the Beijinger September 2013 by The Beijinger Magazine

capoeira

cider

custom cakes

cash

2013/09

Bicycling Beijing

ch of eck th o u th e b t o is es ur m te p on v ic th ent ks s

How you and your two-wheeler can transform our city

2013/09

ECOLOGICAL ECONOMY CN 53-1197/F ISSN1673-0178 9

September 2013

ECOLOGICAL ECONOMY 生态经济(英文版) 主管单位: 云南出版集团公司

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出版: 生态经济杂志社

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社长: 李安泰

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September 2013

CITY SCENE

What’s Happening: Our pick of the best events of the month Stat: The 23rd most skyscraped city in the world Going Underground: Jianguomen, Lines 1 and 2 Scene & Heard: Go on, look at yourselves, you beautiful people

COVER FEATURE

We talk with a pair of the city’s leading proponents of the twowheeled revolution about the benefits of bicycling, AND the power it has to transform Beijing. Also, we look at bicycle security, bicycle vocabulary and a directory of places where people who love bikes gather.

Food & Drink

What’s New: O’Steak, Alfie’s Beijing, Changman Wu, Loft Eatalicious, Pak Pak Thai Kitchen, Dacha Dining Feature: Delivery-Only Expat Enterprises Just Desserts: Mercante Semifreddo Last Orders: Wu Keyong of That’s Mandarin Back For More: Maison Boulud Alleyway Gourmet: Hongji Chaoshan Clay Pot Congee Wokipedia: O is for … octopus, oolong tea, and oyster sauce Taste Test: Bacon Made in China: Why Your Next Wine Should Be Chinese Dining Q&A: Daniel Chambon, Visiting Chef at Brasserie Flo Drinks Feature: On the Cider Trail in Beijing Cocktail Profiler: Francesco of Migas Lounge and Restaurant … plus what we’ve loved eating this month

Inspect-A-Gadget: Set Up for Cycling What’s New Venues: Continew Cycle Company, Gugu Music Feature: The Fight, The Passion, The Rhythm of Capoeira Get the Look: Climate Creative Get Out: Get Stamped in Sinuiju Feature: A Visit to Some of Beijing’s Peculiar Museums

MEET

Booklist: Jeremiah Jenne, IES Abroad Beijing Center Uniformity: Ryan Ha, Beijing Comedy Club A Drink With: Alex Taggart, The Syndicate Playlist: Jonathan Alpart, The Sound Stage Page Turners: On The Noodle Road by Jen Lin-Liu

ECOLOGY

Feature: Local artist Matt Hope pedals past pollution, but is his technology viable?

EVENTS PEKING MAN

What you shouldn’t miss this month

NEXT MONTH: BEIJING’S 20 MOST INTERESTING PEOPLE

OCTOBER EVENTS DEADLINE: SEPTEMBER 9

George Ding tries cupping and guasha

This month’s cover features Shannon Bufton of Serk and Ines Brunn of Natooke. Photography by Sui.

September 2013

70 73 79

The most important dates this month

WHAT’S HAPPENING

Big-haired Scando rock makes a return to the capital as Dynazty embark on a second tour through China. This time with a new bass player and a record of new material to trial.

You might have made fun of him way back when for looking too girly, but now the Biebs If you’ve ever had an urge to get is 100% heart downright groovy while sliding throb. Check out around on roller skates – ’80s his chiselled jaw at style, then you’re in luck: Mako MasterCard Center Live House is set to grant your roller this month. disco dreams this month.

6-21 1

Beijing’s Munich Oktoberfest means 15 days of celebrating German heritage. And by “heritage” we mean beer. And bratwurst. And strapping young lads in lederhosen.

The last day of the literary extravaganza that is the Beijing International Book Fair is the first. Hopefully, you’ve still got time to head on over and check it out, or else you’ve missed out until next year.

Ever realized over a squat toilet that you forgot to bring toilet paper? Yeah, that’s happened to us, too. Vista’s free seminar for newcomers will teach you how to avoid scenarios like the above and more.

Haze reopens its doors after a season of spring cleaning at the CBD nightspot, and they’ve drafted in German electro bignoise Michael Mayer to welcome back the hordes.

The annual pole dancing competition returns for a fifth run at Zeta Bar this month. A set of revolving beauties vie for the title of Beijing’s Pole Dancing Queen, as a group of guys pretend not to watch.

What’s the best way to spend your MidAutumn Festival? You could spend it munching on moon cake and offering wishes to Chang’e, moon goddess of immortality, or you could head over to the Gongti altar and make an offering to the gods of dance.

16-22

Oh, to be a student again. Lush brings the capital its own take on Fresher’s Week with a week of drink-related events in Wudaokou. Warning: keg stands and beer bongs are only semi-optional.

For more events, see p73.

Visit www.thebeijinger.com for more details.

September 2013

Start as you mean to go on

CITY SCENE JIANGUOMEN // JOKES // NEWSBITES // SCENE & HEARD

TOUCH THE SKY Beijing

Hong Kong

1250

Beijing currently has 74 skyscrapers* making it the 23rd most skyscrapered city in the world. Hong Kong is ranked first with 1,250 skyscrapers.

China

269

USA

Currently, 269 buildings over 650 feet tall are under construction in China. In the US, there are just 8 such buildings currently being built. (* buildings that, as defined by Emporis, have an architectural height of at least 100 meters) Sources: www.emporis.com, Chicago Council on Tall Buildings and Urban Habitat (CTBUH)

Letter from the Editor

magine a machine that could transform Beijing as a city. This magic creation would offer safe, convenient, inexpensive, personalized transpor tation to Beijingers. At the same time, it would reduce greenhouse gas emissions and traffic congestion on the capital’s streets. It would provide exercise and opportunities for greater fitness, all during the user’s daily commute to and from work or school. And perhaps best of all, it would be fun. This machine of course does not need to be invented, and three decades ago, it was ubiquitous. When I first visited Beijing in 1985, the streets were filled with bicycles, competing for space only with busses and the occasional government car. According to Shannon Bufton, one of the subjects of this month’s cover feature, in 1986 Beijing was the most bicycled city the world has ever known, with 3.3 million bike trips daily. Maybe it’s time for us to embrace some 80s style and move from four wheels back to two. In this issue we talk with a pair of the city’s leading

proponents of the two-wheeled revolution: Ines Brunn, trick rider, fixed-gear fanatic and founder of Natooke; and Shannon Bufton, who wears a mean Mao suit and operates Serk, the custom bike shop-cum-café. We asked them about the benefits of bicycling, the power it has to (re-)transform Beijing, and then let them face-off about fixed-gear versus multi-gear bikes. Also, we look at bicycle security. The results of our lock test may surprise you. We also include bicycle vocabulary and a directory of places where people who love bikes gather. September sees the heat of summer fade away and we enter Beijing’s best time of year: autumn. As the air cools, it’s the best time to hop on a bicycle and take a spin around our beloved city. Have fun.

Steven Schwankert Managing Editor

September 2013

generation gap Please, move your flat-back trikes off our plazas

Please, stop riding your “fixies” through our alleys

photo: courtesy of JESSE APPELL

tell us a joke

Jesse Appell Q: Knock, Knock? A: Who’s there? Q: Cash!

Fulbright Scholar A: Cash, who? Q: No, thanks. I’d like some peanuts!

September 2013

NEWSBITEs SINA released a report earlier this month stating that 80% of ice cubes on the market are from unlicensed sources. If that wasn’t scary enough, these “black ice” factories do not meet food production license requirements and most simply freeze and package tap water to sell to customers. Do we hear a first lady brawl in the distance? Vanity Fair left Michelle Obama off its “International BestDressed List” in favor of China’s first lady Peng Liyuan, which has purportedly left the Obamas feeling a little snubbed. Peng Liyuan has been praised for her support of local brands, while Obama’s classic, down-to-earth style is often admired. We’ll let you decide whether Vanity Fair made the right choice or not. Despicable Me 2: Too ‘Despicable’? Not quite. After some false reports that the film was banned by Chinese film authorities (some even went so far to say it was because the cartoon characters resembled former President Jiang Zemin),

it’s come out that the sequel to Despicable Me was merely pulled to save room for a film with more revenue potential. That’s weird, because NBC CEO Steve Burke was quoted as saying that Despicable Me 2 will be the most profitable film in Universal’s 100-year history. Maybe someone didn’t get the memo. Apple announced that the iPhone 5S and a cheaper iPhone 5C will be launched on September 10, although a date has not been set yet for their China release. But don’t expect the Chinese to go as crazy as they have for previous iPhone releases: Apple’s revenue from China fell 14% last quar ter. Considering that one Chinese woman’s iPhone electrocuted her while another woman’s phone exploded in her face, Apple’s declining popularity comes as no surprise. The Celestial City, The Polluted City. The Department of Environmental Protection in North China released a report revealing that 41 of Beijing’s 50 downstream rivers are heavily polluted, while the water

quality of its five main waterways is considered “unpleasant.” In a city where even the bottled water is never guaranteed not to be tap water, this is especially scary. Tourism arrivals in Beijing were down 14% during the first half of 2013, and the main reason is pollution. In response, the government has announced a RMB 1.7 trillion plan to combat pollution over the next five years, and plans to reduce PM 2.5 emissions by 25 percent during this period. We’re glad someone’s taking action, but in case the 2012-released RMB 350 billion pollution elimination plan wasn’t indication enough, we’re remaining skeptical. A set of new visa categories will take effect on September 1st. New additions include a new ‘M’ category visa for those coming for business or commerce; ‘J1’ and ‘J2’ for journalists and foreign correspondents, Q1/Q2 for relatives of Chinese citizens who want to stay in China for varying lengths of time, ‘R’ for “high level foreign talent,” and ‘X1/X2’ visas for students. Work and tourist visas (Z and L categories, respectively) will still exist without any major changes (for now). World tennis number one Novak Djokovic and Olympic gold medal winner Rafael Nadal will both be playing in the China Open tennis competition, which runs Sep 22-Oct 6 at the National Tennis Center. Buy tickets to see some of tennis’s most famous stars go head to head, or drop RMB 10 for a grounds pass to enjoy the food, booths, and games off-court.

I Can't wait to get back to beijing

September 2013

going underground

Jianguomen, Lines 1 and 2

Selling Point The Jianguomen station is a key interchange, taking line 1 riders from as far away as Tongzhou to other stations around the inner city on line 2, and vice-versa. The area is home to numerous embassies, including Mongolia, Ethiopia, Vietnam, Poland and Albania. There’s a lot to see and do in this area, making it a convenient and important stop in our underground city. Trade The Silk Market has always been one of the area’s biggest draws, from its earliest days as an awning-covered alleyway to today’s multi-storey shopping mall. Five hundred meters east of Jianguomen’s northeast exit, find here silk garments of varying quality, shoes, electronics, and souvenirs. It’s one-stop shopping for kitsch and tchotchkes to take home. Sightsee As all of line 2 recalls Beijing’s long-gone city walls, one of the best reasons to alight at Jianguomen is the Ancient Observatory, just outside its southwest exit. The Ming Dynasty emperors had a strong interest in astronomy, and this observation point was built in 1442 on what was then one of the highest points in the city (really). The site is now administered by the Beijing Planetarium, and offers occasional, Chinese-language talks and observation of celestial bodies in Chinese. Admission is RMB 20, from 9am to 4pm. About 300-400 northeast of Jianguomen’s northeast exit is Ritan Park (Temple of the Sun Park). Extraordinarily pleasant and frequented by local visitors, this was once one of four sacrificial altars (not human, of course) where the emperor would come to pray for good harvests. More recently, the altar area at the park’s center was used by U2 producer Brian Eno for a sound installation. It’s a great place to watch early morning taiqi, sit in the shade and read, or watching grandparents play with their grandchildren.

September 2013

SCENE & HEARD

2013 Burger Cup

Eight of Beijingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best burgers, decided by the Beijinger readers, faced off at our first Burger Festival at Beijing City International School on August 17. Home Plate Bar-B-Que took home first place after a tie breaker with Plan B, while The Local placed third. Photos by Lova

September 2013

2013 Burger Cup

SCENE & HEARD

September 2013

transforming Beijing I Two wheels at a time

by Cat Nelson

n everyone’s first memories of China there must be a bicycle. Mine is no exception. I am eight, with no intention of ever moving to China, and looking down from a hotel window onto the rainy boulevard below. A patchwork of bicyclists each bedecked in a different color poncho surges across the street in a rainbow river of smooth movement. Although enough residue of the bicycle kingdom that China once was remains to impress upon foreign memories, things have changed in the last 30 years. Those were the days when the pinnacle of making it for a newly married couple could be packaged tidily, as the Chinese language is so apt to do, into the short phrase sidajian (四大件 “the four big items”): a watch, a radio, a sewing machine and a bicycle. Now, far more revealing is the

reply: “I’d rather cry in the back of a BMW,” was a young woman’s recent retort on a TV dating show to her suitor’s suggestion of a bicycle date. I sat down with Shannon Bufton of Serk Cafe and Ines Brunn of Natooke, who have both been negotiating this moment between the city’s, and the country’s, rich history of the bicycle and a contemporary social climate where luxury cars are now the idealized mode of transport. For them, it’s a matter of fighting against the negative status quo that’s enveloped bicycles, creating a new modern bicycle culture and realizing a return to the cycling utopia that they see in Beijing’s past, and its future. Can you help us put Beijing biking in context? SB: Beijing is like the ancient Greece of bicycle cities. We did this comparison of the number of daily bike trips in Beijing in 1986 when it had the highest ridership compared to other modern cities that are really getting into cycling. If you look at Copenhagen, which is a small city but with high bicycle rates, it has something like 200,000 bike trips per day. Berlin, which is a bigger city and has a larger population but also a smaller motor share, has up to 400,000 per day. But Beijing in 1986 had 3.3 million bike trips per day, which is massive in terms of scale compared to anything any other city has experienced. Why the shift from bicycle to car? IB: I think it’s a lot about status symbols. Before people had no personal wealth; it was all communal. You didn’t really have anything. Then suddenly with the opening up of the economy, people could actually earn some money and spend it on something to show others how much they made. Of course, first you need food, then you need to buy a house, and then the next thing is a car. SB: There are some huge struc tural problems to the city, too. Forty percent of the

September 2013

population is now in the outer suburbs ( Tongzhou, Changping), and it’s just unrealistic for those people to ride. It’s a very different city to that of 1996 when everyone was living within the Third Ring Road. The challenge is how do you get people back on bikes when you have such large distances to cover. So, while, this is a great city for cycling, the structure of where people work and live since modernization has really become less bicycle-friendly. IB: But still, there is mixed transportation. I have an employee who lives farther out. She takes the subway to Dongzhimen and she won’t just transfer for one station because that’s too mafan. So, she has a small crappy bike parked there and then she just rides to the office from there. What about the safety of riding in Beijing? SB: I had a friend visit from Europe and he was saying that the traffic seems very chaotic and there are a lot of cars, but the one thing that is different is that the cars are moving so slowly. It’s actually better to be on a bike because you are more flexible and the car is moving slowly, so you can just move out of the way or stop. It’s not like a modern Western city where the cars are really traveling quite fast. The traffic systems are optimized and that’s what makes it so dangerous to bike – when there is a difference between car speed and bike speed. If you move at the same speed as everyone else it is very safe. The first thing that I say to people is actually that I don’t

think it’s dangerous at all, I think it’s safer than my home city to ride a bike. IB: I think so too, definitely. One hundred percent. SB: And there is one other concept that happens here which I call “negotiated flow.” In Western cities we have rules sets where you have a bike lane, a pedestrian zone and a car zone and there are strong rules for everyone. So if you are moving in the car zone, you indicate, you

WHY BIKE In BEIJING?

photos: sui

Shannon and Ines break it down

1. It’s a great city for cycling and an excellent way to engage with the city. As a foreigner you’ve got to go with the flow and get into bike culture here because it’s a unique opportunity. And it’s flat as a pancake. 2. Moving around is more efficient. People often measure the efficiency of a city by how many meetings you can have in a day. Beijing is getting to the stage where if you move by car or taxi, you might be able to have two. The bike can change that. 3. Free yourself of the rigid systems of the city. You can flow through the city at your own pace and can control your own path. This is really important for helping with your sense of sanity in a city like Beijing where there’s so many different things going on. Being in control of your path through the city is very liberating. 4. Make life richer. With a bike, you feel the city much more. You’re not in a closed environment, and you have much more interaction with the community around you. 5. Get fit. Despite problems with air pollution, it is healthy and the exercise is good for your heart. 6. It’s just fun.

