The Bangkok BigChilli. September 2013.

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FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT IN BANGKOK

September 2013 08 INSIGHT News, letters, gossip and more 23 PATPONG’S FAVOURITE SON Tim Young remembered 29 GOURMET A round up of all the best restaurant deals and gourmet events in Bangkok 36 FISH OFF THE MENU Get ready to change your eating habits 48 SCOTCH ON THE ROCKS Special report by Maxmilian Wechsler 63 EXPAT WOMEN Health, shopping, people, and advice 80 TAXI! Why everybody should hail Bangkok’s cabbies 87 WHAT’S ON Exhibitions, performance, sport, networking – we’ve got this month’s best events all wrapped up 99 SOCIAL Last month’s best events in pictures 117 DIPLOMATS The Philippines Ambassador talks about her country’s relationship with Thailand 123 HUA HIN Deals and news 133 PATTAYA Hot news from the Eastern Seaboard

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The courageous Thai-American who is an example to us all

IT’S impossible not to experience wave upon wave of admiration for Ladda Tammy Duckworth, the first Asian-American woman elected to the United States Congress in Illinois, the first disabled woman to be elected to the US House of Representatives, and the first member of Congress born in Thailand.

This amazingly brave woman lost both of her legs during the Iraq War in 2004 when her Black Hawk helicopter was hit by a rocket-propelled grenade. She is the first female double amputee from that conflict. Duckworth received a Purple Heart and was promoted to Major.

Asked whether she felt her sacrifice was for naught, Duckworth responded: “I was hurt in service for my country. I was proud to go. It was my duty as a soldier to go. And I would go tomorrow.”

Fitted for prosthetics, she is now fully mobile and a very active politician.

Born in Bangkok in 1968 to a Thai-Chinese mother and father of British descent, she briefly attended the International School Bangkok (ISB).

Sharp-minded, intelligent and extremely articulate, she demonstrated her profound sense of fair play during a recent Government hearing when she eviscerated a federal contractor who claimed that a high school sports injury had rendered him a service-disabled veteran.

Fluent in Thai, Duckworth is an active member of various Thai-American communities in the US and proud of her Thai heritage.

During her recent visit to Bangkok, Duckworth met Prime Minister Yingluk Shinawatra. Hopefully her almost miraculous achievements will be recognized by a nation desperately short of genuine heroes.

Could Patpong’s spiral extend to Soi 11?

PATPONG and Sukhumvit Soi 11 are two roads with a lot in common. Both are entertainment areas popular with locals and tourists. Both have set the bar at one time or another for what partygoers want from their nightlife. And while it could be argued that Patpong’s heydays are long gone, the same fate may also be awaiting Soi 11.

Patpong, especially during the past decade, has become a victim of its own success and popularity. So much so that this

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rather short thoroughfare has attracted far more businesses than it can possibly handle. Vendors have taken over not only the main street but, along with all kinds of hustlers and taxi drivers trying to woo passengers, have almost closed the Silom entrance to this once world-famous strip. A casual stroll down Patpong is a thing of the past. Being there amongst so much activity is no longer pleasant. Even getting in is difficult! The golden goose is dying, if not already dead.

Now the same strangulation is affecting Soi 11. The road is almost always blocked with traffic and the kerbside vendors have taken over virtually the entire sidewalk with their seats and cooking pots. To walk down Soi 11 is to take your life in your hands. And people are being turned off this once very promising street. The authorities may not be able to control what happens in Patpong as it is privately-owned, but they can certainly bring some order to Soi 11. No one wants to see its street life completely disappear, but some order is definitely needed.

Celebrate the political differences THE catchword in Thai politics these days is reconciliation.

Ideally, the two main opposition parties should forget their differences and work together in unity, or so goes the argument.

But is that really what Thailand needs right now? Do we actually want an administration that has no checks or balances? Without opposing views, beliefs and interests, aren’t we on a dangerous path to some kind of autocracy? Instead of decrying differences, we should embrace them. It’s much healthier for this country.

The real challenge is to educate people in this respect. And to teach them to wait their turn, like a real democracy.

Warnings from LMIM collapse THE collapse of LM Investment Management (LMIM) in Australia spells disaster for the many expatriates in Thailand who were encouraged to invest in its mortgage funds. They stand to lose their savings and their future. One suspects, however, that this is not a one-off. The global recession is bound to hit many other similar investment schemes. It was all very well when economies across the world were looking good and returns on investment were more or less guaranteed.

Unfortunately, that’s no longer the case. So watch out.

TheBigChilli

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PUBLISHER Colin Hastings editorbigchilli@gmail.com MANAGING EDITOR Adam Purcell adambigchilli@gmail.com EDITOR Nina Hastings ninabigchilli@gmail.com ASSISTANT EDITOR Chutinanta Boonyamarn nanbigchilli@gmail.com SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Rojjana Rungrattwatchai sendtorose@gmail.com ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Thana Pongsaskulchoti thanabigchilli@gmail.com ACCOUNTING MANAGER Saranya Choeyjanya fatcatbigchilli@gmail.com ART & PRODUCTION Arthawit Pundrikapa, Jaran Lakawat PHOTOGRAPHY Mini Bike Gang, David Heischrek and WJ CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anette Pollner, Johanna DeKoning, Judith Coulson, Martine Olthof, Maxmilian Wechsler, Paul Hewitt

Our online handle is ‘thebigchillimagazine’. Simply type this into Facebook’s search box, find the image of our magazine, then just click add.

We are now on Twitter. Find out what’s happening around town, which events to attend, parties to be seen at, and read all the juicy gossip!

Follow us at ‘TheBigChilliMag’ No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from The BigChilli Co., Ltd. The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily the views of the publishers. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the publisher, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. The editor reserves the right to accept, reject or amend any submitted artwork, photographs, illustrations and manuscripts.

The BigChilli welcomes unsolicited contributions but assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of such materials damaged or lost in transit.

The BigChilli Company Ltd., 1/7 5th Fl. Room 504, Siboonrueng Bldg. 2, Convent Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02 233 1774-6, 02 266 7141 Fax: 02 235 0174 e-mail: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

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Inbox|Have your say

letters Insight

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HAVE YOUR SAY! Write to us at: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

WHEN CRIME PAYS

STRAIGHT FROM THE ART ■ AS someone who is passionate about the fine arts and art galleries, I find your Exhibitions section very insightful and useful for me. It’s always refreshing to have many options when it comes to art shows and galleries, so thank you for informing me about the many wonderful exhibitions to visit. I was also pleased to see The BigChilli encouraging readers to view art outside of Bangkok – the ‘Art in Paradise’ attraction in Pattaya (Aug 2013) looks lots of fun. Keep up the good work!

Salisa Britton, Bangkok

■ ABOUT a year ago I noticed your magazine in one of Bangkok’s most popular pubs. The stunning layout grabbed my attention and I decided to ‘borrow’ the glossy magazine, secretly put it in my bag, and never brought it back.

Even today I don’t regret my ‘crime’ because it has changed my life in so many ways! I used to hang out with Thais a lot because I was born and raised in this country and I went to local schools but to be honest I’ve always felt different. (I am the son of a Swedish mother and Russian father so besides the fact that I look western I also have strong western roots as well). The BigChilli Mag brought me in contact with many ‘farangs’ who are in the same position. I don’t feel like a stranger any longer.

Many thanks!

Sven, Pattaya

A HEAVY PROBLEM

PRAISE ALL ROUND ■ CONGRATULATIONS on a great issue of The BigChilli (August 2013).

The BigChilli always has great pictures, great gossip, coverage on Thai glitterati and Thai cuisine and also about places worth visiting. Basically it has a bit about everything happening in and around Bangkok.

I know pictures generally enhance the beauty of a place or person, but great pictures can only be taken by professionals like the one your magazine has. I look forward to the monthly segment on diplomats and Ambassadors in Bangkok. Last month (June issue) it was the Nigerian Ambassador and this time (July issue) it is the Bhutanese Ambassador. I would like to thank you for providing information about this remarkable yet little known country.

Tashi Wangchuk, Huay Kwang

■ YOUR story on obesity amongst young Thais was interesting, though hardly surprising. To get an idea of how bad the country’s once healthy diet is being corrupted, observe the after-school eating habits of young Thai children. Almost to a person, they buy sweet drinks and all kinds of mostly fried snacks from a plethora of vendors lying in wait outside their schools. It’s partly peer-pressure, and partly bad parental guidance that allows these youngsters to indulge in such poor quality foodstuffs. The schools themselves should take some of the blame for tolerating these vendors to set up shop outside the school gates. I wouldn’t be surprised too if few of these young people take regular exercise. Obesity on this scale is a ticking time bomb for this country.

Thailand should learn from many western nations which are facing huge social and financial problems because of poor diets and eating habits.

Jake W, Bangkok

READ THE BIGCHILLI FOR FREE ONLINE www.issuu.com/thebigchilli www.thebigchilli.com

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News|Snippets

Despite the occasional crackdowns and promises to tighten the current laws, pirated products – including pornographic and other types of DVD movies and computer software – are still manufactured and sold at the same places they have been for decades in Bangkok. A quick walk through Pantip Plaza will confirm this.

The driver of a foreign diplomat disappeared with an embassy car for several days. After the embassy contacted police, they found the driver with his girlfriend in the provinces. He said that he wanted to show the fancy wheels to his family and girlfriend. This driver was fired.

Good driving habits are disappearing rapidly.

This is obviously due to the enormous increase in the number of cars on Bangkok’s roads (thank the government for that – especially as it has occurred without a corresponding increase in additional roads!) and drivers vent their frustration by behaving badly.

The worst habits include lane-switching without warning; speeding on inside lanes and tailgating.

But if you do come across a suspiciously slow driver, drifting between lanes, it’s almost certainly because he or she is talking on a mobile.

Foreigners are invariably regarded as being wealthy by locals – even when they’re involved in exactly the same business and competing in the same markets as Thais. It’s an impression that’s often wrong, but so difficult to explain.

One way to limit congestion in Bangkok is to ban all new car parks and heavily tax existing ones. People would be forced to take public transport.

Why do the police never arrest or fine motorcycle taxis for riding on footpaths?

Because it is the job of BMA officials, the brown-shirted Thesakij.

The Observer Interesting snippets of life in Bangkok, as witnessed by our team

In the not so recent past, seizures of ya ba, or methamphetamine tablets numbered in the tens of thousands. Nowadays it’s in the hundreds of thousands or even millions. Is it because the police are working better or more illicit drugs are on the market?

High taxes on items like luxury cars and brand name handbags, clothes or watches are understandable because the government has to collect money somehow. But why do they apply to food items like cheese, salami and fruits?

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Why can’t the Transport Ministry build roads with drains that are flush with the main surface? Right now these drains are a real hazard, especially for motorcyclists.

Backpackers should be required to remove their pack before entering a BTS Skytrain and place it on the floor against their legs.

Some of the signs indicating toilets for men and women are sometimes too clever for their own good. Mistakes are understandably made.

Car park attendants can be either be helpful or insolent. If you use the same car park often, it’s a good idea to tip them. They remember, and also tell their colleagues, so next time you come they will find you a parking spot. Don’t argue with them, because they won’t help you find a space next time the car park is full or, worse, you could find a scratch on your car.

A law-abiding foreigner reported the existence of a large casino near Bangkok to several high-ranking policemen, but was told they can’t do anything because it belongs to a “powerful and noisy politician.” However, police didn’t have any problem with raiding a small casino in South Pattaya allegedly run by an American last July. A total of nine foreigners were arrested.

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News|Around town

Expats stand to lose their investments after Australian fund collapses At its peak, LMIM had $3 billion in assets under management across nine funds, operated in 70 countries, with offices in Hong Kong, London, Dubai, Queenstown, Toronto, Johannesburg, Sydney and Bangkok. Its founder, New Zealander Peter Drake, a regular visitor to Bangkok, is now heading for bankruptcy.

One local broker estimated the potential total loss to investors in Thailand at $50 million.

Drake is said to have taken at least $46 million in loans from LMIM before declaring voluntary insolvency. He owns properties in Australia and Fiji.

Meanwhile, it has been reported by The Age newspaper in Melbourne that the financial advisers responsible for selling the now-frozen funds stand to collect commissions before their clients see any return. This is disputed by some Bangkok IFAs.

■ SCORES of expatriates in Thailand who invested in mortgage funds managed by LM Investment Management (LMIM) face losing all their money after the Australian-based company collapsed earlier this year and was placed into the hands of administrators.

Most of Thailand’s independent financial advisers (IFAs) are believed to have sold at least one of LMIM’s funds to clients here.

They include the Managed Performance Fund (MPF), which is evidently causing the greatest anguish to local investors, although it is still in operation.

One expatriate commented: “I am furious, as you can imagine, and I’m not optimistic about getting any of my money back.” Other local investors affected by the collapse – one of the biggest-ever of its kind – include teachers and small business operators.

IFAs respond

■ IN the wake of LMIM’s failure, offshore IFAs have formed a body called the Advisers Committee for Investors (ACI), which has produced a damning viewpoint to its members highlighting multiple failures within the Australian regulatory system.

The ACI, which comprises IFAs operating in Europe, the Middle East and

Southeast Asia, says its objective is to get the best possible result for investors from the LM crisis.

The Committee believes its members have been let down by Australian authorities on their regulation of LMIM as well as its owners on several levels.

A press release says: “ACI’s investors are largely (but not exclusively) invested in LM’s Managed Performance Fund (MPF). As of last week, the Membership of the ACI accounted for over 35% of

Paid a bribe? Post your experience on a website BRIBERY of officials and civil servants in Thailand is illegal – and yet there’s no denying it happens on occasions.

For some, it can offer a shortcut past unnecessary and time-wasting bureaucracy; for many others, though, it is an irritating and generally undeserved expense.

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all investors in that fund, and if all the pledges for Membership are activated there is a reasonable expectation that the Membership will rise to well over 50% of investors in the MPF.

“ACI investors are like any group of investors. Investments were made from ‘hard earned’ monies into a G20 nation with a reputation for solid consumer protection and regulatory controls. In short they trusted Australia but have been let down.”

Now, in an attempt to end petty bribery, a new application has been launched as part of an international initiative to crack down on corruption of this kind. Bribespot Thailand empowers the general public to respond when they encounter public sector bribery.

The response can be made via the website (www.bribespot. com/thailand) or via a smart phone application, initially for Android devices and shortly for iPhones.

Bribespot, which is based in Europe and brings together developers from Baltic States, Austria, Germany, and the US, says its intention is to alter the mindset of the general public, so that corruption is no longer regarded as a norm which they have no power to change and must silently accept.

Dozens of actual incidents can be viewed on the website, which is in English and Thai.

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Holiday Inn to get the Maggie Choo’s treatment ■ STAND by for Ashley Sutton’s

latest creation – another mind-blowing restaurant on the ground floor of the Holiday Inn, Sukhumvit 22. Construction on the still un-named project is well under way and looks set to open before Christmas.

Ashley is the driving force behind some of Bangkok’s most unusual restaurants and nightclubs, including Iron Fairies, Clouds, Fat Gut’z, Mr. Jones’ Orphanage, The Bookshop and Maggie Choo’s.

Bed building up for sale ■ FOR more than a

decade, Bed Supper Club reigned supreme as Bangkok’s premier nightclub. Now closed, the icon building is up for sale for a cool five million baht. That may not sound expensive, but the price does not include fixtures and fittings as these will have to be removed and probably destroyed when the building itself is deconstructed. Bed’s founder Sanya Souvanna Phouma is not interested in reopening the club elsewhere. “I’ve had enough of nightclubs,” he says. “Besides, I would design another nightclub in a completely different way.” Sanya, who is also involved in Maggie Choo’s and Quince, has had several offers for the building from interested parties in Thailand and Vietnam.

Crepes and Gianni on the move?

■ FROM the RUMOUR MILL: Crepes and

Co. may open a new branch in Sukhumvit 20…Gianni, one of Bangkok’s most successful Italian restaurants, will be relocated to the Dusit Thani Bangkok shortly. The lease on its premises in Soi Tonson has ended and the building owners want to develop the space themselves. The new Gianni will be located in Il Cielo, the Dusit’s current Italian restaurant.

Burning bright, the Tiger pub ■ ONE of Bangkok’s biggest

pubs, the Red Tiger, has opened on the ground floor of the Rembrandt Hotel. Among its attractions are nine draught beers imported from six different countries, including an IPA or Old Speckled Hen from the UK. Lager drinkers can enjoy Paulaner from Munich and Sapporo from Japan. It also features a large outdoor terrace and private meeting room.

• FORMER England football manager Sven-Goran Eriksson, who once ‘bought’ property in Koh Samui, has claimed that his financial adviser Samir Khan cheated him out of £10m between 2007 and 2010.

Khan has since been declared bankrupt.

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Culture|Jim Thompson

Movie project to reveal new facts about Jim Thompson Director Jay Boccia says he has had access to declassified information about Thailand’s ‘Silk King’ from the US

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ONE of Thailand’s most enduring mysteries – the disappearance of legendary silk pioneer Jim Thompson in the jungles of Malaysia almost 50 years ago – is to be given a startling and potentially controversial makeover in a new movie whose maker claims to have had the chance to read through many previously Classified Documents that were only recently declassified information from the United States Library of Congress.

The project titled ‘The Silk King’ is the brainchild of Bangkok-based film direc-

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tor/producer Jay Boccia, who has based his movie on five years of intensive research and believes he has uncovered many previously undisclosed facts about Thompson’s life in Southeast Asia during one of the region’s most turbulent periods.

So sensitive is some of the information that Jay says he was warned by various people not to disclose what he had learned, suggesting “it was not a smart move.”

For decades, Thompson has been the subject of intense speculation and rumour, particularly with regards to his work as

a spy and his mysterious disappearance.

As an officer in the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), forerunner of the CIA, during World War 2, Thompson carried out extensive covert work in Thailand in the post-war years to help defuse conflicts on the country’s border areas.

He is also revered for revitalizing Thailand’s silk industry and establishing the hugely successful Thai Silk Company in 1948.

Since going missing in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands, Thompson has been >>

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Culture|Jim Thompson

Jay in focus JAY Boccia was born in Cape Town, South Africa, and attended Harrow School and Oxford University in the UK. In 1985 he joined Reuters as a Political Journalist with work stops in Nairobi, Mogadishu and Cape Town.

In 1988 he sold his first Screenplay “Tyger Tyger Burning Bright” which was produced in South Africa starring English actress Kitty Aldridge.

In 1991 he moved to Los Angeles and opened Bianglala Pictures with a Satellite office in Tokyo. Bianglala Pictures focused specifically on the Celebrity Market for Asia and Directed/ Produced numerous award winning television commercials starring the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Brad Pitt, Cameron Diaz, Kevin Costner, Nicholas Cage, John Travolta, Anthony Hopkins, Harrison Ford and George Clooney.

In 2001 Jay Boccia sold Bianglala Pictures and started 24/7 Films in LA, later merging it in 2006 with Notorious Pictures to create the largest Sino/US production house in the US. In 2008 he started 24/7 FILM with a goal to produce feature films. Three years later, he wrote, directed and produced “A Stranger in Paradise” starring Stuart Townsend, Colin Egglesfield and Catalina Sandino Moreno.

In June, 2012 he Executive Produced ‘A Long Way Home” in Nimes, France, a drama starring James Fox and Oscar Winner Brenda Fricker.

In September 2012 he Executive Produced the feature film “Forbidden Ground,” a World War One epic filmed in Australia.

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featured in numerous books, articles, documentaries and films. None has satisfactorily explained how or why he disappeared.

Now Jay believes the new material he has uncovered will show Thompson in a new and very different light, an essential ingredient in a movie that aims to cover some well-trodden story lines.

Jay, a South African of Italian heritage, graduated from Oxford University before joining Reuters as a journalist and then later moving to Los Angeles where he established his own commercial production company Notorious 24/7 until 2009 when he sold the company and came to Bangkok to produce his first feature film.

Since relocating here five years ago, he has played key roles in three independent films, including writing,

Asia during that period prior to the Vietnam war. Many previously unknown facts about Thompson were revealed in these documents. Meanwhile, in Laos we discovered lots of information about OSS and Air America operations in Southeast Asia in the years after the Second World War – some of it good, some of it bad.

“Many other clues surfaced from research we carried out at the Vientiane Library,” he says.

The key to the Thompson legend is, of course, who or what was behind his disappearance. Ask Jay for his explanation, and despite all his newly acquired information, he’s as cagey as the legion of others who have followed this still unsolved saga.

But he does come up with one surprise. “The French were very unhappy with Thompson because of his enormous influence in Southeast Asia.” The source of this new lead, he says, is the existence of a French Secret Service diary which indicated how much of a role Thompson had played in deterring the French from pursuing an invasion of Thailand.

“The Thais will never fully understand just how much Thompson manipulated politics within the entire region,” he adds.

But Jay also accepts that business rivals might have had a hand in Thompson’s disappearance, and goes as far as naming one possible high profile culprit.

He’s also certain that Thompson’s sister’s unsolved murder in the US not long after was more than a coincidence.

Pushed for his personal explanation of this long-running mystery-murder, Jay merely adds to the plot by saying: “I don’t think Jim Thompson died that weekend in the Cameron Highlands.”

As for the movie, the script is ready and all the filming will be done here in Thailand. So who gets to play Thompson? Jay is not saying.

ill never w

s i a h T “The st how u j d n a t s r fully unde pson m much Tho politics ed manipulat ntire region.” e within the

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directing and producing the soon-to-be-released ‘A Stranger in Paradise’ whose actors include British-Thai star Sonia Couling.

“I actually started my research on Jim Thompson before settling here permanently. During various visits to Jim Thompson’s famous house on the klong in Bangkok, I fell in love with the story of a foreigner who managed to integrate so perfectly into Thai society. There were also so many things about his life I could identify with – his love of art, his work for OSS – I worked for Reuters – his appreciation for Thai architecture, his house, so many other things.

“To help my investigations, I hired a researcher in the US who helped me sift through the mounds of recently declassified materials regarding the USA and particularly its involvement in Southeast

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Business|Hotel talk

MEET THE GM: ANDRE BRULHART The new General Manager of Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok shares his views about tourism in Thailand and explains what makes his hotel unique What do you think of Thailand as a tourist destination?

Thailand is one of Asia’s oldest and most developed tourist destinations and remains a favourite for seasoned travellers as well as first time travellers. It guarantees a true Asian experience with varied and extensive activities, and also represents good value for money.

Can Bangkok maintain its popularity as a tourist destination, given its congestion and rising prices?

Congestion is no longer just a problem in Bangkok; other major cities in the region are facing the same problems, if not worse.

The Skytrain and MRT systems mean getting around Bangkok is now easier than ever before and puts us ahead of some other destinations already. To be honest, the city’s hectic nature is, in fact, a crowd puller as the hustle and bustle of Bangkok is what makes the city unique. Despite rising prices, Thailand is still a bargain compared to some other destinations in the area. But more importantly, due to the fact that the quality of services and products provided here remains high, it puts us in first place compared to most other cities.

Which city destination do you see as Bangkok’s biggest rival?

Given we are the most popular city in the world to visit, given recent surveys, I guess that most major international cities of note are now our competitors, like London, New York, Paris and Tokyo. They have their draws for different reasons, but still inspire people to visit them, just like Bangkok.

Andre Brulhart in focus SWISS national Andre Brulhart has over 25 years’ hotel experience in Switzerland, Hawaii and mainly in Asia. Beginning his career at the Hong Kong Hilton in 1987, Mr Brulhart has also held positions at the Kahala Hilton in Honolulu, The Oberoi Bali, The Regent Bangkok, Sofitel Metropole Hanoi, and The Plaza Athenee Bangkok. Prior to joining the recently renovated five-star Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok in August, he was Area General Manager of Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya and as well as the new Centara Grand Modus Resort & Spa Pattaya.

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What are the strengths of the Centara Group?

The strength of the Centara group lies in the diversification of its brands. Few companies offer the full range from budget hotels up to top 5 star properties, from city hotels and convention centres to resorts, which allows us to expand with numerous properties in the same destination.

Additionally, the true Thai hospitality has been our trademark for over 30 years. The rebranding of the hotel division from Central Hotels to Centara Hotels & Resorts has been extremely well received especially by our overseas travel partners, which allowed us to expand at a faster pace than others. Additionally, the centralized management of our organization allows better control of our brand standards to ensure total customer satisfaction at any destination.

What are the main attractions of the Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao?

The main attraction remains the location of this unique property where you can find everything under one roof. We’re close to shopping centers (including the famous Chatuchak weekend market), nearby the Skytrain, are directly linked to the MRT, and have direct connection to the toll way, so we’re a favourite for conventions, exhibitions, business travellers and tourists alike.

And we mustn’t forget our dining experiences.

Since opening 31 years ago the hotel has remained a firm favourite with local diners and international visitors for its wide choice of restaurants, including Chinese, Vietnamese, Japanese, Thai, Italian, as well as our 24-hour all day dining restaurant, Chatuchak Cafe.

Any exciting plans for the hotel this year?

The total renovations of the hotel are now 95% complete.

The last area which will undergo refurbishment is our signature Suan Bua Thai Restaurant and its gardens. Scheduled for completion in 2014, this will be a real oasis in the city, featuring 30-year-old trees, a traditional sala, and a pond with over 100 colourful fish.

Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok 02 541 1234 :centarahotelsresorts.com

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Business|Entrepreneurs NEW COLUMN

EXPAT ENTREPRENEURS In the first of a new column about foreign-owned small and medium enterprises, we talk to Philip Britton of Asianet Insurance and Reinsurance Brokers about his experiences as an expat entrepreneur in Thailand.

Q: How many people do you employ?

A: At the moment we have five employees.

Q: Given your experience here, what advice would you give to others thinking about opening a business here?

