Kar Wai’s films. That would be epic.
The book that changed my young life was whatever my first English textbook was. The ABCs? And the book that changed my adult life was A New Earth by Eckhart Tolle.
The character in a book I’ve had a crush on … oh, I forget his name now but one of the male protagonists from A Moment in Peking. A real gentle, kind, and scholarly
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The book I wish I hadn’t read is every German book on grammar. I really protest the standard introductory chapter assertion that “German is just like English.” It’s not!
The books I’m saving for old age – well, not necessarily old age, but for a more mentally mature age – are the Indian epics, which are also important to yoga philosophy, like Bhagavad Gita, Ramayana, and Mahabarata. It’ll definitely take me some years (maybe decades?) to learn enough Sanskrit to read the originals. The fictional “world” I would most like to be a part of is the little forest house with a lake view in Janosch’s Oh, wie schoen ist Panama! Catch one of Qi’s classes at Yoga Yard this month.
August 2013
photo: Courtesy of Qi Zhai and Liu Jiang
The character in a book who I’d like to be is Little Tiger, who often gets carried around (physically and metaphysically) by Little Bear in the German children’s stories by Janosch. Bear never gets sick. He brings home the fish and he cooks dinner. Tiger just has to gather mushrooms in the forest.
The last book I read has a slightly embarrassing title, but interesting content, It’s a Guy Thing: An Owner’s Manual.
A Drink with
Michael Ohlsson Owner of DADA
Who would you most like to go out drinking with? Jesus Christ. That dude turns water into wine. Babe magnet. Perfect wingman. Plus he’d have some interesting stories. If you could only imbibe one drink for the rest of your life, what would it be? Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. My favorite California beer. You can’t get it in China. We’ve asked, they said not until the quality control gets better here. Ouch. How old were you when you started drinking? Hmm, on a regular basis, to get drunk, I guess 15. It probably wasn’t until I was 21 that I started drinking more for taste, than just a means to an end getting drunk. We’re at the bar - what are you having? I’m very moody with my drink of choice. Depends on the weather, the company, the music. I never have beer or tall drinks after dinner. Never stout beer in hot weather. Red wine only with food. Lately I’ve been drinking our cranberry mojitos, but with vodka instead of rum. We use real fresh cranberries, which is pretty lofty for a dive bar.
photo: courtesy of Michael Ohlsson
Tell us about the last time you were drunk. I think the night we had DJ Zinc playing at Dada. I walked him back to the hotel after his gig and was talking all sorts of nonsense, bawdy tales, kind of embarrassing, then fell off my bike on Nanluogu Xiang on the way back to the bar, in front of a group of hot chicks. It was obvious that I was watching them, not the road. What’s the dumbest thing you’ve done while intoxicated? I puked on Richard Branson, just a few hours after getting hired by Virgin. I went into the office the next day real sheepish, “eh, do I still have the job?”
Herb Caen Martini. Herb was an old newspaper writer in San Francisco and famously snobby about his martinis. My grandfather made them right. Blue cheese stuffed olives, vodka not gin, and a splash of olive juice, keep it dirty. What kind of drink are you? Pinot Noir – surprising, mysterious and complex, each sip seems a little bit different, but still easy drinking. What’s your golden rule of drinking? I’m kind of a traditionalist. I like the etiquette of having rounds with friends and taking turns paying for them. And cheers only once, not every sip, that’s annoying.
Where’s the dumbest place you’ve gone drinking? Full Moon Party in Thailand. Never again.
What are your secret watering holes? I actually really like going to anonymous, generic hotel bars, especially with a view of the city. Not hip hotels. Places you know you won’t run into anyone you know, there are zero expectations, and you can sort of pretend you’re any place in the world.
You’re hosting a cocktail party what are you making?
Celebrate Dada’s one-year anniversary with Michael on Aug 17.
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August 2013
Q&A
JAPANDROIDS
DOWN TO EARTH AND NOT JAPANESE You guys are on tour a lot. How do you keep yourself entertained on the road? Being on the road is always entertaining. Playing shows is our favorite thing to do, and we are always in a new city that we have a chance to explore for a day or two. It’s a lot harder finding ways to be entertained at home, since there isn’t anything new for us there anymore. Do you get homesick? At certain points you get tired, and it would be nice to sleep in your own bed and see your friends and loved ones. But at the same time, we both know how lucky we are to have the opportunity to travel all over the world playing our music and we wouldn’t trade this for anything in the world.
