discover Summer 2013
S I LV E R C O A S T . P O R T U G A L
Alcobaça Town Focus
Nature Reserves . Food & Drink Kid’s Days Out . Cultural Centres
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Contents
Olá elcome to Discover Silver Coast, Summer 2013.
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In this edition we are proud to showcase some of what this region has to offer. A great place to visit at any time of the year, whether you want to discover the beaches (page 12), or try something new foodwise (page 34), we hope you will enjoy reading, this, our third magazine. If you are visiting for the first time, or are a seasoned ‘silver coaster’, Discover can help you fill your days, shop ’til you drop (page 36), find a taxi (page 43) and even plan your next visit (back page)! Boas ferias The Discover Team
WISH YOU WERE HERE 4 A Natural Surprise 8 Rural Tourism / Quinta Antes o Vento 8 An Apple A Day 12 Discover Our Beaches 24 Out & About With Kids 26 Rainy Days & Kids 29 Alcobaça Or The Aquitaine ARTS & CULTURE 14 Cultural & Historical Places Of Interest 18 Towns At A Glance / Leiria, Torres Vedras, Alcobaça, Caldas da Rainha FOOD & DRINK 11 Local People / Bruno’s Bar, Peniche 33 Salt Mines Of Rio Maior 34 The Best Of Portuguese Food 36 Local People / Maratona Restaurant 36 Shop ’Til You Drop 39 Local People / Jennifer Moseley
The Discover Team
design. Bo Lemm www.thebodesign.com photography. Nigel Harper www.nigelharper.com editing and copywriting. Deborah Brown deborah_bro@hotmail.com
www.discoversilvercoast.com
EXTRA 26 Did You Know...? 41 Local People / Ben Van Reede 42 Basic Portuguese Phrases 42 National Holidays 43 Taxis 45 Property Book
facebook.com/discoversilvercoast © discover silver coast sponsored by cover photo. Nigel Harper
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WISH YOU WERE HERE
words by Terence Austin
hen was the last time you made a surprising discovery and enjoyed it? If you are anything like me you are probably glad to eat a nice meal somewhere, share a smile with friends or discover those keys which went missing a week ago. However, I am thinking of happiness on another level.
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I revel living here on the Silver Coast. It’s such a fabulous realm I seldom feel the need to seek out life and experiences in other places. Recently, however, I have seen another promised land which offers a different type of seductive Eden and it’s only a few kilometres drive away. If it’s possible for fragments of heaven to fall to earth then in my opinion they did just that in the form of the natural parks of Serras do Aire e Candeeiros and the Serra da Estrela natural parks. These places are magical lands that offer rugged beauty, unbelievable vistas and the opportunity to change and cultivate your life through interaction. 4
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The natural park of the Serras De Aire and Candeeiros is closest to the Silver Coast. It sweeps south from the quaint town of Porto Do Mos and covers an area of approximately 35,000 hectares. It was created in 1979, not many years after Portugal’s revolution. It has a typically Mediterranean dramatic limestone landscape, sometimes austere and very majestic. With ancient dry stone walls, craggy outcrops and twisted, knotty ancient olive trees, fragrant junipers and black oaks it provides a dramatic backdrop for all kinds of sports, pastimes and pleasures. The region is famous for its geology and much of the park is riddled with rich veins of calcium deposits underfoot. Over millennia these have eroded to create cave systems with cathedral like dimensions. Back in 1947, while a local young lad was out and about in the park chasing a sparrow he made a huge discovery, now recognised as one of the seven natural wonders of Portugal, the Grutas De Mira De Aire. Today, you can visit
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A Natural Surprise this collection of magnificent underground chambers which offer a mystical voyage into subterranean awesomeness. Fantastic stalactites and stalagmites are lit like a giant opera set and you can marvel at the cave system with chambers and features including names such as Hells Door, Jelly Fish, Organ not to mention the Black River and the Great Lake. With a ceiling height of twenty metres they deliver spectacle and utter impact. There’s also accommodation, guided tours, a restaurant and at surface level, panoramic views which make for a great day out. Further north another precious stone in the crown of tourist Portugal shines out. Portugal’s biggest and romantically named Serra Da Estrella or Mountain Range of the Star is another natural park. This jewel comprises the highest mountain range in Portugal and provides an additional surprise for the more adventurous. Instead of white hot days of sun soaking on beaches why not tempt
yourself with snow white days of skiing and snowboarding! Feel the frost nip in the Vodafone Ski Resort which has ski lifts, over seven kilometres of pistes offering challenges for beginners, intermediates and experienced skiers alike. The resort perches atop a mountain range which reaches an altitude of nearly two thousand metres. The park spreads out to cover over 100,000 hectares, over half of it is above 700 metres and it’s also the birthplace of three rivers; the Modego, Zêzere and Alva. In all the parks covered here there exists a multitude of things to do. Obviously with all this space, fresh air and landscape you can enjoy walking and hiking cross country or along the many kilometres of trails and tracks. These avenues also present mountain bikers the possibility of challenging great days out and cyclists to hit the open road and wear their own yellow leaders vest in a self styled Tour de Portugal. discover 5
Telm: 914 596 390 email: unionjacs@sapo.pt www.unionjacs.com www.facebook.com/unionjacs
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WISH YOU WERE HERE
A Natural Surprise Amongst the rocks, ravines and rivers try out some orienteering and rock climbing skills or swish down a rope while abseiling your way past giant white limestone edifices of rock. Take another view of the parks from a different perspective and try a more leisurely ride through this big country on horseback. Other land based activities to pursue include bird watching or botany, and why not settle down for a leisurely afternoon picnic in one of the many beauty spots. Take some binoculars along because you could well see a wild cat, otters, Algerian wall lizards, badgers and even a lone wolf.
out for trout, black bass, zander, pike and carp and many more fish species. If you need a more dynamic experience why not share the skies with that rarest of birds the Peregrine Falcon. Feel the wind beneath your wings and soar to see the fastest bird on earth close up from a hang glider or microlite. The rewards are all there, so tempt yourself, try something surprisingly new, take the risk and amaze yourself. These natural parks will allow you to search, seek and find another, deeper you.
For the more aquatic minded there are thrills on tap with plunges and swims into dark limped local rock pools and bubbly, busy, boulder strewn streams, crystal rivers and languid lakes. By just taking up an oar you can boat, canoe or kayak your way into paradise. Out of the water, take to the margin of a riverbank or pond, relax, ponder and cast a line discover 7
WISH YOU WERE HERE THE LAND OF APPLES The Alcobaça Apple is the most famous of the PGI (Protected Geographical Indications) qualified Portuguese apples. Apple plantation in Alcobaça dates back to 1154, when Claraval monks settled there. This apple is famous for its sweetness, perfume and colour. It was the ideal dessert after a copious meal. Nowadays, you can find several varieties: Royal Gala, Delicious, Jonagold, Fuji, Casanova, Alcobaça, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith and Reineta Parda.
Rural Tourism Quinta Antes O Vento Eight years ago, Dutch couple Francine Satijn and Loek Mandaat, bought the beautiful Quinta Antes O Vento to offer alternative accommodation in the heart of apple country. Empty for fifteen years, with the help of friends and neighbours, this rural haven now has two apartments and a Yurt with an outside barbeque area and a plunge pool. 10km from the coast, in between Alcobaça and Caldas da Rainha, the area is perfect for walking: guided walks can be arranged. Enthusiasts of all things Portuguese, you are assured not only of a warm welcome but a stay packed with ideas of things to do and see. Francine Satijn & Loek Mandaat Rua Principal, Ribeira do Carrasqueiro 2460-781 Vimeiro, Alcobaça Tel: 00351 262 585 058 Mob: 00351 911 906 181 Email: francinesatijn@gmail.com 8
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words by Deborah Brown
Able to be preserved for long periods, the apple is the most produced fresh fruit on the continent, mostly cultivated in regions such as Lisbon (Ribatejo and West), Oporto and North (Trás-osMontes) and Central region. There is currently a flurry of excitement within the apple community in Portugal. Apples are known to have many health promoting
activities,
especially
anticancer, antiradical and antioxidant effects.
