The Bangkok BigChilli Feb 14 by The BigChilli Co., Ltd.

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FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT IN BANGKOK

February 2014 08 INSIGHT News, letters, gossip and more 20 SCHOOL RUNNINGS Bangkok Prep’s outgoing Head talks about his career and international schools in Thailand 25 GOURMET A round up of all the best restaurant deals and gourmet events in Bangkok 44 MY TASTY VALENTINE Where to treat your loved one to a meal to remember 48 THE MAN WHO MADE US FLY THAI An adman’s adventures in Bangkok 56 FAKE ME Counterfeit ID cards on Khao San Road 61 EXPAT WOMEN Health, shopping, people, advice and ﬁction 79 WHAT’S ON This month’s best events all wrapped up 91 SOCIAL Last month’s best events in pictures 111 DIPLOMATS The recently arrived Finnish ambassador talks about being responsible for four countries 117 HUA HIN Deals and news 133 PATTAYA News from the Eastern Seaboard

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Without education reform, it’s going to be more of the same for Thailand

NO matter who eventually prevails in the current political standoff, the outcome is likely to be the same: a long list of new names and faces taking up important government posts and making lots of promises, along with a raft of apparently tougher checks and balances supposedly to keep politicians from mis behaving. Can we expect this new regime to give Thailand the better society and economic stability it desperately needs, or will the politicians end up being just as devious and greedy as those they have replaced? Ensuring this does not happen is perhaps the greatest challenge facing Thailand. Can it be done? How do you change a country that has always shown an astonishing level of tolerance for a political system that becomes ever more corrupt? And how do you eradicate a deeply entrenched and highly influential patronage system that encourages bribery, intimidation, bullying and exploitation? It’s not going to be simple, for Thai people are famously easy-going and remarkably forgiving. But real and lasting change can only come from them and via some very serious soul-searching. And that’s only possible through radical reform of the kind of education that should be taught in Thailand. But who’s going to be responsible for teaching young children about morals and the evils of corruption? While the obvious candidates include the government, schools and universities, the clergy, the media and families, none of these institutions seem up to the task. If Thailand fails to educate its people, nothing will change – the revolving doors of corrupt politicians will continue, and this country will be in danger of repeating the mistakes of a past that has seen the relentless rise of tyrants and dictators. And mass protests.

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When flying was a great experience

IN this issue of the BigChilli, we’ve featured the fascinating memories of Roy Howard, who was responsible for THAI Airways International’s many brilliant advertising campaigns during the ’70s and ’80s. This was known as the golden age of flying. Certainly THAI deservedly ranked alongside the world’s best carriers back then. And for airline passengers everywhere, it was an exciting time. Thirty years on, flying has lost much of its romance. These days, it’s all about busy airports, endless queues, invasive security checks and ever-smaller seats on huge 500-seat aircraft whose makers spend millions of dollars telling us that bigger is better. How wonderful it would be to go back to those heady days when THAI ruled Asia’s skies.

German history lesson

GERMANS born post WW2 apparently talk rarely about their country’s role in that vast and bloody conflict. It’s an off-limits topic. Curiously, it is illegal in many European countries and Canada to question or deny some aspects of the war; offenders can face lengthy prison sentences. No other event in history is treated this way. Clearly, such laws are not only ridiculous but also hopelessly outdated. History should be debated and revised, especially in view of it always being written for the benefit of the victors. Besides, what kind of example are so-called developed countries giving to others like Thailand whose privacy laws they often deride?

Wall Street bankers get away with it IN civil proceedings to date, the US government has levied several billion dollars in penalties for misconduct in the 2008 sub-prime property scandals. This sum is dwarfed by the hundreds of billions of dollars lost by investors and home owners. And yet not one senior Wall Street executive has been held criminally liable by the Department of Justice for activities related to financial crimes. Don’t you love those bankers.

PUBLISHER Colin Hastings editorbigchilli@gmail.com MANAGING EDITOR Adam Purcell adambigchilli@gmail.com EDITOR Nina Hastings ninabigchilli@gmail.com ASSISTANT EDITOR Chutinanta Boonyamarn nanbigchilli@gmail.com SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Rojjana Rungrattwatchai sendtorose@gmail.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Thana Pongsaskulchoti thanabigchilli@gmail.com ACCOUNTING MANAGER Saranya Choeyjanya fatcatbigchilli@gmail.com ART & PRODUCTION Arthawit Pundrikapa, Jaran Lakawat PHOTOGRAPHY Mini Bike Gang, David Heischrek and WJ CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anette Pollner, Johanna DeKoning, Judith Coulson, Maxmilian Wechsler, Paul Hewitt

Our online handle is ‘thebigchillimagazine’. Simply type this into Facebook’s search box, find the image of our magazine, then just click add.

We are now on Twitter. Find out what’s happening around town, which events to attend, parties to be seen at, and read all the juicy gossip! Follow us at ‘TheBigChilliMag’ No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from The BigChilli Co., Ltd. The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily the views of the publishers. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the publisher, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. The editor reserves the right to accept, reject or amend any submitted artwork, photographs, illustrations and manuscripts. The BigChilli welcomes unsolicited contributions but assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of such materials damaged or lost in transit.

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TAKE ME TO THE RIVER

■ YOUR story ■ THE round-up of boutique about the businesshotels on the river featured in last man being threatmonth’s issue couldn’t have come ened by a taxi at a better time (Jan 2014. P.50-54). driver wielding a I was looking for accommodation LETT gun was chilling options for my friends, who are OF THER (Jan 2014. P10). visiting Thailand for the first time in March and whom I really want to MONT E H I had my own impress, and your story did all the hard work for me. Far removed from altercation with a taxi driver the hubbub of Sukhumvit, yet still close enough to all the action, Tha Tien’s recently which, while not as violent as the resort-style hotels look to offer the perfect city escape. I’ve forwarded your incident you reported, still left me fearing emagazine to my friends and they’re currently making their decision. Wherever for my safety. It happened when I took a they pick, I’m sure they won’t be disappointed. Thanks. taxi from Don Muang Airport (from the George, Bangkok official taxi stand) on a Monday at 12.30am. Not long after leaving the airport the driver turned off his meter and told me I would ■ THE interview with Dr Khoman of the Nahave to pay 500 baht to go to my destination tional Anti-Corruption Commission (Jan 2014. in upper Sukhumvit because it was “after P.56-60) provided lots of food for thought. While midnight.” Knowing he was pulling a fast the NACC’s aims to weed out corrupt officials one, and that the amount I should be paying and expose dodgy government contracts is cerwas more around the 200 baht mark, I told tainly admirable, I just can’t believe that, with a him – in Thai – to turn the meter back on. staff in excess of 1,000 people, it will have much He immediately became angry and barked success. After all, we all know that corruption is at me – in English – “Why you not tell me endemic in Thailand – so how does the NACC you can speak Thai?” He then grudgingly ensure it has no bad eggs among the bunch? How put the meter on and decided to race to my does it ensure that its staff is unbiased politically? condo as fast as he could. I told him several ■ I’M thoroughly enjoying the Put simply, it series of work by the Bangtimes to slow down during his mad dash can’t. Fingers kok Women’s Writers Group between cars, but this unfortunately just crossed that [see page 60 for this month’s made him go even faster. We had at least one day the story]. In a world dominated by four close calls with other vehicles, and NACC will short, snappy news, it’s good during the worst of these my driver didn’t land a really to see there’s still room for even flinch; he just stared straight ahead, big fish, anger etched all over his face in deep frown well-scribed works of fiction ultimately lines. It was the most terrifying taxi ride I’ve like these. I love spending my silencing me ever had. Needless to say, I didn’t leave a tip Sunday mornings sitting down and other critwith a hot cup of coffee and – even though, after I clambered out of his ics and ushering in a brighter future for Thailand. indulging in their tales – long cab all shaky-legged, he still had the cheek Corruption fighter, Hua Hin may the series continue! to ask for one! What a nutball. Happy reader, Bangkok Mark P, Bangkok

WEEDING OUT CORRUPTION

TALES WELL TOLD

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News|Local interest

Hennesy offers art and culture trip to Japan

■ HENNESY is giving art lovers the chance to win a free trip to Japan to attend the exclusive launch party for “Hennessy V.S x Os Gemeos” featuring world-famous street artist twins Otavio and Gustavo Pandolfo. What’s more, the lucky winner will make the journey to Japan alongside Thai celebrity Natapol “Tye” Liyavanija, street art blogger Somboon “Jeed” Muangsirikwan, and famous Thai graffiti artist Patcharapon Tangruen (a.k.a. Alex Face). The trip will take place from Feb 26 to March 2. To be in with a chance of winning, hit Instagram and post a picture of the clothes, shoes, or hat that you think best matches the theme of ‘Hennessy Essentials” and use the hashtag “HNSY.” For more info see www.facebook.com/ HennessyThailand

Charity Golf Classic returns in March ■ THE 2014 edition of the popular annual Fr. Joe Maier’s Human Development Foundation Charity Golf Classic will tee off on Friday Mar 14 at Royal Golf and Country Club, On Nuch Road. Organized by the popular Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Sukhumvit 63 (Ekkamai), the Charity Golf Classic is now in its 19th year. The tournament is played to a Best 2 Ball Scramble within team Format and has a Noon shotgun start. Entry of B3,900 includes a sumptuous buffet spread by Bourbon St. Interested parties must sign up before March 10. For more details about the tournament, sponsorship

opportunities, and registration, see www. bourbonstbkk.com. Proceeds from the event will benefit Fr. Joe Maier’s Mercy Centre, under the patronage of HRH Princess Srirasmi (www.mercycentre.org).

Calling all entrepreneurs! ■ THE BigChilli is now accepting nominations for our very first Expat Entrepreneur Awards. Arranged in conjunction with communications experts BNOW, the awards will highlight the contribution foreign-managed small and medium enterprises make to Thailand’s economy. If you are an expat entrepreneur with a story worth telling, or you know someone whose company deserves recognition, please let us know at: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com. Alternatively visit thebigchilli.com for a downloadable entry form (entry is free!). More information about the awards can be found on page 18.

‘Sattahip Six’ get Bang Saray in the mood ■ SLEEPY Bang Saray fishing village, south of Pattaya, enjoyed a wonderful musical interlude recently when the newly formed Sattahip Six performed “An Afternoon of Vintage Jazz’ to a packed audience at the Bang Saray Club. Led by local resident Richard Harvey on soprano sax, mandolin and guitar, the group played numerous Sidney Bechet favourites, along with music by George Gershwin and two of the Beatles most popular numbers. Other musicians included Malcolm Morton on trumpet, Mick Barker on guitar, Jonathon Davie on bass guitar, Peter Couling on drums, and Graham Preskett – the only member of this world-class band musician not normally resident or semi-resident in Thailand – who played violin, piano and guitar. The Sattahip Six plan to perform again in other venues around Thailand.

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News|Sport

The city’s best social sporting event returns this month ■ THE ninth annual Oakwood Bangkok International Rugby Tens Tournament charges into town this month bringing top-quality rugby and family-friendly fun to the pitches of Bangkok Patana School (Feb 22-23). Hosting 36 men’s teams, 48 children’s rugby teams, and eight ladies’ touch teams, this exciting and large rugby tournament brings together around 1,600 participants from across the globe, with representatives typically coming from the region, as well as Australia, New Zealand, France and South Africa. What’s more, the tournament also attracts many well-known international rugby stars. Just some of the big names confirmed to play at time of writing include former Springbok captain Bobby Skinstad; former All

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Blacks player Caleb Ralph; former Tongan captain, now TV personality and NZ Sky Sports commentator, Willy Lose; and former Wallaby player Warrick Waugh. Adding to the fun are food stalls, live music, a beer and champagne garden, and a kids’ area with fun games and activities (including a bouncy castle). The Oakwood Bangkok International Rugby Tens is the brainchild of former Canada international Eddie Evans, who played for his nation in three world cups. The tournament is run to raise funds for the Nak Suu Tigers Rugby Academy, a charity for slum children in Bangkok, which helps the children improve their lives through the structure and guidance provided through sports.

“It’s all about putting on a great social event to support the charity,” Eddie says. “Teams love coming to the Bangkok Tens and most of them consider it the best rugby tour of the year. This year the team slots were filled in no time and we have teams on wait-lists, keen to join. “We hope that many Bangkok residents will come to join the fun too. Not only will they have an awesome time, but

every baht they spend at the event will benefit the charity.” Games kick off each day at 8am and finish at 6pm. Enjoy great rugby, spot the celebs, and let the kids run around while you enjoy a drink or two cheering on your favourite team. Bliss. Entry for spectators is free. For more info about the tournament see: www.bangkokrugby10s.net

Insight

Business|Branding

Branding a nation – in just three words PR consultant Kittima Sethi explains how a few well chosen words can boost a country’s international recognition

■ WHAT is your country’s slogan? Or the slogan of the country that you are living in? Have you ever wondered how these one-liners can sum up a country by saying so very little? Many countries today are using slogans or taglines to market, promote and brand their cities to attract visitors. While branding has traditionally been applied to products and services, increased competition in the tourism industry has seen many countries adopt this approach to gain tourists. News of political disturbances, economic issues, natural calamities and social problems make its way into the headlines much faster nowadays, causing a PR and business crisis for those in the tourism and hospitality sector. After damage control, affected countries often launch tourism campaigns to rebuild their country’s reputation and lure back visitors. One way to do this is the use of engaging slogans or taglines to charm and create curiosity among potential visitors. Generally speaking, slogans are short,

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catchy, and easy to remember. A good slogan has strong staying power, which means it is easily etched in people’s minds for years and years. Occasionally, slogans are often accompanied with powerful images or catchy songs. It is important that the slogan complements the branding, keeping the messages consistent. Branding a country is a huge task as it involves representatives of the government, business sector, arts and culture departments, and the academics. Research, including a SWOT and competitive analysis, is required to find out how the country is perceived internally and externally. Some of the most successful slogans used by countries are those that evoke curiosity, fun and capture the uniqueness of the country. Countries that have

used this method include Slovenia’s “I feel sLOVEnia” and Ireland’s “Jump into Ireland”. Last year, The Jamaican tourism board replaced their former slogan, “Jamaica – Once You Go, You know,” with a shorter yet odd slogan, “Jamaica – Get All Right,” explaining that Jamaica was a place that made visitors “feel alright.” A slogan that conjures the country’s natural beauty also resonates well with tourists. These include “New Zealand 100% Pure” featuring untouched landscapes and clear lakes, “Maldives – The Sunny Side of Life” and “Switzerland – Get Natural”. Some countries use intrigue to attract tourists. Take for instance “Croatia: The Mediterranean As It Once Was” or “It’s More Fun in the Philippines”. Spain’s “Everything Under the Sun” not only portrayed Spain as a sunny beach destination, but suggested that Spain had more to offer tourists. Keeping slogans to just two to three words can also be effective as it is simple and easy to remember, especially with powerful images, such as “Incredible India,” “Magical Kenya,” “Japan – >>

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Business|Branding

Endless Discovery,” and “Malaysia – Truly Asia.” There are also slogans that make you grimace. Bangladesh adopted “Visit Bangladesh –Before The Tourists Come,” which sounded like travel advice. Thankfully, the slogan was renamed, simply to “Beautiful Bangladesh.” Another one is “Fiji ME,” accompanied by a bikini-clad woman and the rest I will leave up to your imagination. “Tanzania, Land of Kilimanjaro Zanzibar and the Serengeti” is another slogan that created a puzzled look on people’s faces as not everyone knew the places mentioned in the slogan. One of my favourite slogans is from the little-heard tiny South Pacific nation of Nauru. According to a 2012 report by the World Health Organization, Nauru was named as one of the world’s most overweight countries. Taking advantage of this announcement, Nauru incorporated its citizens’ body size into a new tourist slogan: “Feel Thin in Nauru.” This slogan didn’t last long, though, as it turned out to be an April Fool’s hoax!

While a slogan is just one of the tools used to create a positive image of a country, a good public relations program is also essential. While a slogan is just one of the tools used to create a positive image of a country, a good public relations program is also essential. PR brings the slogan to life with stories and photos. Closer to home, “Amazing Thailand” has amazed the world with its current political upheaval during the Bangkok Shutdown, while nearby “Incredible India” has been dubbed as the “country of rape tourism” after a series of rape cases involving women tourists. Both countries need to work on PR programs to rebuild their reputations and win trust. The same principles outlined above for using slogans and taglines to brand a country can also be used in products and services. I have just shared some examples of country slogans, but you can also create slogans or taglines that your customers will remember for years to come. There is no rule on how long a slogan should be, as long as it is able to connect with the target audience on an emotional level. Keys to an unforgettable slogan include being creative with the words, highlighting the key benefits of your product, keeping it short and simple, and, most importantly, sticking to it and including it in all your communication materials. If you are passionate about your brand and have a clear brand identity, then coming up with a creative tagline will not only strengthen your brand, but will also have the power to change how people view and remember it. Kittima Sethi is a PR consultant at Brand Now Co., Ltd. When not busy following slogans around the world, she may be reached at kittima@brandnow.asia.

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News in brief Music ends for CM2

■ ONE of Bangkok’s most famous nightlife venues, Concept CM2 at the Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, has shut its doors for the last time. Once renowned for its heady mixture of live music and the cosmopolitan nature of its lady customers, CM2 has been “closed permanently” according to the hotel, which gave no reason for its action. During its 20-year lifetime, the basement venue matched the popularity of other major Bangkok nightclubs, including Spasso at the Grand Hyatt Erawan and Riva’s at the now-closed Sheraton Grand Sukhumvit. Regulars say CM2 had become dated when compared to other discos and clubs. They also claim that the quality of the clientele had declined.

Bangkok taxi drivers love their Corollas ■ WHY do Bangkok taxi drivers choose Toyotas? Because they’re incredibly reliable, cheap to run and easy to purchase. At least that’s what you’ll hear from most drivers, who spend up to 12 hours every day searching for passengers or negotiating the city’s notorious traffic. One taxi driver, who is buying his Toyota Corolla, says that after two years and 200,000 kms the only ‘repairs’ he has needed to make are a change of spark plugs and a set of new tyres. His vehicle runs on liquid petroleum gas (LPG), which is considerably cheaper than petrol. During a typical shift, the driver only spends 200 baht on fuel. To fund the approximately 1.2 million baht purchase price of his Corolla, the driver paid a deposit of 150,000 baht, followed by 48 payments of about 22,000 baht a month. He reckons that his vehicle is thereafter good for up to one million kms before a change of engine is required.

Hotel set to grow! ■ WE’VE heard that the owners of a five-star hotel in Bangkok plans to demolish a low-rise section of its building and replace it with a multi-storey tower comprising accommodation and luxury condos.

Expat Recognising the foreign community’s contribution to the Thai economy FOR the first time, companies established in Thailand by the country’s expatriate community will be recognized for their creativity, ingenuity, excellence and proven success in The Expat Entrepreneur Awards of the Year 2014. Supported by The BigChilli magazine in conjunction with communications experts BNOW, the Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014 will highlight the contribution foreign-owned companies make to Thailand’s economy. Awards will be presented in a variety of categories to recognize the amazing diversity of these enterprises. If you are an expatriate entrepreneur with a business story worth telling, or you know someone whose company deserves recognition, please let us know.

Send your submissions to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

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ing t a r b Cebleusineesns ce l excel

Entrepreneur Awards 2014 The categories include: • Arts & culture • Agriculture • Charities & Foundations • Construction & design • Corporate training • Education • Entertainment (music, performance) • F&B (catering, restaurants) • Finance • Health, wellness, & spa • Hospitality

• Manufacturing • Retail (fashion, accessories) • Sports and ﬁtness • Tech & IT • Others (TBA) Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014 Recognizing your contribution to Thailand’s economy.

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Q&A|Keith Wecker

“A good education for a child is not just determined by wealth”

– Keith Wecker, one of this country’s most experienced international school educators

HAVING been an educator in three countries over the past four decades, including 21 years as a headmaster and administrator of three international schools in Thailand, Keith Wecker of Bangkok International Preparatory School is returning to Australia for a well-earned retirement. Before leaving the kingdom, Keith spoke exclusively to The BigChilli about his experiences here and what advice he would give to parents considering sending their children to an international school. How do you feel about finally retiring and returning to Australia? Thailand has enabled me to gain significant professional and personal development in so many facets of the business of managing international education both within schools that I have been employed, as well as my role as the elected Secretary-General of ISAT (International Schools Association of Thailand). Additionally, my election onto the IB regional and international Heads committee, and a foreign chamber of commerce committee in Bangkok have broadened my perspectives significantly. The challenges and experiences gained in the international arena have far exceeded those that I would have likely achieved in my own country; I will be returning to a very ‘different’ place. How do you rate Thailand’s international schools? There are over 110 licensed interna-

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tional schools in Thailand and a significant number of these K-Grade 12 and Preschools would rival the best international schools in most countries throughout the world. This ‘rating’ is not just based on exceptional student academic success, but also on the professionalism of teachers, the state of the art facilities, supportive Boards of Directors, the exposure of the students to so many other nationalities and cultures, and the opportunity of interacting with other students at regional international competitions. Do they achieve a higher success rate regarding university places? Students graduating from international schools in Thailand generally only have one immediate goal – to attend the best universities available overseas, or within Thailand. The success rate is very high and very few students consider ‘working’ after the completion of Year 13/Grade 12; the expectation of students, parents and teachers is that the ‘natural progression’ is to enter university/college to commence a bachelor’s degree. Many more now go on to complete the transition to further study at the master’s level. Any notable ex-students you care to mention? Notable students are not always the ones with the highest academic results. While there have been many high achievers, I think notable refers to many

students who have developed skills, relationships and outcomes well in excess of their initial expectations. What have been the major changes affecting international schools during your time in Thailand? During the past 21 years, the most significant change in the international school arena in Thailand has been the successful proliferation of proprietary international schools which now represent over 90% of international schools in the country. The growth of these proprietary international schools – ranging from franchised names of famous UK/US wellestablished institutions to private share holder owned and financed schools – has ensured healthy competition in all aspects of a quality educational programme. Evidence of this has clearly been validated through the vast number of international schools in Thailand which have now gained external world-wide quality assurance through prestigious and rigorous accreditation agencies such as CIS/ NEASC/WASC, as well as Thailand’s own Ministry of Education agency ONESQA. These benchmarks have been implemented in Thailand during this period of time. Are more Thai students attending international schools than in the past? Over the past two decades, the licensing and successful operation of proprietary international schools in Thai-

land has enabled more places to become available for Thai students to attend and gain a quality education. Equally, Thailand continues to attract more expatriates and whilst the total number of students attending international schools has increased significantly, many schools do set percentage quotas on Thai national enrolments.

What regulations have changed to allow this? The Thai Ministry of Education, under its Private Schools Act of the early 1990s, initially set a quota of no more than 50% of Thai national students enrolment per international school. The regulations have not been enforced and this has enabled some very successful academic proprietary schools to operate with up to 85% Thai nationals and cater to the expectations of those Thai parents. There is a large proportion of both proprietary

and not-for-profit international schools whose Thai student quota is in the range of 30-55%. However, many of the schools have between 25-40 different nationalities of students, thereby ensuring a multi-cultural environment. So, in effect, Thailand’s international schools are now elite places of learning, as opposed to a venue for children of foreigners living in Thailand? Before the 1990s Thai students were not in attendance in international schools unless they had a foreign passport. However, quality places of learning are now accessible for all the three main sectors of the market – expatriate children whose tuition is funded by foreign companies, wealthy Thai nationals, and foreign nationals who have settled in Thailand and are self funded fee payers, often with luk-krueng children.