A: Be very careful about the regulations. Employ a good book keeper/ accountant, and ensure that you have the right local partner.

Q: If you could go back in time, would you do it all over again?

A: Yes. Q: What or who has been the most valuable source of assistance for you as a small entrepreneur?

A: My local partner, and also due the nature of our business, we have contacts/clients around the world who are looking to work with someone in Thailand that they know.

Q: What is the nature of your business?

A: I am a reinsurance broker and develop carbon credits for the energy industry.

Q: Where is your business currently located?

A: We are based in Bangkok and we service clients in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia Q: You sell your products locally or worldwide?

A: Mostly our clients are global – outside Thailand. These are energy companies in Europe and energy companies in Laos and Myanmar. Our main client base is in Laos and Myanmar and the sellers are in Singapore and Europe.

Q: When did you launch your company?

A: In 2000 Q: Is this your first business venture in Thailand, and what gave you the idea?

A: This is my first business. I came here from London to set up a new business doing what I’d been doing for big companies for 20 years while based in London and Sydney.

Q: Any previous business experience in the UK? A: Yes, I worked for some of the biggest reinsurance brokers in the world such as AEON and MARSH, and then I set up my own business – much smaller than them.

Q: How long did it take you to set up your company?

A: I moved directly from London to Thailand and started the business immediately.

Q: Was it difficult to start up your business here in Thailand?

A: The biggest challenge was - and would be for a new entrant - getting a license because we work in a regulated industry.

Work permits and visas were efficient and quite easy. Staff is unfortunately a never-ending problem.

Q: Did you have any experience in this type of business you set up, or was it a completely new area?

A: I had done the same for 20 years working for a big company, but then I set up on my own with some contacts, friends, and I had to build a new brand.

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Q: Overall, have you been happy with the way businesses are allowed to operate here?

A: No, with the exception of visas and work permits, the procedures are very bureaucratic, especially the employment laws. On the other hand, Thailand has many geographical advantages and good infrastructure systems so that it can be a viable hub for Asean (Association of South East Asian Nations).

Q: What changes would you like to see here?

A: An improvement in the education system, so that businesses can recruit young and competent staff.

Q: How do you see Thailand as a business base over the next 10-20 years?

A: I think the politics will be resolved, but the biggest threat is the education and lack of skilled labour. Thailand is still streets ahead of neighboring countries such as Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia, and could be a real force in the region but needs to improve its human resource issue.

Name: Philip Britton Born: UK, 1959 Past experience: spent 20 years working in the Lloyd’s reinsurance market in London, and also ran a small office for a big company on secondment to Sydney. Moved to Thailand in the year 2000 and set up a reinsurance business immediately.

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Pattaya

Business|Property

Review

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Grande Caribbean

Where every day in your new home feels like a holiday

ESCAPING from Bangkok as often as possible is now a top priority for many of the city’s inhabitants. And the easiest place to get away from it all is without doubt Pattaya, Thailand’s most famous beach destination.

Here, less than two hours’ drive from Bangkok, is a wonderfully laid-back resort that’s both vibrant and relaxing. That may sound like a contradiction, but for all its international attractions Pattaya also manages to boast some of the country’s most tranquil hideaway venues that are ideal as holiday homes.

That’s why Grande Caribbean Condo Resort makes so much sense. Acquiring a unit at this impressive project gives investors a quality holiday home-awayfrom-home that’s located a reasonable

distance from all the action and yet offers a very welcome living experience enhanced by views of Pattaya Bay. In fact, Grande Caribbean Condo Resort takes the concept of a holiday home to the next level by offering a completely turnkey approach with everything you need to simply walk in and start living.

And from its convenient location, all those important amenities such as shopping malls, hospitals, international schools and entertainment centres are very accessible, as are Pattaya’s famous golf courses and its myriad seaside activities.

Grande Caribbean Condo Resort’s highlights are the four eight-storey low-rise condominium buildings and the Cruz, a striking 30-storey building, located around the rainforest-themed water park.The one

and two-bedroom units are 34.5 sqm and 69 sqm respectively, fully furnished and have been elegantly fitted with internationalstandard bathroom. Fully equipped kitchens and dining areas open out onto spacious balconies. The furniture features bright and contemporary colour schemes, utilizing local and imported fabrics.

The Grande Caribbean Condo Resort's family-friendly and safe public area includes a children’s play park, grottos, caves, jacuzzis and an island lighthouse connected by wooden bridges. Also featured are multilevel pools, a sandy beach and two wooden interactive pirate ships, making it a perfect haven for the family.

A total of 1,064 units are located on a huge 11.5 rai (18,400 sqm) plot.

Attractive payment plans are available.

Visit the Grand Caribbean Showroom at 492/2 M.12, Thappraya Road, Nongprue, Banglamung, Chonburi 20150

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Patpong’s favourite son: Tim Young

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TIM YOUNG, one of Bangkok’s great expatriate characters, father of famous Thai singer Tata Young, and legendary raconteur, passed away last month after a series of heart problems. He was 67.

Born in Ohio, US, Tim had lived in Thailand for the past 43 years, arriving here after serving as a soldier in the Vietnam War during 19671970. He obtained the highest honor from the Department of Veterans Affairs by having the US Flag For Burial Purposes to cover his coffin.

Tim was featured in a major feature ‘Memories of Patpong’ which appeared in the September 2010 issue of The BigChilli. A huge fan and a regular of the area’s bars throughout his life in Thailand, Tim recalled Patpong’s heydays and some of the great times he had there.

In Tim’s memory, we are reproducing the first part of that story in this month’s magazine. The remaining pages, which include memories of Patpong from Patrick ‘Shrimp’ Gauvain, celebrated American author Dean Barrett, and 50-year-plus veteran of Bangkok Alex Mavro, appears on thebigchilli.com.

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Feature

Insight|Patpong

Memories of Patpong For years, Bangkok’s most famous street was unchallenged anywhere in Asia as the ultimate playground for tourists, expatriates and locals. In this report, The BigChilli has invited some of Patpong’s best customers over the past half century to go down memory lane and explain the district’s special magic and why they believe it is now in decline

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TREET of Dreams or Bangkok’s Road of Shame? Either way, this small thoroughfare has been a magnet over the years for countless people who might not otherwise have come to Thailand. With its glory days well behind it, and the number of visitor falling steadily, speculation about Patpong’s future is inevitable. Some say the market which is often blamed for the area’s decline will be moved to nearby premises while others reckon that a new style of entertainment is needed to replace the go-go bars that once enthralled audiences. Fewer visitors to Patpong has also affected dozens of other nearby businesses that relied on the street’s popularity for their survival. Change is in the air, and for many it can’t come quickly enough.

Faded glor y time for a new beginning

“Dismal,” reckons one long-term go-go bar owner who’s seen his takings tumble to 80% of what they were in the street’s glory days in the late 80s.

It’s now just a matter of survival for this old hand. “I’ll continue here only for as long as I can still make a living, of sorts,” he says.

He’s not alone. Many other Patpong businesses are also clearly struggling – and that’s not likely to change until the street’s owners decide on a new future for the area, which is actually rumored to be on the cards.

Ask regulars what caused the street’s decline, and they’ll blame the market, which first appeared tentatively in the late 80s before morphing into a major shopping mall in 1991.

But that’s only half the story, according to Tim Young, a larger-than-life American who probably knows Patpong’s past, present and even its future better

By Colin Hastings

Long time resident Tim Young recalls the rise and fall of Patpong FOR old Patpong hands, the Strip has simply lost it. The glitz, the excitement and all those wonderful possibilities that mesmerized and massaged so many male egos have all disappeared, along with the tourists and the fabulous amounts of money that once poured into the area.

Business is down, badly. So what’s the long-term prognosis for this infamous and probably most expensive piece of Bangkok real estate?

Longtime Patpong resident Tim Young 24

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Bernard Trink’s iconic Nite Owl column in the Bangkok Post kept readers updated on Patpong

Feature

Insight|Patpong

than any other foreigner.

“You also have to look at the high rents now being charged,” says Tim, who first came to Thailand with the US military in the late 60s and went on to open one of the street’s first bars, the Bad Apple, in 1971. “It’s so expensive to run a bar there today.”

Tim’s assertion is backed by present-day tenants, who reckon that rent on even a small unit on the Strip is now in excess of 200,000 baht “plus four months’ advance.”

At the same time, the whole of Patpong has undergone something of a ‘morality check’ in recent years, with the authorities cracking down on the raunchier aspects of its character. “This hasn’t happened in Soi Cowboy or Nana,” growls Tim. “Over there, almost anything still goes.”

Oddly enough, the crackdown hasn’t extended to touts, who continue to plague Patpong and yet barely exist in Bangkok’s other red light districts.

Often mentioned as another reason for the area’s decline is the dominance of two business groups who

The old Burger House

on the corner of Patpon

When taxis cruised Patpong

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NTIL its recent decline in popularity, Patpong would attract thousands of visitors. More often than not, it would turn into a horrible scrum of people competing for space with the area’s workers, vendors, pimps and ubiquitous touts.

This hasn’t always been the case.

Back in the 1970s Patpong was still a relatively quiet backwater, drawing a few hundred punters nightly, despite the fact that it was already beginning to punch well above its weight in the way it had spiked the world’s curiosity.

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g and Silom

Closing time for the dozen or so bars was midnight from Sunday to Thursday, and 1am at weekends.

Right on cue, bright lights were switched on to signal the end of business.

Customers would drift onto the pavement outside, though often delaying their departure from the Strip in order to see who had got lucky that night.

For dancers tired and hungry after the evening shift, the pavement served another purpose - as a makeshift restaurant. Vendors with baskets of food across their shoulders would simply stop wherever they were hailed and then served the girls who squatted nimbly on the sidewalk in groups of two or three.

In a scene unimaginable today, many of these ‘instant’ sidewalk diners were a regular feature of Patpong back then.

Meanwhile, customers would be heading off home. And getting there couldn’t have been easier – you just hailed one of the many taxis that cruised the street at closing time. So light was the traffic that they had free access to Patpong even at its busiest moment. From today’s perspective of massive congestion, this is another hard-to-imagine scene.

Even more improbable, however, were the antics of a group of foreigners who frequented one of the smaller bars in the early 70s. Extended lunches fuelled by copious alcohol would culminate in a game, a sort of Russian roulette Bangkokstyle, in which the unlucky fellow who’d drawn the short straw was required to rush out of the bar at full speed and, with eyes closed, run to the other side of Patpong without stopping.

They did this, of course, in the fairly secure knowledge that Patpong midafternoon was a decidedly sleepy place with little or no chance of a passing car or truck. At least that was the theory and since no fatalities were ever reported, we have to assume that the mad runners made it to the other side.

Such pranks don’t happen these days.

That’s not because of a shortage of takers.

But because a street market would get in the way.

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operate the majority of Patpong’s bars. “Basically, with their buying power they are able to control the price of almost everything, from beer and hostess drinks to even the exit fee for a girl,” says one independent bar owner.

When it comes to remembering the area’s glory days, no one does it better than Tim. His memory is phenomenal. In a moment, he can recall names and faces of the many characters, good and bad, who once frequented the area, including the rich and famous as well as gangsters, drug runners, foreigners who made and lost fortunes, mamasans and “all of their husbands” and, of course, the countless girls who passed through Patpong over the years.

Bars of old Crystal Palace Max’s Place

Red Door

Amora

Kiss Goldfinger

Lucky Strike

Blue Jeans

Texxan Jockey

Rifi fi Peppermint

Crown Royale

Duke’s

Thigh Bar

Kangaroo

Cosmos

Executive Room

Queen’s Castle See Saw

He can also list the bars that came and went and even stayed over the years, including his all-time favorite, Super Star, which he took over for a night in 1986 to celebrate his 50th birthday. “What a night that was,” grins Tim, father and manager of Thailand’s top international singer Tata Young.

As an aside, he reels off the price of drinks charged in Patpong’s early days. “Beer 10 baht at happy hour and 15 baht thereafter, Coke eight baht and 10 baht, and mixed drinks 10 and 15 baht. Buying out a girl was 50 baht. And gasoline was one baht a litre.”

Tim naturally laments the passing of the old Patpong but is nonetheless cheered by a rumour now doing the rounds that its owners are currently renovating the large building at the Suriwongse end of the Strip and turning the first three or four floors into a MBK-style shopping mall. Vendors now occupying the main street will be offered preferential rates, thus freeing the area for visitors and tourists to walk unheeded.

Times and tastes have changed since the 1970s and Patpong will never reprise its former role. But there is hope that it can once again become a major attraction and help to revive a part of Bangkok badly in need of revival. – Colin Hastings

Limelight

Roxy Mike’s Place

Crazy Horse

Electric Blue

Tahitian Queen

Grand Prix Madness

Brown Sugar

Like what you see here? Visit our website to read more Memories of Patpong. www.thebigchilli.com TheBigchilli

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Gourmet p Wine and restaurant news

Enjoy the Michelin Star treatment at Viu when Giancarlo Perbellini arrives to cook up his award winning signature cuisine.

See page 32.

What’s Cooking A round up of this month’s best gourmet deals. Yummy!

Page 30

Meet the chef Spasso Restaurant's Head Chef on wine, food and swearing Page 34

Dining out

Our favourite restaurants reviewed and listed Page 52 TheBigChilli

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Gourmet

Dining|News

What’s Cooking

Bangkok’s hottest dining deals and news A meal made for sharing

Latino Caliente

SEPT 7 – DEC 28 AT NOVOTEL BANGKOK PLATINUM PRATUNAM

■ SOCIAL media fans may want to take their trusty smartphones along to the Platinum Lounge Bar this month. Every Sat from 6pm-1am, anyone who takes a photo of themselves in front of the bar’s ‘Latino Caliente’ backdrop and then posts and shares the image on their social media (Facebook, Twitter or Instagram) will be awarded with a free Mojito (you must order one drink first, though).

220 Petchaburi Rd ☎ +66 2160 7100 :novotelbangkokplatinum.com

AVAILABLE NOW AT CRAVE

■ CRAVE Wine Bar & Restaurant at Aloft Bangkok, Sukhumvit 11, is now offering a new ‘Pop, Clink, Munch!’ promotion which includes a bottle of red, white or sparkling wine together with five ‘Taste and Share’ plates of your choice from the restaurant’s entire a la carte menu. All for just B990++.

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Sukhumvit Soi 11 02 207 7080 :alofthotels.com/bangkoksukhumvit11

Korean ribs

THROUGHOUT SEPT AT KONGJU KOREAN RESTAURANT

■ PATHUMWAN Princess Hotel’s popular Korean restaurant is giving rib fans a meaty treat this month with a special menu featuring dishes such as Stewed pork ribs in pumpkin, and Fried pork spare rib with garlic and chilli (both B350 per dish). You can also order pork ribs, marinated with Korean herbs and spices, to grill at your table. Great fun.

444MBK Center, Phayathai Rd ☎ 02 216 3700 :pprincess.com

French Grand Cru Classé Wine Dinner

SEPT 27 & 28 AT PANORAMA RESTAURANT AND DECK BAR

■ ENJOY an evening of exquisite

French tastes when Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park hosts a special 14-course wine dinner featuring classic French dishes paired with French Grand Cru Classé wines. B3,999++ per person (book before Sept 15 for 20 percent discount). Dinner starts 7pm.

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952 Rama IV Bangkok 02 632 9000 :crowneplazabkk.com

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Chu Suk Festival SEPT 11 – 15 AT PARKVIEW RESTAURANT

■ IN celebration of Korea’s Chu Suk Festival (Korean Thanksgiving Day), The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel is bringing in celebrity guest chefs Lee, Sang Hack, and Myeong, Hyeonji from Seoul, Korea, to cook up their signature dishes as part of Parkview Restaurant’s already extensive international dinner buffet. B1,600 per person including Korean I-Cing Makkoli wine. Beverage packages will be available.

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Sukhumvit Soi 22 02 261 9000 ext. 5004 :imperialhotels.com

French Wine Week

SEPT 23 – 30 AT SOFITEL BANGKOK SUKHUMVIT

■ FROM the rich and spicy wines of the Rhone to the light and delicate vintages from the Loire, the unique culture and winemaking heritage of France will be celebrated with a week of special tastings and wines by the glass and bottle at very attractive prices. Highlights include Cheese and Wine Tasting (B799++); Surprise Food Pairing Wine Dinner (B1,999++ per person); and Wine Fascination Evening (B799++). See the hotel’s website for a full schedule of events.

189 Sukhumvit Rd ☎ 02 126 9999 :sofitel.com

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Chefs’ Table open at Mei Jiang

Dining|News

Gourmet

AVAILABLE NOW AT THE PENINSULA BANGKOK

■ FANS of Mei Jiang Restaurant’s Cantonese cuisine can now see how their favourite food is made thanks to the

Half-price treats So Amazing Chefs 2013 SEPT 25 – 28 AT SOFITEL SO BANGKOK

■ THE second annual So Amazing Chefs event will once again see nine high profile chefs from around the world come together to create culinary magic at Sofitel So Bangkok.

The four-day epicurean showcase promises something for everyone, including two-hour cooking classes, themed seven-course degustation dinners, a wine night featuring a fourcourse set menu curated by master sommeliers, and the fundraising So Amazing Chef Competition Culinary Showdown (Sept 27). For details of chefs taking part see: www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

addition of a Chefs’ Table which provides a window into the operations of the kitchen. The table seats eight guests and the ambience of the room is in keeping with the kitchen, bringing added atmosphere to the dining experience. Dining options include: two set lunches (B950++; or B2,000++ for seafood); two set dinners (B1,750++ or B2,950++); and a Signature menu (B6,800++; or B7,600++ with premium tea pairings; and an additional Chefs’ table charge of B5,000 per usage).

333 Charoennakorn Rd ☎ 02 626 1841 :peninsula.com/bangkok

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2 North Sathorn Rd 02 624 0000 :sofitel-so-bangkok.com

UNTIL SEPT 30 AT BLD BISTRO

■ GRAB yourself a tasty dinner and save some baht in the process at the Take Away Corner of Mode Sathorn Hotel’s trendy BLD Bistro. Every day from 5.30pm-7pm the bistro will offer 50 percent discount off its ‘Grasp To Go’ items (salad, sandwiches, pastries, cakes, smoothies and more).

144 North Sathorn Rd, Silom 02 623 4555 ext. 1100 :modesathorn.com

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Mediterranean flavours

EVERY SAT AT NOVOTEL BANGKOK ON SIAM SQUARE

■ THE Square International Restaurant now serves up a Mediterranean buffet every Saturday night showcasing a wide range of classic dishes from France, Italy, Spain, Greece and North Africa. Highlights include French-style salmon with Café de Paris sauce; Italian chicken Saltimbocca with tomato and basil risotto; and Greek Baklava. Other International dishes are available. B950++ per person.

Siam Square ☎ 02 209 8888 :novotelbkk.com

Michelin star tastes at VIU SEPT 25 – 29 AT THE ST. REGIS BANGKOK

■ GIANCARLO Perbellini, founder of the Two Michelin Starred Dodici Apostoli and One Michelin Starred Marconi in Italy, is coming to town to cook up his signature dishes at VIU Restaurant, The St. Regis Bangkok.

The chef will offer specially designed menus including a four course set lunch menu, a six course degustation dinner menu, and an a la carte dinner and lunch menu offering some of his acclaimed signature recipes (set menus start at B2,900++). He will also offer an exclusive Chef’s Table experience featuring between eight and ten courses, personalised to guests’ tastes and paired with wine (B6,900++; add B2,000++ for wine pairing).

159 Rajadamri Rd ☎ 02 207 7777 :stregis.com 32

New Sunday Brunch by the river EVERY SUN AT THE ROYAL ORCHID SHERATON HOTEL & TOWERS

■ THE Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers has updated its Sunday Brunch experience to offer even more delicious international gourmet treats (Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Italian, French) as well as a brand new seafood section offering Lobster, Alaska crab legs, New Zealand mussels, oysters, scallops, salmon, and more.

Live cooking stations also showcase grilled and roasted meats. B1,780 per person with free-flow juices; B2,180 per person with free-flow wine, beer, and juices (half price for kids aged 7-12).

2 Charoen Krung Rd Soi 30 (Captain Bush Lane) 02 266 0123 :sheraton.com

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Gourmet

Chef in focus|Chef Loris Pistillo

SERVING UP Chef Loris Pistillo

Best region in Italy for food?

Every region has its own best dish and specialty, so I would say every region is the best

Favourite non-Italian cuisine and dish?

Japanese for sure; Cold soba noodle and prawn tempura

Spasso Italian Restaurant’s Chef de Cuisine on wine, food, and swearing

Perfectionist or an artist in the kitchen?

I’ m a chef Do you swear in Italian or English?

I never swear ;-)

What’s more fattening – pasta or potato?

It depends on how you cook it. Could be either

Favourite wine?

Gewurztraminer for white; Amarone for red Cooked for any VIPs or celebrities?

Jean Todt, Penelope Cruz, and Lothar Mattheaus, to name just a few

How do you keep so slim?

I run, run and run (around 150 km per month) All-time favourite restaurant?

Din Tai Fung – a Taiwanese restaurant located in CentralWorld

Who has influenced your career the most?

One of my teachers during my second year of culinary school – he really instilled in me a passion for cooking

Favourite Italian dish?

Cotoletta alla Milanese

Worst habit of local diners?

Asking for variations of dishes that are absolutely not Italian or Mediterranean

Chef Loris in focus

■ LORIS Pistillo, the Chef de Cuisine of Spasso Italian Restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, comes from Milan, Italy. He graduated in hotel and kitchen management in 1998 and started his culinary career as Chef de Partie at Isola hotel in Milan one year before he graduated.

His culinary talents then took him to work with leading five-star hotels and restaurants in Europe and Asia, including Italy, Norway, Hungary, Bali and Singapore for more than 18 years. In 2011, Chef Pistillo made the move to Bangkok to join Spasso, where he now creates a wide range of authentic dishes from all regions of Italy, including his signature Pumpkin risotto, smoked duck ragu, balsamic glazed shallot.

Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Road

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☎02 254 1234 :bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

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I Gourmet

Feature|Fish off the menu

IN a world where ships have fishing nets the size of football fields, ignore sustainable fishing quotas, and hide behind flags of convenience, the United Nations states that already a third of the world’s fish are overexploited or depleted. Large species are in dire straits. Up to 90% are fished out, and fish like bluefin tuna, Atlantic cod and marlin are on the tide to extinction.

In the celebrated book World Without Fish, Mark Kurlansky predicts, “Most of the fish we commonly eat, most of the fish we know, could be gone in the next 50 years.”

You don’t need a doctorate in marine biology to know something is badly wrong. But it’s a tangled net of information out there. Some fish are endangered in some parts of the world but not others; the same fish might be called by several different names, for various reasons; and there are serious problems with a large number of fish farms; but not all.

Salmon may be the chief villain, as far as Bill is concerned, but he has issues with most farmed fish. “I end my talks by asking people to stop eating farmed fish,” reckons Bill.

One problem with farmed fish is that people like to eat big predatory species like salmon and seabass. And predatory fish like to eat other fish. Lots of them. According to the campaigning group Oceana (oceana.org) it can take as much as eight kilos of fish to produce one kilo of salmon.

Most farms are open pens in coastal waters.

Waste is released directly into the ocean.

And when salmon escape – millions do – diseases caused by overcrowding spread to wild fish. Farmed salmon also breed with wild salmon and interfere with the genetic code. Some wild fish have already lost the instinct to swim back up river to spawn.

In addition, farmed fish are pumped with steroids, hormones and antibiotics that may result in antibioticresistant bacteria.

“Not all farmed fish is bad, but few are ecologically sound and grown healthily,” says Bill. “By asking questions in restaurants, we put the responsibility on the people who farm the fish to explain to us what makes their product acceptable.

This has to be an organic movement that comes from the consumer.”

There are well-farmed fish in Bangkok. We just need to find them and support the restaurants that serve them.

Kathrin Kirn of the Bangkok food supplier Theodoré says, “We use farmed salmon, but it comes from a certified sustainable farm, where they follow the regulations from A-Z and don’t over breed.

Fish off the

menu As overfishing reaches critical levels, Howard Richardson learns about fish common to Bangkok restaurants that we should avoid

The oceans are still a mystery; the last frontier, containing some of the last wildlife on the planet. They cover 70% of the world’s surface, yet we have explored just 5% of their depths.

The good news is that as consumers we have power: there are simple things we can do to encourage better management of our waters.

Bill Marinelli is a Bangkok-based seafood importer who gives informal talks on sustainable fishing. He’s also a marine biologist, and owns several fisheries and a small restaurant, The Oyster Bar. “The two biggest scourges on the restaurant scene in Bangkok,” he claims, “are probably snowfish and farmed salmon.

If people could do one single thing to help, it would be to stop eating farmed salmon.”

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Doing things the right way: The Oyster Bar and a selection of its fresh seafood on ice

“Most [of our suppliers] have certification from the Marine Stewardship Council (msc.org) or Friends of the Sea (friendsofthesea.org), and the smaller ones we work with follow the rules for sustainability.”

According to Bill, “Only a few restaurants in Bangkok serve wild salmon.” They include Quince and Eat Me, both excellent places to get dinner, whether seafood or otherwise; Quince for its commitment to local produce and Eat Me for its excellent vegetarian section.

The Oyster Bar has wild salmon, along with oysters labeled as Eagle Rock, Wolf Beach, Treasure Island… whatever is in stock. Their characteristics are explained on menu like wine tasting notes.

Grab the Seafood platter for various crabs, scallop sashimi, caviar, shrimp, oysters, and condiments (from B2,000++/ two), but also check out the fish selection for some unusual surprises.

Line caught Opakapaka Hawaiian King Snapper is served Indonesian

style with spicy sambal and gaba rice; Onaga Hawaiian Ruby Snapper has white beans and a tickle of chilli; and Sea Bream comes with gnocchi and a creamy sauce of chipotle mole beurre blanc (all B600++). But the Oyster Bar menu changes constantly, because almost everything is line caught, so even the fishermen don’t know what’s available until they catch it.

