The BigChilli Thailand June 2014

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FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT IN BANGKOK

08 INSIGHT News, letters, gossip and more 14 EXPAT ENTREPRENEUR AWARDS Recent nominations in focus 22 SATHORN’S COOKING Hot new neighbourhood springs up in the heart of the city 25 GOURMET A round up of all the best restaurant deals and gourmet news in Bangkok 50 SHOWTIME ON SUKHUMVIT For some, it’s an exotic market, while others say it’s a lawless and sleazy freakshow. Maxmilian Wechsler investigates 55 EXPAT WOMEN Health, shopping, people, advice and fiction 72 WITNESS THE FITNESS Where to get in shape in Bangkok 75 WHAT’S ON Exhibitions, performance, sport, and more 82 THAILAND’S LAST EXECUTIONER New movie explores the life of the man who shot 55 people 87 SOCIAL Last month’s best events in pictures 107 DIPLOMATS The South Korean ambassador talks about his duties in Thailand 113 HUA HIN & PATTAYA Deals and news

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Journalists with personal agendas

REPORTERS and journalists are supposed to be objective in their work, not taking sides and showing no bias. Their purpose, after all, is to explain to their audience as comprehensively and accurately as possible a given situation, be it an accident, crime, coup or war. Ideally, they should report on the situation from every angle so that readers or viewers can come to their own conclusions and make their own judgments. All too often these days, reporters seem to forget these basic guidelines. Thailand’s political strife has elicited a torrent of comments via social media from foreigners based in Thailand and overseas. Among those posting their thoughts on an almost daily basis are journalists whose brief includes this country but who clearly believe they are acting not as a reporter when they comment on facebook but as a private individual since they make absolutely no secret of their loyalties with regard to the current standoff. This causes both confusion and suspicion when their articles on Thailand appear in the media. How can we trust a certain reporter’s version of events when we have seen his or her personal and sometimes extreme views in the social media? Unfortunately, some of these suspect reports are appearing in a number of influential newspapers across the world. Equally worrying is that foreign TV stations are also picking up on these same individuals to provide opinionated commentaries on Thailand.

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Instead of portraying such people as ‘reporters, journalists or correspondents,’ the foreign media should more accurately describe them as ‘commentators’ giving their personal opinion. The difference is enormous.

Why do so many men leap off Pattaya balconies?

ANOTHER foreigner has died after falling from a hotel balcony in Pattaya. The death toll of people dying this way is not widely known, but there’s no doubt it is high. Many of the victims, usually men in their 40s and 50s, are later said to have had problems in their personal lives, or problems with alcohol, drugs or money. In which case, suicide is presumed for their decision to leap off a hotel or condo. In a few cases, an accident is declared as the reason for the fall. Whatever the cause, one is bound to ask why this phenomenon seems to occur so frequently in Pattaya – and not in other beach resorts? It is a frightening trend and one that the authorities should investigate more thoroughly. Otherwise suspicions will be raised to an even higher level than they already are.

Only in Thailand

VENDORS of fake goods in Phuket recently went on the streets to protest about having to pay extortion money to Bangkok-based authorities.


Publisher Colin Hastings editorbigchilli@gmail.com MANAGiNG editor Adam Purcell adambigchilli@gmail.com editor Nina Hastings ninabigchilli@gmail.com AssistANt editor Chutinanta Boonyamarn nanbigchilli@gmail.com sAles & MArketiNG MANAGer Rojjana Rungrattwatchai sendtorose@gmail.com AccouNt executive Thana Pongsaskulchoti thanabigchilli@gmail.com AccouNtiNG MANAGer Saranya Choeyjanya fatcatbigchilli@gmail.com Art & ProductioN Arthawit Pundrikapa, Jaran Lakawat PhotoGrAPhy Mini Bike Gang, David Heischrek and WJ coNtributiNG Writers Anette Pollner, Johanna DeKoning, Judith Coulson, Maxmilian Wechsler, Paul Hewitt

Our online handle is ‘thebigchillimagazine’. Simply type this into Facebook’s search box, find the image of our magazine, then just click add.

We are now on Twitter. Find out what’s happening around town, which events to attend, parties to be seen at, and read all the juicy gossip! Follow us at ‘TheBigChilliMag’ No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from The BigChilli Co., Ltd. The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily the views of the publishers. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the publisher, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. The editor reserves the right to accept, reject or amend any submitted artwork, photographs, illustrations and manuscripts. The BigChilli welcomes unsolicited contributions but assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of such materials damaged or lost in transit.

The BigChilli Company Ltd., 1/7 5th Fl. Room 504, Siboonrueng Bldg. 2, Convent Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02 233 1774-6, 02 266 7141 Fax: 02 235 0174 e-mail: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com Strip_AD_Foodland_Feb14_M4.indd 1

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Inbox Insight

Inbox|Have your say

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HAVE YOUR SAY! Write to us at: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

MUSIC TO MY EARS

■ THANKS for writing the informative article “The murky world of music copyright in Thailand” (BigChilli Sept 2012. Read online at: http://bit. ly/1mkVudg). I own a bar in Patong Beach, Phuket, and every so often these so called ‘representatives’ of the music companies visit me and try it on. Shocking. Rod, Phuket

RADIO GA GA ■ I THOROUGHLY enjoyed Jim Davison’s account of how he launched the Early Bird Radio show here in Bangkok in the mid’60s (BigChilli April 14. Read online at: http://bit. ly/1lGHLLe). At 99-years-old and still broadcasting, he’s an inspiration to us all. I checked out your headline – “The world’s oldest DJ?” – on Google, and I’m afraid he’s just pipped to the post by Guinness World Record holder Maruja Venegas, a radio announcer in Peru, who’s slightly older than him. Both amazing achievements! Radio fan, Bangkok

SHOCKING STATISTICS ■ THE ‘Catalogue of Catastrophe’ listed in your April issue (“Man with a van - and how he makes his mark in Bangkok traffic.” Read online at: http://bit.ly/1jnT4qC) really hit home just how dangerous this increasingly popular mode of transport can be. I recently had a hairraising experience on a trip to Pattaya when our minivan driver dozed off at the wheel and steered our vehicle into the lane of oncoming traffic. Fortunately, this was in the early hours of the morning and the roads were quiet, so we managed to shout and wake him up before we met any approaching vehicles. Still, it was a terrifying experience, and one that made me think twice about ever using a minivan in the early hours again. Worried passenger, Bangkok

BANGKOK – A FINE CITY ■ I WISH I had read this article today (“Back on Bangkok’s streets – the ‘cigarette police’ who target foreign litter bugs.” BigChilli June 2013. Read online at: http://bit.ly/RaPpC3) before I was fined 2,000 baht. I had assumed the men who stopped me were the real police. I had to write my name down on a form which had ‘arrest’ written on it, which really worried me. I think this is absolutely despicable. I have been to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur where you can also be fined, but there are plenty of bins in those cities so pedestrians don’t really have any reason to drop anything on the pavement. I have yet to see a bin in Bangkok! Simon, Bangkok

READ THE BIGCHILLI FOR FREE ONLINE www.issuu.com/thebigchilli www.thebigchilli.com

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Letter of the Month

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Expat Recognising the foreign community’s contribution to the Thai economy FOR the first time, companies established in Thailand by the country’s expatriate community will be recognized for their creativity, ingenuity, excellence and proven success in The Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014. Supported by The BigChilli magazine in conjunction with BNOW, Bangkok’s networking community group, the Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014 will highlight the contribution foreign operated businesses make to Thailand’s economy. Awards will be presented in a variety of categories to recognize the amazing diversity of these enterprises. If you are an expatriate entrepreneur with a business story worth telling, or you know someone whose company deserves recognition, please let us know.

Download the submissions form at thebigchilli.com

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ting a r b e l Cebusineesns ce l excel

Entrepreneur Awards 2014

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Insight

Business|Entrepreneurs

Entrepreneur Awards 2014

Recent nominations Wishbeer

NYC-Thai BD

Jerome Le Louer, Founder

Benjamin Leiner, Founder

■ LAUNCHED in February 2013, Wishbeer is now the number one Online Craft Beer Store in Thailand. Stocking 500 different beers from over 15 countries, it also offers home delivery anywhere in Thailand. “We’re now delivering dozens of orders each month to both expats and Thais,” says founder Jerome. “We have great visibility in both communities, not just through social media [Wishbeer’s facebook page has 52,000 fans], but also through sponsoring networking events and organizing regular beer tastings.” Wishbeer currently offers beers by the bottle. Delivery is free for orders over B2,000. An additional 10% discount is offered for orders over B4,000. www.wishbeer.com

■ TIRED of cheap ice cream with fake flavours and weird colours, and expensive ice cream that was overpriced and boring, serial entrepreneur Benjamin Leiner decided to bring his favourite American ice cream – Emack and Bolio’s – to Thailand. No gimmicks, not a fad, just great quality ice cream which has been winning awards since it was established in 1975.

Fitcorp Global Daniel Remon, Founder and CEO

■ HEADED by Daniel Remon, an Australian expat with nearly 20 years’ experience as an entrepreneur and expert in the health and wellness industry, Fitcorp Global is a network of strategic health and wellness brands dedicated to developing programs, sports performance initiatives and opportunities for the private and corporate sector. Daniel currently oversees a global network of pioneering wellness brands including The Aspire Club, a leading health club and sports performance center famous for its popular rooftop fitness classes; Lifestyle Health Retreats(LHR), which are fitness, weight-loss, medical and adventure retreats combined with five-star hotels in global destinations; ASPATA, a sports academy offering training and industry certification, and Fitcorp Corporate Wellness, where Daniel works with the world’s leading companies to enhance corporate performance, energize employees and optimize productivity through the science of ergonomics. www.fitcorpasia.com

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After two years of work getting 22 flavours approved by the Thai FDA, Benjamin opened his first Emack and Bolio’s store (the brand’s first international branch) in April in Nichada Thani, and another branch soon followed at CentralWorld Bangkok (6th floor). A third branch is already confirmed, and will open in the up-and-coming Emquartier Mall in February 2015.



Insight

Business|Entrepreneurs In Search of Sanuk Dwight Turner, Founder

■ THERE aren’t many people in this world as selfless as American expat Dwight Turner. Founded in 2008, his foundation, In Search of Sanuk, directly provides food, shelter, and educational support for survivors of torture and trauma, focusing special attention on at risk women and girls. The Foundation’s hope is to provide as much ‘sanuk,’ the Thai word for fun and enjoyment, into the lives of these vulnerable communities as possible. www.insearchofsanuk.com

Siam Costumes

White Card Asia Jan Rohweder, Founder

■ IN November 2013 Jan Rohweder founded Marketing Bear Co., Ltd., the company behind the new social startup White Card Asia (WCA). It operates in three ways. First, WCA offers exclusive deals of up to 50% at places popular with expatriates and travelers in Bangkok. Second, through WCA the Marketing Bear team is able to significantly lower the price of professional marketing services (e.g. SEO, PR, Social Media Marketing, and many more) to the businesses promoted. Third, WCA is a social responsibility initiative. The White Card Asia team believes in using the resources and capabilities of its business to improve the well-being of people and the environment around them, and offers financial support to organizations actively involved in anti-trafficking policies. www.whitecardasia.com

Darryl, Sebastian, and Alex Kent-Morris, Owners

■ FOR over 30 years Siam Costumes has been manufacturing costumes in Thailand for all areas of the entertainment industry, including over 35 Hollywood motion pictures and 25 plus TV series and productions. The company has worked for many Academy Award winning costume designers and its reputation in the industry is very highly regarded. What’s more, Siam Costumes has supplied most of the world’s premier opera houses and worked on many productions for Broadway and the West End, including four productions for Andrew Lloyd Webber. Siam Costumes is run by Darryl Kent-Morris, together with his sons, Sebastian and Alex. If you are an expatriate entrepreneur with a business stor y worth telling, or you know someone whose company deser ves recognition, please let us know at thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

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Insight

Business|Branding

How to get your business in the news By Kittima Sethi

■ MEDIA today are constantly searching for stories that make them stand out from the rest. They are on the lookout for a hodgepodge of unusual, humorous, exclusive and sometimes heart-wrenching stories that strike an emotional chord with their readers. After all, they are in the business to sell news and want to attract high readership. PR specialists play an important role in providing story ideas to journalists (client and journalists). Remember that these journalists probably get over a dozen such calls each day and one way to increase your chance of having a journalist run with your story, is to understand each journalist and their publication’s style. Spend some time researching the type of stories they write and who their target audience is. The most important step is then to develop various story angles so that you increase the chance of your news appearing in various sections of the publication. The key here is to think like a reporter and imagine the news they would want to cover. Here are some tips to help you develop story angles and that could catch a journalist’s attention.

Target Audience

Understand the readership of the publication where you want to send your news to. Is it a publication for professionals? Housewives? Teenagers? How would you tailor your story to fit the readers? How will the readers benefit from you story? For instance, if you are promoting a restaurant which is located around office buildings, you may want to create stories around professional lunch or dinner menus targeted for professionals. For housewives, you may want to feature stories on some lunch menus or promotions that would capture their attention. Perhaps an interview with the chef where he or she may be offering some cooking classes or a healthy option that would be of interest to women?

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Teenagers are always looking for some great deals where they can dine with their friends. If the restaurant offers free wi-fi or are engaging this age group in some social media activity, then you could develop stories around these angles.

Scan the news

Read the news every day. Keep yourself abreast of current affairs as well as news in your industry or the industry you are trying to target. Try to find opportunities where you can send comments or expert advice to media so that they can possibly quote you to add to a story they are writing. Perhaps you have a different perspective that may be of interest to them. Ask yourself if the headline news of the paper can tie to your product or service. For example, AEC 2015 is widely discussed in media. Reflect on your product or service and see if you could develop some connection with it. How will your industry benefit or be disadvantaged? Has the government announced any new laws or regulations that will affect your industry? Journalists are always looking for newsworthy stories that link to current affairs. All these questions can help you develop story angles that you may pitch to the media and share your point of view. The side effect of this is that you will also raise your profile and be seen as an expert in your field.

Feedback from customers

Another source that can help develop your story angles is your customers. Listen to

them. Have they raised any issues with you regarding your product or service? Are they searching for something beyond what you are offering? Maybe there is a trend that you may want to share with the journalists. For example, if you are an insurance company providing health insurance, you may have noticed a trend where clients are opting for a different medical coverage. You could develop a story angle on this or some new development in your industry and share the findings with the media.

Topical stories

Make a list of domestic or international events and see if you develop a story angle. For example, August is the month of Mother’s Day and December is the month of Father’s Day. October is a month where Breast Cancer Awareness is honoured nationwide. See how you can tie your company to these events.

Sur veys and Infographics

If you have conducted a recent survey with your clients or within your industry, this is a good story to share with media. If not, think of creating one. Some media regard quantitative data as newsworthy, accurate and credible. They are fascinated with numbers, especially if they are related to a specific industry, a competitor or a local or regional trend. One way to increase your chance of having the survey published is to create an interesting and eye-catching infographic so that it is easy for readers to understand.

Community Involvement

If your company is making a difference to the community through some kind of support or improving people’s lives, share it with the media. They are always looking for human interest stories and want to balance their publication with both soft and hard news. If you have a well-respected public figure or celebrity involved in your CSR projects, develop a story around this individual and how he or she is supporting the project. Developing story ideas and pitching them to a journalist is not rocket science. Some time and effort is required for brainstorming, but you will soon find a hook that will capture a journalist’s attention. Kittima Sethi is a PR consultant at Brand Now where she is on a 24/7 look out for story angles for clients. Email: kittima@brandnow.asia



Insight

Business|Q&A

A soApy success: BAth & Bloom Khun Sudkhanung Kongamnuaysuk, co-partner of Bath & Bloom, talks about her company’s natural handmade soaps and how she and her friends made them a hit in Thailand How did Bath & Bloom begin? > Basically, our business was born from strong friendships and a mutual love of all things natural. Before setting up Bath & Bloom, my business partners and I used to gather regularly after work and we thought it would be great if we could all do something together. Two of our partners then went to a workshop where they learned to make natural handmade soap, and the results looked so good, we knew this was the avenue we wanted to explore. After that, we have now been in business for 12 years. What products do you offer?

> Bath & Bloom launched with a selection of natural handmade soaps and crystal bath salts. After being in the market for a while, we then began to expand, and today we offer a full range of body care products (shower gel, body lotion, massage oil, body scrub, essential oils etc.) and have even extended to home fragrances. What makes Bath & Bloom soaps unique? > Our Bath & Bloom natural handmade soaps are unique due to our cold-process method. This basically sees us mix all of the vegetable oils and natural herbs used to make the soap, and then wait until the mixture becomes solid. This process takes between 30-45 days to complete. Because we don’t use any heating methods in the process, our soap retains all of its natural ingredients and is just perfect for people with dry or sensitive skin. Our soap is also scent unique with delicious fragrances such as mango rice, turmeric honey, and dark chocolate.

What obstacles did you face when launching your brand?

> We had to educate consumers about the nature of our

brand and why we were slightly more expensive than massmanufactured soaps. Also, in the early days, we didn’t have any retail channels so business expansion was slow. How did you deal with the obstacles?

> By working hard and believing in our product! We put in all the time and effort we could to make sure Bath & Bloom would be a success. And your proudest achievement so far? > Every moment of the past 12 years has been amazing, so it’s impossible to pick out just one moment. However, I will say that we’re all delighted that our friendship is just as strong – if not stronger – than when we first started our brand. Any special plans for your 12th anniversar y? > To celebrate the occasion we have released our “En Toute Saison Collection,” which is available all year round and inspired by different natural scents from each month of the year. What’s next for Bath & Bloom? > We aim to develop and extend our product line and spread our unique brand of happiness everywhere we go. Keep your eyes peeled for more body care and home fragrance products, as well as new items with a natural focus. For more details about Bath & Bloom’s products and store locations see www.bathandbloom.com

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Insight

City living|Village on the rise

Sathorn’s Cooking! Two leafy lanes in the heart of Bangkok are undergoing a dramatic change – with trendy restaurants and quirky businesses creating a village atmosphere

W WHILE a host of international restaurant brands have elected to take up residence in the air-conditioned confines of Bangkok’s growing number of swanky shopping malls, Sathorn Road is witnessing a mini dining revolution of its own – and it’s rapidly transforming an entire neighbourhood. Sathorn 10 and 12, two of the city’s leafiest avenues, are now bearing all the hallmarks of an exciting new dining and entertainment zone, with a dozen or so independent restaurants already open – and many more in the planning stage. This unexpected culinary bonanza is squeezing itself into an area that’s also home to lots of quirky businesses like a shop selling expensive wooden toys, an extremely rare public library, the show-

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room of an interior designer, an art gallery set in an unusual two-storey wooden house, and an antiques shop. Here too are several inexpensive apartment blocks as well as two budget hostels, one of which advertises rooms at just 420 baht a time plus a highly seductive “stay two nights and get one night free” offer. Located quite literally in the shadow of the giant Mahanakorn project, the multi-purpose project which will become the city’s tallest building when completed next year, Sathorn 10 and 12 are a delightful contrast in architectural styles, comprising shophouses, trendy townhouses tucked down small lanes, standalone buildings, a vast and very luxurious mansion now under construction and a couple of sizeable condos.

The two roads are linked, and can be accessed by car from Silom. There is also a narrow passageway for pedestrians (and motorbikes, unfortunately) to the BTS Skytrain station of Chong Nongsi. What gives this area added appeal, especially as it sits between two of Bangkok’s busiest thoroughfares, are its many mature trees, which overhang the streets and provide welcome cover from the sun, while the surprisingly light traffic gives it the permanent feel of a relaxed Sunday afternoon. This unexpectedly congenial ambiance is attracting a diverse assortment of people, from fashionable Thais who arrive in hugely expensive limos, to western backpackers who stay in the area’s several cheap hostels.


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Among the first to recognize the roads’ business potential was Ben Sorum, whose chic Rocket bakery and restaurant on Soi 12 quickly attracted attention from friends and customers of their previous outlets. Next door, Ben has a second project, Lady Brett, an upmarket diner. A third venue is apparently on the cards. A recent newcomer to this area is Moko, a low key but very stylish outlet specializing in breakfasts, pastas and salads prepared by an Italian chef. The almost instant popularity of this restaurant has prompted French owner Martine Pailloux to acquire a second property nearby for her second outlet. On Soi 12, two sizeable townhouses are now being reconstructed into a single restaurant called Kai, the Maori word for food. New Zealand owner Craig McLean, who is also the proprietor of Snapper on Sukhumvit 11, will offer a menu covering seafood, steaks and lamb. Kai’s neighbor is Abode, a long established home décor showroom owned by Craig’s wife Paveena.

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City living|Village on the rise

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Korean cuisine is represented by Royal Sam Gae Tang, also on Soi 12, while Zalute on Soi 10 serves Italian. The area also boasts a large Chinese restaurant, two Japanese outlets, including the extremely attractive Hanakaruta Saki Bar, plus a Thai café in a delightful garden setting. Almost hidden along the passageway mentioned earlier is a no-name Thai restaurant set in a charming traditional wooden house that serves exquisite menus lunch and dinner. Just beyond this exquisitely leafy area is the newly opened Dean & Deluca upscale deli and shop. Atop an adjoining building is Ku De Ta. Soi 10 and 12 may have some way to go before the area can be called something iconic like ‘Sathorn Village,” as some restaurant owners have suggested, but the signs are most definitely there. - C.H.