Have standards at international schools improved over the years? The standards of international schools have improved significantly over the past 20 years, primarily due to accreditation and availability to share information with other institutions worldwide. What about standards at local schools during the same period? The international association, ISAT, has forged stronger links with the Thai Ministry of Education over the past 20 years and many Thai officials are now aware of the innovative teaching and learning practices operating in international schools. International schools freely share this knowledge with Thai

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Q&A|Keith Wecker

teachers and administrators of local schools who visit international schools or attend workshops.

Do you think fees at international schools are excessive, or reasonable? International school fees vary significantly and are indicative of a wide range of fiscal decisions, including facilities, land ownership/rental, class sizes and staff salaries. A quality product requires appropriate funding to ensure a successful business model supports the educational programme.

Does the Ministr y of Education set the rules for international students’ education, or are schools relatively free to set them? The Thai Ministry of Education (MOE) has strict criteria for teaching licences, visas and work permits for foreign teacher registrations. All international schools must be initially licensed by the MOE and then are required to seek external international accreditation within six years of operation. However, the MOE allows schools to set their own curriculum, with the only obligatory requirement being that Thai nationals must study Thai language for five periods each week and foreign nationals to study Thai culture for one period per week.

What do you consider your greatest achievement as an educator? Having been an educator in three countries over 39 years, my greatest satisfaction has been helping promote the development and awareness of interna-

“It has been my experience and observation that when children return to their home countries after a significant How do you feel about children of wealthy families receiving a good time overseas, that ‘reverse culture education while those from the lesswell-off do not? shock’ requires a greater adjustment than A good education for a child is not just determined by wealth. Morals, ethics, valthe initial transitional change.”

ues, compassion for others and a desire to succeed in life is very much depended upon the child’s motivation, ability to learn, and family environment, rather than just being taught in a prestigious institution. Any obvious shortcomings in international education here? International education in Thailand is booming – the greatest challenge of international administrators is to attract, recruit and retain top quality teachers in such a competitive environment, not just within Thailand but in SE Asia and East Asia.

What advice would you give to newly arrived parents looking for an appropriate school for their children? Much has been written in various newspapers, magazines and guides within Thailand over the years about the 15-20 key aspects to consider as ‘reasons for choice.’ One of my wife’s master’s degree dissertations actually focused on this topic. Perhaps the most important factor is ‘the best fit for the child,’ rather than the most prestigious school. Is it the same advice for Thai parents,

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and parents of mixed marriage? Yes, definitely! Some children, especially 100% farang and third culture kids, apparently have a tough time adjusting to life after international school. What’s your advice? Students who attend international school in Thailand are given a privileged opportunity to succeed in a supportive nurturing environment. My own three children adjusted quickly to the cultural aspects of schooling in foreign countries. However, it has been my experience and observation that when children return to their home countries after a significant time overseas, that ‘reverse culture shock’ requires a greater adjustment than ‘the initial transitional change.’ Social media nowadays enables ex-students to keep in contact but perhaps the most important factor for returning expats is to take the initiative in developing new local friends and relationships outside the ‘comfort zone’ of the so-called expatriate circle.

tional education in Thailand and assisting in Thailand’s world positioning as a country of quality international education options. Best and worst memories? The best memories have always been the people – students, staff, parents, boards and other Thai people within the community. It is people who ultimately make things happen. The challenges, perhaps, have been dealing with the various disruptions to the children’s education – Asian financial crisis, SARS, bird flu, various political unrests and floods. But then again, Thailand has proven itself to be such a resilient country that it moves forward after every incident. Have your experiences here made you a better person? Most deﬁnitely. I believe I am now far more reflective, more tolerant of differences, and wiser on how my decisions impact on others.

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Gourmet p Wine and restaurant news

Romance on a plate! Where to treat your loved one in Bangkok on Valentine's Day. Page 44.

What’s Cooking A round up of this month’s best gourmet deals. Yummy! Page 26

Meet the chef Dusit Thani Bangkok's Executive Chef shares his culinary secrets Page 34

Dining out

Our favourite restaurants reviewed and listed Page 38 TheBigChilli

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Dining|News

What’s Cooking

Bangkok’s hottest dining deals and news

A taste of wild game

61 Wireless Rd. ☎ 02 650 8800

International | Until Feb 28 | plazaatheneebangkok.com WILD game responsibly sourced through reputable suppliers takes centre stage this month at The Reflexions French restaurant (Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Méridien Hotel), where Chef Daniel Bucher is using prime, lean cuts of Wild Boar, Bison, Venison, Hare, and more game meats to create a “Le Petit Chaperon Rouge”(Little Red Riding Hood) themed menu featuring highlights such as Wild boar terrine with foie gras, pear chutney and saucisson; Baked pie of game meat with foie gras and organic salad; and French pheasant, champagne pickled cabbage and chestnut.

Sunday BBQ Buffet Sunday Re:hab at Crave

Sukhumvit Soi 11 ☎ 02 207 7080

International | Every Sun |  Aloftbangkoksukhumvit11.com PARTY animals appreciate nothing better than a late lunch on a Sunday. After all, after a long night on the sauce a sleep-in is a must. And nothing beats a hangover better than a plate heaped with tasty goodies. Head to Aloft Bangkok’s new late Sunday lunch (every Sun from 1pm-5pm) and you can even keep the party going thanks to free-flow cocktails, music from live DJs, and a hearty buffet of international eats plus dishes cooked to order at live cooking stations (highlights include Oyster and Prawn Cocktails, Grilled flatbreads, Teriyaki stations, and Whole roast suckling pig). B990++ per person.

New mixologist at Trader Vic’s

257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. ☎ 02 476 0022

Sukhumvit Soi 11. ☎ 09 626 7655

International | Every Sun | apotekabkk.com APOTEKA Sukhumvit has launched a new all-you-can-eat Sunday BBQ Brunch which, alongside a BBQ station offering all kinds of top quality meats, features live music by some of the city’s hippest bands, and free-flow drinks (B900 with Heineken and Sangria; or B600 with soft drinks). A collection of fine PDR cigars are also available in the humidor.

Tandoor Specials

2074 Charoenkrung Rd. ☎ 02 688 1000

International |  bangkok-riverside.anantara.com

Indian | Until Feb28 | www.ramadaplazamenamriverside.com

SPANISH cocktail maestro Roberto Cuda has been appointed as the new expert Mixologist at Anantara Bangkok Riverside’s Pacific Rim restaurant and bar, Trader Vic’s. Honing his trade at world-famous bars in Spain, Sardinia, Ibiza, Italy and Brazil, as well as at renowned establishments in London, Amsterdam and Dubai, this globetrotting drinks wizard approaches cocktails the way a chef would food – sourcing only the best ingredients and combining herbs and fruits to lip-smacking effect. Try his signature Trader Blazer, which blends Jamaican rum, Cognac V.S.O.P, matcha Japanese tea with condensed milk and a cinnamon stick.

INDIAN food fans should make a beeline for Ramada Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside’s The Terrace @ 72 restaurant this month. As part of its already extensive international buffet, the restaurant is offering mouth-watering skewered tender meats and fresh seafood served a la minute from a hot tandoor stove. Accompanying these kebab-style treats are a variety of flavoured naan breads, also cooked in the tandoor stove. International Dinner Buffet is B900 from Sun-Thurs; and B1,200 on Fri and Sat (half-price for kids).

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Dining|News

A taste of China

Siam Square Soi 6 ☎ 02 209 8888

Chinese |  novotelbkk.com FOR a taste of provincial China pop along to Lok Wah Hin, Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square, where Chef Leung is now using ancient recipes, handed down through the generations, to create authentic favourites such as Braised abalone in clay pot, and Braised sea cucumber and fresh fish maw topped with oyster sauce. Dishes start at B600.

Great value at BeerVault

Sukhumvit Soi 15 ☎ 02 309 3201

Afternoon delight

International |  fourpointsbangkoksukhumvit.com FOUR Points by Sheraton Bangkok’s popular BeerVault has teamed its extensive drinks selection with a new food menu promising to leave your wallet almost as full as your stomach. Starting at just B200, the menu features highlights such as BV giant burger (double cheese burger with fries), Aussie beef burger, Steak sandwich, and Veggie burger.

Time for Splunch

Sukhumvit Soi 22 ☎ 02 261 9300

International | Until May 31 |  imperialhotels.com HOW about this for sheer indulgence: a unique treatment at Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel’s Imperial Spa combined with your choice of a sumptuous international buffet lunch at Parkview Restaurant(11.30am-2pm), High Tea at the Lobby Lounge (2pm7pm), or healthy snacks by the pool (2pm-6pm). The deal is B1,400 per person for a one-hour Aroma oil massage, or B2,000 per person for a one-hour Imperial Jurlique Facial.

Chef’s specials at The Coffee Club

All branches ☎ 02 381 2736 (Sukhumvit)

International |  coﬀeeclub.com.au A FAVOURITE with expats and Thais alike, The Coffee Club Thailand serves top grade coffee and tasty international eats at great value for money. Head to any of its branches this month and you’ll be able to select from a limited edition chef’s menu featuring dishes such as Chicken schnitzel with Italian slaw; Poached eggs with avocado, bacon, tomato and rocket salad; and Strong arm Angus burger with cheese and bacon. Menu starts at B180 per dish.

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Sukhumvit Soi 22 ☎ 02 683 4888

International |  ihg.com TEA, sandwiches, fruit, pastries, and desserts – the new afternoon tea set at Zeta Café, Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit, has bites and brews to suit every taste. Highlights include crème brûlée, blueberry cheesecake, and chocolate chip cookies, all of which are sure to go down perfectly with your favourite choice of cuppa. B250++. Served daily 3pm-5.30pm.

Gourmet

Pics|Events

Gourmet scrapbook Last month’s foodie functions in focus

Caviar and vodka from Belgium POPULAR Bangkok restaurant Quince was the venue for a tasting of Belgian gourmet fare, including Obey Premium Vodka and Royal Belgian Caviar, imported by B-Delicious. Among the guests was H.E. Marc Michielsen, the Belgian Ambassador.

Smith launches new menu concept

SMITH, the Sukhumvit Soi 49 restaurant located in a reclaimed 40-year-old warehouse, held a tasting for the media to launch its new dining concept that sees half of its menu changing monthly. The new line-up includes Chicken ‘Tonnato’ with green grapes, tuna cream and truffle; Pork sausages and mash with smoked potatoes; Lobster ‘Pasta’ with brown butter-truffle froth, sweet paprika and mushrooms; and Caramel chicken breast with asparagus and toasted lemon. Popular dishes like Black label burger and succulent Lamb ribs remain regular fixtures on the menu. On hand to oversee the event were Smith’s founders, Chef Ian Kittichai, Chef Peter Pitakwong and Chanond Purananda. 30

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"For A Healthy Life Style"

1. 2. 3. 3.

Gourmet

Pics|Events

Theodore opens its new Sukhumvit warehouse

Theodoré International, importer of high quality fresh seafood, meats, fruits and vegetables, held a launch party to introduce its new warehouse and distribution centre on Sukhumvit Soi 71. A large number of Guests, who included leading Bangkok restaurant owners, were able to sample many of the company’s newest product lines.

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Chef in focus|Philippe Keller Most inﬂuential chefs? Marc Veyrat, Daniel Boulud, Jean Michel Lorain

Your cooking philosophy? Respect products, and cook with love

SERVING UP Philippe Keller

Dusit Thani Bangkok’s Executive Chef on his favourite food, wine, and chefs

Beef or chicken? Beef

Favourite wine? Château Latour 1996

Favourite quote? Life is short, so it’s best to try everything as much as possible Favourite ingredients? Butter and trufﬂe

How do you keep slim? By exercising and working hard Most difﬁcult dish you’ve ever prepared? Lièvre à la royale

All-time favourite restaurant? Daniel in New York

Your favourite dish to cook? A whole dover sole

Worst kitchen disaster? When food deliveries do not arrive Your signature dish? Pan-fried duck breast with duck liver

Cooked for any VIPs or celebrities? Yes many, but mainly in London and New York. Among them: Pamela Anderson, Will Smith, Robert de Niro, Martin Scorsese, and Bill and Hilary Clinton

Your favourite aspect of fusion cuisine? Combining two different kitchen cultures

Chef Philippe in focus ■ FRENCH national Philippe Keller is the Executive Chef of the Dusit Thani Bangkok. Here he oversees all of the ﬁve-star hotel’s food and beverage operations, and manages a team of around 140 kitchen staff and 40 stewards. Prior to joining the hotel in 2007 as Chef de Cuisine of D’Sens French Restaurant, Philippe was Executive Chef of Sketch Restaurant in London. Other notable workplaces on the chef ’s impressive CV include the three Michelin Star Daniel Restaurant in New York; the three Michelin Star La Cote St. Jacques (Relais et Châteaux), Burgundy, France; and the three Michelin Star L’auberge de L’eridan (Relais et Châteaux), Rhone Alps, France. With over 20 years’ experience in the trade, Chef Philippe is well versed in western cuisine, Asian and modern fusion.Try his food for yourself at the Dusit Thani Bangkok. Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama IV Road

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☎ 02 200 9000 dusit.com

Dining|Recipe

Recipe of the month Salmon herbs cream cheese dome and mesclun salad Lighten up your lunch with this refreshing, flavour-packed treat by Suvit Sangasub, Executive Sous Chef of Holiday Inn Bangkok Silom Ingredients For Herbs cream cheese dome • 30g Cream cheese • 5g Chopped fresh dill • 10g Chopped red onions • 10g Chopped chives • 10g Horseradish sauce • 20ml Fresh cream • 5g Crushed black pepper • 40g Sliced smoked salmon For the dressing • 10 pcs Capers • 10g Diced red capsicum • 25ml Lemon juice For side salad • 30g Mesclun salad • 20g Shallot sliced • 1 pc Lemon wedge

Method Herb Cream Cheese 1. Put cream cheese in mixing bowl 2. Add chopped dill, onions, pepper, fresh cream, chopped chives, horseradish sauce and mix well

3. Fill this hollow centre with cream cheese then top with smoked salmon 4. Place tea cup upside down on plate 5. Gently remove the cling film and there you have it – your salmon dome

Smoked Salmon 1. Line the inside of a tea cup with cling film 2. Place smoked salmon around the sides and bottom of the tea cup, so it has a hollow centre.

Dressing and Salad 1. Arrange the salad around the sides of the salmon dome 2. Top the dome with caviar 3. Add dressing to the salad leaves, and garnish with a lemon wedge

About the chef

b Chef Suvit Sangasu 36

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SUVIT Sangasub is Executive Sous Chef of Holiday Inn Bangkok Silom. A culinary artist who likes to create new dishes – especially fusion – Chef Suvit has worked in the trade for over 20 years. Former workplaces include Kaoyai Grand View Thani Resort, Amari Watergate Bangkok, and, prior to joining the Holiday Inn Bangkok Silom in 2004, the Mayfair Marriott Executive Residence. As you can see from the food picture on this page, Chef Suvit has a knack for elegant presentation. Best of luck making your salmon dome appear just as appetizing at home – it’s trickier than it looks! Holiday Inn Bangkok Silom, 981 Silom Rd. ☎ 02 238 4300 holidayinn.com/silom

cut out and keep

Gourmet

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Where to eat Recommended restaurants and bars

Italian cuisine

Gianni

Owner/chef Gianni Favro, a Venetian, has a cadre of regulars, many from the ‘Old Country,’ keeping this place busy most nights of the week. In addition, he gets more of the Italian tourist crowd than most local places, plus lots of prominent Thais. The setting is openplan, with abstract paintings, soft lights and shared couches. Set lunches make Gianni’s far cheaper at lunch than at dinner. The 200 different Italian wines give it probably the largest Italian wine list in town. Call for reservations; it gets busy.

Basilico Pizzeria

Popular since the day it opened, the emphasis here is on pizza and pasta, but there are other things on the menu, including great grilled lamb chops. The pizza is Neapolitan style with a slightly lighter crust to match Bangkok tastes. The restaurant is large and possesses rooms for private functions, but most people sit out front in the atrium with its enormous wood-ﬁred oven. Sukhumvit Soi 33, across from Novotel Lotus Hotel (BTS Phrom 02 662 2323 Phong),

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The Rib Room and Bar has taken grill restaurants in Bangkok to new heights. Located on the 31st ﬂoor and decked out in Ferrari red, its interior is stunning and the views provided spectacular. Steaks from Australia, the USA, Japan and Thailand prepared in an open kitchen and accompanied by a delicious supporting cast are what this place is all about. Expensive, but the good food and rush provided by the setting make it worth the price.

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Tucked away on the eighth ﬂoor of the Pathumwan Princess Hotel opposite the hotel’s huge saltwater swimming pool, Loop is one of the city’s best kept dining secrets. Why? Well, sit out on the terrace in one of the plush, large banquettes and you’ll feel like

RR&B Rib Room and Bar

Landmark Hotel, Sukhumvit Rd between Sois 4 and 6 (BTS Nana), 02 254 0404

Soi Tonson, 250m from Ploenchit Rd 02 252 1619 (BTS Chidlom)

Loop

Steakhouse

you’re dining at a restaurant in a beachside resort rather than at a hotel in the heart of the city. The menu features home-style Italian cuisine with a focus on fresh Mediterranean ﬂavours – think light salads, seafood, grilled Aussie beef and lamb, and, of course, pizzas. A daily set lunch deal offers a choice of either two-courses for B450, or three-courses for B550. Pathumwan Princess Hotel, MBK Center. Open daily 11.30am02 216 3700 ext. 20818 10.30pm.  pprincess.com

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New York Steakhouse

This is one of Bangkok’s most popular steakhouses. Elegant, but still relaxed, it’s packed every night and reservations are a must. Other things appear on the menu, but steaks are what it’s all about. Features the ﬁnest US

Tenderloins Bar & Grill

Notable for successfully marrying a crackling bar and an excellent grill featuring some of Bangkok’s best and most reasonably priced steaks,Tenderloins has a lot going for it.The menu is short, but features beef from Argentina, Australia, New Zealand and the USA. Burgers, salads and other items are also available.The wine list is compact and primarily Australian, but it has some excellent inexpensive choices.Tenderloins is a good and affordable choice for an after work drink and a good steak. Sukhumvit Soi 33(BTS Prom Pong), 02 258 4529

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and Australian meat that is always properly stored and aged. The wine list is extensive and features a large number of wines by the glass. Numerous cocktails are available, but do yourself a favour and try the Classic Martini. It’s the perfect prelude to a steak. This restaurant isn’t cheap, but it’s worth the tariff. JW Marriott Bangkok at Sukhumvit Soi 2 (BTS Ploenchit or BTS Nana) 02 656 7700

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International cuisine

100m Wine & Bistro

Creative cuisine and delectable wines are served in style at this modern restaurant on the 22nd floor of the S31 Sukhumvit boutique hotel. Sit at any of the well-dressed tables and you’ll enjoy an expansive view of the Bangkok cityscape, a breathtaking sight which is especially stunning at night. From the kitchen come gourmet creations which blend Italian and French flavours to exciting effect. Pan seared yellowtail loin fish, Sous vide lamb loin, and Pan seared foie gras are all must tries. And sweet lovers shouldn’t miss the Panna Cotta, which has a delicate balance of cream and fruity flavours; a real sweet treat to be savored. S31 Sukhumvit hotel, 545 Sukhumvit 31, open daily 4.30pm – 10.30pm. 02 260 1111 ext. 2302  s31hotel.com

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Bacchus

One of Bangkok’s genuine wine bars, Bacchus is a trendy hideaway popular with locals and expatriates. Located at the Ploenchit end of Ruam Rudee Village, Bacchus is actually two shophouses that have been cleverly designed to resemble a cross between an upmarket restaurant and a chic yet cozy home set on four levels, including a see-thru ﬂoor. The wine selection is enormous and competitively priced, while the cuisine is a mixture of European, Japanese and Thai. The restaurant can be hired in part or whole for private events. Ruamrudee Village, 20/6-7 Ruamrudee Ploenchit, 02 650 8986 email: info@bacchus.tv  bacchus.tv

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Trader Vic’s

If you are looking for a great place to take visitors from out of town or simply to escape the stresses and strains of everyday life in Bangkok, Trader Vic’s restaurant at the Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort and Spa, which has been wowing Bangkok diners with its French-inspired Paciﬁc Rim cuisine for over two decades, is a must visit.The restaurant’s two-page food menu may not be one of the most extensive in town, but the focus here is on quality over quantity. Highlights include Ahi Poke (B280++) – featuring raw tuna, avocado, and chopped chilli dressing with a small string-wrapped parcel of crackers; BBQ Duck Breast (B500++), and Indonesian Lamb Rack (B850++). Trader Vic’s Sunday Brunch is also a must try.