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Your song “The House That Heaven Built” has been used as the Vancouver Canucks’ entrance song. How does that feel? I’m not really a big sports fan, but at the same time everybody in Canada knows hockey. So having our song as the Canucks’ song for a little while was pretty surreal, and all our friends and family were very proud and excited for us. Your last album, Celebration Rock, made several “Album of the Year” lists. What’s your favorite album of 2013 so far? I’ve mostly been listening to older stuff this year. The only new records I’ve been listening to regularly are Run the Jewels’ self-titled record, and Besnard Lakes’ Until in Excess, Imperceptible UFO. Run the Jewels is a great hip-hop record. Until in Excess, Imperceptible UFO is a lush, beautiful record I listen to when I need to block out the noise of our sound guy Lewis’ snoring. See Japandroids play live at MAO Livehouse on Aug 23.
August 2013
photo: courtesy of Andy Collins
How much do you get to see of the cities you play in? Is there anything in Beijing you’re looking forward to doing? It depends on how the tour is scheduled. Sometimes you show up, play the show, and leave the next day without seeing anything. But if you’re lucky, you have a day off so you try and see as much as you can. We actually have a day off in Beijing, which is amazing! I have no idea what
to do or what to see while I’m there. People should email us at japandroids@gmail.com and tell us what to see!
screentime
Stefen Chow Photographer
In the biopic of your life, which scene should be filmed in slow motion? It must be when I was 21. I had the girl, I didn’t have responsibilities as an undergraduate, pursuing dreams was the ideal, and I had the liver to try every alcohol out there. Slow-mo, all the way. Which character from TV/film would you most like to be? I always feel for Stewie from Family Guy. I am not really a baby with a big brain, but I guess we are close. What TV show or movie did you once love but now think is rubbish? Vertical Limit. It was a film about mountaineering in 2000. When I first watched it, I was literally like, “Wow.” Mountaineering is more exciting than Mission Impossible. I then started climbing mountains and I realized the only thing real about the movie was that too many mountaineers behave like heroes. Oh, and Free Willy. And Jaws. What TV show or movie did you have to be coerced into watching but now readily admit that you love? Modern Family. I was introduced to it by my wife who went absolutely bonkers for it, and I was lukewarm to it at first. Now it is a must-watch every time I get on a plane.
photo: courtesy of Stefen Chow
What’s your favorite film musical? Chicago! I think it was the first musical that was just more powerful because of the elaborate sets, big stars and singing. I also watched the Broadway version in New York. What movie are you sick of people saying to you: “What?! You haven’t seen it?” Too many. Especially with China’s rules limiting foreign films each year, I will go back home and miss all the great, slightly indie movies. I watched Avatar on opening day in Beijing – six months after it opened worldwide, and they opened the scene speaking Chinese. And the rest of the three hours. The Navi too. I was scarred for life. What is the slowest paced movie you still enjoyed? I really enjoyed The Artist, the 2011 French black and white silent film that won quite a few Oscars. I always enjoy it
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when there is a combination of aesthetics and storyline that is extremely compelling. I didn’t grow up during the black and white silent film era so I guess this invoked the hippie side of me. What was the first movie that you saw with a date? Was it Titanic? I think I cried. I lost that date. What movie first made you say: “Wow, how did they do that?” Lord of the Rings. The first one. I was in New Zealand in 2000 and I was training to be a mountaineer, and my instructors who told me they worked on the movie and said the scenes in the misty mountains were shot where we were training on Mount Cook. I remembered the terrain to be really rough. How did they do it with all those raggy clothes and act on a real mountain?! Who is the best cartoon dog? Dogbert from Dilbert! He is a badass. Corporate evils in the form of cutesy dogs rock the world. Catch Stefen Chow’s ongoing photo essay The Poverty Line at www.thepovertyline.net.
August 2013
ECOLOGY “NO WATER, NO LIFE. NO BLUE, NO GREEN.” – DR. SYLVIA EARLE
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August 2013
photo: Courtesy of William Lindesay
The sun rises over a spectacular section of Great Wall near Beijing.
