Sartorial
A SARTORIAL PRIMER Liam Jefferies takes a back-to-basics approach to the rules of men’s dress, just in case you haven’t been paying attention for the last 99 issues
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hances are, if you are reading this 100th edition, you have acquired a certain cognisance on the unspoken rules of dress. However, in these turbulent times of menswear, with pre-ripped denim and anklesocks abundant, one feels the need to reaffirm some of the rules governing the land of sartoria.
is, given there is a three-button stance, the top button is fastened should the weather demand, the middle is a must, while the bottom button is strictly cosmetic and should only be fastened if absolutely necessary (see Jean-Paul Belmondo hiding his gun in À Bout de Souffle). The reason for this most fastidious of fastenings stems from the rotund Edward VII, who often couldn’t fasten the bottom button of his waistcoat. His court followed suit and it soon became de rigueur and extended to coats. In modern times, the unfastened lower button denotes that the jacket is cut correctly and that the button itself has been rendered superfluous. Suit sleeves should show a bit of shirt; if the cuff skirts the first knuckle of your thumb, they are too long. Similarly, if your cufflinks are permanently on show, then you have already played your sartorial hand, and have nothing ‘up the sleeve’ so to speak. Men’s accessories should lift an outfit, not dictate them. A collar pin, a tie
DRESS FOR THE WEATHER, THEN THE OCCASION If you haven’t come to a decision after ticking both these boxes, you own too many clothes. A simple wardrobe well executed will always be preferable to being a clotheshorse, and nothing says menswear neophyte like French cuffs worn with casual trousers. WEAR A SUIT, DON’T LET A SUIT WEAR YOU The correct way to button up a suit coat is referred to as the ‘Sometimes, Always, Never’ rule. That
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