Four traditional Portuguese
apple cultivars were evaluated. were
found
to
have
the
Two
highest
antioxidant effect and one variety found to
be
the
best
in
promoting
antiproliferative effect against human colon and gastric cancer cells.
WISH YOU WERE HERE
ALCOBAÇA
At around 80 calories, apples are valuable to health providing fibre, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Apple puree is a delicious side dish to poultry dishes. The baked apple (reineta) with cinnamon, sugar and Port wine is a famous dessert in Portugal, commonly found in restaurants across Portugal. from north to south. Try Portuguese apple cake and delicious apple fritters.
An apple a day short drive inland from the coast takes you to a whole other Portugal. Nestling amongst the hills and forests are picturesque quintas surrounded by orchards bursting with apples and pears.
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Despite heavy losses seen this year, temperatures in spring and summer and excessive rains, apple productions have reached worldwide levels with Portugal producing around 164,000 tonnes of the 11.8 million tonnes of apples from the EU. It is said that archaeologists have evidence of people eating apples as far back as 6500 B.C. Current estimates suggest 81% of world apple production are consumed in fresh markets, whilst the remaining 19% is used for juice.
Did you know...? Cider was once very popular in Northern Portugal where its yield was larger than wine production until the eleventh century. Apple trees don’t bear their fruit until they are four or five years old. The largest apple ever picked weighed three pounds and 2 ounces, nearly one and a half kilograms!
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FOOD & DRINK
Local People Bar do Bruno
FOOD
. MUSIC . SURF . GOOD PEOPLE
Phone: 262 184 212 www.balealsurfcamp.com
INDÚSTRIA DE VELAS, S.A.
Promol is one of Europe’s largest candle manufacturers Store Hours: Monday to Friday from 13:30 to 17:30 Entrance opposite Post Office
Rua José Libânio, Lote 12 – Zona Industrial 2500-758 Caldas da Rainha – Portugal
www.promol.pt
Tel: +351 262 837 140
General: promol@promol.pt
Fax: +351 262 842 120
Store: loja@promol.pt discover 11
WISH YOU WERE HERE
Be Safe Don't go into the sea for three hours after eating. Try to go into the water with a friend so that one of you can call for help if the other gets into difficulty. After sun bathing go into the water slowly as your body needs time to adjust to the change in temperature - jumping straight in can be dangerous.
words by Deborah Brown photography by Nigel Harper
BF = Blue Flag S = surfing A = accessible FF = family friendly Peniche BF S FF The busy fishing town of Peniche has sandy beaches, a restaurant lined harbour, a nature reserve and a world-famous surfing spot where it is claimed it is always possible to find a surfable wave. Something for everyone, the best known beaches are Baleal, Lagide and Supertubos. Óbidos Lagoon BF S FF The Lagoon of Óbidos is the largest sea-water lagoon in Portugal, with an average depth of 2 metres, and a sandy beach surround that meets the Atlantic Ocean. Perfect for families, around the lagoon are beautiful quiet walks and cycle tracks embracing the pine woods, beach side restaurants. To the nearside of the lagoon, is the lovely peaceful Praia Do Bom Sucesso miles of soft white sanded beach surrounding the lagoon creating safe swimming & bathing. 12
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During the summer many beaches are patrolled by lifeguards and display the safety flags. Be aware also that along this western Atlantic coastline the ocean can be pretty wild with a heavy undertow so some of the more remote beaches can be dangerous.
Foz do Arelho BF A FF On the north shore of the stunning Óbidos Lagoon lies Foz do Arelho. A popular small village with fish restaurants and cafe's, the safe swimming make it an ideal spot for children, and there is access for visitors with disabilities. São Martinho do Porto BF FF The pretty bay of São Martinho do Porto has a very safe beach sheltered from the sea by cliffs, with just a narrow stretch of water opening to the ocean. Perfect for children, the bay is lined with cafes and restaurants and souvenir shops. Nazaré BF S FF Colourful and bustling, Nazaré has a vast
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Discover Our Beaches P ortugal has some of the most spectacular beaches and seascapes in the world. With over 850 kilometres of coastline, visitors can sunbathe along the white sand, surf the beautiful waters, explore nature and enjoy cafes and restaurants with fresh seafood dishes – relaxation and adventure all in one. Many of
stretch of open sands, with a sea front crammed with cafes, bars, restaurants and seaside shops. Very busy in the summer months but fantastic the rest of the year. The Praia de Norte is the home of the “Nazaré Canyon” which in 2011, produced a 30m wave, the biggest wave ever surfed in the world. São Pedro do Moel BF The beach of São Pedro de Moel, near Marinha Grande is said to be one of the most picturesque beaches in the country. Sheltered by the land on three sides, the small village is surrounded by pine forests containing lakes.
the most popular beaches have sheltered areas for swimming and are patrolled by lifeguards.
The seaside towns of Peniche, Nazaré and Figueira da Foz are renowned for top quality surfing, body boarding, diving and other water-sports and excellent fish restaurants.
The Blue Flag scheme began in 1985 and is currently recognised in 41 countries throughout Europe. The strict criteria cover many aspects including cleanliness, environmental management and safety with regular checks to ensure that standards are upheld. Of the 275 blue flag beaches in Portugal, 49 are situated on the Silver Coast.
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>
ARTS & CULTURE Óbidos
Conimbriga > l
l
>
Batalha > l Alcobaça > l
Fátima
Tomar
l<
l
Torres Vedras, Vimeiro & Mafra
>
>
Lourinhã
Óbidos
Cultural & Historical T he culture and history of Portugal is extensive but it should be appreciated that it has grown out of centuries of power and battles fought over religion and for this reason the places of interest are generally associated with churches and castles, but don’t let this put you off discovering the real Portugal.
excavated the remains of the Roman City of Eburobrittium which is located just outside of the walls where there was a harbour for exporting the local produce.
Óbidos Óbidos has been nominated as one of the seven wonders of Portugal. This gem of a small walled town, traces its history back to the Celts who, around 308BC, occupied this hill top overlooking a sea inlet. We now know this as the Lagoa de Óbidos. Since this time the town and its’ surrounds have been home to the Romans, followed by the Germanic Visigoth tribes who in turn were ousted by the Islamic conquerers and then, in 1148 the Christian King Alfonso took Óbidos from the Moors.
Torres Vedras & Vimeiro This ancient town is principally know for the construction of the ‘Lines of Torres Vedras’ which was a defensive system built to protect Lisbon during the French Invasions between 1807 to 1811 under the command of the General Wellington. The ‘Lines’ successfully defeated Napoleon’s ambitions of controlling Portugal and swiftly brought the Peninsular Wars to a conclusion.
In recent years archaeologists have partially 14
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In discovering this town, the fascinating little streets, shops, museum, churches, castle and a walk around the town wall, all provide an insight into its past.