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September 2013

leave space. If you are going to walk across the road, you look both ways and wait for the green man, before you go over. IB: Watch Chinese people, they don’t look at the cars because they know if they look the car’s driver might want to negotiate. If they don’t look, there’s no negotiation possible so the car driver has to stop and it’s easy, you just cross the road. It’s a very different concept. SB: You have to get the Western, Cartensian rule-based logic out of your head and think about how the system works here. That’s when it becomes safe and you can appreciate it. But it’s really a different way of thinking. IB: Just for the record, I do believe there are rules. It’s not like there are no rules or something. It’s just looser how you deal with the rules. What about that recurring question of pollution? IB: It’s always funny that people say, “Oh, such high

GET INVOLVED

Beijing Peloton – With a focus on long distance road cycling, this club organizes Saturday rides in the mountains (March-November). A van leaves from the Trek Store at Chaoyang Park and brings you back to the city following the ride. Pre-registration for each trip is required. For more details, visit http://www.asiapeloton. com/the-beijing-peloton-road-bike-club/

pollution, I’m going to take a taxi.” What kind of air do you think is in the taxi? The taxi doesn’t have a high quality air filter that filters out the PM 2.5 or anything. It’s still the same air. Plus there’s usually a traffic jam or dense traffic where the car is then sucking in air mainly out from the car exhaust in front. There have been studies done that the air inside a car is actually worse than on a bike. And you’re still contributing to the pollution. SB: When you ride in the city in Beijing, you shouldn’t ride super fast, just at a reasonable pace. And the amount of energy that it takes on a modern bike to ride 16-20 km per hour is the same amount of energy that it takes to walk because the bicycle is a much more efficient vehicle. So people say “well, it’s bad to ride your bike in a polluted city,” but if you use the same energy as walking on your bike, then you are breathing the same amount as if you were walking.

Beijing Road Cycling – This online group acts as a coordination point for Tuesday and Thursday morning rides starting out from Chaoyang Park South as well as evening rides around Olympic Park. For more details, visit their Yahoo! Group: beijingroadcycling. Big Dirty 巨脏 – This urban cycling crew does a weekly ride with two groups, fast (race-pace, fixed-gear only) and cruise (conversational-pace, all bikes welcome). Routes vary weekly, but always depart from Workers’ Gymnasium West Gate at 8pm and end at the Drum and Bell Towers every Thursday. For more details visit http:// bigdirtycycling.com/. Natooke – Well-known for their focus on urban cycling and fixed-geared bikes, this hutong institution organizes related events such as the annual Fixed Gear Open and bike polo (not limited to fixed gears). For more details and newsletter sign-up, visit www.natooke.com. Serk 速旷 – This cafe-booze-bike space organizes a number of activities including rides in the mountains on the city outskirts, vintage wear rides, the MeWe bicycle festival and I’m In group rides held on the best air quality days. They are also revitalizing Mountain Biking of Beijing (MOB). For more details and newsletter sign-up, visit www.serk.cc. photo: sui

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September 2013

Hot rides A

lthough many Beijingers are content to choose between Flying Pigeon and Forever bicycles some need more underneath them. These sexy beasts are lightweight performance machines. Start dreaming.

1978 Francesco Moser Francesco Moser is an Italian cycling legend – one of the dominant riders of the 1970s and early 1980s. This bike is the San Cristobal named after his 1977 World Championship win in San Cristobal Venezuela. The bike is built up with the iconic Campagnolo Super Record groupset – the most desired components from the 1970s. (Serk Cycling)

Daccordi Fiftieth Anniversary This mint condition 1987 Italian bike was handmade in Italy using the finest tubing of the era – Columbus SLX. The Groupset is a flawless Campagnolo Chorus with French Wolber wheels. The bike is a superb original condition version of a late ‘80s Italian masterpiece. Look carefully to see the fiftieth anniversary logo embossed on various arts of the frame. This bike was a limited edition number 195 of 2000 built. (Serk Cycling)

photos: mitchell pe masilun

Colnago Master The iconic frame from the legendary bike builder Ernesto Colnago. Made with special star-shaped Gilco tubing this frame is an ex-race frame from a Dutch cycling team. The groupset is the sculptured Italian classic from the 1990’s Campagnolo C-record. (Serk Cycling)

Abici Velocino New edition of an original model of the ‘30s Italian steel frame with joints and braze welding. Tires with reflecting lines. Leather saddle. Back-pedal rear brake. Leather grips. (Mr. Yu)

Descriptions provided by Shannon Bufton

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September 2013

BIKE LOCK CHALLENGE A WHo’S THE STURDIEST OF THEM ALL?

by Paul Ryding

lmost anyone who has owned a bike in Beijing will have a tale about the first bike they owned. Or maybe even the second, and how they came to lose it. Bike theft is a part of everyday life in Beijing. The best we can do is buy a sturdy lock (or two) and box clever. We have some handy tips on making it as much grief for a thief as possible, but what about, we thought, a guide to which locks are the most effective. Better yet, let’s get a professional lock buster to put them to the test. Enter Mr. Cai. Smiley Cai came to my rescue previously after I had drunkenly lost my bike keys. He gave short shrift to the 30 kuai lock I bought from the same shack where I bought the bike, and I got to thinking, “If lovely old Mr. Cai only needs one swoop of his hammer to relieve my bike of its last line of security, imagine how easy it must be for a hard-nosed bike napper!” We stopped by Dongjiao Market and bought a selection of locks, and Mr. Cai agreed to take his hammer to each of them to show just how troublesome it is (or isn’t) to leave your bike unguarded.

Lock 1: Metal Red Chain (奥耐锰钢链条锁) Cost: RMB 20 S t y l e : I ro n - l i n k e d c h a i n w i t h c i rc l e catch lock. Cai says: “It looks pretty, but it doesn’t do much to protect your bike.” The eight seconds Cai took to tonk this lock off our bike were chiefly made up of the time it took for him to raise his mighty lump hammer before delivering one perfectly accurate, and joint-blasting blow to the lock. Time to release: 8 seconds Effectiveness:

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Lock 2: Steel U-Lock (小缆钥玛抗液压剪锁) Cost: RMB 40 Style: Rigid one-piece with steel joints and lock. Cai says: “If you know where to smash it, they’ll all come off eventually.” This was the one I had highest hopes for. Sturdy, thick and shiny, it was like the Fort Knox of locks. Not even half a minute after Cai began blasting away at it, as sparks flew past his hands and landed on his black qiancengdi, the lock was spinning away into the road as the old man celebrated with a couple of air swipes of his hammer, a smile playing across his wrinkled lips. He was pleased with his performance so far. Time to release: 18 seconds Effectiveness:

September 2013

Lock 3: Thin Bendy Insulated Rope Lock (通用锁具钢缆锁) Cost: RMB 25 Style: A long plastic insulated flexible mesh wire tether with a plastic locking mechanism. Cai says: “This will be very easy. Plastic locks won’t stop anyone” Lock three wiped that smile off Cai’s face. Ironically, after the light work he’d made of two of the stronger locks in our collection, it was the one he’d dismissed as useless that caused him to break a sweat first on a blistering 35-degree afternoon. Quickly losing face with every futile blow he delivered to the crushed locking mechanism, Cai repositioned his foot over the tether for a better swing several times, before delivering the fatal blow and tearing the remains of the plastic holding apart like the Incredible Hulk. Time to release: 73 seconds Effectiveness:

Lock 4: Thick Iron Chain with Large Steel Padlock (豹王锁具链条锁) Cost: RMB 30 Style: A medium length chain with a sturdy iron padlock. Cai says: “Oh no. This one will be very hard. This is the type of lock I would use if I had a bicycle.” I had a personal interest in seeing how Cai fared with lock four as I’m a user of this particular model. His swinging action slowing by the second, a tiring Cai got it off, but not without a cacophony of noise that brought nosey observers across the road to see what the fuss was about. Fearing a coronary, and with slivers of metal – the innards of a quickly perishing lock – flying in all directions. I was about to smugly ask Cai to give it up, when it slipped quietly and without fanfare from its holding. Cai 4 – Locks 0. Time to release: 62 seconds Effectiveness:

Lock 5: Red Rubber Rope Lock (仙狮锁业普通钢丝锁) Cost: RMB 15 Style: A medium length thin mesh wire encased in thick rubber. Cai says: “I am pretty tired now, but this one shouldn’t be too tough.”

photos: mitchell pe masilun

In my pre-challenge notes I’d labeled this one “flimsy red.” Cai now knew not to underestimate thin and pretty after the loss of face he endured with lock three. I thought I’d allow Cai a“gimme”for the final lock of the challenge, and so held the ubiquitous flimsy red back wanting to part on good terms with him, lest I suffer another drunken lock out. A now visibly-tired Cai swung his hammer on lock five for a full minute before giving up. We stood around in silence, no one daring to offer condolences. Suddenly a crazed Cai leapt up, ran to his toolbox and returned with a hacksaw. Flimsy red lay in tatters after five labored strokes of the hacksaw’s jagged, rust-colored teeth. Time to release: Failed with hammer/five seconds with hack saw Effectiveness: CAI’S TIPS “Chain your bikes off the ground and to objects. It’s harder for a thief to get the necessary swing on a lock when it’s in mid-air. And he won’t want to steal a metal fence.” “Don’t buy the plastic-coated mesh locks. Anyone with a decent set of wire cutters will do away with them in moments.” “Try to lock your bike in a well-lit area with plenty of people passing by.” “Secure your lock through the wheel and the frame as well as to an immovable object.” “If you have a U-lock, secure it with the lock facing down.” “Take any removable parts with you such as wheels, seats, baskets and lights.”

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September 2013

Bike Talk

Everything you need to say to get a bike repaired in Beijing

icycle repairs are often required at the most inopportune times: on the way to work, or maybe worse, a date. As language can fail even at the best of times, here is a guide to bike parts and fixes that will have you tuned up and riding again in no time.

The Parts of a Bike Bicycle zìxíngchē 自行车 Lock chēsuǒ 车锁

Seat chēzuò 车座

Frame chējià 车架

Handlebars bǎshǒu 把手 Brakes shāchē 刹车

Wheel chēlún 车轮

Gears chǐlún 齿轮

U I J

G MY

O Y

CMY

YO N

G J IU

Reflector fǎnshè 反射

Spokes fútiáo 辐条

Chain Pedal Kickstand liàntiáo 链条 tàbǎn 踏板 jiǎochēng 脚撑

Inner Tube nèitāi 内胎

Tire chētāi 车胎

Getting your bike fixed

8 18

September 2013

illustration: li xing

I want to pump up my tires. 师傅，我想给车打气。Shīfu, wǒ xiǎng gěi chē dǎqì. I have a flat tire. 我的车胎瘪了。Wǒ de chētāi biěle. I need to change a tire. 我要换轮胎。Wǒ yào huàn lúntāi My gears need adjusting. 我的齿轮需要调一下。Wǒ de chīlún xūyào tiáo yīxià. My brakes need adjusting. 我的车闸需要调一下。Wǒ de chēzhá xūyào tiáo yīxià. Can you adjust the handlebars? 您能调一下车把吗？Nín néng tiáo yīxià chē bǎ ma? My seat needs raising/lowering. 我的车座需要调一下。Wǒ de chēzuò xūyào tiǎo yīxià. My wheel is wobbly. 我的车轮晃的厉害。Wǒ de chēlún huàng de lìhài. The brake pads are worn out. 这车闸不行了。Zhè chēzhá bùxíngle. My chain fell off. 我的链子掉了。Wǒ de liànzi diàole. My chain is broken. 我的链子坏了。Wǒ de liànzi huàile. I would like to attach a basket. 我要装一个车框。Wǒ yào zhuāng yī gè chēkuāng.

CYCLING HUBS WHERE TO GET YOUR TWO WHEELS

icycling culture is alive and well in Beijing, and this list of a few top community and commerce spots provide a starting point for your entry into it. No worries – if the first isn’t to your liking, just head off for the next one! Cycle Base Asahi A two-floored Japanese shop packed with bicycles which also offers maintenance and repair services. Daily 10am-8pm. 83 Xibaihe Dongli, North Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District (64602271) 朝阳区北三环西坝河东里83号

Serk A café-bar-bike shop space which sells road bikes (RMB 9,000 to RMB 60,000) and performs bike repair. Daily 11am-9pm (summer), WedSun 11am-7pm (winter). 40-2 Beixinqiao Santiao, Dongcheng District (134 2647 4634) 东城区北新桥三条40-2号

Wing Fung Bicycle Company A large selection of bikes customfit with laser precision, sporting an average price over RMB 50,000. See our August 2013 issue for a full review. Daily 10am-8pm. 88-8 Guangqumennei Dajie, Dongcheng District (6713 8900) 东城区广渠门内大街88-8号

Ceecle Bike Rental @ 96 Café One of four branches throughout the city, this café’s central location features eight models of bikes from Holland. A good opportunity to try biking the city before deciding to get one of your own or not. Daily 10am-9pm. 96 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District (6404 4485) 东城区东四十条96号

photos: mitchell pe masilun and sui

Continew Bicycle Co. A new fixed-gear and single speed spot. See p. 54 for a full review. Daily noon-10pm. F-16C, 1/F, Zhucheng Bldg, 6A Zhongguancun South Street, Haidian District (186 0021 5885) 海淀区中关村南大街甲6号铸诚大厦底商F-16C

Natooke The best-known fixed-gear bike shop in Beijing offering starter level to high-end machines. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. 191A Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District (8402 6925) 东城区五道营胡同甲19-1号

Oryx A space for like-minded fixed-gear heads to gather and DIY-build a bike. A basic knowledge of fixed gears suggested. Daily 1pm-8pm. 83 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng District (135 2229 9355) 东城区交道口南大街大兴胡同83号

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September 2013

Sip, nibble, gulp, chew, guzzle, savor, feast

FOOD & DRINK SPECIALTY DELIVERY // CIDER // STEAK // BACON

It’s that season – moonwalk over to The St Regis Beijing for mooncake

September 2013

nibbles and sips New Openings Will Wangjing become the new “it spot”? Seems doubtful right now, but these past months have seen the opening of a second Obentos, Thai eatery Pak Pak, and the Italian Loft Eatalicious. Gung Ho! Pizza will expand their empire there, too. Their fourth location is set to open in Kirin Place. Those of you with sugar cravings, look forward to Sweet Tooth Bakery’s upcoming new bakery and cafe space in Sanlitun. You might have already noticed the giant face of their chef on the logo grinning down at you, but if you haven’t, there’s a huge new Da Dong going up at the east gate of Workers’ Stadium. Nothing like a bit of roast duck before heading over to Latte … Happenings Over on Jianchang Hutong near Andingmen, Stuff’d is now open for lunch on weekdays and is offering a few deals. Slow Boat Brewery is planning to roll out a selection of new ales this month. Among them will be the crowdsourced beer they unveiled in conjunction with the Beijinger last year. The 8.5% ABV Sea Anchor Imperial Vanilla Stout will be back on tap soon. Lush will be celebrating its tenth birthday with a bash at the Wudaokou spot on October 18. Zap Urban Eatery has expanded into Zap: Cafe, Bar and Urban Eatery. They hope to make their Sanlitun location “a community bar,” and they’re asking people to submit ideas for drink recipes. Modernista has been closed for renovations for a while, but they’ll be open again from September 4. Updates Black Sun Bar has seen a changing of the guard. No sooner had they said goodbye to their old manager, Tom, than they welcomed Giuseppe Gladiatore, of Alio Olio, aboard. Changes are already underway as part of a huge renovation of the space, but fear not, the cigarette pack montage is still in place, for now.