Defender of the Great Wall
William Lindesay Sees “Wilderness That Needs Protection” By Steven Schwankert
photo: Courtesy of William Lindesay
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y first encounter with William Lindesay, OBE, was at a Great Wall cleanup in Jinshanling, on October 1, 1998. Sponsored on this occasion by the Great Wall Sheraton Hotel, about 40 Chinese and foreign citizens of Beijing joined Lindesay for this jaunt out to one of the Wall’s wilder, but more easily accessible sections. The day’s event had two simple goals: remove trash left behind by inconsiderate visitors, and place 15 to 20 heavy-duty garbage cans donated by the hotel, so that in the future, hikers would at least have a choice of where to throw their waste. What most of us found on the Wall was shocking: Aside from mounds of cigarette butts, lunch wrappers, and discarded bottles, was obvious evidence that this Wonder of the World had been used not just as a garbage can, but as a toilet. Even on an early autumn day, the stench in places was overpowering. “Jinshanling is one of the best-kept sections within a stone’s throw of Beijing,” Lindesay said, “But Juyongguan [close to the Badaling section] is a national disgrace,” describing the smell of “ammonia” that greets hikers on any given day. For Lindesay, preserving the Wall isn’t just about protecting the bricks. Having coined the term “Wild Wall,” he said: “There are thousands of kilometers of Wild Wall. It is wilderness that needs protection,” seeing his work
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now not just as protecting the world’s longest artifact, but backing environmental protection for the land around the Wall also. Lindesay was no stranger to the great outdoors before he made the acquaintance of the Great Wall. A long-distance runner in his native England, the idea to conquer the Great Wall came during a job with his brother along more familiar terrain, Hadrian’s Wall on the border with Scotland. That dream never died, and on his third try in 1987, Lindesay completed his journey from Jiayuguan to Shanhaiguan. It wasn’t the end; it was only the beginning. Shortly after completing the walk, Lindesay moved to Beijing. In his early years, he spent his time at the Xinhua News Agency, leaving the office on Friday afternoons, cycling about 100 kilometers to the Wall, where he would camp and hike until Sunday afternoon and it was time to ride back into town. “I’ve always been here for the Wall,” Lindesay said, now splitting his time not between an office and the Wall, but between writing and photographing numerous books on the Wall, making documentary films about it, running The Barracks, a village primary school that now serves as a courtyard hotel with dramatic views and access to the Great Wall, and his conservation work. That’s in addition to being a husband to his wife Wu Qi, and father of two sons, James and Thomas.
August 2013
Lindesay’s organization, International Friends of the Great Wall, seeks to keep the Wall in the public spotlight. “I can’t save the Wall,” he said. “All I can do is get some things rolling.” One of his most recent projects demonstrated just how much the Wall requires conservation at every level – from citizens and government alike. His 2007 book, The Great Wall Revisited: From the Jade Gate to the Old Dragon’s Head, was partly inspired by a missing tower. William Geil, an American missionary, may be the first person – certainly the first foreigner – to travel the entire length of the Great Wall, having completed the feat in 1908, taking many photographs along the way, and publishing his own book, The Great Wall of China. A photo shows Geil sitting on a tower near Luowenyu in Hebei Province. Lindesay knew the area and happened to have a photograph of himself hiking there. The biggest difference: the tower was now gone. The picture spurred Lindesay to revisit and re-photograph many of the places documented by Geil, to see how they had changed in the century that had passed in between, and everything that has come with it: a population boom, war, earthquakes, and environmental change. “If the Chinese people need to know why the Great Wall needs preservation, they should look at this evidence,” Lindesay said. His Wall work, and the scope of his conservation efforts, now extends beyond China’s political borders. Having
first noticed wall-like structures in southern Mongolia, Lindesay led an expedition, along with Mongolian academic Professor Baasan Tudevin, to an area of the southern Gobi desert about 80 kilometers north of the border with China. There he discovered what satellite and historical evidence had suggested: a rammed earth wall that also contained local scrub brush. “From maps, we couldn’t tell that the wall contained wood, and large quantities of wood at that,” he said. Lindesay returned to Mongolia in 2012 and will go again this year to look at possible Mongolian-built walls in other sections of the country. As for protecting China’s Wall, he said there is no single answer. “Do we protect it section by section, or valley by valley?” Lindesay acknowledged that while nationallevel policies can go a long way, governance in China is ultimately local. “Tourism is one of the top threats to the Wall,” he said. His greatest fear is the “Badalingization” of the Wall, an attempt to generate revenue for local communities by promoting mass tourism. The Wall is strong, but wasn’t built for that purpose. He pointed to a picture of photographers standing on a tower.“Seventy photographers at an average of 70 kilograms each. That’s five metric tons!” Learn more about William Lindesay and his Wild Wall conservation efforts at www.wildwall.com.
photo: Courtesy of james Lindesay
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August 2013
What are you planning to do?
