The Bangkok BigChilli Sept 14 by The BigChilli Co., Ltd.

FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT IN BANGKOK

September 2014 08 INSIGHT News, letters, gossip and more 14 EXPAT ENTREPRENEUR AWARDS Recent nominations in focus 22 CITY OF NOISE Annoying, unhealthy and inescapable, noise levels in Bangkok are on the increase 27 GOURMET A round up of all the best restaurant deals and gourmet news in Bangkok 28 MICHELIN MAGIC Italian chef Matteo Metullio brings his award-winning cuisine to Bangkok 49 EXPAT WOMEN Health, shopping, people, advice and ﬁction 50 FROM ACORNS TO OAKS How British expat Alison Owen helps children with learning difﬁculties to bloom 68 PARK LIFE Swap concrete and cacophony for grass and serenity by visiting one of these lush oases in Bangkok 77 WHAT’S ON Discover what to do this month with our round up of art, performances, sport and more 89 SOCIAL Last month’s best events in pictures 105 DIPLOMATS Belgium continues to build on long-standing ties with Thailand 111 HUA HIN Deals, news and dining 125 PATTAYA Find out what’s hot on the Eastern Seaboard

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Expat Entrepreneur Awards Night 2014 : October 14 at the Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 All nominees invited!

No longer blinkered by big media

IN the past, people would generally rely on one source for their news – and believe what major companies and organizations like CNN, BBC, The Times and Newsweek told them. That’s all changed, of course, with the advent of the internet and social media. Now we have a plethora of possibilities to “catch up with news.” And the presentation style of these numerous outlets is well suited to today’s busy world; no need to wait around for an update – news these days is “on tap.” While it could be argued that the quality of what is broadcast by some media is suspect, the upside is that we now enjoy access to a much broader range of viewpoints. All the major news sources have their own agenda and put their own spin on major stories, of course, evidenced by the different ways Fox News and Al Jareeza, for example, are likely to present a story about the conflict in the Middle East. The same could be said of BBC, Press TV and RT reporting on the situation in Ukraine. Each approaches the subject from a different angle. This unprecedented division of news sources is to be welcomed most heartily, for it allows us the opportunity to form a much better balanced opinion on all kinds of topics. Today’s multi-media access also illustrates how blinkered – and even manipulated – we were in the past when we relied on that single source of information.

Banks fined again – but who really suffers?

AN item recently appeared in a British newspaper that may have been missed by millions of people whose lives were affected by its contents. The article referred to talks between the British bank HSBC and US financial regulators over a payment of up to US$1.6 billion to settle an American sub-prime mortgage lawsuit. HSBC is accused of misleading investors over the value of securities based on sub-prime loans. According to the Sunday Times, the securities were sold to Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, two of America’s biggest state-backed investment companies. Now, it was the selling of these sub-prime mortgages that led to one of the worst economic

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downturns in recent history, and caused untold misery to those who lost their homes as a result. HSBC, which was fined US$1.9 billion in 2012 for laundering drug money, is not alone in this scandal – the Royal Bank of Scotland and Nomura are amongst those also implicated. Goldman Sachs has already settled. So, these banks will simply cough up a relatively small sum compared to their overall earnings and that will be the end of it. No arrests, no further charges, no personal responsibility. Banks seem to hold a privileged position, above the law and beyond reproach. And while they enjoy record profits, the people whose lives they wrecked will be left to ponder the real meaning of justice.

Not another investment scheme, please

AFTER the LM scandal, in which expatriate investors lost up to US$12 million in a collapsed Australian property fund, you’d have thought that companies seeking investors in projects that also promise unrealistic earnings would have steered well clear of Thailand for a while. Not so. One newcomer is hawking an “alternative” investment based on new technology that provides huge improvements in crop yields. Returns of 14-18% are being offered. Perhaps they really have found a way to grow money on trees. Is it really necessary to repeat that old warning? OK, one more time: If it sounds too good to be true, then it is too good to be true.

We need space, not promises

IN this issue of the BigChilli, we are highlighting some of the parks and open spaces to be found and enjoyed in Bangkok. All are a delight in their own way, each is increasingly appreciated by the people of this crowded city. But as the population grows, there’s less recreational space to go around. Despite promises of five additional parks by the BMA several years ago, none have so far appeared. Wouldn’t it be nice therefore if the Governor lived up to his promise and assigned more state-owned land for the benefit of the Bangkok populace? It would win him a lot of votes.

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Medical Miracles Making Smiles! You can bring the smile of a lifetime to a child’s face for as little as 15,000 Baht with a donation to Operation Smile Thailand. We are part of a worldwide medical charity that provides free reconstructive surgery to children born with disfiguring facial deformities. Although a relatively inexpensive & simple surgery, it remains out of reach for the poorer families living in rural Thailand. With your help we can reach out a hand and touch a heart. We guarantee that by changing a child’s life, you will change your own. Please join us now.

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We are now on Twitter. Find out what’s happening around town, which events to attend, parties to be seen at, and read all the juicy gossip! Follow us at ‘TheBigChilliMag’ No part of this magazine may be reproduced or transmitted in any form without prior written permission from The BigChilli Co., Ltd. The opinions and views of the writers are not necessarily the views of the publishers. All details are deemed correct at the time of print, the publisher, the editor, employees and contributors can not be held responsible for any errors, inaccuracies or omissions that may occur. The editor reserves the right to accept, reject or amend any submitted artwork, photographs, illustrations and manuscripts. The BigChilli welcomes unsolicited contributions but assumes no responsibility for the safe-keeping or return of such materials damaged or lost in transit.

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Insight

Inbox|Have your say

Inbox CATCHING CRIMINALS IN THE ACT ■ THE best way to catch the perpetrators of druggings and muggings (‘Drugged and mugged in Pattaya.’ Read online at bit.ly/1qYFqLV) is for undercover police to set up a few stalls along Sukhumvit. Every time a buyer purchases sleeping pills, a surveillance team could then follow the buyer and, if possible, slip a small GPS device in their pocket. Once the buyer is away from the stall, let’s say walking around Pattaya, the police could then use an undercover foreigner to approach the buyer and try to get them to go to a hotel room with them. This room could be set up with hidden cameras and mics. Here you will record the drug being slipped into a drink and, bingo, you’ve got your man or woman. John Doe, via thebigchilli.com

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DRUGS BROUGHT INTO QUESTION

■ VALIUM and Xanax to drug someone? (‘Drugged and mugged in Pattaya.’ Read online at bit. ly/1qYFqLV) Seems like a hard task if you ask me. First, the 10mg Valium pills sold here in blister packs are mostly copies and usually don’t contain more than 3-7 mg diazepam. Second, both Hoffman-La Roche originals and generics are BLUE. They taste bitter and horrible. And most people would need at least 100 mg plus loads of alcohol to pass out like you mention. Xanax is pink, which would perhaps make it easier to mix into someone’s drink, but it tastes even more horrible than Valium. Most are sold in 0.5mg pills and not the 2mg pills we have in Europe. Most people would need at least 4-8mg to lose control completely, and most people can take lots of benzodiazepines before they become toxic. Mixed with alcohol there is always a risk, but not nearly as high as with the old barbiturates. Today I mostly use Valium for long bus rides or flights. I can easily consume five 10mg pills alongside a few drinks without starting to act weird. I just can’t see how these pills could ever be used as date rape style drugs... Jiab, via thebigchilli.com

FINED FOR BEING FOREIGN? ■ I AM a smoker and always try to follow the rules about smoking in each country I visit (‘Back on Bangkok’s streets – the ‘cigarette police’ who target foreign litter bugs.’ Read online at: bit.ly/1rvVO88). In Singapore, for example, you can only smoke in allocated areas, which I did. When I was in Bangkok one day, though, I couldn’t find any designated smoking areas – and the city lacked bins – so I went to where a group of Thai people were smoking and had my cigarette with them. Once I finished, I did what they did and put my cigarette out on the floor. I was immediately apprehended by a Thai ‘police officer’ who said I had to go to his office to pay a fine. I admit I was ‘littering.’ However, out of the group of seven people I was smoking with, I was the only person he followed up with. And I was the only foreigner in the group. Olivia, via thebigchilli.com

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CAUSE FOR INVESTIGATION ■ THE more I got through the article, the more I wanted to leave a comment at the end (‘Showtime on Sukhumvit.’ Read online at: bit.ly/SBnFqv). Live and let live, I say. But since this article is a trashing of immoral behaviour, Maxmilian Wechsler should investigate backstreet brothels with children that cater to 99.9% Thai men...Now that would be something. Jay, via thebigchilli.com

Insight

News|Local interest

Expat suggestions for the Government ■ THE National Council for Peace and Order (NCPO) has made several moves to get the foreign community’s ideas and suggestions on the way Thailand should be run. While recognizing that the vast majority of foreigners living here do so by choice, the BigChilli would like to submit the following list of suggestions that would make life in Thailand even more agreeable.

• End the double pricing system used in national parks and by a number of entertainment venues. Instead, ask ‘wealthy’ foreigners to voluntarily pay more than locals. • Synchronize visas and work permits so they commence from the same date and remain valid for at least a year, or until the holder leaves his or her employment. Also, end the 90-day reporting requirement. • Make it easier for foreigners with a continuous status here to obtain a residence visa and Thai nationality. • Give all non-Thai companies the same privileges accorded to American companies under the US-Thai Treaty of Amity, including the right to hold majority of the shares or the

whole company, branch office or representative office located in Thailand, and to engage in business on the same basis as Thai companies. • Ask Thais not to use the word “farang’ in a pejorative way. • Issue a single card for use on both the BTS Skytrain and the MRT underground system. • Allow foreigners to own land, not more than one rai, for their own use, to be sold to a Thai when they leave Thailand, or to hand it on to a spouse with Thai nationality. • Reduce or standardise the tax on wine (whisky, which is stronger in terms of alcohol, is actually taxed at a lower rate than wine).

St. David’s Society Ball ■ THE 2014 St. David’s Society Ball will be held on Sept 20 at the Amari Watergate Hotel, Petchburi Road. Starting with a cocktail reception at 6.30pm, the event will be fuelled by a five-course dinner (drinks included), and will feature a performance by the Hong Kong Welsh Male Voice Choir, and a DJ spinning hits till late. Tickets: B2,700 per person Tel: 083 293 2169 (Heather Powell)

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HEarD on tHE StrEEt Ladyboys hassle tourists ■ IN an apparent bid to clean up Sukhumvit’s image, the authorities are limiting the hours vendors can now operate on this busy street. Instead of almost 24/7, they are now currently restricted to 6pm and midnight, though time will tell how long those regulations are followed. And they won’t stop tourists and their children being assailed by the sight of sex toys and other dubious products favoured by most vendors during working hours. Not included in this mini-crackdown are the increasing number of ladyboys who hang around in this popular area of Bangkok. While most happily man the beer bars that mysteriously appear night after night, some have taken to harassing solitary tourists, especially near ATM machines. Working in groups, they confuse the fellow with sweet talk and offers of friendship while unloading him of valuable possessions. The odd thing about this kind of nightly spectacle is the total absence of police. Why, we wonder.

Dining group woes ■ STORIES are emerging of a well-known character whose forte is to arrange gourmet dinners for friends, only to overcharge them on the final bill. Not by a small amount, which could be seen as an honest mistake, but by a significant margin. Some of his dining pals have bailed out and joined alternative groups. His entourage, along with his reputation, continues to shrink.

How to stop the smugglers ■ WHIlE the tax on wine in Thailand is probably higher than anywhere else in the world, whisky attracts a lower rate here. Which is odd, considering that whisky has a much higher alcohol content than wine. And that also goes some way to explaining why wine, rather than whisky, has caught the eye of smugglers and their customers. Since the excise and tax departments lose out on every bottled of wine that’s sneaked illegally into the kingdom, some analysts are suggesting that a lower rate of tax on wine would actually earn them greater revenue as smuggling the stuff would become less attractive.

Expat Recognising the foreign community’s contribution to the Thai economy FOR the first time, companies established in Thailand by the country’s expatriate community will be recognized for their creativity, ingenuity, excellence and proven success in The Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014. Supported by The BigChilli magazine in conjunction with BNOW, Bangkok’s networking community group, the Expat Entrepreneur Awards 2014 will highlight the contribution foreign operated businesses make to Thailand’s economy. Awards will be presented in a variety of categories to recognize the amazing diversity of these enterprises. If you are an expatriate entrepreneur with a business story worth telling, or you know someone whose company deserves recognition, please let us know.

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Oc tob Exp er at 14 En at tre the pr R en All emb eur A no ran wa mi dt rd ne Ho s N es inv tel, S ight ite uk 20 d! hu 14 g n i t mv : a r b ess e l e it S C busin ence oi l 18 excel

Entrepreneur Awards 2014

มูลนิธิสรางรอยยิ้ม

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Expat

Insight

Business|Entrepreneurs

Entrepreneur Awards 2014

Recent nominations Nancy Chandler Graphics Nima Chandler, Business partner

■ WHEN Nancy Chandler launched her first map of Bangkok in 1974, she had no idea how many lives she would touch over the next 40 years. Her company, Nancy Chandler Graphics, may still be a very small business, but the American artist’s unique content rich maps have been an invaluable resource to expatriates settling in the country, tourists seeking to make sense of Bangkok and Chiang Mai, and several businesses big and small that have benefitted from mentions on her maps. While paper maps may be a sunset industry, word of mouth and customer loyalty have enabled the company to survive through ups and downs on customer sales only. Now managed by Nancy’s eldest daughter and business partner, Nima Chandler, the company also publishes a similar map of Hanoi and an extensive line of colourful Thai theme greeting cards and gifts. www.nancychandler.net

Arcadius Serge Debono, Founder

■ PASSIONATE about promoting a more active lifestyle amongst kids in Bangkok, Arcadius specializes in designing and building adventure playgrounds and state-ofthe-art mobile play parks. Since launching two years ago, the company has hosted events at international schools and worked with customers such as PTT and Mega Bangna. The company has also created Thailand’s first full-size forest adventure park for kids in Pattaya, and now plans to open its own adventure center in Bangkok where kids and adults will be able to enjoy caving, climbing, skiing, and other fun activities. www.activecity.asia

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Pet Animal Welfare Society (PAWS) Amy Baron, Founder

■ CREATED by Amy Baron, a former SCAD volunteer, in June 2012, PAWS provides spay/ neuter and veterinary health services for stray or community animals, adoption programs, as well as responsible pet ownership education in Bangkok. Working tirelessly 24/7 and without the expectation of recognition or financial reward, Amy relies heavily on volunteers and donations to carry out her mission, and she can often be found at pet events throughout Bangkok where she inspires people to support her cause. Currently working to obtain a full charitable status here in Thailand, she plans to mobilize funds to create new clinics which will provide low or no-cost spay services in under-served areas of Bangkok. Donations to the cause can be made via PAWS’ Facebook page. www.facebook.com/pawsbangkok

Insight

Business|Entrepreneurs

Equator Pure Nature

GoTasty

Peter N. Wainman, Chairman and CEO

Henning Biskopsto, Founder

■ A PROFESSIONAL investor in start-up companies from New York, Peter has been doing business in Asia since 1996 and relocated to Thailand in 2006. In 2010, he had severe allergic reactions to chemicals commonly used in Thailand’s laundry care products. Unable to find suitable natural alternatives, he and his partner decided they would create them themselves. The business began in 2010 as pure research and development with the aim of creating a natural product that could clean as well as synthetic/petro-chemical derived products. Using his researcher experience from MIT and U.C. Berkeley, Peter and his team achieved cleaning as good as or better than chemical products, and filed multiple global patent applications on the technology. Their brand name, Pipper Standard, has been filed in 44 countries worldwide, and the products are all natural, hypo-allergenic certified and fully bio-degradable (more than 90% in one month). The company now offers laundry detergent, fabric softener, floor cleaner, multi-purpose cleaner and dishwashing liquid – all derived from pineapple. www.equatorpurenature.com

■ ONLINE food delivery service GoTasty started in June 2012 in the suburbs of Bangkok with a focus on Thai restaurants and Thai customers, bringing not only top-end foreign international restaurants online, but also collaborating with local Thai street kitchens. As a small company with limited resources, GoTasty has focused its efforts on customer

Monroe Consulting Group John Tolmie, Managing Director

■ MONROE Consulting Group is an executive level recruitment agency operating in predominantly emerging markets. Unlike most direct search companies, the company does not work with hefty upfront retainers, preferring to prove its abilities in a manner that requires the company to be successful. “This has opened up large markets that have always desired the services of a professional executive search agency but were reticent about paying up-front costs,” says John. “Placing quality at the heart of everything we do has also brought financial success with our profit growing from a loss making situation in 2009 to $500,000 profit in 2013, and in Monroe being voted Best Recruitment Company (Under $35M) and Best Overseas Operation at the recent Global Recruiter awards.” www.monroeconsulting.com

service and growing by word of mouth from satisfied customers. “This allows us to spend the extra effort it requires to collaborate with the smaller local vendors and bring them online,” explains Henning. “Not only does this give vendors the opportunity to grow, but it also means average Thai people have cheaper food options, allowing them to not only use food delivery on special occasions, but also as part of their everyday routine.” www.gotasty.co.th

If you are an expatriate entrepreneur with a business stor y worth telling, or you know someone whose company deser ves recognition, please let us know at thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

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Insight

Business|Personality

How tough fatherly advice put Jonathan on the road to hotel success Today, this amiable Yorkshire man is at the top of his profession. As founder and CEO of Thailand-based Absolute Hotel Services Group, together with BTS Group Holdings, Jonathan and his team provide a range of hospitality services, including management and ownership, to more than 50 hotels in six countries. Since its launch in 2008, his company has enjoyed astonishing growth and now boasts three distinct hotel brands – U Hotels & Resorts, Eastin Hotels & Residences, and Eastin Easy – with offices in Thailand, India, Vietnam, Indonesia and Hong Kong. Further expansion is on the cards. Discussions are now being held with hotel owners in Turkey, Laos, Cambodia, Philippines, Oman, Maldives, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Mauritius, Bangladesh and Kenya. The company is also currently working with UK banks to raise a US$450 million fund to invest directly into desirable properties.

■ WHEN Jonathan Wigley’s father thought it was time for his teenage son to get some work experience, he contacted an old hotelier friend in Hong Kong and asked if he had a vacancy for a trainee. His request came with one strict instruction: “No special privileges for Jonathan. Make sure he works hard, just like everybody else.” Over the next 11 months, Jonathan was assigned to some of the most grueling and humbling of jobs at the Excelsior, one of Hong Kong’s most famous hotels, from cleaning guest rooms and toilets to washing dishes in the staff canteen. Though hardly the glamorous work experience he thought he’d find in a prestigious hotel, Jonathan nevertheless stuck at it manfully and decided there and then that a career in the hospitality industry was for him. Almost 30 years later, he readily acknowledges the wisdom of his father’s orders. “It was a tough but fun experience,” he says. “And I learned lessons I’ll never forget.”

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Since its launch in 2008, Jonathan’s company has enjoyed astonishing growth and now boasts three distinct hotel brands. Here in Thailand, U and Eastin hotels can be found in all the major destinations, including seven properties in Bangkok. Jonathan’s remarkable career journey from hard-pressed hotel trainee to international executive has occurred entirely in Asia. In 1989, after hotel school in Switzerland, he headed back to Hong Kong where his family was based. His first position was at the Marco Polo, where he learned more of the basics like front office and F&B.

His next move was to Vietnam, working for the Marco Polo and later for the Omni Group. In 1996, Jonathon joined the Delta Grand in Sukhumvit (now the Westin) and two years later was recruited by The Landmark Bangkok where he spent five years as resident manager and director of sales and marketing. From there he joined Minor International, under Bill Heinecke, initially as general manager of the Bangkok Marriott Resort & Spa (now the Anantara Riverside) and subsequently as vice president for all the group’s properties worldwide. In 2008, his career took off in a different direction that would see him hooking up with one of Thailand’s biggest companies. “I was approached by a head hunter to join BTS, owner and operator of the Skytrain, which was planning to set up a hotel company. I told them I wasn’t interested in working as an employee, but I did suggest instead setting up a joint venture – and to my delight, they agreed.” Absolute Hotel Services was thus born, with Jonathan holding a majority stake. The company is now a major player in the hospitality industry with almost 4,000 hotel guestrooms under its control, and a serious competitor to other hotel brands that have been around much longer. Jonathan reckons that success in the hotel business depends on many factors, including “the personal touch.” “As a hotel operator and manager, you have to be flexible and approachable with regard to your partners and hotel owners. I make sure that every single one of them has my mobile number and can contact me at any time. It’s their money and investment after all, so we have to be careful and make ourselves available to them at all times.” What’s the group’s ultimate goal? “To be recognized as an Asian brand that can thrive inside and outside of Asia,” says Jonathan, adding that with plans to eventually list Absolute Hotels on the stock market, it has first to become Southeast Asia’s most dynamic growth company.”