September 2013

steak Out O’Steak

Sun-Thu 11am-2pm, 6-11pm, Fri-Sat 11am-2pm, 6pm-late. 55 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District (8448 8250)   朝阳区幸福村中路55号 1km west of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)

photo: lova

PETIT STEAK

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW restaurants

he people behind Cafe de la Poste have noted the emergence of the Xingfucun stretch between Great Leap Brewpub and Heaven Supermarket as a serious nightlife destination (at least for those too jaded, scared or old for Sanlitun’s back alleys). Their latest venture, O’Steak, hasn’t yet recaptured the charm of its sister restaurant, but should eventually find its stride. O’Steak offers a slightly broader selection of French bistro fare than Cafe de la Poste but the menu drops enough hints that you’re in the same hands. Prices are broadly comparable, though O’Steak will likely set you back a few extra kuai. The “guillotines” – brown slabs of toast with a variety of toppings – are good for three or four to share. We enjoyed chomping through the cheese and mushroom option (RMB 38), although I regretted not going for the prosciutto alternative. Some might find the 140g “petit steak” (RMB 86) too small, but served with a portion of fries, large side salad and choice of a sauce, it was enough for one. For taste, the steak itself didn’t quite meet the standard I was expecting, but these were early days. With the track record these guys have, I would definitely give this place another chance. For RMB 338, you can have a 500g steak with five different sauces. If you don’t fancy the eponymous beef, try the cordon bleu (RMB 88) or duck breast with balsamic reduction (RMB 88). Like other restaurants on this strip, O’Steak will have no trouble attracting customers for a drink on the terrace, which offers some of the finest people-watching in Beijing. Of course, seeing also means being seen, so if you’re up to something you shouldn’t be doing, grab a table inside or even upstairs. To pass yourself off as a Frenchman, order a pastis (RMB 10). Otherwise, beers start from ten-kuai Beijing draft, with Vedett also on tap (RMB 35) and a selection of bottled Belgian beers. Wine is pricier than at Cafe de la Poste, with most bottles over RMB 300; glasses are RMB 48. Iain Shaw Also try: Chez Julian, La Taverne ESCARGOT

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW restaurants

Ye Old Boys’ Club Alfie’s Beijing Daily 10am-10pm. L1-22, 1/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (5662 8777) 朝阳区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦1层L1-22 600m south of Dongdaqiao station (Line 6)

(RMB 78), then move on to the Hereford goat’s curd (RMB 68) – amazingly soft and artfully wrapped with light leaves of squash and courgette on the side. Enter the steak tartare (RMB 128) of Australian Black Angus beef fillet with English mustard. The taste was decidedly smooth, and the certainly fresh. We dipped our toes back into traditional English comfort food. The cottage pie (RMB 118) with port wine, braised veal rump with carrots and creamy mash, reminded me more of mashed potatoes. Potatoes covered the pie with veal and carrots hidden at the bottom, but they are by far some of the best mashed potatoes in this city. Despite an English air of pomp and circumstance, we felt at home here. Elizabeth Wu Also try: Park Square, Morton’s

September 2013

photo of Hereford goat's curd joey guo

aalk into Alfie’s and there is reason for immediate pause as you immerse yourself in the sleek gray color scheme that is Alfred Dunhill. Mirrors and marble tables line the boys’ club, with bar and outdoor deck. The leather couch also caught our eye – no bachelor pad is complete without leather, but think English bloke with refined taste. The drink menu is just as considered as the décor. Of the creative and classic cocktails, try the Cool Beijing (RMB 68), with Absolut, grapefruit juice, and crème de cassis, spiced with ginger beer to whet your appetite, or choose a selection from the well-stocked wine and scotch lists. The menu, place settings, and even bread basket all have the Dunhill touch. True to form, this is a designer’s stage for food. Start off with the smoked Scottish salmon terrine, including cream cheese, chives and frisee salad

WHAT’S NEW restaurants

Straight Eelin’ Changman Wu

鳗屋

Daily 11am-3pm and 5pm-10pm. 3 Shajing Hutong (off Nanluogu Xiang), Dongcheng District (186 1175 5576) 东城区南锣鼓巷沙井胡同3号 500m north of Nanluogu Xiang station (Line 6)

he translation of its name means “long eel house” so it seems only fitting that this restaurant specialize in Japanese food and, of course, eel. We usually remember eel as the sweet, but small side in a bento rice box, but here at Changman Wu, the grilled eel (RMB 98) is front and center. A pleasure for the taste buds, its caramelized, barbecued skin envelops tender, savory meat. The sushi also did not disappoint. Go for the eel once more; the eel shrimp roll (RMB 68) is lathered in a delicate sauce that is sweet and milky, and the shrimp is slightly fried, tempura-style adding an excellent crunch. It’s great for the sweet tooth before moving on to their appetizers like the cold tofu (RMB 15), sprinkled with sliced green onions and shaved bonito. Try Changman Wu the next time you’re in Nanluogu Xiang, and sit on the third level where floor-to-ceiling windows offer a pleasant view of the surrounding hutongs – you won’t be disappointed. Elizabeth Wu Also try: Geba Geba, Sanma No Aji

photo: mitchell pe masilun

eel shrimp roll

September 2013

dining feature

Culinary

Couriers

Delivery-only Expat Enterprises by Cat Nelson

hungry audience or tumble out of failure unscathed. For the rest of us? We reap the benefits. Read on for a selection of Beijing’s current small-scale and specialty food entrepreneurs who will deliver to your doorstep. Balmain’s Gourmet Sausages Australian native and chef Drew Howard took it upon himself to fill the sausage void two and a half years ago. Howard makes more than 40 different types of sausages (including breakfast, Cumberland and herb, lamb Merguez, Mexican Jalapeno) from natural hog and sheep casings without preservatives, additives or MSG. Pricing ranges from RMB 65-90 per 500g depending on the type of meat. Gluten-free options are also available for RMB 75

September 2013

photo: COURTESY OF Oliver Bulloss and FATBUNNY BAKERY, sui

eijing’s darling, Home Plate Bar-B-Que, had humble beginnings pulling pork in a Taiyanggong kitchen and ferried barbecued meats to doorsteps. Jamaica Me Crazy’s Rose Lin Zamoa spent several years catering her jerk chicken privately before opening up a storefront. And there are more: Two Guys and a Pie, Tavalin Bagels and Sweet Tooth all have their roots in delivery-only. There’s a romantic notion to it – the handcrafted quality intrinsically imparted by a personal kitchen – but there are, too, the practicalities, like those of a bicycle: low-investment and adaptable. The scene is not new but is certainly growing. Chefs and amateurs alike, it’s an everyman’s game where you can find your niche and

per 500g. Expect an expansion to bacon and other cured meats soon. For current stock and ordering, email piesandsangasbeijing@gmail.com or call 186 0003 9708. Andy’s Craft Sausages A more recent arrival to the sausage scene, Andy Horowitz’s selection includes Lincolnshire-sage, chorizo, cheddar bratwurst (pictured), maple links and, by special request, bacon and pulled pork. Sausages are all RMB 150 per kg with no added nit r a te s. G l u te n - f re e o p t i o n s a re available. Horowitz also offers catering with sausages for grilling, pulled pork and salads (macaroni, potato). Look forward to an eventual duck sausage and a Turducken. Sausages are personally delivered by Horowitz in his “Hambulance.” You can also get a bite of his wares on the breakfast sandwich at Tavalin Bagels. For more information and to order, visit www.beijingsausages.com.

a chocolate ganache). Collins hand-delivers, but encourages pick-up as it allows for more cake-baking time. For more information and menu, visit www.fatbunnybakery. com and to order, email ida@fatbunnybakery.com. ABC Kitchen ABC Kitchen arose organically out of the cooking and hosting Cherry Li and Yen Le were doing for their friends. They aim to provide a personalized dining experience to intimate parties with a combination of nouvelle French and contemporary Californian with Chinese flair. The cuisine is a mix of their culinary background and menus include dishes such as a rice galette with chives, edamame and a Parmesan crisp or a champagne gelee with waxberry. Catering runs the range from RMB 150-250 per person. To inquire and arrange catering service, email abcsofbeijing@gmail.com.

Big Tree Cookie Company Canadian chef Dustin Merrett offers a selection of homemade cookies including cranberry white chocolate and jammies with seasonal fruit jam, plus old standards like peanut butter chocolate chip and weekly specials like cherry-hazelnut and merlot-vanilla. Specialty ingredients are imported from Canada and prices range from RMB 34-42 for a half dozen. He bakes brownies with roasted cashews (RMB 58 for four) and blondies. Merrett hand-delivers the cookies by bike, and sometimes subway, for a small fee of RMB 4 to cover the fare. For more information and to order, call 135 2228 5567 or email bigtreecookieco@gmail.com.

FatFace Dining Hsu and Eric Li, a Taiwanese-American brother duo from Los Angeles, started their “food culture company” to bring together chefs, farmers, food experts and foodies through events like FoodCamp and social community dinners. Menus are American-style Italian and Mexican cuisine plus Asian fusion, with options like a crab broth corn chowder and provolone prosciutto mac n’ cheese as well as papaya lotus okra and wasabi beef dumplings. Prices (per person) are scaled to the level of service with appetizer (RMB 120-180), buffet (RMB 200-280) and plated (RMB 300 and up). To inquire and arrange catering service, visit www.fatfacedining.com, fatbuddha@fatfacedining.com or subscribe to their WeChat at fatfaceme.

Fat Bunny Bakery Working out of her Shuangjing kitchen, Ida Collins has found a sweet spot between the visually striking and the satisfyingly delicious. With an affinity for fondant, Collins creates sleek, custom cakes. Buttercream-frosted varieties are available as well from RMB 250-650. All cakes are build-your-own with sponge cake options (vanilla, dark chocolate, red velvet, carrot), fillings (including lemon curd, raspberry jam, and dulce de leche), and frostings (including cream cheese, a variety of buttercreams, and

Food Muppet Sue Zhou offers a broad range of cuisine from traditional to modern Chinese food as well as Southeast Asian, fusion and Western menus and can feature classics like three cup chicken with fresh basil and chili. Food Muppet catering requires a minimum of eight people but can scale up to 50, depending on the event. Pricing begins at RMB 250 per person. For more information, visit www. foodmuppet.com. To inquire and arrange catering service, email info@foodmuppet.com.

September 2013

SEOULFUL Italian Loft Eatalicious

Daily 10am-11pm. Rm 101, Bldg A1, U Lo Park, 610 Wangjingyuan, Guangshunnan Dajie, Chaoyang District (8870 0868) 朝阳区广顺南大街望京园605号楼悠乐汇A1座101室 1.5km south of Wangjing station (Line 15)

photo: photo: joeylova guo

CHARCUTERIE PLATTER

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW restaurants

onvenience. It’s a word that’s analogous to Beijing’s Italian food. Just ask those who voted in the Reader Restaurant Awards – pizza and pasta, it seems, is synonymous with “Annie’s.” But the convenience of nine locations aside for a moment, there’s really something to be said for quality food at Loft Eatalicious. It’s no surprise that Chef Roberto Masili ran the former L’Isola in Pacific Century and has just opened Italian fine dining spot, Bantu. His brother, Massimo, can take credit for the award-winning LM Plus. He has enough street cred to make up for Loft Eatalicious’s unlikely location, right in the middle of Korean waffle joint, Caffe Bene. Duck outside for a romantic, candlelit spot on their patio benches and start off your meal with a hearty mozzarella salad (RMB 68) topped with grilled vegetables or the pumpkin soup (RMB 40) that packs a healthy serving of plump shrimp in its creamy broth. What’s more, the soup is large enough to serve two, which is good news considering the price. The pizzas are satisfying and made from fresh ingredients, like parma ham, rucola and parmesan (RMB 76). But for a standout signature, the classic Italian baked lasagna (RMB 65) is a good bet. If a bottle of wine isn’t your thing, the barista has you covered with a chocolate banana five-grain smoothie (RMB 37) – a perk of an Italian restaurant inside a Korean study cafe. Jessica Rapp Also try: LM Plus, Eatalia

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW restaurants

PAK IT IN Pak Pak Thai Kitchen 喜悦泰餐 Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm. 2/F Daimler Tower, 8 Wangjing Jie, Chaoyang District (8476 0166) 朝阳区望京街8号利星行广场奔驰展厅裙楼2楼 1.3km southeast of Wangjing station (Line 15)

my Li of Susu is bringing more Southeast Asian cuisine to Beijing, and we couldn’t be happier. Pak Pak, situated in the Daimler Tower in Wangjing, offers classic Thai cuisine served up in a bright, glass-walled space overlooking the courtyard below. There is ample seating for the business lunch and afterwork dinner crowd. Bamboo-sided tables and booths are complemented with honey-hued wood paneling and fishbowl-lights suspended from the ceiling. A small, bar-style seating area towards the back affords diners a full view of the kitchen, where they can watch chefs simmer lemongrass and fold coconut milk into curry. For starters, we tried the yam tuaplu, a shrimp dragon bean salad (RMB 58). The crispy-green dragon beans are tossed with toasted coconut flakes and flecks of chili in a coconut sauce. The result? An appetizer that is sweet, spicy and crunchy that left us wanting more. The Thai

milk tea (RMB 20) is piquant and prioritizes tea flavor over sugar, while the fresh coconut drink (RMB 30) is just that: fresh. A raw, young coconut with a straw stuck in a hole at the top, it’s refreshing, and the perfect shot for your Instagram. The pad Thai goong (traditional stir-fried noodles with prawns, RMB 58) is standard, topped with two tender chunks of shrimp and a careful line of chili powder to the side. The gaeng phanaeng (Penang curry with beef, RMB 58) is delightfully hearty and simple. The dishes are all big enough to share, and with this many tempting options, it’d be a shame not to. In the end, Pak Pak offers tasty, straightforward Thai fare for a decent price – we couldn’t ask for more. Vivian Ludford Also try: Lanting, Susu

photo: LOVA

pad thai goong

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW restaurants

Country Glamour Dacha 别墅西餐厅 Daily 10am-3am. 1/F, Ritan Hotel, 1 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District (8563 5765) 朝阳区日坛路1号日坛宾馆1层 800m southeast of Chaoyangmen station (Line 2 and 6)