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Gourmet p Wine and restaurant news

The District Grill Room & Bar takes on a New Zealand flavour this month. Page 26.

What’s Cooking A round up of this month’s best gourmet deals. Yummy! Page 26

Meet the chef Darviyan Singh Rana shares his culinary secrets Page 34

Dining out

Our favourite restaurants reviewed and listed Page 48 TheBigChilli

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Gourmet

Dining|News

What’s Cooking

Bangkok’s hottest dining deals and news

Cheese and wine deal

189 Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 126 9999

International | Until Jun 30 | : sofitel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com

A taste of New Zealand

57 Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 797 0000

Sukhumvit Rd. (Between Sois 21 & 23) ☎ 02 661 7229

Daily indulgence

International | Until Jun 22 | : marriott.com THE District Grill Room & Bar at Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit may be inspired by New York’s Meatpacking District, but this month the restaurant is taking on more of a New Zealand flavor with a special dinner menu prepared using some of the country’s finest exported produce (think dishes like Omega Mussels with New Zealand sauvignon blanc, garlic cream and focaccia bread). Prices start at B700++.

New weekday lunch at Hamilton’s

SOFITEL Bangkok Sukhumvit’s signature all-day dining venue, Voila!, puts on a great spread of European and Asian cuisines every day of the week. Visit this month and you’ll also find an enticing cheese and wine deal: A plate of three cheeses served with three glasses of wine at B700++; and six cheeses and six wines at B1,200++. The regular lunch buffet is B995; dinner buffet, B1,450.

946 Rama IV Rd. ☎ 02 200 9000

International | Available now | : indulgebangkok.com THE recently opened Indulge restaurant on Sukhumvit Road is living up to its name with three promotions which, you’ve guessed at, are all about being indulgent. First up is the ‘Good Morning Breakfast Buffet,’ served daily from 7am-11am for B250++, which includes juice and coffee, and an ‘eggs your way’ station. This is followed by the daily Lunch Special – a choice of sandwich and soup for B250++. Capping the offerings, meanwhile, are Happy Hours. Every Mon-Fri from 5pm-7pm cocktails and beers are twofor-one, and there’s also 10% off bar bite appetizers.

International | Available now | : bit.ly/1jCFdJ4 SMOKED beetroot salad with feta cheese and shaved pear; Roasted Australian lamb rump served with potatoes gratin and rosemary sauce; and Pan-fried John Dory fillet with asparagus and brocoletti in a saffron sauce – just a few of the dishes now available as part of a new set lunch menu served every Mon-Fri at Dusit Thani Bangkok’s New York-style steak house, Hamilton’s. Good value at B750++ for two-courses; B950++ for three-courses.

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Canadian lobster showcase

57 Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 541 1234

International | Until Jun 30 | : bit.ly/U2c3P2 CANADIAN lobster is the star of the show this month at Blue Sky Bar & Restaurant, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, where the chefs are using the prized crustacean to create a wide range of appetizers and mains (try the Surf & turf roasted lobster with aged beef tenderloin). Prices start at B350++.



Gourmet

Dining|News

Sunday Roast at The Huntsman

138 Sukhumvit Rd. ☎ 02 254 0404

International | Available now |  landmarkbangkok.com SUNDAYS are always best spent brunching – especially if it involves a hearty feast of fine British fare like roasted meats (beef, gammon, turkey), succulent veggies, hearty soups, and decadent deserts. The Landmark Bangkok’s British-style pub, The Huntsman, serves up exactly that every Sunday from 11.30am-4pm at just B690++ per person. Best of all – go as a group of four and you only pay for two.

Issaya Cooking Studio now open

New on the scene

Central Embassy, 1031 Ploenchit Rd. ☎ 02 672 9040-1

Smalls WHEN David Jacobson first brought Q Bar to Bangkok more than a decade ago, the city had not previously seen anything quite like it. The concept worked brilliantly. Now he’s no longer involved in Q Bar, David has set up Smalls, a neat little hangout with a great rooftop bar for those who like strong drinks, jazzy music and the power of conversation – “a dying art,” says David. Smalls is located about 150m down Soi Suan Plu, Sathorn Road.

☎ 081 819 6808

International | Open now |  issaya.com ACCLAIMED Chef Ian Kittichai of Issaya Siamese Club has teamed up with Sub-Zero & Wolf, a leading manufacturer of premium refrigeration and cooking appliances, to open the Issaya Cooking Studio. Located at the new Central Embassy complex, the 170 square meter facility gives budding chefs the opportunity to learn everything from classical and basic Thai cuisine to molecular and modern culinary techniques. Classes range from beginner to professional chef levels, and the Studio is open daily.

The Gardens

Chinese dining in style

479-481 Yaowaraj Rd. ☎ 02 221 2121

Chinese | Available this month |  shanghaimansion.com SHANGHAI Mansion, a boutique hotel in the heart of Bangkok’s Chinatown, is marking the launch of its new Red Rose Chinese Restaurant and Jazz Lounge with a tempting ‘dine-and-stay’ deal. Priced B1,500 per person, the deal includes the Titanium Dinner Menu – an all-you-can-eat selection of tasty dishes like Succulent roast duck, Pan-seared fillet of rib-eye, Grilled rack of lamb marinated with Chinese honey, and more. Two persons dining (that is, paying B3,000 in total) will receive a free night in a Deluxe room (double occupancy) with Butler service. Stay must be used on the same night as dining.

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TUCKED behind a towering condo between Sukhumvit 59 and 61, The Gardens really lives up to the description of “an oasis.” In fact, it actually merits something even grander, for this multi-layered restaurant occupies the historic premises and gardens of Dinsor Palace, a largely wooden structure that dates back more than 80 years. In its latest guise – the palace has been used as a restaurant in the past – The Gardens features four different styles of unique dining. There’s Aspen Steak House and Rendez Vous for fine dining while Gabriel’s Bistro & Grille and Napoleon Bakery & Café is designed for more casual occasions. The gardens are home to swans, peacocks and rabbits, making it a great place for al fresco dining and parties. Executive Chef K. Ice previously held the same position at Hard Rock Phuket and was a member of Chef Ian Kittichai’s Iron Chef team. The Gardens’ Chef Philipp, a young and talented German chef, has experience working for a Michelin-star restaurant in Germany, and has also worked with the Hyatt group. ☎ 02 714 2112 thegardenspalace.com



Gourmet

Pics|Events

Gourmet scrapbook Last month’s foodie functions in focus

An exquisite taste of Spain VISITING chef Pere Massana from Penedes, Spain, joined Rembrandt Hotel’s Executive Chef Jaume and Executive Sue Chef Jesus to create a special four-course wine dinner at da Vinci. Inspired by the Catalan dishes served at Chef Pere’s family restaurant Cal Pere del Maset, in the heart of Penedes, Spain, the menu was paired with fine wines from Freixenet.

Greyhound opens at Groove

GREYHOUND Café celebrated the launch of its latest branch, at Groove@ CentralWorld, by introducing a new “Turkish Delight” campaign in partnership with Citibank. Key to the campaign is a new menu packed with healthy, Turkish-inspired eats like Coban salad crab cake, Grilled Cajun chicken and pasta salad, and Lamb moussaka. What’s more, use a Citibank card to pay your bill at the restaurant and, for every B1,000 spent, you’ll receive two vouchers to enter a lucky draw featuring many prizes, including a trip to Turkey. Offer ends June 30.

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Gourmet

Pics|Events

A Decadent Affair with Rubin Singer

DELICIOUS pastries, premium teas, and a ‘seductively dangerous’ catwalk show set the scene for a great afternoon of hobnobbing when Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok, in collaboration with AAS Auto Service Co., Ltd., Citibank, N.A. and Rubin Singer, held a Buffet Afternoon Tea Charity Fashion Show in the hotel’s Lobby. The event showcased Rubin Singer’s Spring 2014 collection, which she says was inspired by the great Pharaoh Queens of ancient Egypt: Hatshepsut, Nefertiti and Cleopatra as well as the Egyptian Cobra Goddess Uatchit. Part of the proceeds of the event will be donated to the Community Children Fund Foundation in Thailand under the Royal Patronage of HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn.

Elite Table by Mekhong

THE management of Mekhong hosted an exclusive dining experience at the Blue Elephant, Sathorn Road, called “Elite Table by Mekhong: The Legendary Culinary Perfection,” where guests enjoyed a variety of recipes specially created for the event by Blue Elephant’s Chef Nooror Somany Steppé. Unique cocktail selections were also concocted by mixologists Bennie and Danny Sorum. For details about upcoming events see www. facebook.com/mekhongthailand.

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Gourmet

Chef in focus|Darviyan Singh Rana

Worst kitchen disaster? Eight years ago, during a party for my boss, when I served a whole turmeric in a lentil preparation.

SERVING UP Darviyan Singh Rana

Bawarchi's Executive Chef on his favourite ingredients & signature dishes

What is your cooking philosophy? I like to keep food simple, delicious and nutritious, and always cook with my main ingredients – love and patience. I want to give diners a traditional experience they will want to come back for. At Bawarchi, this means aromatic cuisine and colourful presentation.

Best meal you’ve ever had? At my home, cooked by my mother. She is the best cook in the world. Favourite cooking utensil? The Kadhai (a deep cooking-pot).

Your signature dishes? Bawarchi Khas Murgh (Spiced Enriched Chicken), Murgh Mussalum, Sagar Ke Moti (Pearls of the Ocean), Lobster Masala; Veg Khazana; Dahi; Kebab; Bawarchi Khas Raan (Hind Leg of Lamb).

Do you like Thai-Indian fusion food? Yes, because I see the perfect blend of two vast varieties of spices and ingredients, which unleash exotic flavors.

Your favourite restaurant in India? Desi Dhaba in my home town. Biggest culinary myth? That Indian food is hot, spicy, oily, rich, fatty, difficult and time-consuming to cook...Not true! The best Indian food is easy to prepare, not oily, and simply delicious.

Favourite ingredients? Black Cardamom, Green Cardamom, Pepper corn, Black Cumin, Cumin, Cinnamon, Clove, Fennel Seeds, Fenugreek Seeds, Mustard Seeds, Coriander Seeds, Star Anise and Bay Leaves.

About the Chef ■ AS Executive Chef of the award-winning Bawarchi Group of Restaurants, Darviyan Singh Rana is responsible for serving up some of the most authentic Indian cuisine to be found in Bangkok. He grew up in Uttarakhand, Northern India, where he was taught to blend spices by his mother (also a talented chef), and throughout his career he has always adhered to the culinary principles she instilled in him as a child – to cook with patience, love, and the best ingredients you can source. Visit Bawarchi’s flagship branch in Chidlom, and you’ll find chef Rana channeling his 24 years of cooking experience into a wide range of traditional dishes, all prepared and cooked in true gourmet style, and offering an exciting range of flavours, textures and aromas. Delicious! Read more about Bawarchi and its various locations in Bangkok at

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:bawarchiindian.com



Dining|Recipe

Recipe of the month Gogi Pyene Chae (Beef or Pork vegetable rolls)

Enjoy a Korean treat at home with this easy to follow recipe from Kim Hunna, Master Chef of Pathumwan Princess’ popular Kongju restaurant Ingredients (Serves 1) • 250g meat (beef or pork) • 30g carrot • 30g cucumber • 50g pear • 30g radish sprouts • 0.5ts salt • 30g pimiento (red, green, and yellow each) • 1ts sugar • 2ts soy sauce • 1ts vinegar • 0.5ts chopped garlic • 0.5ts white pepper • 150g glutinous flour

Method For marinade 1. In a mixing bowl, carefully mix together soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, white pepper, salt, chopped garlic and glutinous flour until all the ingredients are well combined.

For preparation 1. After trimming some fat off the meat, cut the meat into 2-3 inch wide strips. 2. Gently simmer the meat in the prepared marinade (see above) and leave it to the side. 3. While the meat is marinating, start chopping the carrot, cucumber, pear and pimiento into matchstick size pieces (can be a bit longer than the width of the meat strips).

4. In a skillet pan on a medium-high heat, carefully cook the meat until brown. 5. Take a strip of the cooked meat and carefully place the chopped/sliced vegetables and a stem or two of radish sprouts on one end, and roll the meat over the filling until closed. Repeat this step until the meat strips are all rolled up with the vegetable fillings.

Chef in focus unna

Master Chef Kim H 36

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KOREAN Master Chef Kim Hunna, best known as Madame Kim, is restaurant manager of the Pathumwan Princess Hotel’s popular Kongju Restaurant – a position she has held for over 18 years. Taking pride in offering the kind of cuisine you’d find in her native country, she keeps her food simple and uncomplicated and lets fresh ingredients shine through in every tasty bite. Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444 MBK Center, Phayathai Rd.

☎ 02 216 3700 :pprincess.com

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Gourmet


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Gourmet

Dining|BB&B

Artur Restaurant The Bangkok Beefsteak and Burgundy dining group enjoys beef cooked to perfection at Artur Kluczewski’s popular restaurant

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HIS was our fifth visit to Artur, that oasis of tranquility in Soi Tonson, and once again, we dined on fine beef. While Artur Kluczewski was unable to be present, Chef Olivier Castella deputized with aplomb. As is often the case, we started with a bubbly, on this occasion Charles Steiner NV Brut from Barossa Valley, South Australia. Bracingly dry and crisp, it was enjoyed by one and all. Moving to the table, we found an amuse bouche, Marinated shrimp in saffron and dill on an endive leaf served with Santiago Ruiz Baixas 2012 (using Albariño, a variety of white wine grape grown in Galicia, northwest Spain). Perhaps the serving was inadequate for one to properly savour the flavour of the shrimp but the wine was much appreciated by wine spokesman, Tom Whitcraft, still recovering his land legs after visiting the Top of the Gulf regatta. Moving on briskly, we started dining

proper with Duo of terrine, Armagnac foie gras and duck with pistachios, and Yuzu flavored brioche, port wine jelly. I agreed with Dani Arn, food spokesman for the day, that the Santiago Ruiz was an outstanding match for the foie gras, whereas the wine nominated to accompany this, 2010 Framingham Pinot Noir, complemented the duck. Both terrines were excellent and the servings generous.

There followed Celeriac cream with forest mushroom and truffles dumpling. The taste was delicious, but some thought perhaps the soup could have been served a little hotter. Jock Tulloch had recommended 2009 Kangarilla Road ‘Q’ Shiraz to go with this, but ultimately expressed reservations about the wine. Personally, I thought it was excellent value, though not the

full-bodied wine one associates with an archetypal Aussie shiraz. We asked for, and received, a pause in the proceedings before the main dish arrived. This was, in accordance with tradition and the wishes of the membership, Côte de bœuf served with a plethora of trimmings, and a choice of red wine or Béarnaise sauce. Carved at the table by Chef Olivier, this was once again worthy of high praise, and cooked to perfection. Potatoes (mashed and au gratin), spinach, and cauliflower were among the side dishes, and to match this food we were served Bruno Giacosa Barbera d’Alba D.O.C. 2008 (Piedmont, Italy), a very typical wine of the region which proved to be the best wine of the day, though still relatively young. To follow, we enjoyed a selection of both hard and soft French cheeses (unpasteurized cheese from Antony éleveurs de fromages) and the last of the Barbera. And to round off an excellent meal, Chef Olivier presented Thin apple tart with vanilla ice cream which proved to be deceptively easy to eat. In a departure from the list of port and other stickies that we have become familiar with, we finished with Maury Expression, a French fortified wine that found favour with many present, even with the noisy minority of diners who still expect the cheese to follow the dessert. There just remained the opportunity to thank the servers in our customary fashion and especially the Chef who, for once, had to the chance to preside alone over the proceedings. Artur Restaurant, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 658 6288 www. blistonresidence.com/facilities_artur.php

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Review|Senor Pico

Review

Señor Pico

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A Mexican restaurant with real character

A LONGSTANDING favourite with Bangkok’s expat community, Señor Pico at the Rembrandt Hotel is one of the city’s liveliest Mexican restaurants. Featuring a live Latino band every night except Tuesday, bubbly and friendly staff wearing T-shirts emblazoned with slogans like “Get Pico’d,” and an extensive menu of Mexican eats such as burritos, tacos, and Quesadillas, not to mention a drinks menu swimming with all kinds of tequilas and other boozy concoctions – like the signature Scintilly Cinnamon Sangria and La Hacienda Margarita, served in glass goblets, no less – it’s a place to let loose with friends and family and not worry that you might spill a few sauces down your shirt in the process. And speaking of sauces – at Señor Pico you’re really spoilt for choice. A wooden cabinet near the restaurant’s entrance is teeming with all kinds of tongue-tingling concoctions. Toxic Waste,

Ass in Space, Screaming Sphincter, to name just a few. But you don’t need to have a tongue of steel to enjoy the dishes here, of course; the spice levels and addition of hot sauces are all down to personal taste. You can bet your sombrero, though, that each dish that comes from the kitchen will be bursting with wholesome Mexican flavours – a much-loved medley of Mesoamerican and European influences, underscored by beans, corn, peppers, fresh salads, and grilled meats and seafood. Highlights of the restaurant’s varied menu, all lovingly prepared by the hotel’s new executive sous chef, Jesus Nino from Barcelona, Spain, include Grilled chicken tacos (B350++), Seared tuna rubbed with Mexican spices served with avocado and mango chutney (B595++), Tiger prawns espetadas, carved tableside (B995++), Shredded chicken quesadillas (B350++), and Braised US Certified Black Angus

Señor Pico, Rembrandt Hotel Bangkok, 19 Sukhumvit Soi 18, Señor Pico opens daily 5pm-1am

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Sirloin fajitas (B650++). Visit on a Tuesday evening and you can enjoy all-you-can-drink margaritas at B499; all-you-can-eat Tacos at B499; or combine both promotions for just B799. Another great deal is served up on a Saturday, when the restaurant puts on a sumptuous brunch from 12pm-3pm at just B599++ per person (half price for kids under 12). Señor Pico boasts one of the most extensive Tequila selections in town – over 60 options ranging in price from B180-B1,000 – and has an extensive wine list, too, starting at just B890 per bottle. The usual local beers are available for B160, but we suggest you team your eats with one of the newly stocked American craft beers, or, better yet, the Original C Cave Creek Chilli Beer – which, true to its name, has a pepper floating in it, giving the lager a refreshingly spicy taste.

☎ 02 261 7100 :facebook.com/senorpicobkk



Gourmet

Review|El Gaucho

Review

El Gaucho

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Sukhumvit Steakhouse has the winning formula

OPENED just two years ago, El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse has proved a roaring success with Bangkok’s growing legions of meat-lovers. It’s also left many competitors wondering how they can emulate its winning formula. Owned and managed by the indefatigable Dany Himi – that is, when he’s in Bangkok and not overseeing his other same-named restaurants in Vietnam – El Gaucho really has got it right on all fronts. Take the location, on the corner of Sukhumvit 19, a few steps from the BTS Asoke station and next to Terminal 21. Dany, unlike several other suitors, spotted its enormous potential when the premises became available and today El Gaucho occupies one of the best sites in Bangkok, visible from every corner of this busy junction. Then there’s the restaurant’s extraordinary buzz, generated by a combination of clever interior design, friendly lighting, Latino music, attentive and efficient staff, and great acoustics that reflect the excitement of an allaction restaurant without impinging on conversation. Little wonder the general manager of a nearby hotel said after his

first visit to El Gaucho he’d tell his staff to go and learn a few useful lessons from this restaurant. But more than anything, of course, it is El Gaucho’s cuisine that continues to attract packed houses. Despite describing itself as an Argentinian steak restaurant, El Gaucho sources its meat from Australia and the US, which is displayed in all its meaty glory, cleaned and trimmed, in a refrigerated cabinet on the ground floor. Choose your preferred cut and the chef will throw it onto the piping hot barbie just behind. If you’d prefer to take the meat home and cook it yourself, then the chef will wrap it up for you. To its credit, El Gaucho prices its famed wagyu prime plus exactly the same as when the restaurant first opened – B2,990 baht for 200g. Other meats, including the rib eye, prime filet and New York striploin are similarly little changed. El Gaucho is a breathtakingly efficient restaurant, and this is reflected in the menu; everything you could possibly want in a steakhouse has been covered. Aside from the mighty steaks, there’s a choice of lamb chops and lamb shank

El Gaucho. Sukhumvit Soi 19, Sukhumvit Rd

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for B1,190 and B990 respectively, along with pork, chicken, chorizo and salchicha. Alternatively, sample the lot on a skewer or in a mixed grill. You might even want to try a burger made from 100% Wagyu beef. Seafood choices include scampi, snow fish, salmon and Pacific dory. There’s also a good selection of pastas, plus some vegetarian dishes. The restaurant has a good-sized cellar of wines from Europe and South America starting at B1,450 for a bottle, with selected wines by the glass for B290. Starters include Lobster and crab meat soup, Wild mushroom Empanada and home-made Chorizo. Also, try the Beef Limone – grilled thin slices of New York striploin steak; Rib Eye with lemon and olive at only B590, or Beef steak Tartar at B790. The restaurant has three seating options: The outdoor terrace, the ground floor bar for eating and drinking, and the main upstairs dining area, which overlooks Sukhumvit. There’s also a nicely appointed private room for about 16. The restaurant opens from 11am and stays open late.