Line caught is a sustainable fishing method, as are harpooning, pots, traps and trolling, in which a line with multiple hooks is trailed from a boat.

Theodoré now give out calendars explaining environmentally friendly fishing methods and those that aren’t, such as trawling, dredging and gillnetting.

These methods damage seabeds and have unintended by-catch of fish and seafood that dies onboard and is thrown back wasted or sold as “trash fish” for animal feed.

Earlier this year, following a report in the UK’s Sunday Times, environmentalist Banjong Nasae ran a Facebook petition

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asking Thailand agro-giants to stop buying trash fish for animal feed. He said: “The depletion of marine life in our waters is now critical. If you still buy trash fish from trawlers, then you play a part in this environmental destruction”. It attracted over 30,000 Facebook ‘Likes.’

The Bangkok Post followed up with an opinion piece claiming the Fisheries Department, “is an even bigger culprit than the animal feed industry because it has failed to stop trawlers from using finemesh nets or from entering the protected coastal area 3km from the shoreline.”

And added, “The Fisheries Department is supposed to protect our seas. Yet this is the very organisation that is behind the enormous destruction of mangrove forests to make way for prawn farms.”

The Fisheries Department spokesman denied the allegations. The Bangkok Post response? “He must believe we are all fools.”

Thailand is the third-biggest exporter of seafood in the world, after Norway and China, so it’s no surprise

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Gourmet

Feature|Fish off the menu

that over-fishing is rife here. In June this year, the Greenpeace eco-warrior ship Esperanza docked in Bangkok to campaign against overfishing in the Gulf of Thailand, where the fish catch of 300 kilograms an hour in 1961 has dwindled 12 times to only 25 kilograms an hour today. Greenpeace asked the Fisheries Department to enforce rules and convict users of large, destructive nets and equipment.

Bill has also noticed problems in the Gulf. “If you go to Hua Hin for example the sea is full of jelly fish and squid. These are the garbage men of the sea. In large numbers they signify the beginning of the death of a body of water.”

Another destructive method, drag netting, accounted for the death of a humpbacked dolphin in Trang in August, the ninth such casualty in the area this year as an unintended by-product of destructive fishing. The Ban Ta Se Dolphin Conservation Group believes there are now just 100 dolphins left in the Had Samran Sea. Asking restaurants how their fish is caught is another practical way for diners to promote sustainable practices.

World Without Fish includes the history of factory fishing by large trawlers; how they kill young fish in their nets and destroy the breeding cycle. The world has known about the problem for 150 years since fish stocks were first recorded shrinking in the North Sea. Corporate greed and compliant governments mean little or nothing has been done since.

Other books Bill recommends are The End of the Line by Charles Clover, Four Fish by Paul Greenberg (“I find myself getting cynical, but this book isn’t”) and Hooked: Pirates, Poaching and the Perfect Fish by G Bruce Knecht.

Hooked is a story of adventure and criminality with particular resonance in

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Alternative view THIS article touches on many complex issues and there are opposing views as to what is deemed right and wrong, acceptable and unacceptable – especially when it comes to farmed fish. Pick up next month’s magazine to read the views of an industry expert who argues the case in favor of fish farms and their benefits for marine life.

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Thailand. Its victim/hero is the Chilean seabass, a threatened fish widely sold in Bangkok restaurants, having been illegally caught in defiance of fishing quotas.

The scam is perpetrated by changing its name. In the 1970s, an American seafood merchant recognised the dining potential of something called the Patagonian toothfish and renamed it the Chilean Seabass for marketing reasons.

“Because,” says Bill, “who’s going to eat something called a toothfish?”

The Chilean seabass became so popular its survival was threatened.

Consequently, Bill says, seafood merchants renamed it again, this time for more sinister reasons. It is now called the snowfish to disguise its identity and avoid quota controls enacted to protect it. Many of us will have devoured it in Bangkok restaurants not knowing its plight. We’ve been deceived. Bill’s advice?

“Just don’t eat it.”

One indicator that a fish is over exploited is a sharp rise in price. “In the late ’80s Chilean seabass was cheap: $7 a kilo,” Bill recalls. “After it was overfished the price

climbed to $17 a kilo.

“Then in the ’90s someone called me from one of the [Bangkok] hotels and said I have something here that looks like Chilean seabass, but they’re calling it snowfish. I went over to have a look. It was Chilean seabass, and priced $5 a kilo.

I was essentially put out of business in Chilean seabass.

“But, now, even the so-called snowfish is so expensive I can actually sell the legally caught stuff again.”

The over exploitation of fish affects the whole food chain and the ecosystem of the oceans.

“Where fish are over exploited there are no fish to eat seaweed, which grows and grows,” says Bill. “The ocean runs out of oxygen; whatever fish are left die; there are no more sea birds, no more reptiles.

But it’s not only the oceans that are threatened. In March, thousands of delegates from 150 countries gathered in Bangkok for the 16th Conference of Parties of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (Cites). One of their main concerns is the series of dams being built on the Mekong River and the threat they pose to two of the world’s largest freshwater fish, the Mekong giant catfish and the giant pangasius. Both are now rated as critically endangered.

The Mekong has almost 1,000 species of freshwater fish and flows through six countries. All will be affected by large changes to its ecosystem.

The future of our waterways looks bleak. For more information, check out the Seafood Watch list at the Monterey Bay Aquarium (www. montereybayaquarium.org), which rates fish and fisheries under the headings ‘Best Choice,’ ‘Good Alternative’ and ‘Avoid’.

And we can look for retail options such as the line-caught frozen haddock available at Tops in Central Chidlom.

“It’s about baby steps,” says Bill.

“As long as we’re making them we’re getting somewhere.”

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Gourmet

Pics|Events

Gourmet scrapbook

Last month’s foodie functions in focus

Bangkok Chefs Charity Gala Dinner ■ DIGNATARIES, luminaries, and gourmet food lovers of all nationalities gathered for a night of exquisite cuisine and fine wines at the 2013 Bangkok Chefs Charity Gala Dinner, in the Royal Ballroom of Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok.

Organised by Nuntiya and Patcharin Hame-ung-gull of Gourmet One, in collaboration with Executive Chefs from 25 leading hotels in Thailand and Thai Airways International Public Co., Ltd., the event was graciously presided over by Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn and raised 17 million baht for the Border Patrol Police Schools under Her Royal Highness’s Patronage as well as underprivileged children in the remote Amphur Omkoy in Northern Thailand.

Siam Winery exclusively supplied for the entire 10-course dinner a host of award-winning wines from the company’s “World of Wines” portfolio to pair with each dish in addition to the locally produced and bottled Monsoon Valley wines.

A taste of Australia ■ BANGKOK foodies flocked to Zense Gourmet Deck & Lounge Panorama at Zen World, Level 17, Central World, to enjoy an exclusive four-course wine dinner featuring the finest vintages from McGuigan Wines, Australia.

On hand to explain more about the wines was “International Winemaker of the Year” Mr. Neil McGuigan, Chief winemaker of McGuigan wines and CEO of Australian Vintage. The event was hosted by Siam Winery.

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Gourmet

Pics|Events

Canadian food in the spotlight ■ THE very best of Canadian food and wine was used to create a superb six-course wine dinner at Plaza Athénée Bangkok, A Royal Meridien Hotel’s Reflexions Restaurant. The dinner highlighted the unique flavour combinations of British, French and Aboriginal cuisine that characterize epicurean Canadian fare, and saw fresh Canadian produce coupled with a broad selection of Canadian seafood and agricultural products ranging from oysters and snow crab to arctic char and tender bison.

Kobe beef arrives in style ■ JAGOTA – Food Solutions For Professionals marked the official launch of top grade Kobe Beef in Thailand with a special dinner event at JW Marriott Bangkok’s Nami Restaurant. The meat, which comes from the Tajima-gyu breed of cattle in Japan’s Hyogo Prefecture, is regarded as being amongst the best beef in the world.

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Dining for a good cause ■ THE Blue Elephant Restaurant held a special ‘sneak preview’ lunch to showcase the highly-nutritious, six-course ‘Pink Ribbon’ menu it will be serving throughout the month of October in support of the Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer (QSCBC). The menu, specially prepared

by QSCBS ambassador and Blue Elephant owner/ chef Nooror Somany Steppe, will feature innovative dishes such as Clear beef consommé of tenderloin beef, sweet potatoes flavored with Thai holy basil and sweet basil; and Rambutan stuffed with minced free-range Chicken and organic prawns, Ivy gourd and Soursop leaves. B1,980++ per person (available for lunch and dinner). All proceeds raised from the sale of the menu will be donated to QSCBC. www.blueelephant.com/bangkok

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Gourmet

Dining|BB&B

Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy

A return visit to Ma Du Zi results in another great meal for the BB&B dining group

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ETURNING to Ma Du Zi for a second visit, we were once again greeted in person by K. Koravic, the hotel’s manageress, and several other members of her friendly staff. The attendance of 16 was supplemented by a pair of unexpected members but that just made it seem the more the merrier.

The opening beverage, Tulloch NV Cuvée Sparkling (Hunter Valley, NSW), went down well with all. We were seated down promptly and the servers set a brisk pace with the delivery of the first courses, perhaps a little too quickly to fully savour Tulloch Verdelho 2011.

As on previous occasions, we found this to be a most enjoyable dry wine and it was well matched with the chilled Cauliflower veloute served with Hokkaido scallop, Awaji octopus, sea urchin, and fresh caviar. Along with food spokesman Ian Cooper, I found this a great dish.

Our wine master, Jock Tulloch, then introduced us to Trinity Hill Shiraz 2005 (Hawke’s Bay, NZ) to accompany Terrine ‘de pâté de campagne’ and Parma ham.

This type of pâté is described as ‘rustic’ in some cookbooks and I personally thought it needed rather more herbs than Chef Yuya Okuda introduced to the recipe.

The ham was tasty and the wine went

well overall with the dish. For the first time, Ian’s son Jason Cooper was asked to call the shots on the wine and acquitted himself in fine fashion.

Continuing at that same fast pace, the next dish arrived before d’Arenberg Dead Arm Shiraz 2005 (McLaren Valley,

SA) had scarcely left the bottle. However, this proved not to be a problem as the wine chosen for matching seemed to overpower the ensemble of Monkfish and salmon (with chardonnay wine sauce and sabayon curry flavour). The Shiraz was saved by most for quaffing later. The fish was nice (especially the salmon) and the sauce was excellent.

When Sandalford was found on the wine label, I began to think Jock was exacting his revenge on those several members of the Club who have often

professed their love for the Syrah grape but closer examination revealed Sandalford Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (Margaret River, WA). With this came Roasted Australian rib eye with yuzu pepper sauce; it made for firm eating and possibly it might have benefited from roasting more slowly and served rare or medium-rare.

For cheese lovers, there was a modest but tasty serving to be consumed with Fox Creek JSM 2001 (Shiraz - Cabernet Franc - Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale, Australia). The wine has lasted well considering its age. Finally, the meal was completed with Bavarois cake (with brownie and rum crème mousse) and Presidential Ruby Port (Portugal).

This is a nice setting for the lunch and the restaurant team worked hard to make this an enjoyable occasion.

9/1 Corner of Sukhumvit Soi 16, Ratchadaphisek, Klongtoey 02 615 6400 :maduzihotel.com

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Dining|Recipe

cut out and keep

Gourmet

Recipe of the month

Red wine braised wagyu beef cheek, foie gras and black truffle lava cake Enjoy your own gourmet experience at home by following this delicious recipe by Cyrille Joseph Vero, Executive Pastry Chef of the Pullman Bangkok King Power Ingredients Beef Cheek • 140g Wagyu beef cheek • 30g Red wine • 10g Onion • 10g Carrot • 5g Garlic • 3g Rosemary • 10g Foie gras • 5g Chinese truffle • 2g Truffle oil • 3g Salt • 3g Black peppercorn • 10g Olive oil Foie gras and black truffle lava cake • 125g Flour • 2g Whole eggs • 5g Baking powder • 30g White wine • 50g Duck fat • 240g Foie gras • 80g Cream • 40g Chinese truffle • 5g Salt • 3g Black peppercorn • 16g Truffle oil

Method 1. Marinate beef cheek with salt, black pepper powder, garlic, rosemary and olive oil.

2. Sear on the pan (high heat) until it’s brown.

3. Put in vacuum bag with red wine, Chinese truffle and truffle oil and sous vid 75 c 18 hours until it’s soft.

4. Mix the flour and egg together, add baking powder and whip them.

5. Prepare filling ingredients with foie gras, duck fat, cream and Chinese truffle, and blend it and season with salt, black pepper until it’s fine.

6. Fill in dough and Baked 180 c 13 minutes. Lastly put truffle oil on the top.

Presentation Reheat beef cheek and serve with baked truffle foie gras cake. Garnish with spring vegetable and sauce.

About the chef

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ph Ver Chef Cyrille Jose 46

A GREAT example of how your past doesn’t always influence your future, Chef Cyrille actually began his working life as a plumber. That was in his home town of Porticcio, in the island of Corsica just off the coast of France and Italy. Not content with a life of mending pipes, though, he decided to pursue his passion for the culinary arts and filled his time reading about cooking and learning recipes. In 1989 he landed a job as a seasonal cook at The Veta in Porticco, and from there on out his career has flourished, taking him to work alongside world renowned chefs in top international restaurants. Prior to joining Pullman Bangkok King Power, he was Executive Pastry Chef at Sofitel Porticcio.

8/2 Rangnam Road, Ratchathewi ☎02 680 9999 :pullmanbangkokkingpower.com

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Feature

Insight|Whisky woes

Scotch on the Rocks

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By Maxmilian Wechs

ler

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The worldwide popularity of Scotch whisky has inevitably attracted all kinds of fakes, including some that could put drinkers at risk.

Now the whisky industry is fighting back. In this special report, we look at how Thailand is using some ingenious methods to deal with a growing problem

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WITH consumers the world over rapidly acquiring a taste for whiskies and other premium drink products, it will come as no surprise to learn that the number of counterfeiters and smugglers trying to cash in on this booming business is also on the increase – and they include persistent offenders here in Thailand.

High on their target list of fake and smuggled products is Scotch whisky, one of the UK’s most valuable exports worth 4.3 billion UK pounds in 2012, representing an astonishing 25% of all Britain’s food and export drinks. It’s little wonder that the British government and the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), the industry’s watchdog, are seriously concerned about counterfeiting and smuggling.

Aside from Thailand, other countries pinpointed by the SWA where illicit alcoholic liquor is produced in significant quantities include China, India, Italy, the Dutch territory of Curacao in the Caribbean, and Australia.

No figures are available for the worldwide loss incurred by the Scotch whisky industry, but it thought to be in the millions of pounds.

Now the whisky industry in Scotland, which employs more than 10,000 people, is tackling the problem of forgeries and protection of its brand through a legal device known as a “geographical indication” or GI, in a number of markets, including India, Turkey, China and Thailand, according to the SWA. GI means Scotch whisky is recognised as a product that can only be made in Scotland according to the Scotch Whisky Regulations 2009. This covers drinks that are passed off as Scotch whisky through their labeling, packaging and names.

In 2012, Thailand was Scotch whisky’s 10th largest export market by volume, with a value of 39 million UK pounds, according to SWA. The most valuable market for Scotch is the US, followed by France, Singapore, Spain, Germany, Taiwan, South Africa, South Korea, Venezuela, and Mexico.

Although Scotch whisky has been a protected GI in Thailand since 2009, the SWA is apparently not entirely satisfied with the measures taken here. Its director of legal affairs, Glen Barclay, said after meetings here with the Thai Department of Intellectual Property (DIP), the British Embassy and the EU officials: “A number of legal issues still need to be addressed: incomplete implementation of the WTO TRIPS Agreement on the protection of geographical indications; and lack of enforcement – there is confusion as to which enforcement agency is responsible for unfair competition issues; and that the quality and consistency of decisions over trade mark protection are mixed.

He noted that there is no compulsory definition of whisky here, and suggested that education and training was needed by enforcement agencies regarding intellectual property matters.

The value of Scotch exports has now increased by 87% over the last 10 years. Interestingly, exports of single malt have risen by 190% during that period, reflecting improved consumer knowledge of Scotch whisky across the globe.

Meanwhile, Australia has been branded as “one of the worst markets for the sale of fake Scotch whisky,” by lawyers acting on behalf of the SWA. Mr Barclay has added that some Australian companies were diluting Scotch with other spirits and then trying to pass it off as whisky, while others are taking cheap whiskies and adding oak staves to try to make them taste older than they are.

In India, courts have halted the sale of several whisky brands after being accused of passing off local liquor as authentic Scotch whisky through their labelling and packaging.

The SWA said the injunction bars the two firms from including reference to “Scotch whisky” on drinks that are not genuine Scotch whisky. It also prevents the sale of their local whiskies under the trademark or trade name “Glenmon” or any name with the word “Glen” in it.

“The defendants have indirectly misled the general public by using the word ‘Glenmon’. They are directly misleading the general public by using the words ‘Scotch whisky’.

Such dishonest adoption of brand names invites an order of injunction,” said the SWA. In order to be called Scotch whisky, the beverage must be produced at a distillery in Scotland and meet various other stringent regulations.

In China, a wholesaler was sentenced to four years in prison and fined £50,000 for misusing the term “Scotch whisky.” Some of the products were labelled as Scotch whisky when actually they were Chinese spirits containing artificial flavouring.

The SWA has taken action against more than 1,000 brands and opposed the registration of some 3,000 trademarks. – C.H.

Fake whisky in Thailand COUNTERFEITING of alcoholic drinks has been going on in Thailand for decades. Brands targeted include cognacs like Rémy Martin, Hennessy and Martel; vodka - especially Absolut and Grey Goose - and wines such as Carlo Rossi Wine and Chateau Lafite Rothschild. Even beer has been copied.

Fake whiskies include Teacher’s, Jack Daniel’s and Glenfiddich. But it is Johnnie Walker, the most widely distributed brand of blended whisky in the world that seems to attract the greatest interest from counterfeiters here.

Thailand is ranked third after the US and Brazil among 180 markets for Johnnie Walker whisky sales for the third consecutive year.

The suppression of counterfeit alcoholic beverages has traditionally been handled in Thailand by the Royal Thai Police, but recently the Department of Special Investigation (DSI) stepped in following a complaint received from the Verisec, a firm hired by Diaego Moet Hennessy (Thailand), which is responsible for Johnnie Walker products here.

Verisec specializes in brand protection, intellectual property consulting and corporate investigations.

“After our bureau received the complaint, we were given

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Feature

Insight|Whisky woes

Pol Lt Col Sumit Chanovit oversees a raid at a shop and storage facility in Bang Bua Thong district of Nonthaburi province (images courtesy of DSI)

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information from the company and also samples of counterfeit Johnnie Walker Red Label and Black Label bottles obtained from a retail outlet. We conducted a further investigation that lasted for about two weeks and presented the evidence we gathered to the Central Intellectual Property and International Trade Court, with a request for a search warrant, which was granted by the judge,” said Police Lieutenant Colonel Sumit Chanovit, Director of Section 1 of the DSI’s Intellectual Property Crime Bureau.

“Armed with the search warrant, a team of about 20 DSI officers led by Pol Lt Col Sumit along with several Verisec representatives raided a liquor shop and storage facility in Bang Bua Thong district of Nonthaburi province near Bangkok on May 22 this year. We found and seized 595 one-liter bottles of counterfeit Johnnie Walker, both Red and Black label. We arrested the owner, Khun Bang-on Taikam, and charged her with trademark violation.”

“Khun Bang-on was released on 100,000 baht bail. If convicted, she could face a fine of up to 400,000 baht and a jail term not exceeding four years, or both. The shop was selling both fake labels for the price of the originals,” Pol Lt Col Sumit said.

“We don’t know where the fake whisky was produced but we strongly suspect it was in Thailand. When we asked the suspect where she got it, she said that someone came to her shop and offered it to her and she had no idea it was not genuine. We believe that she did know it was not the genuine product, however.

“In fact, the seized bottles contained genuine Johnnie Walker whisky mixed with other brands of cheap whisky. The blend was not physically harmful to the consumer, only of much lesser quality.”

Pol Lt Col Sumit said that in the past there had been

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seizures of counterfeit Johnnie Walker and other fake alcoholic drinks in Thailand that contained harmful, toxic chemicals.

“When you opened the bottle it smelled like gasoline. The manufacturers obviously intended to cheat the customers and didn’t care about the consequences.”

In 2003, the Food Standards Agency in the UK issued a health warning about whisky contaminated with unacceptable levels of methanol. Bottles of contaminated Johnnie Walker Black Label containing methanol were discovered by the Customs Department and police at a bottling plant in Berkshire.

Tests carried out on the counterfeit whisky “show that it has been contaminated with methanol. At the levels detected, consumers would be at risk of harmful effects including severe stomach pain and blindness.”

Johnnie Walker Scotch is now the most widely distributed brand of blended whisky in the world, selling annually about 130 million bottles worldwide.

Asked how consumers can identify genuine Johnnie Walker from counterfeit brands on store shelves, Pol Lt Col Sumit replied: “This is not easy. I compared the packaging and bottles

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Officers examine some of the evidence found in the Nonthaburi raid (images courtesy of DSI)

seized by the DSI with the original product smuggled from a neighboring country, but couldn’t detect any differences on the outside. The bottles and the boxes appeared to be the same.

“The staff of Verisec possesses a special tool that will immediately identify whether the Johnnie Walker is original or counterfeit. The DSI doesn’t possess this equipment,” continued the Pol Lt Col. The device is placed on the top of the bottle; if it is original a green light will come on, and if counterfeit a red light shows, apparently due to a code introduced in the packaging process.

“The Verisec people accompanied us during the search in May and checked every bottle with the device. It was our first case involving counterfeit Johnnie Walker whisky. We can’t go alone because we don’t have this special tool. It is not like when we investigate and seize fake watches, leather and garment products or pirated DVDs. In these cases we can easily identify the originals from counterfeits,” Pol Lt Col said.

“There are some other ways to identify counterfeit Johnnie Walker from the original but I can’t disclose them because if published it could help the counterfeiters. But no question, the special device is the most accurate way to distinguish the real from the fake.”

Pol Lt Col Sumit stressed that to find counterfeit Johnnie Walker whisky is Thailand is not easy.

“The probability that you will be sold counterfeit Johnnie Walker is very low in Thailand. You can absolutely trust all big stores here.”

The entertainment industry is particularly prone to fake products. “We suspect that some pubs, restaurants, clubs and discotheques may offer complimentary branded whisky during various promotions which is, in fact, a counterfeit product. Most of these establishments know what they are serving is fake, but order it in order to reduce costs,” said Pol Lt Col Sumit.

“The criminals collect genuine empty bottles of popular spirits from the garbage or buy them from entertainment places,” Pol Lt Col Sumit warned.

Smuggled Johnnie Walker at Klong Toey FINDING out whether counterfeit Johnnie Walker is for sale in places like Klong Toey market is difficult because fakes are difficult to identify, as Pol Lt Col Sumit mentioned. At stores visited by a team of reporters, Johnnie Walker on sale carried approximately the same price as the genuine article.

However, it was possible to locate smuggled Johnnie Walker Black and Red in an area accessible to authorized people only. It wasn’t difficult to find a ‘salesman’ and through him, reporters were able to by one-litre bottles of smuggled Red Label for 550 baht and Black Label for 900 baht. A large liquor store in Bangkok sells the same genuine items for 829 and 1,349 baht respectively.

The Red Label purchased was wrapped in a black plastic bag with a sticker attached to the top of the bottle that said “Duty not paid.” Our reporters were told that it was possible to buy this particular brand at any time and in large quantities.

Other brands of alcohol, including wines are allegedly sold cheaply at the port as well.

The bottle was later examined by Pol Lt Col Sumit, who could identify from a “secret” mark on the bottle that it was smuggled from Malaysia.

Counterfeit Johnnie Walker is available at Klong Toey but only sold to selected merchants. Foreigners normally have very little chance of tracking down counterfeit or smuggled Johnnie Walker because the sellers don’t trust them as they could be working for the company or for the government.

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Gourmet

Where to eat

Recommended restaurants and bars International cuisine

ZENSE

•Need proof that Bangkok’s

dining scene is just as hip as any other big cosmopolitan city? Head to this trendy restaurant on the 17th floor of ZEN World. Boasting breathtaking views and a visually arresting design playing on angles, curves and colour, it’s one of the city’s chicest hangouts. What’s more, it boasts a choice of five cuisines from five different kitchens.

Highlights include Thai cuisine

by White Café, authentic Italian food by Gianni Ristorante, Japanese cuisine by Kikusui, contemporary Indian creations by Red, and modern European recipes by To Die For. Level 17 ZEN World (CentralWorld), 45 Rajadamri Road. Open daily Tel: 02 100 9898 www.zensebangkok.com

Leapfrog Restaurant and Bar

•Located on the eighth floor

of Ramada Encore Bangkok, Leapfrog jumps to attention by offering a chic dining atmosphere, stunning views of Chuwit Park, and also great value for money. There are plenty of standalone dishes to choose from, but it’s the restaurant’s three-course dinner menu which attracts most diners – a gourmet steal at B990 per person. Signature dishes include Slow-cooked lamb shank with pommes croquettes, and Sexy cheese cake.

Ramada Encore Bangkok, Soi 10 Sukhumvit Road (BTS Asoke) 02 615 0999 :leapfrogbkk.com

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Chesa

The Pintsman

homely restaurant, located in a beautifully renovated teak house on Sukhumvit Soi 20, has been satiating Swiss appetites with a wide range of the country’s most popular dishes plus traditional favourites you won’t find elsewhere in Bangkok. Among them: Capuns Auf Chesa Art (B350++), Braised lamb shank with chanterelle mushrooms (B650++), and the popular fondue pots.