acha comes straight from the minds of the folks who brought you Chocolate, the club that throws my father’s words “nothing good ever happens after midnight” into question. If Chocolate is the urbane, partying city mouse, then Dacha has aspirations to be the homebody. This role is achieved certainly in name – dacha is Russian for a countryside home – and, in part, in decor. The interior is painted a rustic off-white with antique-style commodes and vintage Soviet irons lying about the dining rooms. You could be in Grandma’s sitting room. And then you catch sight of the sprawling stage with flashing neon lights. Straight country mouse no more. This may mostly be the dacha but the spread is Continental. Menu options range from Russian classics like borscht (RMB 38) and a lovely traditional beet salad (RMB 25) to European standards such as pasta carbonara (RMB 48) and rack of lamb (RMB 98). Do note: at times, prices are also matched for the metropolis. A savory salmon fillet (RMB 75) came buried beneath small boulders of soft potato and a deluge of cheese. A smattering of summer fruit (cherries and blueberries) garnished the duck breast (RMB 98) – a sweet surprise alongside the anticipated asparagus. From sushi to pizza, Dacha attempts it all, a laudable effort, but one that can feel a bit thin at times. Cat Nelson

photo: sui

Also try: White Nights, Traktirr Pushkin

September 2013

JUST DESSERTS

SEMI COOL, TOTALLY SWEET Mercante 商贾

Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong, Dongcheng District (8402 5098) 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 800m northwest of Nanluogu Xiang station (Line 6)

n its brief existence, Mercante has deservedly become the darling of Dongcheng with its delicate, housemade pastas and carefully curated selection of cold cuts and cheeses. The dolci hang low at the bottom of the menu; the metaphor to use here would be one of ripe fruit, but in fact the selection is largely of cream and chocolate (with hints of nuts and coffee): a panna cotta, a tiramisu. It’s hard to go wrong with panna cotta (RMB 36), and they certainly don’t. Silken, rich, and creamy, it’s a dessert born from the charming Italian proclivity for the kind of voluminous opulence that produced silk brocades, chiaroscuro and strong espressos. The tiramisu (RMB 36) was more divisive – the coffee taste too concentrated and overpowering for everyone but me. The hot tip I had followed, however, was for two sweets you won’t find on the menu elsewhere in Beijing. The Italian tradition of a semifreddo hits a transitory state between frozen and liquid, approaching the texture of

a frozen mousse. And in these languid evenings of late summer, when the days almost surreptitiously slip into the few glorious weeks of Beijing’s ephemeral autumn, there is something achingly right about a “half cold” sweet. These “half colds,” the stracchino della duchessa (RMB 56) and the semifreddo al nocino (RMB 48), are local specialties of Parma with marscapone bases frozen right at zero degrees – no more, no less. The stracchino has a center of the fresh cheese mixed with hazelnut, flecked with dark chocolate, lined with lady fingers soaked in rum and bitter coffee. The second semifreddo has been flavored with nocino, a regional walnut liquor. The deep, nutty flavors contrast with the airy texture of this lighter frozen sweet as premature fall breezes unexpectedly sweep away the remnants of heavy humidity from the hutongs outside. Cat Nelson

September 2013

photo: mitchell pe masilun

Semifreddo al nocino

LAST ORDERS

Wu Keyong

Activities and Events Coordinator, That’s Mandarin

Each month, we ask noteworthy Beijingers to imagine their final meal before leaving the city for good. The venue To start, we would meet up in one of my favorite spaces, a café called Stoic that is hidden in Haidian. It’s a quiet, cozy place with old fashioned bookshelves and interesting furnishings. Once we’ve had some catch-up time and a few drinks we would move on to Dongbeiren near Dongzhimen, a couple of minutes from That’s Mandarin. If you love traditional Chinese cuisine, you won’t be disappointed when exploring their menu. Whether you go for hot, cold, sweet or spicy, they always deliver. The starters To get the taste buds going, we would start off with some small dishes such as spicy vegetables, sour cucumbers, and marinated radish.

photo: lova

Main course Chicken is my favorite meat, and I love spicy food, so I would recommend làzǐ jīdīng (辣子鸡丁) to my guests that can take the heat. For those who have a milder palate, I’d suggest jīngjiàng ròusī (京酱肉丝), a traditional Beijing pork dish found here. Dish(es) from your own venue? During our cooking classes, we have covered a number

of Chinese favorites. Recently, we cooked up some traditional Beijing-style zhájiàng miàn (炸酱面), noodles. Our foreign students really enjoy learning all the steps – the preparation and the cooking. I would ask the chef at Dongbeiren if the students could use their kitchen to rustle up a side of these for us. The music and entertainment I like a chilled-out mix of music that is not too overpowering, with the focus being on conversation and a relaxed atmosphere. Lara Fabian and Josh Groban are my favorite singers, so they would feature heavily throughout the playlist. Both artists sing in a variety of languages that is perfect for my multinational guests. Their sound encompasses classical, pop and folk. Finally, KTV is becoming increasingly a part of my life, so it would only be right to finish the night with a sing-a-long! Learn how to make mooncakes and improve your Chinese with That’s Mandarin, September 13 at 7-9pm. That’s Mandarin Mon-Fri 8am-9pm, Sat-Sun 8am-7pm. 1/F, Office Bldg B, Xinzhong Yuan, Xinzhong Jie, Dongcheng District (5218 6432) 东城区新中街新中园写字楼B座1层

September 2013

BACK FOR MORE

executive chef brian reimer

Capital Classics Maison Boulud 布鲁宫 Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 6-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, 6-10pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (6559 9200) 东城区前门东大街23号 200m east of Qianmen station (Line 2)

in large font – tuna, crab, scallop, pig, duck, and so on – makes it all seem so simple. But understated is a more accurate assessment. Instead, look closer at the smaller font and then taste. The crab (RMB 248) is wrapped in avocado with tomato water gelee, a caper emulsion, and cilantro leaves. The tuna comes with a variation of Nicoise salad that means the briny bite of olive plays against the softer salt of the soy in which the yellow fin was poached. You don’t come for innovation but for contemporary classics expertly executed. What arrives at the table is effortless. The golden chicken (RMB 538 for two people) recalls memories of a weekday supper around the kitchen table, but elevated. The accompanying polenta, comfort food though it may be, stands out and its strong Parmesan flavor lingers. If a meal at Maison Boulud seems like a small fortune to invest, there are certainly occasions that deserve it and your faith in the kitchen won’t be misplaced. Cat Nelson

September 2013

photo: SUI

ith the recent spotlight on Chef Daniel Boulud and his projects – a profile by The New Yorker and return review to Daniel by The New York Times – this summer, our own outpost of the Boulud empire with their upcoming fifth anniversary this month seemed worthy of a second visit. There’s a distinct air to Maison Boulud which puts it above the fray. Far-flung from the tumult of Sanlitun, the Ch’ien Men 23 compound brushes yet eschews stodgy, embodying instead a stately elegance. Starting with a drink in the high-ceilinged, black and white-tiled drawing room isn’t a bad idea if you come for an early dinner; there is a name for that hour, after all. The cocktail list presents a set selection of classics as well as an offering of seasonal specialties, all RMB 98. The Poire Sidetrack (Bosc pear-infused Godet cognac, Cointreau, lime juice) with its golden yellow tone was well-matched for the height of summer and will carry well into the beginnings of fall. A quick glance at the supper menu and single words

September 2013

ALLEYWAY GOURMET

fish and vegetable congee

Congee Conversion Hongji Chaoshan Clay Pot Congee 鸿记潮汕砂锅粥 Daily 10am-3am. 95 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (8403 3981) 东城区鼓楼东大街95号 800m north of Nanluogu Xiang station (Line 6)

held a serving of shrimp and scallop, little treasures that were surprisingly numerous. To keep the tabletop lively, we also ordered an oyster omelet (RMB 18) and barbecue pork buns (RMB 15) – both rich and filling. The restaurant offers congee pot sizes for one, two, three and five people, but the first size is more than enough for two. Flavors come in various combinations of meat and seafood: duck, mushroom and shrimp, short ribs, scallop and shrimp and more. For creative customers, the option to customize is available. There are turf congees for non-seafood eaters and traditional Cantonese dim sum, soups and stir-fries for variety. When my friend had dragged me in and I saw the first half of the menu was nothing but congee I shivered with trepidation, but the meal that followed was a sweet hymn that coaxed my heart into acceptance. Now I believe in gruel. Nick Richards

September 2013

photo: Jessica Rapp

he first time I ate congee it was lukewarm, slimy and, to tell the truth, gross. Teaching primary school in Guangdong province I came into work every morning armed with a spoon, ready to wage battle with that tin bowl of goo waiting for me on my desk. I lost that battle every morning, until finally the school gave up its crusade to convert me to gruel. Almost a decade later, and I faced the same struggle again. This time it was a friend who dragged me into the long hall-like space that once housed Gulou’s only Mexican restaurant – Amigo – now home to Hongji Chaoshan, a regional Cantonese eatery. The rice slurry that my friend ordered came out hot and bubbly in a clay pot, great for slurping on a breezy late-summer night. We tried the crab, shrimp and scallop congee for two (RMB 98). The big chunks of crab were hard to get into, but the sweet flavors of seafood and ginger were already infused in the broth. Each spoonful

WOKIPEDIA

A O is for … … octopus 生蚝 They may not be as cringe-inducing as the creepy crawly legs of centipedes or poisoned stingers of scorpions, but tentacles have their own unsettling charms. Octopus is another example of Beijing’s eclectic street food culture. You can find miniature octopi grilled three to a skewer – head and all – or if you’re a leg man, other vendors will serve tentacles only. One thing is constant: the spicing. Octopus itself is bland, but grilled in oil and onions and seasoned with sesame seeds, chili powder, and garlic, it becomes an exhilarating mix of flavors and textures. … oolong tea 乌龙茶 The “crow dragon” of Chinese tea (sometimes spelled wulong), oolong curls and twists back on itself much like the tail of a beast might. It’s a product of strong sun, semi-oxidized and halfway between a green and a black tea. All “true teas” are made from the plant species cameilla sinensis; the difference between types hangs on how long they are fermented, a process that involves crushing tea leaves. The leaf cell enzymes oxidize, darkening the leaves. There’s a variety for everyone, and you’re sure to find a taste bud-pleaser in oolong with its wide spectrum of flavors which waver from floral and fruity to woody, plus the ground in between. … oyster sauce 蚝油 The fable is that oyster sauce originated on the coast of 19th-century Guangdong, the thick brown sauce created out by a forgetful cook who boiled oyster soup for too long. Whether the tale holds water or not, this salty-sweet and pungent condiment has since become a staple of Chinese-American restaurants. It’s second in recognition only to soy sauce and chefs abroad often slip it into anything at all considered Asian. Lee Kum Kee churns out bottles of the sauce, or you can whip up your own fairly simply using sugar, salt, water, cornstarch, and oyster extract.

September 2013

TASTE TEST

The Cure-All “C

A walk down the aisle of supermarket bacon by Cat Nelson

hristmas comes but once a year,” and unfortunately, so too does International Bacon Day. One of those elusive, shifting holidays (falling the Saturday before US Labor Day), this

year it comes on the last day of August. But why not extend it into the month where it normally belongs, we say? Bacon’s just that good. We toured local shops to bring you the best and worst of the cured champion of happy hearts and bellies.

Casa Modena breakfast bacon (RMB 16.90) “If this one and the other one were twins, this guy only narrowly survived the birth because the other one got all the nutrients.” “Tastes like a street sausage with notes of chuanr … is this rat bacon?” “If you googled ‘sick puppy,’ you’d probably get this.” “#baconfail”

Hormel value selected bacon (RMB 14.50) “It’s like salt-flavored chewing gum.” “You wouldn’t want to eat that if you had a cold sore or a gum boil.” “Yeah, it’d be kryptonite to a gum boil.”

September 2013

photo: SUI

Hormel classic American style bacon (RMB 29.50) “Decent balance of fat and flesh – well-marbled” “It has the stubborn lifelessness that is the hallmark of good bacon.” “A Canadian would probably dip this in maple syrup and love it.”

Yurun elaborate bacon (RMB 13.20) “Hits the back of the throat as well. I think this one might be bad for more than just the boils.” “This one was told in school that it would never amount to much and believed it.” “I’m tasting Chinese hot dogs.”

Here-V elaborate bacon (RMB 16.50) “It has all the different colors you’ve come to expect of bacon.” “I can almost see Jordi from Agua holding out a tray with a big grin on his face.” “I liked it. I respected that one.”

Joycome Canadian original bacon (RMB 21.60) “Sure, it’s been smoked … against the fumes of my scooter.” “This has to be Sizzlean … the carob chips of bacon.” “The Benedict egg family must have tossed out their youngest ham because they caught him smoking.”

Itoham smoked bacon (RMB 25.90) “Like parma ham … you could eat this with a slice of cantaloupe.” “It’s like a younger member of the British Conservative Party. There’s a smooth appearance that you know hides a reptilian core.” “Similar aftertaste to liver – straight iron with a hint of nitrates.”

VERDICT We took a misstep at the outset by considering the inclusion of local, hand-crafted heavyweights from Andy’s Craft Sausages and Traitor Zhou’s. But our errant ways quickly came to light after one taster nailed it: “If this was a job interview, they’d get an email back saying, “We think you’re overqualified for the position.” With the competition so grossly unfair, we stuck to the shrink-wrapped varietals, and the winners were markedly clear. Here-V’s mid-range “elaborate bacon” was strides ahead of the rest with the Yankees in the room also fittingly and unknowingly finding a soft spot for Hormel’s classic American bacon.

September 2013

drinks feature

The Incider’s Guide On the cider trail in Beijing by Jeremy Webb Magners Apple Cider It was Magners that, a few years ago, turned around cider’s image in Britain. How did it do this? By being served over ice – a practice that, while snubbed by orthodox cider drinkers, led to a summer renaissance among a younger demographic. With a full, more intense flavor than other ciders available in the capital. Available at: The drive-thru, Cu Ju.

Sidra Natural Manzanova A g re a t o r g a n i c c i d e r – perfect for an environmentalist that’s happy for their cider to be brought over from Spain. The smallest of all the ciders available in Beijing, it doesn’t last long, but is a mini delight. Available at: The drive-thru, Apothecary

Gold Cider B e i j i n g ’s c h e a p e s t a n d easiest-to-find bottled cider. US-based brewer, American Legend, is investing big in the local market and Gold abounds. It’s ubiquitous in most bottleheavy venues, and has popular, if unassuming characteristics. Available at: The Stumble Inn, Frost

photos: mitchell pe masilun and lova

September 2013

ider, an alcoholic drink made from fermented apples or pears, should be more popular in China: it’s sweet and doesn’t taste strongly alcoholic, which suits many of the country’s “lighter” drinkers; it’s equally if not more refreshing than beer on a hot summer day, and most of the world’s apples are grown here. Yet surprisingly few in Beijing know about cider and fewer still know where you can get the drink. For a long time, cider was a thing of Britain’s Monteith’s Crushed Apple Cider A New Zealand brand, which claims that making their cider with 100 percent crushed apples is the best way to preserve the fruit’s natural flavors. It works; this cider is popular and has a more ‘appley’ taste than others on the market. Available at: Bob’s Wine, Biteapitta

countryside – then, later, of its streets (cider became a cheap and potent way to get drunk in the UK). Cider is now trendy again in the UK and its popularity is exploding in countries such as the US – where prior to the Civil War and arrival of German immigrants it was the Yanks’ drink of choice – and Australia. It hasn’t been around long in Beijing, but, as we found out, it’s rapidly finding its way onto more of our shelves and bars.

