The Dockyard Times FREE!
All the news and information on Bermuda’s historic Dockyard—and beyond
DockyardTimes.com
2015
INSIDE
Eat, Drink & Be Merry
The House on the Hill
All the delicious meals, tasty treats and thirstquenching cocktails available in Dockyard.
Fascinating and Historic Commissioner’s House
See page 10
By W. C. Stevenson
Dockyard: Home of Beyond Dockyard Explore the whole island. See page 22
So Much to See and Do at Botanical Gardens Bermuda’s most popular national park features a world class museum and more. See page 25
PLUS Go & Do pG 12 Get Wet & Wild pG 14 Shop pG 16 Experience It pG 19 The Historic Buildings of Dockyard pG 26
a forbidding stone edifice dominating the skyline, was built by convicts as a military barracks. Subsequently, it served as a prison whose thick, impregnable walls are reminiscent of the Bastille. Now in
From 1919 until the closing of the Dockyard in 1951, the Commissioner’s House was actually a ship called the HMS Malabar. It did not sail, or motor, or even float, but it was a ship nonetheless. The British, with infinite patience for tradition, have a habit of commissioning such houses as ships, and the HMS Malabar was one of them. Unsurprising, considering that the building served as allied HQ for North Atlantic radio interceptions during WWII. But that is only a sliver of the story. Edward Holl, Chief Architect of the Royal Navy, designed the extraordinary building in 1822. Construction began in 1823 and was complete by 1827. Commissioner’s House was designed with cast iron replacing all structural wood, and was the first residential building in the Western Hemisphere to utilise cast-iron framing. The floor framing, truss-work and verandah pillars are iron castings fabricated in England that were transported to Bermuda aboard sailing ships for assembly according to Holl’s plan. Like many other Dockyard buildings, the walls of Commissioner’s House are hard Bermuda limestone, which was quarried and shaped into blocks by convicts from Britain, and lesser numbers of local workers and slaves. In its early years of
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the 35th America’s Cup By W.C. Stevenson If you haven’t noticed already, an exciting new chapter in Bermuda’s history is being written in Dockyard these days. The world’s premier sailing competition, the America’s Cup, is coming to our shores in 2017. Over the next two years a lot will be changing around the historic Dockyard as it gears up to play host to the 35th edition of the cup, which happens every three to five years. The America’s Cup is the oldest international sporting trophy in the world and the pinnacle of yacht racing. The winner of
the trophy is determined through a series of one-on-one match races between the holders of the cup, the defender, and a challenger. Similar to Formula One, winning requires teams to harness the twin forces of cutting edge technology and unparalleled tactical nous, resulting in one of the most spectacular competitions ever to grace the international sporting stage. Beating out bids from San Diego and Chicago, the decision by defending champion Team Oracle USA to stage the event in Bermuda, a British territory, marked the first time an American team has not defended the title on home territory. It is also Continued on page 2
A Jewel in Bermuda’s Crown by Elizabeth Jones Officially, Bermuda has just two towns, the City of Hamilton and the Town of St. George. But arguably the Royal Naval Dockyard, locally known as Dockyard and situated on the western tip of the island, has so many amenities it could be seen as the island’s third town. Boasting Bermuda’s largest museum, a marina, a shopping mall, restaurants and an authentic British pub, as well as a number of arts related centres, Dockyard is one of Bermuda’s key attractions. In fact for many of our visitors arriving on the island by ship, Dockyard is their first destination since it is currently the only port suitable for mega cruise ships. It can easily be explored on foot and during the cruise ship season by Segway and or by train. Scenically, Dockyard is always engaging for its views of yachts,
Carole Holding at Heritage Wharf, Dockyard Shopping and Duty Free | 9am to 9pm
tugs, and pilot boats, for its cruise ships and ferries. When berthed at Dockyard, the Spirit of Bermuda, a schooner designed by the Bermuda Sloop Foundation to train Bermuda’s youth in maritime arts, recalls the days when Grassy Bay was filled with sailing ships. Casemates,
The Fairmont Southampton & The Fairmont Hamilton Princess
Carole Holding at Bermuda Shop Boutique Clocktower Mall, Dockyard | 9am to 6pm
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Bermuda America’s Cup village renderings of the new hospitality area, stage and team base view. © ACEA
Dockyard: Home of the 35th America’s Cup Continued from page 1 thanks to team Oracle that the latest rounds of the America’s Cup have perhaps been the most exciting in the cup’s history, made possible by radical new boat designs. Owned by software billionaire Frank Ellison, Oracle USA set an unprecedented, technological challenge for the 2013 Louis Vuitton Cup by debuting a 72-foot-long catamaran with a carbon-fibre wing sail capable of reaching speeds of up to 50mph. Widely recognised as the fastest sailboat ever made, the AC72 looked terrific on television compared to mono-hull boats of the past, attracting a much wider audience than ever before. With a price tag around $8 million, the AC72 was complex and expensive, and that $8 million is only a fraction of the budget required to operate an America’s Cup team, which will run you around $100 million. For 2017, competitors will be sailing AC62s, a ten-foot smaller version of the lightening quick AC72s. This should knock a fraction
off the price tag, making it easier for competitors to meet the high financial stakes, but the scaling down of the boats is a direct result of having a smaller area in which to race. “Our island will provide an unprecedented
The cup races will be held in Summer 2017 in the Great Sound, which will provide a number of spectacular vantage points from Dockyard, serving as a natural amphitheater for what promises to be the most spectacular event ever to grace Bermuda’s shores. on-water spectator experience ... a range of wind conditions that will provide the most intriguing design challenges for the teams and certainly test the world’s best sailors,” said Premier Michael Dunkley when Bermuda was announced as the winning bid in December, 2014.
A Jewel in Bermuda’s Crown Continued from page 1 the process of being renovated as part of the National Museum of Bermuda, it closed as a prison in 1995. The Royal Naval Dockyard’s name and the names of its roads and lanes—Freeport Road, Maritime Lane, Camber Road, for example—give the clue to its naval history. Once Britain lost its American ports after it lost the American War of Independence in 1783, it needed a mid-Atlantic port in case of war with America and France and to protect its interests in the Caribbean. Bermuda’s geographical position made it the ideal location. So the story of Dockyard began in 1809 when work began to carve out Bermuda’s largest fortifications from local stone. At first slave labour was used, but after Emancipation in 1834 convicts sentenced to transportation from Britain and housed in hulks off Bermuda’s shores were used instead. Eventually, Dockyard became a bustling naval centre where until 1951 when the Royal Navy pulled out, many Bermudians trained as apprenticed masons, electricians and engineers. In those days Dockyard was known as “Little England.” After the pull out the area went through a period of neglect until the 1970s and ’80s saw its transformation into an im-
Oracle skipper James Spithill said: “The past America’s Cups were long courses way off shore, not that exciting and very difficult to see, almost impossible. Now as you saw in the last edition it’s stadium sailing, it’s about
portant island destination. In 1975 the fortress became the Bermuda Maritime Museum which in turn was recently renamed the National Museum of Bermuda. Tickets also include entrance to the Commissioner’s House, restored in the year 2000 as an additional heritage museum and a must see for history buffs since its numerous exhibitions focus on different stages of Bermudian history. One room is devoted to a magnificent mural by Graham Foster depicting the whole of Bermuda’s history. Atop a steep hill, it has panoramic views of the North and South Shores. But Dockyard has plenty to offer visitors not so interested in history. The Clocktower overlooking the water and the King’s Wharf beyond was once a vast storehouse. Now its ground floor houses the Clocktower Shopping Mall although its ambience is more bazaar than mall. Visitors in search of gifts have a wide choice—jewellery, linens, candles, ladies’ fashions, prints, crafts, as well as all kinds of Bermuda souvenirs, are just a few of the items to be found here. An ice cream bar within the mall is popular as well as a restaurant. Dockyard is also a centre for artists and artisans. For example Bermuda Clayworks on Camber Road is where local
potters drawing on Bermuda colours and scenery for inspiration create a whole range of ceramics. Nearby is Bermuda Glassworks where visitors can watch glass blowers create beautiful pieces inspired by Bermuda’s flora and fauna in an array of colours. Both places, as well as the Bermuda Craft Market and Bermuda Arts Centre on Maritime Lane opposite the Museum’s entrance, are well worth a visit for those in search of an authentic Bermuda made souvenir or gift. For visitors in search of water recreation there are plenty of opportunities. They can swim with the dolphins thanks to Dolphin Quest located within the grounds of the Museum and they can snorkel and swim at Snorkel Park, next to the Dockyard Playground on Maritime Lane. The beach is ideal for kids while parents can relax at the beach bar on the water’s edge. Watersports and water vehicle rentals can be easily booked and include scuba diving, snorkelling, water skiing, jet skiing, sailing, helmet diving, kayaking and parasailing. Fishing trips can also be arranged. Visitors staying elsewhere in Bermuda can easily access Dockyard from the City of Hamilton by bus or by ferry.
getting the fans and spectators on the sidelines like a football match. This race course allows that. The great thing about Bermuda is you can see the entire track.” The cup races will be held in Summer 2017 in the Great Sound, which will provide
a number of spectacular vantage points from Dockyard, serving as a natural amphitheater for what promises to be the most spectacular event ever to grace Bermuda’s shores. The format for the 35th regatta will consist of races in an America’s Cup World Series in venues around the world where entries from Britain, France, Italy, Sweden and New Zealand will fight for the right to challenge Oracle in Bermuda. In previous years, syndicates gathered in one venue to race each other before the winner went on to face the holders. “We’re halfway there,” joked Ben Ainslie, who will spearhead Britain’s challenge to bring the “Auld Mug” back to Britain for the first time since it was held in 1851. “As a British team we obviously have quite historic ties to Bermuda so we are absolutely delighted.” In addition, the America’s Cup World Series—the first of the racing circuit’s stages— will be held in the Great Sound, in full view of Dockyard, from October 16-18, 2015.
The House on the Hill Continued from page 1 operation, the Commissioner’s House was Bermuda’s equivalent of the White House in Washington DC. While its primary purpose was to serve as the ceremonial residence of the respective civilian commissioner in overall charge of the Dockyard, it also housed administrative offices and quarters for visiting state officials. The House was occupied by Dockyard Commissioners from 1827 to 1837 and was then turned over to the Army, which retained control of it until 1862. The House served as the Royal Marine Barracks from 1862 to 1914, and as married quarters and barracks for naval ratings during the First World War. When the British left the Dockyard in 1951, the tenacre Keep and Commissioner’s House were left to decay until 1974 when the Bermuda Maritime Museum took responsibility for the historic buildings and grounds. Early on, the Museum committed
to the restoration of Commissioner’s House. After 25 years and the efforts of many private and corporate donors and volunteers, the restoration of the building was achieved in 2000, adding elegant new exhibition and special events space to the Museum. Now seen as a major new asset for the cultural heritage of the Island, Commissioner’s House was the largest restoration project ever undertaken in
Publisher & Editor | Tina Stevenson tina@thebermudian.com Art Director | Laura Ann Bell laura@thebermudian.com Published By | The Bermudian Publishing Company Limited, April 2015
Bermuda. And gaze upon it now from far out at sea, on a hazy, salty day, the westernmost landmark in Bermuda may appear to rise from the ocean, seeming to float… just like a ship. A variety of new exhibitions on Bermuda’s social and military history, and special collections are now on show inside. The Commissioner’s House is also available for events rental.
Published by The Bermudian Publishing Company Limited, P.O. Box HM 283, Hamilton HM AX, Bermuda. Tel: 441-232-7041. Fax: 441-232-7042. E-mail: info@ thebermudian.bm. Website: www.thebermudian. com. All rights reserved. Reprints only by permission of the publisher. The publishers cannot be responsible for the contents of any advertisement and readers are advised to use their own discretion in responding to same.
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Royal Naval Dockyard: A Brief History The Royal Naval Dockyard was constructed as a direct result of the independence of the English American colonies in 1783, when the British were left without a base between Halifax and the West Indies. The British soon identified Bermuda as a strategic mid-Atlantic location where a secure anchorage for
the Navy’s fleet and a dockyard, victualling yard and ordnance depot to maintain the ships could be developed. In 1795 a base was commissioned in the island’s east end at St. George’s, but it soon proved inadequate and the area known as Ireland Island in the west end was purchased by
the Navy for the major naval base. Construction of the North America and West Indies Station, as the base eventually became known, began in 1809 and continued into the early 20th Century. Construction of the Dockyard–including its breakwaters, fortifications, storehouses, workshops, and barracks–was a
monumental effort that involved large land reclamations and the labour of thousands of convicts from Britain. In the early 1950s, the Royal Navy left the main Dockyard and most of the area was transferred to the Bermuda Government, though the naval base was not officially closed
until 1995. After 1953 the Dockyard was used very little and left to various degrading forces. Yet as early as the 1960s the idea of a museum at Dockyard was ripening in some minds, and in 1975 Bermuda Maritime Museum was officially opened to the public in the fortress known as the Keep. By the early
1980s, the government began to restore the Dockyard as a cultural tourism destination, based in part on the success of the Maritime Museum. Today Dockyard is the most visited site in Bermuda, underscoring the value of architectural heritage to the tourism industry. Source: www.bmm.bm
New Playground Open at NMB
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orget the typical monkey bars and swings, a new playground and Museum Playhouse at the National Museum of Bermuda offers children a much more colourful and exciting experience. With its wooden 21-foot lighthouse encircled by a vibrant green moray eel weaving its way through sea grass poles, this playground is as visually stunning as it is thrilling for visiting children to explore and play. This interactive playground was designed by award-winning Danish firm Monstrum which has become famous for their unique and spec-
tacular playground design. Founded in 2003 by theatre set designers Ole B. Nielsen and Christian Jensen, the company focuses on creative playgrounds including wobbly-looking buildings, giant spiders, shipwrecks, snakes and even a dragon or two. Adjacent to the playground and due to open this spring is the Museum Playhouse. Designed by Bermudian artists Russell DeMoura and James Cooper of Fungus Collective in conjunction with the museum, the playhouse features a multitude of interactive exhibits relating to Dockyard and Bermuda’s history. “Much
like a Pixar film, the Playhouse has lots of hidden secrets and adult jokes to make it fun for the whole family,” said Strong. Situated right next to Dolphin Quest where visitors can swim with the dolphins or just sit and watch them swimming and interacting with the facilitators, the Museum Playground & Playhouse is a big draw for families looking for something different to do during their visit. The Playground and Playhouse were generously sponsored by the ACE Foundation.
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‘The Hall of History’ is a magnificent, larger than life mural by Bermudian artist, Graham Foster, to be found in the towering halls of Commissioner’s House at the National Museum of Bermuda in Dockyard. The two storey, 1,000-square-foot interior mural depicts, in Foster’s illustrative style with incredible detail, five centuries of Bermuda’s history, and took approximately 7,000 hours—over three years—to complete. Born in 1970, Graham is the son of physician Elizabeth Foster and Alec Foster. A professional artist since 1995, he was educated at The Bermuda College and The Museum School of Fine Arts in Boston. His paintings tend to follow one of two directions—one inspired by Bermuda’s fish, flora, fauna, and people, captured in a characteristically surreal style, the other is looser and more expressionistic, often inspired by dreams and the subconscious. Foster is a sculptor—primarily in welded steel—as well as a painter. In 2002, he became the first Bermudian artist to have a work purchased for the permanent collection of The Bermuda National Gallery, a welded steel triptych entitled ’21st Century Fetish Family’. Many of his sculptures are strongly influenced by Tribal Art.
