Cherohala Skyway

I follow the road that my forefathers took by wagon train so very long ago. Well, actually not that long ago—the tradition only started in 1958, and the most recent wagon train was last August. I am driving along the Cherohala Skyway which connects Tellico Plains with Robbinsville, North Carolina. It is a beautiful road, one only built after years of a brilliantly unconventional political demonstration.

In 1958, the people of Tellico Plains and the nearby mountains were very isolated and lived traditional lives. Their children were often faced with a difficult decision—to keep living as their parents lived or leave everything they’d ever known and travel to more developed areas. It was in this environment that people began wanting a road to connect them to Robbinsville, thinking that this would expand their youngsters’ horizons, enabling them to travel and learn without permanently leaving their homes in the mountains. But how would they get the government to actually build such a road?

The answer started as a joke. During a meeting of the Tellico Plains Kiwanis Club while discussing the potential road, local man Sam Williams said, “Why don’t we have a wagon train? Since our roads are only fit for covered wagons.”

The others chuckled and smiled, but community leader Charles Hall grew serious and said, “Wait a minute, Sam’s suggestion makes sense.”

How could this small town attract attention to their plight? A modern-day wagon train from Tellico Plains to Robbinsville would be a perfect story to capture the media’s attention—and it worked better than any of them could have guessed. The trip was scheduled for July 4th. Newspapers and TV stations covered the event which turned into a huge festival. The organizers had hoped for eight or ten wagons participating, but instead they had sixty.

The 21-mile journey was just as rough as they were expecting, since the land was completely undeveloped, but it got the attention they needed and became an annual tradition that continues to this day. Charles Hall led the push, and by 1960, the journey reached an incredible attendance of 105 wagons and almost 800 horseback riders. The demonstrations worked, and in 1962, Congress made the first allocation for the road. There were many obstacles to the road’s completion including opposition from environmental groups

that shut down construction on the North Carolina section from 1968 to 1983. Eventually, an agreement was reached and the road was finished in 1996 for a total cost of $100 million. Today, I’ll be driving it for the first time.

It’s important to be fully prepared before going on the Skyway as there are no stops for miles. Also, it’s a long trip, so make sure to start early. This time, before heading out, I stop for a snack and drink at the Tellico Grains Bakery where I get a delicious raspberry and white chocolate scone. Next, I fill up on gas then start down the skyway. Another good place to stop is the Tellico Beach, a small drive-in, near the beginning of the Skyway, along the banks of the Tellico River.

At first the Skyway isn’t too different from any other road, the massive trees on either side are certainly beautiful. But it’s when we pass the first gap in the trees that I truly understand why this road is such a land-

mark. Swirling mountain ranges, covered in trees, stretch into the distance, forming valleys between them like grooves in a giant fingerprint. This is the Cherokee National Forest, and farther down the road, I’ll pass into the Nantahala National Forest. The word Cherohala is a combination of the two forest names. The ridges are covered in a thick woodland that seems to stretch on forever, and I wonder how long I could run through it without encountering a single other person.

With a maximum elevation of more than 5,400 feet, the Skyway truly offers incredible views. I pull to the side of the road to admire the scenery. Nearby, a man is camped by the road under the shade of a pop-up canopy. He faces the road, a large camera in his lap. A graphic on his car reads 129Photos.com Xtreme Sports Photography. I strike up a conversation with the man who introduces himself as Jason. He explains that he snaps

pictures of passing cars and motorcycles. Those who are interested can go online, find the picture of their vehicle, and buy it. People come hundreds of miles to ride the Skyway in expensive sports cars, and Jason’s photography provides them with a convenient memento of their trip.

As we talk, a series of deafening Porsches pass by, loud enough to drown out our conversation. We can hear them for a full 30 seconds after they disappear around the curve. “And that’s them going slow,” Jason says once they’ve passed. I watch as other beautiful (and expensive) cars and motorcycles race by before I return to my car.

As I continue driving, the scenery just grows more stunning. I don’t know if I’ve ever seen so much forest, sprawled like an explorer’s dream across ridges and mountains. No wonder the ancients believed in monsters lurking in the deepest woods beyond civilization. It’s hard not to with views like this.