Savanna Dry The dryness of this South African cider mak es a refreshing change from Beijing’s predominately sweeter options. It’s best enjoyed with a piece of lemon in the neck, and has become popular recently. Available at: The drive-thru, Cu Ju.

Tomos Watkin Taffy Apple Cider Tomos Watkin – a light, slightly acidic Welsh cider – is sold in big pint-sized bottles similar to Magners. As with Magners, there are both apple and pear versions, so if you’re not keen on the apple, be sure to try the pear. Available at: The drive-thru, Heaven Supermarket.

September 2013

SERIOUS SIPS

CUSTOM COCKTAILS IN SHUANGJING

photo: sui

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS D&M BAR Daily 5pm-2am. Building 5 1/F 103, Guanghuabeiyijie (west of Shuangjing Melody KTV), Shuanghuayuan Nanli, Chaoyang District (5602 5299) 朝阳区双花园南里三区合生国际底商5－3号 600m northwest of Shuangjing station (Line 10)

&M Bar was made for the after-work business crowd. Dark and intimate, the boutique bar has the liquored erudition of a private library. A robust, wood-topped bar and a few small tables take up the bulk of the downstairs area, while upstairs is a 20sqm space filled with small booths. Behind the bar, volumes of imported and domestic liquors stand in rows: a vast, formidable gallery of stone-faced sentinels. Something tribal – Tibetan, perhaps – plays in the background, though co-founder Vincent assures me they play anything from jazz to classical on any given day. The menu touts a provocative array of vibrantly-named cocktails catalogued by base. Classic cocktail staples and D&M’s own inventions abound, all laid out in the stark, no-nonsense way of businessmen who know their way around the liquor scene: title, ingredients, price, and an outline of what type of glassware each drink arrives in (Chinese as well as English). Bar master Vincent insists on a customized cocktail and proceeds to quiz me over my preferences: What is my favorite fruit? Do I prefer sweet, sour, salty, or a combination? Vincent, incubated in such bars as Apothecary and Ala House, is a blushing prodigy. He shakes, stirs, and pours with remarkable fluency, submits his creation to me, then watches from the corner of his eye as I take my first sips. The result is delicious: a creamy-sweet concoction of mango juice, yogurt, grenadine syrup, and vodka, served in a shallow snifter and topped with mint and a chunk of fruit (RMB 65). For a sweet-toothed lightweight like me, it’s perfect, though next I think something a little more serious for good measure. The Collins-glassed Highland Cooler (RMB 60) affects a pleasant buzz. Mixed with scotch, fresh lemon juice, syrup, bitters, and real ginger ale, it is the beverage equivalent of a rush of cold air on a muggy day. The scene is a welcome break from the cheap, binge-style pregaming of college: a graduation into adult drinking, you might say. Vivian Ludford Also try: Glen Classic, Apothecary

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS

MAGIC TOUCH?

TOUCH BEIJING Sun-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-late. Courtyard 4 (opposite west entrance of 1949 - The Hidden City), Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District (6777 7785) 朝阳区工体北路4号院（1949西门对面） 500m west of Tuanjiehu station (Line 10)

without panic or hesitation. The drink, a mix of gin, elderflower, fresh lemon, raspberry and thyme, was refreshing and smooth, though I’m not sure Touch can justify their drinks being priced higher than the strong neighboring competition (not you, Nanjie). The Manhattan (RMB 80) was a little heavy on the sweet vermouth, but as imposing as you’d want it to be. With Q Bar and George’s on his resume, George Zhou’s credibility behind the bar is undeniable, and his trademark martinis remain a dependable shout (RMB 70-120). And proving this is not just the George Zhou show, bartenders from America and Taiwan have also contributed several drinks to the cocktail list. The pianist was hammering away at some fairly experimental chords during my off-peak visit, but I expect he’d be worth a listen when the customers show up. George tells us he’s looking to bring a jazz singer aboard, while the kitchen staff is working up a menu of tapas and cold cuts. For my money, Janes & Hooch edges it as the best cocktail bar in this little corner of Beijing, but Touch should likely prove slick enough to gain a high-rolling following. Iain Shaw Also try: George’s, d lounge

September 2013

photo: lova

t was early on a Thursday evening when I visited Touch, but in manager George Zhou’s eyes I saw a man already long into his shift. Zhou’s apparent fatigue hinted at the energy he and his team have invested in creating this upscale cocktail lounge. Meanwhile, a glance around the place reveals somebody has thrown a decent chunk of cash behind the venture. Touch features a sizeable lounge and stage. Sliding doors can be drawn to close off the stage area for private parties. A narrow, high-walled garden terrace and private room offer seclusion from the main lounge, and Zhou proudly points out an unusual cabinet featuring a gyrating hologram of the bar’s logo. I recalled a friend’s earlier comment that Touch was reminiscent of “a James Bond villain’s lair.” On reflection, though, said bad guy would probably fall among 007’s less dangerous adversaries, too enamored with his cigar and negroni to bother with deranged attempts at world domination. While we sized up the drinks list, young Chinese women earnestly filled out employment application forms. It’ll take time to train these new recruits in drinks knowledge. Our waiter needed help to explain what the Raspberry Thyme contained (I wanted to know before splashing out RMB 90), although he did get the job done

WHAT’S NEW BARS & CLUBS

THE GREAT INDOORS WAHOO Daily 10.30am-1.30am. 1-35 Ritan Shang Jie, 39 Shenlu Jie, Chaoyang District (8563 9788) 朝阳区神路街39号日坛上街1－35 600m northeast of Jianguomen station (Lines 1 and 2)

ahoo is part of the “outdoor clubs union,” something hinted at with the eponymous prize game fish slithering through the lettering alongside a prostrate anchor on the bar’s logo. Yet, it seems much more angled towards a retired outdoorsman who made good from his career as a sport fisherman than it does the Bear Grylls type. Presumably they’re going for the lifelong fisherman or hunter perhaps, who spends his days game fishing or rifling elk before returning to his local bar for a nice coffee (RMB 35-45) or a glass of red wine (RMB 268-3,980 per bottle) after a day on the boat/pickup truck. There, he lounges on leather upholstery to watch the game. It’s a pity that things seem a little muddled at the moment, because the modern space has great potential. Two floors with a sizable bar on both, a gloriously sundrenched outdoor area out front and back, and a pool table and stage area on the upper floor, which hosts regular saxophone band nights. I can imagine a lot of people who would enjoy a drink in Wahoo, it has a lot of charm after all. But not Bear.

photo: sui

Also try: Soccer Bar, Luga’s Villa

September 2013

COCKTAIL PROFILER

n a balmy summer night, where better to sip cocktails than on the terrace of The Bar at Migas? It would have been a pity to miss the opportunity to get up there and enjoy some original creations from

expert mixologist Francesco before the chill sets in. And so it was that Francesco, with 21 years in the game behind him, set about blowing the taste buds of our four subjects. TOBIAS Interesting fact: The first live concert German-native Tobias ever went to was Vanilla Ice when he was 11. He hasn’t been to another live gig since.

Every month we ask one of the city’s expert mixologists to profile a selection of Beijingers based on a single snapshot and a single fact.

Served: Stirred with ice and strained into a chilled glass. Garnished with a maraschino cherry and orange twist. “Very smooth. I expected it to be stronger, but it’s super smooth.”

To have one of Beijing’s best bartenders create a drink especially for you, email us at do@thebeijinger.com with a photo and an interesting fact about yourself.

September 2013

photos: mitchell pe masilun

The resulting drink: Caribbean Manhattan Ingredients: 50ml Sailor Jerry Spiced rum 30ml Martini Rosso One bar spoon of Jagermeister

KIRIN Interesting fact: Football fan Kirin has lived in China for nine years. Being British, Kirin was hoping for something gin-based. Unfortunately, he got a tequila twist on a whiskey classic. The resulting drink: Smoked Mexican Old Fashioned Ingredients: 60ml Tequila Don Julio Reposado Three dashes of angostura bitters One sugar cube

Served: With the glass pre-smoked in rosemary, stirred over ice cubes and garnished with orange. “Not gin, but very good. Can really taste the hints of rosemary .”

VICKY Interesting fact: Vicky enjoys travelling, drawing, and making new discoveries. She was given a spicy twist on her favorite, a Moscow Mule. The resulting drink: Ginger Kiss Ingredients: 50ml Ketel One vodka 30ml fresh lime juice 25ml sugar syrup One egg white Ginger beer

Served: Shaken with ice and fine strained into a chilled glass. Garnished with two slices of ginger. “Very fresh. I thought the ginger would make it bitter. This would be a good way to start my night!”

SYLVIA Interesting fact: Sylvia loves fashion and food. Always wanting to try something new, Sylvia was given a departure from her normally sweet preference, with a sour concoction. The resulting drink: Basil Smash Ingredients: 60ml Tanqueray Ten gin 30ml fresh lemon juice 25ml sugar syrup 20ml egg white One stick of lemongrass

Served: Shaken with ice and fine strained into a glass with crushed ice. Garnished with basil leaves. “I love the basil flavor. I think this would creep up on you after a few.”

September 2013

Made in China

HOMEGROWN GRAPES

Why your next bottle of wine should be Chinese by Jim Boyce

“Sure, leaded or unleaded?” Now, for a bit more truth. Some Chinese wines are quite nice. They might be hard to find – distribution is a big problem for small producers – and might not offer as much value as their counterparts from places such as Chile, Australia and Spain, but they are worth a try. And we see more and more of them in Beijing, everywhere from restaurants like Temple, Maison Boulud and Grill 79 to delivery outfits like Gung Ho! Pizza. But where to buy some for home use? In the interest of these uncertain economic times, here is how to get a handful of bottles for a DIY Chinese wine tasting that will cost about RMB 600. You’ll have enough wine for six to 12 friends to taste. Here’s a suggested shopping schedule:

September 2013

photo: jim boyceI

n vino veritas – “In wine, there is truth” – is a saying people passionate about wine love to quote. I generally ignore them, but when it comes to Chinese wine, the truth bit does have some relevance. Can you really trust that RMB 50 bottle on the supermarket shelf? Is it safe to drink? Is it even made from grapes? These are fair questions given general food safety issues in China and the lackluster experience consumers often have with local wine, that is, with the mass brands Great Wall, Dynasty and Changyu that dominate shelf space and take about half of market share. The result, especially among many expatriates, is to see Chinese as a joke. To wit: “Want some Chinese wine?”

Stop 1: The Loop Start with a pair of wines hard to find in retail. First, Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 from Great River Hill in Shandong province. This wine, under the label “Chateau Nine Peaks,” is as fruity and full-bodied as wine gets from those parts, and it has kicked glass in several blind tastings of Chinese wines I organized. Second, Cabernet Gernischt 2011 from Chateau Hansen in Inner Mongolia. Gernischt is being positioned by some as “China’s grape,” because it is supposedly only found here, while others say it is simply transplanted Carmenere. Whatever. I’m more interested in a taster’s comment that this wine is “funky and fun.”These wines are RMB 138 each. Stop 2: East Avenue Jenny Lou’s Grab a bottle of Helan Mountain Dry Red 2008, made in Ningxia by global drinks monster Pernod Ricard. For reasons I don’t understand, it is nearly impossible to find Helan Mountain wines in retail or get them directly from Pernod Ricard, so this one – a bit dated but holding its own – must do. Plus, it has a risk-averse price of RMB 29.80. Stop 3: Everwines Less than a minute’s walk from Jenny Lou’s, this is the retail outlet of distributor Torres, which handles arguably China’s two best operations: Shanxi’s Grace Vineyard and Ningxia’s Silver Heights. There are a dozen Grace wines on offer. I suggest a pair of whites to balance out the reds you already have. Try Premium Chardonnay at RMB 125 (if your budget is tight, the entry-level version is RMB 72) and the ‘Symphony’ Muscat at RMB 199 (get the most recent vintage). That lineup is about RMB 600 and gets you five wines from four regions covering four grape varieties. That’s a nifty little low-cost sampler of Chinese wines. If willing to spend a bit more, add or upgrade to Grace ‘Tasya’s Reserve’ Chardonnay at RMB 199. The newer vintages are nicely oaked and will be a fun contrast to the cheaper Chardonnay. And try a bottle from Silver Heights, like Family Reserve 2010 or 2011. This is China’s outlier winery, a three-person boutique operation many think makes the best wine in this country. Unfortunately, it hasn’t inspired other such ventures, as the trend is still toward big and gaudy, but that’s another story. I suggest you decant this one. Pour it from bottle to a container, one that allows for a big surface area of wine to interact with the air, and let it breathe as you work through the other wines. Then decide for yourself whether or not it deserves the accolades. Jim Boyce is the founder and primary writer for the wine blog Grape Wall of China, www.grapewallofchina.com.

September 2013

Q&A are cool and fresh. In the harvest season of autumn, wild mushrooms collected from the mountains are perfect. Lastly, I think truffle would be the best for winter, not only because it’s luxurious, but because dishes with a rich sauce have far more of a winter flavor. What dish do you have the most memories of from childhood? Chou (cabbage) made by my mother; I have never been able to copy it. What are your comfort foods? Foie gras. If you could only eat one thing for the rest of your life, what would it be? Chicken – because it can be cooked in a thousand different ways. What is your earliest memory of Chinese food? Beijing duck. Do you have a favorite Chinese dish? What is it? The king crab made by Chef Da Dong.

Silence is Golden Daniel Chambon, Visiting Chef at Brasserie Flo by Cat Nelson

What is your favorite ingredient for each different season? Why? People love the youth and tenderness of the spring season, and asparagus, egg, onion and garlic best express this. For summer, fresh fish, caviar and tomato

What is the most surprising reaction to your cooking that you have ever received from a patron? Silence. What has surprised me the most is when all the guests were enjoying my food to the point of silence. What is the one dish you hate to cook but that customers demand? Why? There is not one dish in particular, but I do dislike when the ingredients are not in season or locally sourced. How do you tailor your menu to Beijing and the ingredients available here? I gather all the ingredients available here and we work on it, a la francaise. Experience the onset of autumn from September 13-22 with Chef Chambon’s seasonal tastes, and for the month following when the Brasserie Flo kitchen continues his menu.

September 2013

photo: courtesy of Daniel Chambon

ailing from Quercy-Perigord, France, an area famous for the rich flavors of truffle, foie gras and walnuts, Chef Daniel Chambon is making his way to Beijing this month. With a passion for cooking inherited from his mother, Chef Chambon has a taste for both the simple and the lavish. He tells us about cabbage and foie gras, chicken and kaoya, and the moments of silence inspired by his cooking.

What do you find most exciting about being a guest chef? The most exciting thing is when I can share new tastes and flavors with different people and make them happy through this experience.

p.s. we ate you Every month, we like to shine a spotlight on the most delicious dishes we’ve stumbled upon recently. Dig in! four cheese stuffed pizza Stuff’d, RMB 70 A humongous hot pocket exploding with mozzarella, Parmesan, Gruyere, cream cheese, tomato sauce, sundried tomatoes and roasted garlic. You can’t resist letting the shrapnel from this bomb of oozy goodness burn your tongue a little, and you won’t regret it. homemade ravioli Cepe, RMB 198 Masterly parcels of pasta containing a Parmesan “fondue,” with pine nuts and asparagus multiplying the flavor. Momma didn’t always make it this good. peanut yogurt blend Ideas, RMB 28 (L) It’s breakfast in a cup. The thick combo of muesli, peanuts, yogurt, strawberries and bananas in this smoothie puts brain food like Wheaties to shame; it’s called the “super energy blend” after all. It takes some time to knock back a large glass of the stuff, but the sweet hints of fruit and the satisfaction you feel when you’ve hit your last drop makes the endeavor worth it. teriyaki chicken Kato-ya, RMB 48 Admittedly, we mainly came here for the RMB 35 all-youcan-drink beer and sake deal, but the no-frills food didn’t disappoint. While most opt for the pork and cheese katsu, we chose the teriyaki chicken, served in big strips of breast meat and dripping with deliciously sweet teriyaki sauce. It comes with miso soup and a heaping portion of rice. If our stomachs hadn’t been constricted from sitting on the floor, we’d certainly have eaten inappropriate amounts. weekend brunch Beer Mania, RMB 88 The bacon-and-eggs part might not be as thrilling to British tastes as Vineyard Cafe’s full English, but it’s a solid effort, and when you factor in a bread basket, croissants and waffles, the RMB 88 starts to seem like a bargain. Add RMB 50 for a cheese and cold cuts plate. The set includes a fruit juice and coffee or tea, but if the sun’s out, you’ll be tempted to add a Belgian beer.