The restaurant’s à la carte Sunday brunch is a must visit, offering a family-style serving of dishes brought to the table (B1,350++ per adult, B750++ for kids aged 6-12, B1,980++ per person including free-flow beers, wine and Prosecco).

UK’s inner-city pubs where modernity rules supreme, The Pintsman does away with the usual countryside-kitsch found at most expat boozers to offer a drinking and dining experience like you’d find in London, Manchester or Leeds.

Big screen TVs show a variety of sports; a well-stocked bar offers local beers plus imported options such as Guinness, Leffe, Kilkenny, and Weihenstephaner; and the food menu features a wide range of international and local favourites, most served in portions big enough to share. Highlights include Fish and chips (B350), Lamb shank (B420), and German pork knuckle (B390).

•For just over 12 years this

5 Sukhumvit Soi 20. Open daily 11am-11pm (Ample packing on site) 02 261 6650 :chesa-swiss.com

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Coyote (Mexican cuisine)

•Tequila, margaritas and

Mexican food are what this place is all about. The tequila collection is the largest in Thailand and over 75 different margaritas are served. The

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menu is diverse and not only possesses the requisite tacos, enchiladas, and burritos, but also more elaborate items like Empanadas Carnitas - cornmeal pastries stuffed with spicy pork and a roasted tomato salsa. Although popular at lunch, the Coyote really howls in the evening when the after work crowd stumbles in for margaritas and a bite to eat.

Coyote Convent, Convent Rd, about 200m from Silom Road, 02 631 2325 (BTS Saladaeng) :coyoteonconvent.com

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AmBar

•Four Points by Sheraton

Bangkok’s rooftop poolside hangout is always a great place to visit for a good value steak – top grade Aussie and American beef is just B650

•Taking its cue from the

B Floor, United center Building, 02 234 2874 Silom Road :facebook.com/thepintsman

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per person. You can also wrap your mouth around grilled lamb and chicken, as well as a good selection of sandwiches, pizza and fusion dishes.

Sides include Jacket potatoes, French fries and Creamed spinach, and there’s also a small selection of appetizers and desserts.

Four Points By Sheraton Bangkok – Sukhumvit 15. Open daily 6.30pm10.30pm. 02 309 3000 :fourpoint.com/bangkoksukhumvit15 :facebook.com/ambar

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Indian cuisine

Bawarchi

Bawarchi first arrived in Bangkok 13 years ago and now operates four restaurants here, as well as three in India.

Its menu reflects the traditional Mughlai cuisine in North West India and the food on offer is as authentic as it gets.

Skewered tandoori meats (king prawn, lamb, chicken) are a definite highlight, as are the curries – lovely and thick and bursting with flavor.

Meals at Bawarchi’s flagship branch in Chidlom average at B700-B1,000 per head, and you really do get what you pay for.

Bawarchi Chidlom, Intercontinental Hotel (President Tower Arcade) B-Level, 973 Ploenchit Road, 02 656 0102-3 :bawarchiindian.com

American Food

Indian Host

If you’re looking for authentic Indian cuisine, this is the place for you. The menu follows traditional North Indian recipes with dishes that are rich in flavours and aroma.

There’s a wide range of exotic curries, succulent Tandoori meats, mouth watering vegetarian dishes and much more to please you here.

Set over three floors, the atmosphere is warm and the service is spot on. Home deliveries are also available.

Grand Mercure Park Avenue Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 22, (between BTS Asoke and Phromphong) 02 260 1115-6 : PR@indian-host.com, renu@indian-host.com :indian-host.com

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Indus

A large bar, entertainment and restaurant/coffee shop complex featuring Indian and Kashmiri food. The décor attempts to create a feel for the Indus Valley Civilization.

The food is excellent and includes some great curries and a signature Chicken Tikka Kati Roll. Thai and snack items are also available in the coffee shop. DJ music and cocktails are available in the entertainment area. If you are looking for a complete night on the town with Indian overtones, this is a good choice.

Sukhumvit Soi 26, 400m from Rama IV Rd, 1200m Sukhumvit Rd just past Four Wings Hotel (BTS Phrom Phong, 02 258 4900 then taxi)

☎

Harvey’s

Harvey’s features Californian cuisine served up in sleek, modern and decidedly posh surroundings. California is noted for its wide variety of fresh fruits and produce, and an equally wide variety of ethnic groups. The developing cuisine from this state reflects this diversity, making it a fusion lover’s delight. The menu ranges far and wide, but most dishes are memorable and well presented. This is rapidly becoming one of the city’s most popular spots. Drop-in and see what all the excitement is about.

Thonglor Soi 9, 300m from Soi Thonglor (BTS Thonglor) 02 712 9911

Roadhouse Barbecue

Barbecued food from the American south is a great antidote for the negative impression created by the pap served by American fast food chains. For excellent BBQ ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, hickory smoked beef brisket, and a lot more, try this place.There is a large exhibition kitchen, featuring an open flame BBQ and two wood smokers. Up on the third floor, you can watch sports on big screen TVs, play billiards or throw darts. Lots of fun and loads of good eats.

Junction of Surawongse and Rama IV Roads (MRT Silom or 02 236 8010 BTS Saladaeng) :roadhousebarbecue.com

☎

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Voilà!

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HE Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit’s signature all day dining restaurant Voilà! serves international buffet lunch and dinner to a superb ‘Cuisine on Stage’ concept – which basically means you can order most of your food from live cooking stations, including a Parisian-style rotisserie and an artisan La Cornue stove.

The amazing selection of dishes on offer ranges from fresh seafood and oysters on ice to Parisian bistro selections (soups and casseroles), flame grilled rotisserie meats, Italian pasta, fresh pizzas, Asian favourites, and decadent desserts. A cheese room boasts a wealth of premium quality cold cuts and delightfully pungent cheeses from around the world, and there are even 100 bottles of wine to choose from, including 25 choices by the glass. Spoilt for choice? You bet it.

Buffet lunch is B995; dinner is B1,450; and Sunday Brunch is B3,200 with free-flow champagne, cocktails and house wines; or B2,250 with free flow soft drinks. Every Fri and Sat night a Seafood Buffet is just B1,999.

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Road Soi 13-15 (between Nana and Asok BTS stations).

02 126 9999 ext. Voilà! :sofitel.com

☎

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Italian cuisine

La Buca

Home-style Italian food like mama makes served in a humble little trattoria presided over by a proud and dedicated owner. This is what a neighbourhood restaurant is all about. Owner Mr. Oreste changes his menu every week and it always includes good tasting basic Italian eats. The owner/chef imports his ingredients whenever necessary to maintain quality and authenticity. A little more expensive than you would expect, but the atmosphere and good food make it worth the price.

Open everyday for lunch and dinner, except Sunday.

Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Nana or Ploenchit) 02 253 3190

Zanotti

One of the most highly regarded Italian restaurants in town, Zanotti has achieved its lofty status by doing everything right. The menu is comprehensive, but specializes in dishes from Tuscany and Piedmont. The interior is intimate and romantic, but still relaxed and laid back. The service is attentive, but not overly fussy. The osso buco, a good measure of any Italian restaurant’s mettle, is superb.

The wine list is an all-Italian show featuring many of Italy’s finest wines.

Soi Saladaeng in the Colonnade Building (BTS Saladaeng or MRT 02 636 0002 Silom) :zanotti-ristorante.com

☎

Rioja

Every city needs a Spanish restaurant and Bangkok finally got one with the arrival of Rioja. With Spanish ownership and a Spanish chef in the kitchen, authenticity prevails.

The gazpacho, a cold pureed vegetable soup, is perfect for Bangkok’s hot and humid weather. Other delights include imported Spanish ham and some great seafood. The set lunches are great bargains.

A large variety of Spanish wines are available and demonstrate why wines from the Iberian Peninsula are often a bargain.

Spanish on 4

This sister branch of the ever popular Tapas Cafe (Sukhumvit Soi 11) is a great place to enjoy lunch or dinner with friends or a loved one. The menu offers a wide range of Spanish Tapas, imported hams and cheeses, as well as weekly changing regional specials. The restaurant is modern and airy with a busy informal atmosphere and attracts a diverse cosmopolitan crowd. Good value and authentic Spanish food.

78 Silom Soi 4. Opposite Soi Convent 02 632 9955.

(BTS Saladaeng) :spanishon4.com

☎

Ploenchit Rd, Central department store side, (adjacent to BTS Chid02 251 5761 :riojath.com lom),

☎

☎

Biscotti

This award-winning Italian restaurant is located in a huge 50-year-old house on Thonglor 17. An extensive menu offers a delightful range of authentic traditional and modern Italian cuisine, including Lasagne, Spaghetti carbonara, Lamb Ossobuco served over funghi rissoto, Homemade raviolis and pasta, and Pizzas from the wood fired oven.

Adding to the experience is a superb wine list that boasts over 200 bottles from around the world. Dine in one of many private rooms or sit in the garden and soak up the tropical ambience. Threecourse set menus are available starting at 350 ++ baht (250 ++ baht for kids), and a buffet lunch menu from 280 ++ baht. Refer to BigChilli when you visit Palazzo to receive 10% discount on the a la carte menu. (Delivery and Catering services are available) 335 Sukhumvit 55 Road, (Thonglor 02 712 9900 17) : info@palazzothonglor.com :palazzothonglor.com

☎

Tapas Café

Bangkok’s first authentic Spanish Tapas restaurant is comfortable and lively and busy every night. Every dish on the menu has its own unique and delicious flavors – Embutidos Mixtos (A selection of Spanish ham and sausages); Gambas al Ajillo (Prawns in spicy garlic sauce); Chiperones Plancha (Grilled baby squid). Simply close your eyes and pick dishes at random; with tastes this good, you can’t go wrong.

Sukhumvit Soi 11 (Nana BTS) 02 651 2947 :tapasiarestaurants.com

☎

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Gourmet

Dining out|Spasso

Review

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Spasso

Now in its 21st year, Spasso is a classic venue for great food and legendary fun

FOR some, it’s a legendary nightclub, while others think of Spasso as an elegant restaurant with an exciting ambience and a passionate chef who knows all there is to know about Italian cuisine. Yet another group combines all these elements into a truly exceptional venue in the heart of Bangkok.

And in a city where restaurants come and go with sometimes alarming speed, Spasso has certainly stood the test of time, recently celebrating its 21st anniversary.

It’s a pretty rare achievement which speaks volumes of the restaurant’s quality, style and enduring appeal.

Located on the lower lobby of the Grand Hyatt Erawan, Spasso is the ideal choice to savour authentic Italian cuisine prepared using top quality ingredients— be it a business luncheon, a casual meal after a shopping spree, dinner dates to make an impression or a leisurely Sunday brunch with the family.

Visit during the restaurant’s bustling Buffet Lunch and you will find long tables full of diners enjoying a huge

selection of appetizers and salads, along with pizzas, pastas and desserts, for just B650++ per person.

In the evening, the long tables are replaced by well-dressed smaller tables, complete with candles and low lighting – classic Italian elements – designed to create a romantic and intimate dining ambience.

Taking care of the cooking is Head Chef Loris Pistillo, whose approach to his art is to offer the best of Italy, including authentic regional specialties made from premium quality ingredients, such as organic vegetables from the hotel’s own farm.

Highly recommended to start proceedings is the Pan-fried Atlantic scallops, pumpkin ragú, sundried tomatoes and crispy bacon (B520++), a tasty treat blending subtle and rich flavours to delicious effect.

Moving onto mains, Braised Wagyu beef cheek on Milanese risotto (B760++), one of Chef Loris’s favourite dishes from Milan, is a must try, featuring

Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Rajdamri Road, Open daily noon-3pm; 6.30pm-2am

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deliciously tender meat and expertly cooked risotto for a great balance of textures. Also not to be missed is the Hand-cut fresh egg pasta with wild boar ragú and mushrooms (B560++) – a hearty portion packed full of flavour.

Vegetarians needn’t be put off with all this meat talk. The menu boasts a wealth of veggie options, and there’s even regular special items to choose from like Grilled smoked mozzarella cheese with marinated vegetables, balsamic reduction and rucola (B460++).

To finish off the night, Srisolona (B220++), a crunchy nut tart with hazelnut ice cream, is a great option.

But if the night is still young, take a sip of your favourite cocktail—like Passion Fruit Batida or Berry Sherry (B350++ per glass)—or a glass of wine from Spasso’s extensive cellar, and relax into the night with the rhythm of the live music performed by international bands hailing from North America, every night from 10.30pm-2am (except Sunday).

☎ 02 254 1234 :bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

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Gourmet

Dining out|Maya

Review

Maya Restaurant and Bar

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Top marks for a spectacular rooftop venue

IT may have taken one year to construct, but it’s taken no time at all for Maya to become one of Sukhumvit’s most popular Indian restaurants offering outstanding cuisine and spectacular views of Bangkok from its rooftop location.

Located on the 29th floor of the Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22, Maya is a wonderfully open and spacious venue featuring luxurious onyx black detailing, rare marble, traditional Indian steelwork, and an open kitchen housing Thailand’s three biggest copper Tandoors.

The floor-to-ceiling windows allow for beautiful panoramas of the city, especially at night.

The restaurant has three dining areas, each offering a different but memorable experience. Khanna, the main dining area, serves North Indian cuisine; then there’s Cigarra, an intimate outdoor cigar lounge overlooking the city; and Barra, an expansive bar serving up Maya’s signature cocktails and mocktails, including Lychee splendor, BMW and Mango tango (B220 per glass), while a DJ controls the

background mood.

Hand towels in the form of a compressed tablet are served on a small silver tray with an engraved pattern of a tree bark. A few drops of cool water puffs up the tablet into a cold, rose-scented hand towel.

Now the journey of this flavoursome cuisine can begin. Alongside the complimentary papadum and five different chutneys, highly recommended to start the proceedings are succulent Murgh chandi kebab (B380), a chicken marinated with yoghurt, cardamom and mace, finished with edible silver leaf; and Duet of peshawari and zafrani paneer tikka (B340). To bring out the flavours of the chicken marinated with yoghurt, try eating it with a ring of onion with a squeeze of lime.

For mains, served with freshly baked garlic naan, Makhani Chooza (B400) – chunks of marinated boneless chicken leg simmered in a rich tomato and fenugreek gravy – is a great option. Equally enticing is Jhinga Khada Masala (B800), a juicy,

Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 (29th floor), 1 Sukhumvit 22, Klongton

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plump king prawn dish which boasts a blend of herbs and spices.

If vegetables suit your palate better than meat dishes, do try Dal maya (B250). The black lentils used are simmered overnight (to get a better taste) with tomato puree and garlic, and with churned butter as the final touch, the dish is fairly creamy and tangy yet still maintains a certain spiciness on the tongue.

Rounding off a great menu is a range of carefully crafted desserts, including Kesar Phirnee (B180), a light yet refreshing basmati rice pudding infused with saffron and topped with pistachio slices.

As you’d expect from such a fine dining restaurant, all food is served swiftly and efficiently, and always arrives at the table piping hot; curries come in brass pots and are kept warm above candles.

A good selection of international wines (starts a B1,200 per bottle; B250 per glass) is also available.

☎ 02 683 4888 :mayathailand.com

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Gourmet

Dining out|Kaguya

Review

A

Kaguya

Japanese and European cuisines combine to delicious effect at this new Gastro Bar on Soi Thonglor

A JAPANESE proverb says: “If you are fortunate enough to have the enjoyable experience of eating something new, your life will be lengthened by seventy-five years.”

If that’s true you should definitely visit Kaguya, a brand new Japanese Gastro Bar on Thonglor Soi 10, where you’ll find an exciting new spin on the usual Japanese dining experience.

Taking Japanese cuisine and presenting it with European flare, the restaurant also blends western and oriental design elements to striking effect – thatched bamboo screens lead up to a ceiling lined with striking wooden blocks; Japanese-style tables (think low-slung, uncluttered) point towards an attractive bar made of stone.

Thanks to the restaurant’s thoughtful design, customers are able to choose their own atmosphere.

On a night out with friends and want to experience a touch of chic and trendy Thonglor? Sit outside and relax on the large white sofa while watching the good

looking locals wander by.

Looking for a romantic dinner with your partner? First go to the cocktail bar and surprise your loved one with one of Kaguya’s unique and extraordinary beverages. Created by a team of professional mixologists, these include the superb Gentlemen Truth (B320)—a foam-topped gin-based cocktail designed to reflect what ladies are looking for in a man: a soft, grounded character with an exciting yet tender core. And boy, once you get through the foam does this drink deliver – boozy and smooth in equal measure.

To ensure your cocktails remain cool in the sultry Bangkok heat, the talented bar staff even create unique balls of ice which remain solid until you’ve finished your drink, a neat trick that prevents any unsatisfying dilution of the vibrant flavours.

After you’ve set the scene with a drink or two it’s then time to head upstairs to experience the restaurant’s modern interpretation of Japanese cuisine.

Kaguya The Third Place, Thonglor 10. Open daily 5.30pm-1am.

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A recommended dish to start with is the Ocean (B300), a clear soup served in two halves – the first, a ceramic bottle holding a clear broth made of tuna bones giving off an ‘ocean’ fragrance; the second, another bowl containing fish, French truffels and Longan. When the clear soup is poured into the bowl, the colour of the broth turns into a delicious golden hue.

The philosophy behind this dish is that you are standing with your feet in the water but you’re still getting fresh air from the ocean.

After this you should try the Tempura Liquid (B380): a Japanese dish with a twist. The tempura comes in shrimp balls with a surprising bite – there’s bisque inside!

Also do not miss the Spring rolls (B420), a dish of steamed tiger prawns with French butter, Chinese chives and sesame broth, which has an interesting combination of pure gold leaf on ginger as the finishing touch. A real treat that’s perfect for sharing.

☎ 02 714 9974

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Gourmet

Dining out|Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok

Review

Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok

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Enjoy rock and roll dining in the heart of Siam Square

LIKE rock veterans Mick Jagger, Bruce Springsteen, and Debbie Harry, the world famous Hard Rock Cafe chain needs no introduction. Renowned for serving hearty portions of American cuisine in a vibrant atmosphere fuelled by “rock ‘n’ roll” service (Hard Rock’s staff are famously spunky characters; think coloured hair, nose piercings, and vibrant personalities) the restaurant is a true rock-star of the dining world – big, flamboyant, and charismatic, too The Bangkok iteration of the franchise, located in Siam Square, has been flying the flag for the Hard Rock brand for the past 22 years, and its longevity – especially in a city where many restaurants open and close in a matter of months – is testament to its adherence to the restaurant’s guiding philosophy, “Love All, Serve All,” as well as the quality of the food and entertainment on offer.

Boasting an industrial design inspired

by Bangkok, the restaurant blends reds,

greys and blacks to cool, modern effect, while plenty of colour is added by the various memorabilia hanging on the restaurant’s walls.

Music videos beamed from Hard Rock Cafe HQ in Orlando, USA, keep the atmosphere lively and fun and make for great conversation starters – “Was Bon Jovi’s hair really that big in the ’80s?” for instance – and then there’s the vibrant dining crowd itself, a thoroughly international mix of music lovers who also adore their food.

The restaurant’s menu features a selection of starters, salads, burgers, mains, and desserts similar to what you would find in any other Hard Rock Cafe in the world, as well as a selection of Asian dishes unique to Bangkok (the Hainanese Chicken Rice, at B300++, is delicious).

The biggest draw remains, of course, Hard Rock’s Legendary Burgers – meaty monsters made using premium Angus beef which live up to their name

Siam Square Soi 11 (near Siam BTS),

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by dominating the plate and packing plenty of flavour (for a real feast, try the signature Legendary 10oz. Burger.

B620++). But there are plenty of other delicious dishes for you to wrap your mouth around, including highlights such as Smokehouse Chop Salad (a tasty mix of greens, smoked chicken, spicy bacon, cheddar cheese, pico de gallo with a smoky citrus vinaigrette, and avocado. B400++); Fish & Chips (sea bass in a crispy beer batter. B400++); and the impressive Jumbo Combo Platter (B470++).

As for desserts, most people go for Hard Rock’s signature Hot Fudge Brownie (B300++), but we suggest you try the Banana Cream Pie (B220++), a creamy meringue-topped treat which is perfect for sharing – especially after such a hearty meal!

With live music creating a party atmosphere every night from 9.30pm1am, there really is something for everyone to enjoy at this exciting venue.

☎ 02 658 4090-3, : hardrock.com/bangkok : facebook.com/hardrockbangkok

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Expat WOMEN p Put your feet up and indulge

Our agony aunts Johanna and Anette provide more sound advive for struggling expats.

Page 76.

BWWG

Enjoy the latest slice of fiction from the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group Page 64

Shopping

Hot new products and stores demanding your attention Page 68

Health

Gluten-free diets are all the rage. But are they really good for you?

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

Monsoon Midnights Special places in Bangkok, as experienced by the Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group back of a motorcycle taxi.

It is not easy to master the art of riding a motorcycle taxi, but I have had a long, Dear reader, long time to get experience. d an Midnights’, a br on Like many local women, I so on ‘M to e m ’s Welco omen W ok gk an B decide to ride side saddle, e th ies by new series of stor elegantly perched on the slippery seat, touching the Writers Group. driver ‘s back just lightly for l al om come fr G W W B e balance, a truly acrobatic th of The story tellers ecial place sp a ve feat as we lean low into corha l al ey t th d an e over the world bu ur ners and stop abruptly at sc ob , ng si ri here surp traffic lights. A few dozen of to us in this city, somew w lo ol F ered. ov sc di un t ye us collect at the front of the as , unexpected , re he t waiting traffic at all major gh ri es ac these hidden pl intersections, the cavalry . month after month ready to fly forward into battle as soon as the lights turn green. The wind rushes past my face as the driver challenges both himself and the laws of physics to the utmost. There are rumours of NIGHTFALL OVER BANGKOK drivers being high on all sorts of substances but the ride itself is a high. We’re not just There are some very high places in Banggoing to a place, we are living impermakok. Places where you can look out and see nence. the city laid out like an interactive map Tonight’s storyteller, Morgan A beneath you. I look at the darkening sky. I Pr yce, is waiting for me at the bridge listen to the city. Although there are plenty over Khlong Ka Cha, reached through a of other night sounds – crickets, birds, dogs, snaking labyrinth of successively narrower humans, ghosts – perhaps for those who and darker side Sois. But even through can hear them, they are all submerged the noise of our own very small but nasally beneath the ceaseless concert of the internal assertive combustion engine I can hear her combustion engine, in all its variations loud, bubbly voice , excited to welcome us – from motorcycle to overnight bus to interno problem finding her! The driver secures continental airplane. his money inside the orange vest and powHow many motorcycles are racing ers away with one last spectacular burst through Bangkok tonight? A million? of speed, defying gravity. And now it’s just More? the storyteller and me, and the shadows of How many will get safely to their midnight approaching… destination? How many will crash? I can’t help thinking about that as my attention The Gate By Morgan A. Pryce is drawn to a spot on the Eastern side of Bangkok, a narrow, hard-to-find Soi someOh, hey there! Thank you so much for where along the Rama IX Road belt. There joining me at such short notice. Because are many ways to get there, but tonight I I really don’t fancy doing this alone. It will join a million others and ride on the would be so much easier if The Gate

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wasn’t supposed to open precisely three minutes after midnight, but – Yes, yes, I know. It sounds like a cliché and clichés are nothing to be scared of. Well, I thought so, too. Until I found out that no matter how harmless a place may look during the day, return to that very same spot at the witching hour and suddenly all you see is the primeval jungle of your subconscious mind come alive and every long suppressed ghost and monster turns into a pride of lurking shadows ready to pounce.

Just take the old house there on the other side of the bridge over Khlong Ka Cha. See that spiked roof through the palm trees? By daylight it’s just an ordinary deserted old Thai house standing next to an ordinary bridge over an ordinary canal. But look at it now – the place looks so dark and foreboding that you can almost see the hungry ghosts circling its spiky roof – Oh dear, I’m ever so sorry – I hope I didn’t scare you there? There’s no need to worry, really. It’s not the old house I want to take you to tonight. I need you to come with me to The Gate.

Careful now, it’s going to get a little dark once we’re past the bridge. There used to be some lights along the canal, but the last one went a couple of years ago and no one has bothered to repair them. Just follow me, stay close and you should be alright. – You don’t mind the odd bat or two, do you?

You want to know more about The Gate? Fair enough, let me see. The first thing you should know about The Gate is that it is not old, just about two years or so. I actually remember the day when the man who built The Gate arrived. I went to work in the morning as usual and there was nothing there on the other side of the canal but a few inches of dry land and a few shrubs. But when I came home in the evening, a middle-aged man was sitting on a newly built platform atop wooden stilts, wearing nothing but

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a chequered Pa-K’maa wrapped around his skinny hips. The next day, four posts rose up from the corners of the platform, supporting a roof made from left-over election boards. I guess he wasn’t partial to any particular party or candidate – as long as their portraits sheltered him from the elements, everyone’s contribution to his home seemed welcome. Over the next few weeks, his place added a ramshackle fence that grew into some kind of walls.

Then there was an outside enclosure, a pair of geese moved in, and soon after that, three pairs of stilts rose from the canal, supporting a narrow bridge. And then, one morning, there was The Gate.

But you know, the really odd thing is that no one around here has ever seen the man cross that bridge. He’s not always inside his hut, and sometimes half the geese disappear, but how and where they go, nobody knows. There are stories, though. About how the bats will not fly near The Gate – that’s true, by the way, you’ll see for yourself in a minute. And stories about a bright light that appears in the middle of the night. A couple of weeks ago, a little girl from one of the huts here even told me that she heard a scream come from The Gate. But I’m sure she just had a bad dream.