Photo by Scott Tucker
500 Years of History in One Magnificent Mural
The mural: Fast Facts Artist Graham Foster pictured with his mural in Commissioner’s House On November 25th 2009, Her Majesty The Queen, officially opened ‘The Hall of History’ mural and was presented with a painting by the artist, ‘The Wreck of the Sea Venture’.
An impressive coffee table book, Hall of History: Bermuda’s Story in Art was released by The National Museum of Bermuda in the winter of 2011 and not only depicts the great
mural in detail, but gives an in depth exploration of Foster’s creative process and research for the three and a half years before he began painting the mural.
• Painting started late 2005 • Completed March 2009 • 7,000 hours to complete • Panels painted in studio then transferred to the museum • Venue was in ruins when work began
the Curator: The Good Doctor: Ed Harris Meet Elena Strong By Elizabeth Jones
Ever since 1980 the man behind the National Museum of Bermuda has been Bermuda’s own Dr. Edward Harris, author, historian and archaeologist. It has been under his directorship the former Bermuda Maritime Museum has expanded to include the restored Comit’s a key attraction within the missioner’s House, as well as National Museum and home Casemate Barracks. The Com- to many exhibits about Bermissioner’s House, built in the muda’s culture and history. 1820s as the grandiose home But how did Dr. Harris’s of an extravagant civilian passion for Dockyard and for head of Dockyard, could have the Museum begin? become a crumbling ruin. “I love old buildings,” he Instead, thanks to Dr Harris’s says, “and the Dockyard is fundraising campaign and one of the major heritage commitment to its restoration, places in Bermuda because itDockyard reopenedTimes in the1-8 year 2000 of setting, buildings and 1 2015_Layout 1 its 2/13/15 12:07 PM Page as a beautiful museum. Now fortifications.”
His interest in history goes back to his school days. Born and brought up in Bermuda, he attended Mount St. Agnes Academy where his history teacher, Sister Jean de Chantal Kennedy, herself the author of several Bermuda histories, including Isle of Devils and Biography of a Colonial Town, inspired in him his first interest in archaeology. As he explains later when he was 20, “I started digging at Winchester, the original capital of England, and found I had an aptitude for excavation and loved the work.” Dr. Harris studied at Columbia University in New York City for his BA in anthropology and then went to University College London where he received a PhD in
National Treasure Visit NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. See the massive mural of Bermuda history, our exhibit Shipwreck Island, spectacular views, and a new fun-filled playground for the kids!
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archaeology. In 1973 he became internationally famous in the archaeological world for his invention of the “Harris Matrix” which has revolutionised how archaeologists excavate, record and interpret archaeological sites. “It will be 40 years old next year and is still going strong,” he explains. Indeed, free copies of his text book can be downloaded at www.harrismatrix.com. In his role as executive director, he is also responsible for the Museum’s publications which include scholarly books about Bermuda’s history as well as the annual Bermuda Journal of Archaeology and Maritime History. For many years he wrote a “Heritage Matters” column for the Mid-Ocean News. In 2007 and 2008 these articles on Bermuda’s history have been republished into books entitled Heritage Matters Volumes 1 and 2. He sees the Museum’s publications as being very important. “After exhibitions they are a major way to get the message of history and heritage out to the public.” Now that he has overseen the Bermuda Maritime Museum’s transition into the National Museum of Bermuda, what plans for the future? Casemates, once a grim prison and before that a military barracks, is now in the process of being restored and will offer additional exhibition and education space. In the meantime Dr. Harris says, “We will continue to increase our range of collections, exhibitions, research and publications.”
Elena Strong, Curator at the National Museum of Bermuda, is required to take on many roles in her position. Caring and preserving the Museum collections, although vastly important, is only the beginning of what it takes to keep the Museum at Dockyard ever-evolving and interesting. Education, public outreach, exhibits and putting together the Museum magazine, Maritimes are also a large part of her job. Hired in 2007 as a consultant to develop an exhibit, Elena respected the work carried out by the Museum and after completing her Bsc. in Anthropology and her Masters in Museum Studies, she took a chance and applied for a job at the Museum, which was then known as the Bermuda Maritime Museum. At only 35-years-old, Elena plays an important role at the National Museum in part because she is charged with recovering and preserving Bermuda’s culture and heritage. “I’m constantly learning about all facets of Bermuda’s heritage and history and am privileged to interact regularly with experts in the fields of archaeology and history as well as the general public and local students,” she says. One of her favourite aspects of her job is taking care of Museum artifacts. “Artifacts I work with range from 5-yearsold to 500-years-old,” says Elena. “I have many favourite artifacts but one that stands out is war club recovered
from a Spanish ship wrecked in Bermuda in 1595. It is made from black palm wood with intricate diamond and curl ornamental designs. It was thought to be a Columbian ceremonial club but recent research uncovered it was a real combat indigenous weapon from Guyana. One blow was able to cause massive head trauma. Only a few exist in the world and amazingly it survived 350 years underwater!” As Elena and the rest of the team at the National Museum of Bermuda look towards the future, they predict the Museum will only get bigger. With the acquisition of Casemate Barracks, future exhibits and collecting will be much more representative of Bermuda as a whole, rather than its maritime history, as it was in the past. Says Elena, “The Museum wants to stay relevant to the people of Bermuda and continue to protect and preserve Bermuda’s heritage for future generations.”
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Shipwreck Island: Sunken clues to Bermuda’s past By Elena Strong, Curator of National Museum of Bermuda
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hipwreck Island: Sunken Clues to Bermuda’s Past, on display at the National Museum of Bermuda, tells the story of Bermuda’s discovery, early settlement and history (from 1505 to 1684) through the lens of a collection of 16th- and 17th-century shipwreck artifacts recovered from Bermuda waters. It features Bermuda’s earliest wrecks, with more than 1,500 shipwreck artifacts on display that are of international and local significance. The collection includes large cannon, rare New World indigenous weapons, intact olive jars, silver coins, colonial pottery, medical, navigation and ship tools and exotic trade goods from the New World and Asia. The exhibit also explores life aboard ship, the people who discovered Bermuda’s earliest shipwrecks, underwater archaeology and the importance of protecting our underwater cultural heritage for future generations. For five centuries, hundreds of vessels have come to grief on Bermuda’s encircling reefs due to pilot error, raging storms, inaccurate charts and the historical inability to accurately determine one’s position at sea. These wrecks are more than a collection of fascinating and precious objects. They are material records of Bermuda’s interaction with the Atlantic World, offering insight into life on board ship and the technology, activities, craftsmanship and cultures of the past. Shipwreck Island takes you back to the dawn of the Atlantic World when European ships crossed the ocean in search of new lands and riches. Advances in science and geometry generated during the Renaissance greatly improved ship design, creating vessels that could endure long ocean voyages. These new
ships represented the most advanced technology of the age—equivalent to our own space shuttle—and led the way for European expansion and conquest of the New World. Many of these ships found their fate on Bermuda’s reefs. Discovered in 1505 by pioneering Spanish navigator Juan Bermudez, the uninhabited island of Bermuda quickly became a navigational landmark for ships returning from the New World. Once safely north of the Island’s reefs, vessels caught westerly winds that propelled them east for home. For more than a century, Bermuda had a fearsome reputation as the ‘Isle of Devils’. It was only in 1603 that the Spanish took a closer look and found a fertile archipelago with gentle bays and teeming with wildlife. Nevertheless, Spain remained preoccupied with gold and silver in the New World, and left Bermuda unsettled—ripe for the taking by the English.
In 1609, the Sea Venture, an English merchantman carrying colonists and much needed supplies to the floundering colony of Jamestown, Virginia, wrecked at Bermuda. Everyone survived the wreck and 10 months later set sail to Jamestown on two vessels they built using Bermuda cedar and salvaged timbers of the Sea Venture. Soon reports reached England that Bermuda was not the cursed island of myth but a strategically located island with abundance of fresh produce that could help with the survival of the English American Colonies. With the interest of the English captured, Bermuda was settled in 1612. The exhibit continues with the story of the first 70 years of Bermuda settlement, during which Bermuda developed its own unique Atlantic culture divergent of English ways. Bermuda became densely settled with compact family farms and home to English, Welsh and
Dutch settlers, Africans, Hispanic Americans of African descent and Native Americans from the Caribbean and the Chesapeake. It was ruled by a parent company—the Virginia Company (later called the Somers Isle Company—based in London, that kept a tight rein on local life, infusing religion, politics and culture with Puritan ideals and monopolising the Island’s economy and trade. For decades Bermudians struggled with the Company’s exclusive control.) During early settlement, shipwrecks and their cargoes were a source of materials, goods and equipment otherwise too expensive or difficult to obtain on an isolated island. Salvors would strip timber and gear above the water line and free-dive or use dive bells to recover submerged items. There was however, a fine line between plunder and salvage. When the Spanish ship San Antonio wrecked in 1621, Governor Nathaniel Butler claimed her gold, sliver and ordnance for the Company, while Bermudians salvaged what was left. Spain cried foul but demands for compensation were never met. By 1680, Bermudian salvors and their dive bells were well known throughout the Caribbean. The exhibition also concentrates on the locals who discovered the historic shipwrecks and the archaeological work that has been carried out on them. Bermuda shipwrecks are a tangible archive of Atlantic history and the interaction of African, American and European cultures and the National Museum has archaeological recorded and investigated many local shipwrecks and sites to help protect Bermuda’s unique underwater cultural heritage. It is illegal to disturb shipwreck sites and remove artifacts unless you have a license issued by the Bermuda Government. If you dive or snorkel shipwrecks, do so responsibly. Take only pictures and leave only bubbles.
pink sand jewellery Bermudian artist Alexandra Mosher creates sculptural jewellery incorporating Bermuda’s famous pink sand into Sterling silver and gold to create captivating pieces of wearable art.
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Preserving Bermuda’s Craft Heritage By Elizabeth Jones Situated opposite the entrance to the National Museum of Bermuda, the Bermuda Craft Market, home to Bermuda’s artisan co-operative, is appropriately on the site of the old Cooperage where workers at the Royal Naval Dockyard used to make barrels, essential for storing foods preserved in salt. They also crafted kegs for storing liquids, particularly rum since it was part of the soldiers’ daily rations. So it is appropriate the Frog and Onion Pub is also on this site. In this age of the digital and synthetic, it is easy to forget how once Bermudians depended on craft for household and fishing equipment, for clothes, hats and decoration and for light. The Bermuda Craft Market, a registered charity, is Dockyard’s way of preserving Bermuda’s craft heritage and it is here that visitors can see Bermuda’s largest collection of handmade items and find an authentically Bermudian gift. Often visitors can watch artisans at work so they can have a better understanding the processes involved. One artisan, Jeanine Smith, for example, demon-
‘Dockyard Slipway’ by Christopher Marson
strates the making of paper roses. Gifts range from handmade candles to china and sea glass handpainted in Bermudian designs and colours. Ronnie Chameau’s traditional Bermudian dolls and angels crafted out of dried banana leaves and palmetto are reminders that once hats made out of palmetto plait were a significant export and were fashionable in London. Bermuda cedar is an important part of the island’s history since it was essential for shipbuilding and for creating fine furniture. Today wood turner Llewellyn Emery can often be seen making on his lathe lamps, candlesticks, bowls and boxes out of this fragrant wood. Christmas tree ornaments are particularly popular since they are a permanent reminder of a Bermuda visit. Some pay homage to Bermuda’s unique drumming and dancing troupe, the Gombeys, while others are crafted out of shells and glass. Small ceramic Bermudian cottages evoke the island’s traditional architecture. Jewellery is an important part of the Market’s wares. Lynn Morrell is known for her exquisite silver
Bermuda’s Spirit A training vessel for the island’s youth By W. C. Stevenson
jewellery, often Bermuda-inspired. Bermuda longtail birds, oleander blossoms, sand dollars and shells are just a few of the flora and fauna she celebrates through her designs. She is also renowned for her handstitched quilts that are more art than craft. During the cruise ship season visitors can taste Bermuda-made rum, beer and preserves in the atrium. In addition to crafts, the Market also has a book and print corner where book lovers can find secondhand and often out-of-print publications about Bermuda. Prints and original antique maps of the island are also available.
The Spirit of Bermuda is not some ephemeral platitude about culture, or society, or island life in general… it is a ship, a Bermuda Sloop, to be exact. Spirit is a literal manifestation of Bermudian sailing. In the 1800’s, the Bermuda rig was the fastest in the world, and is today the basis for nearly every modern yacht on the ocean. Spirit was built in the, well… spirit of the now-archetypical Bermuda rig seen across the world. But unlike the sloops-of-war built in Dockyard for the Royal Navy, The Spirit of Bermuda is devoted to a more genteel mission. She is a sail training vessel, purpose-built as a 21st century youth development and education programme for young Bermudians, and won Sail Training Vessel of the Year after just 12 months in operation. Tied up to the pier in Dockyard, she is a beautiful yet unassuming vessel, but in full sail there are few that can match her speed. Sailing her is a serious job, requiring a deck full of hands, usually all under the age of 18, all heaving and ho-ing on the manual brass winches to keep her tight against the wind. The Captain can usually be found astern with an eye cast wearily over his charges, watching for any horseplay that might arise on deck. He has no tolerance for such behaviour. That is the first lesson the children learn. Discipline is paramount in sailing as in life, and that does not change onboard the Spirit.
Original Art and Working Artists at BACD By Elizabeth Jones Bermuda may be tiny but its interest in the Arts is extensive as the Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard (BACD) opposite the National Museum of Bermuda proves. Opened in 1984, the centre regularly shows exhibits of original artwork in different media created by local artists and based on a variety of themes. Artwork can range from experimental textile hangings, ceramics and sculptures to traditional Bermuda scenes in watercolour and oils. All can be packaged and shipped abroad. Locals love to attend exhibition openings which can happen as often as every six weeks. The Centre currently has five resident artists whose studios are open to the public. Jonah Jones is best known for his use of vibrant colours and light. His oils can depict both lively scenes of community—a regatta, for example—and unpeopled landscapes he has observed while travelling the island by bike. Bermudian Christopher Marson paints primarily in watercolour, and in his land and seascapes uses light to evoke Bermuda in all its moods. Chesley Trott is Bermuda’s most famous carver—his beautiful Bermuda cedar sculptures have huge sensory appeal but he also works in bronze and concrete. Summer Wood has a particular fascination for ocean related subjects and likes to experiment with mixed media. Christopher Grimes is also known for his
Bermuda-themed oil paintings but in addition is also a portrait and historical painter. Many of his paintings of places and ships capture Bermuda’s rural and maritime past. All the artists are happy to show their work and discuss their techniques and artistic approach to passing visitors. The Centre also has a retail store where prints by famous Bermudian artists such as Sharon Wilson, Graham Foster and Diana Amos, ceramics, Bermuda-themed photography, and a whole variety of souvenirs are sold. Of particular note are Lynn Morrell’s jewellery items designed and hand-made out of silver and Helle Pukk’s ceramics inspired by Bermuda. Note cards and calendars featuring the work of local artists are also very popular. Throughout the year the Centre also arranges workshops on a diverse range of subjects. For reasonable fees, participants can learn about watercolour painting, silkscreen printing, gilding and recycling materials to create pieces of art and drawing. The Centre is also the contact point for the Plein Aire group who welcome visitors to accompany them on painting expeditions all over the island. The group includes highly experienced artists who are willing to encourage and advise new members with little or no painting experience. The Plein Aire Group allows people the opportunity to appreciate Bermuda’s scenery through the medium of art.