About 14 miles from Tellico Plains, I pass the turn off for the Indian Boundary Campground. At this family-friendly stop, visitors can camp, swim, or fish at the lake and hike or bike the trails, all against a beautiful mountain backdrop. The site also has a store selling supplies in case you forget anything. If you like hiking, you’re in luck, because there are many other trails along the Skyway.

After several more miles, I get an especially stunning view while crossing the Charles Hall Bridge, named after the Tellico Plains mayor who fought so hard for this road. This 700-foot bridge over Laurel Branch stands at 4,000 feet in elevation, making it one of the highest major bridges in the area. According to the Charles Hall Museum and Heritage Center in Tellico Plains, the bridge opened to traffic early in 1983 at a cost of 1.1 million, although it wouldn’t be named and dedicated as the Charles Hall Bridge until 1997.

When I reach the end of the Skyway, I seek out Tapoco Lodge for lunch. The large historic building is nearly 100 years old and looks slightly out of place after so much uninterrupted nature. It was originally built to house workers for the Tallassee Power Company, from which it gets its name, while they built the Cheoah Dam and other hydroelectric dams in the area. Today, the building is a hotel and restaurant.

After I’m seated, I order “Ethan’s Signature Burger” which is good, though a bit expensive. Honestly, I’m a little nervous not to eat too much since I know what’s coming next. Driving back, I’ll be taking the Tail of the Dragon, also called Deals Gap, which is known—with good reason—as one of the most dangerous roads in America due to its sharp curves: 318 in just 11 miles according to the marketing, at elevations reaching over 1,960 feet.

I leave the lodge and head towards the Tail.

At the start is the infamous “Tree of Shame” decorated with broken parts of crashed vehicles who had failed the road’s test. Not wanting to end up among them, I’m planning to take this road very slowly.

The road is like a roller coaster, and I often have to slow to 10 miles per hour or under to safely make a turn. Some of the drivers behind me aren’t so cautious, however, and I have to pull to the side two or three times to let them pass. Along the way, I encounter many other photographers like Jason snapping pictures of passing cars and motorcycles. The views on the Dragon are incredible, just like the Skyway. The road itself is a cross between a scenic drive and a thrill ride, even if you’re taking it slowly, as I am. I’ve heard one driver describe it as “the most exciting 11 miles I’ve ever driven in my life.”

The Tail of the Dragon and the Skyway, are both Meccas to car- and motorcycle-enthusiasts. The two roads aren’t just ways to reach

your destination but destinations in and of themselves. While the route has existed since before the founding of our country, it became popular as a tourist attraction in the 1990s due to marketing and a newsletter by motorcycle enthusiast Doug Snavely.

As I reach the end of my road trip, I think of the men and women who fought so hard to get the Skyway built. I imagine them, like their ancestors before them, riding covered wagons across hills and mountains into the sunset, like the pioneers of old, like a living portrait of American history.

SOME QUICK TIPS BEFORE YOU SET OUT ON YOUR TRIP.

Check your tires. The Dragon will wear on your tread, so make sure you have plenty.

Check your brakes. This includes brake fluid; make sure that it is not dark colored. The last thing you want is a brake failure on this road.

Get plenty of sleep. Even though it is just 11 miles, this journey is tough on the mind and body. Be prepared in both respects.

Be respectful of other drivers. The Dragon is simply too dangerous for any showboating or turf battles.

It is best to keep your clothes on!

DRAGON SLAYERS

Killboy has a team of photographers stationed along the famous Tail of the Dragon ready to capture your Dragon slayer moment.

Darryl and Lori Cannon are the owners of the Killboy team of professional photographers.

Killboy started in 2001 and has been featured in dozens of magazines, books, and even on The Discovery Channel, History Channel, and Travel Channel, killboy.com is your source for motorsports photography and area scenery around the world-famous Tail of the Dragon at Deals Gap TN/NC. They recently won a Sports Emmy for Outstanding Camera work for the Dragon.

Our team of photographers are also available for private or corporate photography and video.

You can also find us at the Tail of the Dragon & Killboy Shack located on the North Carolina side of the Tail of the Dragon.

Our store is open from March through October, 9am – 6pm.