Insight

Business|Benchmarking

Benchmarking for better business By Pacharee Pantoomano Pfirsch

■ AT the start of my career, I worked in an office furniture shop in the Washington DC area for a number of years doing telemarketing, direct mailing and partnership programs. It taught me to appreciate space planning and furniture design. For home furniture, I really liked the simple and functional designs of a particular Scandinavian furniture chain. So when the retailer entered the Thai market a few years ago, I was delighted. Living in the downtown area means that my family and I do not venture to Bangna very often. But the few times we have made it out to this ginormous shop, the experience has been less than happy. On our first visit to the store, we ordered three desks, table tops and table legs and paid to have them delivered to our home. The package arrived on time but there was a problem – one table leg was missing. I called the shop and explained the situation and was promptly told that, as I had only paid for one delivery, if I wanted the other leg I would have to go and pick it up myself. Shocking. And our most recent visit would be even worse. I went with my daughters and we picked up about 20 items. One of them was an egg slicer that my eldest wanted because grandma has one too. The cashier tried to ring the item and, with a heavy sigh, asked why I had picked up an item without a barcode. She explained that I shouldn’t take items from the display shelf, which I assured her I hadn’t done, and then asked if I still wanted it. With my daughter insisting she’d like to slice her eggs just like grandma does, of course I did. The cashier rolled her eyes and said it would take 15 minutes. She then called someone on the phone and a man appeared a few minutes later. He also gave me the same lecture about the display items and said I had to wait 15 minutes. It was a busy day at the shop and more shoppers began queueing behind me. I apologized to them and told them they could be waiting a while. During the wait, I asked the cashier if the store has staff wearing skates like some of the hy-

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permarkets we shop at; I asked her if she had a printed catalogue from which she could scan the barcode; I asked her why she couldn’t look up the barcode in her sophisticated cash register – basically a computer with a database of all the shop’s products. She just looked at me as though I was speaking Swedish. Problem eventually sorted, I decided to visit the customer service counter to leave feedback. Unable to find a comments form, I told my experience to the customer service rep. All I received was a robotic reply: “Thank you for your feedback. I will share it with my manager.” Exasperated, I decided it was best to walk away. As I was exiting the shop, I thought of Taiichi Ohno, the Toyota engineer and father of lean manufacturing, who countless students have studied because of his groundbreaking approach to benchmarking (comparing one’s own business processes to best practices from other companies) which would influence companies all around the world. For those who are not familiar with Ohno-san, let me share his interesting story. In 1956, Ohno-san visited the US automakers to learn how to minimize waste and increase the efficiency of Toyota manufacturing, so they could be as competitive as the US automakers. His biggest breakthrough, though, didn’t come from a car factory, but actually from supermarkets. Ohno-san was so impressed how American shoppers

were able to buy fresh groceries every day at every shop in each city, that he studied the supermarket supply systems and applied the same methods to Toyota’s supply chain. As a result, the Japanese automaker became more proficient, reduced waste and saved money. All businesses can benefit from a similar approach to benchmarking as Ohno-san’s. A few years ago, for example, I read how a hospital had improved the teamwork of its doctors, and reduced the mortality rate of patients being transferred from surgery to ICU, by studying the efficiency of Formula 1 pit stop teams (who can change four tyres and refuel a car in seven seconds!). Using the information gleaned from its studies, the hospital reduced technical and informational errors by 20%. That’s a lot of saved lives. As for the Scandinavian chain, I am hopeful that its benchmarking will come sooner rather than later. By providing useful tools like an online searchable catalogue for barcodes, or staff in skates who can quickly collect products, the shop can make the check-out process more efficient and boost the staff’s morale. The end result is a happier shopping experience for everyone. Pacharee Pantoomano Pfirsch is a marketing consultant at Brand Now Co., Ltd. When not shopping for household goods across town, or conducting a benchmarking study, she may be contacted at pacharee@brandnow.asia

Feature

Insight|Noise pollution

City of Noise Annoying, unhealthy and inescapable, noise levels in Bangkok are on the increase – and yet little or nothing is apparently being done to curb this much-hated phenomenon

LUCKY but precious few are those Bangkok citizens who are not a victim of noise pollution in some way or another. Day and night it assails us in dozens of different but equally annoying and frustrating forms, and yet there doesn’t seem much of an effort to reduce it, or even control it. What’s more, to the detriment of our health and wellbeing, the amount of noise we have to suffer just seems to increase year in, year out. Ten years ago, in 2004, His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej raised the issue of excessive noise in his birthday speech. Among other concerns, the King expressed worries about young people developing hearing problems. Following the speech, the government quickly implemented various programs to monitor and reduce noise levels in public places and venues like discotheques and other entertainment places. The Department of Land Transport was instructed to check the noise levels of their vehicles. Factories were also told to reduce loud noises. Unfortunately, as time went on, these important health and sanity saving measures slowly disappeared. The Pollution Control Department (PCD) under the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment has noise monitoring stations in the Bangkok Metropolitan area. The PCD publishes daily noise levels on its English-language website, with more detailed information on its Thai website. This is a step in the right direction, but obviously giving information about noise pollution doesn’t do anything to reduce it. The intensity of loudness is measured in Decibels (dB). Similar to temperature, the scale can dip below zero. For example, some people with very good hearing can detect sounds as low as -15 dB. The PCD noise index standards list 55-70 dB in the moderate level, while anything over that is considered unhealthy for humans. Sounds over 85 dB can cause permanent damage to hearing. Exposure to noise over 100 dB for a sustained period of time can cause hearing loss. This is about the noise level at some Bangkok cinemas! Normal conversation is about 60 dB, not loud enough to present a health risk, but a single sharp whistle blast ranges between 104 to 116 dB. If you are unfortunate enough to be within earshot of one of Bangkok’s many hyperactive car park security guards on a regular basis, you may be doing some serious damage to your eardrums.

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By Maxmilian Wechsler

Although it is often overlooked, noise pollution can take as great a toll on health as other forms of pollution. Frequent exposure to high noise levels can result in many serious conditions – physical, mental and emotional – besides hearing loss. Problems brought on or aggravated by loud noises include high blood pressure, sleep deprivation, aggressiveness, heart problems, distraction, irritability, stress, indigestion, ulcers, anxiety, headaches and heartburn. While lasting hearing damage is usually attributed to high frequency noise, evidence links low frequency noise to nausea and heart palpitations. Tens of millions of people around the world are exposed to levels of noise pollution great enough to affect their quality of life and productivity. The problem is recognized by the World Health Organization, the United Nations Environmental Protection Agency and the National Institutes of Health, one of the world’s foremost medical research centers under the US Department of Health.

It could be worse!

Whether you’re indoors or outside, there’s no escaping noise in Bangkok, but many people might be surprised to learn that the Thai capital is not on the list of the world’s 10 noisiest cities. India has the dubious distinction of being the leading country in terms of noise pollution, although there is some debate as to which of its cities is the noisiest. According to the latest report posted by the US-based CitiQuiet website in July, the noisiest city in the world is Mumbai, followed by Kolkata, Cairo, Delhi, Tokyo, Madrid, New York, Buenos Aires, Shanghai and Karachi. Another survey published in October 2013 by the US Centre for Hearing and Communications has Delhi in first place followed by Mumbai, Kolkata, Cairo, Tokyo, Madrid, New York, Buenos Aires, Shanghai and Karachi. A survey conducted by the government of Maharashtra State, India, in June placed Mumbai ahead of Delhi as the noisiest city in the world. Despite a crackdown on excessive noise under former Mayor Michael Bloomberg, New York is also a regular on such lists. An AP article says “screeching subway trains, honking cars,

roaring planes, barking dogs and boisterous people make noise the Big Apple’s No. 1 quality-of-life complaint, based on about 300,000 calls every year to the city’s 311 complaint hotline.” Under the city’s tough noise codes, every construction site must post a noise mitigation plan, while excessive noise from restaurants and vehicles is illegal. Tickets range from US$70 (about 2,200 baht) for a barking dog to as much as $8,000 for a nightclub playing loud music. But despite thousands of violation notices filed, health officials warn there are still many places where noise levels top 85 dB, and some parts of the city frequently exceed 100 dB.

At the other end of the spectrum, the quietest cities in the world, according to the ePROFITS website based in Canada, are: Pyongyang, Yinchuan in China; Hartford in the US state of Connecticut; Brisbane, Australia; and Singapore. Vientiane in neighboring Laos also has a reputation for being very quiet.

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Feature

Insight|Noise pollution

Types of noise pollution

Noise pollution in Bangkok can be attributed to a great many sources, with the ones mentioned below topping the list. Traffic: The city’s chronically congested roads generate dangerous levels of noise along with greenhouse gases. With all the passenger cars, pickup trucks, buses, trucks and motorcycles on the streets, pedestrians talking on mobiles often can’t hear what the other party is saying.

‘Boom cars’ so beloved by young men are fitted with powerful audio systems with a pounding bass that penetrates a wide area. Some tour coaches and mini vans are fitted with these sound systems. Encountering one on the highway can be quite unnerving. When vehicles with exhaust modifications or powerful audio systems cruise in a semi-enclosed area, such as along high-rise lined Silom Road under the BTS, the noise is magnified and can be unbearable. Such drivers are clearly lacking in common sense and regard for their fellow citizens.

Tuk-tuks: Special attention should be given to the three-wheelers that have been terrorizing people in Bangkok for decades. Even though many have been converted from petrol to natural gas to reduce air pollution, their engines still make enough noise that can be heard clearly inside nearby residences and offices. Several companies in Thailand now manufacture electric tuktuks that are totally quiet. Legislation allowing only electric tuktuks on Thailand’s roads would go a long way toward alleviating noise pollution.

Passenger boats: Boats with long-tail outboard motors transporting passengers on Bangkok canals are very noisy and destroy the peace along the waterways. It is a cheap way of transport for many locals, but the noise they make is really unbelievable.

Vendor trucks with speakers: You can see them with loud speakers mounted on top, usually selling fruits and vegetables or publicizing an upcoming boxing match, driving slowly on side streets in Bangkok suburbs and even in the heart of the city. One expat said they often ply his Soi on Sukhumvit Road as early as 7am, even on Sundays, and wake up his entire family. Some mobile vendors use other devices to attract attention, including pre-recorded music, bells and squeeze horns. Converted vehicles: Many cars and motorcycles are extremely loud because of modified exhaust systems. A roaring exhaust system can be heard and felt over a wide distance, rattling windows and travelling through walls.

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Howling hounds: Most Thais seem to be able to somehow block out the noise of dogs barking uncontrollably, but it’s not uncommon to hear foreigners complaining about it. One British expat who lives in a house off Silom Road said several dogs kept inside a cage in a compound nearby regularly deprive him of sleep. “Sometimes they start barking at 3am. I wonder how the owner of the dogs can sleep either. This has been going on for a year,” said the man. “And when one dog starts barking, they all join in.” An American expat who lives on the 6th ﬂoor of a condominium on Rama 3 said he is sometimes woken up by barking dogs roaming in the community below. “Strays run around day and night in many parts of Bangkok. I don’t know if there is any city agency to control them, but if there is they aren’t doing their job. At the least the dogs should be neutered so they don’t just keep multiplying,” said the expat. “Fortunately they aren’t usually very aggressive, but they can be a real nuisance, especially when something sets them off late at night.” Another frequent complaint is the blaring adTV ads on BTS: Another vertisements on closed circuit TVs placed at all BTS stations and

times the volume is deliberately turned up towards closing time to encourage customers to leave. Night owls: In a city that never sleeps, late-night parties or quarrels, especially at lower rent apartments where night workers or party animals live, have long been a source of complaints for tenants with day jobs. One foreigner often grumbled about being woken up by neighbours arriving home after 2am. “It is difficult to get a good night’s sleep because they’re carrying on until 6am, and the walls are thin,” said the foreigner, who has now found quieter lodging. Whistle blowing: The most outrageous and offensive sound in the city may be the almost incessant blast from a car park attendant’s whistle. The noise is really deafening and it feels degrading to be directed like cattle. inside trains. One website has a petition for commuters to sign. The petition, addressed to the Bangkok Mass Transit System, says: “Stop the noise ...The constant and loud noise of TV ads is disturbing, and poses long-term health risk to daily commuters, and in particular, young school children.” The noisy ads make the commute less comfortable, especially during rush hours when the platforms and carriages are full. Heavy construction: This is one of the biggest sources of complaints, especially the use of noisy heavy equipment to hammer down foundation piles, from 7am until night, and sometimes all night. At least one embassy has been affected as well. Dozens of high-rise buildings are now under construction in Bangkok. Shopping venues: It seems that any shop in any department store, plaza, mall or shopping centre in the city can be a source of excessively loud music. Sometimes the shops seem to be in a competition for who can be the loudest. What is the purpose? Surely this does nothing to boost sales. Then there are the promotional events inside and outside the shops when an announcer, usually a woman, squawks nonstop into a microphone with speakers turned to the highest volume. Almost without exception shoppers walk by these promotions without as much as a glance, so it’s hard to see how the commotion can be justified. It just makes shopping unpleasant. Coffee shops and restaurants: Restaurants and coffee shops also often offer music that is too loud for conversation. Some-

Airplanes: The noise from jet engines is a daily and inescapable nuisance for people living close to Don Muang and Suvarnabhumi airports. Cinemas: Finally, the sound systems at most cinemas are surely over the safety level. Some doctors say they exceed 100 dB.

Volume stuck on high Unfortunately, there are not many legal options against the noise makers. Complaints can be made at the local police station. They can act only according to the Thai Criminal Code B.E. 2499 (1956), Book III, Petty Offenses, Section 370, which states: “Whoever creates a noise, causes a noise or disturbance without a reasonable cause so as to frighten or trouble to the public, shall be punished with fine not exceeding one hundred baht.” That may have been a significant sum of money 56 years ago, but these days the threat of a 100 baht fine wouldn’t do much to deter noise polluters even if the law were enforced. Frequent complaints in the media about noise have fallen on the deaf ears of successive governments. This leaves it up to individuals to try to protect their hearing and sanity as best they can. Ear plugs are reasonably effective and they are cheap, although some people find them uncomfortable. Not surprisingly, a quick check with Bangkok hospitals revealed that doctors treating hearing problems aren’t short of patients.

e c a e P & t Quie Want to escape Bangkok’s noise? See our round up of the city’s parks on page 68

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Gourmet p Wine and restaurant news

Michelin Magic: Italian chef Matteo Metullio is bringing his award-winning cuisine to Bangkok. Page 28.

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cooking A round up of this monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best gourmet deals. Yummy! Page 28

Meet the chef Meet the Executive Chef of Sala Rattanakosin Bangkok Page 36

Recipe

Rich rewards are yours for the tasting in this easy to make dish Page 38 TheBigChilli

Gourmet

Dining|News

What’s Cooking

Bangkok’s hottest dining deals and news

Live Abalone Japanese

SEPT 10-21 AT KISARA JAPANESE CUISINE

LIVE abalone fresh from the coastal reefs of Japan will be available for 11 days this month at Conrad Bangkok’s Japanese restaurant, KiSara. This prized sea snail, arguably the most delicious among edible shellfish, can be eaten raw, as sashimi, or cooked in a variety of ways. French Fridays at Iso Alongside traditional EVERY FRIDAY AT SWISSÔTEL NAI LERT recipes, expect to find PARK BANGKOK unique abalone dishes SWISSÔTEL Nai Lert Park Bangkok’s such as Kaisen Shabu all-day dining restaurant will this month Shabu, Aburi Wafu pasta, add a selection of classic French gourand Awabi teppanyaki. met dishes to its Friday night buffets. All Seasons Place, 87/3 Wireless Rd. ☎ 02 690 9233 facebook.com/conradbangkokhotel Alongside the usual selection of Asian and European favourites, expect to find French foie gras; Moules Marinières; Boeuf Bourguignon; Crêpes Suzettes; and more. 6pm-10pm. B999++; B1,999++ with free-flow Prosecco or French wine; B499++ for kids aged 6-12.

☎

2 Wireless Rd 02 253 0123 swissotel.com/hotels/bangkok-nai-lert-park

Michelin Magic: Matteo Metullio at Enoteca OCT 8 -11 AT ENOTECA ITALIAN RESTAURANT

HEADING up the culinary operations at the esteemed Ristorante La Siriola in San Cassiano, 25-year-old Matteo Metullio is the youngest chef in Italy to oversee a Michelin Starred restaurant. Born in Trieste, he grew up in a family of food lovers who encouraged him to develop his skills as a chef. By the age of 19, he was already part of the team of world famous chef Norbert Niederkofler at the two Michelin Starred St. Hubertus Restaurant, where he spent four years

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Italian specials

UNTIL SEPT 30 AT WINE PUB

PULLMAN Bangkok King Power’s trendy Wine Pub will celebrate Italian cuisine this month with a special menu featuring Sicilian bruschetta, Sea bass carpaccio, Veal saltimbocca, Pumpkin before moving to La Siriola. Needless to say, his food risotto with roasted Canadian is superb, and best of all – you can try it for yourself lobster, and more hearty dishes next month in Bangkok. starting at B490 for an appetizer, From Oct 8-11, Chef Matteo will take control of and B790 for a main course. The the kitchens at the splendid Enoteca Italian Restaumenu is available daily 6pm-10pm. rant, Sukhumvit 27, to create a six-course degustaThe hotel is located on Rang-Nam tion menu paired with S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna Road near the Victory Monument mineral waters, plus a superb selection of highly (a free shuttle Tuk Tuk service is rated wines from Cantina Terlano. B3,500++ per head available near the BTS station). (wine paring B1,700++). 8/2 Rangnam Rd. ☎ 02 680 9999 Soi Sukhumvit 27 ☎02 258 4386 enotecabangkok.com pullmanbangkokkingpower.com

Gourmet

Dining|News

Breakfast by the river

AVAILABLE NOW AT SAMBAL BAR AND GRILL

WE’RE constantly being told that breakfast is the most important meal of the day; the perfect excuse, then, for going to check out the new Eggs Benedict menu available at Sambal Bar and Grill. Starting from just B190 per dish, the options include highlights such as Eggs benedict with smoked salmon, spinach and béarnaise sauce on whole wheat toast; and Eggs benedict with English back bacon and hollandaise sauce on English muffin, and are available every Saturday morning from 8am-12pm. It’s a great way to start the day, especially as the restaurant is located in a lovely riverside setting at the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers. 2 Charoen Krung Soi 30 ☎ 02 266 9214 royalorchidsheraton.com

Meaty deals at Benihana

UNTIL DEC 30 AT ANANTARA BANGKOK RIVERSIDE RESORT & SPA

TO celebrate Benihana’s 50th anniversary worldwide and 22 years in Thailand, the Japanese steakhouse at Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa is currently dishing up two special dining deals – a choice of Beni burgers (beef at B650++, fish at B550++, and mushroom at B380++) or a Teppan Shushi Set Menu. The latter includes onion soup, salad, signature sushi, and a selection of prime meat, foie gras, unagi, scallop and salmon, all sliced and seared by a master Japanese chef at a sizzling teppanyaki table (B1,100++ per table). Available daily for lunch and dinner. 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. ☎ 02 476 0022 bangkokriverdining.com

Time for ‘Sunch’ EVERY SUN AT VOILÀ!

GOING under the moniker ‘Sunch’ – a portmanteau of Sunday and brunch – Sofitel Bangkok’s new weekend feast at Voilà! Restaurant features a buffet loaded with French, Asian and international cuisines, including highlights such as Voilà!’s signature Canadian lobster bisque, crowned with butter puff and a shot of Napoleon Brandy; Flame-grilled French-styled free range chicken; Meter long pizzas; and Braised Wagyu Beef osso buco. B2,200 with free-flow soft drinks (half-price for kids aged 6-12); B3,750 with free-flow wines and alcoholic drinks; 4,750 with Moët & Chandon Champagne, wines and alcoholic drinks. Every Sun 12pm-3pm. 189 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 13-15 ☎ 02 126 9999 soﬁtel-bangkok-sukhumvit.com

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Zambrero ZAMBRERO, a quick-service Mexican restaurant chain from Australia, has opened its first international branch at Bangkok’s CentralWorld. Located on the mall’s sixth floor, the restaurant specializes in fresh and healthy Mexican food made fresh to order. Flavour is enhanced by sous vide cooking, in which meat is sealed in airtight bags and slowcooked at a low temperature so it remains tender and juicy. The menu includes burritos, nachos, tacos, quesadillas, chips & dips, and more. Dishes range from B69-B189. Open daily 10am-10pm. zambrero.com

So Amazing Chefs 2014

OCT 16-19 AT SOFITEL SO BANGKOK

THE third edition of the annual So Amazing Chefs event, held at Sofitel So Bangkok, will once again bring together nine top chefs from around the world for four days of gourmet dining and cooking demonstrations at the hotel’s restaurants. Chefs returning this year include Alain Caron from Amsterdam, Christophe Paucod from Japan, Didier Corlou from Vietnam, Patrick Jeffroy from Brittany, maitre-chocolatier Stephane Bonnat, also from France, and Sofitel So Bangkok’s Paul Smart. Making their debut and adding to the high profile nature of the event are truffle expert Daniel Hebet; chef-owner of a Michelin-starred restaurant, Laurent Peugeot; and Tokyo-based pastry chef consultant Stephane Vieux. As in previous years, the highlight of the So Amazing Chefs event will be the Culinary Showdown, which will take place on the evening of Fri Oct 17 and will see all nine chefs go head-tohead in a friendly cook-off. Tickets for this event are B1,900++ per person (includes a welcome cocktail and three-course dinner). 2 North Sathorn Rd. ☎ 02 624 0000 soﬁtel.com

Gourmet

Pics|Events

Gourmet scrapbook Last month’s foodie functions in focus

Bangkok Chefs Charity Gala Dinner

THE sixth edition of Bangkok’s most exclusive and glamorous gourmet event once again brought together 23 of the city’s top chefs to create a 10-course feast at the Royal Ballroom of Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok. Presided over by Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn, the fundraising event was arranged by founders Nuntiya and Patcharin Hame-ung-gull, General Managers of Gourmet One, and attended by leading figures of Bangkok’s high society. Fueling the evening, which raised a total of 14.5 million baht for the Border Patrol Police Schools under the Patronage of Her Royal Highness as well as underprivileged children in the remote Amphur Omkoy in Chiang Mai, were Executive Chefs from Bangkok’s five-star hotels and Thai Airways International.