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Casemates: A Harsh HIstory By W. C. Stevenson Casemates, the second oldest stone building in Dockyard after the Commissioner’s House, was originally built as barracks for the Royal Marines Light Infantry that were stationed at the Royal Naval Base for fear of retribution by the United States after the War of 1812. It was built during the late 1830s by large number of British convicts brought in from England. The convicts lived in extremely poor conditions in old and abandoned warships that were crudely modified for bare living, ironically unaware that the building would eventually be used as a prison. They were, essentially, constructing a keep for their own criminal descendants. The two storied building was designed to house 13 officers and 307 men from the marine defense complete with officers rooms, a mess, canteen and offices. The roof of the building with vaulted ceiling (called a casemated roof, hence the name Casemate Barracks) is eight feet thick, made of bricks and concrete so that it could withstand enemy bombings and cannon shots. The walls of the building are bomb proofed, using several feet thick of hard limestone rocks. In 1951 when the dockyard lost its significance as the Royal Naval base and the British navy left the island, the Building was left vacant until it was developed into Bermuda’s maximum security prison in 1961. It remained as the main prison for decades until 1995 when a new prison Westgate was built on Pender Road just outside the Dockyard. Since then the Casemates facility has been lying idle
Location and Contacts: National Museum, 1 The Keep, Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys. T: 441-234-1333
and vacant. In the recent times, an underground tunnel has been discovered right under the place where the prison’s visitor center used to be. It is strange that at the time of excavation work taking place during the building of the visitor’s center, no one noticed this 60-foot tunnel. The tunnel was used for transit during the days the
British Navy occupied the grounds. The entire dockyard area including the Casemates is under the administration of the West End Development Corporation of Bermuda (WEDCO). In 2009 the Bermuda Government transferred Casemates and its adjacent fortifications to the Bermuda Maritime Museum, creating the National Museum of Bermuda.
The building is currently under going restoration by the National Museum of Bermuda and teams of dedicated volunteers and should be open to the public in several years time. However, visitors can get a closer look by visiting the National Museum of Bermuda and walking over the North West Rampart. Special tours can be arranged through the Museum.
Building the Barracks
Photo courtesy of the National Museum of Bermuda
By W. C. Stevenson
Birdsey DockydTimes 2015_Layout 1 3/6/15 12:17 PM Page 1
Jo Birdsey Linberg The Birdsey Studio
5 STOWE HILL PAGET PG 05 BERMUDA TEL 441-236-6658/5845 E-MAIL linberg@northrock.bm HOURS 10:30am–1pm Monday–Friday
Appointments recommended
The Casemate Barracks draws its name from its vaulting, eight-feet thick cannon-proof walls and roofs, designed to protect the Royal Marine Light Infantry should the Americans, still prickly after the War of 1812, launch a siege on Bermuda. As it turned out, fears of an American attack on Bermuda—the reason why the Dockyard was fortified in the first place—were misplaced, and no attack was ever launched. In 1848, the Barracks became the home of the 42nd Highlanders, a famous Scottish unit known as the “Black Watch.” They were stationed in the barracks to guard the convicts building the Dockyard. Its yard is a flat, white wasteland created by the blasting away of its hard limestone, giving slaves, free men and jailbirds from England the raw material from which they labouriously shaped each and every rock that
made up the fortifications. The walls are several feet thick and made of specially-treated local limestone and needed no plastering to make them waterproof. All the buildings at the Casemates complex have the brickwork of the ‘eye brow’ roofing arches apparent on the facades, but at the barracks, it is hidden behind a course of hard Bermuda limestone, where false windows also mask the construction form of the roof. There was a veranda—that now needs restoration—on three sides of the building on the ground floor. The well that forms the roof built for musket fire has unparalleled views of the Dockyard to the northeast and the building, given its construction, was capable of being used as a fort. On either side of the Barracks was an ordnance yard, still with gunpowder storage buildings, or magazines.
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Gosling’s Limited:
The Oldest Business in Bermuda
T
he history of Gosling’s Black Seal Rum and the Gosling family began long ago. In the spring of 1806 James Gosling, the oldest son of William Gosling, a London wine and spirits merchant, set out from England on the ship, Mercury, with £10,000 of merchandise, bound for America. After 91 desperate days on a becalmed sea their charter ran out, and they put in at the nearest port, St. George’s, Bermuda. Rather than pressing on, James opened a shop on the King’s Parade, St. George’s in December 1806. James returned to England to be eventually replaced by his brother Ambrose who rented a shop on Front Street in the new capitol of Hamilton for £25 a year. The Gosling’s maintained a store at this location for the next 127 years. In 1857 the firm was renamed Gosling Brothers by Ambrose’s sons. Three years later the first oak barrels of rum distillate arrived in Bermuda. Several years later, after much trial and error, the distinctive Bermuda black rum destined to be Black Seal was formulated and offered for sale. They didn’t call it Black Seal at first. In fact, up until the First World War it was only sold from the barrel, and most folks brought in their own bottles for a “fill up”. Eventually the black rum was sold in champagne bottles, reclaimed from the British Army Officer’s Mess, and the corks sealed with black sealing wax. Pretty soon people began to ask for the “Black Seal”. Many years later the idea of the little, barrel juggling “Black Seal” was born. Over the years Black Seal has become synonymous with Bermuda. It is the essential additive to Bermuda fish chowder, adds the island touch to Bermuda Rum Swizzle, and is the tempest in Bermuda’s favourite cocktail — the Dark ‘n Stormy. A family business for over 200 years, Gosling’s is today the only company that blends and bottles in Bermuda, and is the largest exporter of a Bermuda-made product.
The Dark ’n Stormy The Dark ‘n Stormy had its origins in the Ginger Beer Factory run as a fundraiser for the Royal Naval Non-Commissioned Officer’s Club in the Dockyard. They soon discovered that a splash of local black rum was just what ginger beer was missing. The name originated when an old salt, holding aloft the thunderhead in a glass, observed that the drink was the “colour of a cloud only a fool or dead man would sail under.” Probably followed by: “Barman I’ll have
another—Dark ‘n Stormy.” This magical blend of Gosling’s Black Seal Rum and Ginger Beer is the National Drink of Bermuda and an internationally trademarked drink. Gosling’s is pleased to be the official rum and ginger beer of the 35th America’s Cup.
Bermuda Rum Swizzle The un-official national drink of Bermuda is the Rum Swizzle. Every Bermudian has their own secret ingredients, however Gosling’s Bermuda Rums make the sizzle in each Island Rum Swizzle. A Swizzle is loosely defined as a tall drink, usually rum with crushed ice in which a Swizzle Stick is rotated to aerate and chill the drink forming a layer of ice on the outside of the glass. Common secondary ingredients include lime juice, Angostura Bitters and Falernum. Falernum is a sweet syrup containing flavours of almond, ginger, cloves, allspice, vanilla and lime. Many modern swizzles use Grenadine, although Bermuda’s infamous Swizzle Inn Rum Swizzle still makes it according to their original recipe with Gosling’s Rum and Falernum. The Swizzle Inn Bermuda’s 18th Century Landmark Pub served its first Swizzle in 1932, and the rest they say is history.
Rum Ritual & Lore Rum has long been an integral part of social and religious rituals from voodoo to weddings. In Bermuda it is most often used for ship christenings and roof wettings. This ceremony involves very few elements: the roof of a new building, the owner and builder who created it and a bottle of Black Seal Rum. For a time Bermuda built the fastest ships on the water made of native cedar. Back in those ship-building days it was rum, not champagne, that was used to christen Bermuda’s finely crafted vessels. Builders of early homes in Bermuda were shipwrights first and foremost as evidenced in the use of many ship building techniques they employed. So why not treat a home like a sailing vessel? Christen a ship; christen a home. Why the roof? The roof is really the most important of a home in Bermuda. Besides being the “crown” of the structure, it is often the primary source of fresh water. Rain water is collected on the roof, and stored in a cistern under the house. In Bermuda, when a new building’s roof is declared watertight, from a small cottage to a
FROZEN YOGURT C
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BERMY BERRY
Third gazebo from the ferry terminal, directly across from The Keep. Live Light Bermuda!
big office building, a celebration is held. The owners, developers, and contractor scramble up onto the roof and a liberal dousing of Black Seal Rum is followed by many toastings, smiles and congratulations all round.
Bermuda Gold Liqueur Bermuda Gold is a liqueur in the old tradition of Bermuda. Originally produced by Somers Distillers in the Cooperage of the Royal Navel Dockyard, Bermuda Gold is now crafted by the Gosling family and just available locally. The liqueur is made from loquats, a common tree having its origins in Southeast China and its yellow fruit often referred to as the Chinese Plum. It did not take long for the locals to make liqueur from the fruit; loquat jam, chutney and pie are also local favourites. Bermuda Gold liqueur can be enjoyed on the rocks, as a sweetener in coffee, with a splash of orange juice, or drizzled over ice cream and fresh fruit. Some locals even add it to Rum Swizzle.
Bermuda Rum Swizzle Recipe Serves 6
Into a pitcher 1/3 full of crushed ice add: • 4 oz of Gosling’s BLACK SEAL Rum • 4 oz of Gosling’s GOLD Rum • Juice of two limes and two lemons, or 1 oz of concentrated Juice • 5 oz of pineapple juice • 5 oz of orange juice • 1/2 oz of Grenadine or 2 oz Falernum • 6 dashes of Angostura Bitters Churn vigorously with Swizzle Stick until froth appears and strain into Cordial glasses.
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Eat, Drink & Be Merry Bonefish Bar & Grill
Delicious meals, tasty treats and traditional Bermudian dishes can be found at the Royal Naval Dockyard. When hunger strikes you won’t be hard up to find a great restaurant or café with dishes to tickle your taste buds. And when 5 o’clock rolls around, be sure to head to Hammerheads at Snorkel Park for a glass of “Shark Oil”, their specialty cocktail which has been known to be as dangerous as the reef fish itself. Bonefish Dockyard’s newest dining experience is at Bonefish Bar & Grill. With an exquisite view of Bermuda’s breezy Great Sound, an awardwinning, top-rated chef at the helm, plenty of fresh fish and top-grade meats, how can you go wrong? Bonefish offers locals and tourists alike a reasonably priced menu with seafood, homemade pastas, a great wine list, draft beer and desserts to die for. Open seven days a week, come to enjoy our daily entertainment or to have a magical cocktail at our
Dine on the Green
441 232 0100 | Port Royal Golf Course, Southampton
A Taste of Land & Sea
441 234 5151 | Royal Naval Dockyard \ bonefish.bm
Italian Culture & Cuisine 441 234 5009 | Royal Naval Dockyard \ amici.bm
new boner bar! All are welcome at the newest, happening place to eat in Dockyard!
Cafe Amici Located in the West End, Café Amici is an Italian family style restaurant in the heart of historic Dockyard. It is a place for friends and family to gather and enjoy the spirit of Italian culture and cuisine— enjoying laughter, exceptional food and each other. Executive Chef and owner, Livio Ferigo, has created a menu with many of his favourite childhood dishes that he
Snorkel Park Snorkel Park Beach offers regular evening entertainment that is not to be missed. Join them for one of their Sunset Bonfires on the Beach complete with S’mores and specialty cocktails, this unique family friendly local experience in relaxed and accompanied by a DJ playing relaxed music in the background and occasionally live performances by local bands. Bonfires are on every Sunday, Mon-
enjoyed while growing up in Italy. Café Amici offers a friendly intimate atmosphere with its casual attire and simple, uncomplicated and affordable Italian cuisine. Visit them for full Italian fare and don’t forget about their Bermuda codfish and potato breakfast every Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Located on the corner of the Clocktower Mall, they look forward to serving you. Open seven days a week. Serving breakfast 9:00 a.m. to 11:00 a.m. and lunch to 5:30
Limbo Dancers at Snorkel Park day, Wednesday and Thursday. Try to catch their live music on the beach during the day at Sundays Live from 2:00 p.m. every Sunday, where the islands top bands get the crowd dancing and having fun with conga lines and limbo contests this is a free event and also family friendly. T: 441 234-3100, E: Info@snorkelparkbeach.com, W: www.snorkelparkbeach.com
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dockyardtimes.com p.m. Open for dinner 6:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. Call 234-5009 to enjoy your Italian dining experience. Café Amici—where friends and family come together! Buon Appetito!
The Frog & Onion Pub The Frog & Onion is a unique and one of a kind authentic restaurant housed in the mid 1800 “Cooperage” building in the Royal Naval Dockyard, a five-minute leisurely walk from King’s & Heritage Wharfs and the Ferry Dock. The menu features a selection of traditional style pub food, along with some great local dishes, cooked expertly by extraordinary chefs. The Frog is also home to the Dockyard Brewing Company, Bermuda’s only brewery. Visit the Beer Sample Shack where you can sample their five brews and then have a “Proper English Pint”. While there visit the Ballast Logo Gift Shop. There’s lots to see so leave plenty of time for your visit. The shop is also open for your late night shopping. All their local Island entertainers are back for another great season. So drop by and hang out at Happy Hour and enjoy all the great island sounds. T: 441-234-2900, E: frog@ irg.bm, W: www.frogandonion.bm
Freeport Seafood Restaurant Located just inside the Dockyard gates, Freeport Seafood offers local cuisine, fresh seafood, pizza, pasta, steaks, curry dishes, pizza,
burgers, steaks and Bermuda fish chowder. Other specialties include frozen fruity drinks and Cuban cigars which you can enjoy while using the internet on the premises. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. T: 441-234-1692, E: freeport@northrock.bm, W: www. freeportseafood.com
NANNINI’S ICE CREAM PARLOUR I scream, you scream! Treat yourself to a variety of delights including Häagen-Dazs ice cream, sorbets and frozen yogurt in a cone, sundae or a milkshake at Nannini’s Ice Cream Parlour. They also serve fresh-brewed cappuccino and espresso, biscotti and other Italian specialties. Located in the Clocktower Mall. Open seven days a week. T: 441-234-2474
The Dockyard Pastry Shop With everything freshly baked and brewed, The Dockyard Pastry Shop is way beyond “coffee and a doughnut.” Located just yards from the cruise-ship terminal, The Dockyard Pastry Shop has become a favourite among tourists and locals alike. Choose a sandwich from their lunch menu, snack on their popular almond cookies or sip an iced coffee in the heat of the summer—each item on their menu is delicious and most are made to order. As an added bonus, The Dockyard Pastry Shop serve fresh gluten-free cakes each day!