Anyway, I want to find out if any of these stories are true. They probably aren’t.

But...what if they are? What if there is something behind the Gate? Wouldn’t that be exciting?

Careful now, just a few more steps, we’re almost there. Can you see The Gate over there, right over the canal? – And no bats, see?

You know, I’m really glad you’re here. At the rate my pulse is going, who knows if I can keep my balance. If I end up in that canal, at least I have you to help me out...

Is anyone watching? I don’t see anyone, do you? No? Let’s check out that bridge then.

The thing is awfully narrow...

No, wait! Don’t follow me just yet. I don’t think this plank can carry two. I am almost... – just a few more steps... alright, I’m there.

Hmmm. That Gate looks like nothing much, just some tall wooden boards nailed to some smaller ones at the side.

Ack, there’s a padlock! No, hang on we’re ok, it’s not locked.

Let me see if I can just ... yeah, the door is opening! I’ll walk through. Yes, I’ll be careful, just one step.

T

Nothing special to see here. Just the other side of the canal and the man’s hut.

This is a bit of a let-down. I’m really sorry.

Seems I have dragged you all the way here for nothing.

Oh hang on, let me check my mobile: 00:02:58 - 00:02:59 – Owww!!! That light – I can’t see! And the wind – do you feel that, too? It’s like – like I’m being pulled or something.

Can you see anything?

Hey! Can you hear me? Say something!

If only I could see! Wait, it’s getting better, I think I can keep my eyes open in a sec – Hell no. Is this a trick?

– Well, I think I’ll keep talking, just in case you can hear me. Beats whistling in the dark, don’t you think?

There is a Gate right behind me.

I guess that’s where I must have come through. But this Gate looks completely different. It’s just as rickety, but it barely goes to my waist and there are painted stones on both sides. I guess I can go right back, but I think I will check this place out first.

Let me see... This place is not half bad, actually. I’m in a woodland clearing full of daisies and dandelions and the smell of herbs is just heavenly. The sun is shining, the birds are chirping and there’s a flock of geese on the other side. They’re eying me, but it seems they’re too full to bother with an attack, so I think I’m good.

There are two rows of monoliths to my right, I think they form some kind of alley, but I doubt they are very old. They look too freshly cut, too small and too bright. The nearest one has a carving on it. It’s quite interesting. Looks like one of these Mayan depictions of a blood sacrifice, where they cut out the victim’s beating heart and all that.

I wonder what the stone feels like, especially that hole in the victim’s chest – That’s odd. I remember one winter when I was a child. I put my wet hand against a frozen lamp post and it stuck fast for a while until my body heat thawed the ice that had formed. That’s precisely how this feels right now.

Perhaps I should wait until my hand comes off on its own? Perhaps – Oh no, that’s not good. That stone is turning – pink? Are you kidding me?

That’s not possible. I try to yank my hand away, and now I see blood trickle down the stone and my hand is turning white – this is my blood!

What is going on here?! What the devil is this place? I need to get out of here, I must get out of here! I tear at the stone – man, that hurts! I scream and then my hand comes finally free, but ... there’s a patch of my skin and flesh and blood on the stone. I think I’m going to be sick...

Right, that’s it. I’m out of here!

I run back to the Gate, I look around for another one, one that looks like the one I came through, but I can’t see one – this must be the one then!

Stay back now, it’s a bit stuck, I need to give it a push.

Ah, good, this feels right. It’s night again, and warm and humid. Say, you don’t happen to have some spare cloth I could wrap around my hand, do you? And what do you think about this bloodsucking stone – – Ummm, hey, where are you?

Please, this is not a game – oh shoot, is this the top of a – a step pyramid??

There aren’t any step pyramids across Khlong Ka Cha! Where am I? And – who is that skinny guy

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

with the spear and why is he shouting?

I’d better turn round and make my exit.

Hmmm... odd how these Gates never look the same from the other side – Oh, isn’t that just great. It’s still not Bangkok! This is a wasteland of ice and some middle-aged bloke in a white cloak of feathers is hopping up and down and shouting at me. What’s with all the shouting? – – Through a Gate again (no, I don’t even care anymore how they look...) and I’m on a sailing ship. Ladies, please, stop shouting! No, nononono don’t shoot these arrows, they’re so lovely and white, don’t waste them on me, I’m leaving already – – I’m in a cold room of gleaming metal and quills, it seems empty, but then I see a little grey man, no, not just one, there’s a whole flock of them, they’re detaching from the walls, they’re coming right at me – – I’m in a room of red-beaked masks and they’re hovering in midair and they’re feeding on roast fowl and now they’re turning and they’re looking at me – ...

I do not know if you are still with me. I have not been able to hear you since that midnight in Bangkok. But if

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you can somehow hear me, then know that I am resting now and that my hand is almost healed. There is fruit here, and nuts and berries and water, and it is relatively warm. I have not seen or heard The Bangkok Women’s Writers Group, led

by Anette Pollner, founded in 2001, is where creative women from all over the world meet to workshop their writing in a supportive and inspiring environment. Many of our members are published and prize winning authors, but we are open to all women who are passionate about writing, including complete beginners.

The BWWG has published a Thai English language bestseller, ‘Bangkok Blondes’ and various pamphlets.

We regularly give readings around town and have been part of international festivals and cultural exchanges. Please contact bkk_writers@yahoo.com for more information.

This month’s BWWG writer is Morgan A. Pryce who enjoys life in Bangkok as a nighttime fiction writer at large, daytime academic at Ramkhamhaeng University, and sometime blogger on wordpress.

any animals or other potentially hostile life forms. I am glad of it. I am not hunted here. I do not know why the gates do not lead me home. Is it the universe rotating or bad luck or madness or some cruel trick – I do not know. There is one more thing I do not know.

I do not know if I dare go through another Gate again.

There are dark, mysterious places in this city, and they all have their own story. Many people believe that Bangkok is a place where the natural and supernatural meet every night; others believe it is just the stories that connect with us and with each other.

Once again, I lift my eyes to the moon, clear and dry tonight, and far away. In the dark side Sois it casts a faint silvery shadow, the kind of shadow that could be home to all sorts of apparitions, real or unreal.

But when we get to the main road, the shadows are cast by the cars, and the city lights. The moonlight doesn’t reach here.

I will see this moon again next month, when I visit the next story teller, waiting for me already, somewhere, in an undiscovered corner of the city.

Let me take you on that journey!

TheBigChilli

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Expat Women

Shopping|New products

PRINTING TALK NEW MERCH FOR HARD ROCK ■ HARD Rock International has teamed up with iconic guitarist Eric Clapton to launch a limited series of merchandise in aid of Crossroads Centre Antigua (www.crossroadsantigua.org). The merch includes the Eric Clapton Artist T-Shirt (B1,200) which features a signed image of Eric Clapton playing his guitar on the front of the shirt, and a city-specific Hard Rock logo on the center back neck; and the Eric Clapton Artist Spotlight Pin (B590), which is a replica of Hard Rock’s first item in its iconic memorabilia collection. Both items are available now at Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok, Siam Square Soi 11. www.facebook.com/ hardrockbangkok

■ IF you’re looking for a decent printer that won’t break the bank, then the new HL-1110 Laser Printer from Brother is worth checking out. Priced just B1,590, this easy-to-use mono laser printer can reduce 2, 4, 9, 16 or 25 A4 pages onto just one A4 sheet and enlarge one A4 page into a poster using 4, 9, 16 or 25 A4 pages. It can print the date and time and/or user ID on the document and add a predefined text or user-defined message to your documents as a watermark.

The new model has an Energy Star label and comes with a new power-saving mode, which means it uses less energy and is eco-friendly. www.brother.co.th

Talking

Shop Hot products and stores demanding your attention

HAIR REPAIR FROM TRESEMMÉ

EMBROIDERY WORKSHOPS

■ IF Bangkok’s humidity is playing havoc with your hair and you’re suffering from split ends, try treating your scalp to a wash with Tresemmé’s new Split Recovery Shampoo, which has been specially designed to meet women’s needs for healthy hair and binds split-ends back together in around three uses. Other products in the new range include Rinse out Conditioner, Split Recovery Sealing Serum, and Split Recovery Mending Masque. The products are available at leading department stores nationwide.

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■ FRENCH embroidery expert Elisabeth Roulleau is returning to the Alliance Française this month to host embroidery workshops featuring various techniques ranging from traditional styles to those that make Haute Couture embroidery glitter and sparkle. A six-hour daily workshop will be held in traditional embroidery from Sept 23-25 (10am-5pm; B6,500); and a daily Introduction to Haute Couture embroidery will be held Sept 26-28 (10am-5pm; B7,900).

Workshops will be held in French, English and Italian.

Tel: 02 670 4222 email: sitanant.srichanthuk@ alliance-francaise.or.thwww.elisabethroulleau.com

TheBigChilli

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Expat Women

School Report / News

Summer School a hit at NIST

Kids’ art exhibition at Attic Studios

ATTIC Studios, Sukhumvit 31, will celebrate the work of its ‘mini Monets’ this month with a special exhibition showcasing their work. To be opened on Sept 14 from 5pm, the exhibition will feature 50 Drawings, paintings, paper sculptures, and collages all created by the art school’s students.

THIS year’s NIST Summer School and Sports Camp saw an unprecedented number of students take part in the programme from June 17 to July 12.

Elementary classes ranged from EY2 to Year 6, with one class for Secondary English practice. Students had a lot of fun and learned in a caring and safe environment while enjoying a range of specialist lessons in art, music and cooking. Some of the students who took part in Summer School this year included children from Turkey, Korea, Australia and Taiwan.

IPN EVENT

Attic Studios, 45/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02-662-0224 email: atticstudiosbkk@gmail.com

BAMBI Yard Sale

BANGKOK Mothers & Babies International (BAMBI) will hold a fun yard sale at St. Andrews International School, Sukhumvit 107, on Sept 28 from 9.30am-12.30pm (BTS Bearing Exit 1). The event will include free face painting, bouncy castle, and childcare service by St. Andrews staff for children aged 15 months+.

Entrance fee is B60.

For more details or bookings email: yardsales@bambiweb.org

National Museum Volunteers’ Annual Reception

IT’S that time of year again when members of the National Museum Volunteers (NMV) and newcomers to Bangkok are invited to join the group’s Annual Reception where they will get the chance to meet and greet old and new friends, all of whom share a love of the region’s art, history, religion and culture.

Membership is open to men and women of all nationalities. Oct 1 from 9am-12 noon at the Dusit Thani Bangkok. Admission free. www.museumvolunteersbkk.net

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“Parenting tips on raising bilingual children”

THE International Parenting Network’s monthly discussions have proved a big hit with parents and teachers alike. This month’s gathering, held on Sept 24, will feature Ondine Ullman from Bangkok Patana School sharing tips and strategies to help parents effectively support their child’s language acquisition both at home and school. She will also be discussing the role of language in personal development and debunk some myths about bilingualism.

Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand, The Penthouse, Maneeya Centre, Ploenchit Road (BTS Chidlom). 6.30pm-8.30pm. Free for IPN cardmembers and B550 for nonmembers (includes presentation, handouts, dinner, soft drinks, juices and wine) Tel: 081 826 2399 RSVP:ipn@ipnthailand.com

TheBigChilli

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Expat Women

School Report|Shrewsbury

Shrewsbury students buck UK trend to achieve exam success

■ SHREWSBURY International

School students recorded a stunning set of results in their IGCSE examinations achieving the top grades in the vast majority of papers despite falls in GCSE grades in the UK for the second year running.

A rise in the number of top grades achieved

by Shrewsbury students surpassed expectations. Some 1,079 exams were taken and 710 (66%) of them were passed at either A* or A grade – this compares to a UK national average of just 21.3%.

Two students received A* in 11 subjects, one student achieved 10 A*s and 2 As, and a further 20 students gained A* or A passes in at least 10 subjects.

In the A Level examinations, Shrewsbury students once again celebrated an impressive set of results.

More than three quarters (77%) of exams were awarded the top A*, A or B grades – compared to the UK national average of 53%.

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Behind the statistics are many individual success stories including that of Boonyaporn (Orr) Chinthammit who achieved 5 A*/A passes (Maths, Further Maths, Biology, Chemistry and Japanese). She will now take up a place at Oxford University to read Biochemistry.

Another 10 students gained 4 straight A* or A grade passes. These include former Deputy Head of School Khanittha Wang, who will now study Liberal Arts at Brown University in the US, and Napat (Pecky) Leelathuwanont, who

will continue her studies at Cambridge University in the UK reading Electrical Engineering.

A total of 76 Shrewsbury students took 247 examinations across 21 subjects.

Students sitting the Economics exam performed particularly well – of the 24 students who took the exam 21 achieved an A* or A grade pass. The A* pass rate of 63.5% compared to a UK national average of just 7%. Those gaining an A* grade included Kanapol (Toong) Chamnanchang, who will now study Real Estate and Business at New York University, and Rit Chaowanagawi, who will now take up a place at Oxford University reading Biological Sciences.

Success in the creative arts was notable too. Fifty nine per cent of students who took the Art and Design exam gained A* or A grade (compared to UK average of 28%) and 50% gained the top grades in Design Technology (UK average 17%). Gaining A* in both of these subjects and also in Mathematics was Krongkanok (Por) Harnsongkram, who will now study Architecture at Rhode Island School of Design, and also former Deputy Head of School Praew Suntiasvaraporn, who will study Industrial Design at Carnegie Mellon University in the US. In Mathematics, 83% of examinations were passed at A*, A or B grade (compared to 65% UK average). Enjoying A* grade success in Mathematics was last year’s Head of School Koen van der Hoeven, who has taken up a place at University of Pennsylvania studying Computer Science, and Tipok (Ohm) Vivattanasarn, who will read Psychology at University College London.

For more information about Shrewsbury International School see www.shrewsbury.ac.th

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W Travel

Promotion|Mercure

Mercure Krabi Deevana WITH its stunning national parks, tropical islands, and adventurous activities ranging from rock climbing and trekking to diving and yachting, Krabi province offers many wonderful experiences for visitors to enjoy. And the beautiful Mercure Krabi Resort, located near Ao Nang Beach, is the perfect base from which to enjoy them.

Offering chic and luxurious accommodation in contemporary low-rise buildings, Mercure Krabi Deevana boasts 213 rooms and suites divided between five room categories: Superior, Deluxe, Deluxe Pool Access, Family Room, and Deluxe Suite. Each is generously sized, decorated in a distinctly modern Thai-style, and equipped with all the usual modern conveniences expected of a four-star property.

At the heart of the resort lies a lagoon-style outdoor swimming pool, and around this are located the resort’s numerous facilities, which include Swan Spa (offering Thai massage, aromatherapy and herbal treatments), meetings and events rooms, a fully-equipped fitness centre and three popular restaurants and bars – everything in fact for a truly memorable holiday or rewarding business trip in one of Thailand’s most inspiring and scenic destinations. ☎ 075 639 999 email: h7539@accor.com :mercurekrabideevana.com

Mercure Magic

Get back to nature in style at these wonderful resorts in southern Thailand

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Mercure Phuket Deevana LOCATED in the heart of Patong Beach, only five minutes’ walking distance from the beach, Night Bazaar, entertainment areas and Jungceylon Shopping Mall, Mercure Phuket Deevana is a great accommodation option for anyone looking to get the most out of a visit to the island.

With 249 tastefully appointed rooms and suites, heavenly spa treatments, offbeat dining experiences, fully-equipped fitness centre, themed leisure activities and hi-tech meeting facilities, the hotel is a highlight in itself – providing something to suit all types of guests, be they individuals, couples, families or business travellers.

Excursions to local attractions such as Phuket Old Town, Koh Phi Phi, and Koh Phang Nga can be easily arranged, and the hotel also provides its own private limousine service (Phuket International Airport is just a 45 minutes’ drive from the resort). ☎ 07 630 2100 Email: info@mercurephuket.com :mercurephuketdeevana.com

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Expat Women

Advice|Problems solved

Ask the experts Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Expat life getting you down? Don’t suffer in silence. Send in your Mar r iage o n problems and get advice from the r ocks professional counsellors I have a big problem with my wife. We have been married for Anette and Johanna about eight years and she has two children from her first marriage.

I am the provider for her children as their father does not care.

If you are managing the money alone, All this time, I’ve worked very hard to pay for their studies and it can make your partner less finanI also built our home. cially aware and less responsible.

The children are in their twenties now. One has started working; the other is The same counts for your now adult still in college. Unfortunately, whenever the children want something, they go children. to their mum and she gives it to them without consulting me. The older one Do they know how to deal with doesn’t pay anything for living with us. money or are they ‘trained’ to just My wife is not earning her own money, but she will give the children the money ask and spend? What happens intended for the grocery shopping. Then she tells me she doesn’t have any more when you say ‘no’ and do they money to buy food. understand why?

I have told her numerous times I cannot work harder to get more income; You write that whenever you frankly I am tired. talk about it, you end up fighting I have the feeling these kids control our lives and she is always and walk out to cool off. But after choosing them before me. that it seems that life goes on as Whenever we talk about it we end up fighting until I leave the before until the next flare-up. Are the house and wander around until I have cooled off. children aware of your fights?

We seem unable to solve this issue between us, and This is a perfect way to never get an I am not sure if I want to continue always coming second in her issue resolved! life and being used by her and her children.

You and your wife need to become a I feel I cannot say that much as I am only their couple that is united in decisions about stepfather, but if things don’t change I am ready to providing money for your children. And leave this marriage. you also need to decide together what you want the children to be responsible Benoit, 51, from France for, particularly if they already have their own income. The goal should be that you want to teach them how to become responsible adults and prepare them to Dear Benoit, stand on their own feet. Everyone will have to live within the budget, including ■ I’m not sure from your letter if this is you and your wife. an intercultural marriage? If so, cultural When discussing this you could take values could be part of your problems. the lead in a calm and factual manner.

You came into the family when the Prepare the facts on paper and stay calm kids were already teenagers. How did you when others start to react emotionally. Alrelate to them? Did your wife acknowllow critical comments or suggestions for edge you as their caretaker in front of the the budget and write them down. Start children? this talk with your wife first, and after the On the subject of money, have you two of you have talked and agreed about and your wife ever talked about finances it, the topic needs to be discussed with and how to manage this in your marboth children. riage? Does she know how much you If you think you cannot do this it is make and what the family expenses are? perhaps wise to go for some counseling Do you manage the finances within your sessions. This problem can be managed, family together or do you give her a if you decide to manage it! If you just certain amount per month and handle the break up your marriage you won’t feel rest on your own? good about yourself. Acknowledge the fact you are a responsible and caring • Johanna DeKoning MS is the husband and father.

Clinical Director of NCS Counseling Center. She trained in the I hope this will help you and your Netherlands and Australia. family.

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What beco mes of t h e br ok en h eart ed?

those images are based on are still in our lives, we get a regular reality check. If they have left us, the relationship is, in a way, with aspects of ourselves (which I am worried that I am not normal. Not anymore. A year ago, my can be very interesting and add to our boyfriend of five years left me for another woman. It came out of the self-knowledge). blue, at least for me, and I was in shock for a few months.

There is no timeline for recovery from loss; there is no timetable All that time, all I could feel was that I still loved him. I was willing to for grief. And there certainly is no work it out with him but that was not what he wanted – he wanted to ‘norm’ for getting over it. leave. And he left. He said he didn’t love me and perhaps he never had really Don’t let other people dictate loved me, not in the way he loved his new girlfriend. what you should or should not feel.

But on the other hand, maybe it is The separation was so painful. My whole body hurt. I had chest pains and time to investigate what it is that couldn’t stop crying. you still love so much. Is it partly connected with your own hopes and Later I felt numb and for the last few months I’ve been able to your own potential? Are you grieving function ok. But I still love him. That’s all I can feel. I still love for the person you could have been if this man, although I haven’t seen him for almost a year and you were still in the relationship? he doesn’t love me. My friends and family don’t want to hear about it Questions like these can be producanymore. I’ve been invited out on a few dates but I just can’t tive, and help you to become curious about imagine getting close to anyone else. yourself again. Your life is still unfolding, and your grief and loss is part of it.

I am afraid I will never come out of this. This is Unlike the separation which was not normal, is it? I’m not a widow and forced on you, the way you live now is I should get over it. your decision.

Estela, 27, from Spain Dear Estela

■ Grief is very individual.

And what you are experiencing is grief.

You say ‘I am not a widow’ but although your partner did not die, you lost him, and it seems you lost him both suddenly and permanently. For the human mind, that is very similar to the sudden death of a loved one, one of the most disturbing and traumatic experiences. It is very difficult to make sense of this event in terms of your own life story, since he left you for reasons connected with his own life and, for you, it came ‘out of the blue.’ And since there was no reason, until then, for you to become less attached to him.

When people are faced with the sudden departure (or even with the unexpected discovery of betrayal) by a partner, they are often puzzled by the fact that their feelings don’t change immediately. They may be angry, hurt and sad, and they certainly are shocked, but very often they feel what you felt – ‘I still love him.’

It takes some time to absorb the change. Particularly if you never suspected anything. Particularly if your feelings and your attachment have been consis-

tent for a long time.

You very accurately describe some of the stages of the grieving process in your letter – shock, inability to absorb the event, sadness, and eventual acceptance of the event. The one stage that seems to be missing is anger. Of course you don’t have to go through all the stages – this is a model to describe experience and not a rule you have to fulfill – but it’s still something that caught my attention. You have every reason to be angry, and anger is a very active emotion that can help you to feel who you are. Is there maybe a connection between the missing anger and the continued attachment to the memory of the man who loved you?

What’s important to realise is that the man you say you still love is, by now, a memory, an image in your own mind.

This is what you are still attached to, and this is what you love.

It doesn’t mean that you are not ‘normal.’ On the contrary, this is how we construct all our relationships.

Our minds create images we can relate to. If the people

• Anette Pollner Adv. Dipl. Couns., is one of seven international counsellors at NCS Counseling Center in Saphan Kwai. She trained in London and the US and worked as a staff counsellor at Bart’s Hospital in London.

Contact details: ncs-counseling.com, anette.p@ncs-counseling.com, Tel: 02 279 8503 Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com TheBigChilli

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Expat Women

Health|Nutrition

Gluten free products: the new diet trend?

Judith Coulson, Executive Director of BKK-Health.com, explains the benefits of a gluten free diet Which whole foods contain Gluten?

Dieticians suggest cutting out the following whole grains and all products containing them either as a whole or in the form of flour: • Wheat • Rye • Barley

■ PAY a visit to any shopping mall in Bangkok and you’re bound to find a plethora of products containing stickers or labels that proclaim the products are ‘Gluten Free.’ The food industry has found its new niche to sell more products on the hype of a new diet trend – one that’s advocated by celebrities such as Gwyneth Paltrow.

But what are gluten and why would you chose to eat gluten-free products?

What are Gluten?

Gluten (from Latin gluten, “glue”) is a protein found in foods processed from wheat and wheat related grain species.

Gluten gives elasticity to dough, helping it rise, keeps it in shape and often gives the final product a chewy texture. Gluten may also be found in some cosmetics, hair products, and other dermatological preparations as well as in medicine and vitamin supplements.

Who needs to eat gluten-free?

The only disease that requires people to eat gluten-free is Coeliac Disease, also known as celiac sprue. This is a

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genetically linked autoimmune disorder that can affect both children and adults.

People with Coeliac Disease set off an immune response that causes damage to the small intestine when they eat gluten containing foods. This damage interferes with the small intestine’s ability to absorb nutrients during the digestion process, leading to malnutrition and a whole range of organ, muscle and bone damage. With a gluten free diet your intestine can heal itself.

Symptoms for Celiac Disease Some people are very sensitive to gluten and can show reactions after only eating a bread crumb. Other people do have an immune response to gluten and, while they damage their intestine with each gluten containing meal, they don’t react much. Look out for the following symptoms and get yourself tested if experiencing: • Returning general irritable bowel • Frequent constipation • Regular diarrhoea • Itchy skin • Infertility

Some sources count oats to the gluten containing grains too. Not because oats contain gluten, but because they are often processed in the same mills as wheat, rye or barley and therefore are crosscontaminated.

People with Coeliac Disease are well advised to learn how to read food labels, as many processed foods contain flours made of wheat, rye or barley.

Obvious Sources: Breaded foods, breads, bagels, croissants, buns, cakes, donuts, pies, most cereals, cold cuts, hot dogs, salami, sausage, crackers, processed snacks, potato and tortilla chips, gravy, pancakes, waffles, pasta, pizza, most soups, stuffing.

Less obvious: Beer, candies, croutons, readymade marinades and sauces, soy and teriyaki sauces, salad dressings.

What can you eat instead?

• Beans, lentils, pulses • Cereals made without wheat or barley malt • Corn • Fruits and vegetables • Meat, poultry, fish (not breaded or with regular gravy) • Milk based products, (watch out for fat free and low sugar products as they often contain fillers like wheat flour)

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• Oats (if stated on the package that they are gluten free) • Potatoes (not if deep fried in the same oil as breaded products as this reults in cross contamination) • Whole grain rice, quinoa, amaranth, buckwheat (has nothing to do with wheat), millet.

How about adopting a gluten-free diet if you don’t have Coeliac Disease?

There is nothing wrong with adopting a gluten free diet if you don’t have Celiac Disease. Many people experience that they drop weight, as soon as they stop eating mainly wheat containing foods, while they automatically eat less processed and more whole foods.

By eating a greater diversity of grains, staying away from deep fried and breaded foods, sweets, pastry and highly processed meats and dairy products, people automatically eat less preservatives, colouring and additives, sugar, fat and salt, what makes them feel overall better.

“People with Coeliac Disease are well advised to learn how to read food labels, as many processed foods contain flours made of wheat, rye or barley.”