However, the town’s history actually goes back to the earliest known date of 11BC but the Castle, built by the Moors, was taken by King
Batalha
Vimeiro
ARTS & CULTURE
Places Of Interest Alfonso in 1148. Since then there have been many battles for the town, reflecting the history of the monarchs of Portugal. The Castle continued as a fortification up until 1846 when under bombardment its gunpowder store was hit and destroyed the castle. The town contains both modern and old shopping areas and adjacent to the Convento da Graça exists the Municipal Museum which tells the history of the Peninsular War. Whilst in the area, the nearby coastal beach of Praia Novo (where Wellington landed his troops) and the village of Vimeiro, where one of Wellington’s earlier victorious battles took place and now contains a modern Battle Interpretation Centre, are worth visiting. Batalha & Aljubarrota Batalha itself is a small town dominated by the Convent cathedral built to commemorate the victory over the SpanIsh monarchy in 1385 at the battle of Aljubarrota. The building which took over 100 years to complete has an overall
words by David Clarke
architectural style similar to those of York and Canterbury cathedrals but still contains many influences of Portuguese architecture. The Convent contains the joint tombs of King John I of Portugal and his English wife Philipa of Lancaster, together with their 4 younger sons. The visit to this beautiful building should be combined with a visit to the Military Museum of Aljubarrota. This Battle Interpretation Centre explains the reasons and the victory of this battle for Portuguese independence. It should be noted that this Museum has an excellent audiovisual reenactment of the battle, which can be enjoyed equally by children and adults. Lourinhã If you are interested in prehistory and the paleontological remains which include fossilised bones, footprints, eggs and even embryos from the Jurassic dinosaurs which roamed the Silver Coast area of Portugal then a visit to the Museu da Lourinha can be recommended. discover 15
ARTS & CULTURE Mafra Mafra is interesting if you like palaces. The town is small but the Palacio de Mafra is a very large gothic palace with a Franciscan monastery. It was started in 1711 for the King John V with the wealth coming from Brazil at this time. The palace was located near good hunting forests which today still exist as the Mafra Tapada. The Tapada is open to the public and offers various cycle rides on routes of different grades of difficulty. Also available is a train ride through the forest to see the animals, Falconry, horse riding, and other activities which are offered in a daily programme. For more info call 261 817 050 or www.tapadademafra.pt Fátima & Ourém The Sanctuary of Fátima is the most important religious place in catholic Portugal. It is the site where on 13 May 1917 an apparition of a lady dressed in white appeared to 3 children whilst guarding their sheep. The apparition of Our Lady, visited the children on the 13th day of each month between 13 May and 13 October 1917. The Sanctuary has developed since those days from a simple chapel to a place where thousands of pilgrims come annually on the dates of the apparitions. Two Basilicas have now been constructed at either end of Sanctuary. A few kilometers away a visit can be made to Ourém which a very old fortified hill top town with magnificent views. It is a very tranquil location where you can walk the quiet street and investigate the remains of the palace and castle of the Count of Ourém and imagine the history that has passed through this small town since its early domination by the Muslims and the subsequent Christian overlords. The new town of Ourém located nearby contains a small museum which presents an interesting view of the local rural life and is 16
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located in the house of the towns Administrator who originally interviewed the 3 children from Fátima. Tomar & The Castle Of Almourol Tomar is famous for the castle and convent constructed by Order of the Knights Templar in 1160. From this beginning until they were disbanded in 1834, the Convento de Cristo has played an important part in Portugal’s history. The Templars initially defended Portugal from the Moors then later they expanded the wealth of the country with Henry the Navigator during the period of the Portuguese discoveries of early trade routes round Africa. With this wealth the Convento invested in developing the town of Tomar to attract industry and commerce to the area. This, in turn, bought the skills of the Jewish craftsmen and traders to the town together with their synagogue which still stands today. The Convento is maintained in a good state and is particularly famous for Manueline architectural style and the famous Manueline Window in the convent that reflects the period of the Discoveries. Tomar is an attactive town, dominated on the high ground by the Convento, below which exists the old town that runs down to the riverside gardens. Nearby on the River Tejo between Constancia and Tancos can be found the Castle Of Almourol situated on an island in the middle of the river and is reached by ferry. Little is known of the castle which was originally built for defensive reasons. However, this tranquil location, which is ideal for a day out, is surrounded with myths of deaths and tragic love stories. Alcobaça This attactive little town has developed over time around the Cistercian Monastery of Alcobaça. The original church was built by King
Fátima
Alcobaça
Castle of Almourol
ARTS & CULTURE
Cultural & Historical Places Of Interest couple has now become embedded into Portuguese culture. Conimbriga This Roman site is the largest Roman settlement in Portugal and lies 16 km south of University city of Coimbra (near Condeixa-aNova). The site is thought to originally be a Celtic fortification from 9th century BC but developed rapidly from the 2nd century BC when the Romans made it a major city in the Iberian Peninsula. This National Monument is well worth a visit and can be combined with a visit to Coimbra and see one of the oldest university in continuous operation in the world. The Library in particular is very beautiful. Conimbriga
Alfonso Henriques after his victory over the Moors at the Battle of Santarem in 1147, in fulfillment of a promise made to the Abbot of the French Cistercian Order. By 1223 the Gothic building was finished. Inside the architectural style is very plain although over the years different styles have been added. The monastery reflects the academic and religious meditation of this order of monks with the largest mediaeval library in Portugal before being pillaged by the invading French in 1810 and later anticlerical riots in 1834. The Monastery housed many monks and this can be seen by the size and capacity of the kitchen and dining area. Besides their religious works the monks were responsible for extensive agricultural areas and developing a farming culture and techniques with their lands. The importance of the monastery can be seen by the number of royal tombs that are contained there and in particular the tombs of King Dom Pedro I and his mistress Ines de Castro who was murdered by the order of Pedro’s father King Alfonso IV. The tragic love story of this
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ARTS & CULTURE / TOWNS AT A GLANCE
Leiria This historic city is relatively small but is famous for its Castle, picturesque cobbled streets, gardens and squares. The old part of the city has an ancient fountain in the centre, illuminated at night. Popular with locals and students, the old quarter centred around Praça Roderigues Lobo, has streets radiating from the square full of cafes and bars. Leira's cathedral was built in the second half of the 16th century and closeby is the beautifully tiled 19th century Pharmacy Leonardo Paiva, now a bar. For a pleasant riverside walk, try the Jardim Luis de Camoes.
Population - 126.87 2011 Leiria is twinned with: Halton, United Kingdom São Paulo, Brazil Tokushima, Japan Maringá, Brazil
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words by Deborah Brown
Art & Culture Castle of Leiria Listed as a National Monument since 1910, the Castle also houses cultural events. Close to the castle, the Church of Saint Peter “Igreja de São Pedro” is used for Leiria's annual music festival. Museums M|i|Mo (Leiria Castle area), Portugal's only Museum of the Moving Image. Paper museum, “Museu do moinho do papel”, located at the site of Portugal's first paper mill. Theatres Miguel Franco in the market Sant'Ana, “Mercado de Sant' Ana” and José Lúcio da Silva. Both are venues for theatre, music dance performances and cinema. Leiria is the birthplace of several leading Portuguese poets including Afonso Lopes Vieira and Francisco Rodrigues Lobo, after whom the central square “Praça Rodrigues Lobo” is named. On the second Sunday of every month an antiques market is held in the central square.
Economy Leiria has an economy concentrated on services and light industries with Monte Real Air Base, a major Military airbase of the Portuguese Air Force being a notable employer in the region. Also: Plastics and moulds, Animal food, Milling, Cement, Civil construction, Agriculture, Tourism Shopping A Municipal market, boutiques and specialist shops as well as several new shopping centres and superstores can all be found in Leiria. The city is famous for its “Louça da Bajouca”, beautiful clear glazed plates with swirls of red and white through the centre, and the “Sogras de Leiria”, small circular pads of cloth that women used as padding when carrying water jugs or baskets on their heads. Food Meat lovers try “Chanfana”, stew with goat meat, roasted leg of Lamb, “Cozido à Portuguesa”, pork sausages and grilled pork steaks. “Brisas do Lis” and “Lampreia d’Ovos” are the most famous of the sweets.