Pier 41 Marina and Dockshop Whether you are visiting by
land or sea, The Dockshop is the one stop shop for all your cravings! Pick up a bottle of world famous Goslings Rum, chill out in their huge hammock with a Cuban cigar, log on to their complimentary WiFi and enjoy an al fresco beverage. They carry a variety of snacks, hot food, drinks, cold beer, liquor, sundries, marine items, fishing gear, ice, international calling cards and so much more. You need it? They have it! Open 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily. Pier 41 Freeport Drive, T: 441 238-4141, E: Dockshop@pier41.bm, W: www. pier41.bm
Club Aqua The beautiful beach side setting of Hammerheads at Snorkel Park Beach transforms into Bermuda’s hottest nightclub open from 10:00 p.m. until 3:00 a.m. every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday. With Bermuda’s hottest DJ’s and video DJ’s this club is not to be missed. Enjoy a full menu of specialty cocktails, take a break from dancing and dip your feet in the ocean, or energise with food from the late night menu. Snorkel Park Beach is the place to be and be seen. Try to join Club Aqua for one of their famous Full Moon, Wet-n-Wild or Foam parties. You will always enjoy a great time. Check their website for event dates. T: 441-234-3100, E: info@ snorkelparkbeach.com, W: www.snorkelparkbeach.com
Bermuda Fudge Company The Bermuda Fudge Company is a part of a large family
A Guide to the Local Brews The Dockyard Brewing Company at the Frog & Onion Pub brews up Bermuda’s very own beer and is the only on-site brewing company on the island. Visitors are welcome to experience the frosty taste of the five different home-made brews:
A Whale of a Wheat This is a light and refreshing ale and prepared using wheat and barley malt. It’s brewed using German hops and served with lemon slice.
St David’s Light
This light straw-coloured beer goes well with light meals. It’s brewed with European hops and has a dry finish.
Trunk Island Pale Ale
This beer is also known as IPA and has a sharp bitter finish.
Somer’s Amber Ale
This is one of our favourites from the Dockyard Brewery. This copper-coloured beer is named after Bermuda’s founder Sir George Somers. It tastes like a traditional English Bitter. Goes well with meat and other pub food.
Black Anchor Porter
This is a rich dark ale and a classic London Porter. It’s a full bodied and medium hopped beer, and goes well with meats and other pub fares.
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BermyBerry Come and have your taste buds tantalized by Bermuda’s delicious taste experience, BermyBerry frozen yogurt. BermyBerry offers freshly made, healthy and delicious frozen yogurt with all your favourite toppings. Their motto is, “Live Light” and this philosophy is part of the BermyBerry experience—from fresh wholesome ingredients locally sourced wherever possible, to their biodegradable cups and spoons! Their frozen yogurt is made from fresh skim milk and fresh 0% fat Greek yogurt culture for a guilt-free, low calorie, refreshing treat. Four flavours of frozen yogurt are served up daily and include their mouth-watering signature “BermyBerry” blend. Other flavours include mango, kiwi, strawberry and blueberry and sinful flavours such as chocolate, Nutella, peanut butter and key lime history in Dockyard reaching back four generations. Taking pride in their Bermudian heritage, the Bermuda Fudge Company offers all that is
pie. The flavours change weekly so you can try a new taste sensation with every visit. BermyBerry frozen yogurt is delicious on its own and unbeatable when paired with the variety of fresh toppings on offer. From fresh fruit and a variety of nuts to wholesome granola, sprinkles gummy bears and M&M’s in our BermyBerry signature colours, the taste combinations are virtually endless. Look for their distinctive flagship location in Dockyard overlooking the water opposite the entrance to The Keep or visit their new location in Hamilton on Burnaby Street (corner of Reid Street). They also brew fairtrade, organic coffee, hot or on ice. Enjoy a cup whilst you access their free Wifi. Whether in Dockyard or in Hamilton, BermyBerry is the place to be!
flavourful about the island through their delicious fudge from their store in the Clocktower Mall. Handmade with butter and cream in Bermuda,
by Bermudians, you can find a delicious variety of fudge as well as a number of other treats such as cookies and coconut cakes.
Go & Do
Explore 500 years of local history and culture at the National Museum of Bermuda.
Dockyard is bursting at the seams with interesting things to do. The numerous historical sites, art galleries, and fun beach-side activities are enough to make a trip to Dockyard worthwhile and unforgettable. Sundays in Dockyard
Every Sunday there will be a series of events planned around the Clocktower Mall. * Interactive Puppet Show—On Sundays from 2pm to 6pm while ships are in port, Den & Ken will perform a FREE family show inside the Clocktower Mall. Bermy Kids handmade puppets will be available for sale. Funcastles—Outside on the main lawn will be a selection of fun castles for the children to enjoy from 1pm to 5pm or later. An all day pass ensures they can jump until they’re content! Sunday Shopping Spree—Spend $25 in the Clocktower Mall to be eligible (with proof of purchase) to enter a raffle draw for a prize valued at $50. Free Treats—Spend $25 in the Clocktower Mall and receive a FREE cotton candy, popcorn or snowball (in season) from the vendor on the North Lawn (with proof of purchase). *Schedule subject to change
Take a free walking tour around the historical walls of the Dockyard.
Historical ReEnactment & Walking Tour Royal Naval Dockyard’s FREE Historical Re-enactment & Walking Tour is Making History Happen! Come and watch this hysterical and educational re-enactment depicting life in the Royal Naval Dockyard around the year 1809. Our actors (fully dressed in period costume) will transport you to another time, as you take in this enlightening re-enactment suitable for all ages. Learn about historical aspects of breakwaters, fortifications, storehouses, workshops, barracks and much more as you stand in the historic and beautiful Victualing Yard! After taking in the Reenactment continue the experience with a Walking Tour, lead by a super knowledgable guide—also dressed in period costume. During this tour you
will visit some of the most interesting places described in the Re-enactment—putting an image to the story! As you walk amid the historic walls of the Dockyard, you will be able to truly experience what life must have been like for those who walked those same paths so long ago, while seeing what modern Dockyard has to offer. This Historical Re-enactment & Walking Tour is offered four times a week from May 5th - October 2nd, Tuesday-Friday. Re-enactment starts in the Victualing Yard at 9:30am and finishes at 9:50am directly followed by the Walking Tour from 9:5010:30am.
Bermuda Clayworks Bermuda Clayworks is one of the primary cultural attractions at the Royal Naval Dockyard, with its onsite
working studios and year round Ceramics Gallery. There are three full time independent studio artists and with the addition of work by other local ceramicists, the gallery offers a broad and diverse selection of professional level Bermuda made collectables. Bermuda Clayworks is best known for its popular hand-made customized house plaques but carries on its tradition of functional tableware in vivid colours with new designs introduced annually. The selection of pottery available ranges from Bermuda themed tableware in The Loft Gallery to the exquisite contemporary salt-glazed ceramics in The Jon Faulkner Gallery, while the Main Gallery features the Bermuda Clayworks’ designs along with studio pottery, ceramic jewellery and wall hangings by the various artists. International shipping is available. Open year round except Good Friday and Christmas Day. T: 441 234 5116, E: clayworks@outlook.com, W:
www.bermudaclayworks.com
Snorkel Park Beach Snorkel Park Beach is conveniently located in the Royal Naval Dockyard, just a few minutes’ walk from the cruise ship ports. This hidden cove is nestled under the historic walls of the Bermuda Maritime Museum, now the
National Museum of Bermuda, and provides easy access to a beautiful beach with excellent snorkelling and full amenities. You will find on offer a full array of amenities and watersports, including snorkel gear, kayaks, pedal boats, jet skis, snuba tours, power snorkelling, volleyball, chaise lounges, cabanas and day beds, not to mention the Hammerheads Bar and Grill, for that scenic beachside lunch or dinner, or for just relaxing on the beach with a specialty cocktail. Snorkel Park Beach is also well known for its regular live entertainment both day and night. Catch one of their live local acts, every Sunday afternoon SPB will host one of the islands top Bands, offering a fun filled afternoon of dancing Limbo conga and more, great fun for the whole family, or relax on the beach during one of their evening Sunset Bonfires, complete with S’mores and a DJ in the background completing the ambiance. There is a small charge of $5 weekdays, $10 weekends to enter. The fees are used to
Play volleyball at Snorkel Park Beach
maintain the facility, with a part of the proceeds going to local marine conservation. T: 441-234-6989, E: Info@ snorkelparkbeach.com, W: www.snorkelparkbeach.com
The Neptune Cinema Catch a movie at The Neptune Cinema, located in the historic Cooperage building opposite the National Museum of Bermuda, next to the Bermuda Craft Market. Check their website at www. dockyardtimes.com for current showings. T: 441-292-7296, W: www. libertytheatre.bm/neptune. aspx
DOCKYARD GLASSWORKS Feel the heat and admire the artistry at Dockyard Glassworks where you can watch artisans create exquisite handmade glass sculptures and functional art. The studio employs experienced glass artists from Bermuda and from around the world who produce hot furnace glass, flameworked glass, fused glass
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jewellery and glass beads. They will introduce you to the large black furnace holding 550 lbs. of clear liquid glass, hot and molten at 2074 degrees Fahrenheit, the furnace stays on for a 24/7 operation. Glass is batched from a European Cullet Batch at 2156 degrees F, which is then pulled from the furnace as needed on four-foot-long hollow tube blowing irons or a solid “punty” rod. Dockyard Glassworks offers comfy chairs, coffee and English tea for visitors to relax and watch free demonstrations of Italian-styled Hot Pulled Sculptural Glass and Classic
Blown Glass. The team of lamp artists in the flameworking department sit patiently creating with gemstone small rods, small collectible replicas of things you find in Bermuda, such as whistling tree frogs, little lizards, honeymoon hogs and Bermuda Longtail birds. Afterwards you can enjoy a taste of the Islands at The Cakery next door. Hours: 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. daily; 8:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. when cruise ships are in port. T: 441-234-4216, E: mail@dockglass.com, W: www.dockglass.com
The National Museum of Bermuda Explore 500 years of local history and culture at the National Museum of Bermuda housed in the 19th century military buildings of the expansive Keep citadel, including the award winning restored Commissioner’s House. Find out about Bermuda’s cultural ties to the Azores and the West Indies, local shipwrecks and their artefacts, slavery in Bermuda and Bermuda’s defence history. Don’t miss gazing at the impressive 1,000 square foot
Swim with the dolphins at Dolphin Quest located in the National Museum of Bermuda.
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mural, spanning two storeys and depicting five centuries of Bermuda history by local artist Graham Foster. Bastions, cannon, resident sheep, maritime art, locally built watercrafts, spectacular sea views and dolphin encounters are also all found in Bermuda’s largest fort! Open daily 9:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (last admission 4:00 p.m.). Adults $15, seniors $12 and children under 16 FREE. Located at the Royal Naval Dockyard. T: 441-234-1418, E: info@ nmb.bm, W: www.nmb.bm Photographs by Gavin Howarth
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The Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard The Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard is a working art gallery with five resident artists who enjoy working on their art and interacting with visitors. The Gallery hosts group shows every four weeks so there is always new material and new art to peruse. As well as offering the largest selection of Bermuda prints available for purchase, the gallery also sells Bermuda-made jewellery, textiles, painted glass, ceramics, ornaments, cedar crafts and much more. The Arts Centre prides itself on carrying only items made in Bermuda! Open every day from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Wheel Chair Accessible. T: 441-234-
Watch the glassblowers in action at the Dockyard Glassworks studio.
2809, E: artcentre@ibl.bm, W: www.artbermuda.bm
Bermuda Fun Golf Situated on an acre of oceanfront property, Bermuda Fun Golf features 18 challenging holes designed after famous holes in USA, Scotland and Bermuda. Special features include the Sunset Terrace, affording incredible views of Bermuda’s magnificent sunsets and Caddyshack,
their fully licensed bar, great for a casual beverage! When the sun sets, enjoy their ‘GLOW IN THE DARK’ night golf! Fun Golf is the perfect venue for the seasoned golfer and the family alike. Come join them and ‘ putt a round!’ Open 7 days a week, located right next to Snorkel Park through the archway, 10am - 10pm. T: 441-4007888, E: office@fungolf.bm, W: www.fungolf.bm
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Get Wet & Wild!
Dockyard is the gateway to all the best watersports available on the island! Located at the Western tip of the island, Dockyard is at the centre of the Bermuda platform—an area of almost 300 square miles of shallow water filled with vibrant coral reefs, shipwrecks, out islands and beaches which makes it the ideal jumping off point for exploring Bermuda by water. Pier 41 Marina’s Dockyard Watersports Centre is located adjacent to the bus and ferry stop and within walking distance of the cruise terminals. Here you will find the widest variety of tours, watersports and charter options from the island’s top tour operators. Choose from relaxing sunset cruises, thrilling jet-ski and high-speed boat tours, exciting snorkeling and scuba diving adventures, boat rentals and yacht charters and so much more!
At the DOCKYARD WATERSPORTS CENTRE you will find: FANTASEA DIVING & WATERSPORTS
export, Goslings Rum.
Dockyard’s only PADI diving centre. T: 441-236-DIVE (3483), E: info@fantasea. bm, W: www.fantasea.bm
BOAT RENTALS & CHARTERS
SCUBA DIVING For certified divers they offer a Daily 2 Tank Wreck and Reef Dive. Their 40’ custom dive boat will get you to some of Bermuda’s most renowned sites quickly and comfortably. Site depths range from 30’ to 60’ on average allowing for extended bottom times and plenty of time to explore our famous wrecks and pristine coral reef. You will be thoroughly briefed by our PADI professionals and given a fully guided tour of each site, so you can dive in safety and comfort.
ECO-TOURS & CRUISES Fantasea is your premier source for snorkel trips, eco tours, boat charters and equipment rentals. Learn about the island’s unique ecosystem and history on a guided kayak, hike or bike tour, or unwind on the island’s only legendary Goslings Sunset Rum Cruise, where you will explore local history and culture while sampling Bermuda’s largest and most famous
For the ultimate Bermuda experience why not charter your own boat? Fantasea’s self-drive pontoon boats are the perfect way to explore the nearby secluded islands and beaches. These new, top-of the line, 23’ Beachcat pontoon boats fit up to 10 passengers and are fully equipped with everything you need for a safe and fun day out on the water—including a marine head, stereo system with iPod connection, cooler with ice, a full tank of gas and safety and emergency equipment. They can even provide you with a knowledgeable guide and captain! Delivery is available and maps are provided. Need more space? Their fully-crewed 40’ and 60’ party catamarans are ideal for private group excursions. Your charter can also be customized with great food and beverage options, or a watersports package for some extra fun in the sun.
Dockyard Watersports Centre and 8 King’s Square, St. George’s (located at the White Horse Pub & Restaurant). T: 441-238-4155 (Dockyard), T: 441-297-4155 (St. Georges), E: info@watersportsbermuda.com, W: www.kswatersports.com
muda’s beautiful pink sandy beaches, secluded reefs, historic forts, or the Great Sound area. Step aboard the “Thrill Seeker”, a powerful winch-boat which allows you to take off and land without getting wet, unless of course you request a ‘dip’.