No Idea

This popular gastropub on Sukhumvit 22 always pulls in a large crowd of sports lovers (big-screen TVs throughout offer football, rugby, golf and whatever else is on demand), but the real draw here remains, of course, the food, and like all gastropubs, the menu is a work of art. There are many mouthwatering soups, pasta, risottos, pizza, sandwiches and burgers to choose from – all offered at great value for money. Whatever your reason to visit the pub, No Idea has the space, style and comfort to ensure you had the right idea to visit. Sukhumvit Soi 22  noideabk.com

☎ 02 663 6686

Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Road (free shuttle boat from Saphan Taksin 02 476 0022 ext. 1416 BTS)

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Gourmet

Seafood

Asian cuisine

Liu

Conrad Bangkok’s neoclassical gourmet Chinese restaurant features a range of innovative Shanghainese, Sichuan and Cantonese dishes that you won’t ﬁnd elsewhere in Bangkok. Dishes range from traditional dim sum selections to a wide choice of seafood, chicken, duck and beef specialties. Although it’s not one of Liu’s unique creations, its famous “Dong Po Pork” (B320) is a must try – featuring stewed pork belly with dark soy sauce served with Chinese buns. Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 02 690 9999 87 Wireless Road  conradbangkok.com

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Vientiane Kitchen

Upmarket Laos and Isaan food served in a bamboo restaurant constructed around a giant tree. Wildly popular with Japanese and Korean tourists who enjoy the beer, funky Isaan music and dance, and the chance to nibble on Lao-style eats. Although the spice level is toned down, the ingredients are from up country. Items like frog, duck’s beak and ant’s eggs are readily available should you be interested. This restaurant is always fun and a great place to take someone from out of town. Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS Thonglor) 02 258 6171

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Baan Klang Nam

Thai/Chinese seafood dining at its best, this restaurant may be hard to find, but it’s definitely worth the effort. Frequented by Thais and farangs who know a clam from an oyster, it puts most of the city’s seafood emporiums to shame. The menu is large and so are the portions. All of the fish is good, but so are the scallops, river prawns and deep-fried soft-shell crab. Casual and laidback, there is live entertainment in the evening, and the open-air setting on the river is cool and refreshing. At the end of Soi 14, Rama III, near the Montien Riverside Hotel 02 292 0175

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Le Dalat Indochine

Vietnamese food with signiﬁcant French overtones served in a delightfully converted residence. The interior is packed with the owner’s memorabilia and bric-a-brac, giving the restaurant a comfortable feeling. Before going

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to your table, have a drink in the funky little Le Lotus Bleu Bar at the entrance. The food is superb, especially the seafood. For a real treat try Cua Rang Me, a whole pan-fried crab that is coated with tamarind paste, spring onions and pounded garlic. It’s messy to eat, but the chance to chew and suck on the garlicky shell makes it worth the effort. This place is highly recommended. Sukhumvit Soi 23, 600m from Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Asoke or MRT 02 661 7967 Sukhumvit)

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Café Fish

With handy locations in Bangkok’s most popular malls, the aptly named Café Fish restaurant chain reels in seafood fans in droves with a wide selection of deep sea delights such as classic Fish and chips (B290) and Mediterranean-inspired Seafood with pasta in Pomodoro sauce (B290). While the restaurant is nothing like your classic British chippy – no greasy walls, no ﬁsh wrapped in paper,

Lord Jim’s

Seafood, views of the Chao Phraya, and the rush that comes with dining at the Oriental are what Lord Jim’s is all about. There is a good buffet at lunch featuring all sorts of seafood, including sashimi, sushi and oysters. In the evening, it goes a la carte and becomes one of the best places in the city for classic Western seafood dishes. For those who don’t enjoy seafood, there are other items on the menu. The wine list is ﬁrst class and there is live music in the evening. The Oriental Bangkok (BTS Saphan Taksin, then complimentary hotel shuttle boat) 02 659 9000

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no waitresses with names like Shaz shouting “Once, twice wrapped please!” to a grizzled chef wearing an apron splattered with batter –the branches still have plenty of buzz and a café-like feel thanks to uncluttered tables, young trendy staff in sneakers, and open kitchens where you can spy chefs preparing your ﬁsh before it gets its sizzle on. Café Fish can be found at Emporium, Terminal 21, and Siam Paragon Open daily 10am-9.30pm

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Dining|BB&B

DiVino on top form Bangkok Beefsteak and Burgundy kick starts its culinary year in style with a lengthy Italian lunch

N old friend of the Club, Roberto Ferin, presided over the first BB&B lunch of 2014. Roberto seemed to have changed little since the Club’s last encounter with him back in 2007 and was a very attentive host throughout. We started with numerous hors d’oeuvres including smoked salmon, tasty sausage, as well as wonderful helpings of moist Parmesan cheese. There was a choice of Zardetto Prosecco (Italy) or Grosset Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011 (Clare Valley, Australia), and both were enjoyed. Beef tartare with truffle and steamed salami with polenta arrived right on time at 1pm, accompanied by Howard Park Riesling 2009 (Australia). A nice crisp but not tart Riesling, this wine found favour with Reinhard Maurer,

our wine spokesman for the day. Both the salami (pork) and the tartare were extremely tasty and not overwhelmed by the truffle. Home-made truffle ravioli in a very creamy parmesan sage sauce followed. Again, the pasta was not overwhelmed by the truffle. The 2009 Pegasus Bay Main Divide Pinot Noir (Canterbury, NZ) was truly excellent. Quite heavily bodied and dense for a pinot noir, it was slightly bitter and tannic, but with a long finish, and was found by most to be the best wine of the day. All but one of us were then treated to Ossobuco served on polenta. The veal

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was a little firmer than most of us had anticipated but the taste did not suffer. Some thought the dish would have been enhanced by mashed potato in place of the polenta. The odd man out, our food spokesman and late unexpected arrival in Bangkok, James Harkness, enjoyed lamb rack served as a replacement dish which he told us was very good indeed. The dishes came accompanied by Don Anselmo Aglianico Del Vulture 2006 (Basilicata, Italy). Very different to the pinot, this wine took some time to appreciat, but after tasting along with the ossobuco, it proved to be a good pairing.

An excellent cheese dish followed; a Goat milk gorgonzola and a very creamy parmesan topped with honey. It came with Ridge Vineyards Geyserville 2008 (Sonoma County, USA), which again was a pleasing wine with a soft, nice texture, medium tannins, and a good finish. Topping off this veritable feast was Home-made classic Italian tiramisu and Ben Rye Passito 2008 (Sicily). I thought this was a delicious dessert wine with which to complete our meal. Roy Dean had yet more thoughts, though, and we found ourselves quaffing our eighth wine of the day, a Madeira; a generous gift from Roy but one which nearly proved to be the proverbial straw that broke the camel’s back. The staff was nearly on its knees when the last of the coffees were delivered to the table and Roberto produced grappa, lemoncello, sambuca, and … “In Italy, the digestive system is taken more seriously than Catholicism, hence the fascination with post dinner Amari designed to soothe both the stomach and the soul.” Thanks were given to the ever present Roberto and the handful of ladies who worked tirelessly to make this meal a great triumph for our 13 diners. diVino Bangkok, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor 16, Sukhumvit 55 Rd. Tel: 02 714 8723 www.divinobkk.com

Gourmet

Dining|Valentine’s Day

Romance on a plate Valentine’s dining at a glance

Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok FIVE distinct dining experiences await lovebirds here. Enjoy an international dinner buffet at Chatuchak Café (B1,390++ per person); a three-course Italian special set dinner at Don Giovanni (B1,990++ per person); a five-course special set dinner at Blue Sky (B2,500++ per person); a kaiseiki special set dinner at Hagi (B1,150++ per person); or a Chinese set dinner at Dynasty

Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square

(B10,500++ for 10 persons). Available from 6.30pm-10.30pm. 1695 Phaholyothin Rd. ☎ 02 541 1234 Ext. 4178 : centarahotelsresorts. com/centaragrand/cglb

Dusit Thani Bangkok FROM Feb10-23, the hotel’s bakery and patisserie will prepare a bounty of decadent delights for lovers to spoil their better halves, including Marshmallow chocolate bars, Chocolate heart pralines, and much more. 946 Rama 4 Rd. ☎ 02 200 9000 Ext. 2577 : dusitthanibangkok.dusit.com

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AN extensive dinner buffet of European and Asian favourites will be available at The Square Restaurant (B1,300++ per person with a glass of sparkling wine). Alternatively head to Lok Wah Hin for a Chinese feast (starting at B600 per person). Throughout Feb, La Brioche the Deli will offer a wide selection of sweet strawberry treats starting at B80 per piece. 392/44 Siam Square Soi 6 ☎ 02 209 8888 : novotelbkk.com

Centara Grand at CentralWorld SAVOUR a “Seafood on Ice” themed buffet at Fifty-Five (B8,555++ per couple with free-flow Lombard Champagne); or a special five-course menu at RedSky (B14,555++ per couple with a glass of MUMM Champagne per person). Available from 6pm-11.30pm. 999/99 Rama I Rd. ☎ 02 100 6255 : centarahotelsresorts.com/cgcw/

Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Bangkok

Four Points By Sheraton Bangkok

LUCE Italian Restaurant is offering a five-course set dinner menu created especially for lovers. Highlights include Carpaccio of Canadian Lobster marinated in fresh thyme served with mini Gnocco fritto; Chef’s special risotto; and Sicilian cannoli with honeydew-ricotta cream. B5,950 per couple.

AL fresco rooftop venue amBAR is offering a seafood appetizer platter followed by a full buffet line (complete with desserts and a chocolate fountain) for B4,500 per couple with a free bottle of wine and an exclusive box of chocolates. Live music throughout the night.

33/1 South Sathorn Rd. ☎ 02 210 8100 : eastingrandsathorn.com

4 Sukhumvit 15 ☎ 02 309 3201 : fourpointsbangkoksukhumvit.com

Northgate Ratchayothin Serviced Residence

Novotel Bangkok Bangna VISIT The Square for an extensive international dinner buffet and lovethemed cocktails (B1,090++ per person with a complimentary romantic gift). Highlights include Wellington beef and mustard, Salmon with pesto cream, Crème brûlée, and much more.

THROUGHOUT Feb, Two Forty Eight Café & Bar will offer a four-course set dinner (6pm-10pm) priced just 999++ per couple with two glasses of wine (B599++ for food only). Menu highlights include Seared tuna saku with sautéed Japanese mushroom; and Pan-fried salmon fillet (or Roasted pork tenderloin) with mash potato, spinach and porcini cream sauce. 248 Ratchadapisek Rd. ☎ 02 939 7949 : northgatebangkok.com

333 Srinakarin Rd. ☎ 02 366 0505 : novotelbangkokbangna.com

JW Marriott Bangkok RELISH an intimate four-course dinner at Manhattan Bar & Studio (exclusive to only 10 couples at B3,000++ with a complimentary glass of bubbles); or a lavish five-course menu at New York Steakhouse (B8,600++ per couple). 4 Sukhumvit Rd., Soi 2. ☎ 02 656 7700 : marriott.com

Windsor Suites Hotel WINDSOR Suites Café will serves a Valentine’s buffet dinner for B699++ per person. Every couple receives a free chocolate gift. 10/1 Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 262 1234 : windsorsuiteshotel.com

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Dining|Valentine’s Day Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit THE hotel’s chic Parisian-inspired apartment, L’Appart, will offer an intimate four-course gourmet wine dinner for B3,999 per person (or dine a la carte from B450 per dish). Enjoy your meal in the open kitchen or out on the expansive terrace offering panoramic views of Bangkok.

Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers FOUR romantic dining experiences are on offer here. Enjoy an international and BBQ dinner buffet at Feast (B4,000 per couple); a Western set dinner with river views at Sambal Bar & Grill (B3,500 per couple); an authentic Italian set dinner at Giorgio’s (B3,500 per couple); or a Royal Thai set dinner at Thara Thong (B3,200 per couple). Each couple will receive two glasses of Kir Royale and a rose. 2 Captain Bush Lane, New Rd. ☎ 02 266 9214 : royalorchidsheraton.com

Pathumwan Princess Hotel ALL this month, Loop Italian Restaurant will offer unique Italian dishes, each with a delicate hint of chocolate, including Braised short ribs glazed with coffee and chocolate, Grilled prawns wrapped with Parma ham and served with chocolate fettuccine, and chocolate infused salami. Available daily 11am-10.30pm. If your tastes are more local, head to Citi Bistro for its Thai buffet at just B1,290 per person. 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Road ☎ 02 216 3700 ext.20818 : pprincesshotel.com

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189 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 13-15 ☎ 02 126 9999 : soﬁtel.com

Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit

Riva Surya Bangkok

A THREE-course set dinner at Mauve Restaurant is B2,200 per person inclusive of one free bottle of sparkling wine and a cocktail. Menu highlights include Crab mango and avocado with citrus vinaigrette; and Roasted beef fillet with red wine.

A FIVE-course set dinner with special cocktails and a gift for the ladies will be available at babble&rum for B6,000 per couple (food only). Add B2,000 per couple for sparkling wine, wine, and sangria.

23/2-3 Sukhumvit 13 ☎ 02 645 4999 : radisson.com/bangkokth_sukhumvit

23 Phra Arthit Rd. ☎ 02 633 5000 : rivasuryabangkok.com

Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok INDULGE in a 12-course Thai-inspired menu at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin (B5,999+ per person with a glass of Moët & Chandon Imperial Rosé Champagne); or a special eight-course dinner at Brasserie Europa (B9,999+ per couple inclusive of two glasses of Moët & Chandon Imperial Rosé Champagne). An afternoon tea set is also available at Hanumarn Bar for B800+ per set. 991/9 Rama I Rd. ☎ 02 162 9000 : kempinskibangkok.com

Experience Italian cuisine at its best Enjoy exquisite dishes cooked with care and presented with flair by Chef Stefano Merlo- a two-times champion of Iron Chef Thailand! Authentic flavours guaranteed Top quality imported ingredients bring the real taste of Italy to Bangkok Superb atmosphere Our wonderfully renovated house has a real homely ambience

39 Sukhumvit soi 27 north klongtoey Bangkok 10110 Tel: 02 258 4386

Email: enotecabangkok@gmail.com www.enotecabangkok.com

Feature

Insight|Memory lane

Above left: A recent picture of Roy with his son. Above: Roy in 1961, when he was Adver tising manager of TH AI

The British adman who persuaded the world to fly THAI 48

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On three occasions over a 20-year period beginning in 1960, Roy Howard headed THAI Airways International’s advertising department. Many remember these years as THAI’s golden era, when it reigned supreme amongst Asia’s airlines. Now retired and living once again in Bangkok after Australia and Hong Kong, Roy recalls his work at THAI, and the many people and events that shaped his life and the airline’s development

AI’s ‘Smooth as

rtisement for TH

ve The launch ad

Silk’ campaign

A CHANCE interview brought me to Bangkok in 1959, and the launch of THAI the following year was the start of a 32-year association with the airline. It also gave me the opportunity to live and work in Thailand before it was overrun by tourists, and Bangkok was turned from a tranquil city of one-million friendly people, interlaced with lotus-filled klongs, into a concrete jungle of more than eight million hustling and bustling souls. When I disembarked at Bangkok airport in June, 1959, I was greeted by my boss, an extremely large woman with a loud Australian accent, who proceeded to cram both of us into a small Austin taxi before heading to the city. This was Elma Kelly, the founder and chairman of Cathay Advertising, which at the time was one of the largest and most aggressive advertising agencies in Asia. The Cathay office was located on Patpong Road, on the top floor of the Gestetner building. There, a staff of approximately 30 created advertising in Thai, Chinese and English languages for a wide range of consumer and travel-related products. In

1959, all the ad agencies in Bangkok, and indeed throughout most of Asia, were run by expatriates. My work at Cathay was interesting, involving client liaison across a wide range of products. One of the clients was the Louis T. Leonowens import company, originally established by the son of Anna Leonowens, tutor to King Chulalongkorn and immortalised in Anna and the King of Siam. We also handled a number of airlines, and at the end of 1959, we were awarded the job of launching a brand-new airline – THAI Airways International. THAI was a joint venture between the Thai government and Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS), and initially operated with three DC-6Bs provided by SAS. The management of THAI International consisted mainly of SAS executives, with a Thai chairman and managing director recruited from the Royal Thai Air Force. The cabin staff members were Thai, with Scandinavian supervisors, and some pilots and co-pilots were recruited from the RTAF. As the airline was to commence flights to nine cities throughout Asia on 1st May, 1960, we also prepared advertising to run in the other destination countries. My boss, who was not married, had a Chinese girlfriend called So So Li. In order to provide for her future, he opened a bar directly opposite our agency called The Red Door. This, one of the first bars on Patpong Road, had achieved a certain notoriety as its female barstaff members were virtually unbeatable at liar dice! The Red Door was also patronised by a group of hard-drinking Americans who, after a few drinks, would confess that they were Air America pilots engaged in flying clandestine missions over Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. These men were paid big bucks, but had no official recognition if they failed to return from their missions – which did sometimes happen. A year after I arrived in Bangkok, my boss, John Weller, left for three months’ home leave, which was the normal arrangement for expatriates. I took over as acting manager, but quickly ran foul of Peter Jamieson, the area managing director from Cathay, Hong Kong, who expected me to do two jobs without any increase in salary.

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Feature

Insight|Memory lane ell gift to Roy in 1968.

Neils Lumholdt presents a farew

Neils Lum holdt and R exchange at THAI’s obin Dannhorn in a annual M AP meetin friendly g 1983.

My client at THAI International, Chris Hundrup, heard about my problems and offered me the job of advertising manager, with full expatriate conditions. These included housing and car allowances, home leave, travel perks and a substantial increase in salary. This I accepted, and I joined THAI International in September, 1960, four months after the airline commenced regional operations. From this date, we dispensed with Cathay Advertising, much to the ire of Jamieson, and placed our advertising direct with the media. Helping to create the image for a new airline was an exciting experience. My earlier training in the UK and Canada in production, media and research all came in handy when planning our international ad campaigns. At the time that I joined THAI, the head office was being renovated, and we therefore operated out of the East Asiatic Co. premises next to the Oriental Hotel. As soon as the new premises were completed, we moved to the small, two-storey building on New Road.

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e in Bangkok

Roy’s first hom

While I was pursuing my new career, my wife Pauline had returned to her original profession of schoolteacher. Starting at Mrs. Clayton’s Junior School, she eventually became headmistress of the British School in Bangkok. My promotion at THAI meant that we could afford to rent a bigger and better house, with two servants, and we decided that it was time to start a family. After a period of uncertainty, Pauline gave birth to our first son, Marc, in December 1961. Marc was delivered at the Bangkok Nursing Home by Dr. Gertie Ettinger, an Austrian Jewish refugee, who, together with her husband, Egon, also a doctor, had arrived in Bangkok before the war and had proceeded to look after many European expatriates. For recreation, we joined the Royal Bangkok Sports Club located in the centre of town. It offered excellent facilities ranging from tennis and squash to swimming and an 18-hole golf course. I would quite often have lunch by the pool and chat with Jim Thompson, who mysteriously vanished a few years later while on holiday in Malaysia.

y interest in jazz brought me into contact with a number of fellow enthusiasts, and eventually led to the setting up of a Bangkok Jazz Society. At the centre of this group was Joe Bunnag, the wealthy owner of the Trocadero Hotel, which was frequently the venue where we gathered to listen to recorded jazz. Other members included John Hunter, an account executive from Grant Advertising who went on to become one of the most powerful executives at Coca-Cola in Atlanta, and Lucky Thomson, a senior Australian Army officer, who was an accomplished musician. In early 1962, I was approached by the owner of a large Australian advertising agency regarding a move to Hong Kong. Fortune Advertising handled the Cathay Pacific Airways account throughout Asia, and because of the close relationship between THAI and Cathay Pacific, and THAI’s growing need for a range of advertising agency services throughout the region, it was proposed that Fortune set up a branch in Bangkok to handle THAI. I was keen to explore a new market, and although Pauline would have preferred to remain in Bangkok, I accepted the job of assistant managing director at Fortune, Hong Kong, and we made the move in April, 1962. While based in Hong Kong, I continued to handle the local THAI international account, and I maintained contact with my former colleagues at the THAI head office. By late 1963, we started to hear rumours from Bangkok that THAI was not happy with the way the account was being handled, and there was a strong possibility that we could lose it. The owner of Fortune, Ken Landell-Jones, told me to hop on a plane and find out what was happening. I arrived at the Bangkok Fortune office at 8.00 a.m. the next day, unannounced, to find the doors locked and no sign of life. Around 9.30 a.m., one or two employees drifted in. Of the manager, there was absolutely no sign. On enquiring of his whereabouts, I was told that he rarely came to the office, and might be found at one of the bars on Patpong Road. Later that day I had a meeting with the marketing director of THAI, during which it was made clear that unless management changes at Fortune were quickly made, the business would go elsewhere. A similar story also came from other Fortune clients. When this was relayed to Landell-Jones, I was asked to take over the job of managing director and to salvage what I could. After a brief return to Hong Kong to pack up our belongings, the family and I returned to Bangkok where we were fortunate to rent a large, Tudor-style house set in a spacious garden, just minutes away from the office. We managed to resume a close relationship with THAI, reporting to the new marketing director, a charming and talented Danish gentleman called Neils Lumholdt. Neils was the son of the publisher of one of Denmark’s leading newspapers, who had been a leading figure in the Resistance during the Second World War. Neils was sent to America for his university education: there he developed a lifelong passion for jazz, and played double bass in a jazz group. He spoke at least seven languages fluently, including Thai and Italian.

The initial THAI fleet of DC-6Bs had been augmented with Convair Coronado 990s on loan from SAS and Swissair. With its rapid expansion throughout Asia, THAI now decided to introduce Caravelle aircraft to its fleet, and Fortune was assigned to handle this campaign. A new creative director joined us from Australia, and although somewhat corny in retrospect, the ensuing campaign was successful in meeting its objectives. As Fortune was given more and more work by THAI, we also managed to pick up several new accounts so that, by 1965, Fortune was the second largest agency in Thailand behind the American agency Grant Advertising. A number of international agencies were operating in Thailand at this time, including Cathay, Marklin and Groarke Advertising. This last agency was run by a frequently inebriated Irishman, who as one of the first to operate an advertising agency in Bangkok after the Second World War, had held, at one time or another, most of the major national accounts. Many of these had been lost as a result of Groarke becoming drunk and abusive to his clients. The quality of advertising in Thailand improved as the years went by, but there was no shortage of bizarre interpretations to keep us amused. One such was a black-and-white press ad promoting the pharmaceutical, Preparation H. This consisted of a drawing of a gentleman with his backside on fire, and the promise that Preparation H would quell the flames! Another full-page ad, this time in full colour, promoted Red Cock Thai whisky. It featured a photograph of a beautiful Thai girl reclining beneath a banner headline which stated, in English, “Happiness is a Red Cock.” Along similar lines was a poster for Guinness Stout. Throughout Asia, Guinness Stout is promoted as a tonic for nursing mothers. In Thailand, this was extended to include fathers, or in this particular case, wouldbe fathers. The poster featured a voluptuous and scantily clad actress of some note, with a slogan in Thai which translated as “Guinness keeps your pecker up.” There is no record of the reaction from Dublin! THAI continued to expand at a steady pace. By 1965, the airline was planning new routes to Bali and Kathmandu, plus other destinations, which would eventually result in it providing the most extensive airline network in the east Asia region. I was approached by THAI at this point, for the second time, to return as advertising manager with expanded responsibilities – and an attractive salary and benefits package. The offer to return to THAI with all its perks was very tempting, especially in view of my growing family, and I therefore made the decision to rejoin the airline at the end of 1965. During the three-and-a-half years that I had been with Fortune, THAI had grown rapidly, and with the introduction of a fleet of Caravelles and a further expansion of routes, the head office was filled to overflowing. I therefore set up my new advertising department in leased premises alongside the General Post Office on New Road. Also in our leased building was the public relations depart-

A full-page ad promoted Red Cock Thai whisky. It featured a photograph of a Thai girl reclining beneath a banner headline which stated, in English, “Happiness is a Red Cock.”