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Gourmet

Pics|Events

Rotarians welcome new president

MEMBERS of the Rotary Club Bangkok South officially welcomed the club’s new president, Michael Doyle, and new Board of Directors with an Installation Dinner held at the Dusit Thani Bangkok.

Mr Jones’ Orphanage opens in Sathorn

MR Jones’ Orphanage Milk Bar, Bakery Shop and Restaurant celebrated the launch of its new branch at Empire Tower, Sathorn, by hosting an afternoon tea party featuring a delicious spread of cakes and cookies. Designed by Roberto Giordano, the new branch has a farm house concept, yet still retains the feel of the original Mr Jones’ Orphanage on Thonglor 13. 34

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Strip AD_Coffee Club_Sep14.pdf AD Bourbon St_May12.pdf 1

8/22/14

10:12 AM 5/2/12 6:46:56 PM

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Gourmet

Chef in focus|Tony Wrigley

Your signature dish? Twice cooked pork belly, roast pumpkin puree, stir fried morning glory, apple and young ginger marmalade – my Thai take on the English classic roast pork with apple sauce. It’s divine.

SERVING UP Tony Wrigley

The Executive Chef of Sala Rattanakosin Bangkok on his love of all things food

Biggest culinary myth? That all chefs are angry, foulmouthed and angry tyrants. We all have our moody moments but it’s much more rewarding to be kind and make your staff laugh. Our kitchen now is super busy, and we never stop working but more importantly we never stop having fun in our work!

Your worst kitchen disaster? I once took two days to make a port wine sauce for a New Year’s Eve dinner. I stupidly put the sauce into a tray to cool near the potwash area, and about an hour later I went to move the sauce but the guy on the potwash had already thrown it down the sink. My Executive Chef at the time never allowed me to forget that one. Not good! Your proudest moment as a chef? Establishing myself in Thai kitchens and building great teams that produce wonderful food. It was always my dream to live and work here but to be successful and have the love and support of my kitchen teams makes it even more special.

Best advice you’ve ever received? By my mum when I was a young teenager, “Go and build yourself a career as a chef son, you can travel the world and see wonderful places and even better, get paid doing it.” How right she was. Your favourite chefs? Marco Pierre White, Ferran Adria, Paul Kitching

Cooked for any VIPs or celebs? Yeah loads. Royalty, David and Victoria Beckham, Mike Tyson, Nicolas Cage, Ricky Hatton, Sir Alex Ferguson.

What’s your cooking philosophy? Always cook with a smile. Happy chefs = happy food!

About the chef

Your alltime favourite restaurant? Juniper, which at the time was the only Michelin star restaurant in Manchester but has now sadly closed. Paul Kitching, the chef/ owner is an absolute culinary genius.

■ BORN and raised in the city of Manchester in the North West of England, Tony gained his passion for food from his mother whom he used to enjoy helping in the kitchen. He launched his career in late ’80s by enrolling at Tameside Catering College (where he was named student of the year in 1990), and upon graduation quickly began rising through the culinary ranks. Highlights of his early career include a stint working for the UK’s highly acclaimed Brunning and Price group of Gastro pubs, as well as three years as head chef of the Liquid Lounge in Marbella, Spain. Arriving in Thailand in June 2008 with a job at the Rockfish in Kamala, Phuket, Tony went on to work as Executive Chef at the Zeavola Resort and Spa in Koh Phi Phi, before joining Sala Rattanakosin Bangkok last October as part of the resort’s pre-opening team. Tony is immensely proud to see the property finally open and serving what he describes as “modern and dynamic comfort food with wonderfully honest flavors.” Tony’s cooking style can best be described as Modern European with Read the influences from North Africa, Asia and, of course, Spain. 39 Maharat Rd. ☎02 622 1388 salaresorts.com/rattanakosin 36

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full interview with Tony at www.thebigchilli.com

Dining|Recipe

Recipe of the month Murg Ke Parchey

Easy to prepare and quick to cook, this succulent dish by The Great Kabab Factory’s Master Chef, Mahesh Thapa, never fails to impress with its rich, buttery tastes Ingredients (Serves 2) • 500g chicken breast • 20ml lemon juice • 20g ginger garlic paste • 50g hung curd • 30ml cream • A pinch of salt • 5g red chilli powder • 5g turmeric • 5g black pepper powder • 10g roasted gram ﬂour • 5g garam masala • 20ml oil • A pinch of chaat masala

Method 1. Wash the chicken breast and remove excess fat before slicing it into thin slices (around 5mm thick). 2. Marinate the sliced chicken with lemon juice, ginger garlic paste and a pinch of salt, then put aside for 20 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, in a flat bowl make a smooth paste of hung curd (hang around 200g of thick curd in a muslin cloth

overnight) by pressing and rubbing the bundle to drain out the excess moisture until creamy. 4. Combine the remaining ingredients, apart from chaat masala and oil, to the hung curd and make a smooth paste. 5. Squeeze out excess moisture from the marinated chicken slices before mixing with the smooth paste.

6. Heat a flat pan and add some oil. 7. Arrange the marinated chicken slices on the pan and cook for around three minutes. 8. Turn the pieces over and cook till they are thoroughly cooked. 9. Sprinkle some chaat masala on top and serve hot.

Chef in focus

a Chef Mahesh Thap 38

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A MASTER of the tandoor and grill, Chef Mahesh Thapa kick-started his culinary career in 2003 when he completed the Apprenticeship Program at the Crown Plaza Surya New Delhi. He followed this up with three years for The Great Kabab Factory at Radisson Blu New Delhi. Priding himself on cooking meats to succulent perfection, his proudest achievement so far is “Being part of the culinary team that prepared a dinner in honour of the Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall at The Maharaja of Patiala’s Palace.” You can try Chef Mahesh’s succulent dishes for yourself at the newly opened The Great Kabab Factory, located on the ground floor of the Majestic Grande Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 2. Cooking classes are also available. The Great Kabab Factory, Sukhumvit Soi 2. Open daily 6pm-11pm

☎ 02 262 2999 :facebook.com/TGKFThailand

cut out and keep

Gourmet

Guest review|BB&B

Quince Simple yet thoughtful dishes find favour with the discerning diners of BB&B

UR monthly foray in search of Beefsteak and Burgundy was amply rewarded with our first visit as a Club to Quince - Eatery & Bar, just 20 metres from bustling Sukhumvit. The 14 guests assembled at the rear of the restaurant in an open area to quaff, once again, Charles Steiner NV Brut (WA) and enjoy tasty canapĂŠs. Dining in earnest began with an amuse bouche, Crostini, roast tomato, and pickled white anchovy, accompanied by Sandalford Element Chardonnay (South Australia). The latter did not please all, but the dish was very acceptable. To compensate, the next wine, Bestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Great Western Pinot Noir 2011 (also South Australia), received accolades aplenty and went particularly well with the Pork belly, fennel, apple slaw, and red pepper jam. The set of starters was completed by Crisp duck salad, grapes, fennel, beans, harissa, yoghurt and Roast bone marrow, parsley, capers, lemon, with toast. Our veteran food critic, Luigi Vercotti, making an all

too rare appearance as our spokesman, declared his complete satisfaction with the proceedings. Next came Slow roasted lamb shoulder, raisins, oregano, green olives, and potato gratin with accompanying

Bangkok Beefsteak & Burgundy

market greens, roast almonds, lemon oil (and a dash of yoghurt) served with Colonial Estate Etranger Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (the third offering from SA). I thought the Cabernet was ok but several others, including wine spokesman Shane Burt, disagreed. However, there was absolutely no discord to be found with the lamb; it was tasty, well cooked and very tender, and went well with the potato gratin. Nakhon Sawan cheeses, camembert, munster, reblochon, with quince paste and rosemary crackers came next. This was a very generous serving of cheese and several diners were incredulous that cheese of this quality is being made in Thailand. Along with this the Colonial Estate Cab Sav took more hammering. Finally, and perhaps a little too rich in view of all that had been consumed before, we were served dessert, Soft chocolate, crisp meringue, berries, and basil, accompanied by Maury (France). The latter proved to be an excellent though not too sweet dessert wine. Our chef, Blair Mathieson, received thanks and praise from the assembly who also passed on their appreciation for the efforts of the small band of tireless servers. We shall be back in months ahead, I have little doubt. Quince - Eatery & Bar, Sukhumvit Soi 45 Tel: 02 662 4478 www.quincebangkok.com

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Gourmet

Review|Bawarchi

Review

Bawarchi Chidlom

Experience the authentic taste of India in the heart of Bangkok

SINCE opening 15 years ago Bawarchi Indian restaurant has earned a reputation for serving some of the tastiest curries and tandoori specials in town. Visit any of its five branches in Bangkok and you’re sure to enjoy a fulfilling feast – tikkas, kebabs, masalas, aloos, mutters and more – all made with the finest herbs and spices imported from Bawarchi’s own spice factory in Delhi. To experience Bawarchi’s cuisine at its best, though, make a beeline for its flagship branch at the President Tower Arcade (next to the InterContinental Bangkok in Chidlom). Not only is this Bawarchi’s most elegant venue (think well-dressed tables, plush seating, mockflame lanterns, ornate wallpaper, and traditional Indian décor), but it also offers a selection of curries and daily dining promotions you won’t find at the brand’s

other branches. Meaty Monday, for instance, features special dishes like Lamb chilli fry (B550++) and Prawn balchao curry (B675++), while Sizzling Saturday serves up meats and veggies on red hot skillets, including a great Tawa boti masala (B575++). While Bawarchi’s regular menu focuses on the traditional Mughlai cuisine of North West India, it also includes a good selection of famous regional dishes like Rogan josh and Tikka masala, plus a range of unique Thai-Indian fusion creations such as Mango chicken curry (B475++). With all meat marinated overnight for maximum taste, the restaurant’s tandoori dishes never fail to impress. Especially the Tandoori lamb chops (B550++), whose tender meat delights with every herb-infused bite, and the

Murgh malai kebab (B350++), chicken marinated with Indian herbs and cheese, which is rich, creamy, succulent and delicious. Curries run the full gamut from spicy to buttery with vegetarian, lamb, chicken and seafood options all on offer. Popular choices include the Butter chicken (B400++), Lamb rogan josh (B490++), and Saag paneer (B375++). The restaurant’s signature Khas murg (B450++) is also worth a try. All food is served swiftly and efficiently and always arrives at the table piping hot. You can team your selections with one of the many rice and Indian bread options on offer, and wash it all down with teas, lassis, beers, or a fine international wine (start at B1,200 per bottle; B350 per glass).

Bawarchi Chidlom, Intercontinental Hotel (President Tower Arcade) B-level, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Ample parking available. 02 656 0102-3 :bawarchiindian.com

☎

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Gourmet

Where to eat Recommended restaurants and bars

Italian cuisine

Gianni

Owner/chef Gianni Favro, a Venetian, has a cadre of regulars, many from the ‘Old Country,’ keeping this place busy most nights of the week. In addition, he gets more of the Italian tourist crowd than most local places, plus lots of prominent Thais. The setting is open-plan, with abstract paintings, soft lights and shared couches. Set lunches make Gianni’s far cheaper at lunch than at dinner. The 200 different Italian wines give it probably the largest Italian wine list in town. Call for reservations; it gets busy.

Soi Tonson, 250m from Ploenchit Rd (BTS Chidlom) 02 252 1619 : giannibkk.com

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Spasso

Spasso is a Chameleon: It’s ﬁlled with shoppers and ofﬁce-types at lunch, family diners in the early evenings, and revelers late at night when the entertainment starts. It offers set lunches and nu-

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Zanotti

One of the most highly regarded Italian restaurants in town, Zanotti has achieved its lofty status by doing everything right. The menu is comprehensive, but specializes in dishes from Tuscany and Piedmont. The interior is intimate and romantic, but still relaxed and laid back. The service is attentive, but not overly fussy. The osso buco, a good measure of any Italian restaurant’s mettle, is superb. The wine list is an all-Italian show featuring many of Italy’s ﬁnest wines. Soi Saladaeng in the Colonnade Building (BTS Saladaeng or MRT Silom) 02 636 0002 : zanotti-ristorante.com

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American Food

Harvey

Harvey’s features Californian cuisine served up in sleek, modern and decidedly posh surroundings. California is noted for its wide variety of fresh fruits and produce, and an equally wide variety of ethnic groups. The developing cuisine from this state reﬂects this diversity, making it a fusion lover’s delight. The menu ranges far and wide, but most dishes are memorable and well presented. This is rapidly becoming one of the city’s most popular spots. Drop-in and see what all the excitement is about. Thonglor Soi 9, 300m from Soi Thon02 712 9911 glor (BTS Thonglor), : harvey.in.th

☎

Hard Rock Café

This international icon needs no introduction to anyone. From opening until 10pm, the Bangkok version is a restaurant serving casual American food while lots of good music emits from the sound system, and an attached retail shop does a booming business selling Hard Rock memorabilia. But after 10pm, HRC morphs into a different animal. Patrons under 20 have to leave, live music comes on stage and the place begins to rock. Always popular with Siam Square regulars and tourists from all over the world, this is one of those places everyone has to visit at least once. Siam Square, Soi 11 (BTS Siam), 02 658 4090-3 : hardrock.com/cafes/bangkok

☎ merous Italian dinner options, including signature dishes like roasted lamb loin in herb crust. Don’t want a full meal? There’s a large selection of appetizers, pizzas and pastas. The cocktail selection is enormous and several beers are available on tap. After 10pm, except on Sunday, the live entertainment starts, often with bands from North America. Lower level of the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok at Rajdamri and Ploenchit Roads (BTS Chidlom) 02 254 1234 : bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

☎

Roadhouse Barbecue

Barbecued food from the American south is a great antidote for the negative impression created by the pap served by American fast food chains. For excellent BBQ ribs, pulled pork sandwiches, hicko-

ry smoked beef brisket, and a lot more, try this place. There is a large exhibition kitchen, featuring an open ﬂame BBQ and two wood smokers. Up on the third ﬂoor, you can watch sports on big screen TVs, play billiards or throw darts. Lots of fun and loads of good eats. Junction of Surawongse and Rama IV Roads (MRT Silom or BTS Sala02 236 8010 daeng) : roadhousebarbecue.com

☎

French cuisine

The Reflexions

The Reﬂexions offers contemporary French food in modern surroundings. It’s open for casual lunches and relaxed, but mildly elegant, dinners. There is live music from 19.00 – 22.00 each evening to add ambience. Don’t expect traditional French dishes, the menu is contemporary with a great deal of emphasis placed upon presentation. The service is efﬁcient and friendly. The entertainment and atmosphere make this a good place to spend the entire evening.

Plaza Athenee Bangkok, Wireless Rd, 200m from Ploenchit Road (BTS 02 650 8800 Ploenchit) : plazaatheneebangkok.com

☎

International cuisine

Aubergine

Serving a selection of French inspired dishes from the stunningly converted residence that formerly housed Le Bistingo, Aubergine is an attractive option on the local dining scene. Proprietor Nunteera Cox, herself a trained chef, has a French chef with sterling credentials in the kitchen. Weekday Set lunches are only Baht 490++ and include three courses and a cup of coffee or tea. Dining here in the evening is romantic, but relaxed and convivial. A large bar dominates the main room and is ideal for quafﬁng one of the numerous wines offered by the glass. Saladaeng Soi1/1, 50m Soi Saladaeng, (BTS Saladaeng or MRT 02 234 2226 Silom) : aubergine.in.th

Aldo’s Mediterranean Bistro and Wine bar

This is a rare gem among Bangkok’s multitude of up-market dining venues. Elegant and stylish without pretentiousness, an informal atmosphere ensures it’s a great venue to kick back, relax and enjoy delicious food and ﬁne wine. There’s a well-stocked cellar providing an excellent selection of fruity New World and Old World wines, and a food menu with some of the ﬁnest Mediterranean cuisine to be found in Bangkok. All set at great prices. Enjoy your meal indoor or poolside. Level 6 and 7, The Ascott Building, 187 South Sathorn Road 02 676 6982 : aldosbistro.com

☎

Le Normandie

The doyen of Bangkok’s hotel restaurants, Le Normandie has been serving ﬁne French food to royalty, tycoons and we ordinary folk since the 1950s. Elegant is the best way to describe the interior and there are great views of the Chao Phraya to boot. The restaurant’s current Chef de Cuisine is Arnaud

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Dunand Sauthier who has over a decade of experience in ﬁne dining, having worked with renowned culinary talents worldwide, including Georges Blanc in Vonnas, Marc Veyrat in L’Auberge de L’Eridan, and Emile Jung at Crocodile. The restaurant’s wine list is wide ranging and features some of the world’s ﬁnest and most expensive wines. Jackets are required in the evening and children under 12 aren’t permitted. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, (BTS Saphan Taksin, then take the hotel’s 02 659 9000 shuttle boat), : mandarinoriental.com/bangkok

☎

Bei Otto

This popular place features German eats, a ‘European restaurant,’ a German delicatessen and a clientele that usually converses in German. Open all day, many people simply drop-in to enjoy an

Leapfrog Restaurant and Bar

Located on the eighth ﬂoor of Galleria 10 (former Ramada Encore Bangkok), Leapfrog jumps to attention by offering a chic dining atmosphere, stunning views of Chuwit Park, and also great value for money. Highlights of its globetrotting a la carte menu include the tender roast Rack of Lamb, Fish & Chips (no sogginess!), and Torino—a rectangular pizza topped with ham, mushroom, mozzarella cheese and chilli. A Frog’s Tree Tapas deal is also available, offering a choice of three tapas and ﬁve per set, a perfect way to share tasty bites with your companions. Galleria 10 Bangkok, 21 Sukhumvit 02 615 0999 Soi 10 (BTS Asoke) : leapfrogbkk.com

☎

imported German beer and a snack. Others try the numerous German dishes, including Bangkok’s best German sausages. The baked goods, including excellent dark breads, are also excellent. Although the main restaurant serves a variety of European dishes, the German items are deﬁnitely the best. Sukhumvit Soi 20 (BTS Asoke or 02 260 0869 MRT Sukhumvit) : beiotto.com

☎

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Expat Women

Insight|Profile

From Acorns to Oaks By Chutinanta Boonyamarn

How British expat Alison Owen helps children with learning difficulties to bloom

■ THE lack of support services for children with learning difficulties and other neurological problems in Thailand may not register on most people’s radars, but what if you’re a parent of a child diagnosed with Down syndrome, autism, or attention deficit disorder? Where do you go to ensure your child gets the assistance they need to develop and reach their full potential?

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These were exactly the questions swimming around British expat Alison Owen’s head when, together with her family, she moved to Thailand in the early ’90s following her husband’s new job, and discovered that parents of children with learning difficulties

couldn’t find suitable resources for their kids. “Not long after moving here I began helping out with children at an international school,” explains Alison, an occupational therapist with over 25 years’ experience, “and during this time I heard many parents discussing how difficult it was to find individual and effective interventions for their children outside of the classroom. “This provided a compelling wish to create a centre where the child, family, school and home are all taken into consideration in a series of carefully crafted support workshops and training facilities – in short, a real holistic approach.” In 2004, Alison brought that dream to life by opening the Acorns To Oaks Centre (ATOC), a unique facility in Bangkok’s Phrakanong district which provides specialist education

programmes for children with specific learning difficulties, all conducted by a team of experienced consultants and therapists. The centre operates adhering to five key principles: 1) To build the children’s confidence by helping them to believe in themselves, develop their skills, and work on self image as valued individuals. 2) To successfully use its qualified educators and quality resources to meet specific targets. 3) To help students to think critically using an approach that enables them to observe, reflect, evaluate, explain, and reason. 4) To increase each child’s capacity to learn and develop their academic readiness and achievement. And 5) To help young children to speak though oral therapy, speech and language training, and, when required, picture systems, signing and specialised computer software. “Our recommendations focus on the child within their family unit and we use a service model, making sure we follow ethical guidelines.” Counseling and training is an integral aspect of the support provided and the

centre will discharge the child from services as the child makes progress and no longer requires this highly specialized approach.Moving towards independence in their development and learning is a key element of any programme. “We can’t smother the children and let them become dependent on us,” explains Alison. “As soon as we know they have improved to the point that they are ready to leave, then we must let them go.” To establish the extent of a child’s learning difficulties and discover what strategies would suit them best, ATOC carries out standardized assessment tests ranging

from intelligence and social behavior to visual skills and motor performance. The center’s experts tailor each test to meet the specific needs of each child. “We also interview each child’s family, not only to ensure the family understand what we do, but also to ensure that parents are aware of

ways in which they can help their child to work towards their full potential,” explains Alison. “Everything we do at ATOC looks at the child’s best interests.” Another important part of ATOC’s work is to ensure parents are willing to embrace the center’s holistic approach at home. “I don’t want parents

“I would love for ATOC to become Thai-managed so that it is run by Thais for Thais. I would also love to be able to provide a service as a foundation.”

to feel like their children have problems akin to a sickness, and that visiting the centre is like going to hospital for treatment,” says Alison. “I want parents to realize that asking for help, seeking information is empowering; that children face learning challenges, yet using a holistic approach significant developments are made.” Evaluations and programmes offered are individual and supportive of what is already happening in the child’s school, and take into account the child’s abilities as well as their needs. When asked about her future plans, Alison replies, “I would love for ATOC to become Thai-managed so that it is run by Thais for Thais. I would also love to be able to provide a service as a foundation making services more widely available. Thailand has given me so much joy and I would love to give something back. And, right now, we are making baby steps towards doing just that.” For more info see: www.atocbkk.com

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

Monsoon Midnights Special places in Bangkok, as experienced by the Bangkok Women’s Writer’s Group Dear reader Welcome to ‘Monsoon Midnights,’ a brand new series of stories by the Bangkok Women’s Writers Group. The storytellers of the BWWG come from all over the world but they all have a special place in this city, somewhere surprising, obscure and unexpected, as yet undiscovered. Follow us to these hidden places right here, month after month.