September 2013

Things to do, places to be, stuff to try

This belongs in a museum. p62.

DPRK // ODD MUSEUMS // CAPOEIRA // ECO-FRIENDLY FROCKS

September 2013

photo: courtesy of the organizer

The Rubber Duck comes to the capital as part of Beijing Design Week, Sep 26-Oct 3. See www.thebeijinger.com/events for more details.

Inspect-a-gadget PrepStation Toolbox This magic toolbox provides up to 40 sets of professional bike tools, all arranged in a six-compartment trolley. A must-have for cycling enthusiasts who want to tune and repair bicycles by themselves. www.topeak.com RMB 6,300

Sony AS-15 Camcorder This sports camcorder is designed to capture video or pictures while you’re in motion. Just attach it to a helmet or arm (with proper mount or adapter) and record your cycling adventure in HD. www.sony.com.cn RMB 2,600

Cool LED Light Clamp The clamp integrates two LED lamps and can be installed under a bike seat. With both constant and flashing modes, the Cool LED Light Clamp provides safety as well as stylish appeal. www.wf-cnc.com Price TBA

Set Up for Cycling by Joey Guo

Abus 450 KF Traveller Made with water-repellent material and featuring a waterproof transparent map compartment on top, this handlebar bag keeps everything needed for a bike trip safe and handy. www.abus.com RMB 490

Mini Rocket iGlow Mini Pump I t ’s more than a pump for a c ycling emergency, this mini-pump’s transparent barrel glows with red LED light, keeping the rider visible and safe in the dark. www.topeak.com RMB 250

Contigo Grace Water Bottle Its button design allows for easy, one-handed drinking. Press the autoseal button and drink.The lid automatically seals when released. www.mycontigo.com RMB 130

September 2013

Get Your Fix(ie) Continew Cycle Company Daily noon-10pm. F-16C, 1/F, Zhucheng Bldg, 6A Zhongguancun South Street, Haidian District (186 0021 5885) 海淀区中关村南大街甲六号铸诚大厦底商F-16C 500m southeast of Renmin Daxue station (Line 4)

photo: mitchell pe masilun

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops

wners Ryo and Ink had a dream: to create a hub where bike aficionados could buy the things they liked, get the services they needed, and enjoy the company they sought. The result is Continew Cycle Company, a vibrant, fixed-gear shop that specializes in custom-built bikes, tune-ups, and all the fixings in between. The shop is dominated by rows of bike parts hung on walls and suspended from the ceiling to maximize space – all in a dizzying array of colors, from pragmatic gray to ostentatious lime green. Customers can conjure up their own bikes by hand-selecting each part, then surrendering the collection to Ryo or Ink, who fasten everything together with astonishing speed (building a complete bike takes as little as three hours). The result is a bicycle tailored perfectly to suit each person’s desires, from tire height to handlebar streamers (or not), to hues of the pedals. A standard bike costs around RMB 2,500, which may sound like a hefty investment but definitely pays off: Ryo tells me he’s been riding his for almost five years. Masters of customer service, Ryo and Ink offer bicycle customers complimentary, in-shop tune-ups for standard wear and tear. A glass-faced refrigerator stands in one corner, offering cold bottles of water and beer along with iced tea and soft drinks. Those waiting for a repair can head to the back of the store, where a futon, flatscreen TV, and a tall display of DVDs and video games await. If you’re not into that, you can browse the selection of streetwear featured in the front of the store, including T-Level bags and an eclectic selection of original, handmade T-shirts designed by one of Ryo’s friends. Canvas bombers, tank tops, slacks, paisley urban-prep button-downs and hats are all also available. Overall, Continew is your ultimate stop for all things bicycle: from the machines themselves to the crowd, right down to the streetwear, Ryo and Ink have got you covered. Vivian Ludford Also try: Natooke, Oryx

September 2013

Guitar Heaven GuGu Music 谷谷音乐体验中心

Daily 10am-9pm. Room 102, B1, Qiangyou Dasha, Bldg 32 Minwangyuan, Dongcheng District (6405 2013) www.gugu123.com 东城区民旺园32号楼强佑大厦B1层102室 500m south of Andingmen station (Line 2)

photo: sui

September 2013

WHAT’S NEW Venues & shops

“T

here are no good guitar shops in Beijing,” said Nick Feng, the visionary behind GuGu Music. He’s right. Too much fake stock floats around those cramped Xinjiekou music stores. GuGu Music is a different experience. The aisles are filled with glittering guitars, drums and accessories organized by brands like Fender and Gibson. Clienteles are free to try any instrument they like for as long as they like. A little boy played around freely on cymbals and drums, providing the soundtrack to our visit. Staff is friendly and everything is authentic. A QR code scanning system gives customers peace of mind as they can use their smartphones to check prices and specs for instruments. For guitar aficionados, the real draw is the pro workshop where professionally-trained luthiers tweak, and polish guitars to a quality standard. During our visit, we asked for a guitar setup, and rather than giving us a sloppy string change and quick dusting, the luthiers carefully took apart pieces that were encrusted with rust (a typical symptom guitars suffer in Beijing’s climate) and ground and polished them on the spot, without us even asking. The string change and adjustments to the action were spot-on for RMB 260. At the heart of Feng’s hopes for the store is building a community. A coffee bar and events room not only offers a nice environment to relax in, but is the venue for regular Guitar Hero competitions and percussion workshops. Walking up the stairs from an underground warehouse filled with musical equipment, Feng explains his vision. “Everything is real and sold at market price. I’ve visited many world-class music shops in different countries and I want to create the same experience in Beijing.” He certainly has. Nick Richards Also try: Dong’s Guitar Shop, Hengyun Musical Instruments

September 2013

feature

The Fight, the Passion, the Rhythm

Party with the masters of a Brazilian martial art by Nick Richards

eptember is warming up to be just as hot as August, but not for meteorological reasons. China is celebrating Brazilian Culture this month and on Brazil National Day (Sep 7) Capoeira Mandinga Beijing is promising to get your sweat dripping as you dance and party with internationally renowned capoeira masters. Capoeira is a form of martial arts developed mainly by African slaves in Brazil around the 16th century. To avoid punishment or execution, the slaves trained under the guise of dancers, performing low, swooping kicks to the groovy rhythms of traditional berimbau music.

On Brazil National Day the school is flying in some international capoeira big shots for a powerful performance. Fans of the video game Tekken will get to meet the character Eddy Gordo in person: Mestre Marcelo Caveirinha, also founder of Capoeira Mandinga. Others might recognize Mestre Poncianinho, who showed off his moves in Harry Potter and at age 24 is the youngest capoeira master. Price is RMB 60 or RMB 100 at the door. See capoeirabeijing.com for more details. Brazil Passion takes place September 7 at Mako Live House. Ginga The basic position from which all other movements are derived

BASIC MOVEMENTS

1.Esquiva An escape move, usually performed with one arm on the ground and a good base for leverage

2.Queda de rims An elbow stand. This is also an escape move where the player drops very close to the ground and locks their hips on top of their elbows. The legs are free to move about. Many combos also end this way.

3.Meia lua de compasso

4.Armada A spinning

upright kick

4 58

September 2013

photo: mitchell pe masilun

A spinning kick with arms on the ground. The name of this move means â&#x20AC;&#x153;half moon like a compassâ&#x20AC;? because the movement emulates the rotation of a compass. Half moon refers to the semi-circular trajectory of the leg.

ACROBATIC MOVEMENTS

5. Au de frente A forward walkover which starts from

a cartwheel

6. Macaco empe A back walkover on one hand starting from a standing position

7.Au batido A kicking handstand

7 59

September 2013

GET THE LOOK Masked Reaction Chi Zhang, RMB 850 Beijing-born designer Chi Zhang has come out with a new collection of decorative, gas maskthemed shirts and bottoms. The unisex tops complement just about any air filter mask on the market.

Cotton Fields Sweater Neemic, RMB 788 Neemic is a Beijingbased project two years in the making by Amihan Zemp and Hans Martin Galliker. The designers promote sustainable practices in the industry and use organic or upcycled fabrics in their collections. This breathable sweatshirt boasts their tian (field) logo and is made with organic cotton.

Snake Skin Clutch D-SATA, RMB 2950 Designer Currie Lee uses natural and recycled materials from Southeast Asian “cottage industries” in her handmade products. This clutch is made from hand-dyed snake skin and hand-engraved brass. Available on anyshopstyle.com.

Climate Creative by Jessica Rapp

nvironmentally-friendly clothing is trending in Beijing, with fast fashion outlets like H&M promising new lines of sustainable wear and local designers like Neemic and Brand Nu using recycled textiles. However, just like the lines can be blurred when it comes to organic farming practices, it’s sometimes difficult to sift through terms like “handmade,”“organic,” “sustainable,” and “recycled,” to figure out what’s what in the fashion industry. So, in the spirit of a wide spectrum of eco-consciousness, here are six pieces that have the climate worked into their concept. Hollis Cotton One-Piece Snoozer Loser, RMB 490 Run around in this hand-printed romper made with 100 percent Japanese cotton. Snoozer Loser pieces are constructed in their New York City studio and a selection of them are available on anyshopstyle.com

Basic Jersey Tank H&M, RMB 49.90 Fast fashion labels notoriously get criticism for making environmentally un-conscious decisions to help streamline their manufacturing processes, but H&M is one company to step up recently and declare new guidelines for sustainable practices, such as sourcing synthetic fabrics or organic cotton, like in this comfy piece.

Hand Painted Skirt The Yesterday Skin, RMB 554 While they don’t use organic fabric, Hong Kong-based The Yesterday Skin promotes upcycling by selling quality secondhand and vintage pieces, like this 100 percent polyester piece with a zippered back.

September 2013

GET OUT

Get Stamped in Sinuiju Hong Kong is so 1997. Do your visa run to North Korea

hose 30 days tick down so quickly. Where to go? Hong Kong , the old standard, is never cheap and still kind of hot. Seoul? Sure, the leather shopping and the food are wonderful, but similarly expensive, and that subway map, yikes. Isn’t there a better way? Indeed there is. Welcome to the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), which is now allowing one-day tours of border city Sinuiju, just across the Yalu River from Dandong in Liaoning province. While this is not the kind of visa run where one stocks up on cosmetics, snacks from home, or the latest issue of a favorite magazine, it certainly ticks a box for fascinating travel, and well, gives you another 30 days. One thing is for sure: few if any of your friends will have already visited Sinuiju, one of the DPRK’s most photographed (its residents and buildings can be seen and snapped from the China side), having received its first Western tourist only this year. During the day-long tour (overnight stays are not yet permitted), visitors will see the local revolutionary museum; the statue of Kim Il Sung, grandfather of the current president, Kim Jung-un; a kindergarten and local park; an art museum; and a secret local bar. An important note: this is not a destination if you need to apply for a new visa for China. This is strictly an in-andout, passport stamp spot, but certainly a more memorable one. Steven Schwankert Koryo Tours is now offering day trips to Sinuiju from Dandong for RMB 2,290 for one person, or RMB 1,290 per person for groups of ten or more. Learn more at www.koryogroup.com/ travel_sinuiju.php.

September 2013

feature

WEIRD WEEKEND A Visit TO Some of Beijing’s More Peculiar Museums

o celebrate International Museum Month we returned to some of Beijing’s more niche museums for a look around. Our team found the aging exhibits just as bizarre and pleasantly surprising as we’d remembered.

Beijing Police Museum (北京警察博物馆) Initially, I’d rather have stayed on the couch watching DVDs, but I volunteered to visit the Police Museum to get off the sofa for a while one boiling Saturday. Exhibits are found among every nook of the four-storey building. The first floor deals with the history of Chinese Policing, the second is the “famous criminal cases” exhibition, and you can monitor traffic on Chang’an Jie from the third. But the main attraction is the gun collection on the fourth floor. Guns as far as the eye can see. Each of them works of art in their own deadly way. From the ungainly Mausers of the 1940s to the heavy duty machine-guns used right up to

the 1990s, eight shelves loaded with firearms allow you to get some idea of the craftsmanship that goes into each firearm. Pistols from Europe were the prettiest; delicately designed in elegantly cowry – almost too pretty for a deadly weapon. I ended up spending two hours there and am worried I might have inadvertently discovered a new hobby. Crystal Li Beijing Police Museum 北京警察博物馆 Tue-Sun 9am-4pm (last admittance 3.30pm). 36 Dongjiao Minxiang, Dongcheng District (8522 5018) 东城区东交民巷36号

China Numismatic Museum (中国钱币博物馆)

China Numismatic Museum 中国钱币博物馆 Tue-Sun 9am-4pm. RMB 20, RMB 10 (student). 17 Xijiaomin Xiang, Xicheng District (6608 1385) 西城区西交民巷17号

September 2013

photo: crystal li, vivian ludford

The anti-counterfeit currency exhibit helps visitors to spot fake bills, surely that alone is worth the entrance fee. Late night cabbies beware; I can now spot a fake note in a dim dashboard light on a misty evening. People tend to visit museums to get educated. If you can learn how to better look after your money, and ensure you’re not being fleeced then that’s the most valuable education of all, surely. The second floor delves into the ancient currency of China, from the warring states through the various dynasties. From seashells, to the round coins of the Qin Dynasty, even a money tree, and of course, golden nuggets (jin yuanbao) are all on show. Delving deeper into history, the third floor features money from the early Republic of China. Coins close to the time of the demise of the Qing Dynasty reflect a leap in the style of currency making, with a Western influence evident. There are over 30 million coins in the expansive collection housed in the museum. The currency of China has come a long way, but we still don’t have a note bigger than a hundred. Elizabeth Wu

Milu Park MUSEUM (麋鹿公园博物馆) Milu Park is a sweeping eco-reserve that once served as imperial hunting grounds for the Qing Dynasty. The park was originally built in 1985 as a preservation and research center for its namesake – the brawny, antlered species native to the subtropics of China, also known as Père David’s deer – but now functions as a public space where visitors can enjoy nature and see various species of wildlife up close. The museum itself is situated in a tall, white, air-conditioned building at the end of the park. The exhibit is sparse – just a single room outlining the roller-coaster trajectory of the milu’s fortunes: after being wiped out in China at the end of the 19th-century due to illegal export and famine, the milu were finally reintroduced to their homeland in 1985, when the descendants of an