JET SKI TOURS
WILDCAT
This exciting Jet Ski adventure and scenic ride will take you skimming across Bermuda’s glistening turquoise waters and weaving through coral formations and the sea gardens. You will explore several coves and inlets located around the western and eastern sides of Bermuda and you ll be able to feed fish at the wreck of the H.M.S Vixen or explore the oldest Forts in Bermuda. The tour will stop at a secluded pink sandy beach area for a swim. Inquire for packages and prices.
This high-speed sightseeing adventure takes place aboard the WildCat. Departing from Dockyard, the WildCat is the only tour boat offering a complete tour around the entire island. As you explore the island you’ll get a view of Bermuda’s scenic coastline complete with an entertaining narrated tour of the island’s historical sites and other points of interest.
KS WaterSports
PARASAILING ADVENTURE
KS Watersports’s Jet Ski, Parasailing and WildCat Adventures offer unique and fun experiences suitable for persons of all ages and skill levels.
Experience the high-flying thrill, panoramic views and pure excitement of parasailing. This adventure will take you over some of Ber-
CAPTAIN KIRK’S CORAL REEF ADVENTURES Whether you want to catch the fish yourself or just peer at them from a glass bottom boat, Captain Kirk has the adventure for you! T: 441-236-1300, E: info@islandtourcentre. com, W: www.islandtourcentre.com
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FISHING Join their friendly captain for fishing and fun aboard the Jolly Roger where in-shore trips provide approximately three hours fishing time. Light spinning tackle and bait are included.
GLASS BOTTOM BOAT & SIGHTSEEING CRUISE Cruise the harbour, view coral reefs and other assorted marine life, and marvel at the wreck of the HMS ‘Vixen’ through the large glass bottom panels.
BERMUDA TRIANGLE NIGHT GLASS BOTTOM BOAT CRUISE Grab a complimentary Rum Swizzle cocktail as you board this night time cruise and head into the notorious Bermuda Triangle. With the stars shining brightly overhead, watch coral and fish appear when the ocean floor is flooded with brilliant beams of light!
CATAMARAN SAIL & SNORKEL, SUNSET SAIL Take a catamaran sail and enjoy snorkeling in the blue oasis of Bermuda’s ocean.
SIGHTSEEING & SNORKEL TOUR Learn why Bermuda has been voted the ‘Shipwreck Capital of the Atlantic’. Snorkel over Bermuda’s most valuable treasure, our vibrant coral reef, as you see some of our most historic shipwrecks. Or wade ashore when the boat anchors in just 3ft of water, and you may snorkel the shoreline, and play in the shallow protected waters.
WINSOME TOURS Touring Bermuda from the water is a must during your visit. See the homes of the rich and famous, tour the must-visit Bermuda Aquarium and Zoo with a guide and swim at a favorite local secret swimming spot. T: 441-236-1300, E: info@islandtourcentre. com, W: www.islandtourcentre.com
FAMOUS HOMES & HIDEAWAYS CRUISE We will point out the homes of the rich and famous while you discover tranquil island hideaways only accessible by boat. This sightseeing cruise will give you historical facts and humourous personal stories about the island.
AQUARIUM SIGHTSEEING CRUISE This is a fun boat tour for the whole family
will take you to Bermuda’s most visited attraction the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo where you can spend 1 1/2 hours independently or with a crew member who will guide you through the attractions.
MINI FAMOUS HOMES & SWIM TOUR After a beautiful sightseeing tour of Hamilton Harbour you will be transported to Paradise Lakes where you can swim and enjoy this gorgeous, well-kept secret of the locals.
Rising Son II Catamaran T: 441-236-1300, E: info@islandtourcentre. com, W: www.islandtourcentre.com
SAIL & BEACH SNORKEL Jump aboard Bermuda’s largest sailing catamaran the Rising Son II, for a fun and relaxing sailing experience. Cool out in the roomy shaded cockpit, lounge on one of the huge trampolines, or soak up the rays on the upper level. On the award-winning half-day sail and beach snorkel excursion, you will cruise and sail throughout the Great Sound for an hour before anchoring at a beautiful and secluded swim site to kayak, try a SUP (paddle board) or snorkel on a nearby reef. After playtime, you’ll be welcomed back aboard for a complimentary Rum Swizzle.
SAIL INTO THE SUNSET The friendly crew will welcome you aboard with a complimentary glass of Champagne or Rum Cocktail for an evening sail. And as the sun sinks into the bay, music will play and you can enjoy the twilight views with that special somebody.
PRIVATE CHARTERS
SIGHTSEEING, ECO & ADVENTURE TOURS DIVE TOURS & LESSONS SNORKEL TOURS, JET SKI TOURS & PARASAILING GLASSBOTTOM CRUISES & FISHING TRIPS CATAMARAN SAILING & SUNSET CRUISES BIKING, KAYAKING, HIKING, HORSE TRAIL RIDES AND GOLF BOAT RENTALS & YACHT CHARTERS
If you are looking for the ultimate experience try a half-day boat rental or yacht charter. There are smaller self-drive and captained boats perfect for more intimate settings and a great way for families or couples to enjoy a day on the water. Larger boats that offer full catering and are equipped with a full bars, stereo systems, lights and dance floor can also be booked. For groups of eight or less, Under the Sea is a 31’ Tiara that offers an intimate experience taking you around the island to shipwreck sites, to snorkel or just relax on a noodle at secluded beaches only accessible by boat. Larger groups up to 40 can book the Excellence for private parties and events where their local captain and crew can take you to the best snorkeling sites and most private beaches on the island.
R OYA L N AVA L D O C K YA R D
BOOK IT ALL with Island Tour centre! T: 441-236-1300, E: info@islandtourcentre.com, W: www.islandtourcentre.com Reservations for all activities at the Dockyard Watersports Centre and more are available through central booking agency Island Tour Centre, Bermuda’s No. 1 provider of recreational sightseeing tours, activities, and charters offering countless options, easy online reservations and conveniently located booking offices. Island Tour Centre is owned and operated by experienced local tour professionals, ensuring up to date knowledge on all of the best places to go as well as things to see and do in Bermuda. Choose from unbeatable diving and snorkeling opportunities, award winning eco and adventure tours, leisurely sightseeing excursions, heart racing thrill rides, and boat cruises to suit every taste imaginable. If you would prefer to explore on your own, their knowledgeable and friendly staff can assist you with boat, bike, and water sport rentals, as well as golf and spa packages. If you have a group or are looking for a more exclusive experience, they offer the largest range of charter options available—everything from luxury yacht charters to party bus pub crawls, they have it all! For more information visit the website, call or drop by the booking offices located at both the Dockyard Watersports Centre and the Hamilton Ferry Stop.
Shop
The clocktower mall features a wide variety of vendors—from clothing to jewellery, artwork, souvenirs and more!
Shopping at the Royal Naval Dockyard has become a cultural experience in recent years. Emerging from basic souvenir shops, stores selling a variety of items from around the world have become popular in the Clocktower Mall. But if tokens of Bermuda are what you’re really after, fear not, they’re never far from reach—in fact, most stores sell their own version of a Bermuda souvenir!
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tep into the Clocktower Mall and you feel as if you’re stepping back in time. It’s easy to appreciate the vast limestone walls and lofted ceilings of this Great Eastern Storehouse, stacked and chiselled by convicts many years ago. Outside, enormous panelled windows overlook the wharf and the Great Sound beyond. The building also features two 100-foot towers, one of which displays the time of day while the other marks the
The Bermuda Shop by Carole Holding Shopping for Bermudamade souvenirs has never been so easy, thanks to Carole Holding’s The Bermuda Shop,
changing of the tides. Originally built in 1856 as a depository for the British Royal Navy, the modern day Clocktower Mall offers a unique selection of Bermudian gift shops and boutiques. This one-of-akind, 24,000-square-foot shopping plaza is best known for its eclectic variety of wares, from perfume and jewellery to island clothing and handcrafted cedar boxes. Enjoy a relaxed browsing experience with friendly vendors and welcoming staff. Peruse at
a gift store offering unique and affordable Bermudian treasures. Whether you’re looking for Bermuda honey, embroidered linens, note cards, or jewellery, one visit to
The Bermuda Shop is all you need to pick up gifts for your loved ones at home. Editor’s picks: Carole Holding’s beautifully packaged Bermuda flower soaps including Oleander, Jasmine and Passion Flower.
Calypso
Bermuda-made souvenirs at The Bermuda Shop
With an impressive 66year legacy, the Calypso group of stores has long been an icon for fashion-forward Bermudian women. Offering brands such as Longchamp, Ralph Lauren, Trina Turk, Michael Kors and more, the Dockyard branch of this popular boutique is one of four island-wide and is without a doubt where the
your leisure and discover something new or find that perfect souvenir to take back home. If you’re worn out from shopping and looking for a place to eat, Cafe Amici on the corner of the Clocktower Mall offers a casual dining experience at an affordable price. Outside seating provides the perfect opportunity to appreciate a family style Italian meal with a view of historic Dockyard. Or if you’re looking for a quick snack, the Nannini Haagen-Dazs Ice Cream Parlour
most fashion-savvy shop. T: 441-295-2112 ext. 416, W: www.calypso.bm.
Handmade Bermuda Hand Made (Bermuda) Ltd is the arts and crafts store for Bermuda made goods. They carry the work of more than 50 Bermuda artists with beautiful and unique creations unavailable anywhere else in the world. With a wide range including clothing, sea glass and other jewellery, natural cosmetic goods, art work, music, books, ornaments, Bermuda cedar and much more, it’s the idea place to find genuine Bermudian treasures. They also stock a wide range of beads and craft supplies. Find them in the Clock-
inside the Mall is the best place for a cool treat to beat the heat. Whatever your vacation plans include, don’t forget to stop by the Clocktower Mall as you tour the island on your moped. The whole family is sure to enjoy an exciting shopping experience in this beautiful Bermudian historic building. The Clocktower Mall is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. For more information and a complete mall directory visit www.thewestend.bm/category/shopping/clocktower-mall/.
tower Mall, tel 441-232-0862, email handmadebermuda@ icloud.com or like them on Facebook www.facebook.com/ handmadebermudaltd.
The Bermuda Triangle Shop For an eclectic mix of souvenirs and Bermuda-inspired treasures, The Bermuda Triangle Shop is the best. Overflowing with colourful ornaments, attractive souvenir T-shirts and summer garments, it’s obvious why this little store is so popular, making it a must stop on your list of places to visit. T: 441234-0837.
Crisson Jewellers Bursting at the seams with Old-World charm and sophistication is Crisson Jewellers, a
Bermudian jewellery company with a 90-year history. As a favourite place among visitors to purchase a piece of Bermuda-inspired jewellery, Crisson’s offers a wide range of necklaces, rings, earrings, charms and cufflinks, all with unique styles and designs that can only be found in Bermuda. T: 441-295-2351, W: www.crisson.com.
Davison’s of Bermuda Davison’s of Bermuda is without a doubt the best place to shop for souvenir T-shirts. Quality design, hilarious logos and affordable prices have made the family-run business a popular pit stop for tourists of all ages at prices starting as low as $7.95. And if you’re looking for something a little
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classier than a T-shirt, they offer classic polos, jackets and pull-overs, as well. T: 441234-0959.
Enchanted Grand Bazaar Elegant Bermuda motif home décor and accessories such as fashionable cushion covers and fabric totes and beautiful hanging lanterns in an assortment of bold colours are in abundance, as are silk shawls, rugs and ceramic items, all at respectable prices. T: 441-234-4646, W: www. grandbazaarbda.com.
Lisa-Anne Rego Gallery Bermudian artist Lisa-Anne Rego is an expert at painting Bermudian scenes. School children at play, architectural scenes and calm water landscapes are her speciality and she invites you into her gallery in the Clocktower Mall. View her artwork and perhaps pur-
chase a piece to take home. T: 441-238-1407, W: www. lisarego.bm.
Orchid Step out of the ordinary and into something elegant, colourful and East Indianinspired with the help of Orchid, a women’s clothing store in the Clocktower Mall. Beautiful beaded slippers, ornate hair accessories and dresses made from 100 per cent silk are available at affordable prices. T: 441-234-0285.
Dockyard Linen & Gifts With an abundance of elegant tea towels, table runners, place mats and a wide assortment of souvenir gift items, Dockyard Linen & Gifts is the perfect place to pick up a gift for your mother-in-law or grandmother. Practical and affordable, whatever you decide on at Dockyard Linen & Gifts is sure to make you both
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happy. T: 441-234-0341.
Island Outfitters Island Outfitters is a funpacked store offering everything you need for the best Bermuda vacation ever. Conveniently located across the road from the Dockyard Ferry stop, in one of Dockyard’s oldest buildings, Island Outfitters is a shopping adventure like no other. Find the best selection and prices on Bermuda products, hand-made jewelry, unique t-shirt and hat designs, beachwear and accessories, sightseeing tours, gear rentals, WIFI services and so much more. Island Outfitters exclusively carries a hand picked selection of pink sand jewelry by local jeweller Jacqueline Lohan. For over 20 years Lohan has produced island designs using gemstones, cultured pearls, sea glass and Bermuda’s famous pink sand. This exclusive shop is the one location where you can shop, snack, surf the web, book island activities, and order your DUTY-FREE rum for the trip home. The friendly staff is on hand to assist you with local knowledge on where to go and what to do. So, grab a towel and bathing suit, fill up your cooler, and pick up a snorkel and Island Outfitters carries a beautiful selection of Bermuda Sand Jewelry by local artist Jacqueline Lohan as well as all the t-shirts, beachwear, hats and gear you need!
AS Cooper & Sons Over a century old, A.S. Cooper & Sons, Ltd. has been the place to go for housewares, clothing and accessories for generations. In addition to the finest crystal, china, fashion and fragrances, A.S. Cooper’s has a broadrange of Bermuda-made gifts at duty-free prices. Books, cutting boards with matching tea towels, ornaments and delicious treats—
boogie board—Island Outfitters is your one-stop-shop for island adventure. Editor’s pick: Colourful canvas totes in various sizes and shapes.
The Littlest Drawbridge
you’ll find the perfect piece of the rock to take home with you at the Dockyard branch of A.S. Cooper’s. T: 441-234-4156, E: www. ascooper.bm. Editor’s pick: Picturesque photographic art images of Bermuda by Roland Skinner including books, postcards and posters.
easy and enjoyable at Fair Trade Bermuda. With unbeatable prices and interesting finds, you’ll find something for everyone on your shopping list without breaking the bank. T: 441-232-7781.
ER Aubrey
Bermuda cedar is the theme at The Littlest Drawbridge Gift Shop. Bowls, boxes, pens and sachets are all available at affordable prices, in addition to local foods, tote bags and Cuban cigars. For truly Bermudian souvenirs, The Littlest Drawbridge Gift Shop is the ultimate one-stop shop. T: 441-234-6214.
Perfume Shop Smell your sweetest with fragrances from The Perfume Shop in the Clocktower Mall. Exclusive world-renowned fragrances and Bermudian scents coexist in the little shop, resulting in the best selection of perfume the world over. T: 441-295-0022, W: www.gibbons.bm.