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Feature

Insight|Memory lane

ment, run by a charming lady by the name of Mrs Chitdee Rangavara. She was soon joined by a PR consultant from London named Robin Dannhorn, who was seconded to THAI by Grant Advertising. hitdee Rangareva was an unusual Thai lady. She was remarkably outspoken, having spent some years in Australia working for the Thai language channel of the Australian Broadcasting Corporation. She was also lots of fun to be with. Assisting Mrs Chitdee was a serious young Englishman, Robin Dannhorn, who had previously worked at the Financial Times in London. He arrived in Bangkok with his wife and two young children. With his pale complexion, conservative suits and horn-rimmed glasses, Robin looked completely out of place in exotic Thailand, but that was soon to change! Through Bob Udick, the editor of the Bangkok World newspaper, I also met an American writer named Harold Stephens. He was halfway through driving a Toyota Land Cruiser 42,000 miles around the world, and was looking for a company to sponsor a series of travel articles. This I agreed to do, little realising that Steve would eventually write more than 3,000 articles for the Bangkok World and the Bangkok Post. We selected Grant Advertising as our regional agency, and I worked closely with their regional vice-president, Michael Brierley, who was based in Singapore. Back at the head office, one of my major jobs was to create a manual which would be used by all THAI offices

or d by Walter Land ous logo, designe all Left: THAI’s fam e “jumpee,” a sm am kn nic the ed rn little & Associates, ea slang word for a tle gen the o als Thai flower, and l of the boy’s winky! one that’s typica of Roy’s ads, but caused ich wh y, isk Below: Not one Wh is from Red Cock gan. slo ck’ Co d Re times. This one a its ‘Happiness is quite a stir with

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to standardise the way in which we presented ourselves to the public. This extended all the way from ticket-office signage, to stationery, baggage labels, and even how to handle correspondence in English. Given the wide range of cultures, languages and customs in the THAI network, this standardisation was critical if we were to be seen as a reliable international airline. Most of my flights around the region took place during the week, which meant that I could spend the weekends at home. On Saturdays, we would quite often take Marc and Rachel down to the seaside resort of Pattaya. There, we rented a beachside bungalow, joined the Royal Varuna Yacht Club and learnt to sail an Enterprise dinghy. It was at the Varuna Club that we observed the polygamous nature of Thai life, which in spite of claims to have given way to monogamy, still pervaded all strata of Thai society. A popular sailor at the club was Prince Bira, who had enjoyed great success in Europe as a racing-car driver. While Prince Bira was competing in his Enterprise dinghy (and frequently winning), his three wives would enjoy each other’s company on the club house verandah. Only non-Thais were in any way surprised at this relationship. Towards the end of 1966, Pauline announced that she was pregnant again, and our second son, Andrew, was born at the Bangkok Nursing Home on 27th June, 1967. Another event occurred in 1967 which caused us much sadness. On a Saturday evening, we attended a dinner hosted by one of the Scandinavian executives, at which my boss, Neils Lumholdt, and my assistant, Roendej, were present, together with an American photographer, Pete Peterson, and his beautiful Swedish assistant, Inge-Marie.

e had arranged an air-to-air photography session for the following morning, for which Pete Peterson and Inge-Marie would fly in an RTAF Beechcraft in order to photograph one of our new Caravelles. My assistant was due to join the flight to supervise the work, and to liaise with the Thai airforce pilot. Neils and I discussed joining the flight, but as the evening wore on, we both decided not to go. The next day, I received a phone call. I was told that, in trying to get closer to the Caravelle, the Beechcraft had collided with the larger aircraft, losing a wing in the process. This resulted in the death of all our friends. Ironically, the Caravelle was being piloted by Roendej’s cousin, a senior captain called Jothin Pamon-Montri, who, with great skill, managed to land the damaged Caravelle. He went on to become a senior vice-president at THAI. After the birth of Andy, Pauline and I hit a rough patch in our marriage, and she indicated that she would like to return to live in England. With three small children, she was already planning ahead for their education and did not want to have to send them away – a common occurrence with so many expatriates. It was agreed that I would continue with my work at THAI, which I enjoyed, and Pauline and the children moved to Cornwall. Neils subsequently offered to share his house with me, which I gladly accepted. There followed a hectic period of some months, which was entertaining, but which did my liver very little good, I suspect. Neils loved to party, and our evening excursions would frequently end up at Klongtoi, the dock area, where crews from Scandinavian ships drank themselves into oblivion. We also patronised a restaurant called The Two Vikings. It was run by two gay, former SAS stewards, and served wonderful gravlax and ice-cold aquavit. Under the guidance of Neils, THAI had grown to become one of the largest airlines in Asia, and one of the most profitable.

Along with some truly memorable advertising during the 1980s, THAI also came up with the occasional “controversial” campaign, remembers Roy.

In 1967, we launched the first jet service to Bali, which up to that time had been mainly served by the occasional cruise liner. Prior to the start of this new service, I visited this island paradise, with its beautiful women and unique works of art. In 1968, we introduced the first jet service to Kathmandu. The expansion of our routenet meant that we needed longer-range aircraft. Orders were therefore placed with the McDonnell Douglas Corporation for new DC8 aircraft. My work at THAI continued to be interesting and rewarding, but I was missing my children, in spite of frequent trips back to the UK. In late 1968, I decided to resign from THAI and look for a job in England. Although I had moved to the other side of the world, I was still involved with the airline. As the director of a large UK ad agency, THAI had very kindly given me the responsibility for its advertising in the UK. In 1973, THAI started DC8-33 flights to Copenhagen, followed by London, Paris and Frankfurt. I became more heavily involved with the promotion of THAI in Europe, and met with Neils Lumholdt on a regular basis. Around mid-1975, Neils invited me to lunch and asked if I would be interested in returning to the THAI head office as marketing development manager.

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Feature

Insight|Memory lane

n my arrival in Bangkok, I was impressed with the growth of THAI, which had recently undergone a complete corporate-identity facelift created by Walter Landor & Associates. The sales director of THAI, Chatrachai Bunya-Ananta, suggested that I prepare a reorganisation plan and operating budget for the marketing development department, which I completed in two days. To my surprise, the plan and budget were approved, and I was offered the job to start as soon as possible. This marked the third time that I would be employed by THAI, which probably stands as a record, as the company policy was not to employ anyone more than once. One of my first jobs was to fire the agency and take all of their work in-house. I also terminated the existing contract for THAI’s in-flight magazine, Sawasdee, which we had originally created in the mid-1960s as an in-house publication. Working together with THAI’s public relations director, Khun Chitdee, we reassigned editorial and art direction responsibilities to a team in Hong Kong, while taking charge of the advertising sales and production. To handle the significant increase in workload, I recruited a number of staff from advertising agencies in Bangkok. My assistant was Sam Peck, a laid-back Californian who had joined THAI from the SAS organisation in the USA. Sam was a talented photographer who made frequent trips around the THAI network, to add to our newly created photo files. He also added a number of attractive Thai air hostesses to his dating list, as he was a good-looking and charming man. I also recruited Sommit Barpuyawart, who had recently returned from the UK, as my Art director. Having dispensed with the services of our previous advertising agency, we needed to find a new creative team to produce top-quality campaigns to be placed by our in-house media department. As an international airline, we were not restricted to Bangkok, and I therefore started to research agencies in Europe, the USA, Asia and Australia. My final recommendation came down to two agencies in Sydney, and it was decided to appoint the relatively new agency of Magnus, Nankervis & Curl. When I left THAI in 1968, our advertising was strongly focused on the unique Thai brand of in-flight service, which was, rightly, judged to be the best in Asia. Following my departure, Neils decided to adopt a trendier advertising approach, with the slogan Get Into It, which promoted the exciting new destinations in the THAI network and the expanded fleet of new aircraft. Throughout the ’60s, Cathay Pacific was the leading airline in southern Asia, but THAI undoubtedly had the best reputation for in-flight food and service. At this time, Malaysian and Singapore Airlines had experimented with a joint venture, which ultimately failed, but it was competition from within Thailand which allowed Singapore Airlines to assume the dominant position in the region. Prince Nicky Varanond, chief pilot at THAI, decided to launch a competitive airline named Air Siam. Having secured

influential backers and leased Airbus equipment, Air Siam, with discounted fares, proceeded to engage THAI in a destructive battle for air-traffic rights. This confrontation eventually led to a total strike by THAI staff, and Air Siam subsequently self-destructed. While this battle was consuming the energies of the THAI management, Singapore Airlines, with strong backing from the Singapore government, stormed ahead of THAI to assume the premier position among the world’s airlines. Air Siam collapsed shortly after I returned to THAI, and my advertising recommendation to Neils Lumholdt was to get back to the core values which had proven to be so successful for THAI in the past. With the assistance of Trevor Harrison, a research consultant for Magnus, Nankervis & Curl, we conducted a number of focus groups in Asia and Australia, to determine the factors which most influenced air travellers when selecting an airline. Not surprisingly, in-flight service emerged as an important factor with members of these groups. Armed with this information, John Nankervis and Ted Curl, together with their creative teams, created a campaign built around the theme Smooth as Silk, which proved to be highly effective in projecting THAI as a leader in inflight service and efficiency. A major development for THAI was the introduction of Boeing 747 jumbo jets in 1979 and 1980. The campaign to launch THAI’s Jumbos provided many opportunities to link Thailand’s revered animals in humorous ways. I met many interesting people during my years in Thailand, one of whom was the Swiss artist Theo Meier. The son of a banker, he had left Switzerland in 1932 with an easel on his back, to travel and paint in the South Seas and Asia. He eventually settled in Bali before the war, at a time when few people knew of this island paradise with its beautiful, bare-breasted women and man-made rice terraces. Theo stayed in Bali for 22 years, painting wonderful portraits and landscapes. He also became an authority on Balinese music. After the downfall of President Sukarno, Theo decided to move to Chiang Mai, where I was introduced to him and his new Thai wife, Laiad. In 1982, I paused to consider my options for the future. Back in 1977, the Thai partners had bought out the remaining shares in THAI from SAS, and gradually over the intervening years, the European executives had been replaced by Thai managers. My own position in THAI was not affected by these changes, but I could visualise a time when I would be increasingly isolated in a company which now employed more than 8,000 Thai personnel. In essence, I proposed that we set up a new advertising agency, based in Hong Kong, to handle THAI’s worldwide creative and production work. I had discussed this with my boss, Chatrachai Bunya-Ananta, and although he could not make an absolute commitment, I considered it a risk worth taking. Hence, we agreed to set up MNC & Howard, and I resigned from THAI – for the third and last time! MNC & Howard was appointed to handle THAI’s advertising, which continued until 1995, while a sister company produced Sawasdee magazine for the same period.

I would quite often have lunch by the pool and chat with Jim Thompson, who mysteriously vanished a few years later while on holiday in Malaysia.

TheBigchilli

Feature

Insight|Fake IDs

fake

Khao San’s documents industry

Counterfeit ID cards for press, students, airline crews, driving licenses, university diplomas and even the FBI are sold openly on Bangkok’s famous tourist centre. How do the vendors get away with it? Maxmilian Wechsler finds out

THAILAND may be the only country in the world where counterfeit documents are openly displayed for sale on the street. Along Khao San Road in Bangkok are around a dozen stalls – the first opposite Chana Songkhram police station, under a giant screen showing two police patrolmen and a sign saying “24-Hour Protection and Services” – offering a huge variety of fake identity cards and other documents. The documents include paper and plastic ID cards for press, students, cabin crews of major airlines, Interpol, the US Federal Bureau of Investigation and Drug Enforcement Administration, as well as citizenship and driving licenses. There are also diplomas and certificates identifying the bearer as graduating from any of a number of prestigious universities, mostly in Australia, the United Kingdom and the United States. The stalls offering counterfeit documents blend effortlessly into the pandemonium of Khao San Road, best known as a haven for backpackers in Southeast Asia, with its cheap hotels, guesthouses, internet cafes, restaurants, travel agencies and tattoo parlors. It is nothing new to find these stalls among the other vendors selling a tremendous variety of merchandise along the street and connecting narrow alleyways; the sale of counterfeit documents has been plainly obvious in the area for over a decade.

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What has changed is that the bogus documents on offer and the places selling them have increased significantly over the years and the illegal trade is more out in the open than ever. Reports in the international media, including on CNN, have not slowed down the trade and in fact may have given it a boost through advertising since no action is ever taken by the police or other authorities. “Every time their criminal activities are exposed, the sellers and people behind the racket are encouraged and release more IDs and documents, and their displays are getting bigger as well,” said a policeman who agreed to talk to on condition of anonymity. The publicity has attracted customers from abroad who come to Khao San Road after collecting orders from people in their respective countries, according to several vendors of counterfeit documents. It is believed that the trade started in Thailand more than 30 years ago with student cards sold by travel agencies near the Malaysia Hotel. The customers used them to buy discounted airline tickets. Student cards, and later press cards, were used in the 1980s as supporting documents for stolen travellers’ cheques and credit cards. These days, to order a counterfeit ID or other document is

very easy. Just select the one you want shown on display or from a catalogue at a stall, give the seller your photo, write down the personal information you want to appear on the document, put your signature on the piece of paper, pay a 50 percent deposit on the agreed price and the counterfeit is delivered within about an hour, wherever you like. If you don’t have a photo, the seller will take you to one of several photo shops on the street. Current prices are about 300 baht (US$ 13) for a paper ID, 800 baht for a plastic ID and 2,500 baht for a university diploma. You can get an ID made under any name and use any photo you wish. To find out how these operations work on Khao San Road, a few years ago I arranged, with the help of a foreign woman in Bangkok, to have an ID card made for the German left-wing militant and co-founder of the Red Army Faction, Ulrike Marie Meinhof, who was jailed in 1972. Another order I placed was for a university certificate for Vladimir I. Lenin, founder of the Bolshevik Party and first leader of the Soviet Union. Both orders were filled with authentic photos supplied by myself without any problem.

According to another Thai police officer, who also wished to keep his name disclosed and who works with colleagues from foreign intelligence and police agencies, they [the visiting officers] are utterly shocked when they visit Khao San and see the stalls with samples of counterfeit IDs and other documents. Many foreign tourists are also surprised to see merchandise openly displayed. The police officer confirmed that these operations are illegal in Thailand and that the sellers could be arrested and all merchandise seized, but added that problems arise when trying to supply proof for the prosecutor and the court that the documents are fake. “With hundreds of different counterfeited documents offered, it would be very difficult and costly to produce such evidence. The genuine issuer of the documents which have been counterfeited [be it a foreign government agency, business or university] would have to come here, make a complaint with the police and certify that the item seized is a counterfeit. No one will go to the trouble and expense of flying here over one or a few fake documents. “After the procedure is explained to the foreign police

If an official document such as a driving licence is counterfeited, Section 265 stipulates a penalty of six months to five years in jail and a fine of one thousand to ten thousand baht.

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Feature

Insight|Fake IDs

liaisons, they agree that it’s not worth it if the genuine issuers don’t cooperate, because in the end the police would have to return the counterfeits to the person arrested and let them go free, and also face the prospect of being sued for an unlawful arrest,” the policeman said. He explained why the counterfeit documents are sold only on Khao San Road and not in other tourist areas of Bangkok: “Khao San is a centre for foreign backpackers who are more likely to look for counterfeits than, for example, wealthier tourists who visit Silom or Sukhumvit. “In the past, the counterfeit IDs were bought on Khao San Road by tourists who viewed them mostly as amusing souvenirs. But later the news spread around the world that they were available and reasonably authentic in appearance, so they attracted more customers, including those wishing to use them to commit various crimes. “The second reason why they are found only on Khao San Road is logistics. The photo shops and the places where the documents are actually produced are nearby and protected – they are in on the scam. Everything is well-organized.” The policeman said that the best way to stamp out the trade would be to raid locations where the documents and the equipment used to make them are stored, and seize them. This could be possible, he continued, by making several purchases through an informant and watching what happens next. Hopefully it would lead the police to the operations centre and the masterminds. “But then we would still have to follow the procedure I

described earlier,” the policeman said, and then brought up another problem: “My unit has 18 cases pending involving foreigners, and in these cases we have around 5,000 pages of documents that need to be translated to Thai, as is required by the law. To find a translator who can do the job is not easy. “Documents are in Spanish, German and other languages. Normally a good translator will charge 1,000 baht per page. It isn’t easy to find good translators for languages other than English, and even if we find them we can’t afford to pay them.” The police officer also said that the relevant laws are decades old and obsolete, with many loopholes. He suggested the laws should be amended. The laws which cover counterfeit documents are in sections 264 and 265 of the BE 2499 (1958) Thai Penal Code. Section 264 stipulates that counterfeiting or alteration of documents is a criminal offence punishable by imprisonment not exceeding three years or a fine not exceeding six thousand baht. If an official document such as a driving licence is counterfeited, Section 265 stipulates a penalty of six months to five years in jail and a fine of one thousand to ten thousand baht.

The policeman pointed out that the Khao San vendors sell only foreign counterfeits, not Thai ID cards or driving licenses, because if they did they would be arrested immediately, and they know it. With foreign documents they are safe. Their only fear seems to be publicity, although as yet this hasn’t hurt their operations either.

No photos allowed A recent trip to Khao San confirmed that the sellers of counterfeit IDs and other documents are still doing a good business out in the open. Stalls with huge displays of sample counterfeit documents are easy to find. However, after we started taking photos of the displays, vendors standing at the stalls started to shout: “No photo, no photo.” Some stalls were vacant until a potential customer approached to view the samples, at which point a vendor who was sitting or standing nearby came up to make a sales pitch. Several policemen from the nearby police station walked past the displays while we were there.

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One seller who didn’t like us taking photos attempted to shield the display, and said in good English: “You can’t take photos on this street.” “Call the police,” we replied. After that another nearby vendor quickly carried his display to a local shop but returned after a few minutes. Before we started taking photos an elderly male vendor told us, “I don’t do passports because this is too dangerous. Some Thais are doing this with foreigners. I can introduce you to them if you like.” The man said he’d been selling fake documents for many years and has many customers who call him before arriving in Thailand to place their order. Some send photos and personal information to him through the mail. “Some customers order many IDs,” he said, adding that business is good but there are too many people now selling on the street. He said he meets his customers at their hotel, guesthouse or restaurant to discuss business.

Tools of terror

While counterfeit IDs are souvenirs and novelty items for some, the Thai policeman and foreign police liaison warned that they have been used by criminals to commit fraud and even terrorist activities in Thailand and especially overseas. “Phony IDs, coupled with stolen and altered or forged passports are being used by terrorists to gain access to the European Union and other countries. We are really concerned about this matter. We have evidence, and so do the Thai authorities,” the foreign policeman said. “Criminals and terrorists know they can go to Khao San Road and get a good quality counterfeit document quickly. The quality of the fakes is getting better and the activity represents a serious threat to the security of many countries,” the liaison officer said. “Criminals are looking for fake supporting documents because passports of most countries are pretty sophisticated and difficult to alter, especially to exchange the photograph of the original owner.” The foreign liaison said that the number of passports reported stolen from foreigners living around the Khao San Road area has been quite high for years. This applies mostly to passports from EU countries, the liaison said, adding that tourists sometimes sell their passports so they can stay longer in Thailand. “Stolen or bought passports obtained in Thailand – with a corroborating counterfeit ID, like a driving license – make it possible to enter an EU country. The holder of the altered passport must make sure they don’t enter the country the passport was issued in because its theft would have been reported to that country’s authorities. “Anyone who steals a passport in Bangkok can then freely travel through all the other 25 Schengen countries. No visa between these countries is required and it’s not necessary to show a passport while crossing to a different Schengen country, only a form of ID is enough. Again, the EU country where the stolen passport originated must be avoided,” the liaison officer said. “It has been uncovered that citizens of one Persian Gulf country have been buying stolen passports, mainly of EU countries, in order to enter them easily. They have been also acquiring supporting documents. The people actually travelling on stolen travel documents normally don’t buy them themselves. They have someone else do it for them – in Bangkok.” The officer said that some fake documents available on Khao San Road, such as driving licenses of some countries, aren’t replicates at all but a kind of “science fiction design” that doesn’t exist. However, authorities in some countries don’t have a clue what the originals look like, the liaison officer claimed.

Crackdown needed, says security expert STEVE Vickers is the CEO of Steve Vickers and Associates (www.stevevickersassociates.com), a security consulting company specializing in risk mitigation and corporate intelligence which operates across Asia. He is also a former commander of the Royal Hong Kong Police Criminal Intelligence Bureau and has extensive experience in investigating counterfeit currencies, money laundering and terrorist financing, and is an acknowledged authority in dealing with kidnappings. Mr Vickers, who is a regular contributor to CNN, Bloomberg TV and CNBC, gave his opinions about the fake ID cards being sold on Khao San Road in Bangkok. “I must say that I am quite surprised at the blatant manner in which these fake documents are sold on the streets,” said Mr Vickers, who believes the practice contributes to false applications for jobs [through counterfeit academic qualifications], bank loans, entry to restricted areas and other illegal activities. “I see many instances of identical documents being used in fraudulent bank loan applications or in attempts to obtain credit through false pretences or in support of other fraudulent activity. “The airline staff identification cards and US driving licenses which I saw are scarier, however. This is because in many US states all you need to buy a firearm is a current driving license. They may do a quick check, but in practice they often don’t, and the holder of the fake card walks away with a semi-automatic firearm in his hands. “Likewise, fake airline passes used in a third-world environment may facilitate access to restricted areas. “There can be no legitimate reason for these documents other than to support fraudulent activities or worse. While I fully understand that under Thai law it is difficult to take action without a complainant under trademark laws, the reality is that these documents are tools to be used by criminals in nefarious schemes and a crackdown is required. The situation has reached such proportions that many universities and colleges around the world are adopting barcodes and other technologies to uniquely identify their certificates. “The good news is that, from what I have seen, none of these documents would actually pass an electronic examination at an immigration point or a bank. However, they are more than sufficient to support bogus schemes. “It would be helpful if the Thai government would put a stop to such operations to avoid reputational damage as well as economic and actual physical damage,” Mr Vickers concluded.

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Expat WOMEN p Put your feet up and indulge

Stella McCartney’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection for adidas is sporty and stylish to boot. Page 66.

BWWG

Enjoy the latest slice of fiction from the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group Page 62

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Monsoon Midnights

Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

Special places in Bangkok, as experienced by the Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group

Dear reader, Welcome to ‘Monsoon Midnights’, a brand new series of stories by the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group. The story tellers of the BWWG come from all over the world but they all have a special place in this city, somewhere surprising, obscure and unexpected, as yet undiscovered. Follow us to these hidden places right here, month after month.

NIGHTFALL OVER BANGKOK THERE are some very high places in Bangkok. Places where you can look out and see the city like an interactive map beneath you. I see the night map in strings and clusters of coloured lights, a vast abstract pattern for a dress. Some places pulse in purple, neon green and red. Open-mouthed traps, they try to catch those that only spend a short time here, those that look for the exotic in easy-topurchase packets, something to remind them of a flash on the surface, something that can stand in for the journey without truly representing the place, this deeply secretive city under the moonlight. One such place draws my attention tonight. It’s not a pleasant place, but I will go there, for the sake of the story. But best to arrive in the style that the visitors of such places do. Some are just on holiday, but others are here for business, combining it with a bit of local flavour. I slip down the street in disguise, wearing the international uniform of a suit, I nod, just ever so slightly, and my car appears with its supercilious driver, both meticulously groomed to my suited standards. I turn my phone on and read the news, disdaining the view of the night time streets, protected from the presence of the moon and the sky, until we arrive at the destination, a noisy tourist market that stretches over several city blocks. I alight, throw my paper on the seat and walk away without a look. My driver will pick me up whenever I want him. Hesitating only a second, I enter… This month’s story teller, Ann Leander, waves to me from a corner stall. Holding up an armful of colourfully patterned scarves, she leans over and tries to whisper a secret, but it is inaudible in the din of the market. I have to approach much closer, and even then it takes an ear very close to her mouth, and her voice almost raised to a shout, to distinguish the words from the omnipresent din. But, who knows, a scream in here may well be more clandestine than a whisper elsewhere…

Sometimes You Lie By Ann Leander THE night air clings, moist and heavy, draining all energy. I forget the stress of the office and enjoy the caress of silk scarves on my face, incense in my nostrils. Shoppers finger jewellery and barter for trinkets. Then a man with a red turban, so out of place in this Bangkok market, blocks my way. ‘Want your fortune told, sir?’