NIGHTFALL OVER BANGKOK THERE are some very high places in Bangkok. Places where you can look out and see the city like an interactive map spread out beneath you. Tonight, the moon has risen, small and dingy, the lowest denomination coin in the sky, while the sun still slopes towards the horizon, spreading out his dangerous inflammation under a sheet of dark cloud. Tonight, the call comes very early, just on the cusp of dusk. While W hile the sun sinks wrapped in carmine shadows, I am drawn ttowards owards the shabby rising moon by a long line of blurred tail lights, filling the city streets to the brim like a slowly advancing ground fire. Stopping, starting, exuding dense emissions, revving aging engines, sputtering, whining, and occasionally dying down altogether, the stream of tail lights flashes in an incomprehensibly complex pattern. Minds trapped inside the cars, the trucks, the buses are confused, alternating between a strange trance like state and the stranglehold of frustration. Eyes glaze over. Phones ring to apologize for yet another unacceptable lateness. Then, unpredictably, rage erupts. Screams, collisions at snail’s space, mad dashes for invisible escape routes. Angry gestures, wildly voiced accusations that nobody hears outside the metal bubble of the car. Sometimes, people gush forth from their vehicles, tail lights flashing on high alert, berating each other. Threats are made, photographs taken and sent, long stored up frustration vents out. Then, suddenly, the line moves and everyone scrambles back, terrified of losing their place, their opportunity to advance, however little ground is made. Slowly, but inexorably, the lava flows. Towards the edges, the outskirts, the further reaches of the city. Tonight’s storyteller, Morgan Pr yce, flows with us in the stream of burning tail lights. Although the stream itself is everywhere, spreading its rivulets down alleys and side Sois and blocked up motorways, the storyteller knows exactly where she’s going. Swimming from intersection to bridge to underpass to mysteriously pulsing traffic lights, she leads us to the tributary where her story begins, and ends. Just follow her now, and listen:

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What goes around By Morgan Pryce THE heat in Soi Lang Ram is just as stubborn as in the rest of Bangkok. Like an unwanted beggar it clings to the street long after the sun disappears behind the high-rise buildings of Ramkhamhaeng Road. A large brown dog tries to escape and sprawls in the entrance of one of half a dozen convenience stores across the street from Rajamangala Stadium. He is mercifully free of mange and secure in his status as the temporary pet of the middle-aged woman who sells grilled meat on the corner. A chatty gang of motorcycle drivers have a smoke and a drink nearby. The dog doesn´t mind. They are always good for a pat and a stroke. The dog has known different times. Hungry times. Lonely times. He knows well the impermanence of existence. Someone takes a large stride over the dog. The automatic door opens and a cool breeze from inside wafts over him. The dog’s eyes close. He yawns, his chest heaves – “Hhhhh...” The archer steps over the brown dog, wary it might bite. But the dog does not move and the archer hurries on into the convenience store. Careful that bow and arrows do not catch on the shelves, the archer takes a drink from the fridge and smiles at her reflection in the refrigerator doors. Just a few years ago, when the archers first moved into the grounds next to the stadium, people stared at the sight of an archer in full gear. They used to gather behind them at practice and watch every move as the archers raised their bows, took aim and loosened their arrows at the target, a good 70 meters away. Then archers in wheelchairs joined them and easily shot at targets at just the same distance, and it caused a stir. Eventually, some onlookers joined in, many of them children. Countless arrows disappeared under the grass or into the black-watered ditch, taut string whipped soft tissue, and forearms bruised to a concert of cries of pain and curses. Beginners stood side by side with national teams, aiming not at 70 metres but at 7. Of course, most of them soon disappeared again and never got to enjoy the new shooting

he Bangkok Women’s Writers Group, founded in 2001, and led by Anette Pollner (who also writes the recurring ‘moon intro’ stories in this series in her famous neo psychedelic style), is where creative women from all over the world meet to workshop their writing in a supportive and inspiring environment. Many of our members are published and prize winning authors, but we are open to all women who are passionate about writing, including complete beginners. The BWWG has published a Thai English language bestseller, ‘Bangkok Blondes,’ and various pamphlets. We regularly give readings around town and have been part of international festivals and cultural exchanges. Please contact bkk_writers@yahoo.com for more information. This month’s storyteller is Morgan Pryce, author of many stories, including ‘The Naga,’ Scimitar Press, UK, 2014. She currently works on several novels at the same time. Morgan enjoys life in Bangkok as a nighttime fiction writer at large, daytime academic at Ramkhamhaeng University, and sometime blogger on WordPress.

range with its roofed stand and the state-of-the-arts cover that now keeps arrows above ground. It takes commitment to be an archer. The archer pays and steps out of the convenient store. It is too dark to see the range now, too dark to shoot. The archer waits until finally a taxi stops and, after one last longing look at the entrance across the street, she gets in and drives off – “Hhhhh...” The taxi driver looks into his rear mirror. His customer has been fidgeting for an hour now, ever since they entered this blasted Soi. He warned him, of course he did. But the customer insisted, said he knew this Soi well and that it wasn’t too bad. So much for that. This is as bad as traffic gets. It was alrightish until the red light between Srinakarin Road and Huamark, but as soon as they turned round the corner – kapow! Bumper to bumper. No movement for twenty minutes. None at all. Then a mad dash (haha) as they crept forward almost the entire length of a car. Brilliant. One hour later, they’re now almost at the back entrance of Rajamangala Stadium. “I used to teach here,” his passenger says, pointing at ABAC as they crawl past. “Some twenty years ago, you know?” No, he doesn’t know and he doesn’t care. “Odd, this used to be a small side street. No traffic at all. Whatever happened here?” Well, what happened is that they finished the bloody stadium. That’s what. And that this is not a cosy cul-de-sac anymore but a shortcut every idiot between Lamsalee and Rama IX has been using those past ten years. “Oh, oh, what’s this? This is new!” His customer flattens his nose against the window. The taxi driver, too, looks at the street restaurant right next to them and its turning spits. They are laden with salt-crusted fish. He realises that he’s hungry and tries to remember the last time he has eaten today. Must have been hours ago. What he wouldn’t give to be able to park his taxi and join the eaters. But he needs to keep driving at least until midnight. Needs a few short routes, too. They make

money. Being stuck in traffic like this doesn’t. Why the hell did he ever agree to take this know-it-all here? Why didn’t he just do what every driver in their right mind would’ve done and said no? Because he’s old school, that’s why. A true Bangkokian taxi driver. Not one of those nay-sayers who’ve been crowding the streets of late and ruin things for everyone. He accepts everyone and drives them to their destination. However long it takes. Even here. Even if nothing moves for an hour. “You know what,” his customer suddenly says, “I’ll just get off here. That fish looks too good to pass up.” He pays, gets off, and heads towards the succulent fish. The taxi driver grabs a water bottle. The car in front inches forward. The taxi driver steps on the gas pedal and moves on as well, looking for his next customer – “Hhhhh...” Four plates. One full of fish bones, two scraped clean except for the odd rice corn, debris of mint, cabbage and string beans on the fourth. All that is left of the ice cubes in the pink plastic container is a puddle of lukewarm water. Daeng looks at Som: “Did you bring your running shoes?” “Yeah. But, really, I don’t think I can run now, I’m much too full,” Som says and manages not to burp. “Come on, we promised Por Khun that we’d run around his monument a hundred times if we passed our final exams,” Daeng says. Som looks at Daeng. In the cold light of the street restaurant’s halogen lamps he looks even leaner than he does in normal light. Som sighs. For three years, he and Daeng spent almost every evening by the lake in front of the Ramkhamhaeng Monument, hoping to catch a glimpse of the crocodile. In their first semester, someone told them that any student who sees the crocodile in the lake will pass all their exams and graduate with honours. During the three years that followed, they saw plenty of snap turtles and countless fish. But no crocodile. Not even a plastic one. So they had to resort to plan B and the solemn promise of a hundred jogs around the monument.

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Expat Women

BWWG|Monsoon Midnights

Som looks at his mobile phone. Almost ten o’clock. There should not be too many people left on campus now. Good. The very thought of anyone watching him as he wobbles and huffs round the statue of King Ramkhamhaeng is enough to kill his good mood. So what if he promised. Does a student have to keep a promise they made in their first semester? Som shakes his head. Maan, the Evil One, must be putting these thoughts into his head. He tries to focus on how night after night, as they sat by the lake, they saw students circling the Ramkhamhaeng Monument, payment for exams passed and grades achieved. Yes, they do. Have to keep their promise that is. “Come on, Som. We’ll sit by the lake for a while and feed the turtles. And then we’ll run.” This run is inevitable. Even if they see the elusive crocodile tonight. A promise is a promise. Som gets up and hurries after Daeng – “Hhhhh...” No one leaves the tables at the street restaurants behind Ramkhamhaeng University unobserved. Many eyes watch the customers leave, but any good predator chooses its prey not only from what it can see: all senses at the disposal of the hunter are involved. For Yoong! smell is paramount. She can smell sweaty armpits and cheesy feet from miles away. Well. Maybe not miles. But she can smell them far enough. A shark detects traces of blood in the water, Yoong! senses human sweat. She may not look as fearsome as a shark and she is far more vulnerable, of course. But while sharks barely attack the human population, Yoong! and her kind thrive on human blood. There. A passer-by draws her attention. His last shower must have been a lifetime ago, yum! He stands still just long enough for Yoong! to launch herself from her twig. She settles on his foot, and begins to feed. Whoa. Whoa! This blood is...Yoong feels...elated...Her mind relaxes, wanders, and goes – “Hhhhh...” He swats at the mosquito on his foot, but his heart is not in it. He doesn’t like to hurt animals. He emerges from the crack under the old building and looks around, glad that Bangkok

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never sleeps. “What’s the time?” he asks two young men in running gear, one as fat as the other is skinny. They give him a quick look-over and hurry on. He sees them turn into the little Soi before the Inter Place Hotel and grins. Not his fault if they decide to walk in lonely side-streets in the middle of the night, bloody drunk too, seeing the fat one can’t even walk straight. Won’t be his fault if they hold on to their bags and need clobbering. He at least doesn’t discriminate. Thai or foreigner, male or female and anything in between, young or old – he gives them all what they deserve. Shouldn’t have pushed him into it, right? Bet they have second thoughts now. But it’s too late now. He has become good at what he does. It’s a profession like every other. Practise is what it takes. He’s had plenty. He follows the two young men into the dark street like a shadow, takes out his knife. Repeat three times in different Sois and you’re home free. He grins. Life is good. When the sun rises, he is safely back and asleep in his underground den, dreaming of riches and fame. He does not notice the old house shift, just enough to close a nagging crack between floor and underground – “Hhhhh...” The moon has made it to the other side of the sky. It sheds a stingy light on the streets where the lava has darkened down, showing only sporadic sparks of fast moving fluorescence. In the city, everything is intimately connected in a continuous flow of cause and effect, ignited by proximity. And at the same time, experience is constantly fragmented by disparate elements that have nothing in common with each other except the city itself. And our illusion. I return to my vantage point before the moon, in turn, falls below the horizon. From up here, the city looks calm like a map. But underneath, the crimson particles are dancing the mad choreography of existence. We will see the moon rise again next month, when Monsoon Midnights returns. Anette Pollner, leader of the BWWG

Expat Women

Education |News

School Report Musical theatre for kids KIS class of 2014 celebrates record results

THIS year’s graduating class of KIS International School scored an impressive average score of 35 points on their IB Diplomas. This is well over the global average of 29.1 points and better than 80% of all students worldwide attempting the diploma. On pupil, Earn Kaweeyanun, achieved a perfect score of 45 points, which places him in the top 0.25 percent of all IB Diploma takers in 2014 across the world. Other notable achievements include a pass rate for KIS students of 96%, compared to 79% of students worldwide. Nine of the awarded diplomas were in the top 10% of diploma takers worldwide, and four were in the top four percent. With their impressive academic achievement, the graduates were accepted at 85 top universities around the world, and they received scholarships to these universities worth more than one million US Dollars.

Nist Kids Catering puts fun into food

THE world may be in the grip of fast food culture but there’s plenty of evidence at NIST International School that, when given the opportunity, kids still enjoy cooking. Run by Design Technology teacher Natalie Lindon, the school’s Nist Kids Catering club helps students develop the fundamentals of food preparation and how to plan large-scale events. Over the past year, 15 students from Years 8 to 10 were taught how to create a variety of canapés and other tasty snacks, and they recently put their skills to the test by catering for breakfasts and board meetings, and even helped create food for the IB art exhibition. Beyond simply working in the kitchen, the club teaches students to plan and organize events, take initiative and work together as a team – British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver would be impressed. www.nist.ac.th

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BUDDING young thespians can learn new skills and meet new friends by joining the Musical Theatre for Kids Workshop at The Hop in Silom on Sept 5-7, and Sept 12-13. Hosted by Kristen and Youngji, two professional working artists, this special weekend series will incorporate learning the current workshop’s show, The Jungle Book, plus acting/stage techniques and skills (breathing, projection, posture, blocking, motivation, improvisation and characterization) through exercises and games. The last hour of every class sees the children create the backdrop of the show with Youngji, a Korean artist. Spaces are limited to 15 children. B5,500. The Hop, Silom Rd (between Sois 18 and 20). Tel: 080 909 5131 www.facebook.com/musicaltheatreforkids

IPN Event

How to talk to your kids about sex – by Dr. Pansak Sugraroek

THE International Parenting Network (IPN) will gather on Tues Sept 30 at the Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand to hear guest speaker Dr. Pansak Sugraroek discuss how parents can talk to their kids about sex. During the talk Dr. Pansak will explore when is the best time for parents to raise the subject with children; how to avoid awkward moments; how to teach kids to make healthy choices; and more. Dr. Pansak is the Medical Director of Vitalife Wellness Center, the OBYN/Reproductive Endocrinologist at Bumrungrad International Hospital, and also an assistant professor at Mahidol University. 6.30pm-8.30pm. Free for IPN cardmembers; B600 for nonmembers (includes presentation, handouts, light dinner, one glass of wine and soft drinks). Tel: 081 826 2399 www.ipnthailand.com

School Report

Promotion|Harrow

Harrow students sHine on stage Parents and teachers wowed by pupils’ outstanding talent ■ MUCH of the allure of Bangkok lies in the finding of gems, those small, beautiful moments when time, place and talent collide to offer an exceptional experience of beauty. Harrow’s 2014 Scholars Concert was one such event: a coincidence of superb talent in beautiful surroundings. Normally set on grand staging to much fanfare, Harrow International School concerts have a reputation for excellence and grandeur. The Scholar’s Concert, the final musical event of a busy calendar, exhibits the top tier of musical talent in a school with a reputation for outstanding commitment to music. It is always sure to be a highlight of the year.

No disappointment to high expectations, this year’s concert was an intimate affair, a showing of years of dedicated work by a team of outstanding talent. The evening was hosted in the Tewa Hotel, a secluded and quietly

romantic getaway carefully tucked south of Chaengwattana. Tables served by the hotel offered food and drink to match the performance: delicate, carefully practiced presentations of quality. The performers of the night reflected their surroundings: playing in front of the gardens and water features of the hotel, the student instrumentalists and singers were examples of growth and beauty. The range of talent exhibited by the school stretched from an exceptional rendition of Rachmaninoff’s piano works to the jazz interpretations of Sinatra classics. The performers were an array of rising stars; their talents proved exceptional on the night. Their many teachers and coaches, ably led by the exceptional Director of Music, Mr Christopher Johnson, are right to be proud of the roll they played in bringing to the stage such vibrant artists. Enjoyed by all in attendance, it was a night of class, style and high entertainment. The next major concert on the Harrow calendar is staged January 22, a Gala lakeside event held under the stars to great fanfare, a red carpet, evening gowns, bubbly, and the music of London’s West End and New York’s Broadway. – By Peter Brant Fraser Fotheringham www.harrowschool.ac.th

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Expat Women

Shopping|New products

FURNitURE FOR LESS ■ FURNITURE and decorative items from over 100 leading

manufacturers will go on sale at wholesale prices at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center from Sept 20-28. Expect to find furniture for the bedroom, living room, dining room and kitchen, plus kitchen equipment, household electrical appliances, alarm systems, automatic door systems, home decorative items, cleaning supplies and more. Open each day 11am-9pm. www.qsncc.com

talking

Shop Hot products and stores demanding your attention

SaMSUNG SLiMS DOWN ■ SAMSUNG has just released

its thinnest and lightest Galaxy Tab S tablet to date, featuring a 10.5 inch model weighing just 465g (B19,900), and an 8.4 inch model at 294g (B16,900). This easy-to-wield tablet boasts a Super AMOLED Screen and Adaptive Display Technology, which means you can expect a great visual experience on the train, in your office, and even on a sunny beach. The tablet runs multiple apps with ease, and besides its 16GB internal memory it offers a MicroSD Card slot (up to 120GB). Available in Titanium Bronze or Dazzling White. Available now at all leading stores

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BOHEMiaN H&M ■ FEMININE meets masculine in H&M’s Autumn/Winter Collection, which goes on sale this month featuring adapted men’s blazers, biker and aviator jackets designed to be worn over draped tops and dresses. Think silk crepe and chiffon for the most delicate slip dresses, velvet and fine cashmere for tops and sweaters, and distressed leather and fake fur for the jackets. Key accessories include pointed boots in metallic or patchworked leather, mules, and caps trimmed with fake fur. Available from Sept 4 at H&M Siam Paragon

PROtECtiON FOR FaBRiCS ■ IF you have a habit of spilling red wine on your clothes,

carpet or sofa, pick up a bottle of SurfaceScreen. This nifty new spray uses nanotechnology to create a chemical-free mist that forms an invisible protective coating on clothes, shoes, upholstery, and furniture. After the product’s applied, most spilt liquids can be wiped away with ease and, most importantly, without leaving a stain. Starts at B490 for a 120ml bottle. www.surfacescreenthailand.com

SHOPPER’S PaRaDiSE ■ THE eighth edition of the Shopping Paradise & Beauty Parade will once again feature clothes, leathers, shoes, accessories, gadgets, handicrafts, and a wide range of health and beauty products – all offered at specially reduced prices. Oct 2-5 at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.qsncc.com

Social|Whisgars

Expat Women

Ladies Night aNd Lipstick â&#x2013; MORE than 30 ladies turned up for the launch of Whisgars Lipstick Society, a social networking party featuring drinks, free manicures, fun activities and hot gossip. The event will be held monthly at the same venue â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Whisgars on Sukhumvit 23.

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Expat Women

Advice|Problems solved

Ask the experts

Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

Expat life getting you down? Don’t suffer in silence. Send in your problems and get advice from professional counsellors Anette and Johanna

Stuck in a financial rut

What you describe in your letter sounds as if you are heading towards a burn-out. You are tired and life seems to be only work and duty. And indeed, you will have to change your life patI am in trouble. I work two shifts a tern in order to survive. You will have to make some important day in the hospital to make ends meet, decisions. but still it is not enough. Now I am so This will not be easy as you have to dare to encounter yourtired of all the running and working self regarding the issue ‘how much should a daughter support and I feel life has nothing left to offer her parents?’ It is a wonderful principle that children assist parme. It is like work and sleep and work and still no money ents when they are getting older, but at the same time children for some fun things to do. need to set boundaries regarding the extent of their support to I have not taken a holiday in years. Even during the their parents. national holidays I just keep working. My parents and In your situation, would it be unreasonable to ask your siblings do have time together, but I only work. I haven’t siblings what they can contribute, too? You also need to look been home to see my parents for years because when I go realistically into what is enough to live on for yourself, and then home I have to take them presents. I cannot take anydecide how much you can continue to contribute to others. thing that is significant, so I stay away. I feel lonely and Find out how you can pay off your loan as soon as possible, left out by my family. calculate your personal living costs, and then you will be able My parents do talk to me on the phone, but usually to see what is left over to give to your parents. In other words, it’s just to ask if I can send them some cash (I normally you have to make a budget for yourself based on your monthly send B3,000 per month). income. The reason I have financial difficulties is because I You mentioned that your father used the money you providtook out a loan, and it seems it will never be paid off. ed from the loan to support his alcohol habit. Is this the reason I took this loan for my father so he could plant rice to why your parents keep asking you for more money? make an income. But it turns out he went ‘partying,’ and When you have arranged your own finances, and hopefully spent a lot of cash on drinking. There is still no rice in have been able to pay off your loan, the fields, and I am stuck with a loan. you could look into working a little How do I get out of this mess? How can I less and treating yourself to some fun get some hope and find fun again in my life? and rest (which should be included in your budget plan). Nid, 38, from Bangkok If you can manage to save more money from your monthly salary in the future, do not give it to your parents, but keep it in a Dear Nid, savings account for ‘days of trouble,’ like when you’re ill and need ■ The issue you write about to visit a doctor. is a common problem among It is a good principle that daughters in Asia. Out of children take responsibility and respect, love and gratitude they tor ec ir care for their parents, but it D l want to help their parents, but it nica is the Cli the oning MS r. She trained in eK is wise to set limits and keep D a nn never seems to be enough. • Joha ounseling Cente of NCS C ds and Australia. some funds as a ‘back-up. ’ You are working two shifts an

already, and you feel very tired, so working more hours is not an option.