ARTS & CULTURE / TOWNS AT A GLANCE
Torres Vedras Art & Culture In the city are various notable churches, an aqueduct, a medieval castle and the fort of St. Vincente. Visit the lovely Santa Maria do Castelo Church; the ruins of the Alcaides Palace; the Santiago and Misericórdia Churches; the Nossa Senhora da Nazaré, Nossa Senhora da Pena, Sagrado Coração de Jesus and Nossa Senhora de Fátima Chapels; the Santa Mirinha and São Gião secluded Chapels and the Church and Convent of Varatojo, founded in1470. The 16th century Graça Convent is home to the Municipal Museum dedicated to the Peninsular War and the history, art and ethnology of the region. Nearby beaches are Santa Rita Beach, used by experienced surf and body boarders, and Santa Cruz.
Economy Agriculture, notably beans and potatoes; Wine, the district has highest national wine production; Metal production; Food production; Retail; Tourism. In 2011, Torres Vedras has received the Quality Coast Gold Award for its efforts to become a sustainable tourist destination.
Shopping Torres Vedras is a mix of old and new with many big names in the city’s Arena shopping centre. The centre has cobbled areas and squares with cafes and restaurants and an eclectic mix of shops. The city has an area of jewellery shops, some established a century ago, selling more expensive items. On the outskirts of the city are the DIY stores and a large sporting goods superstore.
Food Try “pastéis de feijão” or bean cakes. Almonds and beans are added to the usual egg custard mix which are associated with and produced from several factories in Torres Vedras. Other regional specialities include “Cozido à Portuguesa”, meats and sausages boiled with vegetables, “Frango Assado” roasted chicken and “Favada à Portuguesa”, a slow cooked dish of beans and different cuts of pork.
Taken from the Moors in 1148, Torres Vedras nestles in hills and valleys filled with vineyards. With its strong agricultural, industrial and commercial life, the municipality was donated to the queens of the realm and has remained a place of importance throughout its history. With much of its history focusing on battle, Torres Vedras moved into years of progress and development, supported by the expansion of the rail-lines in 1886, the installation of the electrical grid in 1912, and finally the canalisation of waters to the town by 1926. These changes helped support a growth, construction of new areas and road ways, resulting in the town's reclassification as a city in 1979. Population 75,494 2001 Twin towns Villenave-d'Ornon, France discover 19
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ARTS & CULTURE / TOWNS AT A GLANCE
Art & Culture
Alcobaça Alcobaca
Mosteiro de Alcobaça - tel: +351 262 505 128 Opening hours: Summer (April to September): 9.00 to 19.00 Winter (October to March): 9.00 to 17.00 National Wine Museum The Museu Nacional do Vinho was established in 1968, and is located about 1.2 km east of Alcobaça, in a former winery. The museum’s cellar has a collection of thousands of bottles of wine from all over the country, many more than 50 years old. Apart from learning the wine making process, you can see objects and tools used in the wine industry and a collection of earthenware pitchers from the Alentejo. Museu Nacional do Vinho, Rua de Leiria, Olival Fechado, Alcobaça Tel: +351 262 582 222 - Fax: +351 262 582 222
Fairs & Celebrations
Carnaval de Alcobaça - February Alcobaça music festival - May Saint Bernard's fair - August 20 Municipal holiday - August 20 Saint Simon's fair - 4th week of October Market days - Every Monday International display of Sweets and Conventual Liqueurs – November
Economy The most prominent economic activities in the area are: Fruit production, in particular the Alcobaça apple and the Rock West pear; Pig farming; Ceramics, stoneware and crystal; Moulds for the plastic industry; Manufacture of cement; Tourism. Food
From the countryside surrounding Alcobaça, try traditional pork casseroles, oven baked goat, stewed rabbit with rice, grilled skewers of beef with garlic and “Leitão” suckling pig. Pork is also cooked with mussels in a Cataplana, a wok-like dish that seals in the flavours. Famous for "gínginha" cherry liquor and its dried fruits and preserves, Alcobaça is also known especially for its “Frango na Pucara”, chicken and ham cooked in a covered clay pot containing brandy, port and vinho verde. In November the town holds a fair to celebrate its sweets and pastries. “Doçes Conventuais”, sweets from the convent, originated in the fifteenth century. Every region has its own version and there are many different types: custards, puddings, ‘nun’s bellies’ (“barrigas de freira”), ‘angel’s chests’ (“papo de anjo”), French toast, soft eggs, candied egg threads, rice puddings, ‘bacon from heaven’ and the most famous of all “Pasteis de Nata”.
Alcobaça is famous for its 18 century monastery. Portugal’s largest, primitive gothic church, the monastery in the heart of the town, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is around 900 years old. As impressive inside as out, the Grand Kitchen has a chimney large enough to roast an ox and a stream running through it. Recently given a ‘freshen up’, Alcobaça has a pedestrian shopping area lined with cafes, restaurants and bars. Several museums, a theatre and shops selling antiques, crystal, ceramics and regional wine can also be found within this quiet farming town. Outside the monastery are several shops selling traditional handicrafts. There are four main supermarkets in Alcobaça and a farmers’ Co-op. Population 56,676 - 2011 Alcobaça is twinned with: Bełchatów, Poland Cacuaco, Angola Aubergenville, France Chicopee, USA discover 21
JEFFâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S
HAIR CARE Hairdresser & Beautician
35 years of experience 23 years in Caldas da Rainha, Portugal Ambassador of WELLA HAIRDRESSING COLOURING BEAUTICIAN INTENSIVE HAIR TREATMENTS
A8 Exit 18. Follow signs to Vivaci Shopping Centre for parking. 2 minute walk from Shopping Centre. Accept Mastercard, Visa and American Express Portuguese, English, German and Dutch spoken
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ALEXANDER & JEFF LDA Rua Belchior de Matos 10, 2500-284 Caldas da Rainha Tel: 262 842 811 Email: alex.jeff@sapo.pt
ARTS & CULTURE / TOWNS AT A GLANCE Art & Culture
Centro Cultural e de Congressos The Centro Cultural e de Congressos (CCC) hosts music, theatre, dance and cinema, and various expositions and conferences. Expoeste - Centro de Exposições do Oeste, is an indoor event space. It hosts a variety of events, including bridal expos, seasonal festivals, fruit expos, and car shows. One of the most popular events is the annual summer festival, popularly called "tasquinhas". Over week and a half in August, food from each of the freguesias is available to purchase and sample. Centro de Artes, Rua Dr. Ilídio Amado, +351 262 840 540, e-mail: centro.artes@cm-caldas-rainha.pt. M W–F 9:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Sa Su & holidays 9:00–13:00 & 15:00–18:00, closed Tu, Christmas, New Year's Day, Easter & 1st May. The Arts Center is a collection of several museums, largely dedicated to sculpture, but also housing paintings. Free admission. Hospital Termal Rainha D. Leonor The oldest building was begun in 1474 and the newest was completed in 1750. Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Pópulo, Largo da Copa. Built in 1500 as the royal chapel associated with the thermal hospital, this church features Late Gothic, Manueline, and Mudéjar styles. The interior is lined with tiles, including original Hispano-Arab tiles on the side altars. Museu da Cerâmica, Rua Dr. Ilídio Amado, 97, +351 262 840 280, e-mail: mceramica@drcc.pt. Tu–Su 10:00–17:30 (winter), 10:00–19:00 (summer). The Ceramics Museum has a wide collection of 17-20th century ceramics from Caldas, Portugal and other world-wide locations. €2, €0.80 with youth card, €1 disabled or over 65, free to all Sundays and holidays until 14:00, always free up to age 14. Museu do Ciclismo, Rua de Camões, 57. This small museum is dedicated to cycling, with displays featuring historic bicycles. Museu do Hospital e das Caldas da Rainha, Rua Rodrigo Berquó, +351 262 830 300, e-mail: mushospcaldas@sapo.pt. Tu–Sa & holidays 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–17:30, Su 9:00–12:00, closed M. Situated in a former royal palace, this museum presents the history of the thermal hospital and of the city of Caldas. €3, €1.50 for retirees and youth card holders, free to age 14. Parque D. Carlos I The park is centrally located and is the main green space in Caldas da Rainha. The Museu José Malhoa can be found in the middle of the park. You can row a boat on the small lake and enjoy a wide range of sculptures.