☎ 02 255 2864-l : reservation.suk@elgaucho.asia


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Gourmet

Review|Rice & Chilli

Review

Rice & Chilli

‘Gourmet Inspiration’ menu offers unlimited servings of delicious Thai food for just B1,200 per person

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SOME dining experiences are just perfect for treating visitors from out of town to. Case in point: the new ‘Thai Gourmet Inspiration’ menu offered at Mode Sathorn Hotel’s chic Thai restaurant, Rice & Chilli. Available every Friday from 6.30pm11pm, this ‘all-you-can-eat menu’ takes diners on a gastronomic journey through Thai cuisine and all its vibrant flavours – sour, salty, spicy, sweet – and offers a myriad of appetizers, hot soups, curry, main dishes and desserts, from which guests can order as many as they like. The brainchild of Khun Kla Kitchakarn, Managing Director of Siam@ Siam, which manages Mode Sathorn, the new menu has been specially designed to give visitors an interactive dining experience to remember. “We want diners to be able to see the cooking as it happens, to see the chefs preparing their dishes, and to see the

bartenders mixing cocktails,” says Khun Kla. “So, aside from our usual dining tables, we also offer counter-top seating in front of the kitchen where diners not only witness their food going from pot to plate, but also receive celebrity-style treatment too.” Dining at the restaurant’s countertop does indeed have a touch of the VIP experience about it; mixologists blend unique cocktails inspired by Thai flavours right in front of you; the brigade of chefs acknowledge your presence and genuinely want to know you’re enjoying the experience; and the attentive service staff ensure you’re never without water (always needed after a few spicy bites). You can, of course, opt to sit at one of the restaurant’s usual dining tables (arranged in a single row before a floorto-ceiling glass window offering striking views of Sathorn and the adjacent Surasak BTS station), but you’d be missing a treat.

Dishes like Fresh Tasmanian salmon in premium fish sauce with a little touch of chilli; Stir-fried New Zealand mussels with chopped garlic, coriander root and chilli powder; and Deep-fried marinated chicken wing in turmeric, Thai garlic, sea rock salt and black peppercorn, impress with their rich flavours and elegant presentation. Ditto the Spicy prawn soup and Coconut chicken soup, which come served at the same time in espresso cups and go remarkably well together. With so many delicious options on offer, it’s difficult to know where to start. Just make sure you save room for the signature Massaman Nong Gae, though. Featuring premium Australian lamb shank in a rich peanut gravy with pearl onion, cherry tomatoes and balls of sweet potato, it’s simply delicious. If only all meals could be as great value as this!

Rice & Chilli, Mode Sathorn Hotel. Open Tues-Sat (Closed Sun-Mon). Lunch from 11.30am-2pm; Dinner from 6.30pm-11pm

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☎ 02 623 4555 ext. 1091 :modesathorn.com


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Gourmet

Review|Liu Chinese Restaurant

Review

Liu

Enjoy Shanghainese, Sichuan and Cantonese dishes presented with gourmet flair at Conrad Bangkok’s neo-classical Chinese restaurant

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AUTHENTIC Chinese dining experiences always have a touch of theatre about them – all dimmed lights, hushed atmospheres, and Lazy Susans, loaded with food, spinning on cue under a spotlight. Like live performances, though, not every meal is a critical success. Just as extravagant action can’t mask a weak story, elegant surroundings can’t make up for slipshod cooking. It’s a real treat, then, that the Conrad Bangkok’s signature Chinese restaurant, Liu, succeeds in putting on a star performance both in terms of looks and flavour, while capping the whole experience with splendid service, too. An immediate hit with Bangkok’s Chinese community when it opened in 2002, Liu has remained a firm fan favourite thanks to its all-you-can-eat dim sum lunches (available daily for just B820 per person, including a selection of main dishes and a mango pudding) and gourmet renditions

of Shanghainese, Sichuan and Cantonese dishes, all presented with contemporary flair. Despite the popularity, though, Liu doesn’t rest on its laurels. Just last month, Conrad Bangkok’s management boosted the restaurant’s culinary pedigree by bringing in a new Executive Chinese Chef, Jacky Chan, who brings with him over 30 years’ experience cooking refined Chinese cuisine (including stints in renowned Hong Kong establishments such as Nikko Hong Kong and the American Club), and who goes about his work adhering to a mouth-watering cooking philosophy – to extract the maximum flavour from each ingredient he uses. This philosophy is immediately evident in a la carte dishes such as Dong Po Pork – stewed pork belly with black soy sauce served with Chinese buns (B320) – Crispy filo pastry king prawns with wasabi dressing (B240), and

Liu is open daily for lunch and dinner. Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road

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Deep fried snow fish (100g at B370), which, while all prepared using simple ingredients, provide the kind of depth of flavours and textures which can only come from considerate cooking at the hands of an expert. And this applies to all of the seafood, chicken, duck, beef, and lamb specialties offered on Liu’s extensive menu. The dim sum lunch selection (over 30 to choose from) also impresses with its quality. Shrimp dumplings, Pan fried green tea dumplings, Steamed Garoupa fish – anything that’s ordered – all come to the table freshly steamed, braised or fried (aka piping hot) in bite-size servings packed with flavour, and they’re so irresistible you’re likely to push your own appetite to the limit. Not full enough? Return for dinner and you can also opt for an eight-course Sichuan set dinner menu, priced only B1,500 per person.

☎ 02 690 9255:conradhotels.com/bangkok



Gourmet

Where to eat

Recommended restaurants and bars International cuisine

Leapfrog Restaurant and Bar

Located on the eighth floor of Galleria 10 Hotel Bangkok, Leapfrog jumps to attention by offering a chic dining atmosphere, stunning views of Chuwit Park, and also great value for money. There are plenty of standalone dishes to choose from, but it’s the restaurant’s three-course dinner menu which attracts most diners – a gourmet steal at B990 per person. Signature dishes include Slow-cooked lamb shank with pommes croquettes, and Sexy cheese cake. Galleria 10 Hotel Bangkok, Soi 10 Sukhumvit Road (BTS Asoke) 02 615 0999  leapfrogbkk.com

Mulligans Irish Bar

An insomniac’s dream come true, this popular Irish bar on Khao San Road serves drinks and eats 24 hours a day, seven days a week, to a well mixed crowd of tourists, expats and locals who not just come for

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AmBar

Hanrahans

Four Points By Sheraton Bangkok – Sukhumvit 15. Open daily 6.30pm10.30pm. 02 309 3000  fourpoint.com/bangkoksukhumvit15  facebook.com/ambar

Sukhumvit Soi 4, near Nana Plaza (BTS Nana or Ploenchit) 02 255 0644-5  hanrahansbangkok.com

Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok’s rooftop poolside hangout is always a great place to visit for a good value steak – top grade Aussie and American beef is just B650 per person.You can also wrap your mouth around grilled lamb and chicken, as well as a good selection of sandwiches, pizza and fusion dishes. Sides include Jacket potatoes, French fries and Creamed spinach, and there’s also a small selection of appetizers and desserts.

the after-hours parties, but also for big portions of traditional pub grub like Beef and Guinness Puff Pie (B240+), Fish & Chips (B330+), and Irish Stew (B340+). Daily Happy hours are held twice each day – once at 3pm-8pm when selected beer and wines are only B99 per pint/glass; and again from 2am-4am when selected draught beers are B150 and also buy-one-get-one-free.

265 Khao San Road 02 629 4477  mulligansthailand.com

This Irish pub and restaurant is located in the middle of all the nightlife action on Soi Nana. It’s an ambitious venue with 3 floors, pool tables, sports TVs, free wireless Internet for customers, and a kitchen that churns out traditional pub favourites like Bangers and Mash and Shepherd’s Pie. There is a typical 50% off happy hour, plus loads of other specials. Don’t worry about the pub’s location; Hanrahans is all about good, clean fun and the atmosphere makes it a good choice for couples.

The Dubliner

As Sukhumvit’s oldest Irish Pub, The Dubliner is to many a home away from home. It has an authentic feel with a wood finish covering the three floors, all tinged with rustic Gaelic memorabilia, making this Pub

Blue Sky

Located on the 24th floor of the Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok, Blue Sky offers spectacular views, innovative cocktails, and a wide range of Mediterranean and Asian delights created by Chef Jean-Claude Pichon and his culinary team. Highlights include Yellow tail tartar with apple and lemon pepper caviar; Alaskan king crab and lobster ravioli in Riesling sauce; Egg net wrap with marinated white shrimp and crispy soft crab shell, tamarind sauce, Thai pesto; and Aged beef and rock lobster tail “surf & turf style.” Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok 02 541 1234 ext. 4262, 4272  centarahotelsresorts.com

“Pure Irish.” The Dubliner isn’t just a pub that serves food but is a fully fledged restaurant whose kitchen staff adapted their culinary skills to preparing and presenting traditional Irish favorites as well as dishes with an international flavour along with a range of Thai dishes. The pub’s atmosphere lends itself to a casual approach to dining but the menu range is far from casual.

440 Sukhumvit Rd, 02 204 1841-2  dublinerbangkok.com


Italian cuisine

International cuisine Cicchetti

The Coffee Club

Since opening its flagship branch in Thailand at Major Ekkamai in early 2013, The Coffee Club has gained a reputation for serving up some of the tastiest all-day breakfasts to be found in Bangkok. Omelettes, pancakes, breakfast wraps, the classic big breakfast, and The Coffee Club’s signature Eggs Benedict are just a few of the mouthwatering options on offer. Then there’s The Coffee Club’s regular à la carte menu, which offers dishes such as Grilled chicken and avocado (B180), Caesar salad (B180), and Classic fish and chips (B215). As for drinks – its UTZ certified coffee is made by trained baristas using sustainable beans sourced from the coffee growing regions of South America, Asia and Africa, so a superior cup of coffee is guaranteed.

BeerVault

If you’re bored of sipping all the usual local and imported beers served at most Bangkok bars take yourself along to Beer Vault at Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15, and you’ll be able to quench your yeasty cravings with a great selection of over 100 imported bottled beers served straight from the vault – a.k.a, the bar’s nice cold fridge.You can then pair your beer selection with a choice of great-value pub signatures such as a Foot long hot dog (B150), Ploughman’s platter (sausages, salami, cheese and baguette. B200), Braised lamb shank burger (B250), and Salmon burger (B250). BeerVault, Four Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15 02 309 3000  beervaultbangkok.com

Open daily. For more info about its branches see  facebook.com/ thecoffeeclubthailand

The Queen Victoria Pub

This traditional British tavern’s spanking-new, spit-andpolish aura lends itself to a discovery of unspoiled coziness. Slump into leather loungers, lean back, and tuck into a culinary lineup that would benefit a gourmet Steakhouse: rib-eye, sirloin, T-bone steaks, spare ribs,

lamb chops. Also pick from a great range of seafood specials and perennial Thai favorites. The interior is comfortable and excellent for watching live sports; an al fresco terrace is the venue for regular barbecue nights. More prudish patrons shouldn’t worry about the pub’s location on Soi 23 (near Soi Cowboy). The Queen Victoria boasts a squeaky-clean image of family-friendly fun. Sukhumvit Soi 23, opposite Soi Cowboy, (BTS Asoke) 02 661 7417

Welcome new take on Italian cuisine in Bangkok If you are one of those who believe there’s a certain predictability about Italian restaurants in Bangkok, with their increasingly dull line up of pasta, pizza, fish and meat, it’s time to drop by Cicchetti at the Groove, the recently opened food mall at CentralWorld. This chic newcomer has raised the bar by taking a fresh look at Italian cuisine and offering an Italian version of the popular Spanish-style tapas format – small plates of goodies that cover a much wider range of culinary options. In fact, the name Cicchetti (pronounced chi-ket-tee) is derived from the Italian word meaning ‘small plates.’ So the basic idea is gather together a group of friends and share Thai-style the restaurant’s dishes.

The background to Cicchetti is somewhat surprising since its origins are not in Italy, but in the English city of Birmingham, where Mr Carlo Distefano opened the first San Carlo restaurant in 1992. Today, the company operates restaurants under several brand names in Bristol, Leicester, Manchester, Liverpool, Leeds and London. Cicchetti Bangkok is the first branch outside the UK, though the San Carlo group also owns the highly regarded Signor Sassi at the Ananatra Bangkok, Sathorn. Man-about-town Filippo Pagani is the chef at both restaurants, so diners can expect some culinary similarities. The moods, décor and pricing are very different, though, with Cicchetti having the much lighter and busier ambiance. The extensive menu is ideal for all-day dining with friends who can choose their particular favourites or tuck into others’ selections. The wine list is similarly comprehensive, with some really excellent Italian varieties. For this review, Chef Filippo suggested the following: • Black Truffle Risotto, Truffle Risotto with Black ink cuttlefish & fresh black Truffle on the top (B590) • Spaghetti Lobster with fresh Canadian Lobster (B690) • Codfish with N’duja spicy sausage from Calabria creamy sauce (B360) • Bracciola di Maiale, Black pig pork from Calabria served with fennel (B490) • Agnello al Fieno, lamb rack marinated in hay and white wine served with Madera sauce (B540) • Ravioli Spinach and Ricotta, with Sicilian pachino tomatoes and rocket (B150) • Beef Tartar, with the Fasona meat, the full blood from Piemonte & Black Truffle (B460) Cicchetti Bangkok, The Groove@CentralWorld, Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 251 6551

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Feature

Insight|Investigation

Showtime On

Sukhumvit For some, it’s an exotic and endlessly fascinating market, while others says it’s a lawless and sleazy freak show. Whichever way you look at it, sections of lower Sukhumvit are an amazing melting pot of different nationalities, cultures and entertainment possibilities – as well as all kinds of questionable business activities, reports Maxmilian Wechsler

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IN the congested 1.4-kilometer stretch of lower Sukhumvit Road between Soi 1 and Soi 23, you will come across the most bizarre collection of dubious characters and businesses in Thailand. Most of the vendors, shops, bars and restaurants are completely legitimate and serve as a unique attraction for locals and tourists alike. But here you will also find drug dealers and prostitutes soliciting on the footpaths; street vendors selling counterfeit watches, clothing, handbags and cosmetics; pirated DVDs, including porn; sex toys and a variety of erectile dysfunction drugs; weapons like knuckle dusters and electric stun guns along with realistic replicas of handguns. You will also encounter beggars, some from other countries, stationed near BTS stops with rented children to pull at the

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heartstrings of passing tourists, as well as severely handicapped people hoping for a handout. Then there are innumerable mobile bars that somehow get around the law and sell alcohol until dawn. And a gambling den in Soi 11 where motorcycle taxis play games of chance. And if you’re unlucky enough, you may also see large rats crawling out of drains and scampering along the edges of footpaths. Showtime for this daily theatre starts at 9am near Soi 5 with the arrival of local streetwalkers in search of an early morning trick. The vendors turn up around11am and leave before midnight to vacate the footpath for the second shift – the illegal mobile bars. This is a daily routine, apart from every Monday when workers from the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration (BMA) cleans the area.


Dangerous assignment

For several weeks, day and night, a BigChilli team monitored the area, speaking to vendors, bar owners and staff as well as foreign tourists and local residents. Almost without exception those interviewed described the situation on this stretch of road and side streets such as Soi 3, 4 and 11 as “an embarrassment” to Thailand. We witnessed numerous blatant violations of regulations, including the illegal parking of tuk-tuks, taxis, motorcycles, vending machines and other vehicles. These block one lane at a time when Sukhumvit is at its most congested. Traffic policemen who should clear the road seem more interested in stopping motorists who run red lights at the Soi 3 junction. Almost every day, uniformed BMA officers set up a mobile command center near the entrance to Soi 5 consisting of a large yellow umbrella with a table and two chairs and a sign in English, obviously directed at foreigners, warning against committing offences such as disposing of cigarette butts, littering, spitting and even cutting trees. Penalties can be as much as 2,000 baht. And yet these same officials ignored local prostitutes who hang around beside the temporary booths in order to approach foreigners. Sometimes the ladies chatted with the officers and sat on the seats at the command centre. All vendors we approached said they don’t approve of what the BMA officers are doing there. If these same officers extended their shift and patrolled the area after 4pm they might be surprised to see not only piles of discarded cigarette butts, but also lots of other garbage left close to their booth. Those responsible for this rubbish are mostly the vendors, who, to be fair, may be unaware their actions are illegal because the warning signs are written only in English and are removed when the BMA officers finish their shift. If the rules were applied equally, the vendors’ messy habits would generate more income for the BMA. Right now, only the rats benefit from the piles of garbage. People working on mobile bars and vendors selling supposedly prohibited items such as pirated DVDs, weapons and sex aids do not like to be photographed and can become very aggressive. In one incident, two men from a mobile bar in Soi 21 assaulted one of our female researchers while she was taking photos with a mobile phone. Luckily she wasn’t injured and the mobile wasn’t damage.

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Makeshift bars operate openly on the sidewalk.

Converted campervans do a roaring trade after dark.

At night, as a precaution, we used mobile phones instead of proper cameras, which affected the quality of some photos. This stretch of Sukhumvit is popular with people from Africa. None liked having their photo taken by our team. But after hiding from the camera for a minute or two, they quickly returned to their normal routine. In contrast, people of Middle Eastern appearance seemed unconcerned by our photo-taking.

Bars at night

Mobile bars proliferate. In one night, from Soi 3 to Soi 23, we counted on both sides of the road some 60 such businesses, with about 235 tables and over 1,200 chairs and stools. In addition, we counted 37 bars operating from converted vehicles, mainly old vans, parked on the road inside Sois 7, 11 and 21, with 223 tables and over 1,000 chairs placed on the road or footpath. This stretch of Sukhumvit must also take the prize for the most sellers of sex aids and ED drugs in Bangkok. Some vendors advertised but did not display prescription medicines like Xiemed and Valium. We counted 43 such stalls of different sizes.

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Insight|Investigation

Another 19 offered various weapons and replicas of firearms. A further nine stalls were selling pirated DVDs, with six displaying covers with indecent pictures. The number of mobile bars and stalls fluctuated from day to day, but not by much. Transgender women – known as Kathoeys in Thai – are very much in evidence here, though it is sometimes difficult to distinguish them from bornfemales. Many just walk around or sit in bars waiting to pick up customers. Prostitutes and transgender women who work this area come from at least 18 different countries, including African, Asian and Middle Eastern nations and the former states of the Soviet Union.

Anything goes

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In the past few years, this section of Sukhumvit has been transformed from a shopping and entertainment area into a zone where virtually anything goes, with the full knowledge of certain Thai authorities, according to a long-time vendor stationed near Soi 5. As he talked to us, the man kept looking over his shoulder to make sure nobody else could hear the conversation. “I have been selling here for almost 18 years but I have never seen such corruption and disregard for the law as now,” he said. “There’s lots of money to be made, especially with some of the mobile bars. “These days, many of the vendors are from Myanmar. Some can speak both Thai and fluent English, which gives them an advantage over Thai people.” Another vendor near Soi 13 claimed that some foreigners are involved in selling drugs. To do so, the man continued, these dealers must have good ‘connections’ in Bangkok. He noted the sellers now dress better than in the past and use the latest mobile phones.

Setting up shop: stalls regularly block the road and sidewalks.

A narrow one-way lane off Soi 3 known as ‘Soi Africa’ has a number of hotels and clubs frequented by visitors from African nations. “It’s obvious some of the sellers make a lot of money. Now they wear expensive clothes and accessories whereas before the same men were walking around in old jeans and sandals. They are always talking into mobile phones. “If they get arrested, other dealers soon replace them. “Really, I don’t like what’s going on around here, but I must keep quiet, otherwise I could lose my space on the footpath,” he continued. “The available space is disappearing anyway because the new hotels, shops and restaurants don’t allow us to sell in front when they open. And with all the construction going on or scheduled to start soon in the area, we might lose even more space. Some vendors have moved to the other side of Sukhumvit where fewer foreigners walk.” Another vendor who has been on Sukhumvit more than 19 years and runs several stalls claims that certain state authorities “control” the commercial enterprises on the street, both legal and illegal. He gave some details, such as how much and to whom street vendors, illegal mobile bars and other prohibited businesses must pay.

Post-coup postscript THE imposition of the curfew hasn’t greatly affected the vendors, including those selling illegal items. They open their stalls earlier to make up the lost hours. Prostitutes who normally assemble on the footpath near Soi 5 early in the morning are out in record numbers in the evening, and this applies to other parts of Sukhumvit Road. Foreign drug dealers also seem to be trading as normal. The big losers are the mobile bars, who will no doubt be out in full force after the curfew is lifted, probably with redecorated rigs. If the reforms promised by the new regime eventually reach lower Sukhumvit, the authorities may take a tougher line on lawbreakers, so that honest, hardworking business people can make a living here.