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Netherl

Not ready to leave Thailand

I am what people call a ‘Digital Nomad.’ I have a small online business with clients all over the world, and have been living in Bangkok for the last six years. Bangkok is a modern Asian mega city that fulfils all my requirements: fast and reliable internet access, a buzzing community of local and international entrepreneurs and artists, transport infrastructure, and great restaurants. I’ve met a lot of exciting people here, and many other digital nomads. In short, I have a whole life here. Of course I understand that, since I am not a Thai citizen, and since visas are always short term, I have no intrinsic right to stay here. But while I’ve always thought I would probably leave at some point, I always hoped that this would be a planned exit, with a long term strategy, and hopefully with many visits after wards. But now the situation has become ver y difficult in Thailand for people like me. For months we have heard how the visa requirements will change, and I realised that I would not be able to live here any more. I could have left it to the last moment, when maybe the situation will change for the better, but I realised that the constant uncertainty is undermining my emotional well-being, and therefore also my business. I just don’t feel welcome here any more. So now, ver y reluctantly, I have to leave Thailand and move to a different countr y, long before I was ready. I am ver y sad. I don’t want to go. It feels as if a part of me is torn away. What can I do to ease the transition? I’m heartbroken.

Nathan, 31, from the UK

Dear Nathan,

■ I can understand how painful it is to have to leave before you are ready. You have built a life in Thailand and contributed in many ways. And it is also very painful to feel you are no longer welcome in a place that you love. Quite apart from the practical and financial issues, this experience can make you feel homeless in a hostile world. It can also re-activate abandonment issues from your past, and shatter the illusion that life (or at least your life) is safe and comfortable. I don’t know if that is possible for you, but can you allow yourself a time of grieving? Starting all over again in a different country can be very stressful. Which means that you may not feel you have the time or energy to process what has happened to you here. But it needs to be processed eventually, and the best time is now.

When your life is cut off in this way, what you experience is a great loss, similar to the loss of a long term job or a relationship or even a bereavement. The human mind reacts to all such losses in a similar way. First we are in shock (which often helps us to survive), and then we go through many strong and conflicting emotions. We need to absorb the loss and reconstruct our place in the world, and that takes time and effort. Hopefully, since your business is non-local and portable (and that makes you a lot more independent than most people!), you will not experience too much disruption there, but of course you will lose your support networks of social life and friends. It can also feel disempowering to be at the receiving end of outside actions that forcibly change the course of our lives. However much we try, our control over our own lives is limited. On the other hand, this is true in many ways for everyone. And if you take time for your grieving process, you can maybe take this opportunity to build up emotional resilience, as you already have built up resilience in your portable business. I think it is very wise of you to recognise that your business depends on your emotional well-being, and that you aim to protect both yourself and your finances by looking after yourself. Right now, if you can, listen to yourself and take care of your needs. Honour what you have lost, and remember both the good and the bad. Bangkok was part of your life for six years, and no one can take that away. No one can take away who you are. • Anette Pollner of seven internatiAdv. Dipl. Couns., is one I hope you will find Counseling Cente onal counsellors at NCS trained in London r in Saphan Kwai. She a good place where you an d the US an staff counsellor at Bart’s Hospitad worked as a can be happy and rebuild l in London. your life.

Contact details: ncs-counseling.com, anette.p@ncs-counseling.com, Tel: 02 279 8503 Send your problems to: thebigchillimagazine@gmail.com

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Expat Women

Health|Headaches

How to stop headaches before they strike Give skull-thumping pains the boot by following these handy tips from nutrition coach Judith Coulson

■ HEADACHES can be a real pain in the neck – and head, of course. Ranging from an annoying dull ache that can make you feel low, to a debilitating throbbing that puts any activity out of the question, they can strike at almost any time and don’t give two hoots whether or not you have an important project to finish, a date with your partner, or an important netball game to play. The good news is that headaches are fairly simple to cure. And it all starts with identifying the triggers. Here’s a rogue’s gallery of the main skull-pounding culprits. Smoking

Smoking is known to trigger headaches and not just for the person holding the cigarette. Secondhand smoke contains nicotine, which causes blood vessels in the brain to narrow. Giving up cigarettes or reducing exposure to secondhand smoke appears especially helpful to people with cluster headaches. These are extremely painful one-sided headaches that can also cause eye and nose symptoms.

Strong scents

Strong smells, even nice ones, can trigger migraines in many people. Why this happens is unclear, but the odors may stimulate the nervous system. The most common culprits are paint, perfume, air fresheners (room and car), and certain types of flowers.

Poor posture

You don’t have to work up a sweat to build pressure in the head and neck muscles. Slouching at your desk will do the job, too. Common forms of poor posture include hunching your shoulders, using a chair with no lower-back support, staring at a monitor that is too low or too high, and cradling a phone between your ear and shoulder. If you have frequent tension headaches, take a good look at your workspace.

Cheese

A migraine trigger for some people is aged cheese, including blue cheese, cheddar, parmesan, and Swiss. The culprit may be a substance called tyramine. The longer a food ages, the more tyramine it contains.

Red wine

Tyramine is also found in red wine and other alcoholic drinks. Other ingredients in wine may contribute to headaches as well. Because alcohol increases blood flow to the brain, the effects may be even more intense.

Cold cuts/processed foods

Processed meats, such as cold cuts, have two strikes against them. They often contain tyramine, as well as food additives such as nitrites, which may trigger headaches in some people. Headaches caused by food additives are usually felt on both sides of the head (in contrast to a classic migraine, which strikes one side at a time).

Skipping meals

Hunger headaches aren’t always obvious. If you skip a meal, your head could start to ache before you realize you’re hungry. The trouble is a dip in blood sugar. But don’t try to cure a hunger headache with a candy bar. Sweets cause blood sugar to spike and then drop even lower.

Hair accessories

How you wear your hair can take a toll on your head. A tight ponytail may strain the connective tissue in the scalp, leading to a hairdo headache. Headbands, braids, and tightfitting hats can create the same effect. If this is the cause of your headache, letting your hair down usually brings fast relief

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Caffeine

In moderation, caffeine is often beneficial. In fact, it’s found in many headache medications. But chain-chugging coffee can be a cause of headaches. And, if you’re hooked on caffeine,

cutting back abruptly may only make things worse. Caffeine withdrawal is another headache trigger.

Stress

Anything that boosts your stress level can make you more vulnerable to tension headaches or migraines. The exact mechanism for these headaches is unclear and may involve different factors. A heightened sensitivity of nerve pathways in the brain that relay pain may play a role.

Weather

When the temperature changes, so does the likelihood of developing a migraine. Whether it’s a heat wave or a cold snap, the change can trigger a headache. Sunny, hot days are another common culprit. Rain or changes in barometric pressure also may lead to headaches. While you can’t change the weather, you can wear sunglasses on a bright day, minimize dehydration, and avoid midday sun.

WHAT YOU CAN DO • Identify your triggers

If you are suffering from regular headaches start keeping a headache diary. If you can identify your most common triggers, you may be able to cut off headaches before they start. Keep a daily log of foods you eat, stressful events, weather changes, and physical activity. Whenever you have a headache, record the time it starts and stops. This will help you find patterns, so you can try to avoid your personal triggers.

• Manage stress

Many people are able to manage migraines or tension headaches through stress-busting strategies. Although you can’t control the stressful events that may come your way, you can alter your response to those events. You may need to experiment with techniques such as meditation, cognitive behavior techniques, and massage to find what works for you.

• Stretch your legs

Moderate exercise is a powerful stress reliever. Walking is a great choice because it delivers an extra defense against tension headaches. When you walk, the swinging motion of your arms tends to relax the muscles in your neck and shoulders. Breaking up those knots may help diminish the root of some headaches.

• Balanced meals

Eating balanced meals throughout the day will help keep your blood sugar on an even keel. That means no more hunger headaches. Aim for meals and snacks that pair a protein with a complex carbohydrate, such as chicken breast with brown rice, and add fresh vegetables to each meal. And most importantly, drink enough water; dehydration is another common headache trigger.

Judith Coulson is a Medical Nutrition & Lifestyle Coach, specialized in drug-free disease prevention and health promotion for individuals and executive teams. Contact Judith@coulson-holding. com for an individual Food and Lifestyle Analysis and Consulting.

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Health

Insight|Profile

Bangkok pharmacy with a cure for a tight budget To counter the spiraling cost of hospital visits, more and more people are heading instead to their local drug store for advice and medications. Maxmilian Wechsler discovers a Bangkok pharmacy that is more interested in helping its customers than making a profit ■ AFTER food and drink, medications top the list of necessities for many people, especially as they get older and health problems start popping up. These days there are medications for almost anything, but the cost of effective treatments can be a burden, especially if they have to be taken every day. Most doctors will prescribe generic drugs if asked, but many new and effective treatments are not available in generic form, and they are likely to be expensive. An alternative plan is to find a reliable, well-stocked drug store with quality medications that are not overpriced. But this is not always easy, despite the large number of pharmacies in Bangkok. In a recent survey conducted by the The BigChilli of 40 Bangkok pharmacies at hospitals, shopping malls and on the street, many didn’t have particular medicines or were low on stocks of them. Some tried to sell medicines said to be “similar” to those requested because they didn’t stock them; others would sell only the whole package of medicines rather than individual strips. But most importantly, there was a huge difference in prices from store to store. Most pharmacies don’t have price tags on the medicines, meaning they can ask whatever they want, or think they can get. One of the best Bangkok pharmacies in terms of efficiency and price identified by our survey is Chula Bhesaj, located on Rama IV Road between Silom and Surawong roads. Busy around the clock,

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this family-run store has built up a big following amongst locals and foreigners since opening in 1988. In charge is Mrs Purita ‘May’ Metawattanakarn, an American-educated Thai, who explains the store’s name: “Chula because it is located opposite Chulalongkorn Hospital, and ‘bhesaj’ means pharmacist in Thai. “Our staff includes four family members who look after customers and stock. Three of sales people can speak English. We have four pharmacists. One of them is my older sister. “I am not a pharmacist but I underwent medical training in some specific areas. Most of the companies we buy from, including the ones making vitamins, assist in training our staff as well,” said May. “We have a large stock and variety of medicines. Everything is computerized, so we can get details to the customer immediately. “The companies we buy from either manufacture here or import from abroad, like GlaxoSmithKline and Diethelm. We don’t import directly ourselves, so I don’t know how much must be paid for imported medicines. The companies pay the import taxes,” May explained. “Companies come to us and show us what they have, and I decide what to order. All the medicines they offer have already been approved by the Thai Food and Drug Administration (FDA). However, as for supplement or diet medicines, they have to be checked for FDA approval. “Around 60% of our customers are private individuals. They may buy several months’ supply of medicines. We also sell medicines and other items to businesses, clinics, including many beauty clinics, and major private hospitals in Bangkok. If they don’t have enough medicines in stock they will come and buy here. This applies to clinics as well. We also sell to hotels,” she said.

May estimated that about 30% of customers are foreigners, and around 50% of these are from Myanmar. “They go to see a doctor in a hospital and then buy medicine from us because it is much cheaper. We also have customers from the Middle East and diplomats from various countries. “More than half our sales are medicines for chronic illnesses, meaning medicines that the patient needs to take continuously for conditions like heart disease, Alzheimer’s and so on. Around 20% of sales are for supplements like vitamins, fish oil and minerals. The rest is medical instruments – wheel chairs, suction tubes, items to dress wounds and so forth. Why do first class Bangkok hospitals purchase medicines from Chula Bhesaj? “Maybe they come to us because we

are close to them or because they can’t find what they need elsewhere. Like other customers, they know we have everything and always in stock. Often they will send a courier on motorcycle to our shop to collect medicines. “They also come to us because we have lower prices and because we have the latest medications.” May explained that it is common for people to come see a pharmacist first because they don’t want to pay for a doctor’s consultation. “When someone walks in and says they are sick and want some medicine, I will tell them to consult one of our pharmacists. We give them some medicine and tell them if they don’t feel better in a couple days to go see a doctor.” “We don’t care so much about profit. We care about the customers and we want to give them good service. We care about the quality of the medications we sell and we don’t cheat customers.” Some Bangkok pharmacies, including two big foreign franchises on Silom Road, sell exactly the same medicines for two or three times more than Chula Bhesaj. Although May didn’t want to go on record as saying that Chula Bhesaj is the cheapest pharmacy in Thailand, she was willing to state that 100% of medicines sold there are approved by the FDA and the store does everything it can to assure their quality. Perhaps the only drawback to Chula Bhesaj is that it doesn’t have a proper parking area. Customers who park on the street are sometimes, but not always, fined by the police.

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Green

spaces

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Park Life Swap concrete and cacophony for grass and serenity by visiting one of these lush oases in Bangkok Research by Amanda Jane De Silva Photographs by Chutinanta Boonyamarn, Sasithorn Danwirunhawanich, Jaran Lakawat

Benjakiti Park OPENED in 2004 in honour of Queen Sirikitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 72nd birthday, this 130-rai (approximately 21 hectares) park, built on what was once the Tobacco Monopoly, boasts a 2km walkway that attracts a fair number of morning and evening joggers around the lake (where you can go for a cruise on a pedal-powered swan boat). The park also has a dedicated bicycle lane completely removed from the pedestrian lane, so no chance of any unfortunate collisions. Bikes of all sizes can be rented for B40 per hour. Other facilities include playgrounds, a skateboard/freestyle bicycle ramp, a meditation area, and exercise zones. Ratchadaphisek Rd. (Located next to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center) Open daily 5am-8pm. TheBigChilli

Green

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Lumphini Park NEW York has Central Park; Bangkok has Lumphini. While The Big Apple’s green space may beat Bangkok’s for sheer size, our inner-city lung offers plenty of room for walking, running, relaxing, and dozing off under trees – just watch out for the monitor lizards clambering in and out of the ponds; we’ve heard they find exposed toes particularly tasty. The park opens early with a free-for-all aerobics session (another is held at 6pm), and it caters well for fitness fanatics thanks to its 2.5km running track (cycling is permitted from 3pm-10pm) and excellent Lumphini Youth Center Sports Club, which has a swimming pool, tennis courts, gym, and futsal pitches, and offers annual membership at just B100 (take your work permit). Visitors to the park can also rent paddleboats on the large central lake at B30 for 30 mins, and sometimes capture impromptu performances by practicing bands. The best time for music, though, is in December, when the park’s Palm Garden becomes the site for the annual Concert in the Park classical music festival. Pathum Wan (next to Silom BTS and MRT stations). Open daily 4.30am-9pm

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Chatuchak Park OFFERING a breezy respite from the din and heat of nearby Chatuchak Weekend Market, this well-maintained park is decorated with sculptures from six Asian countries and boasts a large central pond teeming with fish. Watch them in action from one of the bridges, or get a closer look by renting a boat. The parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Train Museum (open Sat and Sun from 7am-4pm) features an exhibition on the history of railways and automobiles in Thailand. Kampaengphet 1 Rd. (Chatuchak Park MRT or Mochit BTS). Open daily 4.30am-9pm.

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Green

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Saranrom Park SURROUNDED by the Grand Palace, Royal Cemetery, and Wat Pho, Saranrom Park has regal links (it was built in 1866 by King Rama IV as part of Saranrom Palace, located in the east of the Grand Palace) and its royal status shines through in its beautifully manicured landscape, nicely designed pond, and on-site architecture, including an old pavilion, a European-style fountain, and Chao Mae Takhien Tong Shrine (a former Chinese tower). Overall, it’s a great place to drop by if you want to take a break from sightseeing in the area. Located near the intersection of Charoenkrung and Rachini Roads (diagonally opposite Wat Pho near the Grand Palace). Open daily 5am-9pm

Romaneenart Park OPENED in 1993, this park is located on the grounds of what was once the ‘The Bangkok Special Prison, and it still retains some of the old features – such as the old guard towers and neo-classical buildings in the style of the King Rama V period. Visit the Corrections Museum, which is split between four buildings and charts the history of the penal system in Thailand, and you’ll ﬁnd plenty of reminders why it’s good to be a law abiding citizen. Siripong Rd. Samranrat Sub-district, Phra Nakhon District. Open daily 5am-9pm

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Suan Luang Rama IX Park THE largest green space in Bangkok also happens to be our favourite. Developed to commemorate H.M. the King’s 5th Cycle Birthday Anniversary in 1987, the park isn’t centrally located, but getting here doesn’t take too much effort (expect around a 30 mins taxi journey from Siam) and the leafy rewards are more than worth your time. Arrive early and spend the morning exploring the beautiful botanical garden as well as gardens inspired by different countries (including an American garden in a large futuristic dome, reminiscent of the Nevada desert, populated with cacti). Then settle down by the large central lake with a good book and an ice cream and relax in noise-free bliss. Soi Mu Ban Seri Villa Khrongkan 2, Nong Bon, Prawet. Open daily 5am-6pm. Admission: B10

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Green

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Benchasiri Park OPENED in 1992 to commemorate the 60th birthday of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit, this compact, lovingly maintained park may not be the quietest on our list (it’s located next to The Emporium Shopping Mall, and Sukhumvit Road runs along its entire frontage) but its lush trees muffle the din of the surrounding streets just enough to provide a relaxing ambience. Wander around the park’s central lake and you’ll spy no less than 18 contemporary scultpures, the biggest of which is a giant coin embossed with an image of the queen. Other facilities include a volleyball and basketball court, roller-skating zone, children’s playground, and a swimming pool. A Musical Fountain Show runs three times daily (6am-7am; 12pm-1pm; and 6pm-7pm). Sukhumvit Rd. Khlong Toei District (near Phrom Phong BTS station) Open daily 5am-9pm

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Suan Rot Fai Park A FORMER golf course that was recently transformed into a public urban landscape, this large park to the north of Chatuchak Weekend Market is perfect for cyclists. A 3km track weaves throughout the park and has a dedicated bike lane. Don’t have a bike? No problem. You can rent one from as little as B20 per day, depending on the model. You don’t just need to saddle up to enjoy what’s on offer here though. The park also has a large lake where you can rent canoes and peddle boats (B50 per hour), stations where you can rent mats to sit on (B20); sports courts, playgrounds, a driving range (50 balls for B80), and even a butterfly garden and insectarium (open Tues-Sun 8.30am-4.30pm). Kamphaengphet 3 Rd. (Mo Chit BTS, or Chatuchak Park MRT). Open daily 5am-9pm.

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Y O U R U L T I M A T E W H A T ’ S O N G U I D E F O R S E P T E M B E R 1 4

What’s on pArt pPerformance pSport pFootball pMovies & Albums pBooks

Operation Smile Thailand’s annual White Collar Benefit Fundraiser returns on Oct 9. Page 82.

Dance fest

Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance and Music starts this month Page 80

Dino pop

Purple dinosaur Barney is brining his singalong show to Bangkok Page 80

Buffalo racing That’s right. Buffalo racing. Watch the beasts in action in Chonburi Page 82

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What’s On|Exhibitions

Art

Until 28/9

Life is an Act

AS an entrepreneur in the wine and jewelry industries, it’s no surprise that photographer Rammy Narula has a keen eye for detail. Turning his focus to the blend of real and artificial elements found in everyday city life, here he explores how daily sidewalk interactions shape our individual realities. Garden Cafe Gallery, Neilson Hays Library, 195 Surawong Rd. Open Tues-Sun 9.30am-5pm (closed Mon) 02 233 1731 :neilsonhayslibrary.com

☎

Inspired by Khmer art

FEATURING prints, paintings, mixed media art and sculptures by 78 students from Silpakorn University’s Faculty of Painting, Sculpture and Graphic Arts, as well as several pieces specially created by art instructors and independent artists, this large exhibition comprises a whopping 220 works of art, each inspired by the beauty of Khmer artworks. Krung Thai Art Gallery, Yaowarat Branch Building, 260 Yaowarat Rd. Open Mon-Fri 9am-4pm; Sat 9am-5pm (closed Sun). 02 222 0137

☎

Until 12/10

Devi

9/9 30/9

THANET Awsinsiri’s latest exploration of the female form features eight large, piquant-hued paintings of naked women floating without context. Clothed in curiosity, the images prod viewers to examine their own notions of beauty and what it means to be beautiful. 100 Tonson Gallery, 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm. 02 684 1527 :100tonsongallery.com

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Plant, Delicacy, Delight

CREATED by Boonmee Sangkhum and Vipabhon Nilubon, this exhibition inspired by nature features two distinct disciplines – Sangkhum’s dark, Mezzotint prints, and Nilubon’s watercolour paintings. A visual clash, maybe, but when has nature been anything but diverse? Ardel Gallery of Modern Art, Boromrachachonnanee Rd. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-5.30pm (closed Mon). 02 422 2092 :ardelgallery.com

☎

Until 21/9

Vira’s Etching

Until 15/10

HERE’S your chance to see a rare series of prints by the late Thai artist Vira Jothaprasert (1934-2002), the watercolour and etching specialist fondly remembered for introducing Thai modern art to the world. Created between 1971-1977, this series focuses on daily life in Thailand and features twodimensional landscapes and portraits brought to life with watercolour highlights. Sombat Permpoon Gallery, 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1. Open daily 9am-8pm 02 254 6040 :sombatpermpoongallery.com

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What’s On|Performance

Stage

EVERY SUN

Jazz on Sukhumvit

SINCE launching at Checkinn 99 pub and restaurant two years ago, the weekly Jazz On Sukhumvit jam sessions (every Sun from 2pm-6pm) have become a real Bangkok institution. Local and international artists (including some of the city’s finest jazz musicians) take turns showcasing their skills, so you can expect to enjoy great music and a lively atmosphere for free – the perfect way to spend a Sunday afternoon. We’ve been told Checkinn 99 will host its second annual Jazz Day Fest in November, so expect more info in next month’s issue. checkinn99.net

TPO’s Festival Finale

THE Thailand Philharmonic Orchestra’s ninth season is set to end in fitting fashion with a full performance of Richard Strauss’ epic Ein Heldenleben – on the conductor’s 150th birthday, no less. Chief Conductor Gudni Emilsson 19/9 is joined by German pianist Bernd 29/9 Glemser (pictured), who will also present Rachmaninoff’s Piano Concerto No. 3. Performance starts on Sept 19 at 7pm; on Sept 20 at 4pm.