Shopping Caldas da Rainha has a mix of specialist shops, shopping centres, supermarkets, hypermarkets and international chains. Several small indoor shopping centres, most with only a handful of stores, may be found throughout the city. Vivaci's Shopping Mall has four floors contain sixty stores. These include fourteen restaurants, a five-screen movie theatre and a supermarket. CaldasShopping is located at the intersection of Rua Dr. Miguel Bombarda and Rua Raul Proença, and has forty shops and indoor and outdoor esplanades seating 200 to 250. Food “Trouxas de ovos” a special occassion egg roll soaked in surgary syrup. “Cavacas das Caldas”, a small-bowl-sized, shell-shaped sweet is made with flour and eggs, and has a crunchy sugar covering. In June 2005, a 26m pyramid of cavacas was erected on Praça 25 de Abril in front of the city hall. “Beijinhos das Caldas” (kisses) are similar, but are smaller and round.
Caldas
da Rainha Caldas da Rainha is famous both for ceramics “louça das Caldas” and its thermal springs. It was founded by Queen Leonor, wife of King João II, who ordered a thermal hospital built so that others might enjoy the relief that she had experienced when trying the waters. Caldas da Rainha is also an artistic city. Works of art, statues and sculptures can be found, not just in museums, but dotted throughout the city in parks and on roundabouts. The city is home to a college of art and design and a vocational school devoted to ceramics. Population of 51,645 Caldas da Rainha is twinned with the following places: Poços de Caldas, Minas Gerais, Brazil Huambo, Angola—since May 1, 2007 discover 23
words by Deborah Brown
DinoKart - Lourinh찾 With a track of 920 metres x 8 metres wide, DinoKart invest only in good quality materials for their karts and have a store and repair centre on site. Catering for children with adapted and mini karts, whilst waiting for your speed hounds enjoy the snack bar. Casal da Murta, EN 247, 2530 Lourinh찾 Tel / Fax: +351 261 419 045 English Contact: +351 919 416 649 Kiro Kart처domo - Bombarral Established in March 2000, Kiro Karting and has gradually established itself as one of the best in Portugal. Set within 8 hectares, KIRO
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WISH YOU WERE HERE
Out & About With Kids offers its users a lane with a maximum of 1,225 meters long and eight to ten wide, and the possibility of more than 60 different variants. Other facilities include kids track, bouncy castle, spa and snack bar. Quinta do Falcão Apartado 28, 2544-909 Bombarral Tel: + 351 262 609 330
is available to rent so you can practice or improve in the calm waters of the lagoon with qualified professionals on hand for support. A snack bar is available to re fuel you before trying the next activity. Marginal da Lagoa, Foz do Arehlo Tel: +351 262 978 592
Escola de Vela da Lagoa - Óbidos Lagoon Foz do Arelho With a world of water sports there can be nowhere better than on the shores of Óbidos. Try your hand at windsurfing, kite surfing, catamaran sailing, optimist sailing, canoeing, wakeboarding and water skiing. All equipment
Baleal Surf Camp - Peniche A family run business, Baleal was the first surf camp to be established in Portugal back in 1993. The Surf Centre & Surf School has a reserved area for classes, lifeguards, a restaurant and refreshments service, toilets, showers, and a Wi-Fi system. Also available are surfboard and wetsuit rental. Committed to care of the environment, the school involves guests and visitors in raising awareness. For 15 years, the beach bar, named Bruno, after the camp’s founder, comes alive boasting mythical evenings! Avenida do Mar 162, 2520-101 Ferrel Tel: +351 962 336 295 discover 25
Did you know...? Portugal has the oldest borders in the world, established in 1249. Portuguese is the sixth most spoken language in the world (after Chinese, Hindi, Spanish, English and Bengali), with around 200 million official speakers in eight countries. Portugal and England signed the Treaty of Windsor in 1386, the oldest formal alliance between two countries in the world. The custom of drinking tea was introduced to the British court by a Portuguese princess, Catarina de Braganรงa, who married King Charles II in 1662. She brought in her dowry a chest full of Chinese tea leaves (worth a fortune at that time), as well as the city of Bombay, the starting point of the British settlement in India. The borough of Queens in New York was named in 1664 in honor of Catarina de Braganรงa of Portugal.
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words by Deborah Brown
On the odd chance that you are faced with a rainy day here a few options for you to ensure sanity is restored! Bowling - Caldas da Rainha Bowling Caldas is not just a bowling alley with ten lanes, but is also an amusement centre with pool tables, video games and a restaurant and a bar selling cocktails! Live entertainment is often held at weekends and sometimes during the week. Avenue Vasco da Gama No. 77, 2500-282 Caldas da Rainha Tel: +351 262 824 348 Kids Park - Caldas da Rainha This indoor park has a complete leisure programme for kids 3-12 years. Ball pool, obstacle course, bouncy castle, soft mini football pitch, Kids Park is a space where children can play and meet other children all supervised by staff. For older kids, there are mini discos, karaoke and themed parties. A cafe above the play areas means parents can
WISH YOU WERE HERE
Rainy Days & Kids watch the children and take a coffee. Rua António Oliveira Nº40, Pav. M Zona Industrial, Caldas da Rainha. Tel: +351 966 962 693 Norpark Water Park - Nazaré With 30,000 square metres, 8,000 of which are grass, Norpark offers a wide range of entertainment: water slides, giant jacuzzi, lap pool, hydro pool and a children's pool surrounded by a space for teaching and favourite games, such as the caterpillar tunnel, all supervised by security and life guards. A restaurant/snack bar offers everything from burgers to prato do dia plus the usual summer kid’s goodies - ice cream and more ice cream! Water aerobics, gym, football and handball are offered as well as a spa, all with qualified staff. Praia do Norte-Sitio da Nazaré, Nazaré Tel: +351 262 582 262 SportÁgua Water Park - Peniche Take a dive down the Kamikaze tube, a high speed descent to a warm bathing pool, or the
multi-track chute before moving on to the toboggan slide all converging into one spacious pool. A poolside bar, cream kiosk as well as a larger restaurant and snack bar are all there to feed you. A 35m x 12m leisure pool is available to take a dip or join in with one of the organised classes or activities on offer there throughout the day. Younger guests are well catered for with a multilevel children´s pool all with lifeguards and a qualified nurse in attendance in case of (rare) accidents. There are a range of snack facilities throughout the enclosure including If you have any energy left after your day at Sportagua at Peniche it is well worth taking the time to explore the village and its pretty harbour. And what better way to finish off than with a meal at one of its excellent seafood restaurants. Av. Monsenhor Manuel Bastos, 2520-206 Peniche Tel: +351 262 789 125 discover 27
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ALCOBAÇA
WISH YOU WERE HERE words by Terence Austin photography by Nigel Harper
Alcobaça or the Aquitaine s an artist I am enticed by water and reflections. They offer many routes of visual expression. Therefore, it’s natural that I find appealing places with water interwoven in their identity. One naturally thinks of London´s stately Thames, the canals of Venice and the sweeping romantic Parisian Seine.