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Streetwalkers of many nationalities ply their trade on Sukhumvit.


Typical Sukhumvit scenes, including numerous sex aids for sale.

Paying to avoid trouble

“We pay to various ‘entities’ so they will overlook violations like keeping metal vending carts on the road or selling alcohol all night,” the vendor told us. He also claimed that these same organizations have an agreement on whom controls what in order to avoid conflicts and prevent the vendors from interfering in another’s business or territory. Another practice reportedly taking place on lower Sukhumvit is that “owners” of a space on the footpath rented from the authorities sometimes sub-let them to another person. While talking to one female vendor selling clothes near Soi 3, we asked if the authorities were looking after her. She replied with a serious expression: “No, we are looking after them.” She and other vendors also alleged that a small group of Africans sell drugs, get drunk every night and often fight each other, mainly around Soi Africa. We were shown to a bar near Soi 5 which displays a large sign in English saying that Africans won’t be served due to “unacceptable behavior!”

“Stalls are forbidden from setting up on a Monday,” one seller told us.

Tax-free sidewalk bars

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When vendors begin to vacate their spaces early or mid-evening, they are almost immediately replaced by dozens of small mobile bars. The background to this phenomenon was explained by the owner of a permanent bar. “They first appeared on Sukhumvit after a change in closing hours laws by then Interior Minister Purachai Piumsombun in 2001. “This meant legitimate bars had to close earlier, so owners lost a lot of money. Foreign visitors began to look elsewhere for places to drink and to meet girls. This led directly to the mobile bars that now occupy the footpaths.”

The law stipulates that entertainment venues must stop selling alcohol at 1am, though some continue until much later, presumably through “arrangements” with the authorities. Nonetheless, legitimate businesses are still required to comply with other state regulations that the mobile bars ignore. “We need to have various licenses, face regular checks by the police, pay taxes, pay regular salaries and send employees for medical check-ups. We also don’t allow under-age people,” continued the bar owner. “We conduct ourselves according to the laws, but we’re losing money because unlicensed bars on the streets don’t pay taxes or salaries to employees. They only pay bribes to stay open and sell alcohol until early morning. This is their only overhead. It’s not fair to lawabiding bar and restaurant owners. “These mobile bars are taking our business by selling alcohol all night and also undercut our prices. They can sell drinks cheaper because their expenses are much less,” the man said. He claimed that the mobile bar business is “well organized,” with the equipment, tables and chairs being stored in many places along Sukhumvit during the daytime. “The bars are decorated with colourful lights and have speakers blaring music. Bottles of alcohol are openly displayed. They don’t have toilets, so some customers will relieve themselves on the street or go into a local hotel.” In fact, a public toilet recently opened in a building near Soi 5. Costing five baht a visit, it apparently closes at 1 am.

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Drugs busts on the so-called ‘Soi Africa’ are common.

A waiter who has worked at a well-known nightspot almost since its opening 42 years ago said: “Before 2001, we could be open and sell alcohol until 6am. Everything was fine. We were making money and customers were happy. But then the government started to impose regulations and orders. We had to close for a short time at midnight, so everyone moved to the street and that’s when the problems started.” The man added that his establishment closes at 2am. The police go there regularly to check that it stops serving at that time. According to a transgender woman who serves drinks at a mobile bar near Soi 7, she and some of the other girls don’t receive salaries but get 50% of the price of drinks. She said this is her main source of income, though she admits she might also accept money to accompany a customer to his hotel. Opening hours of mobile bars seem to be getting earlier. One sets up outside the Nana post office around 9pm, while others in Soi 11 start around 9.30pm. Most of these on the main road get going after 11pm. The bars enjoy a brisk business with customers often drinking till 3am or later. The sight of so many foreigners of many different nationalities chatting to the freelance prostitutes is just part of Sukhumvit’s outlandish character.

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Prostitutes on visas

The area is also known for its foreign prostitutes. These start their shift late at night, joining local women in the search for customers at coffee shops, restaurants, discos and other entertainment venues. Some of the taxi drivers who park in Soi 3 have agreements with the staff of several Bangkok hotels who call when a guest wants a girl. The driver and the hotel staff receive at least 500 baht each in commission. We witnessed how it works in practice: After receiving a call, the driver entered the hotel coffee shop and a short time later walked out with two foreigners and drove them to the customer. The women returned in another taxi two hours later and entered the coffee shop to wait for another assignment. It is believed that some of these foreign prostitutes have been living in Thailand for years. To extend or get a new tourist visa is allegedly not a problem. A fee of around 6,000 baht is

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paid to certain tour agencies which organize “visa runs” to neighboring countries. If it involves just a U-turn at a border checkpoint, the cost is 2,000 baht. One foreign woman who has been using this service for years said that she travels in a minivan to a neighboring country where they give their passports to a Thai man upon arrival at a hotel. The man gives the passport back the next day with a new stamp. Such “visa runs” could end with the new regulation concerning re-entries to Thailand announced by the Thai Immigration Bureau on May 8.

Tourists shocked

Foreigners holidaying in Thailand with their families are invariably shocked when walking along lower Sukhumvit Road, especially after dark. Some cover their children’s faces while passing DVD stalls where porn is on display. Such products were hidden in the past. The number of stalls displaying sex aids has increased during past years “Many of the foreign men who buy sex aids are from the Middle East, where these items are banned,” said one vendor from Myanmar. Several foreign diplomats who live or work in this area told The BigChilli they had been approached by African men with the offer of illicit drugs. They expressed surprise that this sort of activity was going on relatively out in the open. In contrast, Thais who live and work in the area are almost never approached about drugs or sex. It is clear that considerable “inside” work and corruption takes place for this daily drama to unfold on Sukhumvit. Should we be surprised? Probably not, for as Privy Counselor His Excellency Kasem Watthanachai is reported as saying during a seminar organized by the Office of Ombudsman in Bangkok on April 26, corruption is a serious problem that needs to be addressed urgently. Poll figures showing that about 80% of Thais admitted they have been involved in corruption were alarming, added Mr Kasem. He also said the situation in Thailand over the past decade is unprecedented, describing it as a “decade of darkness” resulting from politics revolving around populist policies which have led people to crave and become addicted to materialism and consumerism.


Expat WOMEN p Put your feet up and indulge

Jonathan Saunders for Jaspal offers cool looks for the summer season. Page 60.

BWWG

Enjoy the latest slice of fiction from the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group Page 56

Shopping

Hot new products and stores demanding your attention Page 60

Health

Is coffee good or bad for you? Nutrition expert Judith spills the beans Page 66 TheBigChilli

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BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

Monsoon Midnights Special places in Bangkok, as experienced by the Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group Dear reader Welcome to ‘Monsoon Midnights,’ a brand new series of stories by the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group. The storytellers of the BWWG come from all over the world but they all have a special place in this city, somewhere surprising, obscure and unexpected, as yet undiscovered. Follow us to these hidden places right here, month after month.

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NIGHTFALL OVER BANGKOK THERE are some very high places in Bangkok. Places where you can look out and see the city like an interactive map spread out beneath you. Tonight, the moonlight is mirrored on myriads of watery surfaces. Puddles, ponds, mosquito traps, stagnant canals and flowing rivers sparkle and ripple and flicker, creating fanciful geometric shapes that dissolve and reform incessantly. A breeze, a small wave, a passing shadow erase what has barely appeared. The city itself is a place of transition. Many who are here tonight will leave tomorrow. Some are on a year-long trek, bridging the gap between school and life, others spend a precious week and precious savings longing for paradise. And some are fortunate enough to travel in style, staying at five star hotels whose lights are reflected in the river, served by a complex hierarchy of maids, waiters, receptionists, cooks, managers and bell boys. And musicians. Vintage jazz singers from around the world do regular stints in the hotel lounges of Bangkok, where you can hear them all evening for the price of a cocktail or two. But most of the music is made by a more local, or at least regional, cast of players for whom the hotels and their cousins, the cruise ships, are a lifelong career. They serve just as the cooks serve, on a daily roster, providing for customers’ ears alongside their stomachs. Unlike the cooks, however, they have to migrate from venue to venue, on a series of short term contracts, following the paths of contacts and fashion. The hotels like variety as well as reliability. The line of luxury along the water draws my eye. The hotels stand tall, like a visual representation of the dizzying vertical between the international guests and owners and those who serve them here. They all cross lives in the public rooms, sites of attempted splendour. As I draw closer, I can hear the music. One hotel is pretty much like another, but every voice carries the story of a unique life. The musical numbers are well tried standards, chosen to the presumed taste of the audience: nothing that could possibly offend, nothing too startling or daring, nothing too fast or too heavy. But live music is just that, alive. In the well refrigerated atmosphere, among the bland

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colours, the carefully mediocre design, someone is singing. A voice, a warm breath, a body. A singer with her memories, her thoughts, her emotions. You can’t refrigerate all that away. Tonight’s storyteller is Mariejoy San Buenaventura. She is sitting quietly behind an expansive arrangement of orchids, eyes closed, a slight smile on her face. She has been here for a long time, listening to the music and to life.

The Lounge Singer By Mariejoy San Buenaventura “What do you mean you’re not working tonight? I need my accompanist! You expect me to sing a cappella?” “I can’t do it, Cynthia. I hurt too much.” Mario, so emotional. The poor guy had just learned his wife had left him. Left the child with the grandmother and then set off he doesn’t even know where. Poor guy. “I understand, I sympathize, but you can’t leave me like this. If you had told me two hours ago I might have been able to get a replacement, but it’s too late now.” “I am going to catch the first flight home. Tonight.” “Have you even got a re-entry permit? You won’t be able to return.” “I don’t care. I need to see my daughter.” “Listen, Mario. Tomorrow is pay day. Work with me tonight. Claim your pay tomorrow, and then go home, with some extra cash.” He sighs. A long, tired one. “All right. I’m coming.” “Hurry. Our first set begins in half an hour.” I walk over to the refreshment corner in the staff room and make myself some hot tea with lime juice and honey. My voice tonic. It also keeps me awake. I’ve got to sing until quarter to one in the morning and sometimes by midnight my limbs feel limp from all the singing. I settle down on a plush chair and wait for the tea to thicken.


Five minutes before our evening begins, I’ve drunk all the tea and am applying lipstick, and Mario bursts into the staff room, his face stern. “Hi, you made it,” I say softly. He grunts. He puts on his tie and jacket. “Line up A tonight.” Which means that our first song is “Some Enchanted Evening.” Line up A is our mellow line up. “I know. Let’s go.” He stomps out of the room. All right. He is a little angry. I hope that will give him the strength not to break down. I follow him down a brightly-lit corridor then into the elevator. Once the doors open into the lobby, he stomps straight past a gigantic tongue-shaped arrangement of orchids. I watch his stiff back and curled fists. It is suddenly hard to breathe in the warmth of halogen lamps and thickly upholstered sofas. I could almost wish to break through the tinted glass walls and take a breath of cool river air. The piano and microphone are tucked away between two marble posts that frame a view of the riverside porch and the water beyond. I hear him flick open the lid of the piano keys as I take a minute to look at the approaching hotel ferry, a short, wide wooden boat with a roof curved and pointed like a flame. I count five customers seated in the boat and can almost hear their grateful breaths. If they only knew what claustrophobia they were coming to, they might turn back. Some enchanted evening, you may see a stranger, you may see a stranger across a crowded room. I love meeting strangers in this job because I am always searching for a great story, something eye-opening and alien to my life. A bearded, blond

rancher with a kind smile told me about growing up with horses. It was in Shanghai I met him, and he stood out among the dark-haired clean-shaven Chinese like sequins on a shirt. He talked of the smells, and the snickers and neighs that he could understand since he was a little boy. A fall that put him in the hospital for weeks. And riding in grassland with the mountains far in the distance. A story of wind and sky, against our view of skyscrapers that cold evening. The sound of her laughter will sing in your dreams. In Athens, in the simplest, most elegant hotel lobby I have ever sung in, I chatted with a librarian who was taking a trip around the world. She was gray and very prim, and wore long skirts. Once she had traveled across the desert in a van. She had been served delicious, strong coffee that had been boiled on an open fire. Someone had brought a boom box and kept playing electronica and she had wished so intensely for silence. She said she was free for the first time in her life. She had such an inward look after saying that, so I felt too shy to ask her what she meant. She sipped her fruit punch and yawned. I do not think she was used to late nights. Who can explain it? Who can tell you why? Mario just tickles the piano lightly for these lines. I’m surprised at his control. The poor guy’s eyelids are even darker than usual tonight. There are so many things he needs, but my most urgent wish for him is many hours of refreshing sleep. Or all through your life you may dream all alone. “How did you get into professional singing?” people ask. So I tell them about growing up with parents who sang all the time at home,

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BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

about listening to the radio constantly you know there is no point in taking HE Bangkok Women’s Writers Group, as an adolescent, and then answering risks in a relationship? It’s so quaint that founded in 2001, and led by Anette Pollner an ad in the newspaper for a singer in a old songs have an introduction, like a (who also writes the recurring ‘moon intro’ band. I tell them about street food and prologue. This intro is much harder to stories in this series in her famous neo psychedelic subway trains in my favorite cities. I sing than the verses. I find the second don’t tell them that the band was a good and fi fth lines a bit difficult. Oh, I’m style), is where creative women from all over the group of people, but broke up when the overthinking it, listening too hard. Just world meet to workshop their writing in a supother singer got pregnant and she and let the sounds come out. I know this portive and inspiring environment. Many of our the drummer decided to settle down song. Let the words come out. members are published and prize winning authors, in the home country. I don’t tell them Okay, now on to the verses. but we are open to all women who are passionate about being a vagabond for the next few Bluebirds in the spring. Should I blow about writing, including complete beginners. The years after that, working with different a kiss to the audience after And then a BWWG has published a Thai English language accompanists, moving from hotel to hotel, kiss? No, too corny. A lemonade, to cool bestseller, ‘Bangkok Blondes’ and various pamcountry to country. All the while getting you in some leafy glade. That’s inviting. phlets. We regularly give readings around town a little older, feeling my range get a little Maybe I’ll take a trip. Some place where and have been part of international festivals and shorter with each year. I don’t tell them I can hike through a forest. Or with cultural exchanges. Please contact bkk_writers@ that I regret giving up on an education flower gardens. A retreat house, maybe. yahoo.com for more information. degree to go with the band to Japan. What am I talking about? Singers This month’s storyteller is Mariejoy San During the first break, an elderly don’t get holidays. We are the Buenaventura, usually a poet, who teaches pocouple smiles at me as I pass their entertainment for people on holiday. This etry and short story writing at Mahidol University sofa, and I decide to sit in the armchair lobby is full of people taking the summer International College and is the Editor in Chief across the coffee table and exchange off, enjoying a late night, ordering of ‘Hitherto: The MUIC Literary Journal’ and is a few words. It is their fi ftieth wedding margaritas and talking to their dates. currently working on her first novel. She is also a anniversary. I offer to sing something Hopefully listening to me once in a while. singer, her love for words further manifesting itself special for them. They request “I Wish And to Mario. God, those chords! in her enjoyment of lyrics. You Love,” which surprises me. The couple dances cheek to cheek. “Isn’t that song about goodbyes?” I His spotty hand is on her thickened ask. waist, and there is contentment in their “Yes, but we like the melody so much. ‘I Wish You Love’ is faces. The other guests have moist eyes. I avoid looking at Mario our song. We’ve been together long enough to be ironic about and focus on the dancing wife and husband, still so tender with our relationship.” each other after fi fty years. They share a small, brief laugh. In the middle of the table But most of all, when snowflakes fall, I wish you love. The is a single stem of magenta orchids in a narrow vase. I look at couple claps. I acknowledge this with a smile. Finally I glance at its lush folds and suspect that I have missed out on some great Mario. His head is bowed and his shoulders are slumped. I really understanding of life. have an excellent accompanist in him. He is ten years younger I excuse myself and go to the staff room to see Mario, who than I am, barely past being a kid, but he plays the piano as if he is drinking soda water from a tall glass. has been a pro for decades. I hope no one notices that his tears “Hey. Do you want to talk? About what happened, or about are falling on his hands. anything else? I’m here for you.” “I don’t want to talk. I just want to finish this night and then ‘Moon River, wider than a mile, I’m crossing you in style go home. I’ve got to be at the immigration early to get a re-entry. someday’ – as long as we can imagine a steady beat to the Then I have a flight to catch.” He doesn’t even thank me for soundtrack of our lives, the journey home is smooth and mellow. reminding him of the re-entry. He unwraps a stick of gum as But if I stop to listen, there is another kind of music that noisily as possible and then chews it with a grimace. wells up from the city streets, the night blossoms and the stinkholes “Fine. Thank you for playing for me tonight. Let’s go. underneath the pavement. From inside my own life. It is not so Second set. It’s nearly ten.” He looks at me with annoyed eyes, easy on the ear, it has an undefinable rhythm, it doesn’t create not liking to be reminded of the time. illusion. Mario plays such beautiful chords to begin the song. They This is the music I dance to, moon or not. remind me of certain days when we are asked to start work I will see the moon over Bangkok again next month, when I visit earlier and I step into the hotel ferry just as the setting sun lights our next storyteller, waiting for me already, somewhere, in an the river. Goodbye, no use leading with our chins. That is a funny undiscovered corner of the city. expression, a funny first line to a song. I know it comes from Let me take you on that journey! boxing. So strange to use it for romance. Are there times when Anette Pollner, leader of the BWWG

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Shopping|New products

JONATHAN SAUNDERS FOR JASPAL ■ WANT to update your wardrobe this summer season? Jaspal’s new collection is definitely worth a look. Designed in collaboration with acclaimed British designer Jonathan Saunders, who was inspired by the “youthful striking energy of summer,” the new collection consists of up to 26 pieces and features short full skirts and cute dresses combined with bomber jackets and luxury sweatshirts. Floral prints and tones such as mint green, orange, pink, red and dark blue keep things summery, while quality leather bags and shoes, and a wide range of accessories, complete the look. www.jaspal.com

Talking

Shop Hot products and stores demanding your attention

CHADDOCK OPENS IN BANGKOK ■ LUXURY American furniture designer Chaddock has opened a new flagship store in Bangkok. Located at Siam Paragon Mall, and opened in partnership with DM HOME, the third-floor showroom includes full vignettes representing every room in the house – foyer, dining room, living room, study, and bedroom – presented in nearly 200 square meters of idea-inspiring displays.

SCOOT IN STYLE ■ THEY may not be the safest mode of transport in Bangkok, but motorbikes certainly provide the quickest way to negotiate the city’s jam-packed streets. If you’re looking to take the plunge and buy your own bike, we suggest you check out this little beauty imported by Vespiario, Thailand’s sole authorized distributor of Italy’s iconic Vespa. Called the Primavera, this new model takes Vespa’s iconic frame from the ’60s and gives it a modern makeover, all the while retaining the retro-cool essence for which the brand is famed. Six colours and eight designs are available. The 125cc models are priced B95,400, and the 150cc models at B115,900. Vespa Flagship Store, A Square, Sukhumvit 26 Tel: 02 262 0888 www.vespa.co.th

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PHOTOGRAPHY MADE EASY ■ IF you find yourself missing a lot of great photo opportunities because your camera takes too long to focus, the new Sony a6000 is definitely worth a look. Boasting the world’s fastest autofocus – just 0.06 seconds – this light, compact model with built in flash means all those quirky street scenes you need to capture in an instant are now less likely to escape you. Other highlights of this 24.3 megapixel interchangeable-lens camera include full HD video, downloadable PlayMemories Camera Apps, and inbuilt WiFi for sharing images with your mobile. Prices start at B27,990. www.sony.co.th



Expat Women

Education |News

School Report

Soccer schools kick off this month

BANGKOK Soccer Schools will this month host two summer camps, at two different venues, for soccer loving youngsters in a variety of age groups. From June 9-13, and June 16-20, kids can get their kicks at ISB International School in a camp priced B5,500 per week, or B1,200 per day. Age groups include BSS mini (for 4 and 5 year olds), under 8s, under 10s, under 12s, under 14s, and under 16s. Girls only sessions will be offered in the older age groups. Then, for the week commencing June 30 for nine weeks, a soccer camp will be available at Arena 10 (Thonglor Soi 10), priced B7,500 per week, or B1,600 per day. Suitable for children from 5-12 years old. For more info about the camps visit bangkoksoccerschools.com.

NIST Figure Skater shines in Dubai

THITA (Palmy) Lamsam, a 14-year-old Year 9 NIST student and a 2014 Thailand National Figure Skating Champion, won first place at the 2014 Dubai Golden Cup, held last month in the United Arab Emirates. The event was sanctioned by the International Skating Union (ISU), making it Palmy’s first gold medal in an ISU competition. With three hours of practice each day and mentoring from coaches Pang Rui, Chrisha Gossard and Anthony Liu – all accomplished, awardwinning skaters in their own right – she is expected to only continue improving.

