A Sartorial Primer

Sartorial

A SARTORIAL PRIMER

Liam Jefferies takes a back-to-basics approach to the rules of men’s dress, just in case you haven’t been paying attention for the last 99 issues

Chances are, if you are reading this 100th

edition, you have acquired a certain cognisance on the unspoken rules of dress. However, in these turbulent times of menswear, with pre-ripped denim and anklesocks abundant, one feels the need to reaffirm some of the rules governing the land of sartoria.

DRESS FOR THE WEATHER, THEN THE OCCASION If you haven’t come to a decision after ticking both these boxes, you own too many clothes. A simple wardrobe well executed will always be preferable to being a clotheshorse, and nothing says menswear neophyte like French cuffs worn with casual trousers.

WEAR A SUIT, DON’T LET A SUIT WEAR YOU The correct way to button up a suit coat is referred to as the ‘Sometimes, Always, Never’ rule. That

is, given there is a three-button stance, the top button is fastened should the weather demand, the middle is a must, while the bottom button is strictly cosmetic and should only be fastened if absolutely necessary (see Jean-Paul Belmondo hiding his gun in À Bout de Souffle). The reason for this most fastidious of fastenings stems from the rotund Edward VII, who often couldn’t fasten the bottom button of his waistcoat. His court followed suit and it soon became de rigueur and extended to coats. In modern times, the unfastened lower button denotes that the jacket is cut correctly and that the button itself has been rendered superfluous.

Suit sleeves should show a bit of shirt; if the cuff skirts the first knuckle of your thumb, they are too long. Similarly, if your cufflinks are permanently on show, then you have already played your sartorial hand, and have nothing ‘up the sleeve’ so to speak. Men’s accessories should lift an outfit, not dictate them. A collar pin, a tie

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clip or expertly folded square are excellent ways to add a certain elegance to an outfit, but worn all at once looks too pre-determined and fussy. A general rule is one accessory per outfit, and most often this is your watch. Always wear a watch. Reading the time from your field telephone merely displays your dependence on it. The same goes with a pen; invest in a good quality fountain pen and carry it everywhere, to save you from having to use a publicly shared biro.

DON’T FEAR A POCKET SQUARE A pocket square is not a handkerchief, so always buy silk and don’t blow your nose on it. A hankie should sit within your inside breast pocket and be reserved for lending to someone who needs it. When it comes to complementing your neckwear, match a colour or two, and have fun mixing patterns, but never go too matchy-matchy; the last thing you want is to give the impression you bought both tie and square in a gift set.

SHIRTS SHOULD HAVE LONG SLEEVES With the exception of private investigator Thomas Magnum, short sleeves, like short trousers, are best left to children’s Sunday dress. In clement weather, roll the sleeves up, but iron them rolled-up before you put on the shirt.

WEAR TROUSERS THAT FIT As a general rule, the trouser cuff should fall so that the back of your trouser kisses the top of your heel; the minimal bunching at the bottom of the leg is known as the break. Too short, and you are at risk of showing too much skin when seated, too long, and your legs resemble a melting candle. Trousers should fit, and not just in the waist. Oxford bags are preferable to a trouser too tight around the thigh, but not as wide as the ones pictured. If needed, opt for pleats to allow necessary room for manoevre – if you cannot cock your leg over a bicycle, your trousers are too tight. When you take a seat, lift and pinch the trouser fabric above the knee; this will save the knees of your trousers from stretching. Cuffs (not turn-ups) shouldn’t exceed two inches and should correspond to your lapel width.

WEAR A TIE, AND WEAR IT WELL The adage goes ‘Always wear a tie when you are asking for money’, and this is because you wish to be seen as a responsible, attentive individual with a repertoire of several different knots. Put any fears of being overdressed out of your mind, for you’ll simply look like you have somewhere better to be afterwards. Tie width should match the width of one’s lapels, and when tied, the blade should sit so it half conceals the button of your trousers. Master the four-in-hand knot, followed by the half and full Windsor, as the collar demands – the wider the cutaway, the thicker the knot.

The basics of ties covered, here is an aspect of menswear in which a degree of fun can be had. Consider the Italian art of sprezzatura, the sense of studied carelessness; imperfect tying on a bow tie is a necessity, but on a regular tie, playing with the length can add an element of ‘I just threw this on’-ness, particularly when combined with the continental style of twisting a four-in-hand knot, thus exposing the rear blade, and being particularly effective in striped or repp ties. Better to err on the side of caution, however: leave a tie too short and you look like you work for NASA (see short sleeves); however, when employed with a studied perfection and a nod to those in the know, a longer tie can be slimming. Don’t go too long though, lest you resemble a certain tangerine-tinged head of state.

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