A
Although I love Portugal dearly, I wish it had more rivers. In the seductively long, hot Portuguese summers, in an often parched and arid, ochre and umber tinted land I long for the sound of flowing water and the breath of a cool breeze to kiss the skin and temper the excesses of the sun. This is why I adore Alcobaça. It has water in its veins in the form of two ribbons which form the rivers Alcoa and the Baça. I offer no prizes for guessing how Alcobaça came by its name, only to mention that for centuries these lifelines have offered rest, recuperation and revitalisation to those who have stole the time
to stroll and sit upon their banks. Today, there is still the opportunity for artists to meander through this route and ponder pictures and compositions. There is another intriguing parallel the town shares with one of these great cities. Take a jaunt around the town and read the architecture and you will smile. Quite often you could fool yourself you are in France or even Paris. Streams wash and bring allsorts, some time after the great inundation that was Art Nouveau, which flooded through France and the rest of Europe, it settled here between the Gothic, Baroque and early Moorish echoes of old Alcobaça. This is still apparent in the tiny, quaint but elegant streets featuring intricate tiled facades and evocative ironwork which are constant reminders of a French influence. There is also a more agricultural chateau style present here which can be seen in the surprising coral pink Camara Municipal discover 29
Their Voice Their Voice is a group of animal lovers with a common interest in the rescue, rehabilitation and re-homing of horses, ponies and donkeys in the Silver Coast region of Portugal.
www.lua-de-pedra.pt Restaurante Lua de Pedra Bar esplanada Jardim das Ideias Rua 25 de Abril nº27 Centro de Salir do Porto
OUR MISSION • To support and educate horse owners by sharing and providing information on all aspects of horse husbandry and stable management. • To work with local veterinary clinics and authorities to provide a safe haven for maltreated or abandoned equines. • To adopt horses, ponies and donkeys from those experiencing financial difficulties until suitable foster or permanent homes can be found. • To form relationships with local schools and the general community to educate and raise awareness of equine and general animal care. • To raise funds strictly for the purpose of ‘Their Voice’, registered Association no.94995 NIPC 510285201
To make a donation please call on
(00351) 919 171 079 info@theirvoiceportugal.com www.theirvoiceportugal.com www.facebook.com/TheirVoicePortugal Their Voice is non profit making, and solely dependent on donations. Founded 5 June 2012 30
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As Cataplanas de Marisco e de Frango com Marisco. As nossas carnes são provenientes da Argentina, Brasil e Uruguai. Seafood & Chicken with Seafood Cataplanas. Our meats are from Argentina, Brazil and Uruguay.
ALCOBAÇA
WISH YOU WERE HERE
Alcobaça or the Aquitaine building. Are we in Acobaça or the Aquitaine? Another delightful feature of the town is the magnificent Portuguese ceramics on offer. There’s a host of shops facing the square in front of the colossal central sited monastery of Santa Maria. These are crammed to the gunnels with charming ornate typically Portuguese pieces painted in cobalt and ultramarine blues, viridians and emerald greens and the more earthy traditional colours. You are bound to be enthralled by the range, size and scope on offer.
Portuguese town, full of history and authentic features. So visit, explore, sample and paint it all!
Rich, rustic and sumptuous textiles, often exhibiting typical tessellated and lively floral Portuguese designs will also appeal. I advise anyone with a creative personality to pay a few visits to Alcobaça. You have to let it seep in and permit its charm and character to influence you. It’s a thriving regional centre bustling along under its own steam every day. It never needs to chase tourism in a forced manner but is not ambivalent to visitors either. It gives a genuine essence of a truly
Alcobaça by Terence Austin
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tel. 262 838 999
TAKE AWAY & DELIVERY
We are open every day Home Delivery Every Day 12:00 - 14:00 & 19:00 - 23:00 Delivery times 30 - 40 mins Area of delivery limited: City Centre 1.00€ Rest of City [min order 2 pizzas] 2.00€ 32
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12:00 to 23:00 Rua Padre António Emílio, no 16 [behind the church] 2500-238 Caldas da Rainha GPS Lat 39°24’20.39”N Long 9°8’9.40”W
FOOD & DRINK
Salt mines of Rio Maior I
n a valley at the foot of the Candeeiros Mountain, 3km from Rio Maior and 30km from the sea, lies a spring with water seven times saltier than the sea. For centuries the main occupation in the area was extracting rock salt, and today the salt pans of Rio Maior are the only ones to still operate in Portugal. An underground stream passes through an extensive and deep salt mine and feeds a well in the centre of the salt pans, which in turn supplies the 400 ponds. In the past, water was taken, day and night, by two buckets, attached to wooden rods, but today the salt water is taken from the well by a motor-pump which takes it to the “concentrators”. These are eight tanks with a capacity for a million litres through which the water passes and evaporates. The process takes around 6 days, depending on the temperature which means a weekly production of salt. Although salt extraction is thought to date back to prehistoric times, the oldest known document is dated 1177. Around mid July the FESTA DO SAL, an event with a important traditional meaning, brings the
words by Deborah Brown
town to life with re-enactments of the history of salt and general celebration and fun Portuguese style. Visitors to the salt marsh can enjoy a small, typically Portuguese village with streets of stone and wooden houses, with some curiously shaped tanks filled with salt water. With shops selling traditional products a few restaurants and a museum depicting eight centuries of salt extraction, the salt mines are well worth a visit. These salt pans are considered an "Imóvel de Interesse Público / Public Interest site" by the IGESPAR. discover 33
words by Deborah Brown
“M
”
For each mouth, a different soup
PORTUGUESE PROVERB
eal times are an important ritual in the Portuguese culture. Breakfast is a simple affair of bread, cheese or jam washed down with coffee or milk whilst lunch and dinner are usually three filling courses taken leisurely with wine.
Portugal is strongly influenced by its former colonies with spices such as piri piri widely used or served with food along with black pepper, cinnamon, vanilla and saffron. Olive oil, garlic, coriander and parsley serve as a base for Portuguese cuisine both for cooking and flavouring meals. Soup usually starts both lunch and dinner, a popular soup being caldo verde; potato, shredded kale, and chunks of chouriço sausage. Meat or fish follows with cheese (often goat or sheep) and/or a sweet dish to follow. At any time of the day or night you may see people taking a coffee with something deliciously sweet to accompany it. A popular pastry is the pastel de nata, a small custard tart sprinkled with cinnamon 34
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FOOD & DRINK
The Best Of Portuguese Food Listed below are some of the dishes you might find on a menu in a restaurant. Bacalhau: In any supermarket or market you will see a bewildering array of bacalhau, dried, and salted cod fish. Loved by the Portuguese, and maybe an acquired taste for others, restaurant menus are loaded with dishes using this fish – maybe because there are apparently 365 ways to cook it. The most popular is Bacalhau com Natas, cod with cream onions, potatoes and layers of fish. Different in every restaurant and Portuguese home, no trip to Portugal is complete without trying this at least once. Bacalhau à Brás uses shredded fish fried potatoes onions and eggs all mixed together. Grilled sardines: Eat hot or cold, with beer or local wine, listen to the sea and watch the people pass by. Percebes: Goose barnacles. These strange pre-historic looking fish are something of a delicacy to be found in seafood restaurants
at many coastal towns. Leitão: Baby suckling pig, different in each region, this is considered a speciality in Portugal. Porco Preto: Black pig with its dark colour and rich flavour it a real treat. Try “secreto porco preto” marbled with fat to make it succulent and delicious Cozido Portuguesa: Portuguese Stew, with almost every kind of meat available and lots of vegetables, usually enough for a family of four for a week! Bife: A slice of fried beef or pork served in a wine-based sauce with fried potatoes, rice, or salad. A fried egg can be added giving it a new name, “bife com um ovo a cavalo”, steak with an egg on horseback! Feijoada: A rich starchy bean stew, is just one of many dishes using beans.