Fair Trade Bermuda Shopping for unique art, clothing and accessories is
In business since 1954,
E.R. Aubrey has long been the go-to place for Bermudians on the hunt for affordable prices. With a large selection of coloured stones and fine jewelry, it has become a popular place for visitors to pick up a piece of the rock, too. On the top of everyone’s wish-list is the Bermuda Lucky Stone, a fusion of
Handmade Jewelry Local Products Original Hats & T-shirts Handmade Children’s Clothing Souvenirs Snorkel Gear & Beach Wear Island Tours Duty-Free Liquor WiFi
Located in the heart of Dockyard - across from the ferry stop
Take home the beauty of Bermuda at A.S. Cooper Dockyard
Take home the beauty of Bermuda with prints, books or gifts featuring the iconic Bermuda images of veteran photographer Roland Skinner. Archival quality prints in various sizes can be purchased at the Picturesque Bermuda Mini Gallery, A.S. Cooper Dockyard, Clocktower Mall. Picturesque Gallery
T: 441.234.4156 E: picturesque@ascooper.bm
facebook.com/picturesquebermuda
twitter.com/picturesquebda
www.picturesquebermuda.com
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Souvenirs We Love! Dockyard abounds with terrific Bermuda souvenirs. Here are some favourites! Glass-blown ornaments from Dockyard Glassworks.
Fine Cuban cigars can be found at Dockyard Pharmacy vibrant oranges, greens, yellows and purples, available in a variety of styles and settings. T: 441-234-4577.
Sidekicks Whether you are a football player or simply an enthusiast, Sidekicks is the place to get everything you need to support your favourite team! Authentic jerseys, bags, flags, scarves, hats, balls and more, are all available in the team colours of your choosing, including the Bermuda National Team! T: 441-232-7433.
Dockyard Pharmacy You’ll find everything under the sun at Dockyard Pharmacy, including medications, health and beauty supplies, reading material, souvenirs, sun care products, and more!
Open from early morning to evening, seven days a week, Dockyard Pharmacy is the place for last-minute items. T: 441-279-5410. Editor’s pick: Bermuda food products, including Frog Bites, Longtail Eggs and Dolphin Droppings.
Makin’ Waves Surf’s up, dude! When planning to splash around in Bermuda waters, a trip to Makin Waves is a must! Swimsuits and shirts, sunglasses, boards, towels and snorkel gear are available from this popular Bermudian shop. Brands such as Quiksilver, Roxy, Billabong, Hurley, and Oakley make shopping at Makin Waves not only practical but fashionable, too. T: 441234-5319, W: www. makinwaves.bm.
Bermuda Craft Market The ultimate Bermudian souvenirs come from the Bermuda Crafts Market. Local artists and crafters lend their talents to the Dockyard attraction, producing and selling their Bermuda-made products. Available for purchase is everything including jewelry, books, knitwear, glassware, picture frames, Bermuda Cedar work, watercolour prints, and so much more! Browse the Craft Market and take home a locally-made product. T: 441-234-3208. Editor’s pick: Handcrafted banana-leaf dolls in all sizes.
Ceramic mugs featuring Bermuda scenes and maps from The Bermuda Shop.
Rosebuds When you’re looking for stylish beachwear, head to Rosebuds in the Clocktower mall. Their wide variety of imported fashionable clothing and accessories, including jewelry and sarongs, are available at affordable prices.
Natural scented soaps from Fair Trade Bermuda.
Baan Thai Baan Thai offers an array of exotic items such as organic soaps, handmade candles and essential oils that offer a number of health benefits. From Thailand straight to the Clocktower Mall, Baan Thai’s unique collection of organic teas, diffusers and all things fragrant are sure to satisfy your scents.
Fun Bermuda-inspired food items at Dockyard Pharmacy Colourful coasters featuring Bermuda scenes from Lisa-Anne Rego Gallery.
Sallies Bermuda Preserves from Handmade Bermuda.
Be sure to visit
DockyarDTimes.com
for info on all the daily, weekly and special events during YOUR visit to Bermuda!
www.dockyardtimes.com
Bermuda Candle Company candles in an array of island scents. Outerbridge’s Sherry Pepper Sauce from A.S. Cooper & Sons.
Experience It!
Take a ride on the wild side with a exciting tour of Bermuda on KS Watersports’ high-speed boat the Wildcat
There are various ways to experience the Royal Naval Dockyard and all it has to offer. Jump on a boat for a tour of the reefs and wrecks surrounding Dockyard, hop on a Segway for a slow-paced tour of the historic buildings that make Dockyard such an interesting heritage site, or get up-close-and-personal to the friendly dolphins at Dolphin Quest—whether you choose to do just one, or all the tours in Dockyard, we promise you won’t be disappointed. Island Tour Centre Your vacation starts now at Island Tour Centre, Bermuda’s No. 1 provider of recreational sightseeing tours, activities, and charters. With over 25 years of local tour experience, countless options, easy online reservations, and conveniently located booking offices, they are the first stop for your best Bermuda vacation experience ever. Island Tour Centre is owned and operated by experienced local tour professionals, ensuring up to date knowledge on all of the best places to go as well as things to see and do in Bermuda. Their partner service providers are committed to excellence, and to operating to the highest industry standards, so that they can offer you the very best value for your vacation dollar. No matter what your interests, Island Tour Centre provides the best selection of tours and activities from Bermuda’s top tour operators that are sure to be the highlight of your vacation. Choose from unbeatable diving and snorkeling opportunities, award winning eco and adventure tours, leisurely sightseeing excursions, heart racing thrill rides, and boat cruises to suit every taste imaginable. If you would prefer to explore on your own, their knowledgeable and friendly staff can assist you with boat, bike and
water sport rentals, as well as golf and spa packages. If you have a group or are looking for a more exclusive experience, they offer the largest range of charter options available—everything from luxury yacht charters to party bus pub crawls, they have it all! For more information visit their website, call, or drop by thier booking offices conveniently located at both the Dockyard and Hamilton Ferry Stops. T: 441-236-1300, E: info@islandtourcentre.com, W: www.islandtourcentre.com
K.S. WATERSPORTS Get ready to have the time of your life with K.S. WaterSports, Bermuda’s No. 1 Water Sports Company for fun and adventure. They specialise in thrill adventures and tours that are fun, safe and perfect for the solo rider, couples and families who seek adventure and excitement on their vacation. Experience the thrill of a lifetime on one of their amazing Jet Ski Adventures. Splash and dash throughout Bermuda’s aqua-blue waters, passing many beaches, shipwrecks, forts, the sea gardens and much more. Some of their Jet Ski Adventures even stop off at a shipwreck to feed fish, or stop at a pink sandy beach area for a short swim, or explore hidden coves to spot sea turtles. They offer many types of Jet Ski Adventures that
depart from The Royal Naval Dockyard (Kings Wharf) and the Town of St. George’s daily. Regular Jet Ski Adventures are 65 and 75 minutes long and they now offer the lowest rates in Bermuda for Jet Skiing. Just two minutes’ walking distance from the Dockyard cruise ship terminals, and instructions will be provided to all participants. Their Jet Ski Adventures come highly recommended and are rated one of the best on the island amongst visitors and locals alike, so don’t miss out on these amazing adventures that are sure to provide a whole lot of fun for everyone! Fancy something a little more daring and exciting? Then experience the highflying thrill, panoramic views and pure excitement of parasailing in Bermuda. This adventure will take you over some of Bermuda’s beautiful pink sandy beaches, secluded reefs, historic landmarks or the glistening waters of the Great Sound Harbour, not to mention giving you a breathtaking view of the entire island as well. Step aboard the Thrill Seeker, their powerful winch-boat which allows you to take off and land without getting wet, unless of course you request a ‘dip’. Their professional crew assures you of a safe, fun and memorable experience. You must be five years or older to participate. Looking for the ultimate
Explore Bermuda’s beautiful underwater wonderland with Fantasea Diving & Watersports. thrill ride or sightseeing adventure? Then step aboard the WildCat, for the only high-speed, fully narrated, action packed sightseeing tour of its kind that will take you around the entire island of Bermuda. You will enjoy unique views of the island’s historic sites and other points of interest while experiencing the fun and thrills of riding on this high performance vessel. Sit back and relax as WildCat smoothly cuts through the rolling swells and soars over the islands crystal clear waters. There are several WildCat Adventures to choose from, which take you around the island’s
gorgeous coastline, passing many luxurious resorts, private islands, forts, beaches and million dollar homes, to name just a few. You will see more of the island in just two hours than some locals see in an entire lifetime, plus we even have an adventure that stops right in the town of St. George’s, where everyone will have 75 minutes to get off and explore the many sights that this “UNESCO World Heritage Site” has to offer. The “WildCat is perfect for those looking for the ultimate sightseeing adventure and who like to vacation in the fast lane. No trip to Bermuda would be complete without
a thrilling WildCat Ride! You must be five years or older to participate. Whether by air or by sea, K.S. WaterSports has an adventure for everyone that is sure to excite and make a Bermuda vacation fun and memorable. For Dockyard reservations please call 441-238-4155 or visit the Dockyard Watersports Centre located across from the Bonefish Bar & Grill, and next to the Ferry terminal in Dockyard. For St. George’s reservations please call 441297-4155. E: info@watersportsbermuda.com, W: www. kswatersports.com
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Explore Bermuda by kayak through Fantasea Diving & Watersports, or take in the island’s most popular attractions—like Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse, pictured above right—on a Byways Tour.
Byways Tours
Fantasea Diving & Watersports
Experience a more intimate, personal and local tour of Fantasea is the only PADI Bermuda with Heidi Cowen’s Dive Center located in BerByways Tours. Heidi is a fifth muda’s historic Royal Naval generation Bermudian who Dockyard. Dockyard is the comes from a line of lightideal jumping off point to exhouse keepers from Gibbs plore genuine shipwrecks, viHill Lighthouse in Southampbrant coral reefs and secluded ton. She grew up with her island beaches. Choose from grandfather in the small house daily two-tank dives, Discover attached to the Lighthouse. SCUBA lessons, PADI certiHer tours revolve around her fications and SNUBA diving. historical knowledge and love Our Eco-Tours include snorfor the beauty of her island. keling, glass bottom kayaking Tours are generally between and stand-up paddleboarding five and six hours and include tours, mountain bike tours a lunch stop at the tiny Granand more—all departing from nie’s Kitchen on North Shore, within walking distance of where Grannie prides herself the bus, ferry and Dockyard on her home-made, fresh local cruise ship terminals. We food. After a peaceful lunch offer self-drive boat rentals as in a nearby park, the tour well as a full range of charter continues to the other end of vessels with unlimited bar and this island while Heidi regales catering options for parties her charges (only about six and events. With over 20 per tour) with her historical years of experience, top of the knowledge and quirky local line equipment and friendly stories. and knowledgeable staff, we If you like off the beaten invite you to come and expath and want a more local plore Bermuda with us today! experience, Heidi’s Byways T: 441-236-DIVE (3483) or Tour is a fun, imaginative and 441-236-1300, E: waterbeautiful way to explore the sports@fantaseabermuda. island. Call for bookings. com, W: www.fantasea.bm, Tel: 441-535-9169, E: Facebook: www.facebook. bermudafootsteps@logic.bm, com/fantaseabermuda W: bywaysbermuda.bm SWharf DockTimes2012_Layout 1 4/9/12 10:37 AM Page 1
Bermuda Fun Golf Situated on an acre of oceanfront property, Bermuda Fun Golf features 18 challenging holes designed after famous holes in USA, Scotland and Bermuda. Special features include the Sunset Terrace, affording incredible views of Bermuda’s magnificent sunsets and Caddyshack, their fully licensed bar, great for a casual beverage! When the sun sets, enjoy their ‘GLOW IN THE DARK’ night golf! Fun Golf is the perfect venue for the seasoned golfer and the family alike. Come join them and ‘ putt a round!’ Open 7 days a week, located right next to Snorkel Park through the archway, 10am 10pm. Winter months: open on weekdays by reservation only. T: 441-400-7888, E: office@fungolf.bm, W: www. fungolf.bm
DOLPHIN QUEST Get happily lost in a Bermuda Triangle of fun, swimming with our beautiful dolphins in their ocean water safe haven within the old stone fortress, now home to the extraordinary National Museum of Bermuda. Create a magical multi-sensory
connection when you touch a dolphin that will touch your heart. Enjoy an hour-long Ultimate Adventure, a 45-minute Encounter, a 20-minute Discover Dolphin programme or even a Trainer for a Day or Trainer for a Week experience. Dolphin Quest Bermuda is located at the Royal Naval Dockyard, Bermuda’s premier shopping, dining and entertainment destination, and just a short, scenic ferry ride or taxi ride from anywhere on the island. You’ll share and remember your dolphin moments and your biggest and best smiles ever with our fantastic keepsake photos. Visit the Dolphin Deck Gift Shop onsite for the coolest dolphin shirts, hats, toys, books and souvenirs. A portion of the proceeds from Dolphin Quest supports vital marine education conservation and research. Make a reservation online at dolphinquest.com or contact the reservations office at 441-234-4464. E: dqbermuda@dolphinquest.org, W: www.dolphinquest.org
Bermuda Train Company Be transported back into
history by travelling the roads of Bermuda the old fashioned way—by train. On this tour of Dockyard, the Bermuda Train Company highlights such areas as the Royal Naval Cemetery, the Yellow Fever Burial Ground and the Lagoon Park, home to yellow-crowned night herons that roost in the mangroves. You’ll learn all about the Clocktower building, which was built in 1875 and initially contained the naval store offices, and hear all about the Old Naval Hospital and its epidemic of yellow fever. Learn how in Bermuda we catch and preserve our water, build our roofs and find out why we keep them white. Watch out for our beautiful flowers, banana patches and Bermuda’s own cedars and palmetto. Book your tour today! T: 441-236-3130, E: oleander@logic.bm, W: www. oleandercycles.bm
Bermuda Segway Experience the Segway Human Transporter, Bermuda’s coolest mode of transportation with an easy glide tour of Dockyard. This revolutionary machine is environmentally friendly, self-balancing, fun
SOMERS WHARF Shopping & Dining Complex Water Street, St. George’s www.somerswharf.com
Mangrove Bay, Somerset Tel: 441-234-2484 Open daily 8am-6pm Wed. until 8pm, Sat. until 5pm Sun. 12-2pm
and easy to ride. The adventure begins with your safety in mind and includes a thorough training session. Before you know it, you will be gliding effortlessly through the Royal Naval Dockyard, enjoying unbeatable ocean views and exploring historical sites along the way—including the Clocktower Mall, historic Casemates Prison, Victualling Yard, the Glassblowing and Rum Cake Factory, Historic Sail Loft and much, much, more. This tour allows you ample opportunity for photos and is a unique way to see and experience Bermuda. T: 441-504-2581, E: bookitnow@segway.bm, W: www. segway.bm
Oleander Cycles Why not explore the island at your own pace? Have the freedom to criss cross the island and visit our wonderful beaches, shopping and historical sights on a rented scooter or pedal bike from Oleander Cycles. Visit our Dockyard location or any of our other four other locations around the island. We are open seven days a week. Visit our friendly staff today. T: 441-236-2453, W: www.oleandercycles.bm
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Bermuda Fun Facts • Bermuda is an archipelago consisting of seven main islands and over 180 islands and islets. It lies about 650 miles east of North Carolina. • Bermuda was discovered in 1503 by a Spanish explorer, Juan de Bermudez, who made no attempt to land because of the treacherous reef surrounding the uninhabited islands. • In 1609, after being shipwrecked in the Sea Venture on reefs off the shores of Bermuda, Admiral Sir George Somers established an English claim to the islands. • The Sea Venture sat atop the reefs off Gate’s Bay long enough to be stripped of all useful parts and materials; what was left of her eventually disappeared beneath the ocean. Two of her guns were salvaged in 1612 and used in the initial fortification of Bermuda (one was placed on Governor’s Island, opposite Paget’s Fort, the other on Castle Island). • The play The Tempest by William Shakespeare is believed to have been inspired by the wreck of the Sea Venture. • The area of Bermuda is 22.7 sq. miles. • The population is 69,080 (July 2012 est.) • Bermuda is divided into nine parishes. • There are 2 political parties: One Bermuda Alliance (OBA) and Progressive Labour Party (PLP). • The currency is the Bermuda dollar (BMD) which is on par with U.S. dollar. • The capital of Bermuda is the City of Hamilton. • Bermuda is a British Overseas Dependant Territory with significant autonomy. The oldest self-governing overseas territory in the British Commonwealth, its 1968 constitution provides the island with formal responsibility for internal self-government, while the British Government
retains responsibility for external affairs, defense, and security. • Bermuda became an English Colony in 1684. Bermuda is the oldest British Colony and has the second oldest parliamentary democracy in the world. • Queen Elizabeth II is head of state and is represented in Bermuda by a governor, whom she appoints. Internally, Bermuda has a parliamentary system of government. • The premier is head of government and leader of the majority party in the House of Assembly. The cabinet is composed of ministers selected by the premier from among members of the House of Assembly and the Senate. • Bermuda has no rivers or freshwater lakes. As a result drinking water is collected on the roofs of all buildings and in special catchment areas, and stored in tanks under the ground for each home or property.