Music Auditorium Mahidol University Salaya (free shuttle service from Wongwianyai BTS Station). Tickets: B300-B500 02 262 3456 music.mahidol.ac.th

17/10 19/10 Barney Live in Concert

JOIN purple dinosaur Barney as he celebrates his birthday with a concert of his much-loved (well, by the kids at least) singalong songs such as Mr.Knickerbocker, Dino Dance, Baby Bop Hop, and Rock ‘n Roll Star. Performances in English will be held on Oct 18 at 3pm and 6pm, and on Oct 19 at the same times. Tickets range B800-B2,200 thaiticketmajor.com

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Bangkok’s International Festival of Dance & Music

13/9 26/10

NOW in its 16th year, Thailand’s largest annual performing arts festival returns this month with another genre-hopping programme of concerts, operas, classical ballets, contemporary dances, and even some jazz. Performances by UK-based swing band The Jive Aces, China’s National Acrobatic Troupe, Cirque Eclipse; and the Israel Philharmonic Orchestra are just three of the highlights. Find the full programme at www.bangkokfestivals.com. Thailand Cultural Centre Main Hall, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd. thaiticketmajor.com

17/10 26/10

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World Film Festival of Bangkok

INDEPENDENT films from around the globe will hit the silver screen in Bangkok next month as part of the 12th annual World Film Festival. Short films, experimental films, documentaries and animations are all in the mix, with submissions from Latin America, Asia, Southeast Asia, and the European Union Film Festival. Film workshops and film-related talks will also take place. Expect the full programme to be listed online soon. worldﬁlmbkk.com

What’s On|Movies & Music

18/9

MAZE RUNNER

BASED on the best-selling novel by James Dashner, this post-apocalyptic sci-fi actioner stars Dylan O’Brien (The Internship) as Thomas, a young man who wakes up trapped in a massive maze with no memory of the outside world. Together with the maze’s other inhabitants, known as Gladers, Thomas must search for clues about his past to discover his true purpose and find a way out.

Screen

4/9 BOYHOOD

ARE YOU HERE

MATTHEW Weiner (Mad Men) makes his big-screen directorial debut in this rib-tickling film about a womanizing local weatherman, Steve Dallas (Owen Wilson), who helps his off-the-grid best buddy, Ben Baker (Zach Galifianakis), defend his inheritance from the clutches of his formidable sister (Amy Poehler).

SHOT over a period of 12 years with the same cast, director Richard Linklater’s groundbreaking ode to growing up explores the world as seen through the eyes of a boy named Mason (Ellar Coltrane), who, through the course of the film, becomes a young adult. The film also stars Ethan Hawke and Patricia Arquette as Mason’s parents, and newcomer Lorelei Linklater as his sister. Already released in the west, the film holds a whopping 99 percent rating on review aggregator Rottentomatoes.com.

11/9

BEFORE I GO TO SLEEP

25/9

AFTER suffering a terrible attack twenty years ago, Christin Lucas (Nicole Kidman) is unable to retain memories and wakes up every morning thinking she is in her twenties. One day, terrible truths begin to emerge, and she begins to question everything she thinks she knows about her life, and this includes those closest to her – her doctor (Mark Strong) and her husband (Colin Firth). The film is based on the best-selling novel by S.J. Watson. Movie screenings are subject to change. Keep up to date at majorcineplex.com

MEMORY LANE

New albums THE KOOKS Listen (Release date: Sept 2)

SLASH World On Fire (Release date: Sept 16)

THE VINES Wicked Nature (Release date: Sept 2)

THE DRUMS Encyclopedia (Release date: Sept 23)

RYAN ADAMS Ryan Adams (Release date: Sept 8)

WEEZER Everything Will Be Alright In The End (Release date: Sept 30)

KAREN O Crush Songs (Release date: Sept 9)

CARIBOU Our Love (Release date: Oct 7)

TOPPING THE UK CHARTS SEPT 1994

1. Whigfield – Saturday Night 2. Bon Jovi – Always 3. Kylie Minogue – Confide In Me 4. Corona – The Rhythm Of The Night 5. Luther Vandross & Mariah Carey – Endless Love 6. Cyndi Lauper – Hey Now (Girls Just Want To Have Fun) 7. Michelle Gayle – Sweetness 8. Boyz II Men – I’ll Make Love To You 9. Lisa Loeb & Nine Stories – Stay (I Missed You) 10. Snap featuring Summer – Welcome To Tomorrow TheBigChilli 81

What’s On|Outdoor fun

Sport The Singha Trail Running Festival

THE inaugural Singha Trail Running Festival, held in Chiang Rai’s stunning Singha Park, aims to open trail running to all with a comprehensive array of distances (3km, 10km, and 21km) tailored for families, running enthusiasts, and running newbies. Immersing runners in bamboo forests, terraced rice paddies, and pristine tea plantations, the race is perfect for anyone looking for a slice of adventure in the north.  ama-events.com

7/10 Buffalo Racing

THAT’S right. Buffalo racing. Every year in Chonburi (100km east of Bangkok, near Pattaya) locals gather to witness these beasts charging down a 100 meter strip in front of the town’s municipal offices. While the buffalo are slower than horses, they run with surprising speed, and the rider of the fastest always goes home with a fabulous prize. Adding to the fun are Thai folk concerts, a buffalo beauty pageant, and a beauty competition for women where the winner is declared ‘Miss Buffalo’ – quite an honour, apparently. Regular buses to Chonburi from Bangkok cost around B40 (two hour trip).  tourismthailand.org

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14/9 9/10 Mizuno River Kwai International Half Marathon THE 33rd edition of Thailand’s oldest road race will once again see a maximum of 1,500 international racers tackling a scenic course which begins and ends in front of the River Kwai Village Resort. Don’t have the stamina for a half marathon? You can always opt for the 10km course which runs alongside the main event.  goadventureasia.com

Operation Smile Fight Night

OPERATION Smile Thailand’s annual White Collar Benefit Fundraiser will once again see several well-known expats get in the ring to box each other in the name of charity. Held in Dusit Thani Bangkok’s Napalai Ballroom, the event also features free-flow drinks, gourmet food, and live entertainment. Dusit Thani Bangkok. Ticketas: B3,900 per person. Proceeds beneﬁt Operation Smile Thailand 09 2774 9327  operationsmile.org

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Amari Watergate & BMW Thailand Charity Midnight Run

HELP raise money for Chalerm Prakiat HRH Princess Sirindhorn School, and Baan Gerda, a children’s village project in Lopburi, by taking to the streets at midnight to compete in this popular annual run. Split between 6km and 12km distances (along Petchaburi and Sukhumvit Roads), the run gives participants the chance to win airline tickets, hotel stays, and more great prizes in a grand raffle. The race starts and finishes at the Amari Watergate Bangkok hotel.  goadventureasia.com

What’s On|Soccer

Football Focus By Paul Hewitt

TPL takes a break as National Teams head to Korea for Asian Games

THE TPL disappeared on Aug 24 and won’t reappear until Oct 8. The reason for the hiatus is the 2014 Asian Games in Incheon, South Korea. For the uninitiated or for those who get their Asian Games and SEA Games and Asian Cups and AFF Cups mixed up, the Asian Games is basically an Asia-only Olympics. As such, it contains an under-23 football competition just like the Olympics and Thailand are taking part in both the men’s and women’s tournaments (men’s is under-23, women’s is full national team). The men can take some confidence into the competition as they won the last under-23 tournament they contested at the 27th SEA Games in Burma last year, but the Asian Games is a big step up from the ASEAN-only SEA Games. However, the Thai men have historically done fairly well at the Asian Games – losing semi-finalists

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in 2002 and two quarter final appearances in 2006 and 2010 – and as such found themselves in Pot 1 for the group stage draw. That favourable seeding produced group stage opponents in the form of the Maldives, Timor-Leste and Indonesia. It’s all but unthinkable that the men won’t reach the last 16 where a kind draw could allow progression to the quarters at least. The men’s first group game, against the Maldives, kicks off at 15:00 TST on Sept 15; the second, against Timor Leste, at 18:00 on the 18, and the final group game against Indonesia also gets underway at 18:00 on the 22 Sept. It’s then likely that they will play their last 16 match on Sept 25 with a quarter final appearance on the 28th. The semis and final are scheduled for Sept 30 and Oct 2. Kiattisak Senamuang (“Zico”) is again at the helm as he was for the SEA Games last year. Unsurprisingly, the national team’s leading scorer and holder of the record number of caps has plenty of Asian Games experience under his belt, including scoring one of Thailand’s two goals in a memorable extra-time victory over South Korea in the quarter-finals in Bangkok in 1998. That campaign ended with a 3-0 defeat to Kuwait in the semis. Zico’s coaching star will continue to rise if he can produce something similar in 2014. Our women’s side will go into their competition if not quite one of the favourites then at least a strong outsider. The ladies also won football gold at the last SEA Games, but have since followed up that achievement by qualifying for the 2015 World Cup. They are currently ranked 29th in the world and fifth in Asia – numbers the men’s team can only dream of. This has been achieved without a proper league and with precious little

investment and development. Without wanting to take anything away from the girls’ achievements, it’s fair to say that their lofty FIFA ranking can partly be attributed to the fact that the women’s game is neglected to an even greater extent than it is in Thailand by most of the other countries in the region. At these Asian Games, just eleven women’s football teams will take part (45 nations are taking part in the Games as a whole) and just two of those are from South-East Asia: Thailand and Vietnam. The awkward figure of eleven means that there are two groups of four and one of three. Thailand are in with the Maldives, India and South Korea. The Koreans are one of four sides in the tournament ranked above Thailand in the world; the others are Japan, North Korea and China. As only eleven teams are taking part, you might think that they would progress straight to the semis after the group stage, but, no, there will be quarter-finals. Therefore, just three teams will be going home after the group stage. It’s beyond unimaginable that Thailand will be one of them. They will then hope to avoid one of the “big four” in the quarters and so make it through to the semis at least. But even a quarter-final place will ensure it is the girls’ best ever Asian Games performance. In 2010, just seven women’s teams took part and the Thais found themselves in a three-team group along with Japan and North Korea.

“Thailand’s women’s team are currently ranked 29th in the world and fi fth in Asia – numbers the men’s team can only dream of.” And in 2006, they found themselves in the same group as Japan and China. Unsurprisingly, they were on the plane home after the group stage of both tournaments. But they have improved since then; an improvement recognised by being placed in Pot 2 for the draw thus avoiding being in a group with two of the “big four.” Legendary coach Charnwit Polcheewin is a part of the women’s set-up, which may account for their upturn in fortunes. Over the years he has been in charge of just about every age-group Thai national team from under-16 through to under-23 as well as being head coach of the senior men’s side for four relatively successful years. The two stars in the team are Kanjana Sungnoen and Napat Seeseum, who both play in Japan, and one Taneekarn Dangda, younger sister of Teerasil, who has just signed for Östersunds of Sweden. The women kick off their campaign against hosts South Korea on Sept 14 at 18:00 TST. Then they face the Maldives on Sept 17 at noon and finish against India on Sept 21 at 15:00. If all goes to plan, then the girls should avoid all of the big four in the quarters. If they win their group, they will probably face one of Jordan, Taipei, Hong Kong or Vietnam. If they finish runners-up, then it will be one of Vietnam or Hong Kong. The Asian Games as a whole runs from September 19th to October 4th though the football competition gets underway on September 14th. The official website is www.incheon2014ag.org and the official Twitter handle is @incheonAG2014en

Book of the month

The Last Siamese FOR any reader who is interested in the complex situation which confronted Thailand during World War II, this book by Teddy Spha Palasthira is a must read. Through a series of essays describing individuals with “courage and imagination,” the author presents characters as diverse as Prime Minister Pibulsonggram, who under extreme pressure from the Japanese signed a declaration of war against Britain and the USA; HSH Prince Subha Svasti, who lead the Free Thai Movement in England; and Boonpong Sirivejjapan, who at great personal and financial risk provided food and medicines to the allied prisoners on the Burma/Siam railway. The essays include vivid descriptions of Mom Luang Pravas Choomsai, who lead a spirited resistance against the Japanese in Southern Thailand; Doctor Smarn Muntarbhorn, who spent the war years in London helping to save British lives; and Vicha Dhitavadhana, who served as a commissioned officer in the German Army. There are also accounts of popular figures like Nai Lert, who launched The White Bus Company, Bangkok’s first bus and taxi boat service; HRH Prince Birabongse Bhanubandh, who enjoyed great success on Europe’s Grand Prix Car Racing Circuit, before and after the war; and Khamsing Srinawk, whose short stories feature the lives of rural peasants in Thailand. The author, Teddy Spha Palasthira, was born in England where his father served in the Thai Diplomatic Service. Growing up in London during the German bombing raids, Teddy met many members of the exiled Thai Royal Family, including King Vajiravudh, Queen Ramphai and the future Queen of Thailand, M.R. Sirikit. Moving with his family after the war to Paris and later to Rome, he returned to Thailand and worked briefly at the Thai Foreign Office, then went on to run a number of advertising agencies. Before his fourth career as a writer, he was Professor of Global Marketing Communications at the Missouri School of Journalism, and he is now an honorary Barrister-at-Law at Middle Temple, London, where he graduated a long time ago. His previous book titled “Addresses,” describes his early life in Britain and subsequent experiences in post-war Europe. – Roy Howard “The Last Siamese,” by Teddy Spha Palasthira. Published by Post Books. Available from Asia Books and all good bookstores TheBigChilli

Just for fun

Entertainment|Jokes

Humour Bon mots from the mouth of a pro. This month: Peter Kay

Burning questions

• What do people in China call their good quality plates? • Is French kissing in France just called kissing? • If quizzes are quizzical, what are tests? • Why do toasters always have a setting that burns the toast to a horrible crisp no one would eat?

On relationships

• Sex is like playing bridge: If you don’t have a good partner, you better have a good hand. • I’ve often wanted to drown my troubles, but I can’t get my wife to go swimming. • I saw six men kicking and punching the mother-in-law. My neighbour said ‘Are you going to help?’ I said ‘No, six should be enough.’ • You know that look women get when they want sex? No, me neither.

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On food

• I went to a restaurant that serves ‘breakfast at any time’. So I ordered French Toast during the Renaissance. • If we aren’t supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat? • You never know where to look when eating a banana. • Knowledge is knowing a tomato is a fruit; Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.

Random thoughts

• I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give the wrong answers. • The smaller the monkey the more it looks like it would kill you at the ﬁrst given opportunity. • It’s impossible to look cool whilst picking up a Frisbee. • Right now I’m having amnesia and déjà vu at the same time. I think I’ve forgotten this before.

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Social p Last monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best events in pictures

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Farewell ImperIal Queen’s park

THE management and staff of the soon-to-close Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel thanked patrons past and present for their loyal custom by hosting a final party in the hotel’s lobby area. The hotel will now be renovated and rebranded as Marriott.

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Social|Last Monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Events

Mulligans rocks

CUSTOMERS of Mulligans Irish Pub on Khao San Road enjoyed a musical treat when Pod, lead singer of famous Thai rock band Moderndog, took to the stage for a mini concert featuring many of his bandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-loved hits.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

BeerVault celeBrates Booze BEERVAULT at Four Points By Sheraton Bangkok, Sukhumvit 15, celebrated International Beer Day on Aug 1 in boozy fashion with a big party featuring special deals on the pub’s international beers and eats.

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carlsBerg KicK off Party

THE distributors of Carlsberg beer in Thailand, Brewery Co., Ltd., celebrated the start of the Barclays Premier League with a ‘Kick Off Party’ at Bottoms Up Bar on Soi Thonglor. Dance shows, a DJ performance, and a goal kicking contest added to the fun.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Bacardi untamed BACARDI’S month-long takeover of Groove at CentralWorld kicked off in style with a fun-packed party featuring a performance by popular Thai band Yellow Fang. The Untameable series continued throughout the month with three exhibitions and three live performances by artists who share “Bacardi’s untameable spirit.”

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apoteka thonglor turns one

A NIGHT of live music and free-flow drinks had everyone in high spirits at Apoteka Thonglorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first anniversary party. A party-starting performance by the Walrus Band, plus DJ sets by Delorene and Sunju Hargun, ensured the event stayed rocking late into the night.

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Social|Last Monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Events

Movers & shakers on sukhuMvit

OVER 150 guests enjoyed making new business contacts at the July edition of the popular Movers & Shakers corporate networking night. Held at The Summit on the 25th floor of the Hilton Sukhumvit Bangkok Hotel, the event was sponsored by Kingdom Property. Photos by Minima anastasia.

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Chandon sensation in Phuket

A NAUTICAL theme, fire performances, a fashion show, and DJs spinning upbeat trance music set the scene for a great night of partying when Diego Moet Hennessy (Thailand) Limited launched the Chandon Summer Limited Edition at Angsana Laguna Phuketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s XANA Beach Club with Attica.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Sixpence more the richer

THE new Sixpence British Pub and Restaurant at the Pickadaily community mall, On Nut 39, marked its soft opening with a night of free-flow drinks, live music, and fun games. Check out the pub’s deals and activities at www.facebook.com/sixpencebkk.

BalineSe flavourS at the Square

THE vibrant flavours of Balinese cuisine were enjoyed by a large crowd of foodies when The Square Restaurant, Novotel Bangkok Bangna, launched its “Bali Meet Phuket” promotion. Held for 20 days, the promotion was sponsored by the Embassy of The Republic of Indonesia and Garuda Indonesia office in Bangkok, and featured dishes prepared by guest Chef Mr Suwagiyo from the Pullman Jakarta Central Park.

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RotaRy biRthday celebRation

MORE than 100 members, new and old, plus friends of Rotary Club of Bangkok South celebrated the clubâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s anniversary party at the Grand Millenium Sukhumvit.

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Social|Last Month’s Best Events

Spikey ScoreS at Molly’S

RUGBY fans enjoyed a night of witty banter and fascinating stories when former Wales international Mike ‘Spikey’ Watkins launched his autobiography – “Spikey - 2 Hard to Handle: The Autobiography of Mike ‘Spikey’ Watkins” – at Molly Malone’s Irish Pub on Soi Convent. The event was sponsored by RSM Thailand.

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Social|Around town

SHoPPINg IN tHe Car Park

SHoPPerS found much more than just cars in the emporium Department Store’s fourth floor parking area last month when the store’s management, in collaboration with Samsung galaxy, opened a pop-up shop featuring well-known brands and popular products from the art, fashion, music and lifestyle industries. this month the shop will feature sales on luxury fashion brands; next month, thai designer brands.

Sweet treat for mumS

tHe ratchaprasong Square trade association (rSta) led by its representative, ms Nattaporn Chevamongkol, and the InterContinental Bangkok’s Hotel manager, ms melinda Lampier, presided over “a Cake of Love”, a special cake decoration workshop for mums and their kids, at Cham thai restaurant, Holiday Inn Bangkok. the workshop was led by Chris Busschaert, the Intercontinental Bangkok’s executive Pastry Chef.

SuSHI DeN oPeNS New BraNCH

JaPaNeSe restaurant chain Sushi Den marked the launch of its latest branch in thailand, located at Siam Square one shopping center, by introducing a new menu featuring hearty servings of Niniku Shoyu Zuke Hirame, and Niniku Shoyu Zuke tuna, as well as a range of sushi selections starting at just B39 per plate.

a taSte of JaSmINe wItH twININgS

twININgS of London’s new and exclusive tea blend, twinings Jasmine Bloom, was introduced to a large crowd of tea lovers at the twinings tea Boutique, Centralworld, where they rubbed shoulders with celebs such as Nok Sinjai Plengpanich and her daughter, Bom tichakorn, and sampled more brews from the twinings Signature Blend Series. the event was hosted by mrs Supanya archamongkol, the new Business unit manager of aB food & Beverages thailand.