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FOOD & DRINK
Local People words by Jennifer Moseley
Maratona Restaurant Maratona is a gastronomic oasis tucked away in a shady corner in the centre of Caldas da Rainha. The first thing you will notice about both the restaurant and the adjacent cafe is it’s decor: it’s sleek, casual-chic, and very inviting. Trust me, this place takes the business of food in this region to a whole different level. Across the board there is a focus on freshness and seasonality. The atmosphere is food focused. The presentation of food is outstanding, and the professional Portuguese/English speaking staff actually seem to enjoy being part of the Maratona family. The entertaining menu has a global feel to it with serious homage paid to vegetarians, but there is a larger list of meat and fish based dishes as well. “Bob Hates Meat” is a chickpea/soy burger on a brioche bun, with mayo, mango chutney, fried onions and chips priced at €8.20. My favourite dish by far, is iTuna seared perfectly and served rare, (which it should be), accompanied by grilled vegetables and a spicy soy based sauce at €10.80. They do 6 or 7 risottos well: “Soube a Pato” is a duck risotto with a confit of dried fruits and toasted almonds, €10.50; and they do a take on traditional Portuguese fare with a Cod Risotto with corn bread and regional greens which is also €10.50. Overall my dining experience made very little impact on my wallet, and I look forward to eating there again and again and again.
Praça 25 de Abril, 15, Caldas da Rainha Tel. 262 841 463 Email. info@maratona.tv www.maratona.tv 36
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words by Deborah Brown
If you really want to get to the heart of a culture, there is no other way to do this than visit a local market. Most of the towns and cities throughout the Silver Coast have daily markets or quayside stalls selling fresh produce such as meat, fish, vegetables and bread. Caldas da Rainha: A daily market is held every morning until 1pm in the Praça da Fruta, selling fruit, vegetables, nuts, cheese, some basket wear, flowers and ceramics. The covered fish market near the Cultural Centre sells the fish freshly caught by the fisherman of Nazaré and Peniche. Nazaré: A morning market is held in Avenida Vieira Guimarães every day except Mondays Peniche: The market here is a great place to buy fish straight off the boats and is held from 7am to 2pm every day except Mondays. Figueira da Foz: Daily São Martinho do Porto: Daily There are also a number of weekly/monthly markets that offer the opportunity to barter, be warned, the market traders take no prisoners if you are obviously not local!
FOOD & DRINK
Shop ’Til You Drop Two of the biggest markets are held at Pataias and Santana. Pataias is a huge sprawling Sunday morning market where you can find almost anything from bread, fruit and vegetables to handbags, CDs and clothing. Live animals, dogs, cats, rabbits are also sold amongst fruit trees and shrubs. As you enter the market, the smell of roasting chicken knocks you off your feet as hungry shoppers gather to fill up on chicken, bifanas bread and wine...delicious! Location: Take the A8 from Nazaré to Marinha Grande. Turn left at the mini roundabout marked São Pedro do Moel market is normally signposted from there. Santana is another huge Sunday market selling almost everything. A larger selection of animals: chickens, ducks, dogs, cats, and the occasional peacock! This is a more local market starting around 5am and finishing 2pm. Popular with Portuguese farmers, you can buy everything from a bale of straw to farm machinery. Location: On the road to Santarém. Take the IC2 towards Leiria and
then the Benedita turn-off. The market is signposted from there. Caldas da Rainha has a smaller version of these markets on a Monday morning on the road past the hospital and there is an antiques fair in the city park on the second Sunday of every month. Alcobaça has a local flea market also on a Monday morning and an antiques fair beside the monastery on the third Saturday of each month. Nazaré hosts a flea market on a Friday mornings with the exception of high season when the car park is used for visiting tourists. There are however, usually a few stalls lining the roads by the library on a daily basis. Óbidos: Every Saturday from 9am to 3pm an organic produce market is held at the main entrance to the town, Porta da Vila. On the first Sunday of the month an antiques market is held in the car park outside the castle walls. Peniche holds a big monthly market behind the Intermarche supermarket on the last Thursday every month except during August.
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COMPANHIA AGRICOLA DO SANGUINHAL Lda, Quinta das Cerejeiras, Apartado no 5, 2544-909 Bombarral Tel: (+351) 262 609 190 Fax: (+351) 262 609 191 Tlm: 914 493 231 - Ana Pereira da Fonseca Reis
www.vinhos-sanguinhal.pt
info@vinhos-sanguinhal.pt
GPS 39° 15’ 16.51” N • 9° 8’ 38.94” W
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FOOD & DRINK
Local People cantina criativa 1/2
Cantina Criativa
specialises in modern Portuguese and mediterranean cuisine
No1 recommended on TripAdvisor
www.cantinacriativa.pt
Jennifer Moseley Jennifer Moseley a premier caterer/event planner, came to Portugal from Toronto ten years ago in search of a new adventure. She now runs a private full-service catering business on the Silver Coast. Hot Knives Fine Catering +351 919 636 107 What is your cooking style? I don't really have a style, but I do require fresh, quality, seasonable ingredients to work with. Creating environments where people gather for the communion of good food is always my goal. I am also interested in locally grown, organic food, where the carbon footprint is kept to a minimum, which for me is an important step to supporting the local economy. What do you like generally about the Portuguese people? I love the simplistic attitude towards life and family; the sharing of seasonal harvested foods and the unique, loving inclusion of children and seniors to any and all occasions.
Convento S. Miguel das Gaeiras 2510-718 Ă&#x201C;bidos T. 939 326 568 / 262 955 703
www.cantinacriativa.pt
What is your favourite thing to do here? I live on the Ă&#x201C;bidos lagoon. What's not to love besides sand between my toes, world class sunsets, my organic garden and the many interesting people I meet from all over the world. My experiences with the people of Portugal, especially small, village life has given me enough life experience for a book! All of this fuels my creative energy, whether related to food, gardening, my painting and crafts or my organic soapmaking. What is your favourite food here? Anything fresh from the sea.
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SERVIÇO
CLÍNICO
AMBULATÓRIO
PARA ANIMAIS
918 097 865 . 964 689 118 AMBULATORY VETERINARY SERVICE Emergencies and out of hours
margaridasantoscorreia@gmail.com
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EXTRA
Local People
Ben Van Reede When did you come to Portugal and why? I came to Portugal 10 years ago, mainly for the space and sun. Having sold everything back home in Holland, I started off in a caravan living from my pension. I lived in a small village where, despite my knowledge of English, French,
German
and
obviously
Dutch,
everyone only spoke Portuguese. I soon learnt that Portugal is a ‘family of families’, and it is easy, at first, to feel lonely and isolated. I picked up my Portuguese in cafes and bars and started to talk to the locals. Through luck and optimism, I managed to make real friends: the test is to be invited into a Portuguese
Terra (small earth), working in harmony with nature and promoting environmental education for all ages in a creative and fun way. Situated 10km from Alcobaça, the farm offers an opportunity to learn about nature, growing biological vegetables and fruit, and showing respect to animals. Pequena Terra also hosts birthday parties, with a chance to build your own scarecrow and donkey rides! A child minding service is also available, for a small fee, giving a chance for mum and dad to take a break and leave the children in very capable, fully registered, hands. Contact Ben or Paula
for more information on +351 914 209 429.
home!
What do you like best and would you
After a couple of years I got involved with a
recommend to visitors to Portugal?