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I try to ease past him. ‘Sir?’ The man holds out his business card. Cheap Chinese fairy-lights glisten on his skin, deepen the ruby folds of his turban ‘No thanks.’ I feign interest in dark wood carvings while I wait for my boss, Carla. She’s choosing gifts, but for whom I wonder? She may have a mother still, but not many friends. Not with her character…

‘Ask me any question sir.’ Why is this man so insistent? With tourists clogging the lanes, would it be hard to find someone more gullible? I glance back for Carla, mop my brow with my handkerchief. Christ, it’s hot. I need a drink. ‘About your past, sir? About your future?’ His eyes gleam, black and long lashed. ‘No!’ The voice of authority. Carla has caught up. ‘Are you deaf?’ she snarls at the man. She’s clutching a lamp she’s just bought and I fear she’ll slug him with it. ‘He said no, okay? Now hop it!’ I bristle. If I needed help from her I’d ask for it. The trouble is, Carla won’t let anyone forget who’s in charge, inside or outside the office. I swallow. I know my place. But the man isn’t intimidated by her. He stands his ground as I squeeze past him. intimidated Our eyes lock – is he mocking me? You wimp, you let a woman give you orders? I catch a whiff of sweet cumin. I flash to woman say: she’s NOT my wife! I really want him to know that. ‘You have a brother!’ ‘Oh, nice one,’ I mock. ‘Most people have brothers!’ ‘Called Daniel.’ I wheel round, startled. That’s really uncanny… Carla bulldozes me onwards, the lamp between my shoulder-blades. ‘Just tell him to get lost, for Christ’s sake!’ ‘Your father has passed on,’ the fortune teller persists, over the heads. I shrug. What’s unusual about losing your father at my age? ‘You’re here for business…you work with money.’ This is getting more than weird. I glance back at him. Is ‘accountant’ written on my forehead? Are the business shirt, the office-bound pallor, such give-aways? ‘Oh come on, Dave!’ Carla shoves me again as if I’m a three-year-old. Tourists are pooling behind us in the narrow alley. He’ll have to give up soon, I think, but no. ‘You are guarding a grave secret,’ he says Now I’m spooked – is nothing hidden from this man? When he threads his card through a curtain of beads, I almost snatch it from him. ‘Come to see me at my studio, sir. I will tell you more...’ I read the card in the dim market light: Rajit Singh, Clairvoyant. A telephone number. I slip the card into my damp breast-pocket, against my thumping heart. Now he turns to Carla and I watch with trepidation. Carla is no pushover – like her minions in the office, she’ll have him squirming before long. ‘Madame, you live in a cool climate?’ ‘Good guess,’ she sneers. ‘So what?’ ‘You have a cat.’ She crooks lacquered nails in his face, imitating claws. ‘Of course I have. I’m a witch, didn’t you know?’ She tosses her head, challenging him: ‘So, clever Dick, what’s its name, then?’ A flicker of confusion in his eyes: Do westerners give names to cats? ‘Ha!’ she snorts. ‘Fine fortune-teller you are.’ She barges

past me. ‘Come on! Let’s go, we’re wasting good shopping time.’ The man’s eyes dim – he’s met his match with Carla. I can identify with him. ‘Later maybe,’ I say, to sweeten the blow. ‘Not later! The time is now, sir.’ His tone urgent. ‘You are leaving Bangkok soon.’ Alarm bells go off in my head: has he been to my hotel? Is he checking me out? He turns back to Carla who is testing zips on handbags. ‘Madam, your cat’s name eludes me but your husband’s name is Charles...like your future King.’ I shoot a nervous glance to Carla. Her eyes have narrowed. She’s stunned to silence, a rare event. Her voice, when it comes, cuts like ice. ‘My husband is dead!’ The turban wobbles. ‘Dead?’ ‘You heard!’ She knocks him aside and marches on. The fortune teller catches her up. His eyes are wide. ‘But Madam...why do you say he is dead? ‘Because he is, you idiot! He drowned three years ago...’ His brow creases. ’No, madam, your husband is not dead.’ I brace for her reaction, the famed fury that will lash him to ribbons. But no. Her voice, barely audible, cracks when she speaks. ‘What do you mean, not dead?’ I shift in my tight shoes. The world seems to stop for a moment. But around us life goes on, the touts outside restaurants, the pedlars, the beggars... ‘But I see him, Madame.’ The clairvoyant’s voice is calm but firm. I sneak a glance at Carla. Her face is bloodless. I reach for her elbow to steer her away. She snatches her arm back. ‘Where?’ she rasps. ‘Where do you see him?’ Has he realised he’s gone too far? His eyes dart away along the busy Soi, at the cruising tuk-tuks, at the thin arms outside the girly bars. He gestures vaguely. ‘Everywhere, Madame. I feel his living presence…’ ‘Come, on!’ I say, taking charge at last. ‘This man is trouble. Let’s get out of here.’ Is this Carla, this pliant woman who allows me to lead her away? We enter a dimly-lit bar. It’s empty but for girls on stools, white legs emerging from skimpy dresses like stamens from a flower. They smile to dazzle but I hardly see them. We move outside and I order whisky. All around us, night noises in the heat, the buzz of generators, discordant music from doorways. A girl brings the whisky and two glasses. ‘Drink this,’ I tell Carla. Her hands tremble but she downs the whisky in a gulp. She looks meek for once, even docile. ’You know what’s scary, Dave? This isn’t the first time. Others have thought they’ve sighted Charles.’ I mumble something about his forgettable face, though I know she won’t buy that. Charles’ whipped-dog expression was one you’d remember forever. ‘Come on,’ I urge to distract her. ‘Let’s go for a bite, shall we?’ She closes her eyes. ‘Just get me back to the hotel.’ We walk along the Soi without speaking. Are we both on the lookout for the ruby-turban? Both wondering if we’ve imagined

There’ve been dark jokes in the office, but no-one really believed that Charles, meek, benign Charles could have engineered something so cruel.

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

it all? Both wondering if Charles, weak, henpecked Charles, could really be capable of…Or is it just me? At the hotel I watch the lift swallow up Carla then walk back into the night. *** She’s in the breakfast room on the 9th floor, stirring cold coffee. I sit down and she turns red-rimmed eyes on me: ‘I’m staying on, Dave. I’ve got to find that charlatan.’ I nod. I’d do the same in her place. But still I try to talk her out of it. ‘What good can that do, Carla?’ She lifts her blotchy face. ‘I need to know, one way or the other.’ She hasn’t touched her eggs. ‘But you said yourself, he’s a fake…’ Her skin is tight – has she slept at all? ‘But what if…?’ I know Carla, once she’s made up her mind. ‘Shall I stay on with you?’ I ask. ‘No. One of us has to get back to head office.’ But I stay. Back at the night market, I forge ‘They never found his body.’ ahead of her. I’ve got to find the Indian I wish I were somewhere else. he Bangkok Women’s Writers Group, before Carla does, warn him to keep She holds her cold glass to her founded in 2001, and led by Anette the can of worms closed. Beg him, mancheek. ‘Dave, tell me something.’ Pollner (who also writes the recurring to-man, to deny what he’d said about Her voice trembles, I think I know moon stories in this series), is where creCharles. My eyes sweep the tumbling what’s coming. ative women from all over the world meet to merchandise, searching for the man ‘Did you ever have suspicion…you workshop their writing in a supportive and in the turban, but he’s nowhere. Carla know, that he feigned it?’ inspiring environment. Many of our members catches up. My heart sinks. I swallow. There’ve been dark jokes are published and prize winning authors, but We hover near the carvings where in the office, and it’s true that living we are open to all women who are passionate we’d seen him the night before. She with Carla would have driven anyone to about writing, including complete beginners. asks a saleswoman: ‘Have you seen that suicide. But no one really believed that The BWWG has published a Thai English Indian man?’ Charles, meek, benign Charles could language bestseller, ‘Bangkok Blondes’ and Blank look. The woman holds up a have engineered something so cruel.’ various pamphlets. We regularly give readings dress. ‘Good price, Madam.’ Except me. Only I knew of his darker around town and have been part of internaCarla huffs with impatience. ‘No! The side. And only I knew how desperate tional festivals and cultural exchanges. Please fortune-teller, have you seen him?’ he was to get away from her. Carla is contact bkk_writers@yahoo.com for more The woman blinks, pinning me down; the question still information. uncomprehending. ‘Have your size, hangs in her red-rimmed eyes. ‘Do you This month’s storyteller is Ann Leander, Madame. Many colour...’ think he could have done it, Dave?’ who wrote her novel ‘It’s a Sister Thing’ while Carla curses and moves on. She I throw her a shocked look. ‘What repeats the question at every stall while living in Bangkok. Many of her articles and are you saying, Carla? I stop passers-by, flashing them the Sometimes you can’t believe what stories have appeared in international magacard. No one has seen him, no one even you know is true. zines. The most recent, ‘The Piano Teacher,’ remembers him. But the phone number! Sometimes you lie. was published by Momaya Press, London in With a surge of hope, I grab my phone. December 2013. A voice answers in English: This number Leaning back in the limousine, on my is not attributed. way home, I ignore the phone and the We slump down outside a swanky bar. Customers bask in neatly folded paper, already showing tomorrow’s date. I angle cooling jets of vapour. I close my eyes and soothe my own face my cheek uncomfortably against the darkly shaded window and in the mist. We order drinks. Carla doesn’t speak, just stares into manage to look into the face of the moon, sinking quickly towards her glass. At length she says: ‘Tell me Dave, what’s going on?’ the horizon, large and tinted an impossible blood red, for a What can I say? I take the easy way out. ‘He’s a nutter, Carla heartbeat, just before it falls from sight… Just forget him...’ I will see the moon over Bangkok again next month, when I visit She fixes me with her yes. ‘I can’t Dave. I need to know – am our next story teller, waiting for me already, somewhere, in an I a widow or am I an idiot? undiscovered corner of the city. I squirm. ‘Carla, what are you saying? He left a suicide note, Let me take you on that journey! remember?’

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Expat Women

Shopping|New products

Ria

Alisha

SHADES OF RETRO ■ HOLLYWOOD actresses of a bygone era are the inspiration for Oliver Peoples’ Resort/Spring 2014 sunglass collection. Our faves include the Ria, an oversized style similar to those favoured by Swedish pin-up girl Anita Ekberg; the Jacey, Jacey a glamorous frame based on the sunglasses worn by ’60s starlets such as Audrey Hepburn; and the Alisha, an ultra-feminine sunglass in an oversized, cat-eye lens shape which was inspired by the fashion of women like Catherine Deneuve and Romy Schneider. The new range is available now at leading eyewear stores in Thailand

Jacey

STREET BEATS ■ IF you want to listen to music when wandering around Bangkok’s boisterous streets but don’t want to shell out for noise-cancelling headphones, inner-ear is the only way to go. Avoid the tinny-sounding knock-offs touted by vendors, though, and give RBT Technology’s new Urbeats a whirl. Featuring exclusive technology from Beats by rap-master Dr. Dre, these durable compact earphones produce crisp and clear sound as well as delightfully rich bass, and come with tangle-free flat cable, a carry case, and three different sizes of ear buds. What’s more, the earphones have a built-in microphone which works with all types of smartphone, and they can even be used to control camera and music apps. B4,400. Available from Jaymart, iStudio, Life, PowerBuy, Munkong Gadget and leading stores countrywide. www.facebook.com/beatsthailand

Talking

Shop Hot products and stores demanding your attention

KISS FOR A CAUSE ■ FANS of flamboyant American rockers

KISS should head to the Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok this month. In support of the City of Hope treatment and research center, the popular rock and roll dining venue is offering a limited edition KISS Signature Series Pin (B590) and a KISS signature series T-shirt (B1,200), the latter of which features an image of the current band members alongside their signatures. Help support the cause on social media with the hashtag #HardRockgetsKISSed. Siam Square Soi 11 Tel: 02 658 4090-3 www.facebook.com/hardrockbangkok

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STELLA LOOKS FROM ADIDAS ■ MADE with a real emphasis on sustainability, including the use of organic cotton and recycled polyester, Stella McCartney’s Spring/Summer 2014 Collection for Adidas wears its green credentials with pastel, retro pride. If you want to look sporty and stylish to boot, or simply want to add a splash of colour to your wardrobe, check out the collection’s dresses, trainers, and beachwear, and you’re sure to find something to suit. Available now at adidas stores in Thailand.

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Expat Women

Education |News

School Report

Summer Camp in Khao Yai

ST. Stephen’s International School will host Summer Camps for children aged 6-15 at its Khao Yai campus from March 16 - Apr 5, and Apr 20 - May 10. Entitled “AEC Youth Camp for Global Community,” the summer camp will focus on team building skills and feature a wide range of educational and entertaining activities, including hiking, temple visits, sports events, and brainstorming sessions in which the children will learn about world-changing inventions and even get to design their own. Tel: 02 513 0270 www.ststephen.ac.th

Lakeside Gala Concert at Harrow

HARROW’S popular Lakeside Gala Concert will return on March 13 with a ‘Movies Under the Stars’ theme. Catch the school’s Symphony Orchestra, Jazz Band and Choirs presenting the very best soundtracks from blockbusters of the silver screen, including the most popular James Bond theme tunes. On the night the school will also reveal two very special guest conductors, whose identity will remain a secret until the event. www.harrowschool.ac.th

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Shop For a Cause Celebrity Jumble Sale

ENJOY a day of feel-good shopping, food and drinks, kids’ activities, and much more when Camillian Home for Children holds its first ever ‘Shop For a Cause’ charity jumble sale. To be held on Sun Feb 9 from 10am-5pm at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, the event will bring together celebrity and high profile individuals who have contributed clothing, toys, and household items for sale, the proceeds of which will directly benefit the Camillian Home for Children Living with Disabilities. Among the big names donating goods to the sale are Cindy Bishop, Ase Wang, Natalie Glebova, Emi Stames, Sonia Couling, Debbie Bazoo, Odette Henriette, Joni Anwar, Louis Hesse d’Alzon, Chloe Lane, Pangina Heals, and MissJolanda. Several local vendors will also showcase a myriad of products from organic homemade jam and handmade designer clothing to handcrafted soap, so there will be something for everyone. Light lunch/canapés and drinks will be provided by the Dusit Thani Bangkok. A kids’ corner will provide plenty of entertainment for the kids so mums and dads can shop freely. Visitors can also bid for great prizes in a silent auction. For more info contact Yvonne Liang on Tel: 08 6533 0402 email: camillianhomepr@gmail.com

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8.85 cm

BROMSGROVE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL THAILAND

Education for a bright future

IB scholarships available at KIS

KIS International School is accepting applications for its coveted International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma academic scholarships for the academic year 2014-2015. The IB Diploma scholarship winner will be granted full tuition for the duration of the two-year IB Diploma programme, valued at around 1.5 million baht. The scholarship is open to applicants of all nationalities who are fluent in English and currently in Grade 10 (Year 11). Applicants should be academically strong and well-rounded. Candidates may be eligible for a partial scholarship. Applications are welcome until March 14. For more details contact Ms. Linda Belonje at linda@kis.ac.th. www.kis.ac.th

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THE BEST OF

BRITISH BOARDING IN BANGKOK BRITISH CURRICULUM DAY AND BOARDING SCHOOL FOR BOYS AND GIRLS 2-18 YEARS OLD

Bromsgrove Fun Run raises 100,000 Baht

Affiliated with Bromsgrove School, England: established 1553

UNIVERSITY PLACEMENTS INCLUDE:

BROMSGROVE International School Thailand was at its best on Tuesday 10 December when the school’s students joined parents and teachers to take part in the Bromsgrove Fun Run 2013. Offering distances for students of all ages, the event saw the Early Years students run 700m, the Primary students run 2km, and Secondary students run 5km.The PTA did a wonderful job in providing drinks and snacks for the runners after the event, and the students came out with flying colours as their determination, spirit and indeed fitness, proved crucial in completing the run. The event raised a total of 100,000 Baht for Ban Dek Ramintra School which was presented to the school last month by Deputy Headmaster, Mr Swan, together with Bromsgrove’s Head Boy and Head Girl.

University of Oxford

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www.bromsgrove.ac.th Early Years Campus (2-7 years old) Ramkamhaeng 164 Rd. Tel. 02-540-7122-3 Primary and Secondary Campus (8-18 years old) Suwinthawong Rd. Tel. 02-989-4873

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Expat Women

School Report|Promotion

All the fun of the fair at KIS School’s popular carnival returns on Sat Feb 8 offering a great day out for the whole family ■ KIS International School’s spectacular annual Fun Fair returns this month with a wide range of fun games and activities for the young and young-at-heart. Kick-started in 2004 with a Tsunami fundraising concert in the park, this popular annual event brings together around 2,000 visitors who enjoy a carnival atmosphere of music, food, cocktails, shopping, games and prizes, an amazing raffle, and attractions such as the Euro Bungee, Amazing Maze, Slip n Slide, Pony Rides, and the ever popular Rock Climbing Wall.

KIS’s largest repeated fund-raiser, the fair serves to raise funds for KIS’s refugee students and other causes initiated by the school. One of the main charities supported this year is the Thai Elephant Research and Conservation Fund. Live music and a beer garden will appeal to the more mature crowd, while shopaholics will get their fill from plenty of vendors selling their wares. A variety of international food and drinks from Bangkok’s favourite restaurants will keep all members of the family energized.

The Fun Fair will be held from 2pm-9pm. Entry is a steal at just B100 per adult, B60 per child (free for kids under 2). More information and a map can be found on the school’s website. KIS International School, 999/124 Kesinee Ville Estate, Pracha-Utit Road, Huay Kwang. Easily accessible by MRT. Tel: 02 274 3444 www.kis.ac.th

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Expat Women

School Report|Promotion

Harrow International School comes up tops in the National Outstanding Youth Awards ■ HARROW International School Bangkok is well-known for producing truly outstanding academic prospects with exceptional individual IGCSE and A Level credentials, essential transferable learner skills, and key leadership attributes. There was plenty of evidence of the school’s pedigree last month at The National Outstanding Youth Awards, where three Harrow students received Outstanding Youth Awards from Thailand’s Ministry of Education.

Paveenrat Wongprasert (Rainy),

in Year 13, received her award for outstanding academic excellence. In 20112012 Rainy was recognised by CIE as Best in the World for her IGCSE results in Economics and Geography and Best in Thailand in Biology, Chemistry and History. A diligent, creative girl, Asia has successfully achieved a balance between her extensive co-curricular sporting commitments, academic studies and her leadership responsibilities within Harrow. She is an extremely busy and

In 2012-2013 Rainy won Top in Thailand for IGCSE Physics and AS Level Economics. Rainy has also been offered a well-deserved place at the University of Cambridge to read Economics commencing September of 2014. As Head Girl of Harrow Bangkok this year, Rainy is an inspirational leader who fully grasps the many unique opportunities offered by Harrow, from community service to leadership.

Chatchaya Sakchatchawan (Asia), in Year 13, is a remarkable

tennis player and received her award for sporting excellence. Asia is ranked 933 in the ITF World Singles rankings and 1,147 in the Doubles. She is ranked 23 in the Women’s Circuit of Thailand and has won many titles over the years.

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dedicated student who manages to combine excellent academic grades with full participation in Harrow Inter-House activities, including being a member of the basketball, badminton and dragon boat racing teams.

Nadol Jutasormpakorn (Dol),

in Year 7, is an exceptional musician at Harrow. He has won many international competitions including The Mario Egido International Guitar Competition in Viches, Spain, and The Guitarren International

Festival in Australia. Nadol received his award for his musical talents, but he is also committed to his academic studies and also makes time for his other passion, basketball. Nadol can often be found joking and playing basketball with his friends outside of his heavy music schedule. The management and staff of Harrow International School Bangkok are very proud and delighted with the achievements of these students and wish them further success in their future goals. Harrow is holding an open testing day on Feb 8, applications are invited from prospective pupils aged 10-17 years. Please see www.harrowschool.ac.th for further details

Expat Women

Health|Wellbeing

Five great ways to boost your wellbeing Improve your overall emotional and physical health with these handy tips from nutrition and lifestyle consultant Judith Coulson

Take more time for relationships

Do you have friends you planned to catch up with in the last couple of months but didn’t? Research suggests that a lack of social bonds can damage your health just as much as smoking, obesity, lack of exercise, poor eating habits, and alcohol abuse. With email, Skype, and free messaging services such as Line and What’s App, it has never been easier to stay in contact – or rejuvenate your relationships – with friends and family no matter how far the distance between you and them. • Make it a habit to contact one person a day and plan your short phone calls, text messages, Skype calls, and emails in your diary like any other appointment.

Cut your stress

A little pressure now and then won’t harm you. In fact, short bursts of stress can give you an energy boost. But if stress starts to get chronic, it can increase your risk (or worsen it!) of insomnia, depression, obesity, heart disease, and more. Long work hours, a negative work environment, little sleep, no exercise, a poor diet, and no time spent socializing can contribute to stress. • Make it a habit to take short breaks during the day. Just lean back, close your eyes, and breathe slowly in and out. • Get up and stretch a little, or flex your muscles with office exercises. • Plan long weekends and holidays in advance (at least every 90 days), and during your holidays avoid your phone, tablet, and laptop.

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Volunteer

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A study found that people with positive emotions, and people who create positive emotions for others, were about 20% less likely to have a heart attack or develop heart disease. Positive emotions can make people more resilient and resourceful, strengthen their immune systems, and increase their ability to cope with occupational hazards. We tend to think that our own satisfaction level relies on bettering ourselves, but our happiness also increases when we help others – and happiness is an outstanding remedy for good health. • Is there a Charity Organization in your area that you could volunteer for? • Do you know anyone who would beneﬁt from your help around the house, or have elderly neighbours who would like you to accompany them on a doctor’s visit? • Is there a group of people who would beneﬁt from your professional knowledge? • There are many places in Bangkok where you can donate your time and energy to help the underprivileged. My favourite: www.camillianhomelatkrabang.org.

Go back to school

No matter how old you are, heading back to the classroom can help revamp your career, introduce you to new friends, and even boost your brainpower. A study found that middle-aged adults who join professional workshops, seminars or online courses, had better memory and verbal skills. Studies have also found that people who engage in regular selfdevelopment have a lower risk of contracting Alzheimer’s disease. • Many online courses offer a range of topics that you can study at any time and at your own speed. My favourite http://coursera.org.

Take a trip

Traveling allows you to tap into life as an adventure, and you can make changes without having to do anything too bold or dramatic, and just for a limited amount of time. Travelling can make you feel rejuvenated and replenished. It gets you out of your typical scenery, and the effects are revitalizing. It’s another form of new discovery and learning, and great for the body and soul. • It does not need to be a world tour; even just a trip to an undiscovered part of Bangkok or Thailand can be interesting and surprising. • How about going low cost for a

change. Use the train, the bus, a bike, bicycle, or boat to get around. • Stay at B&Bs and small guesthouses and connect with local people. Judith Coulson is a Medical Nutrition & Lifestyle Consultant, available for private coaching sessions and corporate wellness workshops. Contact Judith@bkk-health.com

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Expat Women

Advice|Problems solved

Ask the experts

Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Expat life getting you down? Don’t suffer in silence. Send in your problems and get advice from professional counsellors Anette and Johanna

Parenting principles put to the test

I AM a mother of three children who, from the ver y beginning, have been raised by me and my husband to be responsible for themselves and, after discussions, to make their own decisions. But right now I am in a ver y difficult position and I feel really confused. My 12 year old daughter has developed an eye disease. Unfortunately it is now so serious that the doctor told us she needs surger y to remove a tumour that presses on her eyes. If untreated, it could result in blindness. We discussed the operation, the consequences of leaving it untreated, but our daughter does not want to have the procedure done. She is afraid of the pain. She has asked us not to force her as she is responsible for her own life. Now we don’t know what to do, force her or just let it go? My husband and I are going back and forth, but I am wondering whether I can let my child go blind? But can I force her to suffer the pain of the operation and take the risk that our relationship will be broken, because we did not stand for the principle of giving our child her own right to decide?

A baby cannot make many decisions. When your kids got their vaccinations did you make this decision for them? Who brought them to school the first day? If one day they decided they would never go to school again, would you allow this to happen? The same with food; do you let your kids decide what to eat or not to eat? Who was or is responsible for preparing it? What about bedtime? And watching TV or gaming etc., Did you always let your kids do whatever they wanted? I could mention many other examples where parents are responsible for the wellbeing of their children. In the situation you describe I think that you as parents should be the final ones in making this decision. You are responsible for the health of your child and since you know that not undergoing surgery may result in blindness, you as her caretakers have to let the surgery go ahead. It will result in pain, but you can support her in her fear. Sometimes we have to let our child suffer pain for their own good and their own future. Such a decision is hard, of course, as your daughter simply wants to escape pain and run. But is it fair to leave this responsibility with your child? Can a 12 year old really carry this responsibility? Life sometimes brings pain and hardship but for your daughter’s future and well-being, you and your husband should unite and tell her she has to undergo the surgery. You, her parents, will be with her throughout the whole process and care for her. This is a decision that only parents should take for their child out of love and concern for them.