Summer experiences at KIS

SCHOOL may be out for summer, but kids can still enjoy fun learning experiences at KIS, which will host a Toddler Camp and Primary Summer Experience from June 16 – July 4. A Science Discovery week for secondary students will also be held from June 16 – 20. More details and prices can be found on page 63. www.kis.ac.th

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Not to miss!

Dining for a good cause

Summer art camps at La Lanta La Lanta Fine Art is set to host a series of Summer Art Camps for children aged 6 to 12. Arranged to promote the “discovery of ideas through observation and internalization,” the camps will focus on three key areas – idea development, translation of ideas into visuals, and expression of oneself. Camps will commence on June 30 and end on Aug 8. Each camp will have a different theme, such as Yummy Art, People and Places, Birds Eye View, and more. Each camp will run for five days (Mon-Fri) from 9 am to 1.30pm. B7,500 per person per camp; inclusive of art materials, lunch, and afternoon snacks. La Lanta Fine Art, 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel: 02 204 0583 www.lalanta.com

CAMILLIAN Home will host its third annual Charity Gala Dinner on Sat Jun 21 at Dusit Thani Bangkok’s Napalai Ballroom. Visitors can expect a night of fine wines, gourmet cuisine, fabulous entertainment, and the chance to win some superb prizes, including holiday getaway packages, luxury furniture, dining vouchers, and more. Established in 2009 by Father Giovanni Contarin, Camillian Home is a registered non-profit children’s charity providing care and treatment for children living with disabilities and serious illness. Tickets to the Gala Dinner are B4,200 and include a four-course dinner, fine wines and entertainment. Last year’s event raised 1.6 million baht. This year’s goal is two million baht. Tel: 086 593 0806 (Benjarat Jitueakul. Thai/Eng) email: camillianhomepr@gmail.com



School Report

Promotion|Harrow

Harrow rocks for cHarity

Student bands join BodySlam for a thrilling action-packed concert

■ HARROW International School struck a chord with music lovers of all ages when it hosted the 2014 edition of its popular annual charity rock concert last month. Headlined by famous Thai rock band BodySlam, the guitar-fuelled fundraiser also featured performances by 20 student rock bands, all of whom picked up their instruments to help raise funds for the

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newly opened Beaumont School in the North East of Thailand. With professional staging, sound and lighting, the scene was set for a concert to remember and, despite rain delaying the start of the show, the capacity crowd was not to be disappointed. Would be rock stars of tomorrow, from a Year 6 band right through to the Year 13 bands, gave outstanding performances for four consecutive hours before headliners BodySlam capped the evening with an action-packed, heart-pounding show. BodySlam’s lead singer K. Toon summed-up the spirit of the event with an inspirational speech that reminded Harrow students and their friends that, if they set their sights high, they can always achieve their dreams – just like he, a self-described ‘country boy,’ has managed to do.

BodySlam’s debut performance at an International School in Thailand left everyone with the shared vision that together, through music, it is possible to make a difference. And, with proceeds of the event going directly to financing new buildings for the Beaumont School, the concert has already put the wheels in motion for offering new educational opportunities for impoverished students in the North East. Sponsors of the event included Angel Wings, Ducati, Santorini Park, RSM Thailand, Baan Lux Property, Lexus, CIMB, Epicure Catering, Park and Garden Recreation Specialists, CIMB Asset Management, PCS, Ricoh, and Friends of Harrow. www.harrowschool.ac.th



Expat Women

Health|Caffeine

The truth about coffee Nutrition coach Judith Coulson spills the beans on caffeine’s effects on the body

■ AS I’m passionate about health and well-being, my friends and business partners are usually surprised, and often ask questions, when they see me drinking coffee. Isn’t it unhealthy? They ask. Doesn’t it boost stress? Well, instead of being boring and giving you the answers straight up, here’s a short Q&A about coffee which sheds more light on this often misunderstood drink. About how many cups of coffee does the average person drink daily? 1, 3, or 5? More than three quarters of Thailand residents drink coffee. And more than half say they drink 2-3 cups every day, which is considered a moderate amount. While experts aren’t all on the same page regarding the impact of coffee on health, most agree that drinking coffee in moderation has no proven, negative effects (unless you’re already a very nervous person, or suffer from high blood pressure). Which coffee has less caffeine? 1. Fresh roast coffee 2. Instant coffee Roast coffee has between 80 to 115mg

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caffeine per cup, if it’s made in a drip brew pot. Instant coffee doesn’t brew as long. That’s partly why it has only about 65mg of caffeine per cup. Where did coffee first come from? 1. South and Central America 2. Hawaii 3. Africa The major species of coffee plants (more than 25 of them) are all native to the tropics of Africa, mainly Ethiopia. Drinking coffee may lower your risk of? 1. Gallstones 2. Diabetes type 2 3. Both Too much coffee can lead to a faster heart rate and temporarily higher blood pressure. But research shows that your daily cup of Joe could be good for you in the long run. Coffee with caffeine may prevent gallstone disease, Alzheimer’s, and type 2 diabetes. Coffee plants are related to? 1. Roses 2. Gardenias 3. Berries

They don’t smell the same, but they both smell good! Coffee is the biggest cash crop in the plant family called Rubiaceae. One member in this clan is the fragrant flower Gardenia. Every year an average Bangkokian drinks enough coffee to fill a? 1. Swimming Pool 2. Bathtub 3. Wading pool Your basic home bathtub holds around 90 litres of water. That’s almost exactly the same as the amount of coffee each Bangkokian drinks on average a year. Me included! Where is the best place to store your coffee beans or ground coffee? 1. Freezer 2. Refrigerator 3. Counter Just make sure it’s in a dark, cool place in an airtight holder. Glass and ceramic containers are good. Moisture can make coffee break down, so neither the fridge nor the freezer is the best home for it – just leave it on the counter. If you have a lot of coffee, it’s ok to


freeze it. Put it into small, airtight plastic bags. To keep it fresh, don’t refreeze. What is the best way to protect my teeth from the acid in coffee? 1. Brush my teeth right after drinking coffee 2. Use a straw 3. Rinse with water If you brush your teeth right after drinking coffee, you could hurt sensitive surfaces. Better to drink a glass of water, which will also re-hydrate you. Don’t swirl the coffee around in your mouth or use a straw. This makes the coffee hit your teeth faster, which can cause more damage. Coffee contains cell protecting antioxidants? 1. True 2. False True! Some people get more antioxidants with coffee than with fruits and vegetables. That does not mean you should consume more coffee than you do vegetables and fruits, but it does mean that drinking a cup of coffee has its benefits. Why does rare Indonesian Civet coffee cost so much? 1. It’s mixed with gold flakes 2. It’s made out of animal droppings 3. It’s strained hundreds of times It’s true, Civet coffee comes from the droppings of the Indonesian civet cat, or Luwak. The cats eat fresh coffee cherries but don’t digest the beans inside. Workers wash the dropped beans and they’re sold for over US110 a pound as Kopi Luwak. It’s said that the cats’ gut enzymes make the beans less acidic with better flavour. Decaffeinated coffee contains no caffeine? 1. True 2. False False! Almost all decaffeinated coffee contains at least some caffeine. 5-6 cups of decaffeinated coffee can give you the same caffeine load as one cup of normal coffee. Please note: My health and wellness recommendations are always based on international medical research or international accredited guidelines. But they may not apply to everyone. Individual health status, age, sex, gender, religion, and genetics all come into play. Put simply, we are all unique. Judith Coulson is a Medical Nutrition & Lifestyle Coach, specialising in drug free disease prevention and health promotion. Contact Judith@ lifestylefoodclinic.com for individual Food and Lifestyle Analysis and

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Advice|Problems solved

Ask the experts

Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Expat life getting you down? Don’t suffer in silence. Send in your problems and get advice from professional counsellors Anette and Johanna

Q

Desperate for a taste of freedom

I AM a teenager and I often see articles from the perspective of parents, but what about us? I have big issues with my mum and dad. They are too strict and they think the whole world is a dangerous place. I am not a difficult teenager. I have good grades and I know what I want for my future. I am not planning to do silly things, but I do want to experience life a bit, such as going out with classmates. My dad thinks I’m too young for that, but I am 16! From my friends, I hear the stories of how they go to parties, dance and have fun. I’m not planning to get drunk, but I do want to know what it is like to party. My parents are afraid someone will put drugs in my drink or guys will force themselves upon me. They see danger in ever y corner. After a lot of discussion my parents finally agreed I could go out with a group of people in my class, but when I was ready to go my dad decided to go with me and told me he would pick me up around 11.30. He would stay in the neighbourhood. I did go that evening, but I felt embarrassed knowing my dad was close by, kind of controlling the situation. Is this normal for parents? My classmates don’t seem to have these issues at home. Or am I a girl that takes too many risks by wanting to join in parties and go out? Do they think that they can lock me up? After all, in two years’ time I will go to college and have to live by myself, so…

Mimi, 16, from the US

A

Dear Mimi,

■ The question you ask is legitimate and I am almost sure you are not the only young person who is in this situation. You sound to me like a responsible young woman. And at the age of 16 it is also normal to want to experience a bit of life outside the home. The fact that in your class everyone is talking about it makes it even more important to you.

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Another aspect of this issue is that parents (or primary caretakers that the child bonds with) need to learn ‘to let go’ and trust their child. Parents need to accept and respect that they are no longer the only important persons in the life of a teenager. This is a growing process and for some parents it can be very hard. Parents can fear ‘dangers’ from peer pressure like unlimited alcohol, drugs and sexual activities. It seems that it is an even more dangerous world for girls since they can suffer more from the consequences of being sexually active, both physically and emotionally. For some fathers it can be difficult to accept that a daughter might become sexually active and there can be many reasons for this. Fathers were young men too, once, and they think they know how other young men will behave, respecting or disrespecting the feelings of a woman. They see their teenage daughter develop into a beautiful, attractive woman and, fearing she will be harmed, can become over-protective. That evening (apart from knowing that your father was close by and you felt embarrassed) how did you like the party? What did you enjoy about it? Was the party in someone else’s home and were their parents around, or did you go to a bar or other public space? Was the Thai law regarding the legal age to buy alcohol respected or did you sneak into certain clubs illegally? You could try to discuss the issue openly with your parents and ask them with what kind of outings they would agree with, and what time they would like you to come home. Is it safe for you to come home by public transport or is it better if your father picks you up? Try to approach the topic calmly. Tell them you appreciate their care and concerns for you. Then tell them you know your responsibilities but you want to spread your wings. Ask them to allow you to test the waters and to trust you, so you can prove to them that you know what you are doing. By getting the opportunity once in a while (agree how frequently!) tor to fly you will be ec ir D l nica is the Cli the better prepared for oning MS r. She trained in eK D a nn • Joha ounseling Cente your college years. of NCS C ds and Australia. Netherlan I wish you good luck!


Q

Marriage rocked by violent outbursts

I FEEL ashamed to say this, but my wife and I are in a vicious cycle. We’ve been married for ten years and our arguments have steadily been getting worse. My wife can be ver y aggressive (verbally) and sometimes she really provokes me. And then I just see red… I have hit her and she had bruises a few times. Afterwards, I felt awful and apologized. Then it was ok for a while but it did happen again. So far, she has always forgiven me but I am worried. I don’t want to be like this. How can we stop this?

lem of being violent is yours, and all yours, is a good beginning. But it is not enough. Many perpetrators apologise and do it again. Often, the victim forgives them. Of course. If the victim is your partner, she has every reason to want to believe you. She wants the violence to stop but she also wants the relationship to go on. Without the violence. Pushing her to choose between the relationship and a life without violence is yet another injury that Mike, 44, from England you are causing. Imagine if you, yourself, were the victim in an important and close relationship (maybe if you were routinely beaten up by a group of violent men connected with your wife’s family?). In fact Dear Mike, I encourage you to imagine this often. Maybe it makes you feel very uncomfortable. Maybe terrible memories threaten to come ■ While you need to work out the other up. Maybe deep down you already feel like a victim. You need to issues in your relationship together with explore that, it’s the key to your problem of violence. your wife, the violence is your problem Many men become perpetrators because they can not and yours alone. Only you can stop it. tolerate the memory of having been victims. Or maybe you are First of all, to be very clear: you are comcompletely cut off from empathy with others. Maybe you can mitting a crime. In Thailand, like in many not even imagine what it feels like to be the victim. Then this is other countries, there is no difference in the main source of your abnormal behaviour. law between ‘domestic’ violence and other kinds of assaults. If If you really want to stop, you have to do two things: you you attacked someone on the street or in the office, you could have to find out why be arrested. This is exactly the same with your wife. And, if you are doing this and your violence ever comes to court, it is not your wife who is you have to stop right prosecuting you as a criminal, it is the state on behalf of all the now. Right now. citizens. Your wife is only a witness. If you are not ready I think it is important never to lose sight of this, when you to do this, you will not explore the underlying reasons for your violent behaviour. You stop. may find that your inability to manage conflict comes from beIn that case, your ing assaulted yourself in the past, or from some other source wife would be best adof weakness. It is important to investigate and work through vised to leave you. Bear all this so that you can eventually lead a normal life but it is in mind that you can never an excuse to commit more crimes. be arrested for assault If you have not learnt how to manage conflict, you can a long time after you find many websites, books and of course professional councommit the crime. selors who can teach you the skills you lack. The first step is So, ask yourself if • Anette Pollner always to remove yourself from the situation if you can not of seven internatiAdv. Dipl. Couns., is one you want to stop. Today. Counseling Cente onal counsellors at NCS trust your behaviour. This is a practical step you can take trained in London r in Saphan Kwai. She at any time, even if you have not worked out completely staff counsellor and the US and worked as a at Bart’s Hospita l in London. why you are violent and before you are able regulate other aspects of your behaviour. Reality check: the majority of men NEVER hit their wives. You are the one who is not normal. Here is my question to you: do you want to stop? Contact details: ncs-counseling.com, anette.p@ncs-counseling.com, You may say ‘yes of course’ but I’m not so sure when I read Tel: 02 279 8503 Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com your letter. Admitting that you have a problem and that the prob-

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Expat Women

Insight|Social

Netballers Masquerade At Zaks PLAYERS from the Bangkok Netball League capped the season in style with a party at Zaks Wine Pub, Sukhumvit Soi 11.

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Expat Women

Health|Fitness

Cascade Club ■ DECKED out with top-of-the-range machines and equipment, this private health club on levels 6 and 7 of The Ascott Sathorn offers membership packages to suit all exercising needs. Prices range from B7,000 per month for a short-term membership to B95,000 for a four-year platinum membership. All memberships officially begin on the 1st or 16th of the month. More than just a fitness centre, Cascade Club also has an integrated spa, and Aldo’s Mediterranean Bistro & Wine Bar is located just above the gym. Level 6 and 7 The Ascott Sathorn, 187 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 676 6969 Email: info@cascadeclubandspa. com/membership@cascadeclubandspa.com

Your Bangkok Fitness Guide Afraid of looking a trifle wobbly on the sands this summer? The perfect beach body is just a gym membership away. Here are some of the city’s best deals WE Fitness Society ■ ANOTHER newcomer to Bangkok’s fitness scene, We Fitness now operates four branches in town, each equipped with the latest gym equipment and offering a wide range of cardio classes, dance classes, mind and body classes, yoga classes, cycling classes, and more. At time of writing gym memberships were around B25,000 per year. Ratchayothin Tel: 02 515 3699 / Sukhumvit (Ekkamai) Tel: 02 785 3939 / Esplanade-Ratchada Tel: 02 640 3939 / Pinklao Tel: 02 119 3399

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The Aspire Club ■ AN easy to follow pricing structure means you can focus on what really matters at this popular fitness center near Asok BTS. You pay only for what you use, so this means rates such as B600 for a one day pass; B1,900 for a one week unlimited pass; B2,900 for monthly gym only pass; B3,900 for monthly Bootcamp only pass; and B4,900 for crossfit only pass. Pay B5,900 for the Titanium pass, and you’ll get unlimited access to Aspire Club’s renowned training sessions and group training. If you’re really serious about getting in shape, it’s worth every baht. The Aspire Building, 348/2 Sukhumvit Rd (Asoke BTS station). Tel: 02 229 4114 www.fitcorpasia.com


Fitness First ■ AS one of the largest privately owned health clubs in the world, it’s no surprise many branches of Fitness First can be found scattered throughout Bangkok. There are more membership tiers than you can shake a dumbbell at, but expect prices to range from B2,100 per month up to B34,696 for a 12-month Platinum Lifestyle membership. Group exercise classes can be joined at no extra cost. Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 610 6777 www.fitnessfirst.co.th

The LAB

The British Club Bangkok ■ FOUR membership categories are available at this longstanding club on Silom Road: Annual membership, Ordinary and Associate membership, Country membership (for people who reside outside a radius of 80 kilometers from the club), and Non-voting ordinary members (for short stay members who want to pay by installment over a period of 12 months). Rates range from B31,382 per year for single members under 30, to B168,628 per year for a family pass. Alongside its fitness center, The British Club also boasts cricket nets, a multipurpose sports court, a 25m swimming pool, four tennis courts, and three squash courts. Great value for money! Silom Soi 18 / 189 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 234 0247 www.britishclubbangkok.org

■ ADVERTISING itself as a ‘playground’ of fitness, The Lab offers high intensity training programmes designed to get you in shape faster than you can shout ‘Cake, please!’ Well, almost. From TRX strength training and Beach body classes, to Lab circuit training and Warrior workouts, there’s something for everyone here, just be prepared to sweat like you’ve never sweat before. A wide range of packages are on offer, ranging from B350 for a 30 minute class (drop in rate) to B51,200 for an eight week transformation package (featuring four personal training sessions per week). RSU Tower, 3rd Floor, Sukhumvit 31 Rd. Tel: 02 662 1618 www.tbtlab.com

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Expat Women

Health|Fitness

Virgin Active ■ THIS new state-of-the-art fitness center features the latest Technogym Artis range of cardio equipment, which can keep track of your progress via an app on your mobile phone. Factor in a 20 meter pool, Kinesis, high intensity interval training, Virtual indoor cycling classes, Powerplate classes, sleep pods, a climbing wall, and free personal training for up to eight weeks, and there are plenty of ways for you to get in shape here (well, the sleep pods don’t count, obviously). Activation Fee: B3,000. Weekly Fee: B645. Empire Tower, South Sathorn Road. Tel: 02 770 9772 www.virginactive.co.th

Clark Hatch Fitness Center ■ EXERCISING in Silom isn’t just limited to runs around Lumpini Park or joining its freefor-all aerobics sessions. Head to Clark Hatch at Thaniya Plaza and you’ll find top-quality equipment, a salt-water swimming pool, boxing and kickboxing classes, Yoga, Pilates, and more facilities aimed at getting you in tip-top condition. Prices range from B500 for a day pass to B22,800 for annual membership. Visit the gym’s website and you can even register for a free one-day pass. 9F Thaniya Plaza, 52 Silom Rd (connected to BTS Sala Daeng station). Tel: 02 231 2250 www.clarkhatchthaniya.com

True Fitness ■ THREE branches of True Fitness can be found in Bangkok – Exchange Tower, CentralWorld, and Esplanade Ngamwongwan-Kaerai. All feature a full range of fitness equipment, aerobics and yoga classes, and personal trainers. Head to the Exchange Tower Branch, and you’ll also find a spa and café. At time of writing rates were B2,899 per month. Exchange Tower Tel: 0 2610 0666 Zen@CentralWorld Tel: 0 2610 0999 Esplanade Ngamwongwan-Kaerai Tel: 0 2831 0999 www.truefitness.co.th

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Y O U R U L T I M A T E W H A T ’ S O N G U I D E F O R J U N E 1 4

What’s on pArt pPerformance pSport pFootball pMovies & Albums pBooks

The Cape Panwa Hotel Phuket Raceweek sets sail on July 16. Page 80.

La Fete

The French festival returns with more international shows Page 78

Have a laugh

After a two year absence, the Punchline Comedy Club is back! Page 78

Guitar fest

Asia International Guitar Festival just perfect for classical guitarists Page 78 TheBigChilli 75


What’s On|Exhibitions

Art

Until 26/6

Young Programme

THE 2014 edition of La Lanta Fine Art’s Young Programme features multi-disciplinary work by four up-and-coming artists from South Korea (Ha, Sung Mi; Jang, Kyoung Ae; Lee, Sang Duk; and Oh, Min Su). Making up the 25 artworks are ceramic sculptures, paintings, and mixed media with LED lights.

19/6 12/7 Fake-Work

La Lanta Fine Art, 245/14 Sukhumvit Soi 31. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm 02 204 0583 : email: info@lalanta.com

WITTY, comical and thought-provoking, Prawit Lumjalurn’s paintings poke fun at the illusions created by global corporations, and explore the negative effects of materialism on society. Opening reception: Thurs June 19 at 6pm.

Number 1 Gallery, The Silom Galleria Bld., Silom Rd. 02 630 2523 : number1gallery.com

26/6 27/7

19/6 10/8

Vacarmes

Swallow...The Love

LOVE, desire and passion take on a gothic flavour in this new series of prints by Chayanit Muangthai, whose haunting images explore these confusing emotions in a muted palette of browns, greys, blacks and reds.

Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, Boromrachachonnanee Rd. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (closed Mon) 02 422 2092 : ardelgallery.com

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Until 6/7

TRANSLATED from French, Vacarmes means ‘loud noise,’ but silent pondering is more likely to be encountered at this exhibition of images by French photographer Philippe Moisan, whose snapshots of magnificent natural scenes explore themes of hope, silence, waiting, confusion and uncertainty.

Ardel’s Third Place Gallery, Sukhumvit 55, Thonglor Soi 10. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (closed Mon). 02 422 2092 : ardelgallery.com

Gentle War

FEATURING a unique pairing of works by Belgium-based artist Peggy Wauters and Israel-based artist Nir Segal, Gentle War reflects the artists’ struggles to wrest new meanings from their objects – including Wauters use of culturally entrenched symbolism, and Segal’s introduction of different ways of seeing and thinking about the overlooked or disregarded. Opening Reception: Thurs June 19 from 7pm onward. 100 Tonson Gallery, Ploenchit Rd., Lumpini. 02 684 1527 Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm. : 100tonsongallery.com



What’s On|Performance

Stage

4/6 6/7 Ten years of La Fête

COVERING classical and electronic music, hip hop and contemporary dance, “new magic,” puppetry, photography, painting and sculpture, and more contemporary artistic creations, the 10th anniversary edition of the La Fête French-Thai Cultural Festival is loaded with highlights. From a performance by Quatuor Parisii, one of the most prestigious string quartets in the world, to a stunning new dance show by the Pockemon Crew Company, there’s something to suit almost every artistic taste. Full details can be found at www.lafete-bangkok.com.

Deerhoof

17/6 Punchline Comedy Club

KNOWN for their free-wheeling experimentalism, visceral soundscapes, and intense live shows, San Francisco based Deerhoof are anything but conventional. Catch them when they play for one night only at Harmonica.

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Asia International Guitar Festival & Competition

NOW in its eighth year, the Asia International Guitar Festival & Competition at The Sukosol Bangkok is one of the region’s biggest events for classical guitar aficionados. This year’s agenda includes master classes, Guitar exhibits, competitions and concerts by acclaimed world-class musicians hailing from Asia, the Americas and Europe. The Sukosol Bangkok, 477 Si Ayuthaya Rd. Tel: 02 247 0123 et 1916-8 www.aigf.weebly.com

16/6

Harmonica, Ozono Mall, 307 Petchburi 38/1 (Phrom Phong) 02 259 5799 : facebook.com/HarmonicaBkk

AFTER a two-year break The Punchline Comedy Club returns this month with three of the hottest comics from the UK Comedy Circuit – Eddy Brimson, Stefano Paolini, and Jeremy O’Donnell. Shows will be held on Fri June 27 and Sat June 28 at the Imperial Queens Park Hotel, which, specially for the occasion, will offer reduced prices on its popular buffet dinner. Buckets of five beers will also be available for just B430. Performances start at 9pm.

Imperial Queens Park Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 22. Tickets: B1,200 08 505 5053 (Billy) 089 767 3105 (Sirilak) : queensparkdining. com/whats-on/ sweet-deals. php

12/6 15/6

27/6 28/6 The Bootleg Beatles

FORMED from the West End cast of the Broadway musical “Beatlemania,” The Bootleg Beatles have been performing note-perfect renditions of the Fab Four’s hits since 1980. They played Glastonbury in ’94, supported Oasis in ’95, and have even performed at Wembley with Rod Stewart and Elton John. Not bad for a tribute act. Expect to hear She Loves You, I Want To Hold Your Hand, Ticket To Ride, and more of The Beatles’ best-loved hits. Show starts 8pm. Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre. Tickets range B1,000-B5,000 from : Thaiticketmajor.com


What’s On|Movies & Music

MALEFICENT

REMEMBER the evil witch from Disney’s 1959 classic animated movie Sleeping Beauty? Well, this live action movie starring Angelina Jolie sheds light on her backstory, showing how a heart-wrenching betrayal left her with a penchant for dishing out poisoned apples to princesses.

12/6

Screen 26/6

HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DRAGON 2

TRANSFORMERS: AGE OF EXTINCTION

26/6

AS humankind slowly gets used to life without any giant robots smashing things up, inventor Cade Yeager (Mark Wahlberg) goes and discovers a buried, beaten up Transformer, and sets the wheels in motion for the big beasties’ retur n.

MAGIC MAGIC

A DREAM vacation becomes a nightmare in this dark psychological drama by Chilean director Sebastian Silva. An emotionally fragile young woman, Alicia (Juno Temple), takes a trip with friends to the Chilean countryside where she begins to lose her grip on reality. Spooky.

12/6

FIVE years after Hiccup (Jay Baruchel) and Toothless successfully united dragons and Vikings on the island of Berk, the duo now finds themselves thrust into another fantastical adventure when they discover a hidden ice cave housing hundreds of new wild dragons. Movie screenings are subject to change. Keep up to date at majorcineplex.com

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What’s On|Outdoor fun

Sport

16/7 20/7

9/3 30/6 Cape Panwa Hotel Phuket Raceweek

FOUR days of racing and five nights of parties ensure there’s fun for sailors and landlubbers alike at the Cape Panwa Hotel Phuket Raceweek. The first event in the annual Asian Yachting Grand Prix, the event will be contested by up to 40 boats in categories such as IRC Classes; Sports Boat; Bareboat Charter; Cruising; and Multihulls. : phuketraceweek.com

Soccer camps for kids

KIDS with a flair for football can boost their skills and make new friends by joining one of Bangkok Soccer Schools’ summer camps. Kicking-off this month, the options are as follows: From June 9-13, and June 16-20, summer camps will be held at ISB International School. Then, from the week commencing June 30 for nine weeks, camps will be held at Arena 10 (Thonglor Soi 10). Find more info on page 62. : bangkoksoccerschools.com

Coming soon

14/9

8/6 Laguna Phuket International Marathon

OVER 6,000 participants from over 50 countries are expected to take part in the ninth edition of this grueling annual run. Join them, and you’ll tackle a scenic course which begins and ends at Laguna Grove, close to the entrance of Outrigger Laguna Phuket, taking you through local villages and pineapple and rubber plantations. Five options are on offer: marathon, half marathon, 10.5km run, 5km walk, and 2km kids run. : goadventureasia.com

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22/6 Supersports 10 Miles International Run

WANT to enter a race event but don’t have the fitness to attempt a half-marathon? Sign yourself up for this 10 mile run. Now in its second year, this popular event also features five mile and two mile categories so everyone can take part – no excuses! Starts & Finishes at Central World Ratchadamri Rd. : goadventureasia.com

Mizuno River Kwai International Half Marathon

THE 33rd edition of Thailand’s oldest road race will once again see a maximum of 1,500 international racers running the renowned course which begins and ends in front of the River Kwai Village Resort. Don’t have the stamina for a half marathon? You can always opt for the 10km course which runs alongside the main event. : goadventureasia.com



Feature

New movie|The Last Executioner

THAILAND’S LAST EXECUTIONER

This man shot 55 people. It was his Karma Image from the book, The Last Executioner, published by Maverick House 82

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A new movie being released this month tells the chilling story of Chavoret Jaruboon, who executed 55 people in a 19-year career at Bang Kwang Prison. DON LINDER, who wrote the screenplay, met Chavoret and remembers in this article a man of many surprisingly good qualities

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KHUN Chavoret Jaruboon executed 55 people, including one woman. And yet, I am very sorry we never got to be closer friends. Khun Chavoret is better known as “The Last Executioner,” which is also the title of his 2006 autobiography in English. He worked at Bang Kwang Prison (sensationalized as ‘The Bangkok Hilton’ in the movie with Nicole Kidman) for 33 years, and was the executioner from 1984 to 2003. So, 55 executions over 19 years – it wasn’t exactly like he arrived at work each day, punched the clock, and killed someone, although it certainly was an odd career. Chavoret is known as the last executioner because he was the last person in Thailand whose job it was to carry out court-ordered executions by gun before the switchover to lethal injection, which is the method still used. I wrote the screenplay of his life story – a story of life at its most beautiful and death at its most surreal – which will be released nationwide this month, produced by DeWarrenne Pictures. The experience of writing the film has been almost as bizarre as the story itself. I first met Chavoret in April 2007 at the FCCT (Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand), when he was part of a panel discussion on prison life. The others on the panel were Susan Aldous, known as ‘The Angel of Bangkok’ for her work with slum children and prisoners at Bang Kwang, and the Thai owner of a travel agency arrested for money laundering. During the evening, my overwhelming impression of Chavoret was that he was so normal. Watching him sitting there in a polo shirt and Dockers – no black hood and scythe – he looked like anyone I might sit next to on the BTS or in Starbucks. When it came to the Q and A, the questions were unusually softball for the FCCT crowd. I ended up asking the last questions, which went something like this: “You seem like a nice guy and all, but how did you reconcile your work with your Buddhism? What did you tell your family? Did you go out for beers with the guys after executions?” (It turns out he did).

I now know that Chavoret had answered variants of these questions a thousand times before. His answers focused on karma. It was his karma to do this job, and he was compassionately helping the prisoners to achieve their karma. It was his duty, after all. At the time, this all smacked of a well devised construction of denial, or worse, an “I was just following orders” defense. I wanted to know more, so I introduced myself and asked for an interview, which his editor arranged. A week later, I was in Chavoret’s office at Bang Kwang’s Foreign Affairs Division which he now headed. Of course, I’d read the book by then, so I knew of his background. Nevertheless, it was still very weird when, without any explanation, this 59-year-old executioner sat across his desk from me and for 30 minutes played air guitar and sang Beatles, Elvis, and Ventures songs. Then, we talked. And talked…for almost five hours. It turns out that in his late teens and early 20s, he was a wild rock and roller, who played guitar behind his back while his drummer hung from the ceiling, and sometimes smashed his guitars. He was really cool, dressed in the tightest 60s pants and skinny ties. He and his band, Mitra, played the bars in Udon, Ubon, and Bangkok where the American GIs partied on R&R from the Vietnam War. His favorite bar was aptly named (for an executioner-to-be) “Sorry About That” in Udon. During this time, he met his sweetheart, Khun Tew, whom he married and stayed with for 43 years until his death last year. When Khun Tew announced she was pregnant, Chavoret, whose father was a teacher, decided he needed to do the “respectable” thing and get a practical job so he could

support a family. After leaving his first love (rock and roll) behind for his next love, he tried a succession of jobs – teacher, translator on an oil rig, paramedic – but none felt right. Then, a cousin told him of a civil service exam for prison guards. Chavoret liked the guaranteed work, pension, and education benefits for his kids, so he took the exam. He didn’t plan to be an executioner. It just happened. It was his karma. Throughout history, executions in Thailand have always been very choreographed, and often very cruel. If you go to the Correction Museum on Mahachai Road in Bangkok, you can see paintings and dioramas of Thai torture and execution methods from the Ayutthaya Period (1350-1767) to the present. Among the 50 or so Ayutthaya Period tortures illustrated, my favourite (a strange word in this context) is when they cut off the flesh of a live prisoner, grilled it, and force fed it to him. Beheadings were the legal execution method from 1903-1934, and these were pretty grisly events involving a second person whose job it was to dance in front of the prisoner and try to distract him while his head was hacked off and then placed on a stick for all to see. Up through the 1930s there was even a practice of locking

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New movie|The Last Executioner

the prisoner into a giant hackeysack ball with spikes inside and getting an elephant to roll it around. From 1934-2003, executions were done by gun, until the switch to lethal injection. During Chavoret’s tenure at Bang Kwang, the process was – and still is – the epitome of division of labor. Chavoret started at the lowest job, and because he was such a responsible and precision-oriented worker, he rose through the ranks to when he was offered the executioner’s job. It’s worth going through all the jobs to know the context in which he worked. First is the pi liang, whose job it is to get the prisoner from death row. Prisoners on death row are still shackled by foot 23 hours a day. There was no advanced notice about executions, so when a pi liang came, they all knew someone would be dead within a few hours. Next, an escort walked the prisoner, still in shackles, across the prison yard, which was full of prison personnel, doctors, government officials, and witnesses. Next stop was the octagonal “cool pavilion,” where the prisoner met with a monk and was photographed and

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fingerprinted for identification. A guard was assigned to give the prisoner a pencil and paper to write anything he wanted – a letter to his family, to the King, or to Lord Buddha, or his last will and testament. The next job was to blindfold the prisoner, give him a lotus and some joss sticks, and walk him into the execution room under a sign which read ‘The End of All Suffering.’ (Chavoret later in life said it more correctly should have read ‘Death Chamber’). The next job was to tie the prisoner to a standing wooden cross, so he would be facing a wall of sand bags with his back to the executioner. The prisoner was tied to this crucifix with his hands holding the lotus in front of him. The next guard positioned a standing wooden frame with a cloth screen between the prisoner and the executioner, and attached a small cardboard bulls eye target on the screen corresponding to where the prisoner’s heart would be if shot from behind. Another would wheel in the gun, check the mechanism, load the cartridges, and aim it. Finally, the executioner would enter, wai,

and ask forgiveness of the soon-to-be-executed and Mother Earth (because blood would spill on the earth), and at the drop of a red flag, he would pull the trigger. The gun used was a machine gun. Yes. A machine gun! Chavoret told me they loaded 15 rounds, and he typically got off 9-12 rounds in bursts of three. So, the prisoner was pretty well sliced-anddiced at the end of this long dance. About two years ago, I met Tom Waller, the film’s producer/director and owner of DeWarrenne Pictures, at a mutual friend’s birthday dinner. I don’t remember how or why the conversation got around to executions, but it turned out that Tom had for some time wanted to do a film of the story, and I had hours of personal interaction with Chavoret, so it was a good match. To me the core of the story has always been the archetypal struggle of the artist against his or her need for a practical self. As I wrote the film that core belief remained, fleshed out by the incredible access I’ve had to Chavoret’s family, childhood friends, monk confidante, former band mates, and prison colleagues.


I’ve had access to his artifacts – amulets, shrines, mobile phone. I’ve even held a few of the used targets, complete with bullet holes and Chavoret’s handwritten notes on the back. Mostly, I’ve gained insight into how strongly karma and the spirit world are very real dimensions of daily Thai life, including Chavoret’s. From my meetings with him and those around him, it is clear that Chavoret was a gentle, funny, caring, and very family oriented man. Khun Tew was truly the love of his life, and he would sacrifice anything in order to provide a better life for his daughter and two sons, and the granddaughter he loved so much. His family, whom I’ve met many times, are among the nicest and most well-adjusted people I have ever known. Chavoret was also a very calm guy. His typical pose, in any type of situation be it at his desk, on a television interview, or lecturing a group of students, was with his hands clasped in front of his belly – that is, when he wasn’t knocking out some rock and roll riffs. He loved to eat, especially German food – his favourite was pigs’ knuckle – and he loved to drink, but he was by no means a drunk. He played guitar throughout his life, and he loved karaoke, but was terrible at singing Thai songs. His favourite karaoke song was Sinatra’s ‘My Way.’ He also loved American folk music, and American country and western (he sang a lot of Hank Williams). If he had ever gone to a shrink, he would have been diagnosed with OCD – he was extremely detailed

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and ordered (before an execution, he would come home, take a bath, nap, and put on a clean, freshly pressed uniform). I’ve discussed the moral and ethical dimensions of his work with him and those around him, including Phra Ajarn Boonnam, his confidante. Basically, it boils down to karma and duty. When specifically asked if he feared he’d built up bad karma, he explained to me that karma depends on intent, and Chavoret had no murderous intent. “He was an executioner, not a killer,” he told me. Chavoret also had an incredible sense of duty, primarily to his family, but also to his superiors. When I asked if he could have refused the offer to become executioner, he said “absolutely not.” Besides, he received an extra 2,000 baht for each execution, and that money could help his family. There is a kind of karmic irony to the story. When Chavoret retired about four years ago, he and Tew envisioned an easy life ahead. Shortly after, he developed cancer – first of the intestine and then of the brain – and much of his last years were very painful. He never gave up, though. Together, he and Phra Boonnam lectured on the dangers of drugs and criminal life, Chavoret appeared on endless television interviews, including a bizarre appearance on a game show modeled after the American show ‘To Tell the Truth,’ and he wrote two books in English and four in Thai. The final dimension of this story is the spirit world, which as a Westerner, I’ve come to realize is as real to some

Thais as the silverware. Although Chavoret was not a religious man (he considered himself very spiritual), he did take measures to protect himself from the spirits of the executed and from Yama, the Spirit of Death, who plagued him his whole life. I understood that in order to write the story, I had to practice a lot of willing suspension of disbelief and make karma and spirits a natural and seamless part of the narrative. Maybe it isn’t such a stretch considering that Chavoret told me a story of his 15th birthday when his father gave him his first guitar and took him to a monk fortune teller. “Your fate is to work with death,” he was told. In the film, the actor Vithaya Pansringarm, who recently appeared in ‘Only God Forgives’ and in the DeWarrenne Pictures’ ‘Mindfulness and Murder,’ delivers an incredible performance in which he virtually transforms himself into Chavoret Jaruboon. David Asavanond gives a stunning performance as The Spirit, moving seamlessly through various manifestations of Death, always keeping it real even in the most surreal situations. And, look for Duangjai Hirunsri’s performance as the only woman Chavoret executed, ironically also named Duangjai. The last thing I remember Chavoret telling me is, “We Thais believe in destiny and fate. I believe in karma.” Chavoret Jaruboon died on 30 April 2012 at the age of 64.

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Social p Last month’s best events in pictures

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

ZaP in the maRket FOUR Points by Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15, unveiled its four-million baht meeting space refurbishment, Zap, with a cocktail party attended by executives and media. Offering 70sqm of space, Zap can accommodate small to medium size group meetings for up to 40 people, while an adjacent garden with a retractable roof offers an additional 59sqm of space.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

HaRRow RoCks foR CHaRiTy A SLICE of Glastonbury-style entertainment was served up at Harrow International School’s Benefit Bash Rock Concert, which saw 20 student bands join Thailand’s famous BodySlam to help raise money for the newly opened Beaumont School in the North East of Thailand. Read the full story on page 64.

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Arty opening for CAfĂŠ At eAse CAfĂŠ At ease tea room celebrated its grand opening with an afternoon of art, premium teas, tasty snacks, and inspiring conversation at its location on soi Kasem san 2 (opposite national stadium).

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Sexy Six for LongtabLe SENSUAL dance shows, free-flow drinks, and performances by the city’s top DJs, including the bangkok invaders’ DJ ono, set the scene for a great night of partying when Long table celebrated its sixth anniversary with a ‘Sexy and Sinful’ experience to remember.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS

GIta brInGs the raP neW York-based rapper gita came to town for a one-off performance at ocean Urban Lounge, sukhumvit 33, where she wowed the crowd with her powerful rhymes and souped-up party rap. organized by Powderpuff, the event also featured performances by Bangkok-based crew Kraytel, along with DJ supersonic, DJ ballistic, DJ Ketchupboyz and DJ tantany.

Stone Bar’S Big launch noVotel Bangkok Silom’s new Stone Bar opened its doors with a big party featuring free-flow drinks, live performances, and a dynamic crowd of executives, socialites, VIPs, and media.

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SOCIAL LAST MONTH’S BEST EVENTS

sunDAY rE:HAB AT AlofT The staff and management of Aloft Bangkok - sukhumvit 11, led by General Manager Justin Malcolm, launched the hotel’s new late lunch concept, sunday re:Hab, with a special party featuring live cooking stations, DJ shows, and a chance to win two return air tickets to Macau with AirAsia. The late lunch is now available every sunday.

AsiAn flAvours ABounD AT TAi novoTEl Hua Hin Cha Am Beach resort and spa hosted a ‘Black and White Asian Extravaganza’ theme party to mark the launch of its trendy new outlet, “Tai.” The event was attended by hotel executives and many Thai celebrities, such as Gibzy and Giftza from Girly Berry, Yardthip rajpal, and ice Jiranun.

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Danny Kemp anD paul Stamp remembereD FOOtball players of all nationalities were out in force for the second annual memorial tournament for paul Stamp and Danny Kemp, two players from the londoner FC Football team, who passed away in 2011 and 2012 respectively. played at the pitches of bangkok patana School, the tournament featured eight expat teams, including a valiant showing from our very own bigChilli FC (which, despite its best efforts, didn’t win a single game). the tournament was won by bFC, whose players celebrated in grand style at the tournament’s delightfully boozy after party at the londoner brew pub, Sukhumvit 33. the tournament raised a total of 1,850 Gbp, which will be put towards Danny’s children’s education.

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Dusit makes a splash in phuket

an afternoon of colourful fun was enjoyed by a large crowd of hoteliers, media, and Vip guests at the grand opening of the dusitD2 phuket in patong Beach. armed with paintbrushes, guests enjoyed making modern art by throwing paint at performers clad in white jumpsuits, and leaving their handprints on a large canvass backdrop. among the special guests were mr Chanin Donavanik, managing Director and Chief Executive Officer of Dusit international; mr Gary murray, Chief Executive Officer of Destination Resorts Co. , ltd; and pol. Gen. pichit kuandachakupt, senator. For more info about the hotel and its latest promotions see: bit.ly/RWi0ep.