Be careful with ready to use gluten-free products, like baking and bread mixtures, pasta, flour and so on. Gluten-free processed products are low in fibre and therefore can cause you a whole set of other complications in the long run. And processed products stay processed products, therefore they contain a whole range of ingredients that make the products add flavours and textures, but don’t add any value to your health or weight management efforts.

Gluten free diets yes, but only if you don’t switch from one processed product to another.

Judith Coulson is a Medical & Lifestyle Nutrition Coach available for private coaching sessions and corporate wellness workshops.

Email: Judith@bkk-health.com for further information how to read food labels and create a balanced diet plan.

Resources: Celiac Sprue Association, National Digestive Diseases Information Clearinghouse (NDDIC) AD Destination_Dec12.indd 1

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TAXI! Feature

Insight|On the road

Why everybody should hail Bangkok’s cabbies Most people would agree it’s a lousy job but someone’s got to do it. Without taxis, the city simply wouldn’t function.

So that’s why it’s only right to applaud this hardy and often unfairly maligned group of workers.

Maxmilian Wechsler talks to four cabbies about their day-to-day challenges on Bangkok’s congested streets 80

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BANGKOK’S uniquely colored taxis are so much a part of the local scenery that it’s hard to imagine the capital without them. You see them everywhere, day and night, in numbers not matched anywhere else. More than 100,000 taxis are registered with the Department of Land and Transport (DLT), either privately owned or rented from over 100 taxi companies and cooperatives in the city.

Driving a cab is a stressful and sometimes dangerous occupation. To make a living and support their families, these hardy individuals spend long hours driving on chronically congested and often dilapidated roads, enveloped by noxious fumes and forever facing the possibility of picking up some unsavory characters. Taxi drivers are generally looked down upon by other motorists and often subjected to criticism from the media – sometimes warranted, sometimes not.

Rare incidents like the one involving a taxi driver who attacked and killed an American man last July after a dispute over a 50-baht fare are widely publicized by local and foreign media. There are also numerous complaints over less serious incidents which put taxi drivers in a bad light.

For example, a letter printed recently in the Bangkok Post described how two foreigners hired a taxi to take them from Suvanabhumi Airport to the Silom area and were amazed to see the meter reading 2,077 baht for a distance of 255 kilometers when they arrived at their destination. They refused to pay, and walked away unmolested after giving the driver 300 baht.

According to the DLT, the most common complaints from Thai and foreign passengers concern drivers who refuse to accept a customer, impolite behavior, unusually high fares and failure to take a customer to an agreed destination. But the DLT says that it is only a relatively few of the city’s 100,000 cab drivers who tarnish the reputation of the overwhelming majority who don’t cheat customers, always use the meter and always deliver customers safely to their destination. Most frequent users of taxis in the city, whether Thai or foreign, would probably agree.

Unless they speak some Thai and want to talk to their taxi driver, most foreigners in Bangkok only know them by the backs of their heads.

In order to get an understanding of the typical taxi driver in the city, The BigChilli recently interviewed a number of drivers at length. To summarize, most said that it is getting increasingly difficult to make a living due to competition from other types of public transport like motorcycle taxis, minibuses and the BTS Skytrain and underground rail systems.

They also face competition from an ever increasing number of fellow taxi drivers. Most believe their future is bleak, especially as the vehicles they rent or buy are ageing rapidly and replacing them is almost impossibly expensive. To make ends meet, some cabbies take a second job, some gamble and a few look for ways to cheat customers.

Mrs Srisaang Ruangthai:

“I don’t carry any weapons, but I’ve developed an instinct and if I feel there could be trouble from a passenger I won’t go.”

Srisaang Ruangthai is one of Bangkok’s small band of lady taxi drivers. Born in Nonthaburi province, she is married with one child.

Srisaang has driven her own cab for four years. Before that she was a housewife, but decided to start driving because she wanted to help her husband provide for the family. She says she likes the freedom of driving her own taxi and not having a boss.

“I am driving a Toyota Limo I bought on hire-purchase in 2006 for 700,000 baht, and I joined with a large taxi cooperative.

They painted the car and installed the radio transceiver. They can contact me and find customers for me. I can also call for help in case of trouble or an accident. The car has GPS installed, so the company always knows where I am. I pay them a fee of 2,000 baht per year,” Mrs Srisaang said.

“I usually drive from 6am to 11pm. I take the passenger anywhere he or she wants to go, whatever the distance. My daily expense is about 700 baht, most of it for LPG fuel. I drive a lot and clear up to 1,000 baht a day.

“There are now more taxis in Bangkok than when I started, but I think that there are also more people looking for taxis than before as the population is increasing.

“I will accept all passengers except those who look ‘rough’, are drunk or look like they’re on drugs. I am more careful if the customer wants to go to a small soi or isolated place. If I don’t know the destination or the customer is not sure where to go, I won’t drive. I don’t carry any weapon or any kind of protection, but I’ve developed an instinct and if I feel there could be trouble I won’t go.

“However, sometimes I will take a risk and accept a customer I don’t like the looks of or go to a place I don’t really want to go. This makes me afraid, but so far I’ve never been attacked or experienced any problems with a passenger.

“So far, I’ve only had three customers who haven’t paid the fare - they were all teenagers. Two just took off from the taxi after arriving at the destination. I didn’t chase them. The third said that he didn’t have any money, so I just let him go.”

Mrs Srisaang said she has third class insurance.

She said she didn’t get much training before taking to the road but knows Bangkok and surrounding provinces pretty well.

She goes to the DLT twice a year for a road worthiness check of her cab, which is required for all taxis. Mrs Srisaang said she receives a tip from almost all her passengers and checks the taxi before they leave to see if they have left any belongings. She will allow small animals provided they are properly secured by the owner.

“I will accept any person wherever they are going, even if it’s Pantip Plaza and there’s a traffic jam on Petchaburi Road, because this is my job. I can’t choose.”

She believes taxi fares should be raised. “Everything is going up, so why should taxi fares be excluded?

“There are too many taxis in Bangkok. I will drive this car for two or three more years, until it is too old and in bad condition.

Then I will buy a new one or retire,” Mrs Srisaang said.

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Feature

Insight|On the road

Jansri Pandee: “Buying my own taxi was the right decision”

Mr Jansri Pandee owns his taxi and has been driving since 1987. He was born in the Rangsit area of Bangkok and is married with three children.

“Before becoming a taxi driver I worked at the Chulalongkorn hospital pharmacy. After leaving that job I decided to buy a taxi and drive it myself, and looking back, I made the right decision. I don’t have to pay rent to the taxi company or worry whether they have a car available for me, and I can drive when I want, which is the best part. I like to be free and independent,” Mr Jansri said.

“I drive a Toyota Limo which I bought for 950,000 baht on a hire-purchase arrangement, including interest for five years.

It is the third car I have owned since becoming a taxi driver,” said Mr Jansri, adding that there are many places in Bangkok where a taxi can be bought.

Mr Jansri normally works from 6am to 4pm. He doesn’t work at night because the glare from oncoming headlights bothers his eyes. He knows Bangkok and surrounding provinces very well and there are not too many places he hasn’t been. If a customer wants to go up-country, he will usually use the meter but charges an extra 300 baht to cover fuel costs for the return trip to Bangkok. He can speak some English and doesn’t have a radio transceiver installed in his car because, as he says, “I don’t need one.

“My car runs on natural gas (NGV) and the fuel cost is about 400 baht a day. I can usually take in about 1,500 baht per day, so my profit is around 1,100 baht. But it’s getting harder.

When I started to drive, there were only buses, tuk-tuks and boats to compete with. Now it is motorcycle taxis, minibuses and mass transit,” said Mr Jansri, adding that motorcycle taxis take the biggest chunk of customers from taxis.

He said he normally accepts any customer, though on occasions he might refuse a fare during early morning or evening rush hours because he can’t afford to waste fuel by standing in traffic.

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Driving a taxi is not particularly dangerous, but he is careful because customers have tried to rob him in the past.

He doesn’t like to accept customers who have been drinking heavily, but usually will if they don’t appear too drunk. “I tell them not to make the car dirty (he’s especially worried about them vomiting, as has happened on a few occasions), and they must tell me their exact destination.

“It’s only happened a few times that passengers couldn’t pay the fare; these are usually drunken Thais, men or women, who just don’t have the money. Once a passenger couldn’t pay a 900 baht fare, which is the highest amount I have ever lost. I don’t fight with them, I just let them go.”

Mr Jansri said he always asks customers if they want to use the expressway because the trip will cost more. As for some well known scams, he said: “I don’t look for foreigners to take them to massage to jewelry shops or shows. Some taxi drivers do this for a commission.

“I prefer to drive around Bangkok and I don’t like to wait for customers outside hotels, shopping centers or housing developments.”

He’s never had a problem with foreigners, and even says they are “very generous” and almost always give a tip.

“One foreigner with a Thai girlfriend offered me 1,800 baht for a trip to Koh Samet instead of the 2,000 baht I asked for, but I accepted the offer. After arriving at the destination, the guy gave me 2,000 baht because he enjoyed the trip,” Mr Jansri said.

When asked his thoughts on the killing of the American, he replied: “I don’t know the facts, or who started the trouble, so I can’t comment. I only know what the media said. Surely, it is an unfortunate incident which shouldn’t have happened.”

Mr Jansri said if a passenger forgets something inside his taxi, which doesn’t happen too often, he will drive back to the point where he dropped the customer and wait there for a while.

“I don’t like children in my cab because they often behave badly. I will accept small animals like cats or dogs provided they are inside a cage or bag. I will accept four or even five passengers if they aren’t too big and heavy. Sometimes two persons take all the space in the back.”

Mr Jansri said the police sometimes stop and fine taxi drivers for small things such as wearing sandals instead of proper shoes, or if their name is not prominently displayed in Thai and English.

He believes fares should stay at their current rate because if they are increased passengers might opt for other modes of transportation.

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Niran Wongsrikaew:

“The worst customers are children”

Mr Niran Wongsrikaew comes from the northeastern province of Roi-Et. He is married with one child. After working in Taiwan for four years, he decided on his return about a year ago to drive a taxi. Many Bangkok taxi drivers seem to come from Roi-Et, which suggests an employment problem in this particular province.

“I rent a Toyota Limo from a taxi company that trained me for the job. I rent the car for 450 baht a shift and spend about 300 baht for NGV. I drive daily from 4am to 4pm. My net income is about 400 baht per day. I would prefer to own my own taxi so I wouldn’t have to pay rent everyday but at this time I don’t have enough money to even to make the required deposit. I can get a taxi every day, there’s always one available for me. I don’t drive nonstop but prefer to wait outside housing developments or condos. There are plenty around now,” Mr Niran said.

“I will bring customers anywhere, whether a short or long distance. This is my job. I will only refuse people if they are drunk, have many tattoos, are dirty or they look dangerous. I am afraid of these customers. But the worst are children. They often play around inside the car and make me nervous so I can’t concentrate.

“I usually get tips from Thais and foreigners. I will accept five customers provided they are not fat. Before the customer leaves my taxi, I will check to see if they have forgotten something inside the car.”

Mr Niran said he hasn’t had many bad experiences with passengers, but still remembers the time one cheated him out of almost 1,000 baht: “I took a passenger, a lady, from Pathum Thani to Lakrabang. After we arrived at the destination she just ran away. I didn’t chase her.”

Mr Niran, who cannot speak any English, said he believes taxi fares should be increased, but not too much.

Tayplid Srikongruk: Taxi drivers are robbed every day, especially going up-country.”

Tayplid Srikongruk was born in Chantanaburi and has been driving a taxi for only for four months. He is married with one child. Before becoming a cabbie he was a driver for a company in Bangkok and the job required him to go up-country frequently.

Mr Tayplid rents a Toyota Corolla for 700 baht a day (two shifts) from a leading taxi company and works long hours, sometimes 24 hours straight. “I use liquid petroleum gas (LPG) for fuel, which costs me about 600 baht for two shifts. After expenses I usually net around 500 or 600 baht.”

Mr Tayplid said he has no problems with the company he rents his taxi from and they provided him with training. Still, he would prefer to own his own vehicle because it is “more convenient and less worries.”

He said he will take passengers anywhere, any distance, whether in Bangkok or up-country, provided he knows the way. He either uses the meter or makes a prior agreement for payment with the customer.

“I will take all customers, but taxi drivers must be careful, especially in the evening. You can read almost daily in Thai newspapers about taxi drivers being robbed by passengers. Taxi drivers are robbed every day, especially going up-country. I think it is more dangerous for women drivers than men, and there are a lot of them these days. A few months ago a woman taxi driver took three Thai men to Nakhon Pathom province and they killed her there,” said Mr Tayplid.

He wouldn’t comment on the killing of the American, except to say “it is a tragedy.”

“I think that there are too many taxis in Bangkok already and the number is increasing. Many people now use motorcycle taxis, especially in early morning when it is not so hot. But after 9am or 10am, when it is getting warmer, they will switch to taxis.”

Like nearly all drivers, he has compulsory motor insurance (Por Ror Bor) and the company he rents the car from pays third class insurance.

“My car is equipped with a radio, so the company can contact me when a customer calls them and I can ask for directions or help when necessary. I will accept people carrying animals. Most of them want me to bring them to or from an animal clinic or hospital,” said Mr Tayplid.

He said he likes the job and the company he works for, and believes the 35 baht initial fare should remain the same.

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Feature

Insight|On the road

More cabbies’ comments

MOST taxi drivers would prefer to own their own vehicles if possible because it allows them to be more independent. It also appears that private taxi drivers are more relaxed and friendly with passengers.

Many drivers listen to Jor Sor FM 100 radio station, and call the station when a customer forgets valuables in the taxi. The station broadcasts traffic and other news and has helped many people to recover their possessions.

Taxi drivers are always suspicious if one person hails a taxi and suddenly three of four people appear and jump in the taxi.

One cabbie said that a well-dressed Thai man said he couldn’t pay after arriving at an isolated place and then asked to use his mobile phone so he could call a friend. The man then fled with the phone.

Some taxi drivers have no driver’s license and for that reason they are afraid to drive to suburbs where police checkpoints are often set up because they might be fined.

Others refuse to go to suburbs because they will likely have to come back “empty.”

Some taxi drivers with large cars prefer to work at the airport or wait outside hotels or housing developments. After they take a customer to their destination they will return to the same places.

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Taxi drivers waiting for customers outside Bangkok hotels are less likely to wear uniforms, as was the case with three drivers wearing jeans and T-shirts waiting outside a big hotel in Sukhumvit Soi 20. All spoke good English but didn’t want to give their names or be photographed. One refused to talk to us, while another said he would answer questions if we gave him 500 baht. The third talked freely for a while, saying all three drivers had been working at the same hotel for several years and they paid someone to let them park on the street all day and night outside the hotel, which is illegal.

He said he prefers to wait outside the hotel because he can choose his customers. He rents his car from a taxi company for 700 baht for two shifts. He doesn’t use the meter, but rather makes an agreement with customers on the fare.

“When the customer gets inside the car, I will try to take them to various tourist attractions and shopping spots because I get a commission. Most of my customers are families. Business is good and I can make good money in a few hours, instead of driving all day on the road,” the driver said, and then refused to say more.

By now the scams involving cabbies and tuk-tuks in tourist areas are well known. They get a hefty commission for bringing foreigners, or more precisely victims, to jewelry shops, tailors, massage parlors and other enterprises which are set up to bilk them.

It is worth noting that honest drivers rarely speak English well, which makes communication with foreigners difficult, while crooked cabbies generally do speak English fairly well.

Of course, many honest drivers are also reasonably fluent in English, especially if they have been driving a long time.

Despite many drivers insisting they are willing to go anywhere, anytime, there’s no doubt that it’s increasingly common for drivers to refuse customers. Thais and foreigners alike sometimes feel they are at the mercy of taxi drivers, especially at certain times and places. One of the most notorious places for difficult cabbies is on Petchaburi Road outside of Pantip Plaza, where taxi drivers choose customers at their leisure. One foreigner with a sense of humor desperate to get out of the area asked a cabbie, “Where do you want to go?”

Even in uncongested areas cabbies will sometimes ignore customers when they have to return the car to the company at the end of the shift. This mostly occurs at 2pm, 4pm or 6pm.

Speaking as someone who has ridden in hundreds if not thousands of Bangkok cabs over the years, I can honestly say that I have never had a really bad experience with a driver. But that doesn’t mean caution isn’t advisable, especially for females.

By coincidence a young Dutch woman who is Bangkok on an internship for a few months recently had a unpleasant encounter with a taxi driver. She was accompanied by her Dutch friend, also female.

“We hired a taxi on Petchaburi Road to go to Klong Toey.

We were both sitting in the rear,” explained the intern. “The driver could speak some English and started a conversation with us, asking the usual questions, like ‘what is your name’ and ‘where do you come from’. Shortly before we arrived at our destination, he said to me: ‘Let’s go to a cheap hotel.’ Before we got out in a hurry, he even tried to hug me,” the intern said.

“I am glad that my friend was with me because I don’t know what would happen if I was alone. I have never heard of such behavior by a taxi driver. He should lose his permit.” The intern said she wanted to lodge a complaint with the authorities but they were unable to record his name or car registration number

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Taxis, taxis everywhere

AT the end of April 2012, there were 101,718 taxis registered to operate in the city of Bangkok, with 77,053 of these registered by taxi companies and 24,665 by individual drivers, according to the DLT statistics. This is a significant increase from the end of September 2010, when there were 90,356 taxis registered in Bangkok, 68,805 registered with taxi companies and 21,551 privately owned.

Of the estimated 100-plus taxi companies in Bangkok, five or six are big operators with thousands of cars each.

The usual passenger complaints

· · ·

Many cabs are old and dirty and smell of cigarettes or other unpleasant odors.

Drivers don’t know how to get to the destination, even when they say they do.

They take the long way to increase the fare, especially when the customer is a tourist.

Very few taxi drivers speak and understand English.

· · ·

Many cabbies drive recklessly, changing lanes too frequently and speeding.

They are often moody, rude, and talk on the phone while they are driving. They refuse to turn the volume down on the radio.

Drivers stop at inconvenient places to pick up or drop off passengers, blocking traffic and sometimes creating dangerous situations.

Drivers don’t give change, claiming they don’t have any small bills or coins. (It’s always good to carry small notes or coins).

· · ·

Drivers won’t pick up passengers in the rain.

Drivers refuse to use the meter and try to negotiate a high price. Especially if they see someone is in a hurry.

Drivers refuse customers because of their destination, usually just opening the window to ask the destination first.

Customers often must hail many cabs before they find one willing to take them to their destination. (Tip: tell the driver a closer destination where it will be easier to hail another taxi).

Bangkok’s first cabs

THE first taxis were introduced in Bangkok back in 1924 by Phraya Thep Hatsadin Na Ayudhya, who established the “Taxi Siam” company with a fleet of 14 Austin cars. At that time people called them “rot mile” (mile car) because the fare was calculated at 15 satang for one mile. The “rot mile” wasn’t popular with the public because it was too expensive for most people.

In 1947, another company imported Renault cars to use as taxis in Bangkok.

The fare was about two baht per kilometer. It became very popular mode of transport. Again, people didn’t call them taxis, but “Renault.”

Taxi meters were actually installed in cabs for the first time in 1958, but the innovation didn’t catch on as both the cab drivers and their customers preferred to negotiate the price. Also, at that time there was no law to enforce the use of meters. As a result, the meters were removed.

However, as the number of vehicles in Bangkok was increasing day by day, the bargaining over taxi fares made the traffic even worse, especially during rush hours. The DLT then decided to bring back taxi meters in 1992. Now all cabs are supposed to use meters every time they pick up a customer.

It should be noted that the flag-down amount of 35 baht covering the first two kilometers has not been changed since 1992, while charges for additional kilometers were slightly adjusted twice, in 2005 and in 2008.

Ticket to ride

ANY person over 22 years of age (not having physical or mental handicap) can apply provided he or she has held a private driving license for at least one year. The applicant has to produce ID, house registration and a medical certificate stating that applicant is in a good health both physically and mentally.

After a test, which takes about five hours, the DLT sends the applicant’s information to the police department to check their background. It takes about 45 days to receive the check. If everything is in order, a taxi driver’s license and yellow taxi card will be issued.

TheBigChilli

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Y O U R U L T I M A T E W H A T ’ S O N G U I D E F O R S E P T E M B E R 1 3

What’s on pArt pPerformance pSport pFootball pMovies & Albums pBooks

Belieb it or not. Babyfaced pop sensation Justin Bieber is coming to Bangkok. Page 90.

Let’s dance

Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music returns Page 90

Wizard of Oz

Dress up as your favourite Oz character and join in the fun Page 90

Thailand Open Andy Murray is just one of the big names set to play this year Page 92

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What’s On|The Arts

Exhibitions

Sept 12 – Oct 20

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art

Global Warming

FEATURING both realistic and surrealistic oil paintings and drawings, Lampu Kansanoh’s latest exhibition explores how the passage of time impacts on human behavior and leads to discrepancies between generations.

Sept 20 – Oct 20

Art In Effect Galleries

Deconstructing Burma

Boromratchonnee Rd. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (Closed Mon) 02 422 2092 :ardelgallery.com

ART In Effect Galleries celebrates its grand opening this month with a collection of paintings by artists living in Myanmar, who each created their works while living under the former military controlled government. Some of the works have political overtones; others focus on day-to-day life in a country that was locked in turmoil for close to 50 years. Catch the opening reception on Sept 20 from 6pm-9pm.

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Sala Dang Soi 1 (across from Tree Creeper Restaurant) :artineffectbangkok.com

Sept 19 – Oct 27

Ardel’s Third Place Gallery

Common – Nature

BEAUTIFUL creatures and stunning surroundings are exquisitely presented in this series of paintings by fledgling artist Chutchawan Wannapo.

Thonglor Soi 10. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (Closed Mon) 02 422 2092 :ardelgallery.com

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Until Sept 26

La Lanta Fine Art

Circus

DALLAS-based artist Michele Mikesell presents her new technique incorporating brushing, wiping, scraping and sanding paint, resulting in a beautifully textured surface which adds depth and personality to her characters.

245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31.

Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm 02 204 0583 :lalanta.com

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Sept 5 – 28

Number 1 Gallery

Undead

SCHOOLED in both Thailand and Italy, Kriangkrai Kongkhanun is well known for combining elements of Thai culture and western artistic traditions in his work. This time around he presents a series of iconic figures seen struggling with unrelentingly sadistic demons – a fascinating contemplation of the contradictions of life.

919/1 The Silom Galleria Building, Silom Rd. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm.

083 445 8333 :number1gallery.com

☎

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What’s On|Performance

Performance

SEPT 13 – AUG 14

THAILAND CULTURAL CENTER MAIN HALL

BANGKOK’S INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF DANCE AND MUSIC

NOW in its 15th year, this popular festival will once again feature over 20 performances spread over five weeks with more than a thousand artistes taking to the stage. The program includes opera, ballet, music and dance performances, with highlights such as The Nutcracker on ice; an evening of Dutch jazz; and a Michael Jackson tribute concert. Visit the website below for a full round up of what’s on offer. bangkokfestivals.com/home SEPT 27 – 28

THE BRITISH CLUB, SILOM SOI 18

THE WIZARD OF OZ

DRESS up as your favourite Wizard of Oz character and get ready to heckle the witch in this new audience participation event by the Bangkok Community Theatre. Don’t worry if you don’t know the film, BCT provides the lyrics so you’re bound to be singing along in no time. Event features a picnic supper, a goody bag with props, costume prizes, and more.

SEPT 26

IMPACT ARENA

JUSTIN BIEBER BELIEVE TOUR

THE baby-faced pop sensation is coming to Bangkok for what’s sure to be a sell-out gig.

Get your tickets early to avoid disappointment.

Tickets range B2,500-B6,500Thaiticketmajor.com

Tickets: B500 (includes pre-show supper at 6.30pm) 087 517 2666 email: treasurer@bct-th.org bct-th.org

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SEPT 15

ROYAL BALLROOM, MANDARIN ORIENTAL BANGKOK

TONY BENNETT

BEGINNING his career in 1951 with the number one hit Because of You, 17-time Grammy Award winner Tony Bennett is one of the world’s most successful jazz artists. Held to raise funds for H.R.H. Princess Sirindhorn’s Foundation for Chitralada School, this special dinner concert will see him perform long-time hits such as I Left My Heart in San Francisco, Cold, Cold Heart, In the Middle of an Island, Stranger In Paradise, The Good Life, Fly Me To The Moon, and more. Show starts 8pm.

Tickets: B20,000 per seat thaiticketmajor.com

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SEPT 27 – 29

ASKRA THEATRE KING POWER

AGATHA CHRISTIE’S THE MOUSETRAP

THE world’s most famous “whodunit” is coming to Bangkok with an international touring cast.

Written by one of the world’s most celebrated thriller writers, Dame Agatha Christie, the play is now in its 60th year of performances in the West End – the longest continuous run of any show in the world!

Tickets range B2,000 – B4,000 Thaiticketmajor.com

• Mayayak – A Demon Hero (Thai mask play with eng subtitles. Sept 12 – 22 at Bangkok Art and Cultural Center. 7pm. B500). www.facebook.com/theatre8x8.

• Hucky Eichelmann in Bangkok (Sept 12. Bangkok Art and Culture Center. B1,200 from Thaiticketmajor.com. Half price for students. Show starts 7pm).

• Barbie Live on Stage (Sept 19 – 22. English performance on Sept 21. Impact Muang Thong Thani. B900-B2,000 from thaiticketmajor.com).

• Marina Baranova “Classical Mercy Music Concert” (Sept 21. Trinity Hall, Saint Joseph Convent School, Bangkok.

3.30pm. B500 – B2,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com).

• The Beatles 50th Anniversary Charity Concert (The Betters Live at BarSu for Unicef. Sept 29. 5pm-8.30pm. B1,500 with two standard drinks and finger food). www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com.