Maria, 36, from Italy

Dear Maria,

■ The situation you ask about is indeed very difficult. You and your husband raised your children according to a high value and now it seems you cannot follow through on your own principles. The goals and values you both have for your family are worthwhile and give your children the opportunity to take ownership and grow towards becoming responsible adults. But I assume that you have gradually given your children this space to make their own decisions over time – in other words, decision making needs to be age appropriate.

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tor nical Direc is the Cli ned in the S M g in She trai a DeKon • Johannounseling Center. of NCS C ds and Australia. Netherlan

Afraid of making decisions

I AM finding it ver y difficult to make decisions. This has happened many times in the past, when I hesitated to take up job opportunities, and my slowness in making up my mind has also impacted some of my relationships. Even with smaller decisions, I always wonder what would have happened if I had chosen differently. I’m the sort of guy who reads the menu after ordering food and I hate shopping. The only reason why I am in Bangkok is because my company sent me here, and it would have been ver y difficult to say no. Initially, I had a hard time adjusting but now I’ve grown to quite like the place. And now I have to make a big decision. An opportunity has come up for me to go into business with a great partner back home. It is financially sound, and it is also something I have always wanted to do. Quite possibly, such an opportunity will never come along again. On the other hand, it would mean taking a risk, leaving the company that sent me here, and of course it would also mean leaving Bangkok. As you can maybe guess, I don’t know what to do! I’ve thought about it, I’ve made lists of pros and cons, but that’s not it. I simply can not make the decision. Can you help?

Brent, 53, from the US

own business back home? What is the main emotion you feel when you do that? What is it that attracts you to this idea? Can you describe the person you would be? Describe him as you would to a stranger, in the third person. Write it down. Then look at it again, a few days later. Then do the same with the person you would be if you stayed in Bangkok. You could also draw a diagram of everything that keeps you in Bangkok. Everything you love here, everything you would lose. Some people like to make this into a collage, which evokes more emotions, but it depends on what suits you. This is what you are going to give up. Then do the same with what you are hoping to gain in your new life. With all of this, it’s the feelings that count. The next question then is, how much do you trust your feelings? I can’t promise that this will make the decision for you. In fact, it almost certainly won’t. In the choice between what you have and what you hope for, you have to make a conscious decision. On the other hand, if you don’t make a decision, that’s a decision in itself. Your life will change anyway. The only difference is that you will have less influence on that change. Others will continue to decide for you. You say you have let many opportunities slip away in the past. What would it take for you to break the habit of a lifetime (that you yourself say you are not too happy with) and jump into this one? After all, it may not come again… All the best.

Dear Brent,

■ What is it that makes you hesitate? Is it maybe an intense awareness that every decision brings inevitable loss, while the gain is never entirely certain? Or are you generally resistant to change, and take a while to warm up to it, like the earth lags behind the sun in spring in your home country? (As you did when you were sent to Bangkok). Or do you find it hard to say no to the many potential paths that your life could take, because you can see the value in all of them? Or are you afraid of the responsibility of making your own decision, which is why you prefer to follow decisions that others make for you? Since you have already explored the pros and cons, and say the business would be financially viable, the issue seems to be on the emotional and psychological level. In other words, if you want to make a decision, you need to get to know yourself and your motivations a lot better. Warning: this will mean change! Can you try to imagine what it would FEEL like to have your

• Anette Po of seven in llner Adv. Dipl. Couns. Counselingternational counsellors , is one trained in LoCenter in Saphan Kw at NCS staff counse ndon and the US andai. She llor at Bart’ worked as a s Hospital in London.

Contact details: ncs-counseling.com, anette.p@ncs-counseling.com, Tel: 02 279 8503 Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

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Y O U R U L T I M A T E W H A T ’ S O N G U I D E F O R F e b r u a r y 1 4

What’s on pArt pPerformance pSport pFootball pMovies & Albums pBooks

Nine Inch Nails are just one of the big international acts performing at this year’s Silverlake Music Festival. Page 82.

Who’s Bad?

Enjoy Michael Jackson’s greatest hits performed by lookalike E’Casanova Page 82

Pop punk

Avril Lavigne arrives in Bangkok to perform her hits on Feb 11 Page 82

Rugby 10s

Fast paced rugby and bone crunching tackles at Bangkok Patana Page 84 TheBigChilli 79

What’s On|Exhibitions

Art UNTIL

2/3

Secret Natural

CURVACEOUS, bright, smooth, delicate – life and nature is full of wonderful forms and colour. Here, sculptor Ariya Kitticharoenwiwat pays homage to these forms with a series of plant studies, all beautifully crafted from steel and titanium and infused with subtle splashes of colour.

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art. Boromratchonnee Rd. Open TuesSat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am5.30pm (Closed Mon). 02 422 2092  ardelgallery.com

☎

15/2 Institute of Intimate Museums 26/3 THE first solo exhibition in Thailand by Japanese installation artist Kenji Sugiyama presents a clever twist of traditional diorama art. At a distance, the exhibition contains a display of commercial packaged pasta boxes, strange big eyeballs, and a few tall boxes. Approach for a closer inspection, though, and you’re in for a treat – the objects are packed with exquisitely detailed miniature museums, each full of art lovers looking at shrunken art.

La Lanta Fine Art. 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm 02 204 0583  lalanta.com

☎

Constant Uncertainty

UNTIL

28/2

IN creating his latest series of abstract paintings, multi-talented photographer and artist Angkrit Ajchariyasophon peered into the void of time – imagining the universe in its preBig Bang state, and what this may have looked like.

338 Oida Gallery. 1028/5 Pongamorn Building 4th Floor, Rama 4 Rd. Open Wed-Sun 1pm-5pm  338oidagallery.com

22/2 NOT TO MISS: Oasis of Freedom

V64 Art Studio is celebrating its third anniversary with a day of music, graffiti exhibitions, raffle draws, free drinks, and a giant team treasure hunt promising “an amazing reward” for the winners. Confirmed acts at time of writing included acoustic artist Paul Wilkinson and expat indie band Count The Thief. For more details check out V64’s website. V64 Art Studio. 143/19 Chang Wattana Soi 1 Yak 6.  v64artstudio.com

Three Worlds

UNTIL

BRINGING together photography, poetry, and art, Andrew J. West’s debut exhibition includes photographs of Thailand’s leading and upcoming artists, each posing alongside their artworks about which individual poems have been written. The exhibition is supported by the Office of Contemporary Art and Culture (OCAC) and the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA).

16/2

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. 939 Rama 1 Road (National Stadium BTS) Open Tues-Sun 10am-9pm (closed Mon) 02 214 6630-8  bacc.or.th

☎

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UNTIL

Wave of Life

THE connection between plants and animals, the sun and the moon, and the way they make up the fabric of nature is the concept behind this new range of wooden sculptures by Chumpon Utayophat. Through carefully carved and polished natural symbolic forms, he presents his views with aplomb.

2/3

Ardel’s Third Place Gallery. Sukhumvit 55 (Thonglor Soi 10) Open Tues-Sat 10.30am7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (closed Mon) 02 422 2092  ardelgallery.com

☎

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What’s On|Performance

Stage

Eric Clapton

NOW here’s an artist who really needs no introduction. A three-time inductee to the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (once as a solo artist, and separately as a member of the Yarbirds and Cream), Clapton is one of the world’s most influential guitarists. With over 50 years’ worth of hits at his disposal, expect nothing less than a thrilling show when he takes to the stage in Bangkok.

2/3

Impact Arena. Tickets range B2,500-B6,000  thaiticketmajor.com

11/2 Avril Lavigne Live

POP-punk princess Avril Lavigne is coming to town this month to belt out hit singles such as My Happy Ending, Girlfriend, Here’s To Never Growing Up, and more.

Jekyll & Hyde

26&28/2 THE classic musical thriller is being brought to life 1/3 on stage by The Music Theatre Department, College of Music, Mahidol University. Performances will be held in in English with bilingual subtitles (English and Thai). Starts at 7pm. Music Auditorium Mahidol University Salaya. Tickets range B300-B1,500

☎ 08 1987 1575.

as 15/2 E’Casanova Michael Jackson

Impact Arena. Tickets range B1,000-B4,500  thaiticketmajor.com

ENJOY 20 of Michael Jackson’s greatest hits as performed by award-winning MJ lookalike and tribute artist E’Casanova. Among the set list: Beat it, Black or White, and Smooth Criminal. Sha-moan!

21/2 23/2

Centara Grand Convention Center. Tickets range B800-B3,000  thaiticketmajor.com

1/3 Silverlake Music Festival

SILVERLAKE’S organisers signed off last year’s excellent festival with a promise to return in 2014 bigger, better, and with more top international acts. Glance at next month’s one-day line-up (held over three stages) and you’ll see they’ve certainly kept their word: Nine Inch Nails, The Hives, Foals, The Used, Rebelution, and Taking Back Sunday are all confirmed to perform. What’s more, these bands join a long list of top local and regional acts. Who said Thailand’s music scene was dull? Doors open 12 Noon. See the full line-up at silverlakemusicfest.com Silverlake Vineyard, Pattaya. Tickets: B2,500  thaiticketmajor.com

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Aladdin the Musical AN English musical project by students of the Satit School of Rangsit University, this family-friendly performance is based on Disney’s big-screen adaptation of the tale (which was a global smash-hit) so expect adventure, humour, and catchy-songs aplenty. The performance will be accompanied by the RSU Symphony Orchestra. Aksra Theatre, King Power. Tickets range B1,500-B3,000  thaiticketmajor.com

20/3 Bruno Mars

TICKETS are already on sale for the American singer-songwriter’s first performance in Bangkok and top spots are expected to sell out fast. Get ‘em early to avoid disappointment. Impact Arena. Tickets range B2,000-B5,000  thaiticketmajor.com

Moulin Rouge

Enjoy all the action, magic and songs of the burlesque jukebox-musical at Checkinn99 HOT on the heels of their excellent adaptation of The Rocky Horror Picture Show, the talented house theatre troupe of Checkinn99 are taking to the stage this month to bring to life another musical sensation – the world-famous Moulin Rouge. With a storyline specially adapted from the 2001 film of the same name starring Nicole Kidman and Ewan McGregor, Checkinn99’s uproarious version of the tale will feature a full music set list and choreographed dance drawn from familiar 20th century hits. Set in the bohemian underworld of the Montmartre Quarter of Paris, The Moulin Rouge tells the tale of a young poet, Christian, who falls in love with Satine, the most beautiful courtesan in Paris and star performer of the notorious nightclub, the Moulin Rouge. Problem is, Satine has been promised by the owners of the club to an investor called The Duke. Cue a dangerous love triangle, jealous bickering, and absinthe binges aplenty as Satine and Christian attempt to fight all odds to stay together. The setting for this muchloved tale couldn’t be more perfect. Similar to the actual Moulin Rouge in Paris – which was co-founded in 1889 by Charles Zidler, a highly personable host who sought to create a night attraction featuring high quality music and continually changing choreographed dance shows – Checkinn99 is a history-steeped, salubrious

NOT MIS TO S!

cabaret bar with a slightly checkered past (which in many ways parallels the real Moulin Rouge) where visitors can enjoy fun-packed performances by the captivating Philippine house band, Music of the Heart, who put on a nightly cabaret show of song and dance to a crowd of cult followers who love what they do. Sunday afternoon jazz jamming sessions, regular book readings, genuinely friendly service, and excellent value add to the bar’s appeal. “We’re passionate about the arts and can’t wait for audiences to see our theatre-restaurant take on the Moulin Rouge,” says Checkinn99’s owner Chris Catto-Smith, who will play a nun in the performance. “It is a complex production and very much a milestone in the Bangkok entertainment calendar. The jukebox selection of popular music, emotive songs, and exciting choreographed dance including the famous Can Can will be a knockout. The audience is strongly encouraged to come in theme dress.” The first performance of Moulin Rouge is scheduled for Feb 14 (depending on the political situation), with seven additional repeat shows over the three following weeks. The full schedule will be posted on the restaurant's website. Tickets are being sold online: Gold (B900 with reserved seating and two standard drinks) and Silver (B600 with unreserved seats and one drink).

97 Sukhumvit Rd (between Sois 5 and 7, opposite The Landmark Bangkok) Tel: 081 735 7617 www.checkinn99bkk.com

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What’s On|Outdoor fun

Sport

FIM Motocross World Championship Grand Prix

7/3 9/3

ZOOMING into Thailand for the first time, the premier championship of motocross racing will bring top international riders to the kingdom for three-days of action-packed racing at PinThong 3 Industrial Estate in Chonburi. Divided into three distinct classes – MX1, MX2, and MX3 – the annual globetrotting series is sanctioned by the Fédération Internationale de Motocyclisme (FIM), which kick-started the championships in 1957. PinThong 3 Industrial Estate, Sriracha – Chonburi. Tickets range B500-B5,000 thaiticketmajor.com

LPGA Thailand 20/2 Honda SIXTY of the world’s leading female golfers will 23/2 arrive in Pattaya to compete in this 72-hole stroke

8/2

play tournament for a chance to win 46 million baht (and, if they land a hole in one on hole 16, a new Honda Accord 2.4 EL). For more details, and a chance to win free tickets, see www.hondalpga.com. Siam Country Club Pattaya Old Course. Tickets range B300-B800 thaiticketmajor.com

The North Face 100

ATHLETES looking to push themselves to the limits will find they can do exactly that in this grueling event – a 100km trail run in the hills of Amphoe Pakchong, Khao Yai. The adventurous trail will lead each runner throughout mango and manioc plantations and various traditional Thai temples. 100km duo and 50km solo categories are also available. The Bonanza Resort Khao Yai goadventureasia.com

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Bangkok Rugby 10s

2/3 Supersports 10 miles International Run

WANT to enter a race event but don’t have the fitness to attempt a half-marathon? Sign yourself up for this 10 mile run. Now in its second year, this popular event also features five mile and two mile categories so everyone can take part – no excuses! Starts & Finishes at Central World Ratchadamri Rd. goadventureasia.com

FAST-paced play and bone-crunching tackles are the order of the day at this popular 22/2 annual tournament, 23/2 which brings in teams from around the world for some superb rugby at Bangkok Patana School. Alongside all the action on the pitch, you’ll find a beer garden, food stalls, and kids’ activities. It’s a great day out for the whole family. Free entry. Bangkok Patana School, 2/38 Soi Lasalle, Sukhumvit 105 bangkokrugby10s.net

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What’s On|Soccer

Thai Football

SOCCER PUNDIT PAUL HEWITT EXAMINES WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE WORLD OF THAI FOOTBALL

‘Double Jay’ tackling the cynics

THE 2014 Thai Premier League gets underway on February 22 and another two-horse race between Buriram United and Muangthong United looms. The expanded division now contains twenty teams, nine of whom are from Bangkok and vicinity, but it’s difficult to look beyond the two giants of Thai football for realistic title contenders. The ‘marquee’ signings made by each demonstrate how their financial clout puts them in a league above the rest of the sides in the division. Jay Simpson, the English attacker who played 43 times for Hull City just last season, has been taken on by Buriram, whilst namesake Jay Bothroyd,, English Premier League and Championship experience with QPR , Cardiff and Sheffield Wednesday, and an England cap, has been signed by Muangthong. These two signings definitely add to the belief that the TPL is a growing power in the region, able to financially compete, to an extent, with Japan, Korea and Australia. The arrival of the two Jays has the cynics recycling the usual clichés about big paydays and players’ motives, but they may be wide of the mark this time. Neither player conforms to the stereotype of the Western player in Thailand. They haven’t come from the non-leagues, neither are they two veterans having a last roll of the dice: Bothroyd is 31 and Simpson just 25. So just here for the money then? They will undoubtedly be the top earners in their

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squads but would hardly have earned a pittance had they signed with Championship clubs in England – something they surely could have both done given their recent experience. Put simply, it isn’t fair to judge them now. Their motives and desire to be here or not will be revealed once the season is

Sit Down Shut Up

THE TPL held a meeting on the 22nd January in which the fixtures were drawn and several new rules for clubs were announced. The new regulations range from the trivial: ‘all dressing rooms to contain a buzzer to ensure punctual kick-off times’ to the bizarre: ‘clubs to be fined 10,000 baht if a stray dog interrupts a match.’

underway. If they are performing well on the pitch and are not put off by the heat, the rain, the dodgy referees, the interfering club owners, the dreadful pitches, the shocking proliferation of both diving and fouling, and if they have avoided the myriad off-field temptations, then they truly will have earned that ‘big money.’ Unfortunately, the rules also stray into the downright sinister: ‘home teams to be fined a maximum of 150,000 baht and deducted six points if fans abuse the TPL or FAT or other third parties during matches.’ The precise details state that the first time it happens a club will be fined 50,000 baht; twice, and they will be fined 100,000 baht and deducted three points, and if it happens a third time then that maximum punishment outlined above will be levied. To clarify, it will only be the home club punished. So away fans could vent their spleen regarding the latest goings on at the FAT and potentially get a title or relegation rival docked points! In reality, I don’t envisage any ‘tactical’ protesting by fans but that’s not the biggest concern anyway. The regulation itself is clearly a brutal, unabashed frontal assault on basic freedom of speech (i.e the freedom to criticise) and highlights a skewed sense of priorities at TPL towers. That the TPL reserves its strongest punishment for fans shouting “Worawi aok bai” and the like is astonishing and

Your Club Needs You! AS mentioned at the beginning of the column, there are now nine teams from the Bangkok area in the Thai Premier League this season. So if you haven’t caught a match in the Land of Smiles yet then there will be no better chance than in 2014 as there’s likely to be a game going on close by no matter where you live. Up in Nonthaburi, next to the IMPACT arena, we have Muangthong United, and just down the road in Chaeng Wattana, TOT play their home games. Over in Pathum Thani, Air Force play their home matches at the Thupathemi Stadium next to Don Muang Airport and not far away in Bueng Yitho, Thanyaburi, you can find the Leo Stadium, home of Bangkok Glass, whilst Police United play at the Thammasat Univeristy Stadium in the Rangsit Campus. Within the boundaries of Bangkok proper, we have four teams. BEC Tero Sasana play at the 72nd Anniversary Stadium in Minburi. In Din Daeng we have two teams, one on each side of the Vibhavadi-Rangsit Road. Army United play at the Thai Army Stadium, clearly visible from the road itself, whilst Bangkok United use the Thai-Japanese Stadium. Finally, there is Singhtarua FC – formally Thai Port and a firm favourite with expats – who can be found at the PAT Stadium in Khlong Toey. Down in League 1 and there are four more choices. If you are on the Thonburi side of the river then you have Bangkok FC at the Bang Mod Stadium and a little further west, Nakhon Pathom United play at the Sanam Chan Palace ground. Back in Bangkok, BBCU groundshare with Army United. Lastly, just outside the capital in Samut Prakan, the newly merged TTM-Customs will play at the Lad Krabang 54 Stadium. So no excuses for not getting involved in 2014! genuinely troubling. The rule could even be interpreted as banning fans from calling for their chairman or manager or head coach to be fired. One can play devil’s advocate and say that fans don’t have the right to be abusive, defamatory or slanderous, but this rule seems to go further than that; the message is clear: criticism is out, censorship is in. And as is typical, the TPL has gone down the route of punishing clubs for fans’ actions. We see it every season; fans can fight, throw missiles, let-off fireworks and run on the pitch with personal impunity. Uninterested police and ineffective stewards just look on and the club has to pick up the fine. Clubs get it wrong, too. Whereas the TPL is keen to punish clubs for the actions of the fans, the clubs are keen to punish the majority for the actions of a minority. At my club Nakhon Ratchasima FC, it was recently announced that fans will be banned from taking food and drink inside the stadium this season. The throwing of bottles during matches was given as a major reason for the ban. Is that fair when no efforts whatsoever are ever made to tackle the tiny minority who throw the occasional water bottle? The fact is that there doesn’t yet exist a culture in Thai football of ejecting, banning or arresting unruly fans. Until that state of affairs changes then we won’t see a change in fans’ behaviour.

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What’s On|Movies & Music

Screen 6/2

The Lego Movie

THE world-famous building blocks brand has conquered toy boxes and games consoles around the world, and now its building on its phenomenal success by hitting cinemas for its first big screen adventure – a CGI laugh-fest which tells the tale of a humble Lego mini-figure (voiced by Chris Pratt), who, in a case of mistaken identity, is drafted into a group trying to defeat a Lego tyrant. Will Arnett, Elizabeth Banks, Morgan Freeman, Will Ferrell, Liam Neeson, and Alison Brie round out the rest of the voice cast.

13/2 RoboCop

HORRENDOUSLY cheesy sequels aside, there’s no denying that Paul Verhoeven’s original RoboCop outing in ’87 was a cinematic gem – dark, gritty, and a standout blockbuster in a decade packed with great movies exploring the potential terrors of new technology (think The Terminator, War Games, Blade Runner). This franchise reboot, directed by José Padilha and starring Joel Kinnaman, Samuel L. Jackson, and Michael Keaton, updates the story’s formula (Alex Murphy isn’t dead when he becomes part machine), but sci-fi geeks everywhere will be hoping that the magic which made the original such a big hit remains intact.

20/2 6/3 300: Rise Of An Empire

BASED on Frank Miller’s latest graphic novel, Xerxes, and told in the visual style of the blockbuster “300,” this new chapter of the epic Spartan warrior saga takes the action to a fresh battlefield – on the sea – as Greek general Themistokles (Sullivan Stapleton) attempts to unite all of Greece by going up against massive invading Persian forces led by mortal-turned-god Xerxes (Rodrigo Santoro), and Artemisia (Eva Green), a vengeful commander of the Persian navy.

Saving Mr. Banks

INSPIRED by the story of how Disney’s classic “Mary Poppins” made it to the big screen, SMB follows Walt Disney (Tom Hanks) in his final attempt to persuade the curmudgeonly, uncompromising author P.L Travers (Emma Thompson) to sign over the rights to her smash hit novel. Follow their testy relationship as together they ultimately make one of the most endearing films in cinematic history.

Movie screenings are subject to change. Keep up to date at majorcineplex.com

MEMORY LANE

New albums

MAXIMO PARK Too Much Information (Release date: Feb 3)

SHOCKING PINKS Guilt Mirrors (Release date: Feb 18)

KATY B Little Red (Release date: Feb 3)

WILD BEASTS Present Tense (Release date: Feb 24)

BROKEN BELLS After The Disco (Release date: Feb 4)

METRONOMY Love Letters (Release date: Mar 10)

THE FEELING Boy Cried Wolf (Release date: Feb 18)

BLACK LIPS Underneath The Rainbow (Release date: Mar 18)

TheBigChilli

TOPPING THE UK CHARTS FEB 1984

1. Nena – 99 Red Balloons 2. Kool & The Gang – Joanna/ Tonight 3. Queen – Radio Gaga 4. Break Machine – Street Dance 5. Thompson Twins – Doctor Doctor 6. Style Council – My Ever Changing Moods 7. Sade – Your Love Is King 8. Rockwell – Somebody’s Watching Me 9. Grandmaster & Melle Mel – White Lines (Don’t Do It) 10. Van Halen – Jump

Just for fun

Entertainment|Jokes

Humour Top quality gags from the mouth of a pro. This month: Tim Vine

On travel

On love

• I was at sea the other day and loads of meat ﬂoated past. It was a bit choppy. • When I left home, my mum said: “Don’t forget to write.” I thought: “That’s unlikely – it’s a basic skill.” • I’ll tell you what I love doing more than anything: trying to pack myself in a small suitcase. I can hardly contain myself. • So I said to this train driver: “I want to go to Paris.” He said: “Eurostar?” I said: “I’ve been on telly, but I’m no Dean Martin.”