Express Yourself with Original Bermuda Beads Our beads fit all major bracelet styles
• The Bermuda Triangle, a triangular area in the Atlantic, is said to be responsible for mysterious shipwrecks, disappearances and air crashes. The apexes of the triangle are Bermuda, Miami, Florida and San Juan, Puerto Rico. • Bermuda’s national bird is The Bermuda Petrel, Pterodroma cahow, Commonly known in Bermuda as the Cahow. The name is derived from its eerie cries, this nocturnal ground-nesting seabird is a symbol of hope for nature conservation because It was thought extinct for 330 years. Initially superabundant throughout Bermuda, the Cahow is a slow breeder, but excellent flier, and spends its adult life on the open seas. At five years old it returns to its former nesting place and begins breeding, laying only one egg per season. Cahows mate for life.
9 Front Street, Hamilton, Telephone: (441) 295-1466 • Fax: (441) 292-6656 Web: www.walkerchristopher.com Email: walkerchris@link.bm
Beyond Dockyard The Old Rectory
Somers Wharf
Step Back in History in St. George’s By Elizabeth Jones
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n the year 2000 St. George’s, together with its related fortifications, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its “outstanding universal value.” But ever since the beginning of Bermuda’s tourism in the 19th century, the island’s former capital, founded in 1612 and officially the Town of St. George, has been a magnet for visitors interested in Bermuda’s history. Situated on the eastern end of the island, it’s the island’s first and oldest town and the oldest English speaking colonial town still in existence. Easily accessible by bus and in the cruise ship season by ferry, the old Town is perfect for exploring on foot. The town square, harbour and quaint, narrow streets take visitors back to a time when churches and houses were made out of hand quarried stone and boats crafted out of Bermuda cedar. Even the place names in St. George’s tantalise the imagination, echoing as they do stories of a colourful past. Blockade Alley, for example, recalls the time blockade
runners during the American Civil War transformed St. George’s into a prosperous, bustling town. The focal point in the town is King’s Square, named after King George III, where replica stocks, pillories and ducking stool recall public punishments for thieves and gossips. On the square is the Town Hall where ever since 1805 the Town Corporation has met once a month. Across a small bridge is Ordnance Island, once a gallows site and munitions storage place, and now the setting for Desmond Fountain’s bronze statue of Bermuda’s founder Sir George Somers. A replica of the Deliverance reminds visitors of the ship Somers and his crew built to take them to Virginia. Overlooking the square is the State House, arguably Bermuda’s first stone building and once Bermuda’s seat of Parliament. St Peter’s Church, the oldest continually used Anglican Church in the western hemisphere, towers over the main thoroughfare, the Duke of York Street. The church, given “Their Majesties Chappell” status in 2012 as part of Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations, is well
worth a visit for its open timber beams, impressive chandeliers and marble memorial stones, as well as a cedar altar table dating back to the 17th century. The churchyard contains several headstones dating back nearly 300 years to when the church was built in 1713, and a separate burial ground for the black population of St. George’s, including slaves. Behind the church is Church Lane leading to a quaint crisscross of picturesque streets and alley ways. Visitors can enjoy views of charming walled gardens filled with flowers and herbs, and traditional Bermudian architecture on their way to the Bermuda Perfumery on Queen Street and the St. George’s Historical Society on Featherbed Alley. They can then continue up to the Duke of Kent Street passing the Somers Garden for a view of the Unfinished Church. Running parallel to the Duke of York Street, is Water Street, recalling the time when it had an uninterrupted vista of the harbour. Today it is known for the Tucker House Museum, a fine example of 18th century architecture, and for its shops and waterside eateries.
Must Sees!
Bermuda Heritage Museum: It focuses on black Bermudian history before and after Emancipation. Bermuda National Trust Museum and Gift Shop: Formerly the Globe Hotel, it features the Rogues and Runners Exhibit, showing Bermuda’s role in the U.S. Civil War. Somers Garden: Named after Sir George Somers whose heart is buried there. St. George’s Historical Society, Museum, Printery & Garden: This is well worth a visit for its traditional garden, welcoming arms staircase, and for its replica Gutenberg Printing Press. It was here Joseph Stockdale printed Bermuda’s first newspaper. St. Peter’s Church: The oldest Anglican church in the western hemisphere. Stewart Hall: Now the Bermuda Perfumery, where luxury fragrances are created, bottled and packaged. The Old Rectory: A picture perfect Bermuda stone cottage dating back to 1699. The State House: Bermuda’s oldest stone building and first seat of Government. Tucker House Museum: An 18th century merchant’s house. Unfinished Church: Once planned as a replacement to St. Peter’s, the church was never completed and has the appearance of a Gothic ruin. World Heritage Centre: Introducing the Town of St. George and its related fortifications to the public as a World Heritage Site.
Pay a Visit to These Old Town Landmarks
St. Peter’s Church
Unfinished Church
Fort St. Catherine
Bermuda’s oldest building, St. Peter’s Church, was built in 1612 by Bermuda’s first settlers looking for a place to worship. Then it was a simple wooden building with a thatched roof, which proved too insubstantial, and the building was rebuilt in stone in 1713. Everything in and around this church dates back centuries; the church’s chalice dates from 1625 and the church’s furniture is among the oldest in Bermuda. Of course, with old churches come old graveyards, and St. Peter’s provides a resting place for many of Bermuda’s most famous individuals, including Pilot James Darrell, the first black Bermudian to own a home, and Midshipman Dale, the last American to die in the War of 1812.
The story of the Unfinished Church begins in 1874, when parishioners of St. Peter’s contemplated replacing their church, which had been severely damaged in a storm. But the churchgoers couldn’t reach a consensus about whether to replace or rebuild. From there, controversy and ill-fate plagued the grand church that could have been. In the end, they decided that St. Peter’s Church would remain the place of worship for the Church of England in St. George’s, thus leaving the Unfinished Church, well…simply unfinished. Today, the Bermuda National Trust owns and maintains the controversial cathedral; it was officially named a World Heritage Site, insuring that the ruin remains unfinished forever.
Located on the most northern tip of Bermuda, Fort St. Catherine stands along the shore overlooking the spot where the Sea Venture crashed upon Bermuda’s reefs in 1609. Built in 1614 by Bermuda’s first governor, Sir Richard Moore, the fort has been renovated numerous times; it was converted into a museum in 1950. Recently updated, the exhibits at Fort St. Catherine include the history of Bermuda and the fort itself; there’s even a replica of the crown jewels. Beware, though; sightings of the fort’s ghost, George, are neither rare nor uneventful.
Sir George Somers’s Heart After the famed Sea Venture wrecked off Bermuda’s shores in 1609, its captain, Sir George, petitioned England that Bermuda would make an excellent colony, and he volunteered to stay instead of following the rest of the survivors to Jamestown, Virginia. Sadly, Sir George died only a year later. After his unexpected death, his body was taken back to England and buried, but his heart remained in Bermuda. People still visit the official resting place of Sir George’s heart in Somers Gardens, St. George’s, although few know that the heart’s actual resting place—thanks to the vicissitudes of time and changing road patterns—is somewhere in the middle of York Street.
St. George’s Square Hear ye, hear ye! If your loved one has wandered off the straight and narrow path, lock him (or her) in the wooden stocks in St. George’s Square. Though we joke about it now, that was the purpose of the stocks and pillory in long-ago Bermuda. Anyone committing a petty crime stood with his head, wrists and ankles between hinged planks of wood as a form of embarrassment and discouragement.
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Anglican Cathedral
Front Street
Dine, Shop and Explore in Hamilton By Elizabeth Jones
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nlike St. George’s, throughout its history the City of Hamilton has adapted its architecture to suit its changing needs. Four years after the city became Bermuda’s capital and seat of Government in 1815, the Sessions House was erected with its distinctive terracotta edged clock tower and arches being added in 1887 to honour Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. The building contains Bermuda’s House of Assembly upstairs, and the Supreme Court downstairs. The Cabinet Building on Front Street,
overlooking Hamilton Harbour was completed in 1841. Originally known as the Public Building and in 1938 as the Colonial Secretariat, it now houses the Premier’s office and the Senate’s meeting place. In the grounds stands a statue of Sally Basset, a slave who was burned at the stake in 1730. In 1884 arsonists burnt the city’s Trinity Church on Church Street. Shortly afterwards work began on rebuilding it and by 1911 it became the official bishopric seat of Bermuda’s Anglican Church. Since then its 143-foot tower has become a much loved landmark on the city’s skyline.
It’s also an attraction for tourists willing to climb the 155 steps to the top for a spectacular panoramic view of the Harbour, the City and much of the Island. As tourism began in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, so shops increased along Front, Queen and Reid Streets, selling to mostly North American visitors luxury goods, including British fine china and glassware, cashmere sweaters, perfumes and cosmetics at duty free prices. Restaurants, offering catering diverse cuisine, bars and clubs began to flourish there, as well as on Bermudiana Road, west of the city. But the biggest architectural changes happened as the city became an international business centre during the 20th and 21st centuries. Now multi-storey office buildings to the west and east of the city, as well as apartment blocks to the north, compete with the cathedral for dominance over
the skyline. The older, more traditional architecture is still in the mix, particularly at the back of town where some of the buildings resemble those in the French Quarter of New Orleans. On Queen Street the Bermuda National Library and Bermuda Historical Society Museum built in 1815 were once the home of Postmaster William Perot who planted the extensive gardens that now make up the beautiful Par-laVille Park. Later he built an annex for his post office, the Perot Post Office, which is still operating. Hamilton’s City Hall and Arts Centre opened as late as 1960 but thanks to its local architect Will Onions, its design is quintessentially Bermudian. Downstairs are the Corporation offices and the theatre. Visitors are welcome to visit the upstairs Bermuda National Gallery and the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery. Easy to explore on foot, the City has park spaces in ad-
City Hall and Arts Centre: Well worth a visit for its appealing white washed design and for the cedar work and portraits in the lobby. In the grounds are bronze statues by Desmond Fountain. The Bermuda National Gallery: On the second floor of City Hall, the National Gallery exhibits permanent collections of African and European art as well hosting temporary exhibits by international and local artists. The Bermuda National Library and Bermuda Historical Society Museum: Established in 1895, the museum celebrates Bermuda’s 400-year history through its Bermudian silver, cedar furniture and portraits. Par-la-Ville Park: Once William Perot’s private garden, in honour of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, it has been renamed the Queen Elizabeth II Park.
dition to Par-la-Ville. Behind City Hall is Victoria Park with its bandstand an ideal setting for summer concerts. Albuoy’s Point near the ferry terminal
and Barr’s Bay Park offer great views of the Harbour and an opportunity to watch seabirds swoop in and out of the water.
FREE UPSIZE
Flannagan’s on Front Street is a favourite local pub and restaurant.
Must Sees!
You can find a wide selection of the famous Bermuda shorts at English Sports Shop on Front Street.
A must-see attraction!
SHELLS • SHIPWRECKS • TREASURE • VIRTUAL DIVE
VIRTUAL SHARK CAGE • BERMUDA TRIANGLE AND MORE!
BERMUDA UNDERWATER EXPLORATION INSTITUTE Open 7 days a week from 10am - 5pm (last admission at 4pm) 15 minute walk from Hamilton Ferry Terminal | www.buei.org | 292.7219
when you purchase any Colonel’s Combo.
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Horseshoe Bay
Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo
Your “Must Do” List!
Hit the beach, explore the reefs and take in some of Bermuda’s best local attractions with our top picks of the best things outside Dockyard that every visitor must do! Tour Crystal Caves Two Bermudian boys in the early 1900s were playing cricket when their ball fell down a hole. When the boys went to retrieve the ball, they discovered it had fallen into a deep cavernous space underground. It was only when they descended into the hole that they understood the significance of their find, which we know today as Crystal Caves. Crystal Caves has attracted famous visitors for over a century, including American poet Mark Twain and music superstar Beyoncé. And the stunning caves are not all for 571_1 - Dockyard Times show, either; they provide an
interesting lesson in Bermuda geology and a fascinating look at the change in sea level over the years. If you aren’t persuaded to visit Crystal Caves for their beauty or history, go for the cave “kisses”; they really are something special. T: 441-293-0640, E: info@caves. bm, W: www.caves.bm
Explore BUEI The mission of the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI) is to advance the knowledge and understanding of the ocean, from the surface to the deepocean floor, especially as it - 3 colx8 - P1.pdf 1 4/10/12 relates to underwater research.