• Samui Latin and Jazz Week (Sept 29 – Oct 6. Amari Palm Reef Samui. B500 per ticket).

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What’s On|Outdoors

Sport SEPT 21

KRABI

THE SHERATON KRABI TROPHY 2013 ADVENTURE RACE

OVER 100 international teams are expected to take part in the second edition of this exciting race, which will once again see competitors hiking, running, swimming, cycling and kayaking in the beautiful surroundings of Krabi. The race is open to teams of two and two divisions are available – ‘Adventure’ (short, easier course) and ‘Extreme’ (long course for experienced racers). The race will start and finish on the magnificent Klong Muang Beach, where the Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort is located.

Alongside the main event, visitors will also enjoy sports activities on the beach, as well as shows, dances and entertainment. ama-events.com SEPT 21 – 29

IMPACT ARENA, MUANG THONG THANI

SEPT 15

KANCHANABURI

THAILAND OPEN

RIVER KWAI INTERNATIONAL HALF MARATHON

NEWLY-crowned Wimbledon champ Andy Murray, World #6 Tomas Berdych, and defending Thailand Open champion Richard Gasquet are just three of the big names coming to Bangkok to compete for the $631,500 prize money at this popular annual tournament, now in its 11th year as part of the ATP Tour.

Tickets range B300-B4,500 Thaiticketmajor.com thailandopen.org

THE 32nd edition of Thailand’s oldest road race will once again see around 1,500 international racers turning up to tackle the scenic course which begins and ends in front of the River Kwai Village Resort. Don’t have the stamina for a half marathon? You can always opt for the 10km course which runs alongside the main event. goadventureasia.com

OCT 6

BANYAN TREE BANGKOK SEPT 15

CHATUCHAK MARKET (OPPOSITE TMB HEADQUARTERS)

TMB ING PARKRUN 2013

DESIGNED based on TMB’s “Make THE Difference” concept, which is the belief that an individual is able to empower themselves to improve their quality of life, this minimarathon (2km, 4km, or 10.5km) is aimed at getting even the laziest folks up on their feet for a day of running fun. Entry is B300 per person. makethedifference.org/parkrun tmbbank.com/ parkrun thaiticketmajor.com

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15TH VERTICAL MARATHON

THE 15th annual Vertical Marathon will once again see fitness enthusiasts and charity supporters make their way to the Banyan Tree Bangkok to race to the hotel’s 61st floor – a leg-burning 1,093 steps from the ground-level start. The time to beat, established last year by an elite runner, is 6 mins 45 seconds. Starts at 6am. For entry details see goadventureasia.com.

Banyan Tree Bangkok, South Sathorn Road

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What’s On|Sport

Thai football in focus

SOCCER PUNDIT PAUL HEWITT EXAMINES WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE WORLD OF THAI FOOTBALL

Ups and downs of the season run in

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THERE are ten games left to play in the TPL and League 1 at the time of writing, and teams from Bangkok are involved at both ends of the table in both divisions.

Rather predictably, the race for the TPL title is of the two-horsed variety.

Muangthong United and Buriram United are once again battling for top spot whilst, once again, Chonburi look set for a third-place finish.

After a tight 3-2 win over Bangkok United on Matchday 24, Muangthong sat two points above Buriram but the latter had a game in hand. At the bottom, realistically, Bangkok United and TOT are our only clubs who could get sucked into the relegation battle though Samut Songkhram, Pattaya and Chiang Rai United are better bets for the drop. But the situation is muddied by the on-going Sisaket FC/Esan United saga.

A court ruled in August that Sisaket FC could continue to play in the TPL putting an end to the short-lived and much derided Esan United. Good news so far. The problem is that Sisaket only played three matches at the start of the season and have been in abeyance ever since whilst they waited for the courts to sort the whole mess out.

It seems impossible that they could catch up on their matches this season.

Therefore, the TPL will either have to allow the club to be relegated or, and this is the idea being favoured at the moment, expand the TPL to twenty teams in order to keep them in. This of course could have knock-on effects regarding the number of teams

Happenings off the pitch

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relegated from the TPL and/or promoted from League 1. We’ll keep you updated on this situation next month.

In League 1, there is a real battle going on between Bangkok FC and Singhtarua for the third and final automatic promotion place.

Singhtarua, of course, are looking to bounce back at the first attempt whilst Bangkok FC are aiming to break into the TPL for the

THAI football doesn’t stand still for long.

Parts of the articles in both the July and August issues were out of date before the magazine had even reached the shelves.

In July we reported on the manager merry-go-round triggered by Winnie Schäfer’s departure as Thai National Team head coach and his arrival two days later at Muangthong United. We commented at the time: “The merry-go-round has stopped for now. But perhaps Winnie shouldn’t yet.” Sage advice unpack his suitcase just yet. because sure enough Winnie was soon on his way out of Muangthong and out of Thailand as he became head coach of the Jamaica National Team. A couple of days

first time. The race is perfectly poised with both teams on 46 points with nine games to play. October 5 is a date for your diary when the two meet for what could be a promotion decider on Matchday 31 (out of 34) at the Bang Mod Stadium in Thonburi.

Air Force United and PTT Rayong seem to have the top two promotion spots tied up already. At the bottom, TTM are the only Bangkok team (despite planning to play in Lopburi at the start of the season, they’ve found themselves ‘temporarily’ playing in the capital all year) involved in the battle to beat the drop. They are currently just inside the relegation zone but only on goal difference from Siam Navy and Sriracha. Rayong United, Rayong FC and Ayutthaya – all only promoted last year – looked doomed to an immediate return to the Regional League.

And we must just give a mention to the Bangkok Division of the Regional League – overlooked too often in this column. The twelve best teams from the six Regional League Divisions don’t get automatically promoted to League 1 but go into end-ofseason play-offs, at the conclusion of which four teams will go up to the second tier League 1. At the time of writing, Paknampo NSRU have already booked their play-off place from the Bangkok Division and will be joined by one of Customs United, Kasetsart University, Bangkok Christian College or Thai Honda. Mathematically, Assumption Thonburi, Kasembundit University and North Bangkok still have a chance of qualifying, albeit a very slim one.

later, the merry-go-round deposited René Desaeyere back in the Muangthong hot seat from BEC Tero. The Belgian led the Twin Qilins to TPL glory in 2010.

Replacing René at Tero is Brazilian José Alves Bervis.

Our interview with Steven Robb in August found the Scotsman leaving Singhtarua FC for pastures new and setting up his own online fashion business.

Steven is still very much involved with Bee Inspired on a day to day basis but since the interview was conducted he has left Thailand and signed for Brechin City FC back in his native Scotland. We wish the popular winger all the best for the future.

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Farang Focus David Lebras of Air Force AVIA FC

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N A M E : D AV I D L E B R A S C L U B : A I R F O R C E AV I A F C D A T E O F B I R T H : 4 TH O C T O B E R 1 9 8 3 ( A G E 2 9 ) POSITION: MIDFIELDER N AT I O N A L I T Y: F R E N C H

THE THIRD PART OF OUR OCCASIONAL SERIES LOOKING AT FOREIGN PLAYERS IN BANGKOK.

LEBRAS first played in Thailand with BEC Tero Sasana in the TPL in 2007. He impressed so much during his short time in Nong Jork that 2007 TPL champions Chonburi signed him for their 2008 campaign. Things didn’t work out at The Sharks for the Frenchman and he soon found himself playing in Switzerland. In the 2009/10 close-season he was back in Thailand looking for a club and was soon signed by then Regional League club Nakhon Ratchasima FC. He performed well during his first season in Korat and was a key component in the squad which won promotion to League 1 the following year in 2011. In 2012 he gradually found himself out of favour as coaches came and went at the ‘Swatcats.’ He was released by Korat at the end of 2012 much to the horror of the fans who had very much taken the Breton to heart. He signed for Rayong United at the start of 2013 and then got an excellent transfer to TPL-bound Air Force during the mid-season transfer window. After starting back at the bottom with Korat in 2010, he has worked his way up and could once again be a TPL player in 2014.

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What’s On|Screen And Stereo

Movies & music OCT 3

COMEDY/DRAMA/SCI-FI

ABOUT TIME

WHEN Tim Lake (Domhnall Gleeson) realizes that he can travel back in time he uses his power to try and give himself a better life. First stop – landing a girlfriend (Rachel McAdams).

However, things take a turn for the worst when he accidentally deletes this timeline and he must win her back for a second time.

SEPT 12

BIOGRAPHY/DRAMA

JOBS

FIND out how the late Steve Jobs (Ashton Kutcher) went from fledgling entrepreneur to smartphone wizard in this biographical drama directed by Joshua Michael Stern.

SEPT 12

ACTION/ADVENTURE/ DRAMA

PAIN & GAIN

BASED on the astonishing true story of a group of personal trainers in Miami who became embroiled in criminal deals that went terribly wrong, director Michael Bay’s new comedy promises to pack plenty of punch and thrilling set pieces. Stars Mark Wahlberg, Dwayne Johnson and Anthony Mackie.

OCT 3

ANIMATION/COMEDY

THE SMURFS 2

THE bright-blue, mushroom dwelling creatures return this month for their second big-screen adventure – a quest which will see them team up with their human comrades to save Smurfette from Gargamel’s kidnapping schemes.

Movie screenings are subject to change. Keep up to date at movieseer.com

MEMORY LANE

NEW MUSIC AM

FEELS LIKE HOME

(Release date: Sept 9)

(Release date: Sept 10)

ARCTIC MONKEYS THE STANDARDS

FROM HERE TO NOW TO YOU

(Release date: Sept 10)

(Release date: Sept 17)

GLORIA ESTEFAN

JACK JOHNSON

TALES OF US

LOUD LIKE LOVE

(Release date: Sept 10)

(Release date: Sept 16)

GOLDFRAPP

PLACEBO

DYNAMICS

MGMT

(Release date: Sept 10)

(Release date: Sept 9)

HOLY GHOST

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SHERYL CROW

MGMT

TOPPING THE UK CHARTS SEPT 1993

1. Jazzy Jeff & The Fresh Prince— Boom! Shake The Room 2. Pet Shop Boys—Go West 3. M People—Moving On Up 4. Chaka Demus & Pliers—She Don’t Let Nobody 5. Nirvana—Heart-Shaped Box 6. Haddaway—Life 7. Radiohead—Creep 8. 2 Unlimited—Faces 9. Depeche Mode—Condemnation 10. Roxette—It Must Have Been Love (re-issue)

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Send your jokes to thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Jokes Just for fun

Entertainment|Humour

GIVE US FIVE MILTON JONES

DAYS ARE NUMBERED…

THREE elderly men are at the doctor’s office for a memory test. The doctor asks the first man: “What is three times three?”

“274,” is his reply.

The doctor rolls his eyes and looks up at the ceiling, and says to the second man: “It’s your turn.

What is three times three?”

“Tuesday,” replies the second man.

The doctor shakes his head sadly, then asks the third man: “Ok, your turn. What’s three times three?”

“Nine,” says the third man.

“That’s great!” says the doctor. “How did you get that?”

“Simple,” he says, “just subtract 274 from Tuesday.”

HTS THOUG E H OF T MONTH

1. A mummy covered in chocolate and nuts has been discovered in Egypt. Archaeologists believe it may be Pharaoh Roche...

2. It’s proving very difficult to find a shop selling Left Guard for my other armpit…

3. Brazil’s new Maracana stadium looks good, although I expected the pitch to just be a strip of turf on the edge of the box.

4. The great thing about a hotel mini-bar is that it allows you to see what drinks will cost in 2020.

5. I don’t want to be a party-pooper, but birthday cake gives me diarrhoea.

1. I grew up in a home that was always full of expensive and exotic items from all over the world; my parents were both baggage tenders.

2. The thing that scares me on the motorway is the thought of giant scissors coming towards me on the dotted lines.

3. I met my wife on the net. We were both rubbish trapeze artists.

4. I’ve just finished my book, The Anti-Climax.

The first part was good…

5. Have you noticed how all pine forests E smell of air-freshener?

JOK E

TH OF NTH MO

TALKING BULL

A MAN takes his wife to the livestock show and they walk down the alley that has the bull pens.

They come up to the first bull and his sign states: “This bull mated 50 times last year.” The wife turns to her husband and says: “He mated 50 times in a year, you could learn from him.”

They proceed to the next bull and his sign states: “This bull mated 65 times last year.” The wife turns to her husband and says: “This one mated 65 times last year. That is over five times a month. You can learn from this one also.”

They proceeded to the last bull and his sign says: “This bull mated 365 times last year.” The wife’s mouth drops open and she says: “WOW! He mated 365 times last year. That is ONCE A DAY!!! You could really learn from this one.”

The man turns to his wife and says: “Now you go up and inquire if it was 365 times with the same cow.”

FIVE WAYS TO TURN DOWN UNWANTED MEN HE: Hi. Didn’t we go on a date once? Or was it twice?

SHE: Must’ve been once. I never make the same mistake twice.

HE: How did you get to be so beautiful?

SHE: I must’ve been given your share.

HE: Will you go out with me this Saturday?

SHE: Sorry. I’m having a headache this weekend.

HE: Can I have your name?

SHE: Why? Don’t you already have one?

HE: Haven’t I seen you some place before?

SHE: Yes. That’s why I don’t go there anymore.

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Social  Last month’s best events in pictures

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events Chandon Party at Muse

Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World

The Charity Arts Exhibition to Honor the 81st Birthday HM Queen Sirikit at Siam Paragon

PARTIES AT A GLANCE PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID HEISCHREK

Chandon Party at Muse Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World

Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World

Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World

Lacoste 80th Anniversary Party at Sofitel So

The Charity Arts Exhibition to Honor the 81st Birthday HM Queen Sirikit at Siam Paragon

Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World

Lacoste 80th Anniversary Party at Sofitel So

Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World

The Charity Arts Exhibition to Honor the 81st Birthday HM Queen Sirikit at Siam Paragon

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The Charity Arts Exhibition to Honor the 81st Birthday HM Queen Sirikit at Siam Paragon

Chandon Party at Muse

Scotch & Soda Store Opening at Central World

Lacoste 80th Anniversary Party at Sofitel So

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

All Chambers Sundowners Executives of all nationalities were out in force for the All Chambers Sundowners networking night, hosted by the Australian-Thai Chamber of Commerce, at The Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Hard Rock’s Elvis tribute Hard Rock Cafe Bangkok marked the 36th anniversary of the death of the King of Rock and Roll, Elvis Presley, with a special concert featuring performances by three of Thailand’s best Elvis impersonators, Jaruk Viriyaku, Auther Husen, and Vasu Sangsinkaew. Each took turns on the night to belt out faithful renditions of Elvis’s best-loved hits.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Networking on a high

The amazing cityscape of Bangkok set the scene for a great night of networking when the Movers & Shakers Charity Networking Group gathered for drinks, eats and conversation on the 35th floor of the Continent Hotel, Sukhumvit 23. Over 200 guests arrived for the occasion, which was sponsored by Kingdom Property and ThyssennKrupp.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Mode Sathorn arrives in style The new Mode Sathorn Hotel managed by Siam@Siam joined forces with cocktail guru Toshiaki Aizu to host a Pre-Opening Party at the hotel’s Theatre Bar. Attended by socialites, celebrities, and Bangkok luminaries, the event featured funky music mixed by DJ Orawan and DJ Pichy, and a live saxophone performance by Lady Sax.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Arts and fashion at Nikki Beach There was plenty of glitz and glamour at Nikki Beach Resort Koh Samui’s Fashion & Arts Weekend, which featured the best of fashion, food, art and music over three fun-packed days. For more details see www.nikkibeachthailand.com. Photos by David Heischrek for Nikki Beach Resort Koh Samui.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Kaguya’s Open House The new Kaguya Gastro Bar on Thonglor Soi 10 held an open house to showcase its innovative cocktails and modern interpretation of Japanese cuisine, with free-flow drinks and eats carrying the party late into the night. Read a full review of the restaurant on page 60.

Oktoberfest by the sea

Hilton Pattaya, in partnership with Paulaner, launched its ‘Oktoberfest by the sea’ promotion with a party featuring authentic German cuisine, enticing cool beers and traditional German music at the hotel’s Seaboard Ballroom, level 17.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Siriyothai wows the crowds Somtow Sucharitkul’s Siriyothai, a unique performance blending western narrative ballet with Thai dance drama, was held last month at The Thailand Cultural Center where it thrilled audiences with its stunning design, choreography, and music by the Siam Philharmonic Orchestra.

Burma in a new light A big crowd braved the rain and traffic to attend the launch of ‘Burmese Light,’ a beautiful new book by photographer Hans Kemp and author Tom Vater at Asia Books, Central World.

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Social|Around Last Month’s town Best Events

Conrad Bangkok runs for a cause

Guy Laroche announces its latest campaigns

THE management of Guy Laroche and Daks held a media briefing to announce the latest marketing campaign by Guy Laroche, ‘The 4th Annual Sweet Escape to Switzerland & Italy,’ which will give shoppers the chance to win an all-expenses paid, romantic getaway for two to Switzerland and Italy. The media briefing was joined by Mr. Paul Meng, Director of Public Relations of Teerak Studio; celebrated movie star, Kan-Natthawat Chainarongsophon; singers from KPN Music Academy; and Evo Nine, Thailand’s hottest new boy band from Mono Music Records.

MEMBERS of the Conrad Bangkok led by the hotel’s general manager, Harald Feurstein, participated in the 12th Queen’s Cup Half Marathon 2013, a sports charity event of Chalerm Phrakiart Mother’s Day Run 2013 which started and ended at the Queen Sirikit Center. A percentage of the registration fees for the marathon were contributed to the Queen Sirikit Center for Breast Cancer, King Chulalongkorn Memorial Hospital and the Thai Red Cross Society.

Burger King Thailand’s Man of The Year introduces new menu announced KHUN Prapat Siangjan, General THE final round of the Thailand’s Man of The Year 2013 Competition was held on Aug 18 at Dream Hotel Bangkok, Sukhumvit Soi 15.

First place went to Khun Khunakorn Wongpayak, who will now represent Thailand in the Mister International 2013 competition in Jakarta, Indonesia.

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Manager of Burger King (Thailand) Ltd., held a special event to launch a new menu of Premium Burgers, made from 100% Australian Angus XT beef, at the Burger King branch on the 6th Floor of CentralWorld, Beacon Zone.

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Diplomats p Meet the people uniting nations

HE Mrs Batoon-Garcia The Ambassador of the Philippines looks forward to AEC in 2015 Page 117

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Diplomats

HE Mrs Batoon-Garcia|The Philippines

‘Travel exchanges can help our two countries understand each other better’ Philippines Ambassador Jocelyn Batoon-Garcia looks forward to AEC in 2015

B

By Maxmilian Wechsler

Before entering the large embassy compound of the Republic of the Philippines, you can’t miss the exhibition of colorful photos of the country’s tourism sites displayed along the perimeter wall fronting Sukhumvit Road. Pedestrians as well as motorists who normally move at a snail’s pace along the busy road have a good chance to view the exhibition. It is a very original idea you won’t find duplicated at any other embassy in Bangkok.

The exhibition, called “It’s more fun in the Philippines”, was launched in a media event on June 27 by Her Excellency Jocelyn Batoon-Garcia, Philippine ambassador to Thailand.

During the interview in her office, Mrs Batoon-Garcia was in her trademark jovial mood; joining us was Minister and Consul General Edgar B. Badajos, second in charge at the embassy and also very pleasant.

Before getting to the business at hand, the ambassador talked about the interview of HE Mr Kesang Wangdi, ambassador of Bhutan to Thailand, in a recent issue of this magazine. She said she admired the ambassador’s traditional Bhutanese costume and also his government’s initiative to achieve “Gross National Happiness” for the slightly more than 700,000 citizens of the beautiful country.

“It is a good thing to aim for, but for the Philippines, with a population of about 92 million, it would be more difficult to make everyone happy,” she observed.

Mrs Batoon-Garcia was born in Manila, proudly calling herself a “Manilana.” Graduating from the University of the Philippines with a bachelor of science in foreign service, she then pursued a degree in law. She joined the Department of Foreign Affairs in the early 1980s.

In her more than thirty years with the department prior to coming to Thailand to take charge of the embassy, she was given a wide variety of assignments in the Philippines and abroad. Her first ambassadorial posting was as ambassador

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to Venezuela, Trinidad and Tobago. Based in the Venezuelan capital Caracas, she had consular or oversight jurisdiction over nineteen other countries and territories in the Caribbean.

Before that she served in various capacities in the Philippine embassies in Washington D.C. and Tokyo.

In Manila, Mrs Batoon-Garcia has held positions including acting director of the Foreign Service Institute, acting assistant secretary of Personnel and Administrative Services and executive director of the Office of the United Nations and other international organizations.

“I visited Thailand for the first time while attending an ASEAN ministerial conference on energy in 1985 and I had been back a few times to attend other conferences before coming as ambassador in 2012,” said Mrs Batoon-Garcia. She took up her official duties in October and presented her credentials to His Royal Highness Crown Prince Maha Vajiralongkorn in August.

Mrs Batoon-Garcia explained that normally Philippine ambassadors are given six-year assignments abroad, during which time they may be posted in two countries. In her case, she was posted in Caracas for three and a half years, so she will be here for two and a half.

Mrs Batoon-Garcia’s husband is Evan P. Garcia, Undersecretary of the Philippine Department of Foreign Affairs. They have a son.

Assignment in Venezuela

On her posting to Venezuela, she said: “It’s a very beautiful country with great diversity, from beaches to plains to beautiful mountain ranges. In Caracas I lived behind a mountain range.

It is a very interesting place and I was there during a very interesting time.”

“I was there when the country was under the late President Hugo Chavez. President Chávez said he was a Marxist, but the

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ABOUT THE PHILIPPINES The Republic of the Philippines is made up of 7,107 islands with a total area of about 300,000 square kilometers of both land and sea and has the fourth largest coastline in the world, at 36,289 kilometers. The estimated population of the Philippines is around 92 million as of May 2010 with Manila as the capital. Metropolitan Manila contains 16 cities with an estimated population of over 11 million and the Greater Manila is home to about 25 million people, almost a quarter of the population of the entire country. The official language is Filipino, but there are 87 different languages spoken, and 122 local dialects. English is widely spoken.

The Philippines was ceded by Spain to the United States in 1898 following the Spanish-American War. It achieved independence in 1946 after occupation by the Japanese in World War II. Since then it has had sixteen presidents; the current president is Benigno Aquino III. The Filipino culture is known for its color, as reflected in its iconic jeepneys, tricycles and bancas outrigger boats as well as its food and fiestas.

Some of the many tourist attractions and tourists destinations in the Philippines are: Bohol and its famous Chocolate hills and Spanish-era stone churches; Batangas, with 319 of the world’s coral species; Caminguin, with more volcanoes per square kilometer than any other island in the world; the Banaue Rice Terraces which owe their fame equally to man and Mother Nature; Calaguas Island, Camarines Norte, an unspoiled island that doesn’t even have a hotel, with visitors camping in tents; Boracay Island, Aklan, known for its beaches and parties; and the Puerto Princesa Underground River, recognized as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.

overall economy really isn’t; it is more socialist. There are not many restrictions imposed on the people by the government, except for the foreign exchange. People can travel as they wish, say more or less what they want, and they can run their own company and so on. It might not be easy to establish a company, but if they go through the correct process they can do so,” said the ambassador.

T

Thai-Philippine relations

Thailand and the Philippines established formal diplomatic relations in June 1949. The Philippine embassy was moved to Sukhumvit Road from another location in 1964. “We love this place – it is a very large compound with badminton and tennis courts. There are 25 people working in the embassy, both Filipino and Thai nationals,” Mrs Batoon-Garcia said.

“I would love to add more staff. We have a lot of work to do and we have to work very hard to raise awareness about the Philippines in Thailand and to increase tourism. We have quite a number of seminars and we arrange for speakers to go and speak at universities to get young people more interested in our country.

“As ambassador it is my duty to maintain and promote bilateral relations including tourism, trade and investment, cultural exchanges and basically develop relations, not just between our two governments, but also our peoples. I also attend to the needs of Filipinos in Thailand and promote their welfare. The Philippines has an embassy in every ASEAN nation.

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Diplomats

HE Mrs Batoon-Garcia|The Philippines

T

“There are about 8,900 registered Filipino residents in Thailand. When I served in Venezuela, there were only about 135 Filipinos residing there, with 700 to 1,000 seamen visiting the country daily,” the ambassador said.

The ambassador gave some interesting trade statistics.

For example, the combined trade between Thailand and the Philippines in 2012 was valued at US$7.59 billion, up from US$7.34 billion the previous year, a growth of 3.27%. According to the Thai Ministry of Commerce, the Philippines is the 12th largest destination of Thai exports. For 2012, total Thai exports to the Philippines were valued at US$4.86 billion, up from US$ 4.64 billion in 2011, a growth of 4.75%.

The Philippines is the 20th biggest importer of Thai goods. In 2012, total Thai imports from the Philippines were valued at US$2.72 billion, up from US$2.70 billion from the previous year, an increase of 0.75%.

“The Philippines’ exports to Thailand are mainly products like spare parts for cars and computers and electronic devices,” said the ambassador. “We import motor vehicles already assembled among other products. We would of course like to increase our exports to Thailand. The Philippine government is trying hard to improve its economy and one of the ways to do this is to increase production and find markets for our goods.

“A number of major Thai companies have invested in the Philippines, including Charoen Pokphand (CP) Group, Siam Cement Group and Bangkok Bank. Dusit Thani Manila

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(Makati) is one of the hotel group’s most lucrative overseas ventures. Philippine companies are also beginning to invest in Thailand, mostly in the food and beverage sector, with San Miguel beer establishing a brewery and Thai Liwayway Food Industries putting up a factory for snack foods.