• I’ve got a friend who’s fallen in love with two school bags: he’s bisatchel. • Last night, me and my girlfriend watched three DVDs back to back. Luckily, I was the one facing the telly. • I saw this bloke chatting up a cheetah and I thought: “He’s trying to pull a fast one.” • Somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windscreen which said “parking ﬁne.”

On sport

Random thoughts

• So I said to the gym instructor: “Can you teach me to do the splits?” He said: “How ﬂexible are you?” I said: “I can’t do Tuesdays.” • I rang up my local swimming baths. I said: “Is that the local swimming baths?” He said: “It depends where you’re calling from.” • I took part in the sun tanning Olympics. I just got Bronze. • I’ve just been on a once-in-a-lifetime holiday. I’ll tell you what, never again.

• Beware of alphabet grenades. If you throw them, it could spell “disaster.” • Crime in multi-storey car parks: that’s wrong on so many levels. • I’ll tell you what makes my blood boil: crematoriums. • I used to ﬁle my nails, but then I thought, “What’s the point in keeping them?” • I saw this advert in a window that said: “Television for sale, £1, volume stuck on full.” I thought, “I can’t turn that down.”

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Social  Last month’s best events in pictures

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

VARUNA MEMBERS ENJOY GATSBY PARTY ALMOST 200 members and friends of the Royal Varuna Yacht Club enjoyed a fabulous New Year’s Eve ‘Great Gatsby’ party, featuring live music by the Royal Navy band, dancing, a huge buffet and beautiful balmy weather.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

NETWORKING BY THE BEACH THE first Eastern Seaboard (ESB) networking event of the year was hosted by the British Chamber of Commerce Thailand at Dicey Reilly’s Pub & Eatery, Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa. Held in conjunction with AustCham Thailand, the American Chamber of Commerce in Thailand and the South African-Thai Chamber of Commerce, the event brought together executives from a wide range of industries to enjoy a night of business talk, small talk, and tasty eats and drinks.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

‘SATTAHIP SIX’ GET BANG SARAY IN THE MOOD

SLEEPY Bang Saray fishing village, south of Pattaya, enjoyed a wonderful musical interlude recently when the newly formed Sattahip Six performed “An Afternoon of Vintage Jazz’ to a packed audience at the Bang Saray Club.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

CENTARA REACHES FOR THE STARS

CENTARA Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin welcomed 2014 in style with a superb New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner held in the gardens by the resort’s Colonial Pool. With a “Reach for the Stars” theme, the event featured live music, special dance performances, and a lavish buffet teeming with gourmet delicacies.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

THE PINTSMAN ROCKS LIVE music, special drinks deals, free snacks, lucky draws, and a lively crowd set the scene for a great New Year’s Eve party at The Pintsman pub on Silom Road.

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JEAN-LUC COLOMBO EXCLUSIVE WINE LUNCH

OENOPHILES and foodies enjoyed an afternoon of exquisite cuisine and fine French wines at the Jean-Luc Colombo Exclusive Wine Lunch with Laure Colombo, presented by Sibour at Le Normandie, Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. Especially for the occasion, Executive Chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier created a five-course menu, each dish carefully crafted to pair with one of the premium wines of Vins Jean-Luc Colombo. On hand to discuss more about the wines was talented winemaker Laure Colombo.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

MULLIGANS TURNS FIVE MULLIGANS Irish Bar on Khao San Road celebrated its fifth anniversary with a lively party featuring drinks promos, free snacks, and a performance by popular Thai band Greasy Cafe.

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GREAT GATSBY COUNTDOWN A GLAMOROUS crowd and a Great Gatsby theme were the ingredients for a superb New Year’s Eve party at Ku Dé Ta, which perfectly set the scene with a stylish blend of music, glitter, costumes, and champagne. Special guest of the night was Thai superstar Ploy Cherman Boonyasak.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

HILTON’S GOURMET TREAT HILTON Pattaya’s General Manager, Rudolph Troestler, hosted a ‘Media Thank You Dinner’ at the hotel’s Sundeck where editors, writers and journalists from local publications enjoyed a night of gourmet food, fine wines, and live music.

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Social|Around town

GIFT GIVING WITH RAMADA

RAMADA Khao Lak’s management and staff travelled with a team of media representatives to the Home & Life Foundation, Phang Nga Province, where they donated money and supplies for the charity, which takes care of children who lost their families in the 2004 tsunami. TheBigChilli 109

Social|Around Last Month’s town Best Events

SHERATON TOASTS ITS SUCCESS

ROYAL Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers hosted a cocktail reception to celebrate the hotel’s success at the World Luxury Awards in 2013, where it was named Luxury Hotel & Conference Centre of the year. 110

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DIPLOMATS p Meet the people uniting nations

HE Kirsti Westphalen Recently arrived envoy talks about being responsible for four countries Page 112

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Diplomats

HE Kirsti Westphalen|Finland

Finland’s Ambassador off to a great start Recently arrived envoy talks to Maxmilian Wechsler about being responsible for four countries, her last posting in the US and why she became an expert in political Islam, radicalization and counter-terrorism

THE embassy office of Her Excellency Kirsti Westphalen, Ambassador of Finland to Thailand, enjoys spectacular views of Bangkok. Located on the 16th floor of the Amarin Tower on Ploenchit Road, it overlooks the central shopping district, and is neither too high nor too low. Mrs Westphalen, who just took up her post in September, said the bird’s-eye perspective from her workplace gives her a lot of inspiration. “Yes, I have a nice view of Bangkok from my office window, including CentralWorld.” Mrs Westphalen enjoys being close to the action around Ratchaprasong intersection, with views of the Grand Hyatt Erawan and other hotels, offices and residential towers in the vicinity. “Especially with all the wonderful lights in the evening, I really like it here,” she said, looking out from her large window as if she had just entered the office for the first time. Mrs Westphalen is one of eleven female ambassadors now residing in the kingdom. “We keep in close contact with each other, but it would be nice if there were more women in the diplomatic community here. Around 50 per cent of Finnish ambassadors abroad are women. On the whole, the diplomatic community in Thailand is very active, made up of wonderful colleagues who are helpful to one another.” Asked why ambassadors posted in Thailand are generally among the most experienced diplomats of their respective countries, she said: “Thailand is an important country in a very strategic location. For decades the economic development in greater Asia, looking at India, China and the Asian ‘tigers,’ has been very impressive. In recent years there has been modest economic growth in Europe and America. The world is looking towards Asia where both the big countries and the smaller ones have great potential.” The ambassador says she was born “a long time ago” in the capital of Finland, Helsinki. “My

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Winter traffic in the center of Helsinki

Relaxing in the city

Winter cycling

mother taught English in high school and my father, who I unfortunately lost at a very young age, was an economist who negotiated international trade deals. I am sure this helped inspire me to do something international as well,” said Mrs Westphalen, who has a Master of Arts degree from the University of Helsinki in International Politics and an MA from Durham University in Middle Eastern Studies. “I studied political science and international law at the University of Helsinki, and then at a mature age I had the opportunity to study for a postgraduate degree at Durham University in northern England, where they have an excellent department for the politics of the Middle East. I specialize in political Islam, radicalization and counter-terrorism. “My husband is a Moroccan journalist who took early retirement. He was the editor-in-chief and TV anchor for the Moroccan TV news. He knows all about deadlines,” she said with a broad smile. Mrs Westphalen speaks five languages fluently: Finnish, English, French, Swedish and German, although she confessed to being a little rusty in the latter. “At home, we used to speak French but now we speak English. We have ‘invented’ our own language – a mixture of French and English.” What about Thai? The ambassador answered with a hint of regret that this is “a big plan that has not been realized as yet.” She named her hobbies as “reading, movies, travel and sports;” but it’s certain that her duties here keep her busy. She is also ambassador to Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar. Mrs Westphalen is a career diplomat who always knew what she wanted to do. “Since I was a youngster, international affairs have been my hobby and this is what I studied. After some work with NGOs, I was fortunate enough to be accepted to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1981. “Before taking the post in Thailand, I served from 2008 to 2013 as Consul-General of Finland in Los Angeles in the US and acted as the Dean of the Los Angeles consular corps in 2012 and 2013. Before that I held various positions in Paris, Beijing, New York, Damascus, Rabat and the United Kingdom. “I visited Thailand for the first time some 25 years ago. I have wonderful memories of Phuket, but a lot of change has occurred there since then. My second visit to Thailand was

when I took up this post,” said Mrs Westphalen, adding that it had been her ambition to become ambassador to Thailand.

Meeting with royalty and responsibilities Mrs Westphalen presented her credentials to HRH Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn on Sunday, December 15 along with five other ambassadors. “I had the opportunity to speak with the Crown Prince, and we had a very friendly and nice discussion. We talked about education, clean technology and bringing our two countries closer together. I told His Royal Highness that many Finns are coming to Thailand in the winter months to enjoy the sunshine and that we also have more and more Thais living in Finland.” She has also presented her credentials in Laos and will soon do the same in Myanmar and Cambodia. “Every ambassador’s task is to portray his or her country in the best possible way. What you want to do is to promote relations in all spheres. In

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HE Kirsti Westphalen|Finland Restaurant Sunn Helsinki

People getting off the tram

Kaisatalo, Helsinki University library

our case, between Finland and Thailand, relations are already quite good. There are no political difficulties as such between Finland and Thailand or the European Union and Thailand. We are negotiating a Free Trade Agreement which will bring very good momentum into these relations. “Besides dealing with political issues here in Thailand, Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia, my job consists largely of promoting trade, commerce and investments. This is very important. Then, of course, we provide services for our citizens who are quite numerous here, as well as visa services for Thais who want to go to Finland. “First and foremost during my tour, I want to achieve real results in promoting bilateral relations in the areas that we have identified as being crucial, like education, technology, life sciences, healthcare and investment. It is a personal priority to gain a better understanding of the history and culture of Thailand, and this in turn will enable me to better judge and explain events in Thailand and neighbouring countries. “Because our embassy covers not only Thailand but also Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia, it gives me the chance to learn more about the history, culture and politics of all four countries. I am very fortunate to be assigned here,” said Mrs Westphalen, adding that the term for Finnish ambassadors is usually three or four years. How does she look after diplomatic duties for Finland in four countries? “You can only cope when you have excellent

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colleagues to assist you. We have a chargé d’affaires in Yangon with whom I work very closely. We just opened up an office there. I also have a colleague in Vientiane, Lao PRD, who looks after development projects. “We deal with issues of politics, human rights, development and other areas. As does every embassy, we gather information about Thailand from Thai and English media and many other sources. But it is also very important that you communicate with influential and knowledgeable people within Thai society who can translate their views of unfolding political events. It is important that you have multiple sources of information upon which you can base your judgment and try to draw your own conclusions. But one must admit that the political situation is quite complicated in Thailand at this time.” She compared the situation here to that in the US. “During my five years in Los Angeles, I followed politics in Washington DC, where you have two parties that did not discuss issues with one another. The situation is similar in Thailand. When there is no discussion between political parties, things don’t move. This is unfortunate because now is a critical time for Thailand to move forward in the area of regional competitiveness. “During the present political crises of Thailand, the European Union has underlined the importance of rule of law and solving political differences in a non-violent manner.”

A histor y of diplomacy “Finland and Thailand established diplomatic relations in 1954, and since 2012 there has been a full-fledged ambassador. “Our embassy in Thailand has been at this location for 20 years or so. We have had a resident ambassador in Thailand since 1986 and since then have expanded our staff and services for our citizens and for visa seekers,” Mrs Westphalen said. “Currently there are 30 people working at the embassy, which for Finland is quite a lot, but starting this year we will have more colleagues joining us on a temporary basis, so we might be up to 40 people. Two-thirds of our embassy staff is made up of Thai nationals.”

Martha Association Finland

Flatland BMX Cleaning day flea market

The volume of exports from Thailand to Finland is valued at about 200 million euros and it’s about the same the other way, with Thailand having a slight edge in the trade balance. “We trade in high-tech products, clean technology/renewable technology/biomass, expert services and hopefully in the future in educational products as well,” added Mrs Westphalen. “We export to Thailand all kinds of high-tech products such as Nokia, which is based in Finland and is going through some big changes. We have some 40 Finnish companies established here, including one that manufactures packaging for companies selling consumer goods, such as 7-Eleven. “We are very good in matters related to clean technology, including bio-gas, and environmental protection, and we see a great potential in these areas in the future. All countries around the world are becoming interested in sustainable solutions. You want to do more and better things with fewer natural resources so that it will be less polluting. We are looking to extend the life cycle of products, for example. Moving toward energy conservation and renewable energy is very important for Thailand and the whole Mekong region.” Regarding high-level visits between the two countries, Mrs Westphalen noted that the Finnish Secretary of State came to Thailand last year and she is hopeful that in 2014 his counterpart in Thailand will make a reciprocal visit. “We have in the pipeline several high-level visits, which I am not in the position to specify at this moment, but I can say that we are looking at very interesting times in developing Finnish-Thai relations. “The government of Finland believes that regional cooperation and integration within ASEAN is very important. The birth of the ASEAN Economic Community in 2015 underlines the need for all countries in the area to try and improve their performance as borders open up and trade is liberalized and people can move

Emergency personnel

Profile photos of Ambassador Westphalen by Artawhit Pundrikapa; city scenes by Team Finland/ Riitta Supperi (apart from Flatland BMX: Team Finland/ Emilia Kangasluoma)

about more freely to realize their best opportunities.” A schedule of visits to the other three ASEAN nations she serves as ambassador has not been worked out as yet. “In November I went to Laos twice. I haven’t yet visited the other two countries but I can say that I will travel to these countries in the future on a regular basis.” On the subject of tourism, Mrs Westphalen remarked that this is obviously a very big business for Thailand. “This is the time of the year when many Finns and other Scandinavians come to warm Thailand as it is cold and dark at home. “Altogether 160,000 Finns out of a population of 5.3 million visited Thailand last year. This is a very large number of people and of course sometimes there are problems, but this is one of the risks of travel. We hope that all Finns have travel insurance and don’t do silly things, and that they wear helmets when riding motorcycles. However, accidents do happen. “We also have elderly people staying a long time in a warmer climate, which may be more stressful for the heart, for example, so there are other medical problems. Of course, our consular services try to assist our citizens whenever problems occur. “We have quite a few people staying semi-permanently in Thailand. We don’t have the exact figures but it could be between 10,000 and 20,000 people. There are so many families that are Thai-Finish, and many have two homes and spend part of the year in Thailand. “As for Thais visiting Finland, we issue about 8,000 visas per year for Thai nationals. Thais are the sixth largest community of foreign nationals in Finland. There are many Thai restaurants and many Thai-Finnish families have formed, mostly when Thai ladies marry with a Finnish gentleman. “We hope that in the future there will be more business ties between our countries as well as enhanced academic and research contacts.”

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HE Kirsti Westphalen|Finland

9/11 a turning point Mrs Westphalen explained her decision to return to school to become an expert in political Islam, radicalization and counterterrorism. “After 9/11 the whole world was trying to understand reasons behind the attack and the underlining factors. I had been posted in Syria and Morocco and had a keen interest in the Arab world, so I was excited to be able to do postgraduate studies on the subject. “Islam and the role religion plays in politics in the Arab/ Muslim world was something that we in the Western world did not have enough understanding about. I established a program in Finland called ‘Engagement with the Islamic World’ to enhance our understanding. The program’s approach has been emulated by many foreign services around the world. “In developing the program I studied the tensions that were building up in Arab societies and which began to unravel during the ‘Arab Spring.’” The US is another part of the world that has a special interest for Mrs Westphalen. She lived in America as a young exchange student, and in the 1980s she was attached to the Finnish United Nations mission in New York. She was delighted with the opportunity to serve as the Finnish Consul-General in Los Angeles. “Los Angeles was fantastic and it was really wonderful to look at all the new challenges and developments there, like in science, technology and education. The competiveness of Western economies in this age of globalization is very apparent in Los Angeles. We had a wonderful taste of Thailand already in Los Angeles as the city is home to a large Thai community. Thai restaurants in Los Angeles are excellent. “I live quite far from the embassy, about 22 kilometers. On Nut is our closest BTS station and we are still four kilometers away from there. So I have to give myself plenty of time to get to work and back home. “So far I haven’t had much time to travel outside Bangkok, except a few days in Koh Samui which was lovely. I am looking forward to really getting to know the country and its beauty. I am really fascinated by Thailand – the natural environment and the climate. All of that is really wonderful. As for handicrafts, I really like Jim Thompson silks. “There’s only one thing I don’t like about Bangkok and that is the traffic, but I think everyone who lives here will agree with me on that.” The ambassador remarked that she had heard that ice hockey – a very popular sport in Finland – is also played in Thailand, but she was not aware of any Finnish hockey players here. “They are very famous around the world, and believe it or not, in California. Cultural exchanges in sport between Thailand and Finland are one area we are looking at.”

On corruption and education “During my few months here, I have noted the issue of corruption comes up in daily discussions. Finland has very little corruption and we do well in international comparisons. Political corruption like vote-buying doesn’t exist in Finland,

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Finland by the numbers According to the latest indexes, Finland ranks seventh in the World Happiness Report among 156 countries; third in the Global Democracy out of 115 countries; and is ranked first in the World Press Freedom among179 countries. In the Transparency International Corruption Index, which looked at 177 countries, Finland shares third place with Sweden, and in Global Competitiveness, Finland holds third place out of 148 countries ranked. The country also scores very highly on maternal health, child mortality and education.

and in fact we do not have corruption to speak of. I think that stems from the fact that there are very important checks and balances in the society. “If somebody does something wrong that person goes to court and the rule of law is followed. The justice system treats everyone equally and that creates a feeling in the society that nobody can misuse or take advantage of others,” Mrs Westphalen said. “Where corruption exists, be it Finland or Thailand, it is not a harmless thing. Corruption encumbers administration, weakens democracy, and distorts the market economy. Closeknit networks between decision-makers and businesses will easily lead to a situation in which decisions are not made on the basis of facts. Fair competition does not happen. “Corruption is reduced by a critical civic society, where ordinary people are able to influence decisions. For instance, in Finland the right to appeal is often seen as a nuisance, which slows projects down. Experts see this as an important impediment to corruption. “A typical feature of corrupt activities is that of trying to push through decisions as quickly as possible. Certainly the right to appeal slows things down, but because of it, the decision maker is strangely more meticulous. “It sounds dull, but the best way to fight corruption is for people to know their rights, what has been decided, how laws have been applied, and that decisions can also be appealed.”

HUA HIN

Cha Am • Pranburi • And beyond...

Award-winning destination spa The Barai is offering a special pampering package perfect for couples. Page 118.

News & deals

Hua Hin’s hottest promotions and deals await inside Page 118

Luxury for less

Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas offers a Winter Special Page 118

Golf treat

Banyan Golf Club kick starts the month with gourmet deals Page 120 TheBigChilli 117

Hu aH i n

N ews and Deals

Golf getaway with Amari TO celebrate Hua Hin’s achievement of being named ‘Asia and Australasia’s 2014 Golf Destination of the Year’ by the International Association of Golf Tourism Operators (IAGTO), Amari Hua Hin has teamed up with Majestic Creek Golf Course to offer a special golf-andaccommodation packaged entitled “Hua Hin’s Perfect Golf Getaway.” This great deal includes a two-night’s stay with daily breakfast for two, complimentary green fee and caddie, complimentary round trip transfer to golf course, a choice of a two-hour spa package for non-golfing guest, and more. Rates start at B8,000++ per room for two nights for two people. Promotion ends June 30. Online booking only. ☎ 03 261 6600 :amari.com/amarihuahin

Enjoy a great deal at Banyan The Resort FEATURING luxury accommodation, spa treatments, and cooking classes, Banyan The Resort’s latest package deals offer superb value for money. Two options are on offer. The first, a three days and two nights’ stay in a one bedroom Jacuzzi Pool Villa, is priced B15,700 and includes breakfast for two, one afternoon tea set for two persons per stay, a 150mins body treatment for two, a western set dinner for two, and late check-out. The second deal, a five days and four nights’ stay in a one bedroom Jacuzzi Pool Villa, offers the same additional benefits for B27,200. ☎ 03 253 8888 :banyanthailand.com

Valentine’s Day specials at Hilton ROMANCE is made easy this year the the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa, which, especially for Valentine’s Day, is offering a wide range of promotions perfect for lovebirds. Among the options: An Asian and International buffet dinner at the Market (B1,399 per person inclusive of soft drinks, wines and beers), complete with love songs performed live by the Metropolis band; A five-course menu of Chinese, Thai and Mediterranean fusion cuisine paired with fine wines and love songs at White Lotus Chinese Restaurant (B3,999 per couple); and a four-course seafood dinner by the beach (B1,690 with a bottle of Sparkling Rose).☎ 03 253 8999 :hilton.com

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Relax in bliss at The Barai WANT to treat your loved one to a Valentine’s gift to remember? Book them in for a treatment at The Barai. This award-winning destination spa, located on the beachfront land adjacent to the Hyatt Regency Hua Hin, is celebrating the month of love with two special treatments. Choose either the Valentine Dawn, a three-hour pampering that includes a Sensory bath, Choco and cinnamon body scrub, Rose romance clay body mask, and Harmony body massage at B9,900++ per couple; or the Lips Kiss Softener, a one-hour anti-aging lip treatment, facial cleanse and scalp massage for B2,500++ per person. ☎ 03 251 1234 :thebarai.com

Luxury for less in Pranburi THE stunning five-star Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas is currently offering a ‘Winter Special Package’ deal for its Private Pool Villas. Rates start at B8,888 per night inclusive of gourmet breakfast for two and a B2,000 dining voucher per villa per day. ☎ 03 270 8080 :sheratonhuahinpranburi.com

Hu aH i n

N ews and Deals

Gourmet games at Banyan Golf Club

Fun and games with Hilton HILTON Hua Hin Resort & Spa’s Blue Energy Committee recently ventured to the Border Patrol School, Baan Prak Ta Kror, Pa La-U in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, where they treated the kids to lunch and an afternoon of fun games and activities. The hotel also donated stationery and special gifts. “Hilton takes pride in engaging with the local communities and it is a pleasure to see so many smiling children,” said the hotel’s GM, Michael Shcmitt.