Portuguese woman, Paula, who five years later I married. Over the years we have undertaken many projects. Our home has inadvertently become a shelter for many unwanted dogs, cats and even donkeys, maybe because Paula is on the way to being a qualified veterinary nurse and is well known throughout the area for her kind support when things go wrong with the neighbours animals. We are also happy to be involved in Pequena
Easy, the ‘life outside’, with its great climate, coffees and lunches and drinks all outside or in the shade of a vine. What is your favourite thing to do here? Reading and taking advantage of the great music scene in Lisbon. What is your favourite Portuguese food? Borrego (lamb) and bacalhau (dried cod fish) Can you give one word to describe Portugal? Chaotic!!! discover 41
EXTRA
Eu não falo português.
Basic Portuguese Phrases
I don't speak Portuguese.
Bom dia. Good morning.
Fala inglês? Do you speak English?
Boa tarde. Good afternoon.
Eu sou de... (Londres) I am from... (London)
Boa noite. Good evening.
Desculpe / Com licença. Excuse me.
Obrigado/obrigada. Thank you.
Muito obrigado/a. Thank you very much.
[oobree-gado] or [oobree-gadah]
De nada. You are welcome/No problem.
Men say "obrigado" and women
Desculpe. Sorry.
say "obrigada".
Como se chama? What's your name?
Se faz favor. Please.
Até logo. See you later.
Information National Holidays
on Sundays. Make enquiries locally if required.
Portugal recently, with a view to boost economic activity, has cut four of its 14 public holidays, and suspended, after negotiating with the Vatican, two religious festivals and two other public holidays for five years from 2013.
Friday 29th March - Good Friday
Tuesday 1st January - New Year's Day Tuesday 12th February - Carnaval Shrove Tuesday / Mardi Gras This is an unofficial holiday featuring many local festivals and celebrations. It is usually observed in public institutions, banks, post offices, schools etc. Trains operate to Sunday timetables. Buses in some areas operate with normal weekday (non-school day) timetables but in other areas with timetables the same as
Sunday 31st March - Easter Sunday Easter Monday is not a holiday here. Thursday 25th April - Freedom Day Wednesday 1st May - Labour Day Monday 10th June - Portugal Day Monday 24th June - São João this unofficial holiday is observed widely in the north of the country, on the railways etc but not everywhere in the south. Thursday 15th August - Assumption Tuesday 20th August - Albufeira Municipal holiday. Some shops and businesses close for the day at lunchtime. Sunday 8th December - Immaculate Conception Wednesday 25th December - Christmas Day. December 26th is not a holiday here. Wednesday 1st January 2014 -New Year's Day.
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Pedro Garcia’s Centre for Integrated Therapies
Peniche
262 782 687speaks English Baleal
967 004 862 speaks German, English Óbidos
262 959 976
speaks Spanish, French, Italian
Óbidos
919 343 455
speaks French,English, Spanish
Caldas da Rainha
262 831 098
speaks English
Nazaré . São Martinho do Porto
919 250 564 speaks English
Foz do Arelho . Caldas da Rainha São Martinho do Porto
919 304 824
speaks English, French
912 017 083
speaks Spanish, French, Italian
São Martinho do Porto Alcobaça
934 821 875 speaks English Nazaré
919 250 564
speaks English
244 589 333
speaks little English
968 098 883
speaks French
244 502 515
speaks English
Pataias Pataias
São Pedro de Moel Pedra do Ouro
244 502 100 speaks English
Licensed Physical Therapist and Osteopath • Physiotherapy • Osteopathy
• Sports massage and relaxation Specialist in musculoskeletal disorders particularly spinal, visceral and cranial disorders. Holistic assessment of physical and psycho-emotional energies
Specialist of deep relaxation and psycho-emotional release. • Neurostructural Integration Technique • Niromathe Method • Pranic Healing
Pedro Garcia
Bairro da Quinta do Almeida, rua Engenheiro Manuel Natividade, lote 2, loja 44, 2460-015 Alcobaça
Tel: 919 627 383
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PROPERTY BOOK
If you enjoyed your Silver Coast holiday this year and want to return, please visit
www.holiday-rental-portugal.com for an even better holiday next year. I have villas, townhouses and apartments at Praia d'el Rey that will suit your budget and all are in excellent condition.
My friendly and helpful team are available 7 days a week and are here to make sure you have a great time. Please call Marianne Fletcher-Smith on 00351 963 915 434 or email me marianne@holiday-rental-portugal.com to book your 2014 holiday.
PROPERTY MANAGEMENT
AND MAINTENANCE SERVICES
A professional, dedicated & personal service For other services, check our website
Contact us today for a free, no obligation quotation
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info@jinahtrans.com www.jinahtrans.com +351 916 791 307
PROPERTY BOOK
We have compiled a list of trusted accommodation providers on the Silver Coast. Self-catering villas and apartments Silver Coast Rentals
www.imoferias.com
They provide one of the largest selection of holiday properties on the Silver Coast including São Martinho do Porto, Nazaré, Foz do Arelho and Pedra do Ouro.
Peniche, Bom Sucesso
www.holiday-rental-portugal.com
Specialises in stunning and luxury villas in Praia D’El Rey Golf Resort.
Portugal Holiday Destinations
www.portugalholidaydestinations.com
Villas and apartments in and around Foz do Arelho and Óbidos Lagoon.
Baleal Surf Camp
Beach apartments on Baleal surf beach.
Silvercoast Apartments
A cosy complex of 3 apartments with a shared pool near Peniche.
Hotels ***** Marriott Hotel, Praia D’El Rey **** Sana Silvercoast Hotel, Caldas da Rainha *** Hotel Cristal, Caldas da Rainha **** Hotel Real de Óbidos *** Hotel Louro, Óbidos *** Miramar Hotel, Nazaré *** Albergaria Pedra D’Ouro
www.balealsurfcamp.com
www.silvercoast-apartments.com
www.praia-del-rey.com/en/marriott-hotel.html www.silvercoast.sanahotels.com www.hotelcristalcaldas.com www.hotelrealdobidos.com/en/hotel www.hotelouro.com www.miramarnazarehotels.com www.albergariapedradouro.pt
SMP Property Management Full housekeeping and cleaning service for São Martinho do Porto only
Honest, Trustworthy and Reliable
Condominium Management
Our Job is to Protect your Investment Top Quality Service
São Martinho do Porto
Contact us today for a free no obligation quotation. +351 916 295 518 email info@smppropertyservices.com
www.smppropertyservices.com
+351 966 999 705
www.portscot.com
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PROPERTY BOOK • Financial Planning
• Currency Transfers
• Insurances, including Home, Car, Medical and Travel
• Mortgages • Tax Issues
A ONE STOP SHOP FOR ALL YOUR FINANCIAL NEEDS
Rua 1 de Maio No30, Tornada, 2500-315 Caldas da Rainha, Portugal Tel: +351 262 843 370 Email: info@silvercoastfinancialconsultancy.com Website: www.silvercoastfinancialconsultancy.com
dspproperties.com
www.
email: info@dspproperties.com Rua 1 de Maio, 26, 2500-315 Tornada, Caldas da Rainha
+351 262 103 916 Land line
n n n n AMI no 9551 46
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+351 934 347 525 Mobile & out-of-office number
Only a 2.5% sellers fee for all properties that we have exclusivity on 4% for all others
English and Portuguese owned company
A wide range of properties covering the Silver Coast
PROPERTY BOOK
www.immoportugal.com
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Book with confidence . Reserva com confiança
Óbidos
São Martinho do Porto
Lisbon - Chiado
Óbidos Lagoon
Nazaré
São Martinho do Porto
A L G AR V E . SILVER C OA ST . MA DEIR A . A ZO RE S
tel: 912 999 958 Please email us at
info@imoferias.com
or visit our websites at
imoferias.com rent-portugal.com