EVENTS
OUR EDITORS PICK THE BEST OF THE MONTH upload your events at thebeijinger.com/events find all venue info AT THEBEIJINGER.COM/DIRECTORY. please call venues ahead of time to confirm details.
pitbull
AUG 28 – Miami rapper and producer descends on Beijing for the first time. The serial collaborator has worked with some of the biggest names in pop and performs as part of a world tour, promoting his latest release Global Warming, which is currently storming the charts and the dance floor. RMB 380-1,680. 8pm. Beijing Workers’ Gymnasium (400 882 1190)
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August 2013
EVENTS
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4 1. Sophie Koh
AUG 15 – Chanteuse and qualified optometrist Sophie Koh comes to Beijing to present her earthy blend of informed pop music to the People’s Republic. She is on her way to becoming a big name in Australia and soon the world. RMB 50. 8-11pm. Jianghu Bar (6401 5269)
2. The Color Run
AUG 10 – Get your white T-shirts out again. The Color Run promises to be the craziest, most colorful, five kilometer run of your life. Check out www. thecolorrun.com.cn for more details. RMB 160. 3.30pm. The Ninth China Garden Expo
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3. One Summer Night in Beijing
AUG 24 – Don your beachwear and support the good work of the Beijing LBGT Center in their third annual fundraiser with drinks, dancing and naturally, donations to the cause. RMB 40. 10pm-late. Alfa (6413 0086)
4. Roots & Shoots No Shark Fin Project
AUG 8 – Say “bye” to the consumption of shark fin and help raise awareness for shark week. Support the fight for shark conservation by making your pledge not to eat shark fin soup. Free. 5.30-6pm. Sanlitun Soho (5878 8888)
5. Skip Skip Ben Ben, Bedstars and Dice
AUG 17 – Come celebrate Taiwanese shoegaze starlet Benben’s 28th birthday, at School Bar. Let her wall of noise style guitar and angelic voicing bring you to ecstasy, then drop you off into a void of maniacal despair. RMB 30. 9pm-midnight. School Bar (6402 8881)
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August 2013
don’t miss
DISCO NIGHTS Hotpot Party at M igas Featu r i ng DJ Wordy and Soulspeak AUG 2 – Get ready to party with three dope DJ’s playing the freshest beats ranging across all genres of dance music. No fillers, no fat, no MSG, just good positive vibes, great people, tasteful music, and a night to get down. RMB 50. 10pm. Migas (5208 6061)
Bye Bye Disco Five-Year Anniversary
AUG 3 – It’s been five years since these wacky dudes flooded Beijing with their sense of sleaze and decadent dance parties. Half a decade is a long time, and they still know how to throw a party. RMB 10. 10pm. Dada (183 1108 0818)
Footprint: Who is the DJ?
AUG 3 – Who is, Who is the DJ? Almost impossible to find out anything about this guy, but that is probably the point. He has a pretty deep catalogue, with the who’s who of European EDM; it will be worth checking out. RMB 100. 10pm. Lantern (135 0134 8785)
Th e D etr oit S e r i e s featu r i n g Dave Spivey AUG 3 – This legendary Detroit DJ, has been at it since he was 13. Dave Spivey has developed a sound that is both soulful and eclectic, which draws from various genre’s including Techno, House, Disco and Funk. RMB 50.10pm. Migas (5208 6061)
DOT Records presents: Jonas Kopp
AUG 10 – Few would dispute Jonas Kopp as being one of the most prominent and exciting figures to emerge from Argentina in recent years. An accomplished techno producer, in-demand remixer and versatile performer. Jonas has a unique sound that can’t be missed. RMB 100, RMB 50 (presale). 10pm. Lantern (135 0134 8785)
Migas Terrace Anniversary Party Weekend AUG 16 & 17 – Featuring Lopazz and the Migas Allstars, this two-day event will be of epic proportions. Hang out on the deck with your favorite DJs and experience one of the best summer spots in all of its glory, before it’s too late. RMB 50. 10pm. Migas (5208 6061)
Dada One-Year Anniversary
AUG 17 – The Gulou provocateurs of all things electronic and ecstatic, would like to thank Beijing for making their first year so incredible. Everyone is encouraged to dress in drag and party like the ladyboy you always knew you could be. Free. 10pm. Dada (183 1108 0818)
Limonious and Daniel Savio
AUG 23 – Recognized as the originators of the genre term “skwee,” this Swedish style of EDM combines chiptune leads with R&B or soul-like rhythms, overall rendering a strippeddown funky sound. Not to be missed. RMB 50. 10pm. Dada (183 1108 0818)
Paul Taylor
AUG 24 – Paul Taylor is a huge name in the Psytrance genre and along with Goa Productions expect a truly immersive, visually stimulating space where anyone and everyone can come and let their creativity run wild. RMB 90, RMB 50 (presale). 10pm. Lantern (135 0134 8785)
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August 2013
EVENTS