V Villas opens one bedroom pool villas THE luxury V Villas Hua Hin Resort has opened 10 new One Bedroom Pool Villas perfect for honeymooners and couples looking for a romantic retreat. Located at the front of the resort, overlooking an infinity pool and the beach, the new villas each cover 260 sq.m and feature a large comfortable bedroom with king-sized bed, en suite bathroom with rain shower and twin Jacuzzi, spacious living room with Bose home entertainment system, wine cellar, elegant dining room, and a private garden with swimming pool, sun loungers and tables. ☎ 02 309 3939 :facebook.com/vvillashuahin

Valentine’s treats at Pier 49 PIER 49 Restaurant at G Hua Hin Resort and Mall is offering a Valentine’s four-course set menu featuring Tuna salad with feta and crispy parmesan cheese; Cream of pumpkin soup with ravioli; Poached sea bass white wine butter sauce with garden vegetables and saffron rice; and Fruit salad with Amaretto. B999++ for two inclusive of a glass of house wine per person; or B1,200++ for two inclusive of a glass of sparkling wine or rose per person. ☎ 03 251 5199 ext. 5 :ghuahin.com

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BANYAN Golf Club’s monthly golf and wine events are a must visit for golfers and foodies alike. This month the fun tees off, albeit without golf, on Feb 14 with the Valentine’s Bubbles & Beer Sundowners night, featuring free-flow Prosecco and draught beer served alongside luxury canapés (B1,500 per couple. 5pm-6.30pm). This is followed on Sun Feb 16 with the club’s signature Golf & Wine Dinner, featuring tee times from 12.30pm and a gourmet dinner with wine (B4,300 for golf and dinner; B2,100 for dinner early). For a real luxury experience, try the Valentine’s Secret Hideaway Package. Available throughout Feb, this deal offers one night’s stay in a Club Suite for B7,500 per couple inclusive of one sunset dinner with a bottle of Prosecco, and breakfast. ☎ 03 261 6200 :banyanthailand.com

Captain Doug’s open for business WITH a good selection of ice-cold beers (including Guinness served just as it should be), huge TVs showing live sports, and a hearty range of pub snacks like Chicken wings drizzled with tongue-tingling sauce, Captain Doug’s Pub & Guesthouse has opened in Khao Takiab Beach offering thirsty expats and locals a homely place to hang out every day of the week. Taking its name from its affable Canadian owner, Doug, the pub is set in a three-storey orange house just opposite the turning for Soi Mooban Huadon towards Anantasila by the Sea. Captain Doug’s Pub & Guesthouse, Kao Takiep Beach ☎ 09 2791 7879 :philippedoug@mac.com

H u aH in D ini ng Lem ongrass

Review

Lemongrass Restaurant & Bar

Gourmet cuisine and stunning sunsets are just two of the highlights at Banyan The Resort’s splendid restaurant and bar

BANYAN The Resort occupies one of the most beautiful areas of Hua Hin. Nestled between verdant rolling hills in a private valley far removed from any ugsome form of pollution – blaring music, bright lights, petrol fumes coughed and spluttered from bikes and cars – it’s a true haven of relaxation, one where you can really hear yourself think, where time seems to flow at a more reasonable pace, and where, on a cloudless night, you can marvel at a vista of a million and more stars. It’s also a place where you can enjoy some top notch gourmet cuisine made using prime international ingredients lovingly prepared and paired with some of Thailand’s finest produce. Factor in a fine selection of old and new world wines, cold beers on draught, and innovative exclusive cocktails, and you have the

recipe for a great dining experience that’s well worth the drive out of town. Called Lemongrass Restaurant & Bar, the resort’s all-day dining restaurant is open daily from 6.30am-11pm and serves an enticing buffet breakfast, lunch and dinner menus of Thai and Italian cuisine, and a good selection of mouth-watering steaks and burgers. Adjoined to the restaurant is the Lemongrass Bar, a family-friendly sports bar, open from 9am-11pm, which serves international and Thai snacks and features a pool table, darts board, and Nintendo Wii games system. Bold, clean flavours abound at Lemongrass Restaurant. Dishes like Braised lamb shank, and Tasmanian salmon with zucchini pancakes, arrive at the table artfully presented and redolent

Banyan The Resort, Hua Hin, 68/223 Hua Na, Nong Gae, Petchkasem Road,

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with rich, alluring aromas; love at first sight, and at first bite. Lighter options, such as the Chicken, mango and avocado salad, are just as impressive – healthy yet still full of bountiful flavour. Burger fans, meanwhile, should definitely wrap their chops around the meaty and marvelous Banyan burger, while steak fans will be delighted with a stab at the Angus beef tenderloin 'Rossini.' Just perfect when served medium rare. A must visit this month is the restaurant’s Valentine’s Day Promotion (actually held over two days: Thurs Feb 13 at B2,499 for two persons with a bottle of Prosecco; and Fri Feb 14 at B1,499 for two persons), which will feature a set gourmet dinner menu and a special performance by the Trio Jazz Band.

☎ 03 253 8888 :banyanthailand.com

H u aH in Pr om oti on

Review

Veranda Lodge

Family-run resort offers cozy accommodation in the heart of Hua Hin Beach

NO matter how hard they try, big international hotel chains can never fully replicate the kind of homely atmosphere you find at a family-run operation such as Veranda Lodge, a lovely tropical getaway located next to the sands in the middle of Hua Hin Beach. Run with passion, heart, and soul by Khun Mae (literally Mum) together with her grown-up children, Veranda Lodge has developed from what was once the family’s beachside home to become a moderatelysized resort featuring a selection of suites, bungalows and villas, all set within wonderfully manicured gardens. The stars of the resort’s accommodation options include Veranda on Sea – a 40sqm beachside villa with a private sea view balcony; and the 62sqm Balcony Suite, which boasts a large bedroom and separate living room making it perfect for families with young children.

The rooms lower down the accommodation pecking order (simply because they’re slightly smaller and not on the beachfront), however, do not disappoint. Each comes equipped with all the modern conveniences one could need to make their stay an enjoyable one – air-con, refrigerator, Satellite TV, DVD player, tea and coffee making facilities, a wonderfully comfy bed, etc. Factor in the privacy of the gardens, where the only sounds outside of daytime hotel operations include a nightly lullaby of cricket chirps and a daily morning call of birdsong, and the feeling of seclusion is wonderful – especially if you’re used to the constant clamor and clatter of Sukhumvit. At the heart of the resort lies a large, private swimming pool with its own bar serving refreshments, sandwiches and snacks daily from 10am-5pm. Beyond this, located on a platform next to the beach, is

Veranda Lodge Hua Hin, 113 Soi Hua Hin 67, Petch Kasem Rd.

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the resort’s casual dining gem, the Veranda Grill, a rustic eatery where you can get your hands sticky tucking into fresh seafood, succulent steaks, international favourites, and local delicacies – all prepared using recipes carefully honed over the years by Khun Mae. Want to elicit a genuine groan of delight? Order the Sea bass with Thai herbal sauce (B350), or Chicken curry (B240), or Tenderloin steak with mushroom sauce (B380), or Pork chop with butter and herb sauce (B350), or simply order them all and wonder how you’ll ever eat again; portions here are huge and great value for money. And very delicious too. Room rates at Veranda Lodge start at just B3,200 per night in a Deluxe Room (weekday), and special promotions and deals are regularly listed on the resort’s website (see below).

☎ 032 533 678 :verandalodge.com

H u aH in D ini ng Out

Review

The Admiral Bar & Grill

Premium steaks and seafood served on volcanic rocks set the scene for a great night of dining at this new restaurant

HUA HIN’s dining scene has been given a sizzling boost with the arrival of The Admiral on Damnernkaseam Road. Specializing in premium cuts of New Zealand and Australian beef, lamb, and tuna, all served up on searing 300 degree volcanic stones, this family-friendly establishment has been carefully crafted to offer a memorable dining experience that beats back hunger in delicious fashion – and at great value too. Stones are served with a choice of side dishes and a variety of sauces, including spicy chimchuri, barbecue and sautéed onion, and a variety of others on request, such as peppercorn or thick blue cheese. What’s more, alongside the sizzling

stones the restaurant also offers a wide range of international cuisines, including a wonderful Scandinavian smørrebrød of pickled herring, warm home-made liver pâté and freshly peeled shrimp with mayonnaise and caviar, to mention a few, accompanied by a traditional selection of Akvavit. Diners can tuck into local favourites such as Pad Krapao Moo (Spicy fried pork) and Kaeng Kiao Wan Nua (Green curry with beef ), whisk their palates to Italy with a vast selection of pizzas and pasta dishes, and even experience the taste of traditional America by wrapping their mouths around the whopping Admiral’s Burger – a meaty monster made with

200g Premium Angus Beef. Flame grilled to perfection, no less. The Admiral’s drinks selection is just as impressive, featuring a decent range of cold beers on draught as well as an extensive wine list featuring top labels from around the globe. Starting mid-February, guest sommeliers and winemakers from Chile, Europe and Australia will host free winetastings every Saturday evening from 5pm-6pm. It’s the perfect way to end a round of golf or a day at the beach and to get ready for the evening to come. For more details about the restaurant and the food and drinks on offer, visit www.theadmiralhuahin.com.

19/6 Damnernkaseam Rd. Soi 61, Hua Hin (next to the Post Office). Open Mon-Fri 11am-Midnight; Sat-Sun 9am-Midnight

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☎ 03 290 8345 :theadmiralhuahin.com

Accommodation

Hua Hin Where to eat Hagi Restaurant

Oceanside Beach Club Cocktails

■ Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas’ trendy Japanese restaurant is renowned for taking authentic traditional dishes and presenting them with innovative flair. The restaurant’s experienced chefs bring together a delicious array of the freshest produce to create highlights such as Spicy Sushi Roll, Gyuniku Nikomi, and Yaki Maguro, as well as Teppanyaki meats served up grill-side at a dedicated 16-seater kitchen. Open daily from 5pm - 12am.

■ Set in the beautiful Putahracsa Hua Hin resort, this relaxing beachfront restaurant offers a great selection of international food, drinks and music. You can tuck into seafood with piquant Thai sauces or devour huge slabs of meat fresh from the grill. The Jumbo Tiger prawns, Rock lobster, and New Zealand lamb chops score particularly good marks here. Other bonuses include a great sea view, and a long list of delightfully boozy cocktails. Open 5pm onwards.

Damnernkasem Road intersection. Tel: 032 512 021-38

22/65 Nahb Kaehat Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 531 470

Rocks Restaurant

La Paillotte

■ This chic all-day-dining restaurant at the Cape Nidhra Hotel, Hua Hin offers a delectable selection of Italian and French favourites together with other international cuisines and local favourites. Designed to enhance a visitor’s holiday experience, this eatery provides a relaxing atmosphere and great a nice view out over the beach. The breakfast buffet is priced at 600 baht. If you stop by in the afternoon, Pavlova is a must to accompany an English Afternoon Tea set. Open 6.30am - 11pm.

■ This charming French restaurant is the ideal place to enjoy an evening of fine food in relaxed surroundings. The fresh and colourful décor brings to mind citrus-scented Mediterranean evenings, as do the excellent range of aperitifs, wines, beers and digestifs. Although the culinary roots of La Paillote’s cuisine are classically French, the kitchen team enhances a rich culinary tradition with contemporary touches. An a la carte menu and nine set menus are available. Open daily from 11am till late.

97/2 Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 516 600

174/1 Naresdamri Road, 77110 Tel: 032 521025

Chom Talay

■ This delightful beachfront restaurant is a great spot for alfresco dining. Pushed up against the water’s edge it has an easy going charm, good food and drink. The menu features a wide selection of delicious seafood dishes. Of note is the stir fried mud crab with X.O. sauce. A piquant tom yam with fresh prawns, pineapple and the flesh of young coconut offers an interesting variation on a classic dish. Open from 11am till 10pm. Phetkasem Road, Hua Hin, (next to the airport). Tel: 032 547 253-4

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Beach Cafe Restaurant

■ After a hard week of work in Bangkok you deserve a treat! Watch the perfect day on the beach transcend into a unique candlelit dining experience with your loved one. The restaurant offers excellent steaks and seafood plus an unrivaled choice of cocktails and outstanding wines at reasonable prices. The only non-hotel affiliated restaurant on Hua Hin’s main beach offers great value for money. Soi Hua Hin 75/1 by the sea, Prachaubkirikhan 77110, Open Mon – Sun 10am – 10pm. www.beachcaferestaurant.com

Accommodation

Hua Hin Where to drink Fountain Lounge

Lotus Sky Bar

■ AN ideal place to meet with friends for an afternoon or evening of relaxation and drinks, Hyatt Regency Hua Hin’s open air bar overlooks the resort’s lush tropical gardens and exudes a cozy atmosphere. As you’d expect from a 5-star hotel, the bar offers a wide selection of superior teas, fresh juices, cocktails and light snacks.

■ This vibrant roof top bar at the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa serves up a great variety of innovative and classic cocktails and boasts superb panoramic views of Hua Hin and the Gulf of Thailand. Live DJs keep the atmosphere upbeat and draw in a young, lively crowd every night of the week. The bar is open daily 6pm-11pm.

91 Hua Hin – Khao Takiap Road Tel: 032 521 234 www.huahin.regency.hyatt.com

Tel: 032 538 999 email: fb.huahin@hilton.com www.facebook.com/lotusskybar

Oceanside Beach Club Cocktails ■ Set in the beautiful Putahracsa Hua Hin resort, this relaxing beachfront restaurant offers a great selection of international food, drinks and music. You can tuck into seafood with piquant Thai sauces or devour huge slabs of meat fresh from the grill. The Jumbo Tiger prawns, Rock lobster, and New Zealand lamb chops score particularly good marks here. Other bonuses include a great sea view, and a long list of delightfully boozy cocktails. Open 5pm onwards. 22/65 Nahb Kaehat Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 531 470

Sala Wine Bar and Bistro ■ No visit to Hua Hin is complete without a trip up to Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, home of the award winning Monsoon Valley Wines. Here you can journey into the vineyards to learn more about New Latitude Wines, or simply head straight to the winery’s Bistro, which is housed in a beautiful sala and serves a wide range of Thai and international eats and, of course, Siam Winery’s finest wines. An onsite shop sells premium Thai wines, souvenirs and other quality grape-based products. Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, Tel: 081 701 8874-5, 081 701 2222, 081 701 0444 www.huahinhillsvineyard.com

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Mondo Vino

■ This stylish-yet-casual wine bar should be the top of any oenophile’s list of places to visit in Hua Hin. You’ll find a large range of wines from new and old worlds (with an emphasis on Italian brands), available by the glass or bottle at more than reasonable prices. Accompanying the premium wines is a selection of cold cuts, cheeses, fresh hams, pizza, and pasta. Monthly promotions and wine tastings mean there is always something exciting going on here – simply check the website to keep up to date. Tel: 032 531 493 www.mondovino.co.th

Dune Sky Bar

■ Located on the rooftop of the boutique Dune Hotel, the Dune Sky Bar offers sweeping views of Hua Hin and is a great place to drop by for boozy cocktails and tasty international eats. Recently given a New York-inspired overhaul, the bar is stylishly furnished with eco-friendly furniture, including dining chairs made of recycled plastic bottles. Chilled out beats and subdued lighting make this one of the hippest relaxed hangouts in town. Dune Hotel Hua Hin, Tel: 032 515 051-3 email: md@dunehuahin.com

Banyan starts the year in style BANYAN The Resort, Hua Hin welcomed 2014 in grand style with a Thai classical show, cabaret performance, food and drinks, and a spectacular firework show. Adding to the fun was a lucky draw packed with fabulous prizes, including a two nights’ stay at Banyan The Resort, a round of golf at Banyan Golf Club, Hua Hin, golf gift sets, spa treatment vouchers, and more.

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COAST PATTAYA

Kok Chang • Wong Amat • Jomtien • Bang Saray • Sattahip • Rayong

Enjoy gourmet food and a spectacular view this Valentine’s Day at Horizon. Page 134.

News & Deals

The Eastern Seaboard’s hottest dining and hotel promotions Page 134

Silverlake

The Silverlake Music Festival returns bigger and better than ever Page 134

Gourmet

Superb views and Italian cuisine set the scene for great dining at Rufﬁno Page 136 TheBigChilli 133

Pa tt a ya

N ews and Deals

Romantic dining by the beach AN EXCLUSIVE five-course Valentine’s set menu, each course paired with a fine wine, will be available on Feb 14 for dinner at the Holiday Inn Pattaya’s beachfront restaurant, Terrazzo. The meal begins in bubbly style with a glass of sparkling wine before diners embark on a culinary journey especially created for the evening. B4,999 per couple. ☎ 038 725 555 :holidayinn.com

Food for lovers at Hilton CELEBRATE Valentine’s Day with a blend of impressive sea views and gourmet dining at the Hilton Pattaya’s flagship restaurants. A four-course Thai set dinner will be available at Flare for B2,222 per couple, and a four-course set menu at Horizon for B5,550 per couple (the first 10 reservations will receive a complimentary glass of Moët & Chandon). Later in the evening, Horizon will host a “French Affair” party featuring music by DJ Nicestyle and romantic prizes from Moët & Chandon. ☎ 038 253 000 :hilton.com

Silverlake Music Festival

Peking duck at its best PEKING duck takes centre stage this month at Cape Dara Resort Pattaya’s Ming Xing Restaurant, which is offering this much-loved dish for the special price of B750 (normally B1,500), including one dish of tender duck meat prepared just as you like. Choices include Wok-fried Peking duck with sweet and sour sauce, Stir-fried Peking duck with Chinese pickle, Sun-dried Peking duck tossed with holy basil, and more. Available daily for lunch (at 11am-2pm) and dinner (at 6pm-10pm). ☎ 038 933 888 :capedarapattaya.com

NINE Inch Nails, The Hives, Foals, and Taking Back Sunday are just some of the big international bands signed up to perform at this year’s Silverlake Music Festival (March 1 at Silverlake Vineyard). For more info and details about tickets see page 82.

Citadines to open in Chonburi THE Citadines Grand Central Sri Racha, a 133-unit serviced residence managed by The Ascott Limited, is set to open later this year in Sri Racha district, Chonburi province. Conveniently located close to retail outlets such as Robinson department store, restaurants, international schools, and medical facilities, the serviced residence will offer a choice of studios, and one and two-bedroom apartments that come with a fully-equipped kitchen, separate work and living areas, as well as modern amenities. Other facilities include gymnasium, swimming pool and an onsen (a Japanese-style hot spring). :the-ascott.com

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N ews and Deals

Tasty Valentine’s at ibis Pattya HEADS up lovebirds. A Valentine’s Thai and International dinner will be available at the ibis Pattaya hotel on Feb 14-15 priced a reasonable B369 per person (includes one carafe of wine, and coffee and tea). ☎ 038 418 188 ibis.com

New chef in town

Children’s parties made easy at Amari Italian seafood on a high SUPERB views and gourmet Italian cuisine set the scene for a great night of dining at Ruffino, the new Restaurant & Lounge perched atop the recently opened Centara Grand Phratamnak Hotel. Inspired by different parts of Italy’s coastline, the restaurant’s debut menu is brimming with seafood options such as Grilled zesty and spicy mussels served with prosciutto flavoured bread crumbs, and Sardine ‘beccafico,’ Sicilian-style sweet and sour stuffed sardines with tomato, red onion, olives and capers tossed in oregano; as well as gourmet takes on rustic dishes like Saffron fettuccine with pork cheek, truffle, scallops and mushrooms. Along with the extensive selection of Ruffino wines is a wide choice of wines from around the world. Open daily for lunch from 12pm-3pm and for dinner from 6.30pm-10.30pm. ☎ 038 306 337 centarahotelsresorts.com

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PARENTS looking to host a hassle free children’s birthday party should check out Amari Orchid Pattaya. The hotel’s ‘Kids Cave & Teen Town’ offers a supervised play-area packed full of fun activities. Simply book for ten kids or more and the hotel will arrange everything – food, drinks, games, activities and party favours. Among the games offered are children’s party classics such as Musical Chairs and Pass the Parcel. ☎ 038 418 418 Ext. 722

THE management of Dusit Thani Pattaya has appointed British national Alistair Carter as the hotel’s Executive Chef. With more than 22 years’ experience in the trade, Chef Alistair has worked in respected restaurants in London, Monaco, Georgia (USA), and Macau, and prior to taking on his new role he was Executive Chef of Fairmont Heliopolis & Towers in Cairo, Egypt. At the Dusit Thani Pattaya he will oversee all of the hotel’s culinary operations, which includes three restaurants, two pool bars, two lounges, a gourmet bakery, and outside catering service.

Motorbike spectacular THE premier championship of motocross racing will bring top international riders to the kingdom next month for three-days of action-packed racing at PinThong 3 Industrial Estate in Chonburi. Find more info on page 84.

Tr a vel

D ea ls and Promotion s GLOW Trinity Silom: Until the

s ’ e t a M s rate

family r o s d n Frie land? i a h T g visitin now about k Let them e deals thes

end of 2014, a ‘Stay 6 Nights and Save 20%’ package offers rates starting at B1,680 per night for a Superior Room with Wi-Fi. The promotion is also valid for a Deluxe Room. ☎ 02 231 5050 glowbyzinc.com/silom

Shangri-La Hotel: A ‘Hot Deal’ promotion available until March 31 offers rates for a Deluxe Room at B4,500++ per room per night. The package includes daily breakfast buffet for two. ☎ 02 206 8788 shangri-la.com/bangkok

Hua Chang Heritage Hotel: Until Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit: Until Apr 30, the hotel’s ‘Great Value Package’ offers special deals on rooms booked five days in advance via the hotel’s website. The packages include breakfast, Wi-Fi, and B1,000 dining credit for the hotel’s rooftop restaurant, Maya. ☎ 02 683 4888 holidayinn.com/bangkok22

Apr 30, the hotel’s ‘Summer Promotion’ package offers one night’s stay in a Premier Deluxe room at B5,000 for two adults and two children (inclusive of one extra bed for children under 12). Package includes daily breakfast buffet for four, complimentary ice-cream for two children, Wi-Fi, welcome drinks and late check out. ☎ 02 217 0777 huachangheritagehotel.com

The Eugenia Hotel & Spa: Until Feb 21, a ‘Romance Valentine’s Package’ offers rates starting at B9,005++ per night for a Siam Suite (with free upgrade to Wattana Suite, if available). Highlights include daily set breakfast for two, a five-course Romance Set Dinner Menu with two glasses of Champagne, and airport drop-off (one-way) with The Eugenia’s vintage car. Online booking only at www.theeugenia. com/offers.html. ☎ 02 259 9011 theeugenia.com

X2 Kui Buri: Available for booking and valid for stays until Oct 31, a ‘Hello Kui Buri’ deal offers rates starting at B5,947++ per night per two persons for a Deluxe Pool Villa. Highlights include daily Champagne breakfast for two, one set dinner, a roundtrip transfer between Suvarnabhumi Airport and the resort, and more. Deal applies to a minimum stay of three nights. ☎ 032 601 412 X2LOBBY.com Mode Sathorn Hotel: Until Dec 15, any guest who books

a two-night stay valued at B6,500++ will qualify for the ‘Your Own Way Sense of Spa Package’ featuring a choice of 60-min body scrub, 60-min body massage, or 90-min facial treatment. Guests who book a three-nights’ stay valued at B6,500++ will receive the same package plus an additional 180-mins signature treatment at Spa Ten at Siam@Siam (round-trip transfer included). Both packages include daily breakfast for two. ☎ 02 623 4555 Ext. 1055 modesathorn.com

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Soﬁtel Bangkok Sukhumvit: Valid for stays until Feb

28, the hotel’s ‘Bangkok Confidential’ package offers three-nights’ stay in its Prestige Suite for two people at B34,000. The package includes two Immortelle Secret to Brightness spa treatments and a gourmet dinner for two at L’Appart rooftop restaurant. ☎ 02 126 9999 sofitel-sukhumvit.com

WE HAVE TAKEN PATTAYA REAL ESTATE TO NEW HEIGHTS

GUIDING GUID GUI DING Y YOU OU TO A NEW HOME HERE ARE SOME OF THE DEVELOPERS WHO CHOOSE COMPASS AS THEIR PREFERRED AGENT

www.compass

bangkok .com, www.compass

thailand .com