English aristocrat who had collected specimens from various European zoos donated the resulting offspring to China. Outside, the shuttle driver tells me, the heat has driven the milu into the protective shade of the forest. The prairies stretch empty and blank before me: not a milu in sight. Not that the other attendees seem to mind. They are as equally fascinated by the birds – white and black swans, peacocks, and azurewinged magpies, their names and pictures introduced on wooden plaques outside their natural habitats. Milu Park can feel underwhelming at times, but ultimately it’s heartening to know that, just south of Beijing’s dense smog, there is a sprawling expanse of clean, raw nature dedicated to preserving

China’s biodiversity. Just don’t forget your binoculars. Vivian Ludford Milu Park 麋鹿公园 Tue-Sun 9.30am-12pm, 1-3.30pm, Fri 1-2.30pm. Beijing Da Xin Nanhaizi Milu Park, Daxing District. (8796 2105) 大兴区南海子麋鹿公园

Beijing Tap Water Museum (自来水博物馆) It seems a disservice to dismiss the Tap Water Museum simply as an oddity. In a landlocked city facing an risk of water shortage, isn’t there some justification in creating a monument to the challenge of supplying millions of residents with clean, running water? The Tap Water Museum is on the site of the Beijing City Water Supply Company, which was founded in 1908. Behind the European architecture of the “intake pavilion” lies a kind of plumbing graveyard. Trees crowd over the rusting corpses of water pipes and penstocks, with not a drop of water in sight. The main exhibition combines social history, feats of engineering

and an unwanted dose of lifeless propaganda. Ironically, if unsurprisingly, the museum’s treatment of its subject is rather dry. Did you know the Chinese flag hoisted at the declaration of the People’s Republic on October 1,1949 was made by employees of the Water Supply Company? For all the interesting points, though, there are many dud exhibits: photos of officials inspecting pipes, “vintage” water meters, and information on water purification would bore even the most dedicated hydrologist. Exhibits like the public water station, where “tap keepers” rationed portions of water, are a reminder that Beijingers have never been

able to take their water for granted. And they still can’t. As Beijing faces the challenge of maintaining water resources for citizens of the future, the Tap Water Museum might just serve a purpose. But I confess: I did smirk at the sign recounting the installation of “pubic taps” throughout Beijing’s streets in the early 20thcentury. Iain Shaw Beijing Tap Water Museum 自来水博物馆 Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. RMB 5, RMB 2 (students). 6A Dongzhimenwai Beidajie, Dongcheng District (6465 0787) 东城区东直门外北大街甲6号(东直门桥往北200米清水苑内）

September 2013

Things to do, places to be, stuff to try

MEET

“Could get awkward as my character is far from divine.” See p65 “I go in there wearing some sexy ass clothes." See p66 “from the age of 11 I was frequently used as a guinea pig.” See p67 “Powerful, cathartic stoner rock. ” See p68

JEREMIAH JENNE // JEN LIN-LIU // RYAN HA // ALEX TAGGART

Things Justin’s Beliebers have done …

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En ster p m S u e d n a t n death t Hidden i to a to hreats n i k a e n s his gir o t g n i p l o friend h Twitte on Germany n i t r e r c con

Become a Belieber at MasterCard Center on September 29. See www.thebeijinger.com/events for more details.

September 2013

Booklist

Jeremiah Jenne

Director, IES Abroad Beijing Center PhD Candidate, UC Davis The bookshelf in Beijing I would most like to peek at is Chinese President Xi Jinping’s. Given that we don’t know much yet about how he will govern, I’d love to have a look at what he is reading. The person or people who borrow my books the most are my students. I am a history teacher so I lend a lot of books to students. Many of which I actually get back at the end of the semester. The medium I use most to read these days is an electronic reader. I enjoy a good old-fashioned book, but when I’m working, reading something to review, or doing research I love electronic readers because of the ease with which I can record notes and highlights.

photo: courtesy of jeremiah jenne

If you recommended only one book about China, it would be Jeffrey Wasserstrom’s China in the 21st Century: What Everyone Needs to Know. That’s the easy answer. I use it as a core text for students in a class I teach for incoming students. As for a book not intended to be the “one book about China,” I would probably recommend Yu Hua, China in Ten Words. It’s another book I use in class and it reads like a conversation about modern society and recent history with one of China’s better known writers. I pretend to read, but haven’t really finished Retreat of the Elephants by Mark Elvin. Massive tome. Brilliantly written and researched and a must-read for anybody interested in the history of the Chinese people’s relationship with the environment. I am interested, but I’m going to need a long train trip, a prison sentence, or an extended convalescence before I’ll have time to read the whole thing. The book I’m saving for old age is The Scholars 儒林外史 by Wu Jingzi in the original Chinese. Not as well-known (or, frankly, as well-written as 红楼梦 Dream of the Red Chamber) but much more manageable and a whole lot funnier. Alternate project would be Romance of the Three Kingdoms in the original Chinese. I wish I had written the book Confucian China and its Mod-

ern Fate, which was actually written by Joseph Levenson. There’s a reason he was called the “Mozartian historian.” Nobody should be that smart. As for the book that changed my life, it’s hard to say because it’s been a life spent reading. Probably the first one (whatever that was) because it started me on this path. My parents, especially my mom, have always loved to read and I think when I was little I wanted to find out why those pages were so fascinating. After a while, I started reading them myself and never looked back. My favorite book from childhood is The World According to Garp, which I read when I was about nine or ten because somebody told me the author, John Irving, was also from New Hampshire. Yes, I was a weird kid. If I could meet one character from literature or history, fictional or actual, it would be Zeng Guofan. One of the most fascinating figures in Chinese history. A reluctant general and stalwart administrator, he helped defeat the Taiping Rebellion and used his influence to start China on a path to modernize its industry and technology. I’m not sure how the meeting would go though. He had a habit of sitting and staring at visitors for up to half an hour trying to see into their soul and divine their character before he would begin talking. Could get awkward as my character is far from divine. See more of what Jeremiah is reading on his blog, Jottings from a Granite Studio, www.granitestudio.org.

September 2013

Uniformity

Ryan Ha

Chief Operating Officer, Beijing Comedy Club Which uniform was the most flattering? My Beijing Mashup basketball jersey. I like to swag out, so I only cut one sleeve off and leave the other one on. This made me stand out from the rest of the league who either cut both sleeves off or worse yet, none at all! Which uniform was the worst fit? My seventh grade cross country warm-ups. I was about four feet six inches tall at that the time and since I was the new guy on the team I was the last one to pick when the box of warm-ups came around. By the time I could pick mine, the smallest size left was XXXL. Wearing such baggy clothes made me look like a lil’ hoodlum thug. Which uniform did you resent wearing the most? My college graduation gown. They made me buy a gown just to wear it once at graduation. What the hell am I supposed to do with it now?

Tell us a story about wearing a uniform somewhere where you felt out of place. That’s Beijing had a Sexy Circus readers party. The theme was sexy circus so I go in there wearing some sexy ass clothes, ya naw what I mean? Pants, no shirt and just a bow tie - a little bit scandalous, a little bit revealing, you know, something to show off my amazing body (which side note, I make it look easy but it is work, damn it). I get to the party, and the theme only applied to the women, all the men were wearing tailored suits. Which uniform did you have the most fun in? Halloween 2011 in Beijing. I went as Slutty Santa.

Which uniform do you feel most sentimental about? Why? I worked at a bakery when I was 15 years old called Marvelous Market in Washington, DC. That was my first Check www.thebeijinger.com/events for Ryan’s next show. job and wearing that black apron made me feel like an adult.

September 2013

photo: mitchell pe masilun

Which uniform would be considered the least fashionable? The one I had to wear for the Comedy Club China Thanksgiving show. The one suit I owned at the time was still being dry-cleaned so I had to borrow one from my roommate. It was a three-button suit, and we all know that three-button suits are so 1999. It was 2012.

A Drink with

ALEX TAGGART THE SYNDICATE DJ

How old were you when you started drinking? I grew up on a tiny island (Isle of Man) where there was little else to do, so pretty early. But the drinking age was strictly enforced, and I’ve always looked about five years younger than other people my age, so I often had to resort to clandestine methods to get my booze on. Tell us about the first time you were drunk. I observed the great British adolescent rite of passage: sitting in a damp field near my house with two friends and a Thermos full of everything we could find in the booze cabinet. What was your first drink? My dad used to work for a booze distributor, so from the age of about 11 I was frequently used as a guinea pig for drinks aimed at teens, like Bacardi Rio (the forerunner of the illustrious Breezer). Sometimes I had no idea I was drinking alcohol. You’re hosting a cocktail party – what are you making? The Boston Sour – the Whiskey Sour’s egg-infused cousin. Also eggnog at Christmas. In fact, anything with egg in it. The risk of salmonella makes me feel dangerous. We’re at the bar – what are you having? Since I’m incredibly susceptible to promotional campaigns, I’m likely to pick whatever’s got the shiniest tap. Luckily, that’s normally Vedett.

photo: courtesy of ALEX TAGGART

What kind of drink are you? I like to think of myself as an intense single-malt, like Lagavulin (although most would probably say I’m a halffinished bottle of Buckfast).

What’s your favorite drink? Has your favorite drink changed over time? Since adolescence, every stage in my life has been associated with a different drink. Getting used to beer was a big one. Then I went through a very emotional gin and tonic phase, and a sort of fighty cider phase. I’m currently into rosé wine, and losing friends rapidly because of it.

Could you organize a piss-up in a brewery? That’s actually deceptively difficult. They don’t just let you drink all the beer, you know. They’ve got a business to run.

What are your secret watering holes? I like to go to hostel bars and try to impress backpackers, then go home and cry myself to sleep.

What’s your golden rule of drinking? There is absolutely no such thing as good baijiu.

See Alex (DJ Clir) and the rest of The Syndicate crew at their ninth anniversary celebration at Yugong Yishan on Sep 14.

September 2013

playlist

JONATHAN ALPART HOST OF THE SOUND STAGE

What’s your favorite Chinese song, and why? It’s hard to choose one, but probably “Eden” by P.K.14 off their album, White Paper. It’s a perfect creation of tension and release, and I imagine it matches the feeling of many urban Chinese, though few experience the release part. What do you think is the saddest song, and why? I cry every time I listen to “Simple Man” by Lynyrd Skynyrd. It’s about a young boy being told by his mother to stay true to himself and live honestly and simply, but the song is in a minor key and is ironic because it is sung by a rock star that was strung out on fame and drugs. If an alien came to Earth, which song would you recommend them? Probably “Dark Was The Night, Cold Was The Ground” by Blind Willie Johnson, if only because it was chosen by NASA to be included on the Voyager Golden Record that was sent into space for this very reason. Another one of the 27 artists on that record is Guan Pinghu, a guqin player from Suzhou.

JONATHAN’S FIVE-SONG PLAYLIST “Hey Boy” by Residence A If any Chinese band crosses the pond, I hope it is this one. They sing in Chinese, and their music is both original and trendy. It’s catchy, danceable, exciting and inspiring. Look for their new album dropping September 18.

“Wild Dogs” by Never Before When I filmed this band, after their performance I

“Mind Binoculars” by Doc Talk Shock I just recently heard of this band through my friend, Nevin Domer. They are from Dalian. I had no idea there was a scene there, and I wish I’d known about two months ago when I went there for a weekend. “What Love Is” by The Diders I just recently interviewed this punk three-piece, and they had the balls to cover Dead Boys. I dare say that their cover is even better than the original. Get along to The Sound Stage Concert at Yugong Yishan on Saturday Sep 6 and see The Twenties in the flesh.

September 2013

photo: courtesy of JONATHAN ALPART

“When A Song Starts Your Memory” by The Twenties Another contender for “Most Likely Pond-crosser” is The Twenties. They sing and write (fantastically) in English, and their pop-punk songwriting is some of the best I’ve ever heard (and I was graduating high school in ‘03).

was so shaken I had trouble shutting off the camera. Powerful, cathartic stoner rock.

In Search of Spaghetti

PAGE TURNERS

Black Sesame Kitchen founder Jen Lin-Liu looks for THE source OF THE NOODLE by Steven Schwankert

photo: courtesy of Jen Lin-Liu

here were noodles invented: China or Italy? If you mean a long, thin, spaghetti-like thing, then the correct answer is, neither. This and other discoveries await in Black Sesame Kitchen founder Jen Lin-Liu’s On the Noodle Road: From Beijing to Rome with Love and Pasta, published in late July. After more than five years writing for publications including The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal and cooking in Beijing, Lin-Liu started her noodle quest not in a hutong, but while on holiday in Italy. “It was my husband’s and my first trip to Europe. He surprised me with a pasta-making class as a gift. I saw that the method for making fettuccine was the same as that for making noodles in China,” she said in a telephone interview, noting that while proportions and some ingredients, like eggs, of course varied, that the kneading, rolling and cooking processes were almost identical. Having previously published Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China, in this book Lin-Liu discovers that before China made noodles, it made bread, and that in its earliest incarnations, noodles were called bing, a term now associated with smaller bread-like products, like pancakes or rolls. Tang bing, or soup cakes, were the way noodles were first cooked in water and then eaten. The current common turn for noodles, mian, first appeared as a chunkier noodle in western China, in today’s Qinghai province, among ethnic minorities including the Hui. Mian pian, noodle pieces, are still common and popular in Xinjiang and other dishes from western China, Lin-Liu said. A noodle that may have been 4,000 years old was discovered in western China, but dissolved in transit on its way to the Chinese Academy of Sciences. Made from ground millet and not wheat, “that doesn’t really qualify as a noodle,” Lin-Liu declared. Lin-Liu’s biggest surprise wasn’t found at the bottom of a bowl. “It was the many women I met, their hospitality, and the time I spent with them. They put me to shame,” she said, moved by their willingness to share time, cooking methods, and bits about their own lives with someone they had just met. Lin-Liu said she was “invited into homes by Uighurs, Uzbeks, and into a women-only cooking

school in Iran.” As for the Italy-China, chicken and egg question, she said that the well-known story of Marco Polo discovering noodles in China and bringing them back to Italy comes not from his book, The Travels, but from a 1930 US trade publication called, wait for it, Macaroni Journal. Currently living in Chengdu, when Lin-Liu steps off the plane in Beijing and wants noodles, she knows where to go. “My favorite is The Noodle Bar at 1949. It’s not the most authentic, but in Beijing you don’t find too many authentic places anyway. The soup is a little bit Cantonese-style, but their Lanzhou noodle chef gets it just right.” Lin-Liu prefers Noodle Bar’s thin noodles (patrons have the choice of thin or thick), and goes for a half-brisket, half-tendon combination. As for long, skinny noodles, they came neither from China nor Italy. The first reference to this culinary creation was found in Jerusalem, in the fifth century AD, Lin-Liu’s research revealed. Jen Lin-Liu will present a Silk Road Dinner with The Wine Republic at the Orchid Hotel on Sep 7 at 6.30pm; a special noodle cooking course at Black Sesame Kitchen on Sep 8 at 11am; and a book talk for On the Noodle Road: From Beijing to Rome with Love and Pasta at Capital M on Sep 8 at 7pm. Please contact the venues for pricing and reservations. The book is available for at The Bookworm.

September 2013

ECOLOGY

“IN EVERY WALK WITH NATURE ONE RECEIVES FAR MORE THAN HE SEEKS.” – JOHN MUIR

September 2013

photo: Courtesy of MATT HOPE

Matt Hope created a full ventilation system for his transport art project.