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Social|Around Last Month’s town Best Events

New Look CoNverSe

SNEAKER fans flocked to Soy Sauce factory art space on Charoenkrung 24 for the launch of Converse’s fall 2014 all Star Collection, which features new silhouettes and elevated detailing plus a continuation of two ever-popular Converse collaborations – one with legendary rock band, Black Sabbath; the other with iconic global fashion house, missoni.

tHe Coffee BeaN aND tea Leaf turNS two

tHe Coffee Bean & tea Leaf thailand celebrated its second anniversary by launching an “experience the finest teas in the world” lucky draw campaign. available until oct 15, the campaign is giving customers the chance to win an exclusive trip to “Nildalukanda,” one of the world’s finest tea plantations in Sri Lanka. two-hundred other exciting prizes are also up for grabs. the campaign was launched at the Coffee Bean & tea Leaf’s branch in Siam Center (second floor). For more info see www.facebook.com/coffeebeanthailand.com.

CeLeBratINg Luxury LIvINg

HARVEY Law Group (Thailand), a leading international law firm in overseas investments and mobility from Canada, celebrated its grand opening in thailand by joining with american express to host an ‘absolute Perfection’ party night at Q twelve rachaprapruek-Sathorn. the exclusive party, arranged for american express Platinum cardholders, also featured a range of activities in conjunction with wine n’ about, Jubilee Diamond, Bentley, Porsche, and Q twelve luxury homes.

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Sweet DreamS wItH SaNtaS

tHaI celebs such as Jareyadee Spencer, mL auradis Snidvongs, and mL rojanatorn Na Songkhla learnt the secrets behind a good night’s sleep at the ‘SaNtaS Pillow fresh’ event, hosted by Jaspal & Son Co., Ltd, at the fashion Hall of Siam Paragon. Bringing their old pillows to exchange for new SaNtaS pillows, the celebs also enjoyed decorating pillows at a booth operated by thai artist ong – kongpat Sakdapitak, and watched an aerial acrobat performance presented by the winner of thailand’s got talent, Leng – rachanikorn keawdee.

Diplomats p Meet the people uniting nations

His Excellency Marc Michielsen The ambassador of the Kingdom of Belgium talks candidly about his experiences in Thailand Page 106

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Diplomats

His Excellency Marc Michielsen|Belgium

Belgium continues to build on long-standing ties with Thailand

By Maxmilian Wechsler

LOCATED on the 16th floor of Sathorn City Tower, the Royal Belgium Embassy enjoys a bird’s-eye view of one of the city’s most interesting quarters and provided a stimulating environment for a lively interview with His Excellency Marc Michielsen, ambassador of the Kingdom of Belgium. Beginning with background information on Thai-Belgian relations, the ambassador displayed a quick wit and comprehensive knowledge of the subject throughout the conversation. “The Belgian consulates in Manila and Singapore were the first to be established in the region. As early as 1835, the consuls there were instructed to travel to the Kingdom of Siam and establish links. “The first bilateral Treaty of Amity and Commerce was signed in 1868. The treaty called for peace and friendship between the two countries and freedom of trade and navigation, equal to that enjoyed by most-favored nations. It also guaranteed religious freedom and the related rights necessary to practise this freedom. “Belgium was given the right to appoint consular representatives with jurisdiction over Belgian nationals in Siam. The treaty remained in effect until 1926, when it was replaced by a treaty between Siam and the Belgium-Luxembourg Economic Union. “In 1884, Belgium established an honorary consulate in Bangkok. In 1888, a non-resident Belgian legation was created in Siam, with Léon Verhaeghe de Naeyer the first Belgian diplomat accredited to His Majesty the King of Siam. He was concurrently the minister of Belgium in Beijing. “Diplomatic relations between our two kingdoms really took off with the establishment of a Belgian legation in Bangkok in 1904 and the designation of Leon Dossogne as resident Head of Mission. This contributed greatly to the development of commercial exchanges between our two countries,” explained Mr Michielsen. “The first Belgian consulate was on Captain Bush Lane, close to New Road (on the present site of the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel). It was close to the river and to the British, French and Portuguese missions. The legation was later transferred to Silom Road, near what is now Soi 19. “The Belgian Consul Marcel Polain moved into a rented a house on Soi Phipat on October 1, 1927. The house was used to accommodate the chancellery and to host dinners and receptions. “In 1935, the Belgian government decided to buy the building on Soi Phipat, permitting the Belgian legation in Bangkok to enjoy a permanent and very suitable home. The offices moved outside the residence but stayed on the premises of Soi Phipat until the year 2000, when a modern embassy was opened in the Sathorn City Tower. In 2012 the embassy moved to a larger space in Sathorn Square, while the ambassador’s residence

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remains in the original building on Soi Phipat. “Currently, we have 16 expats plus 15 locally recruited staff working at our embassy. Most of the Thai staff speaks English and French, and two local staff members speak Dutch. We want people who turn to our embassy to be able to speak in their own language.”

Exceptional emissar y Mr Michielsen was born in 1959 in Mortsel, a lovely small town in the northern part of Belgium close to Antwerp. “My late father was a businessman in Antwerp. My mother is alive and 89 years old. She was a painter until she got married and devoted her life to raising her two children,” said the ambassador. His resume easily places him in the ranks of the most experienced diplomats currently posted in Thailand. Since joining the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA) in Brussels in 1989 he has served as Attaché, Permanent Representation to NATO (1991-1995); the MFA’s Directorate of Political-Military Affairs (1996-1997); First Secretary in Dublin, Ireland (1997-2001); First Secretary, Permanent Representation of Belgium to the European Union - Belgium EU Presidency of 2001 (Political and Security Committee); First Secretary and as Counselor/DHOM in Moscow (2002-2005) and Ambassador to Sofia, Bulgaria, FYROM, Albania and Kosovo as jurisdiction (2008-2012), his last foreign posting before coming to Thailand. He has also taken on special assignments such as membership in the Belgian task force to prepare the International Conference of Brussels on the interdiction of anti-personnel landmines in 1997 and Director of Political Affairs of the taskforce in charge of the Belgian OSCE Chairmanship in 2006. Holding a PhD in Political science, Mr Michielsen has published in scientific reviews as well as in newspapers and magazines. He is multilingual, conversant in French, Dutch, German and English since an early age. At university he added Spanish, Portuguese and Russian while posted in Moscow, he refreshed his Russian. Mr Michielsen arrived in Thailand on August 31, 2012 to take the post of ambassador. He is also accredited to the Kingdom of Cambodia, Lao PDR and Myanmar. The ambassador came to Thailand for the first time in 2008 as chief spokesperson of the Belgian MFA, accompanying former minister of Foreign Affairs, Karel De Gucht. “We spent about a day and a half in Bangkok and moved on to the next destination, but I was very aware of the special relationship with Thailand based on a rich bilateral history, a close relationship between the royal families of our countries and intense economic links.”

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Diplomats

His Excellency Marc Michielsen|Belgium

Waterloo – where the last battle of Napoleon took place

A flower carpet at Brussels central square

The tasks of an ambassador “As ambassador I am the representative of His Majesty King Philippe of the Belgians in Thailand. My duties and responsibilities can be put under three headings: one, represent my country; two, defend the interests of my country; three, make known, improve and further develop the bilateral relations between our two countries. “As the representative of the Belgian head of state, each time anything important takes place in the sphere of our bilateral relations, be it in the political, economic, cultural, scientific or educational field, I try to play a part in it. I am also present at a huge number of official events organized by the Thai government and the Thai Royal House. The national day celebrations are another type of event which, as an ambassador, you must attend. “As for the second task, defending the interests of my country, I am talking here about interests in the widest sense. I think for example of improving the well-being of Belgian residents and tourists, facilitating Belgian businesses, lobbying for Belgian candidates to get them elected to international organizations and so forth. “What concerns the third task, making known, improving and further developing the bilateral relations between our two countries, the building blocks of the bilateral relations between countries are of utmost importance. From an historic perspective I must stress that not every country with an embassy in Bangkok signed a treaty of friendship more than 145 years ago, established diplomatic relations more than 130 years ago and opened a diplomatic office 110 years ago. Art nouveau: the Solvay library in Brussels. Belgian Company Solvay is one of the biggest investors in Thailand

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Bruges – Belgium’s Venice of the north

“Besides these important dates there are other major building blocks, namely the excellent relations between our royal houses, the economic relations between our two countries, the never ending stream of people-to-people contacts in the social, educational and cultural fields and the presence of some emblematic figures and events that illustrate the unique nature of our relationship. I will limit myself to two examples, one of which is Gustave Rolin Jaecquemyns; the other the Belgian Thai Bridge.

Emblematic figures and events “Mr Gustave Rolin-Jaequemyns was the most renowned European advisor of King Rama V, and was appointed as General Advisor to the Siamese Crown from 1892 until 1901. He assisted the Thai government in modernizing and codifying the country’s laws. He served as an advisor on foreign affairs in a period of vastly expanding empires. His Majesty King Rama V elevated M Gustave to the rank of Chao Phya Abhai Raja. A bust of the most well known Belgian in Thailand was inaugurated in March 2013 by Their Royal Highnesses Prince Philippe and Princess Mathilde. “The Belgian Thai Friendship Bridge is the most famous hallmark of Belgium’s technical cooperation with Thailand, a fruitful result of a partnership between the Belgian Ministry of Public Works and the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration. The bridge was built in 1988 in less than 24 hours and was the first fly-over in Bangkok.

Their Royal Highnesses Prince Philippe and Princess Mathilde visiting Wat Pho

“It was inaugurated in presence of Her Royal Highness Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. In 2013 the bridge was modernized and the inauguration ceremony took place in presence of Their Royal Highnesses Prince Philippe and Princess Mathilde.”

Cultural diplomacy

“In November 2001, the Belgian artist Rudi Pillen offered a unique painting called ‘The Travelers’ to the Mass Rapid Transit Authority (MRTA) of Thailand. The work, representing 204 people, impressively greets commuters at the entrance of the Thai Cultural Center MRTA station. It was the first work of art to compliment a MRTA station. “Cultural diplomacy, as the example above shows, is another way to foster bilateral relations. We organized in March 2013 at the Bangkok Art and Cultural Center the exhibition ‘Three Colors of Belgium,’ featuring three contemporary Belgian artists, Hugo Besard, Christian Develter and Niki Kokkinos. The exhibition was opened by her Royal Highness Princess Mathilde. “Jef Neve, one of the most promising Belgian jazz musicians, performed a concert at the auditorium of the Pridi Phanomyong Institute in Bangkok. The embassy did not have to think twice to support this initiative. “I am also very proud that in 2013 I could bring Belgian composer, pianist and vocalist Wim Mertens to the concert hall of Chulalongkorn University in Bangkok to celebrate a double anniversary: 145 years treaty of friendship and 130 years of diplomatic relations. “Wim Mertens is one of the most famous cultural ambassadors of Belgium. On October 28, 2014 he will perform ‘Voice of the Living’ at an international World War I commemoration in the Belgian city Ypres. “This year we celebrate 110 years of Belgian diplomatic presence in Thailand and the embassy will organize several activities. We are working on two publications: a booklet on the 110 years of Belgian diplomatic presence here another on the Belgian Thai Friendship Bridge. In addition, we will have an exhibition coinciding with the 200th anniversary of the birth of Adophe Sax, the Belgian inventor of the saxophone, and with four partners in three cities (Bangkok, Hua Hin and Phuket), we will organize a Belgian Food Marathon. “The official celebration of our 110 years will take place on 25th September 2014 with a gala concert by the Belgian classical guitar duo of Raphaella Smits and Adrien Brogna. Raphaella Smits is a guitar phenomen, revered in ‘guitar-minded’ countries like Argentina, Russia and Japan.

Gustave Rolin Jeacquemyns, the General Advisor of His Majesty King Chulalongkorn

organize a trade mission presided over by HRH Prince Philippe which from March 17 to 22, 2013 brought about 100 Belgian companies, 150 business people and a total of 200 participants to Bangkok. Belgian Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Foreign Affairs Didier Reynders took part in the mission and signed with his Thai counterpart a Belgian-Thai Joint Action Plan in order to strengthen our bilateral relations and to pursue a strategic partnership. “In 2013 we reached an export value of US$1.8 billion in our trade with Thailand. The export value of Thailand to Belgium was even bigger. Belgium is Thailand’s fifth largest EU trading partner. One must take into account that we are a country of 11 million people. So proportionally, in a manner of speaking, we are the number one European trading partner of Thailand. The message I always try to convey is that Belgium has everything to be the central hub and the number one partner for Thailand in Europe. “Economic ties between Belgium and Thailand are flourishing. In 2013, Thailand ranked 43th in the list of Belgium’s main economic partners, while Belgium was at the 33th on Thailand’s list. “Exports from Belgium to Thailand increased in 2013 by 5.7%. These are mainly chemical products, precious stones including diamonds, metals, machinery and equipment and

The 16th Century castle of Beloeil

Economic diplomacy “My first task upon arrival in August 2012 was to plan and

Traditional houses in Bruges

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Diplomats

His Excellency Marc Michielsen|Belgium

Belgian classical guitar duo Raphaella Smits and Adrien Brogna

Diamonds – Antwerp’s best friend

plastics. Exports from Thailand to Belgium mainly consist of machinery and equipment, precious stones, metals, plastics and transport materials. “Major Belgian companies present in Thailand are Katoen Natie, Magotteaux, Tractebel, Inve and Solvay. Most have been active here for more than 20 years. Solvay recently announced that it will build Southeast Asia’s largest sodium bicarbonate plant in Thailand. This investment demonstrates the country is an attractive and strategic place to invest in for Belgian firms. “Besides the mayor players quite a lot of small and medium sized enterprises are present in Thailand. Last but not least, we have the Thai companies that import Belgian products and that have established excellent relations with their Belgian partners.

People to people “In 2013, approximately 5,300 Thai citizens visited Belgium on a short-term basis (this number includes visits for tourism, family and business purposes). To attract more Thai tourists to Belgium we organized in August 2014 in the Belgian residence a presentation for a selection of Thai tour operators and journalists. Some 3,800 Thai people live in Belgium. “The number of Belgian tourists who came to Thailand amounted to 92,250 in 2013. Thailand is one of the most popular Asian holiday destinations for Belgians. “A total of 2,483 Belgian citizens are registered at the Belgian Embassy in Thailand, though the number of Belgians residing here on a long-stay basis is probably a good bit higher, but no accurate estimate can be provided. “In 2011, Thai Airways started direct flights between Bangkok and Brussels. Two years later, Thai Airways and Brussels Airlines - both members of Star Alliance - concluded a codeshare agreement to reinforce each other. Since the launch of the flight the Embassy of Belgium in Bangkok has observed a steady increase in the number of visa applications. “In Thailand my main travel destinations are the places where we have economic interests. Rayong and the Eastern Sea Board figure high on my list. I have been to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, as well as Hua Hin and Phuket, where EU meetings took place concerning the situation of European tourists in Thailand. “Professionally, I also often travel to Yangon, Nay Pyi Taw, Phnom Penh and Vientiane,” said Mr Michielsen. Asked why his country has not an embassy in each country in Southeast Asia, he replied: “There are three criteria to open an embassy. The presence of a Belgian expat population, people to people contacts and trade flows. Once certain thresholds are reached we will consider opening an embassy.”

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Personal notes

The 19th Century Railway Station in Antwerp

“As a diplomat you have a unique chance to live in different countries and to develop in-depth knowledge of the countries and nearby regions. I use my leisure time to explore Thailand. Besides that, I love good food and fine wines. I have broad cultural interests, particularly in music, modern dance, art and architecture. I read mainly nonfiction. When it comes to sports, jogging, swimming, tennis and golf are my favorites.” The ambassador is happily married to French artist Marie Chantal Biéla. He described himself as a “big fan of Thai food” and noted that this probably has a lot to do with the fact that most Belgians know the excellent Thai cuisine thanks to the Blue Elephant restaurant. “But even when I’m not eating such gastronomic masterpieces as are produced in that Thai-Belgian joint venture, I am always positively surprised by the high quality of Thai cuisine. I would like to add that good food is as important to Belgians as it is to Thais. Hence, I am happy to work in Thailand.”

ROYAL EXCHANGE THE Thai and Belgian royal families have entertained a longstanding relationship. The first royal visit was in 1897, when King Chulalongkorn travelled to Europe and was welcomed in Belgium by King Leopold II. Other visits by Thai royalty to Belgium took place in 1920, 1924, 1929, 1930 and 1934. In 1932, Belgian Crown Prince Leopold and Princess Astrid, the Duke and the Duchess of Brabant, visited Siam and were granted an audience with King Prachadhipok. In 1960, King Bhumibol and Queen Sirikit paid a visit to Belgium. The Thai royal couple was welcomed by King Baudouin and visited major parts of Belgium from Brussels to Bruges. King Baudouin and Queen Fabiola visited Thailand in 1964. In February 2001 and in March 2013 Prince Philippe and Princess Mathilde presided over a trade mission to Thailand. Both times, they were granted an audience with HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej. In June 2006 they also took part in the 60th anniversary celebration of the King’s accession to the Throne.

HUA HIN

Cha Am • Pranburi • And beyond...

InterContinental Hua Hin’s opulent Thai-Victorian house, La Residence, is now open for weddings, private parties, and anniversary events. Page 112.

News & deals

Hua Hin’s hottest promotions and deals await inside Page 112

Dining out

Innovative and healthy dishes make Rest Scene Restaurant a winner Page 116

Social

Hua Hin’s best events captured on camera for your viewing pleasure Page 118 TheBigChilli 111

Hu aH i n

N ews and Deals

Tie the knot in style at La Residence THE InterContinental Hua Hin’s opulent Thai-Victorian house, La Residence, is now open for business offering luxurious wedding packages from B150,000++. Designed to reflect the 1920s grandeur of His Majesty King Rama VI’s Summer Palace, La Residence is set over two floors and features an infinity swimming pool, walled gardens and direct beach access. Other amenities include five 42-inch LCD TVs, a Bose entertainment system with iPod docking station, two spacious living rooms on each floor, and two dining rooms. There is also a kitchen with and electric oven and a wine fridge. La Residence also offers packages for birthday parties, anniversary dinners, and other celebrations. ☎ 03 261 6999 huahin.intercontinental.com

Third night free at Dusit

Australian beef showcase CARNIVORES are well catered for during the next two months at Rest Detail Hua Hin’s Rest Scene Restaurant (read a full review on page 116), where a special menu featuring the ﬁnest beef from Australia is now on offer starting at just B1,200 per dish. Cooked medium-rare and served alongside veggies and your favourite sauce, it’s a real meaty treat. Available daily from 11am-10pm. ☎ 03 254 7733 restdetailhotel.com

GOOD news, deal hunters. Until Oct 31, book two consecutive nights at the Dusit Thani Hua Hin (on the hotel’s website only) and you’ll get a third consecutive night’s accommodation for free. ☎ 03 252 0009 www.dusit.com

Great value golf at Banyan AS part of the Hua Hin Cha-am Golf Festival, until Sept 30 Banyan Golf Club is offering green fees at just B1,800 per person. What’s more, Banyan Resort Hua Hin is offering a golf and accommodation package at B6,800 per night inclusive of breakfast and two green fees. ☎ 03 253 8889 banyanthailand.com

Indian flavours at InAzia HUA HIN may be synonymous with seafood but there are still plenty of opportunities to explore the culinary world map. Head to Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa’s InAzia Restaurant on any Sunday this month (6pm-10pm) and you’ll ﬁnd a special Indian Tandoori buffet featuring Paneer tikka, Knil wadha ﬁsh, Shurka boti kebab, and many more oven-baked treats. B850 per person. ☎ 03 270 8000 ext. 4303 sheraton.com/huahin

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Hu aH i n

S i ghts eeing

For Art’s Sake YOU’LL find no thought-provoking or boundary-pushing artworks on display at For Art’s Sake, Hua Hin’s first 4D illusion art museum, but you can expect to have lots of fun mining for ‘Instagram gold’ thanks to the gallery’s range of paintings and sculptures specially created to put you, the viewer, at the heart of the action. From images of zombie attacks and haunted rooms, to optical illusions that allow for some nifty Spider-Man style photos, the pieces on display are all about user interaction. Simply take a friend armed with a camera and let your creative juices flow. 22/141 Soi Mooban Bor Fai. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. B300 for adults; B120 for kids (Thai nationals: B180 for adults; B120 for kids). ☎ 032 520 699 facebook.com/forartsakehuahin

New attractions!

Camel Republic FOLLOWING in the footsteps of Santorini and Venetia, which offer shopping, restaurants and amusement park rides within themed compounds, Camel Republic has now opened in Cha-Am offering similar fare, albeit more rides, within a Morrocan inspired setting. The biggest draw here are the rides – including the Sky Fly, a state-of-the-art sky-diving simulator; and the Flying Macaw, a fairground-style ride which allows users to spin upside down – but the kids are sure to love the animal park, with its camels and petting-zoo, and there are plenty of interesting photo-ops – especially from the Soaring Eagle seated zip wire ride, which gives you a great view of Cha Am. Phetkasem Rd. Entry is B200 for adults; B90 for kids (Thai nationals: B120 for adults). Ride coupons are B120 each. Prices for rides varies.