“Philippine companies are beginning to look outward, in the same way Thai companies are. We are encouraging Thai companies to invest in the Philippines and increase their trade with us. With the opening of the ASEAN Economic Community [AEC], we would like Thai companies to make the Philippines a part of their supply chain. Of course, we also want to invite our Thai friends and other foreign friends to come and visit and to find out why so many people are saying ‘It is more fun in the Philippines’.

“From January to May of this year, the number of Thai tourists to the Philippines increased by 18% compared to the same period last year, from 17,519 to 20,657 people. There are a far greater number of Filipinos coming to Thailand. More than 200,000 of our nationals visited in 2012, and this has been the average for some time. Some come here just for the weekend, for shopping and for the food. Filipinos love to travel. Filipino tourists are all over the shopping malls and temples here, and I bump into them very often.”

Mrs Batoon-Garcia discussed at length the efforts her embassy is making to increase Thai tourism to the Philippines, and mentioned the exhibition on the embassy’s perimeter wall, as well as the first Philippines Tourism Fair at the CentralWorld, which was held from June 28-30.

The fair was a showcase for tourist destinations in the Philippines, Filipino snack food, dance and music, and included live music, on-stage games, food tasting and cultural presentations. During the fair the ambassador gave several interviews to Thai media.

“Of course, Thailand has beautiful beaches, mountains and other natural attractions just as the Philippines does but ours are wonderful in their own unique way and we would love for more Thais to come and visit. We want them to know there are vacation alternatives much closer to home than Paris or Rome right here in Southeast Asia. We feel that with the advent of the AEC in 2015 it is very important to have a greater exchange of peoples in the region because this will lead to greater understanding.”

“Regarding sport, we haven’t seen too much exchange in that area, but the Thai national football team played against our national team at the AFF Suzuki Cup in Bangkok in November, with Thailand winning 2:1. Football is a new game for us in a way. It is not that we haven’t played in the past, but traditionally it hasn’t been as popular as, for example, basketball.

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“As for governmental delegations, there are quite a number of regular exchanges. We don’t normally issue press releases to announce them. We have a congresswoman who is arriving at the airport today and we will meet her. She is coming here for a conference. Thailand is hosting a quite number of conferences these days,” said the ambassador.

Of course, high-level bilateral official exchanges do make the news. Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra went to the Philippines in January 2012, and the previous year, President Benigno Aquino III came here. The 5th Meeting of the Joint Commission for Bilateral Cooperation between the Philippines and Thailand was held in Manila on June 20 - 21, with Thai Deputy Prime Minister and Foreign Minister Surapong Tovichakchaikul in attendance.

“We have quite a few official exchanges, especially under the ASEAN umbrella. There are also a lot of conferences relating to the United Nations Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific (UNESCAP),” said Mrs Batoon-Garcia, who is also the Philippine Permanent Representative to this organization.

Ambassadorial activities

Mrs Batoon-Garcia said her duties often take her outside of Bangkok. “I have gone across the country, from Chiang Rai to Hat Yai. I visit places where there are many Filipino residents and tourists, like Phuket, Koh Samui, Khon Kaen and the provinces surrounding Bangkok. I also travel at the invitation of the Thai government.

“My working days are very busy and we have a lot of weekend activities as well.

We have about 11 consular outreaches to Filipino nationals in Thailand per year. The last one I went to was in Koh Samui, where there are many Filipino musicians and English teachers. Before that I was in Hat Yai. We invite our citizens to get together. We process passports, legalize consular documents, and conduct a community dialogue. There are between six to eight people from the embassy who go and I am usually one of them. It is one of the pillars of the Philippine diplomacy to serve the Filipino community.”

Mrs Batoon-Garcia is also kept busy with the hectic social diplomatic calendar. “I try to attend every national day reception, provided I am free and in town; otherwise Minister Edgar Badajos goes.”

“We also have special projects like the Thai literacy program. Twice a year in Bangkok we regularly hold community events attended by 2,000 - 2,500 Filipinos.

“We also try to educate Filipino-Thai students so they will know about their heritage. As you know there have been a number of inter-marriages between Filipinos and Thais, and there are many children of mixed national heritage here. We want them to be able to remain connected with the country of their mother or father.

“

“There are also many Thais who go to the Philippines to study, and we try to help educate them beforehand so they will know something of our culture. We hold classes for that purpose once a year and we also welcome alumnus of Filipino educational institutions so they will not forget.”

On a personal note

“What I like the most in Thailand is the food. I don’t really have much of a chance to eat the street food but I have tried many food courts in malls. There’s nothing I don’t like. I am very comfortable in Thailand, except for the heat. Bangkok is hotter than Manila,” said the ambassador.

“The traffic in Bangkok is unpredictable, and this is most probably what I don’t like the most. Mind you, Manila has a lot of traffic too and I am used to it, but here it is so unpredictable.

Mrs Batoon-Garcia said that in the less than one year she has been posted in Thailand her most memorable experience was on December 5, the birthday of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej. “When I saw how much the people love their King I was very impressed. I attended all the celebrations.”

The ambassador noted that Thais and Filipinos “look very similar. I get mistaken for a Thai very often, anywhere and everywhere, provided I do not speak. If I do that, people address me in Thai.”

When asked what she does for relaxation in Thailand, the ambassador erupted into laughter. “I haven’t had a vacation yet, and I haven’t been able to engage in many private activities – I don’t have the time. But I do like to go to various temples, to see how they differ one from the other and to look at the art. I also go to museums, especially archeological museums. I have been to museums in Nakhon Pathom, Ayutthaya and other provinces.

I also like modern art, and when I have time I look at exhibits.

“Actually I was thinking of taking a break this weekend by going to Khao Yai,” she said, laughing again. “It will be my first real vacation in Thailand.”

Mrs Batoon-Garcia said it has been a pleasure and an honor to serve as ambassador to Thailand. “The Thai people have been very hospitable to me and the Thai government has been very cooperative, so I am very happy. This makes life so much easier for me. It is very easy to make friends here.

“The Thai and Philippine governments have no major issues. We don’t have disputes that make it difficult for me. I have developed a number of friendships with Thai and Filipinos alike. In general, Filipinos are quite comfortable in Thailand.

“I have learned to appreciate my environment anywhere I am posted and to learn from and adjust to the different places and cultures. Everywhere, I have been people have been nice and kind and I have been able to adjust well. So far I have enjoyed my stay in Thailand very much and I am looking forward to one and a half more years here, and to inviting many more people to come to the Philippines to see for themselves how much fun it is to visit my country.”

With the opening of the ASEAN Economic Community [AEC], we would like Thai companies to make the Philippines a part of their supply chain.

“

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HUA HIN

Cha Am • Pranburi • And beyond...

Dusit Thani Hua Hin’s ‘Family Escapade’ package offers free entry to Santorini Park. Page 126.

News & deals

Hua Hin’s hottest promotions and deals await inside Page 124

Swiss fun

See pictures from the Swiss National Day Dinner at Hilton Page 126

Mate’s Rates Friends or family visiting Bangkok? Let them know about these deals!

Page 132

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H ua H i n

News and Deals

Michelin tastes at V Villas Hua Hin

New Water Park to open in 2014

GOOD news waterslide fans - Vana Nava Hua Hin, ‘Asia’s First Water Jungle,’ is scheduled to open in Hua Hin in quarter two of 2014. Spanning over 35 rai and being developed by Proud Real Estate, the project will be a tropical jungle themed water park, with future developments to include a 400-room InterContinental Hotels Group operated family resort and premium residences. Expect more information in a future issue of BigChilli.

CHEF Alexandre Couillon, owner of the Two Michelin Starred La Marine Restaurant in France, is coming to town on Sat Oct 5 to cook up a six-course dinner at V Villas Hua Hin. The special menu will include his famous homemade seaweed bread using the natural sea salt of Noirmoutier Island, plus a mouthwatering selection of his world-renowned seafood dishes. ☎ 02 309 3939 : v-villashuahin.com

Hyatt Open a huge success

THE fourth edition of the Hyatt Open golf tournament brought together 128 amateur golfers for a cracking two days of golf at Banyan Golf Club Hua Hin. The event, a collaboration between Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, Hyatt Regency Hua Hin and Banyan Golf Club Hua Hin, is fast becoming known as one of Thailand’s best amateur golf events. Coming out top were Category A (0-9) Winner, Johnny Walker; Category B (10-19) Winner, Graham Haslam; and Category C (20+) Winner and Hyatt Open 2013 Champion (Low Nett) Winner, Arlius Telaumbanau.

Celebrity flavour at Aleenta

RENOWNED Thai celebrity Joni Anwar took a break from entertainment last month to enjoy a stint as celebrity chef at Aleenta Hua Hin-Pranburi Resort and Spa. Having spent his early years making television and cinema appearances as one half of Thai rap duo ‘Raptor,’ Mr Anwar relished the opportunity to try his hands at something new. “Cooking is the new rock and roll,” he said. “And nobody rocks the house like James [Aleenta’s Resident Manager] and his crew.

“I had one of those moments of clarity you normally only see in the movies,” he continued.

“I am crazy in love with cooking and cuisine and I am grateful to Aleenta and James and his team for giving me this leg-up to a new phase in my career.”

During his time at the resort Joni created his own signature dish which is now available to try at The Cellar restaurant.

Accommodation for less at InterContinental Hua Hin

VALID until Sept 30, the InterContinental Hua Hin Hotel & Resort is offering exclusive rates for Thai residents and expats with valid work permits. Starting at B6,000 per night for stays Sun-Thurs, and B7,000 per night for stays Fri-Sat, the deal includes daily breakfast, butler service, a free spa treatment, and more. ☎ 032 616 999 : huahin.intercontinental.com

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H ua H i n

News and Deals

Moroccan BBQ at Villa Maroc

VILLA Maroc Resort’s Casablanca Restaurant is now offering a “Dine 4 Pay 3” deal for its Moroccan BBQ Dinner Buffet every Saturday night at B950 per person from 6.30pm-10pm.

Highlights of the selection include Moroccan Harira soup, Chicken tagine, and much more. ☎ 032 630 771 or email: rsvn@villamarocresort.com

Family escape at Dusit Thani Hua Hin

IN conjunction with Santorini Park, Dusit Thani Hua Hin is now offering a ‘Family Escapade’ package featuring accommodation starting at B4,500++ per room per night plus free entry for two adults and one child to Santorini Park (package also includes six ride tickets, free breakfast, one scoop of ice-cream with every kid’s meal, and more). ☎ 032 520 009 : dusit.com

Wine Dinner at Hilton Hua Hin

LOOKING for a venue to enjoy a wine dinner by the beach? Check out the Wine Dinner at Chay Had Restaurant where a five-course set dinner with a glass of wine is now on offer for B1,550 per person. Available every Wed from 7pm-9pm. ☎ 032 538 999 : hilton.com

Swiss celebrations at Hilton Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa organized a superb “Swiss National Day Dinner” at White Lotus restaurant last month featuring a wide range of Swiss regional specialties plus a special Jodel Handorgel and other entertainment.

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Hua Hin

Review|Villa Maroc

Review

Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi

I

This stunning boutique hotel brings a touch of North Africa to the Gulf of Thailand

INSPIRED by Morocco’s distinctive architecture, this wonderful beachside resort in Pranburi (just 30km south of Hua Hin) combines exceptional service with some of the most luxurious furnishings from the North African Kingdom, making it a unique addition to Thailand’s accommodation scene.

The boutique resort consists of six Pool Courts, four Pool Villas, one OneBedroom Villa, two Two-Bedroom Villas and two Royal Villas, all of which boast stunning sea views and have been crafted in dramatic Moroccan style with dazzling colours and award-winning attention to detail (the resort won the “Luxury Class of Thematic Idea & Culture” category of the Thailand Boutique Awards 2011).

What’s more, each guest room is designed to provide a superior accommodation experience and features

all the modern conveniences you could wish for, plus perks like complimentary Wifi, IPod Touch and docking station with Bose sound system, and free mini bar.

Guests can enjoy swimming in the resort’s two infinity swimming pools, build up a sweat in the 24-hour fitness centre, escape to a fictional world in the library, and even take part in Cooking Classes, which can be arranged for an extra charge.

If you simply want to relax during your stay, pay a visit to the Sherazade Hammam & Spa. The first authentic Hammam in the Kingdom of Thailand, it provides the very best in Arabic healing and comfort, combining the deliciously exotic with the absolutely luxurious. The treatments, which begin with a steam room cleanse followed by a traditional Hamman body scrub, are bound to leave

165/3 Moo 3 Paknampran, Pranburi, Prachuap Khirikhan 77220

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you with a tingling feeling of rejuvenation throughout your body, as well as soft, squeaky-clean skin.

When it comes to dining the resort has two great options for guests to choose from. First up is Villa Maroc’s signature restaurant, Casablanca. Set within the courtyard of a traditional Moroccan house, this atmospheric venue offers a delicious blend of European, Middle Eastern and Thai cuisine. Then there’s the Shisha Bar, a seaside chill-out lounge which reflects the traditionally rich decor of North Africa, and serves up innovative cocktails and savory Lebanese mezzehs.

Getting to and from Villa Maroc is made easy thanks to the resort’s limousine service, which is available for hire, airport transfers and private trips (a maximum of three persons per vehicle). Larger vehicles are available for families and groups.

☎ 032 630 771 Email: rsvn@villamarocresort.com :villamarocresort.com

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Where to drink

Hua Hin Where to drink Fountain Lounge

Lotus Sky Bar

■ AN ideal place to meet with friends for an afternoon or evening of relaxation and drinks, Hyatt Regency Hua Hin’s open air bar overlooks the resort’s lush tropical gardens and exudes a cozy atmosphere. As you’d expect from a 5-star hotel, the bar offers a wide selection of superior teas, fresh juices, cocktails and light snacks.

■ This vibrant roof top bar at the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa serves up a great variety of innovative and classic cocktails and boasts superb panoramic views of Hua Hin and the Gulf of Thailand. Live DJs keep the atmosphere upbeat and draw in a young, lively crowd every night of the week. The bar is open daily 6pm-11pm.

91 Hua Hin – Khao Takiap Road Tel: 032 521 234 www.huahin.regency.hyatt.com

Tel: 032 538 999 email: fb.huahin@hilton.com www.facebook.com/lotusskybar

Oceanside Beach Club Cocktails ■ Set in the beautiful Putahracsa Hua Hin resort, this relaxing beachfront restaurant offers a great selection of international food, drinks and music. You can tuck into seafood with piquant Thai sauces or devour huge slabs of meat fresh from the grill. The Jumbo Tiger prawns, Rock lobster, and New Zealand lamb chops score particularly good marks here. Other bonuses include a great sea view, and a long list of delightfully boozy cocktails. Open 5pm onwards.

22/65 Nahb Kaehat Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 531 470

Sala Wine Bar and Bistro ■ No visit to Hua Hin is complete without a trip up to Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, home of the award winning Monsoon Valley Wines. Here you can journey into the vineyards to learn more about New Latitude Wines, or simply head straight to the winery’s Bistro, which is housed in a beautiful sala and serves a wide range of Thai and international eats and, of course, Siam Winery’s finest wines. An onsite shop sells premium Thai wines, souvenirs and other quality grape-based products.

Mondo Vino

■ This stylish-yet-casual wine bar should be the top of any oenophile’s list of places to visit in Hua Hin. You’ll find a large range of wines from new and old worlds (with an emphasis on Italian brands), available by the glass or bottle at more than reasonable prices. Accompanying the premium wines is a selection of cold cuts, cheeses, fresh hams, pizza, and pasta. Monthly promotions and wine tastings mean there is always something exciting going on here – simply check the website to keep up to date.

Tel: 032 531 493 www.mondovino.co.th

Dune Sky Bar

■ Located on the rooftop of the boutique Dune Hotel, the Dune Sky Bar offers sweeping views of Hua Hin and is a great place to drop by for boozy cocktails and tasty international eats. Recently given a New York-inspired overhaul, the bar is stylishly furnished with eco-friendly furniture, including dining chairs made of recycled plastic bottles. Chilled out beats and subdued lighting make this one of the hippest relaxed hangouts in town.

Dune Hotel Hua Hin, Tel: 032 515 051-3 email: md@dunehuahin.com

Hua Hin Hills Vineyard, Tel: 081 701 8874-5, 081 701 2222, 081 701 0444 www.huahinhillsvineyard.com

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B angk ok deals Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square: Available now, the hotel’s

s ’ e t a M s rate

‘Hot Hotel Deal’ offers 15% discount off the hotel’s Hot Unrestricted Rates starting at B3,060++ per night. Online booking and payment only at novotelbkk.com

amily f r o s d Frien kok? g n a B visiting now about k Let them e deals thes

Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok: Until Oct 31, stay in a Club Deluxe Room for two nights or more and rates will start at B3,560 per night. Package includes 15% discount on regular à la carte treatments at Spa Cenvaree and 25% discount on all spa packages. Online booking only at centarahotelsresorts.com/ centaragrand/cglb/promotion.asp

W Hotel Bangkok: Valid for stays until Sept 30, the hotel’s ‘Live to the Fullest’ deal offers a room and spa combo package starting at B6,990++ per night. The deal includes breakfast for two, free Wifi, and a one-hour signature treatment for two at the newly opened Away Spa. ☎ 02 344 4000 starwoodhotels.com

GLOW Trinity Silom: Until Dec 31, the hotel’s ‘Book Early and Save’ promotion offers 15% discount when booking a room 14 days in advance (starts at B1,615 per night); and 10% discount when booking a room seven days in advance (starts at B1,710 per night). Rates are available for Superior, Deluxe, and Premier rooms. ☎ 02 231 5050 glowbyzinc.com/silom The Peninsula Bangkok: In celebration of its 15th anniversary, the hotel is offering a ‘Fifteen Facets’ package which offers 15 ‘unique Peninsula experiences’ for guests to enjoy. Valid until Oct 31 and priced B55,150+ per couple (four nights stay), the deal includes fast track welcome at Suvarnabhumi Airport, daily breakfast for two, private dinner for two at the Paribatra Aviation Lounge, dim sum cooking lesson with Peninsula’s top chefs, 6pm check out, and more. ☎ 02 626 1919 peninsula.com/bangkok

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Northgate Ratchayothin: The hotel’s ‘Stay 2 Weekend Nights & Save 20%’ promotion offers 20% discount off Studio Rooms when booked for two nights or more (between Fri-Sun). Rates start at B1,760 for two persons, and the deal is valid until Dec 31. ☎ 02 939 7949 northgatebangkok.com

The Sukosol Bangkok: Available now until Dec 20, the hotel’s ‘Family Package’ offers a two-nights deal for two adults and two children for B9,500++.

The deal includes daily breakfast, family buffet dinner, 3pm check out, free Wifi and much more. Receive a 25% discount when booking for an extended night. ☎ 02 247 0123 thesukosol.com

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COAST CO PATTAYA

Kok Chang • Wong Amat • Jomtien • Bang Saray • Sattahip • Rayong

Centara Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya is now offering 15% off its best available rates. Page 140.

News & Deals

The Eastern Seaboard’s hottest dining and hotel promotions Page 140

Auction Man

Meet the man putting Pattaya under the hammer Page 134

Social

Nigel Cornick’s 60th birthday was a blast here’s all the evidence Page 138 TheBigChilli 133

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P a t t aya Ins ight

AUCTION MAN Veteran auctioneer John Collingbourne’s weekly sales are adding fun, excitement and the possibility of some real bargains to Pattaya’s attraction

By Colin Hastings

F

OR a growing number of Pattaya’s expats, Saturdays have taken on a new and potentially profitable meaning – a few hours spent in Thailand’s only regular auction house.

They’re using their time to hunt down bargains and useful bric-a-brac that’s piled high every week in this unique emporium of everything and anything, from cars, motorbikes and all kinds of furniture to valuable antiques, paintings, ceramics, jewelry, TVs and some really quirky stuff like a model car that doubles as a barbecue, and even a German army helmet from the First World War. For every buyer, of course, there’s a seller hoping to make some extra cash from unwanted goods or items that are surplus to requirement. It’s a potent mix of opposing purposes that generates enormous excitement once the bidding gets under way exactly at 11am every Saturday morning.

It’s an extraordinary scene, familiar enough in the West but still virtually unknown in this country. That may change soon, given the auction’s rapidly expanding customer base and some serious inquiries from would-be investors who’d like to open an auction house in Bangkok.

It’s taken five years for Collingbourne Auctioneers to reach this point.

“Five years of hard work,” says John Collingbourne, the owner and main auctioneer. “I had to work, especially at the beginning – there was no other way.”

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John, a soft-spoken Welshman, had the right background, having run an auction house in his home town of Newport for 25 years before handing over the business to his son and buying a 26-bedroom hotel in Usk, South Wales.

It was during a one-week break in Thailand “from too much hard work” that he decided to sell up in Wales and settle here. Three months later he bought a hotel in Rayong beside the Dok Kai reservoir and for ten years ran a successful business.

That came to an end in 2009 when political demonstrators closed Bangkok’s main airport and bookings for his hotel suddenly stopped. Looking around for alternatives, John elected to try his luck at his original profession, found suitable premises and went about promoting his weekly auction.

Years later, Collingbourne Auctioneers is now well known amongst Pattaya’s foreign community. His warehouses on Soi Chaiyapruk 2 in

Nongprue are open daily so that sellers can drop off their no-longer-wanted goods and potential buyers can browse at their leisure the amazing array of products.

John reckons that 99% of buyers are farangs, while an astonishing 70% of those are regulars, attending every week.

“It’s a meeting place, a social event, and they’re addicted to the excitement, like smoking and drinking.”

Where do all the goods come from?

“House clearances, people leaving Thailand, selling up businesses, closing bars and restaurants. That sort of thing,” says John.

He also gets lots of people dropping by with their bits and pieces. Unlike in the past when he’d accept almost anything for sale, John is far more choosey and careful these days. A couple of Jimmy Choo leather handbags are rejected, for being too cheap. “If they were genuine, the owner would want far more for them.”

Paintings by a distinctly amateur artist are also turned down as they wouldn’t sell and would take up valuable space in the showroom.

Much of this stock comes from overseas. “We get containers full of goods from France and Denmark,” he says. “We also get supplies from a French operator in Bangkok who specializes in items from the period 1920 to 1970 – brass, copper, pots, vases, clocks, oil lamps...that sort of thing. The antiques business over there has fallen through the floor, and dealers can now get a better price here than in Europe.

“We get lots of jewelry from overseas, especially from the UK, along with silverware and ceramics. Much of it is >>

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P a t t aya Ins ight

genuine antique. We also get antique ceramics and pottery from Thailand so I’ve bought myself some books to teach myself more about these.” ohn’s auctions are clearly good business. Typically, an auction features between 550 and 600 items, and 85% are sold. His take is 15% off the seller and 10% off the buyer.

John is the consummate honest broker, advising customers on the kind of price they should be asking and putting a reserve amount on all items. Occasionally, people’s expectations are far too high.

J

“One guy wanted 850,000 baht for a car that had done 150,000 kms. I told him it was worth only 350,000 baht. That was a realistic figure. In the end he didn’t put the car in the auction.

Most of his non-car and motorbike goods go for considerably less. One of the most expensive – five marble Buddha statues from Burma – were on sale recently

136

at a reserve price of 350,000 baht.

Despite his 71 years, John is still the company’s chief auctioneer, bringing down the hammer on all the goods at the Saturday sale, which lasts from 11am to 4.30pm. It’s a tough call, but he remains sweet tempered throughout, often joking with the audience and never missing a genuine bid – even the bidder who stood half-hidden behind him on the rostrum and tugged John’s shirt to indicate his interest in staying with the bidding.

Despite the interest shown by Bangkok investors, John is taking their approaches with an open mind. “At my age, I should be easing up. If I ran an auction house in Bangkok as well as Pattaya, I’d need to be in both places, which means I’d be on the go all the time.”

While he considers his options, John is hoping to attract more people – Thais as well as foreigners, buyers and sellers – to his Pattaya auctions. Apart from the bargains to be had, a few hours spent watching the action unfold is a great alternative to the resort’s beaches and bars.

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P a t t aya

Social

Nigel hits 60!

Popular property entrepreneur Nigel Cornick celebrated his 60th party with his family, including his father and sister who flew in from the UK and his brother who travelled from Australia for the big event, along with several hundred friends from Bangkok and Pattaya. The party was held at Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya, followed by dancing at the Pier disco.

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Social

Nig hits el 60!

Special rate at Pattaya Marriott

UNTIL Sept 30, Pattaya Marriott Resort & Spa is offering its Deluxe Premier Garden View Room category at B3,000++ per night (room only).

Tel: 038 412 120 email: pattayamarriott@minornet.com

Stay in the ‘Lost World’ for less

FROM Sept 1 to Oct 31, the Lost World themed Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort Pattaya is offering 15 percent off the best available rates. Under the “2 Nights Stay” package, the rates begin at B3,485++ per night for a Deluxe Ocean Facing room, with breakfast for two included. Other room types are available under the package, including family rooms, with rates according to the room category. www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cmbr/promotion.asp

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Joey Boy Live

THAILAND’S king of rap, Joey Boy, famously known for his songs ‘Salawan’ and ‘Gaginung,’ will perform live in concert at Amari Orchid Pattaya on Oct 5 from 8pm-midnight.

Tickets are B1,000 per person and include free-flow beers, house wines, soft drinks, and whisky.

Tel: 03 841 8418 email: orchid@amari.com

The Pattaya Players: Broadway Under the Stars

THE Pattaya Players will present their premiere all-singing, elegant, cabaret-style program of musical theater standards and contemporary Broadway favourites on Sept 21 at Baan Souy Resort, Jomtien.

Tickets for the fundraising show are B1,600 per person and include the show, a Kir Royal welcome drink, a gourmet buffet dinner and a limited-edition goody bag. The event will start at 7pm. www.thelittleboxoffice.co/pattayaplayers

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