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CentRal emBassy opens in style the eagerly awaited Central embassy shopping mall opened in spectacular fashion with an exclusive party attended by over 2,000 a-list guests. Capping the glitzy event was a performance by the critically acclaimed american rapper a$ap Rocky.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Movers & shakers at azure

the monthly Movers & shakers Corporate Networking events keep pulling in the crowds and the april edition, held at the Azure Sky Studio on the 33rd floor of the renaissance Bangkok ratchaprasong hotel, was no exception, with over 150 guests turning up to enjoy a night of small-talk and business chat over free-flow drinks and plates of tasty nibbles.

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siaM@siaM opeNs iN pattaya

siaM@siaM Design hotel pattaya celebrated its grand opening last month with a cocktail party attended by special guests khun itthiphol khunplome, Mayor of pattaya City; Dr. Phornthep Phornprapha, president of siam Motors Group; and khun sutham phanthusak, Managing Director of Tiffany’s Show. The first art and design hotel in pattaya, the 268-room resort features an all-day dining restaurant, bar, gym, infinity swimming pool, and a range of meeting facilities.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Rothschild Wine dinneR a Real tReat A SPECIAL five-course menu paired with premium wines from Mapu, Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Mouton Cadet went down a treat at the “Baron Philippe de Rothschild Wine Dinner,” held last month at Centara Grand Beach Resort and Villas Hua Hin.

chandon & oysteRs at Banyan CHANDON sparkling wine and fresh oysters proved to be the perfect pairing at Banyan The Resort’s Splash Pool Bar, which hosted a special dinner event highlighting the well-matched duo last month.

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Social|Around town

Kate toKyo launches in thailand

JAPANESE cosmetics brand Kate Tokyo was launched in Thailand with a celeb-studded party at the Eden Zone of Central World Department Store, which, especially for the occasion, took on a ‘Tokyo Nightlife’ theme. The highlight of the event was a make-up demonstration by celebrity makeup artist Pearypie - Amata Chittasenee. Details about Kate Tokyo’s latest collections can be found at www.katethailand.com.

MARKETING MASTER CLASS

PR executives were out in force for the “Effective Communication for PR Personnel” workshop, conducted by marketing strategy expert Dr. Netpreeya Choomchaiyo, at the Oriental Residence on Wireless Road. The event was organized by Earth Saiswang, president of the Hotel PR Association of Thailand.

RAMADA eaRns its stRipes

RAMADA Plaza Bangkok Menam Riverside received the Ministry of Tourism and Sports’ prestigious Tourism Standard certifications last month, being awarded both the “Thailand Tourism Standard 2014 – 2016: Hotel standard – 5 star category,” and “Thailand Tourism Standard: 2014 Outstanding hotel standard – 5 star category.” These certifications are only awarded to establishments considered to be raising the standards of tourism in Thailand.

BACK TO SCHOOL WITH NONGPHO

NONGPHO Dairy Cooperative, under royal patronage, launched a new CSR project called “Nongpho Show Pow Phase 1 – Happiness from farm to Border Patrol Police School.” Together with celebrity volunteers Tye-Natapol Liyavanija and Namfon-Patcharin Sriwasukpirom, staff and management from Nongpho ventured to Tako Pid Thong Border Patrol Police School, where they hosted a lunch for the pupils and even gave the school’s bathrooms a new lick of paint.

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Social|Around Last Month’s town Best Events

MAGIC AND MAKEuP AT sephoRa

STREET magic, make-up workshops, and a thrilling performance by Amita Tata Young were just three of the highlights when the management of Sephora hosted its ‘Where Beauty Beats’ party at the brand’s flagship store in Siam Centre.

onyX opens in style VeeRana shaRes its secRet

NuTRITIONAL supplement manufacturer Verena International held a special event to celebrate the launch of ‘The Secret Plus,’ a new all-natural dietary supplement designed to help burn body fat, enhance skin tone, reduce free radicals, and lower the risk of cancer, diabetes and coronary heart disease. On hand to launch the product was the brand’s celebrity ambassador, Woonsen-Virithipa Pakdeeprasong.

ONYX: Music Odyssey, a brand new nightclub at Bangkok’s Royal City Avenue, marked its grand opening last month with an exclusive party attended by socialites, VIPs, and many Thai celebrities. Check out the club’s upcoming events at www.onyxbangkok.com

YOGA WE WING WE FLY

YOGA expert Christopher Harrison, together with Khun Happy Thanakrit Surakijbavorn, CEO of We Fitness Society, held a workshop for all yoga lovers under the name “Yoga We Wing We Fly,” which was attended by many health conscious people and celebrities such as Khun Sririta Jensen, Khun Angel Chan, Khun Supee Pongpanich, and Khun Kittiwadee Dejtumrong, at We Fitness Society.

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Diplomats p Meet the people uniting nations

HE Jeon Jaeman

The ambassador of the Republic of South Korea talks about his country’s stature in Thailand. Page 108 TheBigChilli 107


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HE Jeon Jaeman|Republic of South Korea

Cultural exchanges continue to build South Korea’s stature in Thailand

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WITHIN the spacious compound of the South Korean embassy in Bangkok is a massive building that resembles both a palace and a fortress. The Korean-style structure in Huay Kwang District, not far from the Thai Cultural Center, contains the embassy offices presided over by His Excellency Jeon Jaeman. The compound also contains the ambassador’s residence and the chancery building. Altogether it’s a fitting image for a true “Asian tiger.” Ambassador Jeon later explained that the main building of the embassy was designed by late Kim Joongup, a famous architect born in North Korea who went on to design a number of famous monuments, landmarks and buildings in South Korea, officially known as the Republic of Korea (ROK). Mr Jeon is understandably proud of the embassy and he’s happy to be posted in Bangkok. “Thailand and the ROK established diplomatic relations in 1958,” he said. “We opened our first Thai embassy on Silom Road in 1960 and moved a few times to different places. Finally, in 1990, we began to work here. There are more than 20 Korean diplomats working at the embassy, along with more than 40 other staff, both Korean and Thai.” Prior to the interview, condolences were conveyed on the tragic sinking of the MV Sewol ferry on April 16, which claimed so many South Korean lives, to Ambassador Jeon and to Lee Junho, director of the Korean Cultural Center (KCC) in Bangkok.

Ambassador’s background

Mr Jeon Jaeman was born in 1955, two years after the end of the Korean War, in Busan, the second largest city in South Korea on the southeast coast of the peninsula. He studied international relations and Chinese language at university and joined the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MOFA) in 1979 during the era of President Park Chung-hee. Mr Jeon lived in total more than 12 years in so-called “Greater China,” which includes Hong Kong and Taiwan, before leaving the MOFA to pursue other interests in 2009. He retired from government service in 2012 but was asked by the government to return to the diplomatic corps later in the same year and dispatched to Bangkok as ambassador. “Just after my arrival here I was asked by some colleague ambassadors about my previous position. I would answer: ‘Sorry, I was jobless before coming here,’” Mr Jeon said, smiling.

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By Maxmilian Wechsler

Positions Mr Jeon has held with the MOFA include consul at the Korean Consulate General in Hong Kong (1987); assistant secretary, Office of the President (1992); first secretary, Korean embassy in Japan (1995); head of the Asia-Pacific Trade Team, Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade (MOFAT), 1998; counselor, Korean Embassy in the People’s Republic of China (PRC) 2001; senior coordinator for planning and management, MOFAT (2003); consul-general, Korean Consulate General in Guangzhou, PRC (2006); ambassador adviser for International Relations to Gyeonggi-do Province, PRC (2009); and minister of the Korean Embassy in the PRC (2009). “Before leaving the government in the spring of 2012, my position was first deputy director of the National Intelligence Service. My job was to collect intelligence from abroad, analyze it and, if necessary, forward it to the highest level,” said Mr Jeon. Prior to his present assignment he had never been posted to an ASEAN country but had travelled extensively in the region. “My first trip to Thailand was in 1992 when I was going to Cambodia, which at the time had no diplomatic relations with the Republic of Korea. Of course, there was no direct flight from Seoul to Phnom Penh, so I had to change flights in Bangkok and stayed overnight,” said Mr Jeon. “In October 2012 I came here as ambassador. The term is usually three years. Traditionally an embassy has four major functions. The first is to represent the home country and negotiate on its behalf with the host country. The second is promoting ties between the two countries in the fields of economic, social, and cultural fields. “We are trying to widen and deepen the economic cooperation between Korea and Thailand, including helping more Korean companies to come here for business and advising Thai companies with an interest in doing business in Korea. We are also trying to expand exchanges between the two countries in the fields of education, science, culture, sports and so on. “Thirdly, we observe and study the local situation and report our assessments to headquarters in Seoul. Last but not least, we endeavor to ensure the safety of Korean nationals in Thailand, both tourists and residents. “My duties and responsibilities also include the managing of the embassy. This is an administrative job with responsibility over the budget and personnel. “I travel outside Bangkok mainly on official business. I have visited many places in Thailand, including Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, Ayutthaya, Chaiyapum, Khon Kaen, Maha Sarakham,


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Diplomats

HE Jeon Jaeman|Republic of South Korea

Suwon Hwaseong Fortress

Gwanghallu Pavilion

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Director Lee Junho

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Mr Jeon then said that the current strong interest in Korean culture has spurred a desire in many Thai people to learn the Korean language. At present around 60 Korean educators are teaching language classes in Thai high schools and Korean is taught at 40 universities in Thailand. “What really makes me happy is that there are Korean language departments in eight Thai universities. Thai people like Korean music and dramas, such as our TV soap operas. And I am quite surprised that many high-ranking male Thai government officials know so much about Korean soap operas. This is because their wives often follow them.” Asked why he thinks so many Thai women like Korean TV dramas, he smiled and answered: “It must be that they are ‘good stories.’ That means that they are ethically correct – if the characters do something good, they will be rewarded and if they do something bad, they will be punished.” Mr Jeon said that the two countries should take advantage of the close political, social, and cultural ties and put more effort into enhancing economic relations. “What is very important is to induce more investment from Korea to Thailand, and this is not an easy job. “Bilateral trade has increased steadily, and the annual volume has reached US$1.3 billion, but the foreign direct investment (FDI) from Korea in Thailand – about $2.5 billion – is not yet enough, I think, especially when compared with the amount in Vietnam, Indonesia or Malaysia. “I hope the Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA), which is now being discussed between

Night View of Busanhang Port

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Pattaya, Chonburi, Rayong, Hua Hin, Phuket and Nakhon Si Thammarat. “I especially liked Hua Hin, where I enjoyed swimming in the pool of my hotel by the sea and visiting the night market. “Cooperation between Korea and Thailand is already very good but it can be made even better and upgraded. The relationship between our two countries was labeled a ‘strategic partnership’ in 2012. This shows how close it is. “As you may well know, Korean pop culture is very well received in Thailand. In order to meet the growing demand for cultural exchange, we opened the Korean Cultural Center on Sukhumvit Road, between Sois 15 and 17, last July. For the past three years we have held the Korean-Thai Friendship Festival jointly with Thailand’s Ministry of Culture,” said the ambassador. Operated by the South Korean government and overseen by the embassy, KCC is described as a neighborhood community organization in Thailand involved in sharing cultural ideas to create a more intimate friendship between the peoples of Thailand and Korea. The center welcomes every nationality. Its role includes organizing Korean language lessons, cooking, dance, taekwondo, traditional instrument and magic classes. There is also a K-Cinema film night, performance art exhibitions and music concerts, as well as seminars, forums workshops and other cultural activities. The library, multimedia lounge and heritage room also help deepen the knowledge of Korea in Thailand.

Reflection on Gwanghwamun Plaza.


Seonunsa Temple

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Korea and Thailand, and the establishment of the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) next year will contribute to closer economic relations between our two countries. “Korea is importing from Thailand electronic devices, agricultural products like rice and fish, and petrochemical products. Korea exports to Thailand cars, especially Hyundai and Kia, but not so many because Japanese car manufacturers have several plants here. Most of our passenger car exports go to the United States and Europe. “Although the number of cars exported from Korea to Thailand is increasing, the market share is still only 0.4% or so. Korean minivans are becoming very popular in Thailand, especially the model sold in Thailand as Hyundai H1. Some members of the Thai parliament came to our residence in that car, which is called Starex in Korea. “Korean smart phones, especially Samsung, also sell very well in Thailand. I hear that the market share is about 60%. Korean electronics appliances like TV sets and air conditioners are also very popular with Thai consumers,” said the ambassador.

Gyeongbokgung Palace

Misiryeong

“People-to-people exchanges have been flourishing and in recent years we have seen frequent official visits between our two countries. In 2012, former President Lee Myung-bak made an official visit to Thailand, the first visit by a Korean leader in 31 years which was not made in a multilateral setting such as APCE, ASEM, or ASEAN +3. I told some friends this and they said, ‘How can it be so, when we have maintained such a close relationship with Thailand?’ “A year ago, our prime minister attended the Asia Pacific Water Summit in Chiang Mai. Between the presidential visit and the visit by the prime minister, the president of the Korean National Assembly came here and was greeted very warmly in Bangkok as well as in Chiang Mai. “From the Thai side, Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn visited South Korea in April 2013 and former Prime Minister Yingluck visited twice, in March 2012 and in February 2013. Former President of Parliament Somsak Kiatsuranont also visited South Korea twice,” said Mr Jeon. “As for tourism, last year the number of South Korean visitors to Thailand reached 1.3 million, while 370,000 Thai

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Diplomats

HE Jeon Jaeman|Republic of South Korea

Boseong Green Tea Farm

people visited South Korea. You may be surprised to know that there are 312 flights between Korea and Thailand per week. That means on average 45 flights a day. Around 3,500 Koreans are coming to Thailand every day. “We estimate that around 20,000 Koreans live here. Koreans in Thailand behave well – I haven’t heard any complaints about them from the Thai law enforcement authorities. There are around 55,000 Thais living in Korea. Thai restaurants in Korea are getting more popular nowadays,” the ambassador said.

A message to North Korea

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During the interview the subject of South Korea’s neighbor to the north – possibly the world’s most isolated country – was inevitably raised. When asked what he would like to see to improve relations on the Korean peninsula, Mr Jeon replied: “I wish that the North Korean government would abandon its nuclear program and come out into the international community. I want them to adopt the same policy that China did in 1979, followed by Vietnam about 30 years ago. I want them to adopt reform and open policy for the well-being of the people.” As for the relationship with his North Korean counterpart in Thailand, Mr Jeon disclosed that he would occasionally meet the North Korean ambassador (HE An Song Nam, who left his post in Thailand recently) at official events like receptions. “We usually mingled a bit, asking each other ‘how are you’ and so on. Nothing much really.” The long division of the Korean peninsula has led to many differences between the inhabitants. “For one, there is now a difference in how North and South Korean people speak. It was the same almost 70 years ago, but after the division of the peninsula the language has developed in slightly different ways. For the most part we can understand and communicate with one another, but I can easily identify someone from the North by their accent and some words they use.” Mr Jeon has been learning Thai for the past year but finds it very difficult, especially the alphabet. “I wish the Thai alphabet could be simplified so that only one character represents

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one sound,” said Mr Jeon, voicing a sentiment felt by many foreigners. “I don’t think that I have made much progress, but I am still learning four times a week, usually in the morning. “Once I felt comfortable speaking German but I have forgotten most of what I knew. I stayed in Tokyo for about three years some 20 years ago and took Japanese lessons three times a week every week until I left. I still remember some. “I can speak and write Chinese. I am more comfortable when I speak Chinese than when I speak English.” Asked why his name is spelled in different ways in the local press, the ambassador pointed out that in Korea the surname is placed first and the given name second, as in this article. Mr Jeon, who is married and has two daughters, said that what he likes most about Thailand is “Thai smiles, in other words, the kindness and hospitality of the people. Bangkok is a good place where I can enjoy swimming outside all year round. I like to play the board game ‘Baduk’ when I have free time,” he added. He has two favourite Korean restaurants in Bangkok. One is called Seorabol, on Sukhumvit Soi 26, and the other is Myeong Ga, located what is known as ‘Korean Town,’ at Sukhumvit Plaza, Soi 12. He remembers fondly an early experience when he found himself about ten minutes late for a courtesy call to a very high official. “I was at a loss on what to say and apologized profusely. However, he said, ‘Don’t mention it. Here we can wait at least 30 minutes because everybody knows that the roads in Bangkok are very congested.’ This made me feel so comfortable. “I also cannot forget the spectacular beauty of the flying lanterns in Chiang Mai and small candle lotus leaves on the Chao Phraya River in front of Asiatique during the Loy Krathong Festival. “As for my biggest disappointment here, it was when the water management project was shelved due to the political turmoil. I was disappointed since it would be a big project through which the Korean company K-Water could contribute to the reconstruction of Thailand. I hope the project will be resumed after the new government is formed.”


HUA HIN

Cha Am • Pranburi • And beyond...

Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi launches a new ‘spa and stay’ deal. Page 114.

News & deals

Hua Hin’s hottest promotions and deals await inside Page 114

Play a round

Banyan Golf Club to host two special tournaments this month Page 115

Dining out

Enjoy Japanese dining with a twist at Hagi Restaurant Page 118 TheBigChilli 113


Hu aH i n

N ews and Deals

Family fun at Amari Hua Hin FOR a family getaway that won’t break the bank, the Amari Hua Hin is offering a great deal this month. Valid until Jun 30, the hotel’s ‘Thai Summer Family Fun Package’ offers rates starting from B3,500++ per night, inclusive of daily breakfast, one day passes for Water Black Mountain Water Park, and more benefits. Deal applies to a stay of two or more consecutive nights. ☎ 032 616 600 :amari.com/amarihuahin

Spa and stay at Villa Maroc NO weekend escape is complete without a thorough pampering. Visit the Villa Maroc Resort & Spa Pranburi and, all this month, you’ll find a ‘Secret of Spa Indulgence Package’ offering rates starting at B5,800 per night for two, inclusive of breakfast, original ‘Energizing Hamman’ spa treatment, and a Moroccan-style afternoon tea service. ☎ 032 630 771 :villamarocresort.com

Gourmet food and classical music at the Dusit THE seventh edition of Dusit Thani Hua Hin’s popular Culinary Classics event will be held on Jun 6 in the hotel’s Napalai Ballroom. Italian violinist Grazia Raimondi and cellist Luigi Piovano will team up with violinist Tasana Nagavajara and Thai pianist Pornphan Banternghansa to perform Mahler’s Piano Quartet, Brahms’ Piano Quartet in G Minor, and Beethoven’s Duo for Violin and Cello. B500 per person (ticket only), B1,400 per person for ticket and post-concert Thai dinner buffet, and B1,600 per person for ticket and post-concert four-course Italian dinner set.

A culinary tour of Thailand Dune offers new two-night deal BOUTIQUE hotel Dune is offering a ‘Go Green’ package deal until the end of July, with prices ranging from B7,600 for two nights in a Superior room to B16,000 for two nights in a Pool Villa Suite. Rates include daily breakfast for two. ☎ 032 515 051-3 :dunehuahin.com

HIGHLIGHTS of Thailand’s culinary compass will be served up all this month at Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa’s Inazia Restaurant, where the chefs will use ingredients from the North, South, East and West to prepare dishes typical to each region. Northern style Pork curry, Southern style Grilled chicken, and Eastern style Steamed ruby fish with spicy sauce are just some of the options on offer. ☎ 032 708 000 ext. 4303 :sheraton.com/huahin

BBQ night at Banyan The Resort FLAME-grilled meats and seafood will be the flavour of the evening on June 18 at Banyan The Resort’s Splash Pool Bar, which will complement the dinner with live music and special performances (B850 per person with a complimentary glass of beer). The resort has also introduced a new Afternoon Tea set at its Lemongrass Restaurant, offering a choice of premium teas, sandwiches and scones at just B550 for two. ☎ 032 538 888 :banyanthailand.com

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Hilton opens new MICE facilities AFTER undergone extensive renovations, Hilton Hua Hin’s Grand Ballroom and MICE facilities are now open and ready for meetings, conferences, corporate events, and every other type of shindig you can think of. Besides the Grand Ballroom which can accommodate up to 600 people, the hotel also offers four Function rooms that can cater up to 60 delegates each. ☎ 032 538 999 :huahin.hilton.com

Seafood by the beach THE delightful Rest Detail Hotel Hua Hin has introduced a new ‘Siam Fish Menu’ at its popular Rest Scene Restaurant. Offering fresh fish cooked in a myriad of mouth-watering ways, the menu is available daily, 11am-10pm. ☎ 032 547 733 :restdetailhotel.com

Strip_AD_Captain Doug's_Feb14_M4.indd 1

Golf tournaments at Banyan Golf Club TWO special events await golfers at Banyan Golf Club Hua Hin this month. Teeing off on Jun 16, 17, and 20 is the Centara World Masters Golf Championship (visit Golf Asian to book your place). And on Jun 18, starting at noon, is the Power Tee Competition. B2,100 inclusive of caddie and snacks following the game. ☎ 032 616 200 :banyanthailand.com

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Review

The Coffee Club Hua Hin

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Enjoy good food, great service, and excellent coffee in the heart of Naresdamri Road

NO doubt about it, Australia’s largest home-grown cafe group, The Coffee Club, has been a runaway success in Thailand. Since opening its flagship branch around two years ago at Major Ekkamai in Bangkok, the chain has gone on to open in key areas all around the kingdom and now operates 14 cafes here. Hua Hin’s first branch, which opened just last month, follows the brand’s wellhoned formula to a tee, and therefore offers the same range of UTZ certified coffee (beans sourced from farms using sustainable methods in South America, Asia and Africa) and extensive selection of comfort food that you’d find at any The Coffee Club branches in Thailand. This means that those all-day

breakfasts which have been such a big hit in Bangkok can now be guzzled right here in Hua Hin: Pancakes, Eggs Benedict, The classic big breakfast – all washed down with a Latte, Espresso, or however else you like to take your coffee. With all recipes honed by The Coffee Club’s Executive Chef James Bradbury, the regular a la carte menu is loaded with tasty treats too – all made with the finest ingredients available. Highlights of the European-inspired section include Caesar salad with grilled chicken (B250); Chicken Schnitzel with Italian slaw (B290); Poached eggs with avocado, bacon, tomato and rocket salad (B190); Wild salmon served with mashed potato (B340); and the hunger-

The Coffee Club, Naresdamri Rd (in front of the Hilton Hua Hin). Open daily 7am-Midnight.