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AUG 8-11 – The Estate of Michael Jackson resurrect the King of Pop, in this inspirational adaptation of Michael Jackson’s discography. Visit the land of fantasy and wonder that created one of the most eccentric artists that ever lived. RMB 280-1280. 2.30pm, 7.30pm. MasterCard Center (6828 6386)
2.Comedy Club China Live Standup
AUG 3 – Six local comedians bring you authentic live standup with a unique China twist. Entrance includes a free beer to get the laughs off to a giddy start. RMB 50. Time TBA. Taps (6415 6901)
3. Beijing Punk Festival
AUG 24 – The Beijing Punk Festival celebrates its tenth anniversary. Bands on the lineup include Beijing punk heroes Mi San Dao, Hell City and The Autocratics from Japan. Price TBA. 2pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998)
4. White+, Chui Wan & Obladi Oblada
AUG 10 – Beijing’s best dissonant rock groups light up XP. Featuring the dark psychedelia of Chui Wan, the repetitive driving blend of White+’s live delinquent electronica and new duo Obladi Oblada. RMB 60, RMB 50 (students). 9pm. XP (6404 9947)
5. Owl City
AUG 21 – Owl City is a synthpop project created by Adam Young in his parents’ basement, with only his laptop and bad case of insomnia. Since his breakthrough song “Fireflies,” he has toured with the likes of Maroon 5 and John Mayer. RMB 200-700. 8pm. MasterCard Center (6828 6386)
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EVENTS 6. Geng Xiaogang Art Solo Exhibition
UNTIL AUG 23 – Geng’s dry brush paintings question the tension created by the development of information technology and consumer society. He expresses a destination for mankind, based on Taoist philosophies rooted in spirit and nature. Free. XYZ Gallery (5762 3017)
7. Haze Out #3 (in the park)
AUG 24 – A menagerie of vintage concepts come together, with this high school themed soirée, to bring you back to the innocence of youth, only to get degraded by the extreme party vibes that Haze is all to famous for. Contact hailie1780@hotmail.com for more details. RMB 400 (no bus), RMB 500 (bus included). 3pm. Tianjin
8. From Amazon to Iguassu Photo Exhibition
UNTIL AUG 18 – Chen Lusheng, artist, photographer and assistant curator of the National Museum of China shares a collection of breathtaking photos from his travels in Brazil. Free. Parkview Green Gallery. (5662 8888)
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1. the Beijinger 2013 Burger Festival
AUG 17 – The Beijinger’s third annual Burger Cup culminates in a live cook-off of the top eight burgers which the city’s readers voted for. Come for the beef and beer, stay for the music and good vibes. RMB 50 (includes one burger and one beer). 4-9pm. Beijing City International School (5820 5407)
2. Swiss National Day
AUG 1 – Who doesn’t like cheese and wine? Certainly the Swiss do. Join in the celebrations of their National Day with free-flow white wine and Raclette cheese. RMB 348. 7pm. Scarlett (6552 2880)
3. The Chef & The Brewer Brunch
AUG 18 – Great Leap Brewery and The Cut, Fairmont Beijing join together for the second installation in their exclusive beer degustation series; the paired four-course brunch will
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be hosted by Chef Andreas Block and Brewer Tobias Palmer. RMB 300. 11am-3pm. Great Leap Brewpub (6416 6887)
4. Capital M Wine Talk: It’s Summertime, It’s Rosé Time!
AUG 9 – Rosé: the most glamorous of all wines. Get your shine on as experts from ASC Fine Wines guide you through a tasting of Old and New World rosé. Reservations required. RMB 138, includes wine tasting. 6.30pm. Capital M (6702 2727)
5. third Annual Burger Eating Competition
AUG 11 – Come test your limits of speed and endurance at The Box, and be this year’s burger terminator. The winner gets to create a customized burger, with any fixing imaginable. Not recommended for those with a history of heart disease. Free. 4pm. The Box (6401 3293)
August 2013
trivia travails Each month we run a series of questions based on the content of the issue. Answer them correctly and win free stuff! This month’s prize is a dinner voucher for two to Seasoning at Holiday Inn Focus Square. Answers to win@thebeijinger. com. Answers to June’s Trivia Travails: 1. d) beer 2 . c) exercise 3. a) 8 4. b) Yuyuantan Last month’s winner was Gevin Pritts. 1. The western terminus of the Great Wall is called ______. a) Juyongguan b) Jiadaling c) Jiayuguan d) Jutianyu 2. Which of the following is NOT a current Great Wall activity? a) helicopter flights b) bungie jumping c) horseback riding d) scuba diving
3. How long did it take two friends to walk the entire length of the Great Wall? a) 106 days b) 106 years c) 106 weeks d) About a month and change 4. Chongwenmen is a stop along which Beijing Metro subway line? a) 1 b) 13 c) 8 d) 2
Win Stuff Win a dinner voucher for two to Seasoning at Holiday Inn Focus Square by correctly answering all the questions in Trivia Travails.