Located on Crow Lane in Pembroke, their exciting exhibits are designed to leave you with a new understanding and appreciation of the world’s oceans, their beauty and power, their diversity in plant and animal life and their importance to the very survival of our planet. Those who visit BUEI learn through the exhibits that the ocean is a living, ever-evolving entity that needs to be explored, studied, cared-for and protected. BUEI remains uniquely qualified to enhance the public’s understanding, appreciation and knowledge 2:42 PM of the ocean because it is
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AND STILL GROWING Visit www.caves.bm for more details. The Crystal Caves are a world of delicate splendour with magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites, each surrounding a clear lake. Come see the Crystal & Fantasy Caves, an exquisite world that Mother Nature began over 30 million years ago. HOW TO FIND US: BUS ROUTES 1/3/10/11 | JUST OFF WILKINSON AVE 8 Crystal Cave Road, Hamilton Parish CR 04, Bermuda | 441-293-0640 | info@caves.bm
the only public institution that focuses directly on the deep ocean and on all the disciplines of marine science, exploration and research. Designed for explorers of all ages, BUEI is not to be missed! T: 441-292-7219, W: www.buei.org.
Climb to the Top of the Lighthouse Standing 362 feet above sea level, Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse is not tall by lighthouse standards, but the view from the top is unrivaled! Shining light over the ocean in a 100-mile radius, the historic Southampton lighthouse has protected Bermuda’s coral reefs from shipwrecks for more than 165 years. Although no longer a key navigational tool to guide seafarers through Bermuda’s challenging network of reefs, Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse is a popular attraction and a well-maintained historical site. Each year, around 25,000 pairs of feet climb their way to the top and look out at Bermuda in all her glory.
Enjoy Spittal Pond Covering 64 acres, Spittal Pond is a place of natural splendour. As Bermuda’s largest nature reserve, it is without doubt one of the best places to observe Bermuda’s array of plants and animals in their natural habitats. From the rocky coastline to the
Crystal Caves eight-acre brackish pond, it’s no wonder why Bermudians love it so much. Another group of people who appreciated Spittal Pond? Shipwrecked Portuguese sailors, who in 1543 (the earliest evidence of human life in Bermuda) carved the initials RP along with the date into the limestone rock.
Visit the Aquarium “To inspire appreciation and care of island environments” is the mission of the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo (BAMZ), which opened in 1926 when the Bermuda Government recognized an opportunity to boost the island’s rising tourism industry. The original exhibits were basic, and local fish were the most exotic creatures on display. Fast forward to present day and BAMZ is a leader in environmental education
and conservation, presenting visitors with opportunities to learn more about Bermuda’s natural history and ways to preserve our island for future generations. BAMZ is on par with the best aquariums and zoos in the world, boasting, among other things, a 140,000-gallon North Rock tank, the new Madagascar exhibit and a state-of-the-art natural-history museum.
Hit the beach Stroke, stroke, stroke, stroke. You’re swimming hard and fast as a perfect, turquoise-coloured wave rolls toward you. You’re just in time, you push off, throw one arm over the other and close your eyes as you feel the wave pull you toward shore. Bermuda is known for our beautiful beaches and pick any one… we’re sure you’ll have the time of your life!
Home of Bermuda’s Greatest Treasures. Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,400 pieces of Bermuda inspired art; some by such famous names as Georgia O’Keeffe, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes. To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary. Also, come and enjoy some sumptuous food from Homers Café and visit our gift shop of wonderful Bermuda crafted gifts. The museum is wheelchair accessible. On three major bus routes (1,2 & 7).
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Bermuda: A Diver’s Dream Being the unofficial shipwreck capital of the Atlantic, Bermuda is a dream location for divers.
I Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art
So Much to See & Do at Botanical Gardens Bermuda’s most popular national park features an impressive art collection housed in a world-class museum along with a sculpture commemorating the parks’ surprising association with one of the world’s preeminent musicians. Masterworks Museum A trip to Bermuda would not be complete without a visit to the island’s most spectacular attraction; The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Opened in March 2008, it is the first purpose built museum in the history of Bermuda and has been named Best Museum/Gallery every year since it’s opening. The new museum houses an impressive collection of 1,400 pieces of art and is comprised of watercolours, oil paintings, lithographs and sculptures as well as a constantly evolving showcase of local artists. The Museum’s permanent collection boasts such names as Georgia O’Keeffe, Winslow Homer, Henry Moore, Marsden Hartley, Ogden Pleissner and many more. Housed in the beautiful Botanical
Gardens in Paget, five minutes from Hamilton, the new museum is itself a work of art. With three exhibition areas, Homer’s Café, a gift shop and state-of-the-art storage and conservation facilities, this is a world-class museum and complete cultural centre of Bermuda.
The Botanical Gardens Opened in 1898, the Bermuda Botanical Gardens originally covered 10 acres and over the years has grown to its present 36 acres. The Botanical Gardens is a quiet place and Bermuda’s most popular national park. There is a palm garden featuring native palmetto trees, a flowering hibiscus garden, a rose garden, a frangipani collection, banyan trees and an enormous ficus tree. Join a free 90-minute walking tour of the
A tribute to John Lennon sculpture by local artist Graham Foster resides in the courtyard in front of Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art.
expansive gardens, visit the popular aviary for a glimpse of the peacocks, or stop in to Homer’s Café at Masterworks Museum for a relaxing lunch or something refreshing.
John Lennon— Double Fantasy Sculpture In June 1980, John Lennon sailed to Bermuda. At the time, he was experiencing a five-year writing block, but his visit to Bermuda sparked his musical genius where he wrote and completed 25 songs. The resulting album was entitled Double Fantasy, named for a flower he had seen in the Bermuda Botanical Gardens. The album was released in November 1980 and he was tragically assassinated three weeks later. Local sculptor Graham Foster was commissioned to create a sculpture in Lennon’s honour. The sculpture is in the courtyard in front of the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. The six-foot sculpture weighs approximately 4,000 lbs. and is constructed from Corten steel which is a type of weathering steel used in the construction of bridges and other steel structures and accordingly is well suited for Bermuda’s climate. Bermuda has proven to be muse for many artists, writers and musicians such as Mark Twain, Winslow Homer, Georgia O’Keeffe and indeed John Lennon. The Botanical Gardens has proven that it is a source of endless inspiration and the “Double Fantasy” sculpture is one more addition to the rich artistic legacy.
t used to be that the passage into Bermuda by sea was a treacherous and daring one. Vast stretches of shallow coral reef, dysfunctional navigational lights, and pirates were just a few of the obstacles captains would face on their course to her shores. From the time of Bermuda’s colonization in 1609, shipwrecks have shaped the history of the island and the character of its people. With 500 square miles of coral reef surrounding 21 square miles of land, it is not hard to imagine why there are over 350 wrecks scattered around the island. The wrecks range from 10 to 500 years old and the styles span the spectrum of ship types used in the history of Atlantic seafaring. Fortunately, today the passage into Bermuda is far more serene—more peaceful, panoramic views and less privateering. As you approach Bermuda’s shores you are swept away by the array of colours the sea presents, by the stunning coral reef, and by the clarity of the pristine water. The quaint and colourful houses are cheerful and welcoming. The landscape in Bermuda is actually more striking for what it lacks—no high rises, no flashing neon signs, no billboards, no multilane highways, and no smog-churning factories—a true paradise. But the best of Bermuda lies beneath the sparkling waters—just a few miles offshore by boat or just a short swim from her infamous pink sand beaches and about 35 feet down. With the mix of fascinating and historic shallow-water shipwrecks and vibrant coral reef, Bermuda is a diver’s dream, and Dockyard is the perfect jumping off point to explore it. A multitude of wrecks to the north, south, and west of the island are accessible from Dockyard (the westernmost tip of Bermuda), each with its own unique and intriguing story. Just 5 miles off the West End of Bermuda lies what might be our most infamous sites—the wrecks of the Constellation and the Montana/ Nola side-by-side. The Nola (commonly, but mistakenly, referred to as the Montana) went down in 1893 and was the first of two civil war blockade runners to wreck on Bermuda’s reefs. Once a 236 foot paddle steamer, the Nola was heading into Bermuda to load coal when the captain misjudged the channel and put the ship onto the reef. All cargo and crew were spared, but a massive gash in the hull made it impossible to refloat her. Divers today can still make out the forward stack, boilers and huge paddle wheels. Laying only 50 feet to her west is the Constellation. The four-masted schooner was en route to Venezuela in 1943 carrying a general cargo of building materials, medicine and 700 cases of scotch whiskey and is thought to
have wrecked by catching the bow section of the Nola and then smashing into the reef. Her remains include 80,000 lbs worth of 50 lb concrete bags and masses of fragmented glassware and ceramics. Peter Benchley (of Jaws fame) based his movie The Deep on this very wreck and the hunt for the valuable drug ampules she was carrying. Unfortunately, the morphine ampules and scotch are all but gone today, although there is still the odd, exciting discovery. The beauty of this site is that the wrecks lay in only 35 feet of water and are within swimming distance of one another. Two wrecks, surrounded by reef and an hour-long bottom-time to explore it all, simply cannot be beaten. Other popular sites reachable from Dockyard to the South include the stunning sea gardens of Southwest Breaker and the upright and the still-intact wreck of the Hermes. To the North we have the splendid reef at North Rock as well as the wreck of the Caraquet, an old British mail steamer with boilers still intact and a giant anchor to be found. These are to name just a few, and dive operators are usually very receptive to requests if divers have their heart set on a particular location. For shore diving, Snorkel Park presents an interesting option with several wrecks within swimming distance of the beach. The site is commonly called the Dry Docks, but is referred to by legendary Bermudian underwater explorer, Teddy Tucker, as “The Junk Yard”. It consists of a gnarled mass of marine trash and treasure and is definitely worth a look on a calm day. The purpose-sunk Dry Docks lay here, with the wreck of the Canadian schooner, Ramona, nestled partly inside them. Equipment rentals and guided shore dives are available at Snorkel Park Beach 7 days per week during peak season. If it is underwater adventure you are seeking on your visit, Bermuda’s diving will satisfy novices to seasoned professionals alike. Average depths range from 25-65 feet, and visibility ranges from 60-200 feet with conditions and season. With no strong currents, very few dangerous marine animals and stringent government licensing requirements, Bermuda presents endless opportunity for safe and exciting SCUBA diving. Most dive shops offer a range of activities and excursions including the popular Discover SCUBA Lesson and Dive for non-certified divers, 2 Tank boat trips for the certified and seasoned, and PADI certifications from beginner to professional. We hope you enjoy Bermuda’s waters as much as we do. Courtesy of Fantasea Diving and Watersports located in Royal Naval Dockyard, Bermuda, (441) 236-DIVE (3483).
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The buildings: 1 Main Gate 2 North Breakwater 3 Machine Shop 4 Great Eastern Storehouse 5 Sail Loft 6 Great Western Storehouse 7 Shipwright’s Smithery 8 Mast Stores 9 Boat Slip 10 Dockyard Terrace 11 Victualling Yard 12 Moat to Keepyard 13 Gun Mounting Store 14 The Keep Other points of interest: A King’s Wharf B Heritage Wharf C Tour Bus & Taxi Stop D Fast Ferry & Bus Stops E Bonefish Restaurant F National Museum of Bermuda G Commissioner’s House H Craft Market I Neptune Cinema J Frog & Onion Pub and The Dockyard Brewing Co. K Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard L Snorkel Park M Dockyard Pharmacy N Casemates
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The Historic Buildings of Dockyard MAIN GATE Completed during the reign of Queen Victoria in 1842, this gate was originally the innermost of three gates protecting the land approach to the Dockyard. The gate was constructed of hard Bermuda stone and was carved to allow the iron gate to fit neatly into the stone work. Above the pedestrian gate is a plaque displaying the Royal Coat-of-Arms. The stone carving on the inner side says, in Latin, that the gate was completed in 1842 during the reign of Queen Victoria. The two cannons set into the ground to protect the gate have been in place prior to the 1890’s.
SAIL LOFT Built in 1860, the main floor of this building sits atop a 537,600 Imperial gallon water tank. The water tank and the building were constructed of hard Bermuda limestone quarried in the Dockyard by convict labour, as were almost all the buildings in the Dockyard before 1863. For over 100 years, this building was the largest clearspan building on the islands, measuring some 50 ft. in width by 155 ft. in length.
GREAT EASTERN STOREHOUSE The Great Eastern Storehouse, now known as the Clocktower Building, contained the naval store offices, secretary cashier offices and the office of the Captain-in-Charge of the
Dockyard. Built in 1857, the walls are three feet thick and the towers are 100 feet tall. The southern tower originally contained a clock made in 1856 by John Moore & Sons, Clerkenwell, London. A clock face on the eastern side of the north tower had a single hand which was set daily for the time of high tide to within the nearest quarter hour. A position marker on the building states the position of the Bermuda Dockyard as measured in 1898.
able to accommodate two 46-gun frigates. In 1869 a floating dock was built in England for the Dockyard and served until the turn of the century when it was replaced with a new one able to accommodate the larger ships then in service. The old dry dock was sold to German shipbreakers but ended up aground across the Sound at Spanish Point where the remains may still be seen today.
GREAT WESTERN STOREHOUSE
Victualling Yard
This storehouse, circa 1857, contained the offices of the Chief Engineer. The roof catchment, like those of the East, South and North storehouses, empties into the large tank below the Sail Loft. Keeping the fleet supplied with drinking water was always a concern of the Royal Navy, particularly in Bermuda where there are no natural fresh water springs or rivers. In order to overcome the lack of local water supplies, the Royal Navy built extensive water catches at the Dockyard. The top of the Dockyard’s Western rampart is covered with whitewashed cement and is one of the largest water catches in Bermuda.
Opposite one another in the parade ground of the Victualling Yard stand the two great warehouses for the storage of ‘victuals’, or foodstuffs. On the northern side of the Yard was the Cooperage, where the barrels of all sizes would have been made for the storage of the victuals. A small railway once ran throughout the dockyard and terminated in the western storehouse. The latter building was unfortunately destroyed by fire in the early 1980s, but it is hoped that new uses will be found for both these magnificent structures will be found in the near future. The buildings were in effect the supermarket of the Dockyard and would have contained all the supplies necessary to ‘victual’ a warship before it departed Bermuda, with several hundred men, gunners and marines on board.
BOAT SLIP The Boat Slip was constructed at the same time as the Great Wharf between 1827 and 1837. The size of the slip was based on a decision in 1829 that the new facility must be
GUN MOUNTING STORE All weapons and munitions from the ships were stored in the Keep which was controlled
by the Army until 1930 when it was turned over to the Royal Navy. There were several types of gun mounting used by the Royal Forces in Bermuda: some of the cannons were on field artillery mounts, some on rails allowing them to swivel and hay wooden mounts for use abroad ships. There were many guns in Bermuda by 1842: 159 artillery pieces protected the North Shore alone. At one time Bermuda was believed so well defended that it was known as the ‘Gibraltar of the West.’
The Keep Separated from Dockyard proper by its massive bastions, the six-acre Keep is an enclave within an enclave. This enormous fortress is the home of Bermuda Maritime Museum. Once the citadel of the Royal Naval Dockyard, the Keep was a proud symbol of British naval might, built to guard the entire naval base against attack, whether by land or sea, and to be an arsenal. The Keep’s seven irregular bastions and ramparts were designed by the Royal Engineers to offer sweeping views of Bermuda and the Atlantic. The lower grounds of the Keep contain a level area carved out of the hillside ranged around by long stone Georgian magazines and workshops. In 1857 the Keep’s sea service stores comprised two bombproof magazines for 6,540 barrels of powder, a shell store, a filling room and a shifting house.
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