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busting Strong Arm Angus beef burger topped with cheese and bacon (B290). Rounding out the menu are Kids’ meals, Gourmet sandwiches, Grilled meats, Pasta dishes, Asian favourites (try the Pad Thai gung. B140) and Desserts. Drinks and food can be enjoyed outside on the terrace (the perfect place to slurp The Coffee Club’s popular Iced Caramel Latte. B110), or indoors in air-conditioned comfort. Wherever you choose to sit, the atmosphere is relaxed, warm and inviting – just like any good cafe should be. Free WiFi and car parking are offered to all guests. Wine, beer and cocktails are also available.

☎ 032 532 055 :facebook.com/thecoffeeclubthailand



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Review

Hagi

Quirky cooking shows and innovative cuisine make this Japanese restaurant at Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin a must visit

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A BLAST of flames, a duck-like quack, and a rapid drumming of spatulas on the grill – meals at Hagi Japanese Restaurant’s Teppanyaki tables are anything but ordinary. Where else in Hua Hin can you watch a chef juggle eggs and then catch them in his pocket, or arrange fried rice into the shape of a heart and then make it beat, or spin utensils around on his fingers with the dexterity of a circus-clown? Gimmicky it may be, but it’s all implemented with such aplomb by the performing chefs, that you can’t help but be delighted by their culinary show. What’s more, starting at just B960 per Teppanyaki set (includes sushi and sashimi, vegetable soup, roasted sautéed vegetables, fried rice, scallops, tuna akami, pork chop, and tiger prawns) it’s superb value too. In fact, for just B2,000 per set, you’ll also receive fresh lobster and prime cuts of sirloin steak. All grilled to

perfection before your very eyes. Though extremely popular, the Teppanyaki tables (two in total) make up just a small part of Hagi’s operations. There’s also an extensive outdoor dining area, a lounge terrace with large couches, and an indoor dining room for sultry nights that require air-con. Here, you can indulge in Hagi’s carefully constructed a la carte menu, which features authentic Japanese cuisine made using the freshest local and imported ingredients, as well as a selection of western dishes given a contemporary Japanese spin. The Gyuniku Nikomi (B450++) features slow-cooked Australian beef short rib coated with “Miso” BBQ sauce, and it’s a thoroughly delicious melding of two culinary cultures. The Yaki Maguro (B390++) is just as good, featuring pan-fried tuna on crisp

Hagi, Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin, 1 Damnernkasem Rd.

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vegetables, sanshow pepper butter. And we can’t get enough of Hagi’s signature Spicy tuna roll (B280++), which, like all good Thai-inspired food, packs a pleasant tongue-tingling punch. Similar experimentation flows into Hagi's drinks menu, which, alongside a good selection of sakes, wines and local beers, also offers a range of innovative cocktails such as the Sakura (a refreshing and slightly spicy concoction blending midori, gin, lime juice, grenadine syrup, and wasabi. B250++), and Cool Ocean (blue curacao, gin, lychee juice and fresh lemon. B250++). A must try is the Sparkling jelly sake (B320++ in peach and mixed berry flavours) – a viscous, fizzy, fruity and deceptively boozy treat, which acts as the perfect ending to any meal at this vibrant restaurant. Hagi is open daily, 5pm-Midnight.

☎ 032 512 021-38 : chbr@chr.co.th :centarahotelsresorts.com



Accommodation

Hua Hin Where to sleep The Cape Nidhra Hotel, Hua Hin ■ Located in the heart of Hua Hin right next to the beach, this luxury hotel combines comfort and convenience for the perfect escape. Each suite is well-furnished in stylish décor and each has its own private swimming pool. General facilities include a fitness center, a swimming pool, steam rooms, spa, library, and meeting functions. Rocks Restaurant serves up a wide range of international dishes and local favourites, while the beachside bar, and the cigar and whisky bar, mix up some excellent cocktails.

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa ■ This imposing resort in the centre of Hua Hin is regarded as one of the best family hotels in the region. Accommodation features comfortable rooms and suites, providing guests with a living space that exhibits contemporary Thai design flair and good in-room amenities. There are also 11 Spa Suites available. The awardwinning White Lotus on the 17th floor of the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa offers sky-high dining at down to earth prices. 33 Naresdamri Road. Tel: 032 538 999

97/2 Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 516 600

Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas Hua Hin ■ Set within 13 hectares of landscaped gardens, the property dates back to 1923 and is one of Southeast Asia’s most renowned hotels. The luxurious colonial-era beachfront resort features 207 beautifully appointed guestrooms and suites, each one offering comfort and convenience. The Pool Villas include four Deluxe Spa Villas with queen sized twin bed, lounging area, bathroom with rain shower, and oversized Jacuzzi bathtub. Refined dining is available at Sala Thai, Hagi, the Railway Restaurant, and Palm Terrace. Guests can unwind in the Elephant Bar. 1 Damnernkasem Road, Hua Hin. Tel: 032 512 021-38

Evason Hua Hin and Six Senses Spa ■ This resort-spa is situated at the heart of 20 acres of beautifully landscaped gardens and faces the Gulf of Thailand. Pool villas and guest rooms are connected by a series of wooden walkways that meander between lush greenery. This is a retreat for those seeking time to relax and recharge. In The Restaurant guests can sip exotic cocktails, ice-cold beer or boutique wines while watching chefs cook and construct creative appetizers. The award-winning Earth Spa is one of the most visually striking in Thailand. 9/22 Moo 5 Paknampran Beach, Pranburi. Tel: 032 632 111 120

TheBigChilli

Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi ■ Inspired by Morocco’s distinctive architecture, Villa Maroc combines Thai beachside living and service with some of the most luxurious furnishings from the North African Kingdom, making it a unique addition to Southeast Asia’s accommodation scene. The resort is located in Pranburi approximately 30 kilometers south of Hua Hin town. You can tuck into European, Middle Eastern and Thai cuisine at Casablanca, enjoy cocktails and shisha pipes at the Sisha Bar, relax in bliss at Sherazade Hammam & Spa, and much more. 165/3 Moo 3 Paknampran, Pranburi, Tel: 032 630 771 email: rsvn@villamarocresort.com

Baan Bayan

■ This fine resort features one of Hua Hin’s finest examples of early 1900’s architectural style. The beachfront resort has been faithfully restored to its former glory by the family who once lived there. Guests staying at Baan Bayan can experience the glory of a bygone era in its colonial style structure, yet without sacrificing the modern day comforts and amenities. It has 21 rooms comprising of three suites, 10 sea view rooms and 16 rooms with views of the courtyard or tropical garden. 119 Petchkasem Road. Tel: 032 533 544



Accommodation

Hua Hin Where to eat Papa John’s Grill Restaurant & Beer Garden

La Paillotte

■ In business for over 13 years, this popular diner has established a large and loyal clientele of locals and returning holidaymakers. The secret to the restaurant’s success is the owner’s welcoming nature and an extensive menu of good honest well cooked food. Papa John’s is a spacious open-sided restaurant with a bar area ideal for pre-dinner drinks while you survey the excellent selection of dishes on the menu. Try the fillet, T-bone or rib-eye, each very reasonably priced. The ideal venue for European comfort food and a drink with friends.

■ This charming French restaurant is the ideal place to enjoy an evening of fine food in relaxed surroundings. The fresh and colourful décor brings to mind citrus-scented Mediterranean evenings, as do the excellent range of aperitifs, wines, beers and digestifs. Although the culinary roots of La Paillote’s cuisine are classically French, the kitchen team enhances a rich culinary tradition with contemporary touches. An a la carte menu and nine set menus are available. Open daily from 11am till late.

1/54 Soi Moobaan Khao Takiab, Nong Kae, Hua Hin Tel: 032 514 295

174/1 Naresdamri Road, 77110 Tel: 032 521025

Chom Talay

■ This delightful beachfront restaurant is a great spot for alfresco dining. Pushed up against the water’s edge it has an easy going charm, good food and drink. The menu features a wide selection of delicious seafood dishes. Of note is the stir fried mud crab with X.O. sauce. A piquant tom yam with fresh prawns, pineapple and the flesh of young coconut offers an interesting variation on a classic dish. Open from 11am till 10pm. Phetkasem Road, Hua Hin, (next to the airport). Tel: 032 547 253-4

White Lotus

■ The Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa’s signature Chinese restaurant serves up a wide range of authentic Szechuan and Cantonese dishes, including a signature Roast Peking Duck with pancakes, which is a must try. Factor in the restaurant’s elegant contemporary design and breathtaking views of the ocean and mountains, and it’s no surprise that it never fails to impress first time visitors. Dinner is served Tues-Sun 6pm-10.30pm; Dim Sum Lunch on Sat, Sun and Public Holidays from 11.30am-2.30pm. Tel: 032 538 999 Email: fb.huahin@hilton.com

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Mcfarland House

■ FAMOUS for its history, McFarland House is a two-storey open-sided traditional Thai house set on the beachfront. This casual bar and dining pavilion offers snacks, Thai and Western cuisines served tapas-style and element set menus. A wide range of fresh fruit juices, cocktails and wines by the glass are available. The relaxed and chilled-out atmosphere is complemented by background lounge music. McFarland House is also an excellent choice for Sunday Brunch. 91 Hua Hin, Khao Takiap Road Tel: 03 252 1234 www.huahin.regency.hyatt.com

The Veranda Grill ■ The Veranda Grill offers both a relaxed outdoor atmosphere on the beachfront, as well as an indoor dining experience, featuring exceptional views across the Gulf of Thailand. The setting is perfect for sampling some of the sea’s freshest delights. You can choose from a wide selection of authentic Thai cuisine along with continental dishes, all of which are carefully prepared to the chef ’s exacting standards. Veranda Lodge, Hua Hin Beach, 113 Soi Hua Hin 67, Petch Kasem Road, Prachuab 77110 Tel: 032 533678 email: huahin@verandalodge.com www.verandalodge.com



Tr a vel

D ea ls and Promotion s

s ’ e t a M s rate

• Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok: Until the end of October, a

family r o s d n Frie land? i a h T g visitin now about k Let them e deals thes

‘Chatrium Hot Deals’ promo offers rates starting at B2,789++ per room per night, inclusive of daily breakfast for two, in-room WiFi, and welcome fruits. ☎ 02 307 8888 :chatrium.com/chatrium_hotel

• Blue Marine Resort & Spa Phuket: Until June 30, rates start at B2,400++ for a Superior Ocean Facing room.

☎ 076 370 400 :centarahotelresorts.com

• GLOW Trinity Silom: Until the end of 2014, the ‘Stay 3 Nights and Save 15%’ package offers rates starting at B2,550 per night for a Superior room with free WiFi. Promotion is also available for Deluxe room and Premier room categories. ☎ 02 231 5050 :glowbyzinc.com/silom • Ramada Khao Lak Resort:

Until Oct 31, the hotel’s ‘Summer Escape’ offers its Deluxe Oasis room for B2,400 per room per night and Deluxe Jacuzzi for B3,000 per room per night, inclusive of daily breakfast for two and WiFi. Valid only for Thai residents and holders of valid work permits. ☎ 076 427 777 (must quote PAM01 when booking) :ramadakhaolak.com

• Hua Chang Heritage Hotel Bangkok: Until Oct 31, the hotel’s ‘Suite

Dream Package’ offers a two-night stay in its suite room for B7,500 per couple. The package includes breakfast for two, dinner set for two, late check-out, one-way airport transfer, and more. ☎ 02 217 0777 :huachangheritagehotel.com

• Soneva Kiri: A ‘Green Season Escape’ deal offers the following rates: B27,700 per night for Bayview Pool Villa Suite, B35,400 per night for Cliff Pool Villa Suite, B45,500 per night for Oceanfront Pool Villa Suite and B58,500 for a Two-Bedroom Cliff Pool Villa Suite. Packages include daily breakfast, a 60-minute spa treatment for two, a group yoga lesson on the beach, and more. The deal is valid until the end of October, and you must book two consecutive nights or more to qualify. ☎ 039 619 800 :soneva.com/soneva-kiri

• The Sukhothai Bangkok:

Here’s one for solo travelers. Until Sept 30, the hotel’s ‘Sweet Deal’ package offers rates at B6,990++ per room per night for an Executive Suite, B7,990++ per room per night for a Deluxe Suite, and B10,990 per room per night for a Garden Suite. Package includes daily breakfast for one, WiFi, and late check-out. Book three consecutive nights to receive a one-way airport transfer. ☎ 02 344 8888 :sukhothai.com

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• AKARYN Samui Resort and Spa: A ‘Celebration Deal’ marking the hotel’s second anniversary offers rates ranging from B6,500 per night for a Pool Suite to B16,000 per night for a two-bedroom Pool Villa. Stay three nights or more to receive late check in and late check out, daily gourmet breakfast, return transfer from Samui International Airport, and more. Valid until July 14. ☎ 02 514 8112 :akaryn.com


COAST CO PATTAYA

Kok Chang • Wong Amat • Jomtien • Bang Saray • Sattahip • Rayong Garden Cliff Pattaya offers exclusive online deals this month. Page 126.

News & Deals

The Eastern Seaboard’s hottest dining and hotel promotions Page 126

Family fun

Celebrate International Father’s Day at Oceana Restaurant Page 126

Dining out

Enjoy tasty Thai seafood by the beach at Moom Talay Page 128 TheBigChilli 125


Pa tt a ya

N ews and Deals

Mango festival brings the flavour

Bubbly combination at Horizon HILTON Pattaya’s stylish rooftop bar, Horizon, is always a good spot for sundowners and snacks with friends. Visit this month and you can sample the bar’s new ‘Oysters & Bubbles’ promotion, available daily from 6pm-1am, featuring a set of six oysters with two glasses of sparkling wine at B1,350, and a set of 12 oysters with two glasses of sparkling wine at B1,950. ☎ 038 253 000 :3.hilton.com/en/hotels/thailand/hilton-pattaya-BKKHPHI/index.html

SWEET and savoury dishes made using fresh mangoes are the flavour of the next two months at Cape Dara Resort Pattaya’s Radius restaurant, which is offering a special menu featuring dishes such as Tiger prawn with mango salsa, Smoked salmon and mango wasabi, and Spicy mango salad with seafood. Dishes start at B155. ☎ 038 933 888 :capedarapattaya.com

Garden Cliff offers exclusive online deals GARDEN Cliff Resort Pattaya is offering online only discounts on its Deluxe Pool Access rooms and Junior Suites. Valid until the end of June, and available for booking only via gardencliffpattaya.com, the promotions include either a complimentary set dinner for two, or a one-hour massage for two, depending on your preference. ☎ 038 259 333 :gardencliffpattaya.com

Meaty deal at Havana IMPORTED ‘Jack’s Creek’ Australian ribeye steak is the star of the culinary show at Havana Bar & Terrazo, Holiday Inn Pattaya, this month. Served with chunky chips, a choice of sauces (classic béarnaise, creamy pepper, red wine mushroom), and a medley of veggies, it’s a real meaty treat. Great value at B1,200 per portion. ☎ 038 725 555 :ihg.com/holidayinn/hotels/us/ en/pattaya/pyxpa/hoteldetail

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Father’s Day treat LOOKING for a good venue to celebrate International Father’s Day? Check out Oceana restaurant at Centara Grand Phratamnak Pattaya. On Sun Jun 15, the restaurant will offer its sumptuous lunch buffet at B1,700 per person (includes free-flow non-alcoholic beverages). What’s more, add B900 per person and you’ll receive a glass of Prosecco plus free-flow selected wines and beers. Served from noon to 3pm. ☎ 038 306 337 ext. 535 :centarahotelsresorts. com/centaragrand/cgpx



Pa ttay a D ini ng out

Review

Moom Talay

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Serving tasty Thai seafood right next to the beach

SEAFOOD restaurants in Pattaya are as ubiquitous as seashells on a beach, and just as searching for the perfect, unbroken conch can take several hours, seeking out a decent eatery you want to return to here can take several days. Visit Moom Talay Thai Restaurant, though, and you’ll find it’s not only an 'unbroken conch,' but actually a giant clam of a discovery – that is, one of the best places in town for enjoying some delicious Thai seafood at great value for money. Located overlooking the sands on Beach Road, Moom Talay is operated by Khun Naiyana, whose hubby, Luca Marchetti, runs the popular Toscana Italian restaurant located next door. A formidable culinary team, the duo opened Moom Talay seven years ago simply as a

hobby restaurant, but thanks to its focus on fresh, local ingredients, not to mention hearty portions at reasonable prices, it has become a thriving business much loved by Thais and foreigners alike. The menu is swimming with all kinds of deep sea delights prepared in numerous mouth-watering ways. Sweet-tangy flavours abound in the crunchy and crispy Fluffy catfish served with spicy and sour mango salad (B250); meat slips from the bone in the Sea bass with fish sauce (B420); and a delightful spicy kick is delivered with every slurp of the Spicy lemongrass and basil soup with seafood (B220). The Stir fried crab with black pepper (B490) further stokes the pleasant piquant fire. If you prefer your meat from the land, the restaurant also has plenty of

Beach Road (between Soi 6 and 7)

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other options to choose from, including a particularly good Quail fried with black pepper (B290), which boasts a gameywild flavour tempered with peppers. Dessert lovers, meanwhile, will be delighted with the range of Thai and European sweets on offer, such as Sago and black beans in coconut cream (B120) and Chocolate mousse (B150). Borrowing design influences from its sister restaurant, Moom Talay has a rustic interior very much styled on an Italian trattoria (think exposed brickwork, vintage posters, a warm colour scheme of browns, beiges and terracotta, and even a Vespa parked inside), and as a result boasts a wonderfully laid back atmosphere just perfect for whiling away an afternoon or evening in the company of family or friends.

☎ 038 362 370 :tirreno@ptty2.loxinfo.co.th





Just for fun

Entertainment|Jokes

Humour Bon mots from the mouth of a pro. This month: Tim Vine

On shopping

On health

• I bought some Armageddon cheese today, and it said on the packet ‘Best Before End...’ • I went into a shop and I said, “Can someone sell me a kettle.” The bloke said ‘Kenwood.’ I said, ‘Where is he?’ • So I went to buy a watch, and the man in the shop said ‘Analogue.’ I said, ‘No, just a watch.’ • I went to the record shop and I said, “What have you got by The Doors?” He said, ‘A bucket of sand and a fire blanket!’

• So I went to the dentist. He said, ‘Say Aaah.’ I said, ‘Why?’ He said, ‘My dog’s died.’ • I went to the doctor. I said to him, ‘I’m frightened of lapels.’ He said, ‘You’ve got cholera.’ • So I said to a Scotsman, ‘did you have terrible spots as a kid?’ He said ‘ac ne.’ • I went to the doctor and he said, ‘You’ve got hypochondria.’ I said, ‘Not that as well!’

On making calls

Random thoughts

• So I rang up British Telecom and said, ‘I want to report a nuisance caller.’ He said, ‘Not you again.’ • I rang up my local swimming baths. I said, ‘Is that the local swimming baths?’ He said, ‘It depends where you’re calling from.’ • So I got home and the phone was ringing. I picked it up and said, ‘Who’s speaking please?’ And a voice said, ‘You are.’ • I phoned the local ramblers club today and this bloke just went on and on.

• Crime in multi-storey car parks. That is wrong on so many different levels. • Conjunctivitis.com – that’s a site for sore eyes. • I’ve got a friend who has got a butler whose left arm is missing – serves him right. • It’s strange isn’t it, you stand in a library and go “Aaaaaargh” and everyone stares at you. Do the same thing on an airplane and everyone joins in.

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