a dining voucher for Ravioli Factory (value RMB 1,000),
Be the first to spot this month’s Bogus Ad and win vouchers for Din Tai Fung.
a voucher for Wahoo Bar (value RMB 1,000), and
Up for grabs in the GO and MEET sections:
a voucher for The Westin Beijing Financial Street Senses (value RMB 1,000),
a voucher for Crowne Plaza Beijing Park View Wuzhou (value RMB 1,000)
Win a five-liter keg of Franziskaner Weissbier by answering this simple question: In which German city is the Franziskaner brewery based? Send your answer to win@thebeijinger.com by Aug 15.
宝石蓝：C100 M92 Y0 K1
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August 2013
PEKING MAN
Confidence Woman By George Ding
T
he call came at 8:30 in the morning. “Hello?” I mumbled, half-asleep. A woman’s voice came on. “Hi, your phone number ends in ‘77249’ right? My coworker’s number is ‘77294.’ I meant to charge her phone but accidentally put the money into your account. Please check with China Mobile, and then call me back.” I’d heard rumors about a scam like this,where someone deposits money in your phone or bank account, then withdraws it after you pay them back. But for some reason—maybe because I wasn’t fully conscious—I didn’t hang up. In fact, I agreed. Then, abruptly, she asked, “What’s your last name?” Again I thought about hanging up but didn’t. I also thought about lying but didn’t. “My last name is Ding.” “Mine’s Zhao. It’s nice to meet you.” Only then did I hang up the phone. Almost immediately, my brain admonished me: Bravo, Mr. Ding. While you’re at it, why not give her your passport and credit card number too? This had to be a con. Asking for my last name was a way to establish a personal connection and telling me her last name was a way to make me humanize her. Right? I couldn’t shake the nagging doubt that maybe she was telling the truth. So I called China Mobile to check my balance and, sure enough, there was an extra 350 yuan in my account. I asked if any deposits had been made in the last month. “On January 4, 300 yuan was deposited into your account and the next day another 50,” the customer service rep said. “Can you refund the money?” “No, sir.” “Is there any way to transfer the money to another number?” “Not unless they have the same plan as you.” (She didn’t.) “Okay,” I said, and hung up. I texted the woman: “The money is in my account.
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What do you want me to do?” She replied: “Give me the money back.” Then she sent another text with two bank account numbers at different banks and her full name. A new wave of doubts flooded my mind.They ran from the suspicious (Why did she give me two bank accounts?) to the philosophical (Am I morally culpable for someone else’s mistakes?) to the grossly narcissistic (She really ought to be nicer if she wants her money back.). Two days passed and I received another message from the woman: “Mr. Ding, is it convenient for you to go to the bank today?” I didn’t respond; it sounded like something a conman would say. But it also sounded like what an honest person would ask. I tried to go about my day but the issue gnawed at me until I found myself spending an inordinate amount of time pondering the moral and financial repercussions of my dilemma. No matter how hard I thought, I’d never reason out what kind of person Ms. Zhao was. I could only decide what kind of person I was going to be. I went to the bank and typed in the account number, being very careful not to reverse the last two digits. The name she gave me matched the one on the account. I went to the other bank and did the same thing with the other account number. Her story—what little I had— seemed to check out. I took out the three one-hundred-yuan notes that I’d been carrying for nearly a week and put them in the deposit slot. After they disappeared into the machine I took out my phone and sent Ms. Zhao a text: “I just deposited 300 yuan into your bank account. The ATM wouldn’t accept 50 yuan bills.” A few minutes later, as I was walking home, my heart strangely unburdened, I got a brisk, one-word reply: “Thanks.” I never spoke to Ms. Zhao after that, and I never found out if what she said was true. But it was a long time before I had to put money on my phone.
August 2013