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H u aH i n D i n ing out Res t Sc e n e

Review

Rest Scene

Small in size, big in taste, Rest Detail Hotel Hua Hin’s intimate poolside restaurant is well worth a visit

AS one of our favourite places to stay in Hua Hin, it’s perhaps no surprise that Rest Detail Hotel also gets our vote for being a great place to grab a bite to eat, too. Sure, the hotel may not be centrally located, but ensuring its Rest Scene Restaurant is worth the short drive out of town is an artfully crafted menu of Thai and Mediterranean cuisine featuring dishes such as Grilled teriyaki snow fish with mayo wasabi sauce (B950++), Pizza Rest Scene (B350++), Spaghetti tom yum gung (B350++), and many more creative options. Lovingly prepared in an open kitchen by a brigade of chefs who only use the best locally and internationally sourced ingredients – including veggies from Rest Detail’s own hydroponics farm – the food arrives artfully presented, rich with natural colours, and bursting with unadulterated tastes. “We want to offer flavoursome food that’s healthy too,” says the restaurant’s head chef, Chairat Madee, taking a break from

grilling an Australian steak (read about the restaurant’s current beef promotion on page 112). “We want the ingredients to shine through in every dish we cook. So while we do offer a selection of innovative dishes you won’t find elsewhere in Hua Hin, our main focus is always on using the very best produce to ensure the very best tastes.” Blending eastern and western flavours, the restaurant’s signature Grilled teriyaki snow fish provides plenty evidence of this. The plump, soft snow fish sits atop expertly grilled veggies and is served alongside brown rice and mash arranged in a two-tiered tower. Finished with a delicious, and glutinous, teriyaki sauce, a splash of wasabi mayo, and topped with fried ginger, the dish impresses in both taste and texture. A real winner, it was recently named best dish at the Makro HoReCa Challenge 2014. Equally impressive is the Seafood Hua Hin skillet (B950++), an eye-popping serving of king prawns, squid, rock lobster, 19/119 Hua Hin Soi 19.

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☎ 032 547 722 :restdetailhotel.com

salmon, mussels and rice which, similar to Spanish paella, arrives at the table served in a large pan and is just perfect for sharing. Located poolside near the beach, Rest Scene has a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere that makes it a perfect venue for any dining occasion. Swing by on Friday and Saturday nights and, from 6.30pm-10pm, and the atmosphere is even better thanks to sultry performances of live jazz. What’s more, visit on weekends and, alongside the a la carte menu you can choose from special dining promotions. Every Friday is Charcoal Steak Jazz Night (which lives up to its name with a variety of grilled meats. Price depends on weight and type of meat); Every Saturday night there’s the Jazz Seafood Hua Hin Market, which offers a variety of fresh seafood cooked just as you like; and every Saturday during long weekends you can enjoy the BBQ Jazz Night Buffet Dinner, which features a wide variety of deep sea delights fresh from the grill.

Hu aH i n

S ocial

All in white for Mother’s Day LA Paillote French restaurant marked the birthday of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit – which, in Thailand, is also celebrated as national Mother’s Day – with an all-white theme dinner featuring dishes such as Saint Jacques Scallops with champagne sauce, and Parrot fish with Normandy sauce, alongside specially selected white wines. All customers came in white to honour the Queen and celebrate the occasion.

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Hu aH i n

S ocial

Italian fun at Molina MOLINA Italian Wine & Cuisine, Hua Hin celebrated its first anniversary with an Italian-style aperitif party where a lively crowd of expats, locals and tourists enjoyed a night of free-flow wines, delicious finger food, and a DJ spinning hot beats. Italian beer tasting added to the fun. Find more info about the venue at www.facebook.com/Molina.HuaHin.

All in Australian taste EXQUISITE Australian cuisine was the order of the day when visiting chef Ben Higgs from the Wild Oak Restaurant in Olinda, Australia, cooked up his signature dishes in a splendid five-course wine dinner at the Centara Grand Beach Resort and Villas Hua Hin. Featuring the finest wines from Katnook Estate, Coonawarra, the dinner focused on imported ingredients â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Duo of grass-fed Australian beef paired with Katnook Estate Prodigy Shiraz 2008 was a real highlight â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and attended by over 40 guests.

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H u aH i n

Accommodation

Hua Hin Where to sleep

The Cape Nidhra Hotel, Hua Hin

Villa Maroc Resort Pranburi

■ Located in the heart of Hua Hin right next to the beach, this luxury hotel combines comfort and convenience for the perfect escape. Each suite is well-furnished in stylish décor and each has its own private swimming pool. General facilities include a fitness center, a swimming pool, steam rooms, spa, library, and meeting functions. Rocks Restaurant serves up a wide range of international dishes and local favourites, while the beachside bar, and the cigar and whisky bar, mix up some excellent cocktails.

■ Inspired by Morocco’s distinctive architecture, Villa Maroc combines Thai beachside living and service with some of the most luxurious furnishings from the North African Kingdom, making it a unique addition to Southeast Asia’s accommodation scene. The resort is located in Pranburi approximately 30 kilometers south of Hua Hin town. You can tuck into European, Middle Eastern and Thai cuisine at Casablanca, enjoy cocktails and shisha pipes at the Sisha Bar, relax in bliss at Sherazade Hammam & Spa, and much more.

97/2 Petchkasem Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 516 600

165/3 Moo 3 Paknampran, Pranburi, Tel: 032 630 771 email: rsvn@villamarocresort.com

Baan Bayan

Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa

■ This fine resort features one of Hua Hin’s finest examples of early 1900’s architectural style. The beachfront resort has been faithfully restored to its former glory by the family who once lived there. Guests staying at Baan Bayan can experience the glory of a bygone era in its colonial style structure, yet without sacrificing the modern day comforts and amenities. It has 21 rooms comprising of three suites, 10 sea view rooms and 16 rooms with views of the courtyard or tropical garden.

■ This imposing resort in the centre of Hua Hin is regarded as one of the best family hotels in the region. Accommodation features comfortable rooms and suites, providing guests with a living space that exhibits contemporary Thai design flair and good in-room amenities. There are also 11 Spa Suites available. The awardwinning White Lotus on the 17th floor of the Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa offers sky-high dining at down to earth prices.

119 Petchkasem Road. Tel: 032 533 544

33 Naresdamri Road. Tel: 032 538 999

Putahracsa Hua Hin

S’MOR Spa Village & Resort

■ This stylish resort skillfully marries Mediterranean-influenced villa accommodation with the best contemporary Thai interior design flair to create a unique experience. Putahracsa is a secluded sanctuary with 36 SilkSand rooms bordering a magnificent swimming pool and mini beach. Interiors emphasize the ‘sleek and chic’ approach to modern design. The Oceanbed Villas are truly exceptional, providing some of the highest quality accommodation and service in Hua Hin. The resort features a day spa, and superb dining opportunities at Oceanside Beach Club & Restaurant.

■ S’MOR Spa Village & Resort is always a great choice for a relaxing holiday. Located in the center of Hua Hin yet in the peaceful area overlooking the Khao Takiab Mountain with a long beautiful beach, this al-fresco resort features six bungalows and eight bedrooms, each well-equipped with all the mod-cons you could need. The seafront bungalow offers you a choice of private outdoor Jacuzzi or indoor Jacuzzi. The resort’s spa is exclusive and distinctive with an extensive list of treatments including traditional Thai massage. For eats, the beachfront S’MOR Spa Beach Bar & Restaurant serves a wide variety of international and local cuisines.

22/65 Nahb Kaehat Road. Tel: 032 531 470

122/64 Takiab Road, Hua Hin Tel: 032 536 800

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H u aH i n

Hua Hin

Din in g

Where to eat ■ This delightful beachfront restaurant is a great spot for alfresco dining. Pushed up against the water’s edge it has an easy going charm, good food and drink. The menu features a wide selection of delicious seafood dishes. Of note is the stir fried mud crab with X.O. sauce. A piquant tom yam with fresh prawns, pineapple and the flesh of young coconut offers an interesting variation on a classic dish. Open from 11am till 10pm.

Chom Talay

Phetkasem Road, Hua Hin, (next to the airport). Tel: 032 547 253-4

■ After a hard week of work in Bangkok you deserve a treat! Watch the perfect day on the beach transcend into a unique candlelit dining experience with your loved one. The restaurant offers excellent steaks and seafood plus an unrivaled choice of cocktails and outstanding wines at reasonable prices. The only non-hotel affiliated restaurant on Hua Hin’s main beach offers great value for money.

Beach Cafe Restaurant

Soi Hua Hin 75/1 by the sea, Prachaubkirikhan 77110, Open Mon – Sun 10am – 10pm. www.beachcaferestaurant.com

■ This charming French restaurant is the ideal place to enjoy an evening of fine food in relaxed surroundings. The fresh and colourful décor brings to mind citrus-scented Mediterranean evenings, as do the excellent range of aperitifs, wines, beers and digestifs. Although the culinary roots of La Paillote’s cuisine are classically French, the kitchen team enhances a rich culinary tradition with contemporary touches. An a la carte menu and nine set menus are available. Open daily from 11am till late.

La Paillotte

174/1 Naresdamri Road, 77110 Tel: 032 521025

Hua Hin to Milan in just minutes

123/46 Nongkae, Hua Hin Beside the Cicada Market /Molina.HuaHin 089 505 1006

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Tr a vel

D ea ls and Promotion s Centara Villas Phuket: Until Oct 31, rates start at

s ’ e t a M s rate

B3,800++ per night for two, inclusive of breakfast. Receive a complimentary Thai dinner set for two when staying three nights in a Deluxe Ocean Facing Villa at B11,400++. Online booking only. ☎ 07 628 6300 bit.ly/1pKdP3u

GLOW Elixir Koh Yao Yai Resort:

family r o s d n Frie land? i a h T g visitin now about k Let them e deals thes

Until Oct 31, the ‘Paradise Package’ promotion offers a 20% discount on bookings of three consecutive nights minimum. Rates start at B2,560 per night for a Superior Villa with breakfast for two. ☎ 087 808 3838 bit.ly/1tnZ1Yu

Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Bangkok: Available now,

the hotel’s ‘7 Days Advance Purchase’ offers 20% discount off its best flexible rates when booked seven days in advance. Rates start at B4,160++ per room per night (with Wi-Fi) for a Deluxe room. ☎ 02 204 4000 bit.ly/1kX8iGp

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa: Valid until Dec 24, the ‘First Class

Northgate Ratchayothin: Until Dec 31, the hotel’s ‘Stay 2 Weekend Nights & Save 20%’ promotion offers exactly that on Studio Rooms booked between Fri-Sun. Rates start at B1,920 for two persons (with Wi-Fi). A Two-Bedroom option is also available. ☎ 02 939 7949 northgatebangkok.com

Family Getaway’ promotion offers rates starting at B4,800++ per night for a Deluxe Sala Garden View room inclusive of daily international breakfast for up to two adults and two children under 12, activities at Kids’ Pavilion for up to two children, and more. Online booking only. ☎ 07 633 8000 jwmarriottphuketresort.com

Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Bangkok: Until the Amari Phuket: Want to explore the Vegetarian Festival in Phuket? Check out this ‘Hot Deal Package’ with rates starting at B11,520++ for a five-day, four-night stay in a Superior Ocean Facing, Superior Ocean View or Deluxe Ocean View room inclusive of daily breakfast buffet and round-trip airport transfers. Available until Oct 31. ☎ 07 634 0106-14 ext. 8033 amari.com/phuket 124

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Chatrium Residence Sathorn Bangkok: A ‘School Holiday Break

Package’ currently offers rates starting at B4,657++ per night. Package includes daily breakfast buffet, B1,000 F&B credit per room per stay, Wi-Fi, late check-out at 4pm (subject to availability) and more. ☎ 02 672 0200 bit.ly/1tjOtL1

end of the year, the ‘Club Package’ offers rates starting at B5,650 per night for single, or B6,150 per night for double in a Club Deluxe room. Package includes daily breakfast, mid-day snacks, afternoon tea, evening cocktails, in-room Wi-Fi, and free use of the Club Executive Lounge. Stay two nights under the Club Package and receive a one-way airport transfer, or stay three nights or more to receive a round-trip airport transfer. Club Deluxe Suite and Premium Deluxe Suite room categories are also under this package. ☎ 02 541 1234 bit.ly/U2c3P2

COAST CO PATTAYA

Kok Chang • Wong Amat • Jomtien • Bang Saray • Sattahip • Rayong Hilton Pattaya Hua Hin has won a HolidayCheck Award for the second consecutive year. Page 126.

News & Deals

The Eastern Seaboard’s hottest dining and hotel promotions Page 126

Fight night

The K-1mixed martial arts series makes its Thailand debut Page 126

Property

Over 55 developers expected at the second Pattaya Property Show Page 127 TheBigChilli 125

Pa tt a ya

N ews and Deals

Hilton Pattaya wins HolidayCheck Award FOR the second consecutive year Hilton Pattaya has received the HolidayCheck Quality Selection Award from hotel review website HolidayCheck.com. One of Europe’s leading review platforms, with over 25 million visits each month, HolidayCheck only awards hotels which have been rated exceptionally well by the website’s users. If you’re not scheduled to stay at the hotel during your next visit to Pattaya, we suggest you still drop by to enjoy a cocktail or two at the hotel’s rooftop bar, Horizon. The drinks are wonderfully boozy and the views are superb. ☎ 03 825 3000 :3.hilton.com

Cooking with a Thai master chef Holiday Inn Pattaya opens new tower HOLIDAY Inn Pattaya’s new Executive Tower is now open for business featuring 200 additional rooms, a top-floor Executive Club, and an innovative meeting space called “Workshop.” See page 132 for a full round up of what’s on offer. :holidayinn-pattaya.com

CENTARA Grand Modus Resort & Spa Pattaya has launched a new Thai cooking class based around authentic regional recipes. Ensuring you have a full Thai meal plan ready to go for your next dinner party, the hotel’s master chef teaches four main dishes. You’ll also learn how to make curry paste – so no cheating by buying the pre-packaged stuff next time you’re at the supermarket! Lessons are held daily 4.30pm-6pm. B900++ per person. Advance booking is required. ☎ 03 300 7888 :bit.ly/VJAPDO

K-1 World Max Finals THE world-renowned K-1 mixed martial arts series will make its Thailand debut next month in hard-hitting fashion with a series finale bout featuring two of the best 70kg MAX fighters in the world – Thailand’s Buakaw Banchamek and Germany’s Enriko Kehl. Buakaw, who’s been fighting in the tournament for 10 years, has already won two K-1 titles. Can he notch a third on home soil? Head to Indoor Athletics Stadium on Sat Oct 11 to find out. The event will also feature the debut of international MMA superstars Paul “Semtex” Daley and Andre “Dida” Amade. Tickets range B1,000-B10,000 :thaiticketmajor.com

Cook and win cash with Benihana THINK you can cook like the chefs at Benihana Pattaya Japanese Steak House (that means juggling utensils and performing culinary magic tricks while preparing your food)? Then you could win up to 5,000 US Dollars. Simply film yourself in action, upload your video to YouTube, and then send the link to www.benihanaworld.com/chef-competition. Chefs from the restaurant’s international branches will then select their favourites, and the winner will be announced on Dec 15. Good luck! Benihana, Pattaya is located on the 2nd floor of the Royal Garden Plaza ☎ 03 841 2120

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Pattaya Property Showcase THE second annual Pattaya Property Show will be held at the Dusit Thani Pattaya on Oct 3-5. Over 55 property developers are expected to showcase their portfolios at the event, giving buyers and investors a great opportunity to learn about the region’s hottest properties, compare locations and negotiate prices. Developers and realtors taking part include Raimon Land, Rightmove Pattaya, Kingdom Property, Del Mare, Veranda Resort and Spa, Matrix Developments, Heights Holdings, The Ville, Universal Group, Global Top Group, Ocean Residential, Sea Saran, Siam Realty Group, Norwegian Group, Pattaya Posh, Mosaic and many more. Open from 10am-6pm. Free entry. :pattayapropertyshow.com

Ben & Mariam B5 Live at Amari Pattaya FAMOUS Thai singers Ben Chalatit and Mariam B5, perhaps best-known by foreigners for their respective hit singles, Ooi Ooi and Hua Jai Mai Yoo Kub Tou, will perform live at Amari Pattaya’s Aranda Ballroom on Sat Oct 4 from 8pm-midnight. Tickets are B1,000 and include unlimited draught beers, house wines, soft drinks and whisky. ☎ 03 841 8418 email: fbreservation.pattaya@amari.com

Jesters’ Gala Party Night HAVE a great night out and help raise money for a good cause by joining Jesters Care for Kids’ fourth Gala Party Night at Amari Ocean Pattaya. Held on Sat Sept 20, the event will start with a welcome drink, followed by an international buffet with free-flow beer, wine and soft drinks. A live auction, live music, and a grand raffle (the top prize is a Honda PCX 150) will add to the fun. Tickets are B2,400 per person. ☎ 03 841 8418 :amari.com/ocean-pattaya

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P a t t aya P ersonality Q&A

Rolling back the years through technology Meet Dr.Sunya Viravaidya, the founder of Pattaya International Hospital and successful businessman who is offering innovative laser treatments for all tion better. It makes the total body perform better than prior to the laser’s use. It has been used to treat many illnesses but the most outstanding results have been in the treatment of chronic pain. Migraines, headaches, and pain in the joints, muscles or soft tissues respond well to Bio – Laser. Oral medications are then unnecessary and can be discontinued – a remarkable step forward. It should benefit a lot of patients when its use becomes more widespread. Aside from being a respected doctor, you’re also a renowned businessman and founder of the PIC Group, which, amongst other businesses in Pattaya, operates the Sugar Hut Resort and The Jazz Pit Pub. What made you decide to enter the hospitality and F&B industries? Health care is the ultimate service industry. Restaurants and resorts are just extensions of what we were already doing but a lot easier – really a natural progression. Is it difficult to juggle the roles of doctor, hotelier, restaurateur and businessman, or is this something that comes naturally to you? I enjoy working at whatever job is at hand and I always apply myself 100%. Each job may be different, but it gets done in the best way possible as quickly as possible. In 1974 you began your operations in Pattaya by opening a clinic (now Pattaya International Hospital). What made you choose Pattaya? Did you always plan to develop the clinic into a hospital? In the early ’70s American troops on R&R from Vietnam started to add to the development of Pattaya as a holiday resort. I noticed that the area lacked medical facilities and I thought it would be a good place to start something new. So I began Pattaya International Clinic in July 1974. The demand, which was already there, grew quickly and the clinic expanded to include beds. In 1980 we had 20 beds, an ICU, and an operating room. The growth of Pattaya and patients continued, and the Pattaya International Hospital, with 60 beds, was completed in 1992. So it was a progression rather than a plan. One of the hospital’s most innovative treatments involves the use of Bio – Laser. Please can you tell us more about this and the type of illnesses it can be used to treat? Bio – Laser uses a low wattage (low power) laser intravenously. It has been used for 30 years in Russia and in Asia (China, Japan and Taiwan), but not in Thailand. It increases the energy production in all the cells in the body making them func-

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What are the secrets of your success? Consistent hard work is the key to most successes and I am no different. Some luck may come along occasionally. Looking back over your career, is there anything you would like to have done differently? Sure, but could these things have been done differently without changing the people involved? I doubt it, as circumstances and people are interwoven. It’s a moot point. Finally, do you have any exciting developments you would like to share with us? People are living longer and the number is increasing. Suitable medical care for this doesn’t need to be aggressive; maintaining the status of good health is the ideal target. Bio – Laser improves the function of all cells in the body and after consistent use improves general health. I have experienced this myself and would like others to try it out. Reducing oral medication is a great side benefit. I believe it will be proven to be the best anti-aging treatment in the very near future. Taking you back 10 – 15 years! www.pih-inter.com

Pa ttay a Pr om oti on

Holiday Inn Pattaya – Executive Tower Hotel’s new building has everything you need to host the perfect business meeting or networking function – and it’s great for families, too

HOLIDAY Inn Pattaya’s new 25-storey Executive Tower is now open for business offering 200 rooms and suites plus stateof-the-art meetings and events facilities. Located opposite the hotel’s existing Bay Tower in North Pattaya, the new building features a top-floor Executive Club which serves breakfast and evening drinks and boasts fantastic views of the bay – especially from the club’s expansive terrace. Additional hotel facilities and amenities include: infinity and children’s swimming pools, well-equipped fitness centre, and kids’ club.

An innovative Workshop meeting and event concept features advanced technologies and highly configurable spaces, including Pattaya’s first auditorium facility within a hotel. Among the food and drink choices is all-day dining venue East Coast Kitchen which serves buffet breakfast as well as a wide-ranging à la carte menu throughout the afternoon. At night, the restaurant transforms into a bustling market-style venue featuring fresh produce and live cooking stations where chefs serve up international favourites.

Holiday Inn Pattaya, 463/68, 463/99 Pattaya Sai 1 Rd.

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Holiday Inn Executive Tower’s meeting and function facility – Workshop – features an industrial setting with the imagination-firing ambience of an artist’s studio, and contains all the tools needed for serious work. The space includes Pattaya’s first auditorium facility within a hotel, a 115-square-metre theatre-style venue for presentations, lectures and similar events, for up to 75 people. The Workshop’s Media Hub ensures quick communication by laptop and phone as part of a fully integrated prefunction area, which likewise includes a large open-air terrace ideal for cocktail receptions of up to 80 guests. Three meeting rooms, enhanced by natural daylight, are highly configurable and can be arranged for classrooms, theatre, banquet or cocktail functions accommodating 18 to 220 people. A boardroom facility is also available.

☎ 03 872 5555 :www.holidayinn-pattaya.com