The Air FILTERing Bicycle

A local artist pedals past pollution, but is his technology viable? By Kyle Mullin

photo: Courtesy of MATT HOPE

ears ago, our streets were a sea of bicycles. Now the two wheelers that Beijingers were so quick to abandon, in favor gas guzzlers, could help stem the pollution that occasionally plagues China’s capital. At least that’s what thousands of viewers thought when they clicked on a YouTube video made by Britishborn, Beijing-based artist and inventor Matt Hope. In the clip (shot this past winter, when toxic PM2.5 levels broke records), he showcases a dinky bike with a bulky, extraterrestrial looking mask attached to it. The bicycle also features a filtration system that is powered by the rider’s pedaling—a process that elicits sizzling sparks

and zaps from the back wheel, as the contraption picks up speed. The video went viral, and soon local and international media outlets—from China Daily to Reuters— were dropping by Hope’s studio (located in the Caochangdi art district, near the city’s Fifth Ring Road). Their stories and news clips detailed how Hope’s “breathing bike” worked. In a recent telephone interview he told us why his bike works better as social commentary rather than as personal transportation or a pollution fix. Your friend Angus McDougal, who heads up a

September 2013

China is very inefficient. Too much energy is lost through badinsulation and archaic technology like twostroke truck engines. Right now, China operates like a museum of 300 years of world technology, both redundant and ultra modern, fighting to share the same space.

local cycling club called The Big Dirty, told us he likes your bike because “it’s a ridiculous response to a ridiculous situation.” Why might he think that, and do you agree? I really think people wearing masks or using filters for pollution is absurd, because all they have to do is stop burning coal and rubbish, and then you wouldn’t have this problem. Really? Much of the online community took your bike quite seriously, praising it as an impressive invention. I certainly didn’t mean to make something like that as a product. Someone could go out and put an air filter on a bike, it’s really not hard to do. I could make another one tomorrow. I did it more to point out our pollution problem, and partly to make fun of myself at the same time for wearing such a big, ridiculous mask. It’s not really made for mass production, it’s not really practical. We should just try to make the air cleaner rather than filtering it. So using your bike would just be a superficial solution? Yeah, it’s like trying to stop your kid from looking at pornography. You either shouldn’t have the material in the first place, or you should think of another way to deal with the issue.

But your bike’s design is seen as a modern success— taking in dirty air, filtering it clean, and releasing it. Tell us more about its inner workings. It uses a well-known air cleaning process that employs high voltage, which is powered by the pedaling. With that voltage, the dust particles in the filter become electrically charged, are energized, and subsequently become attracted to a cleaning plate. Coal-fired power stations actually use this process to clean the air in the industrialized world, which is why I chose to use it. That was my inspiration— everywhere I go, I see coal being stored, transported or burned. You told China Daily that you made the filtration system out of old parts lying around in your studio. What did those parts used to be? I needed a gauze or metal mesh to hold some of the dangerous parts of the filtration system in. So I used one of those IKEA wastepaper bins. In essence, I was using readymade products like that, and mixing them with industrial par ts. The bik e was from Walmar t. It cost RMB 180, the cheapest I could find. Those components are all cheap, mass produced, and are no doubt big sources of pollution themselves. People have a desire for very cheap things that can be bought and used quickly. So it made sense to use those together. You have an interesting sense of irony—using mass produced products, from a coal burning factory, to build an air cleaning bike that you don’t think should be mass produced. Yeah. I consider it to be a cultural success, not a success as a product.

photo: Courtesy of Matt Hope

Last year we interviewed Murray Mortson, the CEO of a clean coal company called Airborne. He told us: “70 percent of all the energy in China for power generation comes from coal; without it, 70 percent of the lights and heat would have to be turned off.” My breathing bike is not a viable product, nor is it a solution to China’s air quality or transport dilemma. They need to stop burning coal. Filtering your own air supply does nothing to clean the air as a whole.

September 2013

What are you planning to do?

EVENTS

OUR EDITORS PICK THE BEST OF THE MONTH upload your events at thebeijinger.com/events find all venue info AT THEBEIJINGER.COM/DIRECTORY. please call venues ahead of time to confirm details.

BEIJING MID-AUTUMN MUSIC FESTIVAL

SEP 19 – Dash Berlin, Hardwell and Far East Movement (pictured) are among the first acts to confirm their involvement at the Gongti spectacular. LA-based hip-hop quartet, FEM, are here as part of a world tour in support of their latest album Dirty Bass. Price TBD. 12pm. Workers’ Stadium (5869 7176)

September 2013

EVENTS

4 1. THY ART IS MURDER

SEP 8 – Australian deathcore act sets out to kill it at Yugong. Not for the faint of heart. RMB 240, RMB 400 (VIP, includes signature, photo and poster). 8pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

2. CMCB ALBUM RELEASE

SEP 7 – The rap-rockers return from a stint on the road to showcase tunes from their new album 2013, with some as-yet unreleased material also promised. RMB 80, RMB 60 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

3. THE SYNDICATE’S 9TH ANNIVERSARY

SEP 14 – Drum ‘n’ bass superstar DJ Fresh helps The Syndicate to celebrate their ninth birthday. And with Sennheiser providing the same sound system The Syndicate boys used to level INTRO this year, it’s set to be quite the party. Featuring performances from DJ Blackie, Donkey Tonk, Clir, Kay C and Elemental. RMB 160, RMB 120 (advance). 10pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

4. EF

SEP 13 – Swedish rockers return for a second tour of China, promoting the melodic explorations of their new album, Ceremonies. RMB 80. 8pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

5. DANCE AGAINST AIDS

SEP 30 – There’s no substitute for contraception, but Migas’ resident DJs team up with Metro Tokyo and Diego Acapulco to promote HIV/AIDS awareness. Half of ticket proceeds go to China AIDS Walk. RMB 50. 9.30pm. The Bar at Migas (5208 6061)

September 2013

don’t miss HEALTHY BODY, HEALTHY MIND 20TH BEIJING INTERNATIONAL BOOK FAIR

SEP 1 – Covering more than 53,000 square meters, a bookworm’s paradise winds up on Sep 1, so get along to enjoy the 262 stands and 2,010 exhibitors from 75 countries and regions displaying more than 200,000 book titles before it’s too late. Contact www.bibf.net for more details. Free. Time TBD. China International Exhibition Center (6586 6995)

ON THE NOODLE ROAD BOOK TALK

SEP 7 - Founder of the Black Sesame Kitchen and author of Serve the People and the newly released On the Noodle Road, Jen Lin-Liu will be leading a cooking class and book talk. Recipes taught will be from her most recent release. RMB388. 6.30-9pm. Orchid Hotel (136 9147 4408)

BEIJING WELLBEING: SEMINAR FOR NEWCOMERS

SEP 4 – All you need to know as you touch down in Beijing is covered in this seminar. Discussion will revolve around how you can adapt and thrive in your new environment and some of the dangers of living in this vibrant city, as well as nutritional and practical tips to het you going. Free. 10.30am. Vista Medical Center (8529 6618)

CHARITY FOOTBALL EVENT

SEP 22 – Lace up your boots for a good cause in a 7-a-side tournament aiming to raise money for an orphanage. The competition is followed by an awards gala at Dacha. Contact info@shiji-marketing.com for more information and registration. Price and time TBD. Chaoyang Sports Center (135 2094 7204)

BENCHAM-HOEGAARDEN REGATTA 2013

SEP 6-8 – Join the BenCham members as battles recommences at the annual regatta. Return transport from Beijing, two nights’ accommodation, all meals, all sailing equipment, and tuition for two days is included in the cost. Contact regatta@ bencham.org for more information. RMB 2,400, RMB 1,800 (BenCham members), RMB 1,200 (children aged 8-14). Time TBD. Beijing Sailing Center (8523 6101)

BEIJING INTERNATIONAL TRIATHLON 2013

SEP 21 – Swim, cycle and run your way to glory in this fulllength triathlon. The event is currently fully registered, but you can put your name on the waiting list before September 9 if you’re keen to take part. USD 70. 8am. Qinglong Lake Park

2013 CHINA TENNIS OPEN

SEP 22-OCT 6 – Stars including Novak Djokovic will be in town for China’s top tennis tournament. RMB 10-3,580. Tickets at www.piao.com.cn. National Tennis Center

POLE DANCING COMPETITION

SEP 7 – Beijing’s sexiest dance contest returns. 50 percent off all drinks before 9pm. RMB 99 (includes one drink), 9pm. Zeta Bar, Hilton Beijing (5865 5000)

BEIJING FRINGE FESTIVAL: EXPLICA DANZA

SEP 23-25 – Spanish contemporary dance from Toni Jordar and Beatriu Daniel. Price TBD. 7.30pm. Chaoyang Culture Center (8599 6011)

September 2013

EVENTS

4 1. A STORY OF CHILDREN AND FILM

SEP 8 – Asian premiere of this documentary about the role kids have played in cinema through the ages, directed by film historian and critic Mark Cousins. RMB 20, RMB 15 (students). 4.30pm. UCCA (5780 0200)

2. MICHAEL MAYER

SEP 18 – Kompakt Records head honcho visits Beijing as Haze relaunches with a new look. Price TBD. 11pm. Haze (5900 6128)

3. URBAN BEEKEEPING

SEP 21 – This class covers everything you need to know about becoming a big-city apiarist, from the basics of “bee-havior” to harvesting honey. RSVP essential: email safi@shangrilafarms.com to book your spot. RMB 150. 11am-3pm. Shangrila Farms (8451 0613)

4. DYNAZTY

SEP 15 – The Swedish rockers return to Beijing 12 months on for round two after a successful jaunt first time round, as they prepare to release their fourth studio album. RMB 110, RMB 90 (advance). 8pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080)

5. MUNICH OKTOBERFEST

SEP 6-21 – The original German piss-up comes to Beijing on tour. Prepare for the full range of authentic Oktoberfest traditions, including Lederhosen, comely frauleins, Bavarian music, and of course, loads of beer. RMB 10. 2pm. Olympic Green and Olympic Forest Park (8437 7261)

5 6

September 2013

EVENTS 1. BRAZIL PASSION

SEP 7 – Capoeira Mandinga hosts an evening of capoeira, cocktails and Brazilian beats as part of Brazilian cultural month. Prizes to be won in the raffle. RMB 100, RMB 60 (before Aug 29, includes free drink). Tickets at 186 1170 5854 or www.capoeirabeijing.com. 8pm. Mako Live House (5205 1112/3)

2. SAMUEL L SESSION

SEP 6 – With as rap sheet of dance floor classics as long as his illustrious career in the electronic music scene, Swedish native Session comes to Beijing with an enviable back catalogue to roll out. RMB 100, RMB 60 (advance). 10pm. Lantern (135 0134 8785)

September 2013

EVENTS

1. LUSH RUSH

SEP 16-22 – Remember your Fresher’s Week? Probably not. But it’s never too late to make some fresher memories – Beijing has its own version and you can get involved. Join the Wudaokou gang at Lush and Pyro Pizza for a week of drunken debauchery to welcome the latest university intake. Check www.lushbeijing.com for details. Prices and times vary. Lush (8286 3566)

2. GREAT AUSSIE BBQ

SEP 15 – Chuck another shrimp on the barbie. And a whole lot more, too, as AustCham team up with China World Hotel for a family-friendly day out. Free buses from CBD to Shunyi and back. RMB 150, RMB 100 (AustCham members). 11am-5pm. Dulwich College Beijing (6454 9000)

3. GIRLS ON DECK

SEP 18 – Local spinners BB Deng and Diva take control with five hours of techno house to spice up your Moon Festival. While BB spins, Diva sings. Free. 10.30pm. Dada (183 1108 0818)

4. JUAN SUÁREZ AND KISKO GARCIA: SPANISH CHEFS EVENT SEP 11-12 – The Sanlitun restaurant welcomes two expert chefs – currently working in Espana – as they look to forge a gastronomical fusion between Chinese and Spanish foods. Price and time TBD. Huang Ting, The Peninsula Beijing (6510 6707)

September 2013

EVENTS

1. BEER and SAUSAGE PAIRING

SEP 5 – Sample four meaty treats from Andy’s Craft Sausages, washed down with eight beers selected by The drive-thru. RMB 125. 7.30-11pm. The drive-thru (139 1113 6564)

2. CHINA RESTAURANT WEEK 2013

SEP 2-8 – The week-long munchfest returns to the capital for a fourth edition. As we went to print, 32 restaurants had signed up to participate offering discounted meals to all those registered at the website (www.diningcity.com). See website for more details.

September 2013

PEKING MAN

George Tries ... GUASHA and Cupping I by George Ding

’m the kind of guy that’ll try anything once. It’s not back. Almost immediately the pain set in. One by one he placed the cups along my shoulders necessarily a healthy way to live – you end up doing and down the small of my back to my waist. Each new a lot of stuff you regret – but it surely is exciting. I’d heard about guasha (back scraping) and fire cup- jar brought a new spotlight of pain. After two minutes, I could no longer move. It hurt ping, that one-two punch of traditional Chinese medicine, before – almost every masseuse unfortunate enough to even to shift; my skin was stretched taut like a canvas on a frame. When I tried to shift my body, I’d hear the jars knead my stiff, adamantine back recommends it. chime as they hit one another. My latest masseuse seemed very concerned. I lay there, ensconced in pain. “Your body is very stiff,” he observed. “Are you under “Five more minutes,” he said. a lot of pressure?” When it was over, the Master twisted each jar and “Yes,” I told him. “I also suffer from crippling anxiety.” “That’s not good for your kidneys,” he said. “You really one by one they loosened with a satisfying pop. If the should get guasha and cupping done by one of our scraping made me look like the victim of domestic abuse, the cupping made it look like I had been bitten by giant masters.” mosquitoes. My skin rose in huge Although I want to believe in bumps like dark red tumuli. traditional Chinese medicine, it’s WHEN PAIN HAD BECOME THE I asked the Master what exactly never worked for me. Then again, I NORM, THE RELATIVE LACK OF this sado-masochistic ritual would only take it when I get sick and after PAIN WAS A BLESSING accomplish. It certainly felt like a couple days of waiting I hit the something had changed. When Tylenol. But I’d never tried guasha or cupping before so I thought why not, the worst that could pain had become the norm, the relative lack of pain was a blessing. I felt lighter and, who knows, maybe even happen is nothing ... right? Maybe not quite right. The Master was a man in his 50s with close-cropped healthier. The Master explained that the suction opens up pathhair. We exchanged pleasantries as he gently unfolded a square of cloth. Inside was a rectangular piece of bronze ways within the body and allows impurities to be drawn the size of a smartphone that he held as gently as if it were out. All of a sudden, the healthy feeling I had dissipated, a bar of gold. The bronze was dull around the edges and I replaced by an overwhelming sense of skepticism. I immediately regretted asking the question. wondered how he planned to scrape my back with it. If impurities could be sucked out of the body, could Turns out, the bronze tablet didn’t need to be sharp because he pressed it deep into my back as he dragged cupping be done at home with the hose attachment to a it up and down. Even though my back was oiled, it felt vacuum cleaner? Also, by the same principle, are hickeys good for your health? like he was relieving me of my epidermis. I pressed the Master for an answer and he mumbled I told him it hurt but he just chuckled, “Oh this is something about meridians and said that I needed to take nothing!” Afterward, my back was crisscrossed by red gashes, better care of my kidneys. I thanked him for his time. Outside, I realized that the worst thing that can haplike a bad rash. But the fun wasn’t over. The Master took out a leather box full of glass jars. Out pen isn’t nothing. It’s paying someone to abuse you and of nowhere a cotton ball soaked with rubbing alcohol not getting off on it. I don’t regret getting guasha and burst aflame. He swabbed the inside of each cup with cupping – they make for some beautiful bruises – but the ball of fire, and then placed the cup gingerly on my it’s something I’d try once, and only once.

September 2013